1|1|2001-08-14 12:05:21|John Wagner|testing||
2|2|2001-08-14 12:12:41|John Wagner|test agn...||
3|3|2001-08-14 12:36:08|Brian|howdy|Hi gang!
Let's blow some transistors!!
Anyone doing a group buy on the metal ones and can I borrow a T50-7 from
someone?
73
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
|
4|3|2001-08-14 12:48:23|John Wagner|Re: howdy|Brian,
I can spare a few+ T50-7's, but don't have enough to offer to everyone.
Perhaps there are enough folks that bought the Norcal Toroid kit that we
can muster up enough for the group.
So I'm hereby pledging 5 T50-7 toroids for the group.
73 de John, N1QO
Brian wrote:
>
> Hi gang!
>
> Let's blow some transistors!!
>
> Anyone doing a group buy on the metal ones and can I borrow a T50-7 from
> someone?
>
> 73
>
> ========================================
> KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
> QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
> FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
> TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
> INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
> SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
> ========================================
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comPut me down for one at least.
thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] howdy
> Brian,
>
> I can spare a few+ T50-7's, but don't have enough to offer to everyone.
> Perhaps there are enough folks that bought the Norcal Toroid kit that we
> can muster up enough for the group.
>
> So I'm hereby pledging 5 T50-7 toroids for the group.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> Brian wrote:
> >
> > Hi gang!
> >
> > Let's blow some transistors!!
> >
> > Anyone doing a group buy on the metal ones and can I borrow a T50-7 from
> > someone?
> >
> > 73
> >
> > ========================================
> > KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
> > QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
> > FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
> > TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
> > INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
> > SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
> > ========================================
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Enter your vote today! A new poll has been created for the
2n2-40 group:
When do you plan on completing your
2n2/40?
o ASAP!
o Within one month
o Wihing two months
o Before 1/2002
o Sometime before next summer
To vote, please visit the following web page:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/polls Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are
not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the Yahoo! Groups
web site listed above.
Thanks!
TEST MESSAGE
|
8|8|2001-08-14 18:32:45|kb2nto@yahoo.com|Hello all|Hi
This is my first try at Manhattan constuction. Been reading about the
process and looking at pictures, looks like fun. Was going to go it
alone but this opportunity is just great...73...Ed
|
9|9|2001-08-14 18:37:15|AD6WE@hotmail.com|Hello|I also was interested in this transceiver...hesitant to try Manhattan
Construction, but thought I'd spring for the NJQRP Manhattan Starter
Package...what the heck, only ten bucks...now I got a project to get
started on!
What size boxes are people thinking of putting these things in? How
about one Altoids tin for each stage? (Joke)
Del, AD6WE
|
10|9|2001-08-14 18:49:22|John Wagner|Re: Hello|I'm going to go with the recommended size, which I believe is 5x7. I'm
not real good at finish carpentry though, so I may actually spring for a
case for this puppy.
I don't know about you guys, but I'm itchin' to get started. I really
like the idea of a the variable width filter - this is sort of a
cadillac of QRP homebrew rig!
73 de John, N1QO
AD6WE@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> I also was interested in this transceiver...hesitant to try Manhattan
> Construction, but thought I'd spring for the NJQRP Manhattan Starter
> Package...what the heck, only ten bucks...now I got a project to get
> started on!
>
> What size boxes are people thinking of putting these things in? How
> about one Altoids tin for each stage? (Joke)
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com2n2er's,
I'd like to get started on finding/ordering the hard to find parts, in
particular the tuning diodes. However, I think we should wait a few days
to see if we pick up any straglers that want to join us. I'm going to
announce the formation of this group on QRP-L one more time this
evening.
Let's set a date of Monday, Aug 20 to start up the bulk-buy engine
turning.
We already have some parts available;
One person has pledged 250 PN2222A's to the project. He will announce
here in a couple of days. We decided that 20 a piece would be a good
starting point. I've offered an additional 50 PN2222A's if that isn't
enough.
I've got 5 T50-7 toroids to offer. One is already spoken for. The other
toroids appear to be easily obtainable. If you've got the Norcal Toroid
kit, you've got the T50-7's - if you have any extra, please offer them
to group if at all possible.
Thanks all,
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comOK, I am ready to blow transistors too!!! I plan on mounting mine in
a HB (of course) cabinet made of 1 by "whatever" with formica front
and rear panels. I have a digital camera, so when I get to that point
I will take some pics for the group.
Are the metal 2n2's the 2N2222AMS with the TO-18 case? If so, Digikey
has them for $45 a hundred. I guess I could probably order about a
hundred of them on Monday.
Don't need any "plastic" ones tho, got a good deal on some earlier :)
Looking forward to the fun!!!
Dennis
|
13|13|2001-08-15 02:51:01|wb0wao@yahoo.com|Ooops!!|Just checked the Digikey home page, they are out of stock of the TO-18
cased 2n2222's!!!! Mouser has them (and cheaper too!), so I could
order from them if that is the one that is required (I am pretty sure
it is).
Dennis
|
14|12|2001-08-15 08:16:12|Mike Malone|Re: Hi|Lemme check with Tanner here local. I only pay 30 cents buying em 1 at a
time! It will be real cool if you guys with digi cams will post your efforts
to inspire others! I am on the varactor hunt and should have answers
tommorow. John, how many builders are we buying for?
KD5KXF
----- Original Message -----
From: <wb0wao@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 12:45 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Hi
> OK, I am ready to blow transistors too!!! I plan on mounting mine in
> a HB (of course) cabinet made of 1 by "whatever" with formica front
> and rear panels. I have a digital camera, so when I get to that point
> I will take some pics for the group.
>
> Are the metal 2n2's the 2N2222AMS with the TO-18 case? If so, Digikey
> has them for $45 a hundred. I guess I could probably order about a
> hundred of them on Monday.
>
> Don't need any "plastic" ones tho, got a good deal on some earlier :)
>
> Looking forward to the fun!!!
>
> Dennis
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
At 06:50 AM 8/15/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Just checked the Digikey home page, they are out of stock of the TO-18
>cased 2n2222's!!!! Mouser has them (and cheaper too!), so I could
>order from them if that is the one that is required (I am pretty sure
>it is).
>
>Dennis
Dennis,
Hosfelt Electronics his 2N2222A transistors for $ .22 each in
quantities of 100. They will also probably be the source for
the varicap diodes, MV1662, since MV2115 and MVAM108/109 are
about extinct.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
There are 35 members of the Yahoo group at the moment. I don't think
that reflects the number of actual builders though (some folks have told
me they've already built one but will help us out with questions, etc...
much appreaciated!). I would guess that we'll see 20 or so who need to
order parts.
Only way to know for sure is when we order.
73 de John, N1QO
Mike Malone wrote:
>
> Lemme check with Tanner here local. I only pay 30 cents buying em 1 at a
> time! It will be real cool if you guys with digi cams will post your efforts
> to inspire others! I am on the varactor hunt and should have answers
> tommorow. John, how many builders are we buying for?
> KD5KXF
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <wb0wao@yahoo.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 12:45 AM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Hi
>
> > OK, I am ready to blow transistors too!!! I plan on mounting mine in
> > a HB (of course) cabinet made of 1 by "whatever" with formica front
> > and rear panels. I have a digital camera, so when I get to that point
> > I will take some pics for the group.
> >
> > Are the metal 2n2's the 2N2222AMS with the TO-18 case? If so, Digikey
> > has them for $45 a hundred. I guess I could probably order about a
> > hundred of them on Monday.
> >
> > Don't need any "plastic" ones tho, got a good deal on some earlier :)
> >
> > Looking forward to the fun!!!
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI'm one that ready to build!
--Paul
|
18|18|2001-08-15 09:41:55|Brian|Manhattan Tips|I've done a lot of building using the Manhattan and dead bug style. Some of
my projects even worked! Actually, most of them worked the first time so
it's no big deal. I do make the following suggestions:
Get a GOOD light to work under. I hate florescent light as the flicker makes
me nervous for some reason. I have one of those lit magnifying glasses on
the swing away arm. It's great.
Get some super glue GEL to hold your pads down with. I used to use hot glue
but lets see...hot glue....hot soldering iron...well you see how that turned
out.
Great tips from the masters of Manhattan:
http://www.qsl.net/k8iqy/tips.html http://www.qsl.net/k7qo/manhat.html Fine examples of ugly construction:
http://www.fpqrp.com/pigg20/MPIX/lesson42.jpg <-- Freq Counter - W8DIZ
http://www.qsl.net/aa3sj/Pages/MP20-PLL.html <--- PLL Circuit AA3SJ
http://thecabal.home.mindspring.com/nt7s/MP20/xcvr/ <--- MP20 Transceiver
NT7S
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
Like many, I have been reluctant to try Manhattan.....count me in
though. This is a great opportunity.
Ed
N4EJG
--- In 2n2-40@y..., wa0rse@q... wrote:
> I'm one that ready to build!
> --Paul
Hello group,
I'm ready to try Manhattan for the first time. I just
signed on today.
73
Mike Broga, W9QS
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/Name: Reggie Pollard
Email:
acpcomp@acpsuperstore.com Phone: 714-558-8822
Fax: 714-558-1603
Company: ACP Components, Inc.
Mailing Address: 1317 E. Edinger Ave.
Santa Ana, CA 92705
This place is showing 100 MVAM109's in stock on USBID.com
Someone call them and see how much they want.
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
2n2er's,
If you are a Yahoo member, you can access our groups website at;
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40. There is a links page at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/links/ which currently only
features two links. I'm pretty sure any member can add more. We also
have a files and a photo area - you are encouraged to use both, or to
put up photos of your progress on your own website and announce to the
group where it is.
We've picked up a number of new folks, so I'm going to repeat some stuff
I sent earlier.
Parts: We have some folks looking into tuning diodes. Someone has
pledged 250 P2N2222a's and I've offered 50. Someone is looking into the
metal 2n2222's. I've offered 5 T50-7's, two of them are spoken for. If
you have the Norcal Toroid Kit, you have T50-7's - if you have any
extra, please offer them here. There is something in the works for
Xtal's, I'll let you guys know what's up with that soon.
Please, please, please only ask for the parts (especially the free ones)
if you're actually going to build. I realize priorities change and free
time to build is hard to come by. My goal here is to get as many of us
on the air with a homebrew 2N2/40 as possible.
Copper board: NJQRP club sells a "Manhattan Starter Kit" for something
like $10 - it's a deal. Their site is at
http://www.njqrp.org/ . The kit
includes a book about Manhattan building.
Copper pads: If you have a large supply of copper manhattan pads and
want to offer them here, please do. A number of us (me included) are
running low. I made my last batch with a borrowed punch and will have to
borrow it again to build this radio. I found punching out pads to be a
time consuming process.
A word on sharing/selling: If you want to offer stuff for free, by all
means do. If you want to make a little money to cover your costs, that's
fair too. Some folks make a little profit and donate it to charity,
that's great. Whatever works for you. Nobody is going to get rich
selling stuff to QRPer's, let's remember that. ;)
I will mention this one more time; Doug, KI6DS sent this to the QRP-L
> Guys if you are interested in building the 2N2/40 from the QRPp article,
> (actually a whole issue devoted to one subject), you can order a copy of the
> issue from Paul Harden, NA5N, at Quicksilver Printing, PO Box 757, Socorro,
> NM 87801 for $12 postpaid. Please enclose a self addressed mailing label
> and indicate that you are ordering the 2N2/40 Special Issue of QRPp.
There are a number of people who joined who have already built 2n2/40's
- welcome to the list and thank you for offering assistance, it's most
appreciated.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThere are 102 of em and they asked $1 each. I have em down to .50 each. They
are house marked. Should we buy em? Lemme know guys, I will snagem if you
want.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian" <brian@iquest.net>
To: "2N2" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 12:00 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
> Name: Reggie Pollard
> Email: acpcomp@acpsuperstore.com
> Phone: 714-558-8822
> Fax: 714-558-1603
> Company: ACP Components, Inc.
> Mailing Address: 1317 E. Edinger Ave.
> Santa Ana, CA 92705
>
> This place is showing 100 MVAM109's in stock on USBID.com
>
> Someone call them and see how much they want.
>
>
> ========================================
> KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
> QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
> FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
> TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
> INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
> SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
> ========================================
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
50 cents each is a good deal!
I've seen them as high as $2.35
EACH
Everyone needs one or two. Count me in.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Malone" <mmalone@worldlogon.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
> There are 102 of em and they asked $1 each. I have em down to .50 each.
They
> are house marked. Should we buy em? Lemme know guys, I will snagem if
you
> want.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian" <brian@iquest.net>
> To: "2N2" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 12:00 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
>
>
> > Name: Reggie Pollard
> > Email: acpcomp@acpsuperstore.com
> > Phone: 714-558-8822
> > Fax: 714-558-1603
> > Company: ACP Components, Inc.
> > Mailing Address: 1317 E. Edinger Ave.
> > Santa Ana, CA 92705
> >
> > This place is showing 100 MVAM109's in stock on USBID.com
> >
> > Someone call them and see how much they want.
> >
> >
> > ========================================
> > KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
> > QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
> > FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
> > TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
> > INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
> > SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
> > ========================================
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Count me in as well....
Ed
N4EJG
>
> 50 cents each is a good deal!
>
> I've seen them as high as $2.35
>
> EACH
>
> Everyone needs one or two. Count me in.
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Count me in also.
73
Mike, W9QS
--- Mike Malone <
mmalone@worldlogon.com> wrote:
> There are 102 of em and they asked $1 each. I have
> em down to .50 each. They
> are house marked. Should we buy em? Lemme know
> guys, I will snagem if you
> want.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/Ok, I bulk purchased em all and I will get back to you soon as they arrive
and I will sell em off at cost here first then make available to my Flying
Pig brothers and sisters. They were .50 each and I got 102 of em on way.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian" <brian@iquest.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
> 50 cents each is a good deal!
>
> I've seen them as high as $2.35
>
> EACH
>
> Everyone needs one or two. Count me in.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Malone" <mmalone@worldlogon.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 1:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
>
>
> > There are 102 of em and they asked $1 each. I have em down to .50 each.
> They
> > are house marked. Should we buy em? Lemme know guys, I will snagem if
> you
> > want.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Brian" <brian@iquest.net>
> > To: "2N2" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 12:00 PM
> > Subject: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
> >
> >
> > > Name: Reggie Pollard
> > > Email: acpcomp@acpsuperstore.com
> > > Phone: 714-558-8822
> > > Fax: 714-558-1603
> > > Company: ACP Components, Inc.
> > > Mailing Address: 1317 E. Edinger Ave.
> > > Santa Ana, CA 92705
> > >
> > > This place is showing 100 MVAM109's in stock on USBID.com
> > >
> > > Someone call them and see how much they want.
> > >
> > >
> > > ========================================
> > > KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
> > > QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
> > > FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
> > > TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
> > > INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
> > > SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
> > > ========================================
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I could use the T50 7 toroid let me know how much for shipping....73,,,Ed
|
29|22|2001-08-15 15:04:38|macstein@aol.com|Re: administravia|John,
My buddy Diz, W8DIZ of Flying pig and MP-20 fame, has TONS of toroids. I will copy this to him and make a request. How many do we need, perhaps I'll cover the cost of these. See below.
Also, I initially got my crystals from Dan's Small Parts. Jim Kortge sent me a MATCHED set and it was MUCHO better! This makes a much better radio. This would be a chore, but worth the effort!
DIZ!!! Can you help with this?
> If you have the Norcal Toroid Kit, you have T50-7's -
> if you have any extra, please offer them here.
-MAC-
AF4PS
FP -51
He doesn't stock the T50-7
----- Original Message -----
From: <macstein@aol.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] administravia
> John,
>
> My buddy Diz, W8DIZ of Flying pig and MP-20 fame, has TONS of toroids. I
will copy this to him and make a request. How many do we need, perhaps I'll
cover the cost of these. See below.
>
> Also, I initially got my crystals from Dan's Small Parts. Jim Kortge sent
me a MATCHED set and it was MUCHO better! This makes a much better radio.
This would be a chore, but worth the effort!
>
> DIZ!!! Can you help with this?
>
> > If you have the Norcal Toroid Kit, you have T50-7's -
> > if you have any extra, please offer them here.
>
> -MAC-
> AF4PS
> FP -51
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
In a message dated Wed, 15 Aug 2001 3:09:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Brian" <
brian@iquest.net> writes:
> He doesn't stock the T50-7
Shudda known you had checked into that. Oh well. Tnx Brian!
-MAC-
AF4PS
Anyone know what the vaule of this finished inductor is supposed to be?
Could we sub a T50-6 with a different number of turns?
----- Original Message -----
From: <macstein@aol.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] administravia
> In a message dated Wed, 15 Aug 2001 3:09:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
"Brian" <brian@iquest.net> writes:
>
> > He doesn't stock the T50-7
>
> Shudda known you had checked into that. Oh well. Tnx Brian!
>
> -MAC-
> AF4PS
Can't help wondering how many in the group might be local?
Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833
DM13av
|
34|33|2001-08-15 15:32:28|edgerhardt@aol.com|Re: Who / where are we all?|Delbert, I suspect we are all scattered about....I am in Miami, EL95vw.....
73
Ed
N4EJG
In a message dated 8/15/01 15:29:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
AD6WE@hotmail.com writes:
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
> 2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
> Fullerton, CA 92833
> DM13av
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
And some of us are in Alaska. I sure wish this was a 2n2-20.
73, Jim
--
Jim Larsen, AL7FS, Anchorage, Alaska
(BP51cc) - 61.101 North, 149.824 West
mailto:
al7fs@arrl.net -
http://www.qsl.net/al7fs/Good buy on the MVAM109's !
As a group, we have to come up with a way of "kitting" all of these parts,
to some extent, or we're going to have a bunch of people sending small sums
of money as well as parts all over the place. My guess is that ALL of us
are going to need MOST of the parts.
Don't know if I have an answer, but just wanted to bring it up for
discussion.
Dick K2JQ
|
37|21|2001-08-15 15:59:39|Mike Malone|Re: MVAM109's|We did some group buys on MH101 and it wasn't too bad but the postage cost
was more... If we were all local it would be one thing. I am open to any
suggestions...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Brummer, K2JQ" <k2jq@bestweb.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
> Good buy on the MVAM109's !
>
> As a group, we have to come up with a way of "kitting" all of these parts,
> to some extent, or we're going to have a bunch of people sending small
sums
> of money as well as parts all over the place. My guess is that ALL of us
> are going to need MOST of the parts.
>
> Don't know if I have an answer, but just wanted to bring it up for
> discussion.
>
> Dick K2JQ
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
Gang -
I just ran across this group while perusing QRP-L.
Building the 2N2-40 has been on my "To Do" list for a while. Having a
group to do it with sounds like geat fun, so count me in as a
definite builder.
Gotta check the parts list and my bit-bins tonight to see if I have
anything useful for the group, and to see what I might need. I know I
don't have any varactors, so please add my name to that list.
I got to hold Jim's original masterpiece in my own little hands at
Pacificon a couple years ago. He certainly set a high standard for us
to strive for!
TNX,
Cam N6GA
|
39|33|2001-08-15 17:48:02|Jim|Re: Who / where are we all?|Jim, W4JBM near Atlanta...
I'm still trying to decide if I really have the time
to bite this off right now...
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/Hi All!
I've subscribed to the list, but I really don't want to be a "member" of
Yahoogroups. Since only members can access the archives, have I missed
any important postings and if so, would someone mind sending it/them my
way?
Nice to have this kind of group effort: the combined creativity is often
way more than I would ever come up with!
73
Ken KG4FGC
|
41|41|2001-08-15 19:24:02|TC Dufresne|Parts for Rig...|I have been looking for these components and it looks like Ocean State
Electronics may have them. I haven't asked yet, but will soon. They are
asking $7 for the MVAM209 and $2 for the MV2115.
Anyone else find 'em cheaper? I haven't actually confirmed them yet.....
BTW, I am looking for 18 .2uF caps. I can't find them anywhere, unless I use
the big fat polyester ones that are HUGE. Is there a smaller one for this
use? What about a .22uF tantalum cap? Would that be appropriate? I wish the
author who made this( very good) website for the 2N20 would be a bit more
specific in his use of caps. Many times it will say ".002uF". Well, does
that mean polyester, or silver mica, or what? I KNOW some values just aren't
normally found, ie, probably not too many 3pF caps are polyesters! I gotta
admit I really don't know the difference between a silver mica, a tantalum,
or whatever. I'm a stupid newbie....
Tom
|
42|21|2001-08-15 19:25:41|TC Dufresne|Re: MVAM109's|I'm in for a few as well!
Thanks
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike broga" <mbroga@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 19:01 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
> Count me in also.
>
> 73
>
> Mike, W9QS
>
> --- Mike Malone <mmalone@worldlogon.com> wrote:
> > There are 102 of em and they asked $1 each. I have
> > em down to .50 each. They
> > are house marked. Should we buy em? Lemme know
> > guys, I will snagem if you
> > want.
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
OOPS! That was supposed to read MVAM109, NOT MVAM209...... You knew what I
meant!
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "TC Dufresne" <tdufresne@neb.rr.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 23:05 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Parts for Rig...
> I have been looking for these components and it looks like Ocean State
> Electronics may have them. I haven't asked yet, but will soon. They are
> asking $7 for the MVAM209 and $2 for the MV2115.
> Anyone else find 'em cheaper? I haven't actually confirmed them yet.....
> BTW, I am looking for 18 .2uF caps. I can't find them anywhere, unless I
use
> the big fat polyester ones that are HUGE. Is there a smaller one for this
> use? What about a .22uF tantalum cap? Would that be appropriate? I wish
the
> author who made this( very good) website for the 2N20 would be a bit more
> specific in his use of caps. Many times it will say ".002uF". Well, does
> that mean polyester, or silver mica, or what? I KNOW some values just
aren't
> normally found, ie, probably not too many 3pF caps are polyesters! I
gotta
> admit I really don't know the difference between a silver mica, a
tantalum,
> or whatever. I'm a stupid newbie....
> Tom
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Paul Harden, NA5N authored an excellent guide to capacitors. It is
available in PDF from at:
http://www.btinternet.com/~g4wif/na5n.pdf - a
must have, IMO.
As for what to use; I always assume (possibly incorrectly) that if the
type isn't specified (i.e. it doesn't say NPO, silver mica or poly) that
I can use anything I can get my hands on.
To address the .2uF's specifically; I don't know. Can someone answer
that question?
Thanks,
73 de John, N1QO
TC Dufresne wrote:
>
> I have been looking for these components and it looks like Ocean State
> Electronics may have them. I haven't asked yet, but will soon. They are
> asking $7 for the MVAM209 and $2 for the MV2115.
> Anyone else find 'em cheaper? I haven't actually confirmed them yet.....
> BTW, I am looking for 18 .2uF caps. I can't find them anywhere, unless I use
> the big fat polyester ones that are HUGE. Is there a smaller one for this
> use? What about a .22uF tantalum cap? Would that be appropriate? I wish the
> author who made this( very good) website for the 2N20 would be a bit more
> specific in his use of caps. Many times it will say ".002uF". Well, does
> that mean polyester, or silver mica, or what? I KNOW some values just aren't
> normally found, ie, probably not too many 3pF caps are polyesters! I gotta
> admit I really don't know the difference between a silver mica, a tantalum,
> or whatever. I'm a stupid newbie....
> Tom
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comRegarding the MVAM109's...they are listed as obsolete - use NTE618 instead.
I can get them for $2.50 or if more than ten pieces they are $1.65.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
Grid Square DM13av
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspI have the Norcal Kit but I haven't been able to
identify a couple of the bags. I bet one of them is
the T50-7. Anybody help with ID info?
Mike, W9QS
> > If you have the Norcal Toroid Kit, you have
> T50-7's -
> > if you have any extra, please offer them here.
>
> -MAC-
> AF4PS
> FP -51
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/The T50-7 toroids are the only white ones, according to my package.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
Grid Square DM13av
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspDelbert I have 100 or so obsolete MVAM 109s coming and I am selling em
cheap. 50 cents each plus postage. I will announce soon as they arrive Fri
or Mon.
KD5KXF
-----Original Message-----
From: Delbert Long <
AD6WE@hotmail.com>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 7:19 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
>Regarding the MVAM109's...they are listed as obsolete - use NTE618 instead.
>I can get them for $2.50 or if more than ten pieces they are $1.65.
>
>Delbert Long, AD6WE
>2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
>Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
>Grid Square DM13av
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
T-10 is an audio transformer - to match with the 8-ohm speaker. 1200CT
means 1200 ohms primary, center tapped.
Hope that helps!
72,
Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
Grid Square DM13av
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspMike,
According to the "Paul Harden Databook for QRPers and Homebrewers" First
Edition, 1996.
The T50 has an Outside Diameter of .5 inch, Inside diameter of .303 inches.
The 7 signifies a U# of 9 and these are usually white in color and have a
frequency range of 3 to 35 Mhz.
It is an iron powder core.
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike broga" <mbroga@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] administravia
> I have the Norcal Kit but I haven't been able to
> identify a couple of the bags. I bet one of them is
> the T50-7. Anybody help with ID info?
>
> Mike, W9QS
>
>
> > > If you have the Norcal Toroid Kit, you have
> > T50-7's -
> > > if you have any extra, please offer them here.
> >
> > -MAC-
> > AF4PS
> > FP -51
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Good news. I have some extra. I will keep 4 and have
six to anyone who needs one.
Mike, W9QS
--- Delbert Long <
AD6WE@hotmail.com> wrote:
> The T50-7 toroids are the only white ones, according
> to my package.
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
> 2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
> Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
> Grid Square DM13av
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/Great Mike!
I have three left from the ones I've donated. I'm offering them free
including postage to W/VE (dx we'll see!) - just ask that the favor gets
passed along to another ham.
Again, please, only people who will actually build the radio. Send me
your snail mail address when replying.
Thanks es 73 de John, N1QO
mike broga wrote:
>
> Good news. I have some extra. I will keep 4 and have
> six to anyone who needs one.
>
> Mike, W9QS
>
> --- Delbert Long <AD6WE@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > The T50-7 toroids are the only white ones, according
> > to my package.
> >
> > Delbert Long, AD6WE
> > 2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
> > Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
> > Grid Square DM13av
> >
> >
> >
> _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWell gang I was thinking we would wait 'til Monday to really get
cranking, but this group has already gone past 50 members(!!!) so what
the heck...
Here are my thoughts on bulk ordering parts. This is just my opinion...
The whole shabang "bag-o-parts": If there were a group of people
physically near each other who could work on this, it would be great.
However I think it would be cumbersome for one person to kit this entire
rig. So, if we can talk a few folks into doing this and working 'em to
death... I'm OK with it. ;) Not holding my breath though.
Resistors: I don't really see a need to do a bulk order of these. Your
local Radio Shack (please, let's not start a thread about Radio Shack!)
should have 1/4 watt resistor packs with everything you need. If someone
is short a resistor or three just post here, I'm sure we can help you
out.
Capacitors: This might be a different story. I was thinking that if
someone had a line on a single source for all the caps we need, maybe a
2N2/40 "cap kit" might be a good idea. It may be possible to work with a
smaller dealer and have them do the "cap kit" if there are sufficient
orders (we would pay more in shipping, but it would be worth it).
Tuning Diodes: Someone already has 100+ MVAM109's on the way. He'll
announce here when he's ready. I think we're going to need someone to
work on the MV2115's.
Other parts: There are a number of other parts where a group buy would
make sense. Someone is donating 250 P2N2222a's and I'm offering 50 - so
we're probably all set there. I think someone else has a line on the
metal ones as well. A number of folks probably need toroids as well.
Radio Shack has the pots, fuses, power connectors, etc... really don't
see a need to order them.
Matching XTALS: We may be all set here - more later.
A note on selling/bulk ordering: Make sure you cover your costs for
shipping and mailers. Nobody needs to lose money doing this and nobody
is asking you to. It's OK if you end up a few dollars ahead - some
people donate any profit to charity - whatever works for you and keeps
everyone happy.
So let's go shopping guys! Keep us up to date on what you're working on
via this list to avoid duplication.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHello All,
I'll take a few of the MVAM109's. I could also use a T50-7 if any are
still available. I am a "newbie" and my junk box is pretty sparse. I
think it is safe for me to say that I will need any parts that will be
offered. Just let me know what the cost + shipping will be. I just
received my Manhattan Starter Kit...the book alone is worth the price!
73 de Pat - KF4LMZ
Rock Hill, South Carolina
EM94LX
----------
> From: Mike Malone <mmalone@worldlogon.com>
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
> Date: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 1:58 PM
>
> Ok, I bulk purchased em all and I will get back to you soon as they
arrive
> and I will sell em off at cost here first then make available to my
Flying
> Pig brothers and sisters. They were .50 each and I got 102 of em on way.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian" <brian@iquest.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 12:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
>
>
> > 50 cents each is a good deal!
> >
> > I've seen them as high as $2.35
> >
> > EACH
> >
> > Everyone needs one or two. Count me in.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mike Malone" <mmalone@worldlogon.com>
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 1:04 PM
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
> >
> >
> > > There are 102 of em and they asked $1 each. I have em down to .50
each.
> > They
> > > are house marked. Should we buy em? Lemme know guys, I will snagem
if
> > you
> > > want.
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Brian" <brian@iquest.net>
> > > To: "2N2" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 12:00 PM
> > > Subject: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
> > >
> > >
> > > > Name: Reggie Pollard
> > > > Email: acpcomp@acpsuperstore.com
> > > > Phone: 714-558-8822
> > > > Fax: 714-558-1603
> > > > Company: ACP Components, Inc.
> > > > Mailing Address: 1317 E. Edinger Ave.
> > > > Santa Ana, CA 92705
> > > >
> > > > This place is showing 100 MVAM109's in stock on USBID.com
> > > >
> > > > Someone call them and see how much they want.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ========================================
> > > > KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
> > > > QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
> > > > FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
> > > > TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
> > > > INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
> > > > SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
> > > > ========================================
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hi John...
Just started reading the previous 53 messages...got just two
questions for now...
1. Do we each start filling our egg cartons with the parts per the
QRPp article either from ordering individually or from our junk
boxes, or wait till we know what will be bulk order and sold via the
list here on Yahoo?
2. Will there be a narration of the build up..i.e., SEQ number 1-TR,
SEQ#2-VFO, etc..or do we just start and post our progress?
Mike, WB8ICN
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> Well gang I was thinking we would wait 'til Monday to really get
> cranking, but this group has already gone past 50 members(!!!) so
what
> the heck...
>
> Here are my thoughts on bulk ordering parts. This is just my
opinion...
Hey Mikey!!
Welcome to the 2N2 group!
How's my MP20? Can you tell it a bedtime story for me? Show it my picture
from time to time so it don't forget who its daddy is.
72
----- Original Message -----
From: <wb8icn@amexol.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 8:42 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: why wait? Let's shop!
> Hi John...
>
> Just started reading the previous 53 messages...got just two
> questions for now...
>
> 1. Do we each start filling our egg cartons with the parts per the
> QRPp article either from ordering individually or from our junk
> boxes, or wait till we know what will be bulk order and sold via the
> list here on Yahoo?
>
> 2. Will there be a narration of the build up..i.e., SEQ number 1-TR,
> SEQ#2-VFO, etc..or do we just start and post our progress?
>
> Mike, WB8ICN
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> > Well gang I was thinking we would wait 'til Monday to really get
> > cranking, but this group has already gone past 50 members(!!!) so
> what
> > the heck...
> >
> > Here are my thoughts on bulk ordering parts. This is just my
> opinion...
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hey Brian...yea I remind it from time to time who its Daddy is (LOL).
If I can ever find about two hours and some energy, I can get those last two
chips changed (PLL is easy...but the video amp is a nightmare) and that
should take care of it. I have got everything else done on it.
Really looking forward to the 2N2-40 project!!!!
Mikey
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Murrey <
brian@iquest.net>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, August 16, 2001 2:07 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: why wait? Let's shop!
>Hey Mikey!!
>
>Welcome to the 2N2 group!
>
>How's my MP20? Can you tell it a bedtime story for me? Show it my picture
>from time to time so it don't forget who its daddy is.
>
>72
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <wb8icn@amexol.net>
>To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 8:42 PM
>Subject: [2n2-40] Re: why wait? Let's shop!
>
>
>> Hi John...
>>
>> Just started reading the previous 53 messages...got just two
>> questions for now...
>>
>> 1. Do we each start filling our egg cartons with the parts per the
>> QRPp article either from ordering individually or from our junk
>> boxes, or wait till we know what will be bulk order and sold via the
>> list here on Yahoo?
>>
>> 2. Will there be a narration of the build up..i.e., SEQ number 1-TR,
>> SEQ#2-VFO, etc..or do we just start and post our progress?
>>
>> Mike, WB8ICN
>>
>> --- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
>> > Well gang I was thinking we would wait 'til Monday to really get
>> > cranking, but this group has already gone past 50 members(!!!) so
>> what
>> > the heck...
>> >
>> > Here are my thoughts on bulk ordering parts. This is just my
>> opinion...
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 03:24 PM 8/15/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Anyone know what the vaule of this finished inductor is supposed to be?
>Could we sub a T50-6 with a different number of turns?
Yes, I do. The original was 8.6 uH, which used 44 turns on a
T50-7 core. Anything near that inductance will work, including
adding a few more turns on a T50-6 core, but the drift may be
a tad more, due to the higher tempco on the 6 core versus the
7.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
Just now I was sitting here reading my Paul Harden Databook, the section on
toroids and I was asking myself a question that you just answered. Now
THAT'S service.
Inductors...they make my head hurt.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] VFO inductor value
> At 03:24 PM 8/15/01 -0400, you wrote:
> >Anyone know what the vaule of this finished inductor is supposed to be?
> >Could we sub a T50-6 with a different number of turns?
>
> Yes, I do. The original was 8.6 uH, which used 44 turns on a
> T50-7 core. Anything near that inductance will work, including
> adding a few more turns on a T50-6 core, but the drift may be
> a tad more, due to the higher tempco on the 6 core versus the
> 7.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I have 8 T50-7 available. The first 8 direct e-mail requests with addresses
will get one each. I will supply envelope and shipping. Units will ship
early next week.
Walt
N6XG
-----Original Message-----
From: ED Howell [mailto:
kb2nto@hfent.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 11:13 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] administravia
I could use the T50 7 toroid let me know how much for shipping....73,,,Ed
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Re: filling up on parts;
I am personally going through my junque box and finding whatever I can.
The hard to find stuff I'm hoping will show up in a group buy led by
someone - or - I'll start up a group buy on a hard to find part if I
find a source. I'm just sort of playing this part by ear - seems to be
working.
Re: narration;
I wasn't personally planning on doing that, but if someone wants to take
the ball and do that and people follow along that would be fine. My plan
was to build a stage at a time and post to this list when complete,
asking questions along the way, etc...
73 de John, N1QO
wb8icn@amexol.net wrote:
>
> Hi John...
>
> Just started reading the previous 53 messages...got just two
> questions for now...
>
> 1. Do we each start filling our egg cartons with the parts per the
> QRPp article either from ordering individually or from our junk
> boxes, or wait till we know what will be bulk order and sold via the
> list here on Yahoo?
>
> 2. Will there be a narration of the build up..i.e., SEQ number 1-TR,
> SEQ#2-VFO, etc..or do we just start and post our progress?
>
> Mike, WB8ICN
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> > Well gang I was thinking we would wait 'til Monday to really get
> > cranking, but this group has already gone past 50 members(!!!) so
> what
> > the heck...
> >
> > Here are my thoughts on bulk ordering parts. This is just my
> opinion...
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 11:05 PM 8/15/01 +0100, you wrote:
>I have been looking for these components and it looks like Ocean State
>Electronics may have them. I haven't asked yet, but will soon. They are
>asking $7 for the MVAM209
That's not the correct part for the VFO, it is a MVAM108 or MVAM109.
> and $2 for the MV2115.
That's the correct part for the variable bandwidth crystal filter.
However, one could also use the MV1662 sold by Hosfelt Electronics
at 3 for a dollar, and do the job just a well, if not better,
and for a lot less money.
>Anyone else find 'em cheaper? I haven't actually confirmed them yet.....
>BTW, I am looking for 18 .2uF caps. I can't find them anywhere, unless I use
>the big fat polyester ones that are HUGE. Is there a smaller one for this
>use? What about a .22uF tantalum cap? Would that be appropriate? I wish the
>author who made this( very good) website for the 2N20 would be a bit more
>specific in his use of caps.
That would be me! The caps that are called out as 0.2uf are actually
0.22uF monolithic. They could also be 0.1uF units. I used 0.22uF
caps 'cause I had 500 of them at the time the rig was designed.
Most of the larger valued caps are also monolithic, and the smaller
values are NPO temperature coefficient units or polystyrene. The
0.001uF caps in the VFO are polyester, and I'll be happy to supply
those to whomever is going to do the parts kitting. I got a bag of
1000 of those several years ago, and you can only make so many VFOs
in a lifetime! :-)
>Many times it will say ".002uF". Well, does
>that mean polyester, or silver mica, or what? I KNOW some values just aren't
>normally found, ie, probably not too many 3pF caps are polyesters! I gotta
>admit I really don't know the difference between a silver mica, a tantalum,
>or whatever. I'm a stupid newbie....
You're not stupid Tom, you just haven't been around parts for
45 years like some of us older guys. Eventually, you won't even
think about what kind of part needs to go where; it will be
come automatic. In the meantime, those of us who have been around
capacitors forever, forget that others might not be making the
mental associations regarding what type of capacitor to use in
a particular area, and why it is used there.
However, instead of trying to describe the complete bible
on capacitors and their use, it would probably be more
productive to concentrate on smaller areas of the design.
We'll do that as the rigs start to get built and I'll try
to provide some insight why particular types of capacitors
are used in a given area.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 08:02 PM 8/15/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>What is T10? What does 1200CT mean?
T10 is a 1200 ohm center tapped (CT)primary to 8 ohm
secondary audio transformer. The originals were obtained
from Jameco, but they don't sell that transformer anymore.
However, our good friends at Mouser sell an equivalent
transformer, part number 42TL003 (75 milliwatt) or
42TM003 (200 milliwatt). The higher power transformer
is slightly larger in size, and either should work fine.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 05:28 PM 8/15/01 -0700, you wrote:
>I have the Norcal Kit but I haven't been able to
>identify a couple of the bags. I bet one of them is
>the T50-7. Anybody help with ID info?
T50-7 are unique as they are painted white. The other toroids
in the Norcal kit are either red, yellow, black, or blackesh
grey. The latter two being ferrite cores in type 43 and type
61 material. A type FT37-61 core is used in the output of
the VFO as part of the tuned circuit.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Once again, I want to say how fortunate we are to have people in this hobby
like Jim K. Jim is patient and willing to 'splain to anyone willing ot
learn. He has helped me on numerous occasions and I for one appreciate it.
Thanks Jim.
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
|
69|69|2001-08-15 23:41:32|Kenneth Hoglund|Stocking Up|Seems that some of us are sensing a need to stock up on some basic
components for this project. I've been dealing with Electronics Goldmine
over the last several months, and there are a few things worth noting:
--they have a wonderful catalogue in PDF format on their website
http://www.goldmine-elec.com Some of the best stuff in the catalogue is
NOT in the on-line ordering system.
--they have metal-cased TO-18 new 2N2222A transistors for .25 each
--I recently received their "Super Copper Clad Assortment" of various
sized circuit board materials for $5 (their No. G2679). It is an
outstanding bag o'boards, probably 3 lbs in weight. I received 25
individual double-sided boards, from 2 X 3" to 6 X 6".
--they offer various assortments of caps and resistors in bulk. I
received the 1/4 w assortment of 50 different resistor values for $2.50.
--the Goldmine is running a summer special: 5% off any order over $10 up
till Aug. 31st.
No stock or interest in company--just having fun with their junque.
73
Ken KG4FGC
OK, I volunteer to get the zeners for the group, I will place the
order on Monday and should have them by the end of next week. I will
let you all know when they come in!!!
Dennis - WB0WAO
EN84ij Michigan "Up in the Great White North", eh?
|
71|33|2001-08-16 02:52:52|Hubert Smits|Re: Who / where are we all?||
72|54|2001-08-16 06:54:47|wb8icn@amexol.net|Re: why wait? Let's shop!|John....ahhh, I like your approach, i.e. one stage at a time and
doing the Q&A as we go through...learn a lot more that way!!! This
style of building up a rig from scratch is great as we can then jot
down ideas to maybe down the road use to modifiy and impove (is that
possible..hahaha) sections and do another project. I've always been
wanted to come up with a design that you could build separate
sections than piece together a rig for a particualr need...sorta like
cabling up a system in a rack with coax cables like I used to do
about 30+ years ago. For the most part, a transmitter is a
transmitter...but you can incorporate so many good ideas into a
receiver. Be fun to be able one day to grab several prefab PCBs with
the RF amp, IF, VFO/PLL, and detector circuits on them and then add
the special touches like a good CW filtering circuit, bandpass shift
selection circuit, DSP, ETC.
I will start going through the junk box and parts bins when I get
home this weekend and filling my egg cartons with parts.
This 2N2 porject is a great follow-on project since building the MP-
20 last spring.
Thanks John and whoever else helped form this group and got it up and
running!!!
72's...Mikey, WB8ICN
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> Re: filling up on parts;
>
> I am personally going through my junque box and finding whatever I
can.
> The hard to find stuff I'm hoping will show up in a group buy led by
> someone - or - I'll start up a group buy on a hard to find part if I
> find a source. I'm just sort of playing this part by ear - seems to
be
> working.
>
> Re: narration;
>
> I wasn't personally planning on doing that, but if someone wants to
take
> the ball and do that and people follow along that would be fine. My
plan
> was to build a stage at a time and post to this list when complete,
> asking questions along the way, etc...
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
It might be nice if someone were to take on the role of scribe and
keep some type of FAQ as we progress. This would let people that join
later (or just procrastinate like I tend to) to have one place to go
for info like the best source for parts, what value a certain
inductor is, common problems, troubleshooting hints, etc..
I'm afraid wading through the archive for this list will be a
challenge before all is said and done--because a lot will be said
while getting it done...
Just a thought...
73/72
Jim W4JBM
http://www.geocities.com/w4jbm/The junk box is open.
I will supply the first 12 builders that NEED THEM with 20 PN2222A's
(Fairchild) and 30 .01uF caps.
Send me a SASE and THREE first class stamps. Put a note in there that says
for the 2N2 project.
Brian Murrey - KB9BVN
47 Grassy Dr
New Whiteland IN 46184
PLEASE - If you don't need them, don't ask.
If you just need the caps...send two stamps and a SASE. I have .01uF caps
for everyone.
We should do a mass buy on the audio transformer. Anyone?
John...how many builders do you think we have? (50?)
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
|
75|73|2001-08-16 08:17:33|Brian|Re: For those that come after us...|Jim,
Jim Kortge's website and the QRPp issue are very comprehensive. I know my
biggest hurdle is going to be collecting all the parts in a timely fashion.
I'd also like to thank all the QRP folks for making projects like this
possible, but the list is long and distinguished. The guilty parties know
who they are.
72
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim" <jim30004@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 7:54 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] For those that come after us...
> It might be nice if someone were to take on the role of scribe and
> keep some type of FAQ as we progress. This would let people that join
> later (or just procrastinate like I tend to) to have one place to go
> for info like the best source for parts, what value a certain
> inductor is, common problems, troubleshooting hints, etc..
>
> I'm afraid wading through the archive for this list will be a
> challenge before all is said and done--because a lot will be said
> while getting it done...
>
> Just a thought...
>
> 73/72
> Jim W4JBM
>
> http://www.geocities.com/w4jbm/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I would hazard a guess, since it's marked as a ".2uF"
and not "200nF", that ceramic monolythic would be
fine. Need to look at where they are being
used--bypass caps? If they are used for
bypass/decoupling caps, or even in some cases coupling
caps, then anything would work in that capacitance
range.
I'd just use two .1uF caps in parallel.
As for the T50-7, is that the torroid used for the
vfo? If it is, you probably don't want to mess with
it. I think that a -7 mix (for the torroid) is
supposed to have the lowest tempco, meaning that the
vfo will have lower drift over time.
KB1CKT
Shawn Upton
****************
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 23:05:27 +0100
From: "TC Dufresne" <
tdufresne@neb.rr.com>
Subject: Parts for Rig...
I have been looking for these components and it looks
like Ocean State
Electronics may have them. I haven't asked yet, but
will soon. They are
asking $7 for the MVAM209 and $2 for the MV2115.
Anyone else find 'em cheaper? I haven't actually
confirmed them
yet.....
BTW, I am looking for 18 .2uF caps. I can't find them
anywhere, unless
I use
the big fat polyester ones that are HUGE. Is there a
smaller one for
this
use? What about a .22uF tantalum cap? Would that be
appropriate? I wish
the
author who made this( very good) website for the 2N20
would be a bit
more
specific in his use of caps. Many times it will say
".002uF". Well,
does
that mean polyester, or silver mica, or what? I KNOW
some values just
aren't
normally found, ie, probably not too many 3pF caps
are polyesters! I
gotta
admit I really don't know the difference between a
silver mica, a
tantalum,
or whatever. I'm a stupid newbie....
Tom
On the .01uF caps, I'll be sending 12 not 30.
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
|
78|78|2001-08-16 08:42:10|Brian|Pots|Are POT1, POT4, and POT5 trimmer pots?
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
|
79|79|2001-08-16 08:47:40|g4gxl@qsl.net|Calling UK group members|Interested to know how many UK stations are in the group.
If there's enough interest it may be easier for us to group buy some
of the components locally.
73 Steve G4GXL
|
80|78|2001-08-16 09:35:28|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Pots|At 08:41 AM 8/16/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Are POT1, POT4, and POT5 trimmer pots?
POT1 is a panel mounted potentiometer that controls the bandwidth of the
crystal filter. If you build the rig with a fixed bandwidth
filter, (an option that you may want to consider) then this
potentiometer won't be needed. POT4 is indeed a trimmer, used
to set the power output of the rig. POT5 is the r.f. gain control
potentiometer, and is also a panel mounted unit.
More info on the choice of crystal filter configurations, e.g.
variable versus fixed, at a later point in time.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I will do the same as John. If you need one please
e-mail me direct with your mailing address and I'll
send you one.
I still have the six available.
73
Mike, W9QS
--- John Wagner <
john@wagner-usa.net> wrote:
> Great Mike!
>
> I have three left from the ones I've donated. I'm
> offering them free
> including postage to W/VE (dx we'll see!) - just ask
> that the favor gets
> passed along to another ham.
>
> Again, please, only people who will actually build
> the radio. Send me
> your snail mail address when replying.
>
> Thanks es 73 de John, N1QO
>
> mike broga wrote:
> >
> > Good news. I have some extra. I will keep 4 and
> have
> > six to anyone who needs one.
> >
> > Mike, W9QS
> >
> > --- Delbert Long <AD6WE@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > > The T50-7 toroids are the only white ones,
> according
> > > to my package.
> > >
> > > Delbert Long, AD6WE
> > > 2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
> > > Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
> > > Grid Square DM13av
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
_________________________________________________________________
> > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> > >
> > >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute
> with Yahoo! Messenger
> > http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/At 11:30 PM 8/15/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Once again, I want to say how fortunate we are to have people in this hobby
>like Jim K. Jim is patient and willing to 'splain to anyone willing ot
>learn. He has helped me on numerous occasions and I for one appreciate it.
>Thanks Jim.
>
>-MAC-
>AF4PS
>Odessa, FL
Mac,
Many thanks for the kind words. Just trying to carry the
torch that others have lit, and continue this hobby in the
manner I think is appropriate and desirable.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Greetings peoples
Just to let you know I'm not stuck up : ) I had several instant
messages, and pressed the reply??? It disappeared and nothing happened. I
haven't started the kit yet, but have been saving the parts up for quite
awhile now, and will try to catch up on the archives here, before I get TOOOO
far behind. Thanks for having this list, and thanks for the users, you
will be an encouragement to get me going...
73, 72
Bill KE9XQ
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
84|84|2001-08-16 10:02:22|ke9xq@aol.com|troubles right here in river city|Sorry for the unneeded bandwidth here, but I cannot seem to get the instant
messenger to work for me, and the thing said I had 5 new messages... I'll
get this shortly I hope,,,
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
85|85|2001-08-16 10:28:59|Jake Carter|Excel Spreadsheet of 2N2/40 parts available.||
86|41|2001-08-16 10:33:37|Richard Brummer, K2JQ|Re: Capacitors etc.|-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY <
jokortge@prodigy.net>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, August 16, 2001 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Capacitors etc.
>Mac,
>
>Many thanks for the kind words. Just trying to carry the
>torch that others have lit, and continue this hobby in the
>manner I think is appropriate and desirable.
>
>72,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
What we need is more torch bearers like K8IQY !
Part of that torch bearing is demonstrated in the help we are being given on
this list.
That's a homebrew torch, right Jim ?
73,
Dick K2JQ
Group,
DONT'T buy any transformers! I'm sending John enough to cover everybody.
He's kindly volunteered to distribute them (what a saint!).
I'll look through my junk, 'er "stock" and see if there's anything else I
may have in bulk that can be used.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
On Thu, 16 Aug 2001 08:10:23 -0400 "Brian" <
brian@iquest.net> writes:
> The junk box is open.
>
>
> We should do a mass buy on the audio transformer. Anyone?
>
> John...how many builders do you think we have? (50?)
>
> ========================================
> KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
> QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
> FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
> TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
> INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
> SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
> ========================================
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Group,
When you get down the road a bit on your project and (hopefully not) need
to troubleshoot, here is a site with a Voltage chart (yes, measured on a
working unit!):
http://home.att.net/~mschettler/2N2.htm Thanks Mike! :-)
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Hi Jake,
> I put together an Excel spreadsheet of all the 2N2/40 parts (I think
> I got them all :-) ). I will email a copy to anyone who wants it.
This will come in handy -- can you put it in the "Files" section of the
2n2-40 group page at yahoogroups.com? That way we all won't pester you with
e-mail :-)
73,
Jerry
W0MC
--- In 2n2-40@y..., <2n2-40@y...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> This email message is a notification to let you know that
> a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the 2n2-40
> group.
>
> File : /NorCal_2n2_40_parts_--_assembly_list.xls
> Uploaded by : john@n...
> Description : 2N2/40 Parts list in Excel format
> > Regards,
>
> john@n...
John -
Thanks for the Excel file. That saves lots of time, and will make a
great check list for parts procurement.
Cam N6GA
Jim, what is the value of the RIT POT? Should this POT have a center
detent? The most advanced RIT Circuit is not in the Bill of Material and
the pot is not identified in the layout drawing.
Walt, N6XG
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY [mailto:
jokortge@prodigy.net]
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 6:34 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Pots
At 08:41 AM 8/16/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Are POT1, POT4, and POT5 trimmer pots?
POT1 is a panel mounted potentiometer that controls the bandwidth of the
crystal filter. If you build the rig with a fixed bandwidth
filter, (an option that you may want to consider) then this
potentiometer won't be needed. POT4 is indeed a trimmer, used
to set the power output of the rig. POT5 is the r.f. gain control
potentiometer, and is also a panel mounted unit.
More info on the choice of crystal filter configurations, e.g.
variable versus fixed, at a later point in time.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Actually it's Jake, N4UY who made the file, I just uploaded it.
Thanks Jake!
73 de John, N1QO
camqrp@cyberg8t.com wrote:
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., <2n2-40@y...> wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > This email message is a notification to let you know that
> > a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the 2n2-40
> > group.
> >
> > File : /NorCal_2n2_40_parts_--_assembly_list.xls
> > Uploaded by : john@n...
> > Description : 2N2/40 Parts list in Excel format
> > > Regards,
> >
> > john@n...
>
> John -
>
> Thanks for the Excel file. That saves lots of time, and will make a
> great check list for parts procurement.
>
> Cam N6GA
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI recently built this RIT for my MH101 SW-30+ and asked Jim that very
same question...
> >I had a look at the RIT for the 2n2/40 and will go with it for the
> >SW-30+. I have a couple of questions;
> >
> >1. Do you have a source for the center detent 1k pot?
>
> Sure I do. :-) Mouser part number ME313-2000. It is a 1K pot
> with a really good center detent, and very reasonably priced.
It works great, I can attest to it. ;)
73 de John, N1QO
Walt Wilson wrote:
>
> Jim, what is the value of the RIT POT? Should this POT have a center
> detent? The most advanced RIT Circuit is not in the Bill of Material and
> the pot is not identified in the layout drawing.
>
> Walt, N6XG
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY [mailto:jokortge@prodigy.net]
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 6:34 AM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Pots
>
> At 08:41 AM 8/16/01 -0400, you wrote:
> >Are POT1, POT4, and POT5 trimmer pots?
>
> POT1 is a panel mounted potentiometer that controls the bandwidth of the
> crystal filter. If you build the rig with a fixed bandwidth
> filter, (an option that you may want to consider) then this
> potentiometer won't be needed. POT4 is indeed a trimmer, used
> to set the power output of the rig. POT5 is the r.f. gain control
> potentiometer, and is also a panel mounted unit.
>
> More info on the choice of crystal filter configurations, e.g.
> variable versus fixed, at a later point in time.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comMike,
I would like a few of the 109s if they are available.
Thanks,
Jerry
W0PWE
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Malone [mailto:
mmalone@worldlogon.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 7:48 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
Delbert I have 100 or so obsolete MVAM 109s coming and I am selling em
cheap. 50 cents each plus postage. I will announce soon as they arrive Fri
or Mon.
KD5KXF
-----Original Message-----
From: Delbert Long <
AD6WE@hotmail.com>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 7:19 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] MVAM109's
>Regarding the MVAM109's...they are listed as obsolete - use NTE618 instead.
>I can get them for $2.50 or if more than ten pieces they are $1.65.
>
>Delbert Long, AD6WE
>2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
>Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
>Grid Square DM13av
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Could one of the elmers in the group post the specs for the tuning
diodes? Part of the process for me is learning the parameters of the
parts selection to assist in substitution when required. I grok the
fundamentals of reverse bias capacitance, but any deeper discussion
of use of varactors would be appreciated.
|
97|21|2001-08-16 12:53:33|Delbert Long|Re: MVAM109's|NTE618 is given as a substitute for the "obsolete" MVAM109. Specs for
NTE618 are here:
http://www.nteinc.com/specs/600to699/NTE618.html ----- Original Message -----
From: <jpm1@bellatlantic.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 9:05 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: MVAM109's
> Could one of the elmers in the group post the specs for the tuning
> diodes? Part of the process for me is learning the parameters of the
> parts selection to assist in substitution when required. I grok the
> fundamentals of reverse bias capacitance, but any deeper discussion
> of use of varactors would be appreciated.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
At 10:33 AM 8/16/01 -0400, you wrote:
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY <jokortge@prodigy.net>
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>Date: Thursday, August 16, 2001 9:54 AM
>Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Capacitors etc.
>-snip-
>
>What we need is more torch bearers like K8IQY !
>Part of that torch bearing is demonstrated in the help we are being given on
>this list.
>
>That's a homebrew torch, right Jim ?
Absolutely Dick!! OK, enough of that thread gang, back to
ordering parts and making solder smoke.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 08:08 AM 8/16/01 -0700, you wrote:
>Jim, what is the value of the RIT POT? Should this POT have a center
>detent? The most advanced RIT Circuit is not in the Bill of Material and
>the pot is not identified in the layout drawing.
>
>Walt, N6XG
Hi Walt and 2N2/40 builders,
The RIT potentiometer is a 1K ohm linear taper unit
with a center detent. It is Mouser part number 313-2000-1K.
Here is the URL for pictures and schematic of the RIT as used
in the 2N2/40 rig #2.
Your are correct that the parts for the RIT are not in the
original parts list, as this was added after the original design
and the QRPp article if I remember correctly. The most recent
incarnation of the audio mute circuitry also isn't in the
parts list, only the original version using a PN2222, not
the better inplementation using a 2N7000 MOSFET.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 09:50 AM 8/16/01 -0700, you wrote:
>NTE618 is given as a substitute for the "obsolete" MVAM109. Specs for
>NTE618 are here:
>
>http://www.nteinc.com/specs/600to699/NTE618.html
Also, the Toshiba 1SV149 is a current production part matching
the MVAM108/109 characteristics. This link will take you to
its data sheet:
http://pdf.toshiba.com/taec/components/Datasheet/1SV149.pdf This is the varicap diode used by Elecraft in the K2 and K1 rigs.
I'm going to post to the [2N2-40] image section a scan of the
MVAM108 and MVAM109 varicap data sheet showing the voltage-
capacitance curve for these devices.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
The scan of the MVAM108/109 data sheet is up on the
Yahoo 2N2-40 group page where you can go look at it.
I'll be happy to answer questions. BTW, the equation
on the MVAM108 graph is the curve of the line to compute
the resulting capacitance for a given voltage between the
limits of 1 volt and 6 volts.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
102|78|2001-08-16 14:18:51|camqrp@cyberg8t.com|Modifications|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> Your are correct that the parts for the RIT are not in the
> original parts list, as this was added after the original design
> and the QRPp article if I remember correctly. The most recent
> incarnation of the audio mute circuitry also isn't in the
> parts list, only the original version using a PN2222, not
> the better inplementation using a 2N7000 MOSFET.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Jim -
Are all of the mods documented on your website? I know you've made a
couple changes since the Winter '98 QRPp was published. Could you
briefly list the changes here so we can make sure we do 'em right?
Thanks,
Cam N6GAGreetings
I have a bunch of brand X toroids, so if someone would like to do
some experimenting and comparing these with known values, I'll share
some with you, for postage, let me know what you have in mind. I'm a
little afraid of these, as the mixes might not be exactlly what we
want them to be.
I've also just caught up on the archives, glad they are not too
numerous as of yet, and if it is not too late to take advantage of
the 109's and audio transformer I'd like to receive them.
Think I just ordered 90 of the 2n2222s so, think I am getting anxious
to start mine.
Has anyone considered building this with SMT? I don't know that I
can handle it, but I did start ordering parts. : )
I'll be more than glad to take my turn at ordering something, and
distributing as needed, just let me know how I might chip in and help.
72
Bill KE9XQ
|
105|85|2001-08-16 16:42:24|LessB@aol.com|Re: Excel Spreadsheet of 2N2/40 parts available.|Could you send me a copy of the spread sheet.
Les Bearl, N0PPF
lessb@aol.comHi Steve,
One vote from Scotland, and yes I'm interested in buying locally or a 'bulk'
order for the UK builders for those components that we can't get over here.
73, Hubert MM0GMM
-----Original Message-----
From:
g4gxl@qsl.net [mailto:
g4gxl@qsl.net]
Sent: 16 August 2001 13:47
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Calling UK group members
Interested to know how many UK stations are in the group.
If there's enough interest it may be easier for us to group buy some
of the components locally.
73 Steve G4GXL
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/I fumbled around with my spreadsheet and uploaded it to the group's
file area in HTM format -- just in case Excel wasn't an option for
some folks.
I've got spreadsheets for a bunch of my Manhattan Projects, ie my
Tuna Tin II, Neophyte receiver, the Rockbender receiver, and the
Kitchen Regen Rcvr from QRPp Vol VII, No2, plus a bunch of smaller
stuff (can you tell I'm a CPA, not an EE?? :-) ) If anyone wants
spreadsheets for these other projects, just email me at
N4UY@arrl.net and I'll send it out to you.
Hope this info helps,
Jake -- N4UY
Hi Keith here in the Depths of the Great Bergen Swamp
My 2N2-40 is about 75% complete (and collecting dust from last winter!).
I was given a whole pile of parts from generous members of QRP-L and
bought the rest from Hosfelt Electronics.
The easiest way to get 0.2uF is a pair of monolithic ceramic 0.1uF in
parallel. They are manufactured to fit on a header with pin spacing of
0.1" and they run about $0.10/each in lots of 50 and up.
Check the parts bins at larger hamfests. I bought a reel of 0.1uF (1000
caps!) one time for $10. The leads were precut and tinned for machine
insertion but they worked just fine.
My 2N2-40 is going to use a 50 pF variable for the main tuning (because I
have one in the box!) instead of the varactors. I guess it won't be
"Pure" but I'll live with it!
73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Technical Coordinator, WNY Section, ARRL
ARRL Life Member, President/Brockport Amateur Radio Klub
Ph - 716.494.1239
mailto:
wb2vuo@arrl.net ________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.2n2er's,
Great news; I'm pleased to report that Jim Kortge, K8IQY is going to do
the matching crystals for us. Here is a snippet of an email I got from
him earlier:
> I am thinking of offering two flavors of crystal
> sets though. The first would be a set if 5 with 3 matched for
> the variable filter like was used in the original 2N2/40 and
> the follow-up rig that is in QRPp. The second version would
> be with 6 crystals with 4 matched for a fixed 500 Hz filter.
> Either could be used in the rig, and in fact, both could be with
> a bit of switching circuitry. The pricing will be $10 for the
> 5 crystal set, and $12 for the 6 crystal set, same as I charged
> a couple of years ago when the article came out and the Arizona
> gang were silkscreening the layouts and selling them.
Send no money now. ;) Jim will share details of how/when to order when
the time comes.
But wait, that's not all! I'm also pleased to announce that Steve,
WB6TNL is sending me enough audio transformers (T10) to cover all of us
if needed. I'll wait to see if I end up doing any other group purchases
before shipping 'em out to you folks.
I'd also like to share with y'all that this group is now 71 members
strong!!! Thank you to everyone for their interest and participation in
this exciting project. Also, please remember that we have DX (for US
based hams anyway) members in this group. If you're doing a group
purchase, think about how to get the parts to them (and DX members
please help us out if there is anything we need to know before
shipping).
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI thought I saw Jim mention that you could use a 0.1uF in place of the
0.2uF...
Does that mean the capacitance is close enough, or is he referring to
using two .1's in parallel?
73 de John, N1QO
wny-tc@juno.com wrote:
>
> Hi Keith here in the Depths of the Great Bergen Swamp
>
> My 2N2-40 is about 75% complete (and collecting dust from last winter!).
> I was given a whole pile of parts from generous members of QRP-L and
> bought the rest from Hosfelt Electronics.
>
> The easiest way to get 0.2uF is a pair of monolithic ceramic 0.1uF in
> parallel. They are manufactured to fit on a header with pin spacing of
> 0.1" and they run about $0.10/each in lots of 50 and up.
>
> Check the parts bins at larger hamfests. I bought a reel of 0.1uF (1000
> caps!) one time for $10. The leads were precut and tinned for machine
> insertion but they worked just fine.
>
> My 2N2-40 is going to use a 50 pF variable for the main tuning (because I
> have one in the box!) instead of the varactors. I guess it won't be
> "Pure" but I'll live with it!
>
> 73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Technical Coordinator, WNY Section, ARRL
> ARRL Life Member, President/Brockport Amateur Radio Klub
> Ph - 716.494.1239
> mailto:wb2vuo@arrl.net
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi again. Keith here in the Depths of the Great Bergen Swamp
I used 0.1 uF in all the spots that the 0.2 was specified. As was posted
earlier, 35+ years of experience dictated my decision coupled with a
quick pass eval of the particular application in the circuit.
I have burned up enough parts in the past that I have developed a fair
sense of what works and what doesn't. I have not figured out how to
"Time" as the riders in Anne McCaffrey's Dragonriders do in Pern, so I
have never finished all of the projects I wanted to. This is one that
will receive my semi-divided attention this fall and winter and I am
shooting for mid-December to finally finish.
Then I will get back to the 2N2222-based PSK-31 rig that I was planning
to run for FD-2001!
73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Technical Coordinator, WNY Section, ARRL
ARRL Life Member, President/Brockport Amateur Radio Klub
Ph - 716.494.1239
mailto:
wb2vuo@arrl.net ________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Bill,
I just sent John, N1QP a hundred transformers (he doesn't know I sent
100, shhh!). He'll be distributing them but it would probably be best to
wait for his announcement on how he's going to do it.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Hi Keith,
If you don't mind, can you tell us why the 0.1 uF is usable in this
situation?
IOW's; what is it about this application of the 0.2 uF caps that made
you know that a .1 uF would suffice.
Thanks!
73 de John, N1QO
wny-tc@juno.com wrote:
>
> Hi again. Keith here in the Depths of the Great Bergen Swamp
>
> I used 0.1 uF in all the spots that the 0.2 was specified. As was posted
> earlier, 35+ years of experience dictated my decision coupled with a
> quick pass eval of the particular application in the circuit.
>
> I have burned up enough parts in the past that I have developed a fair
> sense of what works and what doesn't. I have not figured out how to
> "Time" as the riders in Anne McCaffrey's Dragonriders do in Pern, so I
> have never finished all of the projects I wanted to. This is one that
> will receive my semi-divided attention this fall and winter and I am
> shooting for mid-December to finally finish.
>
> Then I will get back to the 2N2222-based PSK-31 rig that I was planning
> to run for FD-2001!
>
> 73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Technical Coordinator, WNY Section, ARRL
> ARRL Life Member, President/Brockport Amateur Radio Klub
> Ph - 716.494.1239
> mailto:wb2vuo@arrl.net
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi all,
It's been a long time since I've looked at the caps in
this kit. Does anyone know if they are NPO's or??
I've slept alot since I got it and at my age.....
73
Mike, W9QS
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/Hi Jerry if you get a chance I cud use one of your
spreasheets pse. I need to start rounding everything
up soon.Thanks for the help. 73 rob, KC8NYW..
kc8nyw@arrl.net --- Jerry McCollom W0MC <
w0mc@club-pre.org> wrote:
> Hi Jake,
>
> > I put together an Excel spreadsheet of all the
> 2N2/40 parts (I think
> > I got them all :-) ). I will email a copy to
> anyone who wants it.
>
> This will come in handy -- can you put it in the
> "Files" section of the
> 2n2-40 group page at yahoogroups.com? That way we
> all won't pester you with
> e-mail :-)
>
> 73,
> Jerry
> W0MC
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/Yep, they are NPOs (or COGs, which are just as good).
Jerry
W0MC
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike broga" <mbroga@yahoo.com>
To: "2n2" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 6:41 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Norcal Cap kits
> Hi all,
>
> It's been a long time since I've looked at the caps in
> this kit. Does anyone know if they are NPO's or??
>
> I've slept alot since I got it and at my age.....
>
> 73
>
> Mike, W9QS
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Mike and group,
Yep, the kit of cap's. I got from NorCal (second run) are NP0s. You can
confirm by the black ink dot on the top of the disks.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
On Thu, 16 Aug 2001 17:41:21 -0700 (PDT) mike broga <
mbroga@yahoo.com>
writes:
> Hi all,
>
> It's been a long time since I've looked at the caps in
> this kit. Does anyone know if they are NPO's or??
>
> I've slept alot since I got it and at my age.....
>
> 73
>
> Mike, W9QS
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.How about the MV2115's? Ocean State has them for $1.95....
Del, AD6WE
|
123|123|2001-08-16 21:16:39|Delbert Long|Chat|Just found out that there's a chat feature in the yahoo 2n2/40 group
room...I'll check in there tomorrow....
AD6WE, Del
|
124|109|2001-08-16 21:42:32|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 0.2 uF the easy way|At 07:10 PM 8/16/01 -0400, you wrote:
>I thought I saw Jim mention that you could use a 0.1uF in place of the
>0.2uF...
Yes, 0.1uF monolitic caps should work just fine where 0.22uF
are specified.
>Does that mean the capacitance is close enough, or is he referring to
>using two .1's in parallel?
No, if you have 0.1uF, use them, if you have 0.22uF, us them.
It really doesn't matter......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 05:41 PM 8/16/01 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>It's been a long time since I've looked at the caps in
>this kit. Does anyone know if they are NPO's or??
Mike,
All of the caps in the Norcal kit up to 1000pF are NPO,
all the rest are a variety of temperature and tolerance
specs, but not NPO.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 06:08 PM 8/16/01 -0700, you wrote:
>How about the MV2115's? Ocean State has them for $1.95....
>
>Del, AD6WE
Gang.....don't spend $1.95 for an MV2115 when a MV1662 from
Hosfelt Electronics at 3 units for $1 will do just as well
or better!
Hosfelt's number is 1-800-524-6464. The have great service too.
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks to all that answered my question.
What a great group.
Looks like I've got the caps covered.
73
Mike, W9QS
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/'Nuff said. ;)
I'm calling tomorrow and will order 200 of these. I will distribute them
with the audio transformers and whatever else I end up buying. Don't
send email about them just yet, I'm not done ordering stuff!
73 de John, N1QO
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> At 06:08 PM 8/16/01 -0700, you wrote:
> >How about the MV2115's? Ocean State has them for $1.95....
> >
> >Del, AD6WE
>
> Gang.....don't spend $1.95 for an MV2115 when a MV1662 from
> Hosfelt Electronics at 3 units for $1 will do just as well
> or better!
>
> Hosfelt's number is 1-800-524-6464. The have great service too.
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi gang
Only one reply from another UK group member so I could do with some
help sourcing parts in the US.
Is there any one in the group who can help out and can receive
payments via PayPal so that I can cover costs ?
I need all diodes (except 1n4148's and 1n4001's), crystals,
transformer, inductors, caps and the RIT pot with the indent !
BUT, I have got some surplus T37-2, T50-7, FT37-61 and FT37-43, let
me know if I can help.
Am searching UK component suppliers for parts and will post any
useful sources when found.
73
Steve G4GXL (RSGB,ARRL,GQRP,NORCAL,NJQRP,ARCI,FISTS,ARS ... )
Steve Fletcher
43 Philip Rudd Court
Pott Row
Kings Lynn
Norfolk
PE32 1WA
U.K.
|
130|129|2001-08-17 08:20:25|wb0wao@yahoo.com|Re: Toroids available, but not much else :(|Steve,
Don't worry about the zener diodes at least, I am ordering enough for everyone at the first of the week, let me know how many of each you need, and I will send them to you direct.
Dennis - WB0WAO
BTW - Lovely area you are in, spent '82 - '84 at RAF Lakenheath! :-) Ahhh, to be 22 again!
|
131|41|2001-08-17 09:21:07|Michael Hall|Re: Capacitors etc.|Hi Jim....
Just a quick note to you my friend...in the crazy world of the Flying Pigs,
your on-going assistance, patience and Elmering makes you a Icon and a
Legend in our books!!!
72's & OO's..Mikey, WB8ICN
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY <
jokortge@prodigy.net>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, August 16, 2001 1:54 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Capacitors etc.
>At 11:30 PM 8/15/01 -0400, you wrote:
>>Once again, I want to say how fortunate we are to have people in this
hobby
>>like Jim K. Jim is patient and willing to 'splain to anyone willing ot
>>learn. He has helped me on numerous occasions and I for one appreciate
it.
>>Thanks Jim.
>>
>>-MAC-
>>AF4PS
>>Odessa, FL
>
>Mac,
>
>Many thanks for the kind words. Just trying to carry the
>torch that others have lit, and continue this hobby in the
>manner I think is appropriate and desirable.
>
>72,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Well said, Mikey.
I have to add that, while you can look at Jim's Manhattan style construction
work at his website, you HAVE to see it "up close and personal" at one of
the QRP conventions.
73
Dick K2JQ
Mahopac, NY
FP #84 SOC #105 QRP-L #1811
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Hall <
wb8icn@amexol.net>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Friday, August 17, 2001 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Capacitors etc.
>Hi Jim....
>
>Just a quick note to you my friend...in the crazy world of the Flying Pigs,
>your on-going assistance, patience and Elmering makes you a Icon and a
>Legend in our books!!!
>
>72's & OO's..Mikey, WB8ICN
Hello Gang,
Any suggestions on the best way to cut PC Board? I don't have access
to a table saw. I tried using avaiation snips, but did not like the
results. What about using a jig saw or hacksaw? The PC board that
came with my Manhattan Starter Kit is 6" x 9" and I need to cut it
down to 5" x 7". Also, is anyone planning on selling any pads? I
need to get some. If not, I guess I can use square pads that I cut
out with a nibbling tool.
73 de Pat KF4LMZ
Rock Hill, South Carolina
|
134|133|2001-08-17 21:49:46|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Cutting PC Board|At 01:32 AM 8/18/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello Gang,
>
>Any suggestions on the best way to cut PC Board?
Without a shear, I'd suggest scribing it on both sides with
a sharp utility knife, and breaking it across a good solid
edge. File the edges down after breaking it, as they may be
quite sharp and cut your fingers. Also a good thing to do
with cuts on a shear.
> I don't have access
>to a table saw. I tried using avaiation snips, but did not like the
>results. What about using a jig saw or hacksaw? The PC board that
>came with my Manhattan Starter Kit is 6" x 9" and I need to cut it
>down to 5" x 7". Also, is anyone planning on selling any pads?
I'm not! :-) I think all serious Manhattan-style builders ought
to own a Whitney style punch, like the one Harbor Freight and
Grizzly sell, and/or an ADEL nibbling tool for making rectangular
pads. Just my opinion though. Decent tools taken care of last
a lifetime. My ADEL was bought around 1958, and still going strong.
> I
>need to get some. If not, I guess I can use square pads that I cut
>out with a nibbling tool.
Yup....that'll work fine too.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
In a message dated 8/17/2001 9:34:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kf4lmz@qsl.net writes:
> Hello Gang,
>
> Any suggestions on the best way to cut PC Board? I don't have access
> to a table saw. I tried using avaiation snips, but did not like the
> results. What about using a jig saw or hacksaw? The PC board that
> came with my Manhattan Starter Kit is 6" x 9" and I need to cut it
> down to 5" x 7". Also, is anyone planning on selling any pads? I
> need to get some. If not, I guess I can use square pads that I cut
> out with a nibbling tool.
>
> 73 de Pat KF4LMZ
> Rock Hill, South Carolina
I use the small square pads, and I cut with a hacksaw. I do file the edges.
Have fun Pat!
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa. FL
At 06:17 PM 8/16/01 +0000, you wrote:
>--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > Your are correct that the parts for the RIT are not in the
> > original parts list, as this was added after the original design
> > and the QRPp article if I remember correctly. The most recent
> > incarnation of the audio mute circuitry also isn't in the
> > parts list, only the original version using a PN2222, not
> > the better inplementation using a 2N7000 MOSFET.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>Jim -
>
>Are all of the mods documented on your website? I know you've made a
>couple changes since the Winter '98 QRPp was published. Could you
>briefly list the changes here so we can make sure we do 'em right?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Cam N6GA
Hi Cam,
Well all of the changes relating to the QRPp article are up-to-date
on the web page, as far as I can remember. I did my best to keep
up with the omissions and errors as they were reported.
However, I think some minor changes to the design are in order,
since I've learned a thing or two since I designed the rig. I'm
working on those changes now and will post them and an updated
set of schematics to the Yahoo 2N2-40 web site as soon as they
are completed. Essentially, the changes concern a slight rearrangement
of the drive to the receive DBM, some minor changes to the IF amplifier,
and adding a 33 v Zener to the collector circuit of the finals to
make them tolerate high SWR conditions without exploding. I also
am looking at a better design for the receiver RF amplifier.
Guess that's it,
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I also use a hacksaw for some cuts. In addition to that, I have a hobby
type saw that was originally bought for cutting model railroad track. It
says "atlas" on the side and the blade is very fine. This hobby saw is
great for making IC pads (which we won't need for this radio!) - it
makes very thin cuts.
73 de John, N1QO
macstein@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 8/17/2001 9:34:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kf4lmz@qsl.net
> writes:
>
> > Hello Gang,
> >
> > Any suggestions on the best way to cut PC Board? I don't have access
> > to a table saw. I tried using avaiation snips, but did not like the
> > results. What about using a jig saw or hacksaw? The PC board that
> > came with my Manhattan Starter Kit is 6" x 9" and I need to cut it
> > down to 5" x 7". Also, is anyone planning on selling any pads? I
> > need to get some. If not, I guess I can use square pads that I cut
> > out with a nibbling tool.
> >
> > 73 de Pat KF4LMZ
> > Rock Hill, South Carolina
>
> I use the small square pads, and I cut with a hacksaw. I do file the edges.
> Have fun Pat!
>
> -MAC-
> AF4PS
> Odessa. FL
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comUpdate:
I did not order the diodes today. I starting asking the operator about
additional parts and she decided it was in both of our best interest to
send me a catalog. She said they had 1700 MV1662's in stock, so unless
there is a major run on 'em, I expect to be able to order them in a week
or so when the catalog arrives.
Jake, N4UY is sending me enough 2N7000's for everyone and Steve, WB6TNL
is sending the audio transformers (100 of 'em). Once I collect up
everything that's been donated and the stuff I'm going to buy, I'll
figure what the costs are going to be for the parts I'll be
distributing. You won't be asked to pay for the donated parts
(obviously). If I end up with extra money, it will be donated to a local
charity in our groups name. If I end up with extra parts, they'll be go
back to the original donor or given away to other builders as needed.
Update on this list: It's grown to over 80 people - that's an INCREDIBLE
response! I realize not everyone subscribed to the list is going to
build and/or need parts. What I would like each person to do, is email
me DIRECTLY (i.e. do not respond to this message, send a new one to me
only). My email address is
john@wagner-usa.net - tell me if you're going
to build and if you intend to buy parts in the bulk buys. I don't need
to know specific parts, just in general. I'll post a synopsis of the
responses here on the list.
Also, since the group has grown so large, it will greatly facilitate
sharing of files and other information if everyone who is able (i.e. has
WWW access) joins the 2n2-40 group on Yahoo. This will entail signing up
for a Yahoo account. I didn't want to have to ask people to do this, but
there are so many that emailing files just won't be practical. Thank
you.
73 de John, N1QO
John Wagner wrote:
>
> 'Nuff said. ;)
>
> I'm calling tomorrow and will order 200 of these. I will distribute them
> with the audio transformers and whatever else I end up buying. Don't
> send email about them just yet, I'm not done ordering stuff!
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> >
> > At 06:08 PM 8/16/01 -0700, you wrote:
> > >How about the MV2115's? Ocean State has them for $1.95....
> > >
> > >Del, AD6WE
> >
> > Gang.....don't spend $1.95 for an MV2115 when a MV1662 from
> > Hosfelt Electronics at 3 units for $1 will do just as well
> > or better!
> >
> > Hosfelt's number is 1-800-524-6464. The have great service too.
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHowdy! I use the paper based pc board stock that Chuck Adams uses and to
cut my pads, I cut a 1/8" strip on a paper cutter and then just turn that
sucker the other way and chop 1/8" squares. Do a couple of 12" strips at a
time and end up with a bunch of pads. I toss the ones that are really rough
on the edges... get a few warped ones but for the most part they are ready
to use with few exceptions. Hope this helps. Now the paper cutter I use is
the finger chopper style with a 18" blade that pivots on a bolt at one end
with a handle on the other. Your office may have one available for early
morning missions.
Oh yeah... I use brite boy and scratch the heck out of the stock before I
cut. They glue down a lot better.
KD5KXF Manhattan in TX???
|
140|133|2001-08-17 23:41:14|sigcom@juno.com|Re: Cutting PC Board|Pat,
I agree with Jim Kortge on the utility knife method. I use my 5" bench
vise to clamp the board when I snap it. Makes a nice, clean break.
Also, I use a rubber hand-sanding block with medium grit (100 to 200 or
so. Not critical) sandpaper to finish the edges. Been doing this for
years and it works every time.
You'll see the results when I finish my 2N2 and put some pictures up on
the web (Mike, says "What year, Steve?).
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
On Sat, 18 Aug 2001 01:32:56 -0000
kf4lmz@qsl.net writes:
> Hello Gang,
>
> Any suggestions on the best way to cut PC Board?
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.I use a big pair of sheet metal shears and they seem to do a fine job. I
can make a million square pads in the same time I use the Harbor Freight
Punch to make 100.
----- Original Message -----
From: <sigcom@juno.com>
To: <kf4lmz@qsl.net>
Cc: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Cutting PC Board
> Pat,
>
> I agree with Jim Kortge on the utility knife method. I use my 5" bench
> vise to clamp the board when I snap it. Makes a nice, clean break.
> Also, I use a rubber hand-sanding block with medium grit (100 to 200 or
> so. Not critical) sandpaper to finish the edges. Been doing this for
> years and it works every time.
> You'll see the results when I finish my 2N2 and put some pictures up on
> the web (Mike, says "What year, Steve?).
Gang,
I've been going through the junque box, but find mainly European stuff. Can
anybody either specify European replacements for:
MVAM109
MV2115
PN2222 (metal case)
1N47735A
1N4744A
Or point me to a webside that provides this service. I have been looking at
a few but without much success.
Thanks, Hubert
|
143|143|2001-08-18 15:51:37|John Wagner|audio transformers are in|Gang,
The audio transformers from Steve, WB6TNL have arrived. I'm awaiting
other donated parts from others. When they've all arrived I'm going to
start asking what else we need to bulk order. I'm thinking that a lot of
us will be needing capacitors (some have already been donated). I'm
going to order the MV1662's and someone has already ordered the MVAM's.
As I mentioned before, Jim, K8IQY will be offering matching sets of
xtals. Please wait for further notice from him on their availability.
So far I have had about 20 positive responses from people who will be
building and most of them indicated they will need parts. Please email
me directly if you have not done so already and will be needing parts.
We'll order extras but I want to keep the excess to a minimum.
Ken, KG4FGC will be assisting in the kiting of whatever I end up with
and mailing the parts out.
Someone asked about what time frame I was aiming for to start building.
I am personally hoping to have all the parts orders wrapped up by the
end of August and stuff mailed out the first or second week of september
and building shortly thereafter. That might be a little ambitious - we
shall see.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJohn,
You've sparked me into building something again!!
I should be on your list as I replyed to your "Last Call" on QRP-L. If not,
please add me now. I'm ready to go with a few basic parts and will need the
rest. Could use a "Bag of Parts" if it becomes available.
If I can be of any help kitting from here in Asheville, NC, please let me
know.
72/73
Ed N2GVS mailto:
edstagl@att.net 4704 Breakers Lane,
Asheville, NC 28806
----- Original Message -----
From: John Wagner <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2001 3:54 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] audio transformers are in
> Gang,
>
> The audio transformers from Steve, WB6TNL have arrived. I'm awaiting
> other donated parts from others. When they've all arrived I'm going to
> start asking what else we need to bulk order. I'm thinking that a lot of
> us will be needing capacitors (some have already been donated). I'm
> going to order the MV1662's and someone has already ordered the MVAM's.
>
> As I mentioned before, Jim, K8IQY will be offering matching sets of
> xtals. Please wait for further notice from him on their availability.
>
> So far I have had about 20 positive responses from people who will be
> building and most of them indicated they will need parts. Please email
> me directly if you have not done so already and will be needing parts.
> We'll order extras but I want to keep the excess to a minimum.
>
> Ken, KG4FGC will be assisting in the kiting of whatever I end up with
> and mailing the parts out.
>
> Someone asked about what time frame I was aiming for to start building.
> I am personally hoping to have all the parts orders wrapped up by the
> end of August and stuff mailed out the first or second week of september
> and building shortly thereafter. That might be a little ambitious - we
> shall see.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Count me in John!
Tom
KC0GXX
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspIn a message dated 8/18/2001 3:51:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
john@wagner-usa.net writes:
John, I've decided that I want to build this from scratch again. I learned
a thing or three about parts layout while building the MP-20. So, I would
like in on the available parts. Thanks.
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
Group,
This is a list of suggestions for 2N2/40 builders, based on my own
experience with building a 2N2/40 last year. I ran this by John and he
approved it so here goes. My $0.02 worth.
"Some Suggestions"
1) Be sure to print out and incorporate the corrections on Jim
Kortge's 2N2/40 web site.
http://www.qsl.net/k8iqy/2n2errs.html 2) Don't mess with the VFO parts values. The VFO works really good
as-is. Make sure you put in the NP0 caps for stability.
3) At Jim's suggestion, I changed the value of R20 to about 4.7K in
the IF Amp to bias Q6 collector to about 5V. The Amp works better with
this biasing.
4) Don't bother using the original Rx Mute circuit unless you just
can't come up with a 2N7000. Jim's FET mute circuit works much better
than the bipolar original. Note that a supply of 2N7000's has been
donated to the group effort.
5) I used a 10-turn pot for POT2, the VFO control. Many others have
done the same. You will really appreciate it if you can put one in
there. With a 10-turn dial counter, my rig almost has a digital
readout of the frequency, since the coverage is about 100 kHz.
6) Try to get a set of well-matched crystals for the filter (Y1-Y3).
The bandpass filter works quite well for a simple design.
7) If possible, use different colors of enameled wire on the bifilar
and trifilar coil windings. This will save you lots of time in
troubleshooting. Dan's Small Parts has some wire on his site, called
"Double Balanced Mixer Wire Kit". I also color-coded the hookup wire,
such as red for +12V, orange for the transmitter (keyed) +12V, blue
for the key line.
8) Have lots of Manhattan mounting pads (chads?) available. You will
need over 100 of them. And a bunch will be larger than the usual small
sized ones. The transmitter PA uses a couple that are pretty long. My
feeling is that it is better to use a bigger pad than to try and
squeeze 4 or more leads on a small pad. Invariably when I try to
solder the last lead to an overcrowded pad, another lifts off.
9) Don't forget the fuse. It's worth the trouble. Really.
10) Build a section and check it out. Don't feel intimidated by the
size of the job. It will go faster than you think. Above all else,
have fun with it!
72
Mike WA6MER
Folks:
I saw an item about this group on QRP-L and thought it would be a good idea
to follow along. I won't be building a 2N2/40 with you, though. Why?
Because I already have! But I know I can learn from the rest of you by
looking over your shoulders and look forward to doing so.
My rig works quite well and I use it often. It sure is fun using a rig you
built yourself from scratch. It was my first large-scale Manhattan-style
project. It wasn't easy; it took months and a lot of help from Jim, K8IQY
to get it working. But working it is. If you follow through with this
project, you'll end up with a sweet little Fox-hunt rig that you'll get a
lot of pleasure out of operating.
What I thought I could do was to make a standing offer to help anyone who
needs measurements (voltages, etc.) from a known-working rig. So if you
find yourself with questions along the lines of "what should I be seeing on
this pin," please don't hesitate to give me a shout. I may not be able to
answer immediately but surely within a day or two at most.
Good luck to all the builders... keep us posted.
72,
David Maliniak, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJ
2N2/40 #20
|
149|149|2001-08-20 17:08:50|Tom Dufresne|Trimmer caps at Ocean State|I am hunting parts (as I am sure a lot of you are) and found some trimmer
caps at Ocean State. They are 7.0-70pF (for TC1,2,5,6,7,and 8) and 7.0-55pF
for TC4. Would these be good?
More to follow..I'm sure
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspMaybe a little premature question, but I wondered what people are
thinking of putting these wonderful radios inside of?
Del, AD6WE
|
151|149|2001-08-20 17:57:53|Stephen M Smith|Re: Trimmer caps at Ocean State|Tom and group,
Yes, those would be good but I'd recommend those from Dan's Small Parts <
http://www.fix.net/~jparker/dans.html#dan's26 >. Less expensive if you
can wait a bit longer for delivery.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
On Mon, 20 Aug 2001 21:07:56 +0000 "Tom Dufresne" <
tdufres@hotmail.com>
writes:
> I am hunting parts (as I am sure a lot of you are) and found some
> trimmer
> caps at Ocean State. They are 7.0-70pF (for TC1,2,5,6,7,and 8) and
> 7.0-55pF
> for TC4. Would these be good?
> More to follow..I'm sure
> Tom
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Del and group,
Something with a clear plastic top so the handywork can be easilly viewed
without letting drool get in to mess up the circuitry ;-). (Jim K. uses
a net to keep the dropping jaws from hitting his!)
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
On Mon, 20 Aug 2001 21:50:35 -0000 "Delbert Long" <
AD6WE@hotmail.com>
writes:
> Maybe a little premature question, but I wondered what people are
> thinking of putting these wonderful radios inside of?
>
> Del, AD6WE
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.I asked the same question of Jim, K8IQY.
He recommended the Ten-Tec line of enclosures.
73,
Dick K2JQ
-----Original Message-----
From: Delbert Long <
AD6WE@hotmail.com>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Monday, August 20, 2001 5:51 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] enclosures...
>Maybe a little premature question, but I wondered what people are
>thinking of putting these wonderful radios inside of?
Thanx Wilson. Title says it all
Tom
KC0GXX
|
155|150|2001-08-20 19:36:13|Tom Dufresne|Re: enclosures...|Radio Shack makes a neat ~6x8" metal case that looks like it may get my nod.
Probably a lot less costlier (is that a word?) than Ten Tec?
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspGang,
I took some time this afternoon to build a small test circuit
that will allow me to measure the capacitance of varicap diodes
on my AADE capacitance meter. This little circuit isn't perfect,
but it does quite well and lets you look at the capacitance change
as the reverse bias voltage is changed. What I found out is that
the MV1662 varicap diodes being sold by Hosfelt Electronics are
almost identical to the infamous, and obsolete MVAM108 diodes you
see in so many old circuits. As such, these diodes will work
in place of the MVAM108 or MVAM109 diode. The thing that was
a bit misleading on the MV1662s is that their capacitance is
specified at -4 volts, instead of -1 volt which is typical for
most common varicap diodes. When you bias a MVAM108/109 to
-4 volts, its capacitance is almost identical to the MV1662.
My next experiment is to use a pair of the MV1662 diodes in the
variable bandwidth filter in place of the MV2115 diodes that
are currently there in my 2N2/40+. I'll have to limit the
voltage going to the MV1662s, as I only want a maximum capacitance
of 275 to 300pF, and a minimum around 100 to 110pF. That should
move the filter response from 250 Hz out to 750 Hz. I'll report
tomorrow sometime on the results. Looks like the easiest way
to get the two voltage limits, ~2 and ~4 volts, is to use a pair of
LEDs in series and tap the width pot off the upper and middle
connection of this series pair. On paper it looks correct! :-)
72 and stay tuned.
Jim, K8IQY
|
157|149|2001-08-20 20:41:05|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Trimmer caps at Ocean State|At 09:07 PM 8/20/01 +0000, you wrote:
>I am hunting parts (as I am sure a lot of you are) and found some trimmer
>caps at Ocean State. They are 7.0-70pF (for TC1,2,5,6,7,and 8) and 7.0-55pF
>for TC4. Would these be good?
>More to follow..I'm sure
>Tom
Tom,
Yes, the 7-70pF trimmer can be used anywhere in the rig. Don't
fool with the odd value, it's not necessary.
I also use a lot of the 9-50pF trimmer capacitors that Jameco
sells. These are actually 5-70pF as my AADE measures them,
and really rather inexpensive when you buy them by the 100 lot.
Not overly pricey at quantities of 10 either. They are advertised
as 5 mm units; Jameco part number 136979.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
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I also am planning to get TT enclosures for this 2N2 40 and for the Georgia
Sierra I am also working on. They do an excellent job with their metal
cabinetry.
73
Ed
N4EJG
|
159|150|2001-08-20 21:26:03|camqrp@cyberg8t.com|Re: enclosures...|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Delbert Long"
wrote:
> Maybe a little premature question, but I wondered what people are
> thinking of putting these wonderful radios inside of?
>
> Del, AD6WE
Most defunct modems have usuable cases.
I have a good collection of them which I harvested from local
swapmeets. There's one particular extruded aluminum case which would
be really cute (a primary consideration) but a tad small.
Maybe it'll work for my second 2N2, once I've mastered the building
technique!
-Cam N6GAJim,
How about letting us know what your lashup is for measuring with the
LC-II. I tried that once by feeding my variable D.C. supply through an
R.F. choke and a current limiting resistor and clipping the meter across
the varicap. I also tried a large (.01) cap to couple one side of the
meter to the diode for isolation. Neither method was succesful for me.
TNX
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
________________________________________________________________
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http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Hi John,
I would be interested in the parts package. Please advise the cost and when
to send!
Thanks for the hard work and I am looking forward to a great and fun
experience!
72 de K4TJD Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2001 15:54 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] audio transformers are in
Gang,
The audio transformers from Steve, WB6TNL have arrived. I'm awaiting
other donated parts from others. When they've all arrived I'm going to
start asking what else we need to bulk order. I'm thinking that a lot of
us will be needing capacitors (some have already been donated). I'm
going to order the MV1662's and someone has already ordered the MVAM's.
As I mentioned before, Jim, K8IQY will be offering matching sets of
xtals. Please wait for further notice from him on their availability.
So far I have had about 20 positive responses from people who will be
building and most of them indicated they will need parts. Please email
me directly if you have not done so already and will be needing parts.
We'll order extras but I want to keep the excess to a minimum.
Ken, KG4FGC will be assisting in the kiting of whatever I end up with
and mailing the parts out.
Someone asked about what time frame I was aiming for to start building.
I am personally hoping to have all the parts orders wrapped up by the
end of August and stuff mailed out the first or second week of september
and building shortly thereafter. That might be a little ambitious - we
shall see.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Has anyone built a 2n2/40 Using the he Dan's Small Parts kit? This kit was available I think earlier last year and I actually bought a couple of them. I didn't build because I hadn't yet collected the requisite tools and test equipment at the time. BTW, I was a very in-active ham until a buddy of mine, Serge VA3SB, showed me the 2n2/40 Norcal article when it came out a couple years back. I also bought a matched set of crystals around that time from Jim K. and I started putting a workshop together.
Getting down to business....I wasn't too happy with some of the parts I received from Dans but I guess its understandable given the low price and the surplus nature if the inventory they carry. The SM caps are the bulky rectangles that look like dominoes. They're probably fairly old too. I'm not sure of the quality of the NPO's either. In fairness to Dan's, I'm sure they will work fine, but for this kind of project, "new" may work better: less bulky on the board and perhaps better stability.
Bottom line: if anyone in the US is buying new caps for this rig, I would be interested in getting on a group purchase. Please let me know.
OT....in the summer I'm too preoccupied with motorcycling and golf etc. , but when colder wx comes and snow is on the ground, I'm at the work bench. If you have a higher BW connection, or a patient downloader, check out photos of the previous cold season soldering at
http://pages.infinit.net/va3kv/ Thanks for the BW and your help
Jim
VA3KV
Rockland Ontario
At 06:21 PM 8/20/01 -0700, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>How about letting us know what your lashup is for measuring with the
>LC-II. I tried that once by feeding my variable D.C. supply through an
>R.F. choke and a current limiting resistor and clipping the meter across
>the varicap. I also tried a large (.01) cap to couple one side of the
>meter to the diode for isolation. Neither method was succesful for me.
>TNX
>
>73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
> WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
Steve,
That's approximately what I did, and it seems to work reasonably
well, although, the presence of the inductor to isolate
the DC supply causes the LC-II to think the varicap isn't
a capacitor at low capacitance values. That results in
about a 30-50pF error at the maximum capacity end, but good
enough for general testing, and I know the magnitude of the
error. I'll draw up the schematic and take a couple of
pix of the little board and post them on the 2N2-40 site.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hmmm, I think I will depart from the usual and mount mine in a wood
cabinet with either aluminum or formica front and rear panels and of
course a plexiglass top! I will take pics as it progresses!
72/73 Dennis - WB0WAO
|
165|147|2001-08-21 08:23:25|Kenneth Hoglund|Re: Some Suggestions for Builders (longish)|Mike---
Thanks for some really great insights into ways to make the task easier. You
mentioned needing "larger" pads than the usual small sized ones: want to
offer some suggestions on approx. size? I'm cutting some board materials with
a small saw, and can 'customize' my pads accordingly.
Thanks again for sharing some wonderful ideas.
73
Ken KG4FGC
|
166|166|2001-08-21 11:59:34|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Varicap Diode Tester|Gang,
The schematic and 3 pictures of the varicap diode tester
that I mentioned yesterday are now in an album on the
Yahoo 2n2-40 site. You'll notice that this little
tester is built Manhattan-style. However, it doesn't
use any 2N2222 transistors!! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
167|167|2001-08-21 12:53:13|Tom Dufresne|Xtals and testing|I have two questions.
1) Mouser has 4.9152 xtals, and they have HC-49U type. Should I get the
"series" or "20pF" versions? They are asking $0.47/ea.
2) How do I "match" xtals? IS there a simple way to do this? Simple=newbie
:)
Thanks
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspWhat is the preferred pad configuration for this project - round pads from a punch, or little rectangles from a nibbler? Or does it really matter?
Thanks...Del, AD6WE
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
169|169|2001-08-21 18:48:21|Jake Carter, N4UY|Ten Tec enclosure discount prices|Ten Tec gives a price discount on their enclosures if you buy one of
their "fun kits". For example the price of the TP47 enclosure is
usually $14.37 but its cut to $8.74 if you buy a kit. In fact you
can order as many enclosures as you want -- just buy one "fun kit".
The info is at the bottom of this Ten Tec web page
http://www.tentec.com/tkit.htm#model1056 I've placed several orders for kits and enclosures. Last time I
ordered the Transmatch Tuning Bridge kit for $17.00 and ordered 7
enclosures :-) Kind of like getting the enclosures cheap and the
kit for free.
73,
Jake -- N4UY
Hi John. Keith here in the Depths of the Great Bergen Swamp.
Selecting a cap is mostly a case of figuring out the impedance of the
circuit in question and then selecting a capacitor value to do what you
want.
For example: A bypass cap, used to delouse a DC line and keep the RF
where it's supposed to be should have a very low "resistance" to the RF,
so the lower the Xc the better, but up to a point.
There are cases where multiple bypass caps are used, each one bypassing a
particular range. A PA circuit could have a .001 uF, a 0.1 uF and a 10uF
on the Vcc line, to bypass the RF, cut low frequency spurs and low
frequency oscillation(s). A good book that covers the theory behind this
is "Solid State Design for the Radio Amateur" available from the ARRL.
If the cap is a blocking cap, one that "blocks" DC but passes RF, you
would want a low value of Xc at the operating frequency. 0.001 to 0.1
for MF and HF energy, 0.1 to 100uF for audio and 0.1 pF to 100 pF for
VHF/UHF/SHF.
Really, the values are not all that critical outside of filters and
oscillators.
73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Technical Coordinator, WNY Section, ARRL
ARRL Life Member, President/Brockport Amateur Radio Klub
Ph - 716.494.1239
mailto:
wb2vuo@arrl.net ________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Gang,
The new variable bandwidth filter for the 2N2/40 using
MV1662 varicaps as replacements for the MV2115 units
works great! The design bandwidths were 750 Hz at
the wide setting and 250 Hz at the narrow. A quick
measurement shows the filter to be near those limits.
With the first iteration supply voltage setup, I got
680 Hz wide and 230 Hz narrow. I've changed the
two LEDs to units with slightly more forward drop,
very close to 2 volts per unit, and expect the filter
will be even closer to the design bogies.
A schematic, pictures, and Spectrum Analyzer plots
tomorrow. I'm also going to build a fixed 475 Hz
4 pole filter for those who want to keep it simple, and
have significantly better opposite sideband rejection.
My plan is to offer either version of the filter as a
parts kit complete except for the pads and solder! That
is if I can find a source for everything, but I'm confident
I can. Let me know if you would be interested by responding
directly to me. That will give me a preliminary estimate of
how many of each style kit I'd have to put together. The
cost will be reasonable, and any excess will go to charity.
72 and I hope you're as excited about all of this as I am!
Jim, K8IQY
|
172|167|2001-08-21 22:02:13|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Xtals and testing|At 04:46 PM 8/21/01 +0000, you wrote:
>I have two questions.
>1) Mouser has 4.9152 xtals, and they have HC-49U type. Should I get the
>"series" or "20pF" versions? They are asking $0.47/ea.
Get the series units Tom, and given a choice, I'd buy Vishay-Dale
units, part number 73-XT49U-491-S. The reason is that those are
the units around which the filter(s) were/are designed. I have no
idea how another manufacturers crystals match up with the Vishay
units.
>2) How do I "match" xtals? IS there a simple way to do this? Simple=newbie
>:)
In my opinion no, there isn't an easy way that I have tried that
can beat driving the crystal with a signal generator through a
very low impedance source and load, and finding the signal peak
with a suitable detector attached across the load. All of the
oscillator techniques I've tried don't correlate well to each
other, nor to driving the crystal as described earlier. However,
while I've not tried this, I think the signal generator can be
a VXO that uses one of the crystals from a set as a standard, and
drives your test circuit like a precision generator would. You
would need a good counter on the output of that VXO to know
at what frequency each crystal peaks. Sorting the crystals that
way will probably give you a very well matched set, and result
in a good filter.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 12:12 PM 8/21/01 -0700, you wrote:
>What is the preferred pad configuration for this project - round pads from
>a punch, or little rectangles from a nibbler? Or does it really matter?
It doesn't matter at all Del. When I built the second 2N2/40
rig for the QRPp article, I used 3/16 inch diameter round pads
for the receiver, and 3/32 X 1/4 inch rectangular pads for the
transmit circuits. The round pads were made with a Harbor Freight
punch, and the rectangular pads with an ADEL nibbling tool.
I normally built with 1/8 inch diameter round pads these days,
but occasionally use rectangular pads that are 3/32 X 3/8 or
1/2 inch for special areas like crystal filters, where I try to
keep everything close together.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Count me in! "In for a dollar..."
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 2:20 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] New variable bandwidth filter design
> Gang,
>
> The new variable bandwidth filter for the 2N2/40 using
> MV1662 varicaps as replacements for the MV2115 units
> works great! The design bandwidths were 750 Hz at
> the wide setting and 250 Hz at the narrow. A quick
> measurement shows the filter to be near those limits.
> With the first iteration supply voltage setup, I got
> 680 Hz wide and 230 Hz narrow. I've changed the
> two LEDs to units with slightly more forward drop,
> very close to 2 volts per unit, and expect the filter
> will be even closer to the design bogies.
>
> A schematic, pictures, and Spectrum Analyzer plots
> tomorrow. I'm also going to build a fixed 475 Hz
> 4 pole filter for those who want to keep it simple, and
> have significantly better opposite sideband rejection.
>
> My plan is to offer either version of the filter as a
> parts kit complete except for the pads and solder! That
> is if I can find a source for everything, but I'm confident
> I can. Let me know if you would be interested by responding
> directly to me. That will give me a preliminary estimate of
> how many of each style kit I'd have to put together. The
> cost will be reasonable, and any excess will go to charity.
>
> 72 and I hope you're as excited about all of this as I am!
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Jim:
Thanks for the tip. BTW, what would happen if ol' Tom just gets, say 6 xtals
and just solders 'em in-no matching or nuthin'. I know I may loose
something, but would it be a major loss? Dunno if this newbie can figure out
the signal generator-load-signal peak etc thing. Too bad I couldn't just
weigh 'em or something.. (j/k)
Thanks agn
Tom
|
176|171|2001-08-21 23:15:47|james-rhonda@juno.com|Re: New variable bandwidth filter design|Hello Jim,
I would be interested in the variable filter parts kit.
Thanks James KC5HAC
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Jim, Put me down for the new variable bandwidth filter kit and Im
waiting to see the circuit..At 09:20 PM 8/21/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>The new variable bandwidth filter for the 2N2/40 using
>MV1662 varicaps as replacements for the MV2115 units
>works great! The design bandwidths were 750 Hz at
>the wide setting and 250 Hz at the narrow. A quick
>measurement shows the filter to be near those limits.
>With the first iteration supply voltage setup, I got
>680 Hz wide and 230 Hz narrow. I've changed the
>two LEDs to units with slightly more forward drop,
>very close to 2 volts per unit, and expect the filter
>will be even closer to the design bogies.
>
>A schematic, pictures, and Spectrum Analyzer plots
>tomorrow. I'm also going to build a fixed 475 Hz
>4 pole filter for those who want to keep it simple, and
>have significantly better opposite sideband rejection.
>
>My plan is to offer either version of the filter as a
>parts kit complete except for the pads and solder! That
>is if I can find a source for everything, but I'm confident
>I can. Let me know if you would be interested by responding
>directly to me. That will give me a preliminary estimate of
>how many of each style kit I'd have to put together. The
>cost will be reasonable, and any excess will go to charity.
>
>72 and I hope you're as excited about all of this as I am!
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
Jim, put me down for the new filter kit. After this is all said and done, it
sounds like, you could be re-doing the QRPp article. Think about it. It's a
good thing you are retired.
72
Les Bearl, N0PPF
|
179|167|2001-08-22 09:09:25|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Xtals and testing|At 02:24 AM 8/22/01 +0100, you wrote:
>Jim:
Hi Tom,
>Thanks for the tip. BTW, what would happen if ol' Tom just gets, say 6 xtals
>and just solders 'em in-no matching or nuthin'. I know I may loose
>something, but would it be a major loss?
You probably don't want to do that if you expect your 2N2/40
to be a decent receiver. The problem with just buying 6
crystals is they will be distributed randomally over the
frequency tolerance range, which for the 4.9152 MHz unit is
approximately +/- 250 Hz. If the filter is to work correctly,
that is, have the correct passband width, and not have big lumps
in the response curve, all of the crystals should be at exactly
the same frequency. That's not possible, but with a bit of
care they can all be within +/- 5 Hz, a marked improvement
over doing the job with a random set. If you want to take that
approach, use crystals that have the tightest frequency
tolerance, such as those from FOX, which are specified at
30 PPM, not the 50 PPM for Vishay or ECS units.
> Dunno if this newbie can figure out
>the signal generator-load-signal peak etc thing. Too bad I couldn't just
>weigh 'em or something.. (j/k)
Sorry, but it doesn't work that way with crystal filters. I wish
it did, it would make life easier for all of us!! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
SoCal 2N2'ers!
Let's get together for an eyeball at the TRW swap meet in Redondo Beach
this Saturday, Aug. 25.
We could gather at Sam Imai's booth (popular QRP meeting spot) at say,
10:00 A.M. and get to know each other. I might bring some 2N2 parts to
give away!
What say? Let me know privately by e-mail if you can make it and I'll
forward a list of the respondants to the others.
Again, Please respond OFF LIST!!
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Count me as a purchaser! Thanks for the effort.
73 de Lee, KM4YY
Abstainer: a weak person who yields to the temptation of denying himself a
pleasure.
--Ambrose Bierce
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 9:20 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] New variable bandwidth filter design
> Gang,
>
> The new variable bandwidth filter for the 2N2/40 using
> MV1662 varicaps as replacements for the MV2115 units
> works great! The design bandwidths were 750 Hz at
> the wide setting and 250 Hz at the narrow. A quick
> measurement shows the filter to be near those limits.
> With the first iteration supply voltage setup, I got
> 680 Hz wide and 230 Hz narrow. I've changed the
> two LEDs to units with slightly more forward drop,
> very close to 2 volts per unit, and expect the filter
> will be even closer to the design bogies.
>
> A schematic, pictures, and Spectrum Analyzer plots
> tomorrow. I'm also going to build a fixed 475 Hz
> 4 pole filter for those who want to keep it simple, and
> have significantly better opposite sideband rejection.
>
> My plan is to offer either version of the filter as a
> parts kit complete except for the pads and solder! That
> is if I can find a source for everything, but I'm confident
> I can. Let me know if you would be interested by responding
> directly to me. That will give me a preliminary estimate of
> how many of each style kit I'd have to put together. The
> cost will be reasonable, and any excess will go to charity.
>
> 72 and I hope you're as excited about all of this as I am!
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Gang,
I've just posted the schematic and three spectrum plots
to this site for the redesigned variable bandwidth filter
using MV1662 varicap diodes.
Go check it out as you have the time and interest.
Now on to prototyping the 4 pole filter that I mentioned
earlier. News at 11:00! This is getting to be lots
of fun too.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
184|183|2001-08-22 11:55:22|dmaliniak@penton.com|Re: New variable BW filter info now posted|--- In 2n2-40@y..., jokortge@p... wrote:
> Gang,
>
> I've just posted the schematic and three spectrum plots
> to this site for the redesigned variable bandwidth filter
> using MV1662 varicap diodes.
>
> Go check it out as you have the time and interest.
>
> Now on to prototyping the 4 pole filter that I mentioned
> earlier. News at 11:00! This is getting to be lots
> of fun too.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Jim:
Thanks much for posting the revised filter schematic. Looks like
something I'll want to try in my rig.
One thing that confuses me in the revision, though, is the lack of a
connection from the bottom of POT1 into the IF amp. Is this
connection
no longer necessary in the new scheme?
72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJ
In a message dated Wed, 22 Aug 2001 10:37:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "Lee S. Mairs" <
lmairs@cox.rr.com> writes:
> Count me as a purchaser! Thanks for the effort.
> 73 de Lee, KM4YY
>
Jim, are you keeping a list, or should we simply wait until you make them available? I definately want one. The variable filter in the W8DIZ put in the MP-20 is WONDERFUL, so I'm expecting this will be WELL worth the addition to the 2n2. THANKS!
BTW, I built one of these before, and learned a ton doing so. I'm doing it again to learn more and improve my parts placement. On the first one, I started with the parts packaged from Dan's Small Parts, but kinda upgraded critical componants, eg. the matched crystals Jim provides offer a DRAMATIC difference in performance.
At 03:48 PM 8/22/01 +0000, David, AD2A wrote:
>Jim:
>
>Thanks much for posting the revised filter schematic. Looks like
>something I'll want to try in my rig.
>
>One thing that confuses me in the revision, though, is the lack of a
>connection from the bottom of POT1 into the IF amp. Is this
>connection
>no longer necessary in the new scheme?
Dave,
In the original schematic, the bottom of POT1 was grounded. As
shown on the schematic, it shared a ground symbol with a base
bias resistor and bypass capacitor for transistor Q6. However,
that was shown that way to conserve space in the schematic drawing.
The lower end of POT1 should be grounded in the original filter
configuration.
In the new configuration, the lower end of POT1
goes to the junction of the two LEDs, which sets the lower voltage
level on the pot to about 2 volts. The highest voltage on the pot
is about 4 volts, the series drop across the two LEDs. Therefore,
the voltage on the wiper varies from 4 volts down to 2 volts with
respect to ground. On the original circuit, the voltage varied
from 13.8 volt to 0 volts with respect to ground. The voltage range
in the new circuit is restricted because the capacitance change
on the MV1662 is much greater than with the original MV2115.
I hope all of that makes sense, and that I didn't confuse you.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I'm getting lots of private email requesting filter kits.
That's not a problem, but I don't have the time to respond
to everyone individually at this point. Sooooo, if you
sent me an email requesting one or more kits, I have you
on the list. Internet email is reliable, and does get
delivered, but I'm too swamped to answer each one individually.
I wish is were not that way.....
When I have the parts in hand, I'll contact each person
who requested parts, and verify the number and type of
kits you want. If you want several, you can purchase
several. Once I start into this thing, there won't be
anyone who gets left out. That's a promise.
72 and thanks for understanding......
Jim, K8IQY
PS, there are now 2 images of the prototype filter posted to
the Yahoo web site along with the schematic and plots announced
in the earlier post.
|
188|183|2001-08-22 15:42:30|dmaliniak@penton.com|Re: New variable BW filter info now posted|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 03:48 PM 8/22/01 +0000, David, AD2A wrote:
>
> >Jim:
> >
> >Thanks much for posting the revised filter schematic. Looks like
> >something I'll want to try in my rig.
> >
> >One thing that confuses me in the revision, though, is the lack of
a
> >connection from the bottom of POT1 into the IF amp. Is this
> >connection
> >no longer necessary in the new scheme?
>
> Dave,
>
> In the original schematic, the bottom of POT1 was grounded. As
> shown on the schematic, it shared a ground symbol with a base
> bias resistor and bypass capacitor for transistor Q6. However,
> that was shown that way to conserve space in the schematic drawing.
> The lower end of POT1 should be grounded in the original filter
> configuration.
>
> In the new configuration, the lower end of POT1
> goes to the junction of the two LEDs, which sets the lower voltage
> level on the pot to about 2 volts. The highest voltage on the pot
> is about 4 volts, the series drop across the two LEDs. Therefore,
> the voltage on the wiper varies from 4 volts down to 2 volts with
> respect to ground. On the original circuit, the voltage varied
> from 13.8 volt to 0 volts with respect to ground. The voltage range
> in the new circuit is restricted because the capacitance change
> on the MV1662 is much greater than with the original MV2115.
>
> I hope all of that makes sense, and that I didn't confuse you.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Jim:
OK, got it... I overlooked the grounding of the bottom of POT1, and
thanks for clarifying that for me. What I wanted to be sure of is that
C23/R20 to ground from the junction of R21 and Q6's base remains
intact. From your reply, I gather that that's a "yes." I'm good to go
as soon as I can get my hands on a couple of MV1662s.
72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJWhat is the URL for the site where all this info is being posted?
Lee, KM4YY
Diplomacy is the art of saying 'Nice doggie' until you can find a rock.
--Wynn Catlin
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmaliniak@penton.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 11:48 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: New variable BW filter info now posted
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., jokortge@p... wrote:
> > Gang,
> >
> > I've just posted the schematic and three spectrum plots
> > to this site for the redesigned variable bandwidth filter
> > using MV1662 varicap diodes.
> >
> > Go check it out as you have the time and interest.
> >
> > Now on to prototyping the 4 pole filter that I mentioned
> > earlier. News at 11:00! This is getting to be lots
> > of fun too.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
>
> Jim:
>
> Thanks much for posting the revised filter schematic. Looks like
> something I'll want to try in my rig.
>
> One thing that confuses me in the revision, though, is the lack of a
> connection from the bottom of POT1 into the IF amp. Is this
> connection
> no longer necessary in the new scheme?
>
> 72,
> David, AD2A
> Glen Rock, NJ
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Dear Jim
I would be interested in a couple of the new design
filter kits if you don't mind sending them to England. Just let me know the
total cost of the kits and postage when you are in a position to go ahead.
73 de Pete G4GSA.
|
191|183|2001-08-22 17:08:44|Richard Brummer, K2JQ|Re: New variable BW filter info now posted|I believe that the address is
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40 however,
you must be subscribed to Yahoo in order to access it.
This leads me to my question -- can someone help me gain access to the above
address. I have a username and password for Yahoo, but I seem to be going
nowhere fast when it comes to accessing the 2n2/40 group.
Let's do this by private e-mail after, say 2300Z.
TIA & 73,
Dick K2JQ
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee S. Mairs <
lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: New variable BW filter info now posted
>What is the URL for the site where all this info is being posted?
>Lee, KM4YY
Paul Harden, NA5N, posted this message on qrp-l. I thought I would repost
it on the 2N2-40 list for the benefit of those who have not seen it.
Dick K2JQ
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Harden, NA5N <
na5n@rt66.com>
To: Low Power Amateur Radio Discussion <
qrp-l@Lehigh.EDU>
Date: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 4:59 PM
Subject: 2N2/40 Book: Errors & corrections
>Gang,
>We've mailed out about 20 2N2/40 books so far this week for those getting
>ready to build the 2N2/40. However, I failed to enclose an addendum sheet
>with the noted errors detected by the designer (Jim K8IQY), the drawing
>guy (me) and a few builders. So here they are for anyone that wishes to
>update their 2N2/40 book, or the original Winter 1998 QRPp construction
>article. Page numbers refers to either version.
>
>---------------
>PEN AND INK CHANGES TO THE 2N2/40 BOOK OR WINTER 1998 QRPp
>
>1. T-R SWITCH, page 17.
> *Missing ID: the .01uF cap on the KEY jack is C68
>
> *4.7uF C67 is omitted from the drawing. The (-) lead goes to ground
> and the (+) lead goes to the pad with R60, C66, R59.
>
>2. THE VFO, PAGE 19
> *C7 missing from drawing. Add 0.2uF C7 from the pad with R5/"VCC4"/
> "VCC5" wires to ground.
>
>3. FRONT END, page 23.
> *Wire "4" from toroid T1 missing from drawing. Draw the wire from
> the toroid to the pad with TC1/C1.
>
>4. AUDIO AMPLIFIER, page 31
> *Orientation of Q12 is incorrectly drawn.
> Orientation is the same as Q13, that is, the collector goes to T10
> and the emitter to the pad with R38.
>
> *The electrolytic from above pad (R38/Q12 emitter) is C40, not C38.
>
>5. TX AMPLIFIER, page 35
> *Toroidal transformers T12 and T13 are wound on T37-2 cores
> (not FT37-2 as shown on the drawing)
>
>6. THE PA STAGE, page 37
> *TX driver transistor Q17 should be a TO-18 (metal can) 2N2222
> with a heat sink for best performance.
>
> *Three capacitors are mislabled:
> Cap from Q20 to ground should be C64 (not C62)
> Cap from Q19 to ground should be C62 (not C61)
> Cap from "W17" antenna to ground should be C65 (not C56)
>
>If you notice anything else from your building experience, please let
>me know.
>
>GL es 72, Paul NA5N
>
>
2n2'ers,
Just wanted to give y'all an update on where we're at with parts buys
and a general status.
As you've seen, Jim Kortge, K8IQY is going to get to do a run of
matching crystals and is working on various mods of the filter. He has
asked those interested to contact him directly.
Here is what I have so far:
Ordered 100 MV1662 diodes (enough for 50 builders). Someone else has
ordered the MVAM109's (would that person please contact me, I lost your
original email).
Steve, WB6TBL sent me 100(!) audio transformers (T10), so we are all set
there.
Jake, N4UY sent 75 2N7000 FET's for the modified mute circuit.
Dennis, WB0WAO is sending me enough Zener diodes for everyone (I believe
50 of each type).
K8IQY is sending 120 1000pF poly caps for the VFO's (2 ea).
Brian Murrey, KB9BVN is sending 150 .01 caps.
Toroids:
I have mailed out the 5 extra T50-7's that I had. Walt, N6XG
wwham@earthlink.net mentioned that he had 8 T50-7's available - don't
know his status. These toroids are fairly hard to find, if you have some
extra, please make them available to the group.
P2N2222A's:
Brian Murrey, KB9BVN <
brian@iquest.net> has offered 250 of these (20 per
builder) for free. I added 50 to that and have sent out 20 so far. These
are not planned for a general group buy.
Metal 2N2222's:
We still need someone to do a group buy of these. If someone wants to
take care of this and send them to me for inclussion in the parts I'm
kiting, that would be great. Heat sinks for these would be good too.
Caps:
There is something in the works for a cap kit for the rig. More on that
later.
POTS:
Also have something in the works here.
Resistors:
Nothing planned - Radio Shack should have all you need. If someone wants
to gauge the interest of a group buy, by all means...
How many builders? - I've had positive replies from 43 people who intend
to buy parts. I am planning on having enough of what I'm gathering to
supply 50. So if you are going to do a group buy, I would buy for 50.
If you do a bulk order: I have inserted myself here as the middleman for
parts. Before saying more, let me say this: you can offer the parts to
the group yourself and handle the mailing of them to each individual if
you like - not a problem! However, I've already accumulated some parts
and have more coming. Just let me know how much the parts + shipping
cost you and send me the parts for inclussion in what I've got gathered
up. I will add in your costs to the total and gather the money from
everyone else, ultimately reimbursing you for your expenses.
A date:
I'd like to set a date of Oct 1 to have all the parts in place and start
building. That should give us all plenty of time to wrap things up. This
is open for discussion, so let your opinion be heard if you feel
strongly one way or the other about this. Of course, nobody has to do
anything at anytime they don't want to - but part of the fun of a group
build is we would all be in approximately the same place at the same
time and can help each other.
Thanks all and thanks for all the positive email and support.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/ Is the address of the groups website - look in the Files and/or Photos
section. You must be a member of Yahoo Groups (it's free) to use the
site. I would request that anyone doing the build or actively involved
join Yahoo and use the site.
73 de John, N1QO
"Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
>
> What is the URL for the site where all this info is being posted?
> Lee, KM4YY
>
> Diplomacy is the art of saying 'Nice doggie' until you can find a rock.
> --Wynn Catlin
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dmaliniak@penton.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 11:48 AM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: New variable BW filter info now posted
>
> > --- In 2n2-40@y..., jokortge@p... wrote:
> > > Gang,
> > >
> > > I've just posted the schematic and three spectrum plots
> > > to this site for the redesigned variable bandwidth filter
> > > using MV1662 varicap diodes.
> > >
> > > Go check it out as you have the time and interest.
> > >
> > > Now on to prototyping the 4 pole filter that I mentioned
> > > earlier. News at 11:00! This is getting to be lots
> > > of fun too.
> > >
> > > 72,
> > >
> > > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> > Jim:
> >
> > Thanks much for posting the revised filter schematic. Looks like
> > something I'll want to try in my rig.
> >
> > One thing that confuses me in the revision, though, is the lack of a
> > connection from the bottom of POT1 into the IF amp. Is this
> > connection
> > no longer necessary in the new scheme?
> >
> > 72,
> > David, AD2A
> > Glen Rock, NJ
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com |
195|193|2001-08-22 17:42:03|Mike Malone|Re: UPDATE: Parts being worked on|Hey John, its me KD5KXF and I am looking for that thing to get here today.
I will call em back if not here today. 102 109's
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 4:26 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] UPDATE: Parts being worked on
> 2n2'ers,
>
> Just wanted to give y'all an update on where we're at with parts buys
> and a general status.
>
> As you've seen, Jim Kortge, K8IQY is going to get to do a run of
> matching crystals and is working on various mods of the filter. He has
> asked those interested to contact him directly.
>
> Here is what I have so far:
>
> Ordered 100 MV1662 diodes (enough for 50 builders). Someone else has
> ordered the MVAM109's (would that person please contact me, I lost your
> original email).
>
> Steve, WB6TBL sent me 100(!) audio transformers (T10), so we are all set
> there.
>
> Jake, N4UY sent 75 2N7000 FET's for the modified mute circuit.
>
> Dennis, WB0WAO is sending me enough Zener diodes for everyone (I believe
> 50 of each type).
>
> K8IQY is sending 120 1000pF poly caps for the VFO's (2 ea).
>
> Brian Murrey, KB9BVN is sending 150 .01 caps.
>
> Toroids:
> I have mailed out the 5 extra T50-7's that I had. Walt, N6XG
> wwham@earthlink.net mentioned that he had 8 T50-7's available - don't
> know his status. These toroids are fairly hard to find, if you have some
> extra, please make them available to the group.
>
> P2N2222A's:
> Brian Murrey, KB9BVN <brian@iquest.net> has offered 250 of these (20 per
> builder) for free. I added 50 to that and have sent out 20 so far. These
> are not planned for a general group buy.
>
> Metal 2N2222's:
> We still need someone to do a group buy of these. If someone wants to
> take care of this and send them to me for inclussion in the parts I'm
> kiting, that would be great. Heat sinks for these would be good too.
>
> Caps:
> There is something in the works for a cap kit for the rig. More on that
> later.
>
> POTS:
> Also have something in the works here.
>
> Resistors:
> Nothing planned - Radio Shack should have all you need. If someone wants
> to gauge the interest of a group buy, by all means...
>
> How many builders? - I've had positive replies from 43 people who intend
> to buy parts. I am planning on having enough of what I'm gathering to
> supply 50. So if you are going to do a group buy, I would buy for 50.
>
> If you do a bulk order: I have inserted myself here as the middleman for
> parts. Before saying more, let me say this: you can offer the parts to
> the group yourself and handle the mailing of them to each individual if
> you like - not a problem! However, I've already accumulated some parts
> and have more coming. Just let me know how much the parts + shipping
> cost you and send me the parts for inclussion in what I've got gathered
> up. I will add in your costs to the total and gather the money from
> everyone else, ultimately reimbursing you for your expenses.
>
> A date:
> I'd like to set a date of Oct 1 to have all the parts in place and start
> building. That should give us all plenty of time to wrap things up. This
> is open for discussion, so let your opinion be heard if you feel
> strongly one way or the other about this. Of course, nobody has to do
> anything at anytime they don't want to - but part of the fun of a group
> build is we would all be in approximately the same place at the same
> time and can help each other.
>
> Thanks all and thanks for all the positive email and support.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
John, You say you have about 50 builders..I see close to 100
in the group, maybe you should post a list of your builders
so we will know if we are on the list....
At 05:26 PM 8/22/01 -0400, you wrote:
>2n2'ers,
>
>Just wanted to give y'all an update on where we're at with parts buys
>and a general status.
>
>As you've seen, Jim Kortge, K8IQY is going to get to do a run of
>matching crystals and is working on various mods of the filter. He has
>asked those interested to contact him directly.
>
>Here is what I have so far:
>
>Ordered 100 MV1662 diodes (enough for 50 builders). Someone else has
>ordered the MVAM109's (would that person please contact me, I lost your
>original email).
>
>Steve, WB6TBL sent me 100(!) audio transformers (T10), so we are all set
>there.
>
>Jake, N4UY sent 75 2N7000 FET's for the modified mute circuit.
>
>Dennis, WB0WAO is sending me enough Zener diodes for everyone (I believe
>50 of each type).
>
>K8IQY is sending 120 1000pF poly caps for the VFO's (2 ea).
>
>Brian Murrey, KB9BVN is sending 150 .01 caps.
>
>Toroids:
>I have mailed out the 5 extra T50-7's that I had. Walt, N6XG
>wwham@earthlink.net mentioned that he had 8 T50-7's available - don't
>know his status. These toroids are fairly hard to find, if you have some
>extra, please make them available to the group.
>
>P2N2222A's:
>Brian Murrey, KB9BVN <brian@iquest.net> has offered 250 of these (20 per
>builder) for free. I added 50 to that and have sent out 20 so far. These
>are not planned for a general group buy.
>
>Metal 2N2222's:
>We still need someone to do a group buy of these. If someone wants to
>take care of this and send them to me for inclussion in the parts I'm
>kiting, that would be great. Heat sinks for these would be good too.
>
>Caps:
>There is something in the works for a cap kit for the rig. More on that
>later.
>
>POTS:
>Also have something in the works here.
>
>Resistors:
>Nothing planned - Radio Shack should have all you need. If someone wants
>to gauge the interest of a group buy, by all means...
>
>How many builders? - I've had positive replies from 43 people who intend
>to buy parts. I am planning on having enough of what I'm gathering to
>supply 50. So if you are going to do a group buy, I would buy for 50.
>
>If you do a bulk order: I have inserted myself here as the middleman for
>parts. Before saying more, let me say this: you can offer the parts to
>the group yourself and handle the mailing of them to each individual if
>you like - not a problem! However, I've already accumulated some parts
>and have more coming. Just let me know how much the parts + shipping
>cost you and send me the parts for inclussion in what I've got gathered
>up. I will add in your costs to the total and gather the money from
>everyone else, ultimately reimbursing you for your expenses.
>
>A date:
>I'd like to set a date of Oct 1 to have all the parts in place and start
>building. That should give us all plenty of time to wrap things up. This
>is open for discussion, so let your opinion be heard if you feel
>strongly one way or the other about this. Of course, nobody has to do
>anything at anytime they don't want to - but part of the fun of a group
>build is we would all be in approximately the same place at the same
>time and can help each other.
>
>Thanks all and thanks for all the positive email and support.
>
>73 de John, N1QO
>
>--
>John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
>Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Wes Clopton
5202 Colebrook Dr
La Plata, MD 20646
As John alluded to, he and I have been trading ideas for the various
components, and I'm ready to offer a group buy on the caps. What makes
the most sense to me is that as a group we pick up any of the caps that
are out of the ordinary and rebundle in the needed quantities for each
builder.
The caps involved would be:
--all the NPO's (22 if I counted the schematic/parts list correctly)
--1 of the polys (.001mF have been donated to the cause)
--all the silver-micas (3 )
--all the electrolytics (3)
A total of 29 caps. Not sure we'll see a huge monetary savings, but sure
would be more convenient for all of us...well, maybe not me! But why
should 40 or so of us order the same thing when just one can do it?
The remaining caps are normal ceramic types, available at the local
Radio Shack or wherever. Of these the only one I can see might be
reasonably accomodated in a group effort is the .2mF value--about 18 are
needed.
I'll price the kit at whatever it costs plus s&h from me to you. My
interest is in helping John, and getting the caps I need for my rig.
So here's what you need to do: are you interested in the "basic" cap
kit? If yes, then are you also interested in getting a quantity of the
.2mF as well? Send me an email with the answers to these vital
questions, and I'll place an order on Monday.
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me directly.
73
Ken Hoglund KG4FGC
|
198|193|2001-08-22 19:51:47|John Wagner|Re: UPDATE: Parts being worked on|Wes et al;
If you previously sent me email asking to be in on group buys, you're on
the list. I'd publish "the list" but it's just a folder in my email
client and cutting and pasting 43 names isn't something I want to do
right now. ;)
I realize the Yahoo group looks pretty large, but there are a lot of
folks on board who have already built the radio and are just hanging out
waiting to help. There are a number of people who are just curious and
some that already have parts. I really appreciate all the participation
- I think it's a testament to the spirit of QRP and Ham Radio that there
are so many willing to help. This is a great hobby and QRP'ers are among
the best of the bunch.
So again, the short answer is if you sent me email asking to be in the
group buys, you're among the 43. If we end up with people who need
parts, I'm pretty positive that we can pull together and get those
people kitted up.
73 de John, N1QO
Wes Clopton wrote:
>
> John, You say you have about 50 builders..I see close to 100
> in the group, maybe you should post a list of your builders
> so we will know if we are on the list....
>
> At 05:26 PM 8/22/01 -0400, you wrote:
> >2n2'ers,
> >
> >Just wanted to give y'all an update on where we're at with parts buys
> >and a general status.
> >
> >As you've seen, Jim Kortge, K8IQY is going to get to do a run of
> >matching crystals and is working on various mods of the filter. He has
> >asked those interested to contact him directly.
> >
> >Here is what I have so far:
> >
> >Ordered 100 MV1662 diodes (enough for 50 builders). Someone else has
> >ordered the MVAM109's (would that person please contact me, I lost your
> >original email).
> >
> >Steve, WB6TBL sent me 100(!) audio transformers (T10), so we are all set
> >there.
> >
> >Jake, N4UY sent 75 2N7000 FET's for the modified mute circuit.
> >
> >Dennis, WB0WAO is sending me enough Zener diodes for everyone (I believe
> >50 of each type).
> >
> >K8IQY is sending 120 1000pF poly caps for the VFO's (2 ea).
> >
> >Brian Murrey, KB9BVN is sending 150 .01 caps.
> >
> >Toroids:
> >I have mailed out the 5 extra T50-7's that I had. Walt, N6XG
> >wwham@earthlink.net mentioned that he had 8 T50-7's available - don't
> >know his status. These toroids are fairly hard to find, if you have some
> >extra, please make them available to the group.
> >
> >P2N2222A's:
> >Brian Murrey, KB9BVN <brian@iquest.net> has offered 250 of these (20 per
> >builder) for free. I added 50 to that and have sent out 20 so far. These
> >are not planned for a general group buy.
> >
> >Metal 2N2222's:
> >We still need someone to do a group buy of these. If someone wants to
> >take care of this and send them to me for inclussion in the parts I'm
> >kiting, that would be great. Heat sinks for these would be good too.
> >
> >Caps:
> >There is something in the works for a cap kit for the rig. More on that
> >later.
> >
> >POTS:
> >Also have something in the works here.
> >
> >Resistors:
> >Nothing planned - Radio Shack should have all you need. If someone wants
> >to gauge the interest of a group buy, by all means...
> >
> >How many builders? - I've had positive replies from 43 people who intend
> >to buy parts. I am planning on having enough of what I'm gathering to
> >supply 50. So if you are going to do a group buy, I would buy for 50.
> >
> >If you do a bulk order: I have inserted myself here as the middleman for
> >parts. Before saying more, let me say this: you can offer the parts to
> >the group yourself and handle the mailing of them to each individual if
> >you like - not a problem! However, I've already accumulated some parts
> >and have more coming. Just let me know how much the parts + shipping
> >cost you and send me the parts for inclussion in what I've got gathered
> >up. I will add in your costs to the total and gather the money from
> >everyone else, ultimately reimbursing you for your expenses.
> >
> >A date:
> >I'd like to set a date of Oct 1 to have all the parts in place and start
> >building. That should give us all plenty of time to wrap things up. This
> >is open for discussion, so let your opinion be heard if you feel
> >strongly one way or the other about this. Of course, nobody has to do
> >anything at anytime they don't want to - but part of the fun of a group
> >build is we would all be in approximately the same place at the same
> >time and can help each other.
> >
> >Thanks all and thanks for all the positive email and support.
> >
> >73 de John, N1QO
> >
> >--
> >John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> >Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> Wes Clopton
> 5202 Colebrook Dr
> La Plata, MD 20646
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThis e-mail references my offer to supply a total of 8 T50-7. So far 4 have
been shipped.
The first 4 e-mails with home addresses to
wwham@earthlink.net will receive
this toroid.
Walt, N6XG
-----Original Message-----
From: john [mailto:john]On Behalf Of John Wagner
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 2:27 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] UPDATE: Parts being worked on
2n2'ers,
Just wanted to give y'all an update on where we're at with parts buys
and a general status.
As you've seen, Jim Kortge, K8IQY is going to get to do a run of
matching crystals and is working on various mods of the filter. He has
asked those interested to contact him directly.
Here is what I have so far:
Ordered 100 MV1662 diodes (enough for 50 builders). Someone else has
ordered the MVAM109's (would that person please contact me, I lost your
original email).
Steve, WB6TBL sent me 100(!) audio transformers (T10), so we are all set
there.
Jake, N4UY sent 75 2N7000 FET's for the modified mute circuit.
Dennis, WB0WAO is sending me enough Zener diodes for everyone (I believe
50 of each type).
K8IQY is sending 120 1000pF poly caps for the VFO's (2 ea).
Brian Murrey, KB9BVN is sending 150 .01 caps.
Toroids:
I have mailed out the 5 extra T50-7's that I had. Walt, N6XG
wwham@earthlink.net mentioned that he had 8 T50-7's available - don't
know his status. These toroids are fairly hard to find, if you have some
extra, please make them available to the group.
P2N2222A's:
Brian Murrey, KB9BVN <
brian@iquest.net> has offered 250 of these (20 per
builder) for free. I added 50 to that and have sent out 20 so far. These
are not planned for a general group buy.
Metal 2N2222's:
We still need someone to do a group buy of these. If someone wants to
take care of this and send them to me for inclussion in the parts I'm
kiting, that would be great. Heat sinks for these would be good too.
Caps:
There is something in the works for a cap kit for the rig. More on that
later.
POTS:
Also have something in the works here.
Resistors:
Nothing planned - Radio Shack should have all you need. If someone wants
to gauge the interest of a group buy, by all means...
How many builders? - I've had positive replies from 43 people who intend
to buy parts. I am planning on having enough of what I'm gathering to
supply 50. So if you are going to do a group buy, I would buy for 50.
