The reason for the long group name is that SAXVO was taken so I added
Jim's call to make it unique..
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "WA0ITP" <wa0itp@mchsi.com>
To: <savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2012 8:10 PM
Subject: [savxok8iqy] wa0itp test

| test of new group email
| -------------------------------------------------------------------
| Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
| I love this radio stuff !
| 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
| wa0itp@wa0itp.com
| www.wa0itp.com
| www.4sqrp.com
| www.qrpspots.com
|
|
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

Yes, it's already in the manual.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "sidlee93" <sid@leben.com>
To: <savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2012 4:02 PM
Subject: [savxok8iqy] Use with NS40

| Will there be info on how to integrate the VXO with an assembled
NS-40 ?
| Thanks
| Sid
| KC2EE
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

With the Binocular transformers essentially just remember that "1 turn" is going through one side and coming back through the other. As far as the wire goes yeah what I do is scrape a bunch of the enamel off and then tin it with solder by dunking it in a melting blob until it's coated.

I didn't do it with the transformer in the SAVXO but usually when I work with binoc cores I like to put just a little tape on the inside edge so when making the turns the wire doesn't get scraped and make contact or anything. Started doing that after spending about 6 hours trying to figure out what was wrong with a build once!

I got the SAVXO built today and briefly tried testing it with the 4states trio with no luck. Will play some more tomorrow hopefully and see if I can get it set up right.

73,
Dave KD2AKC

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" wrote:
>
> Received the kit yesterday; instructions have been previewed, and all components are present and accounted for...good job!
>
> Question:
> Winding the binocular transformer: I guess I was expecting a little more guidance here, although I think I can see what's needed in the small photo. Four turns with leads exiting on one side, then five turns with leads exiting on the other side, correct? Inside the core, the two windings will end up on top of one another?
>
> Also, since the #30 must be enameled wire, do the leads need to be prepared for soldering? Any tips?
>
> --jim KJ3P
>

Dave et all,

Check out Jim's instructions for connecting the SAVXO to the NS-40. A
link is on both the SAVXO and the NS-40 web pages.
http://www.wa0itp.com/savxo.html
http://www.wa0itp.com/ns40.html

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "kd2akc" <contact@daveryan.name>
To: <savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2012 9:34 PM
Subject: [savxok8iqy] Re: XFMR WInding Question

| With the Binocular transformers essentially just remember that "1
turn" is going through one side and coming back through the other. As
far as the wire goes yeah what I do is scrape a bunch of the enamel
off and then tin it with solder by dunking it in a melting blob until
it's coated.
|
| I didn't do it with the transformer in the SAVXO but usually when I
work with binoc cores I like to put just a little tape on the inside
edge so when making the turns the wire doesn't get scraped and make
contact or anything. Started doing that after spending about 6 hours
trying to figure out what was wrong with a build once!
|
| I got the SAVXO built today and briefly tried testing it with the
4states trio with no luck. Will play some more tomorrow hopefully and
see if I can get it set up right.
|
| 73,
| Dave KD2AKC
|
|
|
| --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" wrote:
| >
| > Received the kit yesterday; instructions have been previewed, and
all components are present and accounted for...good job!
| >
| > Question:
| > Winding the binocular transformer: I guess I was expecting a
little more guidance here, although I think I can see what's needed in
the small photo. Four turns with leads exiting on one side, then five
turns with leads exiting on the other side, correct? Inside the core,
the two windings will end up on top of one another?
| >
| > Also, since the #30 must be enameled wire, do the leads need to be
prepared for soldering? Any tips?
| >
| > --jim KJ3P
| >
|
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

Thanks Dave!
I really appreciate the clarification/confirmation, as well as the tip about tiny pieces of tape at the "corners". To the bench!!

--jim KJ3P

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, "kd2akc" wrote:
>
> With the Binocular transformers essentially just remember that "1 turn" is going through one side and coming back through the other. As far as the wire goes yeah what I do is scrape a bunch of the enamel off and then tin it with solder by dunking it in a melting blob until it's coated.
>
> I didn't do it with the transformer in the SAVXO but usually when I work with binoc cores I like to put just a little tape on the inside edge so when making the turns the wire doesn't get scraped and make contact or anything. Started doing that after spending about 6 hours trying to figure out what was wrong with a build once!
>
> I got the SAVXO built today and briefly tried testing it with the 4states trio with no luck. Will play some more tomorrow hopefully and see if I can get it set up right.
>
> 73,
> Dave KD2AKC
>
>
>
> --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" wrote:
> >
> > Received the kit yesterday; instructions have been previewed, and all components are present and accounted for...good job!
> >
> > Question:
> > Winding the binocular transformer: I guess I was expecting a little more guidance here, although I think I can see what's needed in the small photo. Four turns with leads exiting on one side, then five turns with leads exiting on the other side, correct? Inside the core, the two windings will end up on top of one another?
> >
> > Also, since the #30 must be enameled wire, do the leads need to be prepared for soldering? Any tips?
> >
> > --jim KJ3P
> >
>

Jim has created a tutorial for winding the binoclular core of T1. It
will answer your questions about winding binocular cores. It's listed
in the documentation section. http://www.wa0itp.com/savxo.html

A new assembly manual is now on the web page. This tutorial and also
the info on connecting the SAVXO to the NS-40 are now included in the
manual. http://www.wa0itp.com/savxoassemblymanualv1.0b-02262012.pdf

Enjoy the build and the SAVXO.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

Thanks for the T1 tutorial... you guys are the greatest.

--jim, KJ3P

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, "WA0ITP" wrote:
>
> Jim has created a tutorial for winding the binoclular core of T1. It
> will answer your questions about winding binocular cores. It's listed
> in the documentation section. http://www.wa0itp.com/savxo.html
>
> A new assembly manual is now on the web page. This tutorial and also
> the info on connecting the SAVXO to the NS-40 are now included in the
> manual. http://www.wa0itp.com/savxoassemblymanualv1.0b-02262012.pdf
>
> Enjoy the build and the SAVXO.
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> wa0itp@...
> www.wa0itp.com
> www.4sqrp.com
> www.qrpspots.com
>

So far so good. VXO reads 26v pp on scope and about 7.042 with pot fully clockwise. Hard to be more precise with my scope.

Now have to figure an elegant way of mating it with the NS40 in the TenTec case.. Using this vxo does bring up an issue that I never thought of. I have never spotted the xtal freq. on the SS40 using the "Magic Box" spotting switch. Prior I keyed up the NS30 & read the freq out on my K3. Then xmt on the k3 & tuned the SS40 for best sig & marked the spot!!!

I will try to use the spot function. At least I think there was one in the interface. Will look at it later..

Thanks to all for the support.

Sid

KC2EE

Yeah i think it was the j10 jumper? It actually works pretty good. I saw a build where they used a pot for the resistance to be leaked instead of fixed which I think is a nice add on. I wish you could disable to sidetone on the magicbox though with a jumper.

Dave

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Sid Leben wrote:
>
> So far so good. VXO reads 26v pp on scope and about 7.042 with pot fully clockwise. Hard to be more precise with my scope.
>
> Now have to figure an elegant way of mating it with the NS40 in the TenTec case.. Using this vxo does bring up an issue that I never thought of. I have never spotted the xtal freq. on the SS40 using the "Magic Box" spotting switch. Prior I keyed up the NS30 & read the freq out on my K3. Then xmt on the k3 & tuned the SS40 for best sig & marked the spot!!!
>
> I will try to use the spot function. At least I think there was one in the interface. Will look at it later..
>
> Thanks to all for the support.
>
> Sid
> KC2EE
>

On 3/1/2012 7:31 AM, Chuck Carpenter wrote:

> -------- 4 State QRP List :: The Friendly One --------
>
> ****** OzarkCon Registration Now Open *******
> ***** http://www.ozarkcon.com/index.php *****
>
>
>
> Did some additional testing and measuring using the 7122 nominal
> crystals supplied.
>
> Used my FT-847 zero beating with the 25 Hz filter for approximate
> frequency (checks good with WWV on 5 and 10 MHz)
>
> Power source is regulated and adjustable -- For testing set the supply
> voltage to 12.5
>
> RF voltage is measured with a calibrated RF probe, fairly accurate
>
> So, with my particular batch of parts and tools and their associated
> tolerances...
>
> Frequency Ranges:
>
> 18 uH series choke supplied
> ~7111 to 7222 kHz

Did you mean 7122 KHz for the upper frequency above? That would make
the delta about 11 KHz, in line with what I would expect.

>
> 15 uH
> ~7119 to 7124 kHz
>
> 10 uH
> ~7122 to 7124 kHz
>
> Power output set to ~250 mW, about mid way on trim pot. Measured ~5
> Vrms across 100 ohm load, Po = Vrms^2 / Rload
> With the trim pot set at max the signal apparently over drove Q3. The
> result was a near short on the power supply and a temporary loss of
> voltage.
>
> At the ~250 mW level, the 100 ohm load got warm to the touch, about
> the same as the Q3 heat sink. Could only hold uncalibrated fingers on
> for a few seconds...8^)

The SAVXO was designed to supply a lot of RF power if necessary.
You've found that out Chuck! :-)

>
> Suggest using a well regulated stable power supply for the SAVXO. The
> frequency changes slightly with supply voltage changes. If also
> connected to the VXO, keying a transmitter from a poorly regulated
> supply could cause a chirp. A battery discharging over time would also
> change the frequency.
>
> Now, to get a few more crystals from ESS and try band changes. Jim
> already did that for 17 meters with one of his early prototypes.
>
> I'll probably try 30 meters first using 10125 kHz crystals and pulling
> them down around the 10116 QRP frequency.

I'm very interested in see the results you get on 30 meters. Thanks
for posting your results.

>
> This is fun stuff...

Good to hear that. Wait until UB1 and UB2 are out. You will by
playing for weeks!

72 and thanks for the update,

Jim, K8IQY

On 3/1/2012 9:50 AM, Chuck Carpenter wrote:

>
>
> While waiting for it to warm up this morning to go do some work
> outside, I hooked up the VXO to a 40 meter Topper amplifier. The amp
> needs around 200 mW drive minimum so I was curious to see what it
> would do.
>
> With 250 mW output, the little gem produced a little over 3 watts into
> a 25 watt dummy load.

Oh, that is cool!

This amp has an RF activated T/R switch so I

> could measure the power straight through power off the amp and then
> with power on the amp. The Topper is designed for use with
> transceivers but can be modified for use with separates.

Isn't the design of that amplifier on your web page Chuck? I seem to
remember seeing it there.

>
> Not as convenient and effective as using Jim's Magic Box though. And,
> the amplifier Jim uses with his 17 meter setup would be more useful as
> it includes a keying switch circuit.

For keying the SAVXO so it isn't running all of the time.

Check that circuit out in Jim's

> piece on the SAVXO web page. The circuit looks like it could be
> modified for 40m by changing collector choke and output filter values.
> Maybe Jim would comment of that possibility.

Exactly what would be needed to put it on another band. Just scale
the values up or down, which ever way you are going.

>
> Took some pictures of the lash-up here on my work-bench/desk.

Where did you post them please?

>
> This is fun stuff...
>
> P.S. The pictures show that I put the VXO on top of a plastic box. I
> found that the frequency changed when I move the VXO up off the top of
> the desk. Probably all the metal objects in the desk drawer underneath.

Thanks for your update Chuck. Very much appreciated by me and I'm
sure others.

72 and thanks,

Jim, K8IQY

Hi Jim,

I'm probably missing something obvious, but what, pray tell, are UB1 and UB2? Thanks for any clarification.

Jerry AA6KI
Tucson

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> On 3/1/2012 7:31 AM, Chuck Carpenter wrote:
> > -------- 4 State QRP List :: The Friendly One --------
> >
> > ****** OzarkCon Registration Now Open *******
> > ***** http://www.ozarkcon.com/index.php *****
> >
> >
> >
> > Did some additional testing and measuring using the 7122 nominal
> > crystals supplied.
> >
> > Used my FT-847 zero beating with the 25 Hz filter for approximate
> > frequency (checks good with WWV on 5 and 10 MHz)
> >
> > Power source is regulated and adjustable -- For testing set the supply
> > voltage to 12.5
> >
> > RF voltage is measured with a calibrated RF probe, fairly accurate
> >
> > So, with my particular batch of parts and tools and their associated
> > tolerances...
> >
> > Frequency Ranges:
> >
> > 18 uH series choke supplied
> > ~7111 to 7222 kHz
>
> Did you mean 7122 KHz for the upper frequency above? That would make
> the delta about 11 KHz, in line with what I would expect.
> >
> > 15 uH
> > ~7119 to 7124 kHz
> >
> > 10 uH
> > ~7122 to 7124 kHz
> >
> > Power output set to ~250 mW, about mid way on trim pot. Measured ~5
> > Vrms across 100 ohm load, Po = Vrms^2 / Rload
> > With the trim pot set at max the signal apparently over drove Q3. The
> > result was a near short on the power supply and a temporary loss of
> > voltage.
> >
> > At the ~250 mW level, the 100 ohm load got warm to the touch, about
> > the same as the Q3 heat sink. Could only hold uncalibrated fingers on
> > for a few seconds...8^)
>
> The SAVXO was designed to supply a lot of RF power if necessary.
> You've found that out Chuck! :-)
> >
> > Suggest using a well regulated stable power supply for the SAVXO. The
> > frequency changes slightly with supply voltage changes. If also
> > connected to the VXO, keying a transmitter from a poorly regulated
> > supply could cause a chirp. A battery discharging over time would also
> > change the frequency.
> >
> > Now, to get a few more crystals from ESS and try band changes. Jim
> > already did that for 17 meters with one of his early prototypes.
> >
> > I'll probably try 30 meters first using 10125 kHz crystals and pulling
> > them down around the 10116 QRP frequency.
>
> I'm very interested in see the results you get on 30 meters. Thanks
> for posting your results.
>
> >
> > This is fun stuff...
>
> Good to hear that. Wait until UB1 and UB2 are out. You will by
> playing for weeks!
>
> 72 and thanks for the update,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

On 3/1/2012 2:40 PM, Jerry AA6KI wrote:

> Hi Jim,

Hi Jerry,

>
> I'm probably missing something obvious, but what, pray tell, are UB1 and UB2?

You read my post and were paying attention! Thank you.....

UB1 and UB2 are "to-be-released" products coming from Four State QRP
when we get the time and resources to do them. UB1 is Utility Board
#1 PCB which has a myriad of circuits on it for doing project bread
boarding. It includes circuitry for a regulated power supply, two
switches, low harmonic output oscillator, ADE-1 mixer, a dual wide
band amplifier, crystal filter, band pass filter, low pass
filter/attenuator, and finally, a bread boarding area. UB2 is Utility
Board #2 which has on it a medium power amplifier, higher power
amplifier, low pass filter, and large bread boarding area. With the
pair of boards, one can build receivers, converters, transmitters, try
out ideas etc., etc. They are designed for experimenters who like to
play with circuits and ideas and do it on a PCB, rather than
Manhattan-style construction. The boards are all designed and ready to
go into production when time and resources permit us to do so. Any
feedback on the desirability of such boards might help push them along
in the timing. Our best effort at a marketing survey if you will! :-)

Thanks for any clarification.

You are welcome Jerry. Pass the word!

72,

Jim, K8IQY

On 2/29/2012 3:53 PM, Bob wrote:

> Just got the 7122 kit 2 days ago...all went together fine and worked perfectly.

That is great to hear Bob.

I got a range of 7113.4 to 7122.

Not too far off the mark. Some are getting a couple of KHz more, but
that sort of depends on the crystals in the unit, I'm guessing.

> I tried some ESS 7114 series res. xtals today and got 7109.8 to 7118.1.
> Seemed a bit more symmetrical about the 7114 freq of the xtal than the
> 7122.....wonder if this is common of all the series res xtals?

Probably. They have exactly the same innards, but the case marked
frequency for a "series" load crystal and one designed to work with
say "18 pF" make them appear to be different relative to the case
marked frequency. With each set you are getting 8+ KHz of VXO tuning
range.

> Great kit...I've got to work this into some kind of transceiver...

I indeed hope that you do. Thanks for the feedback.

> Bob...WA1EDJ...GA....
>

72,

Jim, K8IQY

Hi Jim,

Wow -- these sound like an experimenter's dream! I, for one, am ready to order them now, but I guess my mouse will have to be patient. :)

Thanks very much for the detail. This is exciting news!

Jerry AA6KI
Tucson

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> On 3/1/2012 2:40 PM, Jerry AA6KI wrote:
> > Hi Jim,
>
> Hi Jerry,
>
> >
> > I'm probably missing something obvious, but what, pray tell, are UB1 and UB2?
>
> You read my post and were paying attention! Thank you.....
>
> UB1 and UB2 are "to-be-released" products coming from Four State QRP
> when we get the time and resources to do them. UB1 is Utility Board
> #1 PCB which has a myriad of circuits on it for doing project bread
> boarding. It includes circuitry for a regulated power supply, two
> switches, low harmonic output oscillator, ADE-1 mixer, a dual wide
> band amplifier, crystal filter, band pass filter, low pass
> filter/attenuator, and finally, a bread boarding area. UB2 is Utility
> Board #2 which has on it a medium power amplifier, higher power
> amplifier, low pass filter, and large bread boarding area. With the
> pair of boards, one can build receivers, converters, transmitters, try
> out ideas etc., etc. They are designed for experimenters who like to
> play with circuits and ideas and do it on a PCB, rather than
> Manhattan-style construction. The boards are all designed and ready to
> go into production when time and resources permit us to do so. Any
> feedback on the desirability of such boards might help push them along
> in the timing. Our best effort at a marketing survey if you will! :-)
>
> Thanks for any clarification.
>
> You are welcome Jerry. Pass the word!
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

On 3/1/2012 10:08 PM, Barney wrote:

>
>
> Hi;

Hi Barney,

>
> I noticed in section (5) the instructions say that in the picture
> that the header closest to me is for the negative power lead

No, it says that the (VXP) header pin closest to you is the minus lead
and the one farthest away (on the same VXP header) is the positive lead.

and that's

> labeled VXP. And the header farthest away is the positive connection.
> Then, talking about R1 being fed by the positive terminal and R1 is fed
> from the VXP header pin.

The VXP header has two pins on it. One is the positive or plus power
lead and the other is the negative or minus power lead. VXP is short
for VXO Power. In a like vein, the VXO header, is short for VXO
Output and also has two pins, a hot lead and a cold lead.

>
> Maybe I am not looking at this correctly??

I believe you are not.

I hope I've been able to clarify it for you.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

Hi Jim;

OK, that un-confuses me. I wasn't looking at, or wasn't thinking
about the double pins. That does now make sense to my feeble brain.

Thanks much and 73,

Barney

On 3/2/2012 6:26 AM, Jim Kortge wrote:
> On 3/1/2012 10:08 PM, Barney wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi;
>
> Hi Barney,
>
> >
> > I noticed in section (5) the instructions say that in the picture
> > that the header closest to me is for the negative power lead
>
> No, it says that the (VXP) header pin closest to you is the minus lead
> and the one farthest away (on the same VXP header) is the positive lead.
>
> and that's
> > labeled VXP. And the header farthest away is the positive connection.
> > Then, talking about R1 being fed by the positive terminal and R1 is fed
> > from the VXP header pin.
>
> The VXP header has two pins on it. One is the positive or plus power
> lead and the other is the negative or minus power lead. VXP is short
> for VXO Power. In a like vein, the VXO header, is short for VXO
> Output and also has two pins, a hot lead and a cold lead.
> >
> > Maybe I am not looking at this correctly??
>
> I believe you are not.
>
> I hope I've been able to clarify it for you.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>

Hi Stew,

Your SAVXO is running. Allowing the oscillator to run continuously,
and keying the final amp is a time honored and perfectly good way to
operate the transmitter.

Have a great time with the combo.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Stew" <ke4yh@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2012 3:49 PM
Subject: [savxok8iqy] Completed and tested

| Hi all,
| Finished stuffing the SAVXO board and tested it out with my NS-40.
At
| 12.6V I am getting 5.5 to 7W out, depending on frequency (this is
with
| TR1 all the way counterclockwise).
| Has anyone noticed a backwave? With both boards open on the bench, I
can
| hear the VXO on my OMNI VII about ten feet away. VXO at S9+6 and the
| NS-40 into dummy load S9+24db. I don't see the backwave on the WM-2
| wattmeter.
| I would hate to have the rig putting out a backwave to the antenna
18db
| down.
| Comments?
| 73/72
| Stew ke4yh
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

I finally completed intergrating my NS-40 and SAVXO into a nice TenTec TP-47B enclosure. As far a driving the NS-40 all is well but the free running VXO prevents hearing any signals on the receiver.
I was using an SW-40 for receiver with a Magic Box and the radiation was strong enough to cover any signals on the 40 meter band.

Has anyone been sucessful with using the SAVXO on the air? If so, how did you eleminate the radiation from the receiver?

My thoughts are to enclose the VXO in subchassis (box). Can I bring the VXO leads out of a subchassis using feed through capactiors?
How about a shield made with copper window screening or flashing?

How about keying the VXO, will that cause it to become unstable?