If you do a bulk order: I have inserted myself here as the middleman for
parts. Before saying more, let me say this: you can offer the parts to
the group yourself and handle the mailing of them to each individual if
you like - not a problem! However, I've already accumulated some parts
and have more coming. Just let me know how much the parts + shipping
cost you and send me the parts for inclussion in what I've got gathered
up. I will add in your costs to the total and gather the money from
everyone else, ultimately reimbursing you for your expenses.
A date:
I'd like to set a date of Oct 1 to have all the parts in place and start
building. That should give us all plenty of time to wrap things up. This
is open for discussion, so let your opinion be heard if you feel
strongly one way or the other about this. Of course, nobody has to do
anything at anytime they don't want to - but part of the fun of a group
build is we would all be in approximately the same place at the same
time and can help each other.
Thanks all and thanks for all the positive email and support.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Ok, got my address off fast. Now to slow down and say thank you even if
I am not in the group of four. Can I send you postage or something if I
get one?
73, Jim, AL7FS
Walt Wilson wrote:
>
> This e-mail references my offer to supply a total of 8 T50-7. So far 4 have
> been shipped.
> The first 4 e-mails with home addresses to wwham@earthlink.net will receive
> this toroid.
>
> Walt, N6XG
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: john [mailto:john]On Behalf Of John Wagner
> Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 2:27 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] UPDATE: Parts being worked on
>
> 2n2'ers,
>
> Just wanted to give y'all an update on where we're at with parts buys
> and a general status.
>
> As you've seen, Jim Kortge, K8IQY is going to get to do a run of
> matching crystals and is working on various mods of the filter. He has
> asked those interested to contact him directly.
>
> Here is what I have so far:
>
> Ordered 100 MV1662 diodes (enough for 50 builders). Someone else has
> ordered the MVAM109's (would that person please contact me, I lost your
> original email).
>
> Steve, WB6TBL sent me 100(!) audio transformers (T10), so we are all set
> there.
>
> Jake, N4UY sent 75 2N7000 FET's for the modified mute circuit.
>
> Dennis, WB0WAO is sending me enough Zener diodes for everyone (I believe
> 50 of each type).
>
> K8IQY is sending 120 1000pF poly caps for the VFO's (2 ea).
>
> Brian Murrey, KB9BVN is sending 150 .01 caps.
>
> Toroids:
> I have mailed out the 5 extra T50-7's that I had. Walt, N6XG
> wwham@earthlink.net mentioned that he had 8 T50-7's available - don't
> know his status. These toroids are fairly hard to find, if you have some
> extra, please make them available to the group.
>
> P2N2222A's:
> Brian Murrey, KB9BVN <brian@iquest.net> has offered 250 of these (20 per
> builder) for free. I added 50 to that and have sent out 20 so far. These
> are not planned for a general group buy.
>
> Metal 2N2222's:
> We still need someone to do a group buy of these. If someone wants to
> take care of this and send them to me for inclussion in the parts I'm
> kiting, that would be great. Heat sinks for these would be good too.
>
> Caps:
> There is something in the works for a cap kit for the rig. More on that
> later.
>
> POTS:
> Also have something in the works here.
>
> Resistors:
> Nothing planned - Radio Shack should have all you need. If someone wants
> to gauge the interest of a group buy, by all means...
>
> How many builders? - I've had positive replies from 43 people who intend
> to buy parts. I am planning on having enough of what I'm gathering to
> supply 50. So if you are going to do a group buy, I would buy for 50.
>
> If you do a bulk order: I have inserted myself here as the middleman for
> parts. Before saying more, let me say this: you can offer the parts to
> the group yourself and handle the mailing of them to each individual if
> you like - not a problem! However, I've already accumulated some parts
> and have more coming. Just let me know how much the parts + shipping
> cost you and send me the parts for inclussion in what I've got gathered
> up. I will add in your costs to the total and gather the money from
> everyone else, ultimately reimbursing you for your expenses.
>
> A date:
> I'd like to set a date of Oct 1 to have all the parts in place and start
> building. That should give us all plenty of time to wrap things up. This
> is open for discussion, so let your opinion be heard if you feel
> strongly one way or the other about this. Of course, nobody has to do
> anything at anytime they don't want to - but part of the fun of a group
> build is we would all be in approximately the same place at the same
> time and can help each other.
>
> Thanks all and thanks for all the positive email and support.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
Jim Larsen, AL7FS, Anchorage, Alaska
(BP51cc) - 61.101 North, 149.824 West
mailto:
al7fs@arrl.net -
http://www.qsl.net/al7fs/If still available, I would like two!
72 de K4TJD Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walt Wilson" <wwham@earthlink.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 21:35 PM
Subject: RE: [2n2-40] UPDATE: Parts being worked on
This e-mail references my offer to supply a total of 8 T50-7. So far 4 have
been shipped.
The first 4 e-mails with home addresses to wwham@earthlink.net will receive
this toroid.
Walt, N6XG
-----Original Message-----
From: john [mailto:john]On Behalf Of John Wagner
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 2:27 PM
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [2n2-40] UPDATE: Parts being worked on
2n2'ers,
Just wanted to give y'all an update on where we're at with parts buys
and a general status.
As you've seen, Jim Kortge, K8IQY is going to get to do a run of
matching crystals and is working on various mods of the filter. He has
asked those interested to contact him directly.
Here is what I have so far:
Ordered 100 MV1662 diodes (enough for 50 builders). Someone else has
ordered the MVAM109's (would that person please contact me, I lost your
original email).
Steve, WB6TBL sent me 100(!) audio transformers (T10), so we are all set
there.
Jake, N4UY sent 75 2N7000 FET's for the modified mute circuit.
Dennis, WB0WAO is sending me enough Zener diodes for everyone (I believe
50 of each type).
K8IQY is sending 120 1000pF poly caps for the VFO's (2 ea).
Brian Murrey, KB9BVN is sending 150 .01 caps.
Toroids:
I have mailed out the 5 extra T50-7's that I had. Walt, N6XG
wwham@earthlink.net mentioned that he had 8 T50-7's available - don't
know his status. These toroids are fairly hard to find, if you have some
extra, please make them available to the group.
P2N2222A's:
Brian Murrey, KB9BVN <brian@iquest.net> has offered 250 of these (20 per
builder) for free. I added 50 to that and have sent out 20 so far. These
are not planned for a general group buy.
Metal 2N2222's:
We still need someone to do a group buy of these. If someone wants to
take care of this and send them to me for inclussion in the parts I'm
kiting, that would be great. Heat sinks for these would be good too.
Caps:
There is something in the works for a cap kit for the rig. More on that
later.
POTS:
Also have something in the works here.
Resistors:
Nothing planned - Radio Shack should have all you need. If someone wants
to gauge the interest of a group buy, by all means...
How many builders? - I've had positive replies from 43 people who intend
to buy parts. I am planning on having enough of what I'm gathering to
supply 50. So if you are going to do a group buy, I would buy for 50.
If you do a bulk order: I have inserted myself here as the middleman for
parts. Before saying more, let me say this: you can offer the parts to
the group yourself and handle the mailing of them to each individual if
you like - not a problem! However, I've already accumulated some parts
and have more coming. Just let me know how much the parts + shipping
cost you and send me the parts for inclussion in what I've got gathered
up. I will add in your costs to the total and gather the money from
everyone else, ultimately reimbursing you for your expenses.
A date:
I'd like to set a date of Oct 1 to have all the parts in place and start
building. That should give us all plenty of time to wrap things up. This
is open for discussion, so let your opinion be heard if you feel
strongly one way or the other about this. Of course, nobody has to do
anything at anytime they don't want to - but part of the fun of a group
build is we would all be in approximately the same place at the same
time and can help each other.
Thanks all and thanks for all the positive email and support.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I'll participate in this! Thanks Ken!
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
|
203|203|2001-08-22 22:44:14|Kenneth Hoglund|We're Here to Learn, Right?|Thanks for the bunch of you who have already let me know about the caps
kit. Once I get a guage on how many there are of us, I'll get the order
together and in, then let the list know how to get their caps.
Several have asked me all sorts of great questions like what's the
difference between and NPO and a polystyrene, etc. Well, I'm not an EE
(and I don't play one on TV), but there are some great helps out there.
Start with Ian Purdie's excellent web tutorials. Ian presents things
clearly, succinctly, and with some touches of humor. You'll find the
entry point at
http://www.my.integritynet.com.au/purdic/ Another great resource is the ARRL Handbook Chapt.10 "Real-World
Component Characteristics" that goes into detail on what factors in a
design make an NPO more desirable than the normal disk cap.
When starting any homebrew project, I rely on Paul Harden's neat essay,
"The Handyman's Guide to Capacitors" in the QRP Homebrewer, Vol. 2 #1.
I'm sure there are other things out there for understanding different
levels of cap stability and performance.
By the way, the QRP Homebrewer #5 (April 2001) has a great article by
David Maliniak on building our project. Check the NJQRP club website on
how to order back issues: it is worth it!
73
Ken KG4FGC
This seems like a good time to get answers to a few questions that I
keep asking myself. In the QRPp Winter 1998 (2n2/40) issue on page 9 on
"Hints for Toroids" it says "PVC/mylar covered #24 - #30 wire wrap can
also be used, although inductance may vary slightly over coil wire". Is
this slight inductance enough to be of concern?
Can you use both PVC and Enamel coated wire together to keep track of
your wires when constructing the bifilar and trifilar toroids, or will
this cause problems?
How about using #24 and #30 together?
I tried the Green enamel wire from Radio Shack before and the enamel
flaked off as I was winding. The red and gold enamel wire from Radio
Shack seemed to hold up to winding but are of different diameters. I
know that the different diameters will make a change in the inductance in
each wire individually but what happens when they are wrapped together
such as on a bifilar toroid?
Can a secondary and a primary be of different diameters?
One thing that I am trying to get at is that I do not have two of the
same diameter enamel wires of different colors (some very close), and I
know from experience that a toroid with several wires of the same color
is one area where I can really mess up :-).
James Wayne Rue
KC5HAC
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.I am sorry that the T50-7 toroids that I was offering have been
commited. There is no need to send e-mails.
Walt, N6XG
|
206|206|2001-08-23 04:19:25|wb0wao@yahoo.com|Group Buys, Kits, Parts, Etc.|Hey Gang,
Count me in for all of them!
Like John wrote, you can get almost all of the resistors at Radio
Shack in the big 500 piece assortment of 5% 1/4w resistors except the
12, 27, 2.4K, and 47K ones. The 47K ones are a stock item but the 27
and 2.4K ones are "special order" and they dont even list the 12 ohm
ones at all in the catalog. Should be no problem to either parallel
or series up a close equvalent if you don't have them in your
"treasure trove" of parts (unless there is a design reason you
shouldn't). There are plenty of "odd" values in the big bag that are
not used in the circut. So, getting one of the big bags and a pack of
47K's should fix everyone up with the resistors!
I should have the zener's in by the end of the week/first of next
week. I ordered the 6.2v, 15v, and the 33v (Jim's SWR protection mod)
and will have enough for everyone. I will send 'em to John as soon
as I get them.
Has anyone done an updated parts list yet to include the mods we have
so far???
72/73 de WB0WAO
Dennis
|
207|207|2001-08-23 04:43:19|g4gxl@qsl.net|A few T50-7 toroids available|Hi group
If anyone needs a T50-7, I've got about 6 or 7 available.
Email me to
g4gxl@qsl.net if you need one
73 Steve
G4GXL
Wow Jim, You are an ARTIST! Hope mine will look that good!
|
209|209|2001-08-23 08:26:33|Brian|Short|Hi Gang,
I am short one resistor part....the 2.4K model.
Anyone got any spares?? I can not believe this. I have the Norcal resistor
pack and a couple of piles of resistors accumulated from the shack and NO
2.4K resistors. I wonder if I HAD them and lost them.
PS - DO NOT BUY THE METAL 2N2222'S YET. I'll have info tomorrow.
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
|
210|208|2001-08-23 11:33:25|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Pics of VBW Filter|At 08:56 AM 8/23/01 +0000, wb0wao wrote:
>Wow Jim, You are an ARTIST! Hope mine will look that good!
It will if you take some time laying it out and building it
carefully. That's all it takes. I've got no special talents,
just a lot of patience, and the desire to make it look nice.
But, I think that all helps, especially when it won't work,
and you need to go probing around to look at the signals and
figure where the problem(s) is(are).
72 and happy building!
Jim, K8IQY
At 08:26 AM 8/23/01 -0400, Brian, KB9BVN wrote:
>Hi Gang,
>
>I am short one resistor part....the 2.4K model.
Brian and everyone,
I just cranked up the Electronic Workbench model for this part
of the rig, the audio amplifier. Turns out that 2.4K part isn't
all the fussy. The amplifier seems to run fine all the way from
1.8K to 3.9K. So, my advice is to build it using 2.7K for
R40 and R41, and eliminate the pesky 2.4K altogether.
As for the 12 ohm, R65, used in the r.f. amplifier, a 15 ohm will
work here fine, with just a slight reduction in gain. Also,
I've got plans to revise that amplifier circuit with something
that I think will work better, so the 12 ohm value will probably
go away via that route anyway. Only so many hours in the day,
and I'm having trouble keeping up with changes to the design that
I think are appropriate for making the rig even better than the
original design. Stay tuned and thanks for your patience.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
Outstanding....2.7K's I have 4 foot deep.
Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2001 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2.4K resistor (R40 and R41)
> At 08:26 AM 8/23/01 -0400, Brian, KB9BVN wrote:
> >Hi Gang,
> >
> >I am short one resistor part....the 2.4K model.
>
> Brian and everyone,
>
> I just cranked up the Electronic Workbench model for this part
> of the rig, the audio amplifier. Turns out that 2.4K part isn't
> all the fussy. The amplifier seems to run fine all the way from
> 1.8K to 3.9K. So, my advice is to build it using 2.7K for
> R40 and R41, and eliminate the pesky 2.4K altogether.
>
> As for the 12 ohm, R65, used in the r.f. amplifier, a 15 ohm will
> work here fine, with just a slight reduction in gain. Also,
> I've got plans to revise that amplifier circuit with something
> that I think will work better, so the 12 ohm value will probably
> go away via that route anyway. Only so many hours in the day,
> and I'm having trouble keeping up with changes to the design that
> I think are appropriate for making the rig even better than the
> original design. Stay tuned and thanks for your patience.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Gang,
I am looking into group buys on enclosures from Ten-Tec and circuit boards
with a silk-screened parts layout from a different supplier. I'm talking
about purchases of a volume of 50 here.
From a previous group buy with our local club, I have found out that Ten-Tec
prices are somewhat negotiable.
The circuit board will be very helpful to those who have not undertaken
parts layout before.
I will send a subsequent message to see if there is sufficient interest.
"News at 11."
73,
Dick K2JQ
|
214|214|2001-08-23 13:15:42|jokortge@prodigy.net|Alternate 4 pole, 475 Hz, fixed bandwidth filter album|Gang,
I've just created and uploaded data to another photo
album. This one is for a 4 pole, 475 Hz, fixed bandwidth
crystal filter for the 2N2/40. Pictures of the prototype
filter are there, along with the schematic, and two response
plots. The first plot shows the response of this 4 pole
filter by itself, and the second plot is an overlay of
this new filter compared to the variable bandwidth filter,
set to the same bandwidth. The second plot shows the
marked improvement in passband response.
Both of these filters will be offered as a complete kit
of parts after I work out the details.
Now I'm off to look at a better r.f. amplifier for the
front-end. Stay tuned......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
215|214|2001-08-23 13:51:27|dmaliniak@penton.com|Re: Alternate 4 pole, 475 Hz, fixed bandwidth filter album|--- In 2n2-40@y..., jokortge@p... wrote:
> Gang,
>
> I've just created and uploaded data to another photo
> album. This one is for a 4 pole, 475 Hz, fixed bandwidth
> crystal filter for the 2N2/40. Pictures of the prototype
> filter are there, along with the schematic, and two response
> plots. The first plot shows the response of this 4 pole
> filter by itself, and the second plot is an overlay of
> this new filter compared to the variable bandwidth filter,
> set to the same bandwidth. The second plot shows the
> marked improvement in passband response.
>
> Both of these filters will be offered as a complete kit
> of parts after I work out the details.
>
> Now I'm off to look at a better r.f. amplifier for the
> front-end. Stay tuned......
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Jim:
Geez, are you trying to make me have to build *another* one of these
things?!? I'm not sure you want to go there. :-)
All kidding aside... thanks for all your efforts in making an already
good rig better! You're not only helping along the new 2N2/40
builders
but are giving us 2N2/40 owners a lot to look forward to.
72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJ
Hi Ken,
Count me in as well.
Cheers, Hubert
-----Original Message-----
From: Kenneth Hoglund [mailto:
hoglund@wfu.edu]
Sent: 23 August 2001 00:35
To:
2N2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Cap Kit for Project
As John alluded to, he and I have been trading ideas for the various
components, and I'm ready to offer a group buy on the caps. What makes
the most sense to me is that as a group we pick up any of the caps that
are out of the ordinary and rebundle in the needed quantities for each
builder.
The caps involved would be:
--all the NPO's (22 if I counted the schematic/parts list correctly)
--1 of the polys (.001mF have been donated to the cause)
--all the silver-micas (3 )
--all the electrolytics (3)
A total of 29 caps. Not sure we'll see a huge monetary savings, but sure
would be more convenient for all of us...well, maybe not me! But why
should 40 or so of us order the same thing when just one can do it?
The remaining caps are normal ceramic types, available at the local
Radio Shack or wherever. Of these the only one I can see might be
reasonably accomodated in a group effort is the .2mF value--about 18 are
needed.
I'll price the kit at whatever it costs plus s&h from me to you. My
interest is in helping John, and getting the caps I need for my rig.
So here's what you need to do: are you interested in the "basic" cap
kit? If yes, then are you also interested in getting a quantity of the
.2mF as well? Send me an email with the answers to these vital
questions, and I'll place an order on Monday.
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me directly.
73
Ken Hoglund KG4FGC
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Dick:
I m a bit confused. Are you saying you are going to get silk-screened PCB's
for the 2N2-40 rigs? Like
"where-the-holes-are-drilled-and-everything-is-there-all-ya-gotta-do-is-plug-'em-in"
type PCB's? I thought that part of the fun was doing the Manhatten
thingee.....
Just wondered. The PCB's would be cool, don't get me wrong, but....
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspTom,
The boards I'm talking about have the parts layout silk-screened on the
copperclad. They are ready for Manhattan style construction. It is not
"where-the-holes-are-drilled-and-everything-is-there-all-ya-gotta-do-is-plug
-'em-in" type construction.
I was just trying to help those who might not want to handle parts layout
"on their own" ?
More later.........
Dick K2JQ
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Dufresne <
tdufres@hotmail.com>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, August 23, 2001 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] CIRCUIT BOARDS & ENCLOSURES
>Dick:
>I m a bit confused. Are you saying you are going to get silk-screened PCB's
>for the 2N2-40 rigs? Like
>"where-the-holes-are-drilled-and-everything-is-there-all-ya-gotta-do-is-plu
g-'em-in"
>type PCB's? I thought that part of the fun was doing the Manhatten
>thingee.....
>Just wondered. The PCB's would be cool, don't get me wrong, but....
>Tom
Gang,
Several people have mentioned looking into buying POTS, but I don't have
a definite buyer yet. Would the interested parties (i.e. someone doing
the bulk order) please contact me directly so we can coordinate. Thanks.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comKen count me in to buy the cap kit when you put one together.
Ron Hambric
N5SBN
<<<
hubert.smits@btinternet.com 8/23 2:52p >>>
Hi Ken,
Count me in as well.
Cheers, Hubert
-----Original Message-----
From: Kenneth Hoglund [mailto:
hoglund@wfu.edu]
Sent: 23 August 2001 00:35
To:
2N2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Cap Kit for Project
As John alluded to, he and I have been trading ideas for the various
components, and I'm ready to offer a group buy on the caps. What makes
the most sense to me is that as a group we pick up any of the caps that
are out of the ordinary and rebundle in the needed quantities for each
builder.
The caps involved would be:
--all the NPO's (22 if I counted the schematic/parts list correctly)
--1 of the polys (.001mF have been donated to the cause)
--all the silver-micas (3 )
--all the electrolytics (3)
A total of 29 caps. Not sure we'll see a huge monetary savings, but sure
would be more convenient for all of us...well, maybe not me! But why
should 40 or so of us order the same thing when just one can do it?
The remaining caps are normal ceramic types, available at the local
Radio Shack or wherever. Of these the only one I can see might be
reasonably accomodated in a group effort is the .2mF value--about 18 are
needed.
I'll price the kit at whatever it costs plus s&h from me to you. My
interest is in helping John, and getting the caps I need for my rig.
So here's what you need to do: are you interested in the "basic" cap
kit? If yes, then are you also interested in getting a quantity of the
.2mF as well? Send me an email with the answers to these vital
questions, and I'll place an order on Monday.
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me directly.
73
Ken Hoglund KG4FGC
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/If you have access to the Yahoo Groups page for us, I have created a folder
in the BOOKMARKS area that contains web links to many parts and junk
vendors. Kind of handy to have around.
73
=========================================================
KB9BVN NORCAL 2792 FISTS 5695 QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
GRID: EM69WN - Ten Tec Scout - Attic Dipole - 5w
Member of the American Radio Relay League - SOC #400
FISTS Century Club #764/#24 QRP - Flying PIG QRP #-57
=========================================================
|
223|223|2001-08-24 05:11:49|wb0wao@yahoo.com|LED question on VBW Xtal Filter|On the schematic D30 and D31 show as 2.0v LED's. In checking the
specs for LED's in one of my catalogs, they show values of Vf from 1.7
to 2.8 and above (some even show 3 to 4 v). Am I thinking correctly
here that the value of the LED's will determine the spread of the
filter, so I want to make sure that I use a pair of 2.0v LED's and not
1.8's or 2.4's, etc and DEFINATELY not a "mixed pair" i.e., a 2.0v
and a 2.8v LED? Also, how much of a factor is the If (if any) in the
proper functioning of this circut? There are If values of 20, 30, and
40 mA for different 2.0v LED's. The reason I ask this is because I
have a bunch of LED's in the junque box from various "salvaged" items.
If this is a "critical" component, I want to make sure that I have a
"matched pair" to ensure proper operation. I have never used LED's in
this manner before, so I am in the dark about this (no pun intended)
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
224|213|2001-08-24 09:58:22|dmaliniak@penton.com|Re: CIRCUIT BOARDS & ENCLOSURES|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Richard Brummer, K2JQ"
wrote:
> Tom,
>
> The boards I'm talking about have the parts layout silk-screened on
the
> copperclad. They are ready for Manhattan style construction. It is
not
>
"where-the-holes-are-drilled-and-everything-is-there-all-ya-gotta-do-i
s-plug
> -'em-in" type construction.
>
Dick, etc.:
Sounds like you're looking to replicate the AZ ScQRPions' 2N2/40 board
kit, which included a copper-clad substrate silk-screened with Paul,
NA5N's parts placement drawing from Jim's Winter '98 QRPp article.
That's what I used to build my rig and it did help me somewhat.
Unfortunately, the AZ club no longer makes the board kit
available. However, it wouldn't be that big of a deal to eyeball
placement of the pads from the drawing at all, provided you have it.
Either way.
If you *were* to want to replicate that kit, maybe contacting Bob
Hightower would be a good idea. Why reinvent the wheel? I bet he's
still got the screen...
72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJThanks for your input, Dave.
That's exactly what I did -- working with Bob Hightower to see if another
production run can be initiated.
Some builders may be uncomfortable with doing their own parts layout, and
this board "helps them out." I'm working with Bob and Jim on the
feasibility of doing this, then I'll see what the demand is within the
group.
73,
Dick K2JQ
-----Original Message-----
From:
dmaliniak@penton.com <
dmaliniak@penton.com>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Friday, August 24, 2001 9:58 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: CIRCUIT BOARDS & ENCLOSURES
>Dick, etc.:
>
>Sounds like you're looking to replicate the AZ ScQRPions' 2N2/40 board
>kit, which included a copper-clad substrate silk-screened with Paul,
>NA5N's parts placement drawing from Jim's Winter '98 QRPp article.
>That's what I used to build my rig and it did help me somewhat.
>Unfortunately, the AZ club no longer makes the board kit
>available. However, it wouldn't be that big of a deal to eyeball
>placement of the pads from the drawing at all, provided you have it.
>Either way.
>
>If you *were* to want to replicate that kit, maybe contacting Bob
>Hightower would be a good idea. Why reinvent the wheel? I bet he's
>still got the screen...
>
>72,
>David, AD2A
>Glen Rock, NJ
>
Dick and group,
Yep, the board layout is going to be one of those personal preference
things.
I originally had the AZ ScQRPion board but gave it away. I layed out the
board I'm using now by scaling up the drawing (enlarged it with a
photocopier) to the desired size, taping it to the copper clad and
slicing through the pad locations with an X-Acto knife scribing the pad
outlines onto the copper. Agreed, this method assumes one has the Paul
Harden book or the original QRPp article and is somewhat tedious but it
worked for me and allowed me to make my "special size" board ;-).
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin" and keep those soldering irons smokin'!
On Fri, 24 Aug 2001 10:24:45 -0400 "Richard Brummer, K2JQ"
<
k2jq@bestweb.net> writes:
> Some builders may be uncomfortable with doing their own parts
> layout, and
> this board "helps them out." I'm working with Bob and Jim on the
> feasibility of doing this, then I'll see what the demand is within
> the
> group.
>
> 73,
> Dick K2JQ
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Howdy Gang,
After removing duplicates and picking up some folks, we have 41 names on
the list of people who are needing parts. Please don't email me and ask
if you're on the list - find the list (it was sent out yesterday and is
in the archives on Yahoo) and see if you're on it. If you use multiple
email addresses (I think I'm up to four or five active ones myself now)
make sure you're not on twice. I'm using "50" as the number to shoot for
as far as parts buying goes.
Speakin' of Parts...
Brian Murrey, KB9BVN is down to 80 free P2N2222a's - email him directly
at <
brian@iquest.net> if you need these. There is no bulk-parts buy
planned for them.
Brian also has a BOATLOAD of metal 2N2222's coming in about a week. He
says they will cost $2 for 10 of 'em + 2 stamps. Please deal directly
with Brian on these. No word on heat sinks.
Still need someone to look into POTS...
Ken Hoglund, KG4FGC is working on a caps kit - stay tuned.
Richard Brummer, K2JQ" <
k2jq@bestweb.net> is looking into getting
another run of the silk-screened boards done. These boards have the
parts placement outlined on them. Current thought is they will cost
about $5 (approx). Richard will announce further details here as they
become available.
The book: We've picked up a number of new folks since I last mentioned
this, so I think it's worth repeating. This is quoted from Doug, KI6DS
on QRP-L:
> Guys if you are interested in building the 2N2/40 from the QRPp article,
> (actually a whole issue devoted to one subject), you can order a copy of the
> issue from Paul Harden, NA5N, at Quicksilver Printing, PO Box 757, Socorro,
> NM 87801 for $12 postpaid. Please enclose a self addressed mailing label
> and indicate that you are ordering the 2N2/40 Special Issue of QRPp.
Mine is on the way - I've heard this is an excellent book complete with
illustrations done by Paul.
Use the Yahoo site! If you haven't checked out the Yahoo Group site for
our group, you're missing out!
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/ is
URL. There is a dedicated file area, links, database, picture area and
of course a searchable archives of the mailing list. This is our site to
use for our project - everyone is free to contribute to it.
Finally; thanks to EVERYONE here on this list. There are a bunch of
folks working on gathering parts and we're seeing some great discussion
about the radio already. Jim, K8IQY is updating information and placing
stuff up on the Yahoo site. We're up to 93 people on this list! I'm
really excited to be involved with this and with such a great group of
people.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJohn and group,
IMO, one of the greatest things about the book (other than Paul's
excellent illustrations) is that it is spiral bound and lays flat on the
work table. Because I have lousy eyesight up close, I enlarged the pages
to "easy-to-read" size with a photocopier and put them in a 3 ring binder
for my "work" copy. YMMV :-).
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
Keep those soldering irons smokin' and "Snort Rosin"
On Fri, 24 Aug 2001 12:26:43 -0400 John Wagner <
john@wagner-usa.net>
writes:
> The book: We've picked up a number of new folks since I last
> mentioned
> this, so I think it's worth repeating. This is quoted from Doug,
> KI6DS
> on QRP-L:
>
> > Guys if you are interested in building the 2N2/40 from the QRPp
> article,
> > (actually a whole issue devoted to one subject), you can order a
> copy of the
> > issue from Paul Harden, NA5N, at Quicksilver Printing, PO Box 757,
> Socorro,
> > NM 87801 for $12 postpaid. Please enclose a self addressed
> mailing label
> > and indicate that you are ordering the 2N2/40 Special Issue of
> QRPp.
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Guys,
John mention my offer to provide 10 metal 2N2222's for $2 and 2 stamps and a
mailing label.
PLEASE understand that I can only offer this on a one per person basis. I
can only offer these to the first 40 orders I get in the US Mail with
payment.
TNX es 73
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
|
230|230|2001-08-24 14:57:47|Brian|My address for metal 2N2222's|Sorry...forgot..
Brian Murrey
47 Grassy Dr
New Whiteland IN 46184
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
|
231|209|2001-08-24 15:04:08|Stephen M Smith|Re: 2.4K resistor (R40 and R41)|Jim,
I have a boodle (that's a bunch) of 470pF silver mica cap's. that I can
donate to the cause -if- they will work for C65. Will 40pF more
capacitance throw the output network too far out of whack?
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
Keep those soldering irons smokin' and "Snort Rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.guess you can count me in for these too, I'm very
pleased with all the assistance offered on this
project. : ) Keep it up gang Thanks
73,72
Bill KE9XQ
>people have mentioned looking into buying
> POTS, but I don't have
> a definite buyer yet. Would the interested parties
> (i.e. someone doing
> the bulk order) please contact me directly so we can
> coordinate. Thanks.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/All,
For the record; any parts that I accumulate will be offered together, in
total, not piece meal. So far the only thing I've accumulated and will
be asking for reimbursement for are the MV1662's (which arrived today).
As for freebies, I have 1000pf caps that Jim, K8IQY sent, 2N7000 FETs
from Jake, N4UY and audio transformers from Steve, WB6TNL. Due in are
all the zener diodes (donated) and the MVAM109's (which we'll be
charging for to reimburse the buyer). I'm fairly certain there are more
caps coming in but which ones slips my brain at the moment. I'm thinking
of adding molded inductors to aforementioned list of things that I'll
buy.
Someone else is doing a Cap kit.
Jim is offering a set of matching xtals.
But I need someone to do the POTS. The reason I want this done
separately is because the 10-turn is something that a number of folks
might already have and not want to buy again (the cost abt $10). In
fact, a lot of folks might not need POTS at all and they will
significantly bump up the cost of what I'm assembling.
So who's it gonna be?
73 de John, N1QO
William Wood wrote:
>
> guess you can count me in for these too, I'm very
> pleased with all the assistance offered on this
> project. : ) Keep it up gang Thanks
> 73,72
> Bill KE9XQ
> >people have mentioned looking into buying
> > POTS, but I don't have
> > a definite buyer yet. Would the interested parties
> > (i.e. someone doing
> > the bulk order) please contact me directly so we can
> > coordinate. Thanks.
> >
> > 73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comYou'll get a kick out of this.
I've been putting off for years building my 2N2 (I got my board and
crystals 3 years ago in July). So I've been rattling around here getting
things ready, cleaning the board, punching "dots", scrounging parts, etc.
Last night, I'm all ready to start plunking down some pads. At my
local hobby shop, I had purchased a bottle of "Zap" cyanocrylate glue and
the little dropper hose things for the end of the spigot and had
squirreled it away in my chemical locker (read: cardboard box up in the
cupboard). Dug around, pulled out the bottle: It had tipped over on
it's side and somehow all the contents had leaked out and/or evaporated,
HA! "Well, no pad gluin' tonight. Bummer."
Fortunately the TRW swap meet in Redondo Beach, CA is tomorrow. For the
past several months there have been a handful of vendors there selling a
new "super glue" that looks interesting. It comes in both "runny" and
gel consistency but what's interesting about this stuff is that it
doesn't dry up if it's exposed to the air. It only dries when squeezed
between two surfaces. I've been eyeballing the stuff for a while but
it's kind of pricey and so I held off buying it. Now I have a legitimate
excuse to try it :-). So I'll get some tomorrow and try it over the
weekend and let you know how well it works for securing Manhattan style
pads.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
Keep those soldering irons smokin' and "Snort Rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Brian I would be interested in 10 of the 2N2222 should you have some available. If so I can have the money in the money on Sat.
Ron
N5SBN
<<<
brian@iquest.net 8/24 12:10p >>>
Guys,
John mention my offer to provide 10 metal 2N2222's for $2 and 2 stamps and a
mailing label.
PLEASE understand that I can only offer this on a one per person basis. I
can only offer these to the first 40 orders I get in the US Mail with
payment.
TNX es 73
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/In a message dated 8/24/2001 3:00:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
brian@iquest.net writes:
> Sorry...forgot..
>
> Brian Murrey
> 47 Grassy Dr
> New Whiteland IN 46184
I found you on QRZ - grin.
-MAC-
AF4PS
-51
Hello everyone.
This is just a note to let everyone know that I have joined the group. I have already started building the 2N2/40 from junkbox parts and others I have ordered through mail-order. I am a pilot for a charter company and have searched the country, literally, for parts. If anyone needs to know suppliers I have still have that information current in my memory banks.
I said I have already started building, but I am also still aquiring parts.
I have finished step 1, the RX/TX driver. It worked like a champ. Ground the keyline, output goes high. I felt good about that. I also finished step 2, the VCO, last evening. It is not as cooperative as its predecessor. I can't seem to find any oscillation. I have my Kenwood R-2000 on the bench with the board hooked up to a 12V gel-cell. Tuning around 1.8 mHz to 3 mHz I don't seem to get anything. I also have a Tektronix 60MHz O-scope that I am using to signal trace. It doesn't seem that I have any oscillation. I have probed around but don't see any signals. (20mv/1uS, 1X probe) I wonder if it could be because not all the parts are spec. I couldn't find the MVAM109 so I used an NTE618 (recommended by Ken's electronics, Kalamazoo). Also, no 120pf Cap for C10 so I used a 100pf in parallel with a 20pf. I included TC3 the optional trimmer (3.5-13pf) and TC4 is 9-50pf, both from Jameco.
Are NP0 and polyester caps specified for stability? My junkbox didn't have all the values, so I acquired 3 .001uf mylar caps for C13, C14, and C48. And C12a is a standard 330pf disc cap. The capacitors seem to be the hardest to find.
If anyone can help, please send an e-mail or post to the group. Thanks
I'll be reading you.
Kevin
--
AdverseYaw@twmi.rr.com <-- My email address
AdverseYaw@bigfoot.com <-- My forwarding address
Quote of the day--
Whenever the people are well informed, they can be trusted with their own government.
- Thomas Jefferson
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Kevin,
Where are you located. I'm thinking that I'm
building one also and I live just out west of Kazoo on
North 2nd, just off M43. Anyway I saw your reference
to Ken's and thought I'd check and ask.
--- "Kevin M." <
adverseyaw@twmi.rr.com> wrote:
> Hello everyone.
> This is just a note to let everyone know that I have
> joined the group. I have already started building
> the 2N2/40 from junkbox parts and others I have
> ordered through mail-order. I am a pilot for a
> charter company and have searched the country,
> literally, for parts. If anyone needs to know
> suppliers I have still have that information current
> in my memory banks.
> I said I have already started building, but I am
> also still aquiring parts.
> I have finished step 1, the RX/TX driver. It worked
> like a champ. Ground the keyline, output goes high.
> I felt good about that. I also finished step 2,
> the VCO, last evening. It is not as cooperative as
> its predecessor. I can't seem to find any
> oscillation. I have my Kenwood R-2000 on the bench
> with the board hooked up to a 12V gel-cell. Tuning
> around 1.8 mHz to 3 mHz I don't seem to get
> anything. I also have a Tektronix 60MHz O-scope
> that I am using to signal trace. It doesn't seem
> that I have any oscillation. I have probed around
> but don't see any signals. (20mv/1uS, 1X probe) I
> wonder if it could be because not all the parts are
> spec. I couldn't find the MVAM109 so I used an
> NTE618 (recommended by Ken's electronics,
> Kalamazoo). Also, no 120pf Cap for C10 so I used a
> 100pf in parallel with a 20pf. I included TC3 the
> optional trimmer (3.5-13pf) and TC4 is 9-50pf, both
> from Jameco.
> Are NP0 and polyester caps specified for stability?
> My junkbox didn't have all the values, so I acquired
> 3 .001uf mylar caps for C13, C14, and C48. And C12a
> is a standard 330pf disc cap. The capacitors seem
> to be the hardest to find.
> If anyone can help, please send an e-mail or post to
> the group. Thanks
> I'll be reading you.
> Kevin
>
> --
>
> AdverseYaw@twmi.rr.com <-- My email address
> AdverseYaw@bigfoot.com <-- My forwarding address
> Quote of the day--
>
> Whenever the people are well informed, they can be
> trusted with their own government.
> - Thomas Jefferson
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
=====
Dave Pomeroy K8DNP Southwest Michigan
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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http://phonecard.yahoo.com/Gimme your new address...I'm making you a goodie box.
----- Original Message -----
From: <macstein@aol.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2001 6:52 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] My address for metal 2N2222's
> In a message dated 8/24/2001 3:00:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> brian@iquest.net writes:
>
> > Sorry...forgot..
> >
> > Brian Murrey
> > 47 Grassy Dr
> > New Whiteland IN 46184
>
> I found you on QRZ - grin.
>
> -MAC-
> AF4PS
> -51
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hello Kevin,
Welcome! It's great to have people on board that have already started. I
know there are a few folks in your position (a little ahead of most of
us). Don't sit still too long though, we'll be catching up real soon.
I believe the NTE618 was mentioned here as a replacement for that diode
- someone correct me if I'm wrong.
NPO caps are used for their stability and required. If you haven't done
so, download Paul Harden's (NA5N) Handmans Guide to Capacitors at
http://www.btinternet.com/~g4wif/na5n.pdf - it's very informative.
Again, welcome. Don't be surprised if we hit you up for a bulk parts buy
at store no one else can get to!
73 de John, N1QO
"Kevin M." wrote:
>
> Hello everyone.
> This is just a note to let everyone know that I have joined the group. I have already started building the 2N2/40 from junkbox parts and others I have ordered through mail-order. I am a pilot for a charter company and have searched the country, literally, for parts. If anyone needs to know suppliers I have still have that information current in my memory banks.
> I said I have already started building, but I am also still aquiring parts.
> I have finished step 1, the RX/TX driver. It worked like a champ. Ground the keyline, output goes high. I felt good about that. I also finished step 2, the VCO, last evening. It is not as cooperative as its predecessor. I can't seem to find any oscillation. I have my Kenwood R-2000 on the bench with the board hooked up to a 12V gel-cell. Tuning around 1.8 mHz to 3 mHz I don't seem to get anything. I also have a Tektronix 60MHz O-scope that I am using to signal trace. It doesn't seem that I have any oscillation. I have probed around but don't see any signals. (20mv/1uS, 1X probe) I wonder if it could be because not all the parts are spec. I couldn't find the MVAM109 so I used an NTE618 (recommended by Ken's electronics, Kalamazoo). Also, no 120pf Cap for C10 so I used a 100pf in parallel with a 20pf. I included TC3 the optional trimmer (3.5-13pf) and TC4 is 9-50pf, both from Jameco.
> Are NP0 and polyester caps specified for stability? My junkbox didn't have all the values, so I acquired 3 .001uf mylar caps for C13, C14, and C48. And C12a is a standard 330pf disc cap. The capacitors seem to be the hardest to find.
> If anyone can help, please send an e-mail or post to the group. Thanks
> I'll be reading you.
> Kevin
>
> --
>
> AdverseYaw@twmi.rr.com <-- My email address
> AdverseYaw@bigfoot.com <-- My forwarding address
> Quote of the day--
>
> Whenever the people are well informed, they can be trusted with their own government.
> - Thomas Jefferson
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comLet us know how that new fangled glue works out Steve, sounds
interesting.
FWIW; I like the Gel variety of super glue. Previously I had been using
the el cheapo 4 for a buck at the dollar store glue, but have since
switched to more expensive "Scott Gel" super glue. It's just a lot
cleaner and easier to control.
73 de John, N1QO
Stephen M Smith wrote:
>
> You'll get a kick out of this.
>
> I've been putting off for years building my 2N2 (I got my board and
> crystals 3 years ago in July). So I've been rattling around here getting
> things ready, cleaning the board, punching "dots", scrounging parts, etc.
> Last night, I'm all ready to start plunking down some pads. At my
> local hobby shop, I had purchased a bottle of "Zap" cyanocrylate glue and
> the little dropper hose things for the end of the spigot and had
> squirreled it away in my chemical locker (read: cardboard box up in the
> cupboard). Dug around, pulled out the bottle: It had tipped over on
> it's side and somehow all the contents had leaked out and/or evaporated,
> HA! "Well, no pad gluin' tonight. Bummer."
>
> Fortunately the TRW swap meet in Redondo Beach, CA is tomorrow. For the
> past several months there have been a handful of vendors there selling a
> new "super glue" that looks interesting. It comes in both "runny" and
> gel consistency but what's interesting about this stuff is that it
> doesn't dry up if it's exposed to the air. It only dries when squeezed
> between two surfaces. I've been eyeballing the stuff for a while but
> it's kind of pricey and so I held off buying it. Now I have a legitimate
> excuse to try it :-). So I'll get some tomorrow and try it over the
> weekend and let you know how well it works for securing Manhattan style
> pads.
>
> 73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
> WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
> Keep those soldering irons smokin' and "Snort Rosin"
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJohn,
The Dollar General here now has the gel glue....2 tubes for a buck. It
works pretty well.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2001 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] "Stupid" Glue
> Let us know how that new fangled glue works out Steve, sounds
> interesting.
>
> FWIW; I like the Gel variety of super glue. Previously I had been using
> the el cheapo 4 for a buck at the dollar store glue, but have since
> switched to more expensive "Scott Gel" super glue. It's just a lot
> cleaner and easier to control.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> Stephen M Smith wrote:
> >
> > You'll get a kick out of this.
> >
> > I've been putting off for years building my 2N2 (I got my board and
> > crystals 3 years ago in July). So I've been rattling around here
getting
> > things ready, cleaning the board, punching "dots", scrounging parts,
etc.
> > Last night, I'm all ready to start plunking down some pads. At my
> > local hobby shop, I had purchased a bottle of "Zap" cyanocrylate glue
and
> > the little dropper hose things for the end of the spigot and had
> > squirreled it away in my chemical locker (read: cardboard box up in the
> > cupboard). Dug around, pulled out the bottle: It had tipped over on
> > it's side and somehow all the contents had leaked out and/or evaporated,
> > HA! "Well, no pad gluin' tonight. Bummer."
> >
> > Fortunately the TRW swap meet in Redondo Beach, CA is tomorrow. For the
> > past several months there have been a handful of vendors there selling a
> > new "super glue" that looks interesting. It comes in both "runny" and
> > gel consistency but what's interesting about this stuff is that it
> > doesn't dry up if it's exposed to the air. It only dries when squeezed
> > between two surfaces. I've been eyeballing the stuff for a while but
> > it's kind of pricey and so I held off buying it. Now I have a
legitimate
> > excuse to try it :-). So I'll get some tomorrow and try it over the
> > weekend and let you know how well it works for securing Manhattan style
> > pads.
> >
> > 73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
> > WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
> > Keep those soldering irons smokin' and "Snort Rosin"
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Gang--
Today at noon the Postal Service brought to my door the Quicksilver
Press edition of QRPp with Jim's article on building the 2N2-40. WOW!
Spiral-bound doesn't begin to describe how useful this will be. Paul
Harden's drawings are fantastic, and the "building" instructions include
clear, concise descriptions of what each circuit does and how it does
it. I cannot begin to imagine the time it took for Jim, Paul, and Doug
Hendricks (editor of QRPp) to do this, but it is indispensible and
wonderful.
Usual disclaimers, but I doubt your mileage may vary!
73
Ken KG4FGC
|
244|22|2001-08-25 15:26:48|Kevin R. Murphy|Re: administravia|--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner
wrote:
>
> Copper pads: If you have a large supply of copper manhattan pads and
> want to offer them here, please do. A number of us (me included) are
> running low. I made my last batch with a borrowed punch and will
have to
> borrow it again to build this radio. I found punching out pads to
be a
> time consuming process.
>
I happened upon a great way to make pads for manhatten construction.
So far I have built two of the stages with these pads and they work
well. Ok, so what about the pads? I have access to a shear at work
in the maintenance dept of my company. I shear off a thin .1" strip
of copper clad board which gives me a long strip. Then when it comes
time to make the pads I just snip it with dikes. I point it into a
rag so it doesn't go flying around the shop, and there I have a pad
in whatever length I need. I noticed on some of the parts layouts
from K9IQY's great site that he used different length pad for some,
so this is an easy way to do that.
If anyone needs pads I can supply a bunch of strips to them. Also
the 3/16" strips for the output stage.
Give me an email with your address and I will send some out. As long
they last.
Kevin--- In 2n2-40@y..., Kenneth Hoglund
wrote:
> The remaining caps are normal ceramic types, available at the local
> Radio Shack or wherever. Of these the only one I can see might be
> reasonably accomodated in a group effort is the .2mF value--about
> 18 are needed.
Count me in on the cap kit.
Also I have found a supplier in Olmito, TX ( just north of
Brownsville) of the .2uF disk caps. He had a large bag of them when
I was there last week and I bought 50. They were 2 or 5 cents each
but I'm sure we can dicker. His website is: www.isesurplus.com.
KevinHi gang,
I've got a SBL-1 double balanced mixer currently sitting in a direct
conversion receiver I built many moons ago. Can I directly
substitute the SBL-1 in place of the 2N2/40's mixer? Does it require
the same drive as the current mixer? Are there any other circuit
changes I would need to make to use the SBL-1?
I'm not sure I'll actually do the switch, because the SBL-1 is housed
in a little metal can, and it might take away from the true "home
brewed" aspect of the receiver, but on the other hand, the diodes
inside the SBL-1 might be a little better than the 1N914s that are
specified for the stock mixer.
Thanks for any ideas.
Glenn
W6KI
|
247|197|2001-08-25 18:33:47|Michael Hall|Re: Cap Kit for Project|Hi Ken,
Please put me on the list for the basic cap kit and also the .2mf caps. Let
me know how much $$ you want and how to send it to you.
Thanks in advance!
Dah-Dit-Dah.... 72's/73's es oo's, Mikey...WB8ICN...SOC #456
Proud Piggie of Multi-Pig S/N #8..Homebrew QRP CW transceiver
K2 S/N 383, FISTS #7065, QRP ARCI #9982, MI QRP #1442, FPQRP #68
Flying Pigs QRP Net on Wed and Sundays on 7047.5KHz at 2100 EST
QCWA Chapter 10, Michigan - Net meets on Sundays, 3903 MHz at 0800 EST
http://www.qsl.net/wb8icn Backup
e-mail-wb8icn@arrl.net &
wb8icn@aol.com -----Original Message-----
From: Kenneth Hoglund <
hoglund@wfu.edu>
To:
2N2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2N2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 11:38 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Cap Kit for Project
>As John alluded to, he and I have been trading ideas for the various
>components, and I'm ready to offer a group buy on the caps. What makes
>the most sense to me is that as a group we pick up any of the caps that
>are out of the ordinary and rebundle in the needed quantities for each
>builder.
>
>The caps involved would be:
>
> --all the NPO's (22 if I counted the schematic/parts list correctly)
>
> --1 of the polys (.001mF have been donated to the cause)
> --all the silver-micas (3 )
> --all the electrolytics (3)
>
>A total of 29 caps. Not sure we'll see a huge monetary savings, but sure
>would be more convenient for all of us...well, maybe not me! But why
>should 40 or so of us order the same thing when just one can do it?
>
>The remaining caps are normal ceramic types, available at the local
>Radio Shack or wherever. Of these the only one I can see might be
>reasonably accomodated in a group effort is the .2mF value--about 18 are
>needed.
>
>I'll price the kit at whatever it costs plus s&h from me to you. My
>interest is in helping John, and getting the caps I need for my rig.
>
>So here's what you need to do: are you interested in the "basic" cap
>kit? If yes, then are you also interested in getting a quantity of the
>.2mF as well? Send me an email with the answers to these vital
>questions, and I'll place an order on Monday.
>
>If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me directly.
>
>73
>Ken Hoglund KG4FGC
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 10:00 PM 8/25/01 +0000, Glenn, W6KI wrote:
>Hi gang,
>Greetings Glenn,
>I've got a SBL-1 double balanced mixer currently sitting in a direct
>conversion receiver I built many moons ago. Can I directly
>substitute the SBL-1 in place of the 2N2/40's mixer?
Yes indeed you can do that; other have already.
> Does it require
>the same drive as the current mixer?
Yes, it is a level 7 mixer (+7 dBm of drive), for which the
homebrewed version is designed. In fact, any level 7 commercial
mixer will work fine in the rig. So if you have an SBL series
mixer, ADE-1, LMX113, etc., it will work great if you care to
use it.
> Are there any other circuit
>changes I would need to make to use the SBL-1?
Essentially no. You would run the receive r.f. into the
mixer r.f. port, i.e., hook that to the output of the r.f. amplifier.
Connect the VFO driver transformer to the LO port. Take
the mixed signal off of the i.f. port terminal into the
mixer amplifier, Q5, via its emitter resistor, R15. You should
add a 1 mH molded r.f. choke to ground on the SBL-1 i.f. port
so there is a dc path for the Q6 emitter current, which is not
part of the original design configuration. But that needs to
be revised anyway, as I didn't do it quite right in the
original version. One of the minor modifications that will
be recommended, and shown in the updated schematics.
>I'm not sure I'll actually do the switch, because the SBL-1 is housed
>in a little metal can, and it might take away from the true "home
>brewed" aspect of the receiver, but on the other hand, the diodes
>inside the SBL-1 might be a little better than the 1N914s that are
>specified for the stock mixer.
Very true statement about the 1N914s vs the hot carrier
diodes in the SBL-1. In addition, the balance on the
diodes and the transformers in the SBL-1 are much better
than you or I will get with homebrewing a mixer, resulting
in better performance. But then as you said, it isn't
as much homebrewed as rolling your own mixer.
>Thanks for any ideas.
You are quite welcome!
72
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I'm taking the easy way out to notify many of you who have
written me within the past several days that I'm woefully
behind in answering some of my email. I've gotten some
long emails regarding technical questions on 2N2/40s
being built that are not working correctly, ditto on
Iowa QRP-10s, and some other more general questions
that need some research or measurements before formulating
an answer. I'll eventually get back to each of you, when
I have time to generate the requested data, or figure out
a suitable answer.
My appologies for taking this approach, but I'm feeling
kinda boxed in at the moment with everything that is going
on, and not enough time to answer everyone on a timely
basis. I will get back to you, hopefully, before you
give up entirely, or think that I'm a real jerk! :-)
72, thanks for your understanding, and thanks for the
bandwidth!
Jim, K8IQY
|
250|22|2001-08-25 20:22:54|Kevin R. Murphy|Re: administravia|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Kevin R. Murphy"
wrote:
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> >
> > Copper pads: If you have a large supply of copper manhattan pads
and
> > want to offer them here, please do. A number of us (me included)
are
> > running low. I made my last batch with a borrowed punch and will
> have to
> > borrow it again to build this radio. I found punching out pads to
> be a
> > time consuming process.
> >
>
> I happened upon a great way to make pads for manhatten
construction.
> So far I have built two of the stages with these pads and they work
> well. Ok, so what about the pads? I have access to a shear at
work
> in the maintenance dept of my company. I shear off a thin .1"
strip
> of copper clad board which gives me a long strip. Then when it
comes
> time to make the pads I just snip it with dikes. I point it into
a
> rag so it doesn't go flying around the shop, and there I have a pad
> in whatever length I need. I noticed on some of the parts layouts
> from K9IQY's great site that he used different length pad for some,
> so this is an easy way to do that.
> If anyone needs pads I can supply a bunch of strips to them. Also
> the 3/16" strips for the output stage.
> Give me an email with your address and I will send some out. As
long
> they last.
> Kevin
Ok folks. I did the math. It seems we need 41.2" of copper clad
strips per person. There are 134 .3"X.1" pads. Two .5"X.1" pads.
And two 3/16"X2.8" pads (output transistors). So I will be sending
everyone who responds (7) 6"X.1" strips and (2) 2.8"X.1875" strips.
One of the list members has offered to send me a ten spot for the
material el al. I will use this on Monday to go and get more Copper
clad board of the FR-4 variety.
Thanks for all the responses.
KevinIn a message dated 8/25/2001 6:01:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
w6ki@yahoo.com writes:
> I've got a SBL-1 double balanced mixer currently sitting in a direct
> conversion receiver I built many moons ago. Can I directly
> substitute the SBL-1 in place of the 2N2/40's mixer? Does it require
> the same drive as the current mixer? Are there any other circuit
> changes I would need to make to use the SBL-1?
>
> I'm not sure I'll actually do the switch, because the SBL-1 is housed
> in a little metal can, and it might take away from the true "home
> brewed" aspect of the receiver, but on the other hand, the diodes
> inside the SBL-1 might be a little better than the 1N914s that are
> specified for the stock mixer.
> Thanks for any ideas.
I think you could, Glen, but I sure wouldn't. You wil miss the WHOOPEE that
comes when the thing come to life and you wonder if it really will!
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
Thanks Kevin--
Got you down.
The .2mF is actually supposed to be .22mF: a bit of a difference! So does he
have any of these? I've found a few suppliers but will look anywhere for a
deal!
73
Ken KG4FGC
"Kevin R. Murphy" wrote:
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., Kenneth Hoglund wrote:
> > The remaining caps are normal ceramic types, available at the local
> > Radio Shack or wherever. Of these the only one I can see might be
> > reasonably accomodated in a group effort is the .2mF value--about
> > 18 are needed.
>
> Count me in on the cap kit.
> Also I have found a supplier in Olmito, TX ( just north of
> Brownsville) of the .2uF disk caps. He had a large bag of them when
> I was there last week and I bought 50. They were 2 or 5 cents each
> but I'm sure we can dicker. His website is: www.isesurplus.com.
>
> Kevin
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 12:22 AM 8/26/01 +0000, "Kevin R. Murphy" wrote:
>Ok folks. I did the math. It seems we need 41.2" of copper clad
>strips per person. There are 134 .3"X.1" pads. Two .5"X.1" pads.
>And two 3/16"X2.8" pads (output transistors). So I will be sending
>everyone who responds (7) 6"X.1" strips and (2) 2.8"X.1875" strips.
>One of the list members has offered to send me a ten spot for the
>material el al. I will use this on Monday to go and get more Copper
>clad board of the FR-4 variety.
>Thanks for all the responses.
>
>
>Kevin
Kevin,
No need to make the output transistor pads 3/16 inch wide.
0.1 inch is more than adequate, and actually preferable,
as it reduces the pad capacitance. Makes your job easier
too. You might want to up the pad count just a tad so
there are extras for mistakes that will occur along the
way. Take it from someone who has removed may of them
and wrecked them in the process! :-)
Thanks for offering the pad service too. I'm sure many
will take you up on your offer.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Ok Gang,
One last call for those wanting a caps kit for the 2N2-40. This will be
a collection containing all the NPO's, all the polys, all the
silver-micas (which Jim assures me can be polys as well since we're not
using very high voltage), and all the electrolytics. So far the votes
have favored also getting a supply of .22 mF standard disk as well since
this is one of the more commonly used values in the project.
I am only asking for "strong interest" at this point so I can gauge what
quantity to order. Once we can get quantities set, orders in, p&h
calculated, we can figure out what the price will be. Several folks from
the group are donating supplies to the cause, so this will definitely be
less than it would cost you if ordering the whole array yourself.
So far 27 individuals have expressed interest, and a fair number of
those want two kits. Fine by me! I'll order more than the number
requested since I figure some will join our efforts late, but to insure
you get one, let me know by midnight EDT tomorrow. Orders go in bright
and early Monday am.
I'll be glad to try and field any questions you may have. And many
thanks to folks who are donating quantities, have led me to great deals,
and otherwise have been offering solid help. This really is a group
effort. And thanks John, for putting us all together on a great project.
73
Ken Hoglund
KG4FGC
|
255|254|2001-08-25 21:00:51|Dave Pomeroy|Re: Last Call Caps Kit|Ken,
I'll buy a set. Let me know where to send the money
and when.
--- Kenneth Hoglund <
hoglund@wfu.edu> wrote:
> Ok Gang,
>
> One last call for those wanting a caps kit for the
> 2N2-40. This will be
> a collection containing all the NPO's, all the
> polys, all the
> silver-micas (which Jim assures me can be polys as
> well since we're not
> using very high voltage), and all the electrolytics.
> So far the votes
> have favored also getting a supply of .22 mF
> standard disk as well since
> this is one of the more commonly used values in the
> project.
>
> I am only asking for "strong interest" at this point
> so I can gauge what
> quantity to order. Once we can get quantities set,
> orders in, p&h
> calculated, we can figure out what the price will
> be. Several folks from
> the group are donating supplies to the cause, so
> this will definitely be
> less than it would cost you if ordering the whole
> array yourself.
>
> So far 27 individuals have expressed interest, and a
> fair number of
> those want two kits. Fine by me! I'll order more
> than the number
> requested since I figure some will join our efforts
> late, but to insure
> you get one, let me know by midnight EDT tomorrow.
> Orders go in bright
> and early Monday am.
>
> I'll be glad to try and field any questions you may
> have. And many
> thanks to folks who are donating quantities, have
> led me to great deals,
> and otherwise have been offering solid help. This
> really is a group
> effort. And thanks John, for putting us all together
> on a great project.
>
> 73
>
> Ken Hoglund
> KG4FGC
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
=====
Dave Pomeroy K8DNP Southwest Michigan
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/Hi Ken,
Please count in.
Sure appreciate your effort.
Gody
--- Kenneth Hoglund <
hoglund@wfu.edu> wrote:
> Ok Gang,
>
> One last call for those wanting a caps kit for the
> 2N2-40. This will be
> a collection containing all the NPO's, all the
> polys, all the
> silver-micas (which Jim assures me can be polys as
> well since we're not
> using very high voltage), and all the electrolytics.
> So far the votes
> have favored also getting a supply of .22 mF
> standard disk as well since
> this is one of the more commonly used values in the
> project.
>
> I am only asking for "strong interest" at this point
> so I can gauge what
> quantity to order. Once we can get quantities set,
> orders in, p&h
> calculated, we can figure out what the price will
> be. Several folks from
> the group are donating supplies to the cause, so
> this will definitely be
> less than it would cost you if ordering the whole
> array yourself.
>
> So far 27 individuals have expressed interest, and a
> fair number of
> those want two kits. Fine by me! I'll order more
> than the number
> requested since I figure some will join our efforts
> late, but to insure
> you get one, let me know by midnight EDT tomorrow.
> Orders go in bright
> and early Monday am.
>
> I'll be glad to try and field any questions you may
> have. And many
> thanks to folks who are donating quantities, have
> led me to great deals,
> and otherwise have been offering solid help. This
> really is a group
> effort. And thanks John, for putting us all together
> on a great project.
>
> 73
>
> Ken Hoglund
> KG4FGC
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/Ken,
Please put me on you Cap Kit Wanted list.
Many, many thanks.
72,
Kaye Hartman, K8GZ Lancaster, OH
|
258|258|2001-08-26 01:10:23|sigcom@juno.com|Re: "New" Glue|John and group,
This "new" glue is indeed a cyanoacrylate. I don't know what
differentiates it from "regular" cyanoacrylate glues but it's not
supposed to dry up when open to the air. Maybe it was just a good sales
pitch :-). If so, I went for it!
This stuff may not be economical unless one is doing a bunch of Manhattan
style building. Too early to tell.
Yes, I think that the gel consistancy will be easier to use but that's
probably a personal preference.
I'll let you know tomorrow how well it works.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin" and keep those soldering irons smokin'!
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Ken,
Count me in for one kit.
Have you heard from Cam Hartford today? He nailed all the silver mica
caps (100 ea.) today at the TRW swap meet. So I don't think you'll need
to order those.
I wasn't as succesfull. I didn't score anything we could use. Even got
skunked on the heatsinks I thought would be a cinch, sigh.
Oh, well. Found 10 ea. 10K pots but that's not going to cut it. I did
get a lead on 200,000 2N2222s! Those are TO-92s. The source says he
thinks he only has 2000 TO-18s, HA! So I'm chasing that source.
Thanks for all your great work.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin" and keep those soldering irons smokin'!
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.We had a nice turnout of 2N2 builders today at the TRW swap meet in
Redondo Beach, CA (right across the street from.......ahem, -Manhattan-
Beach, HA!!). The weather was terrific, perfect for swappin' and
eyeballin'!
Meeting at Sam Imai's (KF6ML) regular QRP booth hangout were:
Cam Hartford, N6GA
Del Long, AD6WE
Gody Siason, AC6UV
Mike Schettler, WA6MER
and me.
Several members of the Lake Perris QRP Society also stopped by to chat.
Mike brought along the 2N2 that he had finished constructing in early
2000. It generated quite a bit of excitement from prospective builders
and passersby alike. At one time the crowd swelled to maybe 7 people!
:-). Mike handled the myriad of questions with aplomb.
Later Mike, Gody and I cruised the swap meet looking for bulk parts for
the group's project without much success :-(. Cam made out a bit better.
I managed to score a HOTweezers wire stripper for stripping Teflon coated
wire and cable and also bagged a handfull of 10K pots.
My goal this weekend is to build the audio section of the 2N2 to
determine the value of the capacitor needed to resonate the transformers
that I've supplied.
Film, as they say, at 11.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin" and keep those soldering irons smokin'!
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Count me in and thank you.
John Fisher
2137 Duggan Rd
Nanaimo BC
Canada V9S5N9
By the way I understand that the mailing will be higher to Canada. No
problems for me John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenneth Hoglund" <hoglund@wfu.edu>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2001 5:51 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Last Call Caps Kit
> Ok Gang,
>
> One last call for those wanting a caps kit for the 2N2-40. This will be
the whole array yourself.
>
Kevin I would like some of the pc board. Iknow that it will cost more to
send it to the great white north so if you let me know I will cover the
cost. Thanks for the effort. John
John fisher
2137 Duggan Rd
Nanaimo BC
Canada V9S5N9
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin R. Murphy" <adverseyaw@bigfoot.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2001 12:26 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: administravia
One set for me, definately!!!
|
264|243|2001-08-26 03:29:25|wb0wao@yahoo.com|Re: Quicksilver Version|--- In 2n2-40@y..., Kenneth Hoglund
wrote:
> Gang--
>
> Today at noon the Postal Service brought to my door the Quicksilver
> Press edition of QRPp with Jim's article on building the 2N2-40.
WOW!
Roger That! Got mine today too, and would have been a bargain at
twice the price! Very impressive and professionally done. Tells me
everything I need to know about how the rig works, how to build it,
etc. Guys, if you don't have a copy of this, RUN to the mailbox and
order one!
Usual disclaimer here, etc, etc.
Dennis - WB0WAOAll,
I would like to have the book send to the UK. Tried to find an e-mail
address for Quicksilver, but that was a fruitless search. Can anybody help
me here?
73 de Hubert
-----Original Message-----
From:
wb0wao@yahoo.com [mailto:
wb0wao@yahoo.com]
Sent: 26 August 2001 08:29
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Quicksilver Version
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Kenneth Hoglund wrote:
> Gang--
>
> Today at noon the Postal Service brought to my door the Quicksilver
> Press edition of QRPp with Jim's article on building the 2N2-40.
WOW!
Roger That! Got mine today too, and would have been a bargain at
twice the price! Very impressive and professionally done. Tells me
everything I need to know about how the rig works, how to build it,
etc. Guys, if you don't have a copy of this, RUN to the mailbox and
order one!
Usual disclaimer here, etc, etc.
Dennis - WB0WAO
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I think a lot of us got our copy yesterday. Only had a chance to give it
a quick read last night, but it looks fantastic. The illustrations are
outstanding, it has a parts template, great stuff. I'm going to read it
after I get off this darn computer... ;)
73 de John, N1QO
wb0wao@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., Kenneth Hoglund wrote:
> > Gang--
> >
> > Today at noon the Postal Service brought to my door the Quicksilver
> > Press edition of QRPp with Jim's article on building the 2N2-40.
> WOW!
>
> Roger That! Got mine today too, and would have been a bargain at
> twice the price! Very impressive and professionally done. Tells me
> everything I need to know about how the rig works, how to build it,
> etc. Guys, if you don't have a copy of this, RUN to the mailbox and
> order one!
>
> Usual disclaimer here, etc, etc.
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comQuicksilver Printing is run by Paul Harden, NA5N -
na5n@rt66.com 73 de John, N1QO
Hubert Smits wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I would like to have the book send to the UK. Tried to find an e-mail
> address for Quicksilver, but that was a fruitless search. Can anybody help
> me here?
>
> 73 de Hubert
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wb0wao@yahoo.com [mailto:wb0wao@yahoo.com]
> Sent: 26 August 2001 08:29
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Quicksilver Version
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., Kenneth Hoglund wrote:
> > Gang--
> >
> > Today at noon the Postal Service brought to my door the Quicksilver
> > Press edition of QRPp with Jim's article on building the 2N2-40.
> WOW!
>
> Roger That! Got mine today too, and would have been a bargain at
> twice the price! Very impressive and professionally done. Tells me
> everything I need to know about how the rig works, how to build it,
> etc. Guys, if you don't have a copy of this, RUN to the mailbox and
> order one!
>
> Usual disclaimer here, etc, etc.
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 10:04 PM 8/25/01 -0700, you wrote:
>
>
>My goal this weekend is to build the audio section of the 2N2 to
>determine the value of the capacitor needed to resonate the transformers
>that I've supplied.
Steve, stick the transformer primary (Hi-Z) on an AADE inductance
meter and measure its inductance. The capacitor has to be the
same value of reactance, but of the opposite sign. That's how
I did the original.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Steve--
Got you down! And Cam did let me know he did real well! Only 2000
2N2222's---hardly enough (HIHI).
This is going to be a fun project. Good score on the 10 turn pots, by the
way.
73
Ken KG4FGC
sigcom@juno.com wrote:
> Ken,
>
> Count me in for one kit.
>
> Have you heard from Cam Hartford today? He nailed all the silver mica
> caps (100 ea.) today at the TRW swap meet. So I don't think you'll need
> to order those.
>
> I wasn't as succesfull. I didn't score anything we could use. Even got
> skunked on the heatsinks I thought would be a cinch, sigh.
>
> Oh, well. Found 10 ea. 10K pots but that's not going to cut it. I did
> get a lead on 200,000 2N2222s! Those are TO-92s. The source says he
> thinks he only has 2000 TO-18s, HA! So I'm chasing that source.
>
> Thanks for all your great work.
>
> 73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
> WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
> "Snort Rosin" and keep those soldering irons smokin'!
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hey guy!
You did your job by designing, writing and talking about the 2N2/40s. Thank
you for all that effort.
72 de Lee, KM4YY
We've all heard that a million monkeys banging on a million
typewriters will eventually reproduce the entire works of
Shakespeare. Now, thanks to the Internet, we know this is
not true.
--Robert Wilensky, ILP 1996
> I'm taking the easy way out to notify many of you who have
> written me within the past several days that I'm woefully
> behind in answering some of my email. I've gotten some
> long emails regarding technical questions on 2N2/40s ...
Hi Kevin -
I could definitely use some strips.
Lee Mairs
3000 Woodlawn Ave.
Falls Church, VA 22042
Thanks a bunch and 72
Lee
From: "Kevin R. Murphy" <
adverseyaw@bigfoot.com>
To: <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2001 8:22 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: administravia
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Kevin R. Murphy" wrote:
> > --- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> > >
> > > Copper pads: If you have a large supply of copper manhattan pads
> and
> > > want to offer them here, please do. A number of us (me included)
> are
> > > running low. I made my last batch with a borrowed punch and will
> > have to
> > > borrow it again to build this radio. I found punching out pads to
> > be a
> > > time consuming process.
> > >
> >
> > I happened upon a great way to make pads for manhatten
> construction.
> > So far I have built two of the stages with these pads and they work
> > well. Ok, so what about the pads? I have access to a shear at
> work
> > in the maintenance dept of my company. I shear off a thin .1"
> strip
> > of copper clad board which gives me a long strip. Then when it
> comes
> > time to make the pads I just snip it with dikes. I point it into
> a
> > rag so it doesn't go flying around the shop, and there I have a pad
> > in whatever length I need. I noticed on some of the parts layouts
> > from K9IQY's great site that he used different length pad for some,
> > so this is an easy way to do that.
> > If anyone needs pads I can supply a bunch of strips to them. Also
> > the 3/16" strips for the output stage.
> > Give me an email with your address and I will send some out. As
> long
> > they last.
> > Kevin
>
> Ok folks. I did the math. It seems we need 41.2" of copper clad
> strips per person. There are 134 .3"X.1" pads. Two .5"X.1" pads.
> And two 3/16"X2.8" pads (output transistors). So I will be sending
> everyone who responds (7) 6"X.1" strips and (2) 2.8"X.1875" strips.
> One of the list members has offered to send me a ten spot for the
> material el al. I will use this on Monday to go and get more Copper
> clad board of the FR-4 variety.
> Thanks for all the responses.
>
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Jim,
For some reason, in the back of my mind, I thought that the other
components in the amplifier might have some effect upon the exact
resonant freq. of the transformer/capacitor combination. But after all,
we're talking KHz here, not MHz :-).
But being the analytical type, I wanted to measure the gain, power
output, distortion and freq. response of the circuit anyway. Not to
mention that doing this gets me off my butt on this project and moving
forward :-).
Thanks for the tip.
On Sun, 26 Aug 2001 08:11:49 -0400 "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
<
jokortge@prodigy.net> writes:
> Steve, stick the transformer primary (Hi-Z) on an AADE inductance
> meter and measure its inductance. The capacitor has to be the
> same value of reactance, but of the opposite sign. That's how
> I did the original.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> >My goal this weekend is to build the audio section of the 2N2 to
> >determine the value of the capacitor needed to resonate the
> transformers
> >that I've supplied.
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.At 09:42 PM 8/22/01 -0500, James Wayne Rue, KC5HAC wrote:
> This seems like a good time to get answers to a few questions that I
>keep asking myself. In the QRPp Winter 1998 (2n2/40) issue on page 9 on
>"Hints for Toroids" it says "PVC/mylar covered #24 - #30 wire wrap can
>also be used, although inductance may vary slightly over coil wire". Is
>this slight inductance enough to be of concern?
No. Generally, the size of the wire will not change the
inductance, but only the final Q of the inductor. Larger
wire diameters give higher Qs, since the resistance is
less. However, not having any experience with winding toroids
with PVC/mylar covered wire, my only concern would be whether
the insulation can stand the stress of being wound and pulled
past the relatively sharp edges of the toroid, without peeling
off the insulation. You'll just have to try it and see what
happens.
>
>
> Can you use both PVC and Enamel coated wire together to keep track of
>your wires when constructing the bifilar and trifilar toroids, or will
>this cause problems?
Within the constraints mentions above, mixing the two should
be OK.
> How about using #24 and #30 together?
Electrically not a problem, but that much divergence in
wire sizes might make it hard to twist the pair or set of
three together in a nice bundle. Also, smaller guages
have to be used as the number of wires in a bundle
increases, otherwise, the bundle is too stiff and too
large in diameter to wind on the core properly.
> I tried the Green enamel wire from Radio Shack before and the enamel
>flaked off as I was winding. The red and gold enamel wire from Radio
>Shack seemed to hold up to winding but are of different diameters. I
>know that the different diameters will make a change in the inductance in
>each wire individually but what happens when they are wrapped together
>such as on a bifilar toroid?
See comments above. I'd be more concerned in being able
to form a nice pair when one wire is much larger in diameter
than the other. Ideally, all three should be the same diameter,
and quite small in guage size to get a good bifilar or trifilar
winding. On the original 2N2/40, and the second unit, all of the
bifilar and trifilar windings were done with #28 guage wire. They
weren't of different colors either. I just figured out which
winding was which with an ohmmeter after the core was wound.
It only takes a few minutes to sort them out, and then a little
dab of colored nail polish or permanent marker pen can be used
to mark each winding.
> Can a secondary and a primary be of different diameters?
Yes, and often they are that way because the primary has
several turns, and won't fit on the core if large wire
is used. The secondary has fewer turns, and must supply
more current, so a larger wire guage is appropriate. That
also helps keep the Q high.
> One thing that I am trying to get at is that I do not have two of the
>same diameter enamel wires of different colors (some very close), and I
>know from experience that a toroid with several wires of the same color
>is one area where I can really mess up :-).
Maybe it is a good time to do some experimenting at sorting out
the windings done with several strands of the same size and
color wire. It is often difficult to find the same wire
guage in different colors, especially for trifilar windings.
I'd sure like to find some spools of #26 and #28 magnet wire
in 3 different colors, preferrably in the enamel coating
that can be burned off with a hot soldering iron.
72 and happy building,
Jim, K8IQY
Gentlemen:
I have volunteered to do the group buy for the pots. Please send me an email
if you want to participate.
73
Ed
N4EJG
|
275|204|2001-08-26 20:59:46|james-rhonda@juno.com|Re: Questions|Jim,
Thanks for the tips and answers to my questions. This is one reason
that I enjoy this type of list as I have no one local (that I know of) to
ask these questions.
James KC5HAC
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Count me in John
John Fisher
2137 Duggan Rd
Nanaimo BC
Canada V9S5N9
----- Original Message -----
From: <edgerhardt@aol.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2001 4:24 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Pots
> Gentlemen:
>
> I have volunteered to do the group buy for the pots. Please send me an
email
> if you want to participate.
>
> 73
> Ed
> N4EJG
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Greetings from Alaska,
May I gently suggest that when responding to someone with a personal
response that you "Forward the message", then cut and past the "From"
address into the To: box. Just using "Reply" sends it to all of us on
2n2-40 list and fills up the archives with unneeded posts. The QRP-L
ListServe does this Reply stuff right but Yahoo does not.
As an example, if we all used "Reply" when buying into the capacitor
kit, we would have 50 extra emails in the archive. I think most are
already doing this in the more favorable manner but it can't hurt for
all of us to do it.
Make sense? (Private replies only...you can practice the new
technique. :-) )
73, Jim
--
Jim Larsen, AL7FS, Anchorage, Alaska
(BP51cc) - 61.101 North, 149.824 West
mailto:
al7fs@arrl.net -
http://www.qsl.net/al7fs/At 09:11 AM 8/24/01 +0000, Dennis - WB0WAO, wrote:
>On the schematic D30 and D31 show as 2.0v LED's. In checking the
>specs for LED's in one of my catalogs, they show values of Vf from 1.7
>to 2.8 and above (some even show 3 to 4 v). Am I thinking correctly
>here that the value of the LED's will determine the spread of the
>filter, so I want to make sure that I use a pair of 2.0v LED's and not
> 1.8's or 2.4's, etc and DEFINATELY not a "mixed pair" i.e., a 2.0v
>and a 2.8v LED?
Well yes and no Dennis. That pair of 2 volt LEDs gives the
filter range that I showed. However, that range can be moved
about some by indeed changing the value of the two diodes.
The diode that is grounded sets how narrow the filter will
tune, a smaller voltage gives a tighter filter, since the
varicap diodes increase their capacitance with a smaller
voltage. The sum of the voltages from the two LEDs sets
the upper filter bandwidth. The higher the sum of the voltages,
the wider the filter will be, up to a limit. The limit is when
you try to make it too narrow, and the passband shape goes into
the toilet. The same thing will happen if you try to make it
too wide. I tried to chose a decent set of values for good
CW operation.
> Also, how much of a factor is the If (if any) in the
>proper functioning of this circut? There are If values of 20, 30, and
> 40 mA for different 2.0v LED's.
There is obviously some influence on If. As If increases, so does
the voltage across the diode, but that If curve is fairly steep,
so you can change the If value by a somewhat large amount, and only
suffer a smaller change in Vf. The diodes I used were rated at
2 ma, and I'm driving them at about 5 ma.
> The reason I ask this is because I
>have a bunch of LED's in the junque box from various "salvaged" items.
> If this is a "critical" component, I want to make sure that I have a
>"matched pair" to ensure proper operation. I have never used LED's in
>this manner before, so I am in the dark about this (no pun intended)
Well you can make up a small test circuit with the shown resistor, and
just plug in a pair of diodes and measure the voltage drop across
each one. Once you find one that is close to 2 volts, leave it in
the circuit and find another that is close to its value. There is
enough variation in LEDs that if one wants to get it dead on, thats
what has to be done. However, I feel the filter will work well
with purchased diodes having the desired Vf, without sorting
them. At least I hope so! :-)
72 and happy building,
Jim, K8IQY
Please include me in the Caps Kit. Great to get them all at once.
72/73
Ed Stagl N2GVS
edstagl@att.netI have been reading my copy of the QRPp reprint.With regard to diode
matching for the DB-mixer,the instructions say
"Also, the 1N4148 diodes should be matched for forward resistance.
Just measure a bunch, and pick 4 that are within 1 ohm of each
other."
With my Fluke 77 DMM on the ohms setting I measured (4) 1n914 diodes
that I have on hand with the following readings ( in Mega ohms ) :
1.322, 1.320, 1.315, 1.294
The best I could ever hope to do with my meter is match them to
within 1000 ohms.
Am I doing this correctly?
|
282|78|2001-08-27 07:19:11|LessB@aol.com|Re: Pots|Will the POT buy include the pot for the RIT?
Les Bearl, N0PPF
|
283|281|2001-08-27 08:23:33|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: diode matching|At 07:04 AM 8/27/01 +0000, you wrote:
>I have been reading my copy of the QRPp reprint.With regard to diode
>matching for the DB-mixer,the instructions say
>
>"Also, the 1N4148 diodes should be matched for forward resistance.
>Just measure a bunch, and pick 4 that are within 1 ohm of each
>other."
>
>With my Fluke 77 DMM on the ohms setting I measured (4) 1n914 diodes
>that I have on hand with the following readings ( in Mega ohms ) :
>
> 1.322, 1.320, 1.315, 1.294
>
>The best I could ever hope to do with my meter is match them to
>within 1000 ohms.
>
>Am I doing this correctly?
No! You want to match them for forward resistance, which will
be under 1000 ohms. If you have a diode measuring position
on your meter, use that. Another way of doing the matching
is to build a small test jig consisting of a 5-10 volt
regulated supply. Source the diode through a 1000 ohm resistor,
and measure the forward drop across the diode with a DVM set
on the 1 volt or 2 volt scale. The forward voltage should be
around 0.65 volts. Pick 4 diodes whose forward drops are within
+/- 1 to 2 millivolts.
72 and happy matching.
Jim, K8IQY
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
>
> Well you can make up a small test circuit with the shown resistor,
and
> Once you find one that is close to 2 volts, leave it in
> the circuit and find another that is close to its value. There is
> enough variation in LEDs that if one wants to get it dead on, thats
> what has to be done.
How close is close? I found two LED's that when in the same circuit
with the 1.8K resistor develope 1.97V and 1.95V respectively. Is
this close enough? Or should I get different ones?
Thanks
Kevin.At 07:02 PM 8/27/01 +0000, you wrote:
>--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> >
> > Well you can make up a small test circuit with the shown resistor,
>and
> > Once you find one that is close to 2 volts, leave it in
> > the circuit and find another that is close to its value. There is
> > enough variation in LEDs that if one wants to get it dead on, thats
> > what has to be done.
>
>How close is close? I found two LED's that when in the same circuit
>with the 1.8K resistor develope 1.97V and 1.95V respectively. Is
>this close enough? Or should I get different ones?
Kevin,
Those are plenty close enough.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Group,
I am considering offering a kit of Teflon insulated wire for 2N2
constructors. I haven't nailed down the exact kit contents but I was
thinking about a foot or so of each of 6 or 8 different colors of
stranded #22-24 gauge hookup wire in both solid and muti-colors and 6 or
8 inches of Teflon insulated coaxial cable about the same diameter as
RG-174 (approx. 1/8-inch dia.).
Since wire selection is a personal preference and not all builders will
want to use Teflon, I would be sending these kits out individually (not
bulk shipping to John like I did with the audio transformers).
The wire has been scrounged by me and I would only ask to be reimbursed
in an amount equal to my cost for postage (USPS First Class Mail only)
and an envolope. Probably only a dollar.
I am also considering including the enamel coated wire for the toroid
coils and transformers -IF- I can find an easily obtainable source. This
would include multi-colored wire for the multi-filar wound transformers.
Again, this is a maybe and would increase cost somewhat.
So, for the next few days I'll be looking for responses from interested
parties. IMPORTANT: Let me know if you'd also be interested in the
enamel wire or not. Your input will help me decided wether or not to go
with the enamel.
****Please, PLEASE! Don't respond to the list!!*****
Cut and paste my
sigcom@juno.com addr. to your response, only!!
This will help keep a lid on unecessary list traffic, thanks.
This is just a poll to determine interest. I will solicit orders -after-
I decide if the endevour will be worthwhile.
CAVEATS: TFE wire is not for everyone. It is a -pain- to work with
unless one is blessed with access to a hot-wire stripper. However, when
soldering in tight confines like those of the 2N2, the insulation is not
easily nicked and won't pull back as with plastic covered wire. If one
inadvertently lays the soldering iron tip against a TFE insulated wire,
it won't burn or discolor. And TFE insulated wire is just prettier, IMO
:-).
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
Keep those soldering irons smokin' and "Snort Rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.OK Gang here's what's going on;
First of all, we've reached 120 people on this mailing list (actually
less, there are some duplicates, but still 120 - WOW!). There are a lot
of folks building, a number of people here to help and some folks just
following along for fun. This is an OUTSTANDING amount of interest and
I'm very, very impressed with the Ham radio spirit that is so prevalent
in this group. For me, this is what ham radio is all about.
On to the business of parts:
There are 44 people who have expressed interest in obtaining parts via
group buys, etc... We have been planning for 50. If the number grows to
over 50, we'll have to adapt and overcome somehow, however I think 50
will hold. Please don't hoard up on parts during these group buys, let's
make sure there are enough to go around first. Any extras can/will be
offered here.
Some of the parts I have in hand have been donated (some of the
donations have been LARGE). I've been reciting the calls of who donated
what in the past few emails but it's getting long. I'll make it clear
when the time comes who donated what parts and what parts are being paid
for.
What I've got and am getting:
MV1662's - these replace the MV2115 - in stock
MVAM109 - on order
.001 Ceramic Caps (C48) - donated - in stock
.001 Poly Cap (C13, C14) - donated - in stock
2N7000 FET for mute circuit - donated - in stock
Audio transformer (T10) - donated - in stock
L2, L3, L4, L8 - on order
1N4007 (D6) - donated - not arrived
D5, D21 - due in
Metal 2N2222's - Brian Murrey, KB9BVN has put out an email on ordering
these. Please order directly from him.
brian@iquest.net Caps - Kenneth Hoglund, KG4FGC is assembling the cap kit, please contact
him directly for more information.
hoglund@wfu.edu POTS - Ed, N4EJG is handling these, please contact him directly if you
need more information.
edgerhardt@aol.com P2N2222's - I believe Brian has donated all of his and sent them out.
I've sent out 20 and have 30 left for the cause if someone needs them.
If someone wants to do a group buy on these, go for it - just announce
it here and handle the emails directly.
Resistors - You're on your own here, unless someone wants to kit them.
My feeling was Radio Shack has plenty of these in stock.
We still need T0-18 Heat Sinks. They are $2.86 for 2 at Mouser - I
thought that was kind of steep so I held off on ordering. If someone can
come up with a better deal, please let me know (or order 200 and let us
all know where to send the money ;) ).
Another plug: The 2N2/40 Special Edition of QRPp is still available. I
have one, it's really, really, good!!! No kidding, this is a true to
life gem. Inside, Jim, K8IQY walks you through building the radio
step-by-step with explanations of what each section does. The
illustrations are remarkable (done by Paul Harden, NA5N). The book is 66
pages long and spiral bound. Cost is $12 shipped to W/VE - obtain from:
Quicksilver Printing, P.O. Box 757, Socorro, New Mexico 87801
Jim, AL7FS sent out a good reminder a day or two ago: please reply
directly to the person who wrote the email when ordering parts. The
Yahoo thing makes it tricky 'cause it doesn't matter what reply button
you use, you always get the group - so a little cut + paste will go a
long way towards saving some bandwidth berries.
That's it! Thanks again folks, can't wait to start building.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comStephen,
I would be interested in the teflon covered wire. The enamel coated wire
is easy to come
up with around here so it wouldn't be worth your trouble to find it for
me.
Thanks,
Bill, K5ZTY
Houston, TX
|
289|229|2001-08-27 23:28:10|Lee S. Mairs|Re: Metal 2N2222's|Is it too late to get 10 of the 2N2222s?
73 de Lee, KM4YY
A good scapegoat is nearly as welcome as a solution to the problem.
Power corrupts, but absolute power is kind of neat.
The "c" in "rap" is silent.
-- Spotted on the Internet
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian" <brian@iquest.net>
To: "2N2" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2001 1:09 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Metal 2N2222's
> Guys,
>
> John mention my offer to provide 10 metal 2N2222's for $2 and 2 stamps and
a
> mailing label.
>
> PLEASE understand that I can only offer this on a one per person basis. I
> can only offer these to the first 40 orders I get in the US Mail with
> payment.
>
> TNX es 73
>
>
> ========================================
> KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
> QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
> FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
> TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
> INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
> SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
> ========================================
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Here is the list I have so far of builders needing metal 2N2222's
Delbert Long
Ed Howell
Patrick York
Dick Brummer
Mac Steinmeyer
So far those are the only five that have sent their orders in.
Brian Murrey - KB9BVN
47 Grassy Dr
New Whiteland IN 46184
$2 and 2 stamps gets you 10 pieces of TO18 2N2222 transistor. I can only
sell 40 sets at this price. US Mail your requests today.
=========================================================
KB9BVN NORCAL 2792 FISTS 5695 QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
GRID: EM69WN - Ten Tec Scout - Attic Dipole - 5w
Member of the American Radio Relay League - SOC #400
FISTS Century Club #764/#24 QRP - Flying PIG QRP #-57
=========================================================
|
291|291|2001-08-28 08:54:27|Shawn Upton|Re: Digest Number 15|Hello guys,
I haven't made up my mind yet whether or not to enter
the fray and build a kit. But, I'm curious--is there
anyone else in the New Hampshire, or at least the New
England, area who is building the 2n2/40?
Shawn Upton
KB1CKT
Pembroke, NH
|
292|292|2001-08-28 09:23:31|dmaliniak@penton.com|Quicksilver book vs. Winter '98 QRPp|I built my 2N2/40 directly from Jim's original article in the Winter
1998 edition of NorCal's QRPp. I've never seen the Quicksilver Press
spiral-bound version. Does anyone out there have both? If so, can you
run down what differences there are? I'm primarily interested in
whether the reprint has any additional material that the original
article doesn't.
72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJ
|
293|291|2001-08-28 10:32:29|Brian Murrey|Re: Digest Number 15|Ummm...that John Wagner guy in Vermont is rumored to be beuilding one.
He's N1QO (Quiet Operator)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shawn Upton" <kb1ckt@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 7:53 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Digest Number 15
> Hello guys,
>
> I haven't made up my mind yet whether or not to enter
> the fray and build a kit. But, I'm curious--is there
> anyone else in the New Hampshire, or at least the New
> England, area who is building the 2n2/40?
>
> Shawn Upton
> KB1CKT
> Pembroke, NH
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
OK Bill, you're #8 so far.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
On Mon, 27 Aug 2001 19:12:04 -0500 Bill Stietenroth <
k5zty@arrl.net>
writes:
> Stephen,
> I would be interested in the teflon covered wire. The enamel coated
> wire
> is easy to come
> up with around here so it wouldn't be worth your trouble to find it
> for
> me.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill, K5ZTY
> Houston, TX
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Gang,
Circuit Specialists/Webtronics has TO-18 heat sinks for $.79 each in
lots of 100. See...
http://store.yahoo.com/webtronics/semiconductor-devices-heat-sinks-for -to-18-case-type.html
I've used this source several times. Usual happy customer disclaimers.
72
Arth W6AGS 2N2/40 #16
>--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> OK Gang here's what's going on;
>
> First of all, we've reached 120 people on this mailing list
(actually
> less, there are some duplicates, but still 120 - WOW!). There are a
lot
> of folks building, a number of people here to help and some folks
just
> following along for fun. This is an OUTSTANDING amount of interest
and
> I'm very, very impressed with the Ham radio spirit that is so
prevalent
> in this group. For me, this is what ham radio is all about.
>
> On to the business of parts:
>
> There are 44 people who have expressed interest in obtaining parts
via
> group buys, etc... We have been planning for 50. If the number grows
to
> over 50, we'll have to adapt and overcome somehow, however I think
50
> will hold. Please don't hoard up on parts during these group buys,
let's
> make sure there are enough to go around first. Any extras can/will
be
> offered here.
>
> Some of the parts I have in hand have been donated (some of the
> donations have been LARGE). I've been reciting the calls of who
donated
> what in the past few emails but it's getting long. I'll make it
clear
> when the time comes who donated what parts and what parts are being
paid
> for.
>
> What I've got and am getting:
> MV1662's - these replace the MV2115 - in stock
> MVAM109 - on order
> .001 Ceramic Caps (C48) - donated - in stock
> .001 Poly Cap (C13, C14) - donated - in stock
> 2N7000 FET for mute circuit - donated - in stock
> Audio transformer (T10) - donated - in stock
> L2, L3, L4, L8 - on order
> 1N4007 (D6) - donated - not arrived
> D5, D21 - due in
>
> Metal 2N2222's - Brian Murrey, KB9BVN has put out an email on
ordering
> these. Please order directly from him. brian@i...
>
> Caps - Kenneth Hoglund, KG4FGC is assembling the cap kit, please
contact
> him directly for more information. hoglund@w...
>
> POTS - Ed, N4EJG is handling these, please contact him directly if
you
> need more information. edgerhardt@a...
>
> P2N2222's - I believe Brian has donated all of his and sent them
out.
> I've sent out 20 and have 30 left for the cause if someone needs
them.
> If someone wants to do a group buy on these, go for it - just
announce
> it here and handle the emails directly.
>
> Resistors - You're on your own here, unless someone wants to kit
them.
> My feeling was Radio Shack has plenty of these in stock.
>
> We still need T0-18 Heat Sinks. They are $2.86 for 2 at Mouser - I
> thought that was kind of steep so I held off on ordering. If someone
can
> come up with a better deal, please let me know (or order 200 and let
us
> all know where to send the money ;) ).
>
> Another plug: The 2N2/40 Special Edition of QRPp is still available.
I
> have one, it's really, really, good!!! No kidding, this is a true to
> life gem. Inside, Jim, K8IQY walks you through building the radio
> step-by-step with explanations of what each section does. The
> illustrations are remarkable (done by Paul Harden, NA5N). The book
is 66
> pages long and spiral bound. Cost is $12 shipped to W/VE - obtain
from:
> Quicksilver Printing, P.O. Box 757, Socorro, New Mexico 87801
>
> Jim, AL7FS sent out a good reminder a day or two ago: please reply
> directly to the person who wrote the email when ordering parts. The
> Yahoo thing makes it tricky 'cause it doesn't matter what reply
button
> you use, you always get the group - so a little cut + paste will go
a
> long way towards saving some bandwidth berries.
>
> That's it! Thanks again folks, can't wait to start building.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
> --
> John Wagner - john@w...
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
Gang,
I've tried to contact Pual Harden directly on shipping the book to Europe.
So far he didn't reply (can't really blame him, he must be flooded with
questions and other mail). Any other way of getting information on the cost
of sending 3 copies to the UK and accepted means of payment?
--Hubert
-----Original Message-----
From:
wb0wao@yahoo.com [mailto:
wb0wao@yahoo.com]
Sent: 26 August 2001 08:29
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Quicksilver Version
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Kenneth Hoglund wrote:
> Gang--
>
> Today at noon the Postal Service brought to my door the Quicksilver
> Press edition of QRPp with Jim's article on building the 2N2-40.
WOW!
Roger That! Got mine today too, and would have been a bargain at
twice the price! Very impressive and professionally done. Tells me
everything I need to know about how the rig works, how to build it,
etc. Guys, if you don't have a copy of this, RUN to the mailbox and
order one!
Usual disclaimer here, etc, etc.
Dennis - WB0WAO
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Here is the list I have so far of builders needing metal 2N2222's
Delbert Long
Ed Howell
Patrick York
Dick Brummer
Mac Steinmeyer
Hubert Smits
Ron Hambric
William Wood
John McDonough
Mikey Hall
John Fisher
Lee Mairs
and
Tom Dooley (Lay down yer head Tom Doooooo-Leeeee, lay down yer head to
cry....) <<-- SRI Tom...cudn't resist. One of my favorite old timey folk
songs.
If you want to take advantage of this offer:
Brian Murrey - KB9BVN
47 Grassy Dr
New Whiteland IN 46184
$2 and 2 stamps gets you 10 pieces of TO18 2N2222 transistor. I can only
sell 40 sets at this price. Ground Mail your requests today.
=========================================================
KB9BVN NORCAL 2792 FISTS 5695 QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
GRID: EM69WN - Ten Tec Scout - Attic Dipole - 5w
Member of the American Radio Relay League - SOC #400
FISTS Century Club #764/#24 QRP - Flying PIG QRP #-57
=========================================================
|
298|298|2001-08-28 19:52:59|Stephen M Smith|Re: Wire kit|Group,
The TFE part of the wire kit is a go and it looks probable that the
enamel wire will be included also but I'm still nailing that part of it
down. As soon as I do I'll make an announcement here with the details.
Thank you to everyone who e-mailed with input.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
Keep those soldering irons smokin' and "Snort Rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Surplus T0-18 heat sinks - 20 cents for 1-9, 100+ for ten cents each. Do
enough people need them to make a special order?
http://www.elexp.com/sem_p220.htm Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
Grid Square DM13av
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspMVAM109s got here today. If everyone of the 50 I bought for is going thru
John on the other parts I will just simplify the situation by sending them
to John. They are .50 cents each and you need 2 of em. John, please advise
if this AOK with you.
Mike Malone KD5KXF
PS Brian, yours are on way to you already (we are parts swappin piggies)
|
301|300|2001-08-29 00:18:28|Michael Hall|Re: MVAM 109's are here|Hi Mike,
never heard yoiu tonite during the Foxi hunt...but then I took a lightening
strike last night and the K2 is spread out all over the bench right now.
Antenna will be replaced tomorrow...what a bad day!!!.
As for the MVAM109s....either way is fine with me. Let me know if you want
the $$ or if I should send it to John.
Dah-Dit-Dah.... 72's/73's es oo's, Mikey...WB8ICN...SOC #456
Proud Piggie of Multi-Pig S/N #8..Homebrew QRP CW transceiver
K2 S/N 383, FISTS #7065, QRP ARCI #9982, MI QRP #1442, FPQRP #68
Flying Pigs QRP Net on Wed and Sundays on 7047.5KHz at 2100 EST
QCWA Chapter 10, Michigan - Net meets on Sundays, 3903 MHz at 0800 EST
http://www.qsl.net/wb8icn Backup
e-mail-wb8icn@arrl.net &
wb8icn@aol.com -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Malone <
mmalone@worldlogon.com>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 4:00 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] MVAM 109's are here
>MVAM109s got here today. If everyone of the 50 I bought for is going thru
>John on the other parts I will just simplify the situation by sending them
>to John. They are .50 cents each and you need 2 of em. John, please
advise
>if this AOK with you.
>Mike Malone KD5KXF
>
>PS Brian, yours are on way to you already (we are parts swappin piggies)
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hey guys, hold up on $... if we are sending John $ lets just do that. I
want to avoid spending more on postage than parts. That was kind of how it
felt on my MH101 project. I had as much in postage as I did in parts
... If is ok with John I will just have you guys send $ to him and we
can settle up when the dust settles. John? That OK?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Hall" <wb8icn@amexol.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 11:17 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] MVAM 109's are here
> Hi Mike,
>
> never heard yoiu tonite during the Foxi hunt...but then I took a
lightening
> strike last night and the K2 is spread out all over the bench right now.
> Antenna will be replaced tomorrow...what a bad day!!!.
>
> As for the MVAM109s....either way is fine with me. Let me know if you
want
> the $$ or if I should send it to John.
>
> Dah-Dit-Dah.... 72's/73's es oo's, Mikey...WB8ICN...SOC #456
> Proud Piggie of Multi-Pig S/N #8..Homebrew QRP CW transceiver
> K2 S/N 383, FISTS #7065, QRP ARCI #9982, MI QRP #1442, FPQRP #68
> Flying Pigs QRP Net on Wed and Sundays on 7047.5KHz at 2100 EST
> QCWA Chapter 10, Michigan - Net meets on Sundays, 3903 MHz at 0800 EST
> http://www.qsl.net/wb8icn Backup e-mail-wb8icn@arrl.net & wb8icn@aol.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Malone <mmalone@worldlogon.com>
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 4:00 AM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] MVAM 109's are here
>
>
> >MVAM109s got here today. If everyone of the 50 I bought for is going
thru
> >John on the other parts I will just simplify the situation by sending
them
> >to John. They are .50 cents each and you need 2 of em. John, please
> advise
> >if this AOK with you.
> >Mike Malone KD5KXF
> >
> >PS Brian, yours are on way to you already (we are parts swappin piggies)
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Brian, I'm not sure..but I don't think you will find a 2.4K resistor, so
just do a series of two or parallel them. If you need a set made up for
you, let me know.
OO's....Mikey
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian <
brian@iquest.net>
To: 2N2 <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, August 23, 2001 12:26 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Short
>Hi Gang,
>
>I am short one resistor part....the 2.4K model.
>
>Anyone got any spares?? I can not believe this. I have the Norcal resistor
>pack and a couple of piles of resistors accumulated from the shack and NO
>2.4K resistors. I wonder if I HAD them and lost them.
>
>PS - DO NOT BUY THE METAL 2N2222'S YET. I'll have info tomorrow.
>
>
>========================================
> KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
> QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
> FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
>TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
> INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
> SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
>========================================
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
As previously mentioned, I am working on a group buy on circuit boards with
a silk-screened parts layout directly on the surface of the board. The
board is set up for Manhattan style construction.
A board like this should be of interest those who are not familiar with
parts layout. The silk-screened parts layout is an "assist" for you.
The price of the board is $5, and I anticipate "S&H" of approximately $3,
bringing the total price to approximately $8. I should add that part of the
cost of the board is a contribution to the Arizona ScQRPions and their
QRP-related activities.
If you are interested in such a purchase, please reply directly to me at
k2jq@bestweb.net Please put "2N2-40 BOARDS" (no quotation marks) in the
Subject, and please indicate the two-letter postal abbreviation of the state
to which the board will be sent.
Please -- let's get this wrapped up by Friday at the latest. Some work
needs to be done on the board, and we want to coordinate this with John's
"build start" date of 10/1.
73,
Dick K2JQ
k2jq@bestweb.netYes.
Here's the deal, I'm going to have a bunch of donated parts and some
parts that we are paying for.
I'll list what is free and what isn't when the time comes.
The parts will not be offered separately.
I'm very close to wrapping up what I'm going to be sending out, so hang
tight for a few days.
Don't forget that Jim, K8IQY is doing the crystals - contact him
directly for those.
73 de John, N1QO
Mike Malone wrote:
>
> Hey guys, hold up on $... if we are sending John $ lets just do that. I
> want to avoid spending more on postage than parts. That was kind of how it
> felt on my MH101 project. I had as much in postage as I did in parts
> ... If is ok with John I will just have you guys send $ to him and we
> can settle up when the dust settles. John? That OK?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Hall" <wb8icn@amexol.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 11:17 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] MVAM 109's are here
>
> > Hi Mike,
> >
> > never heard yoiu tonite during the Foxi hunt...but then I took a
> lightening
> > strike last night and the K2 is spread out all over the bench right now.
> > Antenna will be replaced tomorrow...what a bad day!!!.
> >
> > As for the MVAM109s....either way is fine with me. Let me know if you
> want
> > the $$ or if I should send it to John.
> >
> > Dah-Dit-Dah.... 72's/73's es oo's, Mikey...WB8ICN...SOC #456
> > Proud Piggie of Multi-Pig S/N #8..Homebrew QRP CW transceiver
> > K2 S/N 383, FISTS #7065, QRP ARCI #9982, MI QRP #1442, FPQRP #68
> > Flying Pigs QRP Net on Wed and Sundays on 7047.5KHz at 2100 EST
> > QCWA Chapter 10, Michigan - Net meets on Sundays, 3903 MHz at 0800 EST
> > http://www.qsl.net/wb8icn Backup e-mail-wb8icn@arrl.net & wb8icn@aol.com
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Mike Malone <mmalone@worldlogon.com>
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Date: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 4:00 AM
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] MVAM 109's are here
> >
> >
> > >MVAM109s got here today. If everyone of the 50 I bought for is going
> thru
> > >John on the other parts I will just simplify the situation by sending
> them
> > >to John. They are .50 cents each and you need 2 of em. John, please
> > advise
> > >if this AOK with you.
> > >Mike Malone KD5KXF
> > >
> > >PS Brian, yours are on way to you already (we are parts swappin piggies)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 01:04 PM 8/29/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Brian, I'm not sure..but I don't think you will find a 2.4K resistor, so
>just do a series of two or parallel them. If you need a set made up for
>you, let me know.
>
>OO's....Mikey
Use 2.7 K as I posted before.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Greetings
I've not tried this with the newer resisters, but
I'd changed a few years ago, by sanding on one side.
These are cheap, and you can't really hurt much by
experimenting this way. Also if you want to protect
the innereds apply a little coil dope, or fingernail
polish when done adjusting the ohmage. But the 2.7
ohm is the best route probably.
I've also taken all the archive messages and
deleated much of the extranious redundancy and
whatever else I wanted to, and put it in Word format.
I did not check over the material for some errors,
like skipped redundancy etc, but if someone wants an
attachment with this, send the request to me off line
here, and I'll send it to you. It is large, and still
needs some more whittling down, and if you wait some I
might catch up, and whittle some more. Contact me
VIA:
ke9xq@aol.com PS some of the redundancy was I
have been receiving this with both E-mail addresses :
)
I think I might keep doing this, so will probably
have several files availiable shortly down the road.
I havn't tried any of the pictures yet, nor have I
asked permissions yet either. : )
72 list
Bill KE9XQ
> Brian, I'm not sure..but I don't think you will find
> a 2.4K resistor, so
> just do a series of two or parallel them. If you
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
http://im.yahoo.comGang,
Here is a post from QRP-L, a few years ago on changing the value of
resistors.
I copied it from the QRP archives.
Hope it helps.
Tom, WA3REY
Bob Tellefsen-CNSE97 <
Bob_Tellefsen-CNSE97@email.mot.com>
Mon, 16 Jun 1997 11:46:00 -0500
To:
KC4MHM@juno.com (Receipt Notification Requested)
Cc:
qrp-l@Lehigh.EDU Message-Id:
=MOT/C=US/@MHS>
Ed:
Filing a groove in resistors to raise them to a specific value is an old
dodge,
been in use for years.
You have to start with a resistor lower in value than your target value, but
fairly close. Then carefully file a groove across the body of the resistor,
removing a very small amount of resistor material at a time. As you reduce
the
effective cross section of the resistor, you increase its value. Use an
ohmmeter with an accuracy you trust to monitor your progress.
As a final touch, seal the opening with polystyrene coil dope, nail polish,
etc,
to prevent weather (humidity mostly) from degrading the exposed resistor
material.
73, Bob N6WGGroup,
The wire kit is perking along. More details to follow.
Now, who would be interested in a kit consisting of: 20 ea. PN2222A
(plastic), 5 ea. 2N2222A (metal) and 15 ea. 1N4148? (this will give you
a couple of spares to cover "oopsies") I'm guessing about $4.00 per kit,
shipped First Class Mail only. This would just cover my cost of the
parts, postage and a padded envelope. I'd need a minimum commitment of
20 kits to make it worth the hassle and to get the "right" price break on
the parts.
Some already have the transistors in their junk boxes or have purchased
from others on this list so this is another poll to see if doing this kit
would be worthwhile. HOWEVER, if you're not serious DON'T tell me that
you are because I will have to shell out $ for these parts (The
Scrounger's lair isn't -that- well endowed!) and I don't need a bunch
more 2222s sitting around, believe me.
(1.) E-mail me
sigcom@juno.com and indicate if you will purchase a kit if
I decide to do this one.
(2.) Indicate if you'd like 2 sets of 4 (8 diodes total) of the 1N4148s
matched to within 1 Ohm as per Jim K. If there's
enough interest in that -and- I decide to do this kit, I'll match
the diodes too.
(3.) Please respond OFF LIST!! (Don't use the "reply" button 'cuz it goes
right back to the list) Cut and past my addr.:
sigcom@juno.com . (I know, Yahoo is a pain that way and I goof up
too but it sure works neat for our little group,
don't it?)
Again, no promises but we'll see how it goes in the next few days. The
Teflon insulated wire kit -is- a go. I'm just waiting to see if I can
get the enamel wire to include (Delbert Long, AD6WE has been a -big- help
with that end of the deal. Thanks Del!).
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Gang--
In an extraordinary show of superior customer service, All Electronics
had my early Mon am order of electrolytics to my door this afternoon.
Looks like everything is there (no, I did not count 150 470mF cans, but
it is a big bag!).
Cap orders are coming from several other suppliers, and I'll soon be
able to post what this will cost for the whole mess. In the meantime,
get your self-addressed mailing labels ready--I will need them.
I might mention that we've got some very generous guys in this group,
All Electronics had the 470's at half of what other places were
charging, and we've swung some cool deals. I think all will be happy
with the end results. This is a great way to get the caps for the
project without beating all those bushes I did!
Stay tuned....
73
Ken KG4FGC
|
311|311|2001-08-29 23:01:53|Tom Little|Help.... I feel like a dummy!|I've replied to each of the offers for bulk purchases and since I
didn't get "bounced" mail I figured all the requests were making it.
Now I don't think they are getting thru.
I've also tried to get addresses so that I can send a message without
clicking on the address in the message posted to the group and I'm
not able to see the entire address. Can you please help me?
I am interested in every bulk or group purchase I've seen... just
trying to let the right people know.
Thank you!
Tom
N0DSP
n0dsp@msn.comJim,
Would any particular stage(s) benifit from having transistors that were
selected for higher Beta?
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Group,
So far, of the commitments I've received, 88% of those have requested
that the matched diodes be included. So if this trend holds and I get my
minimum commitment I'll do the kit and it looks like I'll be matchin' a
grip O' diodes :-).
Just as an aside, I measured a bunch of diodes I have around here
including 1N914 (of various manufacturers), 1N4148, 1N5711 (hot carrier)
and some unmarked H.P. hot carrier jobs. Out of the group, the 1N4148s
were most consistent in forward resistance. By that, I mean that out of
8 1N4148 diodes grabbed from a bag, 7 of them matched within one Ohm!
The other part numbers were all over the map although out of 12 of the
1N5711 (H.P.) I got two matched sets of 4. Just an interesting
observation, IMO. I've back-checked my process to make sure I'm getting
repeatable results and everything is OK so I am confident that, if this
kit goes, I'll be providing closely matched diodes.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Hi Group!
I ordered a small 4x6 sheet of 1/32 single sided board and I have to
report it is VERY easy to cut this stuff. I got one of the NJQRP
Manhattan kits with the 1/16 inch stuff, and it was a "chore" to snip
off the pads from the 3/16 strips - granted I may not have had the
best tool for the job! Took a while and my hand was "quite" sore! But
with the 1/32 inch stuff, it was easy to cut strips with a cheap pair
of tin snips and my clippers! Did about 200 pads in the time it took
me to make about 50 with the 1/16 stuff! Discovered that the 1/16
stuff is IDEAL for IC pads (from another project) and I will probably
use it for the "amp strip" on this project. But I plan on using the
1/32 pads for everything else, unless there is some reason NOT to use
1/32 stuff, and I haven't seen anything to suggest that. What say the
experts on this?
|
315|312|2001-08-30 09:01:49|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Beta|At 09:53 PM 8/29/01 -0700, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Would any particular stage(s) benifit from having transistors that were
>selected for higher Beta?
>
>73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
> WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
> "snort rosin"
Hi Steve,
Not really. None of the stages is using the full gain of
the device, but only part of it so that it doesn't depend on
the transistor gain. Conservative design!! :-)
72 and thanks for asking,
Jim, K8IQY
>________________________________________________________________
>GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
>Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
>Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
>http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 08:05 AM 8/30/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi Group!
>
> I ordered a small 4x6 sheet of 1/32 single sided board and I have to
>report it is VERY easy to cut this stuff. I got one of the NJQRP
>Manhattan kits with the 1/16 inch stuff, and it was a "chore" to snip
>off the pads from the 3/16 strips - granted I may not have had the
>best tool for the job! Took a while and my hand was "quite" sore! But
> with the 1/32 inch stuff, it was easy to cut strips with a cheap pair
>of tin snips and my clippers! Did about 200 pads in the time it took
>me to make about 50 with the 1/16 stuff! Discovered that the 1/16
>stuff is IDEAL for IC pads (from another project) and I will probably
>use it for the "amp strip" on this project. But I plan on using the
>1/32 pads for everything else, unless there is some reason NOT to use
>1/32 stuff, and I haven't seen anything to suggest that. What say the
> experts on this?
I use the 1/32 inch thick PC board material often too, especially
when I'm building with surface mount components, Manhattan-style.
That thickness keep the grounded components from being tilted too
much to look good, and makes the actual soldering easier. For
a given size pad, the capacitance to ground is a tad bit higher,
but doesn't seem to bother anything, including circuit stability.
Any your are correct, cutting it is a breeze!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Several people have indicated interest in heat sinks.
Since responding to individual requests for different numbers of heat sinks
would involve more than I want to get into, I am going to have 200 shipped
to John to include with his parts kit.
I am looking forward to a great QSO party when we all get this thing done!
Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
Grid Square DM13av
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Delbert Long"
wrote:
> I am looking forward to a great QSO party when we all get this thing
done!
Attaboy! Make that two of us. It'd be a crying shame *not* have one
once all these new rigs are built and working, wouldn't it? Hopefully,
we can get one together before winter propagation on 40 wanes.
72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJOn-line chat rooms are neat....You can find me on AIM with the screen
name W3ERU, .....thats me....dit dit
At 03:34 PM 8/30/01 +0000, you wrote:
>--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Delbert Long" wrote:
>
> > I am looking forward to a great QSO party when we all get this thing
>done!
>
>Attaboy! Make that two of us. It'd be a crying shame *not* have one
>once all these new rigs are built and working, wouldn't it? Hopefully,
>we can get one together before winter propagation on 40 wanes.
>
>72,
>David, AD2A
>Glen Rock, NJ
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Wes Clopton
5202 Colebrook Dr
La Plata, MD 20646
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Stephen M Smith
wrote:
> Group,
>
> the diodes too.
>
> (3.) Please respond OFF LIST!! (Don't use the "reply" button 'cuz
it goes
> right back to the list) Cut and past my addr.:
> sigcom@j... . (I know, Yahoo is a pain that way and I goof up
> too but it sure works neat for our little group,
> don't it?)
Steve and group -
If you want to respond to an individual directly, go to the top of
his e-mail and poke on his e-mail address which is displayed in
the "FROM:" line in hypertext (All lit-up blue in my browser!)
You get an e-mail box already addressed to that individual. At least
that works for me using Microsoft Internet Exploder. YMMV.
Not Yet Melting Solder,
Cam N6GAI found the 2.4k 1/4 watt carbon film resistors hiding at
Radio Shack on-line 0.07 cents each in qty of 10 or more...
Wes Clopton
5202 Colebrook Dr
La Plata, MD 20646
|
322|322|2001-08-30 18:07:00|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Crystal filter pricing|Gang,
I've just gone through all of the emails I got regarding
the availability of the crystal filters for the 2N2/40
project. So far, 38 of the variable bandwidth and 4 of the
fixed bandwidth filters have been requested. Therefore, I
am proceeding with the project and am planning on kitting
50 of the variable bandwidth units, and 10 of the the
fixed bandwidth units. Here are the prices:
Variable bandwidth - $9.00 US which includes domestic shipping.
Fixed bandwidth - $10.00 US which includes domestic shipping.
Shipping to Canada is only $1.00 US additional.
Shipping to other foreign countries is $5.00 US additional. If
it costs me more than that, I'll eat the difference.
I'll accept either a personal check, or a money order in US funds.
If a money order in US funds presents a hardship, email me and
we will work out some other arrangement. I've taken foreign
currency before and will spend it eventually in my travels someday. :-)
Here is what you get in each type filter package.
3 pole, variable bandwidth, 250-750 Hz
*5 crystals, 3 of which will be matched to within a 15 Hz spread.
The other 2 crystals are for the Rx and Tx local oscillators
*2 matched MV1662 varicap diodes
*2 100K resistors
*2 180pF NPO ceramic capacitors
*2 2.0 volt LEDs
*1 1.8K resistor
*1 10K miniature potentiometer
4 pole, fixed bandwidth, 500 Hz
*6 crystals, 4 of which will be matched to within a 20 Hz spread.
The other 2 crystals are for the Rx and Tx local oscillators
*2 47pF NPO ceramic capacitors
*2 150pF NPO ceramic capacitors
*3 220pF NPO ceramic capacitors
*2 4.7uH molded inductors
*4 330uH molded inductors
If you have not looked at the design of these filters, they are posted
on the Yahoo 2N2-40 group site. There is an inductor change on the
fixed filter from 270uH to 330uH. I'll post the reason why later,
for those who are interested.
If you feel the pricing is higher than you anticipated and want
to back out, that's fine, but please let me know via email, so
that your filter can go to someone else. Also, a few folks
asked for more than one filter. I've included those requests
in my count. If you want additional filter kits, please let
me know now, so that I can up the parts orders.
I have but one final request. Please don't buy one of these kits
and resell it for more than you paid for it, just to make a few
bucks. I'm doing this at cost and will be using a lot of my time.
I don't want someone profiting from my efforts. Also, please don't
order a kit if you really are not going to use it in a 2N2/40, thus
preventing someone else from getting a kit. If you're found out,
you'll be quite unpopular! :-)
Send your orders to: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
PO Box 108
Fenton, MI 48430
In your order, tell me how many of each kind of filter you want.
Hopefully it will match your earlier email. Also, include a
return address label, so that your filter reaches the corrrect
address. I will not cash your check or MO until your filter
kit(s) ship.
72 and GL to all on your upcoming 2N2/40 builds,
Jim, K8IQY
|
323|323|2001-08-30 21:04:53|Brian Murrey|Parts Shipments - Metal 2N2222's|Tonight I packed the following orders:
James Rue
Dan Birnbaum
Ron Hambric
Richard Brummer
Stagl - (You sent too many stamps, I sent some other goodies)
John McDonough
Mac Steinmeyer
TC Dufresne
Partrick York
William Wood
Delbert Long
So far that is who I have gotten payment from.
=========================================================
KB9BVN NORCAL 2792 FISTS 5695 QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
GRID: EM69WN - Ten Tec Scout - Attic Dipole - 5w
Member of the American Radio Relay League - SOC #400
FISTS Century Club #764/#24 QRP - Flying PIG QRP #-57
=========================================================
|
324|323|2001-08-30 22:02:19|Brian Murrey|Re: Parts Shipments - Metal 2N2222's|OOOOOPS!!
I forgot to mention Ed Howell.
Sorry!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Murrey" <brian@iquest.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 8:03 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Parts Shipments - Metal 2N2222's
> Tonight I packed the following orders:
>
> James Rue
> Dan Birnbaum
> Ron Hambric
> Richard Brummer
> Stagl - (You sent too many stamps, I sent some other goodies)
> John McDonough
> Mac Steinmeyer
> TC Dufresne
> Partrick York
> William Wood
> Delbert Long
>
> So far that is who I have gotten payment from.
>
>
> =========================================================
> KB9BVN NORCAL 2792 FISTS 5695 QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
> 39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
> GRID: EM69WN - Ten Tec Scout - Attic Dipole - 5w
> Member of the American Radio Relay League - SOC #400
> FISTS Century Club #764/#24 QRP - Flying PIG QRP #-57
> =========================================================
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Complete list of ops that have Metal 2N2222's in the mail to them as of now.
The lady at the bank thinks I'm running some kind of $2 betting scheme.
I told her I placed an ad in the paper that just said "Send $2
to me" and my address. Hahahahahah. HEY! I wonder if that'd work?
James Rue
Dan Birnbaum
Ron Hambric
Richard Brummer
Stagl
John McDonough
Mac Steinmeyer
TC Dufresne
Partrick York
William Wood
Delbert Long
Ed Howell
Mike Hall
John Wagner
Hubert Smits - Scotland Bound!
Mike Broga
Gody Siason
Lee Mairs
Tom Little
Tom Dooley
That accounts for half of what I am willing to cover at $2 for 10 pieces. I
was very tired while bagging these things up, so I can swear you got at
least 10, but probably more like 13 or 15. A couple of you sent lots of
extra stamps in to help with the guys that forgot or only sent one....you
two have been rewarded, much appreciated.
Smelt Soccer
=========================================================
KB9BVN NORCAL 2792 FISTS 5695 QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
GRID: EM69WN - Ten Tec Scout - Attic Dipole - 5w
Member of the American Radio Relay League - SOC #400
FISTS Century Club #764/#24 QRP - Flying PIG QRP #-57
=========================================================
|
326|326|2001-09-01 00:26:45|Kevin R. Murphy|Copper Strips for Manhattan Construction|I have made up packages of strips to send out. They are a mix of FR-
4 and phoenelic. Both work well. They should go out regular mail
tomorrow. I am sending out nine strips to each person who sent me an
SASE. This should cover all the project and then some. Here is the
list I have so far:
Paul Beckman
James Larson
Patrick York
TC Dufresne
Gody Siason (Sent money to help cover cost, Thanks Gody)
Dave Pomeroy (Sent money to help cover cost, Thanks Dave)
On a technical note: Easy way to remove the copper pad if you
misplaced it... Grip with the tips of needle-nose plyers
perpendicular to the board (straight up), and Twist. They pop right
off, ready to use again.
I hope to see more SASE's in my mailbox this weekend and Monday. I
used the money to buy more FR-4 board to make strips (takes about 1
hour to cut down 2 6" X 9" boards) and hope to do this on Monday.
Kevin
|
327|326|2001-09-01 07:31:25|ED Howell|Re: Copper Strips for Manhattan Construction|Kevin
Would like to have some of the strips for the project. If you send me your
address I will send you a SSAE. Thank you and enjoy your weekend...73...Ed
To reply off list send to
kb2nto@hfent.comAt 10:09 AM 8/31/01 -0700, Delbert Long wrote:
>-snip-
> BTW, I am looking at the board layout and wondering, is this an optional
> CW filter that I need to figure out a home for - I see xtal filters there
> already, but wonder whether they are for something else.
No, the crystal filters that I have been writing about are replacements
for the original filter shown in the published shematic. Unfortunately,
the MV2115 varicap diodes that I used in the original design are no
longer available. To use the currently available MV1662 varicap diode,
the crystal filter circuitry had to be redesigned. The new variable BW
filter design directly replaces the old one shown on the published
schematic, and the fixed bandwidth filter is an option that I thought
some might want in their rig for better opposite sideband
performance, since it it a 4 pole filter.
> Also, where is the preferred home for the RIT?
I built my RIT circuitry on a small substrate which was actually
soldered to the three potentiometer leads. This allowed me to
mount the whole affair by mounting the potentiometer to the front
panel. Worked quite well. There are pictures on my web site of
that arrangement. The RIT that I built for my homebrew SW-30++
used surface mount resistors, so was about 1/2 the size of the
original 2N2/40 RIT board. Exactly the same circuitry was used
in both. I can post a picture of that to the Yahoo 2N2-40 group
site if there is interest in seeing it.
> Maybe I should post these questions to the list......
I took care of that! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> The RIT that I built for my homebrew SW-30++
> used surface mount resistors, so was about 1/2 the size of the
> original 2N2/40 RIT board. Exactly the same circuitry was used
> in both. I can post a picture of that to the Yahoo 2N2-40 group
> site if there is interest in seeing it.
I would be interested in seeing it Jim.
I was looking at the schematic for the RIT board... Is there a way to
use a 10K pot in place of the 1K pot by changing the values of R4 and
R6? I have some 10K pots with 11 detents and thought that might work.
Kevin.--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Kevin R. Murphy"
wrote:
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > The RIT that I built for my homebrew SW-30++
> > used surface mount resistors, so was about 1/2 the size of the
> > original 2N2/40 RIT board. Exactly the same circuitry was used
> > in both. I can post a picture of that to the Yahoo 2N2-40 group
> > site if there is interest in seeing it.
>
> I would be interested in seeing it Jim.
>
> I was looking at the schematic for the RIT board... Is there a way
to
> use a 10K pot in place of the 1K pot by changing the values of R4
and
> R6? I have some 10K pots with 11 detents and thought that might
work.
>
> Kevin.
Upon realizing that RIT is just like the clarifier knob on HF rigs we
have in the aircraft I understand that 11 detents wouldn't be
desireable. I will just have to get the 1K center detent one.
Kevin.At 02:29 PM 9/1/01 +0000, you wrote:
>--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > The RIT that I built for my homebrew SW-30++
> > used surface mount resistors, so was about 1/2 the size of the
> > original 2N2/40 RIT board. Exactly the same circuitry was used
> > in both. I can post a picture of that to the Yahoo 2N2-40 group
> > site if there is interest in seeing it.
>
>I would be interested in seeing it Jim.
OK, I'll figure out a good way of showing the original
RIT board along with the newer one used in the SW-30++.
Perhaps I can paste up something with the two digital files.
Will announce to the 2N2-40 Yahoo gang when that picture is
available.
>I was looking at the schematic for the RIT board... Is there a way to
>use a 10K pot in place of the 1K pot by changing the values of R4 and
>R6? I have some 10K pots with 11 detents and thought that might work.
Well your second post answered part of the question. But actually,
if you multiply the values of R4 and R6 by 10, it all should work
fine. However, you wouldn't like those 11 detents. That pot might
be just the ticket though for the controlling the variable bandwidth
filter. You'd have sorta fixed bandwidths. I acutally had though
about that approach.
BTW, thanks for the crystals that you sent, but I can't really use
them for the filters that I am going to do. Mixing crystal
manufacturers is a no no in that business. What I did was measure
each one of them for you, and will send them back. I marked
the frequency of each on its side, and put blue marker on the
top of the three that I'd use a VBW filter. So you'll
have a good set of crystals for playing with or whatever. I
do appreciate your trying to help with that effort.
72 and GL with building your 2N2/40
Jim, K8IQY
PS.....do you have a ham ticket yet? I was trying to locate
your call in the QRZ database, and couldn't find you.
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
>
> PS.....do you have a ham ticket yet? I was trying to locate
> your call in the QRZ database, and couldn't find you.
Not yet. I take my test next Saturday, September 8th. In Grayling
at the hamfest.
Kevin.Group,
I built the audio amp. today using the transformer like the ones I
donated. It works good and there seems to be no difference in
performance when substituting the Radio Shack transformer in it's place.
I'll put the 'scope to the thing tomorrow and make some quantitative
measurements/comparisons. I'll also determine the value of the
resonating capacitor necessary for 750 Hz.
(Jim: I tried using my AADE but it won't measure either transformer, very
strange. Wonder if it's ailing? I know it works on small values of
inductance just fine but I haven't tried it on any known large-value
inductors.)
(plunkin' pads and snortin' rosin)
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
________________________________________________________________
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http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.At 11:13 PM 9/1/01 -0700, Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith wrote:
>-snip-
>(Jim: I tried using my AADE but it won't measure either transformer, very
>strange. Wonder if it's ailing? I know it works on small values of
>inductance just fine but I haven't tried it on any known large-value
>inductors.)
Steve,
Mine won't measure a Radio Shack transformer across the outside
leads either. I think the winding resistance is too high,
and the AADE doesn't like it. Measuring from the center tap
to one side I get 1.6 Henry, so the total winding ought to
to twice that, or 3.2 Henry. To resonate that transformer at
750 Hz would take a 0.014 uF capacitor according to my calculations.
Since that is a non-standard value, one would use a 0.015 uF.
Let us know if you can measure the transformer a half at a time.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
My AADE manual says its maximum inductance range is 100 mH, but most units
will go to 150 mH.
So it's not really suitable for power supply chokes (for example), but I
don't even know what the expected inductance range should be for an audio
transformer.
I usually measure power supply type chokes by measuring the resistance,
putting (measured) 60 Hz current thru the choke and measuring the voltage
across the choke. Then I can calculate the reactance and convert to
henries. (Z = V/I, then XL = SQRT(Z^2 - R^2) and finally, L = XL/377).
Don't know if 60 Hz would do OK on audio transformers or not. Probably
would be reasonably accurate.
72--Nick, WA5BDU
Proud 2N2/40 owner
(Jim: I tried using my AADE but it won't measure either transformer, very
strange. Wonder if it's ailing? I know it works on small values of
inductance just fine but I haven't tried it on any known large-value
inductors.)
(plunkin' pads and snortin' rosin)
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
|
336|336|2001-09-02 09:58:32|wb0wao@yahoo.com|RIT|Hey Gang,
Built the RIT unit today...that was FUN!!! Took a couple pics of it, and I will check tonite at work if they came out..and if so, anyone wanna see?
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
337|337|2001-09-02 10:59:00|Richard Brummer, K2JQ|2n2-40 BOARDS|Since I issued my request for interest in the silk-screened 2n2-40 boards, I
have received messages of interest from the following builders:
Lee, KM4YY
Brian, KB9BVN (2 boards)
Dave, K8DNP
Jim, AL7FS
Ed, KB2NTO (2 boards)
"Mikey" WB8ICN
Maxime VE2HAC
Tom, N0DSP (2 boards)
Pat, KF4LMZ
Dan, AD6JY
Brien, VE3VAW
That makes a total of 15 boards. The supplier has indicated that he makes
them in multiples of 10, so I'd like to see if I can get interest in 5 more
boards.
Any takers ?
Once again, to keep this off the list, please answer by private e-mail to
k2jq@bestweb.net with "2N2-40 BOARDS" (no quotation marks) in the Subject.
Please indicate the two-letter postal abbreviation for the state to which
the board will be shipped.
To answer an obvious question, "Why isn't K2JQ on the list ?"
I have an "original issue" board, and I'm going to attempt to "fly" with
that.
73,
Dick K2JQ
k2jq@bestweb.netHey Gang,
Looks like we're going to be able to make the 1 Oct start date no
problem.
Jim Kortge, K8IQY is taking orders for matching crystal sets. See his
message for details. Jim has also informed me that he is donating 50
T50-7's for the cause - thank you Jim!!!
I'm almost ready to send out what I've got, which consists of;
MV1662's - these replace the MV2115 - in stock
MVAM109 - on order - due in
2N7000 FET for mute circuit - donated - in stock
Audio transformer (T10) - donated - in stock
L2, L3, L4, L8 - in stock
1N4007 (D6) - donated - not arrived
D5, D21, Dx(VSWR protection mod) - donated - in stock
T50-7 - donated - due in
HS-1 - on order - due in
The two caps that I previously had were sent to Ken, KG4FGC for
inclusion in the cap kit. Contact Ken for more info if needed.
There are a couple of other parts buys in progress, watch here closely
for those announcements.
I'm going to look into shipping envelopes and postage next week and will
let you folks know how much the aforementioned parts will cost including
shipping and packaging. Stay tuned.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim,
Count me in for one of the variable bandwidth filter kits.
73,
Ken, KD2KW
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 03:48 PM 8/22/01 +0000, David, AD2A wrote:
>
> >Jim:
> >
> >Thanks much for posting the revised filter schematic. Looks like
> >something I'll want to try in my rig.
> >
> >One thing that confuses me in the revision, though, is the lack of
a
> >connection from the bottom of POT1 into the IF amp. Is this
> >connection
> >no longer necessary in the new scheme?
>
> Dave,
>
> In the original schematic, the bottom of POT1 was grounded. As
> shown on the schematic, it shared a ground symbol with a base
> bias resistor and bypass capacitor for transistor Q6. However,
> that was shown that way to conserve space in the schematic drawing.
> The lower end of POT1 should be grounded in the original filter
> configuration.
>
> In the new configuration, the lower end of POT1
> goes to the junction of the two LEDs, which sets the lower voltage
> level on the pot to about 2 volts. The highest voltage on the pot
> is about 4 volts, the series drop across the two LEDs. Therefore,
> the voltage on the wiper varies from 4 volts down to 2 volts with
> respect to ground. On the original circuit, the voltage varied
> from 13.8 volt to 0 volts with respect to ground. The voltage range
> in the new circuit is restricted because the capacitance change
> on the MV1662 is much greater than with the original MV2115.
>
> I hope all of that makes sense, and that I didn't confuse you.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
This is the second call for this potential kit:
Group,
Who would be interested in a kit consisting of: 20 ea. PN2222A
(plastic), 5 ea. 2N2222A (metal) and 15 ea. 1N4148? (this will give you
a couple of spares to cover "oopsies") I'm guessing about $4.00 per kit,
shipped First Class Mail only. This would just cover my cost of the
parts, postage and a padded envelope. I'd need a minimum commitment of
20 kits to make it worth the hassle and to get the "right" price break on
the parts.
Some builders already have the transistors in their junk boxes or have
purchased
from others on this list so this request is only a poll to determine if
doing this kit would be worthwhile. PLEASE, if you're not serious DON'T
tell me that
you are. The Scrounger's lair isn't well endowed with enough 2222s to do
this kit from "stock on hand" and I will have to shell out $ for these
parts. But I don't need a bunch more 2222s sitting around either,
believe me.
(1.) E-mail me <
sigcom@juno.com> and indicate if you will purchase a kit
if
I decide to do this one.
(2.) Indicate if you'd like 2 sets of 4 (8 diodes total) of the 1N4148s
matched to within 1 Ohm as per Jim K. If there's enough interest in that
-and- I decide to do this kit, I'll match the diodes too.
(3.) Please respond OFF LIST!! (Don't use the "reply" button 'cuz it goes
right back to the list) Cut and past my addr.: <
sigcom@juno.com>. (I
know, Yahoo is a pain that way and I goof up too but it sure works neat
for our little group, don't it?)
Again, no promises but we'll see how it goes in the next few days.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Hey Gang,
I just uploaded a pic of the RIT that I built this morning. Man,
ya gotta love this stuff!!!
Anyway, I have a question, I want to be able to switch the RIT in
and out of circut, so by looking at the schematic, I am thinking a
SPST switch from the line from the RIT to the L1 (high) should do the
trick, or am I wayyyyyyy off base here? Never got this in depth
before, so forgive me if I ask some basic questions.
72 es Dennis - WB0WAO
|
342|325|2001-09-03 15:02:06|Hubert Smits|Re: Metal 2N2222's shipping update - WHEW|Yep, arrived in bonny Scotland.
Thanks for the service, Hubert
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Murrey [mailto:
brian@iquest.net]
Sent: 31 August 2001 17:02
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Metal 2N2222's shipping update - WHEW
Complete list of ops that have Metal 2N2222's in the mail to them as of now.
The lady at the bank thinks I'm running some kind of $2 betting scheme.
I told her I placed an ad in the paper that just said "Send $2
to me" and my address. Hahahahahah. HEY! I wonder if that'd work?
James Rue
Dan Birnbaum
Ron Hambric
Richard Brummer
Stagl
John McDonough
Mac Steinmeyer
TC Dufresne
Partrick York
William Wood
Delbert Long
Ed Howell
Mike Hall
John Wagner
Hubert Smits - Scotland Bound!
Mike Broga
Gody Siason
Lee Mairs
Tom Little
Tom Dooley
That accounts for half of what I am willing to cover at $2 for 10 pieces. I
was very tired while bagging these things up, so I can swear you got at
least 10, but probably more like 13 or 15. A couple of you sent lots of
extra stamps in to help with the guys that forgot or only sent one....you
two have been rewarded, much appreciated.
Smelt Soccer
=========================================================
KB9BVN NORCAL 2792 FISTS 5695 QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
GRID: EM69WN - Ten Tec Scout - Attic Dipole - 5w
Member of the American Radio Relay League - SOC #400
FISTS Century Club #764/#24 QRP - Flying PIG QRP #-57
=========================================================
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/I may be excommunicated for blasphemy, but is it alright to use a
2N3904 in the RIT circuit. I have made a SMT board for it and the
only transistor I have in SMT is the MMST3904.
I was thinking that a board mounted on a POT lends itself to surface
mount technology and since I had the components why not make it small.
Kevin.
|
344|183|2001-09-03 17:30:06|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: New variable BW filter info now posted|At 12:04 AM 9/3/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Count me in for one of the variable bandwidth filter kits.
>
>73,
>Ken, KD2KW
Ken,
Got you on the VBW filter list.
72 and thanks,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:55 AM 9/3/01 +0000, Dennis - WB0WAO wrote:
>Hey Gang,
> I just uploaded a pic of the RIT that I built this morning. Man,
>ya gotta love this stuff!!!
I do......
> Anyway, I have a question, I want to be able to switch the RIT in
>and out of circut, so by looking at the schematic, I am thinking a
>SPST switch from the line from the RIT to the L1 (high) should do the
>trick, or am I wayyyyyyy off base here?
Sorry, that approach won't work. The problem with switching the line to L1
is that when the RIT is off, the VFO will be on an entirely
different frequency. One of the things you will find out when
you wire it in is that the VFO lower end will have moved down
several KHz, and will need to be brought back up. That's
a consequency of hooking additional capacitance, from the RIT
circuitry, across L1.
A better approach is to use a center detent potentiometer for
the RIT pot, R5, and put the pot in the center position when
you don't want any receive offset. There really isn't any
need to turn the RIT "off", as it doesn't have any effect on
the receive frequency when the offset pot is set in the middle
of its range. On transmit, the RIT is disabled by the Tx line,
so that the transmit frequency isn't offset from what it should
be. BTW, the Mouser part number for the pot to use for the
RIT is: 313-2000-1K. This pot has a very sharp detent, and
has given excellent service, and it's less than $1.50.
> Never got this in depth
>before, so forgive me if I ask some basic questions.