Looking forward to your responses,
73
Stew ke4yh

On 3/17/2012 12:35 PM, Stew wrote:

> I finally completed intergrating my NS-40 and SAVXO into a nice TenTec TP-47B enclosure. As far a driving the NS-40 all is well but the free running VXO prevents hearing any signals on the receiver.
> I was using an SW-40 for receiver with a Magic Box and the radiation was strong enough to cover any signals on the 40 meter band.
>
> Has anyone been sucessful with using the SAVXO on the air? If so, how did you eleminate the radiation from the receiver?
>
> My thoughts are to enclose the VXO in subchassis (box). Can I bring the VXO leads out of a subchassis using feed through capactiors?
> How about a shield made with copper window screening or flashing?
>
> How about keying the VXO, will that cause it to become unstable?
>
> Looking forward to your responses,
> 73
> Stew ke4yh

Stew,

Why don't you hook up the SAVXO to the NS-40 using the connection
diagram included in the "Connecting a SAVXO to a NS-40" document on
the SAVXO web site. That way, the SAVXO isn't running all of the
time, but only when the NS-40 is keyed.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

On 5/2/2012 1:28 PM, bobdarby1005 wrote:

> Hi all,

Greetings Bob,

>
> I'm a total newbie so this may be dumb question but the waveform out of test section 1 appears to sinusoidal on the negative half but looks more like a square wave with ringing on the positive half.

Yes, that is "normal" for the oscillator used. The waveform gets
cleaned up later on in the final amp and the output filter.

>
> Peak to Peak voltage and tuning appear to be about as expected.

Good show!

>
> I'm guessing this is not as intended.

It is the way it should be.

Any suggestions as to probable cause?

The oscillator was optimized to oscillator, resulting in a less than
perfect sine wave output at that stage. As stated before, the output
waveform gets cleaned up considerably.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

On 5/11/2012 3:24 PM, arsn8wq wrote:

> I am only getting a frequency tuning range of 7.042.16 to 7.043.86 during the "First Section Tests." I am running the SAVXO at 9.27 vdc.

I don't know if it will operate down that low, but I can find out
tomorrow if I have a few moments to play.

It is also important to note that I screwed up on L4. I installed L4
without reading the instructions closely (:()

Is that inductor soldered from the Right pad for L2 to the Left pad
for L4? If so, then L4 is installed correctly, assuming of course
that you used the 18 uH inductor for L4.

> So I had to unsolder L4 and then solder a short piece of wire back to it so I could install it in the slanted configureation up to right pad of L2. Would L2 be throwing off my tuning range?

There is no L2.

Do you have the crystal cased connected together and grounded? If
not, the will reduce the tuning span greatly. Do you have D1
installed correctly? Having it reversed will greatly reduce the
tuning range.

72 and please keep us posted you your progress,

Jim, K8IQY

I thought the SAVXO list might be interested in the email below.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: SAVXO stand alone transmitter
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 11:41:09 -0400
From: Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com>
To: Alan Jones <oalanjones@gmail.com>

On 8/9/2012 6:17 PM, Alan Jones wrote:
> Hi Jim,

Good morning Al,

>
> Can your 17 Meter transmitter circuit (February 18, 2012) be modified
> for 40 meters?

If you are referring to the document "Test Driving the SAVXO on
17-Meters", yes, that configuration can run on any ham band with
appropriate changes to the frequency sensitive components. 40-meters
requires that they be frequency scaled by the ratio of 18.1MHz/7.1MHz.
>
> Is C4,L3,C6, and C7 making up a low pass filter?

Part of the low pass filtering. C2, L2, and C3 make up the first part
of the low pass filter. There are actually two low pass filter
sections to assure the harmonic content meets FCC regulations.

>
> Which components will I need to change to get your circuit to work on
> 40 meters?

L1 = 3T, C2 = 470pF, L2 = 0.82uH (14T on T37-2 toroid or 17T on T37-6
toroid), C3 + C4 = 1000pF (These capacitors are in parallel and can be
combined into a single capacitor), L3 = 0.994uH (16T on T37-2 toroid
or 18T on T37-6 toroid), C5 = 143pF (Use 120pF in parallel with 22pF),
C6 + C7 = 352pF (Use 270pF in parallel with 82pF)

The above values should be very close and work fine on 40-meters.

Please keep me posted on how these value work if you build the 'lil
one transistor SAVXO amplifier. Take lots of good digital photos to
document you work, as I'm sure others will be interested in
duplicating your efforts.

72/73 and happy building,

Jim, K8IQY

Jim,

Thanks for providing the component changes.

I was surprised to see that I just happened to have a 2N2219 in my junk box with a heat sink, lol.

I hope to begin building the “one transistor SAVXO amplifier” this evening.

Al, N8WQ

From: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Kortge
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 5:15 PM
To: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [savxok8iqy] Fwd: Re: SAVXO stand alone transmitter

On 8/9/2012 6:17 PM, Alan Jones wrote:
> Hi Jim,

Good morning Al,

>
> Can your 17 Meter transmitter circuit (February 18, 2012) be modified
> for 40 meters?

If you are referring to the document "Test Driving the SAVXO on
17-Meters", yes, that configuration can run on any ham band with
appropriate changes to the frequency sensitive components. 40-meters
requires that they be frequency scaled by the ratio of 18.1MHz/7.1MHz.
>
> Is C4,L3,C6, and C7 making up a low pass filter?

Part of the low pass filtering. C2, L2, and C3 make up the first part
of the low pass filter. There are actually two low pass filter
sections to assure the harmonic content meets FCC regulations.

>
> Which components will I need to change to get your circuit to work on
> 40 meters?

L1 = 3T, C2 = 470pF, L2 = 0.82uH (14T on T37-2 toroid or 17T on T37-6
toroid), C3 + C4 = 1000pF (These capacitors are in parallel and can be
combined into a single capacitor), L3 = 0.994uH (16T on T37-2 toroid
or 18T on T37-6 toroid), C5 = 143pF (Use 120pF in parallel with 22pF),
C6 + C7 = 352pF (Use 270pF in parallel with 82pF)

The above values should be very close and work fine on 40-meters.

Please keep me posted on how these value work if you build the 'lil
one transistor SAVXO amplifier. Take lots of good digital photos to
document you work, as I'm sure others will be interested in
duplicating your efforts.

72/73 and happy building,

Jim, K8IQY

Hello everyone. Gosh I got to be the worst kit builder in the world. Took me a few tries on the NS-40 and now the VXO. Dead once put together. Thought I was getting the right volt measurements via rf probe when building, but not sure. My rf probe (hand made to get a 22Mohm input to match) measures only 2.44 volts on Section 5 test. I guess first question is whether I can get the same voltage measured once fully built!? Then on Section 7 test on L5 I only mesure 0.35 volts with rf probe. Sounds like a bad solder joint or maybe even Q1 or Q2 are bad. Thoughts?

Been back tracking my connections and component layout and all seems in order. Will keep checking solder joints.

Help, Jerry N9AC

GA Jerry,

Do you have any way to check your probe/dvm's accuracy? That 22M
input impedance seems vy high.

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
QRP=MAX(FUN/$)
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry" <treismine2@yahoo.com>
To: <savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 1:40 PM
Subject: [savxok8iqy] VXO not working!

| Hello everyone. Gosh I got to be the worst kit builder in the
world. Took me a few tries on the NS-40 and now the VXO. Dead once
put together. Thought I was getting the right volt measurements via
rf probe when building, but not sure. My rf probe (hand made to get a
22Mohm input to match) measures only 2.44 volts on Section 5 test. I
guess first question is whether I can get the same voltage measured
once fully built!? Then on Section 7 test on L5 I only mesure 0.35
volts with rf probe. Sounds like a bad solder joint or maybe even Q1
or Q2 are bad. Thoughts?
|
| Been back tracking my connections and component layout and all seems
in order. Will keep checking solder joints.
|
| Help, Jerry N9AC
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

HI Jerry,

If you want to bring it over and look at it on my scope, you’re welcome to do so. Can’t do it today but maybe tomorrow? I might even be able to get the cover off mine so we could compare measurements or something.

Martin

K0BXB

huyettmeh@gmail.com

From: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 1:41 PM
To: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [savxok8iqy] VXO not working!

The meter used is an older model - Bechman model TECH310 and manual states 22Mohm input for the DC volt scale. So my rf probe uses a higher risistor value (9Mohms) to give accurate readings on the digital readout. Took measurements again and here is what I get for all three checks:

section 5 - 3.15 volts

section 7 - 0.47volts

and section 9 option 2 - 0 volts!

Jerry

From: WA0ITP
To: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: [savxok8iqy] VXO not working!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry" <mailto:treismine2%40yahoo.com>
To: <mailto:savxok8iqy%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 1:40 PM
Subject: [savxok8iqy] VXO not working!

| Hello everyone. Gosh I got to be the worst kit builder in the
world. Took me a few tries on the NS-40 and now the VXO. Dead once
put together. Thought I was getting the right volt measurements via
rf probe when building, but not sure. My rf probe (hand made to get a
22Mohm input to match) measures only 2.44 volts on Section 5 test. I
guess first question is whether I can get the same voltage measured
once fully built!? Then on Section 7 test on L5 I only mesure 0.35
volts with rf probe. Sounds like a bad solder joint or maybe even Q1
or Q2 are bad. Thoughts?
|
| Been back tracking my connections and component layout and all seems
in order. Will keep checking solder joints.
|
| Help, Jerry N9AC
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

Definitely sounds like a problem. You might take Martin up on his offer. Comparing with one that's working would be ideal.

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
QRP=MAX(FUN/$)
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----

From: Jerry Kopstein

To: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 3:25 PM

Subject: Re: [savxok8iqy] VXO not working!

The meter used is an older model - Bechman model TECH310 and manual states 22Mohm input for the DC volt scale. So my rf probe uses a higher risistor value (9Mohms) to give accurate readings on the digital readout. Took measurements again and here is what I get for all three checks:

section 5 - 3.15 volts

section 7 - 0.47volts

and section 9 option 2 - 0 volts!

Jerry

From: WA0ITP
To: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: [savxok8iqy] VXO not working!

GA Jerry,

Do you have any way to check your probe/dvm's accuracy? That 22M
input impedance seems vy high.

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
QRP=MAX(FUN/$)
72 WAØITP
http://www.wa0itp.com/
http://www.4sqrp.com/
http://www.qrpspots.com/

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry" <mailto:treismine2%40yahoo.com>
To: <mailto:savxok8iqy%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 1:40 PM
Subject: [savxok8iqy] VXO not working!

| Hello everyone. Gosh I got to be the worst kit builder in the
world. Took me a few tries on the NS-40 and now the VXO. Dead once
put together. Thought I was getting the right volt measurements via
rf probe when building, but not sure. My rf probe (hand made to get a
22Mohm input to match) measures only 2.44 volts on Section 5 test. I
guess first question is whether I can get the same voltage measured
once fully built!? Then on Section 7 test on L5 I only mesure 0.35
volts with rf probe. Sounds like a bad solder joint or maybe even Q1
or Q2 are bad. Thoughts?
|
| Been back tracking my connections and component layout and all seems
in order. Will keep checking solder joints.
|
| Help, Jerry N9AC
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

Excellent! Good detective work.