It was a very good question I thought. The answer is not
at all obvious unless you've worked with RIT circuits before,
especially analog ones. Doing RIT with a DDS type VFO is
a whole different animal, and doesn't get into the switching
problems associated with an analog VFO and RIT.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 07:08 PM 9/3/01 +0000, you wrote:
>I may be excommunicated for blasphemy, but is it alright to use a
>2N3904 in the RIT circuit. I have made a SMT board for it and the
>only transistor I have in SMT is the MMST3904.
>I was thinking that a board mounted on a POT lends itself to surface
>mount technology and since I had the components why not make it small.
>
>Kevin.
Kevin,
Any and all of the common "cockroach" breed of transistors are
useable in the 2N2/40 project. That list includes 2N2222, PN2222,
2N2219, 2N44xx series, 2N39XX series, and a host of others that
I'm probably not familiar with. If you got 'em, use 'em. I
need to add some SM 2N2222s to my junkbox one of these days
myself.
72 and happy RIT building,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I installed the new variable bandwidth filter using the MV1662s
in my 2N2/40 rig. It works as well there as it did on the bench,
hooked to the test instrumentation. So the new design has now
been built and tested "en rig". You're gonna like it!!
72 and look for me on 40 meters this week in the evenings.
Jim, K8IQY
PS....I'll put a picture of it on the Yahoo 2N2-40 website
as soon a Prodigy gets back up and running. Been without
any connections in Michigan for 1 and 1/2 days so far. :-(
|
348|348|2001-09-03 20:28:35|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|RIT pictures|Gang,
As promised, a composite picture showing the RIT boards that
are in my 2N2/40+ and SW-30++ is being uploaded to the Yahoo
2N2-40 group as I type this message. The SW-30++ version uses
some SM resistors. I also changed the layout from the previous
version, and it is quite a bit smaller.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
349|349|2001-09-03 22:08:13|Kevin R. Murphy|More RIT Pictures|Gang,
I posted the SMT board I made for the RIT. It is in 'Kevin Murphy
RIT' folder. Not the name I wanted, but I can't seem to change it.
I'll post a picture of it when I get it populated also.
Kevin
PS: Just 5 more days 'til the test. Wish me luck.
|
350|350|2001-09-04 00:28:47|camqrp@cyberg8t.com|Crystal Frequency Matching, a la K8IQY|Gang
My parts bin coughed up 16 crystals, all advertised as 4.915 MHz. So
I thought I'd roll my own filter.
In the past I'd checked crystal frequencies by sticking them in an
test oscillator circuit, but I saw a note by Jim K8IQY wherein he
described how he did the checking by exciting the crystal with an
external RF source. A couple of e-mails later, and I had constructed
a copy of Jim's test fixture.
It's very easy to put together and it works very well. In Jim's
words,
"
the important thing is that the crystals are
matched using a mode that is similar to how they will be driven
in the filter, not from being run in an oscillator. I think it
makes a big and important difference in the quality of the resulting
filter."
I found my 16 crystals to be all over the map, and it ended up that
only three of them were suitable for use in a filter! Lucky stars, I
only need three.
Anyway, if anyone wants more info on this method of xtal matching, e-
mail me off-list and I'll shoot you the details.
-Cam N6GA
|
351|347|2001-09-04 10:39:29|dmaliniak@penton.com|Re: Variable bandwidth filter report|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> Gang,
>
> I installed the new variable bandwidth filter using the MV1662s
> in my 2N2/40 rig. It works as well there as it did on the bench,
> hooked to the test instrumentation. So the new design has now
> been built and tested "en rig". You're gonna like it!!
>
Jim and all:
For what it's worth, I, too, installed the revised VBW filter circuit
this weekend as well. Works great! Unfortunately, I have no idea what
my filter bandwidths were before or after the change. But from a
subjective POV, it seems to be narrower than the original filter when
cranked all the way down. And there seems to be little loss of the
desired signal through the filter. All in all, a good modification,
I'd say.
The only iffy thing is that I really don't know what the forward drop
is for the red LEDs I used. On the one I installed across the pot, I
measured about 1.5V. Could that be limiting the filter performance in
any way?
One of those LEDs might end up re-installed in the front panel as an
on/off indicator... gotta love little lights on front panels.
Jim, I also replaced the 1N4004 diode I had in my RIT with the MV209.
Gives me about +/-1.5 kHz. More than enough for most circumstances.
72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJ
2N2/40 #20Greetings folks
Just a quick question: The price of surface mount
components is in my mind rediculous, and was wondering
if you knew of a cheap source, or if there were anyone
out there thinking a group buy would be worth while.
I've purchased a couple of those $15 bags from
Electronic Goldmine, but still do not have the
assortment I need/want. Any ideas??? Thanks for the
patience peoples.
72
Bill KE9XQ
__________________________________________________
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http://im.yahoo.comAt 02:29 PM 9/4/01 +0000, David, AD2A wrote:
>-snip-
>Jim and all:
>
>For what it's worth, I, too, installed the revised VBW filter circuit
>this weekend as well. Works great! Unfortunately, I have no idea what
>my filter bandwidths were before or after the change. But from a
>subjective POV, it seems to be narrower than the original filter when
>cranked all the way down. And there seems to be little loss of the
>desired signal through the filter. All in all, a good modification,
>I'd say.
>
>The only iffy thing is that I really don't know what the forward drop
>is for the red LEDs I used.
Measure them! Use a DMM across each LED. If they are the same,
the one that is grounded will show a tad more voltage, a few
millivolts typically, than the one with the pot across it.
> On the one I installed across the pot, I
>measured about 1.5V. Could that be limiting the filter performance in
>any way?
Indeed. If both LEDs are that way, the filter will probably be
less than 200 Hz on one end, and about 600 Hz on the other end.
More voltage gives a wider bandwidth, less voltage a narrower
bandwidth. At 2 volts, the filter will be about 250 Hz wide,
and at 4 volts, about 750 Hz wide. That's why 2 volt LEDs are
shown in the schematic.
>One of those LEDs might end up re-installed in the front panel as an
>on/off indicator... gotta love little lights on front panels.
Yes, I thought of that too. There are more LEDs to follow, so
don't go doing that yet. Another option is just around the
corner!!
>Jim, I also replaced the 1N4004 diode I had in my RIT with the MV209.
>Gives me about +/-1.5 kHz. More than enough for most circumstances.
Good. That's what I am getting with the MV209 also. A 1N4004 is
a good alternate if you can't find the MV209, but that part works
better.
72 and thanks for the update Dave,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
What is the function of the inductors across the crystals in the
fixed-bandwidth filter?
Also, how did you arrive at the number of turns to use on the DBM
transformers? I decided to learn a bit more about them and all the info
I have (Handbook, S-S R.F. Design and other texts) shows typical windings
from 5 trifilar turns to 10. The texts allude to a correlation of
inductance to mixer bandwidth but never get specific. I'm sure that it's
not ultra critical and I know that the 10 turn transformers work just
fine but I was just trying to learn more.
I cracked open a bad SBL-1 mixer and man, are those transformers -tiny-
:-).
TNX
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Subject says it all. Also, why do I need one for my 2N2-40?
My understanding is that if signals were "water" a variable bandwidth filter
is like a "sieve" and I can control how much "signal" (water) I get by
varying the size of the "holes". Large "holes" lots of signals-smaller
holes, less signals, better resolution.
Am I way off base here?
Yes I did consult my 1981 ARRL handbook.....Hey, its all I got-well, ok I do
have a 1976, '85 and a 1988
Tom
KC0GXX
|
356|354|2001-09-04 21:10:09|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Fixed bandwidth filter & DBM Q's|At 01:32 PM 9/4/01 -0700, Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith wrote:
>Jim,
Greetings Steve,
>What is the function of the inductors across the crystals in the
>fixed-bandwidth filter?
Ah ha, somebody finally noticed those! Those are to cancel out
the holder capacitance of the crystal.
Typically, a crystal
will have a holder capacitance from between 3pF to maybe 5pF.
One of the important parameters one must measure if a really
good filter is to be built. The effect of the holder capacitance
is to cause the parallel resonance that exists in all common
crystals. That resonance is higher in frequency than the series
resonance by several KHz. For the crystals that I use, it's
about 10 KHz higher without the crystal case grounded, and with
the case grounded, about 12 KHz.
If one builds a filter without
compensating for the holder capacitance, the higher frequency
slope of the filter will be much steeper than the lower frequency
slope, all due to the effect of the parallel resonance existing
up higher in frequency. These filters are often termed "lower
sideband" filters, as they have a sharper cutoff on the higher
frequency slope. However, the are less versatile, since they
can't easily be used where the upper sideband is needed in a
design, such as a 2N2/40 rig. By adding the inductors across
the crystal at the right inductance, the holder capacitance is
cancelled out, the lower and upper passband slopes are equal,
or nearly so, and the filter will function for either an upper
or lower sideband filter.
Computing the value of the inductor is actually quite easy. One
measures the holder capacitance, and computes the equivalent
capacitive reactance using the crystals series resonant frequency.
The formula would be:
Xc = 1/(2*pi*Fs*Co)
From this value of capacitive reactance, you then compute the
value of the inductor which would have the same reactance, but
inductive instead. The formula for that is:
L = Xc/(2*pi*Fs)
If the resulting inductor isn't exactly a standard value, you pick
the closest on to the computed result, and take the resulting
error in the passband slope, or add a trimmer across each inductor
and
>Also, how did you arrive at the number of turns to use on the DBM
>transformers? I decided to learn a bit more about them and all the info
>I have (Handbook, S-S R.F. Design and other texts) shows typical windings
>from 5 trifilar turns to 10. The texts allude to a correlation of
>inductance to mixer bandwidth but never get specific. I'm sure that it's
>not ultra critical and I know that the 10 turn transformers work just
>fine but I was just trying to learn more.
>
>I cracked open a bad SBL-1 mixer and man, are those transformers -tiny-
>:-).
>
>TNX
>
>73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
> WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
> "Snort Rosin"
>________________________________________________________________
>GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
>Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
>Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
>http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
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At 11:42 PM 9/4/01 +0100, Tom, KC0GXX wrote:
>Subject says it all. Also, why do I need one for my 2N2-40?
>
>My understanding is that if signals were "water" a variable bandwidth filter
>is like a "sieve" and I can control how much "signal" (water) I get by
>varying the size of the "holes". Large "holes" lots of signals-smaller
>holes, less signals, better resolution.
>Am I way off base here?
No, actually its a good analogy. The width of the filter controls
how strong adjacent signals are, if you are centered on one. Not
very important when the band isn't crowded, but could be more
important when everyone is on, like a fox hunt.
Why do you need it. You don't, but it is a nice to be able to
adjust the receive passband to the width required for the type
of operating you are doing. Also, if the band is noisy,
narrowing the passband makes listening easier. But, if the
filter were only a narrow one, it would be great at times,
noisy/crowded, but a royal pain as you tune the band. You
could tune right past a station and not know it was there
if the filter were narrow enough and had really sharp cutoff
characteristics.
>Yes I did consult my 1981 ARRL handbook.....Hey, its all I got-well, ok I do
>have a 1976, '85 and a 1988
You should treat yourself to a new one! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Steve count me in on one of the Transistor kits -
Let me know when to and where to send money.
Ron Hambric
N5SBN
|
359|347|2001-09-06 09:57:40|dmaliniak@penton.com|Re: Variable bandwidth filter report|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> >The only iffy thing is that I really don't know what the forward
drop
> >is for the red LEDs I used.
>
> Measure them! Use a DMM across each LED.
Jim:
Ok, ok, he said sheepishly! Solder first and measure later, I always
say. You should see my carpentry. :-)
Digging around the junque box, I came up with two green LEDs that both
dropped about 1.95 V. The red ones I'd already installed in the filter
in my rig dropped about 1.68 V. After replacing the reds with the
greens, I can't say that I can hear a difference in the filter but I
feel better about the whole thing somehow. And, as usual, I learned
something in the process.
So what's cooking with more LEDs? Hmmm?
72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJ
2N2/40 #20Jim,
I understand that the RIT is used as a clarifier, but what is C3 used
for if it is adjustable?
Kevin
|
361|360|2001-09-06 23:29:03|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: RIT circuit C3|At 07:51 PM 9/6/01 +0000, Kevin wrote:
>Jim,
>I understand that the RIT is used as a clarifier, but what is C3 used
>for if it is adjustable?
Kevin
C3 is adjustable so that you can set the maximum amount of RIT
control that you want on your rig. Some prefer 1 KHz of offset
at either end of the pot rotation, but I like a bit more. I've
got mine set for about +/- 1.5 KHz. Wtih that trimmer, you can
go all the way from nearly zero offset, to very near +/- 2 KHz.
Of course, a fixed capacitor in the range of 5 to 47 pF could
also be used, and you just pick the value of capacitor that
you need for the amount of RIT you prefer. I think the
trim cap approach is much nicer, and you can change your
setting later on if you decide you don't like it.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I've posted a couple of photos of my rig to the website for anyone
who's interested. If you've seen Jim's work, mine's the opposite in
terms of esthetics. Getting it working was hard enough for me, never
mind bee-you-ti-ful.
The photos were taken a while back and the rig looks a bit different
nowadays. If I can ever get my hands on a digital camera again I'll
take more. I've labeled the front and rear panels, for one thing. The
other major changes since those photos were taken are the addition of
RIT (to the rear panel, unfortunately) and a switch to Jim's revised
variable BW filter setup.
So here's a benchmark for you... try to make yours prettier than mine.
It won't be too tough. :-)
72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJ
|
363|363|2001-09-08 22:00:44|Kenneth Hoglund|Caps Kitting!|All the caps have arrived, and my garage is being turned into an
assembly line for the caps kit. If you sent a message to reserve one, I
need two things from you: a self-addressed label of some sort, and $7 in
check or money order. For those of you who are DX'rs on this project,
I'll be in touch via email for your address, and we'll figure something
out for an "exchange of value" (probably cheaper than either of us
dealing in another currency). Once the kit is in the mail, I'll let you
know via email that its on the way.
If you asked to reserve a kit, and now no longer need it, please let me
know. There have been inquiries about the availablility of other kits.
If you didn't reserve a kit, and are now kicking yourself, there may be
hope: send me an email letting me know and I'll see what we can do.
Just to re-cap (HIHI) the caps kit includes all NPOs, polys,
silver-micas, and electrolytics for the project. It also includes 19
.22mF ceramic caps, and the alternative cap values for the Improved Rx
Mute Circuit (on K8IQY's website) and the Variable Bandwidth Crystal
filter.
If you have any questions, just fire off an email and I'll try and
answer it ASAP.
73
Kenneth Hoglund KG4FGC
5050 Cobblestone Rd.
Winston-Salem, NC 27106
|
364|364|2001-09-09 13:28:10|sigcom@juno.com|Last Call!: Transistor Kit w/1N4148|THIS IS THE FINAL CALL for those interested in this potential kit:
(Following is a repeat of a previous post to the list. Please delete if
you have already responded, thanks)
Group,
Who would be interested in a kit consisting of: 20 ea. PN2222A
(plastic), 5 ea. 2N2222A (metal) and 15 ea. 1N4148? (this will give you
a couple of spares to cover "oopsies") I'm guessing about $4.00 per kit,
shipped First Class Mail only. This would just cover my cost of the
parts, postage and a padded envelope. I'd need a minimum commitment of
20 kits to make it worth the hassle and to get the "right" price break on
the parts.
Some builders already have the transistors in their junk boxes or have
purchased
from others on this list so this request is only a poll to determine if
doing this kit would be worthwhile. PLEASE, if you're not serious DON'T
tell me that
you are. The Scrounger's lair isn't well endowed with enough 2222s to do
this kit from "stock on hand" and I will have to shell out $ for these
parts. But I don't need a bunch more 2222s sitting around either,
believe me.
(1.) E-mail me <
sigcom@juno.com > and indicate if you will purchase a
kit
if
I decide to do this one.
(2.) Indicate if you'd like 2 sets of 4 (8 diodes total) of the 1N4148s
matched to within 1 Ohm as per Jim K. If there's enough interest in that
-and- I decide to do this kit, I'll match the diodes too.
(3.) Please respond OFF LIST!! (Don't use the "reply" button 'cuz it goes
right back to the list) Cut and past my addr.: <
sigcom@juno.com >. (I
know, Yahoo is a pain that way and I goof up too but it sure works neat
for our little group, don't it?)
Again, no promises but we'll see how it goes in the next few days.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Steve,
I don't know if I have already emailed you or not.
If you still have a transistor kit available I'll take
it. Thanks for taking the time.
---
sigcom@juno.com wrote:
> THIS IS THE FINAL CALL for those interested in this
> potential kit:
>
> (Following is a repeat of a previous post to the
> list. Please delete if
> you have already responded, thanks)
>
> Group,
>
>
> Who would be interested in a kit consisting of: 20
> ea. PN2222A
> (plastic), 5 ea. 2N2222A (metal) and 15 ea. 1N4148?
> (this will give you
> a couple of spares to cover "oopsies") I'm guessing
> about $4.00 per kit,
> shipped First Class Mail only. This would just
> cover my cost of the
> parts, postage and a padded envelope. I'd need a
> minimum commitment of
> 20 kits to make it worth the hassle and to get the
> "right" price break on
> the parts.
>
> Some builders already have the transistors in their
> junk boxes or have
> purchased
> from others on this list so this request is only a
> poll to determine if
> doing this kit would be worthwhile. PLEASE, if
> you're not serious DON'T
> tell me that
> you are. The Scrounger's lair isn't well endowed
> with enough 2222s to do
> this kit from "stock on hand" and I will have to
> shell out $ for these
> parts. But I don't need a bunch more 2222s sitting
> around either,
> believe me.
>
> (1.) E-mail me < sigcom@juno.com > and indicate if
> you will purchase a
> kit
> if
> I decide to do this one.
>
> (2.) Indicate if you'd like 2 sets of 4 (8 diodes
> total) of the 1N4148s
> matched to within 1 Ohm as per Jim K. If there's
> enough interest in that
> -and- I decide to do this kit, I'll match the diodes
> too.
>
> (3.) Please respond OFF LIST!! (Don't use the
> "reply" button 'cuz it goes
> right back to the list) Cut and past my addr.: <
> sigcom@juno.com >. (I
> know, Yahoo is a pain that way and I goof up too but
> it sure works neat
> for our little group, don't it?)
>
> Again, no promises but we'll see how it goes in the
> next few days.
>
>
> 73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
> WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
> "snort rosin"
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for
> less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
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>
=====
Dave Pomeroy K8DNP Southwest Michigan
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
http://im.yahoo.comGang,
Sorry about sending that kit message to the list.
=====
Dave Pomeroy K8DNP Southwest Michigan
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
http://im.yahoo.comHello again gang.
I recieved my Quicksilver book on Friday and I am quite happy with
it. If anyone was waiting for another testimonial before ordering
theirs I would recommend it. Highly.
On another note...
I took my test for Technician last Saturday. I passed the
technician. Only missed one question, on 13cm band limits. I also
took the code test. Alas, that one I didn't pass. I plan to take it
again within a few weeks. So I must qrt to study the code now.
Kevin.
PS: has everyone gotten their copper strips yet? Are you happy with
them?
|
368|367|2001-09-10 11:48:15|John Wagner|Re: QuickSilver Book and Test|Kevin,
Congratulations on getting your Technician ticket! I'm sure you'll be
anxiously awaiting your new call sign - be sure to let us know what it
is when you get it. Stay with the code, like all things it will come
with practice. The good news is once you get your code test out of the
way, CW becomes FUN because you're actually using it to communicate
with.
And yes, the 2n2/40 book is excellent. To recap how to order in case
anyone missed it;
> You can order a copy of the
> issue from Paul Harden, NA5N, at Quicksilver Printing, PO Box 757, Socorro,
> NM 87801 for $12 postpaid. Please enclose a self addressed mailing label
> and indicate that you are ordering the 2N2/40 Special Issue of QRPp.
Update on parts:
Jim, K8IQY is taking orders for crystal sets.
Ken, KG4FGC is taking orders for caps.
Ed, N4EJG is going to announce a bulk-buy for POTS soon.
I will be announcing how to order the mish-mash of stuff I've got (some
donated, some bought) soon.
73 de John, N1QO
"Kevin R. Murphy" wrote:
>
> Hello again gang.
> I recieved my Quicksilver book on Friday and I am quite happy with
> it. If anyone was waiting for another testimonial before ordering
> theirs I would recommend it. Highly.
> On another note...
> I took my test for Technician last Saturday. I passed the
> technician. Only missed one question, on 13cm band limits. I also
> took the code test. Alas, that one I didn't pass. I plan to take it
> again within a few weeks. So I must qrt to study the code now.
> Kevin.
>
> PS: has everyone gotten their copper strips yet? Are you happy with
> them?
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comKevin,
Congratulations on passing the Technician exam! And only missing one
question to boot! That's great!! (I'm embarassed to say how many
questions I missed when I passed my Extra a couple of years ago. Let's
just say I squeaked by and leave it at that, HA!).
You'll get the code, just relax and don't worry. Can't wait until you're
posting your call sign here on the list.
Thanks for your volunteer efforts in helping the group get this project
off the ground.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Group,
Thanks to your enthusiastic response for the transistor/diode kit for the
2N2-40 it is now officially a "go".
Contents:
20 ea. PN2222A (plastic)
5 ea. 2N2222A (metal)
15 ea. 1N4148
8 of the 15 diodes will be of 2 sets matched to within 1 Ohm per Jim K.
for the receive DBM and transmit mixers.
Cost will be $4.00 per kit, USPS First Class postage included.
I will be placing the order for the parts this afternoon or tomorrow.
Do not send money yet! After the parts are received I will announce
where to send money and other details.
Thanks everyone for your response.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
371|371|2001-09-11 08:55:48|Basil Rabinowitz|2N2/40 with the NJ Islander|Now that the QHB #6 has arrived, I can come out of the closet. In the latest issue there is an article on building an audio amp by Jim Kortge using the NJ Islander technique. This uses a 5mm end mill in a drill to cut the pads directly onto the substrate. I highly recommend this for building your 2N2/40. I have built my VFO (and have it working) using this method and it looks pretty nice (sorry no pics yet...).
The one problem that I have found is that it is easy to build "too tight". I landed up with a VFO footprint that is 2/3 of the size recommended in Jim's layout. This is fine if you can get everything in OK and don't have to change components if they blow (or if should, in the rare event, you make an error). However, it looks neater and is easier to work with if you spread out the pads. If any of you are getting the silkscreened layout then this is a slam dunk. You can literally drill all the pads directly onto the substrate in about five minutes before you start building. No pad punching and gluing. You may want to hold on to the strip material for some of the larger pads like in the final amp.
If you don't subscribe to QHB then this is a personal recommendation that you try it - see www.njqrp.org for details. Also, George Heron who tirelessly does so much for the QRP community is offering this bit for $9 shipped to your door - a bargain price ! If you want to order a bag-of-parts (for only $9 shipped) for the audio amp described by Jim in QHB #6 then George will send the bit for a reduced $7. George's email is
n2apb@amsat.org.
The above is entirely unsolicited. The payback I get is if you try this technique, like it and use it - it's called personal satisfaction. It's also called "thanking George for all his efforts".
Although I started on this 2N2/40 some time before this group formed, I'm sure that you will all probably finish way before me due to the limited time I have to devote to this. I would like to add one note concerning the component buys that are being offered on this group reflector. There are a number of individuals who have given freely of their time and in some cases have donated components free of charge. Having kitted mine on my own, I can testify that a) it takes a lot of time and b) the prices of the components that are being offered are a bargain. Although I have not benefitted directly from this I believe that as a group we owe a big thanks to all the people involved in this and especially to John Wagner for leading the charge.
****************************************************************
Please Note
The information in this E-mail message is legally privileged
and confidential information intended only for the use of the
individual(s) named above. If you, the reader of this message,
are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that
you should not further disseminate, distribute, or forward this
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*****************************************************************
Sorry for the bandwidth - been trying to post from my email client
for a couple of days and the list doesn't seem to be working for me.
If this goes through I will follow it up with a parts update...
73 de John, N1QO
|
374|287|2001-09-13 08:44:21|John Wagner|PARTS UPDATE|Gang,
First of all, my heartfelt thoughts and prayers are with anyone on
this list who has been directly or indirectly affected by yesterdays
attacks on our great nation. I am personally in a state of disbelief
at the magnitude of these attacks. As a veteran and patriot I take
these attacks personally.
The sad fact is at this point I find my inspiration to work on this
project to be waning in light of the insurmountable problems and grief
that so many of my fellow Americans are dealing with. The stories I've
read and images on TV will forever alter my view of the world.
However; I've decided to continue on with this radio and hope the rest
of the folks here who are still up to it will as well. Here is an
update on the parts I'm working on;
MV1662's - these replace the MV2115 - in stock
MVAM109 - due in
2N7000 FET for mute circuit - donated - in stock
Audio transformer (T10) - donated - in stock
L2, L3, L4, L8 - in stock
1N4007 (D6) - donated - not arrived
D5, D21 and D? - donated - in stock
Heat sinks - in stock
Female BNC - donated and in stock
I am waiting for a shipment of donated(!) T50-7's and will then begin
building kits.
I don't have a price for these parts yet. As a good amount of them
were donated the cost will be fairly low. Good news for VE's on the
list is that I can accept CAN $'s and ship direct from Canada. Since
the cost will be less then $15 CAN it is duty free (I checked this
with a friend who works at Canadian customs).
Other folks are handling buys on POTS, Caps and other various parts -
please look for their posts for more information. Jim, K8IQY is
handling crystals.
73 de John, N1QO
|
375|287|2001-09-13 10:25:45|Wes Clopton|Re: PARTS UPDATE|John, Im sure glad to hear you are still proceeding. If it had not been
for the 2N2-40 project to keep my hands and mind busy the last two days I
would be crazy by now.....Im waiting for parts to complete it..
I started super gluing the pads and laying out the pattern on the main
board . This method of construction is fun and a education. Laying out the
circuit path on top of the board ground plain is great. Im using an
assortment of PC PADS that Dans Small Parts was sold last year. That
saved me a lot of work..Im still shooting for RF on the air and 40 meter
QSO's the first of Oct...Just awaiting parts......
At 12:41 PM 9/13/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>First of all, my heartfelt thoughts and prayers are with anyone on
>this list who has been directly or indirectly affected by yesterdays
>attacks on our great nation. I am personally in a state of disbelief
>at the magnitude of these attacks. As a veteran and patriot I take
>these attacks personally.
>
>The sad fact is at this point I find my inspiration to work on this
>project to be waning in light of the insurmountable problems and grief
>that so many of my fellow Americans are dealing with. The stories I've
>read and images on TV will forever alter my view of the world.
>
>However; I've decided to continue on with this radio and hope the rest
>of the folks here who are still up to it will as well. Here is an
>update on the parts I'm working on;
>
>MV1662's - these replace the MV2115 - in stock
>MVAM109 - due in
>2N7000 FET for mute circuit - donated - in stock
>Audio transformer (T10) - donated - in stock
>L2, L3, L4, L8 - in stock
>1N4007 (D6) - donated - not arrived
>D5, D21 and D? - donated - in stock
>Heat sinks - in stock
>Female BNC - donated and in stock
>
>I am waiting for a shipment of donated(!) T50-7's and will then begin
>building kits.
>
>I don't have a price for these parts yet. As a good amount of them
>were donated the cost will be fairly low. Good news for VE's on the
>list is that I can accept CAN $'s and ship direct from Canada. Since
>the cost will be less then $15 CAN it is duty free (I checked this
>with a friend who works at Canadian customs).
>
>Other folks are handling buys on POTS, Caps and other various parts -
>please look for their posts for more information. Jim, K8IQY is
>handling crystals.
>
>73 de John, N1QO
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
Gang:
I started the project last nite. This thing looks like a lot of fun. I tried
to take my time, and will attempt to test each stage as I go. With my more
than limited skills, I am a bit nervous, but I am learning!
Learned a few things right off....
1) Make sure your parts are layed out/organized in a fashion you are
comfortable with. A bunch of parts and pieces chucked in a box doesn't cut
it. I notice some use paper cups, muffin tins, cardboard boxes, and plastic
trays/bins. I lay out my parts on the bench, and label label label. Order
is life.
2) Check your diagrams, then check again before you put "them pads" (sic)
on...that super glue is tough stuff! I used a combination of the reprint of
the original article in QRPp anf the one on the internet.
3) A tweezers and a steady hand is helpful!
4) My fine tipped soldering iron is too cool... had to use my 30 watter. I
will look for some 62/36/2 solder at Rat Shack today
5) The "Manhatten style" really does look like little "buildings"!
BTW, that reminds me-how precious and frail is this thing we call peace.
Let's all pray for those who gave their lives in New York and Washington,
and pray that our freedoms and rights are not a casualty of these terrible
attacks.
God Bless
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspGroup,
The parts were ordered Tues., early. I had them shipped 2nd day air.
Now they're sitting at the hub waiting for the airplanes to start flying
again so the ETA is unknown at this time. I'll advise when they arrive.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Gang,
First of all, my heartfelt thoughts and prayers are with anyone on this
list who has been directly or indirectly affected by yesterdays attacks
on our great nation. I am personally in a state of disbelief at the
magnitude of these attacks. As a veteran and patriot I take these
attacks personally.
The sad fact is at this point I find my inspiration to work on this
project to be waning in light of the insurmountable problems and grief
that so many of my fellow Americans are dealing with. The stories I've
read and images on TV will forever alter my view of the world.
However; I've decided to continue on with this radio and hope the rest
of the folks here who are still up to it will as well. Here is an update
on the parts I'm working on;
MV1662's - these replace the MV2115 - in stock
MVAM109 - due in
2N7000 FET for mute circuit - donated - in stock
Audio transformer (T10) - donated - in stock
L2, L3, L4, L8 - in stock
1N4007 (D6) - donated - not arrived
D5, D21 and D? - donated - in stock
Heat sinks - in stock
Female BNC - donated and in stock
I am waiting for a shipment of donated(!) T50-7's and will then begin
building kits.
I don't have a price for these parts yet. As a good amount of them were
donated the cost will be fairly low. Good news for VE's on the list is
that I can accept CAN $'s and ship direct from Canada. Since the cost
will be less then $15 CAN it is duty free (I checked this with a friend
who works at Canadian customs).
Other folks are handling buys on POTS, Caps and other various parts -
please look for their posts for more information. Jim, K8IQY is handling
crystals.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHello gang,
I received my 2N2/40 Book this week.....It is great! If you haven't ordered one yet, you need to. I was just going through the book and making the corrections suggested by Paul NA5N (PEN AND INK CHANGES TO THE 2N2/40 BOOK OR WINTER 1998 QRPp). I then started going through the Article Corrections suggested on K8IQY's 2N2 page (Winter QRPp 2N2/40 Article Corrections - V1.5). There are some corrections listed on K8IQY's page that are not included in the corrections listed by NA5N. ie...p.25 the missing pad and parts between the emiter of Q6 and the output, pin4, of T7; p35 there is a pad and part missing. Another pad is needed to which resistor R44 is connected. My question is this: Do I need to make the additional corrections listed on K8IQY's page that are not listed on the corrections listed by NA5N? Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks in advance for the assistance
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
Rock Hill, South Carolina
|
380|287|2001-09-14 08:48:22|John Wagner|PARTS UPDATE|Gang,
First of all, my heartfelt thoughts and prayers are with anyone on this
list who has been directly or indirectly affected by yesterdays attacks
on our great nation. I am personally in a state of disbelief at the
magnitude of these attacks. As a veteran and patriot I take these
attacks personally.
The sad fact is at this point I find my inspiration to work on this
project to be waning in light of the insurmountable problems and grief
that so many of my fellow Americans are dealing with. The stories I've
read and images on TV will forever alter my view of the world.
However; I've decided to continue on with this radio and hope the rest
of the folks here who are still up to it will as well. Here is an update
on the parts I'm working on;
MV1662's - these replace the MV2115 - in stock
MVAM109 - due in
2N7000 FET for mute circuit - donated - in stock
Audio transformer (T10) - donated - in stock
L2, L3, L4, L8 - in stock
1N4007 (D6) - donated - not arrived
D5, D21 and D? - donated - in stock
Heat sinks - in stock
Female BNC - donated and in stock
I am waiting for a shipment of donated(!) T50-7's and will then begin
building kits.
I don't have a price for these parts yet. As a good amount of them were
donated the cost will be fairly low. Good news for VE's on the list is
that I can accept CAN $'s and ship direct from Canada. Since the cost
will be less then $15 CAN it is duty free (I checked this with a friend
who works at Canadian customs).
Other folks are handling buys on POTS, Caps and other various parts -
please look for their posts for more information. Jim, K8IQY is handling
crystals.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThank you John, Im a veteran and patriot also. Today my grown children
understand my
love for America and why Ive flown the flag for years at my home.
Yes Im continuing the project and awaiting parts.
At 08:25 AM 9/13/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>First of all, my heartfelt thoughts and prayers are with anyone on this
>list who has been directly or indirectly affected by yesterdays attacks
>on our great nation. I am personally in a state of disbelief at the
>magnitude of these attacks. As a veteran and patriot I take these
>attacks personally.
>
>The sad fact is at this point I find my inspiration to work on this
>project to be waning in light of the insurmountable problems and grief
>that so many of my fellow Americans are dealing with. The stories I've
>read and images on TV will forever alter my view of the world.
Gentlemen and ladies:
I have had 35 responses from those of you who expressed interest in the group
pots buy......I will be placing the order today.....let me know if you are
interested and you have not previously contacted me.
John and all others who have posted regarding this difficult time, thank you
for your spirit....it will be very therapeutic to get started on this
project. We have bad weather forecast all weekend long in Florida, so I will
be diligently at work on the Tx/Rx switching section.
73,
Ed
N4EJG
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
383|383|2001-09-14 11:18:51|Kenneth Hoglund|Caps kits Shipping|Just an update:
Several payment/label combinations have been received and I am getting
the kits into the mail. I'll confirm to each person that the kit has
been sent, but with the current disruptions in air traffic, delays in
delivery are likely.
73
Ken Hoglund KG4FGC
|
384|379|2001-09-14 15:21:06|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N2/40 Book Corrections|At 01:58 AM 9/14/01 +0000, Pat KF4LMZ wrote:
>Hello gang,
>
>I received my 2N2/40 Book this week.....It is great! If you haven't
>ordered one yet, you need to. I was just going through the book and
>making the corrections suggested by Paul NA5N (PEN AND INK CHANGES TO THE
>2N2/40 BOOK OR WINTER 1998 QRPp). I then started going through the
>Article Corrections suggested on K8IQY's 2N2 page (Winter QRPp 2N2/40
>Article Corrections - V1.5). There are some corrections listed on K8IQY's
>page that are not included in the corrections listed by NA5N. ie...p.25
>the missing pad and parts between the emiter of Q6 and the output, pin4,
>of T7; p35 there is a pad and part missing. Another pad is needed to
>which resistor R44 is connected. My question is this: Do I need to make
>the additional corrections listed on K8IQY's page that are not listed on
>the corrections listed by NA5N?
Yes, all of those changes need to be made to make the rig work correctly.
In fact, the two that you mentioned are quite critical.
> Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks in advance for the assistance
You are most welcome......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Here in the DC area we wake up each morning to the sound of US
warplanes patrolling overhead.
My wife works near Capitol Hill. She called me Tuesday morning to
tell me they were moving her and her coworkers to the center of their
building -- another plane was coming. I'm glad those guys tried to
take back that plane over PA -- sorry they didn't make it home.
My sister lives and works in Manhattan -- she's OK.
What kind of a world will my 7-year old daughter live in -- will she
be safe?
Building these rigs takes my mind off this stuff.
Jake -- N4UY
USMA - Class of '70
Vienna, VA
Wash DC suburbs
|
386|385|2001-09-14 20:33:44|Delbert Long|Re: Parts Update (why I want to keep building)|The other night I couldn't sleep - was up until 1:30 AM putting my Norcal
Tuna Tin kit (from Ft. Smith QRP) together. Smoke tested it last night and
it worked fine. Checked the freq. with the ScQRP S.S. and got 7.041.156
mHz. Close enough for me. I sure am glad to be associated with such a fine
group of people. I look forward to gluing some pads down and starting the
2N2 rig ASAP...living in a condo unit I wouldn't know what to do for an
antenna without help from the folks on QRP-L.
It looks to me like the world is getting together to make it a lot safer for
all our 7 year olds. I have a 2 1/2 year old granddaughter, and I feel a
lot better for her, too. And my 25 year old daughter. And 51 year old me,
for that matter.
Enough rambling...back to work.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
Grid Square DM13av
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
It ain't over 'till it's over. - Yogi Berra
God Bless Us, Everyone. - Tiny Tim
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspGang,
I finally got the time to draw up the schematic of the new receive
r.f. amplifier that I prototyped and installed in my 2N2/40 rig.
It is a low noise, Norton feedback design, and works really well.
I've also modeled and prototyped a new post-mixer amplifier, to
drive either the VBW or fixed BW filter.
Both of these schematic fragments are now on the Yahoo 2N2-40
web site, along with a picture showing the new r.f. amplifier,
and the LED voltage regulator board for the VBW. You can't see
the components of the new post-mixer amplifier, but they are
indeed installed in the rig also, but too far down in the maze
of circuitry for the camera to image them.
I'm recommending you use these new pieced of circuitry as you
build your rig. Eventually, the original 2N2/40 schematics will
be replaced with a set of 2N2/40+ schematics showing this
circuitry and all of the other changes (2N7000 mute and RIT)
that have been made along the way.
72 and happy building,
Jim, K8IQY
PS, for those who are waiting for a filter kit of some kind,
I now have all of the parts except the pots for the VBW kits.
I expect to start shipping complete kits of each type in the
middle of next week. If you requested a filter via email, but
have not sent money, now would be a good time! :-)
|
388|387|2001-09-14 21:41:52|Brian Murrey|Re: Revised Rx Input RF and Post-Mixer Amplifiers|How much and where to?
Thanks Jim
73 de KB9BVN
> PS, for those who are waiting for a filter kit of some kind,
> I now have all of the parts except the pots for the VBW kits.
> I expect to start shipping complete kits of each type in the
> middle of next week. If you requested a filter via email, but
> have not sent money, now would be a good time! :-)
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Brian Murrey"
wrote:
> How much and where to?
He listed a price in one of the previous messages. I think it was
message #322 Crystal filter pricing
KevinGang, This is a repost of an earlier message, as several
have asked again about the crystal filter kit pricing.
I've made some minor changes to the kit contents as more
development data became available, and a change in
crystal suppliers became necessary.
I've just gone through all of the emails I got regarding
the availability of the crystal filters for the 2N2/40
project. So far, 38 of the variable bandwidth and 4 of the
fixed bandwidth filters have been requested. Therefore, I
am proceeding with the project and am planning on kitting
50 of the variable bandwidth units, and 10 of the the
fixed bandwidth units. Here are the prices:
Variable bandwidth - $9.00 US which includes domestic shipping.
Fixed bandwidth - $10.00 US which includes domestic shipping.
Shipping to Canada is only $1.00 US additional.
Shipping to other foreign countries is $5.00 US additional. If
it costs me more than that, I'll eat the difference.
I'll accept either a personal check, or a money order in US funds.
If a money order in US funds presents a hardship, email me and
we will work out some other arrangement. I've taken foreign
currency before and will spend it eventually in my travels someday. :-)
Here is what you get in each type filter package.
3 pole, variable bandwidth, 250-750 Hz
*5 crystals, 3 of which will be matched to within a 15 Hz spread.
The other 2 crystals are for the Rx and Tx local oscillators
*2 matched MV1662 varicap diodes
*2 100K resistors
*2 180pF NPO ceramic capacitors
*2 2.0 volt LEDs
*1 1.8K resistor
*1 10K miniature potentiometer
4 pole, fixed bandwidth, 500 Hz
*6 crystals, 4 of which will be matched to within a 20 Hz spread.
The other 2 crystals are for the Rx and Tx local oscillators
*2 27pF NPO ceramic capacitors (were 47pF caps)
*2 180pF NPO ceramic capacitors (were 150pF caps)
*3 270pF NPO ceramic capacitors (were 220pF caps)
*2 1.8uH molded inductors (were 4.7uH inductors)
*4 330uH molded inductors
If you have not looked at the design of these filters, they are posted
on the Yahoo 2N2-40 group site. There is an inductor change on the
fixed filter from 270uH to 330uH. I'll post the reason why later,
for those who are interested.
If you feel the pricing is higher than you anticipated and want
to back out, that's fine, but please let me know via email, so
that your filter can go to someone else. Also, a few folks
asked for more than one filter. I've included those requests
in my count. If you want additional filter kits, please let
me know now, so that I can up the parts orders.
I have but one final request. Please don't buy one of these kits
and resell it for more than you paid for it, just to make a few
bucks. I'm doing this at cost and will be using a lot of my time.
I don't want someone profiting from my efforts. Also, please don't
order a kit if you really are not going to use it in a 2N2/40, thus
preventing someone else from getting a kit. If you're found out,
you'll be quite unpopular! :-)
Send your orders to: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
PO Box 108
Fenton, MI 48430
In your order, tell me how many of each kind of filter you want.
Hopefully it will match your earlier email. Also, include a
return address label, so that your filter reaches the corrrect
address. I will not cash your check or MO until your filter
kit(s) ship.
72 and GL to all on your upcoming 2N2/40 builds,
Jim, K8IQY
PS, I've received 27 envelopes with orders to date, 9/14/2001.
Only one of the envelopes has been opened, that was from JO1OUY.
No checks or MO have been cashed, and won't be until each kit is
shipped. I'll email each person when their order ships.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Gang, I too find that working on this is theraputic as well...
Anyway, a few questions:
RF Amp
1. Ferrite bead - Is this a specific mix or a "generic" i.e. junque box bead?
2. L1 - is this a moulded inductor or a torrid?
3. Q1 - Still a 2N2222?
4. Also, is the feature of the +10/+20 switchable gain now moot?
Mixer Amp
1. L1, L2 - Same ? as above, moulded or torrid?
I see the rationale behind the revision in the mixer amp, but the RF amp revision is still a bit puzzling (time to read the Handbook again)
Dennis
|
392|391|2001-09-15 15:13:19|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Questions on new circuts..|At 01:55 PM 9/15/01 +0000, Dennis wrote:
>Gang, I too find that working on this is theraputic as well...
>
>Anyway, a few questions:
>
>RF Amp
>1. Ferrite bead - Is this a specific mix or a "generic" i.e. junque box bead?
The one that I used is a 43 mix, and 0.125 inches long. I suspect
the amp will work fine without it, but had it so put it in.
>2. L1 - is this a moulded inductor or a torrid?
Molded inductor.
>3. Q1 - Still a 2N2222?
Amazingly yes. I did a sweep of this amp with the spectrum analyzer,
and it is flat from 1 MHz out to 70+ MHz, and 50 ohm in and out
too boot over that frequency range. Blew my mind!!
>4. Also, is the feature of the +10/+20 switchable gain now moot?
Not needed, as I found out when I built the second rig. Plenty of
gain at 10 dB. Of course, you could still use the older, switchable
design, but the front-end won't be a crunch proof as it is with this
amplifier.
>Mixer Amp
>
>1. L1, L2 - Same ? as above, moulded or torrid?
Both molded. Makes the construction easy.
>I see the rationale behind the revision in the mixer amp, but the RF amp
>revision is still a bit puzzling (time to read the Handbook again)
This latest design can handle much more signal before going into
compression, and then distortion. I ran out of drive with the
spectrum analyzer when sweeping it. Had the tracking generator
set for 0 dBm, and the output of the amp was at +11 dBm, with no
compression, nor distortion. I don't yet know how much signal
it can really handle before going into compression, but it is linear
up to 0 dBm. The older version quit at about -20 dBm if I remember
correctly.
Hope the additional technical detail helps.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Will someone please post the URL for the @2n2-40 website?
73 de Lee, KM4YY
|
394|394|2001-09-15 17:30:55|Kenneth Hoglund|URL||
395|390|2001-09-15 17:49:31|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Crystal filter pricing - repeat message|At 01:39 PM 9/15/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Will someone please post the URL for the @2n2-40 website?
>73 de Lee, KM4YY
Lee,
Here it is:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40 72,
Jim, K8IQY
A question about the makeup of this component...
I HOPE I am right about this, but is this component constructed the
following way:
Primary - 1 turn
Secondary - 11 turns with at tap at turn 4
And if so, can the single turn be a "heavier" wire, i.e. standard
hookup wire, a la the SWL SW-40+?
BTW, thanx Jim for the explanation of the circut, I think I understand
it now :-)
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
397|396|2001-09-16 09:24:18|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: T1 on Revised RF Amp|At 10:18 AM 9/16/01 +0000, Dennis - WB0WAO wrote:
>A question about the makeup of this component...
>I HOPE I am right about this, but is this component constructed the
>following way:
>
>Primary - 1 turn
That's correct.
>Secondary - 11 turns with at tap at turn 4
No, actually, 15 turns with a tap at the 4th. Maybe the
schematic doesn't show that clearly enough.
>And if so, can the single turn be a "heavier" wire, i.e. standard
>hookup wire, a la the SWL SW-40+?
Certainly. Virtually anything will work there, but you want
that single turn and its leads to be as short as possible, as
it is the feedback turn. It also has to be phased correctly,
otherwise, the amplifier will oscillate. At least I'm assuming
it will. I didn't try that experiment.
>BTW, thanx Jim for the explanation of the circut, I think I understand
> it now :-)
What may not be obvious is the gain is set by the ratio of the 4
turns to the 1 turn going to the emitter. The ratio is squared,
and then you do a power calculation so, 10*log(4^2/1^1) which is
10*log(16) for 12 dB of gain. The ratio of 11 turns to 4 turns sets
the output impedance to 50 ohms. That part is even less obvious.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Group,
The parts are in. I will be kitting this week. Here's how to order:
Send $4.00 cash, check or M.O. -and- (IMPORTANT!!!) >>>>>>A
Self-Addressed Mailing Label<<<<<<<<
to:
Steve Smith, WB6TNL
1071 Avenida Acaso, Suite 'A'
Camarillo, CA 93012-8723
(DON'T send to my QRZ.com addr. . Mail delivery there can be
unreliable.)
I prefer cash but I know that makes some people nervous. Or you can pay
by PayPal -BUT- with PayPal I gotta have $4.18 because they charge a 4.4%
service fee. Since I've ground this deal right down to the bone, I gotta
charge more to break even.
NOTE!!!!!: The self-addressed mailing label is ESSENTIAL!! Without it,
I might goof up copying your address and having the label will save me
loads of time!!
Canadian brothers: Same deal for you guys but please send funds in
either U.S. denomination currency -or- International Money Orders only,
thanks.
Delivery: Shipping will be by First Class Mail, only!
No whining!: Sorry, but I'm doing this at -zero- profit and donating my
time to benifit the group (believe me, as a small business owner I have
precious little of that to spare). I won't be responsible for
mis-delivery of your payment or my shipment by the Postal Service or if
you goof up something (like forgetting to include payment or the mailing
label). If you have a problem with any of this, please don't order,
thanks.
Wire kit: Looks like it's -not- going to include the enamel wire. I'll
make an announcement on that kit this week.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Ive got as far as the FE section, but still need a few parts.
No news in a couple of days so I hope we are still go.
I found six SRA-1H and five M6E double balanced mixers in my
parts bin but dont know their specs. Ill share with anyone who can let me know
what they are and has a use for a couple...
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
|
400|399|2001-09-18 15:28:08|John Wagner|Re: Just awaiting|Wes et al,
We are still a go. I'm still waiting for a couple more parts and what
I've gathered will be made available. I think we might have to shoot for
10/15 to get everyone kitted up, but that's understandable considering
everything that has been going on.
73 de John, N1QO
Wes Clopton wrote:
>
> Ive got as far as the FE section, but still need a few parts.
> No news in a couple of days so I hope we are still go.
> I found six SRA-1H and five M6E double balanced mixers in my
> parts bin but dont know their specs. Ill share with anyone who can let me know
> what they are and has a use for a couple...
>
> W3ERU Wes
> ARRL
> FISTS #2099
> QRPARCI 8304
> QRP-L 2179
> CW is my Mode
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGang,
For those who have ordered filter kits, here is a progress report.
I measured all of the crystals today, that's 350 of them folks,
and they are now ordered from the lowest frequency to the highest.
Doing that many is a bit of a daunting job!
All of the parts are here except for the 270pF capacitors used
in the fixed BW filters. Those are due in either Wednesday or
Thursday at the latest.
I'll start putting kits together tomorrow and get the first batch
mailed in the afternoon, hopefully. If you sent your order in
early, your filter(s) will be the first to be mailed.
72 to all,
Jim, K8IQY
|
402|399|2001-09-18 20:02:53|Kevin R. Murphy|Re: Just awaiting|--- In 2n2-40@y..., Wes Clopton
wrote:
> I found six SRA-1H and five M6E double balanced mixers in my
> parts bin but dont know their specs. Ill share with anyone who can
let me know
> what they are and has a use for a couple...
Here is a link to the spec page for the SRA-1H
http://www.minicircuits.com/cgi-bin/mixer?model=SRA-
1H&pix=a01.gif&bv=4Greetings all,
I am ready to take orders for the donated and not-so-donated parts. Here
is a list of what I'm providing and which ones are donated and by whom.
Non-free (Provided by N1QO, KD5KXF and AD6WE):
D7 (not arrived yet)
D8
D9
L2
L3
L4
L8
Heat Sink x 4 (for metal 2n2222)
Donated:
From Dennis, WB0WAO
D5
D21
Dx (for mod)
From Steve, WB6TNL
T10
1N4007 x 2
BNC Jack
From Jake, N4UY
2N7000 (for mute circuit)
From Jim, K8IQY
T50-7 (not arrived yet)
[Jim also donated parts that ended up in the Caps kit, as did Brian,
KB9BVN]
I am also providing baggies and mailers and postage. Total cost is $6 US
shipped to your door. DX orders will be a bit more for postage, please
email your specifics and I'll figure it out. Canadians only: If you can
send me something that I can easily cash (like at the Canadian post
office), then send $9.50 CAN - I'm in Canada at least 4 days a week so I
can use the money there no problem.
I'm pretty sure I could offer the package for $.50 less, but I wanted to
be certain to cover the costs. Any left over funds will be donated to
the relief and recovery effort at the World Trade Center. If you send
extra, I will add it to our donation.
IMPORTANT!!! Include a SELF-ADDRESSED sticky label with your payment!
Failure to do so will result in me muttering bad things while I scrawl
your address on the mailer with a crayon.
IMPORTANT!!! Include the email address that you used when you initially
replied to me indicating that you would be need parts. I will fill those
orders first. I presently have 46 names in that list and enough parts
for 50 orders, so it's going to be tight.
Send your check or money order for $6 US, drawn on a US Bank to:
John Wagner
25 Tree Farm Rd
Holland, VT 05830
[again; Canadians may send $9.50 CAN as long as it's something I can
easily cash at the Canadian PO]
Please do not reply to the list regarding this message unless your reply
pertains to the list. Email me directly at:
john@wagner-usa.net if
needed.
Thanks gang - looking forward to moving forward and melting some solder.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGang,
I originally sent this just to John to see if there would be
interest. He responded affirmatively and suggested I announce it to
the group. So here goes.
The 2n2-40 group is working very well. I was wondering if there
would also be a next project that we could all work on together. One
that lends itself well to stage construction and group buys is "A
Spectrum Analyzer for the Radio Amateur" by Wes Hayward (WZZOI) and
Terry White (K7TAU) in August 1998 QST.
Link here:(.pdf files)
Part One
http://www.gbonline.com/~multiplx/wireless/pdf/9808035.pdf Part Two
http://www.gbonline.com/~multiplx/wireless/pdf/9809037.pdf Five boards and the parts for them are available at the Kanga US
(
http://www.bright.net/~kanga/kanga/w7zoi_sa.htm) website. But not
all the parts are available through them. Which would necessitate
group buys. Building it together, would help people along, as the
2n2-40 group has helped people that would not have otherwise gone
ahead with the project.
Just wanted your opinion. I plan on making this my winter project,
God willing and the creek don't rise.
Kevin
Hi Kevin and group
Have just looked at the Kanga site re. the Spectrum Analyzer.
My first thought was that it looks too difficult (say 9/10 if the 2n2-
40 is 5/10 on the difficulty scale).
But after seeing the pictures of completed Analizers (I can't even
spell it, let alone build one) I must say that I can't resist having
a box on my desk with so many knobs, switches and that squiggly
display thingy.
Main problem for me is time, the 2n2-40 IS my Autumn/Winter project.
In principle, Kevin, count me in. But if the project gets off the
ground I may be lagging behind a little.
73 Steve
G4GXL
|
406|406|2001-09-20 10:21:04|Wes Clopton|Thanks|Ok John, Its been a long month, one Ill
never forget. Being retired from the Navy and I
came from a military family and raised in the
WW2 time, I hoped my children (2 girls and a son)
(OH and 9 grandchildren so far) would never have
to feel the sorrow and pain a war will bring.
But now we will stand up and be strong again.
We will show the misguided terrorist and
spreaders of Hate, their game is over.
Mean while Im continuing on with our
project, the 2N2-40 transceiver. Its a radio Ive
wanted to build since Jim presented the first
one to Norcal...Our group got me back into it.
It is a real challenges for me sense I was
struck with APD (Advanced Parkenson Deises).
Boy, those toirds are fun to wind with a eartquake
going on at the same time. HiHi
I may not finish on time, and mine wont be very
neat, but Im enjoying the fun.....
The money for parts is in the mail and
Thank you for all the hard work you have done..
W. W. Clopton -W3ERU (Wes)
GOD BLESS AMERICA
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
407|403|2001-09-20 13:07:07|Stephen M Smith|Re: Parts ordering...|John,
I now understand the confusion with the 1N4007 diodes. They were
supposed to be for D21 but apparently Jim changed the spec. from a 1N4001
to a 1N4744. So the 1N4007s are redundant. Spare parts!
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.At 09:49 AM 9/20/01 -0700, you wrote:
>John,
>
>I now understand the confusion with the 1N4007 diodes. They were
>supposed to be for D21 but apparently Jim changed the spec. from a 1N4001
>to a 1N4744. So the 1N4007s are redundant. Spare parts!
>
>73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
> WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
> "Snort Rosin"
Steve,
Was not I who changed D21 from a 1N4007 to a 1N4744. D21 has
always been a 15 volt Zener. I don't know where the 1N4007
came from. 1N4007s make good PIN diodes for antenna switching
etc.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hmmm. Guess I'm all wet. All of my documentation is at home and I'm at
the office. It's just bugging me now wondering where I came up with
that! Must have been a flashback from something I took in the '60s :-).
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
On Thu, 20 Sep 2001 14:32:47 -0400 "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
<
jokortge@prodigy.net> writes:
> At 09:49 AM 9/20/01 -0700, you wrote:
> >John,
> >
> >I now understand the confusion with the 1N4007 diodes. They were
> >supposed to be for D21 but apparently Jim changed the spec. from a
> 1N4001
> >to a 1N4744. So the 1N4007s are redundant. Spare parts!
> >
> >73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
> > WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
> > "Snort Rosin"
>
> Steve,
>
> Was not I who changed D21 from a 1N4007 to a 1N4744. D21 has
> always been a 15 volt Zener. I don't know where the 1N4007
> came from. 1N4007s make good PIN diodes for antenna switching
> etc.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.Gang,
All of the filter kits which were ordered and for which I received
money have either shipped, or will tomorrow, 9/21/2001. I have
10 VBW kits pending, folks who requested one, but who have not
sent a check or MO, and 1 FBW kit of the same status.
Everyone got sent an email when their kit was or will be shipped.
If you think you ordered one, but didn't get an email, and have
sent money, send me another email so we can straighten things out.
So far, I've kitted and mailed 38 VBW kits, and 13 FBW kits. That
big pile of 350 crystals is kinda puny now! :-) If everyone who
requested a kit comes through with their money, there will only be
2 VBW kits left, and 1 FBW kit, so if you wanted either type, now
is the time to act. When they are all gone, I'm done with this
phase of the project.
IMPORTANT: If you sent me an email earlier reserving a filter kit,
and you have changed your mind are don't want it, please let me know
so it can become available for another builder. I'll wait another
week for those folks who reserved a kit to send in their money,
otherwise, their kit is up-for-grabs.
Many thanks to all for supporting this 2N2/40 group build effort.
I fervently hope all of those filter kits I put together don't end
up on the shelf somewhere, never to be used. I put too much time
(several days actually) into this to have that happen.
72,
Jim, K8IQY (alias, the filter guy!) :-)
|
411|411|2001-09-20 23:51:21|sigcom@juno.com|Re: Diode cornfuzion and kit update.|OK, the haze has cleared (whoa dude, what a trip...).
After arriving home and listening to the President's address, I dug out
my 2N2 documentation.
The 1N4007s I sent to John are for D6 which is shown in the orignal
article's parts list as a 1N4001 and on the schematic as a 1N4004 (also
same on Jim's web site) so I suppose that a 1N4007 oughta work OK there
(right, Jim?).
Whew. I thouhgt for a moment there I'd been hallucinating :-).
On the transistor kit scene: Transistors are counted and bagged. Diode
matching is going slower than I expected, only because I want to make
absolutely certain I'm getting accurate results which I am, but it takes
each diode a while to "settle down" during measurement. However, I
expect to be finished by some time Saturday and shipping Mon. for those
of you who have sent payment. Thanks for your patience.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.The updated link for part 1 is:
http://www.qsl.net/n9zia/wireless/pdf/9808035.pdf and for part 2 is:
http://www.qsl.net/n9zia/wireless/pdf/9809037.pdf These files are also on the ARRL site for members.
Bill
--- "Kevin R. Murphy" <
adverseyaw@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> Gang,
> I originally sent this just to John to see if there
> would be
> interest. He responded affirmatively and suggested
> I announce it to
> the group. So here goes.
> The 2n2-40 group is working very well. I was
> wondering if there
> would also be a next project that we could all work
> on together. One
> that lends itself well to stage construction and
> group buys is "A
> Spectrum Analyzer for the Radio Amateur" by Wes
> Hayward (WZZOI) and
> Terry White (K7TAU) in August 1998 QST.
> Link here:(.pdf files)
>
> Part One
> http://www.gbonline.com/~multiplx/wireless/pdf/9808035.pdf
> Part Two
> http://www.gbonline.com/~multiplx/wireless/pdf/9809037.pdf
>
> Five boards and the parts for them are available at
> the Kanga US
> (http://www.bright.net/~kanga/kanga/w7zoi_sa.htm)
> website. But not
> all the parts are available through them. Which
> would necessitate
> group buys. Building it together, would help people
> along, as the
> 2n2-40 group has helped people that would not have
> otherwise gone
> ahead with the project.
> Just wanted your opinion. I plan on making this my
> winter project,
> God willing and the creek don't rise.
> Kevin
>
>
---------------------------------
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information inYahoo! News.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 08:44 PM 9/20/01 -0700, you wrote:
>OK, the haze has cleared (whoa dude, what a trip...).
>
>After arriving home and listening to the President's address, I dug out
>my 2N2 documentation.
>
>The 1N4007s I sent to John are for D6 which is shown in the orignal
>article's parts list as a 1N4001 and on the schematic as a 1N4004 (also
>same on Jim's web site) so I suppose that a 1N4007 oughta work OK there
>(right, Jim?).
Steve,
That's correct. D6 can be any 1N40XX device. Doesn't matter,
it's being used as a 0.65 volt reference device, so not critical.
"Party on dude........" :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Kevin..sounds like a great winter time project. Count me in!!!
Dah-Dit-Dah.... 72's/73's es oo's, Mikey...WB8ICN...SOC #456
Proud Piggie of Multi-Pig S/N #8..Homebrew QRP CW transceiver
K2 S/N 383, FISTS #7065, QRP ARCI #9982, MI QRP #1442, FPQRP #68
Flying Pigs QRP Net on Wed and Sundays on 7047.5KHz at 2100 EST
QCWA Chapter 10, Michigan - Net meets on Sundays, 3903 MHz at 0800 EST
http://www.qsl.net/wb8icn Backup
e-mail-wb8icn@arrl.net &
wb8icn@aol.com -----Original Message-----
From: Kevin R. Murphy <
adverseyaw@bigfoot.com>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, September 20, 2001 2:24 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Next Project?
>Gang,
>I originally sent this just to John to see if there would be
>interest. He responded affirmatively and suggested I announce it to
>the group. So here goes.
>The 2n2-40 group is working very well. I was wondering if there
>would also be a next project that we could all work on together. One
>that lends itself well to stage construction and group buys is "A
>Spectrum Analyzer for the Radio Amateur" by Wes Hayward (WZZOI) and
>Terry White (K7TAU) in August 1998 QST.
>Link here:(.pdf files)
>
>Part One http://www.gbonline.com/~multiplx/wireless/pdf/9808035.pdf
>Part Two http://www.gbonline.com/~multiplx/wireless/pdf/9809037.pdf
>
>Five boards and the parts for them are available at the Kanga US
>(http://www.bright.net/~kanga/kanga/w7zoi_sa.htm) website. But not
>all the parts are available through them. Which would necessitate
>group buys. Building it together, would help people along, as the
>2n2-40 group has helped people that would not have otherwise gone
>ahead with the project.
>Just wanted your opinion. I plan on making this my winter project,
>God willing and the creek don't rise.
>Kevin
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hello gang,
I'm in the process of trying to round up the rest of my parts. There
are a couple that I am having trouble locating. The first is R15 (27
ohm). The second is Ct(select to tune primary @750 Hz) .082uF. I
can't figure out what Ct is. Any suggestions where I can locate
these 2 parts? Also, could someone please explain the purpose of
Ct? Thanks in advance for the assistance.
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
|
416|410|2001-09-23 20:45:26|Edward A. Stagl|Re: 2N2/40 Filter Kits|Jim,
Sent check for $9.00 on 8-31-01. No e-mail yet.
Please check. Thanks and
72/73,
Ed Stagl
edstagl@att.net ----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 19:12 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2/40 Filter Kits
> Gang,
>
> All of the filter kits which were ordered and for which I received
> money have either shipped, or will tomorrow, 9/21/2001. I have
> 10 VBW kits pending, folks who requested one, but who have not
> sent a check or MO, and 1 FBW kit of the same status.
>
> Everyone got sent an email when their kit was or will be shipped.
> If you think you ordered one, but didn't get an email, and have
> sent money, send me another email so we can straighten things out.
>
> So far, I've kitted and mailed 38 VBW kits, and 13 FBW kits. That
> big pile of 350 crystals is kinda puny now! :-) If everyone who
> requested a kit comes through with their money, there will only be
> 2 VBW kits left, and 1 FBW kit, so if you wanted either type, now
> is the time to act. When they are all gone, I'm done with this
> phase of the project.
>
> IMPORTANT: If you sent me an email earlier reserving a filter kit,
> and you have changed your mind are don't want it, please let me know
> so it can become available for another builder. I'll wait another
> week for those folks who reserved a kit to send in their money,
> otherwise, their kit is up-for-grabs.
>
> Many thanks to all for supporting this 2N2/40 group build effort.
> I fervently hope all of those filter kits I put together don't end
> up on the shelf somewhere, never to be used. I put too much time
> (several days actually) into this to have that happen.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY (alias, the filter guy!) :-)
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 04:09 PM 9/23/01 +0000, Pat KF4LMZ wrote:
>Hello gang,
>
>I'm in the process of trying to round up the rest of my parts. There
>are a couple that I am having trouble locating. The first is R15 (27
>ohm).
That ought to be available from Mouser, Radio Shack, etc. It's
a standard value in 1/4 watt size.
> The second is Ct(select to tune primary @750 Hz) .082uF. I
>can't figure out what Ct is.
Ct is the capacitor needed to resonate the primary inductance
of the output transformer to approximately 750 Hz. In the original,
transformer T10 came from Jameco, but those transformers are no longer
available. For that rig, Ct had a value of 0.082uF, and was a
polyester film capacitor. The primary inductance of the transformer
you use for T10, will dictate the value of the capacitor needed for
Ct in your rig. The rig will work fine without the primary of T10
being resonated, so you can leave it out if you desire.
> Any suggestions where I can locate
>these 2 parts?
Hopefully I did that.....
> Also, could someone please explain the purpose of
>Ct?
I covered that too......
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
At 08:44 PM 9/23/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Sent check for $9.00 on 8-31-01. No e-mail yet.
>Please check. Thanks and
>
>72/73,
>
>Ed Stagl edstagl@att.net
Ed,
Your filter kit was shipped on 9/19/2001, in the first batch that
went out. However, I didn't have your email address, so couldn't
inform you of that fact. Your filter should arrive sometime
early this week.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
YES! And beautifully packaged! Thanks for the warning label. I was
just about to rip open the packet and start fingering the goodies
when the label warned about the matched parts...I'll wait till I'm
ready to use them.
Sorry for the false alarm and
72/73,
Ed Stagl N2GVS
edstagl@att.net > Ed,
>
> Your filter kit was shipped on 9/19/2001, in the first batch that
> went out. However, I didn't have your email address, so couldn't
> inform you of that fact. Your filter should arrive sometime
> early this week.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
If you haven't received a caps kit from me, nor an email telling you a
caps kit is on the way, then you don't need to read the following.
Many thanks to Pat KF4LMZ who got his cap kit, opened it up and sorted
the contents, then asked some basic questions. His questions led me to
discover some things were not so clear in the materials I provided, and
that a small mistake had been made. This message is to clarify a few
items, and to make an offer to help anyone who desires it with a
shortage on a common value.
First, with the caps kit are two lists. Take the thinner one (entitled
"Contents of Bags") and go to the list for "Poly/Silver-Mica (6
pieces)". There are actually 7 pieces in this bag, and in the list,
there should be noted "2 330pF poly" in place of the "1 330pF poly" on
your list.
Now consult the second list, entitled "2N2-40 Capacitor Kit". Under C12a
it should read "330pF poly." Jim K8IQY had specd a 300pF, but somehow I
confused this one and C15 and obtained 2 330pF caps for the kits. I've
checked with Jim, and he doesn't think the difference is significant, so
we'll build with 330pF.
Now, go to C63, listed as "820pF silver-mica". Jim had sent a note out
to the group very early on that the voltages in the rig were not going
to make a significant difference between polys and silver-micas. I could
not find silver-micas in this value, so the 820pF supplied in the kit is
a poly, and this should be corrected on this sheet.
Last is the mistake. When I first ran all the numbers, I noticed that
Jim's "Improved Rx Mute Circuit" called for C29 to be a .22mF cap in
place of an electrolytic, but that C35 was a 1mF electrolytic in place
of a .22mF cap. Hence, one still had enough .22mF caps for the build.
What I overlooked was the additional substitution of C38 with a .22mF.
So, the caps kit you have received/are receiving has 19 .22mF caps, one
less than the quantity you will need if you are building in the improved
Rx mute modification. I have a supply of additional .22mF caps, and can
provide you with one, if you wish it. Please send me an email indicating
you want the additional cap, and I'll get one in the mail to you ASAP.
I apologize for these confusions and the miscount. Seems no matter how
many times one goes over a circuit and its specs, there are ample
opportunities for errors. I'm including at the end of this message a
list of all those folks (US and Canadian) to whom I have sent out a caps
kit to date and who will want to make these clarifications. I am
contacting all non-North American builders directly to see if they need
the extra .22mF caps.
Thanks to all for your comments and the promptness of your payments for
the kits. There are several folks who came in after the original
purchase who need kits, and there are a few who reserved a kit
originally but have not indicated if they actually want to purchase a
kit. Let me know one way or the other, so that I can see if we can meet
these additional needs.
73
Ken KG4FGC
Sent Kits:
Gody AC6UV
Dan AD6JY
Dick K2JJQ
Kaye K8GZ
Ed KB2NTO
Brian KB9BN
Tom KC0GXX
James KC5HAC
Pat KF4LMZ
Lee KM4YY
Tom N0DSP
Les N0PPF
John N1QO
Ed N2GVS
Jake N4UY
Ric N5NHI
Cam N6GA
Jim VA3KV
Wes W3ERU
Paul WA0RSE
Dennis WB0WAO
Mikey WB8ICN
Kent Mitchell
|
421|420|2001-09-25 09:54:16|Richard Brummer, K2JQ|Re: Caps Clarifications and Mistake|My cap kit arrived yesterday -- 9 days dor-to-door -- a DEFINITE slowdown in
the US Mail resulting from 11Sep.
Dick K2JQ
-----Original Message-----
From: Kenneth Hoglund <
hoglund@wfu.edu>
To:
2N2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2N2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 1:38 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Caps Clarifications and Mistake
>If you haven't received a caps kit from me, nor an email telling you a
>caps kit is on the way, then you don't need to read the following.
Well Dick--
I also heard from someone in the midwest that their's arrived in 3 days time.
Must be certain routes are disrupted while others are more or less normal.
Anyway, do you need another .22mF cap? I have a number to spare and would be
glad to mail one to you.
73 and thanks for letting me know it got to you--
Ken
"Richard Brummer, K2JQ" wrote:
> My cap kit arrived yesterday -- 9 days dor-to-door -- a DEFINITE slowdown in
> the US Mail resulting from 11Sep.
>
> Dick K2JQ
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kenneth Hoglund <hoglund@wfu.edu>
> To: 2N2-40@yahoogroups.com <2N2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 1:38 AM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Caps Clarifications and Mistake
>
> >If you haven't received a caps kit from me, nor an email telling you a
> >caps kit is on the way, then you don't need to read the following.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Gang,
I started a group for the Spectrum Analyzer. Here is the URL
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SA4Hams There is a parts list in Excel format in the files section.
It is also in text format for those without MS Excel.
Thanks
Kevin, KC8SFJ <- My new callsign :)
Gang,
Yesterday the mailman brought me Jim, K8IQY's donation of 50 T50-7
toroids. At lunch I'm heading over to the office supply store to pick up
my order of mailers and baggies. Still waiting on the MVAM109's but
hoping for them soon.
I will kit the parts ASAP afterwards and start mailing. To date I've
received about 30 orders.
I also received the filter kit from Jim - looking forward to getting
started!!!
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJohn, my computer is dead at home what is your address? Please send to
mike.malone@nationwide-recovery.com ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2001 7:32 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] kits almost a kitting
> Gang,
>
> Yesterday the mailman brought me Jim, K8IQY's donation of 50 T50-7
> toroids. At lunch I'm heading over to the office supply store to pick up
> my order of mailers and baggies. Still waiting on the MVAM109's but
> hoping for them soon.
>
> I will kit the parts ASAP afterwards and start mailing. To date I've
> received about 30 orders.
>
> I also received the filter kit from Jim - looking forward to getting
> started!!!
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
At 06:51 AM 8/22/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim, put me down for the new filter kit. After this is all said and done, it
>sounds like, you could be re-doing the QRPp article. Think about it. It's a
>good thing you are retired.
>
>72
>
>Les Bearl, N0PPF
Les,
I'm holding a VBW filter kit for you. Please let me know if
you are going to send me an order for it, otherwise, I'll make
it available to another member of the Yahoo 2N2-40 group.
72 and thanks,
Jim, K8IQY
Yes. I forgot. Been busy at work. Over time to do product tests now layoffs
in my department. Cost was how much again.
Les
|
428|428|2001-09-26 23:45:25|camqrp@cyberg8t.com|100 uH inductors|Group -
A couple of Jim's latest revisions, the Revised Mixer Amp and the
Revised Rx Input RF Amp, call for 100uH inductors. A total of three,
to be exact. Jim sez he used little molded units.
I don't see where these items have been included in any of the group
parts buys, but I could have missed them. (Let me know if I really am
going blind...)
I"m going to order some from Mouser. If any of you would like me to
get some for you, let me know. A purchase of 100+ units drops the
price all the way from 36 cents each to 27 cents each!
And if there are any other parts which have been overlooked in all
the procurement frenzy, let me know. I could make this a clean-up
parts buy.
--Cam N6GA
|
429|428|2001-09-27 08:10:23|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 100 uH inductors|At 03:45 AM 9/27/01 +0000, Cam N6GA, wrote:
>Group -
>
>A couple of Jim's latest revisions, the Revised Mixer Amp and the
>Revised Rx Input RF Amp, call for 100uH inductors. A total of three,
>to be exact. Jim sez he used little molded units.
Yes, Mouser part number 434-22-101.
>I don't see where these items have been included in any of the group
>parts buys, but I could have missed them. (Let me know if I really am
>going blind...)
The group buys were working off the original parts list. These
inductors weren't on that, since the circuitry is new.
>I"m going to order some from Mouser. If any of you would like me to
>get some for you, let me know. A purchase of 100+ units drops the
>price all the way from 36 cents each to 27 cents each!
>
>And if there are any other parts which have been overlooked in all
>the procurement frenzy, let me know. I could make this a clean-up
>parts buy.
Thanks for offering this service Cam.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi group
Apologies if this has been mentioned before and I missed it -
WA6MER has a very useful site showing his various QRP rigs which includes the 2n2-40.
The site includes a table of voltages of various point around the circuit that may be useful for debugging.
The URL is //home.att.net/~mschettler/
73 Steve G4GXL
|
431|428|2001-09-27 08:47:40|John Wagner|Re: 100 uH inductors|About the "clean up buy" - I think it's going to be necasary. If you can
stand it Cam, please wait for a couple of weeks and let us all regroup
and take inventory. I suspect there will be a few small items that will
be needed. Thanks for offering to do this.
73 de John, N1QO
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> At 03:45 AM 9/27/01 +0000, Cam N6GA, wrote:
> >Group -
> >
> >A couple of Jim's latest revisions, the Revised Mixer Amp and the
> >Revised Rx Input RF Amp, call for 100uH inductors. A total of three,
> >to be exact. Jim sez he used little molded units.
>
> Yes, Mouser part number 434-22-101.
>
> >I don't see where these items have been included in any of the group
> >parts buys, but I could have missed them. (Let me know if I really am
> >going blind...)
>
> The group buys were working off the original parts list. These
> inductors weren't on that, since the circuitry is new.
>
> >I"m going to order some from Mouser. If any of you would like me to
> >get some for you, let me know. A purchase of 100+ units drops the
> >price all the way from 36 cents each to 27 cents each!
> >
> >And if there are any other parts which have been overlooked in all
> >the procurement frenzy, let me know. I could make this a clean-up
> >parts buy.
>
> Thanks for offering this service Cam.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner
wrote:
> About the "clean up buy" - I think it's going to be necasary. If
you can
> stand it Cam, please wait for a couple of weeks and let us all
regroup
> and take inventory. I suspect there will be a few small items that
will
> be needed. Thanks for offering to do this.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
John -
I'll hold off making a buy until the other loose ends come to light.
Heck, another couple weeks won't make any difference. I haven't yet
warmed up the soldering iron.
- Cam N6GAGang,
So far I've received 25 orders for parts. If you haven't sent yours yet,
please do so. I want to make sure I get everyone accounted for that
previously emailed stating they want parts - it's going to be close.
Tonight I kitted up 50 sets of BNC's, T50-7 toroids and the heat sinks
and 15 sets of the other parts. One thing struck me this evening while
putting all the parts in their cups and getting ready to kit; Some folks
have really went out of their way and made large and significant
donations to this project.
I've made no secret that I've been down in the dumps since 9/11 - but
seeing the generosity laid out in front of me has lifted my spirits a
bit. The Ham spirit is alive and well. I'd like to recognize the folks
on this list who have given so much to us so we can do something we love
to do;
Jim Kortge, K8IQY. Of course it's a no-brainer to recognize Jim! Can you
guys imagine the time he put in designing this radio?! Not to mention
all the time he takes supporting it! Unreal. Jim kitted up the crystals
for this build, which I believe took him a significant amount of time.
He also sent me a bunch of caps that ended up in the cap kit and 50, yes
50, T50-7 toroids - all for free. There aren't enough "thank you's" in
the world, so one will have to do: Thank you Jim.
Steve, WB6TNL sent 100 T10's, 100 1N4007's and 50 BNC Jacks. He also did
a transistor and diode kit which a number of folks have bought.
Dennis, WB0WAO donated D5, D21, Dx (for mod).
Brian, KB9BVN donated caps for everyone and numerous people got 2n2222's
from him as well.
Del, AD6WE ordered the heat sinks that I'm sending you and is donating
his reimbursement to WTC fund that I'm sending any excess money to.
These heatsinks are really nice, by the way!
Ken, KG4FGC kitted the caps that a number of us already have in our hot
little hands.
Mike, KD5KXF provided the MVAM109's.
Jake, N4UY donated 2N7000's and some caps.
If I've missed anyone here, please email me with corrections - I think
this list is complete. A number of people who sent me checks included a
little extra - that money will end up going to the WTC fund as well -
thank you.
So gang, I'm getting excited about actually building this radio and I
hope you are too! I know most of you don't have the benefit of seeing
all the parts I've got laid in front of me - give me another week, maybe
less and I'll start mailing 'em out to you. It's getting near GO TIME
for this radio!
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi John,
I'm pretty sure I'm on your list for ordering a parts kit, but just in case
I'm not, count me in. Do you have a price for it yet?
Thanks,
Jerry McCollom
W0MC
|
435|435|2001-09-28 08:45:26|John Wagner|N1QO parts order|I'm getting a lot of email about the parts I'm supplying asking where to
send the money, what's included, etc...
It should be noted; I am not supplying a complete kit, rather a
collection of hard to find parts and also acting as a clearing house for
parts that were donated. Other folks on this list have done other kits,
some may still be available, some may not. Please use the Yahoo search
facility at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/ to search the message
archives if you need more info. You need to be a Yahoo member to do
this. There is other info on the Yahoo site that Jim has uploaded, so
you'll probably want to join regardless.
Here is a resend of my previous announcement. Please note that 46 of 50
of my parts collections are spoken for, if you didn't previously send me
an email DO NOT DELAY
in doing so! If you previously reserved a kit and haven't sent the
money, please DO NOT DELAY in sending your money - at some point I will
have sell the kit you reserved.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Greetings all,
I am ready to take orders for the donated and not-so-donated
parts. Here is a list of what I'm providing and which ones are donated
and by whom.
Non-free (Provided by N1QO, KD5KXF and AD6WE):
D7 (not arrived yet)
D8
D9
L2
L3
L4
L8
Heat Sink x 4 (for metal 2n2222)
Donated:
From Dennis, WB0WAO
D5
D21
Dx (for mod)
From Steve, WB6TNL
T10
1N4007 x 2
BNC Jack
From Jake, N4UY
2N7000 (for mute circuit)
From Jim, K8IQY
T50-7 (not arrived yet)
[Jim also donated parts that ended up in the Caps kit, as did Brian,
KB9BVN]
I am also providing baggies and mailers and postage. Total cost is $6
US shipped to your door. DX orders will be a bit more for postage,
please email your specifics and I'll figure it out. Canadians only:
Please send $6 US only - your postage will be the same as I will ship
your orders from Canada. I'm pretty sure I could offer the package for
$.50 less, but I wanted to be certain to cover the costs. Any left over
funds will be donated to the relief and recovery effort at the World
Trade Center. If you send extra, I will add it to our donation.
IMPORTANT!!! Include a SELF-ADDRESSED sticky label with your payment!
Failure to do so will result in me muttering bad things while I scrawl
your address on the mailer with a crayon.
IMPORTANT!!! Include the email address that you used when you
initially replied to me indicating that you would be need parts. I
will fill those orders first. I presently have 46 names in that list
and enough parts for 50 orders, so it's going to be tight.
Send your check or money order for $6 US, drawn on a US Bank to:
John Wagner
25 Tree Farm Rd
Holland, VT 05830
Please do not reply to the list regarding this message unless your reply
pertains to the list. Email me directly at:
john@wagner-usa.net if
needed.
Thanks gang - looking forward to moving forward and melting some
solder.
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 03:28 AM 9/28/01 +0100, Tom Dufresne wrote:
>I've started the building of the VFO, and I have a question. Caps 12a and
>12b.
>
> The QRPp article says "Polystyrene cap C12a, in conjunction with C12b (NPO
>type) provides the ..."
>
>Yet on both the QRPp article and the website article, there is only one cap
>seen, cap12.
>
>Do I need two cap 12's? Can someone clarify this for me?
I can. C12 needs to be a total of 550pF, and was shown as that
value on the original schematic I drew up. However, the rig
drifted quite badly when a single 560pF NPO was used for C12. I then split
C12 into two components, C12a being a polystyrene capacitor, with
a 150 PPM negative temperature coefficient, and the remaining, C12b
an NPO capacitor. The final pair to make the VFO stable with
temperature came out with C12a at 330pF polystyrene, and C12b a
220pF NPO ceramic. That's what is in both of my rigs, and they
both are very stable with time and temperature. So, yes, you need
to use two capacitors for C12, an "a" capacitor, and a "b" capacitor,
for a total of 550pF for the pair.
The schematic in the QRPp article shows them, but you are correct, the
illustration does not. It only shows a single capacitor named C12.
That's one of a few oversights that neither Paul nor I caught before
the article went to press. Somehow, that oversight didn't make
it into the V1..5 corrections document either. Sorry for the confusion.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
John
I'm posting to group as I don't know if direct mail is reaching you.
I emailed a few days ago to ask how you want to be paid for an order for 3 kits to the UK, but have not had a reply.
Options are PayPal, goods to the value of the kits (like GQRP / RSGB books or anything else ), or a US Dollar cheque (costs $15 just to order the cheque though !)
Have you got any other ideas ?
73 Steve G4GXL
> I'm getting a lot of email about the parts I'm supplying asking where to
> send the money, what's included, etc...
>
> It should be noted; I am not supplying a complete kit, rather a
> collection of hard to find parts and also acting as a clearing house for
> parts that were donated. Other folks on this list have done other kits,
> some may still be available, some may not. Please use the Yahoo search
> facility at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/ to search the message
> archives if you need more info. You need to be a Yahoo member to do
> this. There is other info on the Yahoo site that Jim has uploaded, so
> you'll probably want to join regardless.
>
> Here is a resend of my previous announcement. Please note that 46 of 50
> of my parts collections are spoken for, if you didn't previously send me
> an email DO NOT DELAY
> in doing so! If you previously reserved a kit and haven't sent the
> money, please DO NOT DELAY in sending your money - at some point I will
> have sell the kit you reserved.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Greetings all,
>
> I am ready to take orders for the donated and not-so-donated
> parts. Here is a list of what I'm providing and which ones are donated
> and by whom.
>
> Non-free (Provided by N1QO, KD5KXF and AD6WE):
> D7 (not arrived yet)
> D8
> D9
> L2
> L3
> L4
> L8
> Heat Sink x 4 (for metal 2n2222)
>
> Donated:
> >From Dennis, WB0WAO
> D5
> D21
> Dx (for mod)
>
> >From Steve, WB6TNL
> T10
> 1N4007 x 2
> BNC Jack
>
> >From Jake, N4UY
> 2N7000 (for mute circuit)
>
> >From Jim, K8IQY
> T50-7 (not arrived yet)
> [Jim also donated parts that ended up in the Caps kit, as did Brian,
> KB9BVN]
>
> I am also providing baggies and mailers and postage. Total cost is $6
> US shipped to your door. DX orders will be a bit more for postage,
> please email your specifics and I'll figure it out. Canadians only:
> Please send $6 US only - your postage will be the same as I will ship
> your orders from Canada. I'm pretty sure I could offer the package for
> $.50 less, but I wanted to be certain to cover the costs. Any left over
> funds will be donated to the relief and recovery effort at the World
> Trade Center. If you send extra, I will add it to our donation.
>
> IMPORTANT!!! Include a SELF-ADDRESSED sticky label with your payment!
> Failure to do so will result in me muttering bad things while I scrawl
> your address on the mailer with a crayon.
>
> IMPORTANT!!! Include the email address that you used when you
> initially replied to me indicating that you would be need parts. I
> will fill those orders first. I presently have 46 names in that list
> and enough parts for 50 orders, so it's going to be tight.
>
> Send your check or money order for $6 US, drawn on a US Bank to:
>
> John Wagner
> 25 Tree Farm Rd
> Holland, VT 05830
>
> Please do not reply to the list regarding this message unless your reply
> pertains to the list. Email me directly at: john@wagner-usa.net if
> needed.
>
> Thanks gang - looking forward to moving forward and melting some
> solder.
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Greetings from Alaska,
I am changing my email address after 6 years. :-(
You are receiving this update because at some time in the past 6 years I
felt it necessary to add you to my address book. If you have no need to
save my new address just delete the message with my apologies.
My new address will be as follows:
AL7FS@ARRL.NET This is the type of address than forwards to my active primary address.
This means if I change my primary address again, you will not have to be
bothered with it as the change will be transparent to you.
Thanks.
Jim
Jim Larsen, AL7FS, Anchorage, Alaska
(BP51cc) - 61.101 North, 149.824 West
mailto:
al7fs@arrl.net -
http://www.qsl.net/al7fs/Ken,
Cap kit rec'd, TNX.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Fellow 2N2/40 Builders,
At Saturday's TRW Swap Meet, Steve WB6TNL and I made a
most interesting find. I was able to buy some sort of
unknown test unit that contained a quantity of 10-turn
pots with chrome-color indicator dials. These were 2k ohm pots,
lower than the 20k value specified by Jim Kortge. I
emailed Jim, and he said the 2k value should work OK. Just
a few more mils of current, and probably a change in fixed
resistor R63 to a lower value. I was able to easily remove
the dials and pots from the test unit. All appear to be in
very good condition, and the action of the dial/pot was
very smooth.
Therefore I have decided to make the following limited
offer to 2N2/40 builders. I have 14 sets of 10-turn pots
and indicator dials for a price of between $5 and $6,
depending on shipping. This is for one pot and one dial.
If you are interested in just the pot or just the dial,
I'll try to work something out for about half the cost.
The 2N2/40 radio will be much more enjoyable if you use a
10-turn pot instead of a single turn one. As I am guessing
that there will be more interest in this offer than the 14
sets I have, please read the following guildelines:
1) Only one set of a 10-turn pot and dial per person. No
exceptions.
2) Important Note: The dial indicators use a small set-
screw to attach to the pot shaft. Steve had the right
tool, which he measured as a 1.5mm hex (Allen) wrench. My
0.050 inch wrench is too small. (Not surprising to find
that it takes a metric tool-- the dials are made in Japan.)
Steve has located a potential source for the wrench at
a good price, so I will look into including a wrench with
the dial.
3) Resistor R63 in the 2N2/40 is a 15k ohm across the
original 20k VFO pot. Using the 2k ohm pot will require
adjusting R63 to a smaller value. I don't know what that
will be, but I'm sure it can be determined rather easily.
A starting guess is 1.5k ohms. Also, per Jim Kortge, R5
may have to be reduced slightly.
4) OK, so how to get in on this deal? If this sounds good
to you, please send me an email expressing your interest
to my home email address:
mschettler@worldnet.att.net Please do not send a return email to the list.
I'll accept emails thru 0100Z Sunday October 7, 2001
(that's Saturday evening in the States). If there
are more than 14 interested, I'll have a drawing to
determine the winners and let you know the results next
week.
5) Payment should be made to me, Mike Schettler, via
check or money order. PLEASE PLEASE also enclose a self-addressed
mailing label for the return shipment. Don't send any money
yet!
6) As I know there are hams outside the US building 2N2/40
rigs, this offer is also open to you. I'll be happy to
work out some sort of arrangement if the payment options
become a problem for you. The shipping costs may be a
little higher, but I think it will still represent a good
deal for you.
I will try to have a photo of the pot and dial if you want to
see what they look like. Email me if interested.
Hope this is helpful to some 2N2/40 builders that are still
looking for 10-turn pots.
Mike Schettler WA6MER
Hi Mike,
Please count me in on the "Pot" deal ok?
Tnx es 73,
Gody
--- Mike Schettler <
Mike.Schettler@trw.com> wrote:
> Fellow 2N2/40 Builders,
>
> At Saturday's TRW Swap Meet, Steve WB6TNL and I made
> a
> most interesting find. I was able to buy some sort
> of
> unknown test unit that contained a quantity of
> 10-turn
> pots with chrome-color indicator dials. These were
> 2k ohm pots,
> lower than the 20k value specified by Jim Kortge. I
> emailed Jim, and he said the 2k value should work
> OK. Just
> a few more mils of current, and probably a change in
> fixed
> resistor R63 to a lower value. I was able to easily
> remove
> the dials and pots from the test unit. All appear to
> be in
> very good condition, and the action of the dial/pot
> was
> very smooth.
>
> Therefore I have decided to make the following
> limited
> offer to 2N2/40 builders. I have 14 sets of 10-turn
> pots
> and indicator dials for a price of between $5 and
> $6,
> depending on shipping. This is for one pot and one
> dial.
> If you are interested in just the pot or just the
> dial,
> I'll try to work something out for about half the
> cost.
> The 2N2/40 radio will be much more enjoyable if you
> use a
> 10-turn pot instead of a single turn one. As I am
> guessing
> that there will be more interest in this offer than
> the 14
> sets I have, please read the following guildelines:
>
> 1) Only one set of a 10-turn pot and dial per
> person. No
> exceptions.
>
> 2) Important Note: The dial indicators use a small
> set-
> screw to attach to the pot shaft. Steve had the
> right
> tool, which he measured as a 1.5mm hex (Allen)
> wrench. My
> 0.050 inch wrench is too small. (Not surprising to
> find
> that it takes a metric tool-- the dials are made in
> Japan.)
> Steve has located a potential source for the wrench
> at
> a good price, so I will look into including a wrench
> with
> the dial.
>
> 3) Resistor R63 in the 2N2/40 is a 15k ohm across
> the
> original 20k VFO pot. Using the 2k ohm pot will
> require
> adjusting R63 to a smaller value. I don't know what
> that
> will be, but I'm sure it can be determined rather
> easily.
> A starting guess is 1.5k ohms. Also, per Jim Kortge,
> R5
> may have to be reduced slightly.
>
> 4) OK, so how to get in on this deal? If this sounds
> good
> to you, please send me an email expressing your
> interest
> to my home email address:
>
> mschettler@worldnet.att.net
>
> Please do not send a return email to the list.
>
> I'll accept emails thru 0100Z Sunday October 7, 2001
>
> (that's Saturday evening in the States). If there
> are more than 14 interested, I'll have a drawing to
> determine the winners and let you know the results
> next
> week.
>
> 5) Payment should be made to me, Mike Schettler,
> via
> check or money order. PLEASE PLEASE also enclose a
> self-addressed
> mailing label for the return shipment. Don't send
> any money
> yet!
>
> 6) As I know there are hams outside the US building
> 2N2/40
> rigs, this offer is also open to you. I'll be happy
> to
> work out some sort of arrangement if the payment
> options
> become a problem for you. The shipping costs may be
> a
> little higher, but I think it will still represent a
> good
> deal for you.
>
> I will try to have a photo of the pot and dial if
> you want to
> see what they look like. Email me if interested.
>
> Hope this is helpful to some 2N2/40 builders that
> are still
> looking for 10-turn pots.
>
> Mike Schettler WA6MER
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone.
http://phone.yahoo.comFellow builders,
I placed an order with McMaster-Carr for the hex wrenches needed for
the dials. They cost 24 cents each, plus tax, S/H. So every dial will
ship with the appropriate tool.
I'm still working the costs for shipping them out, so I don't have the
final bill, but my first estimate of $5-6 should be good.
Please don't send requests for the pots/dials to the list! No need to
clutter up the list. Send directly to me at my home email.
mschettler@worldnet.att.net Thanks for your interest.
Mike Schettler WA6MER
Good evening.
I'm looking for a good source for 5x7" sheets of
PC board. Anyone have suggestions?
In addition to the big-core torroid that I think I
have covered in the parts coming, what are good
sources for the other type of core and enamel
wire? Any suggestions on type of insulation and
color in that department?
72
--Paul,
wa0rse@qsl.net--- In 2n2-40@y..., wa0rse@q... wrote:
> Good evening.
> I'm looking for a good source for 5x7" sheets of
> PC board. Anyone have suggestions?
> In addition to the big-core torroid that I think I
> have covered in the parts coming, what are good
> sources for the other type of core and enamel
> wire? Any suggestions on type of insulation and
> color in that department?
> 72
> --Paul, wa0rse@q...
Paul,
For the PC Board I would suggest All Electronics in Vanuys,
California. They have 6x12 pc board material (FR-4, Glass) for $5.00.
For the other stuff I would suggest Amateur & Antique Radio -- run by
Paul March, K0LNF -- in St. Paul, MN. I was there about a month ago
and could have spent days in his shop ( I did spend hours). Imagine
the junk box of everyone in this group - in one room. Parts, Test
Equipment, Recievers, Transmitters, Trancievers,... well you get the
idea. I wish I could have spent more time there. Anyway I think I
saw some enamaled wire in spools there.
Hope this helps.
72
Kevin, KC8SFJ
For pcb material, you could try the NJQRP "Manhattan Homebrewing Starter
Kit", described at
http://www.njqrp.org/starterkit/index.html. There are in
stock and can ship immediately.
For $15, you get:
1) 2 copper-clad boards 6" x 9" (e.g., nice for base and panels boards of
Boy Scout Regen Receiver in QHB #4)
2) 4 copper-clad boards 3" x 4.5" (good for those smaller projects, like an
RF amp, audio amp, etc.)
3) 5 assorted small scrap pieces of copper-clad boards (good for creating
braces, standoffs, punched pads, etc)
4) 4 thin 3/16" x 6" strips of copper-clad material (snip off in 1/8"
increments to create about 200 Manhattan Pads)
5) 1 small tube of Elmer's Super Glue (2 grams ... enough to attach several
hundred pads)
6) 1 Scotch-Brite abrasive pad (for board cleaning)
7) The "Manhattan-Style Homebrewing Guide" (some 20 pages of instruction,
recommended tools, photo examples from experts such as Jim Kortge, Chuck
Adams and Joe Everhart, and simple practical example projects.)
73, George N2APB
PS: I'm building a 2N2/40 along with you guys ... just following along
quietly in the background here :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin R. Murphy" <adverseyaw@bigfoot.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2001 10:33 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: A couple of source questions
--- In 2n2-40@y..., wa0rse@q... wrote:
> Good evening.
> I'm looking for a good source for 5x7" sheets of
> PC board. Anyone have suggestions?
> In addition to the big-core torroid that I think I
> have covered in the parts coming, what are good
> sources for the other type of core and enamel
> wire? Any suggestions on type of insulation and
> color in that department?
> 72
> --Paul, wa0rse@q...
Paul,
For the PC Board I would suggest All Electronics in Vanuys,
California. They have 6x12 pc board material (FR-4, Glass) for $5.00.
For the other stuff I would suggest Amateur & Antique Radio -- run by
Paul March, K0LNF -- in St. Paul, MN. I was there about a month ago
and could have spent days in his shop ( I did spend hours). Imagine
the junk box of everyone in this group - in one room. Parts, Test
Equipment, Recievers, Transmitters, Trancievers,... well you get the
idea. I wish I could have spent more time there. Anyway I think I
saw some enamaled wire in spools there.
Hope this helps.
72
Kevin, KC8SFJ
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Steve--
Thanks for letting me know! I hope to start "snorting" rosin soon---as soon
as all these caps kits are out.
Ken KG4FGC
Stephen M Smith wrote:
> Ken,
>
> Cap kit rec'd, TNX.
>
> 73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
> WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
> "Snort Rosin"
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Mike,
OK, count me in for the 10-turn pot plus tool.
73,
HansW -WP4GVW (ex KP4ABF) e-mail:
hwp002@yahoo.com --- Mike Schettler <
Mike.Schettler@trw.com> wrote:
> Fellow builders,
> I placed an order with McMaster-Carr for the hex
> wrenches needed for
> the dials. They cost 24 cents each, plus tax, S/H.
> So every dial will
> ship with the appropriate tool.
>
> I'm still working the costs for shipping them out,
> so I don't have the
> final bill, but my first estimate of $5-6 should be
> good.
>
> Please don't send requests for the pots/dials to the
> list! No need to
> clutter up the list. Send directly to me at my home
> email.
>
> mschettler@worldnet.att.net
>
> Thanks for your interest.
>
> Mike Schettler WA6MER
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone.
http://phone.yahoo.comI have this kit, it's well worth it.
Thanks to the NJQRP club for putting it together. In fact, if you any
folks on this list don't have the most recent NJQRP club homebrewer
magazine, there's another $15 you should spend (plus you'll get three
more issues!).
73 de John, N1QO
George Heron N2APB wrote:
>
> For pcb material, you could try the NJQRP "Manhattan Homebrewing Starter
> Kit", described at http://www.njqrp.org/starterkit/index.html. There are in
> stock and can ship immediately.
>
> For $15, you get:
> 1) 2 copper-clad boards 6" x 9" (e.g., nice for base and panels boards of
> Boy Scout Regen Receiver in QHB #4)
> 2) 4 copper-clad boards 3" x 4.5" (good for those smaller projects, like an
> RF amp, audio amp, etc.)
> 3) 5 assorted small scrap pieces of copper-clad boards (good for creating
> braces, standoffs, punched pads, etc)
> 4) 4 thin 3/16" x 6" strips of copper-clad material (snip off in 1/8"
> increments to create about 200 Manhattan Pads)
> 5) 1 small tube of Elmer's Super Glue (2 grams ... enough to attach several
> hundred pads)
> 6) 1 Scotch-Brite abrasive pad (for board cleaning)
> 7) The "Manhattan-Style Homebrewing Guide" (some 20 pages of instruction,
> recommended tools, photo examples from experts such as Jim Kortge, Chuck
> Adams and Joe Everhart, and simple practical example projects.)
>
> 73, George N2APB
>
> PS: I'm building a 2N2/40 along with you guys ... just following along
> quietly in the background here :-)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kevin R. Murphy" <adverseyaw@bigfoot.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2001 10:33 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: A couple of source questions
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., wa0rse@q... wrote:
> > Good evening.
> > I'm looking for a good source for 5x7" sheets of
> > PC board. Anyone have suggestions?
> > In addition to the big-core torroid that I think I
> > have covered in the parts coming, what are good
> > sources for the other type of core and enamel
> > wire? Any suggestions on type of insulation and
> > color in that department?
> > 72
> > --Paul, wa0rse@q...
>
> Paul,
> For the PC Board I would suggest All Electronics in Vanuys,
> California. They have 6x12 pc board material (FR-4, Glass) for $5.00.
> For the other stuff I would suggest Amateur & Antique Radio -- run by
> Paul March, K0LNF -- in St. Paul, MN. I was there about a month ago
> and could have spent days in his shop ( I did spend hours). Imagine
> the junk box of everyone in this group - in one room. Parts, Test
> Equipment, Recievers, Transmitters, Trancievers,... well you get the
> idea. I wish I could have spent more time there. Anyway I think I
> saw some enamaled wire in spools there.
> Hope this helps.
>
> 72
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 06:51 AM 8/22/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim, put me down for the new filter kit. After this is all said and done, it
>sounds like, you could be re-doing the QRPp article. Think about it. It's a
>good thing you are retired.
>
>72
>
>Les Bearl, N0PPF
Les,
Your VBW filter kit will ship today, 10/3/2001.
72 and many thanks for supporting the Yahoo 2N2-40 build.
Jim, K8IQY
Fellow Builders,
After the first 2 days of collecting requests for the 10-turn pot and
dial counters, I have received emails from 19 builders. So there will
be a drawing on Saturday to parcel out the 14 I have. I received the
hex wrenches for the dial set screws, and one will be included with
each dial. The cutoff for requesting to get in on this is Saturday at
6:00PM Pacific time (0100Z Oct 7), so if you are interested let me
know at my home email address. A few guys have asked for either the
pot or the dial alone, so there may be more than 14 names chosen.
The names I have received as of about 10:30PM Tuesday:
Jim Larsen
Steve Holloway
Lee S. Mairs
Tom Dufresne
Delbert Long
Charles E Miller (Bud)
Bob Parks
Tom Little
Kevin Gibson
Ed Stagl
Walt Wilson
Gody Siason
Hans William Perl
Ric Martin
James Wayne Rue
Mac Steinmeyer
Craig Johnson
Kaye Hartman
Patrick York
I will stay with the price of $5 for a pot and dial. Either the pot or
the dial alone for $3. Payable via personal check or money order.
72
Mike Schettler WA6MER
|
451|451|2001-10-04 00:43:11|John Wagner|Parts kits going out tomorrow|Gang,
The first wave of my parts collection is going out tomorrow and should
be in some of your hands before the weekend. It took a lot more time and
effort then I had anticipated but it will be well worth it if there are
50 new 2n2-40's on the air in a couple of months!!! I think I have a
*slight* idea of what Jim went through, except I didn't have to measure
and test 350 crystals! Let me catch my breath and I will publish the
nomenclature here - probably tomorrow.
Just about every kit is spoken for, so if you previously emailed me and
asked to reserve a kit, do not delay in sending your check. I will give
it another week or so and then offer the remaining parts to the list. I
know first hand how easy it is to put off sending out a check - but I'm
also learning what it's like to be sitting on an open project and
wanting to wrap it up.
It looks like we're going to need trimmer caps as part of the final
"clean up buy." I'm personally short a few resistors as well (odd
values, couldn't find 'em at radio shack).
I plan on getting started building sometime next week. I've seen a
couple messages from folks who have already started. Hopefully we'll be
seeing more and more RSN (real soon now).
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGreetings Peoples
I know this is a little late in the game for
something like this, and I'm sorry for not thinking of
this sooner, but a couple of these posts helped jar my
memory banks, and now I will offer the group free of
charge, except for postage, some copper clad board. I
have a bunch of this, much of which is very old
fiberglass, so you are not getting the greatest stuff
in the world, but the price is right.
Here's the deal, write me off list, Preferably at
ke9xq@aol.com, and let me know what your needs or
wants might be. I have lots of large pieces, and will
cut to above your measurements. Most of this is
single sided, some heavier double sided, and a very
little amount of very thin stuff. This thin stuff
might be just the ticket for someone trying
miniaturization (SP) and the stuff is thin enough to
be able to be cut with a scissors. All I ask is
postage, and shipping envelopes.
Any takers???
73 72
Bill KE9XQ
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1Folks,
As advertised the first wave of parts went out today at noon. I'm hoping
some nearby orders will make it to their destination by this Saturday.
They should all have found a home by next Friday.
I would like to thank everyone who ordered and sent an address label
(everyone did) - it makes things MUCH easier.
I'm going to take final inventory of my parts tonight and hopefuly have
enough time to get the base board setup and maybe, just maybe start
sniffin' some solder as I melt a few parts to the board.
Hope everyone is doing well - thanks again,
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi Bill-
First of all, full disclosure--I might not be eligible for your offer cause
I'm not currently building a 2N2/40. Mine's already working and I just
joined the list to pick up 2N2/40 tips and maybe help out.
That said, I'm low on PC material and interested in your offer if 2N2/40
builders don't scarf it all. The thin stuff sounds interesting. Also, it
seems to me that single sided is getting harder to find.
Let me know ...
72--
Nick, WA5BDU
PS--I got Jim, K8IQY to check out my 2N2/40 this year at Arkiecon. Pretty
cool!
-----Original Message-----
From: William Wood [SMTP:
tryvlf@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 1:11 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Cc:
ke9xq@aol.com Subject: [2n2-40] PC Material
Greetings Peoples
I know this is a little late in the game for
something like this, and I'm sorry for not thinking of
this sooner, but a couple of these posts helped jar my
memory banks, and now I will offer the group free of
charge, except for postage, some copper clad board. I
have a bunch of this, much of which is very old
fiberglass, so you are not getting the greatest stuff
in the world, but the price is right.
Here's the deal, write me off list, Preferably at
ke9xq@aol.com, and let me know what your needs or
wants might be. I have lots of large pieces, and will
cut to above your measurements. Most of this is
single sided, some heavier double sided, and a very
little amount of very thin stuff. This thin stuff
might be just the ticket for someone trying
miniaturization (SP) and the stuff is thin enough to
be able to be cut with a scissors. All I ask is
postage, and shipping envelopes.
Any takers???
73 72
Bill KE9XQ
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just
$8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/As soon as I pushed the button I realized I'd spammed the whole list with my personal response. Sorry ...
72--Nick, WA5BDU
|
456|456|2001-10-04 21:37:51|John Wagner|still giddy|Been snortin' solder this evening. ;)
Cut the 5x7 copper board from a piece in the NJQRP Hombrewer kit. Washed
it up with pumice hand soap and the included green pad - nice and shiny.
Marked off the sections with a ruler and pencil, took a final inventory
(I'm short some stuff) and decided build the Rx/Tx driver.
It went together pretty easily. Put +12v on Vcc and tested the switch,
worked as advertised.
I'll be looking for some trimmer caps and a ten-turn pot for the VFO
over the weekend. Looks a bit more involved then the Rx/Tx driver, but
it's all coming back.
Great to be back in the saddle again. ;)
Anyone else getting started?
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJohn -
I got conned into going to West Virginia this weekend. &*(*%^%! I wanted to
get started too. Glad to hear the NJ copper kit worked well. My plan was
to use stuff from it also.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 9:41 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] still giddy
> Been snortin' solder this evening. ;)
>
> Cut the 5x7 copper board from a piece in the NJQRP Hombrewer kit. Washed
> it up with pumice hand soap and the included green pad - nice and shiny.
>
> Marked off the sections with a ruler and pencil, took a final inventory
> (I'm short some stuff) and decided build the Rx/Tx driver.
>
> It went together pretty easily. Put +12v on Vcc and tested the switch,
> worked as advertised.
>
> I'll be looking for some trimmer caps and a ten-turn pot for the VFO
> over the weekend. Looks a bit more involved then the Rx/Tx driver, but
> it's all coming back.
>
> Great to be back in the saddle again. ;)
>
> Anyone else getting started?
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Greetings Nick
Yup, there is some left, in fact quite a bit of the Single Sided material.
The stuff is free, and all I ask is postage and or shipping envelope. I'm
more than glad to share some of this with you, have any idea about what you'd
like? How about two or three sheets of singlesided 8" by 11" or so? Let me
know...
If you have a project in mind, I'll send you off a small piece of that
thin stuff too, I just don't want to give it away if it will collect dust. :
) But, then again I'm guilty of this myself...
Let me know what ya want and we'll see what we can do.
73 72
Bill KE9XQ
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
459|456|2001-10-04 23:22:02|TC Dufresne|Re: still giddy|John:
I started a few weeks ago, also got the switch working FB. Started the VFO,
now just waiting for my MVAM109 diode and my FT37-63 torroid for the
transformer. It was tough getting both 12a and 12b in the mix but I think I
got it!
Meltin' solder..
Tom
|
460|456|2001-10-05 08:14:52|John Wagner|Re: still giddy|FB Tom.
MVAM109 is on its way in the parts I sent, so hopefully you'll be
clicking along soon!
It looks like 5x7 is more then enough room, for some reason I was
thinking it would be cramped. Glad to see that isn't the case; I think a
nice spread out look is good.
73 de John, N1QO
TC Dufresne wrote:
>
> John:
> I started a few weeks ago, also got the switch working FB. Started the VFO,
> now just waiting for my MVAM109 diode and my FT37-63 torroid for the
> transformer. It was tough getting both 12a and 12b in the mix but I think I
> got it!
> Meltin' solder..
> Tom
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGang,
For those of you who ordered the parts collection from me, here is the
nomenclature of the kit. I didn't include this in the package, so
be sure to print out a copy for future reference.
Varicap diodes: These will be easy to tell apart because there
is one of the MVAM109 and two of the MV1662:
D7 - MVAM109 - Black plastic case, two long leads coming from bottom
D8, D9 - MV1662 - Black plastic case, two short leads coming from bottom
RFC's: These look similiar to resistors:
L2, L4 - 39uH molded - orange, white, black bands
L3 - 4.7uH molded - yellow, violet, gold bands
L8 - 12uH molded - brown, red, brown
Heat Sink x 4 (for metal 2n2222) - big and red - nice!
These diodes have their designators written on them but they are hard
to read. I tagged them with one side of colored tape on two of
them - one of them has no tag:
D5 - 1N4735A - No tag
D21 - 1N4744A - Red tag (white in one side)
Dx (for mod) - 1N4752A - White tag
Others:
T10 - only one of its kind in the kit
1N4007 x 2 - black diode, marked
BNC Jack - should be easy to pick out
2N7000 - Marked, taped to cardboard
T50-7 - white toroid
Enjoy!
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comYes, John, others are getting impatient. Built the TX/RX section
and it worked fine, after I got around my first problem in
manhattan style building.
Bought the metal shears at Home Depot to cut the PC board material
(after a disaster trying to use a box-cutter to score and break
the board) and it works well enough, except that when I cut the pads
the cutter leaves the thin strips curved. When I started gluing
several of the pads, they were bent a bit and there was some burr
along the edges. This did not give a flat enough surface for the
super glue (2/$1 generic) to properly bond. They came loose when
I started soldering. Will have to do
better QC in the future, as I don't think I can justify a real
metal shear at this time.
All in all, it went fairly well for the first time down the path.
Will do an inventory tommorrow and see what I need to complete
my parts supply. Still need the 10-turn and some 11-70 trimmers,
at least.
Ric Martin
n5nhi
|
463|462|2001-10-06 08:22:54|John Wagner|Re: solder smoke is rising.|I'm personally fond of making the pads using a hole punch, they seem to
come out pretty flat. I'm going to look into a nibbling tool for making
square or rectangular pads as well - maybe banging them flat after
nibbling would work?
73 de John, N1QO
ricmartin2000@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Bought the metal shears at Home Depot to cut the PC board material
> (after a disaster trying to use a box-cutter to score and break
> the board) and it works well enough, except that when I cut the pads
> the cutter leaves the thin strips curved. When I started gluing
> several of the pads, they were bent a bit and there was some burr
> along the edges. This did not give a flat enough surface for the
> super glue (2/$1 generic) to properly bond. They came loose when
> I started soldering. Will have to do
> better QC in the future, as I don't think I can justify a real
> metal shear at this time.
>
> All in all, it went fairly well for the first time down the path.
>
> Will do an inventory tommorrow and see what I need to complete
> my parts supply. Still need the 10-turn and some 11-70 trimmers,
> at least.
>
> Ric Martin
> n5nhi
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 08:26 AM 10/6/01 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm personally fond of making the pads using a hole punch, they seem to
>come out pretty flat. I'm going to look into a nibbling tool for making
>square or rectangular pads as well - maybe banging them flat after
>nibbling would work?
>
>73 de John, N1QO
John and others,
If you use an ADEL brand nibbling tool to make rectangular pads, you
will not have to do any "post production" operations. They
come out of the nibbler ready to be glued down.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I'm working on a project and was wondering if anyone
makes an 8 pin pad for an 8 pin DIP ic? I have
several opamps in this project and a small socket with
the pads on it would me perfect for me. Does anyone
have any ideas? Thanks in advance.
=====
Dave Pomeroy K8DNP Southwest Michigan
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1Fellow Builders,
I received 23 requests for the 10-turn pots and dials I obtained. My
daughter drew names and the email notifications have been sent. Thanks
to all who were interested. I will start mailing out the items as soon
as payment is received.
Thanks
Mike Schettler WA6MER
|
469|469|2001-10-07 17:40:11|kf4lmz@qsl.net|Board Layout|Hello Gang,
I have a question about the 2N2/40 board layout. The layout diagram in the Winter 1998 QRPp is different than the suggested layout on K8IQY's webpage. Which one should I use? I'm guessing that K8IQY's webpage suggested layout is the one to use due to the changes made since the QRPp article was published. I can't wait to get started building!! Thanks in advance for the help.
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
Rock Hill, South Carolina
|
470|469|2001-10-07 21:04:34|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Board Layout|At 09:40 PM 10/7/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello Gang,
>
>I have a question about the 2N2/40 board layout. The layout diagram in
>the Winter 1998 QRPp is different than the suggested layout on K8IQY's
>webpage. Which one should I use? I'm guessing that K8IQY's webpage
>suggested layout is the one to use due to the changes made since the QRPp
>article was published. I can't wait to get started building!! Thanks in
>advance for the help.
>
>72 de Pat KF4LMZ
>Rock Hill, South Carolina
>
Pat and others,
I'd suggest using the layout in the Winter QRPp, or reprint that
many of you bought. The layouts on the web page were done before
Paul did the illustrations for the article, so are actually older.
Also, the corrections that have been posted on my web page
and elsewhere I'm sure, address the layout from the QRPp article.
Actually, neither one are sacred, and just about any layout you
want to try will probably work. WJ2V proved that! :-) Sorry
Preston, couldn't help myself.......
72 and build on........
Jim, K8IQY
Greetings Peoples
I apologize for the band width here, but I lost an
E-mail, and I know this person wrote to me from this
list. So, I'll kill two birds with one stone.
I've packed up and will ship out tomorrow five
packs of circuit board material, and those of you that
receive this, only owe postage, the envelopes are
free. One shipment is waiting, for an envelope, and
will go out when I get it, and now for the reason for
the post.
Someone wrote me asking for a couple of 6 by 9 inch
pieces of double sided material specifically for a
cabnit, and I lost your address. Must have gotten
carried away with my delete key, and do not see it in
the old mail section either, so would you please write
me again? At least I think it was 6 by 9 inches. Let
me know if you recognize this request.
If you've requested this material, and do not
receive your package in the next week or so, please
write again, in case I missed you too.
Thanks for your patience here.
73 72
Bill KE9XQ
Shalom
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1Hi Group.. Got my parts kit from John today, so I was able to put the last few missing parts in the VFO and fire it up.... IT WORKS! - Sort of :-) Was testing it using a 9v battery as the Vcc and could not get the VFO to adjust up to 2.085 - highest I could get it was 2.005 according to my SSS counter. Am I thinking right here that because of the lower voltage, the value of D7 would not be within parameters, thus dropping the freq?
Anyway, I have the RX/X Driver done and it is working FB. Haven't checked out the Front End yet. This is FUN!!!!!!
Dennis WB0WAO
PS Love that SSS Freq Counter!!!!
|
473|473|2001-10-09 19:48:07|Kevin Murphy, KC8SFJ|Component Kit and Audio Oscillator|Gang,
Got the component kit in the mail today (Thanks John). So I have
built some of the audio section. I started from T10, as Jim
suggested and built up to the RX mute circuit. After I got the audio
output finished, I wanted to check operation with the little speaker
I bought (1 3/16", 0.4W, 8 ohm--All Electronics SK-14). I realized I
didn't have a signal injector to check the audio stage.
After searching on the web I found this one
(
http://www.njqrp.org/quickies/quickie1.html) on the NJQRP page. One
of Joe's Quickies. So I cobbled it up, Manhattan Style of course,
and it works great. I hooked it up to the high end of POT 3. With
the volume all the way up it overdrives the amp, so I kept it down on
the low end.
There is a layout and schematic in the 2n2-40 photos section if you
want to build it yourself, or just check it out.
72,
Kevin, KC8SFJ
At 09:47 PM 10/9/01 +0000, Dennis, WB0WAO wrote:
>Hi Group.. Got my parts kit from John today, so I was able to put the last
>few missing parts in the VFO and fire it up.... IT WORKS! - Sort of
>:-) Was testing it using a 9v battery as the Vcc and could not get the
>VFO to adjust up to 2.085 - highest I could get it was 2.005 according to
>my SSS counter. Am I thinking right here that because of the lower
>voltage, the value of D7 would not be within parameters, thus dropping the
>freq?
The lower voltage may be part of the problem, but I suspect it has
more to do with the way you wound L1, and the capacitors used in
the VFO. Your really not that far from the mark. If you take
a turn off L1, it may put you very near or right on. Certainly,
I would expect taking off two turns will get you there. Having
to remove turns in a VFO inductor is a frequennt event. Part of
it is due to the variablilty in the material used in the toroid core
itself. +/- 10 percent is the normal tolerance.
As for the voltage, measure the top end, (cathode) of D6 with respect
to ground. If you are getting about 6.9 volts, running on the
9 volt supply isn't a problem.
>Anyway, I have the RX/X Driver done and it is working FB. Haven't checked
>out the Front End yet. This is FUN!!!!!!
Glad to hear that!!! :-)
72 and keep building.....
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I have about 50 little PC speakers. I'll give them away for the cost of
shipping.
The little padded 4x7 mailer is 60 cents, and I figure it's 55 cents for
postage.
So send me a $1.15 if you want one. These are those little 8 ohm 3 or 4 inch
jobbies. Honestly though, I've seen them at hamfests for a buck or less.
=========================================================
KB9BVN NORCAL 2792 FISTS 5695 QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
GRID: EM69WN - Ten Tec Scout - Attic Dipole - 5w
Member of the American Radio Relay League - SOC #400
FISTS Century Club #764/#24 QRP - Flying PIG QRP #-57
=========================================================
|
476|476|2001-10-10 01:43:07|sigcom@juno.com|Re: Transistor/diode kit update and thank you's|Group,
I finally buckled-down and finished matching the diodes, whew! I did 60
sets for a total of 240 diodes matched. I probably measured over 250
total.
Anyway, it's done, the kits are packaged, labelled and ready for postage.
I will do that tomorrow and get them in the mail for those who have sent
payment.
I want to thank all of you who participated, especially those who sent
letters, QSL cards and notes of encouragement. That was very uplifting
and made the end of the project quite enjoyable.
Now on to the wire kit, I guess :-).
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Group,
Great tip Kevin!
I must chime in here and say that Joe's Quickie #1 is a great little
piece of test equipment for those of you who don't have your own audio
oscillator. The best thing about this little gem is that it puts out a
clean sine wave and only uses a few parts. Just the thing to get your
feet wet building Manhattan style.
Even a simple gadget like this can be invaluable when troubleshooting or
testing audio circuits.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"snort rosin"
>
> Gang,
> Got the component kit in the mail today (Thanks John). So I have
> built some of the audio section. I started from T10, as Jim
> suggested and built up to the RX mute circuit. After I got the
> audio
> output finished, I wanted to check operation with the little speaker
>
> I bought (1 3/16", 0.4W, 8 ohm--All Electronics SK-14). I realized
> I
> didn't have a signal injector to check the audio stage.
> After searching on the web I found this one
> (http://www.njqrp.org/quickies/quickie1.html) on the NJQRP page.
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Steve,
Thank you for all of your work on behalf of the group. I think I can
safely speak for everyone when I say that your donations of parts and
time are very much appreciated.
I'm waiting for delivery of a few more parts that were in an order to
mouser and then I'll be "complete." Looking forward to building the VFO
and marveling at with my o'scope. ;)
I also plan on taking some pictures soon and chronicling my progress on
a web page. I would like to encourage others to do the same. It need not
be anything fancy either. The thing is, most of us don't have the
advantage of all being physically close together so pictures are the
next best thing to seeing what others are doing. You can use the Yahoo
site (although I think the space is limited to 20 meg), or you can get
free web space from somewhere like
http://www.qsl.net or geocities, or
... Point is, I really do like seeing what other peoples radios look
like - especially while they're being built!
73 de John, N1QO
sigcom@juno.com wrote:
>
> Group,
>
> I finally buckled-down and finished matching the diodes, whew! I did 60
> sets for a total of 240 diodes matched. I probably measured over 250
> total.
>
> Anyway, it's done, the kits are packaged, labelled and ready for postage.
> I will do that tomorrow and get them in the mail for those who have sent
> payment.
>
> I want to thank all of you who participated, especially those who sent
> letters, QSL cards and notes of encouragement. That was very uplifting
> and made the end of the project quite enjoyable.
>
> Now on to the wire kit, I guess :-).
>
> 73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
> WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
> "snort rosin"
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGang -
TNX Jim for the advice and I took off one turn on the torrid and it brought it up to just a below the "nominal" value! I think I will have to remove one more turn but I am waiting until I get the RIT hooked up and in the circut and measure it then. Good thing I am printing out some of the messages and keeping them in my "workbook" :-)
Got the "chassis" done up last nite and today and will post a pic of it tonite. Kinda basic and simple, but should work. Couple of "additions" I did was to put in a TICK keyer and the appropriate controls on the front. Put a switch on the front to select between a set of paddles and a straight key, the CMD key, and a switch to turn the piezo on and off.
My mail PC board is bigger than the 5x7 (mine is 6x9) so later on I can play with it and maybe make some mods to it later - if ever get brave enuf :-) Took a pic of it as well.
As far as the pics are concerned, I will leave 'em in the group pic area for about a week or so and then take 'em off.
|
480|480|2001-10-10 13:37:34|Delbert Long|Board Layout / placement|I laid out my circuit board according to the play shown on Jim's page...the
one with RX/TX driver down in the corner...then wanted to see how the parts
should be oriented, and I see that Layout by WJ2V does not match...this may
be a question that has already been answered somewhere, but can anyone help?
Thanks...
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
It ain't over 'till it's over. - Yogi Berra
God Bless Us, Everyone. - Tiny Tim
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspOkay, I found the answer...sort of. Could anybody email/fax/carrier
pigeon a copy of the QRPp layout?
Thanks,
Del, AD6WE
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 09:40 PM 10/7/01 +0000, you wrote:
> >Hello Gang,
> >
> >I have a question about the 2N2/40 board layout. The layout
diagram in
> >the Winter 1998 QRPp is different than the suggested layout on
K8IQY's
> >webpage. Which one should I use? I'm guessing that K8IQY's
webpage
> Pat and others,
>
> I'd suggest using the layout in the Winter QRPp, or reprint that
> Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
Today at lunch I mailed off the second wave of parts. 3 packs (one
envelope) went to England, 1 to Japan and 2 in the CONUS. With 4 packs
going overseas, there is a good chance that we will have some great DX 2
x 2n2-40 QSO's!
I'm going to give everyone who emailed their intention to order parts
another week and then I'm going to open up the remaining parts packs to
anyone who wants them.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGang,
I've redrawn a set of schematics that now includes all of the
changes I've made to my 2nd rig. Those changes include the
RIT circuitry, new receiver RF amplifier, new receiver post-
mixer amplifier, revised VBW crystal filter using the MV1662
varicap diodes and 180pF coupling capacitors, and 2N7000 receive
audio mute circuitry. In addition, I made a couple of very
small changes, one to the VFO by moving TC3 to a better location
for setting the VFO span, and adding two diodes to the product
detector for better performance. The connections to
the receiver DBM and product detectors have also been changed to
optimize (reduce) driving signal feedthrough. I also reduced
the gain in the IF stage to make it easier to build without
instability. These changes, along with doing some drawing
cleanup on the front-end and VFO should help with the upcoming
building flurry.
I'll post an updated Bill of Material for this set of schematics
as soon as it is done and verified. Both versions, ASCII and
EXCEL spreedsheet formats will be available shortly.
As for layouts, the most current layout is the information contained
in the Winter 1998 QRPp article, and the equivalent in the stand-a-lone
reprint from Quick Silver Printing aka Paul, NA5N. However, remember
information from those two publications is copyrighted and should not
be copied and given to others. It is not in the public domain, and
that's why that information isn't on my web site. The layout drawings
belong to Paul, not me. The original layout on my web page will
work just fine if you have nothing else available, but I encourage
everyone to use some ingenuity while building their rig. The
layout isn't all that critical, and if you play with it a bit,
you'll undoubtedly find a better way of doing it than I did when
I built the first two rigs. The layouts in those two rigs are
similar, by markedly different in detail. Both work GREAT!
Lastly, I have shipped 49 of the 50 VBW filter kits, and 14 of
the 15 fixed BW kits. I did buy more parts for VBW kits, and
probably do another 10 if there is interest/demand. Email
me directly if you are interested. The filters going to
Japan, England, and Puerto Rico have all safely arrived. I
haven't heard anything back from any of the Canadian gang.
If you ordered a filter and have not received it, or it arrived
with the packaging not intact, contact me offline. I don't want
anybody to be disappointed with their kit. Life is too short
for those kinds of things!
72 and happy building all; let the fun begin.....
Jim, K8IQY
|
484|483|2001-10-10 17:08:07|va7no@canada.com|Re: Updated/Revised 2N2/40+ Schematics|SORRY JIM I SHOULD HAVE LET YOU KNOW THE KITS CAME THROUGH OK. JOHN VA7N0 VE7FDG
__________________________________________________________
Get your FREE personalized e-mail at
http://www.canada.comI got my diode and my F37-61 toroid and soldered 'em in last nite. Tonite I
hooked 'er up, and its making noises.
I have soooo many questions.....
(newbie alert)
1) When the 10 turn, 20k pot is turned all the way counterclockwise (to the
left), I can hear a nice tone, about 800hrz, at 1.995mHz (handy dandy
RX398). When I am all the way to the right (clockwise) I hear the tone at
2.085mHz. I need to remove a turn on L1, right?
2) Why do I have TC4? I can alter the tone by turning TC4, but (sheepish
grin) I really don't know what I am doing here....
3) To get that nice tone from 2.085-2.185mHz, I need to remove a turn from
L1, yes? Maybe 2 turns, or whatever. What is TC4 for? Can I get that range
by adjusting TC4 somehow, or is it just for hi or low end "fine tuning"?
It appears I have about 100kHz of range, or so, just not the right area.
As an aside, it was soo cool to hear this thing. (I had my doubts I was
going in the right direction....)
I can't wait to build the next stage, the receiver front end.
Tom
KC0GXX
|
486|485|2001-10-11 09:48:36|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: It is alive! But wait.......|At 03:22 AM 10/11/01 +0100, Tom, KC0GXX wrote:
>I got my diode and my F37-61 toroid and soldered 'em in last nite. Tonite I
>hooked 'er up, and its making noises.
>
>I have soooo many questions.....
>
>(newbie alert)
>
>1) When the 10 turn, 20k pot is turned all the way counterclockwise (to the
>left), I can hear a nice tone, about 800hrz, at 1.995mHz (handy dandy
>RX398). When I am all the way to the right (clockwise) I hear the tone at
>2.085mHz. I need to remove a turn on L1, right?
Sure sounds like that would be appropriate. You've got 90 KHz
of coverage, but it's just too low. Removing a turn will move
the frequency range up, and also make is a bit wider.
>2) Why do I have TC4? I can alter the tone by turning TC4, but (sheepish
>grin) I really don't know what I am doing here....
TC4 sets how low, (or high) the VFO will tune. With the control pot
all the way counter clockwise, you adjust TC4 for the bottom of the
VFO range, i.e. 2.085 MHz nominally. The exact lower end adjustment
can't be done until you get the crystal filter done and actually set
the VFO to place the received signal on 7.000 MHz in the middle of
the filter's passband.
>3) To get that nice tone from 2.085-2.185mHz, I need to remove a turn from
>L1, yes? Maybe 2 turns, or whatever. What is TC4 for? Can I get that range
>by adjusting TC4 somehow, or is it just for hi or low end "fine tuning"?
See above......
>It appears I have about 100kHz of range, or so, just not the right area.
Correct!
>As an aside, it was soo cool to hear this thing. (I had my doubts I was
>going in the right direction....)
Sounds and looks to me like you are going along fine. Others on
the list are probably green with envy.
>I can't wait to build the next stage, the receiver front end.
We're all waiting to hear the news that that section is complete
and working too.
72 and GL building the next stage,
Jim, K8IQY
Tom,
Just reading this makes me want to bag the job today and go home and melt
solder. Sounds like you're doing a great job. I can't wait to get started.
I think I need to make one more Mouser order and away I'll go.
73
----- Original Message -----
From: "TC Dufresne" <tdufresne@neb.rr.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 10:22 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] It is alive! But wait.......
> I got my diode and my F37-61 toroid and soldered 'em in last nite. Tonite
I
> hooked 'er up, and its making noises.
>
> I have soooo many questions.....
>
> (newbie alert)
>
> 1) When the 10 turn, 20k pot is turned all the way counterclockwise (to
the
> left), I can hear a nice tone, about 800hrz, at 1.995mHz (handy dandy
> RX398). When I am all the way to the right (clockwise) I hear the tone at
> 2.085mHz. I need to remove a turn on L1, right?
>
> 2) Why do I have TC4? I can alter the tone by turning TC4, but (sheepish
> grin) I really don't know what I am doing here....
>
> 3) To get that nice tone from 2.085-2.185mHz, I need to remove a turn from
> L1, yes? Maybe 2 turns, or whatever. What is TC4 for? Can I get that range
> by adjusting TC4 somehow, or is it just for hi or low end "fine tuning"?
>
> It appears I have about 100kHz of range, or so, just not the right area.
>
> As an aside, it was soo cool to hear this thing. (I had my doubts I was
> going in the right direction....)
>
> I can't wait to build the next stage, the receiver front end.
> Tom
> KC0GXX
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> Sounds and looks to me like you are going along fine. Others on
> the list are probably green with envy.
>
You got that right!!!
72 de Lee, KM4YY
Suburbia is where the developer bulldozes out the trees, then names the
streets after them.
--Bill Vaughn
>
How critical is the physical location of C68, a .01 cap? I would rather
mount it on the board at the intersection of r60/c66/r59 to ground then
on the key jack.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 11:52 AM 10/12/01 -0400, John, N1QO wrote:
>How critical is the physical location of C68, a .01 cap? I would rather
>mount it on the board at the intersection of r60/c66/r59 to ground then
>on the key jack.
>
>73 de John, N1QO
It isn't critical John. I was just trying to convey where
it was mounted on my rig. Probably won't make any difference,
especially if the lead to the key jack is reasonably short.
Good question by the way; there have been many good ones from
this collective effort.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I posted this message earlier from the Yahoo site, but since it still hasn't
shown up, I'm going to make my report again.
Got the RX/TX driver together last night and it works...Hooray!
I went through the schematics and made sure I knew which way they should be
oriented so that I wouldn't have to put jumpers in from one stage to the
next after putting them in backwards...
Revised circuits don't exactly match the suggested layouts on Jim's 2N2
page...might have to do a little modification there...
Questions on the capacitors that may have been answered earlier - weren't
the 0.22 uF caps used because Jim had a lifetime worth of them, and 0.1uF
caps will work just as well?
Which of the caps should be particular types i.e. NPO, Disk Ceramic,
Monolythic, Silver Mica.......?
Looks like one stage per week might be reasonable to expect from me.
Having a great time...hope to get on the air with this radio real soon!
73,
Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
Grid Square DM13av
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
It ain't over 'till it's over. - Yogi Berra
God Bless Us, Everyone. - Tiny Tim
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 02:41 PM 10/11/01 +0000, Tom, KC0GXX wrote:
>Jim:
Howdy Tom,
>Thanks for the reply. It's been a lot of fun, even though Mouser, Radio
>Shack, and Ocean State Electronics have me on their speed dialers.
Welcome to the club!!!
>So far so good.... I will try removing a turn or so from L1 and get 'er right.
I suspect that will put you very close.
>I am looking forward (yeah right) to the tri-filars...wow. Say, can I wind
>them with like 2 different gauges of wire to get the color thing going?
Yes, but they won't come out quite as nice as when all the strands
are the same guage. The wires don't twist together as well with
different guages, since the larger guages are stiffer.
>Like 26 and 28 gauge. Or should I just stick with one gauge?
I prefer one guage, and use #28 for my bifilar and trifilar
transformers. #30 guage works well too. When you get 2 or 3
strands of #26 or #24, it gets impossible to do a good job winding
the 8-10 turns you need on a 37 size core.
>I have 26 24 and I think 28.
Use the #28 then. A little colored nail polish on the various
ends will help when you start soldering the correct ends together.
I buy nail polish in various colors at the local Dollar store.
Cheap stuff, but it works fine for color coding wires.
I'm going to post this reply to the 2N2-40 group too, as others
may benefit.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:05 AM 10/13/01 +0100, Tom, KC0GXX wrote:
>Well, Jim, I took off two windings, one at a time, and now she is "making
>noises " from 2.089mHz to 2.185mHz. Pretty close!
Yes, very decent Tom.
>How come there is a small loss of ~5kHz?
I don't understand this question. When you had the full 44 turns,
I think you were getting about 90 KHz of span, and now with 2
turns removed, you are getting, more, about 95 KHz. That's quite
typical, as turns are removed and the inductance goes down, the
frequency span widens. If you want to get the full 100 KHz, then
you'll have to parallel C10 with a very small capacitor to increase
it's value just a touch. What works very well is a 'gimmic' capacitor
made from a pair of #28 or #26 wires twisted together at 8-10 turns
per inch and maybe 1.5 inches long. This is soldered across C10.
You check the span of the VFO; it will be too wide, that is, greater
than 100 KHz. Now start nipping off small pieces of this capacitor
by cutting both wires with a sharp pair of side cutters. A 1/16 inch
piece is about right. You keep measuring the end points, and cutting
until the span is right on 100 KHz. Then adjust TC4 to put the bottom
of the VFO at the band edge, that is, 2.085 MHz. It's best to do this
fine tuning after the rig is working, and you know where the center of
the crystal filter is, as each rig will have a slightly different
VFO top and bottom due to the crystal filters being different.
The other approach to the above is to parallel C10 with a small
trimmer, and that's what I show in the revised schematics I posted
on the Yahoo site. That trimmer is a 3-10 pF, or something similar.
The smaller the minimum capacitance, the better.
>I notice if I spread or "smush" (is that a word?) the coil on L1 there is a
>significant difference, but then of course I either loose or gain it in the
>other end of the spectrum.
Well if you do the end measurements carefully, you'll see that you
are losing span as the coils are compressed together, and gaining
span as they are spread apart, along with the whole span moving up
and down in frequency, depending on whether the turns are close,
or farther apart.
>Is it just the "nominal" tuning, or did I screw up the building somewhere?
It sounds like you have a plenty close for the moment. You can't do
the final tweaking until the receiver is finished and you can receive
signals on it. Then you'll actually know where the band edges are going
to be.
>Started the 3rd part yesterday, I like the idea for the nail polish on the
>windings. I will try that!
Yup.....that method works just fine.
>Thanks again
You bet, happy and successful building on the next stage.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 05:57 PM 10/13/01 +0100, you wrote:
>Building the 2N-40 rig, I a using the neat teflon coated wire. It looks
>good, and the insulation doesn't melt.
>
>I am having problems stripping it, though. I bought a neat tool, but it
>doesn't seem to work on the teflon wire, though it does do a nice job on
>regular wire.
>Any ideas?
>Tom
>KC0GXX
Tom
Use an Xacto knife with a #11 blade. That's all I ever use for
teflon wire, but be careful not to nick the wires or your thumb.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 09:35 PM 10/12/01 +0000, Delbert Long wrote:
>Got the RX/TX driver together last night and it works...Hooray!
>
>I went through the schematics and made sure I knew which way they should be
>oriented so that I wouldn't have to put jumpers in from one stage to the
>next after putting them in backwards...
>
>Revised circuits don't exactly match the suggested layouts on Jim's 2N2
>page...might have to do a little modification there...