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
QRP=MAX(FUN/$)
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry" <treismine2@yahoo.com>
To: <savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 6:12 PM
Subject: [savxok8iqy] VXO NOW working!!!!

| Ok, thanks for comments and offer to help. Did some more board
checks and all seemed in order but nothing on the output. I did
replace Q2 but that made no difference. Ended up taking T1 out,
cleaned the leads and resoldered. Now off and running!! Yippie.
|
| Catch everyone on the air soon,
|
| Jerry n9ac
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

HI Jerry,

Mine tunes about what yours does.

Martin

K0BXB

huyettmeh@gmail.com

From: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2012 10:19 AM
To: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [savxok8iqy] Frequency range of VXO

Now that I got the VXO going, just wondering what everyone is seeing for range they can operate. Mine goes 7033.5 to 7040.5 Khz. Is that what everyone is seeing for a range? Just wondering. I'd like to get down to 7030 or below so just checking to see how others are doing or if anyone modified theirs to get lower on the band.

Jerry

On 8/16/2012 11:18 AM, Jerry wrote:

> Now that I got the VXO going, just wondering what everyone is seeing for range they can operate. Mine goes 7033.5 to 7040.5 Khz. Is that what everyone is seeing for a range? Just wondering. I'd like to get down to 7030 or below so just checking to see how others are doing or if anyone modified theirs to get lower on the band.
>
> Jerry
>

Jerry,

The frequency span on your SAVXO is right in the range that can be
expected using 7.040 MHz crystals. If you increase the value of the
L4 inductor, it will go lower in frequency, but then the top end will
move down also, so you will lose 7.040.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

Gotta always scrape clean the coating on the transformer wires when soldering to the pcb.

K6kub said that.

From: WA0ITP
To: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: [savxok8iqy] VXO NOW working!!!!

Excellent! Good detective work.

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
QRP=MAX(FUN/$)
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry" <treismine2@yahoo.com>
To: <savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 6:12 PM
Subject: [savxok8iqy] VXO NOW working!!!!

| Ok, thanks for comments and offer to help. Did some more board
checks and all seemed in order but nothing on the output. I did
replace Q2 but that made no difference. Ended up taking T1 out,
cleaned the leads and resoldered. Now off and running!! Yippie.
|
| Catch everyone on the air soon,
|
| Jerry n9ac
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

Thanks Jim for the fast reply. I have the VFO all built and it appears to work fine, I have a question though. When I looked at the output in section 1 on my scope, it looked rather ugly and of course after section 2 it looked equally as ugly just a bit more amplified. After I got it all done and looked at the output it looked considerably better, no doubt because of the LPF, but it still would distort the top of the wave form if I turn the drive all the way up. Should this be a nice clean sine wave, because the NS40 is just going to amplify any distortion I would think, or is this because of a wrong load? Am I making too much out of this?

Joel
KB6QVI

Well, I have finished the SAVXO and tested with the NS40 and it looks pretty good. Check it out in the photo section under "KB6QVI's SAVXO" or click this link: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/savxok8iqy/photos/album/224447069/pic/list

The tuning range is just below 7.115 to just above 7.125 and is putting out just at 8 watts as can be seen in the pictures on the bottom 30 watt scale, and that's with the drive turned way down. The output wave form looks pretty clean also, and listening on my "big rig" is sounds okay, maybe a little clicky, but I was only touching two clip leads together to key it though. Now to mount this all in a new Ten-Tec enclosure. Thanks Jim, for a really cool VXO. Maybe you all will hear me on 7.122.

Joel
KB6QVI

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, "caulktel" wrote:
>
> Thanks Jim for the fast reply. I have the VFO all built and it appears to work fine, I have a question though. When I looked at the output in section 1 on my scope, it looked rather ugly and of course after section 2 it looked equally as ugly just a bit more amplified. After I got it all done and looked at the output it looked considerably better, no doubt because of the LPF, but it still would distort the top of the wave form if I turn the drive all the way up. Should this be a nice clean sine wave, because the NS40 is just going to amplify any distortion I would think, or is this because of a wrong load? Am I making too much out of this?
>
> Joel
> KB6QVI
>

Congratulations Joel! Hope to hear the NS-40 on the 7122 net
Wedneday evening.
----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "caulktel" <caulktel@gmail.com>
To: <savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2012 12:07 PM
Subject: [savxok8iqy] Re: Question on parts received with kit

| Well, I have finished the SAVXO and tested with the NS40 and it
looks pretty good. Check it out in the photo section under "KB6QVI's
SAVXO" or click this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/savxok8iqy/photos/album/224447069/pic/list
|
| The tuning range is just below 7.115 to just above 7.125 and is
putting out just at 8 watts as can be seen in the pictures on the
bottom 30 watt scale, and that's with the drive turned way down. The
output wave form looks pretty clean also, and listening on my "big
rig" is sounds okay, maybe a little clicky, but I was only touching
two clip leads together to key it though. Now to mount this all in a
new Ten-Tec enclosure. Thanks Jim, for a really cool VXO. Maybe you
all will hear me on 7.122.
|
| Joel
| KB6QVI
|
| --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, "caulktel" wrote:
| >
| > Thanks Jim for the fast reply. I have the VFO all built and it
appears to work fine, I have a question though. When I looked at the
output in section 1 on my scope, it looked rather ugly and of course
after section 2 it looked equally as ugly just a bit more amplified.
After I got it all done and looked at the output it looked
considerably better, no doubt because of the LPF, but it still would
distort the top of the wave form if I turn the drive all the way up.
Should this be a nice clean sine wave, because the NS40 is just going
to amplify any distortion I would think, or is this because of a wrong
load? Am I making too much out of this?
| >
| > Joel
| > KB6QVI
| >
|
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

We only supply 40M crystals with the SVXO. You might try ESS crystals
http://www.expandedspectrumsystems.com/ to see if they have 17M crystals.

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "brian_w5ye" <brian_w5ye@yahoo.com>
To: <savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 12:47 PM
Subject: [savxok8iqy] SAVXO setup for 17 meters

| Can a SAVXO be ordered, specifying 17 meter crystals, instead of the standard
40 meters?
|
| Also, if I already have a 40 meter version, can I just order the 17 meter
crystals - and if so, where?
|
| Thanks,
|
| Brian - W5YE
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

OK, thanks .. that was what I thought. I was asking for a friend who wants to build a 17 meter version ..

Now I have a new question ...

I am at TEST 2 in the assembly ... I got 4.61 vdc at test 1, using a RF probe, but get nothing at test 2 ... where should I start looking? I checked all solder connections and they look good. I also re-checked the component values, and they are correct also ...

Any suggestions ??

Thanks,

Brian

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> On 3/13/2013 1:47 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > Can a SAVXO be ordered, specifying 17 meter crystals, instead of the standard 40 meters?
>
> I don't believe that option is currently available Brian. Maybe it
> ought to be though and I'll copy this reply to those who make those
> kinds of decisions.
>
> >
> > Also, if I already have a 40 meter version, can I just order the 17 meter crystals
>
> Yes.
>
> - and if so, where?
>
> ESS or Expanded Spectrum Systems is where the units in my 17-meter
> SAVXO came from.
> >
> > Thanks,
>
> You are welcome, and thanks for being a customer of the 40-meter SAVXO.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

On 3/13/2013 4:47 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:

> OK, thanks .. that was what I thought. I was asking for a friend who wants to build a 17 meter version ..
>
> Now I have a new question ...
>
> I am at TEST 2 in the assembly ... I got 4.61 vdc at test 1, using a RF probe,

That's spot on.

but get nothing at test 2 ... where should I start looking?

Are you still getting the test 1 reading on C9? If so, did you
install the C2 capacitor? If so, then R4, R10, or R18 are not
installed or the wrong value, or Q2 is bad. I'm assuming that the
power is applied correctly to the PCB and hasn't been connected backward.

I checked all solder connections and they look good. I also
re-checked the component values, and they are correct also ...

Are the components in the correct holes? If they are, the transistor
is bad.

>
> Any suggestions ??

See above.....

Sorry that you are having issues, but we'll get it figured out.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:

>
> On 3/13/2013 4:47 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > OK, thanks .. that was what I thought. I was asking for a friend who wants to build a 17 meter version ..
> >
> > Now I have a new question ...
> >
> > I am at TEST 2 in the assembly ... I got 4.61 vdc at test 1, using a RF probe,
>
> That's spot on.
>
> but get nothing at test 2 ... where should I start looking?
>
> Are you still getting the test 1 reading on C9? ... didn't check this yet - will do so tomorrow and let you know ... If so, did you
> install the C2 capacitor? YES ... If so, then R4, R10, or R18 are not
> installed or the wrong value ... R4, and R10 are installed - correct value per manual .. there is no R18 .. did you mean R8? ... it is installed and correct value per manual , or Q2 is bad. I'm assuming that the
> power is applied correctly to the PCB and hasn't been connected backward. I was very careful to make sure the connections were correct polarity ...
>
> I checked all solder connections and they look good. I also
> re-checked the component values, and they are correct also ...
>
> Are the components in the correct holes? ... Yes, I checked each one a second time and the solder joints ... If they are, the transistor
> is bad.
> > ... Crystals are liked together, as in your pictures, and then a ground wire runs from middle crystal to the small pad just above middle crystal (right under the "A" in "Alone") ... I assume that was the ground pad you were referring to ???

> > Any suggestions ??
>
> See above.....
>
> Sorry that you are having issues, but we'll get it figured out.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

One more question ...

When you do test 2, is the L5 pad used the "lower one", next to the "Q3" lettering? Manual says the "L5 pad nearest C2" ... actually it looks like an even distance from C2 to either pad on L5 ... I used the lower pad for TEST 2 ..