Yes, that's correct. I made no attempt to keep the same pad layout
for the new circuitry. That would have been a maddening, impossible,
job. Better someone else do that, as I want to remain sane! :-)
>Questions on the capacitors that may have been answered earlier - weren't
>the 0.22 uF caps used because Jim had a lifetime worth of them, and 0.1uF
>caps will work just as well?
0.22 and 0.1 uF caps are interchangeable where that are being used
as an RF bypass. If being used as a coupling capacitor at audio
frequencies, then don't make that substitution. If you are not
sure about a particular capacitor, just ask.
>Which of the caps should be particular types i.e. NPO, Disk Ceramic,
>Monolythic, Silver Mica.......?
I think all of the special caps are identified on the schematic with
regard to having to be an NPO, polyester, polystyrene, etc. All
of the others are either monolythic ceramics (disk or multilayer)
or electrolytics.
>Looks like one stage per week might be reasonable to expect from me.
Sounds like a reasonable goal to me. If you were "melt solder"
Steve Weber, it would be a stage per hour. Man, that guy can
build fast!
>Having a great time...hope to get on the air with this radio real soon!
Good, we'll all have to get one the air sometime this winter for a
2N2/40 sprint.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
I take it that it is made of magnet wire, right? That is a new one on me, never heard of that before!
Will try to get a couple of pics posted in the next few days! I'm having a ball! I'm redoing part of the third stage now, and will start on the fourth mid week. Yep, a 2n2 QSO Party is a great idea!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
497|496|2001-10-14 22:20:24|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Gimmic Cap ??|At 03:26 PM 10/14/01 +0000, Dennis - WB0WAO wrote:
>Jim,
> I take it that it is made of magnet wire, right? That is a new one on
> me, never heard of that before!
Dennis,
Yes, two strands of magnet wire twisted at 8-10 turns per inch. Just
snip it off with sharp cutters to set the needed capacitance. A
very good way of making small capacitors, that are stable.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Okay, I didn't have all the schematics at home, so when I got to work today
and was able to check the old against the new I discovered that Q2 and Q3 on
the old schematic are designated Q1 and Q2 on the new one, and other parts
have new designations as well. So, now that that is straightened out I
think I can move on ;<)
2nd question: Since C67 on the RX/TX driver (old) has been replaced with a
0.01 cap on the new schematic, that puts two 0.01's in parallel (C67 and
C68). Wouldn't a 0.02 do as well alone? (or .1 even, since they are both
bypass caps.)
Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
Grid Square DM13av
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
It ain't over 'till it's over. - Yogi Berra
God Bless Us, Everyone. - Tiny Tim
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 07:44 PM 10/15/01 +0000, Delbert Long, AD6WE wrote:
>-snip-
>2nd question: Since C67 on the RX/TX driver (old) has been replaced with a
>0.01 cap on the new schematic, that puts two 0.01's in parallel (C67 and
>C68). Wouldn't a 0.02 do as well alone? (or .1 even, since they are both
>bypass caps.)
Yes and no. If you look at the revised schematic, there should be a
note that C68 is mounted at the key line connector. That could be
quite a distance from C67, depending on your packaging. As for
raising the value, yes, that can be done, but it might start
to interfere with the QSK switching. Those two capacitors were
made small on purpose.
Hope that all makes sense Del.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>Delbert Long, AD6WE
>2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
>Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
>Grid Square DM13av
>
>Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
>Einstein
>
>It ain't over 'till it's over. - Yogi Berra
>
>God Bless Us, Everyone. - Tiny Tim
>
>
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>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
>
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>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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My mailman (and neighbor) brought the last of the goodies from Mouser
this afternoon! I will hopefully melt together a working VFO later this
week. I'm still working on training my neighbor (and mailman) to NOT
bring the heavy Harbor Freight boxes when the XYL is home - but that's
another story for another day...
I've also started a web page to document my progress with photos. So
that I don't use up the space here on the Yahoo site, I've done this on
my QSL.net web site. You can see the first three pics at;
http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/index.html - I do plan on writing more
later.
Hope everyone else is getting started - looking forward to seeing the
progress you folks are making.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHey gang,
Well, I got the third sequence finished and decided to give it the smoke test....
Good News...
1. RF Gain control works.
2. Xmiting on 7.050 with the VFO set to 2.135 (thanks to the SSS freq counter) and my R-2000 set to 4.195, I hear the 40m sig.
3. All the smoke stayed in all the parts!
Bad News...
1. No matter what I do, I cannot peak the signal up by adjusting the two trimmer caps!
2. The signal on the R-2000 is pretty weak!
Soooooo, possibly I need to re-do one or both of the transformers in the input filter or is there something else I should try first (hopefully)... :-)
What say the gurus???
72
Dennis
|
502|502|2001-10-17 14:30:14|Delbert Long|Losing Sleep...|Staying up late...gluing down pads...melting solder...snorting rosin...my
wife says she is happy, thinks it's good for me, I guess she is glad I'm at
home staying up late.
Anyhow, I'm halfway through the VFO, and kicking myself because I snoozed
through the cap order - looked thru the checkbook and nothing in there for
the cap kit...where was I anyway?...anyone got some extras lying about?
Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
Grid Square DM13av
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
It ain't over 'till it's over. - Yogi Berra
God Bless Us, Everyone. - Tiny Tim
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspI am using one of the 2K Pots for the main tuning. (Unless I am mistaken
that is Pot1 on the new schematic and Pot2 on the old one right?)
I used two 1K's in parallel instead of the 560 ohm called for between VCC
and D5.
Change R10 from 15K to 1.5K?
Is C12 an NPO? How about using a 100 or 150pf trimmer across it instead of
trying different values for max output?
Why is TC3 optional? What's the difference if it isn't put in there?
Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
Grid Square DM13av
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
It ain't over 'till it's over. - Yogi Berra
God Bless Us, Everyone. - Tiny Tim
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 09:15 PM 10/16/01 +0000, Dennis wrote:
>Hey gang,
> Well, I got the third sequence finished and decided to give it the
> smoke test....
>
>Good News...
>1. RF Gain control works.
>
>2. Xmiting on 7.050 with the VFO set to 2.135 (thanks to the SSS freq
>counter) and my R-2000 set to 4.195, I hear the 40m sig.
>
>3. All the smoke stayed in all the parts!
>
>Bad News...
>1. No matter what I do, I cannot peak the signal up by adjusting the two
>trimmer caps!
A couple of possibilities. 1) There is too much/little wire on the toroids
to allow them to tune with the fixed caps and trimmers used. Are you
sure those are correct? When you have it correct, there should be two
peaks as you rotate TC1 and TC2 through 360 degrees. A second
possibility if you are not seeing any change in output as the trimmers
are turned is you've swapped the primaries and secondaries of T1 and T2,
so that the trimmers and parallel caps are across the wrong winding.
Check you wiring to make sure those transformers are correct, and
that the 3pF coupling capacitor is there.
>2. The signal on the R-2000 is pretty weak!
Without the front-end tuning up, it should be.......
>Soooooo, possibly I need to re-do one or both of the transformers in the
>input filter or is there something else I should try first (hopefully)... :-)
>
>What say the gurus???
You're on the right track. When you find it, I'll be it will be
an obvious error.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
At 07:07 PM 10/17/01 +0000, Delbert Long, AD6WE wrote:
>I am using one of the 2K Pots for the main tuning. (Unless I am mistaken
>that is Pot1 on the new schematic and Pot2 on the old one right?)
Yes, that is correct!
>I used two 1K's in parallel instead of the 560 ohm called for between VCC
>and D5.
That's close enough. It should be a 470 Ohm with the 2K pot, but
what you have will work just fine.
>Change R10 from 15K to 1.5K?
Probably in the ball park.
>Is C12 an NPO?
Yes, or a silver mica or polystyrene. All three will work fine
because they are low loss at rf frequencies.
> How about using a 100 or 150pf trimmer across it instead of
>trying different values for max output?
That will be fine. I'd probably start with a 270pF with
a 100pF trimmer in parallel. Since this circuit is quite
heavily loaded by the mixer, there isn't a very sharp peak.
>Why is TC3 optional?
Only needed if you want to have exactly 100 KHz of band
coverage. If 95 KHz or 106 is fine, depending on how
your VFO comes out, it isn't needed.
> What's the difference if it isn't put in there?
See above.
72 and thanks for keeping us posted on your progress. Keep building
and asking those good questions.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 01:49 PM 10/16/01 -0700, you wrote:
>The email reply from Jim Kortge is on my computer at home. I'll look for
>it tonite.
>Basically, as I recall, Jim said to adjust R63 such that the VFO tunes to
>the center frequency in your frequency range when the 10T pot is set right
>at the middle of its range.
Mike....you've got it correct. The above assumes that the VFO tuning
range is indeed 2.085 to 2.185.
>In other words, the VFO should normally tune from 2.085 to 2.185 MHz, for
>a radio that tunes from 7.0 to 7.1 MHz. Therefore, set the 10T pot (POT2)
>at its exact middle (or for a 5.0 setting on the counter dial). Adjust the
>value of R63 until the VFO is at 2.135 MHz (middle of the tuning frequency
>range). I think that will do it.
Correct!
>Also, Jim said that the value of R5 might need to be slightly smaller.
>This is because the 2K 10T pot takes an extra 2.8 mA or so of current. I
>doubt the value of R5 will need to be changed, but if you want to try it,
>the next lower value is 510 ohms.
Well actually, to have the same current flowing through D5 and D6
with the 2K pot being used takes a 460 Ohm for R5, so it should
be a 470 Ohm if you want to be rigorous about it. Still not
much of a change though from the original 560 Ohm.
72 and thanks for helping out,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I have a question about T4 on the new schematic (labeled T5 on the old).
I searched the archives and didn't find this mentioned, appologies if
we've already covered it.
All was all set to write up a description of what's different, but it's
just too confusing. Can someone help out with a description of the
changes (and confirm that the new schematic is indeed correct)?
Thanks.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 08:59 PM 10/17/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>I have a question about T4 on the new schematic (labeled T5 on the old).
>I searched the archives and didn't find this mentioned, appologies if
>we've already covered it.
>
>All was all set to write up a description of what's different, but it's
>just too confusing. Can someone help out with a description of the
>changes (and confirm that the new schematic is indeed correct)?
>
>Thanks.
>
>73 de John, N1QO
John,
What's the question?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Yes... it would be helpful if I actually asked a question, wouldn't it?
Arghhhh... long day.
My question is the connection from T5 (new) to T4. In the old schematic,
it looks like T6.4 (old label) goes to T5.4.5 and T5.1 goes to "C". In
the new schematic, T5.4 goes to T4.1 and T4.4.5 goes to "C" - I just
want to confirm this is correct - and am wondering why it is that way
now.
Started the VFO tonight - that's a good thing. ;) Hope to hear it
oscillating tomorrow evening sometime.
73 de John, N1QO
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> At 08:59 PM 10/17/01 -0400, you wrote:
> >Gang,
> >
> >I have a question about T4 on the new schematic (labeled T5 on the old).
> >I searched the archives and didn't find this mentioned, appologies if
> >we've already covered it.
> >
> >All was all set to write up a description of what's different, but it's
> >just too confusing. Can someone help out with a description of the
> >changes (and confirm that the new schematic is indeed correct)?
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
> >73 de John, N1QO
>
> John,
>
> What's the question?
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI just finished my last solder point on the 3d stage tonite, time to QRT.
Even had time for a few nice QSO's with a KD4 and a W8. I will wind the
dreaded T4 and T5 trifilar's tomorrow.
Did I see where there was a controversary as to where the leads were wired?
I am using for all practical purposes the older QRPp "book" I got in the
mail. Very nice. I m also using the updates available on the website, and
have access to the "newer" schematics.
Actually, the bifilar (T3) in the RF amp wasn't too bad. Checked for
continuity and shorts, everything OK. Wired 'er right up. Kinda fun. I used
#30 enamel I found in my junk box, will also use it for the trifilars if ok
(?)
Did I get some looks when I went into Osco drugs and had to face some pimply
kid when I bought my nail polish, top use as a marker of course. ;)
Oh well, maybe I'll get those terrible tri's in tomorrow night. (gasp) then
I just might have to test it.
BTW, does anyone else get the heebie-jeebies when they first power up
something like this? I almost am afraid to try it, for fear of
failure....... :(
73's
Tom
KC0GXX
|
511|510|2001-10-18 01:19:39|Wes Clopton|Re: Update on 2N2-40|Tom, Thats feeling your talking about (the heebie-jeebies) goes
with the magic of Ham Radio. Ive felt it now for close to 50 yrs.
Wait till your first contact with your 2n2-40....wow
Hope its with me, ....enjoy
W3ERU WES
At 04:52 AM 10/18/01 +0100, you wrote:
>I just finished my last solder point on the 3d stage tonite, time to QRT.
>Even had time for a few nice QSO's with a KD4 and a W8. I will wind the
>dreaded T4 and T5 trifilar's tomorrow.
>
>Did I see where there was a controversary as to where the leads were wired?
>I am using for all practical purposes the older QRPp "book" I got in the
>mail. Very nice. I m also using the updates available on the website, and
>have access to the "newer" schematics.
>
>Actually, the bifilar (T3) in the RF amp wasn't too bad. Checked for
>continuity and shorts, everything OK. Wired 'er right up. Kinda fun. I used
>#30 enamel I found in my junk box, will also use it for the trifilars if ok
>(?)
>
>Did I get some looks when I went into Osco drugs and had to face some pimply
>kid when I bought my nail polish, top use as a marker of course. ;)
>Oh well, maybe I'll get those terrible tri's in tomorrow night. (gasp) then
>I just might have to test it.
>
>BTW, does anyone else get the heebie-jeebies when they first power up
>something like this? I almost am afraid to try it, for fear of
>failure....... :(
>
>73's
>Tom
>KC0GXX
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 11:07 PM 10/17/01 -0400, John, N1QO wrote:
>Yes... it would be helpful if I actually asked a question, wouldn't it?
I thought I was the only one who did things like that..... :-)
>Arghhhh... long day.
>
>My question is the connection from T5 (new) to T4. In the old schematic,
>it looks like T6.4 (old label) goes to T5.4.5 and T5.1 goes to "C".
Yes, that's the way I had it in the schematic and constructed. I got
the configuration for a DBM out of a rather well know reference book.
Turns out it is dead wrong. It doesn't balance the drive from the
VFO, and lots of signal from that ends up getting passed to the
crystal filter.
>In
>the new schematic, T5.4 goes to T4.1 and T4.4.5 goes to "C" - I just
>want to confirm this is correct - and am wondering why it is that way
>now.
Yes, this schematic is indeed the correct way to wire a double balanced
mixer so that the RF signal is balanced, and the VFO drive is balanced,
and a minimum amount of each show up on the output, which is port C
on the schematic. I had my 2N2/40 wired incorrectly for over a year
until the light turned on one day and I figured it was called a
"Double balanced mixer" for a reason. More research lead to the
discovery that the original configuration was indeed wrong. I
ditched the reference that I had gotten that configuration out
of, and rebuilt it correctly in both of my rigs. I didn't go
back and update the schematics on the web site nor update the
eratta sheet with this fact, as the mixer will still work, but
not as well as when it is in the correct configuration.
Now you know the whole ugly story!! :-)
I hope everyone uses the newer schematics for at least this part of
the rig, and for the product detector. It will improve the performance
of the rig!
72 and thanks for asking a really good and important question.
Jim, K8IQY
Hi guys -
Know I am confused. What is the old schematic and what is the new
schematic. I have the bound version of the article with all the great
drawings in it. Is there something more recent aside from the VBW filter
change?
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Error of opinion may be tolerated where reason is left free to combat it.
-- Thomas Jefferson
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] T4 on new schematic
> Yes... it would be helpful if I actually asked a question, wouldn't it?
>
> Arghhhh... long day.
>
> My question is the connection from T5 (new) to T4. In the old schematic,
> it looks like T6.4 (old label) goes to T5.4.5 and T5.1 goes to "C". In
> the new schematic, T5.4 goes to T4.1 and T4.4.5 goes to "C" - I just
> want to confirm this is correct - and am wondering why it is that way
> now.
>
> Started the VFO tonight - that's a good thing. ;) Hope to hear it
> oscillating tomorrow evening sometime.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> >
> > At 08:59 PM 10/17/01 -0400, you wrote:
> > >Gang,
> > >
> > >I have a question about T4 on the new schematic (labeled T5 on the
old).
> > >I searched the archives and didn't find this mentioned, appologies if
> > >we've already covered it.
> > >
> > >All was all set to write up a description of what's different, but it's
> > >just too confusing. Can someone help out with a description of the
> > >changes (and confirm that the new schematic is indeed correct)?
> > >
> > >Thanks.
> > >
> > >73 de John, N1QO
> >
> > John,
> >
> > What's the question?
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
The "old" schematic is on Jims website (
http://www.qsl.net/k8iqy/ ) and
in the QRPp book.
The "new" schematic is on the Yahoo 2n2-40 website (
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40 ) in the "Photos" section, "2N240+
Updated Schematics" folder. There are four sheets.
For the most part, the drawings are correct and the parts numbering
matches the parts numbering of the old schematic. The new schematic has
a different part numbering scheme, but it's not difficult to translate
from old to new and get everything matched up. I initially worried about
this when starting the VFO but in practice it wasn't an issue, really.
Just take a sub-section of the section at a time and you'll be fine.
I had to do a little fiddling with the VFO layout last night, but it's
not difficult to move things around. My VFO should be finished tonight,
so I guess we'll find out soon enough how well it went!
73 de John, N1QO
"Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
>
> Hi guys -
> Know I am confused. What is the old schematic and what is the new
> schematic. I have the bound version of the article with all the great
> drawings in it. Is there something more recent aside from the VBW filter
> change?
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
> Error of opinion may be tolerated where reason is left free to combat it.
> -- Thomas Jefferson
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 11:07 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] T4 on new schematic
>
> > Yes... it would be helpful if I actually asked a question, wouldn't it?
> >
> > Arghhhh... long day.
> >
> > My question is the connection from T5 (new) to T4. In the old schematic,
> > it looks like T6.4 (old label) goes to T5.4.5 and T5.1 goes to "C". In
> > the new schematic, T5.4 goes to T4.1 and T4.4.5 goes to "C" - I just
> > want to confirm this is correct - and am wondering why it is that way
> > now.
> >
> > Started the VFO tonight - that's a good thing. ;) Hope to hear it
> > oscillating tomorrow evening sometime.
> >
> > 73 de John, N1QO
> >
> > "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > >
> > > At 08:59 PM 10/17/01 -0400, you wrote:
> > > >Gang,
> > > >
> > > >I have a question about T4 on the new schematic (labeled T5 on the
> old).
> > > >I searched the archives and didn't find this mentioned, appologies if
> > > >we've already covered it.
> > > >
> > > >All was all set to write up a description of what's different, but it's
> > > >just too confusing. Can someone help out with a description of the
> > > >changes (and confirm that the new schematic is indeed correct)?
> > > >
> > > >Thanks.
> > > >
> > > >73 de John, N1QO
> > >
> > > John,
> > >
> > > What's the question?
> > >
> > > 72,
> > >
> > > Jim, K8IQY
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> > --
> > John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> > Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 02:24 PM 10/18/01 +0000, Tom, KC0GXX wrote:
>Jim:
Greetings Tom,
>Forgive me for asking some dumb questions,
The only dumb questions are the ones that don't get asked. I
didn't invent that saying, but wish I had.
> I will start winding and setting the T4 and T5 trifilars tonite/tomorrow
> (x fingers) and have some misunderstandings.
>****Someone else said*******
>
> >>it looks like T6.4 (old label) goes to T5.4.5 and T5.1 goes to "C".
>
>*******MY QUESTION*******
>
>Does T6.4 mean "the winding that corresponds to #4 on T6"?
That's John's nomenclature for pin 4 on transformer T6. He
is referencing the pinouts shown on the old and new schematics.
>OK then what does "T5.4.5 mean? Does it mean "the winding that corresponds
>to #4 AND 5 on T5?"
The windings secondarily, but more importantly, pins 4 and 5, which are the two
leads that get tied together, on transformer T5.
>Can I find the "newer schematics" online on your web page
>(http://www.qsl.net/k8iqy/2n2sche.html) or at yahoogroups.com?
The newer schematics are only on the Yahoo web pages. I haven't
had the time to update the K8IQY web page with all of the changes
incorporated in the newer schematics.
>BTW, I did NOT incorporate the new DBM design, but I did include the 10dB
>20dB S1 circuit.... Did I screw things up?
No, the rig will work with either the older, switchable gain (+10, +20 dB)
RF Amplifier, or the newer Norton design, which is lower noise,
and fixed gain of 12 dB.
>Thanks again for your enduring patience for us newbies. This is REALLY
>getting quite fun and therapeutic.. :)
Happy to provide the Elmering to all. I'm delighted there is so
much interest in the rig again. Glad that you are having fun,
and hopefully, learning a bit too.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 10:57 AM 10/18/01 -0400, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>Hi guys -
>Know I am confused. What is the old schematic and what is the new
>schematic.
Lee.....I've posted to the Yahoo web pages several updates of
the rig design beyond the newer VBW filter circuitry.
> I have the bound version of the article with all the great
>drawings in it. Is there something more recent aside from the VBW filter
>change?
Yes, specifically, a completely new set of schematics which show
a newer RF amplifier design, revised wiring for the receive DBM,
minor updates to the VFO design with changes in the schematic
so it easier to understand and build, a revised post-mixer
amplifier, and the updated VBW filter circuitry. In addition,
I also put in the 2N7000 based audio mute circuitry and the
RIT circuitry, so those don't look like addons, as the were
in the original documentation.
The newer set of schematics has new designators for the parts,
since there were so many changes. I know that may cause some
confusion, but it was the only way it could be done in a reasonable
manner.
As a builder, you can build the original configuration, the latest
configuration, and anything in between. All of the variations
will work I'm sure.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Gad Zooks! Jim,
Can't seem to print off your new schematics from the Yahoo site
without truncation. Hope you get to post them to your own site soon.
72
Arth W6AGS
|
518|507|2001-10-18 12:58:57|John Wagner|Re: T4 on new schematic|Make sure you "click through" the image enough times to get it to
full-size. Then right click and "View image" (in netscape, don't know
about IE offhand). Then print just the image - should fit on an 8.5x11
piece of paper.
IOW's, try to print just the image, not the page with the image in it.
73 de John, N1QO
ags@ieee.org wrote:
>
> Gad Zooks! Jim,
>
> Can't seem to print off your new schematics from the Yahoo site
> without truncation. Hope you get to post them to your own site soon.
>
> 72
> Arth W6AGS
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comArth:
Do what I do....
Right click on the diagram/picture, then "save as" a .JPG or .BMP
Then use your favorite graphics program to load it and then print.. Works
like a champ!
Tom
>From: ags@ieee.org
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2n2-40] Re: T4 on new schematic
>Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 16:34:20 -0000
>
>Gad Zooks! Jim,
>
>Can't seem to print off your new schematics from the Yahoo site
>without truncation. Hope you get to post them to your own site soon.
>
>72
>Arth W6AGS
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspTom, John, Jim, et.al.,
The right click, save as GIF, open GIF, print works FB. 8~}
Tnx es 72,
W6AGS Arth
|
521|90|2001-10-18 14:26:31|2n2-40@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to 2n2-40 ||
522|90|2001-10-18 14:33:42|2n2-40@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to 2n2-40 ||
523|90|2001-10-18 14:40:34|2n2-40@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to 2n2-40 ||
524|90|2001-10-18 14:46:13|2n2-40@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to 2n2-40 ||
525|506|2001-10-18 15:01:34|Hubert Smits|Re: 10 turn pot-mods...|Jim,
Another question on the 10 turn pot:
>>Also, Jim said that the value of R5 might need to be slightly smaller.
>>This is because the 2K 10T pot takes an extra 2.8 mA or so of current. I
>>doubt the value of R5 will need to be changed, but if you want to try it,
>>the next lower value is 510 ohms.
>
>Well actually, to have the same current flowing through D5 and D6
>with the 2K pot being used takes a 460 Ohm for R5, so it should
>be a 470 Ohm if you want to be rigorous about it. Still not
>much of a change though from the original 560 Ohm.
Looking in the partslist I see the 10turn specified at 20K. I didn't check
the modifications (don't have the printouts here), but is 2K mentioned above
the correct value or is the 20K in the partslist correct? Which leads to my
actual question: I have 3 10turns in the junkbox, which I would like to use
for the 3 UK builders. But: the value is 50K. Can I do anything with these?
Thanks for helping me out,
Hubert
Thanks Jim for uploading the new schematics with the built in viewer.
I'd tried making good copies with my photo software, but the exe files work
great.
Now if some kind sole would also upload a revised parts list...
73 de Lee, KM4YY
While modern technology has given people powerful new communication tools,
it apparently can do nothing to alter the fact that many people have nothing
useful to say.
--Leo Gomes
|
527|506|2001-10-18 16:14:00|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 10 turn pot-mods...|At 08:01 PM 10/18/01 +0100, Hubert Smits wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Another question on the 10 turn pot:
>
>
>-snip-
>
>Looking in the partslist I see the 10 turn specified at 20K.
Yes Hubert, the parts list value is 20K, and there have been
no changes to that. The 2K pot came up when one of the group
members found about 20 10-turn pots that were 2K, and wanted to
know if they could be used. They will work fine, with some
simple changes to the voltage supply circuitry, which is the
info you referenced, and I snipped off.
> I didn't check
>the modifications (don't have the printouts here), but is 2K mentioned above
>the correct value or is the 20K in the partslist correct?
20K from the parts list, unless you don't have that value.
>Which leads to my
>actual question: I have 3 10turns in the junkbox, which I would like to use
>for the 3 UK builders. But: the value is 50K. Can I do anything with these?
Sure! Use them the same as you would the 20K unit. No changes required
as it will draw less current than the original 20K. The parallel
resistor across the pot will have to change, but you can find that
value experimentally. When you have the rig built and working and
setup for 100 KHz of band coverage, from 7.000 to 7.100 MHz, put the
pot at 5 turns, and find the value of resistor that puts the rig
on 7.050 MHz. That pretty much linearizes the tuning, and puts
7.040 and 7.050 right on the money if you use a calibrated dial
assembly too.
>Thanks for helping me out,
Glad that I can.......
Now, off to spinning class to burn some extra calories from sitting
at the computer most of the day! :-)
72 and GL to you and the rest of the Brits building the rig,
Jim, K8IQY
Spinning class???
Children who know how to think for themselves spoil the harmony of the
collective society which is coming where everyone is interdependent.
--John Dewey, 1899
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 4:13 PM
Subject: RE: [2n2-40] RE: 10 turn pot-mods...
> At 08:01 PM 10/18/01 +0100, Hubert Smits wrote:
> >Jim,
> >
> >Another question on the 10 turn pot:
> >
> >
> >-snip-
> >
> >Looking in the partslist I see the 10 turn specified at 20K.
>
> Yes Hubert, the parts list value is 20K, and there have been
> no changes to that. The 2K pot came up when one of the group
> members found about 20 10-turn pots that were 2K, and wanted to
> know if they could be used. They will work fine, with some
> simple changes to the voltage supply circuitry, which is the
> info you referenced, and I snipped off.
>
> > I didn't check
> >the modifications (don't have the printouts here), but is 2K mentioned
above
> >the correct value or is the 20K in the partslist correct?
>
> 20K from the parts list, unless you don't have that value.
>
> >Which leads to my
> >actual question: I have 3 10turns in the junkbox, which I would like to
use
> >for the 3 UK builders. But: the value is 50K. Can I do anything with
these?
>
> Sure! Use them the same as you would the 20K unit. No changes required
> as it will draw less current than the original 20K. The parallel
> resistor across the pot will have to change, but you can find that
> value experimentally. When you have the rig built and working and
> setup for 100 KHz of band coverage, from 7.000 to 7.100 MHz, put the
> pot at 5 turns, and find the value of resistor that puts the rig
> on 7.050 MHz. That pretty much linearizes the tuning, and puts
> 7.040 and 7.050 right on the money if you use a calibrated dial
> assembly too.
>
>
> >Thanks for helping me out,
>
> Glad that I can.......
>
> Now, off to spinning class to burn some extra calories from sitting
> at the computer most of the day! :-)
>
> 72 and GL to you and the rest of the Brits building the rig,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Group-
Time to make the "clean-up" parts buy. The only part I've identified
so far that needs to be picked up is the 100 uH inductor that Jim
used in his upgraded circuits. He used three of them. So far I have
been contacted by the following guys who wanted to participate-
KC5HAC
K4TJD
KB3ETI
WA0RSE
KM4YY
WB8ICN
N2GVS
Let me know if you want in or out of the group. Also, if there are
any parts which we might have missed in the previous buys that might
lend themselves to a "group" type of buy, let me know.
--Cam N6GA
|
530|90|2001-10-19 08:25:33|2n2-40@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to 2n2-40 ||
531|90|2001-10-19 08:25:43|2n2-40@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to 2n2-40 ||
532|90|2001-10-19 08:26:41|2n2-40@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to 2n2-40 ||
533|90|2001-10-19 08:27:56|2n2-40@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to 2n2-40 ||
534|510|2001-10-19 08:48:50|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Update on 2N2-40|At 04:52 AM 10/18/01 +0100, Tom, KC0GXX wrote:
>I just finished my last solder point on the 3d stage tonite, time to QRT.
>Even had time for a few nice QSO's with a KD4 and a W8. I will wind the
>dreaded T4 and T5 trifilar's tomorrow.
They're not dreaded Tom. Take your time and those transformers
will come out fine.
>Did I see where there was a controversary as to where the leads were wired?
Not really a controvesry per se, but I did rearrange the connections
to the receive DBM and Product Detector to make them work as designed.
>I am using for all practical purposes the older QRPp "book" I got in the
>mail. Very nice. I m also using the updates available on the website, and
>have access to the "newer" schematics.
Use the newer schematics for at least those connections mentioned above.
I've just posted PDF versions of the latest schematics on the Yahoo
page too. Emails went out automatically announcing those too.
>Actually, the bifilar (T3) in the RF amp wasn't too bad. Checked for
>continuity and shorts, everything OK. Wired 'er right up. Kinda fun. I used
>#30 enamel I found in my junk box, will also use it for the trifilars if ok
>(?)
Yep......#30 will work great, and easier to wind than say 3 strands
of #26 or #24. Those get impossible!
-snip-
>BTW, does anyone else get the heebie-jeebies when they first power up
>something like this? I almost am afraid to try it, for fear of
>failure....... :(
Not fear of failure, but I still get goose bumps when I light off
a new project. That's what has kept me doing this stuff since 1957.
It's better than dope, and no side effects. The cost is lower too.
72 and I hope nobody takes offense at the dope reference,
Jim, K8IQY
I'd like to buy all of the resistors in one fell swoop.
Lee, KM4YY
Those who desire to give up Freedom in order to gain Security, will not
have,
nor do they deserve, either one.
--Thomas Jefferson
----- Original Message -----
From: <camqrp@cyberg8t.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2001 12:22 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Parts Clean-Up
> Group-
>
> Time to make the "clean-up" parts buy. The only part I've identified
> so far that needs to be picked up is the 100 uH inductor that Jim
> used in his upgraded circuits. He used three of them. So far I have
> been contacted by the following guys who wanted to participate-
>
> KC5HAC
> K4TJD
> KB3ETI
> WA0RSE
> KM4YY
> WB8ICN
> N2GVS
>
> Let me know if you want in or out of the group. Also, if there are
> any parts which we might have missed in the previous buys that might
> lend themselves to a "group" type of buy, let me know.
>
> --Cam N6GA
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I have a couple air wound coils that I pulled off an old radio, TV or
something...just measured them, and one of them says 106 uH...would that
work?
----- Original Message -----
From: <camqrp@cyberg8t.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 9:22 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Parts Clean-Up
> Group-
>
> Time to make the "clean-up" parts buy. The only part I've identified
> so far that needs to be picked up is the 100 uH inductor that Jim
> used in his upgraded circuits. He used three of them. So far I have
> been contacted by the following guys who wanted to participate-
>
> KC5HAC
> K4TJD
> KB3ETI
> WA0RSE
> KM4YY
> WB8ICN
> N2GVS
>
> Let me know if you want in or out of the group. Also, if there are
> any parts which we might have missed in the previous buys that might
> lend themselves to a "group" type of buy, let me know.
>
> --Cam N6GA
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
How about substituting a 420 pF cap and approx. 200 pF trimmer in place of
C8, C13, and TC4?
Delbert Long, AD6WE
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspGot the VFO finished last night. Wasn't working too well though - I
think there's a conspiracy amongst potentiometer manufacturers to
confuse me.
After figuring out which pin was which on the tuning pot, the vfo
started to work as expected. I'm tuning from 2.085 to 2.170, which seems
a little short. I'm not too worried about anything above 7.060, so it's
not that big a deal.
The question I have is this; at the low end of the range I'm getting
about 1.5v peak-to-peak, while at the top end I'm getting about 2.5v
peak-to-peak. Is this normal? The QRPp book says around 3v is normal.
Any thoughts on this?
I'll post pics of the radio and o'scope later, maybe tomorrow.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThanks, John...that is really nice!
Your's looks SO much prettier than mine...
Haven't got all the parts yet - I ordered the caps late, but wanted to get
started, so I am scrounging around and putting things together as I can find
them.
One thing I never thought of and it looks like a good idea...you are gluing
the pads as you build instead of ahead of time. Glue - Melt - Snort - Glue
- Melt - Snort...etc...(Sorry.)
Thanks for the pictures - that's really cool. I'll take some shots of mine
next week.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
Grid Square DM13av
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
It ain't over 'till it's over. - Yogi Berra
God Bless Us, Everyone. - Tiny Tim
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 09:53 AM 10/19/2001 -0700, Delbert Long wrote:
>I have a couple air wound coils that I pulled off an old radio, TV or
>something...just measured them, and one of them says 106 uH...would that
>work?
Yes, but they will be much larger than a common molded choke, and
may take up far too much room on the board. Other than that, they
will probably work fine.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 06:13 PM 10/19/2001 +0000, Delbert Long, AD6WE wrote:
>How about substituting a 420 pF cap and approx. 200 pF trimmer in place of
>C8, C13, and TC4?
No! If you look at the the schematic carefully, you'll notice that
one of those capacitors is a polystyrene, with a negative tempco,
and an NPO along with the trimmer. Those were selected to offset
the positive tempco of the VFO toroid. If you don't use those parts,
the VFO will drift terribly.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 06:45 PM 10/19/2001 -0400, John, N1QO wrote:
>Got the VFO finished last night. Wasn't working too well though - I
>think there's a conspiracy amongst potentiometer manufacturers to
>confuse me.
>
>After figuring out which pin was which on the tuning pot, the vfo
>started to work as expected. I'm tuning from 2.085 to 2.170, which seems
>a little short. I'm not too worried about anything above 7.060, so it's
>not that big a deal.
Did you include TC3? If not, a small amount of capacitance
added in parallel with the capacitor TC3 goes across will increase
the tuning range.
>
>The question I have is this; at the low end of the range I'm getting
>about 1.5v peak-to-peak, while at the top end I'm getting about 2.5v
>peak-to-peak. Is this normal? The QRPp book says around 3v is normal.
>Any thoughts on this?
There is some variation from end to end, but I'm not at home
where my docs are, so don't remember the variation. It sounds
a bit too wide, but maybe OK. Does the signal peak anywhere
in that range?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> Did you include TC3? If not, a small amount of capacitance
> added in parallel with the capacitor TC3 goes across will increase
> the tuning range.
I used a 3-10pf trimmer - have to try fiddling with that.
> >The question I have is this; at the low end of the range I'm getting
> >about 1.5v peak-to-peak, while at the top end I'm getting about 2.5v
> >peak-to-peak. Is this normal? The QRPp book says around 3v is normal.
> >Any thoughts on this?
>
> There is some variation from end to end, but I'm not at home
> where my docs are, so don't remember the variation. It sounds
> a bit too wide, but maybe OK. Does the signal peak anywhere
> in that range?
It peaks at the top end, when the POT is all the way clockwise.
73 de John, N1QO
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comMade some changes this afternoon;
John Wagner wrote:
>
> "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> >
> > Did you include TC3? If not, a small amount of capacitance
> > added in parallel with the capacitor TC3 goes across will increase
> > the tuning range.
>
> I used a 3-10pf trimmer - have to try fiddling with that.
It's now a 22pf NPO cap - I have the full 100hz tuning range now.
> > >The question I have is this; at the low end of the range I'm getting
> > >about 1.5v peak-to-peak, while at the top end I'm getting about 2.5v
> > >peak-to-peak. Is this normal? The QRPp book says around 3v is normal.
> > >Any thoughts on this?
> >
> > There is some variation from end to end, but I'm not at home
> > where my docs are, so don't remember the variation. It sounds
> > a bit too wide, but maybe OK. Does the signal peak anywhere
> > in that range?
This is now 1.5v -> 3.0v p2p.
73 de John, N1QO
>
> It peaks at the top end, when the POT is all the way clockwise.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi Gang,
Well, after lots of tuning, fiddling, etc and still not happy with the way it was working out (my error I'm sure), I decided to start from scratch again. But with one MAJOR difference.. I decided to use the NJQRP Islander Cutter to cut the pads in the boards! So, I guess this will be a "test case" for a major construction project using the cutter (at least for me it will). It will be a "hybrid" also (will use long strips for the finals and maybe in a couple of other places) using some "traditional" pads as well.
I am using seperate boards for each "sequence" and will connect them up later on in a jigsaw type manner using solder wick to "cement" the joints. I finished up the RX/TX Driver this morning, got the VFO board islands cut, and will populate it and test it tonite. I will post a couple of pics when I get them done! Wish me luck!!!!
72 Dennis
|
547|547|2001-10-22 03:03:45|wb0wao@yahoo.com|Lookin' Good!!|Well Gang,
Finished up the VFO a la Islander style and it works better than my first attempt, hi hi. Got 80 kc of swing, real linear according to the freq counter. Also seems a bit more stable since the component leads are shorter on most components. Took some pics and will post them Monday nite when I go to work.
Now the next step, the dreaded Front End (j/k)! I will start on the layout this week and try and get it up and running this weekend! Gonna try to play a little in CQWW as well. More later!!!!
Dennis
|
548|547|2001-10-22 08:40:26|John Wagner|Re: Lookin' Good!!|Nice going Dennis!
Pictures please!!!
Do you have an o'scope? I'm curious to know what your power is on the
secondary of T5 on the bottom and top end. I'm also curious whether or
not it is linear or not.
73 de John, N1QO
wb0wao@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Well Gang,
> Finished up the VFO a la Islander style and it works better than my first attempt, hi hi. Got 80 kc of swing, real linear according to the freq counter. Also seems a bit more stable since the component leads are shorter on most components. Took some pics and will post them Monday nite when I go to work.
> Now the next step, the dreaded Front End (j/k)! I will start on the layout this week and try and get it up and running this weekend! Gonna try to play a little in CQWW as well. More later!!!!
>
> Dennis
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comOK...I got a similar reply from someone else...I guess I will wait until my
cap kit arrives to continue, unless I can scrounge up the correct types and
values!!!
Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
Grid Square DM13av
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
It ain't over 'till it's over. - Yogi Berra
God Bless Us, Everyone. - Tiny Tim
>From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Capacitors/Trimmers
>Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 14:18:16 +0100
>
>At 06:13 PM 10/19/2001 +0000, Delbert Long, AD6WE wrote:
> >How about substituting a 420 pF cap and approx. 200 pF trimmer in place
>of
> >C8, C13, and TC4?
>
>No! If you look at the the schematic carefully, you'll notice that
>one of those capacitors is a polystyrene, with a negative tempco,
>and an NPO along with the trimmer. Those were selected to offset
>the positive tempco of the VFO toroid. If you don't use those parts,
>the VFO will drift terribly.
>
>72,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspHi Jim and 2N2/40 Gang,
I must admit, that when I first looked at the original schematic back
when I started the build of ol' #16, I wondered about driving the
centertap of T4...but never asked. It seemed to work just great as I
was not perceiving any unwanted products...and stuff. Now that I've
made the changes to both the DBM and product detector, it still works
great and I get the warm and fuzzies knowing that my DBM is, indeed,
balanced.
With the reduced gain in the IF amp, it has stopped self oscillating
and the sidetone has a much more pleasant sound at the cost of some
gain. But with a good antenna, I think the audio level and s/n will be
more than acceptable. I wonder if I can undue the IF amp mod to
reclaim the gain without self oscillation now that there are no
unwanted products from the VFO?
The keying pops (on down) and thumps (on up) are still persistant
though. I installed 22uF at both the gate of the 2N7000 and a central
node where Tx was available. That seems to be a double edge sword as
increasing capacitance will prolong both rise and fall times...What I
gained on pop I seemed to lose on thump. So I removed the 22uF from
the Tx node. Now the pops and thumps are worse so I stopped there to
continue on another day. Interestingly, I thought 8~}, the pops and
thumps are persistant even when the audio gain is turned all the way
down. Any thoughts?
My next attempt will be to rebuild the mixer and RF amps with the
new mods as soon as I can get hold of some 100uF chokes and 2v LEDs.
Then reevaluate the keying anomalies.
Although I am getting anxious to put ol' #16 into service, this is
still a great project which is getting even better due to all the new
interest. Believe me, gang, it is well worth the effort to complete
this rig. Jim is a master designer. Doug Preston even said that he
would resume granting certificates for first qsos on ones own
homebrewed 2N2/40. Sorry Doug for letting that cat out of the bag.
72/73
Arth W6AGS
|
551|551|2001-10-22 17:23:54|Wes Clopton|Flying High|Im buzzing along gluing, soldering and showing progress. I threw
the first attempt away, that had gotten thru the "FRONT END" but
the whole thing was ugly. But it was a learning experience.
1. found that a 12" miter saw (electric table saw) does a
great job cutting square PC boards.
2. the gel super glue works the best for me. found little tubes
of it in the autoparts store.."Permatex super glue gel"
Im going for the new 2n2-40 plus rig, so Im having to change components
location
as I go.. so far rx/tx switch works....vfo works....audio section works...
expect I cant
find pinout of a 2n7000 fet...NEED A HINT PLEASE....drain--source---gate..
as soon as i get those, Ill finish up the audio mute
John...You want VFO Peak to Peak into 50 ohm full range measurements.
Im going to do that tonight..
W3ERU WES
...
|
552|551|2001-10-22 18:14:33|Delbert Long|Re: Flying High|----- Original Message -----
From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@arrl.net>
To: <2N2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 2:23 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Flying High
I threw
> the first attempt away, that had gotten thru the "FRONT END" but
> the whole thing was ugly. But it was a learning
Mine looks ugly too...as I go along I hope that it will look a little less
ugly stage by stage, until the last stage looks like Rembrandt, while the
first looks like Picasso. If it works I will be delighted!
Del, AD6WE
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Delbert Long"
wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wes Clopton"
> To: <2N2-40@y...>
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 2:23 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Flying High
>
>
> I threw
> > the first attempt away, that had gotten thru the "FRONT END" but
> > the whole thing was ugly. But it was a learning
>
>
> Mine looks ugly too...as I go along I hope that it will look a
little less
> ugly stage by stage, until the last stage looks like Rembrandt,
while the
> first looks like Picasso. If it works I will be delighted!
>
> Del, AD6WE
Would you believe Salvadore Dali?14 turns on a FT37-43 makes just about 100 uH...
Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
Grid Square DM13av
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
It ain't over 'till it's over. - Yogi Berra
God Bless Us, Everyone. - Tiny Tim
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspDel....good to know!!
Thanks!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Delbert Long" <AD6WE@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Parts Clean-Up
>
>
>
> 14 turns on a FT37-43 makes just about 100 uH...
>
>
>
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
> 2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
> Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
> Grid Square DM13av
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
> It ain't over 'till it's over. - Yogi Berra
>
> God Bless Us, Everyone. - Tiny Tim
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Im going to use a 50 ohm resister across the sec of T5 with a o-scope.
Send you the results tomorrow.
.At 09:06 PM 10/22/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Wes Clopton wrote:
> >
> >
> > John...You want VFO Peak to Peak into 50 ohm full range measurements.
> > Im going to do that tonight..
>
>Indeed, I do. I wasn't running mine into a load though, just measured it
>bare. I'm interested in the p2p voltage across the tuning range.
>
>73 de John, N1QO
>
> >
> > W3ERU WES
> >
> > ...
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>--
>John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
>Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hey Gang,
I uploaded a couple of pics tonite. One is just the VFO section and
the other is what I have got done so far, the first two sections.
John, I don't have an o-scope - sorry :-( I checked the "linearity"
by hooking up the freq counter and watching the display as I dialed
thru the VFO at a constant speed, the frequency seemed to go up at a
pretty even rate. Not scientific I know, but it gave me some
indication of where things are at :-) As far as stability goes, I
think it is a bit better, would love to have the equipment to check it
out the right way, but I'm kinda guessing a bit about it. Maybe Jim
can address that issue. I will run a small experiment tomorrow on it
to check drift. Hook it up and let it run for about 30 minutes and
see if the frequency drifts any and how much. Kinda fun playing with
it :-) Im wondering about that since most of the "critical"
components are pretty bunched up right now around L1 and am curious to
find out if that is a good thing or a bad thing..hi hi.
Oh, and incidently, when I made the initial measurments I DID have
the RIT circut hooked up as well. I remember Jim saying that when it
is hooked up to the VFO, the freq will drop a bit.
72 es onward and upward
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
559|559|2001-10-22 23:55:50|tdufres@hotmail.com|Stage 3-DONE!!!! (long)|Wow! I am so stoked. I wound the last trifiliar toroid last nite,
hooked 'er in just a few hours ago. I rechecked the VFO (check), Set
it to 2.135mHz, turned it off. Then I hooked up the 20-10dB switch a
la QRPp article, then wired in the RF gain, also a la QRPp article.
(BTW, that wirebound version is very nice, if you haven't a chance to
get it yet)
TIME TO TEST!!!!!!
Got out my HW-8, found 7.050mHz and locked it in, switched it off. I
then fired up the Rat Shack DX-398 RCVR at 4.915mHz. I checked all
connections to antenna leads, ground leads, and then re-checked.
Check instructions...
I was trembling by now. Do you old homebrewers "smell what I am laying
down?" (A la The Rock, pro-wrestler-it means "do you get my drift?")
OK, here goes.. Power to vfo and front end. No smoke, thats a plus...
Wait!! I hear something, It sounds like a "praise the Lord
station"....Maybe just a strong AM station.
OK OK Hit the key. Nothing!!! oh oh, what now!?!?! Lets see, power,
antenna, dummy load, HW-8......OOPS!!! I forgot to turn it back
on!!!! Ok ok...... on it goes.... here's the key again....
HOOOOO-RAH!!! Thats me!!!!!! IT WORKS!!!! Its kinda faint, but
thats me..I can tune it by tuning the VFO a bit and its better, a
good 700-800 hz tone.
Wait, what did they say about the variable caps, TC1 and TC2???
OHHHH, I have to adjust those?!?!?! OK OK where's the do-hickey..
Wow, I'm really trembling now... hehe, This is supposed to be
relaxing!
Wow!! Its getting _way_ stronger... now my wife says "whats that
noise?? I can't hear O'Reilly!!!".
COOOL!!!! IT IS A-L-I-V-E!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ok ok, happy dance time...!!!!
Whew.. OK, gotta catch my breath.... OK OK What now? It says connect
the antenna to a 40 meter antenna and you should be able to tune in
the 7 meter CW band... OK OK, gotta lug all the stuff back to the
shack.... Take care now, wouldn't want a short now... I gotta get one
of those "no-shorts me lady " things wired up to my power supply so
I won't fry this thing on a test....
OK...... Back at the shack now, wife is now reading Free Republic on
the 'puter, looks pretty serious, gotta be quiet.. Here is the
antenna, now the ground from battery, now the power- WHATS THAT
SOUND!!!!!! ITS C-O-D-E!!!! and its coming from the
Radio shack DX-398.
Hey, it never sounded so good either.. OK OK Almost forgot my code..
There's a "CQ"!!.. Whats his call?!?!?! I can't copy. I forgot
code!! No no,. the old brain kicks in-- here it is.."CQ CQ DE K9TJL"
Wow! he's blowing my doors off..he should, he's in Illinois. (I am in
Nebraska) Well, lets see if this old RF gain works... Hm, down she
goes. Isn't "right" to increase gain? I turn right (clockwise) and
it goes down.. How does that happen?? Oh well, details..
"Listen babe!!! Thats for real CW!" (She (the babe-AKA as the XYL)
is not impressed, I am ecstatic....)
What about the dB switch... ok on-off-on..., yup, I notice the
difference. Slight, but its there..
Well, I guess I should try to tune, huh? heheheh She works like a
champ. Of course I knew it would (yeah right!) BTW, I guess I should
apologise to the XYL for yelling her off her chair. She doesn't seem
to share my excitement... Why IS that?!?! (grin)
Well, gotta get a few more stations for fun, wow. Hey!, theres a N5,
that guy is WAAY too fast for this old newbie's ears. Hey, there's a
Spanish speaking amigo, must be getting some SB too....This is too
fun! whoa, did I hear a "LU" station?!??! What is that? Argentina?
HOOOO RAHH!!
(sigh)
Well, guess thats about it. (stunning underestimation)
I really was happy when this one fired up. Those trifilars were a
kick. Now, whats next.. Lets see, oh, Stage four, the filter, mixer,
and IF amp. HMM, seem to remember a new filter design. Not too bad,
T8 is a bifilar-no sweat. (grin) T7 is a transformer...Piece of cake
(bigger grin)
I'll have to worry about that one another day. I can't go to bed, I'm
too excited, can't work anymore, I'm worn out with happy dancing, but
I'll check it out tomorrow when I come down from the high.
What a trip.
Stage four, here it comes. Thanks for reading all my ranting.....QRP
IS fun radio, and doubly fun when its HMBRU.
72
Tom
KC0GXX
|
560|559|2001-10-23 07:18:46|Brian Murrey|Re: Stage 3-DONE!!!! (long)|Yeah but Tom....how do you really feel?
73
----- Original Message -----
From: <tdufres@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 10:55 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Stage 3-DONE!!!! (long)
> Wow! I am so stoked. I wound the last trifiliar toroid last nite,
> hooked 'er in just a few hours ago. I rechecked the VFO (check), Set
> it to 2.135mHz, turned it off. Then I hooked up the 20-10dB switch a
> la QRPp article, then wired in the RF gain, also a la QRPp article.
> (BTW, that wirebound version is very nice, if you haven't a chance to
> get it yet)
>
> TIME TO TEST!!!!!!
>
> Got out my HW-8, found 7.050mHz and locked it in, switched it off. I
> then fired up the Rat Shack DX-398 RCVR at 4.915mHz. I checked all
> connections to antenna leads, ground leads, and then re-checked.
> Check instructions...
>
> I was trembling by now. Do you old homebrewers "smell what I am laying
> down?" (A la The Rock, pro-wrestler-it means "do you get my drift?")
>
> OK, here goes.. Power to vfo and front end. No smoke, thats a plus...
> Wait!! I hear something, It sounds like a "praise the Lord
> station"....Maybe just a strong AM station.
>
> OK OK Hit the key. Nothing!!! oh oh, what now!?!?! Lets see, power,
> antenna, dummy load, HW-8......OOPS!!! I forgot to turn it back
> on!!!! Ok ok...... on it goes.... here's the key again....
>
> HOOOOO-RAH!!! Thats me!!!!!! IT WORKS!!!! Its kinda faint, but
> thats me..I can tune it by tuning the VFO a bit and its better, a
> good 700-800 hz tone.
>
> Wait, what did they say about the variable caps, TC1 and TC2???
> OHHHH, I have to adjust those?!?!?! OK OK where's the do-hickey..
> Wow, I'm really trembling now... hehe, This is supposed to be
> relaxing!
>
> Wow!! Its getting _way_ stronger... now my wife says "whats that
> noise?? I can't hear O'Reilly!!!".
> COOOL!!!! IT IS A-L-I-V-E!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Ok ok, happy dance time...!!!!
>
> Whew.. OK, gotta catch my breath.... OK OK What now? It says connect
> the antenna to a 40 meter antenna and you should be able to tune in
> the 7 meter CW band... OK OK, gotta lug all the stuff back to the
> shack.... Take care now, wouldn't want a short now... I gotta get one
> of those "no-shorts me lady " things wired up to my power supply so
> I won't fry this thing on a test....
>
> OK...... Back at the shack now, wife is now reading Free Republic on
> the 'puter, looks pretty serious, gotta be quiet.. Here is the
> antenna, now the ground from battery, now the power- WHATS THAT
> SOUND!!!!!! ITS C-O-D-E!!!! and its coming from the
> Radio shack DX-398.
>
> Hey, it never sounded so good either.. OK OK Almost forgot my code..
> There's a "CQ"!!.. Whats his call?!?!?! I can't copy. I forgot
> code!! No no,. the old brain kicks in-- here it is.."CQ CQ DE K9TJL"
> Wow! he's blowing my doors off..he should, he's in Illinois. (I am in
> Nebraska) Well, lets see if this old RF gain works... Hm, down she
> goes. Isn't "right" to increase gain? I turn right (clockwise) and
> it goes down.. How does that happen?? Oh well, details..
>
> "Listen babe!!! Thats for real CW!" (She (the babe-AKA as the XYL)
> is not impressed, I am ecstatic....)
>
> What about the dB switch... ok on-off-on..., yup, I notice the
> difference. Slight, but its there..
>
> Well, I guess I should try to tune, huh? heheheh She works like a
> champ. Of course I knew it would (yeah right!) BTW, I guess I should
> apologise to the XYL for yelling her off her chair. She doesn't seem
> to share my excitement... Why IS that?!?! (grin)
>
> Well, gotta get a few more stations for fun, wow. Hey!, theres a N5,
> that guy is WAAY too fast for this old newbie's ears. Hey, there's a
> Spanish speaking amigo, must be getting some SB too....This is too
> fun! whoa, did I hear a "LU" station?!??! What is that? Argentina?
> HOOOO RAHH!!
>
> (sigh)
>
> Well, guess thats about it. (stunning underestimation)
>
> I really was happy when this one fired up. Those trifilars were a
> kick. Now, whats next.. Lets see, oh, Stage four, the filter, mixer,
> and IF amp. HMM, seem to remember a new filter design. Not too bad,
> T8 is a bifilar-no sweat. (grin) T7 is a transformer...Piece of cake
> (bigger grin)
>
> I'll have to worry about that one another day. I can't go to bed, I'm
> too excited, can't work anymore, I'm worn out with happy dancing, but
> I'll check it out tomorrow when I come down from the high.
>
> What a trip.
> Stage four, here it comes. Thanks for reading all my ranting.....QRP
> IS fun radio, and doubly fun when its HMBRU.
> 72
> Tom
> KC0GXX
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hey Gang,
Just got done "testing" the VFO section and these are my results. Remember VERY limited test gear here, Freq Counter and DVM is about it... :-)
Drift Test... Powered up the VFO section and checked the frequency at midpoint. Let it run for about 20 - 25 minutes and checked freq again. Was within 1 kHz of where it was before. Freq counter is the Radio shack one at the 64ms setting. Resolution is 1 kHz, so it could have been a bit more or less 1kHz.
Tuning Linearity... After I did above, I ran down to the bottom of the dial and slowly tuned up the band. Pretty much linear but did notice at the top of the band, it was just slightly "faster" in tuning. That may be just the 10 turn pot I have too.
All in all, I'm very happy with it! I think it will work just fine for me...
72
Dennis
|
562|529|2001-10-23 11:40:55|ags@ieee.org|Re: Parts Clean-Up|I remember a thread discussing molded versus toroidal wound chokes.
The conclusion was that toroidally wound chokes would yield too high a
Q for the application....
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Brian Murrey" wrote:
> Del....good to know!!
>
> Thanks!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Delbert Long"
> To: <2n2-40@y...>
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 8:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Parts Clean-Up
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > 14 turns on a FT37-43 makes just about 100 uH...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Delbert Long, AD6WE
> > 2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
> > Fullerton, CA 92833-4912
> > Grid Square DM13av
> >
> > Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.
- Albert
> > Einstein
> >
> > It ain't over 'till it's over. - Yogi Berra
> >
> > God Bless Us, Everyone. - Tiny Tim
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
This morning I shipped the last of the 14 sets of 10-turn pots and
counter dials. Thanks to all who participated. Regretably there were
more people interested than available parts. But then, this Saturday
is another swap meet, so you never know... I'll be looking for more.
Mike Schettler WA6MER
|
564|529|2001-10-23 12:26:04|Delbert Long|Re: Parts Clean-Up|That's good to know...I'm getting an idea that doing it over with shorter
leads might not be a bad idea, either...although I didn't want to start
again. I do have a board with a lot of molded chokes that I could pull
off...I think there's at least three 100 uH...
Jim, what's your opinion on molded vs. wound chokes? Thanks...
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspMike,
Thanks for helping with the parts. Mine arrived in FB shape.
-MAC-
AF4PS
In a message dated 10/23/2001 12:06:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Mike.Schettler@trw.com writes:
> This morning I shipped the last of the 14 sets of 10-turn pots and
> counter dials. Thanks to all who participated. Regretably there were
> more people interested than available parts. But then, this Saturday
> is another swap meet, so you never know... I'll be looking for more.
>
> Mike Schettler WA6MER
Gang,
I just uploaded a scope plot showing the VFO signal as it looks
driving the receive DBM. I don't see much variation from end-to-end
in the tuning, almost flat with maybe a few millivolts change as
the frequency is moved. There is also a .pdf version of this
plot in the files area of the 2N2-40 Yahoo site, for those who
don't want to load the larger .jpg image.
72 and I hope this helps those who have questions about the output
level and stability with VFO tuning.
Jim, K8IQY
|
568|529|2001-10-23 13:20:01|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Parts Clean-Up|At 04:26 PM 10/23/01 +0000, you wrote:
>That's good to know...I'm getting an idea that doing it over with shorter
>leads might not be a bad idea, either...although I didn't want to start
>again. I do have a board with a lot of molded chokes that I could pull
>off...I think there's at least three 100 uH...
>
>Jim, what's your opinion on molded vs. wound chokes? Thanks...
I prefer the molded chokes when Q isn't an issue, as it often is when
the choke is being used as an rf choke or collector load in various
amplifier stages. The molded chokes have Qs on the order of 70, where
a wound toroid will often have a Q 2X to 3X that. If the Q gets too
high, one often has to parallel a toroid choke with a resistor to
bring the Q down, and get some loss back into the circuit, for
stability. A toroid choke will also be much larger in size than
a typical miniature molded choke.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
OK, Thanks Joe...
Like most good hams, Im not satisfied unless I poke, sniff and
take it apart
just to see how it works. Building something is half the fun, making it
work and understanding it is the other half. Then I love to make changes..
On my way out to my shop/lab now to compare my VFO to yours...
giggle giggle...this is fun..
Wes
At 01:13 PM 10/23/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>I just uploaded a scope plot showing the VFO signal as it looks
>driving the receive DBM. I don't see much variation from end-to-end
>in the tuning, almost flat with maybe a few millivolts change as
>the frequency is moved. There is also a .pdf version of this
>plot in the files area of the 2N2-40 Yahoo site, for those who
>don't want to load the larger .jpg image.
>
>72 and I hope this helps those who have questions about the output
>level and stability with VFO tuning.
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 01:56 PM 10/23/01 -0400, you wrote:
>OK, Thanks Joe...
Who is Joe??
> Like most good hams, Im not satisfied unless I poke, sniff and
>take it apart
>just to see how it works. Building something is half the fun, making it
>work and understanding it is the other half. Then I love to make changes..
> On my way out to my shop/lab now to compare my VFO to yours...
>giggle giggle...this is fun..
>
>Wes
>
> At 01:13 PM 10/23/01 -0400, you wrote:
> >Gang,
> >
> >I just uploaded a scope plot showing the VFO signal as it looks
> >driving the receive DBM. I don't see much variation from end-to-end
> >in the tuning, almost flat with maybe a few millivolts change as
> >the frequency is moved. There is also a .pdf version of this
> >plot in the files area of the 2N2-40 Yahoo site, for those who
> >don't want to load the larger .jpg image.
> >
> >72 and I hope this helps those who have questions about the output
> >level and stability with VFO tuning.
> >
> >Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
OOPS....Senior moment...Jim...In all the excitement I forget my
name sometimes too.sorry....
WesAt 03:19 PM 10/23/01 -0400, you wrote:
>At 01:56 PM 10/23/01 -0400, you wrote:
> >OK, Thanks Joe...
>
>
>Who is Joe??
>
>
> > Like most good hams, Im not satisfied unless I poke, sniff and
> >take it apart
> >just to see how it works. Building something is half the fun, making it
> >work and understanding it is the other half. Then I love to make changes..
> > On my way out to my shop/lab now to compare my VFO to yours...
> >giggle giggle...this is fun..
> >
> >Wes
> >
> > At 01:13 PM 10/23/01 -0400, you wrote:
> > >Gang,
> > >
> > >I just uploaded a scope plot showing the VFO signal as it looks
> > >driving the receive DBM. I don't see much variation from end-to-end
> > >in the tuning, almost flat with maybe a few millivolts change as
> > >the frequency is moved. There is also a .pdf version of this
> > >plot in the files area of the 2N2-40 Yahoo site, for those who
> > >don't want to load the larger .jpg image.
> > >
> > >72 and I hope this helps those who have questions about the output
> > >level and stability with VFO tuning.
> > >
> > >Jim, K8IQY
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
tdufres@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> "Listen babe!!! Thats for real CW!" (She (the babe-AKA as the XYL)
> is not impressed, I am ecstatic....)
>
Sigh, been there - we understand though Tom!!! Nice job, hope to be
there myself soon!
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com |
573|567|2001-10-23 20:48:27|John Wagner|Re: VFO output level|Jim (Joe?),
Do you see a problem with the situation that my VFO is exhibiting? The
voltage difference end to end is 1.5v, which seems quite large. I've
triple checked the parts layout against the new schematic and it's
correct - any idea how to troubleshoot it?
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> I just uploaded a scope plot showing the VFO signal as it looks
> driving the receive DBM. I don't see much variation from end-to-end
> in the tuning, almost flat with maybe a few millivolts change as
> the frequency is moved. There is also a .pdf version of this
> plot in the files area of the 2N2-40 Yahoo site, for those who
> don't want to load the larger .jpg image.
>
> 72 and I hope this helps those who have questions about the output
> level and stability with VFO tuning.
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 08:51 PM 10/23/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim (Joe?),
>
>Do you see a problem with the situation that my VFO is exhibiting? The
>voltage difference end to end is 1.5v, which seems quite large. I've
>triple checked the parts layout against the new schematic and it's
>correct - any idea how to troubleshoot it?
>
>Thanks es 73,
>
>John, N1QO
John,
My guess is that the output transformer isn't tuned correctly at
the moment. The end of the frequency range where you are getting
the larger output is probably where the primary of T6 (old) or
T5 (new) is actually tuning up. Also, if you are running the
VFO without a load, 50-100 ohms, it's output will be a lot more
"peaky" than when it is loaded, and the Q of the tuned circuit
comes way down, and the passband becomes much wider. Maybe that
is a lot of what you are seeing. I'd first try changing the
value of the tuning capacitor across the primary by adding and
subtracting capacitance to see if it is really tuned in the middle
of the VFO swing, and after that, terminate the output with a 100
ohm resistor and remeasure it. It should be much flatter with
the load resistor.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I had a similar situation when I first ran up my VFO. The C15 cap
that is specified in the schematic was to be found by trial and error
until the best output was reached. To do this I set the VFO to
center frequency and placed an air variable 365pF cap across T6. I
adjusted it, looking at the scope for max signal on the center
frequency. Then I disconnected it and measured the capacitance with
the AADE LC meter. I found a disc cap that was as close as possible
to that value and used that across T6.
Now I peak in the middle of the band and have about a 1VPP swing
across the entire band. This is under no load.
Don't remember right now (I am at work) what the value was, but it
was close to the schematic value.
Hope this helps.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 08:51 PM 10/23/01 -0400, you wrote:
> >Jim (Joe?),
> >
> >Do you see a problem with the situation that my VFO is exhibiting?
The
> >voltage difference end to end is 1.5v, which seems quite large.
I've
> >triple checked the parts layout against the new schematic and it's
> >correct - any idea how to troubleshoot it?
> >
> >Thanks es 73,
> >
> >John, N1QO
>
> John,
>
> My guess is that the output transformer isn't tuned correctly at
> the moment. The end of the frequency range where you are getting
> the larger output is probably where the primary of T6 (old) or
> T5 (new) is actually tuning up. Also, if you are running the
> VFO without a load, 50-100 ohms, it's output will be a lot more
> "peaky" than when it is loaded, and the Q of the tuned circuit
> comes way down, and the passband becomes much wider. Maybe that
> is a lot of what you are seeing. I'd first try changing the
> value of the tuning capacitor across the primary by adding and
> subtracting capacitance to see if it is really tuned in the middle
> of the VFO swing, and after that, terminate the output with a 100
> ohm resistor and remeasure it. It should be much flatter with
> the load resistor.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
I just realized that the variable capacitors weren't in the trimmer kit.
Does anybody have a good source for these?
TC3 - 3-10pf
TC4 - 8-50pf
TC1,TC2, TC5-TC8 (6) - 11-70pf
Or is Mouser the remaining hope?
73 de Lee, KM4YY
Man is manifestly the most bald of all animals.
--Aristotle
|
577|567|2001-10-24 17:31:57|John Wagner|Re: VFO output level|Jim (and list),
I tried adding various amounts of capacitance across the primary of T5.
I ended up with the original 330pF cap + a 33pF (NPO) cap in parallel.
Unloaded, the secondary measured just under 3v to 5v with the peak
nicely in the middle. I soldered a 100ohm resistor from the output of
the secondary to ground and measured again. The output was much less
(forgot exactly how much), but it varied very little across the entire
tuning range.
It would appear that solved the problem. Thanks very much for for the
explanation!
73 de John, N1QO
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> John,
>
> My guess is that the output transformer isn't tuned correctly at
> the moment. The end of the frequency range where you are getting
> the larger output is probably where the primary of T6 (old) or
> T5 (new) is actually tuning up. Also, if you are running the
> VFO without a load, 50-100 ohms, it's output will be a lot more
> "peaky" than when it is loaded, and the Q of the tuned circuit
> comes way down, and the passband becomes much wider. Maybe that
> is a lot of what you are seeing. I'd first try changing the
> value of the tuning capacitor across the primary by adding and
> subtracting capacitance to see if it is really tuned in the middle
> of the VFO swing, and after that, terminate the output with a 100
> ohm resistor and remeasure it. It should be much flatter with
> the load resistor.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comYou can do without TC3 if you have a variety of small value NPO's - in
fact, I ended up using a 22pf. The additional 3-10pf wasn't enough to
widen my tuning range out to 100hz.
I ordered the others from Mouser.
73 de John, N1QO
"Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
>
> I just realized that the variable capacitors weren't in the trimmer kit.
> Does anybody have a good source for these?
> TC3 - 3-10pf
> TC4 - 8-50pf
> TC1,TC2, TC5-TC8 (6) - 11-70pf
> Or is Mouser the remaining hope?
> 73 de Lee, KM4YY
>
> Man is manifestly the most bald of all animals.
> --Aristotle
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 05:51 PM 10/24/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>I'm getting near D8 in the RF Amp. I found an LED in my junk box that
>measures a voltage drop of 1.47v on my DMM.
>
>Close enough? I read a previous message from Jim
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/message/278 that sort of talks
>about this, I think it is close enough but wanted to make sure.
John,
With that diode, I'd also change the emitter resistor, R11 to
about 47 ohms or maybe 56 just to keep the standing current
in the transistor near its original design value, which is
around 15 ma. Other than that, the 1.5 v LED will work just
fine.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Lee and group,
Dan's Small Parts & Kits:
http://www.fix.net/~jparker/dans.html#dan's26 has 'em. Decent prices too.
Usual disclaimer, etc.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
On Wed, 24 Oct 2001 17:02:50 -0400 "Lee S. Mairs" <
lmairs@cox.rr.com>
writes:
> I just realized that the variable capacitors weren't in the trimmer
> kit.
> Does anybody have a good source for these?
> TC3 - 3-10pf
> TC4 - 8-50pf
> TC1,TC2, TC5-TC8 (6) - 11-70pf
> Or is Mouser the remaining hope?
> 73 de Lee, KM4YY
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Does anyone know if the MV1662 diodes (D8 and 9) have the same pinout as the
MV2115 diodes used in the older version of the filter? (2N2-40 rig)
I am building tonite and need to know.....Thanks
Tom
|
583|583|2001-10-24 23:15:46|John Wagner|T6 (new schematic)|Hi Gang,
Have a couple questions;
T6 - my take on this is on one side (3/4 of it actually) of an FT-37-
43 toroid there are 11 turns and at the 4'th turn it is tapped (i.e.
pull the wire out, strip it, twist it and solder it together and keep
winding). On the other side (bottom?) the wire passes through the
toroid one time. (I've got mine in a loop so it passes underneath
twice but only once through the toroid). Is this correct?
On the collector of Q4 there is a box - what does this denote (if
anything)?
Will hopefully have the dbm finished tomorrow! Having a great time
doing my own version of the layout from the schematic.
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
|
584|582|2001-10-24 23:18:28|John Wagner|Re: mv1662 diodes|I'm fairly certain that looking at the diode with the flat surface
facing you and the leads down, the Anode is on the left side.
73 de John, N1QO
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "TC Dufresne" wrote:
> Does anyone know if the MV1662 diodes (D8 and 9) have the same
pinout as the
> MV2115 diodes used in the older version of the filter? (2N2-40 rig)
>
> I am building tonite and need to know.....Thanks
>
> Tom
As I pull parts in preparation for the build I have discovered that my
toroid collection does not include a FT37-61 as needed for the VFO output
transformer. I have plenty of -43 units and one -77 but those will not make
a reasonable substitute.
If someone has one they would like to sell or trade, that would be great.
Otherwise I will order a 4 pack from RadioShack.com for $2.40 + $2.50
shipping. At least they don't have a minimum order.
Thanks and 73
Jerry
W0PWE
|
586|567|2001-10-24 23:53:50|Wes Clopton|Re: Looking for a FT37-61 Toroid|NO PROBLEM>>iIve got extra...need address to send to..
Wes W3eru
At 10:22 PM 10/24/01 -0500, you wrote:
>As I pull parts in preparation for the build I have discovered that my
>toroid collection does not include a FT37-61 as needed for the VFO output
>transformer. I have plenty of -43 units and one -77 but those will not make
>a reasonable substitute.
>
>If someone has one they would like to sell or trade, that would be great.
>Otherwise I will order a 4 pack from RadioShack.com for $2.40 + $2.50
>shipping. At least they don't have a minimum order.
>Thanks and 73
>Jerry
>W0PWE
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
John I believe its 11 turns,then make your tap, then four more turns...
ferret bead on C lead of Q4
At 03:15 AM 10/25/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Wes
>Hi Gang,
>
>Have a couple questions;
>
>T6 - my take on this is on one side (3/4 of it actually) of an FT-37-
>43 toroid there are 11 turns and at the 4'th turn it is tapped (i.e.
>pull the wire out, strip it, twist it and solder it together and keep
>winding). On the other side (bottom?) the wire passes through the
>toroid one time. (I've got mine in a loop so it passes underneath
>twice but only once through the toroid). Is this correct?
>
>On the collector of Q4 there is a box - what does this denote (if
>anything)?
>
>Will hopefully have the dbm finished tomorrow! Having a great time
>doing my own version of the layout from the schematic.
>
>Thanks es 73,
>
>John, N1QO
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "John Wagner"
wrote:
> Hi Gang,
>
> Have a couple questions;
>
> T6 - my take on this is on one side (3/4 of it actually) of an
FT-37-
> 43 toroid there are 11 turns and at the 4'th turn it is tapped (i.e.
> pull the wire out, strip it, twist it and solder it together and
keep
> winding)
It is a 15 turn torrid
. On the other side (bottom?) the wire passes through the
> toroid one time. (I've got mine in a loop so it passes underneath
> twice but only once through the toroid). Is this correct?
>
> On the collector of Q4 there is a box - what does this denote (if
> anything)?
It is a 43 mix ferrite bead.. if ya need one, let me know, I got some
extras!
I asked Jim the same questions a while back, so that is how I know..hi
hi...
Not sure on the single turn winding tho, was gonna ask that myself
today.. great minds think alike, huh?
72 DennisHello John,
I hope that I did this correct. I twisted two lengths of wire together
leaving about 1 inch or so for a tap and placed this splice on the center
outside diameter of the torid and wraped 4 turns in one direction and 11
turns in the other direction for a total of 15 turns. The single turn I
just passed it through the center. The small box on Q4 is the ferrite
bead 43 mix. I used one from the Norcal Torid Kit.
I just finished section 3 tonight and with any luck tomorrow I will
find out it I did it right. Found a 100 mh inductor at Radio Shack to
use to see if it works. Will replace it later. I also had to use a 5-60
pf trimcap for TC9. Does it mater where the flat side of the trimcap
faces?
James KC5HAC
On Thu, 25 Oct 2001 03:15:42 -0000 "John Wagner" <
john@neknetwork.com>
writes:
> Hi Gang,
>
> Have a couple questions;
>
> T6 - my take on this is on one side (3/4 of it actually) of an
> FT-37-
> 43 toroid there are 11 turns and at the 4'th turn it is tapped (i.e.
>
> pull the wire out, strip it, twist it and solder it together and
> keep
> winding). On the other side (bottom?) the wire passes through the
> toroid one time. (I've got mine in a loop so it passes underneath
> twice but only once through the toroid). Is this correct?
>
> On the collector of Q4 there is a box - what does this denote (if
> anything)?
>
> Will hopefully have the dbm finished tomorrow! Having a great time
> doing my own version of the layout from the schematic.
>
> Thanks es 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.At 02:06 AM 10/25/01 +0100, you wrote:
>Does anyone know if the MV1662 diodes (D8 and 9) have the same pinout as the
>MV2115 diodes used in the older version of the filter? (2N2-40 rig)
>
>I am building tonite and need to know.....Thanks
>
>Tom
Tom,
Yes they are the same pinout.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:15 AM 10/25/01 +0000, John, N1QO wrote:
>Hi Gang,
>
>Have a couple questions;
>
>T6 - my take on this is on one side (3/4 of it actually) of an FT-37-
>43 toroid there are 11 turns and at the 4'th turn it is tapped (i.e.
>pull the wire out, strip it, twist it and solder it together and keep
>winding).
Yes, that is correct, or you can wind on 4 turns, pull out the
tap, and continue winding the remaining 11 turns. That's acutally
the way I did that core, but either way will work fine. The important
thing is to get the correct number of turns on the core.
> On the other side (bottom?) the wire passes through the
>toroid one time. (I've got mine in a loop so it passes underneath
>twice but only once through the toroid). Is this correct?
Yes again. If the amplifier oscillates like mad, that's a sure
sign that the one turn lead is phase incorrectly. With it phased
correctly, the amplifier is very stable.
>On the collector of Q4 there is a box - what does this denote (if
>anything)?
That's supposed to be a type 43 bead. Did its nomenclature not
show up on the schematic? You can probably leave this item
off of the amplifier. I've built it with and without using a
2N2222, and no UHF oscillation problems, which is what the bead
is supposed to suppress.
>Will hopefully have the dbm finished tomorrow! Having a great time
>doing my own version of the layout from the schematic.
Good. I for one am anxious to see more of your pictures.
Anybody else in the group doing any building? There are a lot of
folks on this Yahoo list with parts, but it's kinda quiet!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:18 AM 10/25/01 +0000, you wrote:
>I'm fairly certain that looking at the diode with the flat surface
>facing you and the leads down, the Anode is on the left side.
Correct!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 11:08 PM 10/24/01 -0500, James, KC5HAC wrote:
>Hello John,
> I hope that I did this correct. I twisted two lengths of wire together
>leaving about 1 inch or so for a tap and placed this splice on the center
>outside diameter of the torid and wraped 4 turns in one direction and 11
>turns in the other direction for a total of 15 turns.
This is another good way of winding the toroid. The important
thing is a total of 15 turns, tapped at 4 turns, which is actually
between the 4th and 5th turn, and than another 11 turns.
> The single turn I
>just passed it through the center.
Also correct.
> The small box on Q4 is the ferrite
>bead 43 mix. I used one from the Norcal Torid Kit.
Yes, the NorCal had several of these beads in it.
> I just finished section 3 tonight and with any luck tomorrow I will
>find out it I did it right. Found a 100 mh inductor at Radio Shack to
>use to see if it works.
I hope you meant 100uH. There is a big difference between
100uH and 100mH. The latter is way too much inductance.
> Will replace it later. I also had to use a 5-60
>pf trimcap for TC9. Does it mater where the flat side of the trimcap
>faces?
No not really. Both sides of that trimmer are hot with rf, but
the side toward the antenna connection is the lower impedance of
the two. You might want to make that end be the adjustment
screw, to minimize effects from your tuning tool.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> Anybody else in the group doing any building? There are a lot of
> folks on this Yahoo list with parts, but it's kinda quiet!!
Don't worry Jim !
In the UK we are a bit slow :)
the last couple of parts are being collected, Huberts brother is
sending some pads from Holland then 3 more will be on the way.
I've polished the substrate to a mirror finish, soldering iron is on
stand-by. Hope to be posting pictures of the VFO scope trace end of
next week !
73 Steve G4GXLJim,
Looks like I was a tad off there. I meant to type 100uH. I did have
to recheck the package to make sure.
James KC5HAC
> > Found a 100 mh inductor at Radio Shack
> to
> >use to see if it works.
>
> I hope you meant 100uH. There is a big difference between
> 100uH and 100mH. The latter is way too much inductance.
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Gang,
I've got one last question about T6.
Does the placement of the secondary matter greatly? What I mean is,
is it a matter of passing a wire through the toriod once, and have a
pad on either side (sort of like an upside down "U"), or should I run
the wire through the toroid, then underneath and have both pads on
one side (sort of like a "C"). This will make a difference in my
layout, that's why I'm wondering.
73 de John, N1QO
|
597|596|2001-10-25 18:35:43|james-rhonda@juno.com|Re: T6 redux|John,
The upside down "U" form is the way that I went. Of course that doesnt
mean that I am correct but it was the way two toroids were installed in
the Nogapig Wattmeter and mine works.
James KC5HAC
On Thu, 25 Oct 2001 21:40:57 -0000 "John Wagner" <
john@neknetwork.com>
writes:
> Gang,
>
> I've got one last question about T6.
>
> Does the placement of the secondary matter greatly? What I mean is,
> is it a matter of passing a wire through the toriod once, and have a
>
> pad on either side (sort of like an upside down "U"), or should I
> run
> the wire through the toroid, then underneath and have both pads on
> one side (sort of like a "C"). This will make a difference in my
> layout, that's why I'm wondering.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
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>
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GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Steve -
The problem with Dan's Small Parts is that they won't take Paypal. When I
want stuff, I want it yesterday!
73 de Lee, KM4YY
A countryman between two lawyers is like a fish between two cats.
--Ben Franklin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen M Smith" <sigcom@juno.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] New file uploaded to 2n2-40
> Lee and group,
>
> Dan's Small Parts & Kits: http://www.fix.net/~jparker/dans.html#dan's26
> has 'em. Decent prices too.
> Usual disclaimer, etc.
>
> 73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
> WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
> "Snort Rosin"
>
>
> On Wed, 24 Oct 2001 17:02:50 -0400 "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> writes:
> > I just realized that the variable capacitors weren't in the trimmer
> > kit.
> > Does anybody have a good source for these?
> > TC3 - 3-10pf
> > TC4 - 8-50pf
> > TC1,TC2, TC5-TC8 (6) - 11-70pf
> > Or is Mouser the remaining hope?
> > 73 de Lee, KM4YY
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Group-
I placed the order for the coils today. Should have them in a few
days.
I'll put out the call for money, etc. when I get them and figure out
how best to send them.
Meanwhile, sucking initial fumes here.
-Cam N6GA
|
600|596|2001-10-25 21:35:36|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: T6 redux|At 09:40 PM 10/25/01 +0000, John, N1QO wrote:
>Gang,
>
>I've got one last question about T6.
>
>Does the placement of the secondary matter greatly? What I mean is,
>is it a matter of passing a wire through the toriod once, and have a
>pad on either side (sort of like an upside down "U"), or should I run
>the wire through the toroid, then underneath and have both pads on
>one side (sort of like a "C"). This will make a difference in my
>layout, that's why I'm wondering.
John and others,
As long as the wire passes through the toroid anywhere, it will
work fine. Essentially, all of the magnetic force field is
contained within the toroid, so that it makes little difference
whether the turn is on one side or the other, or whether is is
a complete U or some other geometry. If you look at the picture
that I posted of the RF Amp, that 1 turn link starts on the left,
and ends at the bottom of the toroid, essentially a 90 degree
turn, but it passes through the toroid from above to below to
get the 1 turn.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I'm only getting 1 volt P-P out of my VFO. I'm thinking about
replacing the VFO emitter resistors with lower value resistors. Will
that work? Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Jake -- N4UY
|
602|601|2001-10-26 09:30:04|John Wagner|Re: Low VFO Output|Is that a flat 1v P-P, across the tuning range or does it increase as
you tune up.
How wide is the tuning range?
John, N1QO
"Jake Carter, N4UY" wrote:
>
> I'm only getting 1 volt P-P out of my VFO. I'm thinking about
> replacing the VFO emitter resistors with lower value resistors. Will
> that work? Any other suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jake -- N4UY
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comTwo words...
Ocean State Electronics
They have all sorts of older "vintage" stuff for QRP'ers, and Frank and I
are practically old friends.
Dunno about Pay Pal, but give 'em a try...
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspJohn, the 1v P-P is about the max -- the level varies over the tuning
range. I forget if its lower at 2.088 or at 2.188 Mhz, but its
about .8v at one end and 1v at the other.
Jake
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> Is that a flat 1v P-P, across the tuning range or does it increase
as
> you tune up.
>
> How wide is the tuning range?
>
> John, N1QO
>
> "Jake Carter, N4UY" wrote:
> >
> > I'm only getting 1 volt P-P out of my VFO. I'm thinking about
> > replacing the VFO emitter resistors with lower value resistors.
Will
> > that work? Any other suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jake -- N4UY
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@w...
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
I'll let the experts here be the judge, but I would try adding or
reducing the capacitance across T5 (i.e. raising or lowering the value
of C12). This made a significant difference in my VFO's output (see the
previous messages about this).
73 de John, N1QO
"Jake Carter, N4UY" wrote:
>
> John, the 1v P-P is about the max -- the level varies over the tuning
> range. I forget if its lower at 2.088 or at 2.188 Mhz, but its
> about .8v at one end and 1v at the other.
>
> Jake
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> > Is that a flat 1v P-P, across the tuning range or does it increase
> as
> > you tune up.
> >
> > How wide is the tuning range?
> >
> > John, N1QO
> >
> > "Jake Carter, N4UY" wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm only getting 1 volt P-P out of my VFO. I'm thinking about
> > > replacing the VFO emitter resistors with lower value resistors.
> Will
> > > that work? Any other suggestions?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Jake -- N4UY
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> > --
> > John Wagner - john@w...
> > Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJohn -- N1QO:
Thanks for the messages.
I used the hint posted recently about using an air variable cap
across T5 to peak the output power -- then remove the air variable,
measure its capacitance, and put in a combination of NP0 caps that
total that value. My VFO peaked with 296 pF (a 220, a 68, and a
couple 4.7 pF's -- pretty close). I had even less output before
adjusting the capacitance across T5!!
I'm working on the front end now. If my Mouser order gets through
I'll have the 100 mH choke -- mail is a bit slow in the Washington DC
area these days.
If, after I finish the front end, I can hear 40m signals on my
general coverage receiver at the 2N2-40's IF frequency, then I'm not
going to worry about my low VFO output. If its still a problem, then
I'm going to mess around with the VFO transistor emitter resistors.
I'll keep you posted.
73,
Jake -- N4UY
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> I'll let the experts here be the judge, but I would try adding or
> reducing the capacitance across T5 (i.e. raising or lowering the
value
> of C12). This made a significant difference in my VFO's output (see
the
> previous messages about this).
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> "Jake Carter, N4UY" wrote:
> >
> > John, the 1v P-P is about the max -- the level varies over the
tuning
> > range. I forget if its lower at 2.088 or at 2.188 Mhz, but its
> > about .8v at one end and 1v at the other.
> >
> > Jake
At 12:47 PM 10/26/01 +0000, Jake, N4UY wrote:
>I'm only getting 1 volt P-P out of my VFO. I'm thinking about
>replacing the VFO emitter resistors with lower value resistors. Will
>that work? Any other suggestions?
Jake and others,
Yes, you can reduce the value of the emitter resistor in the
VFO output transistor from 390 ohms down to maybe 220 ohms to
get more output. At some lower value, the smoke will come out of the
transistor, and that will be the endpoint for that device! :-)
I'm suspicious that something else in the circuit may not be quite
right with only getting that much output, especially open circuit.
I'd double check the circuitry and parts values to make sure they
are all ok, and it is wired correctly.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY (Boo)
Gang,
Once and for all, can someone help me decipher the pinots on
potentiometers as they relate to a schematic? In particular the one
that Jim sent along in the Filter kit (which by the way, I made it
all the way up to soldering in the xtals for the variable filter
tonight!).
Thanks!
73 de John, N1QO
|
610|609|2001-10-27 09:35:41|Kevin Murphy, KC8SFJ|Re: stupid potentiometer question|> Once and for all, can someone help me decipher the pinots on
> potentiometers as they relate to a schematic? In particular the one
> that Jim sent along in the Filter kit (which by the way, I made it
> all the way up to soldering in the xtals for the variable filter
> tonight!).
Sure Jim,
The pinout is as you look at the front of the pot. For the one that
Jim sent, if you put the terminals on the bottom the High end is on
the right and the Low end is on the left. Center is of course the
wiper. For the Ten turn pot, look at the schematic symbol on the
side. The wiper is center and it should have an arrow indicating
CW. The arrow points to the High end and the other one is the Low
end.
Hope this helps.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Kevin Murphy, KC8SFJ"
wrote:
> > Once and for all, can someone help me decipher the pinots on
> > potentiometers as they relate to a schematic? In particular the
one
> > that Jim sent along in the Filter kit (which by the way, I made
it
> > all the way up to soldering in the xtals for the variable filter
> > tonight!).
>
> Sure Jim,
> The pinout is as you look at the front of the pot. For the one
that
> Jim sent, if you put the terminals on the bottom the High end is on
> the right and the Low end is on the left. Center is of course the
> wiper. For the Ten turn pot, look at the schematic symbol on the
> side. The wiper is center and it should have an arrow indicating
> CW. The arrow points to the High end and the other one is the Low
> end.
> Hope this helps.
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
Well I meant John, but you probably knew that. :(It helps a lot, thanks. I feel like a dolt asking that question, but for
some reason I can build an entire transceiver but never fail to wire the
POTS incorrectly!
73 de John, N1QO
"Kevin Murphy, KC8SFJ" wrote:
>
> Sure Jim,
> The pinout is as you look at the front of the pot. For the one that
> Jim sent, if you put the terminals on the bottom the High end is on
> the right and the Low end is on the left. Center is of course the
> wiper. For the Ten turn pot, look at the schematic symbol on the
> side. The wiper is center and it should have an arrow indicating
> CW. The arrow points to the High end and the other one is the Low
> end.
> Hope this helps.
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThis (asking) is ALWAYS a smart move -- not a "dolt" move. I seem to forget
critical "simple" things everyday! I asked this same question when building
my first 2n2. I would have asked it AGAIN if you had not! grin
-MAC-
AF4PS
In a message dated 10/27/2001 11:56:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
john@wagner-usa.net writes:
> It helps a lot, thanks. I feel like a dolt asking that question, but for
> some reason I can build an entire transceiver but never fail to wire the
> POTS incorrectly!
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
Well, I figured out what I did wrong -- I connected my Vcc to the
wrong side of C12. I moved the Vcc connection over and now have a
nice 3v P-P sine wave output.
Of course I discovered my error after replacing Q3. My old Q3 wasn't
providing any output -- providing it with a little juice would have
helped :-)
I'm moving on to the receiver front-end. I've got the DBM and input
filter wired up. Down to T6 and Q4 and related components. I wonder
what I'll mess up this time? The benefit is, I always learn
something when I solve one of these little problems -- makes me feel
good too.
73,
Jake -- N4UY
|
615|614|2001-10-27 21:11:07|John Wagner|Re: Low VFO Output - Solved!!|Way to go Jake!
I learn something everytime I figure out one of these little "glitches."
I do wish I could avoid so many hard knocks though.
Can't wait to get the rcvr finished...
73 de John, N1QO
"Jake Carter, N4UY" wrote:
>
> Well, I figured out what I did wrong -- I connected my Vcc to the
> wrong side of C12. I moved the Vcc connection over and now have a
> nice 3v P-P sine wave output.
>
>
> 73,
>
> Jake -- N4UY
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comOk Gang,
My VFO lives...and Im rite proud of it. But
I had a couple of rounds with it before I was satisfied.
I spent two days looking for 2.o85 +/- with my TS850
then realized there were birdies everywhere down in the noise floor.
And thats normal in my shack. A computer running on line
all the time, a TV and VCR on, two digital clocks, a scanner..no two
scanners (one to monitor my 2mtr repeater and another to listen
to everything else...
So I hooked up a H/P counter I picked up at a hamfest for
5$ a few years ago. Nobody wanted a 12 MHz counter..you could
not see CB radio with it. BUT I turned it on AND BINGO
there was my VFO to the sixth digit..look at it..I WAS HAPPY.
Now it took another L1, the first one just wont tune in right.
Boy its ruff counting 44 turns and putting that stupid little
wire thru a hole between your fingers that is cycling 2 inchs
at 68 cycles per minute.... And then out of the clear blue a
tick (jolt..jerk) hits me....something to do with meds (pills)>
Anyway there I am with my hands up in front of me and no L1.
Its gone...Just blink and its gone...my dog knew where it was
but she wont tell me..never did find the dang thing.
Soooo number 3 L1 coming up....two oclock in the morning ive got
a new L1.48 turns and all. a few extra doesn't hurt...does it...??
OK, lets tune....take a turn offf..and another, one more
.....thats it....add 33pf across c12 and look at that...
from the counter.....2,085.473 to 2,189.223.mhz
The best little movement sensor I ever made.
Any movement around the desk makes it sounds like a
waling guitar.... Oh IVE GOT MY TS850 tuned to it now.
The counter told me where it was...hihi
Slapped some Q-Dope on L1 and that cured that.
Since I had it tuned in on my Kenwood, I brought
another goodie called Spectran up on the computer.
Now Ill just watch the waterfall plot for a while
to see if any problems show up...None so far and
the drift down in freq of about 200 cycles in two hours.....
So far so good..Ive got the audio section finished already
it checks out good..
Im redoing the Front end section now. Changing the layout
to accommodate the new RF amp...
Ive got the IF section finished with the new Variable
bandpass crystal filter finished, so I should have a complete receiver
working soon.
So I chugging right along......
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
617|617|2001-10-28 10:10:58|John Wagner|more pics||
618|617|2001-10-28 10:22:47|Wes Clopton|Re: more pics||
619|617|2001-10-28 11:14:19|John Wagner|Re: more pics||
620|620|2001-10-28 21:23:51|TC Dufresne|Stage 4, COMPLETE!|Folks, I just completed and tested stage 4. Some observations...
1) the little LED's glow real nice!
2) I am not using a coax to the RCVR, and the signal seems a little "messy".
Is it just me? I can hear code, heard a N5 N5 from Arkansas and a W5 from
Texas.
3) The filter seems to work, but I get some buzzy's and noises that come and
go as I touch the 10 turn pot and the filter pots. Could I be over-driving
my rcvr? I remember reading something about turning RF gain down.....It
still happens when I turn the gain way down, though sometimes much less than
others.....
4) The "background noise" (white noise?) seems to increase a lot when I
power up. Much louder then just with the "front end" (Stage 3) I expect
thats my "gain" with the amp, right?
How am I doing?
Tom
KC0GXX
|
621|621|2001-10-29 13:00:25|Delbert Long|Back in the Saddle Again...|Caps Kit arrived Saturday (THANKS, KEN!!!) So I am back to melting solder
again, I see that quite a few have gotten pretty far, and I am taking
advantage of your posts to answer a few questions before I get to them.
Here are a few of my own observations, and questions...
1. Seems that a 15 watt soldering iron is not quite hot enough...
2. What is the correct alignment of the MVAM109 diodes? I "ohmed" it out,
and I think I got it right but I want to be sure.
3. I went out and bought some caps in case the kit didn't arrive, and I
wonder if I got NPO's or not - they only say NTE ceramic capacitor, values
are 50 volt 220 pf and 47 pf, and the value is underscored...if they are NOT
NPO, where would they be useful in a circuit?
4. If I get enough of a break at lunchtime, I should be able to finish the
VFO and get it checked out today.
Thanks and keep on letting the good times roll!
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspDelbert Long wrote:
>
> Caps Kit arrived Saturday (THANKS, KEN!!!) So I am back to melting solder
> again, I see that quite a few have gotten pretty far, and I am taking
> advantage of your posts to answer a few questions before I get to them.
>
> Here are a few of my own observations, and questions...
>
> 1. Seems that a 15 watt soldering iron is not quite hot enough...
Nope. I'm using a Weller WES50 at about 765 degrees. I like to get in,
heat fast and get out.
> 2. What is the correct alignment of the MVAM109 diodes? I "ohmed" it out,
> and I think I got it right but I want to be sure.
With the flat surface towards you and the leads down, the Anode is on
the left and Cathode on the right.
> 3. I went out and bought some caps in case the kit didn't arrive, and I
> wonder if I got NPO's or not - they only say NTE ceramic capacitor, values
> are 50 volt 220 pf and 47 pf, and the value is underscored...if they are NOT
> NPO, where would they be useful in a circuit?
Pretty sure a line underneath the value, or a black "hat" on the top
denotes an NPO cap.
73 de John, N1QO
> 4. If I get enough of a break at lunchtime, I should be able to finish the
> VFO and get it checked out today.
>
> Thanks and keep on letting the good times roll!
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comMine said "KEMET 5%" Which I looked up and was said to be "NPO", according
to Mousers
Tom
>From: "Delbert Long" <AD6WE@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2n2-40] Back in the Saddle Again...
>Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 18:00:19 +0000
>
>Caps Kit arrived Saturday (THANKS, KEN!!!) So I am back to melting solder
>again, I see that quite a few have gotten pretty far, and I am taking
>advantage of your posts to answer a few questions before I get to them.
>
>Here are a few of my own observations, and questions...
>
>1. Seems that a 15 watt soldering iron is not quite hot enough...
>
>2. What is the correct alignment of the MVAM109 diodes? I "ohmed" it out,
>and I think I got it right but I want to be sure.
>
>3. I went out and bought some caps in case the kit didn't arrive, and I
>wonder if I got NPO's or not - they only say NTE ceramic capacitor, values
>are 50 volt 220 pf and 47 pf, and the value is underscored...if they are
>NOT
>NPO, where would they be useful in a circuit?
>
>4. If I get enough of a break at lunchtime, I should be able to finish the
>VFO and get it checked out today.
>
>Thanks and keep on letting the good times roll!
>
>Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
>Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
>Einstein
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 02:24 AM 10/29/01 +0000, Tom, KC0GXX wrote:
>Folks, I just completed and tested stage 4. Some observations...
>
>1) the little LED's glow real nice!
Indeed. With a total of three of them in there, the inside of the
rig is lit up fairly well. I do like the green color on the Fairchild
units that went out with the VBW filter kits.
>2) I am not using a coax to the RCVR, and the signal seems a little "messy".
>Is it just me? I can hear code, heard a N5 N5 from Arkansas and a W5 from
>Texas.
Can you describe "messy" in better engineering terms?
>3) The filter seems to work, but I get some buzzy's and noises that come and
>go as I touch the 10 turn pot and the filter pots.
Sounds like some 60 Hz pickup on these that will go away when
the shafts and cases are grounded when the rig goes into a
case. Actually, a fairly common problem. I've seen it before
in other rigs.
> Could I be over-driving
>my rcvr?
Maybe, maybe not, read on. Could be you also don't have the
other receiver tuned to the center of the crystal filter passband.
That might cause some of the signals to sound a bit funky.
> I remember reading something about turning RF gain down.....It
>still happens when I turn the gain way down, though sometimes much less than
>others.....
Well then maybe it is overloading the receiver you're using to
listen to the IF output. On the weaker signals it's OK, and on
the strong ones it is driving the other receiver too hard.
>4) The "background noise" (white noise?) seems to increase a lot when I
>power up. Much louder then just with the "front end" (Stage 3) I expect
>thats my "gain" with the amp, right?
Its the gain from both the post-mixer amplifier, about 9 dB, and
the IF amplifier, another 40+ dB. All together, about 50 dB
of gain, which amplifies both signal and band noise, although,
much of the band noise gets eliminated via the crystal filter.
All that gain, added to the already 12 dB from the RF amplifier,
can easily overload the front-end of your other receiver. Offsetting
all of this gain are the losses in the receiver so far. The input
filter has some, the DBM has some, and there is more in the crystal
filter. But the total of all three of these is about 10-12 dB, so
we still end up with about 50 dB of gain. That's a voltage gain
of 300, so an S9 signal (50 uV) at the antenna, is going to produce
15 millivolts of drive to the attached receiver. That's a lot of
drive!
>How am I doing?
Good as far as I can tell. Any others have any comments?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 06:00 PM 10/29/01 +0000, Delbert, AD6WE wrote:
>Caps Kit arrived Saturday (THANKS, KEN!!!) So I am back to melting solder
>again, I see that quite a few have gotten pretty far, and I am taking
>advantage of your posts to answer a few questions before I get to them.
>
>Here are a few of my own observations, and questions...
>
>1. Seems that a 15 watt soldering iron is not quite hot enough...
It gets hot enough, but doesn't have the heat capacity to properly
solder the ground connections. I use a temperature controlled
40 watt iron, and think it is about right from solder both the
pad connections, and the ground connections to the substrate. Those
take a lot more heat capacity, as the substrate is a good heatsink.
>2. What is the correct alignment of the MVAM109 diodes? I "ohmed" it out,
>and I think I got it right but I want to be sure.
With the flat side facing you and the leads pointing down, the
anode is on the left, and the cathode is on the right. The anode
is the lead that goes to ground, that is, the diode is reversed
biased.
>3. I went out and bought some caps in case the kit didn't arrive, and I
>wonder if I got NPO's or not - they only say NTE ceramic capacitor, values
>are 50 volt 220 pf and 47 pf, and the value is underscored...if they are NOT
>NPO, where would they be useful in a circuit?
As coupling capacitors or rf bypassing, but not in critical
frequency control areas, or as filter elements. They will have
wide temperature coefficients, and be more loss at rf frequencies
than NPO caps. Where did you buy them? Does that source have
any documentation?
>4. If I get enough of a break at lunchtime, I should be able to finish the
>VFO and get it checked out today.
>
>Thanks and keep on letting the good times roll!
I'll do my part!! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
Tom said:
>
> >2) I am not using a coax to the RCVR, and the signal seems a little
>"messy".
> >Is it just me? I can hear code, heard a N5 N5 from Arkansas and a W5 from
> >Texas.
Jim says...........
>Can you describe "messy" in better engineering terms?
Tom replies...........
Uhh, no, not really. "Dammit Jim, I'm a physical therapist, not an
engineer!!!" (joke.. Said a la Bones from Star Trek
)
How about scratchy, unclear, static-y, buzzes....
Its not NEARLY as clear as it was from just stage three.
Thats about the best I can do...
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspTom,
This cracked me up. Reminded me of the time Diz, W8DIZ was helping me troubleshoot my MP-20 Manhatten style rig, and I was attempting to describe O'scope traces to him. I learned what DIV means that day... and he learned "sorta-fuzzy-squiggly". You are doing GOOD man!
-MAC-
AF4PS
In a message dated Mon, 29 Oct 2001 2:36:03 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Tom Dufresne" <
tdufres@hotmail.com> writes:
> >From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
>
> Tom said:
> >
> > >2) I am not using a coax to the RCVR, and the signal seems a little
> >"messy".
> > >Is it just me? I can hear code, heard a N5 N5 from Arkansas and a W5 from
> > >Texas.
>
> Jim says...........
>
> >Can you describe "messy" in better engineering terms?
>
> Tom replies...........
>
> Uhh, no, not really. "Dammit Jim, I'm a physical therapist, not an
> engineer!!!" (joke.. Said a la Bones from Star Trek )
>
> How about scratchy, unclear, static-y, buzzes....
> Its not NEARLY as clear as it was from just stage three.
>
> Thats about the best I can do...
> Tom
>
I may check voltages off the transistors in stage 4 tonite, I have
seen the numbers posted here;
http://home.att.net/~mschettler/WA6MER.2.html Question: Are these numbers just taken using a "standard" voltmeter?
Sorry to sound so stupid.....
Tom
At 04:03 PM 10/29/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Tom,
>
>This cracked me up. Reminded me of the time Diz, W8DIZ was helping me
>troubleshoot my MP-20 Manhatten style rig, and I was attempting to
>describe O'scope traces to him. I learned what DIV means that day... and
>he learned "sorta-fuzzy-squiggly". You are doing GOOD man!
>
>-MAC-
>AF4PS
MAC,
Stop encouraging him!! :-) You're just going to get him
to do more of this.........
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Okay, my VFO is finished -
Soldered the last components in, and put in T5 for good measure (does it
have to be there for check out?
I'm gonna try to get some sleep tonight, and check the thing tomorrow for
smoke and oscillations. All in the right place, I hope!
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp> >3) The filter seems to work, but I get some buzzy's and noises that
come and
> >go as I touch the 10 turn pot and the filter pots.
>
> Sounds like some 60 Hz pickup on these that will go away when
> the shafts and cases are grounded when the rig goes into a
> case. Actually, a fairly common problem. I've seen it before
> in other rigs.
Any others have any comments?
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
I had weird stuff happening with my rig that went away when I packaged
it... for instance, when the board was sitting on the desk with the AF
gain pot hooked up but flopping loose on the bench, touching it would
cause hum, etc. It's fine now.
72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJ
Thanks Dave. I tried a much smaller antenna (2 feet versus a 66 foot 40m
dipole) and she's good to go!
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspDuh...I didn't install the diode - schematic says 1N4004...I am gonna assume
that the 1N4007 is what we are using in it's place...stand by...the iron is
heating....what else is missing?
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspOkay, where should I be putting my scope probe? Primary of T5 I read only
VCC, and on the secondary I get nada...I'm gonna look and see if anyone else
had similar troubles....
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspOkay...TC4 seems to be missing...lemee see if I can squeeze a trimmer in
there and see what happens.....
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspIs it working yet????!!!!
Your emails make me want to get to work on mine, only I have ten other
things to do tonight. Arrrgghhhh.
73 de John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
>
> Okay...TC4 seems to be missing...lemee see if I can squeeze a trimmer in
> there and see what happens.....
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJohn, thanks for your concern...but no, it still isn't working. I need to
dig up that missing trimmer, and find a place to squeeze it in on the board.
I wasn't very careful when I put the pads down, and everything is really
tight!
Gonna take it over to one of my Elmer's tonight if I can...I think he will
be able to help me out. This is Fun, This is Fun, This is Fun...
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspA while back I ordered a 2n2/40 kit of parts from Dan's Small Parts. It
seems to have just about everything I need, but I as I was sorting out parts
for stage 3, I found that L8 is a 10uH part, not 12uH. I assume this will
work, but I'm wondering is anyone else has tried a substitution like this.
________________________________
Kevin Gibson
NØKLV
kevin@gibsonhome.org http://www.gibsonhome.org/ AOL Instant Messenger: KevinN0KLV
MSN Messenger: n0klv
________________________________
I have now managed to find a radio with coverage to check my VFO and
have found that it does not seem to work. I have rechecked all caps, and
resistors to make sure they are the correct value, have checked out the
proper placement of diodes and pot connections several times along with
the parts being on the correct pads. The only changes I made was to R1
(or R5 on the old schematic) from 560 ohm to 470ohm and changed R10 (or
R63 on the old schematic) from 15k to 1.5k as I used the 2k pot. Here
are the voltages for Q1 (Q2 old) E= 5.05v, B= 6.05v, C= 6.75v. Q2 (Q3
old) E= 4.55v, B=5.19v, C= 14.72 Q3 (Q4 old) E=3.89v, B= 4.55v,
C=14.72v. As you can see my 12 volt power supply puts out almost 15
volts compared to the 12.4 volts used on the table of typical 2n2/40
voltages so at this point I am guessing that the voltages are ok compared
to the higher voltage being used from my supply. Also I get the same
Nada as Delbert on the secondary of T5 and I ask as he does "is this
correct". I think I have spent as much time trying to find out what I
have wrong as I have in building the three stages. Bet I learn something
from it :-)
James Wayne Rue KC5HAC
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Due to a crash of my harddisk I don't have access to my emails:-( Would the UK builders be so kind as to send their addresses to
hsmits@vision.com. I got all the parts (including the pads) so we can start building.
Sorry for the use of the bandwith.
72 de Hubert
At 09:38 PM 10/30/01 -0600, Kevin Gibson, NØKLV wrote:
>A while back I ordered a 2n2/40 kit of parts from Dan's Small Parts. It
>seems to have just about everything I need, but I as I was sorting out parts
>for stage 3, I found that L8 is a 10uH part, not 12uH. I assume this will
>work, but I'm wondering is anyone else has tried a substitution like this.
Kevin,
The 10uH will work fine, it will just require a bit more capacitance
from trimmer TC9 to hit resonance. If it won't peak with the bare
trimmer, you can always add a smallish (22-47pF) across the trimmer
to get the capacitance you need.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim, Now that we are working on the 2n2-40+
which has no parts list or explanation guide yet.
I came upon the RIT schematic and had a attack of
JohnW POT Confusion....Where is POT2 HI or Lo and L1 Hi.
Also where on the keying circuit could I put a LED to show
when in transmit mode..Should R70 have a center detent.
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
643|642|2001-10-31 10:15:37|macstein@aol.com|Re: Confusion factors|In a message dated 10/31/2001 10:06:57 AM Eastern Standard Time,
w3eru@arrl.net writes:
> Jim, Now that we are working on the 2n2-40+
>
> which has no parts list or explanation guide yet.
Three are three diferent parts lists! (None significantly different except
for the mods and revisions since the first NorCal build.) I have one from
the QRPp issue I'll send you if you like, but it's also available in EXCEL
format from the Yahoo site, I think.
Drop me a note if you want a copy of mine - Wes or anyone else!
-MAC-
AF4PS
macstein@aol.comAt 11:37 PM 10/30/01 -0600, James Wayne Rue, KC5HAC wrote:
> I have now managed to find a radio with coverage to check my VFO and
>have found that it does not seem to work. I have rechecked all caps, and
>resistors to make sure they are the correct value, have checked out the
>proper placement of diodes and pot connections several times along with
>the parts being on the correct pads. The only changes I made was to R1
>(or R5 on the old schematic) from 560 ohm to 470ohm and changed R10 (or
>R63 on the old schematic) from 15k to 1.5k as I used the 2k pot. Here
>are the voltages for Q1 (Q2 old) E= 5.05v, B= 6.05v, C= 6.75v.
These don't look correct to me. The collector should be more
like 6.9 volts, the base 4.4 volts, and the emitter 3.7 volts.
I'm guessing that the 10K resistor in the Q1 base bias network
isn't grounded. Look at the new schematic to see which of the
parts around Q1 are grounded. The old schematic was a bit
confusing in that regard.
> Q2 (Q3
>old) E= 4.55v, B=5.19v, C= 14.72 Q3 (Q4 old) E=3.89v, B= 4.55v,
>C=14.72v.
These aren't correct either, as all of the remaining bias
values are derived from the emitter voltage of Q1. If this
isn't correct, everything else will be off too.
As a general not to all builders. You can't accurately measure
the bias voltages on any of the VFO transistors when the VFO is
oscillating. The RF voltages on the various transistors will
affect your readings, sometimes severely. To kill the oscillations,
lift on end of C11 (old) or C9 (new). Oscillation will be halted,
and accurate bias readings will result
> As you can see my 12 volt power supply puts out almost 15
>volts compared to the 12.4 volts used on the table of typical 2n2/40
>voltages so at this point I am guessing that the voltages are ok compared
>to the higher voltage being used from my supply.
I don't agree. Running the rig on 15 volts won't hurt anything, but
the voltages on Q1 are suspicious. I'm guessing it isn't biased
correctly.
> Also I get the same
>Nada as Delbert on the secondary of T5 and I ask as he does "is this
>correct".
No, there should be lots of signal on the secondary of T5 (new)
when the VFO is working correctly. It will be 2-3 volts p-p open
circuit, and about 1.2 volts p-p when driving the receive DBM.
> I think I have spent as much time trying to find out what I
>have wrong as I have in building the three stages. Bet I learn something
>from it :-)
Bet you do too. It's part of the fun and mystique of scratch
building.
72, GL and thanks for the detailed post James,
Jim, K8IQY
I think that is the posted, right...Ill take a copy of it but
I dont have EXCEL yet so im not sure how well it will transpose.
At 10:15 AM 10/31/01 -0500, you wrote:
>In a message dated 10/31/2001 10:06:57 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>w3eru@arrl.net writes:
>
> > Jim, Now that we are working on the 2n2-40+
> >
> > which has no parts list or explanation guide yet.
>
>Three are three diferent parts lists! (None significantly different except
>for the mods and revisions since the first NorCal build.) I have one from
>the QRPp issue I'll send you if you like, but it's also available in EXCEL
>format from the Yahoo site, I think.
>Drop me a note if you want a copy of mine - Wes or anyone else!
>
>-MAC-
>AF4PS
>macstein@aol.com
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
In a message dated 10/31/2001 10:44:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
w3eru@arrl.net writes:
> I think that is the posted, right...Ill take a copy of it but
> I dont have EXCEL yet so im not sure how well it will transpose.
I'll scooot one of in the mail today Wes! No prob! Is this correct?
W3ERU
WILLIAM W. CLOPTON
5202 COLEBROOK DR
LA PLATA MD 20646
USA
-MAC-
AF4PS
OK MAC.........SOUNDS GOOD TO ME
SS THIS WEEKEND ... ...
At 10:47 AM 10/31/01 -0500, you wrote:
>In a message dated 10/31/2001 10:44:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>w3eru@arrl.net writes:
>
> > I think that is the posted, right...Ill take a copy of it but
> > I dont have EXCEL yet so im not sure how well it will transpose.
>
>I'll scooot one of in the mail today Wes! No prob! Is this correct?
>
>W3ERU
>WILLIAM W. CLOPTON
>5202 COLEBROOK DR
>LA PLATA MD 20646
>USA
>
>-MAC-
>AF4PS
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> ...Now that we are working on the 2n2-40+
> which has no parts list or explanation guide yet....
Not so! Contact Paul Harden, NA5N at Quicksilver Press for a delightful
reprint of the original NorCal QRP Club article. It is wire-bound so that
it will lay open to the desired page easily while you work.
72 de Lee, KM4YY
You will not become a saint through other people's sins.
-- Anton Pavlovich Chekhov
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@arrl.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 10:03 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Confusion factors
The Differential Theory of US Armed Forces (Snake Model) upon encountering a
snake in the Area of Operations (AO)
1. Infantry: Snake smells them, leaves area.
2. Airborne: Lands on and kills the snake.
3. Armor: Runs over snake, laughs, and looks for more snakes.
4. Aviation: Has Global Positioning Satellite coordinates to snake. Can't
find snake. Returns to base for refuel, crew rest and manicure.
5. Ranger: Plays with snake, then eats it.
6. Field Artillery: Kills snake with massive Time On Target barrage with
three Forward Artillery Brigades in support. Kills several hundred civilians
as unavoidable collateral damage. Mission is considered a success and all
participants (i.e., cooks, mechanics and clerks) are awarded Silver Stars.
7. Special Forces: Makes contact with snake, ignores all State Department
directives and Theater Commander Rules of Engagement by building rapport
with snake and winning its heart and mind. Trains it to kill other snakes.
Files enormous travel settlement upon return.
8. Combat Engineer: Studies snake. Prepares in-depth doctrinal thesis in
obscure 5 series Field Manual about how to defeat snake using
countermobility assets. Complains that maneuver forces don't understand how
to properly conduct doctrinal counter-snake ops.
9. Navy SEAL: Expends all ammunition and calls for naval gunfire support in
failed attempt to kill snake. Snake bites SEAL and retreats to safety.
Hollywood makes fantasy film in which SEALS kill Muslim extremist snakes.
10. Navy: Fires off 50 cruise missiles from various types of ships, kills
snake and makes presentation to Senate Appropriations Committee on how Naval
forces are the most cost-effective means of anti-snake force projection.
11. Marine: Kills snake by accident while looking for souvenirs. Local
civilians demand removal of all US forces from Area of Operations.
12. Marine Recon: Follows snake, gets lost.
13. Combat Controllers: Guides snake elsewhere.
14. Para-Rescue Jumper: Wounds snake in initial encounter, then works
feverishly to save snake's life.
15. Quartermaster: (NOTICE: Your anti-snake equipment is on backorder.)
16. C-17 Transport pilot: Receives call for anti-snake equipment, delivers
two weeks after due date.
17. F-15 pilot: Mis-identifies snake as enemy Mil-24 Hind helicopter and
engages with missiles. Crew chief paints snake kill on aircraft.
18. F-16 pilot: Finds snake, drops two CBU-87 cluster bombs, and misses
snake target, but get direct hit on Embassy 100 KM East of snake due to
weather (Too Hot also Too Cold, Was Clear but too overcast, Too dry with
Rain, Unlimited ceiling with low cloud cover etc.) Claims that purchasing
multi-million dollar, high-tech snake-killing device will enable it in the
future to kill all snakes and achieve a revolution in military affairs.
19. AH-64 Apache pilot: Unable to locate snake, snakes don't show well on
infra-red. Infrared only operable in desert AO's without power lines or
SAM's.
20. UH-60 Blackhawk pilot: Finds snake on fourth pass after snake builds
bonfire, pops smoke, lays out VS 17 to mark Landing Zone. Rotor wash blows
snake into fire.
21. B-52 pilot: Pulls ARCLIGHT mission on snake, kills snake and every other
living thing within two miles of target.
22. MinuteMan Missile crew: Lays in target coordinates to snake in
20seconds, but can't receive authorization from National Command Authority
to use nuclear weapons.
23. Intelligence officer: Snake? What snake? Only four of 35 indicators of
snake activity are currently active. We assess the potential for snake
activity as LOW.
24. Judge Advocate General (JAG): Snake declines to bite, citing grounds of
professional courtesy.
25. Signal: Tries to communicate with snake...fail repeated attempts.
Complains that the snake did not have the correct fill or did not know how
to work equipment a child could operate. Signal Officer informs the
commander that he could easily communicate with the snake using just his
voice. Commander insists that he NEEDS to video-conference with the snake,
with real-time streaming positional and logistical data on the snake
displayed on video screens to either side. Gives Signal Corps $5 Billion to
make this happen. SigO abuses the 2 smart people in the corps to make it
happen, while everybody else stands around, bitches, and takes credit. In
the end, General Dynamics and several sub-contractors make a few billion
dollars, the 2 smart people get out and go to work for them, and the
commander gets what he asked for only in fiber-optic based simulations. The
snake is forgotten.
|
651|642|2001-10-31 12:41:31|Wes Clopton|Re: Confusion factors|Lee, Is it for the New version, with the new front end and the new drawings
Jim just posted..
At 10:20 AM 10/31/01 -0500, you wrote:
> > ...Now that we are working on the 2n2-40+
> > which has no parts list or explanation guide yet....
>
>Not so! Contact Paul Harden, NA5N at Quicksilver Press for a delightful
>reprint of the original NorCal QRP Club article. It is wire-bound so that
>it will lay open to the desired page easily while you work.
>72 de Lee, KM4YY
>
>You will not become a saint through other people's sins.
> -- Anton Pavlovich Chekhov
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@arrl.net>
>To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 10:03 AM
>Subject: [2n2-40] Confusion factors
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Wes -
No. It covers the original version. You will have to augment it with Jim's
files (photos of schematics) from the website.
Lee
Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom must, like men,
undergo the fatigues of supporting it.
-- Thomas Paine
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@arrl.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Confusion factors
> Lee, Is it for the New version, with the new front end and the new
drawings
> Jim just posted..
>
> At 10:20 AM 10/31/01 -0500, you wrote:
> > > ...Now that we are working on the 2n2-40+
> > > which has no parts list or explanation guide yet....
> >
> >Not so! Contact Paul Harden, NA5N at Quicksilver Press for a delightful
> >reprint of the original NorCal QRP Club article. It is wire-bound so
that
> >it will lay open to the desired page easily while you work.
> >72 de Lee, KM4YY
> >
> >You will not become a saint through other people's sins.
> > -- Anton Pavlovich Chekhov
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@arrl.net>
> >To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> >Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 10:03 AM
> >Subject: [2n2-40] Confusion factors
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
At 10:03 AM 10/31/01 -0500, Wes, W3ERU wrote:
>Jim, Now that we are working on the 2n2-40+
>
>which has no parts list or explanation guide yet.
Wes,
There is now a bill of material document added to the UPDATED
schematics on the Yahoo web site.
> I came upon the RIT schematic and had a attack of
>
>JohnW POT Confusion....Where is POT2 HI or Lo and L1 Hi.
Sorry about that. When the new schematics got drawn, I forgot
that POT2 became POT1. I've since made some changes to both sheet
1 and sheet 4 so that everything is correct, and added some ID
information to POT1 and L1 to show where the RIT ties in. Hopefully,
that will diminish the confusion.
>Also where on the keying circuit could I put a LED to show
>
>when in transmit mode
I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. If you want an LED
to turn on everytime the key is closed, you put one in series with
R61, on the grounded end of that resistor. The LED would light
up as the rig is being keyed.
>..Should R70 have a center detent.
Not a requirement, but I use a center detent pot on my rig.
It helps get the RIT back to the zero offset position.
A final general comment. I removed the schematic sheets that
used the self viewer. Those were rather large, and took to long
for most to download. The PDF versions are much more compact.
I did also update the schematics in the "Photos" section too with
the color versions. A bit nicer on the eyes.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
Many many thanks!
I can't wait to get started on mine.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Confusion factors
> At 10:03 AM 10/31/01 -0500, Wes, W3ERU wrote:
>
>
> >Jim, Now that we are working on the 2n2-40+
> >
> >which has no parts list or explanation guide yet.
>
> Wes,
>
> There is now a bill of material document added to the UPDATED
> schematics on the Yahoo web site.
>
>
> > I came upon the RIT schematic and had a attack of
> >
> >JohnW POT Confusion....Where is POT2 HI or Lo and L1 Hi.
>
> Sorry about that. When the new schematics got drawn, I forgot
> that POT2 became POT1. I've since made some changes to both sheet
> 1 and sheet 4 so that everything is correct, and added some ID
> information to POT1 and L1 to show where the RIT ties in. Hopefully,
> that will diminish the confusion.
>
>
> >Also where on the keying circuit could I put a LED to show
> >
> >when in transmit mode
>
> I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. If you want an LED
> to turn on everytime the key is closed, you put one in series with
> R61, on the grounded end of that resistor. The LED would light
> up as the rig is being keyed.
>
> >..Should R70 have a center detent.
>
> Not a requirement, but I use a center detent pot on my rig.
> It helps get the RIT back to the zero offset position.
>
> A final general comment. I removed the schematic sheets that
> used the self viewer. Those were rather large, and took to long
> for most to download. The PDF versions are much more compact.
> I did also update the schematics in the "Photos" section too with
> the color versions. A bit nicer on the eyes.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I had to make some room for the trimmer, and discovered that I might have
cooked a couple of capacitors...(C10 and C11...melted the lead right off of
one of those guys) So, when I get everything put back together, I'll try
firing it up again...Stay Tuned!
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspStill not working, and I didn't have time at lunch to troubleshoot
completely. Might need to start over...but I will persevere until I get
this thing going!
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspDelbert:
******WARNING! WARNING!*********
I am not an engineer, and I do not play one on TV.
*********************************************
Did you follow the plan as layed out by QRPp article appearing in 1999?
(date?) It is pretty good!! I am not good enough to try and "improvise" on
my own.. (see below)
Did you check for shorts in your transformers/toroids before soldering?
Last year I would wind a toroid and 50% of them would have shorts. I think
the toroids I was using would cut into the enamel wire and cause a short.
Did you recheck to make sure all solder connections were good?
Do you have all components accounted for?
Are some components touching each other and shorting? This is easy to do in
such a tight space
Did you refer to the errata tips here
http://www.qsl.net/k8iqy/2n2errs.html to make sure you got all corrections? I know if you forgot a capacitor here,
a component there, your VFO won't "O" (wink)
Diodes D5, 6 and 7 correctly installed?
Just a few ideas from someone who has been there, and feels your pain!
Someone here can help you, you will get 'er going!
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspActually, the layout I am using is from WJ2V's page:
http://members.aol.com/pdouglas12/vfo2.bmp The schematic doesn't completely agree, but the pad layout seemed to be
okay.
Everything seems to be in place, but as I said, I didn't have time to check
it out thoroughly...I really don't have time to be writing this right now,
but oh, well......
You are right, parts are really close together and something could be
shorted...I will also look for that.
I do have access to a digital camera...I could take pictures...anyone want
to see what one that doesn't work looks like?
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 09:28 PM 10/31/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Still not working, and I didn't have time at lunch to troubleshoot
>completely. Might need to start over...but I will persevere until I get
>this thing going!
>
>Delbert Long, AD6WE
Del,
Anyway you can take a close up picture of the VFO circuitry, with
enough detail that we might be able to help trouble-shoot it
visually? You could post the picture(s) to Yahoo and let the
collective go at it. I'll be we can find the problem!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Okay...I have created an AD6WE folder on the yahoo group page...there are
four photos of my VFO there now.
I am using the 2K ten-turn pot so...R15 is a 1K trimpot in series with a 1k
resistor, set to approx. 1.5 K for now. R1 is two 1K's in parallel to make
500 ohms. Everything else is "stock."
Thanks...I hope my pics are clear enough.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspHello Gang,
I have finished the RX/TX driver and am beginning construction on the VFO. I have some questions about T5 (T6 on old sch.) and transformers in general
1. Does it matter which direction I wind the transformer?
2. Do I need to use the same diameter wire for the primary and secondary windings? ie: can I use 30# wire on the primary and 26# on the secondary?
3. The 2n2/40 Article Corrections on K8IQY's website states "There is a general problem with many of the transformer illustrations in the article (QRPp) in that either the primary or secondary designators are reversed." How can I tell if they are reversed? How do I determine which is the start and which is the fininsh of the winding for the primary and secondary? It appears to me that the start of the secondary is always on the opposite side of the toroid than the primary. Are all of the transformer illustrations in the QRPp article incorrect?
I've tried to figure this out this out by looking at the schematics, but to no avail. I have really managed to confuse myself!! I know these are probably simple questions, but I want to get this straight before I go any further. Thanks in advance for the help.
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
|
662|661|2001-11-01 10:25:25|John Wagner|Re: VFO Transformer Question|I'll take a stab at some of these...
kf4lmz@qsl.net wrote:
>
> Hello Gang,
>
> I have finished the RX/TX driver and am beginning construction on the VFO. I have some questions about T5 (T6 on old sch.) and transformers in general
>
> 1. Does it matter which direction I wind the transformer?
As long as the primary and secondary are both in the same direction, no.
>
> 2. Do I need to use the same diameter wire for the primary and secondary windings? ie: can I use 30# wire on the primary and 26# on the secondary?
No, you can use different size wiring.
>
> 3. The 2n2/40 Article Corrections on K8IQY's website states "There is a general problem with many of the transformer illustrations in the article (QRPp) in that either the primary or secondary designators are reversed." How can I tell if they are reversed? How do I determine which is the start and which is the fininsh of the winding for the primary and secondary? It appears to me that the start of the secondary is always on the opposite side of the toroid than the primary. Are all of the transformer illustrations in the QRPp article incorrect?
This is my take on it;
The primary is numbered 1 and 2. Opposite 1 is the secondaries 3 and the
other end of that is 4. If you look at T2 on page 23 of the QRPp book,
it would be correction if the numbers on the secondary where to be
reversed.
Either side can be the "start" of the primary and the rest of the "pins"
fall into place following the aforementioned scheme.
ASCII art, might not work;
0000
/ 00 \
|| ||
14 32
or
0000
/ 00 \
|| ||
23 41
looking at the bottom;
1 4
\ /
0
/ \
3 2
where 1/2 are the primary and 4/3 is the secondary.
Hope this is correct..(!)
73 de John, N1QO
>
> I've tried to figure this out this out by looking at the schematics, but to no avail. I have really managed to confuse myself!! I know these are probably simple questions, but I want to get this straight before I go any further. Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> 72 de Pat KF4LMZ
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 01:09 AM 11/1/01 +0000, Pat, KF4LMZ wrote:
>Hello Gang,
>
>I have finished the RX/TX driver and am beginning construction on the
>VFO. I have some questions about T5 (T6 on old sch.) and transformers in
>general
>
>1. Does it matter which direction I wind the transformer?
No, electrically it doesn't. But mechanically it might if
you have a layout in mind that requires the leads to come out
at a certain location on the top of bottom of the core. With
some experience, you can foresee which direction you need to wind
to get the leads to come out where you want them. Until then, don't
worry about it.
>2. Do I need to use the same diameter wire for the primary
>and secondary windings?
No, also not necessary.
> ie: can I use 30# wire on the primary and 26# on the secondary?
Yes, I do that sort of thing all the time. It also helps to be
able to easily see which winding is which, as my wire sizes are
different colors.
>3. The 2n2/40 Article Corrections on K8IQY's website states "There is a
>general problem with many of the transformer illustrations in the article
>(QRPp) in that either the primary or secondary designators are
>reversed." How can I tell if they are reversed?
Looking at the diagrams of many of the transformers, you'll see that the
primary is shown with pin 1 and pin 2 as the start and finish of a winding,
but pin 3 should continue on in the same winding direction as pin 2
finished, but pin 3 and pin 4 are reversed in the drawing. The
diagram for T1 is an example of this. In reality, it makes no difference
in the performance or stability of the rig, so don't worry about it.
> How do I determine which is the start and which is the fininsh of the
> winding for the primary and secondary?
The way I put the designators on the transformers is that pin 1 is a
start, pin 2 a finish. Pin 3 a start, pin 4 a finish. Pin 5 a start,
and pin 6 a finish.
> It appears to me that the start of the secondary is always on the
> opposite side of the toroid than the primary.
Well they don't need to be wound that way. In reality, you continue
the secondary winding adjacent to the primary winding. The way,
if you hook it up according to the schematic, the grounded end of the
primary, called the "cold" end is adjacent to the grounded end of the
secondary.
A better way of doing this is to use two strands of wire
in parallel with the strand that will continue on with the winding
with more turns on the outside in the direction you are winding. You
wind both strands together, until you have the number of turns on
for the shorter winding, and continue on with the remainder of the
longer winding. The two adjacent ends at the beginning of the winding
would then become pins 2 and pins 3 of a transformer like T1, and
would be grounded together. The shorter primary winding "finish"
would become pin 1, and the longer secondary "finish" would become
pin 4. However, this method doesn't follow the 1-2, start-finish
convention that I used in the schematic diagrams. It just makes
winding many of the transformers easier, since some of the primary
and secondary winding are going on together.
Maybe it is time to wind up some toroids, take some pictures of
them with the windings labelled, and post them to the 2N2-40
web site on Yahoo. Anybody want me to do that??
> Are all of the transformer illustrations in the QRPp article incorrect?
>
>I've tried to figure this out this out by looking at the schematics, but
>to no avail.
The schematics acutally show the bifilar and trifilar transformers as
they should be wound, following the 1-2, 3-4, 5-6 start-finish
designators I alluded too earlier.
> I have really managed to confuse myself!!
We'll undo that in short order hopefully.
> I know these are probably simple questions, but I want to get this
> straight before I go any further.
They are questions that keep getting asked by builders. Trying to
describe how a transformer was wound isn't easy with just words.
Even good pictures or illstrations can be confusing, if there
is any inconsistency. However, the bottom line is that with
toroids, you can do almost anything, and it will work, since
virtually all of the magnetic flux that couples the windings together
is present everywhere on the toroid.
> Thanks in advance for the help.
Hope what I wrote was useful.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim: (Speaking about winding toroids)
******************************************
>Maybe it is time to wind up some toroids, take some pictures of
>them with the windings labelled, and post them to the 2N2-40
>web site on Yahoo. Anybody want me to do that??
******************************************>
That would be me, Jim!! I'm still a bit confused now and then...(big grin)
I gotta wind my trifilar tonite for the stage 5 detector/RXLO. You know
what, I'm kinda excited about it too!
Put a "yea" in the voting talley from me.....
Anyone else???
Tom
KC0GXX
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp"Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
>However, the bottom line is that with
> toroids, you can do almost anything, and it will work, since
> virtually all of the magnetic flux that couples the windings
together
> is present everywhere on the toroid.
One more question on the VFO T5 (new Schematic.)
Paul Harden's illustration ("VFO" Seq. #2) shows the T5 being wound
with the two windings completely separate.
Actually, I guess the above quote answers my question, but I have
always wound these type of toroids interleaved, that is, I'll put on
the winding that has the most turns first, then from the "ground"
side of that winding, I'll interleave the next winding. For T5, I
wound the primary 16 turns first, next I wound the 8 turn secondary,
and I placed the secondary turns in between the first 8 primary
turns. From your quote above, there is no functional difference in
the way I wind it Vs. Paul Harden's illustration? I would have
thought there would be some difference in the distributed capacitance?
As always Jim, thanks for the elmering.Last night I checked out my vfo voltages and found the following:
VCC-12.36V
Q1: E-3.48 B-4.15 C-6.63V
Q2: E-0 B-0 C-12.36
Q3: E-0 B-0 C-12.36
So I poked around and found a misplaced resistor...had one going to ground
instead of from Q1 Emitter to Q2 Base....fixed THAT and tried again...
This time VCC is 13.77 V (Supply instead of Battery)
Now I get:
Q1 E-3.53 B-4.20 C-6.7
Q2 E-3.13 B-3.78 C-13.77
Q3 E-2.47 B-3.13 C-13.77
STILL no output...
I sure do appreciate all the help.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 05:02 PM 11/1/01 +0000, w6ki wrote:
>"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> >However, the bottom line is that with
> > toroids, you can do almost anything, and it will work, since
> > virtually all of the magnetic flux that couples the windings
>together
> > is present everywhere on the toroid.
>
>One more question on the VFO T5 (new Schematic.)
>
>Paul Harden's illustration ("VFO" Seq. #2) shows the T5 being wound
>with the two windings completely separate.
Yes, that's how it shows in the illustration, but in reality
there isn't the gap between windings. Where the primary
stops, the secondary begins.
>
>
>Actually, I guess the above quote answers my question, but I have
>always wound these type of toroids interleaved, that is, I'll put on
>the winding that has the most turns first, then from the "ground"
>side of that winding, I'll interleave the next winding. For T5, I
>wound the primary 16 turns first, next I wound the 8 turn secondary,
>and I placed the secondary turns in between the first 8 primary
>turns.
Very good question and observation!
Your way is actually better, as the coupling is just a bit tighter,
and is equivalent to the way I do it with two strands of wire,
and wind the common number of turns in one whack. In the case
of T5, I would wind the two strands for 8 turns, and then continue
on with the outside strand for another 8 turns. The windings are
interleaved the same as when they are done separately using your
method.
> From your quote above, there is no functional difference in
>the way I wind it Vs. Paul Harden's illustration?
Very little.
> I would have
>thought there would be some difference in the distributed capacitance?
There is, and that's why doing it with the windings interleaved is
a bit better. But for new builders, just getting the wire on the
core can be enough of a challenge. Adding the complexity of interleaving
two windings will make half of them run off the playing field! :-)
>As always Jim, thanks for the elmering.
Glad it is appreciated. Gotta go wind some toroid examples!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Here's a couple I forgot-maybe they're inconsequential, but here they are
anyway:
D6 (1N4004) Anode - 0.662V
D7 (MVAM109)Cathode - pot fully CW - 6.66V Fully CCW - 0.66V
I STILL appreciate all the help.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspI'd also vote "Yea" on Jim's offer to post some toroid examples.
Jake -- N4UY
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Tom Dufresne" wrote:
> Jim: (Speaking about winding toroids)
> ******************************************
> >Maybe it is time to wind up some toroids, take some pictures of
> >them with the windings labelled, and post them to the 2N2-40
> >web site on Yahoo. Anybody want me to do that??
> ******************************************>
>
> That would be me, Jim!! I'm still a bit confused now and then...
(big grin)
>
> I gotta wind my trifilar tonite for the stage 5 detector/RXLO. You
know
> what, I'm kinda excited about it too!
>
> Put a "yea" in the voting talley from me.....
>
> Anyone else???
>
> Tom
> KC0GXX
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
Just FYI;
The pins on the 2n7000 are as follows;
With the flat side facing you, pins down, left to right, Source, Gate,
Drain.
Updated my website over lunch with the IF Amp, Prod detector and Rx/Lo.
Hoping to have the recv done tonight in time to listen to the QRP-L
foxhunt!
http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/ is the URL.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comDelbert -- AD6WE:
You might check C9. Make sure its 47 pF -- not something smaller (I
sometimes mix up the 4.7 pF caps which are marked 4R7). If C9 is the
correct value you might try increasing it.
The reason I say this is that as I await delivery of the remaining
2N2-40 parts I need, I'm building an "Ugly Weekender". I finished up
the VFO a couple days ago, and got no output. I could not find any
errors in the VFO so, this morning, I built a second one figuring
that the odds were against my messing up the same thing twice in a
row. Again, no output. So I compared the schematics of Jim's 2N2-40
and the Ugly Weekender and saw that the cap at the oscillator's base
(or gate) was 47 pF in the 2N2-40 and 2.7 pF in the Weekender. I
increased the Weekender's cap to 47 pF and everything worked great --
getting 4V P-P. I replaced the 2.7 pF cap in my first Weekender VFO
with a 22 pF cap and again everything works great.
I don't know why this change worked. But it seems to me that since
you have Vcc at your transistors' collectors, then if you have a
complete AC circuit from the emitter to base, you should get
oscillation. Maybe C9 determines the signal level at which Q1
oscillates.
I hope this info helps.
73,
Jake -- N4UY
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Delbert Long" wrote:
> Still not working, and I didn't have time at lunch to troubleshoot
> completely. Might need to start over...but I will persevere until
I get
> this thing going!
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. -
Albert
> Einstein
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
I just put my cap tester across c9 (in the circuit) and I get 670 nanofarads
at that point. Dunno if that is meaningful or not...
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspJohn, I have been looking at your photos, and besides looking so much
shinier than mine, I see the orientation of your VFO is opposite mine. Did
I put mine in backwards (with the output XFMR on the wrong end?)
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspHi Del,
Yours looks to be built opposite of mine, but I don't think it matters
much as you can run hookup wire to the dbm (which is built under the
Rx/Tx driver).
What I try to do is look ahead of each section and see where the next
sections input is and build that way.
Speaking of shiny, whenever I solder after gluing down a pad, I
sometimes get a white film around the pad from the solder smoke. Does
anyone know of an after-the-fact cleaning solution?
73 de John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
>
> John, I have been looking at your photos, and besides looking so much
> shinier than mine, I see the orientation of your VFO is opposite mine. Did
> I put mine in backwards (with the output XFMR on the wrong end?)
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comDid anyone come up with the correct capacitor to use across the T10 that
was sent out in the parts kit? I know I didn't and I'm hoping to get
there tonight...
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI haven't gotten any replies - anyone see anything besides the misplaced
resistor? If I don't find any output today, I think I'm gonna take all the
parts off and try again with a neater layout and check as I go....
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 05:44 PM 11/1/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Here's a couple I forgot-maybe they're inconsequential, but here they are
>anyway:
>
>D6 (1N4004) Anode - 0.662V
>D7 (MVAM109)Cathode - pot fully CW - 6.66V Fully CCW - 0.66V
Those look good. I'm still puzzled a bit though why the
higher voltage isn't near 6.9 volts. You should have a
6.2 v Zener diode in series with the 1N4004 for another
approximate 0.7 volts. Your D6 voltage looks right on
the money, but not the maximum. It's like the 6.2 v
Zener isn't regulating. Puzzling.....
>I STILL appreciate all the help.
And I want you to succeed at building this rig!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:17 PM 11/1/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Did anyone come up with the correct capacitor to use across the T10 that
>was sent out in the parts kit? I know I didn't and I'm hoping to get
>there tonight...
>
>73 de John, N1QO
Don't worry about this capacitor John. It will work fine without
it. If you fell compelled to put something in, I'd try 0.82uF
as a first approximation. That's the value in my two rigs, but
they also use a different transformer. But those audio transformers
ought to be somewhat the same in terms of primary inductance.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 07:29 PM 11/1/01 +0000, you wrote:
>I haven't gotten any replies - anyone see anything besides the misplaced
>resistor? If I don't find any output today, I think I'm gonna take all the
>parts off and try again with a neater layout and check as I go....
>
>Delbert Long, AD6WE
Del,
I've looked, but several of the early photos are not well
enough in focus for my old eyes to see what I want to see.
The last photo shows a resistor with one end connected to
ground and the other maybe going to Q2, the first VFO
transistor. If this is the emitter resistor, is isn't
200 ohms like I think I see, but should be 1K. In fact,
I don't recall any 200 ohm resistors being used in the rig.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I've just uploaded 4 pictures to the Yahoo web site showing two
examples of how to wind a toroid with a primary and secondary
winding. Either method works fine, but I prefer the interlaced, as
it is faster to get both winding on the core. Enjoy, and let me know
if there are other examples you would like to see.
Here is the URL to the photos section:
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/lst 72,
Jim, K8IQY
Okay, There are actually two 1K resistors to ground, one is the emitter of
Q1, and the other is the emitter of Q2/Base of Q3. I do have those
correct...but I look and wonder...is the 10K from base of Q2 supposed to
connect to the emitter of Q1 as well as to the junction of C10/C11? Looks
like it does on my schematic, and that is what I have.
Sorry the pictures were a little fuzzy...maybe too much caffeine
yesterday...I'm drinking decaf now.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspI have isolated D6 (1N4004) and D7 (1N4735) and I get 6.67 volts at cathode
of D6 and 0.647 V at the other end. Isn't that correct? (VCC is 13.8)
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspHi, Mike...
No, I think that it said 670 nanofarads. Seemed a little wierd to me at the
time, but I thought that being "in circuit" it might be off the expected
value. Didn't think that C9 would enter into the picture as parallel, isn't
it in series with the others which are in parallel?
Too late to check it now, I've pulled all the parts off the board and I'm
going to start over. Hopefully do a neater job this time, and check more
carefully as I go along. I didn't have all the parts when I started, and
put them in like a jigsaw puzzle. Big mistake.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspJust a short post to let you all know that I'm
having fun also. I mounted the fixed bandwidth
filter on a daughter board. Some other stages
are started. A few missing parts are impeding
the signals but eventually it will work as
designed. Cause we have a Super Elmer, K8IQY.
73,
Kaye Hartman, K8GZ Lancaster, OH
|
685|685|2001-11-01 22:29:04|John Wagner|rcvr recvring, sort of|Got the audio amp finished and was expecting huge sigs to be jumping
out of the speaker. No dice, back to the bench. After adding all the
parts I missed in my rush finish and moving the connections to their
correct places, I started to hear some noise from the speaker and
when hooked to an antenna I hear CW signals. The volume is very low
though. I changed R40 from a 2.2M to a 1.2M and it's a bit louder,
but not much.
I'm wondering if it's T10? I have a meter that can measure the
inductance across T10, here is what I get;
Primary:
1 ->2(CT) 96mH
2(CT) ->3 96mH
1 -> 3 296mH
Secondary:
4 -> 5 5.1mH
Acceptable?
73 de John, N1QO
|
686|685|2001-11-01 22:39:19|K8GZ@cs.com|Re: rcvr recvring, sort of|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "John Wagner"
wrote:
> Got the audio amp finished
John,
R40 is for the sidetone audio level. Q13 must not be conducting yet.
It is in the mute mode.
Kaye K8GZHi Kaye,
Thanks for the reply.
You're right, what was I thinking! Better put that 2.2M back in there
before I start xmiting!
Q13(old schem) Q11(new), is showing 12v on its collector as is Q12.
I'm just wondering if perhaps I'm expecting too much from the
speaker? I can hear CW, but even with the volume all the way up it's
not blaring. Maybe headphones would be better?
73 de John, N1QO
--- In 2n2-40@y..., K8GZ@c... wrote:
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "John Wagner" wrote:
> > Got the audio amp finished
>
> John,
> R40 is for the sidetone audio level. Q13 must not be conducting
yet.
> It is in the mute mode.
>
> Kaye K8GZ
At 03:29 AM 11/2/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Got the audio amp finished and was expecting huge sigs to be jumping
>out of the speaker. No dice, back to the bench. After adding all the
>parts I missed in my rush finish and moving the connections to their
>correct places, I started to hear some noise from the speaker and
>when hooked to an antenna I hear CW signals. The volume is very low
>though. I changed R40 from a 2.2M to a 1.2M and it's a bit louder,
>but not much.
Sounds like the Rx line isn't connected to the gate of the 2N7000
via the bias resistor setup. If that's true, you are hearing signals
with the 2N7000 turn off, not on. They would be quite weak, as that
is the mode the 2N7000 is in during transmit.
>I'm wondering if it's T10? I have a meter that can measure the
>inductance across T10, here is what I get;
>
>Primary:
>1 ->2(CT) 96mH
>2(CT) ->3 96mH
>1 -> 3 296mH
>
>Secondary:
>4 -> 5 5.1mH
>
>Acceptable?
Don't know, but will do some checking tomorrow. Offhand, sounds
in the ballpark to me.
72 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
I am getting the placement for stage VI in order. For the RX mute, I
am going to use the old scheme per the QRPp article. I'm too weary to
try the new one... Argh! Will I lose much? BTW, (sheepish grin) ahh,
what is a rcvr mute? Why do I need it? Anyway, I digress.......
The transformer I have from Mouser (1200CT-8) is big! (relatively
speaking)
The xformer is wound with six wires! I was expecting only 5 (stupid
me) I assume the blue, white, red ones are the primaries, (there is
a "P" on that side-See I'm getting better)The secondaries, I assume
are Blue, yellow, and green. Primaries are 1200, right? So the
secondaries must be 8 ohms.
Question: Why do the secondaries have three wires? Which two do I
use, and what do I do with the extra one?Tom
KC0GXX
|
690|428|2001-11-02 00:13:10|camqrp@cyberg8t.com|100 uH inductors|Group-
The 100 uH coils have come in, so now it's time to disperse them
amongst the needy.
Here's the deal:
Some of you wanted 3 coils. Send me $1.00 (a dollar bill is
preferable to, say, a hundred pennies) and an address label, and I'll
mail them to you.
Some of you wanted 10 coils. Send me $3.00 (same admonition applies)
and a label.
Some of you are way over the big pond. I haven't figured out how to
send them to you yet, but when I do, I'll e-mail you with the details.
Meanwhile keep melting that solder.
I got sidetracked last weekend and built one of Wes Hayward's Micro
Mountaineers for ten meters. I had one QSO with it already, which is
great considering that ten is pretty well gone by the time I get home
from work. Looks like a neat little radio.
Cheers,
Cam N6GA
|
691|685|2001-11-02 08:23:24|John Wagner|Re: rcvr recvring, sort of|"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> At 03:29 AM 11/2/01 +0000, you wrote:
> >Got the audio amp finished and was expecting huge sigs to be jumping
> >out of the speaker. No dice, back to the bench. After adding all the
> >parts I missed in my rush finish and moving the connections to their
> >correct places, I started to hear some noise from the speaker and
> >when hooked to an antenna I hear CW signals. The volume is very low
> >though. I changed R40 from a 2.2M to a 1.2M and it's a bit louder,
> >but not much.
>
> Sounds like the Rx line isn't connected to the gate of the 2N7000
> via the bias resistor setup. If that's true, you are hearing signals
> with the 2N7000 turn off, not on. They would be quite weak, as that
> is the mode the 2N7000 is in during transmit.
>
I shorted the resistor across the 2n7000 and there was no change. I'm
wondering if I didn't mess up T9 (a trifilar). Everything else seems to
check out. I'll keep looking, learned a lot already troubleshooting this
problem.
73 de John, N1QO
> 72 and thanks for the update,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comCam -
What is your snail mail address? I'll take 10.
73 de Lee, KM4YY
Going to church doesn't make you a Christian any more than going to a
garage makes you a car.
-- Laurence J. Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: <camqrp@cyberg8t.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 12:13 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] 100 uH inductors
> Group-
>
> The 100 uH coils have come in, so now it's time to disperse them
> amongst the needy.
>
> Here's the deal:
>
> Some of you wanted 3 coils. Send me $1.00 (a dollar bill is
> preferable to, say, a hundred pennies) and an address label, and I'll
> mail them to you.
>
> Some of you wanted 10 coils. Send me $3.00 (same admonition applies)
> and a label.
I'd like three Cam. Thanks, $ on the way.
-Mac-
AF4PS
|
694|694|2001-11-02 11:45:40|Wes Clopton|LOST YESTERDAY|Would someone like to host "Murphy" for a while.
He's worn out his welcome here.
My computer went south yesterday, smoked the motherboard.
Dont know why and don't care....I wanted a new motherboard and upgrade.
So next week Ill be faster and better, as soon as I install the upgrade
But I lost yesterday..Thats a strange feeling when you lose a day.
You dont know what everyone did.
But I see JohnW is really steaming on his build page.
How do you do it, I just dont understand....no solder
splatters...mistakes...no glue
smears, unbelieable....Good Job
Wes
|
695|695|2001-11-02 12:26:09|tdufres@hotmail.com|Question on T10|I am getting the placement for stage VI in order.
The transformer I have from Mouser (1200CT-8) is big! (relatively
speaking)
The xformer is wound with six wires! I was expecting only 5 (stupid
me) I assume the blue, white, red ones are the primaries, (there is
a "P" on that side-See I'm getting better)The secondaries, I assume
are Blue, yellow, and green. Primaries are 1200, right? So the
secondaries must be 8 ohms.
Question: Why do the secondaries have three wires? Which two do I
use, and what do I do with the extra one?
Tom
KC0GXX
|
696|695|2001-11-02 13:15:08|John Wagner|Re: Question on T10|This is a guess;
Is there possibly a center tap in the secondary? Use your ohm meter and
check the resistance on the secondary wires. The two with the most
resistance would be the ones you want. The resistance between the other
wire and either of the two you worked out to be "ends" should be half.
73 de John, N1QO
tdufres@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> I am getting the placement for stage VI in order.
>
> The transformer I have from Mouser (1200CT-8) is big! (relatively
> speaking)
>
> The xformer is wound with six wires! I was expecting only 5 (stupid
> me) I assume the blue, white, red ones are the primaries, (there is
> a "P" on that side-See I'm getting better)The secondaries, I assume
> are Blue, yellow, and green. Primaries are 1200, right? So the
> secondaries must be 8 ohms.
>
> Question: Why do the secondaries have three wires? Which two do I
> use, and what do I do with the extra one?
> Tom
> KC0GXX
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWell gang I stayed up WAY too late messing around the recvr last night.
Didn't come up with anything significant. It seems to recv OK, but I'm
concerned with the lack of white noise in the speaker. Some signals are
pretty loud, some aren't. I'm expecting it to be so load with the volume
turned all the way up that it's uncomfortable, but it isn't.
So I ask you folks with completed radios; somehow, describe how loud
yours is!
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThanks Wes,
Here's my secret; learn how to cover your mistakes. ;) There are a
solder splatters on mine, even one spot where I ripped up the copper
clad (grrrr) - I usually manage to find a way to put a pad over the
problem though.
73 de John, N1QO
Wes Clopton wrote:
>
> Would someone like to host "Murphy" for a while.
> He's worn out his welcome here.
> My computer went south yesterday, smoked the motherboard.
> Dont know why and don't care....I wanted a new motherboard and upgrade.
> So next week Ill be faster and better, as soon as I install the upgrade
> But I lost yesterday..Thats a strange feeling when you lose a day.
> You dont know what everyone did.
> But I see JohnW is really steaming on his build page.
> How do you do it, I just dont understand....no solder
> splatters...mistakes...no glue
> smears, unbelieable....Good Job
>
> Wes
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWell, after a busy week at work, bad head cold, etc. I will be ready to check out III tonite. Took me a while to figure out how to "island" the new RF amp design. Finally decided to seperate the DBM to a smaller board (so I can experiment with it later) and the voltages seem right. Sooo, smoke test tonite and on to IV! Been missing working on it, but other priorities were there! 'Sides, have to ease the new G/F into all of this..hi hi.. don't want to run her off!
72
Dennis
P.S. - Beautiful job on the torrids in the pics! Wish I could wind like that..
|
700|697|2001-11-02 14:28:42|Delbert Long|Re: how loud?|Never actually heard one, but when Mike showed us his at the TRW swapmeet,
he did say that it was so quiet that you might not think it is on without a
signal in the speaker/phones. Can't wait to get mine to that point.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspYes, this is the truth, very low noise. Sigs just sorta jump out of the nothingness as you tune. This seems to be a "feature" of Manhattan style building. I built my first 2n2-40 with TONS of help from Jim and from Bob WA8UOJ Engleman, back when the NorCal bunch featured it. The West FL QRP guys measured the thing's RX sensitivity better than -125db. Now I'm doing another with all the mods and updated circuits. I can also adjust some of the sections where building got kinda tight.
Jim, - and anyone else - Diz used double-sided tape to secure the wound toroids down horizontally on the Flying Pig MP-20 rig. It takes some more space but sure is sturdy! Would you comment on the pros and cons of this -vs- simply mounting vertically on the tinned leads?
-MAC-
AF4PS
In a message dated Fri, 2 Nov 2001 2:35:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Delbert Long" <
AD6WE@hotmail.com> writes:
> Never actually heard one, but when Mike showed us his at the TRW swapmeet,
> he did say that it was so quiet that you might not think it is on without a
> signal in the speaker/phones. Can't wait to get mine to that point.
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner
wrote:
> So I ask you folks with completed radios; somehow, describe how loud
> yours is!
>
Mine's pretty darn loud, John. Very strong signals overdrive the audio
amp into distortion; in such cases I have to ride the RF gain pot.
I've typically used the rig with headphones, which is my preferred
style of operating. I have tried it with an old Motorola mobile
speaker I've got lying around and it drives it fine. Loads of audio
from old #20.
72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJAt 09:37 PM 11/1/01 +0000, Delbert Long, AD6WE wrote:
>Okay, There are actually two 1K resistors to ground, one is the emitter of
>Q1, and the other is the emitter of Q2/Base of Q3. I do have those
>correct...but I look and wonder...is the 10K from base of Q2 supposed to
>connect to the emitter of Q1 as well as to the junction of C10/C11?
Yes, that's the correct hookup.
> Looks
>like it does on my schematic, and that is what I have.
OK...then that's wired correctly. I couldn't see all of that
on the photos.
>Sorry the pictures were a little fuzzy...maybe too much caffeine
>yesterday...I'm drinking decaf now.
I think it was more of the camera not being able to take closeups
and be in focus at the same time.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 11:32 PM 11/1/01 +0000, Delbert Long, AD6WE wrote:
>I have isolated D6 (1N4004) and D7 (1N4735) and I get 6.67 volts at cathode
>of D6 and 0.647 V at the other end. Isn't that correct? (VCC is 13.8)
It's close. A 1N4735 is a 6.2 volt Zener, so you should be seeing
that value plus the drop across D6 added to it if you measure the
cathode of D5 relative to ground. Your measurements are showing
the Zener to be at 6.0 volts, not 6.2 as it is rated. That could
indicate that we're drawing too much current from the junction of
R1 and D5. BTW, D7 is the varicap diode, not the 6.2 volt Zener,
so I hope your comments were an oversight, not the way the VFO
was built.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:06 AM 11/2/01 +0000, John, N1QO wrote:
>Hi Kaye,
>
>Thanks for the reply.
>
>You're right, what was I thinking! Better put that 2.2M back in there
>before I start xmiting!
>
>Q13(old schem) Q11(new), is showing 12v on its collector as is Q12.
That's correct. Both of those collectors are close to the supply
voltage, since the primary winding doesn't drop a whole lot of
DC voltage.
>I'm just wondering if perhaps I'm expecting too much from the
>speaker?
I get plenty of volume from my rig. Typically, an S9 signal
will require the volume to be at 1/4 to 1/3 open for good
listening.
> I can hear CW, but even with the volume all the way up it's
>not blaring. Maybe headphones would be better?
Doesn't sound like you are getting full volume, or the station
you were listening to was quite weak. The whole receiver is
very quiet, much more than a typical commercial rig, due to the
all analog design, and building over a groundplane. So that
might also be some of what you are hearing.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:23 AM 11/2/01 +0000, Tom, KC0GXX wrote:
>I am getting the placement for stage VI in order. For the RX mute, I
>am going to use the old scheme per the QRPp article. I'm too weary to
>try the new one... Argh!
I'd rather see you build the 2N7000 design. There is quite a bit
better performance with the FET than the original design with
the PN2222.
> Will I lose much? BTW,
A lot more pronounced "thump" between receive and transmit and back
with the PN2222 design. It works about as good as you can get with
a bipolar transistor, but nothing like the quiet switching possible
with a good FET.
> (sheepish grin) ahh,
>what is a rcvr mute? Why do I need it? Anyway, I digress.......
Let's talk about that for a moment. The way this rig works, (which
is common for many QRP rigs) is that it listens to its own transmit
signal for sidetone. When the transmitter is on, the audio level
coming out of the speaker would be deafening, if it weren't for some
circuitry to automatically reduce the receive volumn during transmit.
That's the function of the Receive Mute circuitry. It acts like
an audio attenuator, or automatic volume control during transmit,
to limit the sidetone audio level to approximately the same as when
listening to a reasonably strong signal. It follows the keying
of the transmitter, so you can ideally hear the other station
between transmitted characters. We call that QSK operation.
>The transformer I have from Mouser (1200CT-8) is big! (relatively
>speaking)
>
>The xformer is wound with six wires! I was expecting only 5 (stupid
>me) I assume the blue, white, red ones are the primaries, (there is
>a "P" on that side-See I'm getting better)The secondaries, I assume
>are Blue, yellow, and green. Primaries are 1200, right? So the
>secondaries must be 8 ohms.
Yes, that's correct so far.
>Question: Why do the secondaries have three wires?
The 8 ohm side is also center tapped, just like the primary.
> Which two do I
>use, and what do I do with the extra one?
You use the pair with the highest ohmmeter reading. That will
probably be the outside pair. The middle lead is probably the
center tap. Just bend it up out of the way, or cut it off. But
make sure it doesn't get shorted. That will play hob with the
audio output level.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
At 02:22 PM 11/2/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>Well gang I stayed up WAY too late messing around the recvr last night.
New receivers have a habit of doing that to its builder.
>Didn't come up with anything significant. It seems to recv OK, but I'm
>concerned with the lack of white noise in the speaker. Some signals are
>pretty loud, some aren't. I'm expecting it to be so load with the volume
>turned all the way up that it's uncomfortable, but it isn't.
It may be the speaker that you are using. I'm rather partial
to the MFJ "Clear Tone" speakers (MFJ-281 model). They seem to
be very efficient, and have lots of output for little drive, and
sound really good on CW and SSB.
>So I ask you folks with completed radios; somehow, describe how loud
>yours is!
An S9 signal on mine at full volume will make you leave the room,
unless you are quite hard of hearing.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:25 PM 11/2/01 -0500, -MAC- AF4PS, wrote:
>Yes, this is the truth, very low noise. Sigs just sorta jump out of the
>nothingness as you tune. This seems to be a "feature" of Manhattan style
>building.
And all analog designs, without synthesizer and microprocessor
noise.
>I built my first 2n2-40 with TONS of help from Jim and from Bob WA8UOJ
>Engleman, back when the NorCal bunch featured it. The West FL QRP guys
>measured the thing's RX sensitivity better than -125db. Now I'm doing
>another with all the mods and updated circuits. I can also adjust some of
>the sections where building got kinda tight.
Yup....I remember some of those emails, and have all of them
in the 2N2/40 archives.
>Jim, - and anyone else - Diz used double-sided tape to secure the wound
>toroids down horizontally on the Flying Pig MP-20 rig. It takes some more
>space but sure is sturdy! Would you comment on the pros and cons of this
>-vs- simply mounting vertically on the tinned leads?
If you mount them horizontally, make sure they are held above the
copper surface by 3/32 to 1/8 inch. While in theory, the magnetic
flux is all in the toroid, some of it actually isn't, and putting
the toroid down against the copper surface will severely interfere
with the winding inductance and Q. I use #8 nylon shouldered washers
for those T50 size that are horizontal, but usually put the T37 size
vertically, mounted by their leads. If I layed those down, I'd be
using 1/8 inch thick double sided tape for mounting them.
That's my take on your question Mac.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
You are correct, it was an oversight - I meant "D5." I'll check it out
again, and make sure everything is okay. Is 500 or fewer ohms too low for
R1? I was going to put in a 470 as you suggested earlier instead of the two
1K's in parallel that I had before.
Also, just in case I roasted some capacitors taking things off, I went out
for some more, is a silver mica okay for C8?
How precise do the trimmers need to be? Locally I found some 6 - 80pF for
$2.00 and some 9 - 50pf for $1.05. Easy to decide which I would prefer!
Delbert Long, AD6WE
A 1N4735 is a 6.2 volt Zener, so you should be seeing
>that value plus the drop across D6 added to it if you measure the
>cathode of D5 relative to ground. Your measurements are showing
>the Zener to be at 6.0 volts, not 6.2 as it is rated. That could
>indicate that we're drawing too much current from the junction of
>R1 and D5. BTW, D7 is the varicap diode, not the 6.2 volt Zener,
>so I hope your comments were an oversight.....
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 11:22 PM 11/2/01 +0000, Delbert Long, AD6WE wrote:
>You are correct, it was an oversight - I meant "D5." I'll check it out
>again, and make sure everything is okay. Is 500 or fewer ohms too low for
>R1?
No, not at all.
> I was going to put in a 470 as you suggested earlier instead of the two
>1K's in parallel that I had before.
470 is a good value for R1. That should supply about 15 milliamps
through D5 and D6, with about 3 milliamps of that going off to
your 2K tuning pot.
>Also, just in case I roasted some capacitors taking things off, I went out
>for some more, is a silver mica okay for C8?
Yes, that will work fine.
>How precise do the trimmers need to be? Locally I found some 6 - 80pF for
>$2.00 and some 9 - 50pf for $1.05. Easy to decide which I would prefer!
9-50 will work just fine. You might have to add 20-30 pF of fixed
capacitance across them if they don't tune the circuit they are in, but
that's not a big deal.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I have triple checked (and then some) my rig and can't figure out why I
have low audio volume. I tried a different speaker, checked all the
2n2222's voltages, everything seems to be correct.
I built Joe's Quicky #1
http://www.njqrp.org/quickies/quickie1.html thinking it might be useful, but I'm not sure what I'm doing with it. I
tried injecting the signal into the audio amp and followed it through -
again, not sure what I'm looking for here.
Any suggestions appreciated.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comOK, the key to using the circuit from Joe's Quicky #1 is to build
correctly so the signal you're looking at is the one coming from the
oscillator and not somewhere else. After this important step has been
done...
Inject the signal into the input of your amp. Go to the other end of the
amp and see that it's been amplified (didn't bother to measure, it's a
lot).
So, the audio amp was OK.
I decided to inject an RF signal from my heath RF Generator and follow
it through the rig (should have done this a few days ago, but...). It
seemed to get lost just after the RF amp. Hmmm... rechecked everything,
parts in correct place, correct parts... turned out it was a bad solder
joint on Q4, 'cause after reheating it (and a few others), I've got big
audio!
Probably helps that it's a contest weekend too 'eh? But no kidding,
there is enough volume on that thing to fill the room.
Yeeeeehah!
Off to build the xmiter next week and hopefully get it on the air!
73 de John, N1QO
John Wagner wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> I have triple checked (and then some) my rig and can't figure out why I
> have low audio volume. I tried a different speaker, checked all the
> 2n2222's voltages, everything seems to be correct.
>
> I built Joe's Quicky #1 http://www.njqrp.org/quickies/quickie1.html
> thinking it might be useful, but I'm not sure what I'm doing with it. I
> tried injecting the signal into the audio amp and followed it through -
> again, not sure what I'm looking for here.
>
> Any suggestions appreciated.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGang,
Schematic 4 had a small error on it. It was showing the RIT
connected to A and B of POT1. That isn't correct, it connects
to A and C of POT1. That schematic, (sheet 4) has been revised
and reloaded on the Yahoo web site. Hope that error didn't
cause anybody grief.
A question was asked by one of the group regarding the use of
B on POT1. It isn't used as a connection for anything else, but
was labelled for consistency. However, that got me in trouble,
as I was drawing and labelling without thinking. It happens more
and more. Can't imagine what I'll be like in another 10 years.
I wouldn't trust any of my designs at that point!! :-)
72 and "build on",
Jim, K8IQY
|
714|711|2001-11-03 17:18:14|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: still low audio (NOT)|At 06:03 PM 11/3/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>OK, the key to using the circuit from Joe's Quicky #1 is to build
>correctly so the signal you're looking at is the one coming from the
>oscillator and not somewhere else. After this important step has been
>done...
>
>Inject the signal into the input of your amp. Go to the other end of the
>amp and see that it's been amplified (didn't bother to measure, it's a
>lot).
>
>So, the audio amp was OK.
A valuable lesson there John for others to follow. Checking each
stage can be invaluable, and you don't always have to have a fancy
piece of test equipment. A "Joe's Quickie Audio Oscillator" can
be most helpful.
>I decided to inject an RF signal from my heath RF Generator and follow
>it through the rig (should have done this a few days ago, but...). It
>seemed to get lost just after the RF amp. Hmmm... rechecked everything,
>parts in correct place, correct parts... turned out it was a bad solder
>joint on Q4, 'cause after reheating it (and a few others), I've got big
>audio!
Another good lession in trouble shooting. eBay is full of used
signal generators costing a few dollars for an old Heath RF generator,
to megabucks for some of the fancy stuff. A VE3DNL RF generator is
also very useful for generating a know source of RF for checking out
the front-end of a receiver. While the fancy stuff is nice to have,
it isn't necessary for finding a host of common problems with home
brewed gear. Even a simple crystal oscillator on the band where your
rig will operate will work fine.
>Probably helps that it's a contest weekend too 'eh? But no kidding,
>there is enough volume on that thing to fill the room.
Those words are magic to my ears John. Sounds like it is working
like it is designed now.
72 and thanks for the feedback,
Jim, K8IQY
If you need a simple RF generator to check out stage II of your 2N2-
40, check out the Crystal Oscillator on page 88 of the Elecraft K1
manual. The manual is at:
http://www.elecraft.com Click on "Manual Downloads" and then select the K1 manual -- Adobe
Acrobat comes up and the first page of the manual appears. You don't
need to download the whole manual. I went to the last page and
worked back to page 88 -- then I printed out only page 88.
You need a 40m crystal to plug into the oscillator.
I built this little circuit a while back and have used it to figure
out where several of my little homebrew receivers were receiving --
sometimes I just can't figure out where the heck I am on the bands if
I using whatever sigs are out there.
Good Luck,
Jake -- N4UY
Gang,
I'm in the process of building the VFO. TC3 is supposed to be 3-10pF and TC4 8-50pF. Would it be OK to use a 3-36pF for TC3 and a 8-150pF for TC4? I have those values in my junk box. Also, the 8-150pF variable cap has 3 leads. Can anyone tell me what the third lead is for? If I can use this cap, should the third lead go to ground? Thanks in advance for the help and answers to my many questions!!
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
|
717|716|2001-11-04 15:40:13|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: TC3 & TC4 Question|At 07:46 PM 11/4/01 +0000, Pat KF4LMZ wrote:
>Gang,
>
>I'm in the process of building the VFO. TC3 is supposed to be 3-10pF and
>TC4 8-50pF. Would it be OK to use a 3-36pF for TC3 and a 8-150pF for TC4?
Absolutely! Those values will work fine.
> I have those values in my junk box.
Use 'em.......
> Also, the 8-150pF variable cap has 3 leads. Can anyone tell me what
> the third lead is for?
Two are common, probably the end the would normally get grounded,
and the third is the other end of the trimmer, or it is the other
way around, two of the other end, and one to ground.
> If I can use this cap, should the third lead go to ground?
Find out what it is connected to, and make them the same.
> Thanks in advance for the help and answers to my many questions!!
Not a problem, and good luck with the VFO build.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
Got a ? about the RIT schematic. I know it is on (I think) the new sheet one, but I can't see it clear enuf from home here (on WEBTV at home, have a puter at work..hi hi)
So, what is the "pinouts" for POT 1, i.e. is A = High, B= Wiper, etc.? Sorry to ask this but cant get a clear enuf view of the schematic and I dont go back to work until Tuesday nite. Need my rosin fix!
72
Dennis
|
719|713|2001-11-04 16:40:51|wb0wao@yahoo.com|Re: Schematic 4 error correction|Jim,
Got a ? about the RIT schematic. I know it is on (I think) the new sheet one, but I can't see it clear enuf from home here (on WEBTV at home, have a puter at work..hi hi)
So, what is the "pinouts" for POT 1, i.e. is A = High, B= Wiper, etc.? Sorry to ask this but cant get a clear enuf view of the schematic and I dont go back to work until Tuesday nite. Need my rosin fix!
72
Dennis
|
720|720|2001-11-04 19:47:48|Kevin Murphy, KC8SFJ|No recieved Signal|Gang,
I am having a problem with my project. I have built up to and
including the audio output stage. The problem is I have no recieved
audio. The audio output stage works, I think. I used Joe's
Quickie's audio oscilator to test it.
I haven't been able to test anything since the VFO, 'cause I have no
RF signal Gen. I could build the one from the elcraft manual, or the
one on the QRP-l list that was just posted, problem is, I don't have
a 40meter crystal to get it in the band.
I have a bunch of 20, 13.5, 7.362, 3.9545, etc. none in the 40 meter
band. Is there a way to build an oscilator that will work on 40
meters without a crystal?
I still have to test the RF amp, IF amp, and
product detector. The LO works, as I recieve a strong signal on
4.915 Mhz with my Kenwood R-2000.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|
721|720|2001-11-04 20:18:58|TC Dufresne|Re: No recieved Signal|Kevin:
Did you test stage three? I think you can test it without a signal
generator. I used a QRP HW-8 for the initial test (set to 7.050mHz) You set
a rcvr at 4.915mHz, set the VFO to midfreq, about 2.135mHZ, and key the rig.
You will hear the note on your rcvr! You can then leave the RCVR at
4.915mHz, and connect the antenna to "8" RCV ant in", and you can listen to
the 7.000 to 7.100mHz CW band! very cool.
If you do NOT have a way to generate a sig, I think you can skip that part
and just do the last part. Its a pretty good test for the "front end" stage
3.
Then , if that is kosher, you can power up your xtal filter, stage IV. That
should make another good statement!
**WARNING!!**
If you are following along with the QRPp book, make SURE you reverse the
wires that attach to "W8" and "W9". Please refer to the corrections addendum
found on Jim's website
http://www.qsl.net/k8iqy/2n2errs.html If If your VFO works, and you've checked your RX amp stage VI, then doesn't
the problem pretty much have to be in your stage III front end or stage IV
filter? Check for cold connections, toroid mistakes, gounded wires that
shouldn't be grounded...etc.
Good luck!
Tom
Kevin et al,
Doug Hendricks sells a 7040 and a 7122 for $5 each on the Norcal website.
FYI
73
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Murphy, KC8SFJ" <adverseyaw@bigfoot.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2001 7:47 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] No recieved Signal
> Gang,
> I am having a problem with my project. I have built up to and
> including the audio output stage. The problem is I have no recieved
> audio. The audio output stage works, I think. I used Joe's
> Quickie's audio oscilator to test it.
> I haven't been able to test anything since the VFO, 'cause I have no
> RF signal Gen. I could build the one from the elcraft manual, or the
> one on the QRP-l list that was just posted, problem is, I don't have
> a 40meter crystal to get it in the band.
> I have a bunch of 20, 13.5, 7.362, 3.9545, etc. none in the 40 meter
> band. Is there a way to build an oscilator that will work on 40
> meters without a crystal?
>
> I still have to test the RF amp, IF amp, and
> product detector. The LO works, as I recieve a strong signal on
> 4.915 Mhz with my Kenwood R-2000.
> Any suggestions?
> Thanks,
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Just finishing up the RX mute, noticed the new schematics and values.
The new values are R31 (now called R40) 2.2M, was 1M
C35 (now called C43) is 10uF, was 1uF. Is that correct?
Do I still need to change out C67 in Rx/Tx from a 4.7uF electrolytic
to .22uF?
>Thanks
>Tom
>
At 09:34 PM 11/4/01 +0000, Dennis, WB0WAO wrote:
>Jim,
> Got a ? about the RIT schematic. I know it is on (I think) the new
> sheet one, but I can't see it clear enuf from home here (on WEBTV at
> home, have a puter at work..hi hi)
Well actually, the RIT circuitry itself is on sheet 4. The connections
to which it connects are on sheet 1.
>So, what is the "pinouts" for POT 1, i.e. is A = High, B= Wiper, etc.?
Yes, that's correct. A is the top of POT1 with the highest voltage,
B is the wiper, and C is the bottom of POT1 with the lowest voltage.
D is the hot end of inductor L1. Those 4 designators on shown on sheet
1, which has the VFO circuitry and other parts of the receiver, and on
sheet 4 which has the Rx/Tx driver, Rx T/R, power and RIT circuits.
> Sorry to ask this but cant get a clear enuf view of the schematic and I
> dont go back to work until Tuesday nite. Need my rosin fix!
I undestand, especially about going back to work! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Well Murphy wont go away..I have not received any
posting for this build in three days. I think my
alternate ISP is down..Hope to catch up.soon...
Wes.
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> Thanks Wes,
>
> Here's my secret; learn how to cover your mistakes. ;) There are a
> solder splatters on mine, even one spot where I ripped up the copper
> clad (grrrr) - I usually manage to find a way to put a pad over the
> problem though.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> Wes Clopton wrote:
> >
> > Would someone like to host "Murphy" for a while.
> > He's worn out his welcome here.
> > My computer went south yesterday, smoked the motherboard.
> > Dont know why and don't care....I wanted a new motherboard and
upgrade.
> > So next week Ill be faster and better, as soon as I install the
upgrade
> > But I lost yesterday..Thats a strange feeling when you
lose a day.
> > You dont know what everyone did.
> > But I see JohnW is really steaming on his build page.
> > How do you do it, I just dont understand....no solder
> > splatters...mistakes...no glue
> > smears, unbelieable....Good Job
> >
> > Wes
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@w...
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
I wanted to pass along that I rebuilt the VFO along the Emitter and
Base of Q2 (old) and while I was at it I replaced the transistor itself
for good measure. I now can hear the VFO tune from 2.000 to 2.074. I
will work on getting the range correct later as it feels good just to
savor that it is working at the moment :-).
Bad New is that I just found out that the Radio I borrowed for testing
the VFO does not cover 4.915 for testing stage 3 and 4. Oh Well, I will
worry about that later, after all my VFO works...
Thank you Jim for pointing me in the direction of the problem.
James Wayne Rue
KC5HAC
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Hey that's great James!
Yeah, it's a great fealing when the VFO comes alive, I can definitely
appreciate that. Keep at it!
73 de John, N1QO
james-rhonda@juno.com wrote:
>
> I wanted to pass along that I rebuilt the VFO along the Emitter and
> Base of Q2 (old) and while I was at it I replaced the transistor itself
> for good measure. I now can hear the VFO tune from 2.000 to 2.074. I
> will work on getting the range correct later as it feels good just to
> savor that it is working at the moment :-).
> Bad New is that I just found out that the Radio I borrowed for testing
> the VFO does not cover 4.915 for testing stage 3 and 4. Oh Well, I will
> worry about that later, after all my VFO works...
> Thank you Jim for pointing me in the direction of the problem.
>
> James Wayne Rue
> KC5HAC
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comIT CRANKS!!!!! This thing is everything I expected, and more! There
is so little "white" noise, and it just really works well! Stations
just BOOM in!!
I was building tonite, and got a bit hung up on the newer Rx mute
stage. I think I got that, then started running wires and power and
stuff. I took my time, and made it look neat. (I think I was stalling-
I get so nervous when I first hook these rigs up!!!
Anyway, all wires checked, reviewed schematics, yup, it looks good.
OK time to drag 'er out to the station.
Hook up everything, making sure I am fused-looks good. OK, well, I
hear a nice background sound-thats good, but nothing else.. Hmmm.
Well, lets check the RX LO. OK thats working FB.... Nice tone at
4.915mHz... Hmmm.. WAIT!!! I think I know! I was gonna use some
coax.... where was that.... OH yeah, I remember now....The connection
between stage IV and V was gonna be a coax.. Check... Yup, "nuthin'
there but air"... Missed that one..DUH!!!!! Ya think?!?! Back to the
workbench!
OK OK take your time Tom, it's just a stupid radio .... OK
Nice! That was about a two inch run of RG-174... Got that technique
DOWN!! Ok ok, grounded on one end only, don't want ground loops (I
thought only poor pilots did that-ground loops that is.. Hmmm..) Nice
job! (grin)
Back to the station... Nothing yet, lets try the tuner, maybe I'm at
the edge... Wait, what was that.... YES!!! CW!! IT IS ALIVE.. AND NO
DX-398 this time, baby.. It's all you!!!! Wow! Nice tone too, lets
check the RF gain-Wow!That blows my ears off! How about that filter-
ahhh-sweet filter. Yup, she's working like a champ....Let's see if I
can "filter out" that other station while listening to the first...
Yup! Wow! Even my HW-8 can't come close to that. That is really cool!
HAPPY DANCE!!!!!!
Read... read....Hmmm.
Wait, what's that about "alignment"? What is that? This thing works
great. Why do I need "alignment"? I'm not quite sure how/why I do
that... I can fiddle with TC5, but I am not quite sure what it is I
am trying to do, even after reading "RVCR ALIGNMENT" on pg 32...
Help?
Tom
|
729|428|2001-11-04 23:38:40|camqrp@cyberg8t.com|100 uH inductors|Group-
Sorry about that. I neglected to include my snail mail address in my
post about the inductors last Thursday, then promptly took off for
NorCal for the weekend.
Send money here-
Cam Hartford N6GA
1959 Bridgeport Ave.
Claremont CA 91711
TNX,
Cam
|
730|730|2001-11-05 06:19:47|hubert.smits@btinternet.com|Scotland is sniffing solder!|Gang,
Over the weekend I managed to start building. The TxRx switch went
fine. The VFO was much more difficult. Specially if you leave the big
bits (trimmer cap) to put in last. But it went all on the board.
Hopefully I find time to test tonight. If anybody is interested in my
efforts then look at the MM0GMM folder in the piccies section.
This is fun!
72 de Hubert MM0GMM
|
731|726|2001-11-05 07:14:20|John Wagner|Re: VFO fixed|s/fealing/feeling/ - ouch.
Use the spell checker, use the spell checker...
John Wagner wrote:
>
> Hey that's great James!
>
> Yeah, it's a great fealing when the VFO comes alive, I can definitely
> appreciate that. Keep at it!
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> james-rhonda@juno.com wrote:
> >
> > I wanted to pass along that I rebuilt the VFO along the Emitter and
> > Base of Q2 (old) and while I was at it I replaced the transistor itself
> > for good measure. I now can hear the VFO tune from 2.000 to 2.074. I
> > will work on getting the range correct later as it feels good just to
> > savor that it is working at the moment :-).
> > Bad New is that I just found out that the Radio I borrowed for testing
> > the VFO does not cover 4.915 for testing stage 3 and 4. Oh Well, I will
> > worry about that later, after all my VFO works...
> > Thank you Jim for pointing me in the direction of the problem.
> >
> > James Wayne Rue
> > KC5HAC
> > ________________________________________________________________
> > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi all
Eventually found the case that I want to use for the 2n2-40 in the
garage (under a pile of tents, deckchairs and bikes )
In my head I imagined it to be 8" x 6" (haven't seen it for 2 or 3
years). The reality is that the case will take a 6" x 4" board.
Is anyone using a smaller board ? If so, how is it going ? What's the
smallest board being built ?
Thought about maybe mounting the Tx/Rx Driver and Audio Amp (possibly
even the VFO) on separate small boards then soldering these boards
vertically around the edge of the main board.
Any thoughts ?
73 Steve G4GXL
|
733|732|2001-11-05 08:21:57|John Wagner|Re: Anyone NOT using 5" x 7" board ?|Hi Steve,
I'm using a 5x7 and it's about right. I would think if you used a
smaller board you would have to do exactly what you said and build some
of the sections seperately. The Rx Mute and Audio amp would be prime for
this as they are built on a complete side. If you moved the Rx/Tx driver
it wouldn't buy you much as the DBM and RF amp and other stuff are below
it. You could move all of them though.
Before starting I had entertained the thought of building each section
on a small piece of board and then mounting it vertically, sort of like
the "daughterboards" you find in a PC. Maybe that's an option?
73 de John, N1QO
g4gxl@btinternet.com wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> Eventually found the case that I want to use for the 2n2-40 in the
> garage (under a pile of tents, deckchairs and bikes )
>
> In my head I imagined it to be 8" x 6" (haven't seen it for 2 or 3
> years). The reality is that the case will take a 6" x 4" board.
>
> Is anyone using a smaller board ? If so, how is it going ? What's the
> smallest board being built ?
>
> Thought about maybe mounting the Tx/Rx Driver and Audio Amp (possibly
> even the VFO) on separate small boards then soldering these boards
> vertically around the edge of the main board.
>
> Any thoughts ?
>
> 73 Steve G4GXL
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHello again Hubert,
Looking good!
Your pics are great, very, very clear. What kind of camera are you
using? I need to get a better one, the Photo PC I'm using is an old
hand-me-down (hand-me-down digital cameras, kinda funny that). My dad
has a much better one (explains the hand-me-down), I'll have to borrow
it I think.
73 de John, N1QO
hubert.smits@btinternet.com wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> Over the weekend I managed to start building. The TxRx switch went
> fine. The VFO was much more difficult. Specially if you leave the big
> bits (trimmer cap) to put in last. But it went all on the board.
> Hopefully I find time to test tonight. If anybody is interested in my
> efforts then look at the MM0GMM folder in the piccies section.
>
> This is fun!
>
> 72 de Hubert MM0GMM
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comExcellent Tom!!! Yeah, what a feeling!
The alignment (someone correct me if I'm wrong here to please) is to put
the receiver up about 700hz (more or less) on the upper side band (which
is odd to me because I use the lower sideband on my Icom) for listening
to CW.
So you peak TC5 on a CW sig while fiddling with the tuning to ensure
it's got the right tone (the aforementioned 700hz or so). You know
you're on the upper sideband if the signal gets deeper as you rotate the
tuning knob clockwise (higher in freq). If you can hear SSB (which
should be LSB SSB) then you should not be able to tune it if you are
listening on the USB.
The question I have is why the USB and not the LSB.
73 de John, N1QO
tdufres@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> Wait, what's that about "alignment"? What is that? This thing works
> great. Why do I need "alignment"? I'm not quite sure how/why I do
> that... I can fiddle with TC5, but I am not quite sure what it is I
> am trying to do, even after reading "RVCR ALIGNMENT" on pg 32...
> Help?
> Tom
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim,
Let me make sure I understand....Two leads of the cap (TC3) are
common. The other lead is the other end of the trimmer. Should I
connect TC3 with one of the common leads going to the pad with TC4,
L1, etc. and the other end of the trimmer to the pad with D7, C7, and
R2? What would I do with the other common lead? Can I just clip it
off, or does it have to be connected to something?
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 07:46 PM 11/4/01 +0000, Pat KF4LMZ wrote:
> >Gang,
> >
> >I'm in the process of building the VFO. TC3 is supposed to be 3-
10pF and
> >TC4 8-50pF. Would it be OK to use a 3-36pF for TC3 and a 8-150pF
for TC4?
>
> Absolutely! Those values will work fine.
>
> > I have those values in my junk box.
>
> Use 'em.......
>
> > Also, the 8-150pF variable cap has 3 leads. Can anyone tell me
what
> > the third lead is for?
>
> Two are common, probably the end the would normally get grounded,
> and the third is the other end of the trimmer, or it is the other
> way around, two of the other end, and one to ground.
>
> > If I can use this cap, should the third lead go to ground?
>
> Find out what it is connected to, and make them the same.
>
> > Thanks in advance for the help and answers to my many
questions!!
>
> Not a problem, and good luck with the VFO build.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Hi Steve,
While in the queue to get into Edinburgh this morning I have been
thinking on how to design a layout that fits a given board (caused by
my own problems in the VFO). What I do for the next stage is bend the
wires of the parts (or use dummy wires) and stick them in some foam.
For me that will give me the proper place of the pads. For you it wil
give you the minimum size of the board. You just have to find a way
that prevents you from sticking in all 100 parts...
--Hubert
--- In 2n2-40@y..., g4gxl@b... wrote:
> Hi all
>
> Eventually found the case that I want to use for the 2n2-40 in the
> garage (under a pile of tents, deckchairs and bikes )
>
> In my head I imagined it to be 8" x 6" (haven't seen it for 2 or 3
> years). The reality is that the case will take a 6" x 4" board.
>
> Is anyone using a smaller board ? If so, how is it going ? What's
the
> smallest board being built ?
>
> Thought about maybe mounting the Tx/Rx Driver and Audio Amp
(possibly
> even the VFO) on separate small boards then soldering these boards
> vertically around the edge of the main board.
>
> Any thoughts ?
>
> 73 Steve G4GXL
My Board is 4" x 7 1/2" .....
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspWho cares how you spell it?
The feeling was indescribable when Saturday Morning at about 2:45 AM Pacific
Standard Time, I finished (rebuilding) my VFO and heard the Stinger Singer
crooning out 2R.....whatever. Crawling into bed, the GUD XYL says "Honey
what time is it?" I say back "About 2:45....it's working!" She rolls over
and says "Congratulations...zzzzzzzz...."
I wrote down the frequencies, but don't have the paper here at work, but it
felt almost as good when I hooked up the scope and saw that beautiful sine
wave...I have from 1.76 to 3.84 V peak when I tune the pot end to end...I
haven't had time to do the tweaking, but it sure feals fiels feeeeeels good!
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp--- In 2n2-40@y..., kf4lmz@q... wrote:
Pat,
So, if you are looking down on the trimmmer you have three leads
coming out at 9 o'clock, 3 o'clock, and 6 o'clock (or 12 if it is the
other way). On trimmers with 3 leads two are usually connected
together. One goes to one side of the cap, the other two to the
opposite side of the cap. The ones at 9 and 3 should be electrically
the same (you can check this with an ohmeter), the one at 6 is the
other side of the cap. I used 9 and 3 as ground and 6 goes to the
pad. This offers stability and takes up less space on the pad.
Hope this helps.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
> Jim,
>
> Let me make sure I understand....Two leads of the cap (TC3) are
> common. The other lead is the other end of the trimmer. Should I
> connect TC3 with one of the common leads going to the pad with TC4,
> L1, etc. and the other end of the trimmer to the pad with D7, C7,
and
> R2? What would I do with the other common lead? Can I just clip
it
> off, or does it have to be connected to something?
>
> 72 de Pat KF4LMZ
>
Hah! Congrats Del, way to go!!!
Can't wait to work all these new rigs on the air!
I'm within a week of transmitting, I can feel it!
73 John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
>
> Who cares how you spell it?
>
> The feeling was indescribable when Saturday Morning at about 2:45 AM Pacific
> Standard Time, I finished (rebuilding) my VFO and heard the Stinger Singer
> crooning out 2R.....whatever. Crawling into bed, the GUD XYL says "Honey
> what time is it?" I say back "About 2:45....it's working!" She rolls over
> and says "Congratulations...zzzzzzzz...."
>
> I wrote down the frequencies, but don't have the paper here at work, but it
> felt almost as good when I hooked up the scope and saw that beautiful sine
> wave...I have from 1.76 to 3.84 V peak when I tune the pot end to end...I
> haven't had time to do the tweaking, but it sure feals fiels feeeeeels good!
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 12:47 AM 11/5/01 +0000, Kevin Murphy, KC8SFJ wrote:
>Gang,
>I am having a problem with my project. I have built up to and
>including the audio output stage. The problem is I have no recieved
>audio.
Bummer.....it's not supposed to do that!!
> The audio output stage works, I think. I used Joe's
>Quickie's audio oscilator to test it.
Good, that's a stage that can be eliminated as far as being
a problem.
>I haven't been able to test anything since the VFO, 'cause I have no
>RF signal Gen. I could build the one from the elcraft manual, or the
>one on the QRP-l list that was just posted, problem is, I don't have
>a 40meter crystal to get it in the band.
Having a crystal for the band you need is sorta fundemental
if you are going to build a signal generator, unless you have
a pair of crystals handy that either add to 7.0 to 7.1, or
if you substract their frequencies, you get into the same frequency
range. With that approach, you could build a crystal oscillator
with one, and feed it into an NE602 with the second crystal running
as a Local Oscillator, and take either the sum or difference from
the output for the NE602. A simple mixer approach to achieving
a suitable signal source.
>I have a bunch of 20, 13.5, 7.362, 3.9545, etc. none in the 40 meter
>band. Is there a way to build an oscilator that will work on 40
>meters without a crystal?
Not a good idea to build an oscillator at 7 MHz and hope to have it
stable enough. I'd rather see you build one at 1/3 that frequency,
and triple the output up to 7+ MHz. That approach would probably
be stable enough to be workable. But you could try for one at
7 MHz just to see how stable it is. I think we would all be interested
in the data.
>I still have to test the RF amp, IF amp, and
>product detector. The LO works, as I recieve a strong signal on
>4.915 Mhz with my Kenwood R-2000.
That's good to know too. I'm assuming you can hear the VFO
with the R-2000 also?
>
>Any suggestions?
See above......
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
At 01:25 AM 11/5/01 +0000, Tom wrote:
>Just finishing up the RX mute, noticed the new schematics and values.
>The new values are R31 (now called R40) 2.2M, was 1M
Correct.......
>C35 (now called C43) is 10uF, was 1uF. Is that correct?
Yes, that's correct also.
>Do I still need to change out C67 in Rx/Tx from a 4.7uF electrolytic
>to .22uF?
Yes, that should improve the Tx to Rx transistions. C67 can go
all the way down to 0.01 uF, but 0.22 should work fine too.
> >Thanks
Sure thing......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:51 AM 11/5/01 +0000, Tom D. wrote:
>IT CRANKS!!!!! This thing is everything I expected, and more! There
>is so little "white" noise, and it just really works well! Stations
>just BOOM in!!
>
>-snip-
>HAPPY DANCE!!!!!!
Way to go Tom. I knew you could build this thing!!
>Read... read....Hmmm.
>
>Wait, what's that about "alignment"? What is that? This thing works
>great. Why do I need "alignment"?
It optimizes the ability of the receiver to hear weak signals,
and places the signal into the proper point on the crystal filter
to minimize interference.
> I'm not quite sure how/why I do
>that... I can fiddle with TC5, but I am not quite sure what it is I
>am trying to do, even after reading "RVCR ALIGNMENT" on pg 32...
Go back and reread it. I can't say it any clearer than I did
there on page 32. If you follow those instructions, you'll have
the receiver optimized.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 11:19 AM 11/5/01 +0000, Hubert MM0GMM, wrote:
>Gang,
>
>Over the weekend I managed to start building. The TxRx switch went
>fine. The VFO was much more difficult. Specially if you leave the big
>bits (trimmer cap) to put in last.
Probably a good lesson there for others Hubert.
> But it went all on the board.
>Hopefully I find time to test tonight. If anybody is interested in my
>efforts then look at the MM0GMM folder in the piccies section.
Very nice pictures there. I'm impressed that you wound all of
the toroids and have them cataloged, ready to install. Now that's
forward planning!! Wonderful to hear also that your VFO works
as designed.
>This is fun!
It is isn't it!!! Thanks for sharing your enthusiasm.
72 and "build on", as Garth would say.......
Jim, K8IQY
At 12:19 PM 11/5/01 +0000, Steve G4GXL, wrote:
>Hi all
>
>Eventually found the case that I want to use for the 2n2-40 in the
>garage (under a pile of tents, deckchairs and bikes )
I'm cleaning my garage today, just for that reason. Needs to
get organized again.
>In my head I imagined it to be 8" x 6" (haven't seen it for 2 or 3
>years). The reality is that the case will take a 6" x 4" board.
>
>Is anyone using a smaller board ? If so, how is it going ? What's the
>smallest board being built ?
My original 2N2/40 was on a 4 X 5 inch substrate Steve. I solved the
space problem by putting the final amplifier transistors and the LP
filter on a sub-board, and mounting it above the Tx driver stage, and
the Rx/Tx switching. If you look at the pictures on my website,
you can see how I mounted everything.
>Thought about maybe mounting the Tx/Rx Driver and Audio Amp (possibly
>even the VFO) on separate small boards then soldering these boards
>vertically around the edge of the main board.
If you put the VFO on a sub-board, I'd be tempted to mount it vertically
in the middle of the main board, as it has to drive both the Rx and
Tx sections. Having it centrally located helps with the signal routing.
The audio section would be a good candidate to also go on it own board
I think, as well as the final amplifier/LP filter. I used double sided
board material for the RF output module, with the final transistors and
bias components on one side, and the LP filter parts on the opposite side.
It ended up quite compact, but then, so did the whole rig!! :-)
72 and let us know what you do,
Jim, K8IQY
The VFO does work. I can recieve it on 2.0850 up to 2.1837. The
RCVR LO does put out a signal (strong) on 4.9152.
When I inject a signal from the Quickie Audio OSC before the FET I
don't seem to get anything. After the FET it works fine.
I have already changed the FET (it was bouncing and causing an audio
ping when I grounded the key line) and checked the connections that
far. I will have to continue checking all the connections I guess.
Thanks.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
PS: The FET I orignally had in there was not the one from the group
buy. When I put the group buy one in there it doesn't have the ping.
|
748|728|2001-11-05 13:55:57|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Stage VI complete-WOW!!!!!|At 08:49 AM 11/5/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>Excellent Tom!!! Yeah, what a feeling!
>
>The alignment (someone correct me if I'm wrong here to please) is to put
>the receiver up about 700hz (more or less) on the upper side band (which
>is odd to me because I use the lower sideband on my Icom) for listening
>to CW.
You are correct. The 2N2/40 uses the filter as an upper sideband
filter. I'll explain why in a bit.
>So you peak TC5 on a CW sig while fiddling with the tuning to ensure
>it's got the right tone (the aforementioned 700hz or so). You know
>you're on the upper sideband if the signal gets deeper as you rotate the
>tuning knob clockwise (higher in freq). If you can hear SSB (which
>should be LSB SSB) then you should not be able to tune it if you are
>listening on the USB.
Good short explanation John.
>The question I have is why the USB and not the LSB.
The reason the I chose to use USB and not LSB is the nature of
the VBW filter. If you look at what happens as the filter is
moved from its wide position to narrow position, you'll see that
the higher frequency cutoff of the filter moves downward in
frequency, as more capacitance is added to make the filter
narrower. With a signal tuned in, the filter can be made
narrower without retuning, because the injection point of the
local oscillator is on the lower frequency slope of the crystal
filter, which doesn't move as the filter is narrowed. Had it
been implemeted as a LSB setup, with the LO injection point on
the upper slope of the filter, everytime the filter passband was
changed, the receiver would have to be retuned to place the
upper slope of the filter back in position relative to the
LO injection point. You would not have like the rig with that
anomaly.
Hope that all makes sense. I did a lot of analysis on the VBW filter
before realizing that I needed to implement it as an USB filter,
to make the rig work properly. The benefit is that you don't
have to deal with SSB signals, since their audio is upside down.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:25 PM 11/5/01 +0000, Pat KF4LMZ wrote:
>Jim,
Hi Pat,
>Let me make sure I understand....Two leads of the cap (TC3) are
>common.
Yes, proabaly the two on opposite ends I surmise.
> The other lead is the other end of the trimmer.
That's correct....
> Should I
>connect TC3 with one of the common leads going to the pad with TC4,
>L1, etc. and the other end of the trimmer to the pad with D7, C7, and
>R2?
Yes, that's exactly what you need to do.
> What would I do with the other common lead? Can I just clip it
>off, or does it have to be connected to something?
It can either be connected where its mate is connected, or
can be cut off if you don't need it soldered down for stability.
Either will work. Just don't solder it to the same point as
the other end, or you'll short out the trimmer. If you do that,
you'll also short out the voltage coming from POT1, since TC3
will no longer be a capacitor, but a short. All of the tuning
voltage will be shorted to ground through L1.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Sounds like your 2N7000 isn't on.
Check:
You have the connection "Rx" made to the Rx/Tx driver and in the correct
location.
C68 is now a .01uF cap.
You can measure voltage on the "Rx" line.
You have POT3 wired up correctly.
You've triple checked your audio amp.
All the Vcc lines are connected.
That's all I can think of.
73 de John, N1QO
"Kevin Murphy, KC8SFJ" wrote:
>
> The VFO does work. I can recieve it on 2.0850 up to 2.1837. The
> RCVR LO does put out a signal (strong) on 4.9152.
> When I inject a signal from the Quickie Audio OSC before the FET I
> don't seem to get anything. After the FET it works fine.
> I have already changed the FET (it was bouncing and causing an audio
> ping when I grounded the key line) and checked the connections that
> far. I will have to continue checking all the connections I guess.
> Thanks.
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
>
> PS: The FET I orignally had in there was not the one from the group
> buy. When I put the group buy one in there it doesn't have the ping.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAs I mentioned before, I got the VFO working, HOORAY!
If I heard the stinger correctly, I was able to get it to tune from 2.085 to
2.093 (That's not as much as I should get, right?) by adjusting TC4, then I
tried to spread it out, with TC3, but it gets confusing. Also, realized
that the Pot is tuning reverse of what I thought, so I guess I will have to
switch those leads........
How's the best way to tweak the thing into where it should be now?
Thanks again..............
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspHello Cam,
I looked up your address on QRZ so my dollar is on its way :-).
I wanted to say "Thank you" for going to this trouble as I did not get
to put a Thank You note in the envelope.
James Wayne Rue
KC5HAC
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Dang! As I near the end of the transmitter I've realized that I'm 1
trimmer cap short!!! It looks like I'll have to come up with
something creative for TC6.
What I'm thinking is dragging out every cap I can between 11-70pF and
trying them. Anyone here have any other creative solutions if I can't
get my hands on a trimmer at the local radio shack?
73 de John, N1QO
|
754|754|2001-11-05 23:25:51|John Wagner|almost there...|Too tired to finish tonight, but soooooooo close. Created an N1QO folder
on the yahoo site and uploaded a pic so you guys can see how close it is
to being done. Will update my website tomorrow or weds.
Checkout the photo though, it shows the heatsinks that Del ordered for
all of us, really neat!
73 de John, N1QO (and GN!)
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comFolks,
May be someone has got the cat out earlier, but browsing on the pages from
K1EL I noticed he has a new chip for xtal matching... It's called
"Granite State XTAL".
Once an Xtal frequency is measured, it compares and ranges the coming
xtals in different "bins". Output is done by LEDs (one per "bin")
or by LCD, telling the frequency shift...
I'be been told price for just the chip is a mere 8 bucks, but you will
have to prepare the oscillator circuit and some glue parts... plus
a reference oscillator (4 MHz can) and display...
Datasheet is on www.k1el.com
Hope you'll have fun with it.
jon, ea2sn
|
756|754|2001-11-06 08:16:43|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: almost there...|At 11:29 PM 11/5/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>Too tired to finish tonight, but soooooooo close. Created an N1QO folder
>on the yahoo site and uploaded a pic so you guys can see how close it is
>to being done. Will update my website tomorrow or weds.
>
>Checkout the photo though, it shows the heatsinks that Del ordered for
>all of us, really neat!
Looking very good John. Thanks for putting a picture on the
Yahoo site. Looks like your 2N2/40 is ready to put some RF
into the aether! Nice building job too.......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 09:22 PM 11/5/01 +0000, Delbert Long, AD6WE wrote:
>As I mentioned before, I got the VFO working, HOORAY!
Good going Del........
>If I heard the stinger correctly, I was able to get it to tune from 2.085 to
>2.093 (That's not as much as I should get, right?) by adjusting TC4,
Hmmmm. I'm not sure what you are saying here. The tuning range of the VFO
is controlled primarily with POT1. By running that pot from end to end,
you should get a frequency change of about 90 to 100 KHz. Trimmer
TC4 sets the lowest frequency to which the VFO will tune.
> then I
>tried to spread it out, with TC3, but it gets confusing.
Trimmer TC3 adjusts the coupling between the tuned circuit, and the
varicap tuning diode. As capacitance is increased, the range that
the VFO can tune also increases. So if your VFO is only tuning
across 90 KHz, and you want to have it cover 100 KHz, TC3 must be
adjusted for more capacitance. As more capacitance is added, the
lowest frequency the VFO can tune will decrease, so TC4 must be
readjusted, (less capacitance) to bring the lowest VFO frequency back
to where you want it, normally about 2.085 MHz, which is 7 MHz on
receive.
> Also, realized
>that the Pot is tuning reverse of what I thought, so I guess I will have to
>switch those leads........
Turning POT1 clockwise should raise the VFO frequency.
>How's the best way to tweak the thing into where it should be now?
See my expanation above.......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Ok I have been looking at this now for a while. I think I got it.
Corrections say I need to add a pad, and on one end goes R44, 330
ohm), and attach the other end of R44 to the pad that has C47 and
R43. OK Check on that. No worries.
Then it says "Wire W5B needs to connect to the new pad, as does the
wire containing R47" (looking on QRPp article, NOT new schematics)
Does that mean I do NOT connect to the pad that has C47 and R43 with
wire W5B?
I looked at the new schematics and I hate to say I still can't quite
figure it out for sure.
Am I correct? In my mind I am now connecting wire W5B to a new pad
that has one end of R44, and then on to the pad that has R47. I am
bypassing (not connecting with W5B) the pad that has C47 and R43 and
on to the pad that has R47. Right?
Tom
|
759|753|2001-11-06 12:26:10|Delbert Long|Re: short one trimmer cap!|Can you wait for the US Mail - I could send you one of mine.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspI will try your suggestions above, and let you know...won't get a chance
until lunch (PST).
I read some earlier posts about removing a turn or two from L1...what does
that do?
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspJust looked at your photo...great job! Do you wear cotton gloves when
you work on the project? How do you keep the board so shiny?
I scrubbed mine down as well as possible when I took off the VFO
parts, got some cotton gloves, and wore them most of the time, but got
handprints on the board when I took them off, so it looks like I have
some more polishing to do again...
Anxious to hear you on the air! Especially with my 2N2 if I can hurry
and get it done!
Del, AD6WE
|
763|763|2001-11-06 14:13:03|John Wagner|not quite...|Got the transmit sections finished at lunch, but have not leaked any RF
yet. I believe I have a problem in the TX Single balanced mixer as the
freq coming out of it at pin 1 of T12 is around 33mhz or so (roughly,
measured on my scope).
Can someone tell me what freqs they see at:
Pin 1 T12
Wiper of Pot4
thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comDelbert Long wrote:
>
> Just looked at your photo...great job! Do you wear cotton gloves when
> you work on the project? How do you keep the board so shiny?
Actually, it doesn't look that good - I think my camera is very
forgiving! No kidding, that's the truth.
I try to keep everything at 90 degree angles, sometimes 45, but always
with some semblance of shape. Makes things look neat and it's actually
easier to troubleshoot.
>
> I scrubbed mine down as well as possible when I took off the VFO
> parts, got some cotton gloves, and wore them most of the time, but got
I don't wear gloves. I do try to use tweazers as much as possible
though. I've noticed as I troubleshoot more and more the board looks
worse and worse. ;( Don't care that much, just want a working rig, 'eh.
73 de John, N1QO
> handprints on the board when I took them off, so it looks like I have
> some more polishing to do again...
>
> Anxious to hear you on the air! Especially with my 2N2 if I can hurry
> and get it done!
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI just posted some new photos to my AD6WE file on the Yahoogroups
page...as you can see, my VFO slid out of the suggested spot a little
bit...I didn't want the output to be so far from the next stage.
I'm getting about 90 khz bandspread right now, I think I will worry
about that later, when everything else is working. Won't be too hard
to slip a small cap in there to spread things out a little.
72, 73...
Del, AD6WE
|
766|766|2001-11-06 20:17:37|John Wagner|nope, not tonite either|Well gang I was hoping to have this rig on the air tonight, but I can't
seem to make it generate RF. Historically for me the xmiter has been the
easy part to debug as they are fairly straightforward. Can't seem to get
this one right though and have had my o'scope probe slip and snap enough
this evening that I'm going to give up for the night. Will try again
tomorrow night.
I'm gonna get on and hunt the cub fox and actually play on the air for a
while I guess. ;)
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comIt's 2:00 AM and I'm working on my 2N2 VFO...all the parts that I removed in
a plastic film can...only that last transistor to put back on the
board...now where is that sucker...check around the table, under the table,
can't locate it. Where did I put all my transistors, I have extras in case
I blow one up...it's so late, my eyes are crossing, I can't find
them...well, here's this board from an old something I got dumpster
diving...the board even has diagrams to show whether they are NPN or
PNP...here's a likely candidate...those 2222 purists are having nightmares
right now...hey, they even marked EBC on these buggers...no this one says
ECB, I'll have to twist the leads. Here's one, it says it's an NPN and the
leads are in the right order...number is 9018 I'll check it later...if it
works I can go to bed, if I have to I can replace this "imposter" when I
find my 2N2222's.
Okay, where's the Stinger Singer? Hook up all the wires, be sure don't
short anything you melted your test leads the last time...
Push the button...those Morse digits don't sound right, tweak the
capacitors...there it is! 2R190R332...it's working!
Turn the pot back and forth...I have about 85 khZ tuning...YES! YES!
Careful, Katie is asleep, don't scare the bejeebers out of her with your
yelling!
Anyway, now you know the REST of the story!
72, 73...keep on melting solder...
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspCongrats Del!
I bet you're a proud radio daddy!
73
----- Original Message -----
From: "Delbert Long" <AD6WE@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 8:21 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] The rest of the Story
> It's 2:00 AM and I'm working on my 2N2 VFO...all the parts that I removed
in
> a plastic film can...only that last transistor to put back on the
> board...now where is that sucker...check around the table, under the
table,
> can't locate it. Where did I put all my transistors, I have extras in
case
> I blow one up...it's so late, my eyes are crossing, I can't find
> them...well, here's this board from an old something I got dumpster
> diving...the board even has diagrams to show whether they are NPN or
> PNP...here's a likely candidate...those 2222 purists are having nightmares
> right now...hey, they even marked EBC on these buggers...no this one says
> ECB, I'll have to twist the leads. Here's one, it says it's an NPN and
the
> leads are in the right order...number is 9018 I'll check it later...if it
> works I can go to bed, if I have to I can replace this "imposter" when I
> find my 2N2222's.
>
> Okay, where's the Stinger Singer? Hook up all the wires, be sure don't
> short anything you melted your test leads the last time...
>
> Push the button...those Morse digits don't sound right, tweak the
> capacitors...there it is! 2R190R332...it's working!
>
> Turn the pot back and forth...I have about 85 khZ tuning...YES! YES!
>
> Careful, Katie is asleep, don't scare the bejeebers out of her with your
> yelling!
>
> Anyway, now you know the REST of the story!
>
> 72, 73...keep on melting solder...
>
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Is there a way to "test" trimmer caps? When I listen to the TX LO,
TC5 on my stage V doesn't seem to do much when I turn it. No change
in sound, or anything. I do NOT have anything too fancy for
testing....
I do have a DVM!
Tom
|
770|769|2001-11-07 09:33:19|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Trimmer caps|At 06:26 AM 11/7/01 +0000, Tom wrote:
>Is there a way to "test" trimmer caps?
Yes, a good capacitance meter like the AADE works well.
> When I listen to the TX LO,
>TC5 on my stage V doesn't seem to do much when I turn it. No change
>in sound, or anything.
Something is indeed wrong. If it is a 3 terminal trimmer, maybe you
didn't solder to the correct leads, and the trimmer is shorted
out.
> I do NOT have anything too fancy for
>testing....
>I do have a DVM!
Unfortunately, that won't do it, unless it can read resistance, and
you can check if the trimmer is shorted out.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Well gang, I've melted more then a couple metal 2n2222a's with a slip of
the o'scope probe to know that it's time to take another approach.
So here is the plan;
Decouple stage 7 and stage 8. Attempt to follow the chain from the TX/Lo
through to where it hooks into the RF Amp. If it all looks good, hook
'em back up, but unhook the output filter. Follow it from there. If that
looks good, hook up the output filter and hope for a working rig.
Problem is this; I'm not really clear what to look for in the single
balanced mixer. Any hints or pointers appreciated.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 09:54 PM 11/7/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>Well gang, I've melted more then a couple metal 2n2222a's with a slip of
>the o'scope probe to know that it's time to take another approach.
Welcome to the club John. I've fried maybe 20 of them so
far fiddling with 2N2/XX rigs.
>So here is the plan;
>
>Decouple stage 7 and stage 8. Attempt to follow the chain from the TX/Lo
>through to where it hooks into the RF Amp. If it all looks good, hook
>'em back up, but unhook the output filter. Follow it from there. If that
>looks good, hook up the output filter and hope for a working rig.
>
>Problem is this; I'm not really clear what to look for in the single
>balanced mixer. Any hints or pointers appreciated.
A single balanced mixer is essentially the same as a double balanced
mixer, except it only balances out one of the drive signals. With
the receive DBM, both the VFO drive, and the incoming RF are the
two signals that are balanced, leaving in theory, the sum and difference
of these two signals at the output. With the SBM in the transmit
section, the LO drive signal is the one that is balanced, so
very little of this signal should show up on the output. The
predominant frequencies you should see are the VFO, as it is not
balanced, and the sum and difference frequencies of the VFO and
LO. Those would be 7+ MHz, the one we want, and approximately,
2.78 MHz. Plus there will be a bunch of harmonically related
lower level mixing products, but you probably won't see these unless
you look at the output of the mixer with a spectrum analyzer.
An easy way to see how the SBM is working is to look at its output
with only the VFO running, or LO running. With the VFO running, you
should see a goodly amount of this signal on the output. With
the LO running, very little output, unless the SBM is way out
of balance because the trifilar transformer doesn't have
its windings connected properly, or one or more of the diodes is
really off, shorted, or open. With both VFO and LO running, the
output is a composite signal consisting of VFO, Sum, and Difference,
frequencies discussed above.
The input transformer, T12, of the cascode amplifier has it's secondary
winding series resonated with TC7, and C49 in parallel, and this
pair in series with C50. It is tuned to 7+ MHz, when adjusted
correctly. There should be two peaks of the 7 MHz energy as
TC7 is rotated through 360 degrees. If you monitor the base
of Q15 with an RF probe or scope while adjusting TC7, you
should be able to see these peaks. That single tuned circuit will
not eliminate all of the unwanted mixing products, but attenuates
them by a significant amount. The output transformer, T13, takes
care of the rest of the unwanted mixing components. As before,
adjusting TC8 ought to result in two distinct peaks. Monitoring
pin 4 of T13 is where these peaks can be measured.
Here are some representative voltages measure on my rig. Use new
schematics for reference.
Tx VFO coming into C47: 800 mv p-p
LO into T11, pin 1: 1.2v p-p
Base of Q16: 850 mv p-p composite signal
Collector of Q16: 4 v p-p 7+ MHz sinewave
With POT4 set to drive the rig to 2 watts output into 50 ohms.
Collector of Q17: 11 v p-p
T14, pin 4: 2 v p-p (this is the drive to the finals)
Collectors of Q18-Q20: 35 v p-p, half-sine
Output of LPF: 28 v p-p
That's about as complete of a rundown as I can provide, unless
I put some photos up on the web site. I can do that if there is
interest.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
VFO is running. Frequency adjustments easily made.
I question is what should be the output voltage of the VFO on T5
secondary with a 100 ohm load? I have an output of 1 to 1.5 v peak
to peak. The input to T5 is 3-4 v peak to peak. C12 has been
optimized for max output with the peak occuring mid frequency range.
Walt, N6XG
|
774|774|2001-11-08 11:13:26|wb0wao@yahoo.com|Stage III Question|Well, I know I'm waaaaay behind the power curve here, but have a ? about stage III. It seems to be working good, but there are absolutly no sigs on 40m this morning!!! So, I thought I would hook it up to the random length antenna and tune on band noise. Well, I am hearing what I believe to be AM SW broadcasters. Is this normal? I did peak on the sig, but it is too distorted to make out what is being said. Am I in the ballpark here?
Dennis
|
775|774|2001-11-08 11:18:45|Wes Clopton|Re: Stage III Question|Here in Maryland..40 mtrs has no signals..im using a KNWD TS850 and loop
ant....must be solar activity
Wes
At 04:13 PM 11/8/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Well, I know I'm waaaaay behind the power curve here, but have a ? about
>stage III. It seems to be working good, but there are absolutly no sigs
>on 40m this morning!!! So, I thought I would hook it up to the random
>length antenna and tune on band noise. Well, I am hearing what I believe
>to be AM SW broadcasters. Is this normal? I did peak on the sig, but it
>is too distorted to make out what is being said. Am I in the ballpark here?
>
>Dennis
>
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Dennis:
I assume you have used a RCVR set to 4.915mHz, and fed the output to the
RCVR. Mine worked like a champ, but when I built the next stage, the large
40 meter dipole antenna was waaay too much signal and "overloaded" the RCVR.
I used a 2 foot antenna and it worked much better.
The larger antenna may be picking up local stations. I know its hard to
wai6t, but try it again when the band opens up a bit tonite.
Good luck!
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspThanx Guys,
Yep, I use a SW-40+ and a TS-680S on 40 and use a DX-88 vert. Band is DEAD!!!!!! Gotta work tonite, but I'm off Friday and then Sun- Tues nites.
I was sure that I was overloading it, but even so, felt good to hear something!
72 es TU
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
778|778|2001-11-08 13:42:11|Delbert Long|General Coverage RCVR?|I don't have a general coverage receiver at home, I have a lot of neat stuff
available here at work (Scope, Counter, Spectrum Analyzer, etc...), but
personal stuff is limited to SMK-1, (early) SW40, and a 20 meter A&A rig.
Any ideas about coming up with a rig that will let me check my progress with
the 2n2? Anybody got something cheap for sale?
Thanks...
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspIt works!
First of all, I unhooked the link from RF Amp to the RF Driver by
removing C54.
Tracing back from TX/Lo things looked OK. I could see the VFO on pins 3
and 6 of T11 and when I keyed the radio. They appeared to be a mix of
different frequencies (for lack of a better description, I was using my
o'scope). Things died drastically on the other side of the diodes though
(pin 1 of T12). After much head scratching I started removing parts from
the RF Amp and found my follie; I had munged the placement of R50 and
was dumping Tx power straight into the base of Q16. I pulled everything
apart in the RF Amp, replaced Q15 and Q16 for good measure and put it
back together correctly.
Voila, things started looking better through the RF Amp, so I connected
the driver and it all just worked! I'm looking at like 30v p2p after the
output filter.
Alignment wasn't too difficult either (nice to have a "big" rig around
for these things).
Looks like it's putting out about 4 watts out measured on my MFJ tuner
(which is apparently innaccurate at low power).
Going to try for a few QSO's later, maybe and maybe a fox pelt or two.
;) Then its on to building the RIT and replacing a few of the wires that
I melted the insulation off while waving the soldering iron all over the
place.
Final tally; 5 metal 2n2222a burned to a crisp, 3 plastic 2n2222's and a
bunch of 1N4148 diodes. One metal 2n2222a exploded in a bright burning
orange poof which if I could duplicate again on purpose might be worth
it just to see the show.
Also have to figure out what kinda box to put it in.
I'll say it again 'cause it feels good;
Muhhhhhaaaaaahhhhhhaaaaawwwww!!!!
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWow, John...
Congratulations all around, and all that good stuff!
When is 40 meters open from Vermont to California? I could hook up my
NE4040 (Sounds kinda appropriate, doesn't it?) You would be a new miles per
watt record for me.
Makes me want to get off my duff and finish mine!
How did you explode a transistor like that? Might be fun to try, HI HI...
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspThanks Del!!!
I'm really psyched. Need to get a proper enclosure on this one, it's a
keeper!
The furthest out west I've worked on 40 QRP is Idaho and that was late
at night last winter sometime.
When more of us get finished we'll have to have a big 'ol 2n2/40 QSO
party or something.
I'll be on tonight in the QRP-L Fox hunt with the 2n2/40, I just have to
give it a try.
73 de John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
>
> Wow, John...
>
> Congratulations all around, and all that good stuff!
>
> When is 40 meters open from Vermont to California? I could hook up my
> NE4040 (Sounds kinda appropriate, doesn't it?) You would be a new miles per
> watt record for me.
>
> Makes me want to get off my duff and finish mine!
>
> How did you explode a transistor like that? Might be fun to try, HI HI...
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comCongrats John. You deserve being the first for all the effort you put forth
helping to get the rest of the gang going.
72 de Lee, KM4YY
One of the most fashionable notions of our times is that social problems
like
poverty and oppression breed wars. Most wars, however, are started by
well-fed
people with time on their hands to dream up half-baked ideologies or
grandiose
ambitions, and to nurse real or imagined grievances.
--Thomas Sowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2001 7:02 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] muhhhhhaaaaaahhhhhhaaaaawwwww
> It works!
>
> First of all, I unhooked the link from RF Amp to the RF Driver by
> removing C54.
>
> Tracing back from TX/Lo things looked OK. I could see the VFO on pins 3
> and 6 of T11 and when I keyed the radio. They appeared to be a mix of
> different frequencies (for lack of a better description, I was using my
> o'scope). Things died drastically on the other side of the diodes though
> (pin 1 of T12). After much head scratching I started removing parts from
> the RF Amp and found my follie; I had munged the placement of R50 and
> was dumping Tx power straight into the base of Q16. I pulled everything
> apart in the RF Amp, replaced Q15 and Q16 for good measure and put it
> back together correctly.
>
> Voila, things started looking better through the RF Amp, so I connected
> the driver and it all just worked! I'm looking at like 30v p2p after the
> output filter.
>
> Alignment wasn't too difficult either (nice to have a "big" rig around
> for these things).
>
> Looks like it's putting out about 4 watts out measured on my MFJ tuner
> (which is apparently innaccurate at low power).
>
> Going to try for a few QSO's later, maybe and maybe a fox pelt or two.
> ;) Then its on to building the RIT and replacing a few of the wires that
> I melted the insulation off while waving the soldering iron all over the
> place.
>
> Final tally; 5 metal 2n2222a burned to a crisp, 3 plastic 2n2222's and a
> bunch of 1N4148 diodes. One metal 2n2222a exploded in a bright burning
> orange poof which if I could duplicate again on purpose might be worth
> it just to see the show.
>
> Also have to figure out what kinda box to put it in.
>
> I'll say it again 'cause it feels good;
> Muhhhhhaaaaaahhhhhhaaaaawwwww!!!!
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Gang,
One thing I'm noticing on this rig is the sidetone is very loud. I
bumped R40 up to a 10M but it's still initially loud on keydown and
then volume comes down.
I'm wondering if I didn't somehow damage Q21 or Q22 in the Rx/Tx
driver while I was busy frying things with my oscope probe. I put a
voltmeter on Rx and on keydown I notice the voltage does not drop to
zero immediatly.
Any thoughts?
73 de John, N1QO
|
784|784|2001-11-09 01:23:58|tdufres@hotmail.com|Trimmer woes|I got stage VII going, tested, and it seems ok. I am having real
problems with my trimmers! I can't seem to adjust them. I am using
R/S tools, they seem to be too soft to "twist" the caps, and they
have a tough time fitting into the openings of the caps.
I do have two nice 9-50pF caps from Ocean State Electronics. Will
they have enough capacitance for stage VII and VI?
Thanks for help, I'm getting close!
Tom
|
785|784|2001-11-09 07:40:21|John Wagner|Re: Trimmer woes|Probably will be enough. You can always check the cap to see if its
enough and if not add a 20pF or so in parallel if not.
73 de John, N1QO
tdufres@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> I got stage VII going, tested, and it seems ok. I am having real
> problems with my trimmers! I can't seem to adjust them. I am using
> R/S tools, they seem to be too soft to "twist" the caps, and they
> have a tough time fitting into the openings of the caps.
> I do have two nice 9-50pF caps from Ocean State Electronics. Will
> they have enough capacitance for stage VII and VI?
> Thanks for help, I'm getting close!
> Tom
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWalt,
I think that's about right.
Where are at now?
73,
John, N1QO
wwham@earthlink.net wrote:
>
> VFO is running. Frequency adjustments easily made.
>
> I question is what should be the output voltage of the VFO on T5
> secondary with a 100 ohm load? I have an output of 1 to 1.5 v peak
> to peak. The input to T5 is 3-4 v peak to peak. C12 has been
> optimized for max output with the peak occuring mid frequency range.
>
> Walt, N6XG
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi Gang,
Well, got stage III hooked up and checked out, and it is receiving.. but not where it should be. Have the VFO set to 2.097 and listening on the R-2000 at 4.915, now I SHOULD be monitoring 7.012 if my math is right, but I am hearing a SW broadcast station (WWCR) that I believe is transmitting at 9.475!!! HELP!!!!!!!
BTW the RIT works great and moves in the same "direction" as the VFO (a very good thing). Cant really tell if the RF Gain is operational yet, and can't get a peak on the varible caps either. But that will be worked on after the freq problem is solved. I did tune to where I heard STRONG CW sigs on the SW-40+ but nothing there!!!
Dennis
|
788|783|2001-11-09 11:53:17|ags@ieee.org|Re: loud sidetone|John and gang,
I think it best that Jim field this question. However, I will say that
I am having similar problems with 2N2/40 #16.
First let me ask, are you using all updated circuitry or have you used
some of the original design? Through correspondence, Jim and I
discovered that the IF amp was self oscillating causing much of the
unexpected loudness with the key down. Subsequently, Jim did a mod to
the IF amp to reduce its gain by 10dB. That quieted down the sidetone
considereably at the cost of less audio output. I also still get some
poping and thumping on key down and up respectively. I put a 22uF
electrolytic at Tx and that smoothed out the transition areas
considerably.
When c40 is rmove completely, I notice that some of the
transmitted signal does still punch through altghough I don't know
how.
I have also completed the new circuitry at the DBM and product
detector but have yet to redo the RF and post mixer amps as well as
the VBWF. Those mods should bring back some of the lost gain but ahead
of the IF VBWF. I plan to do all of these mods.
I am very keen on this issue as a nice sidetone can really make a
difference in operating pleasure. So, please let's follow through on
this issue.
Congrats on you completion. This is really a nice radio and I think,
collectively, we can make it perfect.
72,
Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "John Wagner" wrote:
> Gang,
>
> One thing I'm noticing on this rig is the sidetone is very loud. I
> bumped R40 up to a 10M but it's still initially loud on keydown and
> then volume comes down.
>
> I'm wondering if I didn't somehow damage Q21 or Q22 in the Rx/Tx
> driver while I was busy frying things with my oscope probe. I put a
> voltmeter on Rx and on keydown I notice the voltage does not drop to
> zero immediatly.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
At 06:17 AM 11/8/01 +0000, Walt, N6XG wrote:
>VFO is running. Frequency adjustments easily made.
That's good news Walt.
>I question is what should be the output voltage of the VFO on T5
>secondary with a 100 ohm load? I have an output of 1 to 1.5 v peak
>to peak.
That's in the expected range.
> The input to T5 is 3-4 v peak to peak. C12 has been
>optimized for max output with the peak occuring mid frequency range.
Its working as designed. Congrats.....keep building!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:13 PM 11/8/01 +0000, Dennis wrote:
>Well, I know I'm waaaaay behind the power curve here, but have a ? about
>stage III. It seems to be working good, but there are absolutly no sigs
>on 40m this morning!!!
It might be the band is dead. Lots of sunspot induced stuff these
past few days.
> So, I thought I would hook it up to the random length antenna and tune
> on band noise.
Can you hear the band noise come up when the antenna is connected? If
so, something is working.
> Well, I am hearing what I believe to be AM SW broadcasters. Is this
> normal?
Might be. You didn't say if the VFO was on, or close to the frequency
range it's supposed to tune. Also, if you have a BC station close
by, something in the front-end might be getting overloaded, but I
actually doubt that is happening. The front-end of the rig is really
bullet proof.
> I did peak on the sig, but it is too distorted to make out what is
> being said. Am I in the ballpark here?
Don't know without more details.
72 and keep posting as you learn more information,
Jim, K8IQY
At 07:02 PM 11/8/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>It works!
How nice to hear those words..........
>First of all, I unhooked the link from RF Amp to the RF Driver by
>removing C54.
>
>Tracing back from TX/Lo things looked OK. I could see the VFO on pins 3
>and 6 of T11 and when I keyed the radio. They appeared to be a mix of
>different frequencies (for lack of a better description, I was using my
>o'scope).
Yup....that's what is supposed to be there.
> Things died drastically on the other side of the diodes though
>(pin 1 of T12). After much head scratching I started removing parts from
>the RF Amp and found my follie; I had munged the placement of R50 and
>was dumping Tx power straight into the base of Q16. I pulled everything
>apart in the RF Amp, replaced Q15 and Q16 for good measure and put it
>back together correctly.
It always helps to build the circuit correctly. That said, been
there/done that!!!! :-)
>
>
>Voila, things started looking better through the RF Amp, so I connected
>the driver and it all just worked! I'm looking at like 30v p2p after the
>output filter.
Let's see, 30 volts p-p is about 2.25 watts. Just about right
for 3 2N2222A without pushing them. A watt per transistors is
my recommended maximum for them.
>Alignment wasn't too difficult either (nice to have a "big" rig around
>for these things).
Indeed....most helpful.
>Looks like it's putting out about 4 watts out measured on my MFJ tuner
>(which is apparently innaccurate at low power).
A generous meter; go by the o'scope reading.
>Going to try for a few QSO's later, maybe and maybe a fox pelt or two.
>;) Then its on to building the RIT and replacing a few of the wires that
>I melted the insulation off while waving the soldering iron all over the
>place.
Start using teflon coated hookup wire, and the melted insulation
problem goes away.
>Final tally; 5 metal 2n2222a burned to a crisp, 3 plastic 2n2222's and a
>bunch of 1N4148 diodes.
I'd say that's about the norm for a brand new build. That's less
than two bucks worth of devices, or a single NE602.
> One metal 2n2222a exploded in a bright burning
>orange poof which if I could duplicate again on purpose might be worth
>it just to see the show.
Sounds like you may have discovered an good replacement igniter
for model rocketry!! Wish you had a picture of that episode.
>Also have to figure out what kinda box to put it in.
TenTec TP47 is a good choice, or something similar in size.
>I'll say it again 'cause it feels good;
>Muhhhhhaaaaaahhhhhhaaaaawwwww!!!!
Say it one more time..........
Delighted you were successful. Don't forget to take a picture
of the final product, make a contact with it, and submit a
copy of the picture to Preston Douglas, WJ2V for an authentic
2N2/40 certificate.
72 and many thanks for sharing all the joys and frustrations John,
Jim, K8IQY
At 06:23 AM 11/9/01 +0000, Tom wrote:
>I got stage VII going, tested, and it seems ok. I am having real
>problems with my trimmers! I can't seem to adjust them. I am using
>R/S tools, they seem to be too soft to "twist" the caps, and they
>have a tough time fitting into the openings of the caps.
>I do have two nice 9-50pF caps from Ocean State Electronics. Will
>they have enough capacitance for stage VII and VI?
Probably going to be light on capacitance with only 50 pF max.
You can add a 22pF to 47pF across them though to hit the
range that you need. The tuning will be a bit more broad
as a result, but that isn't a big deal.
>Thanks for help, I'm getting close!
Yes you are. I'm stoked!!!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In 2n2-40@y..., ags@i... wrote:
Ooops! Lets make that R40..
>
> When c40 is rmove completely, I notice that some of the
> transmitted signal does still punch through altghough I don't know
> how.
>
>
Thought you guys might like to see what I do at work...I'm uploading a photo
of a transformer that failed the current overload test...not exactly QRP or
2N2 related, but good for a little chuckle. Bad news is that there was no
card in the digital camera to catch the flames.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspOh my! Kinda makes my orange glow-bug 2n2222a look tame!
John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
>
> Thought you guys might like to see what I do at work...I'm uploading a photo
> of a transformer that failed the current overload test...not exactly QRP or
> 2N2 related, but good for a little chuckle. Bad news is that there was no
> card in the digital camera to catch the flames.
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJohn and Gang.... This is most curious. I did more testing this afternoon and evening and I have a dual band 2N2-40+ !!!!! I did copy W1AW on 7.048 and at the same time copyed WWCR on 12.060!!! How is that for kewl. So, I tried it with both the R2000 and the TS680s and results were the same. I think it is a DBM problem, but not sure. HELP!!!!!!! W1AW was kinda weak but it was really pumping out the WWCR signal!
Dennis
|
797|797|2001-11-09 19:42:09|Lee Mairs|Snortin' in Falls Church|I finally gave up on waiting for the 1/8 watt resistor sets to get here, and
dug in this afternoon. I decided to use my new islander, but I think that
was a mistake. It took about 30 minutes to get the two transistors in the
first section soldered in w/o shorting to ground. Hopefully, I'll get the
hang of it...
73 de Lee, km4yy
Remember: all harddisks are the same in size: 7MB free.
-- Nils Faerber
|
798|797|2001-11-09 19:58:52|wb0wao@yahoo.com|Re: Snortin' in Falls Church|I have been using the islander cutter as well and the secret is to use the thinnest solder you can and the sharpest tip that you have. Also you really need to play with the layout first and I have found that 5 leads is about the most that can fit on one island. It takes me more time to determine the placing of the islands than it does to actually fill the board, hi hi. I have been doing the sections on individual boards and "nailing" them down to a wood base. I will use desoldering braid to "join" the sections together. I found (so far) Stage III the most difficult to island. Finally had to mount the DBM on a seperate board. Good thing to because I think it is messed up, hi hi.
72 es snort rosin!
Dennis
|
799|799|2001-11-09 20:50:54|John Wagner|DX!!!!|Guys, just gotta tell you this; I've been back and forth to the bench
fiddling with the mute circuit.
While hooking the rig up I hear K1RX over in NH signing with UT5MD -
figure no way, and no way I'm gonna hear a UT5 on 40m...
Well guess what? I heard him, and when they got done I called him
with the 2n2-40 and he came back and gave me a 579!!!!!!! Vlad in
Kremenchuk Ukraine!!! I gave him an honest 559, he said tnx fer QSO
73 and that was that! 0140Z on 11/10/2001 and it's in the log forever.
That is the furthest DX I've ever worked on 40m, and it happened on
the 2n2-40 sitting naked on top of my tuner.
I still can't believe it!
73 de John, N1QO
|
800|799|2001-11-09 21:20:25|Delbert Long|Re: DX!!!!|Wow, Wow, and DOUBLE WOW!!! I used to get some pretty cool DX on 40 SSB
years ago...but never that good...
Way to go, John...sure good to have people to talk to who understand my
language...the guys here at work think I must be crazy. Getting excited
over making contact with somebody halfway around the world using Morse Code
of all things!
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 01:50 AM 11/10/01 +0000, John, N1QO wrote:
>Guys, just gotta tell you this; I've been back and forth to the bench
>fiddling with the mute circuit.
>
>While hooking the rig up I hear K1RX over in NH signing with UT5MD -
>figure no way, and no way I'm gonna hear a UT5 on 40m...
>
>Well guess what? I heard him, and when they got done I called him
>with the 2n2-40 and he came back and gave me a 579!!!!!!! Vlad in
>Kremenchuk Ukraine!!! I gave him an honest 559, he said tnx fer QSO
>73 and that was that! 0140Z on 11/10/2001 and it's in the log forever.
>
>That is the furthest DX I've ever worked on 40m, and it happened on
>the 2n2-40 sitting naked on top of my tuner.
>
>I still can't believe it!
Forgot to tell everyone at the onset of all this crazyness,
2N2/40s have Mojo too, and it's very special!
72 and nice catch John.
Jim, K8IQY
John! How do we follow this??? :-). Congratulations on both the DX
contact and a working radio.
I decided to install the rit before adjusting my frequency range. After
hooking it up I again looked for the VFO signal and at first thought
failure, but when I picked up the Rit board I heard a signal move by.
While holding the board between my fingers I was able to find the VFO and
verify that the 10 turn pot and rit pot both worked but only as long as I
held the rit board between my fingers. I found I could move the signal
slightly just by applying more pressure between the two fingers without
touching any parts or pads. The signal also sounded rough or unstable
and when I would let go I could not find any signal at all. What problem
should I look for here? Not much on the rit board and all connections
seem to look good. Is this a stage better saved for last???
Thanks
James KC5HAC
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Hey, it only get better Lee!
Seriously, I've been meaning to order one of those NJ Islanders myself.
73 de John, N1QO
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> I finally gave up on waiting for the 1/8 watt resistor sets to get here, and
> dug in this afternoon. I decided to use my new islander, but I think that
> was a mistake. It took about 30 minutes to get the two transistors in the
> first section soldered in w/o shorting to ground. Hopefully, I'll get the
> hang of it...
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
>
> Remember: all harddisks are the same in size: 7MB free.
> -- Nils Faerber
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com[painful memories of standing for hours holding rabit ear antennas on a
TV]
Sounds like there is a bad solder joint somewhere on the RIT - reheat
'em all and add a little solder to be certain. Triple check that it's
hooked into the correct spots on the VFO. Jim released a correction to
the initial update, make sure you have that.
Can you take a clear picture and upload it to the Yahoo! site, maybe a
fresh pair of eyes can spot something?
73 de John, N1QO
james-rhonda@juno.com wrote:
>
> John! How do we follow this??? :-). Congratulations on both the DX
> contact and a working radio.
> I decided to install the rit before adjusting my frequency range. After
> hooking it up I again looked for the VFO signal and at first thought
> failure, but when I picked up the Rit board I heard a signal move by.
> While holding the board between my fingers I was able to find the VFO and
> verify that the 10 turn pot and rit pot both worked but only as long as I
> held the rit board between my fingers. I found I could move the signal
> slightly just by applying more pressure between the two fingers without
> touching any parts or pads. The signal also sounded rough or unstable
> and when I would let go I could not find any signal at all. What problem
> should I look for here? Not much on the rit board and all connections
> seem to look good. Is this a stage better saved for last???
> Thanks
> James KC5HAC
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi Tom,
As a cheep solution to the trimmer tool problem I use a piece of PCB
board. Sawed and filed to shape and with the copper sanded of. You can
shape it perfectly and it is much harder then the plastic tools.
Good luck,
Hubert
-----Original Message-----
From:
tdufres@hotmail.com [mailto:
tdufres@hotmail.com]
Sent: 09 November 2001 06:24
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Trimmer woes
I got stage VII going, tested, and it seems ok. I am having real
problems with my trimmers! I can't seem to adjust them. I am using
R/S tools, they seem to be too soft to "twist" the caps, and they
have a tough time fitting into the openings of the caps.
I do have two nice 9-50pF caps from Ocean State Electronics. Will
they have enough capacitance for stage VII and VI?
Thanks for help, I'm getting close!
Tom
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/I had the same problem. Make sure you have the RIT board ground hooked up to the main board ground, once I did that, my problems went away. Hi hi, took me a couple hours to figure that one out!
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
807|802|2001-11-10 07:44:46|wb0wao@yahoo.com|Re: Rit problem|I had the same problem. Make sure you have the RIT board ground hooked up to the main board ground, once I did that, my problems went away. Hi hi, took me a couple hours to figure that one out!
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
808|802|2001-11-10 10:59:27|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Rit problem|At 12:44 PM 11/10/01 +0000, Dennis - WB0WAO wrote:
>I had the same problem. Make sure you have the RIT board ground hooked up
>to the main board ground, once I did that, my problems went away. Hi hi,
>took me a couple hours to figure that one out!
>
>Dennis - WB0WAO
Dennis,
You get the prize for the correct answer!!! Good going. I was
hoping someone would figure out what was going on with the RIT
that was sounding like an Aurora signal.
Besides the obvious wires that must be connected to the other
main parts of the 2N2/40 circuitry, a ground wire from the
RIT board to the 2N2/40 main board is required for the RIT
to operate properly. If you think about it, we need a complete
circuit for each of the wires going to the main board. Each
circuit is completed through the ground wire.
72, and many thanks for the help,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....nice to hear you this morning on 40. Your signal was
right down near the noise, and there was considerable QSB,
but you were 519 here in Fenton. Your 2 watts was doing
FB for a Saturday morning at 11:00.
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 03:48 PM 11/9/01 +0000, Dennis, WB0WAO wrote:
>Hi Gang,
> Well, got stage III hooked up and checked out, and it is receiving..
> but not where it should be. Have the VFO set to 2.097 and listening on
> the R-2000 at 4.915, now I SHOULD be monitoring 7.012 if my math is right,
Yes, that's correct.
> but I am hearing a SW broadcast station (WWCR) that I believe is
> transmitting at 9.475!!! HELP!!!!!!!
Not good! Something is not right in the front-end.
>
>
>BTW the RIT works great and moves in the same "direction" as the VFO (a
>very good thing). Cant really tell if the RF Gain is operational yet, and
>can't get a peak on the varible caps either.
Well not being able to peak the double tuned circuit in the front-end
if part of the problem, but I'd guess the RF Amplifier isn't working
correctly either. Maybe it is acting as a detector, or oscillating.
Make sure that it is wired correctly, and that the VFO and RF Amplifier
are driving the DBM correctly. Also, make sure you wound and wired
the DBM transformers correctly, along with putting the diodes in
properly.
> But that will be worked on after the freq problem is solved. I did
> tune to where I heard STRONG CW sigs on the SW-40+ but nothing there!!!
>
>Dennis
Let us know what you found when you get it working properly please.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Del and all:
Here I am waiting for Nebraska-Kansas State game to start.(I am a trainer/PT
for Nebraska).
Heard all the DX and good news RE: the 2N40 rig and getting excited about
finishing the last stage soon, hopefully by sunday. If the solder gods and
hold up and Murphy stays away, I should be transmitting "naked" by then.
Cross your fingers!
Tom
KC0GXX
>From: "Delbert Long" <AD6WE@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [2n2-40] DX!!!!
>Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 02:20:24 +0000
>
>Wow, Wow, and DOUBLE WOW!!! I used to get some pretty cool DX on 40 SSB
>years ago...but never that good...
>
>Way to go, John...sure good to have people to talk to who understand my
>language...the guys here at work think I must be crazy. Getting excited
>over making contact with somebody halfway around the world using Morse Code
>of all things!
>
>Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
>Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
>Einstein
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 11:08 PM 11/9/01 +0000, Dennis, WB0WAO wrote:
>John and Gang.... This is most curious. I did more testing this afternoon
>and evening and I have a dual band 2N2-40+ !!!!! I did copy W1AW on 7.048
>and at the same time copyed WWCR on 12.060!!! How is that for kewl.
Not cool in my book! :-) Something dreadfully wrong I believe.
The signals up on 12+ MHz should not be getting through the front-end
filters.
> So, I tried it with both the R2000 and the TS680s and results were the
> same. I think it is a DBM problem, but not sure. HELP!!!!!!! W1AW was
> kinda weak but it was really pumping out the WWCR signal!
Probably a considerable difference in power output between those two
stations, and better propagation up on 12 MHz. Any you are correct,
you may also have a DBM problem, besides the front-end possibly
not being right.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim and gang...
Found part of the problem! Went to take the existing DBM apart to rewind the torids and found a solder bridge from one of the leads on the input side that should have gone to the diodes was shorted out to ground! Building a new DBM now and will finish it in the morning. Need to get to sleep as I have to work tonite ... grrrr.
Should have the new one in tomorrow and will test it out. Hope that solves part of the problem!!!
72 es TNX
Dennis
|
813|813|2001-11-10 12:59:31|Howard Kraus|Sidetone mods?|Hi Jim, first time on this list. To others, I have
(2) 2N2/40s working (and the certificates to prove
it!).
I read with interest the recent thread on loud
sidetone. Are there mods to deal with loud sidetone
and keying transistion clicking that aren't addressed
by the 2N7000 muting mod? My ears would like to know.
TNX es 72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.comHey Dennis,
Glad to hear your're onto something. Keep us up to date on your
progress, I'm most interested in how everyone else is doing.
73 de John, N1QO
wb0wao@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Jim and gang...
> Found part of the problem! Went to take the existing DBM apart to rewind the torids and found a solder bridge from one of the leads on the input side that should have gone to the diodes was shorted out to ground! Building a new DBM now and will finish it in the morning. Need to get to sleep as I have to work tonite ... grrrr.
> Should have the new one in tomorrow and will test it out. Hope that solves part of the problem!!!
>
> 72 es TNX
>
> Dennis
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI finished up the filter stage this afternoon. I hooked the output
(just after C26) to the antenna of my "big" receiver and listened to
it on 4.915. It was much noiser than the signal I got before the
output stage (tab C on sheet 2 of the schematics). I had almost no
noise, and a nice signal, at tab C. The signals at C26 were a bit
louder, but not much louder, and the filter narrowed the bandwidth
quite a bit. Does this noise indicate I have a problem with the
filter stage?
Thanks,
Jake -- N4UY
|
816|802|2001-11-10 20:08:33|james-rhonda@juno.com|Re: Rit problem|Thanks for all the information. I do not have a ground wire from the rit
board to the main board but it will have one later tonight.
Thanks John for the forgotten memories of holding the tips of rabbit
ears so that the program would come in better :-).
James KC5HAC
On Sat, 10 Nov 2001 12:43:26 -0000
wb0wao@yahoo.com writes:
> I had the same problem. Make sure you have the RIT board ground
> hooked up to the main board ground, once I did that, my problems
> went away. Hi hi, took me a couple hours to figure that one out!
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Hi Howard,
Welcome to the 2N2/40 builders group.
Guess you have read the thread. Have you had any sidetone and/or key
transition issues with either of your 2N2/40s? If so, what if any
corrective measures have you taken?
72
Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Howard Kraus wrote:
> Hi Jim, first time on this list. To others, I have
> (2) 2N2/40s working (and the certificates to prove
> it!).
>
> I read with interest the recent thread on loud
> sidetone. Are there mods to deal with loud sidetone
> and keying transistion clicking that aren't addressed
> by the 2N7000 muting mod? My ears would like to know.
>
> TNX es 72
>
> Howard Kraus, K2UD
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Find a job, post your resume.
> http://careers.yahoo.com
Jake:
I had the same thing happen to me, and asked the same question about 10 days
ago. Here is what MAY be happening.....
The filter stage also has an amplifier. I wonder if You may be overloading
the amp or something, and you are getting lots of noise.
Here is what I did.
Try a MUCH smaller antenna, like a 2 foot piece of wire, and see if that
corrects the problem. You MAY be getting too much signal from a bigger/more
powerful antenna.
I am not an engineer or even play one on TV, but that worked for me. When
you test the next stages, ie, stage V and VI, you will be rewarded with that
nice audio again!
Hope it works for you
Tom
KC0GXX
|
819|819|2001-11-10 23:23:23|james-rhonda@juno.com|VFO sounds better|I am glad to report that the VFO sounds much better witht the ground
wire attached. Still have a little bit of hand capacitance when I get
near the board. I have now removed three turns from L1 and am very
close. I went back to a old post and read where spreading the coils
apart might get me where I want. Right now the spacing is very tight.
Will start again tomorrow after work. I am learning alot here and I just
started soThanks for the help!
James
KC5HAC
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Welcome to the group Howard, glad to have you on board.
I'm experimenting with various changes to the Mute circuit and
attempting to make it work a little better. Having said that, I know
enough to be dangerous but am learning to be more dangerous all the
time.
The problem (as I see it) is the 2n7000 seems to let the initial blast
of sidetone into the audio amp momentarily before it shuts down. What I
find interesting is that removing R40 completely seems to have no effect
on this. If I key the radio and leave it down, the volume does drop
considerably.
In comparing the 2n2/40+ circuit to other similiar circuits (like the
MH101 SW30+), I don't see much of a difference in the implementation. So
maybe the fix is actually somewhere else in the radio (audio amp maybe?)
and not in the current mute circuit. What I'm wondering is that maybe a
brute force fix would work; an additional mute could be inserted at the
output to the speaker.
73 de John, N1QO
Howard Kraus wrote:
>
> Hi Jim, first time on this list. To others, I have
> (2) 2N2/40s working (and the certificates to prove
> it!).
>
> I read with interest the recent thread on loud
> sidetone. Are there mods to deal with loud sidetone
> and keying transistion clicking that aren't addressed
> by the 2N7000 muting mod? My ears would like to know.
>
> TNX es 72
>
> Howard Kraus, K2UD
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 12:41 AM 11/11/01 +0000, Jake -- N4UY wrote:
>I finished up the filter stage this afternoon. I hooked the output
>(just after C26) to the antenna of my "big" receiver and listened to
>it on 4.915. It was much noiser than the signal I got before the
>output stage (tab C on sheet 2 of the schematics). I had almost no
>noise, and a nice signal, at tab C. The signals at C26 were a bit
>louder, but not much louder, and the filter narrowed the bandwidth
>quite a bit. Does this noise indicate I have a problem with the
>filter stage?
Probably not Jake. I can think of several possibilities, the first
being that you are severely over driving the down stream receiver.
When you take the output off to the receiver after C26, you've
now got about +65 dB of gain that the receiver doesn't usually
have to deal with. It might work a bit better if you backed down
the RF gain control on the receiver, but the signal may still
be overloading the receiver's RF amp, depending on how it is
configured. In contrast, when you came directly from the
Rx DBM, you only had about +10 of additional gain.
The second thought is that you may not have actually had the
signal from the 2N2/40 properly tuned in you receiver. It
isn't exactly at 4.9152 MHz, as the center of the passband of the
filter is a bit above that frequency. You might want to tune
the receiver around a bit to find the "best" signal condition.
There is a possibility that the IF Amplifier is oscillating
as well as amplifying. If you have a scope, you can probe the
output to see if there is any unwanted signal coming out of it.
If it is oscillating, reducing the value of C25 will make it
stop. A 330pF to 390pF would be a good choice. A simple
RF probe connected to your DMM can also be used for this test.
With the input of the receiver shorted, check the output of
the IF Amplifier. You should not get any significant reading.
If you do, it is probably oscillating, most likely, in the
2-3 MHz region.
On a brighter note, it sounds like the VBW filter is working
as expected, and I'd guess the rest of the receiver is too,
and you're dealing with an overload problem to the other receiver
only.
72 and keep us updated regarding what you find,
Jim, K8IQY
At 09:59 AM 11/10/01 -0800, Howard Kraus, K2UD wrote:
>Hi Jim, first time on this list.
Welcome aboard........
> To others, I have
>(2) 2N2/40s working (and the certificates to prove
>it!).
Yes he does! I've seen both of them and the building is
outstanding, and they both work well too, except for
the anomaly in the Rx mute, that we have not been able
to solve.
>I read with interest the recent thread on loud
>sidetone. Are there mods to deal with loud sidetone
>and keying transistion clicking that aren't addressed
>by the 2N7000 muting mod? My ears would like to know.
Eventually, collectively, we will figure out where this
is coming from. Mine works quite well, but others are
having less success.
72 and keep tuned,
Jim, K8IQY
At 09:41 AM 11/11/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>Welcome to the group Howard, glad to have you on board.
>
>I'm experimenting with various changes to the Mute circuit and
>attempting to make it work a little better. Having said that, I know
>enough to be dangerous but am learning to be more dangerous all the
>time.
>
>The problem (as I see it) is the 2n7000 seems to let the initial blast
>of sidetone into the audio amp momentarily before it shuts down. What I
>find interesting is that removing R40 completely seems to have no effect
>on this. If I key the radio and leave it down, the volume does drop
>considerably.
>
>In comparing the 2n2/40+ circuit to other similiar circuits (like the
>MH101 SW30+), I don't see much of a difference in the implementation.
Except, the 2N2/40 uses a MOSFET and those others use a JFET. Not
exactly the same animal.
> So
>maybe the fix is actually somewhere else in the radio (audio amp maybe?)
>and not in the current mute circuit. What I'm wondering is that maybe a
>brute force fix would work; an additional mute could be inserted at the
>output to the speaker.
Another 2N7000 could be used, but it might not solve the problem,
is indeed the problem has something to do with the switching speed
of the device (which I doubt) or something similar.
For what it is worth, I have been changing my rig a little to
see if I could make it any better, and found that having C43
a 4.7uF capacitor, and changing C68 from a 0.01 to a 10uF
capacitor is about optimal, but there is a keying speed where
the rig sounds a bit "thumpy". Above and below that, it is
very good. I'm about ready to try a JFET just to see if it
can be made to work here. Others may want to try this approach
too.
I also tried adding a capacitor across Q21 to delay the
transmitter coming on the air, but that didn't seem to
contribute anything positive. I did have the rig to the
point that it wouldn't come on the air at all during a "dit"
as the delay was way too long.
72 all,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
Although my sidetone and key transitions are not quit where I would
like it to be, some improvements have been made.
Probably the single most dramatic improvement to sidetone was achieved
by doing Jim's mod to the IF amp that reduced its gain by 10dB. With
the original circuit, the IF amp was self oscillating which seemed to
be causing the loudness and distortion in the sidetone. The new values
at R40 and C43 (2.2M and 10uF) also seemed to help.
Recalling some thread of many moons ago about the rise time of Tx, I
also put a 22uF electrolytic from the emitter of Q22 to ground. That
seemed to do alot to reduce (although not eliminate) pops and thumps.
May also improve the keying envelope..who knows.
The VBW filter upgrade has also recently been completed (thanks again
Jim) with LEDs and MV1662s and guess what. The sidetone sounds even
better although I strongly suspect placebo effect there.
On to the RF and mixer amps as soon as I get them chokes.
Hope some of this helps.
72
Arth W6AGS
|
825|813|2001-11-11 14:10:06|John Wagner|Re: Sidetone mods?|"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> For what it is worth, I have been changing my rig a little to
> see if I could make it any better, and found that having C43
> a 4.7uF capacitor, and changing C68 from a 0.01 to a 10uF
> capacitor is about optimal, but there is a keying speed where
> the rig sounds a bit "thumpy". Above and below that, it is
> very good. I'm about ready to try a JFET just to see if it
> can be made to work here. Others may want to try this approach
> too.
This seams to make a pretty big difference. It's not perfect, but it's
much better.
If you don't mind Jim (or someone else), can you tell us the purpose of
C43 and C68 and what effect changing the values has? I have an idea, but
have stuck my foot in my mouth publicly enough this month. ;)
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
>
> I also tried adding a capacitor across Q21 to delay the
> transmitter coming on the air, but that didn't seem to
> contribute anything positive. I did have the rig to the
> point that it wouldn't come on the air at all during a "dit"
> as the delay was way too long.
>
> 72 all,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim --K8IQY:
Thanks for the reply. I messed around with the rig a bit more late
last night. I used my antenna hookup to my "big" rig as a probe and
checked the signal at several points in the filter/amp stage. The
signal/noise conditions were pretty good up until the last transistor
in the amp (Q7). In the course of my experimenting I turned down the
RF drive of my FT-990 and the output signal sounded pretty good -- so
maybe I'm OK.
This is a great project -- I'm learning more about superhet receivers
than I ever did with all the kits I've built; and I appreciate the
advice from you and the others in the group that responded to my
question.
73,
Jake -- N4UY
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> Probably not Jake. I can think of several possibilities, the first
> being that you are severely over driving the down stream receiver.
> When you take the output off to the receiver after C26, you've
> now got about +65 dB of gain that the receiver doesn't usually
> have to deal with. It might work a bit better if you backed down
> the RF gain control on the receiver, but the signal may still
> be overloading the receiver's RF amp, depending on how it is
> configured. In contrast, when you came directly from the
> Rx DBM, you only had about +10 of additional gain.
At 02:13 PM 11/11/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> >
> > For what it is worth, I have been changing my rig a little to
> > see if I could make it any better, and found that having C43
> > a 4.7uF capacitor, and changing C68 from a 0.01 to a 10uF
> > capacitor is about optimal, but there is a keying speed where
> > the rig sounds a bit "thumpy". Above and below that, it is
> > very good. I'm about ready to try a JFET just to see if it
> > can be made to work here. Others may want to try this approach
> > too.
>
>This seams to make a pretty big difference. It's not perfect, but it's
>much better.
Well I played some more with it this morning, and think I've got
an even better setup. I went back to having C43 at 10uF, put
a 4.7uF from the collector of Q21 to ground, put a 4.7uF at
C68, and changed diode D18 from a 1N4148 to a 1N5817 Schottky
rectifier. That last change seemed to make a profound difference
in the way the FET mute switch worked. Perhaps the 1N4148 was not
able to handle the forward current from C43 discharging through it,
and was not taking the gate of the FET to ground fast enough.
>If you don't mind Jim (or someone else), can you tell us the purpose of
>C43 and C68 and what effect changing the values has? I have an idea, but
>have stuck my foot in my mouth publicly enough this month. ;)
OK, I'll do that, but nobody laugh! :-) The basic idea behind this
FET switch is to turn off the audio to the audio amplifier when the
transmitter comes on the air. I chose the 2N7000 MOSFET because it
is readily available, and has very low on resistance, and can switch
on and off quite fast. When the receiver is receiving, the Rx line is at
12 volts. This drives the gate of the FET through the voltage divider
made up of R42 and R41. About 1/2 of Rx, or 6 volts is available to
drive the gate. When the gate is above about 3 volts, the FET will
turn on. Each FET has a different 'turn on' point, so using 6 volts
assures us that all FETs used will work. Capacitor C43 is used to
delay the return of the receive audio after the transmitter goes off
the air, or the key line raised above ground. The Rx voltage flows
through R42, charging C43. It takes a number of milliseconds to recharge
C43 to a voltage level sufficient to cause the FET to begin conducting
again. However, on key down, the charge on this capacitor is
dumped, almost instantly, through diode D18, and the impedance
of the keying device connected to the key line. Because the
discharge is much faster than the recharge, the audio is cut off
in theory, at, or before the transmitter comes on the air. Ideally,
you would want the receiver to be completely muted before the
transmitter comes on, but that isn't easy to do with a simple
circuit.
Capacitor C68 is supposed to be a simple RF bypass, in this version
of the keying/mute circuitry. However, making it larger, tends
to delay the transmitter from coming on the air for the amount
of time it takes to discharge C68 through the impedance of the
keying device. Since that impedance is usually quite small, the
delay due to C68 is minimal, but apparently somewhat helpful
in reducing transistion artifacts, know better as 'thumps'
and 'clicks'.
Adding a 4.7uF capacitor from the collector of Q21 to ground affects
the activation of the transmitter in the same way as C68. It
adds a bit of delay, so that the receiver is more fully muted
before the transmit signal comes on. Once again, remember that
the sidetone that you hear is your own transmit signal being
received. That signal is very strong into the receiver, gets
limited to about 1.3 volts p-p by diodes D25 and D26, and then
is passed to the input of the receiver. That's a lot of signal
for the downstream circuitry to handle. That's why inventing
a good QSK switching system isn't trivial. Also remember, at the
time this rig was designed, there was a limit of 22 transistors,
that's why some of the circuitry isn't as sophisticated as it
might be. In fact, I started the design of the 2N2/40 by doing
a very elegant Rx/Tx driver, with suitable delays for making the
receive to transmit and back transistions very smooth, but it
took 6 transistors, so it was scrapped for the simpler version
in the rig.
There, that's a very long answer, that also gives some background
engineering information too. Hope it's useful to those who
have a rig running, and are wanting to tweak it for best
performance.
72 and stayed tuned, while I was writing this, I had another
idea that needs to be modelled and tested.
Jim, K8IQY
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> At 02:13 PM 11/11/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>
> OK, I'll do that, but nobody laugh! :-) The basic idea behind this
Laugh? Sheesh, thanks a lot for that explanation Jim!
> I went back to having C43 at 10uF, put
> a 4.7uF from the collector of Q21 to ground, put a 4.7uF at
> C68, and changed diode D18 from a 1N4148 to a 1N5817 Schottky
> rectifier. That last change seemed to make a profound difference
> in the way the FET mute switch worked. Perhaps the 1N4148 was not
> able to handle the forward current from C43 discharging through it,
> and was not taking the gate of the FET to ground fast enough.
I applied these changes and it does make a big difference. I just
happened to have a 1N5817 in my junk box too!
What I get know is a little bit of a "thump" on initial keydown and then
it's pretty quiet while sending.
Thanks again Jim, I'm having a lot of fun with this radio!
73 de John, N1QO
>
> 72 and stayed tuned, while I was writing this, I had another
> idea that needs to be modelled and tested.
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWell, I didn't have a 1N5817 but I did have a 1N5819 which has the
same spec except for max voltage. So in it went and I think it really
helps hasten the receive fall time over that 1N914 I was using.
Also added the 4.7uF where suggested from Rx to ground and from the
collector of Q21 to ground. I didn't hear much difference. Remember
that the 22uF cap that I have from the emitter of Q22 was still in
place. When I remove it, however, the key transitions sound worse.
I am fairly certain that the 22uF idea is Jim's from a long ago thread
and it seems to work well. Maybe Jim, you could revisit that idea for
us 'cause it really seems to work for me and I still have plenty of
time left for a dit. 8~}
Rig sidetone is really starting to sound quite tolerable. Now I need
to reclaim some of that lost gain. First the mixer amp then the RF
amp....soon as I get them chokes...8~}
Those LEDs really brighten up the cityscape also.
Hope some of this helps!
72
Arth W6AGS
|
830|813|2001-11-11 20:05:50|Howard Kraus|Re: Sidetone mods?|Hi Arth,
Yes, both my 2N2s have the same symptom. Remove R40,
still hear sidetone. Remove the 2N7000, leaving R40
intact, have sidetone. It is the "damped" type of
sidetone that others have experienced. I do notice
that the FET does receive nearly 0V during keying, or
so close to 0V that you can barely measure the
difference. The FET is working properly, but it can
still pass a fair amount of sidetone along with the
thumping.
I also experience the thumping that occurs during
keying. That seems to be the most objectionable quirk
to my ears, it's sharp no matter what volume setting I
have. I'm going to try some of the changes that Jim
speaks about on 11/11. I'll report on what changes I
experience, hopefully it won't be too long before I
put them in (real busy here!).
72 all
Howard Kraus, K2UD
---
w6ags@qsl.net wrote:
> Hi Howard,
>
> Welcome to the 2N2/40 builders group.
>
> Guess you have read the thread. Have you had any
> sidetone and/or key
> transition issues with either of your 2N2/40s? If
> so, what if any
> corrective measures have you taken?
>
> 72
> Arth W6AGS
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., Howard Kraus
> wrote:
> > Hi Jim, first time on this list. To others, I
> have
> > (2) 2N2/40s working (and the certificates to prove
> > it!).
> >
> > I read with interest the recent thread on loud
> > sidetone. Are there mods to deal with loud
> sidetone
> > and keying transistion clicking that aren't
> addressed
> > by the 2N7000 muting mod? My ears would like to
> know.
> >
> > TNX es 72
> >
> > Howard Kraus, K2UD
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Find a job, post your resume.
> > http://careers.yahoo.com
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.comJim's mod to the IF amp eliminated the "damped" loudness in my rig.
The sidetone then responded as expected to different values of R40.
The mod reduces the gain of the stage which was self oscillating. That
"punch through" with R40 removed is all but gone also.
The key tansition clicks and thumps become a matter of increasing the
rise time and reducing the fall time of both receiver and transmitter.
Try some of the suggestions. Check out Jim's new schematics in the
photos section of this e-group. So far, I've done all but the RF and
mixer amps and improvement is noticable.
May the thread be with you.
72
Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Howard Kraus wrote:
> Hi Arth,
>
> Yes, both my 2N2s have the same symptom. Remove R40,
> still hear sidetone. Remove the 2N7000, leaving R40
> intact, have sidetone. It is the "damped" type of
> sidetone that others have experienced. I do notice
> that the FET does receive nearly 0V during keying, or
> so close to 0V that you can barely measure the
> difference. The FET is working properly, but it can
> still pass a fair amount of sidetone along with the
> thumping.
>
> I also experience the thumping that occurs during
> keying. That seems to be the most objectionable quirk
> to my ears, it's sharp no matter what volume setting I
> have. I'm going to try some of the changes that Jim
> speaks about on 11/11. I'll report on what changes I
> experience, hopefully it won't be too long before I
> put them in (real busy here!).
>
> 72 all
>
Group,
Seems several folks have made much more progress than I've been able
to make. Just finished the VFO and will test sometime this coming
week. Not able to get much time into snorting solder when I drive
almost an hour one way to work every day.
Great to hear some are on the air. Guess I might be on sometime next
year at this pace.
Got one question, After I wound the VFO output transformer I noticed I
wound mine with primary and secondary interlaced (P & S laying
next to each other as each turn is put on the toriod)while it looks
like in one of the pictures that the primary is on one section of the
teroid and the secondary on another section. Does it matter? Seems
like the coupling would be tighter if the primary and secondary were
wound on the toriod at the same time in such way that each turn of the
P & S is laying next to the other.
73,
Ken
|
833|832|2001-11-11 23:12:21|w6ags@qsl.net|Re: 2N2 40 Progress Slow|Evening Ken,
--- In 2n2-40@y..., kenm1@e... wrote:
> Group,
>
> Seems several folks have made much more progress than I've been able
> to make. Just finished the VFO and will test sometime this coming
> week. Not able to get much time into snorting solder when I drive
> almost an hour one way to work every day.
>
> Great to hear some are on the air. Guess I might be on sometime next
> year at this pace.
Don't get discouraged. Some of us started building back when the
original article was published. Keep on meltin' solder. You will be
glad you did. This is a radio you can proud of having built from
scratch.
>
> Got one question, After I wound the VFO output transformer I noticed
I
> wound mine with primary and secondary interlaced (P & S laying
> next to each other as each turn is put on the toriod)while it looks
> like in one of the pictures that the primary is on one section of
the
> teroid and the secondary on another section. Does it matter? Seems
> like the coupling would be tighter if the primary and secondary were
> wound on the toriod at the same time in such way that each turn of
the
> P & S is laying next to the other.
Shouldn't matter as practically all the magnetic flux flows through
the toroid. Interlace 'em, twist 'em, keep 'em seperate, makes no
measurable difference...imho of course
>
> 73,
> Ken
72 es GL
Arth W6AGS
I'm also part of the slow start, slow build group. I've managed to
get my VFO working but it only seems to cover about 50 Hz instead of
the 100 its supposed to. I had to take a turn off of the inductor
bring the lower freqency into range. I have a 5-20 pf trimmer at TC 3
but the VFO range is still too small. The output is only about 0.4 V
on my rf probe. At the top of the range the freqency starts going
down again real fast and then it stops VFO'ing (?).
I've rechecked my work and can't find the mistakes that are probably
lurking there. I'm going to take another crack at finding where I
went wrong but, I'd appreciate any hints on what might be wrong.(I
did manage to make it through the first section OK so there may still
be hope for me)
Dan
AD6JY
|
836|836|2001-11-12 00:32:53|tdufres@hotmail.com|Probls with amp stage|Well, I hooked up my antenna and no output :( I HATE that....
After checking for loose joints and part placement, what else do I do?
I notice my sidetone fades after about 1 1/2 seconds, but it sounds
good. Also, I do notice a signal in my DX-398 RCVR, but no output
noted on my MFJ Versa Tuner....
Stage VII seems to be fine. (near as I can tell :) Will check
placement for parts etc again tomorrow nite.
Tools available:
DVM, R/S cheapie
RF probe, handmade
Old Oscilliscope, but not much knowledge how to use it. Can take RF
voltages I think.....
QRPp handbook
Last but not least, my brain (which may not help at this time..)
Ideas?
Tom
|
837|836|2001-11-12 03:36:33|w6ags@qsl.net|Re: Probls with amp stage|Those finals will blow very easily if overdriven. Been there several
times and done that. Be sure the drive (POT 4) to the driver stage is
at minimum and then ease up to about 14 or 15 volts peak output across
50 ohms. You'll toast the finals if you go much beyond that.
Also the output stage has very little tolerance for high SWR so when
you hook up a real antenna, be sure the antenna is tuned or you'll get
more toast.
72 es GL
Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., tdufres@h... wrote:
> Well, I hooked up my antenna and no output :( I HATE that....
> After checking for loose joints and part placement, what else do I
do?
> I notice my sidetone fades after about 1 1/2 seconds, but it sounds
> good. Also, I do notice a signal in my DX-398 RCVR, but no output
> noted on my MFJ Versa Tuner....
>
> Stage VII seems to be fine. (near as I can tell :) Will check
> placement for parts etc again tomorrow nite.
>
> Tools available:
> DVM, R/S cheapie
> RF probe, handmade
> Old Oscilliscope, but not much knowledge how to use it. Can take RF
> voltages I think.....
> QRPp handbook
> Last but not least, my brain (which may not help at this time..)
>
> Ideas?
> Tom
Jim and gang,
Well, yesterday I started over from scratch 'cause I could not find the problems with V2 of the rig. So, I went back and redid it "pure" manhattan style as it was easier and quicker than "islanding" the boards again. I will still build one later using the islander tool, but wanna get one working first.
Well, no more SW BCB junk coming in but think I need to check and see if all the 2222's are still good, VFO output seems to be lower in strength (could I have been overdriving it before?) and I can hear my
2.085 good and strong on the R-2000. Is there a table of voltages for the transistors around??? Two questions....
1. does D8 vary in intensity as you adjust TC1 and TC2 in the input filter.. mine does!
2. it also sounds like it is oscillation as I adjust TC1 and TC2 to certain points, is this normal?
Learning a LOT from my mistakes! And still having fun!!! Back to melting solder!!!!
72 Dennis
|
839|832|2001-11-12 10:56:19|John Wagner|Re: 2N2 40 Progress Slow|Hi Ken,
Glad to hear you're making good progress...
kenm1@ev1.net wrote:
>
> Got one question, After I wound the VFO output transformer I noticed I
> wound mine with primary and secondary interlaced (P & S laying
> next to each other as each turn is put on the toriod)while it looks
> like in one of the pictures that the primary is on one section of the
> teroid and the secondary on another section. Does it matter? Seems
> like the coupling would be tighter if the primary and secondary were
> wound on the toriod at the same time in such way that each turn of the
> P & S is laying next to the other.
We had a discussion about this on the list. Either method is fine. If
you can, search the message archives and I'm sure you'll turn up plenty.
73 de John, N1QO
>
> 73,
> Ken
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThought I was done with another stage, but realize I forgot C1 and C2 in the
RX input filter...no biggie, I can take care of those quick...The LED did
light up, that was nice...
In the absense of a general coverage receiver, what can I do to test it? I
do have a signal generator and spectrum analyzer available here at work, but
how about if I'm at home and all I have is a DVM and the Stinger Singer...
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 03:52 PM 11/12/01 +0000, Dennis, WB0WAO wrote:
>Jim and gang,
> Well, yesterday I started over from scratch 'cause I could not find
> the problems with V2 of the rig. So, I went back and redid it "pure"
> manhattan style as it was easier and quicker than "islanding" the boards
> again. I will still build one later using the islander tool, but wanna
> get one working first.
Sorry to hear that you couldn't find the problems, but at least with
starting over, you have some experience.
> Well, no more SW BCB junk coming in but think I need to check and see
> if all the 2222's are still good, VFO output seems to be lower in
> strength (could I have been overdriving it before?)
No, I doubt it.
> and I can hear my
>2.085 good and strong on the R-2000.
Always a good sign that the VFO is at least running.
> Is there a table of voltages for the transistors around???
Yes, I'll dig out the URL, or you can go look for Mike Schettler, WA6MER
web page where he has all of the voltages for his rig listed.
> Two questions....
>1. does D8 vary in intensity as you adjust TC1 and TC2 in the input filter..
No!
>mine does!
Something is not correct!!!
>2. it also sounds like it is oscillation as I adjust TC1 and TC2 to
>certain points, is this normal?
No, it is probably oscillating all of the time, which means you may have
the 1 turn emitter winding phased incorrectly. Swap the ends of that
1 turn and the amplifier should become nice and stable. Also, check
that the base bypass capacitor was soldered in.
>Learning a LOT from my mistakes!
Good to hear, a positive attitude when you are a beginner always
helps.
> And still having fun!!!
Great.
> Back to melting solder!!!!
Right on.......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>72 Dennis
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 08:36 AM 11/12/01 +0000, Arth W6AGS wrote:
>Those finals will blow very easily if overdriven. Been there several
>times and done that. Be sure the drive (POT 4) to the driver stage is
>at minimum and then ease up to about 14 or 15 volts peak output across
>50 ohms. You'll toast the finals if you go much beyond that.
Good advice from Arth. I think one can safely run 2.5 watts with
3 good 2N2222As in the final setup. Above 2.5 watts, you living
on the edge.
>Also the output stage has very little tolerance for high SWR so when
>you hook up a real antenna, be sure the antenna is tuned or you'll get
>more toast.
Also good advice, although, with the addition of the Zener (R55) in
the final now, the devices are much less prone to blowing up
with high SWR. That said, 2N2222As don't that a lot of abuse like
most RF transistors will. But remember, these weren't supposed to
be RF devices, but high speed saturated switches.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
John -
According to my errata notes for the 2N2222 as presented on K8IQY's web
page, for the TxRx Driver, one is supposed to add a 4.7ufd capacitor between
the junction of R59,R60 and C66 to ground.
On a photo from the web site where you had been posting progress, it looks
like you have the 4.7 ufd capacitor going from the base of Q21 to ground.
Was this an error that you later corrected, or am I missing something dumb?
72 de Lee, km4yy
The next best thing to knowing something is knowing where to find it.
-- Samuel Johnson
|
844|832|2001-11-12 17:52:57|kenm1@ev1.net|Re: 2N2 40 Progress Slow|Hi John,
I was really getting weery seeing the messages go by with a lot of
completions and I'm still on the VFO. Don't get to touch the
project some evenings and others maybe a few if 6 or 7 parts at a
time. The list is a graeat help, yes I'm learning from everyone
else's discussions. Just the fact I can interact is a big help. I'm
going to see if I can get time tonight to hook up the power to the
couple pads and see if I hear something. No scope yet but have
deal working on a Tek 475 that I should be able to get this weekend
if all goes well.
Then on to the third stage given the VFO works.
Thanks for everyones support on the list. I can't wait until the next
QRP event to share where we all have been.
OBTW, I found a small metal break at Harbor Freight for $19.00 (I
think that's the price)and am thinking I'll try my hand at bending
metal box for the project. I think I can get some spare sheet metal so
why not try?
73,
Ken
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> Hi Ken,
>
> Glad to hear you're making good progress...
>
> kenm1@e... wrote:
> >
> > Got one question, After I wound the VFO output transformer I
noticed I
> > wound mine with primary and secondary interlaced (P & S laying
> > next to each other as each turn is put on the toriod)while it
looks
> > like in one of the pictures that the primary is on one section of
the
> > teroid and the secondary on another section. Does it matter? Seems
> > like the coupling would be tighter if the primary and secondary
were
> > wound on the toriod at the same time in such way that each turn of
the
> > P & S is laying next to the other.
>
> We had a discussion about this on the list. Either method is fine.
If
> you can, search the message archives and I'm sure you'll turn up
plenty.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> >
> > 73,
> > Ken
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@w...
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
Arth,
Evening. Guess you'll see my porst to John and progress plus other
things.
Just want to thank you and the group for all the support for a project
of this type. I've built kits before and done some design in my days
but the thing that attracted me to this group is the working together
as a team for the common good. We should all be able to use these on a
fox hunt someday. I'll prpbably be weak due to the antenna resrictions
but I'm still gona try.
73,
Ken, KD2KW/5 Spring, Texas
--- In 2n2-40@y..., w6ags@q... wrote:
> Evening Ken,
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., kenm1@e... wrote:
> > Group,
> >
> > Seems several folks have made much more progress than I've been
able
> > to make. Just finished the VFO and will test sometime this coming
> > week. Not able to get much time into snorting solder when I drive
> > almost an hour one way to work every day.