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> On 3/13/2013 4:47 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > OK, thanks .. that was what I thought. I was asking for a friend who wants to build a 17 meter version ..
> >
> > Now I have a new question ...
> >
> > I am at TEST 2 in the assembly ... I got 4.61 vdc at test 1, using a RF probe,
>
> That's spot on.
>
> but get nothing at test 2 ... where should I start looking?
>
> Are you still getting the test 1 reading on C9? If so, did you
> install the C2 capacitor? If so, then R4, R10, or R18 are not
> installed or the wrong value, or Q2 is bad. I'm assuming that the
> power is applied correctly to the PCB and hasn't been connected backward.
>
> I checked all solder connections and they look good. I also
> re-checked the component values, and they are correct also ...
>
> Are the components in the correct holes? If they are, the transistor
> is bad.
> >
> > Any suggestions ??
>
> See above.....
>
> Sorry that you are having issues, but we'll get it figured out.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

On 3/13/2013 5:57 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:

>
>
> One more question ...
>
> When you do test 2, is the L5 pad used the "lower one", next to the
> "Q3" lettering?

Yes, that is the correct pad.

Manual says the "L5 pad nearest C2" ... actually it

> looks like an even distance from C2 to either pad on L5 ... I used the
> lower pad for TEST 2 ..

OK, that is the correct pad. Please carefully measure the emitter,
base, and collector pads of Q2 with respect to ground with power
applied. From that we can tell if Q2 is properly biased and should be
working. The collector should be at the supply voltage, the base at
1/2 the supply voltage, and the emitter about 0.7 volts less than the
base.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, "brian_w5ye" wrote:
>
>
> --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge jim.k8iqy@ wrote:
> >
> > On 3/13/2013 4:47 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > > OK, thanks .. that was what I thought. I was asking for a friend who
> wants to build a 17 meter version ..
> > >
> > > Now I have a new question ...
> > >
> > > I am at TEST 2 in the assembly ... I got 4.61 vdc at test 1, using a
> RF probe,
> >
> > That's spot on.

> >
> > but get nothing at test 2 ... where should I start looking?
> >
> > Are you still getting the test 1 reading on C9? ... didn't check this
> yet - will do so tomorrow and let you know ... I measured R4 again, and I do not have any voltage now. Something must have blown ...

If so, did you
> > install the C2 capacitor? YES ... If so, then R4, R10, or R18 are not
> > installed or the wrong value ... R4, and R10 are installed - correct
> value per manual .. there is no R18 .. did you mean R8? ... it is
> installed and correct value per manual , or Q2 is bad. I'm assuming
> that the
> > power is applied correctly to the PCB and hasn't been connected
> backward. I was very careful to make sure the connections were correct
> polarity ...
> >
> > I checked all solder connections and they look good. I also
> > re-checked the component values, and they are correct also ...
> >
> > Are the components in the correct holes? ... Yes, I checked each one a
> second time and the solder joints ... If they are, the transistor
> > is bad.
> > > ... Crystals are liked together, as in your pictures, and then a
> ground wire runs from middle crystal to the small pad just above middle
> crystal (right under the "A" in "Alone") ... I assume that was the
> ground pad you were referring to ???
> > > Any suggestions ??
> >
> > See above.....
> >
> > Sorry that you are having issues, but we'll get it figured out.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
>

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:

>
> On 3/13/2013 5:57 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> >
> >
> > One more question ...
> >
> > When you do test 2, is the L5 pad used the "lower one", next to the
> > "Q3" lettering?
>
> Yes, that is the correct pad.
>
> Manual says the "L5 pad nearest C2" ... actually it
> > looks like an even distance from C2 to either pad on L5 ... I used the
> > lower pad for TEST 2 ..
>
> OK, that is the correct pad. Please carefully measure the emitter,
> base, and collector pads of Q2 with respect to ground with power
> applied. From that we can tell if Q2 is properly biased and should be
> working. The collector should be at the supply voltage, the base at
> 1/2 the supply voltage, and the emitter about 0.7 volts less than the
> base.
>
very little voltage on collector - about .1 volt .. I think I must have shorted something somewhere along the way ... should I extract Q2 ... any others (Q1)? etc ...???

Brian

> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

On 3/13/2013 9:22 PM, Djwilcox01@aol.com wrote:

> Jim,

Good morning Dave,

> I replaced the choke with a 4.7 (really 4.46 uH measured on my AADE
> inductance meter..... it was consistent each time I retested it) and
> the frequency moved from 7.033 through 7.043 taking away the 7.030 Mhz
> segment.

That's not good is it. :-(

Replaced it with a 5.2 (5.45 uH) choke and the range went

> from 7.013 - 7.036. Remeasured the choke in the kit for L9 and it
> measured in at 5.6 uH which is correct. The band spread was 7.016 -
> 7.0395.

Nice span but misses the sweet spot at 7.040, which is why you emailed
me in the first place.

> I put it back in and went to a 12 volt supply and lo and behold....
> the band spread is now 7.015 - 7.043 Mhz.

Ah ha....that factoid is one that I didn't know about. Must be with 9
volts on the supply the oscillator isn't fully functioning or it has
something to do with the varicap diode tuning being less than what was
designed in.

So another problem that

> occurs with 9 volts. Unstable and off frequency.

Yes, good information to have.

> Anyway it is back in its case waiting for some better time to play
> with it.
> Thanks again.

You bet. Thanks so much for keeping me posted on your experiments.
I'm going to post the above results to the SAVXO Support Group.
Others will want to know about the 9 volt supply issue with respect to
stability and tuning range.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

On 3/14/2013 8:59 AM, brian_w5ye wrote:

>
>
>
> --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> >
> > On 3/13/2013 5:57 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > One more question ...
> > >
> > > When you do test 2, is the L5 pad used the "lower one", next to the
> > > "Q3" lettering?
> >
> > Yes, that is the correct pad.
> >
> > Manual says the "L5 pad nearest C2" ... actually it
> > > looks like an even distance from C2 to either pad on L5 ... I
> used the
> > > lower pad for TEST 2 ..
> >
> > OK, that is the correct pad. Please carefully measure the emitter,
> > base, and collector pads of Q2 with respect to ground with power
> > applied. From that we can tell if Q2 is properly biased and should be
> > working. The collector should be at the supply voltage, the base at
> > 1/2 the supply voltage, and the emitter about 0.7 volts less than the
> > base.
> >
> very little voltage on collector - about .1 volt .. I think I must
> have shorted something somewhere along the way ... should I extract Q2
> ... any others (Q1)? etc ...???
>
> Brian

Brian,

I guess at this point I'd replace both Q1 and Q2. Cut off the
Transistor leads as close to the body as you can and remove the leads
one at a time. That will minimize any damage to the PCB.

72 and Good Luck,

Jim, K8IQY

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:

>
> On 3/14/2013 8:59 AM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge jim.k8iqy@ wrote:
> > >
> > > On 3/13/2013 5:57 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > One more question ...
> > > >
> > > > When you do test 2, is the L5 pad used the "lower one", next to the
> > > > "Q3" lettering?
> > >
> > > Yes, that is the correct pad.
> > >
> > > Manual says the "L5 pad nearest C2" ... actually it
> > > > looks like an even distance from C2 to either pad on L5 ... I
> > used the
> > > > lower pad for TEST 2 ..
> > >
> > > OK, that is the correct pad. Please carefully measure the emitter,
> > > base, and collector pads of Q2 with respect to ground with power
> > > applied. From that we can tell if Q2 is properly biased and should be
> > > working. The collector should be at the supply voltage, the base at
> > > 1/2 the supply voltage, and the emitter about 0.7 volts less than the
> > > base.
> > >
> > very little voltage on collector - about .1 volt .. I think I must
> > have shorted something somewhere along the way ... should I extract Q2
> > ... any others (Q1)? etc ...???
> >
> > Brian
>
> Brian,
>
> I guess at this point I'd replace both Q1 and Q2. Cut off the
> Transistor leads as close to the body as you can and remove the leads
> one at a time. That will minimize any damage to the PCB.
>
> 72 and Good Luck,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

OK, will do ... do you have any suggestion where I should order them? Or is maybe Radio Shack a good option?

Thanks,

Brian

On 3/14/2013 11:31 AM, brian_w5ye wrote:

>
>
>
> --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> >
> > On 3/14/2013 8:59 AM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge jim.k8iqy@ wrote:
> > > >
> > > > On 3/13/2013 5:57 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > One more question ...
> > > > >
> > > > > When you do test 2, is the L5 pad used the "lower one", next
> to the
> > > > > "Q3" lettering?
> > > >
> > > > Yes, that is the correct pad.
> > > >
> > > > Manual says the "L5 pad nearest C2" ... actually it
> > > > > looks like an even distance from C2 to either pad on L5 ... I
> > > used the
> > > > > lower pad for TEST 2 ..
> > > >
> > > > OK, that is the correct pad. Please carefully measure the emitter,
> > > > base, and collector pads of Q2 with respect to ground with power
> > > > applied. From that we can tell if Q2 is properly biased and
> should be
> > > > working. The collector should be at the supply voltage, the base at
> > > > 1/2 the supply voltage, and the emitter about 0.7 volts less
> than the
> > > > base.
> > > >
> > > very little voltage on collector - about .1 volt .. I think I must
> > > have shorted something somewhere along the way ... should I
> extract Q2
> > > ... any others (Q1)? etc ...???
> > >
> > > Brian
> >
> > Brian,
> >
> > I guess at this point I'd replace both Q1 and Q2. Cut off the
> > Transistor leads as close to the body as you can and remove the leads
> > one at a time. That will minimize any damage to the PCB.
> >
> > 72 and Good Luck,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
>
> OK, will do ... do you have any suggestion where I should order them?
> Or is maybe Radio Shack a good option?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>

Brian,

Radio Shack is probably OK, but they will be expensive there. If they
don't have PN2222A devices, a 2N3904 will work just as well and you
may be able to find a pack containing that type or something equivalent.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

Jim:

Radio Shack has this - a "MPS 2222A"

Model: MPS2222A | Catalog #: 276-2009

MPS2222A Transistor

Price:: $1.49

(3 reviews)

Designed for high-speed, medium-power switching and general-purpose amplifier applications.

Will this work?

Otherwise, they show a NPN - 2N-222.