> >
> > Great to hear some are on the air. Guess I might be on sometime
next
> > year at this pace.
>
> Don't get discouraged. Some of us started building back when the
> original article was published. Keep on meltin' solder. You will be
> glad you did. This is a radio you can proud of having built from
> scratch.
>
> >
> > Got one question, After I wound the VFO output transformer I
noticed
> I
> > wound mine with primary and secondary interlaced (P & S laying
> > next to each other as each turn is put on the toriod)while it
looks
> > like in one of the pictures that the primary is on one section of
> the
> > teroid and the secondary on another section. Does it matter? Seems
> > like the coupling would be tighter if the primary and secondary
were
> > wound on the toriod at the same time in such way that each turn of
> the
> > P & S is laying next to the other.
>
> Shouldn't matter as practically all the magnetic flux flows through
> the toroid. Interlace 'em, twist 'em, keep 'em seperate, makes no
> measurable difference...imho of course
>
> >
> > 73,
> > Ken
>
> 72 es GL
> Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., kenm1@e... wrote:
>I'll prpbably be weak due to the antenna resrictions
>but I'm still gona try.
Think "stealth". Even an invisible long wire can be an excellent
performer.
72
Arth W6AGS
My antennas are end-fed half waves shot into the trees and taken down as
soon as I'm done operating. My first QRP 40 meter QSO was with a regular
dipole - took the coax off - shorted the center and fed it at one
end...threw the mess over the top of the garages in my condo complex and
actually got out with my SMK-1!
Where there's a will, there's a way! I'm gonna keep plugging away on my
2N2... hope to have it done by Christmas...when's the FYBO contest, anyway?
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspIs Q4 on the revised schematic the same as Q1 on the old one?
If so, I should have 7.9 volts on the emitter, 8.5 on the base, and 12.4 on
the collector. What I get is
E - 1.25; B - 1.86; and C - 11.37 Volts
VCC is 12.3 Volts.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspHey Lee,
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> John -
> According to my errata notes for the 2N2222 as presented on K8IQY's web
> page, for the TxRx Driver, one is supposed to add a 4.7ufd capacitor between
> the junction of R59,R60 and C66 to ground.
That's what I have at this point, a 4.7uF for C68. This is a .01uF on
the new schematic and is marked as C68. I'm using the 4.7uF at the
suggestion of Jim in a recent post. I built from the new set of
schematics.
>
> On a photo from the web site where you had been posting progress, it looks
> like you have the 4.7 ufd capacitor going from the base of Q21 to ground.
Never had that, the pictures can be a little hard to follow. I've also
now got a 4.7uF from the collector of Q21 to ground, referred to in the
same message.
73 de John, N1QO
>
> Was this an error that you later corrected, or am I missing something dumb?
> 72 de Lee, km4yy
>
> The next best thing to knowing something is knowing where to find it.
> -- Samuel Johnson
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim:
Here are some numbers taken with simple DVM:
Q17- RCVR all 0.0v (so far so good:)
Key on, E: 1.3v B: 1.96v C: 11.32
Q's 18,19,20 :RVCR all 0.0v except for C's, which are all Vcc (12.6v)
Q's 18, 19,20 key on: same!! :( Oops! That can't be right, can it?
More to follow......
Tom
>From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 11:25 PM 11/12/01 +0000, Delbert Long, AD6WE wrote:
>Is Q4 on the revised schematic the same as Q1 on the old one?
Q4 on the new schematic in the receive RF amplifier, and Q1
on the old schematic is the receive RF amplifier, but those
two amplifiers are not at all of the same design, and therefore,
the voltages for one are not the same as the other. In fact,
by design, the voltages on the most recent design are the way
they are so that the amplifier will work better than the old
design.
>If so, I should have 7.9 volts on the emitter, 8.5 on the base, and 12.4 on
>the collector. What I get is
You cannot use the voltage tables for the older design with the newer
circuits. If you do, you will be most confused. The voltage tables
are useable with those parts of the circuitry that haven't changed,
but make sure you can identify those parts of the circuitry that
haven't changed before applying the older voltage tables.
>E - 1.25; B - 1.86; and C - 11.37 Volts
These are good values. From these, I can see that the LED
that you used drops 1.86 volts. The emitter is lower than
the base by approximately 0.7 volts, and that is normal for
a good silicon NPN transistor. The reason that the collector
is 0.93 volts lower than your supply is due to the collector
current flowing through resistor R12, a 47 ohm unit. If we
take the 0.93 volts, and divide it by 47 ohms, we get an
answer of 19.8 millimps of static collector current. The
amplifier was designed to have a static collector current
of 20 milliampers. Close enough for me!!!
>VCC is 12.3 Volts.
A good value......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:44 AM 11/12/01 +0000, Dan, AD6JY wrote:
>I'm also part of the slow start, slow build group. I've managed to
>get my VFO working but it only seems to cover about 50 Hz instead of
>the 100 its supposed to. I had to take a turn off of the inductor
>bring the lower freqency into range.
That isn't all that uncommon, depending how L1 is wound. The
50 KHz spread is another matter. It doesn't sound right at
all. I've seen spans as low as 80-85 KHz, but nothing
near 50. I suspect a construction/wiring problem.
> I have a 5-20 pf trimmer at TC 3
>but the VFO range is still too small. The output is only about 0.4 V
>on my rf probe.
Awfully low. Should be much larger if the VFO output transformer
is properly tuned.
> At the top of the range the freqency starts going
>down again real fast and then it stops VFO'ing (?).
Also another indication of something not right with the
construstion/wiring, or your power supply isn't at 12 volts
or above. It also could be that you don't have the D5-D6
power supply working correctly. What are the voltages at
the junction of R1/D5 cathode and at D5 anode/D6 anode?
Look at the latest schematic for the VFO as this version is
much easier to follow in terms of part locations and wiring.
The older schematic of the VFO was hard to follow.
>
>
>I've rechecked my work and can't find the mistakes that are probably
>lurking there. I'm going to take another crack at finding where I
>went wrong but, I'd appreciate any hints on what might be wrong.(I
>did manage to make it through the first section OK so there may still
>be hope for me)
Good look at it again and let us know if you find anything amiss.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim and all.
Boy am I stupid... I was going thru the schematics and drawings for
about the million-th time, nothing in site, everything looked ok.
Frustrated I was....Well, took a break and came back.
Started going thru again, this time started in stage VII...
"OK, here we go-lets see, start with the toroids, ok all wires check,
now the components, top down to the bottom... Pot 4-OK; C53, OK;
C52-----------I DON'T HAVE IT INSTALLED!!!!! (to self) Could I be
that lucky?!??! COULD I BE THAT DUMB!!!!????Hmmm.. OK- C52, a lovely
120 pF NPO cap, Yup, here it is, IN MY PARTS BAG!! Ok solder 'er
in....dummy load on....Hey! I can hear the thing in my old DX-398..
Wow! Loud too!!
Well, you can guess the rest.......
Got her back on the desk, naked as a jaybird,(the rig, NOT me) and
plugged things in. WOW! that sidetone sounds like a chainsaw, need to
work on that... Hey, I see a movement on the old MFJ meter!! Better
put it on the dummy load...
So, she's cruising along at a solid 2 watts, she has more, but I want
to be safe.. Let's find an opening and call, just for kicks......
NO WAY!! Someone calls back, "N0HC", Cliff, in Colorado!!
We hve a nice chat, I'm trembling, forgetting my code, and he is
telling me the rig sounds great, no drift, clear tone, no chirps. HE
is asking me to tell him more about the rig!!! I'm pretty much a
happy ham!!!! I BUILT IT!!!!!!!
Now, gotta check out those notes on sidetone mods, and see about
getting this thing into a nice case.. Hmm, I wonder if I can get a
see-through top!!!
72, es thanks for reading and all the help, past, present and future
Tom
KC0GXX
|
855|854|2001-11-13 05:14:02|John Wagner|Re: It works!!! (long-like you guessed!)|A QSO!!!!!!!
Way to go Tom!!! What a rush 'eh?
Congrats!
73 John, N1QO
tdufres@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> Jim and all.
> Boy am I stupid... I was going thru the schematics and drawings for
> about the million-th time, nothing in site, everything looked ok.
>
> Frustrated I was....Well, took a break and came back.
> Started going thru again, this time started in stage VII...
>
> "OK, here we go-lets see, start with the toroids, ok all wires check,
> now the components, top down to the bottom... Pot 4-OK; C53, OK;
> C52-----------I DON'T HAVE IT INSTALLED!!!!! (to self) Could I be
> that lucky?!??! COULD I BE THAT DUMB!!!!????Hmmm.. OK- C52, a lovely
> 120 pF NPO cap, Yup, here it is, IN MY PARTS BAG!! Ok solder 'er
> in....dummy load on....Hey! I can hear the thing in my old DX-398..
> Wow! Loud too!!
>
> Well, you can guess the rest.......
>
> Got her back on the desk, naked as a jaybird,(the rig, NOT me) and
> plugged things in. WOW! that sidetone sounds like a chainsaw, need to
> work on that... Hey, I see a movement on the old MFJ meter!! Better
> put it on the dummy load...
>
> So, she's cruising along at a solid 2 watts, she has more, but I want
> to be safe.. Let's find an opening and call, just for kicks......
>
> NO WAY!! Someone calls back, "N0HC", Cliff, in Colorado!!
>
> We hve a nice chat, I'm trembling, forgetting my code, and he is
> telling me the rig sounds great, no drift, clear tone, no chirps. HE
> is asking me to tell him more about the rig!!! I'm pretty much a
> happy ham!!!! I BUILT IT!!!!!!!
>
> Now, gotta check out those notes on sidetone mods, and see about
> getting this thing into a nice case.. Hmm, I wonder if I can get a
> see-through top!!!
>
> 72, es thanks for reading and all the help, past, present and future
> Tom
> KC0GXX
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim and gang.
V3 of my rig is alive and beating! Hearing CW and VE3 SSB stations! Used the 7.040 xtal and a xtal osc. to peak the input amp. Found a missing resistor (embarassed look) in the VFO - R6 - and replaced Q2 and Q3. Seems that it is a bit deaf tho.. but at least it is working!!!!!!! Oh and no SW broadcast junk either!!!! Gonna play with the FE some now. See if I can get it up where I think it should be.
Q4 voltages are:
E - 1.076
B - 1.753
C - 13.08
Vcc is 13.86
Looks like C voltage is a bit high.... may need to play with that now..hi hi This is soooo much fun.. wooo hoooo
72
Dennis
|
857|854|2001-11-13 17:17:39|Delbert Long|Re: It works!!! (long-like you guessed!)|Wow again...that's great news, Tom!
It looks like the congratulations are going to just keep rolling on and
on...
I'm getting ready for about a 10 day trip for Thanksgiving, so I think my
project is on hold for awhile...this week most of my solder melting is going
to be getting field antennas/tuners ready...I hope to be QRV from a few
places along the way...anybody need Oregon or Washington State? I have 20
and 40 meter rigs to take with me.
Still hope to be finished with the 2n2 by Christmas.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspJim and gang,
I HEAR CW!!!! Forgot to put in R6 in the VFO
(Duhhhhhhhh) and replaced Q2 and Q3. All voltages in
the VFO are now good! Changed the RX T/R switch to
the 12mH and TC configuration. Rewound T1 and T2, and
WOOO HOOOO it hears. The RF gain control works -
backwards from what I am use to, but oh well. Seems
a bit "deaf" tho. Checked the voltages on Q4 and get
the following with 13.87 Vcc:
E - 1.076
B - 1.753
C - 13.08
Collector voltage seems a bit high, so will poke
around more in that section. But that CW sure sounds
sweet!!!!!!!!
I'm rockin' now!!!
72
Dennis
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
http://personals.yahoo.comAt 05:03 AM 11/13/01 +0000, intrepid builder Tom, KC0GXX wrote:
>Jim and all.
>Boy am I stupid... I was going thru the schematics and drawings for
>about the million-th time, nothing in site, everything looked ok.
It works that way. Not seeing the trees for the forest........
>Frustrated I was....Well, took a break and came back.
>Started going thru again, this time started in stage VII...
It often happens after taking a break, or better yet, sleeping
on the problem over night.
>"OK, here we go-lets see, start with the toroids, ok all wires check,
>now the components, top down to the bottom... Pot 4-OK; C53, OK;
>C52-----------I DON'T HAVE IT INSTALLED!!!!! (to self) Could I be
>that lucky?!??! COULD I BE THAT DUMB!!!!????Hmmm.. OK- C52, a lovely
>120 pF NPO cap, Yup, here it is, IN MY PARTS BAG!! Ok solder 'er
>in....dummy load on....Hey! I can hear the thing in my old DX-398..
>Wow! Loud too!!
Obviously, without C52 the cascode RF amp isn't gonna tune up
at all. Not tuned means no output power to driver. No power
to driver means no drive to finals, and no output. I think that's
what you reported yesterday.
>Well, you can guess the rest.......
Indeed.........
>Got her back on the desk, naked as a jaybird,(the rig, NOT me) and
>plugged things in. WOW! that sidetone sounds like a chainsaw, need to
>work on that... Hey, I see a movement on the old MFJ meter!! Better
>put it on the dummy load...
>
>So, she's cruising along at a solid 2 watts, she has more, but I want
>to be safe.. Let's find an opening and call, just for kicks......
>
>NO WAY!! Someone calls back, "N0HC", Cliff, in Colorado!!
>
>We hve a nice chat, I'm trembling, forgetting my code, and he is
>telling me the rig sounds great, no drift, clear tone, no chirps. HE
>is asking me to tell him more about the rig!!! I'm pretty much a
>happy ham!!!! I BUILT IT!!!!!!!
I'm excited listening to the story. Wished I could have been
there taking a few pictures for the rest of the gang.
>Now, gotta check out those notes on sidetone mods, and see about
>getting this thing into a nice case.. Hmm, I wonder if I can get a
>see-through top!!!
Lexan or plexiglass works. Easy to handle too with simple
tools.
>72, es thanks for reading and all the help, past, present and future
Glad you got it built, and delighted that another 2N2/40 is making
noise on 40 meters. I'll be looking for you......
72 and congrats on a successful build Tom. I knew you could
do it.
Jim, K8IQY
Dennis:
Congrats! Wait until you get the whole receiver going. Its a dandy! I REALLY
like the xtal filter. Never had that in any of my older rigs...
Great feeling, huh?
Tom
KC0GXX
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspJim and gang,
Well, I think I am almost there!!! Changed the RX T/R back to the 47pF and 10uH fixed tuned input, took the bead off the collector of Q4 and put in a 2.2v LED for D8. Now I get:
Vcc - 13.8V
E - 1.180V
B - 1.852V
C - 13.01V
Now I get very little (if any) increase in signal strength cliping a lead onto the junction of Q4 emitter and the 100uH inductor.
Gonna look for a schematic of a RMS probe tonite at work and build one up tomorrow and check the VFO output per Jim's suggestion.
Still not as "hot" as it should be though, but I am getting closer every day. Lots of fun and a GREAT learning experience! I have learned more about VFO's etc in the past couple of weeks than I have in my 25 years as a ham! And that makes every setback and failure worth it!!
72
Dennis
BTW - anyone else notice the SW BC station and the pulse noise on 4.915 in the evenings??? Makes it almost impossible to fiddle with the rig!
|
862|862|2001-11-14 12:00:38|Jake Carter, N4UY|Product detector stage works|Last night about 10:30 EST I finished wiring the toroid into the
product detector and wanted to test the receiver. I hooked the
detector output to a little LM386-based audio amp that I use with my
Neophyte receivers and clipped a 20' wire (strung out across my
basement ceiling) to the receiver antenna input. I tuned the bands
hoping the hear something, and it works FB. Heard a bunch of signals
but W1AW really stood out -- big sig into my basement in the
Washington, DC suburbs.
Nice receive -- very little noise -- today I start on the audio amp
section -- may try using the receiver with my Tuna Tin to get a
couple QSOs in.
73,
Jake -- N4UY
|
863|861|2001-11-14 17:20:36|Delbert Long|Re: Hearing a bit better!!|Did I miss something somewhere? Why take the bead off the collector of Q4?
Man, I hope I can take my board over to hook it onto a friend's general
coverage rx tonite!
Delbert Long, AD6WE
>From: wb0wao@yahoo.com
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>
>Jim and gang,
> Well, I think I am almost there!!! Changed the RX T/R back to the 47pF
>and 10uH fixed tuned input, took the bead off the collector of Q4 and put
>in a 2.2v LED for D8.
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 02:55 PM 11/14/01 +0000, Dennis, WB0WAO wrote:
>Jim and gang,
> Well, I think I am almost there!!! Changed the RX T/R back to the
> 47pF and 10uH fixed tuned input,
I don't understand why you would do that. The tuneable version
should give you a small advantage in sensitivity and selectivity.
> took the bead off the collector of Q4
No need to do that, but it will run OK without it.
> and put in a 2.2v LED for D8. Now I get:
>Vcc - 13.8V
>E - 1.180V
>B - 1.852V
>C - 13.01V
Looking at the base voltage, I can tell that the 2.2 volt LED is
rated for more current, probably 20 ma to get the 2.2 volt drop
across it. Since we are driving it with much less current, the
rated voltage drop isn't achieved. A little bit of theory for
those who are interested. Overall, those voltages look just
fine Dennis, and if the emitter link to the transformer is
phased correctly, you should be getting 12 dB of gain out of
the amplifier.
>Now I get very little (if any) increase in signal strength cliping a lead
>onto the junction of Q4 emitter and the 100uH inductor.
OK, but I'm not sure what that means in terms of overall performance.
>Gonna look for a schematic of a RMS probe tonite at work and build one up
>tomorrow and check the VFO output per Jim's suggestion.
Everybody should have an RF probe in their instrument set. Unless
of course you have something better, like a good oscilloscope that
you know how to use, or a good calibrated RMS voltmeter that works
up to 10 or 20 MHz.
>
>
>Still not as "hot" as it should be though, but I am getting closer every day.
What is the basis for this statement? It may well be hearing everything
that it is capable of hearing, given the homebrew DBM. That said,
a properly built rig will hear signals below 0.1 microvolt. At least
both of mine will.
> Lots of fun and a GREAT learning experience!
Great to hear. I'm really impressed with the folks building
rigs, and the tanacity they have exhibited.
> I have learned more about VFO's etc in the past couple of weeks than I
> have in my 25 years as a ham!
Gee, I thought you were one of the youngsters in the group. Guess
not!
> And that makes every setback and failure worth it!!
That's the attitude.......
Thanks for all of the feedback, and GL with the next several
stages.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I'm probably the youngster in the group - ala 34! Getting a late start, just
started up collecting the parts...
72
.mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY [mailto:
jokortge@prodigy.net]
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 2:35 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Hearing a bit better!!
At 02:55 PM 11/14/01 +0000, Dennis, WB0WAO wrote:
>Jim and gang,
> Well, I think I am almost there!!! Changed the RX T/R back to the
> 47pF and 10uH fixed tuned input,
I don't understand why you would do that. The tuneable version
should give you a small advantage in sensitivity and selectivity.
> took the bead off the collector of Q4
No need to do that, but it will run OK without it.
> and put in a 2.2v LED for D8. Now I get:
>Vcc - 13.8V
>E - 1.180V
>B - 1.852V
>C - 13.01V
Looking at the base voltage, I can tell that the 2.2 volt LED is
rated for more current, probably 20 ma to get the 2.2 volt drop
across it. Since we are driving it with much less current, the
rated voltage drop isn't achieved. A little bit of theory for
those who are interested. Overall, those voltages look just
fine Dennis, and if the emitter link to the transformer is
phased correctly, you should be getting 12 dB of gain out of
the amplifier.
>Now I get very little (if any) increase in signal strength cliping a lead
>onto the junction of Q4 emitter and the 100uH inductor.
OK, but I'm not sure what that means in terms of overall performance.
>Gonna look for a schematic of a RMS probe tonite at work and build one up
>tomorrow and check the VFO output per Jim's suggestion.
Everybody should have an RF probe in their instrument set. Unless
of course you have something better, like a good oscilloscope that
you know how to use, or a good calibrated RMS voltmeter that works
up to 10 or 20 MHz.
>
>
>Still not as "hot" as it should be though, but I am getting closer every
day.
What is the basis for this statement? It may well be hearing everything
that it is capable of hearing, given the homebrew DBM. That said,
a properly built rig will hear signals below 0.1 microvolt. At least
both of mine will.
> Lots of fun and a GREAT learning experience!
Great to hear. I'm really impressed with the folks building
rigs, and the tanacity they have exhibited.
> I have learned more about VFO's etc in the past couple of weeks than I
> have in my 25 years as a ham!
Gee, I thought you were one of the youngsters in the group. Guess
not!
> And that makes every setback and failure worth it!!
That's the attitude.......
Thanks for all of the feedback, and GL with the next several
stages.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/OK I tried all of the cap changes, as per Jim on earlier threads.
Still, sidetone just about blows my ears off. I replaced R40 with a
1M resistor, was a 2.2M resistor. No change. I have NOT tried the
Schottky (sp?)diode N5817, only because I don't have one and neither
did Radio Shack. Coould my mute circuit be defective?
I really enjoy this rig, and this is really the only major fix I need
to procure before I button it up and start really using it!
Thanks in advance...
Tom
|
867|861|2001-11-15 00:16:31|wb0wao@yahoo.com|Re: Hearing a bit better!! And Xformer ??|> >Changed the RX T/R back to the 47pF and 10uH fixed tuned input,
I wanted one thing less to "tune" till I got the front end all
situated, then I will pop it back in. Plan on doing that in the
morning :-)
> > took the bead off the collector of Q4
Hi Hi... I changed out Q4 and forgot to put it back on. The G/F
distracted me with waffles and sausage..mmmmmmm
> >Now I get very little (if any) increase in signal strength cliping
a lead onto the junction of Q4 emitter and the 100uH inductor.
> OK, but I'm not sure what that means in terms of overall
performance.
Before I changed out D8, when I went to take the emitter voltage, the
recieved signal strength went up. Now, when I take the measurement,
there is no change in the signal strength.
>
> >Gonna look for a schematic of a RMS probe tonite at work and build
one up tomorrow and check the VFO output per Jim's suggestion.
>
> Everybody should have an RF probe in their instrument set. Unless
> of course you have something better, like a good oscilloscope that
> you know how to use, or a good calibrated RMS voltmeter that works
> up to 10 or 20 MHz.
Yep, and one other thing I found that was a great help was a "crystal
checker" and a 7040 crystal. Gives a good stable signal to peak
everything up. No QSB :-)
> >
> >Still not as "hot" as it should be though, but I am getting closer
every day.
>
> What is the basis for this statement? It may well be hearing
>everything that it is capable of hearing, given the homebrew DBM.
>That said, a properly built rig will hear signals below 0.1
>microvolt. At least both of mine will.
It hears real good hooked up to my 70+ wire antenna, but can't even
get W1AW without it! I do have aluminum siding on the house, that may
be part of it tho...
> > I have learned more about VFO's etc in the past couple of weeks
> >than I have in my 25 years as a ham!
I got my ticket when I was 17! Hi Hi... seems like a long time ago!
One Question on the link winding tho... what is the preferred method?
Does it cross over on the outside of the toroid, i.e. wire comes in
from one side, loops up and thru the toroid, then back around the
bottom and exits? Or is it like an inverted "U"? I want to make sure
that it is properly phased. Also, mine is in very close proximity to
the lead from turn 15 primary, will that have any effect?
72
Dennis
Gang,
At the urging of several memebers, I've revised the sheet 1
and sheet 2 schematics to show typical voltages for all
of the transistors except the Rx Mute Switch. The reason
that I didn't include that transistor is that mine is now
different than shown on the schematic. I've been playing
with a new design, and haven't gotten it to work any better
than what's been posted already. However, the bias voltage
to the gate of the 2N7000 is different on my rig.
I've also changed the Rx/Tx Driver circuitry, trying for
a better design, but it doesn't work any better in real
parts than that shown on sheet 4. The computer model works
great though! :-) Sometimes computer models and real life
aren't the same, as the computer model doesn't know about
all of the parasitic coupling, let alone the parasitic
inductances and capacitances. I'll keep working on it
though.
I haven't quite figured out how to update the other two
sheets to make them more useful. Putting typical DC
voltages in doesn't do it as those readings will be
greatly distorted due to the RF on all transistors. Maybe
I'll get out my RF probe and do a set showing typical RF
voltages on the various transistors.
Film at 11:00 as Chuck would say......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
869|861|2001-11-15 13:19:34|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Hearing a bit better!! And Xformer ??|At 05:16 AM 11/15/01 +0000, Dennis, WB0WAO wrote:
>One Question on the link winding tho... what is the preferred method?
> Does it cross over on the outside of the toroid, i.e. wire comes in
>from one side, loops up and thru the toroid, then back around the
>bottom and exits? Or is it like an inverted "U"?
The latter. It only needs to pass through the core. The shortest
way you can make that happen is the best way. Look closely at
the pictures I posted of that amplifier to see how I did it.
> I want to make sure
>that it is properly phased.
That's the most important consideration. If it isn't phased
correctly, you will have built an oscillator, not an amplifier.
> Also, mine is in very close proximity to
>the lead from turn 15 primary, will that have any effect?
No......that's not a problem.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>72
>
>Dennis
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Greetings Everyone
Daughter's car problems, her moving, my closing
down a superfund site here in LaCrosse, and Fall
cleanup around the house, has caused me to be one of
the straglers, so, I post this to thank all of you for
all those notes you've supplied me with, and hopefully
my mistakes and questions will be different ones!!!
If any, ha ha. I have the board all spruced up, and
marked off, and the pads punched out and ready to glue
down. Most of the parts have been procured, and
tonight IF all goes well, will put the T R switch
together. Been almost sick at this delay, and am VERY
anxious!!!
Thanks for all the input, and am posting this
partially because of a few more straglers, as
incouragment, that you are not alone. : ) I too look
forward to those QSOs sometime this winter.
Really appreciate this great list, Thanks again.
73 72
Bill KE9XQ
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
http://personals.yahoo.comAt 04:32 AM 11/15/01 +0000, Tom wrote:
>OK I tried all of the cap changes, as per Jim on earlier threads.
>Still, sidetone just about blows my ears off. I replaced R40 with a
>1M resistor, was a 2.2M resistor. No change. I have NOT tried the
>Schottky (sp?)diode N5817, only because I don't have one and neither
>did Radio Shack. Coould my mute circuit be defective?
Possibly. Make sure that during receive you have 5-6 volts
on the gate of the 2N7000. During receive, you should be able
to short the gate to ground, and the receive audio should
drop to almost nothing. If it doesn't, then something is
not correct with that circuit. Actually, changing R40 from 1 meg
to 2.2 meg makes the audio louder.
Check out your mute circuit and let us know if you find
any problems per above.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
A couple of questions before I snort my way into the VFO:
1. The errata sheet on Jims website calls for a 4.7 ufd electrolytic
between the connections to R59,R60 and C66 (the Rx pad) in the Rx/Tx Driver.
The schematics don't show this capacitor. What gives?
2. Several of us bought 2K vice 20K ten turn pots. I seem to remember Jim
noting some modifications that would enable us to use these pots instead of
the 20K 10T pot. Can somebody tell me what resistor values were changed
from the values specified on the latest Sheet 1 schematic dtd. 10/31/2001?
TIA es 73 de Lee, KM4YY
"Liberty lies in the hearts of men and women; when it dies there,
no constitution, no law, no court can save it."
--Judge Learned Hand
|
873|870|2001-11-15 22:57:07|John Wagner|Re: Late Starter|Hey Bill,
Great to see that you're going to get rolling.
And lest any "stragglers" think they've missed the boat never to get a
ride, don't! I'm here for the long haul and will try, in some small way
I'm sure, pay back all the help and encouragement I've received in this
project and all the others before it.
Looking forward to your posts.
73 de John, N1QO
William Wood wrote:
>
> Greetings Everyone
> Daughter's car problems, her moving, my closing
> down a superfund site here in LaCrosse, and Fall
> cleanup around the house, has caused me to be one of
> the straglers, so, I post this to thank all of you for
> all those notes you've supplied me with, and hopefully
> my mistakes and questions will be different ones!!!
> If any, ha ha. I have the board all spruced up, and
> marked off, and the pads punched out and ready to glue
> down. Most of the parts have been procured, and
> tonight IF all goes well, will put the T R switch
> together. Been almost sick at this delay, and am VERY
> anxious!!!
> Thanks for all the input, and am posting this
> partially because of a few more straglers, as
> incouragment, that you are not alone. : ) I too look
> forward to those QSOs sometime this winter.
> Really appreciate this great list, Thanks again.
> 73 72
> Bill KE9XQ
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
> http://personals.yahoo.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGang,
I've found a better speaker for my rig and have decided to not install a
speaker internally in the case. What I'd like to do is wire up a speaker
jack to plug the speaker into. Only thing is, all the jacks I have
connect the barrel to the chasis ground and I don't believe that would
be a good thing in this radio. I haven't seen an unground jack before,
is there such an animal? If not, any suggestions?
Thanks!
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comMy life is finally starting to settle down just a bit. We've had two close
deaths in the my family in the last three weeks. My mom and my wife's
grandma. I hope that I can start my project
the first week of
December...gotta get one more funeral and deer season out of the way.
I know this is off topic, but folks, if your mom is still with you, call
her, visit her, write her, and tell her how much you love, appreciate, and
need her. My mom was perfectly healthy one day, and gone the next morning.
Luckily I was her the night before she died, we ate, we laughed, we hugged,
and we told each other "I love you" before I headed home. My poor brother
didn't get the chance.
Sorry about the bandwidth....I just needed to say that.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2001 10:59 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Late Starter
> Hey Bill,
>
> Great to see that you're going to get rolling.
>
> And lest any "stragglers" think they've missed the boat never to get a
> ride, don't! I'm here for the long haul and will try, in some small way
> I'm sure, pay back all the help and encouragement I've received in this
> project and all the others before it.
>
> Looking forward to your posts.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> William Wood wrote:
> >
> > Greetings Everyone
> > Daughter's car problems, her moving, my closing
> > down a superfund site here in LaCrosse, and Fall
> > cleanup around the house, has caused me to be one of
> > the straglers, so, I post this to thank all of you for
> > all those notes you've supplied me with, and hopefully
> > my mistakes and questions will be different ones!!!
> > If any, ha ha. I have the board all spruced up, and
> > marked off, and the pads punched out and ready to glue
> > down. Most of the parts have been procured, and
> > tonight IF all goes well, will put the T R switch
> > together. Been almost sick at this delay, and am VERY
> > anxious!!!
> > Thanks for all the input, and am posting this
> > partially because of a few more straglers, as
> > incouragment, that you are not alone. : ) I too look
> > forward to those QSOs sometime this winter.
> > Really appreciate this great list, Thanks again.
> > 73 72
> > Bill KE9XQ
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
> > http://personals.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
John -
Why not use a stereo/three wire normally open jack. I just bought one at
Radio Shack this evening for $1.49.
73 de Lee, KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2001 11:04 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] grounded speaker jack
> Gang,
>
> I've found a better speaker for my rig and have decided to not install a
> speaker internally in the case. What I'd like to do is wire up a speaker
> jack to plug the speaker into. Only thing is, all the jacks I have
> connect the barrel to the chasis ground and I don't believe that would
> be a good thing in this radio. I haven't seen an unground jack before,
> is there such an animal? If not, any suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hey guys, I am just getting rolling now too... we may be lost but we are
making good time!
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Murrey <
brian@iquest.net>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, November 15, 2001 10:08 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Late Starter
>My life is finally starting to settle down just a bit. We've had two close
>deaths in the my family in the last three weeks. My mom and my wife's
>grandma. I hope that I can start my project the first week of
>December...gotta get one more funeral and deer season out of the way.
>
>I know this is off topic, but folks, if your mom is still with you, call
>her, visit her, write her, and tell her how much you love, appreciate, and
>need her. My mom was perfectly healthy one day, and gone the next morning.
>Luckily I was her the night before she died, we ate, we laughed, we hugged,
>and we told each other "I love you" before I headed home. My poor brother
>didn't get the chance.
>
>Sorry about the bandwidth....I just needed to say that.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
>To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2001 10:59 PM
>Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Late Starter
>
>
>> Hey Bill,
>>
>> Great to see that you're going to get rolling.
>>
>> And lest any "stragglers" think they've missed the boat never to get a
>> ride, don't! I'm here for the long haul and will try, in some small way
>> I'm sure, pay back all the help and encouragement I've received in this
>> project and all the others before it.
>>
>> Looking forward to your posts.
>>
>> 73 de John, N1QO
>>
>> William Wood wrote:
>> >
>> > Greetings Everyone
>> > Daughter's car problems, her moving, my closing
>> > down a superfund site here in LaCrosse, and Fall
>> > cleanup around the house, has caused me to be one of
>> > the straglers, so, I post this to thank all of you for
>> > all those notes you've supplied me with, and hopefully
>> > my mistakes and questions will be different ones!!!
>> > If any, ha ha. I have the board all spruced up, and
>> > marked off, and the pads punched out and ready to glue
>> > down. Most of the parts have been procured, and
>> > tonight IF all goes well, will put the T R switch
>> > together. Been almost sick at this delay, and am VERY
>> > anxious!!!
>> > Thanks for all the input, and am posting this
>> > partially because of a few more straglers, as
>> > incouragment, that you are not alone. : ) I too look
>> > forward to those QSOs sometime this winter.
>> > Really appreciate this great list, Thanks again.
>> > 73 72
>> > Bill KE9XQ
>> >
>> > __________________________________________________
>> > Do You Yahoo!?
>> > Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
>> > http://personals.yahoo.com
>> >
>> >
>> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>> --
>> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
>> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Jim and group:
Checked voltages on gate of 2n7000, was 6.04V. Shorted gate to ground, no
RCVR at all. Just like the bok, right?
I did notice a few things during the Fox hunt tonite.
1) At 7.050mHz, I am putting out 2+watts, easy. At upper edge of the band,
my output power drops to 1W. I can "dial it up" to >2 watts by increasing
levels on Pot 4. Is this normal?
2) The sidetone is louder when I have the filter opened to higher (750hz)
level, and when I switch from 10dB to 20dB on my RF amp. Ok so far?
3)This thing rocks!!!! Did I say that already?!?!?!
4) Can I/should I put in a pot for Pot 4 that will allow me to change the
power w/out opening up the rig everytime?
5) Sounds like I may need that N5817, huh?
Thanks again for your help/suggestion
Tom
KC0GXX
BTW, did I hear someone ask about a certificate I can get?? :)
>At 04:32 AM 11/15/01 +0000, Tom wrote:
> >OK I tried all of the cap changes, as per Jim on earlier threads.
> >Still, sidetone just about blows my ears off. I replaced R40 with a
> >1M resistor, was a 2.2M resistor. No change. I have NOT tried the
> >Schottky (sp?)diode N5817, only because I don't have one and neither
> >did Radio Shack. Coould my mute circuit be defective?
>
>Possibly. Make sure that during receive you have 5-6 volts
>on the gate of the 2N7000. During receive, you should be able
>to short the gate to ground, and the receive audio should
>drop to almost nothing. If it doesn't, then something is
>not correct with that circuit. Actually, changing R40 from 1 meg
>to 2.2 meg makes the audio louder.
>
>Check out your mute circuit and let us know if you find
>any problems per above.
>
>72,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 11:04 PM 11/15/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>Gang,
>
>I've found a better speaker for my rig and have decided to not install a
>speaker internally in the case. What I'd like to do is wire up a speaker
>jack to plug the speaker into. Only thing is, all the jacks I have
>connect the barrel to the chasis ground and I don't believe that would
>be a good thing in this radio.
Actually, not true. Since the output transformer secondary is
ungrounded, you can ground one of the leads to chassis without
any problems. If fact, I used a simple 1/8 inch jack on both
of my rigs, ran a pair of wires from the 8 ohm winding to the
'hot' and 'cold' terminals of the jack, and it works great. If
you have grounded one of the secondary leads already, just undo
that, and it will work fine.
> I haven't seen an unground jack before,
>is there such an animal?
Yes, some of the stereo jacks can be insulated by filing an
appropriate size hole, and using an insultated washer under
the mounting nut. I've done that on rigs that use an LM386
etc. type IC for the output.
>If not, any suggestions?
See above......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
No need to apologise for the bandwidth...that stuff is important.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspGang,
I built the RIT in some extra space on the board and wired it in.
It definately required that I adjust the VFO to move it back into the
band.
I notice when I turn the RIT knob that my transmit frequency moves up or
down in the direction that I've "rit'ed."
The RIT circuit is pretty simple and I don't think I made a mistake
building it. Have others seen this before? Is there a fix?
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comMy audio stage oscillates -- any suggestions?
I disconnected the audio at the detector and pumped it through a
little Ten Tec audio amp -- the rig sounds great. I added a
little "active antenna" preamp built from a Sprat circuit and it
sounds even better. Just wish I could get the regular audio section
to work.
Jake -- N4UY
|
883|336|2001-11-16 16:42:30|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: RIT|At 12:51 PM 11/16/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>I built the RIT in some extra space on the board and wired it in.
>
>It definately required that I adjust the VFO to move it back into the
>band.
Yes, I think I warned everyone about that. It stands to reason
that the VFO will have to be readjusted, since we are adding some
capacitance to the tuned circuit.
>I notice when I turn the RIT knob that my transmit frequency moves up or
>down in the direction that I've "rit'ed."
Well it's not supposed to do that!!! Only supposed to move the
receive frequency. It disables the RIT during transmit; that's
what Q23 is there for. You did hook up the Tx line to R64 I
hope. If not, or you used the Rx line instead, the RIT won't work
properly on transmit.
You want to recalibrate the VFO with the RIT pot in the center of
its range, but then, you probably already figured that one out! :-)
>The RIT circuit is pretty simple and I don't think I made a mistake
>building it. Have others seen this before?
How much off the Tx frequency is it? Mine is only a few cycles
at full rotation of R70 either way
>Is there a fix?
I think there is something wrong with the way you built the
circuit, at least I hope it turns out that way.........
If not, I'm as stumped as you.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 08:18 PM 11/16/01 +0000, Jake -- N4UY wrote:
>My audio stage oscillates -- any suggestions?
I'm amazed actually. I've built at least 4 of those stages
in various configurations, and all of the them have been
very stable. Is the oscillation at an audio frequency?
Low or high in pitch? Motorboating?
>I disconnected the audio at the detector and pumped it through a
>little Ten Tec audio amp -- the rig sounds great.
Well that's encouraging......
> I added a
>little "active antenna" preamp built from a Sprat circuit and it
>sounds even better.
Not enough front-end gain??
> Just wish I could get the regular audio section
>to work.
Me too. I'd really like to hear more details, and see a picture
of two of your layout, if that is possible.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 05:41 PM 11/15/01 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>A couple of questions before I snort my way into the VFO:
>1. The errata sheet on Jims website calls for a 4.7 ufd electrolytic
>between the connections to R59,R60 and C66 (the Rx pad) in the Rx/Tx Driver.
>The schematics don't show this capacitor. What gives?
The schematics that were used in the article weren't that latest
version unfortunately. The was some confusion, and the wrong
set got used, that's why the errata sheet was created, to fix
that and other problems.
>2. Several of us bought 2K vice 20K ten turn pots. I seem to remember Jim
>noting some modifications that would enable us to use these pots instead of
>the 20K 10T pot. Can somebody tell me what resistor values were changed
>from the values specified on the latest Sheet 1 schematic dtd. 10/31/2001?
Yes, resistor R1, a 560 ohms changes to a 470 ohm. Resistor R10,
a 15 K will probably end up being close to 1.5 K, but you'll have
to find the best value to linearize the tuning. You can do that
by setting the tuning pot at 5 turns, and selecting a value of
R10 that puts the rig on 7.050 MHz. All of this assumes the
VFO tunes 100 KHz, and that the lower end is set for 7.000 MHz.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:59 AM 11/16/01 +0000, Tom, KC0GXX wrote:
>Jim and group:
>
>Checked voltages on gate of 2n7000, was 6.04V. Shorted gate to ground, no
>RCVR at all. Just like the bok, right?
Yes, that's what it should be doing.
>I did notice a few things during the Fox hunt tonite.
>
>1) At 7.050mHz, I am putting out 2+watts, easy. At upper edge of the band,
>my output power drops to 1W. I can "dial it up" to >2 watts by increasing
>levels on Pot 4. Is this normal?
It indicates that the Tx alignment isn't quite on. Set the rig to
about 7.08 and peak the Tx trimmers again, and see if that doesn't
help. Also, is the VFO signal dropping at the high end of the
band too, or can't you tell. That could also be responsible for
the drop off of power. You shouldn't have to readjust Pot 4.
>2) The sidetone is louder when I have the filter opened to higher (750hz)
>level, and when I switch from 10dB to 20dB on my RF amp. Ok so far?
Yup.....both of those will allow more signal into the receive chain.
>3)This thing rocks!!!! Did I say that already?!?!?!
I believe you did once, or maybe twice!!
>4) Can I/should I put in a pot for Pot 4 that will allow me to change the
>power w/out opening up the rig everytime?
Your rig. You can build it anyway you want. I set mine to 2 watts,
and never touch it.
>5) Sounds like I may need that N5817, huh?
That might help.
>Thanks again for your help/suggestion
Hope we did some good.
>Tom
>KC0GXX
>BTW, did I hear someone ask about a certificate I can get?? :)
Preston, WJ2V is the fine gentleman who makes those. His email
is:
pdouglas12@aol.com He has 2N2/40 #2. I have #1 and #3.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I got lucky and found a 2.2K Trimmer that I stuck in there for R10. Been
waiting to hear what I should do to adjust it (when I get that far!)
You guys all have a great Thanksgiving, I am outta town until The Sunday
After...look for me on 7.035 -7.040 at 9:00 PM PST on Wednesday
Night....maybe again on Thursday night...other times sporadically there and
possibly around 14.060......
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
>
>Yes, resistor R1, a 560 ohms changes to a 470 ohm. Resistor R10,
>a 15 K will probably end up being close to 1.5 K, but you'll have
>to find the best value to linearize the tuning. You can do that
>by setting the tuning pot at 5 turns, and selecting a value of
>R10 that puts the rig on 7.050 MHz. All of this assumes the
>VFO tunes 100 KHz, and that the lower end is set for 7.000 MHz.
>
>72,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspHi Jim,
Thanks for the reply;
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
>
> >I notice when I turn the RIT knob that my transmit frequency moves up or
> >down in the direction that I've "rit'ed."
>
> Well it's not supposed to do that!!! Only supposed to move the
> receive frequency. It disables the RIT during transmit; that's
> what Q23 is there for. You did hook up the Tx line to R64 I
> hope. If not, or you used the Rx line instead, the RIT won't work
> properly on transmit.
The TX freq doesn't go down as far as the recv freq. I measured it
tonite with my IC-746. When I turn the RIT clockwise (up in freq), I am
listening up 1.2Khz but xmiting up 120hz from where I would be if the
RIT was centered. Going down I'm listening down 1.23Khz but xmiting down
160hz from where I was.
> You want to recalibrate the VFO with the RIT pot in the center of
> its range, but then, you probably already figured that one out! :-)
Roger.
>
> I think there is something wrong with the way you built the
> circuit, at least I hope it turns out that way.........
I'll check it again, and again. ;) Thanks Jim,
73 de John, N1QO
>
> If not, I'm as stumped as you.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 09:16 PM 11/16/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>The TX freq doesn't go down as far as the recv freq. I measured it
>tonite with my IC-746. When I turn the RIT clockwise (up in freq), I am
>listening up 1.2Khz but xmiting up 120hz from where I would be if the
>RIT was centered. Going down I'm listening down 1.23Khz but xmiting down
>160hz from where I was.
Sounds like the transistor isn't saturating enough. You might
want to try another PN2222, or something with a lower Vce Sat
voltage. Also, a 2N7000 might work really well at that location,
with the drain and source connected to where the collector and
emitter are respectively, and of course, the gate to where the
base would be. The 2N7000 should saturate very well when it is
on.
> >
> > I think there is something wrong with the way you built the
> > circuit, at least I hope it turns out that way.........
>
>I'll check it again, and again. ;)
No, at this point it sounds like it is correctly built, and
the problem is with leaving the tiny residual voltage across
Q23. If we can get that down lower, the Tx offset will reduce.
With such a simple circuit, it may never go exactly to zero.
72 and keep us posted on what you find.
Jim, K8IQY
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 08:18 PM 11/16/01 +0000, Jake -- N4UY wrote:
> >My audio stage oscillates -- any suggestions?
>
> I'm amazed actually. I've built at least 4 of those stages
> in various configurations, and all of the them have been
> very stable. Is the oscillation at an audio frequency?
> Low or high in pitch? Motorboating?
Jim -- K8IQY:
Thanks for the message. The audio output from my 2N2-40 is a series
of fast clicks -- about 10 per second. When I disconnect C41 from
R26 and feed the audio to an outboard audio amp, but leave the Vcc
connected to the 2N2-40 audio amp, then the outboard audio exhibits a
warble. When I disconnect the Vcc from the 2N2-40 audio amp, then
the outboard audio is clean. The outboard audio amp is powered by a
separate battery.
I'll go back over my wiring again. I followed the diagram in the
QRPp article to build it (from POT3 to the speaker). Were there any
updates to that circuit?
BTW, I check out the receiver this morning. With the Ten Tec audio
amp kit and the Sprat preamp wired in, the receiver is great!! Very
sensitive, low noise, the filter and RF gain work very nicely -- I
may have to build another one to mess around with. I really like the
signal to noise ratio. I even hooked up a little digital frequency
readout (the UniCounter) so I know where I am on the band :-)
72,
Jake -- N4UYWell, I had Q12 wired in backwards.
It looked so nice and symetrical that way :-)
I turned it around and the audio amp works as it should.
In the course of trying to compensate for my previous error, I hooked
up an "active antenna" preamp to the antenna input of the rig. I
hooked it back up after I fixed my audio amp. I like the extra RF
gain. I tried paralleling a 20 ohm resistor with R11 but didn't like
the heat (Q4 got very hot).
The preamp circuit is at
http://www.g3ycc.karoo.net/week1.html I think I'll wire it into the final rig.
73,
Jake -- N4UY
At 03:30 PM 11/17/01 +0000, Jake -- N4UY wrote:
>Thanks for the message. The audio output from my 2N2-40 is a series
>of fast clicks -- about 10 per second.
Sounds like it is motorboating. I've not had that happen
with any of the output stages I've built. I'm wondering if
it could be related to a power supply/source with a high
output impedance.
> When I disconnect C41 from
>R26 and feed the audio to an outboard audio amp, but leave the Vcc
>connected to the 2N2-40 audio amp, then the outboard audio exhibits a
>warble. When I disconnect the Vcc from the 2N2-40 audio amp, then
>the outboard audio is clean. The outboard audio amp is powered by a
>separate battery.
That all sounds like the power supply your are using to supply
Vcc isn't doing its job, since the problem is there when you
disconnect the audio to the 2N2 amp stage, but are still
drawing current from the supply. If it isn't hacking the
current demand, that would also influence all of the other
circuits ahead of the audio amplifier, and hence may be the
source of the warble.
Can you power the 2N2 amp from the external battery like you are
powering the external audio amplifier? That might prove interesting.
>I'll go back over my wiring again. I followed the diagram in the
>QRPp article to build it (from POT3 to the speaker). Were there any
>updates to that circuit?
Well only then changes needed to implement the 2N7000 Audio Mute.
The coupling capacitors were made much smaller, but everything else
is the same.
>BTW, I check out the receiver this morning. With the Ten Tec audio
>amp kit and the Sprat preamp wired in, the receiver is great!! Very
>sensitive, low noise, the filter and RF gain work very nicely -- I
>may have to build another one to mess around with. I really like the
>signal to noise ratio.
That's part of the benefit of building all over copper. Very quiet,
and having all analog circuitry really helps too. No synthesiser
spurs etc. to deal with.
> I even hooked up a little digital frequency
>readout (the UniCounter) so I know where I am on the band :-)
Good idea. I've thought about putting one of Dave Benson's
little Freq. Mites in mine for the same purpose. I've got
one of those in my Epyphite III, and it works very well.
72 and GL with finding the problem with the audio. Keep us
informed regarding things that you try.
Jim, K8IQY
At 09:32 PM 11/17/01 +0000, Jake -- N4UY wrote:
>Well, I had Q12 wired in backwards.
OOOps!!
>It looked so nice and symetrical that way :-)
Yes, but it doesn't work very well as you found out.
>I turned it around and the audio amp works as it should.
Good to hear. You had me worried.
>In the course of trying to compensate for my previous error, I hooked
>up an "active antenna" preamp to the antenna input of the rig. I
>hooked it back up after I fixed my audio amp. I like the extra RF
>gain. I tried paralleling a 20 ohm resistor with R11 but didn't like
>the heat (Q4 got very hot).
You can't change the gain of the RF Amp by changing that
resistor, only the idling current. The gain is set by the
ratio of the turns on T6. To get much more, means a lot more
turns, as one term of the design equation is squared.
You would be better off leaving off the preamp on the front-end,
and adding an additional stage of audio gain before the phase
splitter, Q9 and Q10. In fact, you could put it before
the Rx Mute stage, and probably help with the thump that stage
has on some rigs.
>The preamp circuit is at http://www.g3ycc.karoo.net/week1.html
The second part of that 'lil amp is the classic Doug DeMaw/
Wes Hayward designed 50 ohms in, and 50 ohms out amplifier
with about 10-12 dB of gain.
>I think I'll wire it into the final rig.
It will make quite a difference in how much signal gets
to the rig, but on a normal antenna, will probably overload
the front-end of the rig on moderate to strong signals.
72 and thanks for the feedback on the audio amp transistor
being in backwards.
Jim, K8IQY
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> Sounds like the transistor isn't saturating enough. You might
> want to try another PN2222, or something with a lower Vce Sat
> voltage. Also, a 2N7000 might work really well at that location,
> with the drain and source connected to where the collector and
> emitter are respectively, and of course, the gate to where the
> base would be. The 2N7000 should saturate very well when it is
> on.
This is weird; tried another P2N2222, same results. Soldered in a 2N7000
and it was better, but here's the weird part, if I turn the RIT
clockwise, the recv freq goes up but the TX freq goes down a hair
(proportionate to the amount of RIT used)! It's much closer then before
though, with a RIT span of about 1.8KHz and turned to the max setting,
the TX freq goes down about 20Hz.
> 72 and keep us posted on what you find.
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Thanks!
BTW, I worked more DX with the 2N2/40+ yesterday in the LZ DX contest.
All of them gave me 5NN sig reports (despite asking for fills on my call
). UT1FA, VP5V, S58A, K8MP (OK, OH is not DX, but not bad for 2+
watts), 9A0C, and LZ9W. What a radio - maybe I can work enough DX with
it to get one of them new QRP DXCC certificates!
73 de John, N1QO
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
Web page: http://www.neknetwork.comAt 12:59 PM 11/18/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>This is weird; tried another P2N2222, same results. Soldered in a 2N7000
>and it was better, but here's the weird part, if I turn the RIT
>clockwise, the recv freq goes up but the TX freq goes down a hair
>(proportionate to the amount of RIT used)! It's much closer then before
>though, with a RIT span of about 1.8KHz and turned to the max setting,
>the TX freq goes down about 20Hz.
Interesting results John. I tried a 2N7000 in mine and it was
horrid. The Tx shift was almost as large as the Rx shift. I
did find that Motorola, (and others) make a MPSA08 transistor
that have very low Vce saturation voltage. Something like 0.08
volts at 50 ma of collector current. I'm going to order some
on my next Mouser order and see how one of those performs in
that circuit.
>BTW, I worked more DX with the 2N2/40+ yesterday in the LZ DX contest.
>All of them gave me 5NN sig reports (despite asking for fills on my call
>). UT1FA, VP5V, S58A, K8MP (OK, OH is not DX, but not bad for 2+
>watts), 9A0C, and LZ9W. What a radio - maybe I can work enough DX with
>it to get one of them new QRP DXCC certificates!
Good going. I told you that the 2N2/40 has some special MoJo.
I think it may be more powerful than the K2, since it is scratch
built! :-)
72 and happy DXing. Sounds like you're have a ball.
Jim, K8IQY
Way to go Jaker!
73 de Lee, KM4YY
Unjust laws have to be fought ideologically; they cannot be fought or
corrected by
means of mere disobedience and futile martyrdom.
--Ayn Rand
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jake Carter, N4UY" <n4uy@arrl.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 4:32 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re. Audio Stage Oscillation
> Well, I had Q12 wired in backwards.
>
> It looked so nice and symetrical that way :-)
>
> I turned it around and the audio amp works as it should.
>
> In the course of trying to compensate for my previous error, I hooked
> up an "active antenna" preamp to the antenna input of the rig. I
> hooked it back up after I fixed my audio amp. I like the extra RF
> gain. I tried paralleling a 20 ohm resistor with R11 but didn't like
> the heat (Q4 got very hot).
>
> The preamp circuit is at http://www.g3ycc.karoo.net/week1.html
>
> I think I'll wire it into the final rig.
>
> 73,
>
> Jake -- N4UY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
All,
I thought it would be good to bring you up to date on the straggler
builder. Did VFO testing this weekend (between pouring 70 bags of
ready mix to extend the patio).
It was sure good to have the new scope (tek 475) to determine that the
VFO is running. Before I got the scope I was poking around comparing
measured voltages and found a bad transister in the final. Having the
scope I could tell that the VFO was running so I went to find the
signal using the FT100 and found the signal in the 75 meter band (not
good). I noticed that the signal wasn't moving much with the 20 turn
pot. I first suspected the variactor diode but using the voltmeter I
discovered that the voltage diode didn't move when the pot was turned.
Hmmm, discovered that the pot is bad.
I'm wondering if there's any of the group buy pots still available. I
didn't jump in on that buy since I had this one but if there's one
left then I'll get with the person off line to setup the deal. Also I
read that there was a ten turn vernier dial avialable. Perhaps these
were from the same person.
Anyway getting the pot will move the project along so I'm going to
start the next stage setup while I'm getting the pot.
73,
Ken
|
898|898|2001-11-19 13:25:49|wny-tc@juno.com|20-Turn Pot Caution|Hi. Keith here in the Depths of the Great Bergen Swamp
I have not looked into the 20-turn pots that the group got, but let me
pass on this caution:
VERIFY THE TERMINALS WITH AN OHMMETER!!!
I bought a 20-turn pot for a microwave project about 10 years ago,
a M/A-Comm Gunnplexer for a WBFM rig on 10 GHz. I wired up
the pot per the labelling on the body of the pot, and had no change
in the varactor voltage when I turned it. It ended up that the cast-in
terminal numbers did not match the cast-in wiring diagram!
5 minutes with an ohmmeter would have prevented an hour to dis-
assemble and reassemble the case to get the rig working.
Now, WBFM on the microwaves is QRPpp! I have a "Best DX"
of 170 km with 10 mW. This woks out to 10,566 Mi/Watt!
Lots of fun, i will say
73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Trustee of the NQ2RP/B 10 M beacon
President, Brockport Amateur Radio Klub (BARK),
Technical Coordinator, ARRL WNY Section
Ph - 585.494.1239
mailto:
wb2vuo@arrl.net ________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.I've been looking for the nice one Jim Kortge has on his rigs. Where
can I
find them? The ones I found are like 7/8th of an inch in diameter...
Tom
|
900|899|2001-11-20 11:28:41|Arth Silvers, W6AGS|Re: turns indicator|They are, I believe, in the Mouser catalog but not cheap. Your best
bet are swap meets where you can sometimes find one attached to
something no longer of any use that the owner is anxious to part with.
Arth
--- In 2n2-40@y..., tdufres@h... wrote:
> I've been looking for the nice one Jim Kortge has on his rigs. Where
> can I
> find them? The ones I found are like 7/8th of an inch in diameter...
> Tom
Thanks Arth:
Ordered one from Mouser, Part number 594-11111 "Vishay/Spectrol
precision multidials" size 1 3/4", 15 turns, 1/100 scale divisions.
$19.00 for one, $15.76 for one if ya buy 50......
Tom
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Arth Silvers, W6AGS" wrote:
> They are, I believe, in the Mouser catalog but not cheap. Your best
> bet are swap meets where you can sometimes find one attached to
> something no longer of any use that the owner is anxious to part
with.
>
> Arth
If your looking for the one Jim used on his first 2n2-40 in the picture
on his web page..
Under the policy I STARTED here, I will give my collection of treasures
to people who will use them, so they dont get thrown away by people who
dont know.
Ive got four to the first four names and addressers i receive by
email....no wrenches tho...
At 07:53 PM 11/20/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Thanks Arth:
>Ordered one from Mouser, Part number 594-11111 "Vishay/Spectrol
>precision multidials" size 1 3/4", 15 turns, 1/100 scale divisions.
>$19.00 for one, $15.76 for one if ya buy 50......
>Tom
>
>
>--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Arth Silvers, W6AGS" wrote:
> > They are, I believe, in the Mouser catalog but not cheap. Your best
> > bet are swap meets where you can sometimes find one attached to
> > something no longer of any use that the owner is anxious to part
>with.
> >
> > Arth
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
Wes,
If available, I'd like one.
Regards es 72/73
Bob Parks K6AEC
- In 2n2-40@y..., Wes Clopton
wrote:
> If your looking for the one Jim used on his first 2n2-40 in the
picture
> on his web page..
>
> Under the policy I STARTED here, I will give my collection of
treasures
> to people who will use them, so they dont get thrown away by people
who
> dont know.
>
> Ive got four to the first four names and addressers i receive by
> email....no wrenches tho...
>
>
> At 07:53 PM 11/20/01 +0000, you wrote:
> >Thanks Arth:
> >Ordered one from Mouser, Part number 594-11111 "Vishay/Spectrol
> >precision multidials" size 1 3/4", 15 turns, 1/100 scale divisions.
> >$19.00 for one, $15.76 for one if ya buy 50......
> >Tom
> >
> >
> >--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Arth Silvers, W6AGS" wrote:
> > > They are, I believe, in the Mouser catalog but not cheap. Your
best
> > > bet are swap meets where you can sometimes find one attached to
> > > something no longer of any use that the owner is anxious to part
> >with.
> > >
> > > Arth
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> W3ERU Wes
> ARRL
> FISTS #2099
> QRPARCI 8304
> QRP-L 2179
> CW is my Mode
Jim and Gang,
Well took some time off for the SS (CLEAN SWEEP de ## A WB0WAO 77 MI) and had to pay back the kitchen pass it required!
Anyway, I have "cheated" a bit and replaced the HB DBM in the front end with a ADE-1 DBM mixer chip. WOW!!! does it hear! Picking up stations with a 9 inch test lead! Still getting the SW BC junk tho, but strange thing. The signal level is the same even when no antenna is connected or even the test lead. Could this be something that is getting into the R2000 and mixing somehow with the 4915 sig from the 2N2/4+? Or is it possibly something "wrong" with the VFO section? Anyway, I am going to press ahead with Stage IV and V. If it is a VFO problem, I may have a "cheat" for that too.... More on that later....
72 es back to snortin rosin and meltin solder...
Dennis WB0WAO
|
905|905|2001-11-21 09:30:49|Jake Carter, N4UY|I really like this 2N2-40 receiver|A couple days ago I finished up the receiver sections. I've had the
receiver on, hooked up to 8 AA batteries and a 20' wire strung across
the basement ceiling. I've been monitoring the band as I work on
other stuff (still perfecting my Tuna Tins :-) ). This rig picks up
lots of signals -- even underground!! Very nice to listen in on some
QRP QSOs on my homebrew gear while soldering away on a project -- the
time flys by.
I think building gear manhattan style is a great learning tool --
when I build a kit I feel like the low-cost labor part of the
manufacturing process -- when I build manhattan gear I can see how
the various sections work together and what the the components a
doing -- I really enjoy it.
I hope everyone has a Happy and Safe Thanksgiving.
73,
Jake -- N4UY
Vienna, VA
Washington, DC suburbs
|
906|905|2001-11-21 10:45:13|John Wagner|Re: I really like this 2N2-40 receiver|Hi Jake,
"Jake Carter, N4UY" wrote:
>
> A couple days ago I finished up the receiver sections. I've had the
> receiver on, hooked up to 8 AA batteries and a 20' wire strung across
> the basement ceiling. I've been monitoring the band as I work on
> other stuff (still perfecting my Tuna Tins :-) ). This rig picks up
> lots of signals -- even underground!! Very nice to listen in on some
> QRP QSOs on my homebrew gear while soldering away on a project -- the
> time flys by.
Yeah, it's a hot little recvr for sure. I really like the low noise
floor. I leave mine on all the time too. ;) I've got half the case done,
just need to work on the plexiglass cover.
> I think building gear manhattan style is a great learning tool --
> when I build a kit I feel like the low-cost labor part of the
> manufacturing process -- when I build manhattan gear I can see how
> the various sections work together and what the the components a
> doing -- I really enjoy it.
You hit the nail on the head there. I've built three rigs Manhattan
style now. The first was a PixieII (which I guess counts as a rig as I
have had QSO's with it, but it's very simple), the MH101 SW30+ and now
the 2n2/40+. I learned quite a bit from the SW-30+, but I think I've
learned tons more from building the 2n2/40+ - not having any IC's, is
IMO a good thing as makes it easy (easier anyway) to follow the food
chain and see what each part/section is doing. Having an o'scope really
helps too.
I've built many kits, including a K-1 - but Manhattan style is my
preffered style for sure. The thing is, with kits I feel like all the
hard work has been done and all I have to do is follow the directions. I
suppose the same can be said for building Manhattan style from a
schematic, but I feel like I have more input in the final result doing
it this way.
> I hope everyone has a Happy and Safe Thanksgiving.
Ditto,
73 de John, N1QO
>
> 73,
>
> Jake -- N4UY
> Vienna, VA
> Washington, DC suburbs
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHaven't had time to update my website, but I wanted to share some photos
with you guys of my almost finished (they're never really DONE though,
are they?) rig.
I created a folder on the Yahoo! site called n1qo-2 with the "fini"
pics. I still need to figure out a way to bolt the clear top to the
chasis. Will probably use small L brackets. Pics aren't too clear, I'm
going over to my Dad's tomorrow and he has a better camera so I'll take
the radio there and hopefully have some better pics.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner
wrote:
> Haven't had time to update my website, but I wanted to share some
photos
> with you guys of my almost finished (they're never really DONE
though,
> are they?) rig.
>
VERY NICE job John, hope mine turns out that nice!
72 and look for ya on the air!!!
Dennis - WB0WAOThanks Dennis,
I was over at my Dads for supper this afternoon and used his camera to
take some shots. There is a new one in the n1qo-2 area that came out
nice.
I will hopefully have some time over the weekend to finish up my
website, and button up the cover on the rig.... that and get a deer
'cause deer season is over Sunday!
73 de John, N1QO
wb0wao@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> > Haven't had time to update my website, but I wanted to share some
> photos
> > with you guys of my almost finished (they're never really DONE
> though,
> > are they?) rig.
> >
> VERY NICE job John, hope mine turns out that nice!
>
> 72 and look for ya on the air!!!
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 02:24 PM 11/21/01 +0000, Dennis, WB0WAO wrote:
>Jim and Gang,
Greetings........
> Well took some time off for the SS (CLEAN SWEEP de ## A WB0WAO 77 MI)
> and had to pay back the kitchen pass it required!
Sounds like you have a good contest!
> Anyway, I have "cheated" a bit and replaced the HB DBM in the front
> end with a ADE-1 DBM mixer chip. WOW!!! does it hear!
Hmmm. That tells me that you didn't have the homebrew DBM built
quite right, as it will hear almost as well as the ADE-1. But,
that's a good mixer too. It just doesn't have the charm of a
completely home brewed one.
>Picking up stations with a 9 inch test lead! Still getting the SW BC junk
>tho, but strange thing. The signal level is the same even when no antenna
>is connected or even the test lead.
Test lead.....as in the wire going from the output of the mixer to
the R2000??
> Could this be something that is getting into the R2000 and mixing
> somehow with the 4915 sig from the 2N2/4+?
Might be if you are hearing it without having the 2N2/40+ connected
to the R2000.
> Or is it possibly something "wrong" with the VFO section?
Another possibility, but it would have to be a harmonic that is
quite strong, otherwise, it wouldn't drive the mixer hard enough
to it to pass the other signal.
> Anyway, I am going to press ahead with Stage IV and V.
Good idea.......
> If it is a VFO problem, I may have a "cheat" for that too....
Don't you go putting a DDS VFO in that thing! That breaks all of
the 2N2/40+ rules, and will kill the rig's Mojo!! :-)
> More on that later....
>
>72 es back to snortin rosin and meltin solder...
Good.......
72 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim and group,
Gonna shoot for finishing up the receiver sections this weekend. I am still pumped especially after I saw the great job that John did on his rig. Anyway....
> Hmmm. That tells me that you didn't have the homebrew DBM built
> quite right, as it will hear almost as well as the ADE-1. But,
> that's a good mixer too. It just doesn't have the charm of a
> completely home brewed one.
Yep, that is true and as my building skills improve, I will replace it with a HB one. 'Sides, I need it for the 4017 transverter that is my next project :-)
> Test lead.....as in the wire going from the output of the mixer to
> the R2000??
No, the mixer lead was still hooked up, the antenna lead was the one I was talking about, should have been more specific. The "garbage" sigs were at the same signal strength even when nothing was hooked up to the antenna point on the FE.
> > If it is a VFO problem, I may have a "cheat" for that too....
>
> Don't you go putting a DDS VFO in that thing! That breaks all of
> the 2N2/40+ rules, and will kill the rig's Mojo!! :-)
NOOOOOOO some things are sacred. I will try it out today and let the group in on it..think you all may find it interesting!
72 es BUILD ON DUDES!!!
Dennis WB0WAO
Jim and gang,
Got Stage IV done and I think I have a problem with the VBW filter. Looking at the schematic Stage IV looks to have 3 sections.
Mixer Amp - Which is working GREAT!!!!!!! Really pumps the sigs up and guess what NO MORE SW broadcast garbage (must have had something to do with the R-2000 I guess).
VBW Filter - Attenuates the signal GREATLY! A sig that I have to turn down the RF Gain on when I run it just thru the Mixer Amp, I can barely tell it is in there with the RF Gain cranked all the way up!
IF Amp - Can't tell if it is working or not due to the problem in the VBW filter!
I tested this by taking the lead from the R-2000 (set on 4915) and attaching it to various points in the chain. Attached to "C" the sigs are pretty darn good, attached to the junction of C35 and Y1, they are STRONG! Attached to the junction of Y4 and C22 at the ESP level. Same at C26 (tie in to Section V). Will look at the schematic again, but I think I got it right. Any hints guys?
72 Dennis
|
914|914|2001-11-24 10:18:40|George Heron N2APB|A modular design|The progress everyone is making on this project is really amazing! John,
Dennis and many others are having such fun and learning a lot along the way.
And Jim's comments and guidance to all of us has been simply outstanding.
My own 2N2/40 has been coming along too. An important goal for my project
was to be physically modular, allowing me to easily replace, service or
upgrade the circuitry for that module in the future. Perhaps I'll later wish
to use some other or alternate active devices for the audio amp, VFO, etc;
or perhaps I'd like to compare & contrast alternate mixing schemes. You get
the idea. In this way my project can grow with my own experiences.
I have a unique form factor (I think), in that I'm using a series of 2"x3"
boards - one for each block in the transceiver. Each card is mounted
"stacked up on end", somewhat resembling a small deck of 7 cards standing up
on the long edge and separated from each adjacent card by 3/4".
Each of my boards has a series of pins along the longer edge, and each board
fits into a custom mother board running horizontal along the bottom. I have
a blank extender card which, when in place, allows any module (board) to be
set up higher than the rest so it can be debugged, measured, etc. There are
so few interconnectong wires that each interconnecting signal can be given a
specific position along the board edge. This allows a board to occupy any
slot along the ground plane - i.e., the boards can be in any order.
I've built a custom-sized "NJ enclosure" -- a rectangular clamshell case
made from blank pcb material. The smaller front panel (about 3"x4") is just
right for the 10-turn vernial dial that as been discussed recently on this
list.
I only have the VFO module complete (along with the other blank boards,
mother oard and enclosure), but I'mstarting to pick up some speed now.
I'll get some photos uploaded to the Files area shortly, which will give you
all a better idea of what I'm describing here. But I thought you'd be
interested in my particular approach and progress.
And thanks again to K8IQY for providing the expert guidance and motivation
for this neat homebrewing group!
73, George N2APB
n2apb@amsat.org PS: Someone recently mentioned that the K8IQY "4017 Transverter" would be
their next Manhattan-style construction project. I thought I'd mention that
the NJQRP club only has about 8 of these kits remaining in stock and we'll
extend the offering with another run if there is additional interest. This
2N2/40 project is the closest thing to this style of kit and builders, and
some here might be interested in the 4017 kit offering. You can see the
details at
http://www.njqrp.org/4017 And heck, if there is enough interest
in running a similar group build such as we have here with the 2N2/40
design, we can offer a break on the 4017 parts kits. But only if Jim Kortge
is willing to help us long the way again as he's done here ;-) Food for
thought.
Hi Guys
It's a few weeks since I posted a message regarding the size of substrate
that people are using.
Since then work commitments took over completely (7 days a week, 12 - 16
hours a day). Then, when going home last weekend, I had a 'head on' with a
guy who had lost control on a bend. The remains of my VW Golf was cut to
ribbons by the 3 fire crews when trying to extract me (other guy was OK).
Somehow I had the presence of mind to tell someone to get my 'blue bag' out
if the car. This bag has gone with me to the office every day since August
and contains dozens of notes, emails, layout drawings AND all of the
components for the 2n2-40 !
Well, the good news is
a) I'm still here
b) The project at work is still going for the 3rd January deadline (I
just 'thought' I was indispensible)
c) I won't be going back to work until much later so I have some time to
play
Never had a broke bone before and now I've got a body full, still, I hope to
be sniffing raisins, or whatever it is you chaps do when you're soldering,
real soon. Just have to remember not to look in the miiror finish of my
substrate, could be a bit scary.
Will post photos (of the rig !) asap
73 Steve G4GXL
RSGB, ARRL, GQRP, NJQRP, NORCAL, ARCI etc
|
916|913|2001-11-24 14:58:54|Kevin Gibson|Re: Stage IV Done, but ????|I have the same problem. With the rf gain turned up, the signal going
into Y1 sounds strong on the receiver. I measured 25 mV peak to peak
on the scope. On the other side of Y1, it's not measurable on my
scope. I replaced Y1 just to check on the crystal, but no difference.
I'm building the original design based on the 11/30/98 and 5/23/99
schematics and corrected QRPp plans, since I had the Dan's small
parts kit and the silk-screened boards.
--- In 2n2-40@y..., wb0wao@y... wrote:
> Jim and gang,
> Got Stage IV done and I think I have a problem with the VBW
filter. Looking at the schematic Stage IV looks to have 3 sections.
>
> Mixer Amp - Which is working GREAT!!!!!!! Really pumps the sigs up
and guess what NO MORE SW broadcast garbage (must have had something
to do with the R-2000 I guess).
>
> VBW Filter - Attenuates the signal GREATLY! A sig that I have to
turn down the RF Gain on when I run it just thru the Mixer Amp, I can
barely tell it is in there with the RF Gain cranked all the way up!
>
> IF Amp - Can't tell if it is working or not due to the problem in
the VBW filter!
>
> I tested this by taking the lead from the R-2000 (set on 4915) and
attaching it to various points in the chain. Attached to "C" the
sigs are pretty darn good, attached to the junction of C35 and Y1,
they are STRONG! Attached to the junction of Y4 and C22 at the ESP
level. Same at C26 (tie in to Section V). Will look at the
schematic again, but I think I got it right. Any hints guys?
>
> 72 Dennis
Hi George...
George Heron N2APB wrote:
>
> My own 2N2/40 has been coming along too. An important goal for my project
> was to be physically modular, allowing me to easily replace, service or
I had thought about something similar at one point and if I ever do
another 2n2/40 (which I may) it will probably be done just that way. I'm
really looking forward to your pictures!
73 de John, N1QO
>
> 73, George N2APB
> n2apb@amsat.org
>
> PS: Someone recently mentioned that the K8IQY "4017 Transverter" would be
> their next Manhattan-style construction project. I thought I'd mention that
> the NJQRP club only has about 8 of these kits remaining in stock and we'll
> extend the offering with another run if there is additional interest. This
> 2N2/40 project is the closest thing to this style of kit and builders, and
> some here might be interested in the 4017 kit offering. You can see the
> details at http://www.njqrp.org/4017 And heck, if there is enough interest
> in running a similar group build such as we have here with the 2N2/40
> design, we can offer a break on the 4017 parts kits. But only if Jim Kortge
> is willing to help us long the way again as he's done here ;-) Food for
> thought.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi Steve,
Sorry to hear about your road experience and broken bones. I've had a
few, they hurt and the older you get the longer they take to heal.
Take your time on the radio, snort ROSIN (raisin's will probably get
stuck!) when ready - we'll all be here when you're ready. Looking
forward to you sharing your radio with us!
73 de John, N1QO
Steve Fletcher wrote:
>
> Hi Guys
>
> It's a few weeks since I posted a message regarding the size of substrate
> that people are using.
>
> Since then work commitments took over completely (7 days a week, 12 - 16
> hours a day). Then, when going home last weekend, I had a 'head on' with a
> guy who had lost control on a bend. The remains of my VW Golf was cut to
> ribbons by the 3 fire crews when trying to extract me (other guy was OK).
>
> Somehow I had the presence of mind to tell someone to get my 'blue bag' out
> if the car. This bag has gone with me to the office every day since August
> and contains dozens of notes, emails, layout drawings AND all of the
> components for the 2n2-40 !
>
> Well, the good news is
> a) I'm still here
> b) The project at work is still going for the 3rd January deadline (I
> just 'thought' I was indispensible)
> c) I won't be going back to work until much later so I have some time to
> play
>
> Never had a broke bone before and now I've got a body full, still, I hope to
> be sniffing raisins, or whatever it is you chaps do when you're soldering,
> real soon. Just have to remember not to look in the miiror finish of my
> substrate, could be a bit scary.
>
> Will post photos (of the rig !) asap
>
> 73 Steve G4GXL
>
> RSGB, ARRL, GQRP, NJQRP, NORCAL, ARCI etc
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comDang Steve,
Hope your feeling OK (its gotta hurt),,,gotta admit, I
love your attitude, most would have been whining after
what you went thru.
Sniffing solder fumes is OK, sniffing them raisins
will cause all kinds of sinus problems [grin].
Take it easy and let the body mend, and then enjoy
some of them solder fumes!!!
72's...Mike, WB8ICN
--- Steve Fletcher <
g4gxl@btinternet.com> wrote:
> Hi Guys
>
> It's a few weeks since I posted a message regarding
> the size of substrate
> that people are using.
>
> Since then work commitments took over completely (7
> days a week, 12 - 16
> hours a day). Then, when going home last weekend, I
> had a 'head on' with a
> guy who had lost control on a bend. The remains of
> my VW Golf was cut to
> ribbons by the 3 fire crews when trying to extract
> me (other guy was OK).
>
> Somehow I had the presence of mind to tell someone
> to get my 'blue bag' out
> if the car. This bag has gone with me to the office
> every day since August
> and contains dozens of notes, emails, layout
> drawings AND all of the
> components for the 2n2-40 !
>
> Well, the good news is
> a) I'm still here
> b) The project at work is still going for the 3rd
> January deadline (I
> just 'thought' I was indispensible)
> c) I won't be going back to work until much later
> so I have some time to
> play
>
> Never had a broke bone before and now I've got a
> body full, still, I hope to
> be sniffing raisins, or whatever it is you chaps do
> when you're soldering,
> real soon. Just have to remember not to look in the
> miiror finish of my
> substrate, could be a bit scary.
>
> Will post photos (of the rig !) asap
>
> 73 Steve G4GXL
>
> RSGB, ARRL, GQRP, NJQRP, NORCAL, ARCI etc
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1Ok gang...prepare for stupid questions, many of which have been answered
here before. I have the slobbering iron slobbering and am about to start the
TX/RX driver, commonly referred to as STEP ONE.
I love the smell of solder in the morning!
=========================================================
KB9BVN NORCAL 2792 FISTS 5695 QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
GRID: EM69WN - Ten Tec Scout - Attic Dipole - 5w
Member of the American Radio Relay League - SOC #400
FISTS Century Club #764/#24 QRP - Flying PIG QRP #-57
=========================================================
|
921|920|2001-11-24 21:51:45|K8GZ@cs.com|Re: KB9BVN has begun|Bring on the stupid questions, Brian.
72,
Kaye, K8GZ
|
922|922|2001-11-24 22:36:43|LessB@aol.com|Slow Re-Start VFO Done|Gang
Been collecting the e-mails for weeks, finally got to the board I started 2+
years ago. Got the VFO done. Had a good signal but no variable frequency.
Took 2 days to finally find the trouble. First the Pot wiper was wrong.
Redid that. On my 10th double check I found both D5 and D6 backwards. BOY
THIS DESIGN IS RUGGED. The lowest I can get the frequency is 2.22 to 2.32,
at least I got the 100 KHz swing. (that's with TC4 adjusted for min freq.)
T5, P to P, was .7 to 1.7v. Based on the e-mails I have collected I plan on
winding a new L1 with a few more turns, I may have not put on the right
number. I have a few spare T50-7's from my NorCal kit. Any other
suggestions? Hope to finish the rig by the end of the year.
By the way, this is only the third thing I have built that I have gotten
something working right away. (if you count two days over thanksgiving
"right away")
PS the edited e-mails on the assembly information is 56 pages long and growing
Les, N0PPF
|
923|913|2001-11-25 09:54:00|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Stage IV Done, but ????|At 11:24 PM 11/23/01 +0000, Dennis, WB8WAO wrote:
>Jim and gang,
Greetings Dennis......
> Got Stage IV done and I think I have a problem with the VBW
> filter. Looking at the schematic Stage IV looks to have 3 sections.
>
>Mixer Amp - Which is working GREAT!!!!!!! Really pumps the sigs up and
>guess what NO MORE SW broadcast garbage (must have had something to do
>with the R-2000 I guess).
Well that is good news. I'm still not sure what was going on
with the BC stuff.
>VBW Filter - Attenuates the signal GREATLY! A sig that I have to turn
>down the RF Gain on when I run it just thru the Mixer Amp, I can barely
>tell it is in there with the RF Gain cranked all the way up!
Obviously something wrong. The filter only has a about 7 dB of loss
through it, so it isn't working at all correctly.
>IF Amp - Can't tell if it is working or not due to the problem in the VBW
>filter!
>
>I tested this by taking the lead from the R-2000 (set on 4915) and
>attaching it to various points in the chain. Attached to "C" the sigs are
>pretty darn good, attached to the junction of C35 and Y1, they are
>STRONG! Attached to the junction of Y4 and C22 at the ESP level. Same at
>C26 (tie in to Section V). Will look at the schematic again, but I think
>I got it right. Any hints guys?
Yup. My guess is that you have the two varicap diodes in backwards,
with the anode connected to the control voltage, and the cathode
to ground, and not the other way around, which is the preferred and
correct way. If they are in backwards, they are no longer looking
like capacitors, but forward biased diodes, which will be shorting
all of the signal coming through the filter to ground. That's probably
why you are losing all of the signal. With the flat side of the varicap
facing you, and the leads pointed down, the cathode is on the right,
and the anode is on the left. The left lead gets soldered to ground,
and the right lead gets connected to one of the 100K resistors that
supplies the control voltage.
72 and I hope I'm right!
Jim, K8IQY
At 07:58 PM 11/24/01 +0000, Kevin Gibson, N0KLV wrote:
>I have the same problem. With the rf gain turned up, the signal going
>into Y1 sounds strong on the receiver. I measured 25 mV peak to peak
>on the scope. On the other side of Y1, it's not measurable on my
>scope. I replaced Y1 just to check on the crystal, but no difference.
>
>I'm building the original design based on the 11/30/98 and 5/23/99
>schematics and corrected QRPp plans, since I had the Dan's small
>parts kit and the silk-screened boards.
Kevin,
My guess is that you have the two varicap diodes install backwards.
I just sent a detailed post to the list, so hopefully that will help
you too.
Please let me know if it doesn't fix your problem also.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim...
I checked and D9 and D10 are in correctly - looking at flat side left lead to ground and right lead to the Xtal/100K junction.
I have performed the following checks..
1. Took the Xtals out and checked them with an oscillator. All 3 were at 4.1958 MHz on the Rat Shack counter.
2. Checked voltages to D9 and D10. Both were at 2.01 to 3.95 V (using the VBW control POT2)
3. Checked voltages at D14 and D15. At junction of R39 and D14 I get 3.99V and at the junction of D14 and D15 I get 2.02V. Ahhh, are the voltage annotations on the 11/15 schematic reversed at that point??
Only other thing to do is to replace D9 and D10. I have plenty of spares for that (at 3 for a $1 from Hosfelt, you can really stock up!) that is the only thing that I can think of at this point. I have no real way of checking to see if D9 and D10 are working or not. Am I on the right track here?
72 and learning tons!!!
Dennis
|
926|920|2001-11-25 13:09:49|John Wagner|Re: KB9BVN has begun|All right, way to go Brian.
Looking forward to your questions followed up by my stumbling
noncommittal answers. ;)
73 de John, N1QO
Brian Murrey wrote:
>
> Ok gang...prepare for stupid questions, many of which have been answered
> here before. I have the slobbering iron slobbering and am about to start the
> TX/RX driver, commonly referred to as STEP ONE.
>
> I love the smell of solder in the morning!
>
> =========================================================
> KB9BVN NORCAL 2792 FISTS 5695 QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
> 39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
> GRID: EM69WN - Ten Tec Scout - Attic Dipole - 5w
> Member of the American Radio Relay League - SOC #400
> FISTS Century Club #764/#24 QRP - Flying PIG QRP #-57
> =========================================================
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comCam,
My inductors arrived yesterday. Two are installed
in the mixer amp already. Thank you very much
for your help with the 2n2-40 project. Everyone's
help makes a special transceiver
72,
Kaye, K8GZ Lancaster, OH
|
928|428|2001-11-25 16:04:42|Mike Hall|Re: 100 uH inductors|Cam,
I have been gone for several weeks and haven't had
time to get back to my 2N2/40...I take it the 100uh
inductors arrived. Did you have any left that I can
get?
72's...Mike, WB8ICN
---
K8GZ@cs.com wrote:
> Cam,
> My inductors arrived yesterday. Two are installed
> in the mixer amp already. Thank you very much
> for your help with the 2n2-40 project. Everyone's
> help makes a special transceiver
> 72,
> Kaye, K8GZ Lancaster, OH
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1Pardon my lack of device knowledge, but I was just wondering if the
Schottky 1N5819 barrier rectifiers would work in the DBM better than
the 1N914s I have in there now. Are they better matched off the
production line? Are they hot carrier?
72
Arth W6AGS
|
930|428|2001-11-25 17:39:07|John Wagner|Re: 100 uH inductors|I have two leftovers if that would help.
73 de John, N1QO
Mike Hall wrote:
>
> Cam,
>
> I have been gone for several weeks and haven't had
> time to get back to my 2N2/40...I take it the 100uh
> inductors arrived. Did you have any left that I can
> get?
>
> 72's...Mike, WB8ICN
>
> --- K8GZ@cs.com wrote:
> > Cam,
> > My inductors arrived yesterday. Two are installed
> > in the mixer amp already. Thank you very much
> > for your help with the 2n2-40 project. Everyone's
> > help makes a special transceiver
> > 72,
> > Kaye, K8GZ Lancaster, OH
> >
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
> http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim -
The diodes appear to be correct. The voltage at the cathode side of D8 varies from 0 to 12v as Pot 1 is turned.
________________________________
Kevin Gibson
NØKLV
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2001 08:55 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Stage IV Done, but ????
At 07:58 PM 11/24/01 +0000, Kevin Gibson, N0KLV wrote:
>I have the same problem. With the rf gain turned up, the signal going
>into Y1 sounds strong on the receiver. I measured 25 mV peak to peak
>on the scope. On the other side of Y1, it's not measurable on my
>scope. I replaced Y1 just to check on the crystal, but no difference.
>
>I'm building the original design based on the 11/30/98 and 5/23/99
>schematics and corrected QRPp plans, since I had the Dan's small
>parts kit and the silk-screened boards.
Kevin,
My guess is that you have the two varicap diodes install backwards.
I just sent a detailed post to the list, so hopefully that will help
you too.
Please let me know if it doesn't fix your problem also.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I used Schottkys in my 2N2/40. They work fine. I think they're
1N5817s--lower PRV rating than the 1N5819 but pretty much the same ...
I thought they might make the mixer more efficient because of the lower
forward voltage.
The problem with substitutions is that when you have trouble you start to
think, "I wonder if it's because I used those darn XYZs instead of what was
on the schematic?"
Don't know how well matched they are off the line. I think I checked
forward drop with a meter before installing and chose those that were best
matched. But they were all pretty close.
72--Nick, WA5BDU
-----Original Message-----
From: Arth Silvers, W6AGS [SMTP:
w6ags@arrl.net]
Pardon my lack of device knowledge, but I was just wondering if the
Schottky 1N5819 barrier rectifiers would work in the DBM better than
the 1N914s I have in there now. Are they better matched off the
production line? Are they hot carrier?
72
Arth W6AGS
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/The guests left yesterday and I was able to get the VFO finished by early
evening. Then came several hours finding dumb moves that prevented the
oscillator from running correctly. As far as I am concerned the Island pad
cutter approach is unsatisfactory for a ham fisted, weak-eyed old fart like
KM4YY. The DVM on the resistance scale was my best trouble shooting tool.
I found three shorts to ground during the Redskins game after disconnecting
L1 temporarily, but finally got it going during the 3rd quarter.
The tuning range was too low, so I again unsoldered L1 and removed a turn.
(You'd think a EE from the University of New Mexico could count, but
apparently not to 44!) This is the third project in a row where I've
screwed up the turn count while winding toroids. (An NJQRP Warbler and a
SW-20+). The tuning range is now 2.085 to 2.185 mhz. The output measured
form 2 V p-p at 2.085, peaked at 2.6 V, and is 1.5 V at 2.185. Is this OK?
Also, I found that the frequency decreased as I turned the 2K 10 turn pot
clockwise and increased when I turn in CCW. Is this normal also?
Back home tomorrow morning, and awaiting comments before proceeding to Stage
3.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls
and looks like work.
--Thomas Edison
|
934|934|2001-11-25 19:50:39|wb0wao@yahoo.com|Stage IV - WOOOO HOOOO it works!!!!|Jim and group...
WOW... Does this thing ever hear!!! Have to kick in the Attenuator on the R-2000 to keep from overloading it! Found the trouble, hooked up T8 wrong on the IF amp and replaced D9 and D10 - one of 'em might have been bad or something!
THIS IS SOOOOOO KEWL!!!! On to stage V!!
72
Dennis
|
935|913|2001-11-25 20:40:16|Kevin Gibson|Re: Stage IV Done, but ????|After looking at this again, I think it's working. The filter seems to change bandwidth as I turn the pot and the tone is nice and strong on the output from c26. I have one question. When I look at the waveform at c26, it looks complex and "spiky". Is this correct? I guess I was expecting a nice sinusoidal waveform.
_______________________________
Kevin Gibson
NØKLV
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Gibson
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2001 04:41 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Stage IV Done, but ????
Jim -
The diodes appear to be correct. The voltage at the cathode side of D8 varies from 0 to 12v as Pot 1 is turned.
________________________________
Kevin Gibson
NØKLV
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2001 08:55 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Stage IV Done, but ????
At 07:58 PM 11/24/01 +0000, Kevin Gibson, N0KLV wrote:
>I have the same problem. With the rf gain turned up, the signal going
>into Y1 sounds strong on the receiver. I measured 25 mV peak to peak
>on the scope. On the other side of Y1, it's not measurable on my
>scope. I replaced Y1 just to check on the crystal, but no difference.
>
>I'm building the original design based on the 11/30/98 and 5/23/99
>schematics and corrected QRPp plans, since I had the Dan's small
>parts kit and the silk-screened boards.
Kevin,
My guess is that you have the two varicap diodes install backwards.
I just sent a detailed post to the list, so hopefully that will help
you too.
Please let me know if it doesn't fix your problem also.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Les -
I was approximately the same distance below frequency and corrected it with
removing one turn. You might want to experiment in situ with the existing
L1 before going to the trouble of rewinding it. The probability of me
screwing up the second time is almost as great as the probability of
screwing up the turn count the first time out!
73 de Lee
km4yy
The problem with keeping up with the Joneses is that it creates a world full
of
Joneses.
--Julian Barton
----- Original Message -----
From: <LessB@aol.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 10:36 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Slow Re-Start VFO Done
> Gang
> Been collecting the e-mails for weeks, finally got to the board I started
2+
> years ago. Got the VFO done. Had a good signal but no variable
frequency.
> Took 2 days to finally find the trouble. First the Pot wiper was wrong.
> Redid that. On my 10th double check I found both D5 and D6 backwards.
BOY
> THIS DESIGN IS RUGGED. The lowest I can get the frequency is 2.22 to
2.32,
> at least I got the 100 KHz swing. (that's with TC4 adjusted for min
freq.)
> T5, P to P, was .7 to 1.7v. Based on the e-mails I have collected I plan
on
> winding a new L1 with a few more turns, I may have not put on the right
> number. I have a few spare T50-7's from my NorCal kit. Any other
> suggestions? Hope to finish the rig by the end of the year.
>
> By the way, this is only the third thing I have built that I have gotten
> something working right away. (if you count two days over thanksgiving
> "right away")
>
> PS the edited e-mails on the assembly information is 56 pages long and
growing
>
> Les, N0PPF
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I think that is where the "mojo" Jim refers to comes from...
Lee
If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better
than
the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your
counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your
chains
set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.
--Samuel Adams, speech at the Philadelphia State House, August 1, 1776.
----- Original Message -----
From: <K8GZ@cs.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2001 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 100 uH inductors
> Cam,
> My inductors arrived yesterday. Two are installed
> in the mixer amp already. Thank you very much
> for your help with the 2n2-40 project. Everyone's
> help makes a special transceiver
> 72,
> Kaye, K8GZ Lancaster, OH
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hi everyone,
Well I finally stopped looking and started building. Ok, it was a
quick, short flurry of activity. But, the solder is finally melting
here in Colorado, 9,000 feet high in the Rockies!
I see a Electrolytic Cap in the photos of this section that are
posted here to the group, but I do not see it on the schematic!?
What am I missing? Where is it listed and what is the value? I
guess I am looking at something wrong.
Well, the first step is taken. I'm looking forward to building this
rig. My first from scratch. Hope to complete it by New Years Day.
Then WAS with it in 2002. Maybe DXCC QRP!
I have been very impressed with the support given by all here,
especially John and Jim. Jim, Thank You for all your time and
effort. You are helping so many of us learn more about this great
hobby. So many hours of your time, we do appreciate you! I hope to
work you with MY 2N2-40 in January.
Thanks for everyones help! The first of many question, I'm sure.
Tom Little
N0DSP
|
939|939|2001-11-25 22:15:19|Brian Murrey|KB9BVN Update - Stage One|Oh BOY!!! Oh BOY!!! Oh BOY!!
Tonight I FINALLY got to get started on my rig. I just finished the RX/TX
Driver per the 10/31/01 schematic and some help from the drawings in the
QRPp Article. Guess what?
It passes the test!! Key up, we have 12vdc or so at the RX port, and Key
Down we have 12 vdc or so at the TX port. Yipeee!! (Oh, 0vdc on RX when in
TX mode, and vice versa)
Yippee Skippee!! OK..time for bed...will study the stuff and try to do the
VFO tomorrow.
73
=========================================================
KB9BVN NORCAL 2792 FISTS 5695 QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
GRID: EM69WN - Ten Tec Scout - Attic Dipole - 5w
Member of the American Radio Relay League - SOC #400
FISTS Century Club #764/#24 QRP - Flying PIG QRP #-57
=========================================================
|
940|934|2001-11-25 22:18:06|John Wagner|Re: Stage IV - WOOOO HOOOO it works!!!!|wb0wao@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Jim and group...
> WOW... Does this thing ever hear!!! Have to kick in the Attenuator on the R-2000 to keep from overloading it! Found the trouble, hooked up T8 wrong on the IF amp and replaced D9 and D10 - one of 'em might have been bad or something!
If I had a nickel for each time I hooked up something wrong, checked it
three times and found it the fourth...
Glad to "hear" ;)
How's everyone else doing out there? Where are the pictures gang???!!!
73 de John, N1QO
>
> THIS IS SOOOOOO KEWL!!!! On to stage V!!
>
> 72
>
> Dennis
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com |
941|934|2001-11-26 00:02:46|james-rhonda@juno.com|Re: Stage IV - WOOOO HOOOO it works!!!!|> How's everyone else doing out there? Where are the pictures
> gang???!!!
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
Well John, I just finished stage six tonight. Hooked up a speaker,
closed my eyes ( just in case of a bright flash ), and turned on the
power. Proud to say that nothing blew up, the LED's light up and I can
hear something from the speaker, but no CW signals. At this time I still
do not have a receiver to test stage 3 and 4. I will spend a few
evenings this week looking for visual mistakes like miswired toroids. I
am taking pictures with a 35 MM camera. I sure hope the pictures come
out OK. If I have problems I will be hollering for help soon.
Jim, I just have to ask the purpose for the 8-10 twists per inch on
the bifilar and trifilar windings? This may of been answered before but
did not register in my memory.
James KC5HAC
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Hey Gang,
I AM PUMPED!!! Got half of Stage V done (RX LO) and have to wait 'till my Mouser order gets in with the #28 magnet wire. The RX LO is putting out a nice sig, so all is well so far!
Took some pics and will upload them Tuesday nite when I get to work. Now you will see why it is called "Ugly Construction" :-)
Should have the RX done totally by the end of the week, then it is on to the TX! Gettin close and can smell the RF already!!
Can't wait to get on the air and work ya all!
72 es melt that solder!
Dennis
|
943|939|2001-11-26 07:02:55|wb0wao@yahoo.com|Re: KB9BVN Update - Stage One|Brian -
KEWL!!! Great to hear that your starting off on the right foot! This rig is a blast to build, and even the setbacks and problems I have had are really worth it. I have learned TONS about how a rig REALLY works. More than I could have ever out of a book! And if you run into a problem, Jim and the gang is here to help ya out. I know they have helped me countless times!
72 es "oo"
Dennis WB0WAO
|
944|939|2001-11-26 08:01:27|John Wagner|Re: KB9BVN Update - Stage One|Way to go Brian!
Looking forward to your VFO working. It sure is a neat project.
73 de John, N1QO
Brian Murrey wrote:
>
> Oh BOY!!! Oh BOY!!! Oh BOY!!
>
> Tonight I FINALLY got to get started on my rig. I just finished the RX/TX
> Driver per the 10/31/01 schematic and some help from the drawings in the
> QRPp Article. Guess what?
>
> It passes the test!! Key up, we have 12vdc or so at the RX port, and Key
> Down we have 12 vdc or so at the TX port. Yipeee!! (Oh, 0vdc on RX when in
> TX mode, and vice versa)
>
> Yippee Skippee!! OK..time for bed...will study the stuff and try to do the
> VFO tomorrow.
>
> 73
>
> =========================================================
> KB9BVN NORCAL 2792 FISTS 5695 QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
> 39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
> GRID: EM69WN - Ten Tec Scout - Attic Dipole - 5w
> Member of the American Radio Relay League - SOC #400
> FISTS Century Club #764/#24 QRP - Flying PIG QRP #-57
> =========================================================
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comTom,
I like the way you think (WAS, QRP DXCC) - I'm sure it can be done with
this radio.
The electrolytic you're refering to is probably C68. I know I've been
fiddling with the value of it while trying to tame the RX Mute. My RX
Mute is pretty good, but still sounds a hair thumpy in the speaker.
Still thinking about it here.
73 de John, N1QO
Tom Little wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> Well I finally stopped looking and started building. Ok, it was a
> quick, short flurry of activity. But, the solder is finally melting
> here in Colorado, 9,000 feet high in the Rockies!
>
> I see a Electrolytic Cap in the photos of this section that are
> posted here to the group, but I do not see it on the schematic!?
> What am I missing? Where is it listed and what is the value? I
> guess I am looking at something wrong.
>
> Well, the first step is taken. I'm looking forward to building this
> rig. My first from scratch. Hope to complete it by New Years Day.
> Then WAS with it in 2002. Maybe DXCC QRP!
>
> I have been very impressed with the support given by all here,
> especially John and Jim. Jim, Thank You for all your time and
> effort. You are helping so many of us learn more about this great
> hobby. So many hours of your time, we do appreciate you! I hope to
> work you with MY 2N2-40 in January.
>
> Thanks for everyones help! The first of many question, I'm sure.
>
> Tom Little
> N0DSP
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI think it depends what you're feeding it for a noise source, doesn't
it? I might be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that unless your feeding it a
nice sinusoidal waveform, you're going to get quite a bit more signal on
the output (as wide as your filter?).
This is just a guess, by the way.
73 de John, N1QO
Kevin Gibson wrote:
>
> After looking at this again, I think it's working. The filter seems to change bandwidth as I turn the pot and the tone is nice and strong on the output from c26. I have one question. When I look at the waveform at c26, it looks complex and "spiky". Is this correct? I guess I was expecting a nice sinusoidal waveform.
>
> _______________________________
> Kevin Gibson
> NØKLV
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kevin Gibson
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2001 04:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Stage IV Done, but ????
>
> Jim -
>
> The diodes appear to be correct. The voltage at the cathode side of D8 varies from 0 to 12v as Pot 1 is turned.
>
> ________________________________
> Kevin Gibson
> NØKLV
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2001 08:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Stage IV Done, but ????
>
> At 07:58 PM 11/24/01 +0000, Kevin Gibson, N0KLV wrote:
> >I have the same problem. With the rf gain turned up, the signal going
> >into Y1 sounds strong on the receiver. I measured 25 mV peak to peak
> >on the scope. On the other side of Y1, it's not measurable on my
> >scope. I replaced Y1 just to check on the crystal, but no difference.
> >
> >I'm building the original design based on the 11/30/98 and 5/23/99
> >schematics and corrected QRPp plans, since I had the Dan's small
> >parts kit and the silk-screened boards.
>
> Kevin,
>
> My guess is that you have the two varicap diodes install backwards.
> I just sent a detailed post to the list, so hopefully that will help
> you too.
>
> Please let me know if it doesn't fix your problem also.
>
> 72 and GL,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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>
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--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThanks, Nick, for sharing your experience with the Schottkys in the
DBM. Its good to know that they do work and it makes sense that they
could be more efficient with their lower forward resistance.
The sidetone distortion/transition problems are pretty much solved in
ol' #16 but the cost is 10dB less post IF gain. Using an old speaker
and an untuned piece of wire, I need to turn the audio full bore to
hear much of anything. Less loss in the DBM might help and I have a
few extra 1N5819s that I found at a swapmeet. Increasing the post
mixer amp gain by 3 dB (using the latest mod) doesn't seem to help
perceivably. I haven't rebuilt the RF amp as I am reluctant to give up
that extra 8 dB up front (in the 20 dB position), but all other
circuits (DBM, mixer amp, VBWF, IF amp, product detector, Rx mute)
have been redone using Jim's latest mods.
What have your experiences been with sidetone
distortion/transition/gain.
72 es tnx agn,
Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Nick Kennedy wrote:
> I used Schottkys in my 2N2/40. They work fine. I think they're
> 1N5817s--lower PRV rating than the 1N5819 but pretty much the same
...
>
> I thought they might make the mixer more efficient because of the
lower
> forward voltage.
>
> The problem with substitutions is that when you have trouble you
start to
> think, "I wonder if it's because I used those darn XYZs instead of
what was
> on the schematic?"
>
> Don't know how well matched they are off the line. I think I
checked
> forward drop with a meter before installing and chose those that
were best
> matched. But they were all pretty close.
>
> 72--Nick, WA5BDU
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Arth Silvers, W6AGS [SMTP:w6ags@a...]
>
> Pardon my lack of device knowledge, but I was just wondering if the
> Schottky 1N5819 barrier rectifiers would work in the DBM better than
> the 1N914s I have in there now. Are they better matched off the
> production line? Are they hot carrier?
>
> 72
> Arth W6AGS
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Dov -
I checked each pad with my DVM before wiring to ensure that the crud was out of the moat. The first source of the problem comes from too many connections to the Islander pad. Second source of problems was physically stretching a trimmer capacitor between two pads is difficult without getting a short somewhere in between the two pads.
I'm convinced I also have a lot of cold soldered joints as a result of trying to avoid overflowing the pad and filling the moat.
I think I'm going to go to the Manhattan style to finish the radio, but I'm not sure yet.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: Basil Rabinowitz
To: lmairs@cox.rr.com
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] VFO works - I think...
Hi Lee, glad to hear that you were able to find some time to get a little construction going over the weekend.
I have also been using the islander and it has worked very well for me. I take care to clean the motes after I cut them using a dental pick. Its quick and easy and a good precautionary measure.
I am curious to know whether the problem is due to the moats having debris in them or if it is due to solder spilling over to the ground plane. I have had only one problem with the latter and it was due to overloading the island with too many leads. Since I am looking for ways to improve this I would appreciate it if you could let me know. I learn a lot more from someone who has a difficulty than from 10 people who love it. It's like homebrew - you learn far more when the circuit doesn't work and you have top trouble shoot it (though you wish it had worked first time).
Good luck with the rest of the build,
73 Dov Rabinowitz AD0V
>>> lmairs@cox.rr.com 11/25/01 06:15PM >>>
The guests left yesterday and I was able to get the VFO finished by early
evening. Then came several hours finding dumb moves that prevented the
oscillator from running correctly. As far as I am concerned the Island pad
cutter approach is unsatisfactory for a ham fisted, weak-eyed old fart like
KM4YY. The DVM on the resistance scale was my best trouble shooting tool.
I found three shorts to ground during the Redskins game after disconnecting
L1 temporarily, but finally got it going during the 3rd quarter.
The tuning range was too low, so I again unsoldered L1 and removed a turn.
(You'd think a EE from the University of New Mexico could count, but
apparently not to 44!) This is the third project in a row where I've
screwed up the turn count while winding toroids. (An NJQRP Warbler and a
SW-20+). The tuning range is now 2.085 to 2.185 mhz. The output measured
form 2 V p-p at 2.085, peaked at 2.6 V, and is 1.5 V at 2.185. Is this OK?
Also, I found that the frequency decreased as I turned the 2K 10 turn pot
clockwise and increased when I turn in CCW. Is this normal also?
Back home tomorrow morning, and awaiting comments before proceeding to Stage
3.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls
and looks like work.
--Thomas Edison
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Thanks for the feedback Lee - I tend to tin the pads first for the hard ones. I found the trimmers a little delicate to mount as well - drilled the pads carefully and used tweezers to hold them - otherwise it seemed to go OK. I have not had any cold solder joints (that I know of) but I certainly relate to the "too many connections on one pad" syndrome. When I initially found these bits I started out with a bore that is about a millimeter wider in diameter. It would probably ease this problem a bit, but the pads are a tad large if you want to do compact construction. Jim Kortge and George Heron both agreed that the smaller one was better. In fact I have a whole array of these bits in bigger and smaller sizes.
Anyway, the purpose is to facilitate an easier construction process and it appears that Manhattan is the method of choice for you. The raised pads certainly make it easier to avoid the bridges.
Once again, thanks a lot for taking the time to give me the feedback and lots luck on the rest of the construction. Hope to work you "2N2 to 2N2" in the not to distant future.
73 Dov
>>> lmairs@cox.rr.com 11/26/01 03:19PM >>>
Dov -
I checked each pad with my DVM before wiring to ensure that the crud was out of the moat. The first source of the problem comes from too many connections to the Islander pad. Second source of problems was physically stretching a trimmer capacitor between two pads is difficult without getting a short somewhere in between the two pads.
I'm convinced I also have a lot of cold soldered joints as a result of trying to avoid overflowing the pad and filling the moat.
I think I'm going to go to the Manhattan style to finish the radio, but I'm not sure yet.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: Basil Rabinowitz
To: lmairs@cox.rr.com
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] VFO works - I think...
Hi Lee, glad to hear that you were able to find some time to get a little construction going over the weekend.
I have also been using the islander and it has worked very well for me. I take care to clean the motes after I cut them using a dental pick. Its quick and easy and a good precautionary measure.
I am curious to know whether the problem is due to the moats having debris in them or if it is due to solder spilling over to the ground plane. I have had only one problem with the latter and it was due to overloading the island with too many leads. Since I am looking for ways to improve this I would appreciate it if you could let me know. I learn a lot more from someone who has a difficulty than from 10 people who love it. It's like homebrew - you learn far more when the circuit doesn't work and you have top trouble shoot it (though you wish it had worked first time).
Good luck with the rest of the build,
73 Dov Rabinowitz AD0V
>>> lmairs@cox.rr.com 11/25/01 06:15PM >>>
The guests left yesterday and I was able to get the VFO finished by early
evening. Then came several hours finding dumb moves that prevented the
oscillator from running correctly. As far as I am concerned the Island pad
cutter approach is unsatisfactory for a ham fisted, weak-eyed old fart like
KM4YY. The DVM on the resistance scale was my best trouble shooting tool.
I found three shorts to ground during the Redskins game after disconnecting
L1 temporarily, but finally got it going during the 3rd quarter.
The tuning range was too low, so I again unsoldered L1 and removed a turn.
(You'd think a EE from the University of New Mexico could count, but
apparently not to 44!) This is the third project in a row where I've
screwed up the turn count while winding toroids. (An NJQRP Warbler and a
SW-20+). The tuning range is now 2.085 to 2.185 mhz. The output measured
form 2 V p-p at 2.085, peaked at 2.6 V, and is 1.5 V at 2.185. Is this OK?
Also, I found that the frequency decreased as I turned the 2K 10 turn pot
clockwise and increased when I turn in CCW. Is this normal also?
Back home tomorrow morning, and awaiting comments before proceeding to Stage
3.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls
and looks like work.
--Thomas Edison
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Good Afternoon!
So, I've decided to quit window shopping and get down to the task of
building! I've never built anything manahattan style before, so my first
question is - how big are the pads??
72 .mark
KA6WKE
1996 Ford Ranger
Yaesu 757GXII
HB Screwdriver 3.5-30 Mhz Antenna
http://www.qsl.net/ka6wkeGang,
I also tried the islander approach on v2 of the rig (now on v3 - classic manhattan style) and I found the same problem of too many leads on an island. I still love the tool and think that it is a "must have" for homebrewing. I think that the error that I made was in thinking it was a "direct replacement" for classic manhattan construction. It isn't IMHO, it is a whole new style that would require a complete redesign of the 2N2's physical layout. I think George, N2APB, alluded to that in one of his latest postings about building the 2N2 modular style. The number of islands one has to cut for the 2N2 on one board (and get the placing right) is staggering! Modules are the ONLY way to go on a large project like this. One of my "future" projects will be to build a 2N2/15 using the islander tool in a modular design using a lot of SMT components. I will be breaking down the existing sections into 2 or 3 "subsections" and each will be on its own board.
Also, I would also like to see a "larger" tool as well (7mm) for "busier" intersections. I understand that the next issue of QHB has an article dealing with another way of making "islands" which I am really looking forward to reading!
72 es building away
Dennis
|
952|950|2001-11-26 16:18:27|John Wagner|Re: Dumb Question - Pad Size??|Darn good question.
I'm fond of the round pads and use the hand punch from Harbor Freight.
Mine is an english measurement model, there is also a metric model.
For most things requiring up to 4 connections, I use the 1/8" hole
punch. For more connections, I go with the 5/16" all the way up to 1/4"
if needed. My rule of thumb is to use the smallest pad possible. I think
I've fit 6 leads on a 1/8" one time.
Also, don't feel you need a long L on the bottom of your leads going to
the pad. Sometimes I go straight into the pad - works just as well and
lets you fit more parts per pad.
At first it's sort of hard to gauge what size pad you're going to need
but after a few you'll have the hang of it. Go slow, plan things out as
best you can ahead of time and you'll do fine! Try to draw the physical
circuit out on paper before committing to super glue and solder - less
surprises that way!
Have fun Mark! Keep us up to date on your progress.
73 de John, N1QO
Mark Schoonover wrote:
>
> Good Afternoon!
>
> So, I've decided to quit window shopping and get down to the task of
> building! I've never built anything manahattan style before, so my first
> question is - how big are the pads??
>
> 72 .mark
>
> KA6WKE
> 1996 Ford Ranger
> Yaesu 757GXII
> HB Screwdriver 3.5-30 Mhz Antenna
> http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWell there was a big hairy accident on the highway tonight so I was at least
an hour late getting home. For those of you that don't know this, I live in
Indy and work in Cincy making the 103 mile commute each and every day, each
and every way. So it's bad enough without a wreck to slow me down.
Anyway....I got out my stuff and started on the VFO section tonight.
Managed to get all my pads glued on, the 3 transistors installed, about 5
resistors, and 4 caps...then it was time to put it away until next time.
Looks like I'l be able to stay within the "lines" on this section too.
Groovy.
Probably won't get a chance to work on it until Thursday night...maybe an
hour or two. I'm in no rush, just taking my time.
I am considering building another one of these, BUT, I think the next time,
I will sort my parts by SECTION. Each section being a mini-kit would make
it smoother sailing come time to slobber. I feel like I must be the slowest
Ugly Manhattan builder ever. If I was only better organized.
It's real tricky putting this thing together while looking at the new
schematics, and the old NA5N drawings in the QRPp...sure gets confusing.
Any pitfalls I should be watching for?
73
=========================================================
KB9BVN NORCAL 2792 FISTS 5695 QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
GRID: EM69WN - Ten Tec Scout - Attic Dipole - 5w
Member of the American Radio Relay League - SOC #400
FISTS Century Club #764/#24 QRP - Flying PIG QRP #-57
=========================================================
|
954|950|2001-11-26 22:37:22|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Dumb Question - Pad Size??|At 04:21 PM 11/26/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Darn good question.
>
>I'm fond of the round pads and use the hand punch from Harbor Freight.
>Mine is an english measurement model, there is also a metric model.
>
>For most things requiring up to 4 connections, I use the 1/8" hole
>punch. For more connections, I go with the 5/16" all the way up to 1/4"
>if needed. My rule of thumb is to use the smallest pad possible. I think
>I've fit 6 leads on a 1/8" one time.
>
>Also, don't feel you need a long L on the bottom of your leads going to
>the pad. Sometimes I go straight into the pad - works just as well and
>lets you fit more parts per pad.
>
>At first it's sort of hard to gauge what size pad you're going to need
>but after a few you'll have the hang of it. Go slow, plan things out as
>best you can ahead of time and you'll do fine! Try to draw the physical
>circuit out on paper before committing to super glue and solder - less
>surprises that way!
>
>Have fun Mark! Keep us up to date on your progress.
>
>73 de John, N1QO
I'll just add a few comments to what John has written. For the most
part, and for a new builder, a pad that is 5/32 to 3/16 inch in diameter
is easier to work with than one that is 1/8 inch in diameter. That
said, after you gain more experience, you can use 1/8 inch diameter
pads just fine, and in fact, the larger ones may seem too large.
I can easily get 6 parts soldered on to a 1/8 inch pad, but carefully
assuring that each one comes in from a different angle. Think of the
pad as having 6 pie shaped sections on it, 60 degrees of angle each.
Each lead uses one of those pie shaped wedges, and so, can't extend
past the middle of the pad. That's 1/16 of an inch to make the
connection. Seems small, but it isn't that bad. For surface mount
components, you can only fit 3 to 4 on a 1/8 inch pad, as they are
wider.
GL with your building Mark. We are all waiting to see some
pictures of your rig.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:30 PM 11/25/01 +0000, Dennis, WB0WAO wrote:
>Jim...
> I checked and D9 and D10 are in correctly - looking at flat side left
> lead to ground and right lead to the Xtal/100K junction.
OK...gotta be something else maybe.
>
>
> I have performed the following checks..
>1. Took the Xtals out and checked them with an oscillator. All 3 were at
>4.1958 MHz on the Rat Shack counter.
>2. Checked voltages to D9 and D10. Both were at 2.01 to 3.95 V (using
>the VBW control POT2)
>3. Checked voltages at D14 and D15. At junction of R39 and D14 I get 3.99V
>and at the junction of D14 and D15 I get 2.02V. Ahhh, are the voltage
>annotations on the 11/15 schematic reversed at that point??
Yes, that diagram is in error, and I didn't realize it until you sent
this email. I'll fix the schematic tomorrow. The upper diode should
be at 4 volts, and the lower one at 2 volts. That's what you are showing
ad D9 and D10, which is correct.
You guys are really pushing me at the moment keeping up with all of
the questions, and still keeping some other projects going. You're
all going to like what I'm currently working on though.....
>Only other thing to do is to replace D9 and D10. I have plenty of spares
>for that (at 3 for a $1 from Hosfelt, you can really stock up!) that is
>the only thing that I can think of at this point. I have no real way of
>checking to see if D9 and D10 are working or not. Am I on the right track
>here?
Yes, replacing the diodes may make sense, but keep the old ones, just
in case. Don't want to be trashing good varicap diodes. The supply
of those in the world is getting smaller every day.
72 and GL finding the problem.
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:41 PM 11/25/01 -0600, Kevin Gibson, NØKLV wrote:
>Jim -
>
>The diodes appear to be correct. The voltage at the cathode side of D8
>varies from 0 to 12v as Pot 1 is turned.
Kevin,
Its working like that version of the design is supposed to. If the
diodes were reversed, the voltage wouldn't go above about 0.7 volts.
Gotta be something else not correct.
72, and I hope you find the problem,
Jim, K8IQY
At 06:15 PM 11/25/01 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>The guests left yesterday and I was able to get the VFO finished by early
>evening. Then came several hours finding dumb moves that prevented the
>oscillator from running correctly. As far as I am concerned the Island pad
>cutter approach is unsatisfactory for a ham fisted, weak-eyed old fart like
>KM4YY. The DVM on the resistance scale was my best trouble shooting tool.
>I found three shorts to ground during the Redskins game after disconnecting
>L1 temporarily, but finally got it going during the 3rd quarter.
Sounds like you were successful. How did the Redskins do??
>The tuning range was too low, so I again unsoldered L1 and removed a turn.
>(You'd think a EE from the University of New Mexico could count, but
>apparently not to 44!) This is the third project in a row where I've
>screwed up the turn count while winding toroids. (An NJQRP Warbler and a
>SW-20+). The tuning range is now 2.085 to 2.185 mhz. The output measured
>form 2 V p-p at 2.085, peaked at 2.6 V, and is 1.5 V at 2.185. Is this OK?
Yup, pretty good for right now. You might have to tweak the capacitor
across the VFO output transformer to get the peak in the center of
the tuning range, but I doubt it. When you get it hooked to the
DBM, it will probably be quite flat, and not need any tweaking.
>Also, I found that the frequency decreased as I turned the 2K 10 turn pot
>clockwise and increased when I turn in CCW. Is this normal also?
Nope. You have the wires to the two ends of the pot backwards. Reverse
them so that the frequency increases as the pot shaft is turned clockwise.
Unless of course, you want it that way because you are going to use some
sort of knob assembly on the pot that tunes backwards already.
>Back home tomorrow morning, and awaiting comments before proceeding to Stage
>3.
Don't be waiting on me....... I can't always keep up with all you
guys and gals. There are 126 folks on the list, and one of me.
I know who is gonna be behind!! :-)
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Brian,
I found that the VFO section was pretty much straight forward with NA5N's illustrations. Stage 3 was the one (RF Amp in particular) that made me think. Stage 4 was also pretty easy and Stage 5 is too. That is as far as I got.
72
Dennis
|
959|913|2001-11-26 23:13:50|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Stage IV Done, but ????|At 07:40 PM 11/25/01 -0600, Kevin Gibson, NØKLV wrote:
>After looking at this again, I think it's working. The filter seems to
>change bandwidth as I turn the pot and the tone is nice and strong on the
>output from c26.
Yes, sounds like it is working just fine.
> I have one question. When I look at the waveform at c26, it looks
> complex and "spiky". Is this correct?
Depends. What is going into the rig when you made that observation.
If it was a signal generator connected directly to the input, then
the signal should be a good sinewave. If the input to the rig
was just a wire, or a noise generator, then the output could look
quite "spiky and complex" depending on how you had your scope sweep
set.
> I guess I was expecting a nice sinusoidal waveform.
Only if there is a single signal into the front-end, and no
noise.
72, and a good question by the way.
Jim, K8IQY
At 02:16 AM 11/26/01 +0000, Tom Little, N0DSP wrote:
>Hi everyone,
>
>Well I finally stopped looking and started building. Ok, it was a
>quick, short flurry of activity. But, the solder is finally melting
>here in Colorado, 9,000 feet high in the Rockies!
Sounds like a great place to live Tom.
>I see a Electrolytic Cap in the photos of this section that are
>posted here to the group, but I do not see it on the schematic!?
>What am I missing? Where is it listed and what is the value? I
>guess I am looking at something wrong.
Probably one of the capacitors we are playing with to try to optimize
the QSK. Don't worry about it at the moment. There is lots of
time to fiddle with that at the end.
>Well, the first step is taken. I'm looking forward to building this
>rig. My first from scratch. Hope to complete it by New Years Day.
>Then WAS with it in 2002. Maybe DXCC QRP!
Good plan. There will be others looking for WAS with their rigs
too.
>I have been very impressed with the support given by all here,
>especially John and Jim. Jim, Thank You for all your time and
>effort. You are helping so many of us learn more about this great
>hobby. So many hours of your time, we do appreciate you! I hope to
>work you with MY 2N2-40 in January.
Hope we can work also Tom. Thanks for the kind words. Both
John and I appreciate them.
>Thanks for everyones help! The first of many question, I'm sure.
Bring them on.....I'll do my best.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
At 10:51 PM 11/25/01 -0600, James KC5HAC, wrote:
> > How's everyone else doing out there? Where are the pictures
> > gang???!!!
> >
> > 73 de John, N1QO
>
>Well John, I just finished stage six tonight. Hooked up a speaker,
>closed my eyes ( just in case of a bright flash ),
I hate when that happens...... :-)
> and turned on the
>power. Proud to say that nothing blew up, the LED's light up and I can
>hear something from the speaker, but no CW signals. At this time I still
>do not have a receiver to test stage 3 and 4. I will spend a few
>evenings this week looking for visual mistakes like miswired toroids. I
>am taking pictures with a 35 MM camera. I sure hope the pictures come
>out OK. If I have problems I will be hollering for help soon.
>
> Jim, I just have to ask the purpose for the 8-10 twists per inch on
>the bifilar and trifilar windings? This may of been answered before but
>did not register in my memory.
Good question. The reason that the leads are twisted together is
to keep them balanced as much as possible. They could also be wound
in parallel, but it is really hard to keep the wires together. By
twisting them into one big wire, it is easier to wind, and the wires
are transformed into transmission lines of relative constant impedance.
High frequency coupling takes place due to the transmission line
effects, and the low frequency coupling occurs because the transmission
lines are wound on the toroid with somewhat high permeability. If
you want to know all of the gory details, you should read "Transmission
Line Transformers" by Jerry Stevic.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Brian Murrey wrote:
>
> I am considering building another one of these, BUT, I think the next time,
> I will sort my parts by SECTION. Each section being a mini-kit would make
Probably not a bad idea, wish I would have done that myself. What I did
was pull out all the parts I thought I'd need for a particular section
and then build... well, that's what I intended to do. After a while I
just went a part at a time and admittedly it got tedious. Resistors are
the worst to hunt for (if you have the big party packs from Radio Shack,
which I did).
> it smoother sailing come time to slobber. I feel like I must be the slowest
> Ugly Manhattan builder ever. If I was only better organized.
Trust me, you're not alone in that dept!
> It's real tricky putting this thing together while looking at the new
> schematics, and the old NA5N drawings in the QRPp...sure gets confusing.
> Any pitfalls I should be watching for?
I tried this too with the VFO. My advice; if you're building from the
new schematics, do just that and use your own layout. If you're building
from the old schematics, use the layout from the book. I found it
frustrating trying to go back and forth and abandoned that idea after
the VFO. My suggestion is this; read the book as you come to each
section, look at the layout in the book and look at the old schematic to
get an idea of how things fit, then use the new schematic and design
your own layout. If it looks hairy, plot things out on paper a few times
prior to glue+solder.
73 de John, N1QO
>
> 73
>
> =========================================================
> KB9BVN NORCAL 2792 FISTS 5695 QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
> 39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
> GRID: EM69WN - Ten Tec Scout - Attic Dipole - 5w
> Member of the American Radio Relay League - SOC #400
> FISTS Century Club #764/#24 QRP - Flying PIG QRP #-57
> =========================================================
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThanks for the comments, Jim. It really helps to know that what is done is
OK and not needing re-doing. I am back in Virginia for two weeks, but
brought my building stuff with me. I'll start on Stage 3 this evening.
Redskins crushed Eagles 10-3.
72 de Lee, km4yy
The more laws, the less justice.
--Marcus Tullius Cicero
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 11:06 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] VFO works - I think...
> At 06:15 PM 11/25/01 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
> >The guests left yesterday and I was able to get the VFO finished by early
> >evening. Then came several hours finding dumb moves that prevented the
> >oscillator from running correctly. As far as I am concerned the Island
pad
> >cutter approach is unsatisfactory for a ham fisted, weak-eyed old fart
like
> >KM4YY. The DVM on the resistance scale was my best trouble shooting
tool.
> >I found three shorts to ground during the Redskins game after
disconnecting
> >L1 temporarily, but finally got it going during the 3rd quarter.
>
> Sounds like you were successful. How did the Redskins do??
>
>
> >The tuning range was too low, so I again unsoldered L1 and removed a
turn.
> >(You'd think a EE from the University of New Mexico could count, but
> >apparently not to 44!) This is the third project in a row where I've
> >screwed up the turn count while winding toroids. (An NJQRP Warbler and a
> >SW-20+). The tuning range is now 2.085 to 2.185 mhz. The output
measured
> >form 2 V p-p at 2.085, peaked at 2.6 V, and is 1.5 V at 2.185. Is this
OK?
>
> Yup, pretty good for right now. You might have to tweak the capacitor
> across the VFO output transformer to get the peak in the center of
> the tuning range, but I doubt it. When you get it hooked to the
> DBM, it will probably be quite flat, and not need any tweaking.
>
>
> >Also, I found that the frequency decreased as I turned the 2K 10 turn pot
> >clockwise and increased when I turn in CCW. Is this normal also?
>
> Nope. You have the wires to the two ends of the pot backwards. Reverse
> them so that the frequency increases as the pot shaft is turned clockwise.
> Unless of course, you want it that way because you are going to use some
> sort of knob assembly on the pot that tunes backwards already.
>
>
> >Back home tomorrow morning, and awaiting comments before proceeding to
Stage
> >3.
>
> Don't be waiting on me....... I can't always keep up with all you
> guys and gals. There are 126 folks on the list, and one of me.
> I know who is gonna be behind!! :-)
>
> 72 and GL,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> I tried this too with the VFO. My advice; if you're building from the
> new schematics, do just that and use your own layout. If you're building
> from the old schematics, use the layout from the book. I found it
> frustrating trying to go back and forth and abandoned that idea after
> the VFO. My suggestion is this; read the book as you come to each
> section, look at the layout in the book and look at the old schematic to
> get an idea of how things fit, then use the new schematic and design
> your own layout. If it looks hairy, plot things out on paper a few times
> prior to glue+solder.
John offers good advice here. After working my way through the VFO, I'm now
convinced that this is the way to proceed. I wasted at least two sessions
trying to resolve differences between the latest schematics and the book's
drawings.
Lee
km4yy
The future masters of technology will have to be lighthearted and
intelligent.
The machine easily masters the grim and the dumb.
-- Marshall McLuhan, 1969
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
Brian -- KB9BVN:
> I am considering building another one of these, BUT, I think the
next time,
> I will sort my parts by SECTION. Each section being a mini-kit
would make
> it smoother sailing come time to slobber. I feel like I must be
the slowest
> Ugly Manhattan builder ever. If I was only better organized.
I sorted the parts by section -- I went through the new schematics,
circled what looked like a logial section of the circuit and numbered
it. I think I ended up with about 14 sections :-) . I put the
parts for each section into an Altoids tin, put a little sticky on
the tin and labeled it with the section number. Worked well -- just
like a series of little kits.
> It's real tricky putting this thing together while looking at the
new
> schematics, and the old NA5N drawings in the QRPp...sure gets
confusing.
As I went through each section, I compared Jim's new schematics with
Paul's old drawings. I wrote the part number from the old schematic
next to the part number of the new schematic -- I found that a lot of
the schematic remained the same, and I could use Paul's layout. I
made up my own layout for the sections that differed.
I completed the receiver a week or so ago. I've had it open on the
bench, hooked up to a 20' length of wire running across my basement
ceiling, monitoring the band -- sounds great. I added a little AF
preamp before Jim's audio amp -- the receiver picks up almost
everything my big rig does -- very nice.
Good Luck,
Jake -- N4UY
I've seen others techniques, here's mine...
I inventory from stock (junk box) or new purchases.
I then "do" all the resistors by taping them to strips of masking tape;
grouping by resistance. ie, all 1 ohms, then 10 ohms, or whatever. Then I
place all the resistors together on the tape on a piece of paper. Voila! a
"sheet" of resistors!
I then do the same with capacitors, electrolytic and other.
Odd parts I place in a small box.
As always, YMMV
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspHey Gang,
Uploaded a pic of my progress to date. It is "upside down", but
you can see that I have Sections I thru IV totally done and half of
Section V done. Gonna try and get the RX section done this
week/weekend and then it is TX time!!!!
72 es "Build On, Dude"
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
968|967|2001-11-28 06:24:59|Brian Murrey|Re: Now This Is UGLY Construction!!!|Dennis,
Your photo brought a tear to my eye. We must be twins. If I had a camera, I
could show you mine. I'm 1.5 sections into it and it's obvious we think
alike when it comes to part placement. I am encouraged!
72 es OO
If you're not a Flying Pig member, I urge you to join. You'd fit right in.
http://www.fpqrp.com ----- Original Message -----
From: <wb0wao@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 4:09 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Now This Is UGLY Construction!!!
> Hey Gang,
> Uploaded a pic of my progress to date. It is "upside down", but
> you can see that I have Sections I thru IV totally done and half of
> Section V done. Gonna try and get the RX section done this
> week/weekend and then it is TX time!!!!
>
> 72 es "Build On, Dude"
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Ain't that ugly Dennis! Actually, sort of has a charm all its own. ;)
Nice to see some pics. Build on indeed!
73 de John, N1QO
wb0wao@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Hey Gang,
> Uploaded a pic of my progress to date. It is "upside down", but
> you can see that I have Sections I thru IV totally done and half of
> Section V done. Gonna try and get the RX section done this
> week/weekend and then it is TX time!!!!
>
> 72 es "Build On, Dude"
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comBrian wrote:
> If you're not a Flying Pig member, I urge you to join. You'd fit right in.
>
> http://www.fpqrp.com
>
Brian,
I'm Piggie Proud #-347!!! Pigs Rule!!!!
72 es oo
Dennis
Brian wrote:
> If you're not a Flying Pig member, I urge you to join. You'd fit right in.
>
> http://www.fpqrp.com
>
Brian,
I'm Piggie Proud #-347!!! Pigs Rule!!!!
72 es oo
Dennis
Before I continue building...I can't find this answered anywhere...at which
points should the schematic that shows the variable b/w filter be "broken"
and the fixed filter be inserted? Don't want to leave anything out, or put
something extra in, HI.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspDelbert:
According to the schematics available on yahoogroups.com, the filter is
inserted just after the collector of Q5, and before the T7 primary (1).
Have you seen the variable bandwidth filter? Its really nice, and can't be
too much more trouble to make. Check it out!
Good luck,
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Delbert Long"
wrote:
>..at which
> points should the schematic that shows the variable b/w filter
be "broken"
> and the fixed filter be inserted? >
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
I connected the input end of L100 to the junction of C40 and R38
(leaving out C35, etc.) I haven't applied power yet so if that is
incorrect please let me know. I can always unsolder and ripout.
72,
Kaye K8GZ
_______________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp>
> I connected the input end of L100 to the junction of C40 and R38
> (leaving out C35, etc.) I haven't applied power yet so if that is
> incorrect please let me know. I can always unsolder and ripout.
> 72,
> Kaye K8GZ
> __________
That was my main concern...are C40 and R38 left in or not?
Also...what about C22? Thanks again, and I hope I can recover from
that 19-hour drive on Sunday/Monday AM...get some chores done, and get
back to that radio!
Del, AD6WE
Hi Gang,
Do u have to have an Yahoo email account to join this group??
Seems like to receive "daily" messages you MUST sign up for Yahoo
email? Or pop into the web digest format to see what's up? Rather
than receive 2n2/40 group email in ur own private non Yahooo email?
What's up with that???
I've got most of the parts and get ready to build my 2n2/40 so wanted
to chime in but seems awkward to have multi email accounts? Please
advise. Steve/n0tu
|
977|972|2001-11-28 20:16:11|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Fixed B/W Filter Question|At 07:14 PM 11/28/01 +0000, Delbert Long, AD6WE wrote:
>Before I continue building...I can't find this answered anywhere...at which
>points should the schematic that shows the variable b/w filter be "broken"
>and the fixed filter be inserted?
Well Del, that sorta depends on what you are intending to do.
If you just want to replace the VBF with the FBW filter, then
you need to connect the FBW filter on the input side to the
junction of C40 and R38 using the latest schematics. The output
side will connect directly to the primary of T7. That makes it
a one for one replacement.
If you intend to have both the VBW filter, AND the VBW filter, then
you would connect them end to end. I'd suggest not doing that
unless you add another amplifier ahead of the FBW filter to
make up for the additional insertion loss. If you don't add
the additional amplifier, you'll not like the results.
That's a simple answer, I can get more detailed if you want
more information.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks, Jim...
No, I don't intend to use both. I chose the fixed filter mainly because you
said that it had better opposite sideband rejection, and one other plus that
I can't remember at the moment. Also, using the fixed filter makes it a
little easier to squeeze into the enclosure that I want to use.
Del, AD6WE
Have I ever replied from this address before? I guess I'll confuse
everyone!
|
979|972|2001-11-28 20:42:51|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Fixed B/W Filter Question|At 12:46 AM 11/29/01 +0000, Kaye, K8GZ and Del, AD6WE wrote:
> >
> > I connected the input end of L100 to the junction of C40 and R38
> > (leaving out C35, etc.) I haven't applied power yet so if that is
> > incorrect please let me know. I can always unsolder and ripout.
> > 72,
> > Kaye K8GZ
> > __________
Kaye, you've got it correct if you also connected the output of
the FBW filter to the primary of T7.
>That was my main concern...are C40 and R38 left in or not?
Yes, they are part of the filter driving circuitry, and need to
be there regardless of which filter is used.
>Also...what about C22?
C22 is part of the VBW filter. If the VBW goes, so does C22.
> Thanks again, and I hope I can recover from
>that 19-hour drive on Sunday/Monday AM...get some chores done, and get
>back to that radio!
That sounds like a rather brutal drive!!!
72 and get some sleep!!
Jim, K8IQY
At 01:07 AM 11/29/01 +0000, Steve/n0tu wrote:
>Hi Gang,
>
>Do u have to have an Yahoo email account to join this group??
No, but you do have to sign up with Yahoo to get access to the
files, photos, etc. that are also available. You can subscribe
to just get the email delivered to your account where ever
that might be by sending an email to the Yahoo mail server.
John knows those details, I did, but have forgotten them.
>Seems like to receive "daily" messages you MUST sign up for Yahoo
>email?
Nope, has nothing to do with having an email account on Yahoo.
My email is with Prodigy, and I get all of the mail just fine.
> Or pop into the web digest format to see what's up?
I don't even understand what you said Steve. Sorry.
> Rather
>than receive 2n2/40 group email in ur own private non Yahooo email?
>What's up with that???
Don't understand that either.....
>I've got most of the parts and get ready to build my 2n2/40 so wanted
>to chime in but seems awkward to have multi email accounts?
Have you been getting the posts to the 2N2-40 group, or is that
the issue?
> Please
>advise.
I tried, but I'm not sure I did it very well. Maybe I ought to
stick to designing and building radios!! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
As far as I know; your mileage may vary; in my opinion; normal
disclaimers apply...
You do not need a Yahoo! email account to get the individual emails.
Here are the email only commands/addresses available:
Post message: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Subscribe: 2n2-40-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Unsubscribe: 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
List owner: 2n2-40-owner@yahoogroups.com
You can access these commands from any email address (you must sign-up
from that address first though).
You must be a Yahoo! member and join the 2n2-40 group (but not
neccasarily have a Yahoo! email account) to access the web archives,
files, etc... that belong to the group.
If you don't want to be a Yahoo! member but want the list in digest
format, I can change that for you - just email me from the email address
that you want changed and I'll do it.
For some reason I'm on the list 3 times - I think I joined twice for
some reason or another, just don't remember. I only get one copy of the
emails.
Hope this helps,
73 de John, N1QO
n0tuqrpp@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> Do u have to have an Yahoo email account to join this group??
> Seems like to receive "daily" messages you MUST sign up for Yahoo
> email? Or pop into the web digest format to see what's up? Rather
> than receive 2n2/40 group email in ur own private non Yahooo email?
> What's up with that???
>
> I've got most of the parts and get ready to build my 2n2/40 so wanted
> to chime in but seems awkward to have multi email accounts? Please
> advise. Steve/n0tu
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
Web page: http://www.neknetwork.comI posted some shots of my rig at KCØGXX folder. The shots were
taken with the schools' Sony Mavica FDC-MD1, lighting was indoors. I
am getting a nice turns knob from Mouser. They sent me a small one, I
e-mailed and asked for the larger one, they wrote back and comp-ed it
for me. What a nice company!
I wish mine was as neat as some of the ones I have seen, but hey, its
my first time.
I sure learned a lot about radios, and am looking forward already to
the next project a la Manhatten. Maybe that 10 meter rig by NØMF?
I like that one too!
Your comments and criticisms will be taken with the pride of a new
father..well, ok, maybe not THAT big of a deal....
73
Tom
|
983|983|2001-11-28 22:13:05|Steve/n0tu|Whew! I made it! TKS!|Thanks Jim and John, I finally made it to the list thru my regular email.