Thanks,

Brian

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> On 3/14/2013 8:59 AM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge jim.k8iqy@ wrote:
> > >
> > > On 3/13/2013 5:57 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > One more question ...
> > > >
> > > > When you do test 2, is the L5 pad used the "lower one", next to the
> > > > "Q3" lettering?
> > >
> > > Yes, that is the correct pad.
> > >
> > > Manual says the "L5 pad nearest C2" ... actually it
> > > > looks like an even distance from C2 to either pad on L5 ... I
> > used the
> > > > lower pad for TEST 2 ..
> > >
> > > OK, that is the correct pad. Please carefully measure the emitter,
> > > base, and collector pads of Q2 with respect to ground with power
> > > applied. From that we can tell if Q2 is properly biased and should be
> > > working. The collector should be at the supply voltage, the base at
> > > 1/2 the supply voltage, and the emitter about 0.7 volts less than the
> > > base.
> > >
> > very little voltage on collector - about .1 volt .. I think I must
> > have shorted something somewhere along the way ... should I extract Q2
> > ... any others (Q1)? etc ...???
> >
> > Brian
>
> Brian,
>
> I guess at this point I'd replace both Q1 and Q2. Cut off the
> Transistor leads as close to the body as you can and remove the leads
> one at a time. That will minimize any damage to the PCB.
>
> 72 and Good Luck,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:

>
> On 3/14/2013 8:59 AM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge jim.k8iqy@ wrote:
> > >
> > > On 3/13/2013 5:57 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > One more question ...
> > > >
> > > > When you do test 2, is the L5 pad used the "lower one", next to the
> > > > "Q3" lettering?
> > >
> > > Yes, that is the correct pad.
> > >
> > > Manual says the "L5 pad nearest C2" ... actually it
> > > > looks like an even distance from C2 to either pad on L5 ... I
> > used the
> > > > lower pad for TEST 2 ..
> > >
> > > OK, that is the correct pad. Please carefully measure the emitter,
> > > base, and collector pads of Q2 with respect to ground with power
> > > applied. From that we can tell if Q2 is properly biased and should be
> > > working. The collector should be at the supply voltage, the base at
> > > 1/2 the supply voltage, and the emitter about 0.7 volts less than the
> > > base.
> > >
> > very little voltage on collector - about .1 volt .. I think I must
> > have shorted something somewhere along the way ... should I extract Q2
> > ... any others (Q1)? etc ...???
> >
> > Brian
>
> Brian,
>
> I guess at this point I'd replace both Q1 and Q2. Cut off the
> Transistor leads as close to the body as you can and remove the leads
> one at a time. That will minimize any damage to the PCB.
>
> 72 and Good Luck,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

OK, will do ... do you have any suggestion where I should order them? Or is maybe Radio Shack a good option?

Thanks,

Brian

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:

>
> On 3/14/2013 11:31 AM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge jim.k8iqy@ wrote:
> > >
> > > On 3/14/2013 8:59 AM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge jim.k8iqy@ wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > On 3/13/2013 5:57 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > One more question ...
> > > > > >
> > > > > > When you do test 2, is the L5 pad used the "lower one", next
> > to the
> > > > > > "Q3" lettering?
> > > > >
> > > > > Yes, that is the correct pad.
> > > > >
> > > > > Manual says the "L5 pad nearest C2" ... actually it
> > > > > > looks like an even distance from C2 to either pad on L5 ... I
> > > > used the
> > > > > > lower pad for TEST 2 ..
> > > > >
> > > > > OK, that is the correct pad. Please carefully measure the emitter,
> > > > > base, and collector pads of Q2 with respect to ground with power
> > > > > applied. From that we can tell if Q2 is properly biased and
> > should be
> > > > > working. The collector should be at the supply voltage, the base at
> > > > > 1/2 the supply voltage, and the emitter about 0.7 volts less
> > than the
> > > > > base.
> > > > >
> > > > very little voltage on collector - about .1 volt .. I think I must
> > > > have shorted something somewhere along the way ... should I
> > extract Q2
> > > > ... any others (Q1)? etc ...???
> > > >
> > > > Brian
> > >
> > > Brian,
> > >
> > > I guess at this point I'd replace both Q1 and Q2. Cut off the
> > > Transistor leads as close to the body as you can and remove the leads
> > > one at a time. That will minimize any damage to the PCB.
> > >
> > > 72 and Good Luck,
> > >
> > > Jim, K8IQY
> > >
> >
> > OK, will do ... do you have any suggestion where I should order them?
> > Or is maybe Radio Shack a good option?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Brian
> >
>
> Brian,
>
> Radio Shack is probably OK, but they will be expensive there. If they
> don't have PN2222A devices, a 2N3904 will work just as well and you
> may be able to find a pack containing that type or something equivalent.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

Thanks. I just bought two of the MSP 2222A, that I had shown you. According to the RS cross reference, it is the same as the 2N-2222A. They were $1.49/ea ... I will stick them in and see what happens ...

Also, while I was removing the old ones, I checked D1 with an ohmmeter, just in case it might have shorted, but it appeared to be ok, as it did not show either "open" or "dead short" ... it showed some resistance, so I am assuming it is ok. Nothing else on the board should be affected.

I think I know how this happened .... I have a PC board holder, the clamps of which are metal. In clamping the board, I must have inadvertently touched the clamp on a side of the board, touching a pad (or pads) where there was voltage present, shorting it to ground.

Many thanks for your help, and patience ...

73,

Brian

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:

>
> On 3/14/2013 11:31 AM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge jim.k8iqy@ wrote:
> > >
> > > On 3/14/2013 8:59 AM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge jim.k8iqy@ wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > On 3/13/2013 5:57 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > One more question ...
> > > > > >
> > > > > > When you do test 2, is the L5 pad used the "lower one", next
> > to the
> > > > > > "Q3" lettering?
> > > > >
> > > > > Yes, that is the correct pad.
> > > > >
> > > > > Manual says the "L5 pad nearest C2" ... actually it
> > > > > > looks like an even distance from C2 to either pad on L5 ... I
> > > > used the
> > > > > > lower pad for TEST 2 ..
> > > > >
> > > > > OK, that is the correct pad. Please carefully measure the emitter,
> > > > > base, and collector pads of Q2 with respect to ground with power
> > > > > applied. From that we can tell if Q2 is properly biased and
> > should be
> > > > > working. The collector should be at the supply voltage, the base at
> > > > > 1/2 the supply voltage, and the emitter about 0.7 volts less
> > than the
> > > > > base.
> > > > >
> > > > very little voltage on collector - about .1 volt .. I think I must
> > > > have shorted something somewhere along the way ... should I
> > extract Q2
> > > > ... any others (Q1)? etc ...???
> > > >
> > > > Brian
> > >
> > > Brian,
> > >
> > > I guess at this point I'd replace both Q1 and Q2. Cut off the
> > > Transistor leads as close to the body as you can and remove the leads
> > > one at a time. That will minimize any damage to the PCB.
> > >
> > > 72 and Good Luck,
> > >
> > > Jim, K8IQY
> > >
> >
> > OK, will do ... do you have any suggestion where I should order them?
> > Or is maybe Radio Shack a good option?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Brian
> >
>
> Brian,
>
> Radio Shack is probably OK, but they will be expensive there. If they
> don't have PN2222A devices, a 2N3904 will work just as well and you
> may be able to find a pack containing that type or something equivalent.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

Jim:

I think I am back in business ... installed new Q1, and got 4+ vdc ... then installed new Q2, and got 12.5 on collector, and about 4.1 on the emitter, and 4.6 on the base ...

how does that sound ??? I guess I can proceed on ???

Brian

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:

>
> On 3/14/2013 11:31 AM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge jim.k8iqy@ wrote:
> > >
> > > On 3/14/2013 8:59 AM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge jim.k8iqy@ wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > On 3/13/2013 5:57 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > One more question ...
> > > > > >
> > > > > > When you do test 2, is the L5 pad used the "lower one", next
> > to the
> > > > > > "Q3" lettering?
> > > > >
> > > > > Yes, that is the correct pad.
> > > > >
> > > > > Manual says the "L5 pad nearest C2" ... actually it
> > > > > > looks like an even distance from C2 to either pad on L5 ... I
> > > > used the
> > > > > > lower pad for TEST 2 ..
> > > > >
> > > > > OK, that is the correct pad. Please carefully measure the emitter,
> > > > > base, and collector pads of Q2 with respect to ground with power
> > > > > applied. From that we can tell if Q2 is properly biased and
> > should be
> > > > > working. The collector should be at the supply voltage, the base at
> > > > > 1/2 the supply voltage, and the emitter about 0.7 volts less
> > than the
> > > > > base.
> > > > >
> > > > very little voltage on collector - about .1 volt .. I think I must
> > > > have shorted something somewhere along the way ... should I
> > extract Q2
> > > > ... any others (Q1)? etc ...???
> > > >
> > > > Brian
> > >
> > > Brian,
> > >
> > > I guess at this point I'd replace both Q1 and Q2. Cut off the
> > > Transistor leads as close to the body as you can and remove the leads
> > > one at a time. That will minimize any damage to the PCB.
> > >
> > > 72 and Good Luck,
> > >
> > > Jim, K8IQY
> > >
> >
> > OK, will do ... do you have any suggestion where I should order them?
> > Or is maybe Radio Shack a good option?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Brian
> >
>
> Brian,
>
> Radio Shack is probably OK, but they will be expensive there. If they
> don't have PN2222A devices, a 2N3904 will work just as well and you
> may be able to find a pack containing that type or something equivalent.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

Many thanks for your help, and patience ...

73,

Brian

Jim:

I have installed everything, but the last resistor - R9, a 18 Ohm. I apparently do not have one in the parts packet. I have looked very carefully at all of the resistors on the board, and it wasn't installed accidentally. I have one leftover resistor - a 220 Ohm. I will look for one in my junkbox, or go to RS. No big deal ...

One question - in deciding on which way to go with the final setup ... my friend wants to build a NS-40, and SAVXO and put them on 17, as I mentioned earlier. At this stage on mine, I must decide whether to do the same. As I understand it, all I would have to do (I think) is to remove the 7.040 crystals, order the proper 17 meter ones, and add the low pass filter configuration, as explained in the final section for a transmitter, other than the NS-40 (option 1). Am I correct in this assumption?

Thanks,

73,

Brian

On 3/14/2013 12:56 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:

>
>
> Jim:
>
> Radio Shack has this - a "MPS 2222A"
>
>
> MPS2222A Transistor
> <http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062608>
>
> Model: MPS2222A | Catalog #: 276-2009
>
>
> MPS2222A Transistor
> <http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062608>
>
> Price:
> $1.49
>
> (3 reviews)
>
>
> Designed for high-speed, medium-power switching and general-purpose
> amplifier applications.
>
> Will this work?

Yes, but you are paying far more than it should cost. Those are about
$.05 from Mouser. Maybe you should order 25 PN2222A from Mouser and
have them ship the parts 1st class mail. Won't cost a whole lot more
than buying a few of them from RS, and you would have a good start on
spare parts in your junk box.