Seems I was lost admist the Yahoo form web pages trying to figure out how to
join the list.
I've most of the schematics printed from Jims web page, I'm collecting parts
and getting to start construction. Having had problems w/manhattin pads
lifting on several other rigs I'm going to use a piece of plated-thru holes
project board for this 2n2/40 rig. Hope to meltin' solder with you all soon.
Steve/n0tu
|
984|982|2001-11-28 23:22:21|John Wagner|Re: Pictures!|Hey hey hey, very nice work Tom!!!! Wow, nice clear pics too.
Thanks for sharing, I'm really psyched to see your work and how you did
the parts placement. It's funny, but I've spent so much time going over
this radio, I can just look at your photos without a schematic and know
what each section is and what mine looks like as opposed to yours.
73 de John, N1QO
tdufres@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> I posted some shots of my rig at KCØGXX folder. The shots were
> taken with the schools' Sony Mavica FDC-MD1, lighting was indoors. I
> am getting a nice turns knob from Mouser. They sent me a small one, I
> e-mailed and asked for the larger one, they wrote back and comp-ed it
> for me. What a nice company!
>
> I wish mine was as neat as some of the ones I have seen, but hey, its
> my first time.
>
> I sure learned a lot about radios, and am looking forward already to
> the next project a la Manhatten. Maybe that 10 meter rig by NØMF?
> I like that one too!
>
> Your comments and criticisms will be taken with the pride of a new
> father..well, ok, maybe not THAT big of a deal....
> 73
> Tom
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comSteve,
Your choice, but I recommend you build from the latest schematics that
are available on the Yahoo! 2n2-40 site. Jim has made incorporated a
number of changes into the design.
73 de John, N1QO
Steve/n0tu wrote:
>
> Thanks Jim and John, I finally made it to the list thru my regular email.
> Seems I was lost admist the Yahoo form web pages trying to figure out how to
> join the list.
>
> I've most of the schematics printed from Jims web page, I'm collecting parts
> and getting to start construction. Having had problems w/manhattin pads
> lifting on several other rigs I'm going to use a piece of plated-thru holes
> project board for this 2n2/40 rig. Hope to meltin' solder with you all soon.
> Steve/n0tu
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi,
I started my 2N2/40 some time ago and this group has
me excited to begin again. I have almost all of the
parts except D7 a MVAM109. I have 2n2222's and other
parts anyone have a spare D7 to swap? I hate to pay
shipping, minimum charges, etc for a tiny part!
Thanks,
D.K. Philbin KD6TK
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1At 08:58 PM 11/28/01 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi,
>I started my 2N2/40 some time ago and this group has
>me excited to begin again. I have almost all of the
>parts except D7 a MVAM109. I have 2n2222's and other
>parts anyone have a spare D7 to swap? I hate to pay
>shipping, minimum charges, etc for a tiny part!
>Thanks,
>D.K. Philbin KD6TK
DK,
Send me your snail mail address off list and I will send you
a couple of MV1662 varicaps. Not quite as much capacitance
as an MVAM109, but close enough to work just fine.
72 and GL with your 2N2/40 building,
Jim, K8IQY
Hey Gang,
Got my Mouser order a couple days ago and did a little work on the rig. Still need to finish Section V, but got the "Power Subsystem" working, i.e. 12v DC in jack to fuse block to power switch to LED to board. Also got the TICK keyer interfaced too. Have seperate jacks for key and paddle selectable via a switch on the front panel. Can also turn the piezo speaker on/off via another switch (decided not to try and run the sidetone into the rig for the CMD functions..hi hi). Also checked out the oscillator portion of Section V... WOW is it loud!!! Gonna finish Section V tomorrow and start on Section VI as well. Hope to have a fully functioning RX by the weekend! May play a little TT2 tx/ 2N2 rx on Monday and Tuesday!
72 es "Build on Dudes"
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
989|988|2001-11-29 13:26:00|Delbert Long|Re: Construction Update..|--- In 2n2-40@y..., wb0wao@y... wrote:
Hope to have a fully functioning RX by the weekend! May play a
little TT2 tx/ 2N2 rx on Monday and Tuesday!
>
That's what I hope to do when I get the RX portion finished! Never
had any Q's with the Tuna Tin yet...
Del, AD6WE
--- In 2n2-40@y..., tdufres@h... wrote:
> I posted some shots of my rig at KCØGXX folder.
Hey, Tom - Great Job!!!
I hope mine looks nearly as good as yours when I get done. What
labels are you using? They look great.
Del, AD6WE
Del:
Thanks for the nice words. I used CIRCAD to design the face and back panels.
I then just printed to clear acetate, reverse in, and pasted to the panels
with spray adhesive.
I uploaded the files to Yahoogroup.com.
Save them as text files, and then open with CIRCAD. CIRCAD is a very nice
PCB design software that offers a free demo mode that is pretty amazing.
Good luck and thanks again,
Tom
>Hey, Tom - Great Job!!!
>
>I hope mine looks nearly as good as yours when I get done. What
>labels are you using? They look great.
>
>Del, AD6WE
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspI just now got a chance to look at the pix.
WOW!!
You do good work Tom! Very very nice. Did you HB that case?
I wish I could leave work and go solder some more.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Dufresne" <tdufres@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 2:12 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Pictures!
> Del:
>
> Thanks for the nice words. I used CIRCAD to design the face and back
panels.
> I then just printed to clear acetate, reverse in, and pasted to the panels
> with spray adhesive.
>
> I uploaded the files to Yahoogroup.com.
>
> Save them as text files, and then open with CIRCAD. CIRCAD is a very nice
> PCB design software that offers a free demo mode that is pretty amazing.
>
> Good luck and thanks again,
> Tom
>
> >Hey, Tom - Great Job!!!
> >
> >I hope mine looks nearly as good as yours when I get done. What
> >labels are you using? They look great.
> >
> >Del, AD6WE
> >
> >
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Gang,
You knew this was coming, right? ...
I've been giving a lot of thought to some sort of activity night for
us once we get a few more rigs finished.
Here's what I'm thinking;
We pick a night, I'm thinking a Weds, Fri or Sat night and a time,
like from 9pm EST to 11pm EST (0200z to 0400z - and we may need to
adjust for DX participation - and I would like to have DX!).
We pick a freq span, say 7.045 -> 7.055 (open to suggestions here).
We call: CQ NN CQ NN de YOURCALL
Some of us hunt and pounce and some of us call CQ (sort of like a
sprint). No set number of CQ'ers or H&P'ers, you can do both off
and on throughout the timeframe.
No set exchange, but the suggestion would be to keep the Q's short so
we can work as many as possible. Maybe have a set exchange, like: RST
QTH NAME RIG (RIG would be NN for 2n2/40 and QRP for other rig) then
whatever you feel like sending (or not).
When the time comes, we should announce this on QRP-L and ask that it
be echoed elsewhere so 2n2'ers who aren't on this list can
participate.
As mentioned before, you won't need an actual 2n2/40 to participate,
but QRP will be a requirement. This way those of us who aren't
finished yet can still get in on the fun.
Extra points for working K8IQY (you'll be on, right Jim?)!
OK, actually there are no points, but you get the idea.
We can do this a number of times, so as more folks finish they can use
their rigs in the activity night. Maybe once a month 'till the thrill
wears off?
What do you guys think?
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner
wrote:
> Gang,
>
> We can do this a number of times, so as more folks finish they can use
> their rigs in the activity night. Maybe once a month 'till the thrill
> wears off?
>
You actually expect the thrill to EVER wear off?
I don't think it will for me!!!
Gotta hurry and get the thing finished...
Del, AD6WEThanks for reading!
Although I know the mechanics of winding toroids, what wire size is
needed?? I didn't see anything listed on the website. I just started getting
organized. I converted the latest BOM to a word document and sorted it by
part number. I'll post it to the site tomorrow.
Thanks & 72!!
.mark
Stress is when you wake up screaming and you
realize you haven't fallen asleep yet.
|
996|995|2001-11-29 21:29:24|Lee Mairs|Re: Winding the Toroids|Hi Mark -
I've found so far that the green #26 magnet wire from Radio Shack fit
everywhere on the VFO section. I'm hoping to use some multi-colored
telephone wire for the toroids in the next section, but I don't know whether
the toroids are big enough.
de Lee, KM4YY
==/==/==Police Sigline==/==/==Do Not Cross==/==/==
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schoonover" <schoon@amgt.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 9:16 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Winding the Toroids
> Thanks for reading!
>
> Although I know the mechanics of winding toroids, what wire size is
> needed?? I didn't see anything listed on the website. I just started
getting
> organized. I converted the latest BOM to a word document and sorted it by
> part number. I'll post it to the site tomorrow.
>
> Thanks & 72!!
>
> .mark
>
> Stress is when you wake up screaming and you
> realize you haven't fallen asleep yet.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
At 06:16 PM 11/29/01 -0800, mark, ka6wke wrote:
>Thanks for reading!
>
> Although I know the mechanics of winding toroids, what wire size is
>needed??
#28 or #30 for the trifilar and bifilar transformers. #24 or
#26 (preferred) for the remaining, although, for those where you
need to put 30 turns on a T37 size core, you may have to use
#28 to fit it. It all depends on how good at winding you are,
or will be by the end of the project.
>I didn't see anything listed on the website.
One of those things that the designer seems to forget about. Maybe
it's because I've wound 100+ toroids in the past few years, and forget
that others don't have that kind of experience. With experience, you
start to get a feeling for what size wire to grab based on the number
of turns that are required on the toroid.
> I just started getting
>organized. I converted the latest BOM to a word document and sorted it by
>part number. I'll post it to the site tomorrow.
Oh good. That will be a great help to all, including me.
72 and GL melting solder Mark,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Brian. The case is Radio Shack's large case, steel NOT plastic. I
think it retails for about $ 12.50 or so.
Tom
> I just now got a chance to look at the pix.
>
> WOW!!
>
> You do good work Tom! Very very nice. Did you HB that case?
>
> I wish I could leave work and go solder some more.
Thanks for all the input so far! I think I've wound a total of 3 or 4
toroids. How ever many are in the SW40+. My next question on the BOM - do
the part numbers match the section layouts that are on the website?? This is
my first manhatten style project, and not sure if I can tackle the more
complex sections without the layouts...
72 - .mark
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY [mailto:jokortge@prodigy.net]
> Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 7:12 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Winding the Toroids
>
>
> At 06:16 PM 11/29/01 -0800, mark, ka6wke wrote:
> >Thanks for reading!
> >
> > Although I know the mechanics of winding toroids,
> what wire size is
> >needed??
>
> #28 or #30 for the trifilar and bifilar transformers. #24 or
> #26 (preferred) for the remaining, although, for those where you
> need to put 30 turns on a T37 size core, you may have to use
> #28 to fit it. It all depends on how good at winding you are,
> or will be by the end of the project.
>
> >I didn't see anything listed on the website.
>
> One of those things that the designer seems to forget about. Maybe
> it's because I've wound 100+ toroids in the past few years, and forget
> that others don't have that kind of experience. With experience, you
> start to get a feeling for what size wire to grab based on the number
> of turns that are required on the toroid.
>
> > I just started getting
> >organized. I converted the latest BOM to a word document and
> sorted it by
> >part number. I'll post it to the site tomorrow.
>
> Oh good. That will be a great help to all, including me.
>
> 72 and GL melting solder Mark,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ---------------------~-->
> Universal Inkjet Refill Kit $29.95
> Refill any ink cartridge for less!
> Includes black and color ink.
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> --------------------------------------------------------------
> -------~->
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 08:44 PM 11/29/01 -0800, Mark, KA6WKE wrote:
>Thanks for all the input so far! I think I've wound a total of 3 or 4
>toroids. How ever many are in the SW40+. My next question on the BOM - do
>the part numbers match the section layouts that are on the website??
The BOM on my web site match the layouts on my web site, if I remember
correctly, and match the layouts in the Winter 1998 QRPp article, that
is also the NA5N reprint.
The BOM on the Yahoo 2N2-40 web site match the newer schematics on
that same web site. Quite a few of the parts changed names on
the newer BOM, as it wasn't possible to keep everything the same
with the circuitry changing as much as it did.
> This is
>my first manhatten style project, and not sure if I can tackle the more
>complex sections without the layouts...
There are pictures on the Yahoo web site of how I built
the new RF amplifier, and Post-Mixer amplifier. I'm quite
confident you can figure out the layout from those. If not,
I have many more pictures, and can post them to help you.
I've got a close-up of the RF amplifier that will fill your
whole computer screen, if you have time to download that
critter!! :-)
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Mark -
I found it difficult to use the layouts in the reprint since Jim had to
change many of the parts designations in the schematics on the website.
However, there are a few excellent photos on the website of 2N2-40s in
various stages of completion. They will be a great help if I can ever get
going again...
73 de Lee. KM4YY
Once a new technology rolls over you, if you're not part of the steamroller,
you're part of the road.
-- Stewart Brand
> Thanks for all the input so far! I think I've wound a total of 3 or 4
> toroids. How ever many are in the SW40+. My next question on the BOM - do
> the part numbers match the section layouts that are on the website?? This
is
> my first manhatten style project, and not sure if I can tackle the more
> complex sections without the layouts...
>
> 72 - .mark
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner
wrote:
> I've been giving a lot of thought to some sort of activity night for
> us once we get a few more rigs finished.
>
John:
You bet. Pick the night and time; I'll make every effort to
participate. I believe the only 2N2-to-2N2 QSO I've ever had was the
rig's very first one, which was with K8IQY on schedule. I'd love to
have a whole bunch more in one evening! It'd be great fun.
A regular, or even semi-regular, 2N2/40 activity night or QSO party
would be great. Melt that solder, people! :-)
Still trying to find time to incorporate all of Jim's latest
revisions
into my own 2N2/40. Heck, I'm having trouble keeping up with him
schematic-wise.
72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJGot through all the parts in my junk box! Can 1/8th watt resistors be used??
What voltages are safe for the electrolytics??
Thanks!!
.mark
Stress is when you wake up screaming and you
realize you haven't fallen asleep yet.
|
1005|1004|2001-11-30 19:48:18|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Resistors & Caps|At 01:23 PM 11/30/01 -0800, Mark wrote:
>Got through all the parts in my junk box! Can 1/8th watt resistors be used??
Yes, they should be fine anywhere you want to use them. If one
happens to be to small wattage wise, it will burn up, and you'll
know which one needs to be bigger! :-)
>What voltages are safe for the electrolytics??
Anything on an emitter can be a 6 volt, the rest, either 16 volt
or 25 volt.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi all,
I've been interested in building this rig for over a year now, but
just haven't, period. Well, the weather is starting to turn and I
need a project, so decided to give it a go. Actually what I have in
mind is to build just the receiver portion, a 2n2/40-R if you will. Of
course I'll leave the hooks for a matching 2n2/40-T.
In my parts drawer I have all the toroids I need, but I can't remember
how to tell the difference between ferrite mixes, 43 & 61, one looks
shiny, one looks dull. Which is which?
Thanks & 72
Steve
|
1007|1007|2001-12-01 01:28:27|Don Philbin|The inductance of L1|Gang,
I am restarting this project and I am beginning work
on revamping my first shot at the VFO. I have a AADE
L/C meter and I wanted to insure that I had the proper
inductance for L1. L1 is 44 turns on a T50-7 core.
I searched throough Paul Harden's book and I cannot
find an AL value for a type 7 core. Does anybody have
this AL value? If I knew the inductance of L1 I could
back calculate it.
Help!
D.K. Philbin KD6TK
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping.
http://shopping.yahoo.comMy apologies!
I just searched the archives and found that the value of L1 should be
8.6 uH...sorry for the bandwidth.
D.K. Philbin KD6TK
> Gang,
>
> I am restarting this project and I am beginning work
> on revamping my first shot at the VFO. I have a AADE
> L/C meter and I wanted to insure that I had the proper
> inductance for L1. L1 is 44 turns on a T50-7 core.
> I searched throough Paul Harden's book and I cannot
> find an AL value for a type 7 core. Does anybody have
> this AL value? If I knew the inductance of L1 I could
> back calculate it.
> Help!
>
> D.K. Philbin KD6TK
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping.
> http://shopping.yahoo.com
Hello
I just found the group by looking at messages on QRP-L, and I have
always wanted to build the rig and now I think Im going to give it a
try. I have bought the pad cutter from Harbour Freight and I have
enough pc board material to build it. My problem is that Im not good
with parts and I dont have a clue on how to get all the parts? I
have most of the resistors already, but that is all. I have tried to
set down with Mousers catalog several times to order the parts but I
just get lost with all the descriptions. If anyone has an easy way
for me to get all the parts I would really appreciate you letting me
know. I have the QPRp Winter 98 issue with the article and I am
reading the messages now on this list. I checked with Dans and he
doesnt sell the parts kit now. I have enough pc board material to
build the cabinet with and thats the route im going to go. If anyone
has a list of parts they have ordered with the correct parts number
please let me know. I have built several rigs, but never a homebrew
kit. I am really interested in building the rig and getting caught
up with the list, I also would like to build the 6 meter transverter
and the 15 meter also. I have a current mouser #608 if that helps
anyone. I appreciate any help and 72 to all.
Thanks
Ronnie KE4VPN
|
1010|1009|2001-12-01 09:51:57|Kenneth Hoglund|Re: Hello I just found the group and want to start a 2n2-40|Ronnie--
Welcome aboard! This is a neat project and great rig---of course, I'm still
building mine (very slowly until the semester ends!).
You should join the 2n2-40 Yahoo group if you haven't already. Jim Kortge has
posted "new improved" schematics for the rig on the group website, and there
are really helpful photos from various builders showing the project under
construction.
You need to be a member to access these resources.
Somewhere I have an excel sheet with Mouser and Digi-key numbers that another
builder sent me. I can probably find it and send it to you if you can handle
attachments.
We did a series of group buys for many of the parts early on: was cheaper and
saved us the time of doing just what you're facing now. I handled the unusual
caps for the project, as well as some of the more prolific values, and there
are 2 kits left. One is your's for $7! Just send check or money order to me
(address below). It includes all the NPO's, electrolytics, mons,
silver-micas, and .01mF disc caps. John Wagner handled the toriod cores and
varactors; Jim Kortge himself matched crystals for the variable bandwidth
VFO. Maybe they still have some supplies around to patch another collection
together for you.
Again, welcome to the effort. There's some great explanations and
troubleshooting help in the archives for the group.
73
Ken Hoglund KG4FGC
5050 Cobblestone Rd.
Winston-Salem, NC 27106
Ronnie Davis wrote:
> Hello
> I just found the group by looking at messages on QRP-L, and I have
> always wanted to build the rig and now I think Im going to give it a
> try. I have bought the pad cutter from Harbour Freight and I have
> enough pc board material to build it. My problem is that Im not good
> with parts and I dont have a clue on how to get all the parts? I
> have most of the resistors already, but that is all. I have tried to
> set down with Mousers catalog several times to order the parts but I
> just get lost with all the descriptions. If anyone has an easy way
> for me to get all the parts I would really appreciate you letting me
> know. I have the QPRp Winter 98 issue with the article and I am
> reading the messages now on this list. I checked with Dans and he
> doesnt sell the parts kit now. I have enough pc board material to
> build the cabinet with and thats the route im going to go. If anyone
> has a list of parts they have ordered with the correct parts number
> please let me know. I have built several rigs, but never a homebrew
> kit. I am really interested in building the rig and getting caught
> up with the list, I also would like to build the 6 meter transverter
> and the 15 meter also. I have a current mouser #608 if that helps
> anyone. I appreciate any help and 72 to all.
> Thanks
> Ronnie KE4VPN
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Kenneth
Thanks and a check is on the way. I have joined the Yahoo group and
trying to catch up on the messages. I would like to get Johns email
address or a way to get in touch to see if he still has the torrid
kits? I will email Jim for the crystal information. If I can help in
the project in any way just let me know.
Thanks to all
Ronnie
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Kenneth Hoglund wrote:
> Ronnie--
>
> Welcome aboard! This is a neat project and great rig---of course,
I'm still
> building mine (very slowly until the semester ends!).
>
> You should join the 2n2-40 Yahoo group if you haven't already. Jim
Kortge has
> posted "new improved" schematics for the rig on the group website,
and there
> are really helpful photos from various builders showing the
project under
> construction.
> You need to be a member to access these resources.
>
> Somewhere I have an excel sheet with Mouser and Digi-key numbers
that another
> builder sent me. I can probably find it and send it to you if you
can handle
> attachments.
>
> We did a series of group buys for many of the parts early on: was
cheaper and
> saved us the time of doing just what you're facing now. I handled
the unusual
> caps for the project, as well as some of the more prolific values,
and there
> are 2 kits left. One is your's for $7! Just send check or money
order to me
> (address below). It includes all the NPO's, electrolytics, mons,
> silver-micas, and .01mF disc caps. John Wagner handled the toriod
cores and
> varactors; Jim Kortge himself matched crystals for the variable
bandwidth
> VFO. Maybe they still have some supplies around to patch another
collection
> together for you.
>
> Again, welcome to the effort. There's some great explanations and
> troubleshooting help in the archives for the group.
>
> 73
> Ken Hoglund KG4FGC
> 5050 Cobblestone Rd.
> Winston-Salem, NC 27106
>
> Ronnie Davis wrote:
>
> > Hello
> > I just found the group by looking at messages on QRP-L, and I
have
> > always wanted to build the rig and now I think Im going to give
it a
> > try. I have bought the pad cutter from Harbour Freight and I have
> > enough pc board material to build it. My problem is that Im not
good
> > with parts and I dont have a clue on how to get all the parts? I
> > have most of the resistors already, but that is all. I have
tried to
> > set down with Mousers catalog several times to order the parts
but I
> > just get lost with all the descriptions. If anyone has an easy
way
> > for me to get all the parts I would really appreciate you
letting me
> > know. I have the QPRp Winter 98 issue with the article and I am
> > reading the messages now on this list. I checked with Dans and he
> > doesnt sell the parts kit now. I have enough pc board material to
> > build the cabinet with and thats the route im going to go. If
anyone
> > has a list of parts they have ordered with the correct parts
number
> > please let me know. I have built several rigs, but never a
homebrew
> > kit. I am really interested in building the rig and getting
caught
> > up with the list, I also would like to build the 6 meter
transverter
> > and the 15 meter also. I have a current mouser #608 if that helps
> > anyone. I appreciate any help and 72 to all.
> > Thanks
> > Ronnie KE4VPN
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hey Ken do you still have ani of those cap kits left now???
Steve/n0tu
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenneth Hoglund" <hoglund@wfu.edu>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 7:51 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Hello I just found the group and want to start a
2n2-40
> Ronnie--
>
> Welcome aboard! This is a neat project and great rig---of course, I'm
still
> building mine (very slowly until the semester ends!).
>
> You should join the 2n2-40 Yahoo group if you haven't already. Jim Kortge
has
> posted "new improved" schematics for the rig on the group website, and
there
> are really helpful photos from various builders showing the project under
> construction.
> You need to be a member to access these resources.
>
> Somewhere I have an excel sheet with Mouser and Digi-key numbers that
another
> builder sent me. I can probably find it and send it to you if you can
handle
> attachments.
>
> We did a series of group buys for many of the parts early on: was cheaper
and
> saved us the time of doing just what you're facing now. I handled the
unusual
> caps for the project, as well as some of the more prolific values, and
there
> are 2 kits left. One is your's for $7! Just send check or money order to
me
> (address below). It includes all the NPO's, electrolytics, mons,
> silver-micas, and .01mF disc caps. John Wagner handled the toriod cores
and
> varactors; Jim Kortge himself matched crystals for the variable bandwidth
> VFO. Maybe they still have some supplies around to patch another
collection
> together for you.
>
> Again, welcome to the effort. There's some great explanations and
> troubleshooting help in the archives for the group.
>
> 73
> Ken Hoglund KG4FGC
> 5050 Cobblestone Rd.
> Winston-Salem, NC 27106
>
> Ronnie Davis wrote:
>
> > Hello
> > I just found the group by looking at messages on QRP-L, and I have
> > always wanted to build the rig and now I think Im going to give it a
> > try. I have bought the pad cutter from Harbour Freight and I have
> > enough pc board material to build it. My problem is that Im not good
> > with parts and I dont have a clue on how to get all the parts? I
> > have most of the resistors already, but that is all. I have tried to
> > set down with Mousers catalog several times to order the parts but I
> > just get lost with all the descriptions. If anyone has an easy way
> > for me to get all the parts I would really appreciate you letting me
> > know. I have the QPRp Winter 98 issue with the article and I am
> > reading the messages now on this list. I checked with Dans and he
> > doesnt sell the parts kit now. I have enough pc board material to
> > build the cabinet with and thats the route im going to go. If anyone
> > has a list of parts they have ordered with the correct parts number
> > please let me know. I have built several rigs, but never a homebrew
> > kit. I am really interested in building the rig and getting caught
> > up with the list, I also would like to build the 6 meter transverter
> > and the 15 meter also. I have a current mouser #608 if that helps
> > anyone. I appreciate any help and 72 to all.
> > Thanks
> > Ronnie KE4VPN
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
Steve--
Ronnie has claimed one --and I went to the bench to doublecheck and actually
there were three left, so now there are two. You're welcomed to the second!
I'll hold it until the check arrives.
73
Ken KG4FGC
Steve/n0tu wrote:
> Hey Ken do you still have ani of those cap kits left now???
> Steve/n0tu
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kenneth Hoglund" <hoglund@wfu.edu>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 7:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Hello I just found the group and want to start a
> 2n2-40
>
> > Ronnie--
> >
> > Welcome aboard! This is a neat project and great rig---of course, I'm
> still
> > building mine (very slowly until the semester ends!).
> >
> > You should join the 2n2-40 Yahoo group if you haven't already. Jim Kortge
> has
> > posted "new improved" schematics for the rig on the group website, and
> there
> > are really helpful photos from various builders showing the project under
> > construction.
> > You need to be a member to access these resources.
> >
> > Somewhere I have an excel sheet with Mouser and Digi-key numbers that
> another
> > builder sent me. I can probably find it and send it to you if you can
> handle
> > attachments.
> >
> > We did a series of group buys for many of the parts early on: was cheaper
> and
> > saved us the time of doing just what you're facing now. I handled the
> unusual
> > caps for the project, as well as some of the more prolific values, and
> there
> > are 2 kits left. One is your's for $7! Just send check or money order to
> me
> > (address below). It includes all the NPO's, electrolytics, mons,
> > silver-micas, and .01mF disc caps. John Wagner handled the toriod cores
> and
> > varactors; Jim Kortge himself matched crystals for the variable bandwidth
> > VFO. Maybe they still have some supplies around to patch another
> collection
> > together for you.
> >
> > Again, welcome to the effort. There's some great explanations and
> > troubleshooting help in the archives for the group.
> >
> > 73
> > Ken Hoglund KG4FGC
> > 5050 Cobblestone Rd.
> > Winston-Salem, NC 27106
> >
> > Ronnie Davis wrote:
> >
> > > Hello
> > > I just found the group by looking at messages on QRP-L, and I have
> > > always wanted to build the rig and now I think Im going to give it a
> > > try. I have bought the pad cutter from Harbour Freight and I have
> > > enough pc board material to build it. My problem is that Im not good
> > > with parts and I dont have a clue on how to get all the parts? I
> > > have most of the resistors already, but that is all. I have tried to
> > > set down with Mousers catalog several times to order the parts but I
> > > just get lost with all the descriptions. If anyone has an easy way
> > > for me to get all the parts I would really appreciate you letting me
> > > know. I have the QPRp Winter 98 issue with the article and I am
> > > reading the messages now on this list. I checked with Dans and he
> > > doesnt sell the parts kit now. I have enough pc board material to
> > > build the cabinet with and thats the route im going to go. If anyone
> > > has a list of parts they have ordered with the correct parts number
> > > please let me know. I have built several rigs, but never a homebrew
> > > kit. I am really interested in building the rig and getting caught
> > > up with the list, I also would like to build the 6 meter transverter
> > > and the 15 meter also. I have a current mouser #608 if that helps
> > > anyone. I appreciate any help and 72 to all.
> > > Thanks
> > > Ronnie KE4VPN
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Have had other things going on but think it's time to get this neat
project together. Before I reinvent the wheel has anyone done a
toroid kit and the resistors for this project. I have everything
else. Thanks in advance and enjoy your weekend...73...Ed
|
1015|993|2001-12-01 14:23:29|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2n2/40 activity night|At 05:08 PM 11/29/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>Gang,
>
>You knew this was coming, right? ...
>
>I've been giving a lot of thought to some sort of activity night for
>us once we get a few more rigs finished.
>
>-snip-
>
>Extra points for working K8IQY (you'll be on, right Jim?)!
Let me know the time(s) and place(s) and I'll be there
with 'ol #3. #1 is retired for the moment, and #2 belongs
to WJ2V. I'll bet we can get Preston on too.
>OK, actually there are no points, but you get the idea.
Well we will count points, but nobody will be collecting
them and there are NO prizes, except the fun of working
some 2N2/40 rigs.
>We can do this a number of times, so as more folks finish they can use
>their rigs in the activity night. Maybe once a month 'till the thrill
>wears off?
That works for me!!!
>What do you guys think?
Let's do it......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....maybe we ought to call CQ 2N2 though, just to confuse
more people. :-) They'll think its some rare DX we're
after, or a special events station. On second thought,
CQ 2N might be better.
I finally was bale to get back to sniffing solder and finished placing
the parts on the board for the new version of the RF amp. Thought I
would apply 12V to see the diode light up. Well it didn't. Sooo, I
measured the diode voltage and found something like .3MV. Seemed
stange so first I removed the .1 capacitor and gusee what the diode
lite up and was 1.6V. Thought the capacitor was bad but not so. Tried
several other cap valuse and found a smaller value that would allow
the diode to light with 1.6V. Wondering what's the circuit doing that
causing this strange beheiver. Perhaps oscillations?
Going back to the bench to check scope and transformer winding
phasing.
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
|
1017|1006|2001-12-01 14:30:48|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Just joined & playing catch-up ... sort of....|At 02:22 AM 12/1/01 +0000, Steve, K8PZ wrote:
>Hi all,
>I've been interested in building this rig for over a year now, but
>just haven't, period.
-snip-
>In my parts drawer I have all the toroids I need, but I can't remember
> how to tell the difference between ferrite mixes, 43 & 61, one looks
>shiny, one looks dull. Which is which?
The shiny are type 43, and the dull are type 61. That assumes they
have no paint colors on them, but just the raw ferrite material,
as they come from MicroMetals.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....if you have an AADE L/C meter you can easily find which one
is which. Run a single turn through the core and measure the
inductance. The one with the higher inductance is the 43 core,
with u of 850, and the lower inductance core is the 61, with
a u of 125.
>Thanks & 72
>Steve
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 02:37 PM 12/1/01 +0000, Ronnie, KE4VPN wrote:
>Hello
>I just found the group by looking at messages on QRP-L, and I have
>always wanted to build the rig and now I think Im going to give it a
>try. I have bought the pad cutter from Harbour Freight and I have
>enough pc board material to build it. My problem is that Im not good
>with parts and I dont have a clue on how to get all the parts? I
>have most of the resistors already, but that is all. I have tried to
>set down with Mousers catalog several times to order the parts but I
>just get lost with all the descriptions. If anyone has an easy way
>for me to get all the parts I would really appreciate you letting me
>know. I have the QPRp Winter 98 issue with the article and I am
>reading the messages now on this list. I checked with Dans and he
>doesnt sell the parts kit now. I have enough pc board material to
>build the cabinet with and thats the route im going to go. If anyone
>has a list of parts they have ordered with the correct parts number
>please let me know. I have built several rigs, but never a homebrew
>kit. I am really interested in building the rig and getting caught
>up with the list, I also would like to build the 6 meter transverter
>and the 15 meter also. I have a current mouser #608 if that helps
>anyone. I appreciate any help and 72 to all.
>Thanks
>Ronnie KE4VPN
Welcome to the group Ronnie,
I still have variable bandwidth and fixed bandwidth crystal sets
available. The VBW is a replacement for the original design since
MV2115 varicap diode are no longer available. It is a 3 pole
filter, and can be varied from 750 Hz down to 250 Hz. The FBW filter
is 4 poles, fixed at about 450 Hz. Either filter can be used in
the rig without modification to the driving or terminating circuitry.
The VBW is $9.00 and the FBW is $10.00. Those are offered to
the 2N2-40 group at essentially cost. A personel check or MO
to my callbook address will get you any of the flavors sent
via regular mail.
I can't help with the other parts, but others on the list may
be able to assist.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
At 07:28 PM 12/1/01 +0000, Ken, KD2KW wrote:
>I finally was bale to get back to sniffing solder and finished placing
>the parts on the board for the new version of the RF amp. Thought I
>would apply 12V to see the diode light up. Well it didn't. Sooo, I
>measured the diode voltage and found something like .3MV. Seemed
>stange so first I removed the .1 capacitor and gusee what the diode
>lite up and was 1.6V. Thought the capacitor was bad but not so. Tried
>several other cap valuse and found a smaller value that would allow
>the diode to light with 1.6V. Wondering what's the circuit doing that
>causing this strange beheiver. Perhaps oscillations?
Indeed! At least that would be my first guess. You've probably
got the 1 turn emitter winding going the wrong way through the
toroid. Reverse those leads and see if it doesn't behave
better. The LED should be the same brightness regardless of
the capacitor across it, unless that capacitor is really
small. The capacitor is to bypass RF on the base lead that
isn't taken to ground by the LED. The amplifier runs as
a grounded base configuration.
>Going back to the bench to check scope and transformer winding
>phasing.
There you go........my money is on the 1 turn winding!! :-)
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
There was no toroid kit. I had a collection of parts, some donated, some
bought that I was shipping for $6. K8IQY had donated 50 T50-7's and
that's the only toroid I know about that was offered.
I still have a few packs of parts left. Please research the archives to
see the listing. Also, when I say I have a few, that's it, a few - I'd
like to save them for folks like Ed here who are just finding out about
us and want to build.
Please email me direct if you want parts pack I have.
73 de John, N1QO
kb2nto@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Have had other things going on but think it's time to get this neat
> project together. Before I reinvent the wheel has anyone done a
> toroid kit and the resistors for this project. I have everything
> else. Thanks in advance and enjoy your weekend...73...Ed
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim,
You were right. Looked at the waveform with scope and saw the
oscillations. First went to the one turn winding and reversed the
leads. Whla, no oscillations and the led is on. Now on to the
mixer. Maybe I'll hear some signals tonight.
Moving that winding was no small task (or better said a real task with
the coil still in place and other parts around). This project sure
would keep the lids outa trouble... Each accomplishment gives you more
pump to get it done. Can't wait till I have it on the air and make
contact with you guys. Of course I still have to get an antenna up.
Great support from the gang so I'm sure we'll have fun on the band
with this one.
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 07:28 PM 12/1/01 +0000, Ken, KD2KW wrote:
> >I finally was bale to get back to sniffing solder and finished
placing
> >the parts on the board for the new version of the RF amp. Thought I
> >would apply 12V to see the diode light up. Well it didn't. Sooo, I
> >measured the diode voltage and found something like .3MV. Seemed
> >stange so first I removed the .1 capacitor and gusee what the diode
> >lite up and was 1.6V. Thought the capacitor was bad but not so.
Tried
> >several other cap valuse and found a smaller value that would allow
> >the diode to light with 1.6V. Wondering what's the circuit doing
that
> >causing this strange beheiver. Perhaps oscillations?
>
> Indeed! At least that would be my first guess. You've probably
> got the 1 turn emitter winding going the wrong way through the
> toroid. Reverse those leads and see if it doesn't behave
> better. The LED should be the same brightness regardless of
> the capacitor across it, unless that capacitor is really
> small. The capacitor is to bypass RF on the base lead that
> isn't taken to ground by the LED. The amplifier runs as
> a grounded base configuration.
>
>
> >Going back to the bench to check scope and transformer winding
> >phasing.
>
> There you go........my money is on the 1 turn winding!! :-)
>
> 72 and GL,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
I like the CQ 2N idea but lets see if we can't post the contacts on
the 2N2-40 groups folder so we can keep track. It would be good to be
able to check the group page every so often to see how the rest of the
group is doing.
You guys are forcing em to get the antenna up first or is the wx right
yet? For now back to the soldering as I only got parts of the end fed
inverted V we spoke about some weeks ago.
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 05:08 PM 11/29/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
> >Gang,
> >
> >You knew this was coming, right? ...
> >
> >I've been giving a lot of thought to some sort of activity night
for
> >us once we get a few more rigs finished.
> >
> >-snip-
> >
> >Extra points for working K8IQY (you'll be on, right Jim?)!
>
> Let me know the time(s) and place(s) and I'll be there
> with 'ol #3. #1 is retired for the moment, and #2 belongs
> to WJ2V. I'll bet we can get Preston on too.
>
>
> >OK, actually there are no points, but you get the idea.
>
> Well we will count points, but nobody will be collecting
> them and there are NO prizes, except the fun of working
> some 2N2/40 rigs.
>
>
> >We can do this a number of times, so as more folks finish they can
use
> >their rigs in the activity night. Maybe once a month 'till the
thrill
> >wears off?
>
> That works for me!!!
>
>
> >What do you guys think?
>
> Let's do it......
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS....maybe we ought to call CQ 2N2 though, just to confuse
> more people. :-) They'll think its some rare DX we're
> after, or a special events station. On second thought,
> CQ 2N might be better.
All,
FWIW; I think CQ 2N might get a little unwiedly, that's why I came up
with the CQ NN (2n's).
I'm sure if you send either we'll know what you're talking about though.
;)
I only put up antennas in the rain and snow, they seem to work better
that... or so it seems.
73 de John, N1QO
kenm1@ev1.net wrote:
>
> I like the CQ 2N idea but lets see if we can't post the contacts on
> the 2N2-40 groups folder so we can keep track. It would be good to be
> able to check the group page every so often to see how the rest of the
> group is doing.
>
> You guys are forcing em to get the antenna up first or is the wx right
> yet? For now back to the soldering as I only got parts of the end fed
> inverted V we spoke about some weeks ago.
>
> 73,
> Ken, KD2KW
> Spring, Texas
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > At 05:08 PM 11/29/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
> > >Gang,
> > >
> > >You knew this was coming, right? ...
> > >
> > >I've been giving a lot of thought to some sort of activity night
> for
> > >us once we get a few more rigs finished.
> > >
> > >-snip-
> > >
> > >Extra points for working K8IQY (you'll be on, right Jim?)!
> >
> > Let me know the time(s) and place(s) and I'll be there
> > with 'ol #3. #1 is retired for the moment, and #2 belongs
> > to WJ2V. I'll bet we can get Preston on too.
> >
> >
> > >OK, actually there are no points, but you get the idea.
> >
> > Well we will count points, but nobody will be collecting
> > them and there are NO prizes, except the fun of working
> > some 2N2/40 rigs.
> >
> >
> > >We can do this a number of times, so as more folks finish they can
> use
> > >their rigs in the activity night. Maybe once a month 'till the
> thrill
> > >wears off?
> >
> > That works for me!!!
> >
> >
> > >What do you guys think?
> >
> > Let's do it......
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> > PS....maybe we ought to call CQ 2N2 though, just to confuse
> > more people. :-) They'll think its some rare DX we're
> > after, or a special events station. On second thought,
> > CQ 2N might be better.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHowdy Gang,
I wanted to run my present situation by you guys with regard to the QSK
and RIT in my rig.
My current mute/switching circuit consists of the following;
C68 4.7uF
C67 .01uF (I'm not sure this cap matters)
C43 10uF
D18 1N5817 Schottky rectifier
Still quite thumpy, actually it blats on initial key down. It's so
thumpy that I can't work the rig with headphones as the initial blat
hurts the 'ol ears.
I know enough to be dangerous and have been trying different things
suggested here with no real improvements. One fix that I think will work
for sure is a mechanical switch that just kills the power to the 2n7000.
I've used older rigs with this type of arrangement and for the most part
it's not that much of a problem to manually throw a switch to xmit. Sort
of defeats the elegance of QSK though.
WRT the RIT, I've replaced Q23 with a 2N7000. For some reason mine works
where Jim reports when he did it it didn't work at all! The problem is
that when I turn the RIT clockwise to increase the listening freq, the
xmit freq also increases a small fraction as well. The less clockwise,
the less the increase. This isn't a big deal in normal everyday
operation, but if I wanted to use the RIG as the QRP-L Fox I would
definitely need my xmit freq to stay pretty steady while I jerked the
RIT around. As it is, fully clockwise I listen up about 1.2Khz but xmit
up abt 20Hz from where I was.
Jim had mentioned he was looking into fixes to help this but I'm
wondering if anyone else has made any mods here.
Thanks all! 73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHello again! Looks like its time to ask for help as the last time I was
pointed in the right direction to fix the problem. I have been going
over my work with the voltage chart on the 2n2/40+ diagram. This did
help me find a couple of small errors that I have corrected but still
seem to have a few that I can not seem to locate. These voltage
measurements were taken using a battery putting out 12.25 volts.
Q5 : E= 40.5 mv B= .667 V C= 12.25 V
Q6 : E= .253 V B= .913 V C= 6.36 V
Q7 : E= 5.69 V B= 6.36 V C= 11.81 V
Q8 : E= 4.22 V B= 3.98 V C= 10.15 V
I found that my mistakes were in areas that I cramped very close together
not knowing how much room the circuit would take up. On sections 5 and
6, I started spreading the parts out a bit which made the sections look
much nicer and it was easier to follow my work. I keep going back to
R34,R24,R23, and R14 but can find nothing wrong in parts or placement. I
will gladly accept any help! One day I will invest in a digital camera
as I now seem to have a need for one. :-)
Thanks!
James Wayne Rue
KC5HAC
________________________________________________________________
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http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.At 08:23 PM 12/1/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>Howdy Gang,
>
>I wanted to run my present situation by you guys with regard to the QSK
>and RIT in my rig.
>
>My current mute/switching circuit consists of the following;
>C68 4.7uF
>C67 .01uF (I'm not sure this cap matters)
>C43 10uF
>D18 1N5817 Schottky rectifier
>
>Still quite thumpy, actually it blats on initial key down. It's so
>thumpy that I can't work the rig with headphones as the initial blat
>hurts the 'ol ears.
One capacitor to try adding John is a 22uF on the Tx line.
I've got mine sort of in the middle of the rig on the pad
that all of the lines branch off to the various stages of
the Tx section. That seems to help a lot.
One other suggestion to try which just developed in trying
to help one of the other builders with a low audio problem,
is to add a pair of 1N34A diodes back-to-back on the drain
lead of the 2N7000 to ground. That should remove all of
the higher level audio artifacts that may still be making it
through the system. Under normal receiving conditions, there
won't be any where enough signal to make those conduct
significantly.
>I know enough to be dangerous and have been trying different things
>suggested here with no real improvements. One fix that I think will work
>for sure is a mechanical switch that just kills the power to the 2n7000.
>I've used older rigs with this type of arrangement and for the most part
>it's not that much of a problem to manually throw a switch to xmit. Sort
>of defeats the elegance of QSK though.
Sure does.......
>WRT the RIT, I've replaced Q23 with a 2N7000. For some reason mine works
>where Jim reports when he did it it didn't work at all! The problem is
>that when I turn the RIT clockwise to increase the listening freq, the
>xmit freq also increases a small fraction as well. The less clockwise,
>the less the increase. This isn't a big deal in normal everyday
>operation, but if I wanted to use the RIG as the QRP-L Fox I would
>definitely need my xmit freq to stay pretty steady while I jerked the
>RIT around. As it is, fully clockwise I listen up about 1.2Khz but xmit
>up abt 20Hz from where I was.
I'd say 20 Hz out of 1200 is darned good for an analog system. I
don't think you are going to do any better than that. Which
reminds me, I was going to order some of those really low
Vce Sat transistors on my next Mouser order and completely forgot
to do it. Nuts!!!!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....missed getting you in the fox hunt the other evening, but
did work YU1AAO and HA9RT/3 for 2 new DX stations with my
2N2/40. 569 and 559 reports respectively. Good Mojo!!
>Jim had mentioned he was looking into fixes to help this but I'm
>wondering if anyone else has made any mods here.
>
>Thanks all! 73,
>
>John, N1QO
>--
>John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
>Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
First of all WELCOME! You will have a blast building this great rig!
I saw several posts about where to get the parts, etc. I have
available D5 (1N4752A), D24 (1N4752A) and D27 (1N4744A) - I did the
buy on the zeners for the original kits. Any of the new builders that
need them send me a SASE to me at:
Dennis Ponsness - WB0WAO
509 First Street
Oscoda, MI 48750
and I will send 'em to ya. No need to send any money or anything
like that, I did a "lifetime buy" of those zeners :-) Enjoy building
and CU on 40m soon!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1028|223|2001-12-02 00:31:28|Craig Johnson|Re: LED question on VBW Xtal Filter|Hi 2N2-40 Gang,
I have been reading the messages in this group and ready to start building
my 2N2-40 again.
My first task was to collect the schematics and decide on the version and
features I wanted to use. I decided I wanted the Variable Bandwidth Filter,
and no RIT. Then I decided I wanted it to be the use ONLY 2N2222
transistors, so I went back to Jim's modified (not original) mute circuit
which uses a 2N2222. I realize the new version with the 2N7000 is better,
but I really want to stick with the original "ground rules" for mine.
I have about 3 versions of the schematics and a couple of versions of the
pictorial drawings, including Jim's and Paul Harden's. However, the latest
schematics have so many changes that I got really confused. Also, I really
prefer to have a single page schematic if at all possible. (Obviously not
always possible.) I decided to drawing a new version of the schematics
with the features I mentioned. I did it with a schematic/simulation program
called CircuitMaker, but I was also able to export it into a Word version.
It takes three pages when printed out in CircuitMaker, and then the 3 pages
can be taped together to see the whole picture. With the Word version, I
am working on a way to make them span pages. You can see them OK
on the computer screen if you use magnification. Try 400% or 500%.
(Anyone know how to print them in the magnified size on multiple sheets
of paper? )
Next I did a new parts layout. I made an actual size template (5" x 7" as
in the original drawings) for the pad layout using Microsoft PowerPoint.
It uses the same basic sections as previous drawings. However, it has the
modified 2N2222 mute that is diffetent from the original. Most of the parts
layouts were close to the versions previously drawn by Jim and Paul.
However, some sections had major modifications. I think all the parts
will fit per the drawing.
Then, still in PowerPoint, I drew in rough approximation of all the parts.
I say rough approximation, because I just have small circles for "normal"
resistors and capacitors. Crystals and torroids are approximated by
rectangles. Trimmer capacitors are illustrated with a rough drawing of a
trimmer. Electrolytic capacitors are larger circles. The output audio
transformer is approximately the correct size.
I tried to translate the PowerPoint drawing into a Microsoft Word drawing,
those who have Word but don't have PowerPoint, but it did not translate
perfectly. If this is really needed by someone, let me know and I will try to
get it to work. Just some more tedious work.
I think this drawing should be usable by anyone who has PowerPoint wants
to print it. Use it by making a small hole in the paper where each pad is. Now use
a felt-tip pen to mark through these holes onto the circuit board. Now glue 'em on.
What's missing? Most of the interconnection wires between the sections, the power
feed to the various pads (marked Vcc), and some of the connections to external pots.
I am working on another drawing which will have illustrate these interconnections.
It made the drawing too cluttered to put them all in this one.
These three files are now posted in the files section.
Now, obviously, I have to build it to make sure there are no errors. In the mean
time, if anyone finds errors, please post them so we all will know.
73,
Craig, AAØZZ
|
1029|1029|2001-12-02 00:34:00|wb0wao@yahoo.com|RG-174 Hookup ??|Gang,
Am I correct in assuming that the board interconnects using RG-174,
i.e. RX ant in Sequence 3 to the filter in Sequence 8 and from the IF
to the Detector - the shield should ONLY be grounded at one end? I
know that the run from the antenna to the board is grounded at both..
:-) Is this correct or can they be grounded at both ends?
72
Dennis
|
1030|1027|2001-12-02 09:40:24|John Wagner|Re: For the "Newbies"...|FWIW,
I have a few of the diodes left over from what Dennis sent. I also have
a few extra 2N7000's, T10's and MV109's. If you need just these, or
managed to let the smoke out of some, let me know.
I also have a few, very few, complete parts packs available for $6
(includes the above and a few more parts, some donated, some bought).
Here is what's in that pack:
Varicap diodes: These will be easy to tell apart because there
is one of the MVAM109 and two of the MV1662:
D7 - MVAM109 - Black plastic case, two long leads coming from bottom
D8, D9 - MV1662 - Black plastic case, two short leads coming from bottom
RFC's: These look similar to resistors:
L2, L4 - 39uH molded - orange, white, black bands
L3 - 4.7uH molded - yellow, violet, gold bands
L8 - 12uH molded - brown, red, brown
Heat Sink x 4 (for metal 2n2222) - big and red - nice!
These diodes have their designators written on them but they are hard
to read. I tagged them with one side of colored tape on two of
them - one of them has no tag:
D5 - 1N4735A - No tag
D21 - 1N4744A - Red tag (white in one side)
Dx (for mod) - 1N4752A - White tag
Others:
T10 - only one of its kind in the kit
1N4007 x 2 - black diode, marked
BNC Jack - should be easy to pick out
2N7000 (for mute circuit) - Marked
T50-7 - white toroid
Since I have so few of these remaining, please do not ask for a pack if
you've already bought one - I want them to go to folks who may have
joined us late. Also, please, only ask for these parts if you are
definitely going to build. Sorry to have to add these caveats, but I
want these parts to go into 2n2/40's.
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
wb0wao@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> First of all WELCOME! You will have a blast building this great rig!
> I saw several posts about where to get the parts, etc. I have
> available D5 (1N4752A), D24 (1N4752A) and D27 (1N4744A) - I did the
> buy on the zeners for the original kits. Any of the new builders that
> need them send me a SASE to me at:
>
> Dennis Ponsness - WB0WAO
> 509 First Street
> Oscoda, MI 48750
>
> and I will send 'em to ya. No need to send any money or anything
> like that, I did a "lifetime buy" of those zeners :-) Enjoy building
> and CU on 40m soon!
>
> 72
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 05:33 AM 12/2/01 +0000, Dennis, WB0WAO wrote:
>Gang,
> Am I correct in assuming that the board interconnects using RG-174,
>i.e. RX ant in Sequence 3 to the filter in Sequence 8 and from the IF
>to the Detector - the shield should ONLY be grounded at one end?
That's always the preferred method IMHO. Keeps ground loops
from being formed.
For those who don't know what a ground loop
is, it is a circuit formed by the PC board substrate copper, (or
equivalent), and a second conduction path, like both ends of
the shield of coax connected to two places on the substrate.
That arrangement forms a complete circuit, around which RF
currents can flow. Not good! You eliminate that possibility
by breaking the coax ground somewhere. At one end is the most
convenient. Doesn't matter which end.
> I
>know that the run from the antenna to the board is grounded at both..
>:-)
That's to assure the coax connector and the substrate are nearly
at the same RF potential. It would work with that coax only
grounded at on end too.
> Is this correct or can they be grounded at both ends?
One end only is better in most cases. Notice I didn't say all.
RF does weird stuff sometimes.
72 and good question Dennis,
Jim, K8IQY
Hello Gang,
Work has been keeping me swamped. I work in the Emergency Management field
& we have been VERY busy since Sept. 11. I have just completed the VFO.
It appears to be working. I have a couple of questions:
1.The tuning range is 2.085 - 2.176. Should I take a turn off L1, or leave
it alone?
2. I took some transistor voltage readings. (I am building off the new
schematics) Here is what I found:
Q1 E 3.74 B 4.28 C 6.82
Q2 E 2.60 B 3.07 C 13.84
Q3 E 1.89 B 2.60 C 1.90
Q4 E 1.57 B 1.66 C 10.17
D5 6.82
D6 .68
Looks like I have a problem with Q3. Should I begin by replacing it? Any
suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I'm going to start the next stage while I await answers. I've got to try
and get caught up!! Thanks in advance.
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
|
1033|1033|2001-12-02 12:45:53|w6ki@yahoo.com|DB Mixer problems|After building the RF amp and DBM I powered it up and fed the IF
output into the antenna of my general coverage receiver set at
4.915mhz. There are some nice CW signals hiding in there, but I am
getting a lot of reception of local AM broadcast stations. I removed
the input to the RX input, the CW signals disappeared, but the AM
stations still there. I removed power to the RF amp. AM stations
still coming in strong.
I built another RF amp on a separate board. The ouput looks good on a
scope. When I hook this one up it behaves the same as the original.
I used a different DBM from a DC receiver I built some time ago and
tried that in place of the original. I still have the AM broadcast
band detection.
I stumped at this point. The VFO tunes from 2.085 to 2.192, the
output looks like a fair sinewave on a scope.
I've run these test with everything breadboarded with alligator clip
leads goint to and from antenna jacks and power. I live in SFO area,
so there are lots of strong local broadcast stations. I've built a
great AM radio front end. It's very selective and tunes well with the
VFO, but I don't need another AM radio.
The only thing I can think of now is to put the assembly into a
shielded box and give it another try.
I'll appreciate suggestions.
Glenn
|
1034|1032|2001-12-02 12:49:18|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Slow Progress - VFO Question|At 10:53 AM 12/2/01 -0500, Pat, KF4LMZ
wrote:
>Hello Gang,
>
>Work has been keeping me swamped. I work in the Emergency Management field
>& we have been VERY busy since Sept. 11. I have just completed the VFO.
>It appears to be working. I have a couple of questions:
>
>1.The tuning range is 2.085 - 2.176. Should I take a turn off L1, or leave
>it alone?
No, its just fine. A small tweak on TC3 to add a little bit
more capacitance should get you the full tuning range. If
TC3 is at its maximum capacitance, add a 4.7 or 10 pF NPO
capacitor across it and readjust it for the correct span.
>2. I took some transistor voltage readings. (I am building off the new
>schematics) Here is what I found:
> Q1 E 3.74 B 4.28 C 6.82
> Q2 E 2.60 B 3.07 C 13.84
> Q3 E 1.89 B 2.60 C 1.90
My guess is that the RF present on the collector of Q3 is
screwing up your reading. Short out inductor L1 and remeasure
Q1 through Q3 and see what they read. The first two won't change
much, as the RF levels are lower, but Q3 is running at about +10dBm
of output, so can really screw up the readings of a DMM.
> Q4 E 1.57 B 1.66 C 10.17
My guess is that Q4 is oscillating, just from the base and
emitter readings. You probably need to reverse the 1 turn
winding ends, and it will then stop oscillating, and
start amplifying.
> D5 6.82
> D6 .68
These are right on the money.
>Looks like I have a problem with Q3. Should I begin by replacing it?
No, I'd guess it is fine. See above.
> Any
>suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
These are mine. Anybody else got ideas to pass to Pat?
>
>
>I'm going to start the next stage while I await answers. I've got to try
>and get caught up!! Thanks in advance.
You bet. GL with the troubleshooting Pat.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
----------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Dennis my envelope is on the way! TKS!!
~ Steve/n0tu ~
----- Original Message -----
From: <wb0wao@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 10:28 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] For the "Newbies"...
> First of all WELCOME! You will have a blast building this great rig!
> I saw several posts about where to get the parts, etc. I have
> available D5 (1N4752A), D24 (1N4752A) and D27 (1N4744A) - I did the
> buy on the zeners for the original kits. Any of the new builders that
> need them send me a SASE to me at:
>
> Dennis Ponsness - WB0WAO
> 509 First Street
> Oscoda, MI 48750
>
> and I will send 'em to ya. No need to send any money or anything
> like that, I did a "lifetime buy" of those zeners :-) Enjoy building
> and CU on 40m soon!
>
> 72
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> No, its just fine. A small tweak on TC3 to add a little bit
> more capacitance should get you the full tuning range. If
> TC3 is at its maximum capacitance, add a 4.7 or 10 pF NPO
> capacitor across it and readjust it for the correct span.
Jim,
A TC3 question. I don't have room for my TC3, but I'd still like to have a
variable cap in there. I could solder it to the pads via 1.5 inch leads and
the have it dangle around or something. Would these leads be problem at
that length?
Thanks
Hi John. Keith here in the Depths of the Great Bergen Swamp.
Please put me down for a parts kit. I will have time over Xmas to get
back on the project.
73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Trustee of the NQ2RP/B 10 M beacon
President, Brockport Amateur Radio Klub (BARK),
Technical Coordinator, ARRL WNY Section
Ph - 585.494.1239
mailto:
wb2vuo@arrl.net ________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Hi Again John. I don't have the time today to get to a store that sells
MO's and we are waiting for new checks.
I am triple-wrapping $6 in cash for the parts. An address label is
enclosed.
Do you need anything else?
73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Trustee of the NQ2RP/B 10 M beacon
President, Brockport Amateur Radio Klub (BARK),
Technical Coordinator, ARRL WNY Section
Ph - 585.494.1239
mailto:
wb2vuo@arrl.net ________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.At 12:56 PM 12/2/01 -0500, Brian Murrey wrote:
>Jim,
>
>A TC3 question. I don't have room for my TC3, but I'd still like to have a
>variable cap in there. I could solder it to the pads via 1.5 inch leads and
>the have it dangle around or something. Would these leads be problem at
>that length?
No, not if they are good and stiff, so the capacitor can vibrate
too much. It's part of the tuning circuit, so mechanical
movement will show up in VFO instability. Leads made out of
#18 solid copper wire should be ok though.
72 and let us know how that works,
Jim, K8IQY
----------
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Hi Pat,
Patrick York wrote:
>
> Hello Gang,
>
> Work has been keeping me swamped. I work in the Emergency Management field
> & we have been VERY busy since Sept. 11. I have just completed the VFO.
> It appears to be working. I have a couple of questions:
>
> 1.The tuning range is 2.085 - 2.176. Should I take a turn off L1, or leave
> it alone?
I would leave it, you'll only be missing 7.091-7.100 - not much action
up there.
>
> 2. I took some transistor voltage readings. (I am building off the new
> schematics) Here is what I found:
> Q1 E 3.74 B 4.28 C 6.82
> Q2 E 2.60 B 3.07 C 13.84
> Q3 E 1.89 B 2.60 C 1.90
> Q4 E 1.57 B 1.66 C 10.17
> D5 6.82
> D6 .68
You sure you have the correct numbers for the transistors? There are
only 4 in the VFO. Q4 is over in the RF amp.
If you do, then I'd say you have a problem somewhere around Q3 - triple
check the parts layout before pulling it out and replacing.
73 de John, N1QO
>
> Looks like I have a problem with Q3. Should I begin by replacing it? Any
> suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> I'm going to start the next stage while I await answers. I've got to try
> and get caught up!! Thanks in advance.
>
> 72 de Pat KF4LMZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 05:45 PM 12/2/01 +0000, Glenn, W6KI wrote:
>After building the RF amp and DBM I powered it up and fed the IF
>output into the antenna of my general coverage receiver set at
>4.915mhz. There are some nice CW signals hiding in there, but I am
>getting a lot of reception of local AM broadcast stations. I removed
>the input to the RX input, the CW signals disappeared, but the AM
>stations still there. I removed power to the RF amp. AM stations
>still coming in strong.
Same kind of problem that Dennis reported. My first thought was
that the RF Amp is oscillating, but if you looked at the
output on a scope and it isn't oscillating, I'm at a bit of
a loss to tell you what it might be. One guess is that it is
the 2nd harmonic of the VFO. If that is true, it should be tuning
backwards. At the low VFO setting, you would be hearing 745 KHz,
and at the high end, 545 KHz. If that's what is really going on,
then getting the rig into a shielded environment so those
BC stations can't get into the exposed circuitry should fix
the problem.
>I built another RF amp on a separate board. The ouput looks good on a
>scope. When I hook this one up it behaves the same as the original.
>
>I used a different DBM from a DC receiver I built some time ago and
>tried that in place of the original. I still have the AM broadcast
>band detection.
>
>I stumped at this point. The VFO tunes from 2.085 to 2.192, the
>output looks like a fair sinewave on a scope.
>
>I've run these test with everything breadboarded with alligator clip
>leads goint to and from antenna jacks and power. I live in SFO area,
>so there are lots of strong local broadcast stations. I've built a
>great AM radio front end. It's very selective and tunes well with the
>VFO, but I don't need another AM radio.
>
>The only thing I can think of now is to put the assembly into a
>shielded box and give it another try.
I'd try that, but do it the easy way. Put the rig into a heavy
plastic bag, like a freezer bag to insulate it from the outside
world. Then wrap the whole assembly in aluminum foil to see
if that helps with the feedthrough problem. It might not make
it all go away, but at least we might be able to comfirm it
is the 2nd harmonic of the VFO that is causing the problem.
I have a 5 KW BC station about 8 miles away, and have never
heard it, even with the rig out of the case. But 50 KW next
door might be a totally different animal.
72 and let us know what you find with further experiments,
Jim, K8IQY
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> At 05:45 PM 12/2/01 +0000, Glenn, W6KI wrote:
>
> >After building the RF amp and DBM I powered it up and fed the IF
> >output into the antenna of my general coverage receiver set at
> >4.915mhz. There are some nice CW signals hiding in there, but I am
> >getting a lot of reception of local AM broadcast stations.
Jim Replied:
>
>...I'm at a bit of
> a loss to tell you what it might be. One guess is that it is
> the 2nd harmonic of the VFO. If that is true, it should be tuning
> backwards. At the low VFO setting, you would be hearing 745 KHz,
> and at the high end, 545 KHz. If that's what is really going on,
> then getting the rig into a shielded environment so those
> BC stations can't get into the exposed circuitry should fix
> the problem.
Thanks for the quick reply, Jim. I just checked and the AM broadcast
interference tunes as you describe above.
I'll try shielding it and I'll post the results later in the week.
As a side note on the RF amp, I had the same problems that others
have described with oscillations. When I first put it together and
tried feeding the ouput into my GC receiver, I really had some
strange output then! I don't have a scope at home so I take it into
work and hook it up to a 300 MHz TEK that is available. That is how I
troubleshot the problems with the RF amp.
My solution was to just run the one turn primary through the middle
of the toroid. There are no windings on the outside of the toroid at
all. I still seem to get good a good output. If my memory serves me I
was feeding the input to the tuned input with a 20 mv PP signal at
7.040 MHz, and the output was about 130 mv PP. Does that sound about
right?
Thanks again, Jim!
Where can they be found? This could rid me of all the
single mods I've collected over the last couple of
years!
2N2 activity night sounds like a winner. I believe CQ
2N2 makes most sense, it would be more identifiable,
albeit a bit more cumbersome to send. Pres could
probably use up the rest of the 2N2 certificates too!
Haven't seen one yet guys? They are a thing of
beauty.
72 all
Howard Kraus, K2UD
2N2/40 owner S/N 99001 + 99002
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping.
http://shopping.yahoo.comThe latest schematics are on the Yahoo! site for the group;
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40 in the photos section and I think
there is a PDF in the files section as well. You must be a Yahoo member
and of joined the group using that member ID to get at them.
73 de John, N1QO
Howard Kraus wrote:
>
> Where can they be found? This could rid me of all the
> single mods I've collected over the last couple of
> years!
>
> 2N2 activity night sounds like a winner. I believe CQ
> 2N2 makes most sense, it would be more identifiable,
> albeit a bit more cumbersome to send. Pres could
> probably use up the rest of the 2N2 certificates too!
> Haven't seen one yet guys? They are a thing of
> beauty.
>
> 72 all
>
> Howard Kraus, K2UD
> 2N2/40 owner S/N 99001 + 99002
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping.
> http://shopping.yahoo.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi Jim - thanks for the help...
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> >
> >Still quite thumpy, actually it blats on initial key down. It's so
> >thumpy that I can't work the rig with headphones as the initial blat
> >hurts the 'ol ears.
>
> One capacitor to try adding John is a 22uF on the Tx line.
> I've got mine sort of in the middle of the rig on the pad
> that all of the lines branch off to the various stages of
> the Tx section. That seems to help a lot.
Seemed to help a bit. Every little bit is incremental - pretty soon
it'll be perfect!
One thing I tried was using a 2n2222 to cut off power to the amplifier
when the Rx line went down. Didn't work though as the caps in the amp
must store up enough power to keep it going.
I also think that maybe the point to mute the circuit should be at the
point the xmit signal is injected into the recv chain, at point "A."
Don't know how to do it though.
> One other suggestion to try which just developed in trying
> to help one of the other builders with a low audio problem,
> is to add a pair of 1N34A diodes back-to-back on the drain
> lead of the 2N7000 to ground. That should remove all of
> the higher level audio artifacts that may still be making it
> through the system. Under normal receiving conditions, there
> won't be any where enough signal to make those conduct
> significantly.
Can you expand a little on what "back to back" means? Sorry, just
unclear.
73 de John, N1QO
>
> >I know enough to be dangerous and have been trying different things
> >suggested here with no real improvements. One fix that I think will work
> >for sure is a mechanical switch that just kills the power to the 2n7000.
> >I've used older rigs with this type of arrangement and for the most part
> >it's not that much of a problem to manually throw a switch to xmit. Sort
> >of defeats the elegance of QSK though.
>
> Sure does.......
>
> >WRT the RIT, I've replaced Q23 with a 2N7000. For some reason mine works
> >where Jim reports when he did it it didn't work at all! The problem is
> >that when I turn the RIT clockwise to increase the listening freq, the
> >xmit freq also increases a small fraction as well. The less clockwise,
> >the less the increase. This isn't a big deal in normal everyday
> >operation, but if I wanted to use the RIG as the QRP-L Fox I would
> >definitely need my xmit freq to stay pretty steady while I jerked the
> >RIT around. As it is, fully clockwise I listen up about 1.2Khz but xmit
> >up abt 20Hz from where I was.
>
> I'd say 20 Hz out of 1200 is darned good for an analog system. I
> don't think you are going to do any better than that. Which
> reminds me, I was going to order some of those really low
> Vce Sat transistors on my next Mouser order and completely forgot
> to do it. Nuts!!!!!
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS....missed getting you in the fox hunt the other evening, but
> did work YU1AAO and HA9RT/3 for 2 new DX stations with my
> 2N2/40. 569 and 559 reports respectively. Good Mojo!!
>
> >Jim had mentioned he was looking into fixes to help this but I'm
> >wondering if anyone else has made any mods here.
> >
> >Thanks all! 73,
> >
> >John, N1QO
> >--
> >John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> >Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
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--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim and group,
When I short L1, I still get the same readings on Q3. On Q4 (RF AMP), I
don't understand how to reverse the one turn winding. I just have a piece
of wire passing through the center of the torrid. Should I loop it around
the torrid to reverse it?
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
----------
> From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Slow Progress - VFO Question
> Date: Sunday, December 02, 2001 12:47 PM
>
> At 10:53 AM 12/2/01 -0500, Pat, KF4LMZ
> wrote:
>
> >Hello Gang,
> >
> >Work has been keeping me swamped. I work in the Emergency Management
field
> >& we have been VERY busy since Sept. 11. I have just completed the VFO.
> >It appears to be working. I have a couple of questions:
> >
> >1.The tuning range is 2.085 - 2.176. Should I take a turn off L1, or
leave
> >it alone?
>
> No, its just fine. A small tweak on TC3 to add a little bit
> more capacitance should get you the full tuning range. If
> TC3 is at its maximum capacitance, add a 4.7 or 10 pF NPO
> capacitor across it and readjust it for the correct span.
>
>
> >2. I took some transistor voltage readings. (I am building off the new
> >schematics) Here is what I found:
> > Q1 E 3.74 B 4.28 C 6.82
> > Q2 E 2.60 B 3.07 C 13.84
> > Q3 E 1.89 B 2.60 C 1.90
>
> My guess is that the RF present on the collector of Q3 is
> screwing up your reading. Short out inductor L1 and remeasure
> Q1 through Q3 and see what they read. The first two won't change
> much, as the RF levels are lower, but Q3 is running at about +10dBm
> of output, so can really screw up the readings of a DMM.
>
> > Q4 E 1.57 B 1.66 C 10.17
>
> My guess is that Q4 is oscillating, just from the base and
> emitter readings. You probably need to reverse the 1 turn
> winding ends, and it will then stop oscillating, and
> start amplifying.
>
> > D5 6.82
> > D6 .68
>
> These are right on the money.
>
>
> >Looks like I have a problem with Q3. Should I begin by replacing it?
>
> No, I'd guess it is fine. See above.
>
> > Any
> >suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> These are mine. Anybody else got ideas to pass to Pat?
> >
> >
> >I'm going to start the next stage while I await answers. I've got to
try
> >and get caught up!! Thanks in advance.
>
> You bet. GL with the troubleshooting Pat.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> ----------
>
>
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>
At 05:09 PM 12/2/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>Hi Jim - thanks for the help...
>
-snip-
>Can you expand a little on what "back to back" means? Sorry, just
>unclear.
Oh, one with the anode to ground, the other with the cathode
to ground. You know, back to back! :-) Tells you how long
I've bending wires and chasing electrons I think.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
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At 05:22 PM 12/2/01 -0500, Pat, KF4LMZ wrote:
>Jim and group,
>
>When I short L1, I still get the same readings on Q3.
Hmmmmm, something not right there then. check the wiring of
the Q3 stage again. It probably isn't correct, or the transistor
is bad.
> On Q4 (RF AMP), I
>don't understand how to reverse the one turn winding. I just have a piece
>of wire passing through the center of the torrid. Should I loop it around
>the torrid to reverse it?
No, it doesn't have to do anything but go through the center
area of the toroid. However, if it is currently coming from
the C17 connection, and going from the top of the toroid
down through the center hole to the emitter of Q4,
disconnect the Q4 emitter end, and reroute it so that is
entering from the bottom, and coming out the top, and then
to the emitter. If the toroid is standing up, make the word
"top" be "left", and "bottom" be "right". That will reverse
the phasing of that single turn. Correctly phased, you have
an amplifier, incorrectly phased, you have an oscillator.
I'd guess you have the later at the moment.
Once that is fixed, maybe Q3 will start acting OK too. It
may be oscillations from the RF Amp are getting through the
DBM and messing up the readings on Q3.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
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At 08:05 PM 12/2/01 +0000, Glenn, W6KI wrote:
>-snip-
>My solution was to just run the one turn primary through the middle
>of the toroid. There are no windings on the outside of the toroid at
>all.
Yes, that's the way that 1 turn should be, but it is important
which way it comes in to and out of the toroid. See my earlier
post to Pat about correctly phasing that 1 turn.
>I still seem to get good a good output. If my memory serves me I
>was feeding the input to the tuned input with a 20 mv PP signal at
>7.040 MHz, and the output was about 130 mv PP. Does that sound about
>right?
A bit on the high side. That ratio is about 16 dB, and the
amplifier should be producing 12 dB with the turns ratio
that I picked for T6. However, somewhat small errors in
measuring the input and output voltages get exagerated in
doing the dB calculations, as both terms are squared.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
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Hi 2N2 Gang!
Well, on Friday night I started the VFO. Got the beginners jitters
out of the way and feelin pretty good. Finished the VFO on
Saturday. Everything checked out ok! The VFO covered 2.085 to about
2.175. Could hear it on a receiver. Jim's voltages checked out ok.
Sketched out section #3 and started.
The Front End went together pretty well, I think. I'm trying to get
better at spreading stuff out a little. Wasn't sure how to tell
which side of the LED was the Cathode... there wasn't a flat side on
the plastic case. On the inside of D8 I could see that one side had
a longer horizontal metal piece, I "guessed" that that side was the
Cathode. Finished, and powered it up and D8 lit up nicely. (guess
it was in correctly?) No smoke or sparks or anything!
Ok, now to test it. Now I get confused :( I'm trying to follow the
hook up instructions in the Winter 1998 book. Trying to figure out
where each junction is on the new schematic. Hooked it up the way I
thought it went and here is what I find.
I can hear the VFO and find the midpoint... 2.135. Tuned the
receiver to 4.915, tuned the K1 to 7.050, set the power down to 1
watt, keyed it up, tuned receiver down to about 4.914 and there was a
nice carrier!! Happy! Tried tweaking TC1 & TC2... no change in the
carrier! Tried moving Pot 1 and the carrier stayed put on the
general receiver. Started thinking I had the Rx ant (wire) in wrong
place. Started moving the output wire from the VFO, the coax to the
1000 MP etc... I am confused and before I mess up my work, I shut it
down for the night.
If possible, could someone the me the proper junction for each of
the "hook ups" for the testing. Also where is the connection from
the VFO to section #3. Where is "Pot 5 High? Where do I wire the
switch for the RF amp?
Going to start drawing the next section. Want to get this baby
together to participate in "THE 2N2 RENDEZVOUS"!
Your help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Tom Little
N0DSP
|
1051|1032|2001-12-02 21:31:09|Jake Carter, N4UY|Re: Slow Progress - VFO Question|Pat -- KF4LMZ:
When I first built that toroid I had the one-turn wire going from C17
straight through the toroid to Q4 -- kind of like an arrow going
straight through the bull's eye. That didn't work. So I rerouted
the wire from C17 to the outside of the toroid, around the back and
then through the toroid from the other side, then back outside the
toroid again and over to Q4 -- kind of like the arrow flying past the
target and then, realizing it missed, reversing course and flying
through the bull's eye from the back of the target and heading
straight for the archer, and then turning around again and heading to
Q4 :-) . That worked.
Please excuse the "Robin Hood" analogy, but that's how I pictured it.
I've done no work on my 2N2-40 since I completed the receiver -- I
listened to it this past week as I messed around with my Tuna Tin
VXO. I'm reluctant to mess with a radio that works well -- and I'm
afraid I might screw something up as I try to solder those toroids
into the middle of the board :-)
Good Luck and 73,
Jake -- N4UY
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Patrick York" wrote:
> Jim and group,
>
> When I short L1, I still get the same readings on Q3. On Q4 (RF
AMP), I
> don't understand how to reverse the one turn winding. I just have
a piece
> of wire passing through the center of the torrid. Should I loop it
around
> the torrid to reverse it?
>
> 72 de Pat KF4LMZ
>
Jim,
Thanks for your patience. I replaced Q3. I have double, no make that
triple checked the wiring. There must be a mistake there somewhere, but I
don't see it.
I still have the same readings on Q3.
Now, about the one turn phasing on T6. Let me see if I can explain my
layout. There is a pad with one end of C17. There is another pad with the
Emitter of Q4 and one end of L2. The torrid (T6) is between the two pads.
If you were standing on one pad, you could look through the center of the
torrid and see the other pad. The one turn goes from the pad with C17
straight through the center of the torrid to the pad with the Emitter of
Q4. Does that make sense? I still don't see how I could change the
phasing. Sorry I am so slow to understand. I really want to make this
thing work!!
C17
[
[[[[[T6]]]]]] View from
top
]
Q4E
Thanks again!!
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
> From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Slow Progress - VFO Question
> Date: Sunday, December 02, 2001 8:26 PM
>
> At 05:22 PM 12/2/01 -0500, Pat, KF4LMZ wrote:
>
> >Jim and group,
> >
> >When I short L1, I still get the same readings on Q3.
>
> Hmmmmm, something not right there then. check the wiring of
> the Q3 stage again. It probably isn't correct, or the transistor
> is bad.
>
> > On Q4 (RF AMP), I
> >don't understand how to reverse the one turn winding. I just have a
piece
> >of wire passing through the center of the torrid. Should I loop it
around
> >the torrid to reverse it?
>
> No, it doesn't have to do anything but go through the center
> area of the toroid. However, if it is currently coming from
> the C17 connection, and going from the top of the toroid
> down through the center hole to the emitter of Q4,
> disconnect the Q4 emitter end, and reroute it so that is
> entering from the bottom, and coming out the top, and then
> to the emitter. If the toroid is standing up, make the word
> "top" be "left", and "bottom" be "right". That will reverse
> the phasing of that single turn. Correctly phased, you have
> an amplifier, incorrectly phased, you have an oscillator.
> I'd guess you have the later at the moment.
>
> Once that is fixed, maybe Q3 will start acting OK too. It
> may be oscillations from the RF Amp are getting through the
> DBM and messing up the readings on Q3.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> ----------
>
>
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>
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 05:45 PM 12/2/01 +0000, Glenn, W6KI wrote:
>
> >After building the RF amp and DBM I powered it up and fed the IF
> >output into the antenna of my general coverage receiver set at
> >4.915mhz. There are some nice CW signals hiding in there, but I am
> >getting a lot of reception of local AM broadcast stations. I
removed
> >the input to the RX input, the CW signals disappeared, but the AM
> >stations still there. I removed power to the RF amp. AM stations
> >still coming in strong.
>
> Same kind of problem that Dennis reported. My first thought was
> that the RF Amp is oscillating, but if you looked at the
> output on a scope and it isn't oscillating, I'm at a bit of
> a loss to tell you what it might be. One guess is that it is
> the 2nd harmonic of the VFO. If that is true, it should be tuning
> backwards. At the low VFO setting, you would be hearing 745 KHz,
> and at the high end, 545 KHz. If that's what is really going on,
> then getting the rig into a shielded environment so those
> BC stations can't get into the exposed circuitry should fix
> the problem.
>
Mine was SW broadcasters around 12MHz. I surmised that the VFO was
interacting with the R-2000 IF and causing the interference. As soon
as I got Sequence IV done with the filter and amps, the problem went
away. Go figure....
72 es GUD Building!
Dennis - WB0WAOJim es Group,
I got the RX done yesterday but need to troubleshoot. No sound or
sigs!!! I will check the voltages on the transistors, check out the
layout, and check out the toroid in the SBM (my weakness, hi hi). Got
a couple of questions tho...
1. Cap across primary on T10 is shown as a .082mF - don't have any of
them, will a .1mF work? If not, will an "orange drop" .082mF cap
work?
2. The schematic shows that the speaker output is "ungrounded", i.e.
neither lead goes to ground. The jacks that I have on the front and
rear panels (one for 'phones, one for speaker) indicate with my meter
that the sleeve contact is grounded to the board, even with no wires
connected to the secondary of T10 (most likely from the 12v DC input
jack). Do I need to "insulate" the speaker jacks from ground? Is this
a problem and possibly why I dont hear anything?
Hope to get it working before Tuesday nite, I hope I can use the 2N2
as a receiver for the Truffle Hunt and use the SW-40+ as the TX!
72 es meltin' solder!
Dennis
|
1055|1032|2001-12-03 08:10:26|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Slow Progress - VFO Question|At 10:21 PM 12/2/01 -0500, Pat, KF4LMZ wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Thanks for your patience. I replaced Q3. I have double, no make that
>triple checked the wiring. There must be a mistake there somewhere, but I
>don't see it.
>I still have the same readings on Q3.
OK, lets leave that alone until we are sure the RF Amp is working
correctly.
>
>Now, about the one turn phasing on T6. Let me see if I can explain my
>layout. There is a pad with one end of C17. There is another pad with the
>Emitter of Q4 and one end of L2. The torrid (T6) is between the two pads.
>If you were standing on one pad, you could look through the center of the
>torrid and see the other pad. The one turn goes from the pad with C17
>straight through the center of the torrid to the pad with the Emitter of
>Q4. Does that make sense?
Yes, I understand completely what you have.
> I still don't see how I could change the
>phasing. Sorry I am so slow to understand.
Not a problem Pat. Most of the builders are new to all of this
stuff, so don't worry about it. If we take your arrangement
of the wire getting from the C17 pad to the emitter pad, let's
assume that is phasing condition 1. What I'd like you to do now
is unsolder that wire and remove it completely. Take a new piece of
wire and solder it to the C17 pad. Take the free end and go under
the toroid, back up through the center of the core, back down
under the core, and then solder that end to the emitter pad. The
1 turn winding is now phased 180 degrees from what you currently
have it. Think of it this way. If you could wrap your right hand
fingers around the wire, your thumb would be directed from the
C17 pad to the Q4 emitter pad. By changing the routing as above,
doing the same thing will have your thumb pointing from the Q4
emitter pad to the C17 pad.
> I really want to make this
>thing work!!
Me too!! :-)
>
> C17
> [
> [[[[[T6]]]]]] View from
>top
> ]
> Q4E
Good diagram. I don't think I can draw one using ASCII characters
showing the wire going from C17 under the core, back through the
center, and then under again to get to Q4E. That wiring will
indeed change the 1 turn phasing though, and I'll bet make the
amplifier stable.
72 and let us know hat happens,
Jim, K8IQY
----------
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim and Gang,
Well the good news is that the RX receives and hears EVERY signal that the R-2000 hears - using the same antenna of course! Man the feeling was awesome when I first heard the CW coming out of the speaker on a radio that I built. Woooo Hoooo!!
The not so good news is that the Audio Amp is not "pumping up the volume"! I have to have it cranked ALL the way up to hear the signal and it is not very loud at all. Both using a speaker and using headphones - same problem. Here are the voltages I get:
D G S
Q13 0.0 6.54 0.0
E B C
Q9 3.07 3.73 5.03
Q10 3.07 3.73 5.11
Q11 4.35 5.03 13.56
Q12 4.44 5.11 13.56
I was surprised by the low collector voltage on Q9! I did check to see that all parts were in their proper place and of the right type. The only deviation is the .1uF cap (C37) across the primary of T10. I am quite ignorant of audio stuff (but I won't be for long..hi hi) so could this be the problem? I do have some .082uF caps coming, but could their be another problem as well?
72 es really pumped up now!
Dennis
|
1057|1056|2001-12-03 13:15:50|John Wagner|Re: Good News/Not So Good News..|I seem to recall Jim mentioning that the cap across T10 didn't matter.
The audio amp is fairly straightforward, but I managed to wire mine up
incorrectly the first time. I don't have my radio handy so I can't
compare your voltages. Only suggestion I can make at the moment is to
check it again and then once more. ;)
73 de John, N1QO
wb0wao@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Jim and Gang,
> Well the good news is that the RX receives and hears EVERY signal that the R-2000 hears - using the same antenna of course! Man the feeling was awesome when I first heard the CW coming out of the speaker on a radio that I built. Woooo Hoooo!!
> The not so good news is that the Audio Amp is not "pumping up the volume"! I have to have it cranked ALL the way up to hear the signal and it is not very loud at all. Both using a speaker and using headphones - same problem. Here are the voltages I get:
>
> D G S
> Q13 0.0 6.54 0.0
>
> E B C
> Q9 3.07 3.73 5.03
> Q10 3.07 3.73 5.11
> Q11 4.35 5.03 13.56
> Q12 4.44 5.11 13.56
>
> I was surprised by the low collector voltage on Q9! I did check to see that all parts were in their proper place and of the right type. The only deviation is the .1uF cap (C37) across the primary of T10. I am quite ignorant of audio stuff (but I won't be for long..hi hi) so could this be the problem? I do have some .082uF caps coming, but could their be another problem as well?
>
> 72 es really pumped up now!
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comwb0wao@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Jim es Group,
> 2. The schematic shows that the speaker output is "ungrounded", i.e.
> neither lead goes to ground. The jacks that I have on the front and
I asked this myself; answer was that it's OK to ground one end, which I
did in the manner you mentioned.
73 de John, N1QO
> rear panels (one for 'phones, one for speaker) indicate with my meter
> that the sleeve contact is grounded to the board, even with no wires
> connected to the secondary of T10 (most likely from the 12v DC input
> jack). Do I need to "insulate" the speaker jacks from ground? Is this
> a problem and possibly why I dont hear anything?
>
> Hope to get it working before Tuesday nite, I hope I can use the 2N2
> as a receiver for the Truffle Hunt and use the SW-40+ as the TX!
>
> 72 es meltin' solder!
>
> Dennis
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com |
1059|1056|2001-12-03 14:08:52|Tom Dufresne|Re: Good News/Not So Good News..|Good suggestions...Also make sure your RCVR mute circuit is functioning
properly. You MAY be muted!! I belive the circuit needs to have power up to
work appropriately, otherwise it is in the "send" mode, or "mute" mode...
Right Jim?
Tom
KC0GXX
>From: John Wagner <john@wagner-usa.net>
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Good News/Not So Good News..
>Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 13:18:34 -0500
>
>I seem to recall Jim mentioning that the cap across T10 didn't matter.
>
>The audio amp is fairly straightforward, but I managed to wire mine up
>incorrectly the first time. I don't have my radio handy so I can't
>compare your voltages. Only suggestion I can make at the moment is to
>check it again and then once more. ;)
>
>73 de John, N1QO
>
>wb0wao@yahoo.com wrote:
> >
> > Jim and Gang,
> > Well the good news is that the RX receives and hears EVERY signal
>that the R-2000 hears - using the same antenna of course! Man the feeling
>was awesome when I first heard the CW coming out of the speaker on a radio
>that I built. Woooo Hoooo!!
> > The not so good news is that the Audio Amp is not "pumping up the
>volume"! I have to have it cranked ALL the way up to hear the signal and
>it is not very loud at all. Both using a speaker and using headphones -
>same problem. Here are the voltages I get:
> >
> > D G S
> > Q13 0.0 6.54 0.0
> >
> > E B C
> > Q9 3.07 3.73 5.03
> > Q10 3.07 3.73 5.11
> > Q11 4.35 5.03 13.56
> > Q12 4.44 5.11 13.56
> >
> > I was surprised by the low collector voltage on Q9! I did check to see
>that all parts were in their proper place and of the right type. The only
>deviation is the .1uF cap (C37) across the primary of T10. I am quite
>ignorant of audio stuff (but I won't be for long..hi hi) so could this be
>the problem? I do have some .082uF caps coming, but could their be another
>problem as well?
> >
> > 72 es really pumped up now!
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>--
>John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
>Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspDennis and gang,
After doing a bunch of mods, I had a very similar if not the very same
hearing problem with #16. The first time it occured was after
switching the outputs on the product detector but before installing
the additional 2 diodes. Weak audio and POT3 at full bore. After
installing the diodes, hearing was restored. Then I did some more mods
and the rig went deaf again. Poking arround to check all wiring
including transformer leads, hearing was once again restored
serendipitously. Go figure. Anyway, my conclusion is that if things
aren't quite right in the product detector, hearing can go south.
Hope this helps.
72,
Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., wb0wao@y... wrote:
> Jim and Gang,
> Well the good news is that the RX receives and hears EVERY signal
that the R-2000 hears - using the same antenna of course! Man the
feeling was awesome when I first heard the CW coming out of the
speaker on a radio that I built. Woooo Hoooo!!
> The not so good news is that the Audio Amp is not "pumping up the
volume"! I have to have it cranked ALL the way up to hear the signal
and it is not very loud at all. Both using a speaker and using
headphones - same problem. Here are the voltages I get:
>
> D G S
> Q13 0.0 6.54 0.0
>
> E B C
> Q9 3.07 3.73 5.03
> Q10 3.07 3.73 5.11
> Q11 4.35 5.03 13.56
> Q12 4.44 5.11 13.56
>
> I was surprised by the low collector voltage on Q9! I did check to
see that all parts were in their proper place and of the right type.
The only deviation is the .1uF cap (C37) across the primary of T10. I
am quite ignorant of audio stuff (but I won't be for long..hi hi) so
could this be the problem? I do have some .082uF caps coming, but
could their be another problem as well?
>
> 72 es really pumped up now!
>
> Dennis
At 08:03 PM 12/1/01 -0600, James, KC5HAC wrote:
>Hello again! Looks like its time to ask for help as the last time I was
>pointed in the right direction to fix the problem. I have been going
>over my work with the voltage chart on the 2n2/40+ diagram. This did
>help me find a couple of small errors that I have corrected but still
>seem to have a few that I can not seem to locate. These voltage
>measurements were taken using a battery putting out 12.25 volts.
>
>Q5 : E= 40.5 mv B= .667 V C= 12.25 V
>
>Q6 : E= .253 V B= .913 V C= 6.36 V
>
>Q7 : E= 5.69 V B= 6.36 V C= 11.81 V
>
>Q8 : E= 4.22 V B= 3.98 V C= 10.15 V
With the battery you are using, all of the above voltages are
quite reasonable. I'm not sure what you think is the problem.
They won't be exactly the voltages that I put on the schematic,
as mine was running off a power supply that way putting out
at least 13.8 volts, and may have been 13.9 volts. With
the tolerance of the resistors etc. used in the 2N2/40 circuitry,
what you have is well withing expectation, and the radio should
work fine at these voltages.
Other than these voltages being a different from those on the schematic,
are there any other problems you are having?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 11:32 PM 12/1/01 -0600, Craig, AAØZZ wrote:
>Hi 2N2-40 Gang,
>
>I have been reading the messages in this group and ready to start building
>my 2N2-40 again.
>
>My first task was to collect the schematics and decide on the version and
>features I wanted to use. I decided I wanted the Variable Bandwidth Filter,
>and no RIT. Then I decided I wanted it to be the use ONLY 2N2222
>transistors, so I went back to Jim's modified (not original) mute circuit
>which uses a 2N2222. I realize the new version with the 2N7000 is better,
>but I really want to stick with the original "ground rules" for mine.
>
>-snip-
>These three files are now posted in the files section.
>
>Now, obviously, I have to build it to make sure there are no errors. In
>the mean
>time, if anyone finds errors, please post them so we all will know.
>
>73,
>Craig, AAØZZ
Craig,
Many thanks from me and all of the 2N2/40 builders for your
contribution to this effort. Well above and beyond the call
of duty, and will be most helpful to many. I am anxious
to see how your rig comes out, with just having completed
your SW-30.
72 and many thanks again,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 02:26 AM 12/3/01 +0000, Tom Little, N0DSP wrote:
>Hi 2N2 Gang!
>
>Well, on Friday night I started the VFO. Got the beginners jitters
>out of the way and feelin pretty good. Finished the VFO on
>Saturday. Everything checked out ok! The VFO covered 2.085 to about
>2.175. Could hear it on a receiver. Jim's voltages checked out ok.
>Sketched out section #3 and started.
This sounds like a good start!! :-)
>The Front End went together pretty well, I think. I'm trying to get
>better at spreading stuff out a little. Wasn't sure how to tell
>which side of the LED was the Cathode... there wasn't a flat side on
>the plastic case. On the inside of D8 I could see that one side had
>a longer horizontal metal piece, I "guessed" that that side was the
>Cathode. Finished, and powered it up and D8 lit up nicely. (guess
>it was in correctly?) No smoke or sparks or anything!
OK....still sounding good.
>Ok, now to test it. Now I get confused :( I'm trying to follow the
>hook up instructions in the Winter 1998 book. Trying to figure out
>where each junction is on the new schematic. Hooked it up the way I
>thought it went and here is what I find.
That's a bit confusing using that reference with a rig that has some
major changes to the stages, that aren't in the reprint. You didn't
say whether or not you built the DBM, or do you only have the
VFO and front-end done up through the new RF Amplifier. If you
don't have the DBM built, and the VFO connected to it, the only
real test you can perform is to check the range of the VFO. Using
a second receiver for an IF amplifier won't work, as there isn't
any IF signal until the DBM is done.
>I can hear the VFO and find the midpoint... 2.135. Tuned the
>receiver to 4.915, tuned the K1 to 7.050, set the power down to 1
>watt, keyed it up, tuned receiver down to about 4.914 and there was a
>nice carrier!! Happy!
I guess I'm not sure where that is coming from. It doesn't sound like
the IF signal if it won't move with changing POT1 and won't peak
when the front-end trimmers are changed.
> Tried tweaking TC1 & TC2... no change in the
>carrier! Tried moving Pot 1 and the carrier stayed put on the
>general receiver. Started thinking I had the Rx ant (wire) in wrong
>place. Started moving the output wire from the VFO, the coax to the
>1000 MP etc... I am confused and before I mess up my work, I shut it
>down for the night.
Always a good move when things don't make sense.
>If possible, could someone the me the proper junction for each of
>the "hook ups" for the testing.
I can work on that, but it will take a bit of time to translate
the reprint words into what is required to the latest schematics.
> Also where is the connection from
>the VFO to section #3.
The output of the VFO is on pin 4 of T5, and drives the DBM on
pin 1 of T4. The output of the DBM, the IF of the rig, comes from
pins 4 and 5 of T4, and is labelled "C" on the schematic. This would
be the output to another receiver set for 4.915/6 MHz to listen
for 40 meters when the front-end is all done and working.
> Where is "Pot 5 High?
That's the hot, or ungrounded side of the RF gain pot. Shown
on schematic 4 I believe.
> Where do I wire the
>switch for the RF amp?
There is no switch with this version of the RF Amp. It only runs
at one gain.
Hope I've helped and not confused you more, but I'm still not
sure you have enough of the front-end done to test it. That's
what I need to know.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
TNX Tom and Arth!
Good ideas and I tried them and it is putting out audio a bit more now! Checked the RX Mute by jumpering across R40 and no change in audio level (which means it is OK). Then I took the "big iron" (35w) and redid the ground connections and the SBM toroid connections and that brought the audio up some. Still not "room filling, but it is at a "useable" level for me! I remembered a "trick" to see if it was a SBM problem or not (at least I think that is what it was for...hi hi). I touched one of my probes to the lead of R40 to get that "hash" that occurs in an audio amp circuit - I think you know what I mean. Anyway, the audio level of the "hash" is on par with the received signals, so I THINK the SBM is OK. I may replace Q9 tomorrow (the one wth the low collector voltage) and see if that helps some. Worked all nite and havent been to bed yet, so I will wait and start fresh in the morning!
BTW, the VBW works great and wow is the rig sensitive! Had to crank the RF Gain almost all the way down on W1AW! It was overloading the RX! Tuned off them about 2 kHz and played with the VBW then - took 'em right out!!! WOWOWOWOWOW!!!! Jim did a superb job in designing this rig, TNX a million!!! Anyhow, gonna tune around and listen to all the CW and the VE SSB stations on 40m and I will use it tomorrow nite as the RX with the SW-40+ as TX for the FP Truffle Hunt!
72 es TNX AGN
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1065|1056|2001-12-03 18:25:45|wb0wao@yahoo.com|Re: Good News/Not So Good News..|TNX Tom and Arth!
Good ideas and I tried them and it is putting out audio a bit more now! Checked the RX Mute by jumpering across R40 and no change in audio level (which means it is OK). Then I took the "big iron" (35w) and redid the ground connections and the SBM toroid connections and that brought the audio up some. Still not "room filling, but it is at a "useable" level for me! I remembered a "trick" to see if it was a SBM problem or not (at least I think that is what it was for...hi hi). I touched one of my probes to the lead of R40 to get that "hash" that occurs in an audio amp circuit - I think you know what I mean. Anyway, the audio level of the "hash" is on par with the received signals, so I THINK the SBM is OK. I may replace Q9 tomorrow (the one wth the low collector voltage) and see if that helps some. Worked all nite and havent been to bed yet, so I will wait and start fresh in the morning!
BTW, the VBW works great and wow is the rig sensitive! Had to crank the RF Gain almost all the way down on W1AW! It was overloading the RX! Tuned off them about 2 kHz and played with the VBW then - took 'em right out!!! WOWOWOWOWOW!!!! Jim did a superb job in designing this rig, TNX a million!!! Anyhow, gonna tune around and listen to all the CW and the VE SSB stations on 40m and I will use it tomorrow nite as the RX with the SW-40+ as TX for the FP Truffle Hunt!
72 es TNX AGN
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1066|1066|2001-12-03 19:20:43|wb0wao@yahoo.com|Oh is my face red!!!|Jim es Group,
This months winner of the "DUHHH" award goes to.... ME!!! It is amazing what the PROPER adjustment of TC5 will do to the audio level. The rig is pumping out audio like mad, sigs are 599 and boy am I embarassed! A thousand pardons for the excessive bandwith here. Now, it is time to hide under the desk 'till sunrise!
72
Dennis- WB0WAO
|
1067|1067|2001-12-03 20:48:38|Patrick York|VFO Works!!|Hello Gang,
YEEEESSSSSSS!!!! My VFO and Receiver Front End works!! Thanks to all the
help from Jim (K8IQY) and several others on the list, I found the problem.
I changed the phase (I FINALLY figured that out) of the one turn on T6.
After doing that, I checked my voltages on Q3....still the same. I once
again checked my parts placement....everything looked ok. Still looking
for the problem, I eventually found that I had lifted pin 2 of T5 when I
added the wire link!! I soldered pin 2 (T5) back down and all of my
voltages on Q3 were correct!! I am able to hear the signal I transmit
into a dummy load on 7.050 in my receiver. Tuning the VFO, I can hear CW
and digital (RTTY) signals on 40M. Thanks again to everyone who helped me
troubleshoot this section...Now on to the IF!!
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
|
1068|1050|2001-12-03 21:08:11|Tom Little|Re: Difficulty testing "Front End"|Hi Jim,
Thanks for taking to time to respond to my questions! I know you are very
busy these days! :)
I have completed everything on page 1 of your new schematic. VFO, RX Input
filter, RF AMP and DB Mixer. Also Rx Tx Driver and Rx T/R Switch from page
4. I attached Pot 5 (1K) with the wiper to T1 lead #1, One side to ground
and the other side (high?) to the end of L11 away from the diodes. My L11
is color coded Brown, Red, Black, Silver.
After hooking up for the test and hearing the tone around 4.914 I thought
all was ok. This carrier was about S9 + 5db. When it didn't change with
the trimmers, I adjusted pot 1 but the carrier stayed put. I thought that
maybe this carrier I was hearing was actually being generated by the K1 and
not the 2N2. So I tuned the Yaesu (receiver) to about 4.916, keyed the K1,
and swept back and forth with Pot 1 on my baby. (getting kind of close with
the new rig). Didn't hear it "go by". If I remember right, one time I did
find it but it was very weak and didn't change with the trimmers, but I
think it did move with Pot 1. Couldn't find it again. Reset everything,
keyed the K1, tuned the receiver to each carrier I could find, then went
over and powered OFF the 2N2... none of the carriers went away.
For the test, initially I started with the output of the VFO pin 4 of T5
going to pin 1 of T4. Pins 4&5 of T4 is where I connected the center
conductor of the coax fed directly into the receiver. WOW that means I DID
read the schematic right!!! :)
So there is some more info for you. As far as "hope I've helped and not
confused you more" Each of your posts helps me. I am very thankful for
them and I appreciate the time that you take for ALL of us!!!
Let me know if I can answer any additional questions to help us sort it out.
I will try to take some pictures soon. I know that helps sometimes.
I am so excited to be building this rig. When it is done, I know I can
build almost anything!
Thanks!
Tom
N0DSP
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 05:30 PM 12/3/01 +0000, Dennis, WB0WAO wrote:
>-snip-
> The not so good news is that the Audio Amp is not "pumping up the
> volume"! I have to have it cranked ALL the way up to hear the signal and
> it is not very loud at all. Both using a speaker and using headphones -
> same problem. Here are the voltages I get:
>
> D G S
>Q13 0.0 6.54 0.0
>
> E B C
>Q9 3.07 3.73 5.03
>Q10 3.07 3.73 5.11
>Q11 4.35 5.03 13.56
>Q12 4.44 5.11 13.56
These all look "right on the money".
>I was surprised by the low collector voltage on Q9! I did check to see
>that all parts were in their proper place and of the right type.
It's low on Q9 and Q10 because that's the way it's designed. The base
voltages on Q11 and Q12 are also the collector voltages on Q9 and Q10.
DC coupling of the audio too!! :-)
> The only deviation is the .1uF cap (C37) across the primary of T10. I
> am quite ignorant of audio stuff (but I won't be for long..hi hi) so
> could this be the problem?
No, that value is probably fine.
> I do have some .082uF caps coming, but could their be another problem as
> well?
Maybe, lots of possiblities exist, including not having the receive
LO oscillator set correctly, and basically losing all of the audio.
That LO has to be 600-800 Hz BELOW the center of the filter passband,
which is somewhere aroung 4.916 MHz, a tad above the marked frequency
on the crystals in the filter. BTW, remember this receiver uses the
filter as an upper sideband filter, so the receive LO has to be below
the center of the filter passband.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 07:08 PM 12/3/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Good suggestions...Also make sure your RCVR mute circuit is functioning
>properly. You MAY be muted!! I belive the circuit needs to have power up to
>work appropriately, otherwise it is in the "send" mode, or "mute" mode...
>Right Jim?
>Tom
>KC0GXX
Tom is correct. There has to be Rx Mute applied to the gate of
the 2N7000 for the audio to pass from the product detector on to
the audio amplifier. Otherwise, the audio is passing through
resistor R40, and if that is a 2.2 M, not much of it will make
it to the audio amp.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 11:19 PM 12/3/01 +0000, Dennis, WB0WAO wrote:
>-snip-
> Anyhow, gonna tune around and listen to all the CW and the VE SSB
> stations on 40m
If you can copy the VE SSB stations ok, you have the receive LO
set incorrectly. For that to happen, it would have to be 600-800
Hz higher than the center of the filter passband. The rig is
designed to operate the filter in the upper sideband mode, so
you shouldn't be able to copy those VE SSB guys. I did that because
as the VBW filter is narrowed, the upper filter slope moves toward
the lower one. If the LO is on the upper slope, and the slope
moves as the filter is narrowed, then you have to retune the
receiver. If you set it up with the LO on the lower filter
slope, you can vary the filter all over the place, and the
tuning doesn't have to change. Trying to copy a VE SSB station
is a good test of the correct adjustment of the receive LO.
If you can't tune them in correctly, you've got it right.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Dennis:
no worries, as an official "newbie" I can say have done those kind of things
and much worse!
Good luck on the rig, wait 'till you really get 'er going. It's really a joy
to operate.... I have made about 20 contacts and each one is amazed when I
tell them "HMBRU AT 2W"
Its great!
Tom
|
1073|1067|2001-12-03 22:11:19|TC Dufresne|Re: VFO Works!!|Pat:
Rock on dude! It is a lot of fun, n'est pas?
Good luck with the rest of the rig. You'll have us all waiting for your
reports...
OK everyoine, lets go!!
Tom
|
1074|1066|2001-12-03 22:16:20|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Oh is my face red!!!|At 12:20 AM 12/4/01 +0000, Dennis- WB0WAO wrote:
>Jim es Group,
> This months winner of the "DUHHH" award goes to.... ME!!! It is
> amazing what the PROPER adjustment of TC5 will do to the audio
> level. The rig is pumping out audio like mad, sigs are 599 and boy am I
> embarassed!
No need to be, that's how we learn.
PAT ATTENTION EVERYBODY, DENNIS JUST LEARNED A VALUABLE LESSON.
He wasn't getting very much audio
because he had the receive local oscillator adjusted waaaay too far
down the lower crystal filter passband slope, or maybe he was waaaay
far down on the upper slope. Either way, you won't get much audio out
of the rig if you set the LO in the wrong place. I'll create a
drawing tomorrow showing the right location, and the wrong
location for the receive LO. Maybe that will help others later
on. I'll also reprint the LO alignment procedure from the QRPp
article. If you follow that, you'll have it right on the money.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
All,
I finished the receive mixer and was able to get to a test tonight.
Was getting a very strong 2.xx signal on the center tap of the mixer
balanced transformer that goes to the mixer amp. Did some checking and
found a winding short on that transformer. Corrected it and then
checked again. After getting my SKM-1 setup for a signal source using
a 1K rister into the antenna input I was able to hear a signal on my
receiver in the 4.090 range and see a mixed product on the scope.
Tuning the two front end caps (tc1 and tc2 I think) I weas able to
peak the signal at 4.090+- so great feeling to get this stage done and
re4ady to start putting the solder back onthe board. Let see if I can
get the time to add a mixer amp this week. Then the xtal filter,
etc...
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
|
1076|1066|2001-12-04 00:31:19|james-rhonda@juno.com|Re: Oh is my face red!!!|Dennis, the month is still young and when I find the problem with my
radio I may have you beat :-).
Thanks Jim for letting me know that my voltages were ok. The only
place I thought they may be suspect was on the base of Q7 to where it was
almost a volt higher than what you had placed on the diagram, with my
supply voltage being more than a volt less than what you were using, and
on the collected to where I had a slight voltage drop and you did not.
All other voltages seem ok in what I have built. The problem so far is
that I do not hear any signals as I tune. I can place my ear against the
speaker and hear a slight hiss but that does not change as I turn pot #3.
I can take a metal screwdriver and touch part leads and hear a crackles
and pops all the way to TC9. The good part is I just borrowed a digital
camera and took plenty of photos. I need to sort through them and learn
how to put them on the site. I also tried turning TC5 as Dennis did but
I did not get the same results. Will continue searching for a mistake
tomorrow. Right now I am "Dog Tired".
Thanks,
James KC5HAC
On Tue, 04 Dec 2001 00:20:38 -0000
wb0wao@yahoo.com writes:
> Jim es Group,
> This months winner of the "DUHHH" award goes to.... ME!!! It is
> amazing what the PROPER adjustment of TC5 will do to the audio
> level. The rig is pumping out audio like mad, sigs are 599 and boy
> am I embarassed! A thousand pardons for the excessive bandwith
> here. Now, it is time to hide under the desk 'till sunrise!
>
>
> 72
>
> Dennis- WB0WAO
>
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.I got things set up last night and started into stage 3. In the last two
weeks, the copper has become tarnished again with blotchy spots. Any ideas?
I'm thinking of using a cotton ball and swabbing (I'm retired Navy) the
unbuilt portions of the board with TarnX.
73 de Lee, km4yy
I don't suffer from stress, I'm a carrier.
--Dilbert's advice for 1999
|
1078|1077|2001-12-04 13:46:11|Brian|Re: Dirty board already|Lee,
Not sure I'd do that. No way to rinse off the Tarnx residue.
In the past I have taken very fine sand paper and just lightly "buffed" the
oxidation a bit. Seems to work fine for me.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 10:00 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Dirty board already
> I got things set up last night and started into stage 3. In the last two
> weeks, the copper has become tarnished again with blotchy spots. Any
ideas?
> I'm thinking of using a cotton ball and swabbing (I'm retired Navy) the
> unbuilt portions of the board with TarnX.
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
>
> I don't suffer from stress, I'm a carrier.
> --Dilbert's advice for 1999
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 10:00 AM 12/4/01 -0500, Lee, km4yy wrote:
>I got things set up last night and started into stage 3. In the last two
>weeks, the copper has become tarnished again with blotchy spots. Any ideas?
Yes, sweaty fingers and palms. Lots of acidic products
when you're working on the board.
>I'm thinking of using a cotton ball and swabbing (I'm retired Navy) the
>unbuilt portions of the board with TarnX.
That will work fine, as will a bit of scrubbing with some
3M scotch brite pad.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 07:08 PM 12/3/01 -0700, Tom, N0DSP wrote:
>Hi Jim,
>
>Thanks for taking to time to respond to my questions! I know you are very
>busy these days! :)
Yes, that's true, but I try to make the time to answer all email
that comes in. Sometimes I get a bit backlogged though.
>I have completed everything on page 1 of your new schematic. VFO, RX Input
>filter, RF AMP and DB Mixer. Also Rx Tx Driver and Rx T/R Switch from page
>4. I attached Pot 5 (1K) with the wiper to T1 lead #1, One side to ground
>and the other side (high?) to the end of L11 away from the diodes. My L11
>is color coded Brown, Red, Black, Silver.
OK....that all sounds correct Tom.
>After hooking up for the test and hearing the tone around 4.914 I thought
>all was ok. This carrier was about S9 + 5db. When it didn't change with
>the trimmers, I adjusted pot 1 but the carrier stayed put. I thought that
>maybe this carrier I was hearing was actually being generated by the K1 and
>not the 2N2.
It might well have been. The K1 uses the same 4.9152 MHz crystals
for filters and LOs as does the 2N2/40+.
> So I tuned the Yaesu (receiver) to about 4.916, keyed the K1,
>and swept back and forth with Pot 1 on my baby. (getting kind of close with
>the new rig). Didn't hear it "go by". If I remember right, one time I did
>find it but it was very weak and didn't change with the trimmers, but I
>think it did move with Pot 1.
That's of course what should happen, move with POT1, but it should
also be at a decent signal strength. And peak when the two
input trimmers, TC1 and TC2 are adjusted. I'm assuming that
you have the antenna attached to the point marked "A" on the
Rx T/R switch, and that the lead going to the Yaesu receiver
is coming from the Rx DBM, on pins 4-5 of T4.
> Couldn't find it again. Reset everything,
>keyed the K1, tuned the receiver to each carrier I could find, then went
>over and powered OFF the 2N2... none of the carriers went away.
They must be coming from the K1 then it sounds like.
>For the test, initially I started with the output of the VFO pin 4 of T5
>going to pin 1 of T4. Pins 4&5 of T4 is where I connected the center
>conductor of the coax fed directly into the receiver. WOW that means I DID
>read the schematic right!!! :)
Yes, that's indeed the correct hookup that you want to test out
the front-end, and comfirm that the signal is getting through the
front-end filters, amplified, and being mixed in the DBM. What
comes out is the difference between the signal's frequency on
7 MHz and the setting of the VFO. Of course there are other
mixer products, but those are idnored by the receiver being tuned
to 4.915+ MHz.
>So there is some more info for you. As far as "hope I've helped and not
>confused you more" Each of your posts helps me. I am very thankful for
>them and I appreciate the time that you take for ALL of us!!!
No, I understand perfectly what you have. You've made all of
the connections properly, so if you are not hearing a signal,
it is either very weak coming into the antenna, or something in
the front-end circuitry, T/R switch, DBM, or VFO isn't right.
Otherwise, you would be hearing output.
>Let me know if I can answer any additional questions to help us sort it out.
> I will try to take some pictures soon. I know that helps sometimes.
Well at this point I guess my suggestion is to check everything closely
again to make sure you haven't made any wiring mistakes. Next take
some voltage readings to comfirm those are correct, and if you have
a scope, start by looking at the VFO output. It should be driving
the DBM with 1.5 to 2 volts p-p, and you should be able to see
small anomalies in the sinewave where the diode go into conduction.
My guess is that either something is open or shorted in the front-end
circuitry, or the RF amp is oscillating like a banshee, and not passing
the signals through. Of course, looking at the output of the RF amp
with a scope or RF probe will comfirm that.
>I am so excited to be building this rig. When it is done, I know I can
>build almost anything!
I sure agree with that. Don't get discouraged, we'll get that
puppy working!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Lee,
I'm glad to see someone else has the same problem with the tarnish
on the board. Saw all the nice pictures all clean and everything and
there mine is. I've cleaned mine two or three times and each time I do
work on a new module it gets more tarnish. I tried Incredible (Stain
remover) and a cotton swab followed by Acetone to cleanup. Was tough
but after a bit of work I got most of the tarnish off. The Acetone was
to clenaup any left over residue from the Incredible. I've got to try
it again but this time the tarnish is much worse. Hope it works this
time. I'm thinking another product like Tarnx might work better so may
try that one next.
73,
Ken
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> I got things set up last night and started into stage 3. In the
last two
> weeks, the copper has become tarnished again with blotchy spots.
Any ideas?
> I'm thinking of using a cotton ball and swabbing (I'm retired Navy)
the
> unbuilt portions of the board with TarnX.
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
>
> I don't suffer from stress, I'm a carrier.
> --Dilbert's advice for 1999
Jim es Group,
I have been doing some comparisons on the RX of the 2N2 vs my SW-40+. These comparisons are very unscientific but interesting. I have the SW-40 hooked up to the DX-88 vertical and the 2N2 hooked up to a 70'+ random wire. Now the SW-40+ is running thru my tuner to the vertical and the 2N2 has a test lead clipped to the RX Antenna pad in the Front End section and then clipped to the end of the random wire antenna.
Honestly I thought the SW-40+ would "hear" better than the 2N2, but that is not the case! I can hear EVERYTHING on the 2N2 that I can hear on the SW-40+! The perceived signal strength on most signals is about equal but the bottom line is that the 2N2 seems to be a bit better with "esp" level signals as the noise floor seems to be lower on it. The really weak sigs were copyable on either rig, but easier to copy on the 2N2.
I am going to use the 2N2 as the RX tonite in the Tuesday Truffle Hunt, so I will be able to play with the VBW some.. :-)
I will start on the TX Friday and try and get it finished up by next weekend! Man I am sooooo excited!
72 es doin' da happy dance!
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1083|1083|2001-12-04 20:36:35|Delbert Long|I'm still here|Good to hear everyone's news / success!
I've been spending my time trying to figure out how to put in the next
stages...
I followed the suggested layout for the RX/TX driver, then did my own thing
for the VFO, and the rest of Sheet 1, except for the DBM.
Now, I'm on Page 2...spent most of last weekend figuring out a real neat
layout for the fixed BW filter, and a ham buddy called just in time to tell
me "Don't try to save space by folding it over, it needs to be in a straight
line or it won't work." Nice to have a good Elmer handy! Back to the
drawing board.
So...I got out the old suggested layouts, and realized that the new circuits
aren't that much different, so I think I'm just about ready to start gluing
and snorting again, finally!
Looking at Tom's pictures it looks like he mounted his board in the opposite
position to what I expected to do (XTAL filter in front, right?) Does it
make any difference really?
Y'all keep on keepin' on...
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspFor board prep, I used some pummice hand soap (the kind used for
cleaning greasy hands) and a green brillo pad. After working with the
board some I too had some spots that needed touching up, for those I
used a DRY green brillo pad and lightly rubbed the spots out. Use a can
of compressed air to blow any dust out after dry sanding.
73 de John, N1QO
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> I got things set up last night and started into stage 3. In the last two
> weeks, the copper has become tarnished again with blotchy spots. Any ideas?
> I'm thinking of using a cotton ball and swabbing (I'm retired Navy) the
> unbuilt portions of the board with TarnX.
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
>
--
John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
Web page: http://www.neknetwork.comHello group,
I'm now in the process of testing the front end. I get a good S7-S9 signal
on my receiver when transmitting into a dummy load with my SMK-1. The VFO
is set to 2.135. The receiver is on 4.907 due to the transmit freq. on the
SMK-1 (approx. 7.040) The signal from the SMK-1 is strong, and I am able
to "tune through" the signal using POT 1. The only problem I seem to have
is peaking the signal with TC1, TC2, and TC9. Turning these caps does not
have any effect on the signal. Tuning around with POT 1, I can hear very
faint CW and digital signal on the band. Where do I go from here?? Thanks
in advance.
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
|
1087|1087|2001-12-05 10:16:10|John Wagner|N1QO 2n2-40+ - extreme closeup!||
1088|1087|2001-12-05 10:45:11|Lee Mairs|Re: N1QO 2n2-40+ - extreme closeup!||
1089|1086|2001-12-05 11:56:31|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: FE -Signal Peak|At 10:33 PM 12/4/01 -0500, Pat, KF4LMZ wrote:
>Hello group,
>
>I'm now in the process of testing the front end. I get a good S7-S9 signal
>on my receiver when transmitting into a dummy load with my SMK-1. The VFO
>is set to 2.135. The receiver is on 4.907 due to the transmit freq. on the
>SMK-1 (approx. 7.040) The signal from the SMK-1 is strong, and I am able
>to "tune through" the signal using POT 1.
Well so far everything appears to be working correctly, at least
in terms of the incoming signal getting mixed with the VFO, and
coming out on 4.9+ MHz. A good start!
> The only problem I seem to have
>is peaking the signal with TC1, TC2, and TC9. Turning these caps does not
>have any effect on the signal. Tuning around with POT 1, I can hear very
>faint CW and digital signal on the band. Where do I go from here??
Start looking for problems with the front-end T/R switch and
bandpass filter construction. It all ought to tune, and if not,
something is indeed wrong. Check your construction again is the
first step. Do you have any test equipment available? If so,
what?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
An idea for the future.
When I started 2N40 first I cleaned the entire board, layed out the
boundaries of the functional areas on the board with a scribe and then I
wrapped the board in normal office paper holding the paper in place by tape
on paper. I cut out the paper for the functional area that I am building.
The remainder is protected from grime by the paper covering. When a
subsequent area is exposed for the next stage the board is clean and
reasonably shiny.
Walt, N6XG
-----Original Message-----
From:
kenm1@ev1.net [mailto:
kenm1@ev1.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 11:22 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Dirty board already
Lee,
I'm glad to see someone else has the same problem with the tarnish
on the board. Saw all the nice pictures all clean and everything and
there mine is. I've cleaned mine two or three times and each time I do
work on a new module it gets more tarnish. I tried Incredible (Stain
remover) and a cotton swab followed by Acetone to cleanup. Was tough
but after a bit of work I got most of the tarnish off. The Acetone was
to clenaup any left over residue from the Incredible. I've got to try
it again but this time the tarnish is much worse. Hope it works this
time. I'm thinking another product like Tarnx might work better so may
try that one next.
73,
Ken
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> I got things set up last night and started into stage 3. In the
last two
> weeks, the copper has become tarnished again with blotchy spots.
Any ideas?
> I'm thinking of using a cotton ball and swabbing (I'm retired Navy)
the
> unbuilt portions of the board with TarnX.
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
>
> I don't suffer from stress, I'm a carrier.
> --Dilbert's advice for 1999
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Great idea Walt. I'll try in next time.
Lee
In America, it is indispensable that every well wisher of true liberty
should
understand that acts of tyranny can only proceed from the publick. The
publick,
then, is to be watched, in this country, as, in other countries kings and
aristocrats are to be watched.
--James Fennimore Cooper
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walt Wilson" <wwham@earthlink.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 4:47 PM
Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Re: Dirty board already
> An idea for the future.
>
> When I started 2N40 first I cleaned the entire board, layed out the
> boundaries of the functional areas on the board with a scribe and then I
> wrapped the board in normal office paper holding the paper in place by
tape
> on paper. I cut out the paper for the functional area that I am building.
> The remainder is protected from grime by the paper covering. When a
> subsequent area is exposed for the next stage the board is clean and
> reasonably shiny.
>
> Walt, N6XG
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kenm1@ev1.net [mailto:kenm1@ev1.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 11:22 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Dirty board already
>
>
> Lee,
>
> I'm glad to see someone else has the same problem with the tarnish
> on the board. Saw all the nice pictures all clean and everything and
> there mine is. I've cleaned mine two or three times and each time I do
> work on a new module it gets more tarnish. I tried Incredible (Stain
> remover) and a cotton swab followed by Acetone to cleanup. Was tough
> but after a bit of work I got most of the tarnish off. The Acetone was
> to clenaup any left over residue from the Incredible. I've got to try
> it again but this time the tarnish is much worse. Hope it works this
> time. I'm thinking another product like Tarnx might work better so may
> try that one next.
>
> 73,
> Ken
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> > I got things set up last night and started into stage 3. In the
> last two
> > weeks, the copper has become tarnished again with blotchy spots.
> Any ideas?
> > I'm thinking of using a cotton ball and swabbing (I'm retired Navy)
> the
> > unbuilt portions of the board with TarnX.
> > 73 de Lee, km4yy
> >
> > I don't suffer from stress, I'm a carrier.
> > --Dilbert's advice for 1999
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Didn't I see somewhere that a builder had covered his whole board in blue
masking tape? then cut/peeled away the section he was building? Like a
surgical gown.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Dirty board already
> Great idea Walt. I'll try in next time.
> Lee
>
> In America, it is indispensable that every well wisher of true liberty
> should
> understand that acts of tyranny can only proceed from the publick. The
> publick,
> then, is to be watched, in this country, as, in other countries kings and
> aristocrats are to be watched.
> --James Fennimore Cooper
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Walt Wilson" <wwham@earthlink.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 4:47 PM
> Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Re: Dirty board already
>
>
> > An idea for the future.
> >
> > When I started 2N40 first I cleaned the entire board, layed out the
> > boundaries of the functional areas on the board with a scribe and then I
> > wrapped the board in normal office paper holding the paper in place by
> tape
> > on paper. I cut out the paper for the functional area that I am
building.
> > The remainder is protected from grime by the paper covering. When a
> > subsequent area is exposed for the next stage the board is clean and
> > reasonably shiny.
> >
> > Walt, N6XG
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: kenm1@ev1.net [mailto:kenm1@ev1.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 11:22 PM
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Dirty board already
> >
> >
> > Lee,
> >
> > I'm glad to see someone else has the same problem with the tarnish
> > on the board. Saw all the nice pictures all clean and everything and
> > there mine is. I've cleaned mine two or three times and each time I do
> > work on a new module it gets more tarnish. I tried Incredible (Stain
> > remover) and a cotton swab followed by Acetone to cleanup. Was tough
> > but after a bit of work I got most of the tarnish off. The Acetone was
> > to clenaup any left over residue from the Incredible. I've got to try
> > it again but this time the tarnish is much worse. Hope it works this
> > time. I'm thinking another product like Tarnx might work better so may
> > try that one next.
> >
> > 73,
> > Ken
> > --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> > > I got things set up last night and started into stage 3. In the
> > last two
> > > weeks, the copper has become tarnished again with blotchy spots.
> > Any ideas?
> > > I'm thinking of using a cotton ball and swabbing (I'm retired Navy)
> > the
> > > unbuilt portions of the board with TarnX.
> > > 73 de Lee, km4yy
> > >
> > > I don't suffer from stress, I'm a carrier.
> > > --Dilbert's advice for 1999
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I had not seen that posting. I thought about it before I did the paper wrap
technique. The concern was that even blue tape leaves a residue on the
board. So the paper route seemed to be safer.
Walt, N6XG
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian [mailto:
brian@iquest.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 7:51 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Dirty board already
Didn't I see somewhere that a builder had covered his whole board in blue
masking tape? then cut/peeled away the section he was building? Like a
surgical gown.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Dirty board already
> Great idea Walt. I'll try in next time.
> Lee
>
> In America, it is indispensable that every well wisher of true liberty
> should
> understand that acts of tyranny can only proceed from the publick. The
> publick,
> then, is to be watched, in this country, as, in other countries kings and
> aristocrats are to be watched.
> --James Fennimore Cooper
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Walt Wilson" <wwham@earthlink.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 4:47 PM
> Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Re: Dirty board already
>
>
> > An idea for the future.
> >
> > When I started 2N40 first I cleaned the entire board, layed out the
> > boundaries of the functional areas on the board with a scribe and then I
> > wrapped the board in normal office paper holding the paper in place by
> tape
> > on paper. I cut out the paper for the functional area that I am
building.
> > The remainder is protected from grime by the paper covering. When a
> > subsequent area is exposed for the next stage the board is clean and
> > reasonably shiny.
> >
> > Walt, N6XG
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: kenm1@ev1.net [mailto:kenm1@ev1.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 11:22 PM
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Dirty board already
> >
> >
> > Lee,
> >
> > I'm glad to see someone else has the same problem with the tarnish
> > on the board. Saw all the nice pictures all clean and everything and
> > there mine is. I've cleaned mine two or three times and each time I do
> > work on a new module it gets more tarnish. I tried Incredible (Stain
> > remover) and a cotton swab followed by Acetone to cleanup. Was tough
> > but after a bit of work I got most of the tarnish off. The Acetone was
> > to clenaup any left over residue from the Incredible. I've got to try
> > it again but this time the tarnish is much worse. Hope it works this
> > time. I'm thinking another product like Tarnx might work better so may
> > try that one next.
> >
> > 73,
> > Ken
> > --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> > > I got things set up last night and started into stage 3. In the
> > last two
> > > weeks, the copper has become tarnished again with blotchy spots.
> > Any ideas?
> > > I'm thinking of using a cotton ball and swabbing (I'm retired Navy)
> > the
> > > unbuilt portions of the board with TarnX.
> > > 73 de Lee, km4yy
> > >
> > > I don't suffer from stress, I'm a carrier.
> > > --Dilbert's advice for 1999
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
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> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 08:47 PM 12/5/01 -0100, you wrote:
>An idea for the future.
>
>When I started 2N40 first I cleaned the entire board, layed out the
>boundaries of the functional areas on the board with a scribe and then I
>wrapped the board in normal office paper holding the paper in place by tape
>on paper. I cut out the paper for the functional area that I am building.
>The remainder is protected from grime by the paper covering. When a
>subsequent area is exposed for the next stage the board is clean and
>reasonably shiny.
>
>Walt, N6XG
Walt,
That's a really good way of doing it. I have to try that on my
next large project.
72 and many thanks,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Lee,
I talked to Mike and he will bring in the camera next week. We'll shot a
bunch of close-ups of each section. I may even try to annotate some of
the images. Hopefully it will be helpful. Should have them next weds or
so.
73 John, N1QO
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> John -
> It would be an immense help if you could get your buddy to take pictures
> (aerial view directly down) of each of the stage sections. I, for one, am
> spending a lot more time trying to figure out optimal parts placement, or
> trying to resolve differences between the original article and the new
> schematics.
>
> Needless to say, your construction techniques are incredible. Makes me
> afraid to show anybody mine. Maybe if I potted the rig in some opaque
> plastic or black snake snot...
> 73 de Lee, KM4YY
>
> >
> > My friend Mike at work bought a new 6megapixel digital camera yesterday.
> > I had happened to bring in my 2n2-40+ for show and tell to a couple of
> > hams that I work with.
> >
> > Since Mike was wanting to show of his camera, I gave him a subject. ;)
> > The following are some high-res shots that he took yesterday;
> >
> > http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/dbm-closeup-1.jpg
> > http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/rcv-lo-closeup-1.jpg
> > http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/xtal-filter-closeup-1.jpg
> > http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/vfo-closeup-1.jpg
> >
> > I haven't updated my web page with the new links or commentary in a
> > while but will do so when I have time.
> >
> > 73 de John, N1QO
> > --
> > John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> > Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim,
Once again, thank you for the help. The test equipment situation here is
pretty sparse. I have a DVM, an analog VOM, a homebrew RF probe, a VE3DNL
marker generator, and an SSS Frequency Counter. Tonight, I'll try to go
through my construction with a fine tooth comb.....maybe I'll get lucky.
Hopefully, it will turn out to be something simple!!
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
----------
> From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] FE -Signal Peak
> Date: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 11:55 AM
>
> At 10:33 PM 12/4/01 -0500, Pat, KF4LMZ wrote:
>
> >Hello group,
> >
> >I'm now in the process of testing the front end. I get a good S7-S9
signal
> >on my receiver when transmitting into a dummy load with my SMK-1. The
VFO
> >is set to 2.135. The receiver is on 4.907 due to the transmit freq. on
the
> >SMK-1 (approx. 7.040) The signal from the SMK-1 is strong, and I am
able
> >to "tune through" the signal using POT 1.
>
> Well so far everything appears to be working correctly, at least
> in terms of the incoming signal getting mixed with the VFO, and
> coming out on 4.9+ MHz. A good start!
>
> > The only problem I seem to have
> >is peaking the signal with TC1, TC2, and TC9. Turning these caps does
not
> >have any effect on the signal. Tuning around with POT 1, I can hear
very
> >faint CW and digital signal on the band. Where do I go from here??
>
> Start looking for problems with the front-end T/R switch and
> bandpass filter construction. It all ought to tune, and if not,
> something is indeed wrong. Check your construction again is the
> first step. Do you have any test equipment available? If so,
> what?
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
That will be great, but keep him far enough away so you can see all the
components in a section. Some of the extreme close-ups were a bit fuzzy
here.
I just can't get over how good your board looks relative to mine. I did
start using Manhattan pads instead of the Islander tonight. Seems to make a
bit of difference, but nothing as clean and precise as your rig.
Do you hang your shirts in the closet so that the buttons all point in the
same direction, also?
72 de Lee, km4yy
"Politicians are the same all over. They promise to build bridges even
when there are no rivers."
- Nikita Khrushchev
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] N1QO 2n2-40+ - extreme closeup!
> Lee,
>
> I talked to Mike and he will bring in the camera next week. We'll shot a
> bunch of close-ups of each section. I may even try to annotate some of
> the images. Hopefully it will be helpful. Should have them next weds or
> so.
>
> 73 John, N1QO
>
> Lee Mairs wrote:
> >
> > John -
> > It would be an immense help if you could get your buddy to take pictures
> > (aerial view directly down) of each of the stage sections. I, for one,
am
> > spending a lot more time trying to figure out optimal parts placement,
or
> > trying to resolve differences between the original article and the new
> > schematics.
> >
> > Needless to say, your construction techniques are incredible. Makes me
> > afraid to show anybody mine. Maybe if I potted the rig in some opaque
> > plastic or black snake snot...
> > 73 de Lee, KM4YY
> >
> > >
> > > My friend Mike at work bought a new 6megapixel digital camera
yesterday.
> > > I had happened to bring in my 2n2-40+ for show and tell to a couple of
> > > hams that I work with.
> > >
> > > Since Mike was wanting to show of his camera, I gave him a subject. ;)
> > > The following are some high-res shots that he took yesterday;
> > >
> > > http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/dbm-closeup-1.jpg
> > > http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/rcv-lo-closeup-1.jpg
> > > http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/xtal-filter-closeup-1.jpg
> > > http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/vfo-closeup-1.jpg
> > >
> > > I haven't updated my web page with the new links or commentary in a
> > > while but will do so when I have time.
> > >
> > > 73 de John, N1QO
> > > --
> > > John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> > > Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Pat -- KF4LMZ:
You might try clipping your antenna lead to junctions further down
the input chain. I tested my receiver by clipping the antenna to the
#1 lead of T1 -- worked fine. If T1 doesn't work, you might try the
#4 lead of T2 -- that would bypass the input filter, T/R switches
etc. If the receive performance was the same as you have now, you
might be able to work back, clipping the antenna to the filter, T/R,
etc, sections to see if you can isolate the problem.
I didn't hook up my T/R switch until my receiver was working, and
then I forgot that the T/R circuit needed power to allow the receiver
to receive -- took me a while to figure that out :-)
Good Luck,
Jake -- N4UY
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Patrick York" wrote:
> Hello group,
>
> I'm now in the process of testing the front end. I get a good S7-
S9 signal
> on my receiver when transmitting into a dummy load with my SMK-1.
The VFO
> is set to 2.135. The receiver is on 4.907 due to the transmit
freq. on the
> SMK-1 (approx. 7.040) The signal from the SMK-1 is strong, and I
am able
> to "tune through" the signal using POT 1. The only problem I seem
to have
> is peaking the signal with TC1, TC2, and TC9. Turning these caps
does not
> have any effect on the signal. Tuning around with POT 1, I can
hear very
> faint CW and digital signal on the band. Where do I go from
here?? Thanks
> in advance.
>
> 72 de Pat KF4LMZ
Brian wrote:
>Didn't I see somewhere that a builder had covered his whole board in blue
>masking tape? then cut/peeled away the section he was building? Like a
>surgical gown.
That may have been me. I did that when I built the oscillator for my MH101
SW30+. It looked pretty promising at that point, but after the board sat
around for 3 months I had a sticky mess. Acetone and steel wool were
required to clean it up. Since that episode I have decided that fingerprints
give it character and a personal touch (hi).
I have held and admired many rigs that Mike Fitzgibbon N0MF has built,
including several multi-board rigs like his IA-QRP-10. His boards are always
spotless and I don't know how he does it. I suppose cleaning the section of
board you are going to build on and then being careful about where you put
your fingers is a big part of it. I like the idea of swabbing Tarnx around
after it is built too. It would probably be a good idea to test Tarnx on
solder first to see what it does to it.
72
Jerry
W0PWE
http://www.qsl.net/w0pweAnyone here a doc or a surgery nurse?? I think they have some paper
tape that has non-residue glue on it. I'm going to ask an RN friend
of mine if he's seen it before.
That might make a good mask!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aartec" <aartec@dwx.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 9:00 PM
Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Re: Dirty board already
> Brian wrote:
>
> >Didn't I see somewhere that a builder had covered his whole board
in blue
> >masking tape? then cut/peeled away the section he was building?
Like a
> >surgical gown.
>
> That may have been me. I did that when I built the oscillator for my
MH101
> SW30+. It looked pretty promising at that point, but after the board
sat
> around for 3 months I had a sticky mess. Acetone and steel wool were
> required to clean it up. Since that episode I have decided that
fingerprints
> give it character and a personal touch (hi).
>
> I have held and admired many rigs that Mike Fitzgibbon N0MF has
built,
> including several multi-board rigs like his IA-QRP-10. His boards
are always
> spotless and I don't know how he does it. I suppose cleaning the
section of
> board you are going to build on and then being careful about where
you put
> your fingers is a big part of it. I like the idea of swabbing Tarnx
around
> after it is built too. It would probably be a good idea to test
Tarnx on
> solder first to see what it does to it.
>
> 72
> Jerry
> W0PWE
> http://www.qsl.net/w0pwe
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> That will be great, but keep him far enough away so you can see all the
> components in a section. Some of the extreme close-ups were a bit fuzzy
> here.
Yeah, I think we'll go for something about like the VFO section came
out. That was far enough away. Mike was just getting to know his new
camera too.
> I just can't get over how good your board looks relative to mine. I did
> start using Manhattan pads instead of the Islander tonight. Seems to make a
> bit of difference, but nothing as clean and precise as your rig.
Thanks for the nice comments, really. This is the second manhattan style
rig I've built, my first one doesn't look as good as this one. One thing
I do that I picked up from another builders web page that makes a big
difference is squaring the leads and trying to keep the parts straight
up and down. When a part has one end on a pad and one end to ground make
sure the one going to ground is longer so the part doesn't lean funny.
>
> Do you hang your shirts in the closet so that the buttons all point in the
> same direction, also?
And evenly spaced. ;) [not really]
73 de John, N1QO
> 72 de Lee, km4yy
>
> "Politicians are the same all over. They promise to build bridges even
> when there are no rivers."
> - Nikita Khrushchev
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com2n2-er's,
I've installed all the things Jim talked about to make the Mute
circuit better. It is better, but it's not to the point where I can
use the rig with headphones and not blast my ears off.
However, I usually run the rig with the RF Gain (pot 5) almost all
the way up. I've found when I turn this down the sidetone isn't so
loud and the mute circuit actually works pretty good. In fact, it
sounds *really darn* good.
So my question is this; is there a way to switch in a 1K resistor
between L1 and Pot 5 only when the rig is keyed (and switch out pot
5), but have it completely out of the circuit when the rig is recv
mode? I was thinking something like a relay would do it, but it might
be power intensive and sort of loud.
Thoughts?
73 de John, N1QO
|
1103|1077|2001-12-06 09:46:12|g4gxl|Re: Dirty board already|Hi Guys
I'm sticking Post-It Notes (don't know if you call them by the same
name in the states, but they are yellow sticky things ... ) around
the section to be built. Hardly the 'tip of the year' but it works
for me ! Any bits of flux or fingerprints are cleaned off with a
cotton-bud as I go along.
I can now sit up and build for around 20 - 30 minutes at a time, so
am making slow but steady progress. VFO almost done (stage 1 works,
but then I suppose I would be in trouble if I failed there !).
Can I use a 1N4007 in place of the 1N4004 for D6 in the VFO ?
Just don't have any 1N4004s with me and can't convince YL to spend
an hour sorting through garage and junk box to find one.