>
> Otherwise, they show a NPN - 2N-222.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian

72,

Jim, K8IQY

On 3/14/2013 3:43 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:

>
>
>
> --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> >
> > On 3/14/2013 11:31 AM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge jim.k8iqy@ wrote:
> > > >
> > > > On 3/14/2013 8:59 AM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge jim.k8iqy@ wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > On 3/13/2013 5:57 PM, brian_w5ye wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > One more question ...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > When you do test 2, is the L5 pad used the "lower one", next
> > > to the
> > > > > > > "Q3" lettering?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Yes, that is the correct pad.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Manual says the "L5 pad nearest C2" ... actually it
> > > > > > > looks like an even distance from C2 to either pad on L5 ... I
> > > > > used the
> > > > > > > lower pad for TEST 2 ..
> > > > > >
> > > > > > OK, that is the correct pad. Please carefully measure the
> emitter,
> > > > > > base, and collector pads of Q2 with respect to ground with
> power
> > > > > > applied. From that we can tell if Q2 is properly biased and
> > > should be
> > > > > > working. The collector should be at the supply voltage, the
> base at
> > > > > > 1/2 the supply voltage, and the emitter about 0.7 volts less
> > > than the
> > > > > > base.
> > > > > >
> > > > > very little voltage on collector - about .1 volt .. I think I
> must
> > > > > have shorted something somewhere along the way ... should I
> > > extract Q2
> > > > > ... any others (Q1)? etc ...???
> > > > >
> > > > > Brian
> > > >
> > > > Brian,
> > > >
> > > > I guess at this point I'd replace both Q1 and Q2. Cut off the
> > > > Transistor leads as close to the body as you can and remove the
> leads
> > > > one at a time. That will minimize any damage to the PCB.
> > > >
> > > > 72 and Good Luck,
> > > >
> > > > Jim, K8IQY
> > > >
> > >
> > > OK, will do ... do you have any suggestion where I should order them?
> > > Or is maybe Radio Shack a good option?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Brian
> > >
> >
> > Brian,
> >
> > Radio Shack is probably OK, but they will be expensive there. If they
> > don't have PN2222A devices, a 2N3904 will work just as well and you
> > may be able to find a pack containing that type or something
> equivalent.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
>
> Jim:
>
> I think I am back in business ... installed new Q1, and got 4+ vdc ...
> then installed new Q2, and got 12.5 on collector, and about 4.1 on the
> emitter, and 4.6 on the base ...
>
> how does that sound ??? I guess I can proceed on ???

Yes, you are good to go Brian. Happy building.....

72,

Jim, K8IQY

Jim is absolutely right about stocking your junkbox. My advice is to get on eBay and buy 100 each PN2222, 2N3904, and 2N6906 from one of the Chinese Sellers. Usually less than $4 per 100 and free shipping. Also pick up an assortment of 78Lxx voltage regulators. Search for "150pcs Voltage Regulator" for one of the 10 value sets with 5v, 6v, 8v, 9v etc. May cost you $15 but you will be set for a long time... Before you know it you will be buying resistor and capacitor assortments and then you will be home brewing with the best of the guys...

Also - the best price I have seen on phenolic perf boards for prototyping - search for "7x9cm PCB Blank Circuit Board" $4.12 for 10 pieces (which includes shipping). You can point-to-point wire on these things and IMHO it is easier than Manhattan. Plus with multiple boards all the same size it is easy to build something in sections and package the collection of parts for a receiver or transmitter. (I use 30 ga kynar covered "wire wrap wire" for connecing bits on the back if the component leads aren't long enough.

--- In savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> Yes, but you are paying far more than it should cost. Those are about
> $.05 from Mouser. Maybe you should order 25 PN2222A from Mouser and
> have them ship the parts 1st class mail. Won't cost a whole lot more
> than buying a few of them from RS, and you would have a good start on
> spare parts in your junk box.
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

On 12/24/2013 2:50 PM, Rich Fowler wrote:

> I did something wrong in the forward to Jim....Jim any recommendation?
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 22, 2013 at 6:36 PM, Julian Silverton <jss229@talktalk.net
> jss229@talktalk.net>> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I am interested in adapting this for the SSB only portion of the
> 14 Mhz band, which in the UK is 14.3 - 14.35 Mhz.
> What are the suggested xtal frequencies and inductors needed?
> Thanks,
> Jules
>
>

Hi Jules,

Sorry for the delay in answering. Still catching up on email from a 5
day power/internet outage last week.

My suggestion is to find some standard computer crystals on either
14.318 MHz or 14.3359 MHz. These would allow you to operate on a
couple sections of the band, especially, if you put sockets on SAVXO
board so that you can easily change crystals. There are some notes on
the SAVXO Yahoo group web pages on how some hams have implemented
"plug in" crystal setups. As for the inductor to use, I can't tell
you. You'll have to do that part by experimentation, since the needed
inductor is tied to the characteristics of the the crystal(s) used and
how much band coverage you can get out of a set before the VXO stops
oscillating.

72 and keep us posted on you progress,

Jim, K8IQY

A quick question to the group....

The build manual describes that when using the SAVXO to drive the NS-40 you must connect the power connections from VXP2 to the 12+ volt power supply point of the NS-40. But then it states to connect VXP1 to the "hot" side of the Key on the NS-40.

My question is why to the 'hot' side of the key? Why not connect VXP1 to the negative side of the power supply at the NS-40?

Thanks

Bill

KK6WLS

On 1/7/2014 12:12 PM, kk6wls@gmail.com wrote:

>
>
> A quick question to the group....
>
> The build manual describes that when using the SAVXO to drive the
> NS-40 you must connect the power connections from VXP2 to the 12+ volt
> power supply point of the NS-40.

That is incorrect and might well cause serious damage to the SAVXO,
since the power to it will be hooked up in reverse. VXP1 is connected
to the same + voltage that is being used to supply the NS-40.

But then it states to connect VXP1 to

> the "hot" side of the Key on the NS-40.

VXP2 is connected to "hot side" of the key in the NS-40.

>
> My question is why to the 'hot' side of the key? Why not connect VXP1
> to the negative side of the power supply at the NS-40?

If VXP2 (which is the ground pin of the SAVXO) is connected to the
negative lead of the NS-40 supply, the SAVXO will be putting out a
continuous signal. We want it to be keyed along with the NS-40,
otherwise, the SAVXO is running during receive, an unwanted situation.
Therefore, the SAVXO ground is connected to the "hot" key lead,
which is grounded when the system is keyed, allowing the NS-40 to be
keyed and the SAVXO to also be keyed.

>
> Thanks

You are welcome.

>
> Bill
>
> KK6WLS

Jim, K8IQY

On 4/28/2014 3:17 AM, Hansky@t-online.de wrote:

> Hello Jim,

Good morning Karsten,

>
> what do you think, is it possible to connect the SAVXO to the old Ameco AC-1tube transmitter?

Probably OK, since it will be driving the grid of the 6V6 and is
isolated via capacitors in the SAVXO output. You are going to have to
figure out how to key the SAVXO though, as you can't attach it to the
key line from the AC-1, since that is the cathode of the 6V6, and has
some serious voltage on it, much more than the SAVXO can handle.

If yes is it necessary to change part values or the transformer?

That is the unknown. I'd try it stock first, and if that doesn't
work, change the output as it would be for driving the NS-40 MOSFET
transmitter. If that doesn't work, then you'll have to do some
experimenting to see what makes the 6V6 happy with the available drive
level.

>
> 73

72 and be careful, high voltages are present.

Jim, K8IQY

On 5/9/2014 4:20 PM, Karsten Hansky wrote:

> Hi Jim,

Hi Karsten,

>
> i built the AC-1 clone this week. Today I made a quick test with the
> SAVXO.
>
> With the standard transformer output I can drive the 6V6 up to 5W
> output.

OK, that's not too bad I would think.

But I have to set the SAVXO to maximum power and it has some

> drift in frequency when it gets warm. I will try with a 1:4
> transformer between the SAVXO and the AC-1. Maybe I can drive the 6V6
> with reduced power.

That might work also. Before doing, I'd suggest changing the output
filter C3, L3, C4 into a pi-network impedance step up section. For a
Q=6, the component values would be C3 = 68pF, L3 = 12uH, and C4 =
100pF. The T1 transformer would be the standard 4TP-4TS
configuration. Also, I've found that the SAVXO can be improved by
changing the following components, R6 = 22K needed for keying
stability, R11 changed to 100 Ohms, C9 changed to 47pF, R10 changed to
470 Ohm, C2 changed to 47pF, and R9 changed to 18 Ohms. Those values
will produce more output with less heating and is also more stable.

>
> I am optimistic to find a good setup. My SAVXO runs from 7.028 to
> 7.038. Thats much better than a fixed frequency with a crystal.

You might be able to eeek a bit more frequency range out of it by
changing C5 to something like 22pF or 27pF, for a bit less loading on
the crystals.

> 73
>
> Karsten - DL3HRT

72 and thanks for the update on your project,

Jim, K8IQY

On 8/12/2014 8:54 AM, Graham Bloor wrote:

> Hi Jim took the Vxo to the club and tested it on their gear , output
> and voltages OK
> but the freq. swing is only 1.7 KHz : 7.042.3 to 7.043.8
> ? At home coupled it
> to Ns40 / Magicbox and SS40ht and got 5 Watts Output.
> Can I change the crystals to 7.030 which is our Qrp freq
> ? 7.040 is very noisey
> here.
> regards Graham G3UD

Graham,

Yes, you can change the crystal set to 7.030 MHz. You may have to
fiddle with the value of the inductor in series with the crystal set
to get the frequency range where you want it to be.

I can't comment on the frequency swing, as I have not built a unit
using 7+ MHz crystals. I'll cc this reply to the SAVXO group and
perhaps others can comment on what they are getting.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

I'd like to change the frequency range to be centered on 7055 +-4 Khz or from 7050 to 7056. Should I order 7050 rocks? Any changes in other components?

I just received the kit with the standard 40m rocks. Will use DIP pins to allow changing the rocks, so I'll get it working on 7040 first.

Great kit!

Clark/WU4B

Clark, you may be able to add a component to get the 7050, but I would just order the crystal(s).

Expanded Spectrum Systems Contact Page



				Expanded Spectrum Systems Contact Page Home Building a small transmitter? Something QRP that fits in an old pen? The 3x8 mm cylindrical crystals make that project easier than ever.

				View on www.expandedspec...	Preview by Yahoo

The desired frequencies are available.

72,

Rich K8MEG

From: "clarkmacaulay@yahoo.com [savxok8iqy]"
To: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 1, 2015 10:59 AM
Subject: [savxok8iqy] SKCC 40m Operation

I'd like to change the frequency range to be centered on 7055 +-4 Khz or from 7050 to 7056. Should I order 7050 rocks? Any changes in other components?

I just received the kit with the standard 40m rocks. Will use DIP pins to allow changing the rocks, so I'll get it working on 7040 first.

Great kit!

Clark/WU4B

I can't seem to locate the SIP pins to put in the XTAL and other places. Last time (2 years) I found a good supply but eBay doesn't have them and Mouser is way too expensive. I see the pins themselves can be got for about .30 each.

Anybody have another source? I may be using the wrong search string on eBay 'cause all it get are DIP sockets that need to be cut up.

72,

Clark/WU4B

Try searching for sip pins.

Randall

N0UTJ

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2055119.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsip+pins.TRS0&_nkw=sip+pins&_sacat=0

From: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 5:29 PM
To: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [savxok8iqy] Pins Mod

Anybody have another source? I may be using the wrong search string on eBay 'cause all it get are DIP sockets that need to be cut up.

72,

Clark/WU4B

Hi Wayne,

It has been a few years since I have had to deal with troubleshooting the SAVXO. However, I have some notes and saved emails that might get us going.

You didn't mention your application. Is it with the NS-40?

Here's a paste from an email that I found referring to the manual.

> Option 1: install C3 which is
> 470pf and C4 which is 220pf and L3 1.2uh.
>
> However, Option 2: Install C3 47pf C4 220 ohm resistor L3 is a jumper.
> This is the configuration you'd use with the NS-40.
>
> Just follow the instructions component location and value according to
> the install procedure. The parts list has an (*) next to C3 and 220
> ohm resistor. The assembly manual should be SAVXO-V1.0B

I didn't search the reflector, but I hope this gets us going.

Also didn't look at the schematic...

FYI, Jim K8IQY, is unavailable for help for the time being.

Hope this is some help. Let me know if you need more help.

I trust all the parts were there for you, too, since I didn't check prior to sending.

72 and God Bless,

Rich K8MEG

From: "wayne.dillon@gmail.com [savxok8iqy]"
To: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:44 AM
Subject: [savxok8iqy] No frequency shift

Hi folks,

Getting a bit of a late start on this project so,,, at testing stage 1 and it won shift frequency when the tuning pot is turned, Stays on 7.048 Mhz. also when the trimpot is turned fully clockwise frequency goes down to 4.7 Mhz. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks and blessings to all de Wayne - NQ0RP

OK folks, I found the issue, wrong inductor mounted, changed it for the correct value and all works as it should.

Blessings all de Wayne - NQ0RP

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:44 AM, wayne.dillon@gmail.com [savxok8iqy] <savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hi folks,
Getting a bit of a late start on this project so,,, at testing stage 1 and it won shift frequency when the tuning pot is turned, Stays on 7.048 Mhz. also when the trimpot is turned fully clockwise frequency goes down to 4.7 Mhz. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks and blessings to all de Wayne - NQ0RP

--

QRP - EFFICIENCY AND SKILL, NOT POWER.

I'm British by birth but American by CHOICE!

Jesus came to pay a debt He didn't owe because we owe a debt we cannot pay...

The Lord bless you and keep you
The Lord make His face shine upon you, and be gracious unto you
The Lord lift up his contenance upon you and give you peace.

God Bless from Wayne Dillon - NQ0RP

Joshua 24:14-15
2 Cor 5:17
1 Jn 2:17

http://www.4sqrp.com/index.php

Membership Chairman - 4SQRP Group
4SQRP 40m NCS
4SQRP #95
FISTS 17184
FPQRP #342 (Flying Pigs QRP Club)
G-QRP-11504

NAQCC # 0759
QRP-ARCI #11505
SKCC #1155T
SOC #848
30MDG#1176

NEQRP #693
GORC #192
DMC (Digital Modes Club) # 06686
Zombie# 1186

Yea! Good snag

72 WAØITP I love this radio stuff. www.wa0itp.com www.4sqrp.com

On 1/13/2017 10:31 AM, Wayne Dillon wayne.dillon@gmail.com [savxok8iqy] wrote:

OK folks, I found the issue, wrong inductor mounted, changed it for the correct value and all works as it should.

Blessings all de Wayne - NQ0RP

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:44 AM, wayne.dillon@gmail.com [savxok8iqy] <savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hi folks,

Getting a bit of a late start on this project so,,, at testing stage 1 and it won shift frequency when the tuning pot is turned, Stays on 7.048 Mhz. also when the trimpot is turned fully clockwise frequency goes down to 4.7 Mhz. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks and blessings to all de Wayne - NQ0RP

--

QRP - EFFICIENCY AND SKILL, NOT POWER.

I'm British by birth but American by CHOICE!

Jesus came to pay a debt He didn't owe because we owe a debt we cannot pay...

The Lord bless you and keep you
The Lord make His face shine upon you, and be gracious unto you
The Lord lift up his contenance upon you and give you peace.

God Bless from Wayne Dillon - NQ0RP

Joshua 24:14-15
2 Cor 5:17
1 Jn 2:17

http://www.4sqrp.com/index.php

Membership Chairman - 4SQRP Group

4SQRP 40m NCS
4SQRP #95

FISTS 17184

FPQRP #342 (Flying Pigs QRP Club)

G-QRP-11504

NAQCC # 0759
QRP-ARCI #11505
SKCC #1155T

SOC #848
30MDG#1176

NEQRP #693

GORC #192

DMC (Digital Modes Club) # 06686

Zombie# 1186

Thanks for the update!!! GL

From: "Wayne Dillon wayne.dillon@gmail.com [savxok8iqy]"
To: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: [savxok8iqy] No frequency shift

OK folks, I found the issue, wrong inductor mounted, changed it for the correct value and all works as it should.

Blessings all de Wayne - NQ0RP

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 8:44 AM, wayne.dillon@gmail.com [savxok8iqy] <savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hi folks,
Getting a bit of a late start on this project so,,, at testing stage 1 and it won shift frequency when the tuning pot is turned, Stays on 7.048 Mhz. also when the trimpot is turned fully clockwise frequency goes down to 4.7 Mhz. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks and blessings to all de Wayne - NQ0RP

QRP - EFFICIENCY AND SKILL, NOT POWER.

I'm British by birth but American by CHOICE!

Jesus came to pay a debt He didn't owe because we owe a debt we cannot pay...

The Lord bless you and keep you
The Lord make His face shine upon you, and be gracious unto you
The Lord lift up his contenance upon you and give you peace.

God Bless from Wayne Dillon - NQ0RP

Joshua 24:14-15
2 Cor 5:17
1 Jn 2:17

http://www.4sqrp.com/index.php

Membership Chairman - 4SQRP Group

4SQRP 40m NCS
4SQRP #95

FISTS 17184

FPQRP #342 (Flying Pigs QRP Club)

G-QRP-11504

NAQCC # 0759
QRP-ARCI #11505
SKCC #1155T

SOC #848
30MDG#1176

NEQRP #693

GORC #192

DMC (Digital Modes Club) # 06686

Zombie# 1186

Hi Rich,

Thanks for the response, turned out to be me fitting the wrong inductor, changed to the correct component and all's well.

Thanks again es Blessings

Wayne - NQ0RP

P.S. Yeah, all the parts were there - no worries.

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 10:34 AM, Rich Fowler k8meg@yahoo.com [savxok8iqy] <savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hi Wayne,

It has been a few years since I have had to deal with troubleshooting the SAVXO. However, I have some notes and saved emails that might get us going.

You didn't mention your application. Is it with the NS-40?

Here's a paste from an email that I found referring to the manual.

> Option 1: install C3 which is
> 470pf and C4 which is 220pf and L3 1.2uh.
>
> However, Option 2: Install C3 47pf C4 220 ohm resistor L3 is a jumper.
> This is the configuration you'd use with the NS-40.
>
> Just follow the instructions component location and value according to
> the install procedure. The parts list has an (*) next to C3 and 220
> ohm resistor. The assembly manual should be SAVXO-V1.0B
I didn't search the reflector, but I hope this gets us going.
Also didn't look at the schematic...

FYI, Jim K8IQY, is unavailable for help for the time being.

Hope this is some help. Let me know if you need more help.
I trust all the parts were there for you, too, since I didn't check prior to sending.

72 and God Bless,

Rich K8MEG

From: "wayne.dillon@gmail.com [savxok8iqy]" <savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com>
To: savxok8iqy@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2017 9:44 AM
Subject: [savxok8iqy] No frequency shift

Hi folks,
Getting a bit of a late start on this project so,,, at testing stage 1 and it won shift frequency when the tuning pot is turned, Stays on 7.048 Mhz. also when the trimpot is turned fully clockwise frequency goes down to 4.7 Mhz. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks and blessings to all de Wayne - NQ0RP

--

QRP - EFFICIENCY AND SKILL, NOT POWER.

I'm British by birth but American by CHOICE!

Jesus came to pay a debt He didn't owe because we owe a debt we cannot pay...

The Lord bless you and keep you
The Lord make His face shine upon you, and be gracious unto you
The Lord lift up his contenance upon you and give you peace.

God Bless from Wayne Dillon - NQ0RP

Joshua 24:14-15
2 Cor 5:17
1 Jn 2:17

http://www.4sqrp.com/index.php

Membership Chairman - 4SQRP Group
4SQRP 40m NCS
4SQRP #95
FISTS 17184
FPQRP #342 (Flying Pigs QRP Club)
G-QRP-11504

NAQCC # 0759
QRP-ARCI #11505
SKCC #1155T
SOC #848
30MDG#1176

NEQRP #693
GORC #192
DMC (Digital Modes Club) # 06686
Zombie# 1186

On 10/28/2019 9:23 AM, mbabineau@protonmail.com [NorCal_2n2] wrote:

Dave, no I have not heard any response and there have been some recent developments with Groups.io that I think have seal the fate of this group and others.

When I started investigating the migration to Groups.io I discovered that they recently made changes to the

migration process which now mandates that to transfer an existing group, the newly created group on

Groups.io must first be upgrade from the default BASIC (free) group to a premium group.The group may be downgraded back to BASIC after one year so it becomes a one time cost of $110 USD. Just this morning I discovered that price has now been increased to $220 USD.

So unless someone knows how to get in touch with the group owner and we have a phantom benefactor,

I doubt very much, given the amount of traffic/interest in this group, that we will be able to raise $220 USD

via donation from members.

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB

All,

I sent an email to Yahoo several weeks ago to provide a download link for acquiring all of the infor for the groups where I am an owner. The link they provided was useless! Essentially, they restored all of the files and photos of my groups (5 of them) but no mechanism to gather all of the info from each group easily. The option is for me to copy each posting, file, and photo manually and download them to my computer. As I told Yahoo in a follow up email, I'm 76 and won't live long enough to do it their way. -:(

I also sent an email to Dean Davis, N7XG, the owner of the NorCal_2N2 group but he hasn't responded. I came across some info on the internet that he might now be in Alaska, with a different call. I can't confirm that his business, Alpine Soft is still going at his old QTH in Salem, Oregon. So that's another dead end so far.

My plan is to keep pushing Yahoo for some assistance for getting the files from the groups that I own, but not holding my breath that they will actually do anything useful.

That's the latest from my end.

72 and will keep you all posted if something good happens,

Jim, K8IQY