73
Steve G4GXL
|
1104|1104|2001-12-06 15:25:06|William Wood|Layout planning|Greetings to the Group
Great seeing all the progress and hearing the
success stories. I'm still draging my feet here, took
a long time to start feeling comfortable with the
schematics and their changes. I've got the board pads
fairly well glued, mostly with the original layout.
Thought if I did that, I could route the power and
signal cables neatly through out the board before
starting the construction. One of the things that has
held me up a little is which of the battery holders do
I want to set up under my board, and how much change
will this make with my enclosure. I now have the Tick
4 keyer, speaker, feet for the cabnit etc, but am
waiting on the battery holders before I start on the
cabnit. My plans are to have two sets of AAs to equal
12V each set, and be able to switch these in and out
at will. I also want an active antenna that will of
course be out of the way when actively using the rig
for communications. Just want a rig to take here and
there and listen in on you guys when I'm not hooked up
to a sky wire. The fold down antenna will sit laying
down above the regular hookups in the rear of this
cabnit. The cabnit I'm planning on using is a very
pretty black, hinged, curved cover, candy holder, and
whith the extra coats of clear lacquer it has now, it
should not rust etc. The board is a little smaller
than the width and length measurments, and I should
have little trouble with the spacing of the batteries
underneath the board, and hopefully speaker and keyer
will be under the board too. The wife is expecting to
be getting her present a little earlier this year, and
I'm hoping to get a few pixs of the rig when she does.
: )
73 72
Bill KE9XQ
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.comCan somebody point me to previous posts concerning the geometry of the
toroid transformers. I'm confused with the schematic nomenclature.
On the schematic I assume (yeah, I know...) that the primary is on the left
and the secondary is on the right. I am uneasy as to which end of my
winding corresponds to the top of the primary and top of the secondary on
the schematic. Are the NA5A diagrams correct (aside from some turns
differences between the original and Jim's revised design)?
73 de Lee
km4yy
Democracy, for example, arises out of the notion that those who are
equal in any respect are equal in all respects; because men are
equally free, they claim to be absolutely equal.
--Aristotle
|
1106|1077|2001-12-06 16:30:53|John Wagner|Re: Dirty board already|Hey Steve,
g4gxl wrote:
>
> Hi Guys
>
> I'm sticking Post-It Notes (don't know if you call them by the same
Yup, same name....
> name in the states, but they are yellow sticky things ... ) around
> the section to be built. Hardly the 'tip of the year' but it works
> for me ! Any bits of flux or fingerprints are cleaned off with a
> cotton-bud as I go along.
>
> I can now sit up and build for around 20 - 30 minutes at a time, so
> am making slow but steady progress. VFO almost done (stage 1 works,
> but then I suppose I would be in trouble if I failed there !).
>
> Can I use a 1N4007 in place of the 1N4004 for D6 in the VFO ?
> Just don't have any 1N4004s with me and can't convince YL to spend
> an hour sorting through garage and junk box to find one.
Yes you can use the 1n4007.
Glad you're feeling up to building, if only a little. Think how much
you'll healed up by the time you're done. ;)
73 de John, N1QO
>
> 73
> Steve G4GXL
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comIt's the numbering that's important. The primary is always 1/2 and the
secondary is 3/4. The number of turns for each is on the schematic.
There was a good discussion on transformers a while back and I think Jim
uploaded some nice pics to go along with it. Use the search feature on
the website and I'm sure they'll turn up.
The NA5N diagrams have numbering problems and the errata sheet mentions
that. I think when you find those messages it will clear it up for you.
73 de John, N1QO
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> Can somebody point me to previous posts concerning the geometry of the
> toroid transformers. I'm confused with the schematic nomenclature.
> On the schematic I assume (yeah, I know...) that the primary is on the left
> and the secondary is on the right. I am uneasy as to which end of my
> winding corresponds to the top of the primary and top of the secondary on
> the schematic. Are the NA5A diagrams correct (aside from some turns
> differences between the original and Jim's revised design)?
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
> Democracy, for example, arises out of the notion that those who are
> equal in any respect are equal in all respects; because men are
> equally free, they claim to be absolutely equal.
> --Aristotle
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 02:46 PM 12/6/01 +0000, Steve, G4GXL wrote:
>Hi Guys
>
>I'm sticking Post-It Notes (don't know if you call them by the same
>name in the states, but they are yellow sticky things ... ) around
>the section to be built. Hardly the 'tip of the year' but it works
>for me !
Darn good way of doing it Steve. Yes, we call them Post-It notes
too. Made by 3M Company.
>I can now sit up and build for around 20 - 30 minutes at a time, so
>am making slow but steady progress. VFO almost done (stage 1 works,
>but then I suppose I would be in trouble if I failed there !).
Sounds like the healing is going along fine. Good to hear that!!
>Can I use a 1N4007 in place of the 1N4004 for D6 in the VFO ?
Yes, it will work just fine. Nothing critical at all about
that diode. I specified 1N4004 as that's what I had at the
time I designed that part of the rig.
>Just don't have any 1N4004s with me and can't convince YL to spend
>an hour sorting through garage and junk box to find one.
No, no need to have her do that.
72 and keep getting better,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Getting close to having all the parts on hand! I have a couple of questions
on parts.
1. On the trimmer caps, I can get my hands on ones that are 'close'. Meaning
I can find 10-85 pf, 2-11 pf & 7-62 pf. Will these work OK??
2. For crystals, about how many should I buy in order to be sure that I have
enough that are matched??
72 & Thanks!!
.mark
Stress is when you wake up screaming and you
realize you haven't fallen asleep yet.
|
1110|1109|2001-12-06 18:51:44|John Wagner|Re: Been Shopping! Questions On Parts|Mark Schoonover wrote:
>
> Getting close to having all the parts on hand! I have a couple of questions
> on parts.
>
> 1. On the trimmer caps, I can get my hands on ones that are 'close'. Meaning
> I can find 10-85 pf, 2-11 pf & 7-62 pf. Will these work OK??
Those will work fine. I think I used 10-85pf throughout mine.
> 2. For crystals, about how many should I buy in order to be sure that I have
> enough that are matched??
I'd recommend pinging Jim and seeing if he has any matched sets
available. He had a nice little kit, including the pot, varicap diodes,
leds, etc... for the variable bandwidth filter.
73 de John, N1QO
>
> 72 & Thanks!!
>
> .mark
>
> Stress is when you wake up screaming and you
> realize you haven't fallen asleep yet.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 03:46 PM 12/6/01 -0800, Mark wrote:
>Getting close to having all the parts on hand! I have a couple of questions
>on parts.
>
>1. On the trimmer caps, I can get my hands on ones that are 'close'. Meaning
>I can find 10-85 pf, 2-11 pf & 7-62 pf. Will these work OK??
Yes, those should do just fine.
>2. For crystals, about how many should I buy in order to be sure that I have
>enough that are matched??
20 to get a good filter. 10 might get you a so-so one. It all
depends on how lucky you are with the 10 units. I also still have
stock to supply both variable bandwidth and fixed bandwidth filter,
if you decide you don't want to do it yourself.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 03:41 PM 12/6/01 -0500, Lee, km4yy wrote:
>Can somebody point me to previous posts concerning the geometry of the
>toroid transformers. I'm confused with the schematic nomenclature.
>On the schematic I assume (yeah, I know...) that the primary is on the left
>and the secondary is on the right.
It is, or they are, which ever is more grammatically correct.
> I am uneasy as to which end of my
>winding corresponds to the top of the primary and top of the secondary on
>the schematic.
Well actually, it really doesn't make a whole lot of difference.
It will work any way you can get the wire on the core. Look
at the pictures I posted on the Yahoo web site of some ways
to wind the transformers.
> Are the NA5A diagrams correct (aside from some turns
>differences between the original and Jim's revised design)?
Yes and no. The drawings are fine, the pinouts don't match
with the schematics well though.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 06:37 PM 12/5/01 -0500, Pat, KF4LMZ wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Once again, thank you for the help. The test equipment situation here is
>pretty sparse. I have a DVM, an analog VOM, a homebrew RF probe, a VE3DNL
>marker generator, and an SSS Frequency Counter.
Pat, I think you are in fine shape with equipment. You have one of
everything needed to completely debug the rig, believe it or not,
assuming that you also have a second receiver that will tune to
the IF frequency. I think I remember you saying that you had a
general coverage receiver.
> Tonight, I'll try to go
>through my construction with a fine tooth comb.....maybe I'll get lucky.
That's the first step. Once we eliminate building errors, we'll get
it working just fine.
>Hopefully, it will turn out to be something simple!!
Usually is....a joint left unsoldered, wrong part, etc.
72 and keep us posted on your findings,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim,
Thanks for the offer! I think I would prefer the VBW filter. What
other parts do you have that you wouldn't mind 'parting' with?? I think the
MV* parts might be difficult for me to find. I have easy access to all the
rest. Please let me know what you have and how much it'll all cost mailed to
CA.
72 & thanks!
.mark
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY [mailto:jokortge@prodigy.net]
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 6:14 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Been Shopping! Questions On Parts
>
>
> At 03:46 PM 12/6/01 -0800, Mark wrote:
>
> >Getting close to having all the parts on hand! I have a
> couple of questions
> >on parts.
> >
> >1. On the trimmer caps, I can get my hands on ones that are
> 'close'. Meaning
> >I can find 10-85 pf, 2-11 pf & 7-62 pf. Will these work OK??
>
> Yes, those should do just fine.
>
>
> >2. For crystals, about how many should I buy in order to be
> sure that I have
> >enough that are matched??
>
> 20 to get a good filter. 10 might get you a so-so one. It all
> depends on how lucky you are with the 10 units. I also still have
> stock to supply both variable bandwidth and fixed bandwidth filter,
> if you decide you don't want to do it yourself.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ---------------------~-->
> Tiny Wireless Camera under $80!
> Order Now! FREE VCR Commander!
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> --------------------------------------------------------------
> -------~->
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
>
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>
>
>
Jim -
I thought that if I got the directions wrong, say the primary was connected
correctly, but the secondary connection that wasn't supposed to go to ground
did go to ground, that would put the windings out of phase. Wasn't this
several folks problem with the "one turn" transformer?
73 de Lee
km4yy
PS: For the rest of the group: Didn't we buy "selected diodes" for the DBM?
Seems like I remember a thread about how to select these 1N4148 diodes.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Transformer windings
> At 03:41 PM 12/6/01 -0500, Lee, km4yy wrote:
>
> >Can somebody point me to previous posts concerning the geometry of the
> >toroid transformers. I'm confused with the schematic nomenclature.
> >On the schematic I assume (yeah, I know...) that the primary is on the
left
> >and the secondary is on the right.
>
> It is, or they are, which ever is more grammatically correct.
>
> > I am uneasy as to which end of my
> >winding corresponds to the top of the primary and top of the secondary on
> >the schematic.
>
> Well actually, it really doesn't make a whole lot of difference.
> It will work any way you can get the wire on the core. Look
> at the pictures I posted on the Yahoo web site of some ways
> to wind the transformers.
>
> > Are the NA5A diagrams correct (aside from some turns
> >differences between the original and Jim's revised design)?
>
> Yes and no. The drawings are fine, the pinouts don't match
> with the schematics well though.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Mark,
Jim's filter comes with the MV1662's that you will need. I have spare
MVAM109's supplied by one of the building during the group buys and can
provide you with one.
73 de John, N1QO
Mark Schoonover wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
> Thanks for the offer! I think I would prefer the VBW filter. What
> other parts do you have that you wouldn't mind 'parting' with?? I think the
> MV* parts might be difficult for me to find. I have easy access to all the
> rest. Please let me know what you have and how much it'll all cost mailed to
> CA.
>
> 72 & thanks!
>
> .mark
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY [mailto:jokortge@prodigy.net]
> > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 6:14 PM
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Been Shopping! Questions On Parts
> >
> >
> > At 03:46 PM 12/6/01 -0800, Mark wrote:
> >
> > >Getting close to having all the parts on hand! I have a
> > couple of questions
> > >on parts.
> > >
> > >1. On the trimmer caps, I can get my hands on ones that are
> > 'close'. Meaning
> > >I can find 10-85 pf, 2-11 pf & 7-62 pf. Will these work OK??
> >
> > Yes, those should do just fine.
> >
> >
> > >2. For crystals, about how many should I buy in order to be
> > sure that I have
> > >enough that are matched??
> >
> > 20 to get a good filter. 10 might get you a so-so one. It all
> > depends on how lucky you are with the 10 units. I also still have
> > stock to supply both variable bandwidth and fixed bandwidth filter,
> > if you decide you don't want to do it yourself.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > ---------------------~-->
> > Tiny Wireless Camera under $80!
> > Order Now! FREE VCR Commander!
> > Click Here - Only 1 Day Left!
> > http://us.click.yahoo.com/75YKVC/7.PDAA/ySSFAA/ELTolB/TM
> > --------------------------------------------------------------
> > -------~->
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThis tape may be like masking tape. Masking tape is great for painting, IF
and only IF you remove it ASAP. The longer the tape is on the surface, the
stronger the adhesive becomes. If you leave it too long, WHOO BOY!
It will be interesting if someone has a better tape for our use in this
quest. The paper idea sounds great!
72 de K4TJD Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aartec" <aartec@dwx.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 21:00 PM
Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Re: Dirty board already
Brian wrote:
>Didn't I see somewhere that a builder had covered his whole board in blue
>masking tape? then cut/peeled away the section he was building? Like a
>surgical gown.
That may have been me. I did that when I built the oscillator for my MH101
SW30+. It looked pretty promising at that point, but after the board sat
around for 3 months I had a sticky mess. Acetone and steel wool were
required to clean it up. Since that episode I have decided that fingerprints
give it character and a personal touch (hi).
I have held and admired many rigs that Mike Fitzgibbon N0MF has built,
including several multi-board rigs like his IA-QRP-10. His boards are always
spotless and I don't know how he does it. I suppose cleaning the section of
board you are going to build on and then being careful about where you put
your fingers is a big part of it. I like the idea of swabbing Tarnx around
after it is built too. It would probably be a good idea to test Tarnx on
solder first to see what it does to it.
72
Jerry
W0PWE
http://www.qsl.net/w0pwe
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Built the VFO, switched on ... nothing !
Checked all connections and all voltages OK, then noticed I had used
0.01 ceramics instead of the 0.001 polys for C10 and C11.
Changed the caps and it worked. Just removed a turn from L1 and
changed C7 to 150pF (I'm using a 50k 10 turn tuning pot) and got
102kHz tuning range starting at 2085kHz).
Can't really measure output so will leave C12 where it is for time-
being.
Will also have to postpone 'happy dance'.
73 Steve G4GXL
|
1119|1077|2001-12-07 10:49:35|Mark Schoonover|Re: Dirty board already|The tape that comes to mind is used in the marine business. It is masking
tape like, blue in color but the adhesive does not get sticky when left out
in the sun. It doesn't seem to matter how long it is on, it comes off clean.
It is used to mask off parts of the hull when one has to varnish or
paint.... Not sure how much it costs, Comes in various widths....
72
.mark
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Dooley [mailto:tdooley@atl.mediaone.net]
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 6:54 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Dirty board already
>
>
> This tape may be like masking tape. Masking tape is great
> for painting, IF
> and only IF you remove it ASAP. The longer the tape is on
> the surface, the
> stronger the adhesive becomes. If you leave it too long, WHOO BOY!
>
> It will be interesting if someone has a better tape for our
> use in this
> quest. The paper idea sounds great!
>
> 72 de K4TJD Tom
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aartec" <aartec@dwx.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 21:00 PM
> Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Re: Dirty board already
>
>
> Brian wrote:
>
> >Didn't I see somewhere that a builder had covered his whole
> board in blue
> >masking tape? then cut/peeled away the section he was
> building? Like a
> >surgical gown.
>
> That may have been me. I did that when I built the oscillator
> for my MH101
> SW30+. It looked pretty promising at that point, but after
> the board sat
> around for 3 months I had a sticky mess. Acetone and steel wool were
> required to clean it up. Since that episode I have decided
> that fingerprints
> give it character and a personal touch (hi).
>
> I have held and admired many rigs that Mike Fitzgibbon N0MF has built,
> including several multi-board rigs like his IA-QRP-10. His
> boards are always
> spotless and I don't know how he does it. I suppose cleaning
> the section of
> board you are going to build on and then being careful about
> where you put
> your fingers is a big part of it. I like the idea of swabbing
> Tarnx around
> after it is built too. It would probably be a good idea to
> test Tarnx on
> solder first to see what it does to it.
>
> 72
> Jerry
> W0PWE
> http://www.qsl.net/w0pwe
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ---------------------~-->
> Break free. Great
> American Smokeout
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/3vN8tD/.pSDAA/ySSFAA/ELTolB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> -------~->
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> Built the VFO, switched on ... nothing !
>
> Checked all connections and all voltages OK, then noticed I had used
> 0.01 ceramics instead of the 0.001 polys for C10 and C11.
I was wondering this myself.... Other than temp compensated caps, why does
what they are made of make a difference?? Inquiring minds want to know! :)
72 .mark
Mark,
Don't want the VFO wandering all over the spectrum with minor changes
in temperature. The reason the ceramics thwarted the VFO completely is
that they were 10 times too big.
72,
Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Mark Schoonover wrote:
>
> > Built the VFO, switched on ... nothing !
> >
> > Checked all connections and all voltages OK, then noticed I had
used
> > 0.01 ceramics instead of the 0.001 polys for C10 and C11.
>
> I was wondering this myself.... Other than temp compensated caps,
why does
> what they are made of make a difference?? Inquiring minds want to
know! :)
>
> 72 .mark
About 25 years ago a buddy and I made and sold VHF power amplifiers for
amateur use. My buddy made the circuit boards and then washed the copper
surface with a clear liquid that actually deposited a silver-colored finish
on the exposed copper. This stuff was great and lasted forever keeping the
boards looking good. I'm sure anything that worked that well must be
against some OSHA/EPA regulations by now. Anybody know of a similar
product?
73 de Lee, km4yy
Don't ever take a fence down until you know the reason it was put up.
--Gilbert Keith Chesterton
> The tape that comes to mind is used in the marine business. It is masking
> tape like, blue in color but the adhesive does not get sticky when left
out
> in the sun. It doesn't seem to matter how long it is on, it comes off
clean.
> It is used to mask off parts of the hull when one has to varnish or
> paint.... Not sure how much it costs, Comes in various widths....
>
> 72
>
> .mark
At 02:44 PM 12/7/01 +0000, Steve, G4GXL wrote:
>Built the VFO, switched on ... nothing !
>
>Checked all connections and all voltages OK, then noticed I had used
>0.01 ceramics instead of the 0.001 polys for C10 and C11.
Oooops!
>Changed the caps and it worked. Just removed a turn from L1 and
>changed C7 to 150pF (I'm using a 50k 10 turn tuning pot) and got
>102kHz tuning range starting at 2085kHz).
Great! Right on the money!!
>Can't really measure output so will leave C12 where it is for time-
>being.
>
>Will also have to postpone 'happy dance'.
Glad you have that much working Steve. On to the next section.
72 and thanks for the feedback,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Congrats Steve - will do a happy dance in your honor.
Onto the DBM - and do try to contain yourself when it's done and you
hear CW signals. ;)
73 de John, N1QO
g4gxl wrote:
>
> Built the VFO, switched on ... nothing !
>
> Checked all connections and all voltages OK, then noticed I had used
> 0.01 ceramics instead of the 0.001 polys for C10 and C11.
>
> Changed the caps and it worked. Just removed a turn from L1 and
> changed C7 to 150pF (I'm using a 50k 10 turn tuning pot) and got
> 102kHz tuning range starting at 2085kHz).
>
> Can't really measure output so will leave C12 where it is for time-
> being.
>
> Will also have to postpone 'happy dance'.
>
> 73 Steve G4GXL
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comFellow builders,
>The tape that comes to mind is used in the marine business. It is masking
>tape like, blue in color but the adhesive does not get sticky when left out
>in the sun. It doesn't seem to matter how long it is on, it comes off
>clean.
>It is used to mask off parts of the hull when one has to varnish or
>paint.... Not sure how much it costs, Comes in various widths....
As a matter of fact, a rep from 3M gave a presentation to me Thursday and
showed me a "new" blue tape that they are now offering. It is 3M #2080.
Their normal blue tape is suppose to be able to be safely left on a surface
for 7-14 days. The 2080 is suppose to be safe for 60 days.
It should be available in stores that sell tape for painters. You could try
a local Sherwin-Williams store. Good luck!
Tom
N0DSP
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.aspAt 09:48 PM 12/6/01 -0500, Lee wrote:
>Jim -
>I thought that if I got the directions wrong, say the primary was connected
>correctly, but the secondary connection that wasn't supposed to go to ground
>did go to ground, that would put the windings out of phase.
Well, you still have to follow the schematics, and ground those
leads that are shown grounded, and get those that aren't grounded
soldered to the correct node, but other than that, you can't do it
wrong.
> Wasn't this
>several folks problem with the "one turn" transformer?
Well that's a bit of a different animal. In the case of T6, all
of the windings need to be correctly phased or the amplifier
won't work. But, the schematic shows the correct phasing with
the black dots on each of the windings. Those black dots
are the start of each winding, and as long as they all start
through the toroid core in the same direction, you'll have the
phasing correct.
In all cases, the schematics were drawn with the transformers shown
with the smaller of the winding number being the start, and the
larger number being the finish of the winding. So on T3 for
example, 1 is a start, 2 is the finish of the primary. 3 is
the start, and 4 the finish of the first secondary. 5 is the
start, and 6 is the finish of the other secondary. Of course,
all three strands of wire are twisted together at approximately
8 turns per inch, and then wound on the core, but the windings
are still there with a start and a finish.
I hope that all makes sense.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In a message dated Fri, 7 Dec 2001 1:34:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <
jokortge@prodigy.net> writes:
snip
> In all cases, the schematics were drawn with the transformers shown
> with the smaller of the winding number being the start, and the
> larger number being the finish of the winding. So on T3 for
> example, 1 is a start, 2 is the finish of the primary. 3 is
> the start, and 4 the finish of the first secondary. 5 is the
> start, and 6 is the finish of the other secondary. Of course,
> all three strands of wire are twisted together at approximately
> 8 turns per inch, and then wound on the core, but the windings
> are still there with a start and a finish.
>
> I hope that all makes sense.
LOL - I am left handed, and habitually do the larger number windings first -- that way, all I have to do is think backwards! (The irony here is that I actually volunteered to wind all the toroids for a vision impared ham who was building a K2, and they worked.) When I did my first 2n2 rig, I carefully mimicked the drawings in QRPp -- oops. I will be forever grateful to Jim K. for his patient email replies to my befuddlement. Once he makes sense of a befuddled question, clear answers are forthcoming. Mike Maiorana of Elmer 101 is the same way. Two supurb elmers.
This time, I'm (slowly) doing the revised version and will be able to compare side by side.
-MAC-
AF4PS
Way to go Steve!
I'm working to get to where you are, but life keeps hitting me with
little stumbling blocks.
I keep my soldering station at the ready so when I get 15 minutes
spare I can sit down and solder in a part.
So far it's working, just slowly.
----- Original Message -----
From: "g4gxl" <g4gxl@btinternet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 9:44 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] VFO Done !
> Built the VFO, switched on ... nothing !
>
> Checked all connections and all voltages OK, then noticed I had used
> 0.01 ceramics instead of the 0.001 polys for C10 and C11.
>
> Changed the caps and it worked. Just removed a turn from L1 and
> changed C7 to 150pF (I'm using a 50k 10 turn tuning pot) and got
> 102kHz tuning range starting at 2085kHz).
>
> Can't really measure output so will leave C12 where it is for time-
> being.
>
> Will also have to postpone 'happy dance'.
>
> 73 Steve G4GXL
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> Promise to Quit
> Nicotrol will help
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> --------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
Jim et al -
I'm snorting away proving that I am just as bad with Manhattan pads as I am
with the Islander pads.
Confusion regarding parts for the RF amplifier circuit following the DBM.
The schematic has a D8 that is not identified in the BOM. John included two
MVAM19s for D8 and D9 in his miscellaneous parts kit; however, don't the two
little arrows mean that D8 is an LED? I notice that D14 and D15 in the VBW
also look they are LEDs. Do I have something screwed up here? In any case,
I KNOW that there isn't a D8 in the BOM. Part of my confusion may be
because in the back of my mind I remember reading about successful builders
saying something about twinkling diodes (or was that stars... maybe it is
time for a break!)
The DBM construction has really been trying my patience. It looks as tho
the 1 turn on T6 will have to travel a little over an inch to get to the
emitter of Q4. Will this be OK, or should I begin the tear-out now?
Are we having fun yet? YES!!!!!
73 de Lee. KM4YY
If you don't know what to do when you see a "C:\", then
you probably shouldn't have a computer.
-- Lee Mairs (many, many times in the early '90s)
|
1130|1130|2001-12-07 17:12:18|kaytwoyoudee|2N2/6 receiver section|Hi Jim (anyone else, feel free to chime in also)
Are the 2 BP filters in the 2N2/6 receiver section so sharp that I
would have difficulty aligning them without a spectrum analyzer or
scope? Should I also notice an apparent increase in background noise
(in the 7MHz rig) when I switch the transverter on?
What I have:
I seem to be oscillating
I seem to be tripling (around 43.640MHz max.)
Can't hear anything, even when applying the 2N2/6 test generator to
the primary or secondary of the 2nd BP filter.
I have determined that all toroids in the receiver are wound with the
correct number of turns, and are wired and phased correctly.
The RF amp transistor is being fed Vcc correctly.
All parts are per the construction article in FDIM 2000 and QRPp.
Are there any corrections to the above articles?
I haven't tried the transmit section yet, I'll cross that bridge
later!
TNX fer any help es 72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
|
1131|1118|2001-12-07 17:15:48|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: VFO Done !|At 07:55 AM 12/7/01 -0800, .mark wrote:
> > Built the VFO, switched on ... nothing !
> >
> > Checked all connections and all voltages OK, then noticed I had used
> > 0.01 ceramics instead of the 0.001 polys for C10 and C11.
>
>I was wondering this myself.... Other than temp compensated caps, why does
>what they are made of make a difference??
Well first off, the issue above isn't what they are made of, but
what size was used. The wrong size by a factor of 10 is a bit
outside of the tolerance range of the design, that's why it
didn't work. As for what type of capacitor was chosen, that's
simple. I had a bag of 2% polyester 0.001 uF capacitors when
I built the first 2N2/40. The VFO was very stable using those,
so they stayed. Most polyester caps have a rather small and
predictable temperature coefficient also, so not a bad choice
for a VFO. Could ceramic NPO capacitors have been used? Certainly,
but I didn't have any of those above 330pF at the time. Could
silver mica caps have been used? Maybe. While very low loss,
they are also quite unpredictable with regard to temperature.
Some go up in capacity with rising temperature, others go down.
Who wants that in a reproducible VFO design. But, they
would be great for Tx output low pass filter capacitors. That's
what I've got in mine actually. Another alternative for the VFO could
have been polystyrene. In fact, one was used in the design to
do the final compensation for temperature drift. Polystyrene
have a negative temperature coefficient of 150 PPM, so are
very predictable. Get the right size capacitor, and it will
cancel out the positive temperature coefficient of a T50-7
toroid with 44 turns of wire on it.
> Inquiring minds want to know! :)
Hope I gave you enought to chew on! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 02:13 PM 12/7/01 -0500, Pat, KF4LMZ wrote:
>Hello Jim,
>
>I'm still trying to figure out the problem with my receiver front end.
>Could I possibly have the variable caps positioned wrong?
Positioned wrong, probably not. Connected wrong, certainly a
possibility.
> On TC1 & TC2, I
>have the 2 common pins of the cap going to ground and the wiper (center
>pin) of the cap going to the pads.
I'm not sure that they are mechanically set up that way Pat. My
guess is that one end and a side terminal are common, and the
other end terminal is the other end of the capacitor. If I'm right,
then the way you have them soldered in is basically shorting out the
whole capacitor, and the inductor to boot.
> (Hope that makes sense)
Yes it does.
> On TC9, I
>have the wiper (center pin) of the cap going to the pad with D25 & D26 and
>the common pins of the cap going to the pad to Receive Antenna In.
Same problem if the center isn't one end of the capacitor. The
input to the receiver is shorted to ground.
> I also
>noticed on the latest file (parts layout diagram) posted to the yahoo
>groups page that TC9 is shown with one side of the cap going to ground. Is
>that correct?
Gosh, I wonder what file you are looking at. TC9 should go between
the Antenna input pad, which will eventually get hooked to the
Tx low pass filter, and the other end goes to the pad containing
diodes D25, D26, and one end of L11. It isn't grounded anywhere, and
won't work if it is. TC9 and L11 form a series tuned circuit which
will get tuned to 7 MHz. The two diodes short out the signal on
the common end of TC9 and L11 when the transmitter is on the air,
keeping the transmit power from destroying the RF amplifier.
> If so, I read the schematic wrong.
That may be......
> Thanks once again! I
>could never do this without your help!!
Maybe not, but by the end of this project, you will have learned
a lot about electronics and how your 2N2/40 transceiver works.
Not a bad deal at all! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....maybe someone on the list who has some of the 3 terminal
trimmer capacitors can stick an ohmmeter on one and tell us
how the 3 terminals are connected. I'd sure like to know.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 02:53 PM 12/7/01 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>Jim et al -
>I'm snorting away proving that I am just as bad with Manhattan pads as I am
>with the Islander pads.
Well at least you are consistent Lee! :-)
>Confusion regarding parts for the RF amplifier circuit following the DBM.
The RF amplifier following the DBM is the Post-Mixer amplifier. What
is confusing about that circuit?
>The schematic has a D8 that is not identified in the BOM.
Yes it it. It is shown as item 50, a 2 volt LED. It doesn't
say LED in the BOM, but it shows it as a LED in the schematic of
the RF amplifier.
> John included two
>MVAM19s for D8 and D9 in his miscellaneous parts kit; however, don't the two
>little arrows mean that D8 is an LED?
Yes, the symbol with two little arrows is an LED. BUT, D8 and D9
that you are referring too is in the OLD schematic; those are the
two varicap diodes that tune the filter. In the new schematics,
that pair would be D9 and D10. I'd like to suggest that you work
either with the old schematic, or the new, but not both. You
seem to be getting parts from one into the other, and really
confusing yourself. My suggestion is to use the new schematics
only, since they are more current, and represent how most of the
2N2/40 gang are/will be building their rigs.
> I notice that D14 and D15 in the VBW
>also look they are LEDs.
They are, and are also in the new BOM under item 50. BTW, the
BOM is two pages, so make sure you scroll down to see the second
page.
> Do I have something screwed up here?
Yup....you do.
> In any case,
>I KNOW that there isn't a D8 in the BOM.
I beg to differ.
> Part of my confusion may be
>because in the back of my mind I remember reading about successful builders
>saying something about twinkling diodes (or was that stars... maybe it is
>time for a break!)
No, they were refering to the two diodes, D14 and D15 in the VBW
filter. Many of them also mentioned D8 in the receive RF amplifier
lighting up when they put power to the rig. There are 3 LEDs in
the new design, so plenty of light inside. It keeps the Mojo
working!!
>The DBM construction has really been trying my patience. It looks as tho
>the 1 turn on T6 will have to travel a little over an inch to get to the
>emitter of Q4. Will this be OK, or should I begin the tear-out now?
I think you have the DBM confused with the RF amp. The RF amp
uses the three winding transformer, T6. The 1 turn should be kept
as short as is practical, but 1 inch to get to the emitter of Q4
should not be a problem. Several inches might be though. I don't
know the limits of that design.
The DBM follows the RF amp, and uses T3, T4, and D1-D4.
>Are we having fun yet? YES!!!!!
Good. That's the attitude.
72 and keep plugging away. You're doing fine.
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> > On TC1 & TC2, I
> >have the 2 common pins of the cap going to ground and the wiper (center
> >pin) of the cap going to the pads.
>
> I'm not sure that they are mechanically set up that way Pat. My
> guess is that one end and a side terminal are common, and the
> other end terminal is the other end of the capacitor. If I'm right,
> then the way you have them soldered in is basically shorting out the
> whole capacitor, and the inductor to boot.
>
>
> PS....maybe someone on the list who has some of the 3 terminal
> trimmer capacitors can stick an ohmmeter on one and tell us
> how the 3 terminals are connected. I'd sure like to know.
I have TC's with three terminals. You can see one in this image of my
vfo;
http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/vfo-closeup-1.jpg as viewed in the image, the center pin in the rear is one end and the
two on the sides connect to opposite sides, so if one side is at 10pf,
the other is at 85pf (or whatever the span is). So I only connect one
side.
73 de John, N1QO
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
>
>
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--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHey Lee,
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> Jim et al -
> I'm snorting away proving that I am just as bad with Manhattan pads as I am
> with the Islander pads.
>
> Confusion regarding parts for the RF amplifier circuit following the DBM.
> The schematic has a D8 that is not identified in the BOM. John included two
> MVAM19s for D8 and D9 in his miscellaneous parts kit; however, don't the two
The D8/D9 designation I used was from the original BOM/plans. My parts
kit included two MV1662's and one MVAM109.
D8 on the new schematic is a 2v LED. D14 and D15 are LED's too and
included in the filter kits that Jim put together.
You'll need the LED's - and they do look great!
73 de John, N1QO
> little arrows mean that D8 is an LED? I notice that D14 and D15 in the VBW
> also look they are LEDs. Do I have something screwed up here? In any case,
> I KNOW that there isn't a D8 in the BOM. Part of my confusion may be
> because in the back of my mind I remember reading about successful builders
> saying something about twinkling diodes (or was that stars... maybe it is
> time for a break!)
>
> The DBM construction has really been trying my patience. It looks as tho
> the 1 turn on T6 will have to travel a little over an inch to get to the
> emitter of Q4. Will this be OK, or should I begin the tear-out now?
>
> Are we having fun yet? YES!!!!!
> 73 de Lee. KM4YY
>
> If you don't know what to do when you see a "C:\", then
> you probably shouldn't have a computer.
> -- Lee Mairs (many, many times in the early '90s)
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThanks Jim. I stand corrected. I found the LEDs on the latest BOM.
> confusing yourself. My suggestion is to use the new schematics
> only, since they are more current, and represent how most of the
> 2N2/40 gang are/will be building their rigs.
Roger. I only refer to the old schematic to verify values as sent by the
Capacitor kit guys and John's kit. I'd been using the drawings for the
first three stages to help with my own parts placement. The post-mixer
amplifier showed me the evil of my ways as I didn't realize until to late
that there had been a major change in that circuit. Only using the latest
schematic now.
Got lots of LEDs in the junk box. How do I determine if it is a 2 volt LED?
73 de Lee, km4yy
Remember: all harddisks are the same in size: 7MB free.
-- Nils Faerber
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Parts confusion in Stage 3
> At 02:53 PM 12/7/01 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>
> >Jim et al -
> >I'm snorting away proving that I am just as bad with Manhattan pads as I
am
> >with the Islander pads.
>
> Well at least you are consistent Lee! :-)
>
>
> >Confusion regarding parts for the RF amplifier circuit following the DBM.
>
> The RF amplifier following the DBM is the Post-Mixer amplifier. What
> is confusing about that circuit?
>
> >The schematic has a D8 that is not identified in the BOM.
>
> Yes it it. It is shown as item 50, a 2 volt LED. It doesn't
> say LED in the BOM, but it shows it as a LED in the schematic of
> the RF amplifier.
>
> > John included two
> >MVAM19s for D8 and D9 in his miscellaneous parts kit; however, don't the
two
> >little arrows mean that D8 is an LED?
>
> Yes, the symbol with two little arrows is an LED. BUT, D8 and D9
> that you are referring too is in the OLD schematic; those are the
> two varicap diodes that tune the filter. In the new schematics,
> that pair would be D9 and D10. I'd like to suggest that you work
> either with the old schematic, or the new, but not both. You
> seem to be getting parts from one into the other, and really
> confusing yourself. My suggestion is to use the new schematics
> only, since they are more current, and represent how most of the
> 2N2/40 gang are/will be building their rigs.
>
> > I notice that D14 and D15 in the VBW
> >also look they are LEDs.
>
> They are, and are also in the new BOM under item 50. BTW, the
> BOM is two pages, so make sure you scroll down to see the second
> page.
>
> > Do I have something screwed up here?
>
> Yup....you do.
>
> > In any case,
> >I KNOW that there isn't a D8 in the BOM.
>
> I beg to differ.
>
> > Part of my confusion may be
> >because in the back of my mind I remember reading about successful
builders
> >saying something about twinkling diodes (or was that stars... maybe it is
> >time for a break!)
>
> No, they were refering to the two diodes, D14 and D15 in the VBW
> filter. Many of them also mentioned D8 in the receive RF amplifier
> lighting up when they put power to the rig. There are 3 LEDs in
> the new design, so plenty of light inside. It keeps the Mojo
> working!!
>
>
> >The DBM construction has really been trying my patience. It looks as tho
> >the 1 turn on T6 will have to travel a little over an inch to get to the
> >emitter of Q4. Will this be OK, or should I begin the tear-out now?
>
> I think you have the DBM confused with the RF amp. The RF amp
> uses the three winding transformer, T6. The 1 turn should be kept
> as short as is practical, but 1 inch to get to the emitter of Q4
> should not be a problem. Several inches might be though. I don't
> know the limits of that design.
>
> The DBM follows the RF amp, and uses T3, T4, and D1-D4.
>
>
> >Are we having fun yet? YES!!!!!
>
> Good. That's the attitude.
>
> 72 and keep plugging away. You're doing fine.
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Jim es Gang!
Section 7 (TXLO, Mixer& Amp) is done and works per advertised - WOOO HOOO!!! Only the last section to go and another 2N2 is born! Puts out a great sig and I am sooooo pumped! If all goes well, I should be QRV Sunday sometime (promised the G/F that Saturday would be "her" day, I even get to cook dinner!) in the afternoon or evening! BTW one of my power supplies went south today and even it was no great loss, I discovered that this nice metal case - ventilated of course - was just a tad over 5x7 inches! Looks like a new case for the 2N2 was discovered!
Anyway, thanks to Jim and many others here for walking me thru this project and I have learned more than I thought I would!
72 es enjoying a rosin buzz
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1138|1033|2001-12-07 20:41:32|w6ki|Re: DB Mixer problems - Success!|This is just an update to report on my problems with the AM broadcast
band interference that plagued me when I was trying to test the RF
amp and DB mixer. I was using alligator clips spread all over the
place to hook everything together. Apparently, it was the second
harmonic mixing with the 540 - 760 KHz signals, so Jim suggested
shielding to help identify the problem.
I scrounged a two piece metal case and mounted the board inside, ran
the power through a feed-through cap, and fed the DB output to a
general coverage receiver (at 4.195 MHz) through shielded coax from a
BNC mounted on the case. With no antenna connected, I was able to
tune across the band and hear nothing! A great improvement over my
previous test.
When I connected a random wire antenna to the 2N2-40 input filter I
heard some nice CW signals and only a small amount of AM from one 50
KW flamethrower.
I think that when I use a resonant antenna or a tuner in front of the
reciever input my problem will completely disappear.
BTW, the case I found was from an "antique" high end modem. It's huge
at 10" x 10" x 2.5", heavy steel, and it has a nice string of LEDs
mounted across the front. I'll see if I can use a couple of them for
the VBW filter.
Now I'll go on to the IF amp and filter. I'm getting there, but oh so
slowly! :-0
Thanks also to Dennis and Nick Kennedy for their comments and
suggestions.
Jim, K8IQY Wrote:
> I'd try that, but do it the easy way. Put the rig into a heavy
> plastic bag, like a freezer bag to insulate it from the outside
> world. Then wrap the whole assembly in aluminum foil to see
> if that helps with the feedthrough problem. It might not make
> it all go away, but at least we might be able to comfirm it
> is the 2nd harmonic of the VFO that is causing the problem.
> I have a 5 KW BC station about 8 miles away, and have never
> heard it, even with the rig out of the case. But 50 KW next
> door might be a totally different animal.
>
> 72 and let us know what you find with further experiments,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
At 05:56 PM 12/7/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>I have TC's with three terminals. You can see one in this image of my
>vfo;
>
>http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/vfo-closeup-1.jpg
>
>as viewed in the image, the center pin in the rear is one end and the
>two on the sides connect to opposite sides, so if one side is at 10pf,
>the other is at 85pf (or whatever the span is). So I only connect one
>side.
That's still confusing to me John, as it would suggest a differential
arrangement. If they are really built that way, I am impressed. So,
do an old guy a favor, and take an ohmmeter and check out those
three terminals anyway for me. I just gotta believe two of them
are connected together, but maybe not. I'd sure like to know.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hello! I placed a few....Well, a lot of pictures in a folder called
KC5HAC at the website. I will remove most of these "very" soon (they
took up more space than I thought they would) but I thought that a keen
eye might spot a mistake. Its a long shot as the pictures are not the
best and the layout might be hard to follow as sometimes I boxed myself
in a tight spot and just used a short jumper wire to a clear spot and
kept going. I have added the RX wire from the RX/TX driver to the Audio
mute and also added the VCC to the RX/TX driver since the pictures were
taken, but that is all that I have done. I do plan on changing the way I
have the 1 turn on T6 (NEW 2n2/40+) hopefully this weekend. The VFO
works and I do have a low hiss when I hook up the speaker, but very low
and the volume Pot 3 (NEW) does not seem to make any difference.
Thanks!
James
KC5HAC
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Jim,
I used an ohmmeter to verify the terminals on the trimmer capacitors. On
TC1 & TC2, the two common terminals are connected to ground. I tried
lifting one of the common terminals, but it did not change things. The
other terminal is connected to a pad. TC9 has the two common terminals
connected to the pad with Receive Antenna In and the other terminal
connected to the pad with D25, D26, & L11. I'm pretty sure I have the
trimmer caps connected correctly. I've double checked my primary and
secondary connections for T1 and T2. I also forgot to mention that
turning POT 5 (RF Gain) seems to have no effect. The wiper is connected to
pin1 of T1, High side to ground, Low side to one end of L11. I'm pretty
frustrated at this point, but not ready to give up just yet!! I'll keep
looking.
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
> From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> To: pyork@cetlink.net
> Cc: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2n2-40: TC1, TC2, & TC9
> Date: Friday, December 07, 2001 5:12 PM
>
> At 02:13 PM 12/7/01 -0500, Pat, KF4LMZ wrote:
>
> >Hello Jim,
> >
> >I'm still trying to figure out the problem with my receiver front end.
> >Could I possibly have the variable caps positioned wrong?
>
> Positioned wrong, probably not. Connected wrong, certainly a
> possibility.
>
> > On TC1 & TC2, I
> >have the 2 common pins of the cap going to ground and the wiper (center
> >pin) of the cap going to the pads.
>
> I'm not sure that they are mechanically set up that way Pat. My
> guess is that one end and a side terminal are common, and the
> other end terminal is the other end of the capacitor. If I'm right,
> then the way you have them soldered in is basically shorting out the
> whole capacitor, and the inductor to boot.
>
> > (Hope that makes sense)
>
> Yes it does.
>
> > On TC9, I
> >have the wiper (center pin) of the cap going to the pad with D25 & D26
and
> >the common pins of the cap going to the pad to Receive Antenna In.
>
> Same problem if the center isn't one end of the capacitor. The
> input to the receiver is shorted to ground.
>
> > I also
> >noticed on the latest file (parts layout diagram) posted to the yahoo
> >groups page that TC9 is shown with one side of the cap going to ground.
Is
> >that correct?
>
> Gosh, I wonder what file you are looking at. TC9 should go between
> the Antenna input pad, which will eventually get hooked to the
> Tx low pass filter, and the other end goes to the pad containing
> diodes D25, D26, and one end of L11. It isn't grounded anywhere, and
> won't work if it is. TC9 and L11 form a series tuned circuit which
> will get tuned to 7 MHz. The two diodes short out the signal on
> the common end of TC9 and L11 when the transmitter is on the air,
> keeping the transmit power from destroying the RF amplifier.
>
> > If so, I read the schematic wrong.
>
> That may be......
>
> > Thanks once again! I
> >could never do this without your help!!
>
> Maybe not, but by the end of this project, you will have learned
> a lot about electronics and how your 2N2/40 transceiver works.
> Not a bad deal at all! :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS....maybe someone on the list who has some of the 3 terminal
> trimmer capacitors can stick an ohmmeter on one and tell us
> how the 3 terminals are connected. I'd sure like to know.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs"
wrote:
> Got lots of LEDs in the junk box. How do I determine if it is a 2
volt LED?
>
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
Lee -- KM4YY:
I check my LEDs with the "diode" function on my digital volt meter.
Just clip the LED in and the meter reads me the voltage drop. My
LEDs check out at about 1.7 volts.
73,
Jake -- N4UYJake -
Thanks for the tip. Just yesterday I was wondering what the .573 reading
was meaning when I was checking diodes. Glad to know that it is the voltage
drop.
The LED is the last component for the DBM and post DBM rf amplifier. Guess
its time to find out whether Stage 3 works. Not much confidence in this
part of the construction - mostly related to whether the toroids were
installed correctly...
73 de Lee, km4yy
Volumes might be written upon the impiety of the pious.
--Herbert Spencer
----- Original Message -----
From: "n4uy" <n4uy@arrl.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2001 7:36 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Parts confusion in Stage 3
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
>
> > Got lots of LEDs in the junk box. How do I determine if it is a 2
> volt LED?
> >
> > 73 de Lee, km4yy
>
> Lee -- KM4YY:
>
> I check my LEDs with the "diode" function on my digital volt meter.
> Just clip the LED in and the meter reads me the voltage drop. My
> LEDs check out at about 1.7 volts.
>
> 73,
>
> Jake -- N4UY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
At 12:36 PM 12/8/01 +0000, Lee, km4yy wrote:
>--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
>
> > Got lots of LEDs in the junk box. How do I determine if it is a 2
>volt LED?
Connect each one to a 12 volt source through a 5.6K resistor and
measure the voltage drop across the lit diode with a DMM. That
setup will be putting 2 ma. through the diode, the same current
they run when in circuit. 2 volts is the desired value, but anything
about or below by 0.1 volt or so will work fine.
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Gang,
In my exuberance last nite, I forgot to mention that I think I found an error in the book on the diagram for Section 7. The schematics (both old and new) show a 330 ohm resistor going to the collector of Q14 (new) in the TXLO. The layout on page 35 of the book omits this resistor and I do not see it in the errata sheet. And I found out the TXLO doesnt work good without it!
72
Dennis
P.S. Got permission to continue building today, so may be QRV this evening!!!!
|
1146|1146|2001-12-08 13:45:12|Lee Mairs|Re: Checking LEDs for 2volts|This was an interesting drill. I made a test jig and looked at all the LEDs
in my junk box. I only found two green LEDs and a very small red LED that
indicated 1.9-2.1 VDC, and the green ones wouldn't light with that small
current. Most of my LEDs (red) dropped between 1.5 and 1.6VDC.
73 de Lee, km4yy
Never underestimate the power of very stupid people in large groups.
--anonymous
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2001 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Parts confusion in Stage 3
> At 12:36 PM 12/8/01 +0000, Lee, km4yy wrote:
>
> >--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> >
> > > Got lots of LEDs in the junk box. How do I determine if it is a 2
> >volt LED?
>
> Connect each one to a 12 volt source through a 5.6K resistor and
> measure the voltage drop across the lit diode with a DMM. That
> setup will be putting 2 ma. through the diode, the same current
> they run when in circuit. 2 volts is the desired value, but anything
> about or below by 0.1 volt or so will work fine.
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I seem to be having a problem with linearity on the VFO. Here are my
Frequency reading for various POT positions:
FREQ POT
==== ====
2.085 0.12
2.095 0.375
2.105 0.685
2.115 1.2
2.125 1.495
2.135 2.12
2.145 3.14
2.155 4.76
2.165 7.44
2.175 7.68
2.1792 10.00 <== Max Frequency of VFO
2.185 See above.
As you can see the tuning isn't linear from one end of the pot to the
other. It is very sensitive at the bottom end, expanding as you go
up the dial. Is this normal? Is this the way it is supposed to work?
Test equipment is pretty good here so I can test it well if there are
any suggestions.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|
1148|1147|2001-12-08 14:30:45|John Wagner|Re: Linearity of VFO|Do you have R10 (# from new schematic) connected on the POT? I think
that's there for this purpose. My tuning is pretty linear (near as I can
tell, I haven't actually measured it).
Also, I'm finding that being able to tune up past 7.060 to be pretty
much a waste. Anyone considered dropping the width of the VFO to
increase the sensitivity of the tuning?
73 de John, N1QO
adverse_yaw wrote:
>
> Gang,
> I seem to be having a problem with linearity on the VFO. Here are my
> Frequency reading for various POT positions:
>
> FREQ POT
> ==== ====
> 2.085 0.12
> 2.095 0.375
> 2.105 0.685
> 2.115 1.2
> 2.125 1.495
> 2.135 2.12
> 2.145 3.14
> 2.155 4.76
> 2.165 7.44
> 2.175 7.68
> 2.1792 10.00 <== Max Frequency of VFO
> 2.185 See above.
>
> As you can see the tuning isn't linear from one end of the pot to the
> other. It is very sensitive at the bottom end, expanding as you go
> up the dial. Is this normal? Is this the way it is supposed to work?
> Test equipment is pretty good here so I can test it well if there are
> any suggestions.
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
>
>
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>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWay to go Dennis - be sure to post if you're QRV tonight and I'll try to
look for ya on my 2n2-40+.
BTW, I always find it easier to beg forgiveness then ask permission. ;)
73 de John, N1QO
wb0wao wrote:
>
> Gang,
> In my exuberance last nite, I forgot to mention that I think I found an error in the book on the diagram for Section 7. The schematics (both old and new) show a 330 ohm resistor going to the collector of Q14 (new) in the TXLO. The layout on page 35 of the book omits this resistor and I do not see it in the errata sheet. And I found out the TXLO doesnt work good without it!
>
> 72
>
> Dennis
>
> P.S. Got permission to continue building today, so may be QRV this evening!!!!
>
>
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>
>
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--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi Kevin,
Another thing you can do is to replace R10 (new diagram) with a fixed
resistor in series with a trim pot to give you an overall range of,
say, 10K to 25K. That's what I did at Jim's suggestion and it yields
more ability to adjust for linearity. Tuning TC3 at the low end and
TC4 at the upper end of the VFO range should allow you to adjust to
100kHz of band coverage.
72 es GL,
Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "adverse_yaw" wrote:
> Gang,
> I seem to be having a problem with linearity on the VFO. Here are
my
> Frequency reading for various POT positions:
>
> FREQ POT
> ==== ====
> 2.085 0.12
> 2.095 0.375
> 2.105 0.685
> 2.115 1.2
> 2.125 1.495
> 2.135 2.12
> 2.145 3.14
> 2.155 4.76
> 2.165 7.44
> 2.175 7.68
> 2.1792 10.00 <== Max Frequency of VFO
> 2.185 See above.
>
> As you can see the tuning isn't linear from one end of the pot to
the
> other. It is very sensitive at the bottom end, expanding as you go
> up the dial. Is this normal? Is this the way it is supposed to
work?
> Test equipment is pretty good here so I can test it well if there
are
> any suggestions.
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
Jim es group,
I am pleased to announce the "birth" of another 2N2/40+. All tests are done and it is putting out around 2 watts. Now, I will be hanging around 7.053 for the next half hour sending CQ! Then it is dinner time! Should be on later in the evening for a bit. Jim, need the info for my "birth certificate" hi hi.
72 es WOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOO
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1152|848|2001-12-08 18:05:23|john@wagner-usa.net|Re: IT IS ALIVE!!!!|Dennis es grp;
I will be on around 0200z this evening with my 2n2-40. Will aim for the
general area of 7.040 - 7.050 - would like to work as many on this list as
possible with or without their 2n2-40.
Hope to hear you guys!
73 de John, N1QO
At 09:30 PM 12/8/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim es group,
> I am pleased to announce the "birth" of another 2N2/40+. All tests are
> done and it is putting out around 2 watts. Now, I will be hanging around
> 7.053 for the next half hour sending CQ! Then it is dinner time! Should
> be on later in the evening for a bit. Jim, need the info for my "birth
> certificate" hi hi.
>
>72 es WOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOO
>
>Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hey gang,
Made my first QSO with the 2N2/40+ with KB3ERI in PA. Said the rig sounded great! Doin' da happy dance for sure now!!! Sidetone cleaned my ears out tho! Researched back thru the messages and will do the mods Jim suggested to see if I can tame it. Gonna have some fun with this rig, I can tell you!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1154|1154|2001-12-09 07:36:00|wb0wao|Sidetone Still LOUD!|Jim es gang,
I did the mods from an earlier post (#827) with the addition of 10uF to the collector to ground of Q21, replaced D18 with the 1N5817, and C68 is a 10uF as well. It did help some, but it is still REALLY loud! The "thump" seems to be greatly diminished tho. Played with R40 some, but even getting up to 3.5M didnt have much effect. Suggestions?
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1155|1153|2001-12-09 09:06:20|John Wagner|Re: First QSO!|Great job Dennis!!! Wish I could have heard ya. I was on for a bit with
my 2n2/40+ last night, worked a few guys and that's about it.
73 de John, N1QO
wb0wao wrote:
>
> Hey gang,
> Made my first QSO with the 2N2/40+ with KB3ERI in PA. Said the rig sounded great! Doin' da happy dance for sure now!!! Sidetone cleaned my ears out tho! Researched back thru the messages and will do the mods Jim suggested to see if I can tame it. Gonna have some fun with this rig, I can tell you!
>
> 72
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comYou can remove R40 and it will still be loud. I'm in the same boat and
still fiddling around trying to come up with a solution. I looked at the
SW30+ and the sidetone is provided in a similiar fashion, so I'm not
sure why it's not working better.
73 de John, N1QO
wb0wao wrote:
>
> Jim es gang,
> I did the mods from an earlier post (#827) with the addition of 10uF to the collector to ground of Q21, replaced D18 with the 1N5817, and C68 is a 10uF as well. It did help some, but it is still REALLY loud! The "thump" seems to be greatly diminished tho. Played with R40 some, but even getting up to 3.5M didnt have much effect. Suggestions?
>
> 72
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 12:35 PM 12/9/01 +0000, Dennis - WB0WAO wrote:
>Jim es gang,
> I did the mods from an earlier post (#827) with the addition of 10uF
> to the collector to ground of Q21, replaced D18 with the 1N5817, and C68
> is a 10uF as well. It did help some, but it is still REALLY loud! The
> "thump" seems to be greatly diminished tho. Played with R40 some, but
> even getting up to 3.5M didnt have much effect. Suggestions?
Only one other thing you can try to reduce the thump a bit more, and
that is to add 22uF on the Tx line somewhere. I've got mine placed
in the innards of the rig, close to where the Tx line starts driving
the switched Tx stages. You might have to reduce the Q21 collector
cap and C68 to something smaller though with that addition.
As for the loud tone with R40 really high, that's seems to be the
common problem that other are having that I don't see in my rig.
I can't for the life of me figure out where the audio is getting
through the 2N7000 to the amplifier stage. One thing you might
try is adding a pair of 1N34A diodes from the drain of Q13 to ground.
One should be placed with the anode to ground, and the other with the
cathode to ground. Any really strong signals then should get
shunted to ground, instead of being passed through the 2N7000 switch.
Also, make sure that the diodes in the Rx T/R switch, D25 and D26
are good and installed correctly. Those do the signal limiting
in the front-end of the rig to control how much RF gets passed on
to the RF amp, and everything else downstream. It may be time to
bite the bullet and add a shunt JFET switch at that location, since
nothing else downstream seems to be working well. A J176 with
a positive control signal on its gate would probably do well there.
The control signal could come from the Key Line. One would also
have to have a 1M from the drain to gate to turn it on during transmit.
I think that's all OK. Shouldn't be doing design at the keyboard,
too many chances for error when things aren't thought out correctly.
72 and congrats on getting your rig done and making your first
contact with it. Contact Preston Douglas, WJ2V at
pdouglas12@aol.com for info on the 2N2/40 certificates.
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
John,
Sorry I missed ya too. Saw your posts about working AL7FS good job. Hope he will be on 40 again tonite!
I am at a loss too! I am looking at the mute circuitry in the SW-40+/SW-30+ rigs I build (kits from Dave) and his circuit has a 1 Meg resistor going from the Gate to Source, but I think the design is different between the two. I don't have the knowledge to suggest this as a fix.
Is it possible due to the PHYSICAL layout that the audio amp is getting signals from the TXLO/Mixer/Amp section? (I may have REALLY shown my ignorance there..HI HI!) Or could it be a ground loop? It is strange that it is not a "universal" problem, so that leads me to belive that it is not in the circuit, but in the construction of that circuit. I may be way off base here, but looking at the mods I made (and it did help clear up the thump), and at the circuit, I feel it has to be in the WAY I built it. Comments anyone?
72 es listening to SSTV? around 7.040????
Dennis
|
1159|90|2001-12-09 12:25:54|2n2-40@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to 2n2-40 ||
1160|90|2001-12-09 12:26:57|2n2-40@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to 2n2-40 ||
1161|1161|2001-12-09 12:36:51|k8iqy|J176 Rx Mute circuit available|Gang,
Too many of you were having a terrible time making
the 2N7000 Rx Mute work reasonably well. So I've
redesigned it to use a J176 JFET. That device is a
P FET, and commonly available from a number of sources.
Not sure Radio Shack carries it though, but Mouser
and Jameco do.
I've built the circuit into my rig, and made the necessary
changes to the Rx/Tx driver circuit to make this new FET
work, and minimize any popping or thumping. In my opinion,
it is much better than the 2N7000 implementation, but not
perfect. I still hear just a tiny bit of click on keydown,
but that seems to be the only artifact.
I've posted some revised schematics on the Yahoo web site
showing the details. Essentially, those two new pages that
I've posted are revised schematics for pages 2 and 4. You
will all get a message from Yahoo informing you that they are
there.
I'm hoping one or more of the group will build this version
of the Rx mute, and let me know how well it works for you.
My sample of one is a bit risky to be making the decision that
this version will replace the 2N7000 version. I'm still
really bothered why so may are seeing weird stuff going on
with the 2N7000 implementation, when it really works quite well
in my rig. But I'm will to try something else, so that the
2N2/40+ is as good as we can make it.
72 and keep building!!
Jim, K8IQY
|
1162|1132|2001-12-09 12:59:45|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2n2-40: TC1, TC2, & TC9|At 11:21 PM 12/7/01 -0500, Pat, KF4LMZ wrote:
>Jim,
>
>I used an ohmmeter to verify the terminals on the trimmer capacitors. On
>TC1 & TC2, the two common terminals are connected to ground. I tried
>lifting one of the common terminals, but it did not change things. The
>other terminal is connected to a pad. TC9 has the two common terminals
>connected to the pad with Receive Antenna In and the other terminal
>connected to the pad with D25, D26, & L11. I'm pretty sure I have the
>trimmer caps connected correctly. I've double checked my primary and
>secondary connections for T1 and T2.
Sure sounds like everything is as it ought to be Pat.
> I also forgot to mention that
>turning POT 5 (RF Gain) seems to have no effect.
Well it sure ought to. I wonder of either of the input diodes,
D25 or D26 are defective, and shorted. That would also explain
why no signal is getting through. You could lift the grounded
end of those two and see if that changes anything.
> The wiper is connected to
>pin1 of T1, High side to ground, Low side to one end of L11.
Well it might operate backwards, depending on which end is grounded,
but sure ought to vary the signal from a lot to a little at one
end or the other.
> I'm pretty
>frustrated at this point, but not ready to give up just yet!! I'll keep
>looking.
OK. I'm not sure what else to suggest at this point. I don't know if
a VE3DNL signal generator puts out enough power on a given harmonic
that you can measure it with an RF probe. If it did, you could use
that to put a signal into the front-end, and start checking for
continuity through the various stages.
72 and hopefully you'll find what is wrong soon.
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 05:22 PM 12/8/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Gang,
> In my exuberance last nite, I forgot to mention that I think I found an
> error in the book on the diagram for Section 7. The schematics (both old
> and new) show a 330 ohm resistor going to the collector of Q14 (new) in
> the TXLO. The layout on page 35 of the book omits this resistor and I do
> not see it in the errata sheet. And I found out the TXLO doesnt work
> good without it!
>
>72
>
>Dennis
Dennis,
You are correct, that resistor got left out of article, the reprint,
and off the errata sheet. I know how it got missed in the article
and reprint, those were unfortunately, not the correct schematics
that got published. Somehow, I missed it in the errata sheet
though, but will put an entry in my notebook to add that the next
time a do some web work.
As you found out, it really needs to be there, or lots of
stray RF gets into the power supply lines, and raises hob.
72 and thanks for the feedback,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 01:45 PM 12/8/01 -0500, you wrote:
>This was an interesting drill. I made a test jig and looked at all the LEDs
>in my junk box. I only found two green LEDs and a very small red LED that
>indicated 1.9-2.1 VDC, and the green ones wouldn't light with that small
>current. Most of my LEDs (red) dropped between 1.5 and 1.6VDC.
>73 de Lee, km4yy
That tells me that you only have 1 low currect LED in your
junk box. The LED that I specified is a 2 ma device at
2.0 volts. Most common LEDs are designed to run at 10 to
20 ma of current, so won't light up at 2 ma, and if they
do, they have a much smaller voltage drop, like 1.5 to 1.6
volts DC. The Mouser part number that I used in the VBW
filter kits is 512-HLMP1790, made by Fairchild. Very nice
small 2 volt, 2 ma green LED.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 07:24 PM 12/8/01 +0000, Kevin, KC8SFJ wrote:
>Gang,
>I seem to be having a problem with linearity on the VFO. Here are my
>Frequency reading for various POT positions:
>
>FREQ POT
>==== ====
>2.085 0.12
>2.095 0.375
>2.105 0.685
>2.115 1.2
>2.125 1.495
>2.135 2.12
>2.145 3.14
>2.155 4.76
>2.165 7.44
>2.175 7.68
>2.1792 10.00 <== Max Frequency of VFO
>2.185 See above.
>
>As you can see the tuning isn't linear from one end of the pot to the
>other. It is very sensitive at the bottom end, expanding as you go
>up the dial. Is this normal?
No, it isn't with R10 across the correct two pins of the tuning
pot. I'm guessing that you have it from the center to the wrong
end, or the value isn't correct for the pot that you are using.
The ideal R10 resistor has a value that will put the VFO frequency
at 2.135 MHz (7.050 MHz) when the pot is set at 5 turns. With the
pot that I used, 15K was the closest standard value to to that.
It isn't perfect, but darned close.
> Is this the way it is supposed to work?
No!!
>Test equipment is pretty good here so I can test it well if there are
>any suggestions.
See above.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 09:30 PM 12/8/01 +0000, Dennis - WB0WAO wrote:
>Jim es group,
> I am pleased to announce the "birth" of another 2N2/40+. All tests are
> done and it is putting out around 2 watts.
Waaaay to go Dennis! Another rig on the air with $2 worth of active
parts. Can't be beat! Can you get more than 2 watts out of it, or
is that the limit, or you don't care to push it any farther than
that?
> Now, I will be hanging around 7.053 for the next half hour sending
> CQ! Then it is dinner time! Should be on later in the evening for a
> bit. Jim, need the info for my "birth certificate" hi hi.
Sorry I had to go to a Christmas party. Would have been fun to look
for you.
72 and congrats again,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
TNX Jim,
I guarantee I would not have been successful if it wasn't for you and the rest of the group!!!
I throttled it back to 2w but I did have it cranked up during tuning and got around 2.5 to 2.75 watts! Didn't think I needed the extra 500mW or so..hi hi.
I will look at the mute circuit revision and scope it out. May make the change to see if it does the trick.
Should be on the air tonite for a while as well. May check into the Flying Pigs net!
72
Dennis
|
1168|1168|2001-12-09 17:57:51|Craig Johnson|VFO not oscillating in new 2N2-40|Hi. I just starting buiding a new 2N2-40. I built the RX/TX driver
and then the VFO. I powered it up, and after an intial problem with
a bad capacitor (C5 shorted to ground after a couple of minutes of
power - replaced it.) I was expecting to see a nice sine wave ouptut
on my scope. Unfortunatly, I am not seeing any oscillation.
I first looked for missing or miswired components. Appears OK.
I looked for cold solder joints, and reheated them.
I checked all DC voltages. This includes the voltages around D5 as
well as all (EBC) voltages of Q1, Q2 and Q3. They all are OK.
I lifted the grounded side of L1 and checked DC resistance to ground
from the "other" side of L1. It is not shorted. Put L1 back in and it
now shows zero ohms to ground. That says L1 is OK.
I checked C10 and C11. In each case I pulled one side off and
used my AADE L/C meter to measure the capacitance. Each measured
about 980pf. OK.
I pulled Q2 and Q3 out. They checked OK in my transistor/diode
checker so put 'em back in. (Q1 will take more surgery to take out.
Since all voltages are good, I assume it is OK.)
I pulled D7 out and checked it in a transistor/diode checker. OK.
Checked orientation as I put it back in ; anode (non-banded) side
to ground. OK.
Since D5 and D6 show the correct voltages, I am pretty confident
they are OK.
Now I am really puzzled.
I am almost ready to pull it all apart and start over. It seems like I could
just start with Q1 and a couple of parts around it to get the basic colpitts
oscillator circuit working, and then add the buffer, tuning capacitances , etc.
I hate to take this drastic action if I don't have to.
Any suggestions about how to tackle it?
Thanks.
73,
Craig, AAØZZ
|
1169|1169|2001-12-09 18:21:18|Craig Johnson|VFO Problem|Hi again. False alarm! I got it solved. That was quick, wasn't it?
I found I had a wrong size capacitor in for C9. I had a 4.7pf NPO
instead of a 47pf. Makes quite a difference.
I now get a nice 1.9v p-p output at pin 4 of T5, and about 1.0v p-p
at Tx VFO.
I had stared at that circuit board for many hours, and checked and
double checked it. Amazing how it works to write it down.
On to the next section.
Thanks.
73,
Craig, AAØZZ
|
1170|1170|2001-12-09 18:24:24|wb0wao|JFET ???|Jim -
I will have to wait 'till tomorrow nite to check out the new schematics, but was looking in the Mouser website and DigiKey website and could not find the J176 device! My Fairchild book has them as J176, but I was wondering if there is another designation for it, i.e. 2Nxxxx or something like that. I may have some around here and don't even know it!!
72
Dennis
|
1171|1171|2001-12-09 18:35:31|adverse_yaw|Setting TC5|Jim, et al;
I am a little confused as to what Freq to set the LO. Right now I
have it set to 4.91445 which is 750Hz below the crystal freq. I had
to add about 47pF in parallel with TC5 to get this low. Is this
correct? I am reading the frequency with an HP8640B on the top side
(ungrounded side) of TC5.
Let me know if I am in the ballpark.
Thanks and 73,
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|
1172|1169|2001-12-09 18:38:28|wb0wao|Re: VFO Problem|Craig,
Don't feel bad.. I did some "interesting" things building mine up too! Things that I learned were...
1. Check the toroid windings CAREFULLY. Real easy to get confused and "mis-solder" the leads.
2. Go back and surf thru the postings here and print out the "gems" (usually submitted by Jim or John) in answer to a question. Saved me a lot of questions and confusion.
3. If you don't have the NA5N book (reprint of the Winter 1998 issue of QRPp) by all means get it! It will save you LOTS of time in layout!
4. And don't hold back asking any question, more than likely someone else has the same problem/question!
5. Most Important - HAVE FUN!!!! I know I did! It is a great rig and a blast to put together!
72 es enjoy!!
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1173|1171|2001-12-09 19:14:52|Howard Kraus|Re: Setting TC5|Yes, you do wish to be below the center of the CW
filter. With the receiver on (and working) you should
be able to receive SSB, but should NOT be able to
understand it. That is, you will be receiving in the
USB mode, making LSB on 40M sound like so much
gobbledygook.
Is your TC5 an 11-70pf unit? Should be able to tune
below the xtal filter as is if so. Both of mine were
able to tune that far without modification.
GL es 72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- adverse_yaw <
adverseyaw@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> Jim, et al;
> I am a little confused as to what Freq to set the
> LO. Right now I
> have it set to 4.91445 which is 750Hz below the
> crystal freq. I had
> to add about 47pF in parallel with TC5 to get this
> low. Is this
> correct? I am reading the frequency with an HP8640B
> on the top side
> (ungrounded side) of TC5.
> Let me know if I am in the ballpark.
>
> Thanks and 73,
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
>
>
>
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http://greetings.yahoo.comAt 04:57 PM 12/9/01 -0600, Craig, AAØZZ wrote:
>Hi. I just starting buiding a new 2N2-40. I built the RX/TX driver
>and then the VFO. I powered it up, and after an intial problem with
>a bad capacitor (C5 shorted to ground after a couple of minutes of
> power - replaced it.) I was expecting to see a nice sine wave ouptut
>on my scope. Unfortunatly, I am not seeing any oscillation.
Not a good way to start a new project at all Craig. Bummer!!
>I first looked for missing or miswired components. Appears OK.
>
>I looked for cold solder joints, and reheated them.
>
>I checked all DC voltages. This includes the voltages around D5 as
>well as all (EBC) voltages of Q1, Q2 and Q3. They all are OK.
>
>I lifted the grounded side of L1 and checked DC resistance to ground
>from the "other" side of L1. It is not shorted. Put L1 back in and it
>now shows zero ohms to ground. That says L1 is OK.
>
>I checked C10 and C11. In each case I pulled one side off and
>used my AADE L/C meter to measure the capacitance. Each measured
>about 980pf. OK.
>
>I pulled Q2 and Q3 out. They checked OK in my transistor/diode
>checker so put 'em back in. (Q1 will take more surgery to take out.
>Since all voltages are good, I assume it is OK.)
Sounds like Q1 is OK in terms of DC characteristice, but
may be way down on gain, and that's why the circuit won't
oscillate. Another possibility is that C9 isn't a 47pF, but
something smaller, like 4.7pF. It probably won't oscillate
if that is the mistake.
>I pulled D7 out and checked it in a transistor/diode checker. OK.
>Checked orientation as I put it back in ; anode (non-banded) side
>to ground. OK.
Hmmmm. What kind of diode are you using for the varicap? The
MVAM109 is in a TO-92 type of case. You must be using something
else.
>Since D5 and D6 show the correct voltages, I am pretty confident
>they are OK.
I'd agree.
>Now I am really puzzled.
>
>I am almost ready to pull it all apart and start over. It seems like I could
>just start with Q1 and a couple of parts around it to get the basic colpitts
>oscillator circuit working,
That's very true. The way I build most VFO/VXO circuits. Get the
oscillator running, and then add the other stages.
> and then add the buffer, tuning capacitances , etc.
>I hate to take this drastic action if I don't have to.
Understood, but sometimes that is the best way.
>Any suggestions about how to tackle it?
See comments. You've done a really good job with all of the
obvious items.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....are you building the VFO from the newer schematics posted
on the Yahoo web site? Those are much clearer in the VFO section
than the old ones were.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 11:24 PM 12/9/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim -
> I will have to wait 'till tomorrow nite to check out the new
> schematics, but was looking in the Mouser website and DigiKey website and
> could not find the J176 device! My Fairchild book has them as J176, but
> I was wondering if there is another designation for it, i.e. 2Nxxxx or
> something like that. I may have some around here and don't even know it!!
>
>72
>
>Dennis
Dennis,
No other designation that I know of except J176. Maybe Jameco is
the only source at the moment for those. I know they have them on
page 19 of their latest catalog. I'd guess any P channel JFET
with a pinchoff voltage around 4 volts would work. I just don't
know what is being made these days. Maybe time to visit the
Fairchild, Phillips, etc. web site and snoop around.
Anybody else on the list got a source for P channel JFETs??
72,
Jim, K8IQY
BTW, I'm listing around the QRPp freqs tonight with my 2N2.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 11:35 PM 12/9/01 +0000, Kevin, KC8SFJ wrote:
>Jim, et al;
>I am a little confused as to what Freq to set the LO. Right now I
>have it set to 4.91445 which is 750Hz below the crystal freq. I had
>to add about 47pF in parallel with TC5 to get this low. Is this
>correct? I am reading the frequency with an HP8640B on the top side
>(ungrounded side) of TC5.
>Let me know if I am in the ballpark.
>
>Thanks and 73,
>Kevin, KC8SFJ
Kevin,
Unless your filter is way off, I'd guess you are setting the LO
way too far down in frequency. If I had to make a guess regarding
a good frequency for a starting point, I'd shoot for about 4.914700
to 4.91500 MHz. That should put you in the ballpark. You can
adjust it from there.
Nice that you have an 8640B. That's one of the goodies on my
wish list for a second signal generator. Just want the basic
model with an option III reverse power protection. Don't need
the audio oscillator, nor the frequency doubler.
72 and keep the questions and feedback coming.
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim and group,
>>I pulled D7 out and checked it in a transistor/diode checker. OK.
>>Checked orientation as I put it back in ; anode (non-banded) side
>>to ground. OK.
>Hmmmm. What kind of diode are you using for the varicap? The
>MVAM109 is in a TO-92 type of case. You must be using something
>else.
Sorry, Jim, this was written poorly must have been confusing. I
was picturing the diode symbol in my mind when I wrote that. I do
ave a MVAM109. My diode checker verified the anode side, and I put
that side to ground. (Looking at the flat size, with legs down,
anode on the left, and is grounded.)
Onward.
73,
- Craig
Gang,
I tried posting a message to QRP-L but it didn't go thru. I remember
a 1 or 2 part scope tutorial that someone posted to QRP-L in the last
year or two. Does anyone know where I can find it?
I still can't get section 3 to check out. I've checked out the
wiring and parts. Don't see a problem. (I'm sure it's there) I
have a scope, but don't know how to use it. I'd like to try to
trouble shoot with the scope if I can make sense of it.
Do I need anything in addition to the scope?
I'm about ready to toss this attempt in the desk drawer and start #2.
Thanks
Tom
N0DSP
|
1179|1154|2001-12-09 22:29:51|macstein@aol.com|Re: Sidetone Still LOUD!|Dennis WB0WAO GOOD job in th FP net! and thanks for the QSO afterwards!
539 here in FL!
-MAC-
AF4PS
|
1180|1177|2001-12-10 08:40:12|John Wagner|Re: VFO follow-up|You could also pull out that MH101 SW30+ and look at the varicap diode
in that one. ;)
GL on the next stage(s).
73 de John, N1QO
Craig Johnson wrote:
>
>
> Sorry, Jim, this was written poorly must have been confusing. I
> was picturing the diode symbol in my mind when I wrote that. I do
> ave a MVAM109. My diode checker verified the anode side, and I put
> that side to ground. (Looking at the flat size, with legs down,
> anode on the left, and is grounded.)
>
> Onward.
>
> 73,
> - Craig
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI'm forwarding them to you via email Tom. Paul, NA5N posted it to QRP-L
at one point.
73 de John, N1QO
n0dsp wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> I tried posting a message to QRP-L but it didn't go thru. I remember
> a 1 or 2 part scope tutorial that someone posted to QRP-L in the last
> year or two. Does anyone know where I can find it?
>
> I still can't get section 3 to check out. I've checked out the
> wiring and parts. Don't see a problem. (I'm sure it's there) I
> have a scope, but don't know how to use it. I'd like to try to
> trouble shoot with the scope if I can make sense of it.
>
> Do I need anything in addition to the scope?
>
> I'm about ready to toss this attempt in the desk drawer and start #2.
>
> Thanks
>
> Tom
> N0DSP
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comTom,
I saved Paul's scope tutorials if you send me your email I'll send 'em
direct.
~ Steve/n0tu ~
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 6:47 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Scope help
> I'm forwarding them to you via email Tom. Paul, NA5N posted it to QRP-L
> at one point.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> n0dsp wrote:
> >
> > Gang,
> >
> > I tried posting a message to QRP-L but it didn't go thru. I remember
> > a 1 or 2 part scope tutorial that someone posted to QRP-L in the last
> > year or two. Does anyone know where I can find it?
> >
> > I still can't get section 3 to check out. I've checked out the
> > wiring and parts. Don't see a problem. (I'm sure it's there) I
> > have a scope, but don't know how to use it. I'd like to try to
> > trouble shoot with the scope if I can make sense of it.
> >
> > Do I need anything in addition to the scope?
> >
> > I'm about ready to toss this attempt in the desk drawer and start #2.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Tom
> > N0DSP
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
At 03:12 AM 12/10/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>I tried posting a message to QRP-L but it didn't go thru. I remember
>a 1 or 2 part scope tutorial that someone posted to QRP-L in the last
>year or two. Does anyone know where I can find it?
>
>I still can't get section 3 to check out. I've checked out the
>wiring and parts. Don't see a problem. (I'm sure it's there) I
>have a scope, but don't know how to use it. I'd like to try to
>trouble shoot with the scope if I can make sense of it.
>
>Do I need anything in addition to the scope?
>
>I'm about ready to toss this attempt in the desk drawer and start #2.
>
>Thanks
>
>Tom
>N0DSP
Tom,
Besides the scope, you'll need some kind of signal source to
drive the front-end with. Almost anything will do, as small
transmitter into a dummy load with a very small capacitor
coupling that signal into the rig, or an MFJ259B, etc.
If you have none of those, I'd recommend getting one of the
7.040 crystals from Norcal and building a simple oscillator
to use as a signal source.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Besides the scope, you'll need some kind of signal source to
> drive the front-end with. .... I'd recommend getting one of the
> 7.040 crystals from Norcal and building a simple oscillator
> to use as a signal source.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
I made up a XTAL checker (N5FC) and pulled the 7.040 rock out of the TT2. I dont have a scope, but it was really useful in peaking the RX section up
72
Dennis
Gang,
I contacted Paul, NA5N about posting his O'Scope tutorial on our site.
He kindly agreed.
I posted two versions to the file area. One is "full-size" which makes
for easier reading. The other is printed as 4 pages per page to save
trees if you decide to print it.
Both are PDF files.
Enjoy.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWhat is section 3? I may be able to help. I was able
to get (2) 2N2/40s going without a scope. Let me know
here or at
K2UD@adelphia.net 72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- n0dsp <
n0dsp@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Gang,
>
> I tried posting a message to QRP-L but it didn't go
> thru. I remember
> a 1 or 2 part scope tutorial that someone posted to
> QRP-L in the last
> year or two. Does anyone know where I can find it?
>
>
> I still can't get section 3 to check out. I've
> checked out the
> wiring and parts. Don't see a problem. (I'm sure
> it's there) I
> have a scope, but don't know how to use it. I'd
> like to try to
> trouble shoot with the scope if I can make sense of
> it.
>
> Do I need anything in addition to the scope?
>
> I'm about ready to toss this attempt in the desk
> drawer and start #2.
>
> Thanks
>
> Tom
> N0DSP
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.comHello
I am reading as many of the older posts as I can to try and catch up
with the group. I have ordered parts from several of the nice folks
on the list and I have a few questions. I have the 1998 QRPp bound
book with the full article and pictures and im wondering if this is
ok to build by or should I use the new files that have been posted?
I also saw the posts about a scope and im wondering if you need a
scope to test and align the rig? I dont have a scope at this time
but im planning on buying one and im sure I will need the scope file
then Hi. Anyone have a good cheap scope for sale Hi. I like the 1998
article with the pictures and the good desciptions of building the
sections and I think I can build the rig using this but if I have to
use the new files I may be lost Hi. I am waiting on all parts to
arrive to see what else I need to purchase so I hope I can start
building in the next week or so. I have the pc board cut and im
ready to pencil in the pads, so any help I can get on which one to
use would be appreicated.
Thanks
72 de ke4vpn
Ronnie
|
1190|1189|2001-12-10 19:03:01|Lee Mairs|Re: Newbie Question for the group|Ronnie -
You won't believe how helpful the 2N2-40's Daddy will be! I've just
completed Stage 3 but haven't tested it yet. Steve and John are a great
help in relieving anxiety before you even take iron to solder.
The book diagrams have several corrections. Make sure that you make the
corrections, but do not rely solely on the book. Steve's design as mutated
a bit with time. I found myself getting confused trying to resolve
differences between the latest schematics and the bound book - THE
SCHEMATICS WIN!!!
Good luck and I know you will have fun.
73 de Lee, KM4YY
It's just a job. Grass grows, birds fly, waves pound the sand. I just beat
people up.
-- Muhammad Ali
----- Original Message -----
From: "ke4vpn" <ke4vpn@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 6:35 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Newbie Question for the group
> Hello
> I am reading as many of the older posts as I can to try and catch up
> with the group. I have ordered parts from several of the nice folks
> on the list and I have a few questions. I have the 1998 QRPp bound
> book with the full article and pictures and im wondering if this is
> ok to build by or should I use the new files that have been posted?
> I also saw the posts about a scope and im wondering if you need a
> scope to test and align the rig? I dont have a scope at this time
> but im planning on buying one and im sure I will need the scope file
> then Hi. Anyone have a good cheap scope for sale Hi. I like the 1998
> article with the pictures and the good desciptions of building the
> sections and I think I can build the rig using this but if I have to
> use the new files I may be lost Hi. I am waiting on all parts to
> arrive to see what else I need to purchase so I hope I can start
> building in the next week or so. I have the pc board cut and im
> ready to pencil in the pads, so any help I can get on which one to
> use would be appreicated.
> Thanks
> 72 de ke4vpn
> Ronnie
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hello Gang,
Thanks to a whole lot of elmering from Jim and numerous others in the
group, I FINALLY got Section 3 (Receiver Front End) working.....at least I
think I do. At Jim's suggestion, I ended up replacing D25 and D26. That
seemed to do the trick. Now, when I apply a signal with my VE3DNL Marker
Generator to the recv ant in pad, I get a pretty good signal on my
receiver. I am able to peak the signal with TC1, TC2, and to a lesser
extent, TC9. Thanks for all the help everyone!! This is really a great
group of people. Now, on to section 4!!
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
|
1192|1191|2001-12-10 21:33:36|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Rcvr FE Success - FINALLY!|At 08:35 PM 12/10/01 -0500, Pat, KF4LMZ wrote:
>Hello Gang,
>
>Thanks to a whole lot of elmering from Jim and numerous others in the
>group, I FINALLY got Section 3 (Receiver Front End) working.....at least I
>think I do. At Jim's suggestion, I ended up replacing D25 and D26. That
>seemed to do the trick. Now, when I apply a signal with my VE3DNL Marker
>Generator to the recv ant in pad, I get a pretty good signal on my
>receiver. I am able to peak the signal with TC1, TC2, and to a lesser
>extent, TC9.
That's exactly the way those three trimmers ought to tune. TC1
and TC2 are quite sharp, and TC9 is quite broad, since it is
loaded very heavily on both ends, destroying the Q.
I think you've got it work FB Pat! Way to go........
> Thanks for all the help everyone!! This is really a great
>group of people. Now, on to section 4!!
Do it!!!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 11:35 PM 12/10/01 +0000, Ronnie, ke4vpn wrote:
>Hello
>I am reading as many of the older posts as I can to try and catch up
>with the group. I have ordered parts from several of the nice folks
>on the list and I have a few questions. I have the 1998 QRPp bound
>book with the full article and pictures and im wondering if this is
>ok to build by or should I use the new files that have been posted?
Use the sections of that book that have not changed. You can
see what those are by comparing schematics. Use the new
schematics for the better circuitry, and better performance.
>I also saw the posts about a scope and im wondering if you need a
>scope to test and align the rig?
No you don't, but having one if you run into problems is a
great asset if you also have a signal source to use with it.
Probably the best thing to have while building the rig is a
general coverage receiver, so that you can check the output
of the rig at critical stages, and also listen to the VFO and
local oscillators. But, if you don't have any of that, but
build the rig correctly, it will work as designed.
> I dont have a scope at this time
>but im planning on buying one and im sure I will need the scope file
>then Hi. Anyone have a good cheap scope for sale Hi. I like the 1998
>article with the pictures and the good desciptions of building the
>sections and I think I can build the rig using this but if I have to
>use the new files I may be lost Hi.
No you won't get lost. Just take some time and a pencil
and write down where the changes are, and keep refering back
to them. There are pictures posted on the Yahoo web page
showing the new RF amplifier, and the revised crystal filter
layouts, so that should not cause a big hitch.
> I am waiting on all parts to
>arrive to see what else I need to purchase so I hope I can start
>building in the next week or so. I have the pc board cut and im
>ready to pencil in the pads, so any help I can get on which one to
>use would be appreicated.
Your VBW filter kit went out in today's mail, so you should be
seeing that by the end of the week.
72 and GL with the building Ron,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ronnie:
I used the 1998 QRPp article almost exclusively for my design. Make SURE you
get a copy of all the "errata" so you won't make silly mistakes. Get it
here....
http://www.qsl.net/k8iqy/2n2errs.html Then, check out Jim's new version of the variable bandwidth filter, it
REALLy helps, altho I understand the older version in QRPp works fine. Also
look at postings for the new rcvr mute, it does make a big difference as far
as sidetone volume, without the new changes, sidetone is REALLY LOUD!!!
Be careful when you read T6 and T6 etc, because on the new schematics,
things get a little confusing with the newer labeling standard.
Otherwise, enjoy the processs. It really has been a joy, and trust me, if I
can do it, so can you!
73
Tom
KC0GXX
----- Original Message -----
From: "ke4vpn" <ke4vpn@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 23:35 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Newbie Question for the group
> Hello
> I am reading as many of the older posts as I can to try and catch up
> with the group. I have ordered parts from several of the nice folks
> on the list and I have a few questions. I have the 1998 QRPp bound
> book with the full article and pictures and im wondering if this is
> ok to build by or should I use the new files that have been posted?
> I also saw the posts about a scope and im wondering if you need a
> scope to test and align the rig? I dont have a scope at this time
> but im planning on buying one and im sure I will need the scope file
> then Hi. Anyone have a good cheap scope for sale Hi. I like the 1998
> article with the pictures and the good desciptions of building the
> sections and I think I can build the rig using this but if I have to
> use the new files I may be lost Hi. I am waiting on all parts to
> arrive to see what else I need to purchase so I hope I can start
> building in the next week or so. I have the pc board cut and im
> ready to pencil in the pads, so any help I can get on which one to
> use would be appreicated.
> Thanks
> 72 de ke4vpn
> Ronnie
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hey Gang,
Just uploaded a pic of the finished product!
72
Dennis
|
1196|1195|2001-12-11 07:43:37|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Pic of Rig|At 07:04 AM 12/11/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Hey Gang,
> Just uploaded a pic of the finished product!
>
>72
>
>Dennis
Dennis,
It looks great!! Makes me smile from ear to ear seeing another
one come to life.
72 and thanks for making my day,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
TNX Jim,
Couldn't have done it without your help, that is for sure! Hmmm, seriously thinking about cobbling up a 2N2/15 later on! Downloaded and printed out the schematics for the RX portion. Saw some interesting differences between the two. And best of all, I actually understood about half of them!
72 es TNX AGN
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1198|1195|2001-12-11 18:56:42|John Wagner|Re: Pic of Rig|Awesome!
Looks fantastic. Congrats on the great job.
73 de John, N1QO
wb0wao wrote:
>
> Hey Gang,
> Just uploaded a pic of the finished product!
>
> 72
>
> Dennis
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comBuilt stage 3 yesterday. Don't know why but it's a bit ham-fisted,
doesn't look as good as the VFO.
Tested this morning, didn't work. Wiring looks OK. Voltages check out
and LED lights up. Just doesn't do anything.
I've got signals coming in on 40m, the general coverage receiver has
a 5 foot telescopic whip and is receiving fine. The aerial to the 2n2-
40 is 5 foot of wire.
Tried reversing the phase of the 1 turn primary on T6 (it looked OK
before but was worth a try). It then took off with TC2 acting like a
tuning capacitor, so I guess the phasing was OK originally.
The only areas of doubt that I have are -
1. T1 and T2 30 turn windings made with #26 (it's the smallest I've
got) so windings 'doubled up'.
2. T3 and T4 trifilars twisted together probably more than the 8 - 10
turns recommended.
3. C14 and C16 0.1 microF caps marked 100k. I think this is OK, if
not I've got 0.22 microFarad with me, would they do instead ?
Very little test equipment with me in hospital, only DVM, SSS
frequency counter and general coverage receiver. Could build a 7MHZ
oscillator I suppose.
Any ideas before I strip it and start again ?
73 Steve G4GXL
|
1202|383|2001-12-12 12:21:09|Steve Smith|Re: Caps kits Shipping|Ken,
My bookeeper advised me that the check I sent for the cap. kit hasn't
cleared yet.
Harris Communications & Electronics, Inc.
CK #11378 dated 09-17-01.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Darn! Did it again! Sorry for the goof up :-(.
73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Well,
I was in such a hurry to send the kits, I took my time getting the checks to
the bank. Should be clearing shortly since I believe it went in around
mid-November.
BTW thanks for the promo of "Rock Around the Clock": be fun to hear some of
the classic glow-rigs on the air, tickling their rocks!
73
Ken KG4FGC
Steve Smith wrote:
> Ken,
>
> My bookeeper advised me that the check I sent for the cap. kit hasn't
> cleared yet.
>
> Harris Communications & Electronics, Inc.
> CK #11378 dated 09-17-01.
>
> 73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
> WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
> "Snort Rosin"
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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Hi Steve -
I'm in the same shape. Left my MFJ Antenna Analyzer signal source in WV, so
no progress fixing Stage 3.
I'll bet Jim and John come up with something. If not, I 'm going to rip it
out and re-do it in accordance with the layout John used as displayed in
the photo on his website.
73 de Lee, km4yy
There is nothing wrong with sobriety in moderation.
-- John Ciardi
----- Original Message -----
From: "g4gxl" <g4gxl@btinternet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 10:03 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] I got them stage 3 blues ...
> Built stage 3 yesterday. Don't know why but it's a bit ham-fisted,
> doesn't look as good as the VFO.
>
> Tested this morning, didn't work. Wiring looks OK. Voltages check out
> and LED lights up. Just doesn't do anything.
>
> I've got signals coming in on 40m, the general coverage receiver has
> a 5 foot telescopic whip and is receiving fine. The aerial to the 2n2-
> 40 is 5 foot of wire.
>
> Tried reversing the phase of the 1 turn primary on T6 (it looked OK
> before but was worth a try). It then took off with TC2 acting like a
> tuning capacitor, so I guess the phasing was OK originally.
>
> The only areas of doubt that I have are -
>
> 1. T1 and T2 30 turn windings made with #26 (it's the smallest I've
> got) so windings 'doubled up'.
>
> 2. T3 and T4 trifilars twisted together probably more than the 8 - 10
> turns recommended.
>
> 3. C14 and C16 0.1 microF caps marked 100k. I think this is OK, if
> not I've got 0.22 microFarad with me, would they do instead ?
>
> Very little test equipment with me in hospital, only DVM, SSS
> frequency counter and general coverage receiver. Could build a 7MHZ
> oscillator I suppose.
>
> Any ideas before I strip it and start again ?
>
> 73 Steve G4GXL
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
.1 uF caps marked 100K are not .1 uF caps.
100K means 100 picofarad, not 100,000 picofarad
C14 and C16 need to be .1 uF, marked 104
the K mean +/- 10%
That might make a difference, since they are 1000 times different!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 1:54 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] I got them stage 3 blues ...
> Hi Steve -
> I'm in the same shape. Left my MFJ Antenna Analyzer signal source in WV,
so
> no progress fixing Stage 3.
> I'll bet Jim and John come up with something. If not, I 'm going to rip
it
> out and re-do it in accordance with the layout John used as displayed in
> the photo on his website.
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
>
> There is nothing wrong with sobriety in moderation.
> -- John Ciardi
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "g4gxl" <g4gxl@btinternet.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 10:03 AM
> Subject: [2n2-40] I got them stage 3 blues ...
>
>
> > Built stage 3 yesterday. Don't know why but it's a bit ham-fisted,
> > doesn't look as good as the VFO.
> >
> > Tested this morning, didn't work. Wiring looks OK. Voltages check out
> > and LED lights up. Just doesn't do anything.
> >
> > I've got signals coming in on 40m, the general coverage receiver has
> > a 5 foot telescopic whip and is receiving fine. The aerial to the 2n2-
> > 40 is 5 foot of wire.
> >
> > Tried reversing the phase of the 1 turn primary on T6 (it looked OK
> > before but was worth a try). It then took off with TC2 acting like a
> > tuning capacitor, so I guess the phasing was OK originally.
> >
> > The only areas of doubt that I have are -
> >
> > 1. T1 and T2 30 turn windings made with #26 (it's the smallest I've
> > got) so windings 'doubled up'.
> >
> > 2. T3 and T4 trifilars twisted together probably more than the 8 - 10
> > turns recommended.
> >
> > 3. C14 and C16 0.1 microF caps marked 100k. I think this is OK, if
> > not I've got 0.22 microFarad with me, would they do instead ?
> >
> > Very little test equipment with me in hospital, only DVM, SSS
> > frequency counter and general coverage receiver. Could build a 7MHZ
> > oscillator I suppose.
> >
> > Any ideas before I strip it and start again ?
> >
> > 73 Steve G4GXL
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
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>
>
>
OH GOOD GRIEF - Now I'm confused...a common state for me.
100K is 10 pF
104K is .1 uF
Sorry!
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Brian" wrote:
> .1 uF caps marked 100K are not .1 uF caps.
>
> 100K means 100 picofarad, not 100,000 picofarad
>
> C14 and C16 need to be .1 uF, marked 104
>
> the K mean +/- 10%
>
> That might make a difference, since they are 1000 times different!
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee Mairs"
> To: <2n2-40@y...>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 1:54 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] I got them stage 3 blues ...
>
>
> > Hi Steve -
> > I'm in the same shape. Left my MFJ Antenna Analyzer signal
source in WV,
> so
> > no progress fixing Stage 3.
> > I'll bet Jim and John come up with something. If not, I 'm going
to rip
> it
> > out and re-do it in accordance with the layout John used as
displayed in
> > the photo on his website.
> > 73 de Lee, km4yy
> >
> > There is nothing wrong with sobriety in moderation.
> > -- John Ciardi
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "g4gxl"
> > To: <2n2-40@y...>
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 10:03 AM
> > Subject: [2n2-40] I got them stage 3 blues ...
> >
> >
> > > Built stage 3 yesterday. Don't know why but it's a bit ham-
fisted,
> > > doesn't look as good as the VFO.
> > >
> > > Tested this morning, didn't work. Wiring looks OK. Voltages
check out
> > > and LED lights up. Just doesn't do anything.
> > >
> > > I've got signals coming in on 40m, the general coverage
receiver has
> > > a 5 foot telescopic whip and is receiving fine. The aerial to
the 2n2-
> > > 40 is 5 foot of wire.
> > >
> > > Tried reversing the phase of the 1 turn primary on T6 (it
looked OK
> > > before but was worth a try). It then took off with TC2 acting
like a
> > > tuning capacitor, so I guess the phasing was OK originally.
> > >
> > > The only areas of doubt that I have are -
> > >
> > > 1. T1 and T2 30 turn windings made with #26 (it's the smallest
I've
> > > got) so windings 'doubled up'.
> > >
> > > 2. T3 and T4 trifilars twisted together probably more than the
8 - 10
> > > turns recommended.
> > >
> > > 3. C14 and C16 0.1 microF caps marked 100k. I think this is OK,
if
> > > not I've got 0.22 microFarad with me, would they do instead ?
> > >
> > > Very little test equipment with me in hospital, only DVM, SSS
> > > frequency counter and general coverage receiver. Could build a
7MHZ
> > > oscillator I suppose.
> > >
> > > Any ideas before I strip it and start again ?
> > >
> > > 73 Steve G4GXL
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
Well, about all I can think of is this; make sure POT5 is all the way up
and TC9 is adjusted adjusted properly. After that, make sure you adjust
TC1 and TC2 properly.
An oscillator of some sort sure helps with this stage. I would be
reluctant to pull it all out and start over.
Sorry, that's my best guess!
73 de John, N1QO
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> Hi Steve -
> I'm in the same shape. Left my MFJ Antenna Analyzer signal source in WV, so
> no progress fixing Stage 3.
> I'll bet Jim and John come up with something. If not, I 'm going to rip it
> out and re-do it in accordance with the layout John used as displayed in
> the photo on his website.
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
>
> There is nothing wrong with sobriety in moderation.
> -- John Ciardi
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "g4gxl" <g4gxl@btinternet.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 10:03 AM
> Subject: [2n2-40] I got them stage 3 blues ...
>
> > Built stage 3 yesterday. Don't know why but it's a bit ham-fisted,
> > doesn't look as good as the VFO.
> >
> > Tested this morning, didn't work. Wiring looks OK. Voltages check out
> > and LED lights up. Just doesn't do anything.
> >
> > I've got signals coming in on 40m, the general coverage receiver has
> > a 5 foot telescopic whip and is receiving fine. The aerial to the 2n2-
> > 40 is 5 foot of wire.
> >
> > Tried reversing the phase of the 1 turn primary on T6 (it looked OK
> > before but was worth a try). It then took off with TC2 acting like a
> > tuning capacitor, so I guess the phasing was OK originally.
> >
> > The only areas of doubt that I have are -
> >
> > 1. T1 and T2 30 turn windings made with #26 (it's the smallest I've
> > got) so windings 'doubled up'.
> >
> > 2. T3 and T4 trifilars twisted together probably more than the 8 - 10
> > turns recommended.
> >
> > 3. C14 and C16 0.1 microF caps marked 100k. I think this is OK, if
> > not I've got 0.22 microFarad with me, would they do instead ?
> >
> > Very little test equipment with me in hospital, only DVM, SSS
> > frequency counter and general coverage receiver. Could build a 7MHZ
> > oscillator I suppose.
> >
> > Any ideas before I strip it and start again ?
> >
> > 73 Steve G4GXL
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi Steve,
g4gxl wrote:
>
> Built stage 3 yesterday. Don't know why but it's a bit ham-fisted,
> doesn't look as good as the VFO.
>
> Tested this morning, didn't work. Wiring looks OK. Voltages check out
> and LED lights up. Just doesn't do anything.
Sigh. Nothing of mine ever works the first time either!
> Tried reversing the phase of the 1 turn primary on T6 (it looked OK
> before but was worth a try). It then took off with TC2 acting like a
> tuning capacitor, so I guess the phasing was OK originally.
>
> The only areas of doubt that I have are -
>
> 1. T1 and T2 30 turn windings made with #26 (it's the smallest I've
> got) so windings 'doubled up'.
The wire size is fine. What do you mean by doubled up though?
> 2. T3 and T4 trifilars twisted together probably more than the 8 - 10
> turns recommended.
I would guess this isn't a huge problem.
> 3. C14 and C16 0.1 microF caps marked 100k. I think this is OK, if
> not I've got 0.22 microFarad with me, would they do instead ?
100K would be 100pF. You'll need ones marked 104.
> Very little test equipment with me in hospital, only DVM, SSS
> frequency counter and general coverage receiver. Could build a 7MHZ
> oscillator I suppose.
The oscillator is helpful.
>
> Any ideas before I strip it and start again ?
I sent some to the list a moment ago. Fix C14 and C16 and try the other
suggestions.
73
John, N1QO
>
> 73 Steve G4GXL
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHey guess what?
I'm gonna build another one!
Someone emailed me today and asked if I would build them one, so I will.
Ken tells me he's out of caps. I'm going to do an order with Dan's and
try to get everything I need in one order (yah, right). Won't be doing
another bulk order though.
Anyway, I'm psyched to build another one of these great rigs. I've got
some surface mount parts and might try to fit a few in.
73
John, N1QO
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> John -
> You gotta be kidding! What radio did you really build? Those sure don't
> look like my 2n2-40...
> Congrats on a really great job. I may have to pull my DBM apart and start
> over...
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
>
> A ship is safe in a harbor, but that's not what a ship is for.
> --Admiral Grace Hopper
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 8:54 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] 2n2-40+ - super close
>
> > Gang,
> >
> > I've updated my main 2n2-40 web site at:
> > http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/ with super closeup shots of most
> > sections of this radio. The closeups are at:
> > http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/closeup.html
> >
> > These pics may come in handy for builders of the 2n2-40+ who want to use
> > the new schematics from Jim, K8IQY that incorporate all the mods to
> > date.
> >
> > 73 de John, N1QO
> >
> > --
> > John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> > Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 03:03 PM 12/12/01 +0000, Steve, G4GXL wrote:
>Built stage 3 yesterday. Don't know why but it's a bit ham-fisted,
>doesn't look as good as the VFO.
>
>Tested this morning, didn't work. Wiring looks OK. Voltages check out
>and LED lights up. Just doesn't do anything.
>
>I've got signals coming in on 40m, the general coverage receiver has
>a 5 foot telescopic whip and is receiving fine. The aerial to the 2n2-
>40 is 5 foot of wire.
>
>Tried reversing the phase of the 1 turn primary on T6 (it looked OK
>before but was worth a try). It then took off with TC2 acting like a
>tuning capacitor, so I guess the phasing was OK originally.
Yes, sounds like you had the phasing right the first time
Steve.
>The only areas of doubt that I have are -
>
>1. T1 and T2 30 turn windings made with #26 (it's the smallest I've
>got) so windings 'doubled up'.
That shouldn't be a big problem, but might result in a bit more
effective inductance, with the added capacitive and inductive
coupling. You may have to take a turn or two off the 30 turn
windings to hit resonance.
>2. T3 and T4 trifilars twisted together probably more than the 8 - 10
>turns recommended.
No consequence.
>3. C14 and C16 0.1 microF caps marked 100k. I think this is OK, if
>not I've got 0.22 microFarad with me, would they do instead ?
Those are 10pF capacitors. You need 0.1uF or larger for
good RF bypassing. C14 is actually the most critical. If
the base has RF on it, the stage gain goes into the toilet.
>Very little test equipment with me in hospital, only DVM, SSS
>frequency counter and general coverage receiver. Could build a 7MHZ
>oscillator I suppose.
That would be most helpful unfortunately. Make sure that diodes
D25 and D26 aren't shorted. We've had at least two builders
that had to replace those before their rig started working. Probably
too much heat in the soldering process took them out (shorted). Also,
if you have the RF gain control wired in, make sure you have it set
for full signal into the front-end filters. If it is the opposite
way, not much will get through, although on my rig, I can still
hear W1AW quite loud with the RF gain all the way down. Amazing!!
>Any ideas before I strip it and start again ?
See above, and don't strip it down until we've exhausted all the
obvious possibilities.
72 and keep us posted on your progress.
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> No, it isn't with R10 across the correct two pins of the tuning
> pot. I'm guessing that you have it from the center to the wrong
> end, or the value isn't correct for the pot that you are using.
>
> The ideal R10 resistor has a value that will put the VFO frequency
> at 2.135 MHz (7.050 MHz) when the pot is set at 5 turns. With the
> pot that I used, 15K was the closest standard value to to that.
> It isn't perfect, but darned close.
I seem to have fixed the problem. I replaced the NTE618 varactor
with the MVAM109 from the parts kit. That fixed the linearity
problem. I guess I had too much heat on the '618 for too long :(
I also redid that section of the VFO after installing the new
varactor. I installed TC3 and moved things around a bit.
My next question is this...
TC4 moves the whole VFO band, but what does TC3 do?
Thanks for all the help so far.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
> > Is this the way it is supposed to work?
>
> No!!
I see that now.
> >Test equipment is pretty good here so I can test it well if there
> >are any suggestions.
BTW: I picked up the HP8640B from ebay for under $200. It has some
problems which I will fix when I get around to it, but all in all it
was a good deal.
73At 04:37 PM 12/13/01 +0000, Kevin, KC8SFJ wrote:
>--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > No, it isn't with R10 across the correct two pins of the tuning
> > pot. I'm guessing that you have it from the center to the wrong
> > end, or the value isn't correct for the pot that you are using.
> >
> > The ideal R10 resistor has a value that will put the VFO frequency
> > at 2.135 MHz (7.050 MHz) when the pot is set at 5 turns. With the
> > pot that I used, 15K was the closest standard value to to that.
> > It isn't perfect, but darned close.
>
>I seem to have fixed the problem. I replaced the NTE618 varactor
>with the MVAM109 from the parts kit. That fixed the linearity
>problem. I guess I had too much heat on the '618 for too long :(
That can do it unfortunately.........
>I also redid that section of the VFO after installing the new
>varactor. I installed TC3 and moved things around a bit.
>My next question is this...
>TC4 moves the whole VFO band, but what does TC3 do?
Sets the span; how much of the band can be tuned. As you
increase the capacity of TC3, you get more VFO coverage. Ideally,
100 KHz when TC3 is set in the middle of its range.
>Thanks for all the help so far.
You are welcome. Thanks for post your progress. Getting feedback
helps me formulate better answers.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
After spending a weekend staring at the DBM and pre-mixer rf amplifier
without finding anything wrong, I started lifting wires and checking
components. Still no joy, so I called Jake, N4UY, and he agreed to cast a
new set of eyes on this thing. Well we spent several hours and can't find
anything wrong - other than it doesn't play. We directly coupled a 7.040
oscillator to pad A, trimmed TC1 and TC2 for max signal. These tuned very
sharply - maybe too sharp? We then traced back towards the DBM.
We observed a smaller signal at the emitter of Q4 and a much larger signal
at the collector of Q4.
The signals at the junctions of the mixer diodes were significantly
different. Unfortunately, I can't remember whether the signals at T3 were
greater than T4 or vice versa.
Tuning the VFO (a nice clean, sold 2volt signal T4 (1), revealed no joy. We
finally computed the oscillator setting necessary to get us the 7.040 signal
at 4.915, pre-set the oscillator and did hear a very faint signal in the
station receiver tuned to 4.915.
To make the situation even more complicated, the signals observed in my
2N2-40 were approximately the same as those in Jake's radio; however, Jake's
radio plays and can copy stations other than the 7.040 oscillator. We both
gave up after about three hours. We are fresh out of airspeed, altitude and
ideas? Any suggestions before I junk all my stuff and buy golf clubs?
73 de Lee, KM4YY
The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear
arms is,
as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
--Thomas Jefferson
|
1215|1214|2001-12-13 18:46:52|John Wagner|Re: The DBM Blues Get Bluer...|Hi Lee,
It sounds to me like you might have a problem in pinouts of T3 or T4
and/or a burned out diode amongst D1->D4.
Before you redo the whole thing, redo those sections paying particular
attention to T3 and T4. On the next one I build I'm getting three
different colors of wire to ensure it's done properly.
73 de John, N1QO
P.S. TC1 and TC3 tune sharp for me as well. You didn't mention TC9,
which I assume is tuned for peak signal as well.
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> After spending a weekend staring at the DBM and pre-mixer rf amplifier
> without finding anything wrong, I started lifting wires and checking
> components. Still no joy, so I called Jake, N4UY, and he agreed to cast a
> new set of eyes on this thing. Well we spent several hours and can't find
> anything wrong - other than it doesn't play. We directly coupled a 7.040
> oscillator to pad A, trimmed TC1 and TC2 for max signal. These tuned very
> sharply - maybe too sharp? We then traced back towards the DBM.
>
> We observed a smaller signal at the emitter of Q4 and a much larger signal
> at the collector of Q4.
> The signals at the junctions of the mixer diodes were significantly
> different. Unfortunately, I can't remember whether the signals at T3 were
> greater than T4 or vice versa.
>
> Tuning the VFO (a nice clean, sold 2volt signal T4 (1), revealed no joy. We
> finally computed the oscillator setting necessary to get us the 7.040 signal
> at 4.915, pre-set the oscillator and did hear a very faint signal in the
> station receiver tuned to 4.915.
>
> To make the situation even more complicated, the signals observed in my
> 2N2-40 were approximately the same as those in Jake's radio; however, Jake's
> radio plays and can copy stations other than the 7.040 oscillator. We both
> gave up after about three hours. We are fresh out of airspeed, altitude and
> ideas? Any suggestions before I junk all my stuff and buy golf clubs?
>
> 73 de Lee, KM4YY
>
> The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear
> arms is,
> as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
> --Thomas Jefferson
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi John -
Roger that. TC9 has also been tuned for maximum smoke.
I like your idea of using three colors of wire for T3 and T4. I've had them
out and checked them twice. Let me make sure I followed the right
procedure: 1 and 2 are the same wire, 3 and 4 , and 5 and 6 likewise. Odd
numbers end up on ones side of the toroid and even numbers on the other
side. This could be the problem if I'm wrong...
I suspected diodes D1-D4 also, but I've lifted each end and tested them with
my Fluke DVM. Check OK? Can you forward me the post when Jim talked about
how he matched 4148s? I'll replace them again just to be sure.
Boy, This sure was fun...
73 de Lee, km4yy
I have found some of the best reasons I ever had for remaining at the bottom
simply by looking at the men at the top.
-- Frank Moore Colby
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 6:49 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] The DBM Blues Get Bluer...
> Hi Lee,
>
> It sounds to me like you might have a problem in pinouts of T3 or T4
> and/or a burned out diode amongst D1->D4.
>
> Before you redo the whole thing, redo those sections paying particular
> attention to T3 and T4. On the next one I build I'm getting three
> different colors of wire to ensure it's done properly.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> P.S. TC1 and TC3 tune sharp for me as well. You didn't mention TC9,
> which I assume is tuned for peak signal as well.
>
> Lee Mairs wrote:
> >
> > After spending a weekend staring at the DBM and pre-mixer rf amplifier
> > without finding anything wrong, I started lifting wires and checking
> > components. Still no joy, so I called Jake, N4UY, and he agreed to cast
a
> > new set of eyes on this thing. Well we spent several hours and can't
find
> > anything wrong - other than it doesn't play. We directly coupled a
7.040
> > oscillator to pad A, trimmed TC1 and TC2 for max signal. These tuned
very
> > sharply - maybe too sharp? We then traced back towards the DBM.
> >
> > We observed a smaller signal at the emitter of Q4 and a much larger
signal
> > at the collector of Q4.
> > The signals at the junctions of the mixer diodes were significantly
> > different. Unfortunately, I can't remember whether the signals at T3
were
> > greater than T4 or vice versa.
> >
> > Tuning the VFO (a nice clean, sold 2volt signal T4 (1), revealed no joy.
We
> > finally computed the oscillator setting necessary to get us the 7.040
signal
> > at 4.915, pre-set the oscillator and did hear a very faint signal in the
> > station receiver tuned to 4.915.
> >
> > To make the situation even more complicated, the signals observed in my
> > 2N2-40 were approximately the same as those in Jake's radio; however,
Jake's
> > radio plays and can copy stations other than the 7.040 oscillator. We
both
> > gave up after about three hours. We are fresh out of airspeed, altitude
and
> > ideas? Any suggestions before I junk all my stuff and buy golf clubs?
> >
> > 73 de Lee, KM4YY
> >
> > The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear
> > arms is,
> > as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
> > --Thomas Jefferson
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I'm glad that John Wagner, N1QO may try some surface mount devices.
My 2n2-40 project is a mix of leaded and surface mount devices. I
just powered up the audio amp which is mostly SMT and I'm pleased.
It draws about 25 ma. at 13 volts and is quiet, not hissing like
many IC amps. Nice design, Jim. Thank you.
'Surface Mount' for me is slow because I draw and redraw the stage
to minimize (not eliminate) errors. Soon I should be able to receive
signals though I may have to ask Santa for some more parts.
Are we having fun? Yessireeeee.
72,
Kaye Hartman, K8GZ Lancaster, OH
|
1218|1214|2001-12-14 04:37:44|g4gxl|Re: The DBM Blues Get Bluer...|Lee, we are certainly following each other and getting same results.
I have now replaced the 2 incorrect caps. I also replaced all diodes
(DBM and switch), although the diodes that I removed all tested OK.
Replaced the 2N2222 too, so it looks like the problem is in the
toroids. I've remade all of the toroid wire solder joints.
Next I'm going to rewind the trifilars.
I thought I might try 3 strands of multi-coloured ribbon cable. I
assume I can wind these with the 3 strands 'flat' on the toroid
rather that 'twisted' as with the enamelled copper wire ?
The only other thing I can do is rewind the input filter toroids.
I've now managed to get some 32SWG copper wire. That will at least be
neater than the 26SWG used at the moment. Not *too* thin I hope ?
I got one brief moment of joy , followed by bitter disappointment !
I heard CW but just couldn't peak it with the trimmers. Eventually
turned off the PSU to get a cuppa, the CW was still there ! Someone's
having a laugh and using 4.915 for CW just to wind me up !!
It's now 9.30am Friday, I AM going to get this beat for the weekend !
Oh yes, it is great fun too !
73 Steve G4GXL
> > Lee Mairs wrote:
> > >
> > > After spending a weekend staring at the DBM and pre-mixer rf
amplifier
> > > without finding anything wrong, I started lifting wires and
checking
> > > components.
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> Hi John -
> Roger that. TC9 has also been tuned for maximum smoke.
OK.
> I like your idea of using three colors of wire for T3 and T4. I've had them
> out and checked them twice. Let me make sure I followed the right
> procedure: 1 and 2 are the same wire, 3 and 4 , and 5 and 6 likewise. Odd
> numbers end up on ones side of the toroid and even numbers on the other
> side. This could be the problem if I'm wrong...
That's how I did it.
> I suspected diodes D1-D4 also, but I've lifted each end and tested them with
> my Fluke DVM. Check OK? Can you forward me the post when Jim talked about
> how he matched 4148s? I'll replace them again just to be sure.
I used the diode forward voltage drop checker on my DVM and got 4 that
were as close as possible to each other.
> Boy, This sure was fun...
You'll get it Lee, you'll get it...
73 de John, N1QO
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
>
> I have found some of the best reasons I ever had for remaining at the bottom
> simply by looking at the men at the top.
> -- Frank Moore Colby
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 6:49 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] The DBM Blues Get Bluer...
>
> > Hi Lee,
> >
> > It sounds to me like you might have a problem in pinouts of T3 or T4
> > and/or a burned out diode amongst D1->D4.
> >
> > Before you redo the whole thing, redo those sections paying particular
> > attention to T3 and T4. On the next one I build I'm getting three
> > different colors of wire to ensure it's done properly.
> >
> > 73 de John, N1QO
> >
> > P.S. TC1 and TC3 tune sharp for me as well. You didn't mention TC9,
> > which I assume is tuned for peak signal as well.
> >
> > Lee Mairs wrote:
> > >
> > > After spending a weekend staring at the DBM and pre-mixer rf amplifier
> > > without finding anything wrong, I started lifting wires and checking
> > > components. Still no joy, so I called Jake, N4UY, and he agreed to cast
> a
> > > new set of eyes on this thing. Well we spent several hours and can't
> find
> > > anything wrong - other than it doesn't play. We directly coupled a
> 7.040
> > > oscillator to pad A, trimmed TC1 and TC2 for max signal. These tuned
> very
> > > sharply - maybe too sharp? We then traced back towards the DBM.
> > >
> > > We observed a smaller signal at the emitter of Q4 and a much larger
> signal
> > > at the collector of Q4.
> > > The signals at the junctions of the mixer diodes were significantly
> > > different. Unfortunately, I can't remember whether the signals at T3
> were
> > > greater than T4 or vice versa.
> > >
> > > Tuning the VFO (a nice clean, sold 2volt signal T4 (1), revealed no joy.
> We
> > > finally computed the oscillator setting necessary to get us the 7.040
> signal
> > > at 4.915, pre-set the oscillator and did hear a very faint signal in the
> > > station receiver tuned to 4.915.
> > >
> > > To make the situation even more complicated, the signals observed in my
> > > 2N2-40 were approximately the same as those in Jake's radio; however,
> Jake's
> > > radio plays and can copy stations other than the 7.040 oscillator. We
> both
> > > gave up after about three hours. We are fresh out of airspeed, altitude
> and
> > > ideas? Any suggestions before I junk all my stuff and buy golf clubs?
> > >
> > > 73 de Lee, KM4YY
> > >
> > > The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear
> > > arms is,
> > > as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
> > > --Thomas Jefferson
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com> Next I'm going to rewind the trifilars.
> I thought I might try 3 strands of multi-coloured ribbon cable.
OK, when I actually sat down to do it, found I could only get 2 turns
through the hole ! Rewound using 26SWG and marked leads with bits of
insulator from the ribbon cable. Now 100% that DBM is OK.
Also rewound T6 and replaced Q4 (again).
Rechecked layout for umpteenth time.
Voltages measured -
Vcc=14.3v Q4 e=2.29v b=2.93v c=12.64v
If these are OK then problem *must* be in input filter OR maybe I am
expecting too much at this stage. There are some strong 40m signals
around but maybe still not loud enough. Perhaps the only way to debug
the front-end is with a signal source ?
73 Steve G4GXL
Steve, I must have been drinking to much coffee. Id
swear I read all the voltages with a negative sign in front
of them.. Good luck
WES
At 02:11 PM 12/14/01 +0000, you wrote:
> > Next I'm going to rewind the trifilars.
> > I thought I might try 3 strands of multi-coloured ribbon cable.
>
>OK, when I actually sat down to do it, found I could only get 2 turns
>through the hole ! Rewound using 26SWG and marked leads with bits of
>insulator from the ribbon cable. Now 100% that DBM is OK.
>
>Also rewound T6 and replaced Q4 (again).
>
>Rechecked layout for umpteenth time.
>
>Voltages measured -
>Vcc=14.3v Q4 e=2.29v b=2.93v c=12.64v
>
>If these are OK then problem *must* be in input filter OR maybe I am
>expecting too much at this stage. There are some strong 40m signals
>around but maybe still not loud enough. Perhaps the only way to debug
>the front-end is with a signal source ?
>
>73 Steve G4GXL
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Jim is the expert here, but I think if you wind the tri-filars flat you have
to be very certain that the three strands remain in the same relative
position (i.e., parallel and flat to the core). I think the idea of
twisting them was to make it so one didn't have to worry about keeping the
individual wires parallel throughout the winding process.
Dave Benson provided color-coded ribbon cable for winding some of the
toroids in the SW 20+ kit. I thought about doing the same here, but don't
think I could fit that many turns on the core with the ribbon cable I have.
I tried again last night, but the only thing I could here was a faint signal
that turned out to be coming from the VFO oscillator. The VFO frequency was
2.098 when I could hear it on the station receiver at 4.195 mhz. I was
going to pull out the diodes today, but I'm waiting to get Jim's advice as
to how to match them.
73 de Lee. KM4YY
The future masters of technology will have to be lighthearted and
intelligent.
The machine easily masters the grim and the dumb.
--Marshall McLuhan, 1969
----- Original Message -----
From: "g4gxl" <g4gxl@btinternet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 4:37 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: The DBM Blues Get Bluer...
> Lee, we are certainly following each other and getting same results.
>
> I have now replaced the 2 incorrect caps. I also replaced all diodes
> (DBM and switch), although the diodes that I removed all tested OK.
>
> Replaced the 2N2222 too, so it looks like the problem is in the
> toroids. I've remade all of the toroid wire solder joints.
>
> Next I'm going to rewind the trifilars.
>
> I thought I might try 3 strands of multi-coloured ribbon cable. I
> assume I can wind these with the 3 strands 'flat' on the toroid
> rather that 'twisted' as with the enamelled copper wire ?
>
> The only other thing I can do is rewind the input filter toroids.
> I've now managed to get some 32SWG copper wire. That will at least be
> neater than the 26SWG used at the moment. Not *too* thin I hope ?
>
> I got one brief moment of joy , followed by bitter disappointment !
> I heard CW but just couldn't peak it with the trimmers. Eventually
> turned off the PSU to get a cuppa, the CW was still there ! Someone's
> having a laugh and using 4.915 for CW just to wind me up !!
>
> It's now 9.30am Friday, I AM going to get this beat for the weekend !
> Oh yes, it is great fun too !
>
> 73 Steve G4GXL
>
>
> > > Lee Mairs wrote:
> > > >
> > > > After spending a weekend staring at the DBM and pre-mixer rf
> amplifier
> > > > without finding anything wrong, I started lifting wires and
> checking
> > > > components.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
At 05:48 PM 12/13/01 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>After spending a weekend staring at the DBM and pre-mixer rf amplifier
>without finding anything wrong, I started lifting wires and checking
>components. Still no joy, so I called Jake, N4UY, and he agreed to cast a
>new set of eyes on this thing. Well we spent several hours and can't find
>anything wrong - other than it doesn't play. We directly coupled a 7.040
>oscillator to pad A, trimmed TC1 and TC2 for max signal.
What about the tuning of TC9, or did you use the fixed capacitor
approach. The tuning of TC9 is quite broad. Do you have the RF
gain control wired in? If so, can you see the signal coming out
of the wiper vary with changing its setting?
> These tuned very
>sharply - maybe too sharp?
Well they should be distinct, but not to the point of being
touchy.
> We then traced back towards the DBM.
>
>We observed a smaller signal at the emitter of Q4 and a much larger signal
>at the collector of Q4.
That's good. It's amplifying as it should be, hopefully by
12 dB.
>The signals at the junctions of the mixer diodes were significantly
>different. Unfortunately, I can't remember whether the signals at T3 were
>greater than T4 or vice versa.
The signals from T4, pins 3 and 6 should match in level, and
those on T3, pins 3 and 6 should also be matched in level, but
lower than the signals from T4.
>Tuning the VFO (a nice clean, sold 2volt signal T4 (1), revealed no joy. We
>finally computed the oscillator setting necessary to get us the 7.040 signal
>at 4.915, pre-set the oscillator and did hear a very faint signal in the
>station receiver tuned to 4.915.
I assume you are taking the signal to the external receiver off of
port "C".
>To make the situation even more complicated, the signals observed in my
>2N2-40 were approximately the same as those in Jake's radio; however, Jake's
>radio plays and can copy stations other than the 7.040 oscillator. We both
>gave up after about three hours. We are fresh out of airspeed, altitude and
>ideas? Any suggestions before I junk all my stuff and buy golf clubs?
My guess is that either T3 or T4 are not wound/connected correctly,
or that either of them or both have a shorted turn. Either condition
will render the DBM incapable of operating correctly.
Don't junk it! The design is solid, so if it doesn't work, the
problem is with something in the execution. Send the rig to
me at my call book address, and I'll figure out what the trouble
is, and send it back.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 09:37 AM 12/14/01 +0000, Steve, G4GXL wrote:
>Lee, we are certainly following each other and getting same results.
>
>I have now replaced the 2 incorrect caps. I also replaced all diodes
>(DBM and switch), although the diodes that I removed all tested OK.
>
>Replaced the 2N2222 too, so it looks like the problem is in the
>toroids. I've remade all of the toroid wire solder joints.
>
>Next I'm going to rewind the trifilars.
>
>I thought I might try 3 strands of multi-coloured ribbon cable. I
>assume I can wind these with the 3 strands 'flat' on the toroid
>rather that 'twisted' as with the enamelled copper wire ?
Yes, that will work fine, but you may have trouble on the
T37-43 cores. At best you'll get maybe 3 turns on. That
should work, but may not be optimal. You could also go up to
a T50 size core and get a few more turns on.
>The only other thing I can do is rewind the input filter toroids.
>I've now managed to get some 32SWG copper wire. That will at least be
>neater than the 26SWG used at the moment. Not *too* thin I hope ?
#32 will work fine, just a bit harder to handle, but electrically,
should work well.
>I got one brief moment of joy , followed by bitter disappointment !
>I heard CW but just couldn't peak it with the trimmers. Eventually
>turned off the PSU to get a cuppa, the CW was still there ! Someone's
>having a laugh and using 4.915 for CW just to wind me up !!
We've all had that experience along the way. Several time for
me actually!! :-)
>It's now 9.30am Friday, I AM going to get this beat for the weekend !
>Oh yes, it is great fun too !
GL Steve and keep us posted.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 02:11 PM 12/14/01 +0000, Steve, G4GXL wrote:
> > Next I'm going to rewind the trifilars.
> > I thought I might try 3 strands of multi-coloured ribbon cable.
>
>OK, when I actually sat down to do it, found I could only get 2 turns
>through the hole !
That's what I was alluding too in my earlier post.
> Rewound using 26SWG and marked leads with bits of
>insulator from the ribbon cable. Now 100% that DBM is OK.
Good way to do it.
>Also rewound T6 and replaced Q4 (again).
>
>Rechecked layout for umpteenth time.
>
>Voltages measured -
>Vcc=14.3v Q4 e=2.29v b=2.93v c=12.64v
These are fine. You're LED is more like a 3 volt device, but
no big deal. The amp should be running fine.
>If these are OK then problem *must* be in input filter OR maybe I am
>expecting too much at this stage. There are some strong 40m signals
>around but maybe still not loud enough.
You should be hearing the 40 meter signals converted to 4.915 MHz
at the same or louger signal strength as they are directly. The
input filter has only a few dB of loss, and the DBM about 6 more.
These losses are made up by the RF amplifier, with about 3 dB
to spare, so the outgoing signals are actually stronger than the
incoming if everything is working correctly.
> Perhaps the only way to debug
>the front-end is with a signal source ?
That helps, but not a neccessity if you have a second general coverage
receiver.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 10:40 AM 12/14/01 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>-snip-
>I tried again last night, but the only thing I could here was a faint signal
>that turned out to be coming from the VFO oscillator. The VFO frequency was
>2.098 when I could hear it on the station receiver at 4.195 mhz. I was
>going to pull out the diodes today, but I'm waiting to get Jim's advice as
>to how to match them.
Best way that I've found for matching diodes is a simple test jig with
a 1 k resistor feeding a diode from a regulated supply at 9 volts.
Just measure the forward drop across a bunch, and pick 4 that are
within 1 mv of each other. Those seem to work fine, and are well
matched in the DBM.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim wrote:
> Don't junk it! The design is solid, so if it doesn't work, the
> problem is with something in the execution. Send the rig to
> me at my call book address, and I'll figure out what the trouble
> is, and send it back.
No way!! (yet) Besides, I heard that all the Mojo leaks out if the rig makes
more than one trip in a UPS truck!
My responses:
The settings for TC3 and TC4 were not "touchy", just a bit "tight". I'm
using 4-90pf trimmers. I did use TC9, and we did peak it, and its tuning
was very broad. The rf gain control did change the level of the signal at
the wiper; however, I later shorted it per the article to make absolutely
sure that it wasn't part of the problem.
We did take the signal to the station receiver from Point C.
I will R&R T3 and T4 this morning and see what happens. I'm using the cheap
Radio Shack magnet wire, and I did notice some of the green insulation (tiny
pieces) stripping off as I wound the toroid; however, I checked each
winding for shorts when I finished and it was OK.
Thanks again (and again and again) for the help and encouragement.
73 de Lee. KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] The DBM Blues Get Bluer...
> At 05:48 PM 12/13/01 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>
> >After spending a weekend staring at the DBM and pre-mixer rf amplifier
> >without finding anything wrong, I started lifting wires and checking
> >components. Still no joy, so I called Jake, N4UY, and he agreed to cast
a
> >new set of eyes on this thing. Well we spent several hours and can't
find
> >anything wrong - other than it doesn't play. We directly coupled a 7.040
> >oscillator to pad A, trimmed TC1 and TC2 for max signal.
>
> What about the tuning of TC9, or did you use the fixed capacitor
> approach. The tuning of TC9 is quite broad. Do you have the RF
> gain control wired in? If so, can you see the signal coming out
> of the wiper vary with changing its setting?
>
> > These tuned very
> >sharply - maybe too sharp?
>
> Well they should be distinct, but not to the point of being
> touchy.
>
> > We then traced back towards the DBM.
> >
> >We observed a smaller signal at the emitter of Q4 and a much larger
signal
> >at the collector of Q4.
>
> That's good. It's amplifying as it should be, hopefully by
> 12 dB.
>
> >The signals at the junctions of the mixer diodes were significantly
> >different. Unfortunately, I can't remember whether the signals at T3
were
> >greater than T4 or vice versa.
>
> The signals from T4, pins 3 and 6 should match in level, and
> those on T3, pins 3 and 6 should also be matched in level, but
> lower than the signals from T4.
>
>
> >Tuning the VFO (a nice clean, sold 2volt signal T4 (1), revealed no joy.
We
> >finally computed the oscillator setting necessary to get us the 7.040
signal
> >at 4.915, pre-set the oscillator and did hear a very faint signal in the
> >station receiver tuned to 4.915.
>
> I assume you are taking the signal to the external receiver off of
> port "C".
>
>
> >To make the situation even more complicated, the signals observed in my
> >2N2-40 were approximately the same as those in Jake's radio; however,
Jake's
> >radio plays and can copy stations other than the 7.040 oscillator. We
both
> >gave up after about three hours. We are fresh out of airspeed, altitude
and
> >ideas? Any suggestions before I junk all my stuff and buy golf clubs?
>
> My guess is that either T3 or T4 are not wound/connected correctly,
> or that either of them or both have a shorted turn. Either condition
> will render the DBM incapable of operating correctly.
>
> Don't junk it! The design is solid, so if it doesn't work, the
> problem is with something in the execution. Send the rig to
> me at my call book address, and I'll figure out what the trouble
> is, and send it back.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Out of curiosity, is this method any different from selecting them based on
the reading from my Fluke DVM in the diode testing position? I thought that
the reading I get from the Fluke is the voltage dropped my the diode under
test.
73 de Lee (winding toroids)
KM4YY
Karate is a form of martial arts in which people who have had years and
years of training can, using only their hands and feet, make some of the
worst movies in the history of the world.
--Dave Barry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: The DBM Blues Get Bluer...
> At 10:40 AM 12/14/01 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
> >-snip-
>
>
>
> >I tried again last night, but the only thing I could here was a faint
signal
> >that turned out to be coming from the VFO oscillator. The VFO frequency
was
> >2.098 when I could hear it on the station receiver at 4.195 mhz. I was
> >going to pull out the diodes today, but I'm waiting to get Jim's advice
as
> >to how to match them.
>
> Best way that I've found for matching diodes is a simple test jig with
> a 1 k resistor feeding a diode from a regulated supply at 9 volts.
> Just measure the forward drop across a bunch, and pick 4 that are
> within 1 mv of each other. Those seem to work fine, and are well
> matched in the DBM.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
After 5 hours of messing around I finally made a signal source (using
a 2N2222 of course !), it took less than 10 minutes !
Attached around 20 feet of wire to aerial input and threw 10 feet of
that out of window. Oscillator has 12 inch aerial.
After peaking trimmers I can just hear the oscillator when it is 30
feet away. Nice loud signal at 3 feet. Some CW signals coming
through, although *very* weak, maybe RST 319 on the 2n2-40 where the
same signal is 539 on the general coverage receiver with 5 foot whip.
A bit deaf maybe, but at least it's working !
Will carry on with next stage and come back to Front End if it still
seems deaf then.
Should be out of hospital over weekend so at least will have access
to scope etc.
Thanks for the help so far
73 Steve G4GXL
|
1230|1229|2001-12-14 11:51:01|Lee Mairs|Re: FE may be OK !|Steve -
Sounds good to me! I just rewound my first T4. I think there were only 9
turns on it. I've carefully mapped turn pairs and will install the new T4
next.
Glad you are escaping the confines of the hospital. Talk about something
crimping your homebrewing style...
72 de Lee, km4yy
Reality is an illusion that occurs due to the lack of alcohol.
-- Anonymous
----- Original Message -----
From: "g4gxl" <g4gxl@btinternet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 11:15 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] FE may be OK !
> After 5 hours of messing around I finally made a signal source (using
> a 2N2222 of course !), it took less than 10 minutes !
>
> Attached around 20 feet of wire to aerial input and threw 10 feet of
> that out of window. Oscillator has 12 inch aerial.
>
> After peaking trimmers I can just hear the oscillator when it is 30
> feet away. Nice loud signal at 3 feet. Some CW signals coming
> through, although *very* weak, maybe RST 319 on the 2n2-40 where the
> same signal is 539 on the general coverage receiver with 5 foot whip.
>
> A bit deaf maybe, but at least it's working !
> Will carry on with next stage and come back to Front End if it still
> seems deaf then.
>
> Should be out of hospital over weekend so at least will have access
> to scope etc.
>
> Thanks for the help so far
>
> 73 Steve G4GXL
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Can I use the metal 2n2222 in place of the plastic ones in the
transmitter section...Same HFE right?
Wes
|
1232|1231|2001-12-14 14:03:50|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: transistors|At 01:14 PM 12/14/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Can I use the metal 2n2222 in place of the plastic ones in the
>transmitter section...Same HFE right?
>
>Wes
Yes, metal and plastic have the same gain. The metal are
easier to heat sink.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 11:15 AM 12/14/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Out of curiosity, is this method any different from selecting them based on
>the reading from my Fluke DVM in the diode testing position? I thought that
>the reading I get from the Fluke is the voltage dropped my the diode under
>test.
>
>73 de Lee (winding toroids)
>KM4YY
Lee,
I depends on how your DVM is setup to read diode forward drop.
I have DMMs that read the real forward resistance. All the
diode position does is reverse the polarity at the leads so
that the leads follow convention; red being positive, and black
being negative. Other DMM/DVMs could easily measure the foward
drop directly in mv. What your Fluke does is unknown to me.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim and the gang -
I rewound and replaced the DBM transformers on either side of the diode
matrix and re-checked the diodes. Still not joy other than hearing the
oscillator's 2nd harmonic on 4.195 (when the VFO is tuned to 2.097). I even
tried connecting the big rig's 40 meter dipole. Just picked up more hash
and the 2nd harmonic was bigger.
I'll be in WV this weekend with a signal source (MFJ antenna analyzer) and
my Tektronix 453. I'll make up a Vpp chart starting at the antenna trimmer
and working all the way down and thru the DBM. I'll take all the 4148s in
captivity (except those pre-selected by Jim for the VBW filter) and try and
get the four closest to replace those currently in the circuit.
Doesn't the strong 2nd harmonic indicate that the received (external) signal
is dwarfed somewhere in the mixer or pre-mixer rf amplifier?
73 de Lee, km4yy
|
1235|1235|2001-12-14 16:02:39|Howard Kraus|2N2/6 success!|Jim, the xtals you sent did the trick on the receive
side of the transverter. No other mods, fixes,
hair-pulling. Worked right off the bat. Don't know
the numbers, but the rcv side sounds like it has
plenty of sensitivity with the alignment oscillator.
Like that bald wabbit hunter said, "thank you doctuh,
you weally did the twick."
On to the xmit side, already found R31 missing (feeds
the 1st xmit RF amp). Will keep you posted of more
success.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at
http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at
http://auctions.yahoo.comAt 01:02 PM 12/14/01 -0800, you wrote:
>Jim, the xtals you sent did the trick on the receive
>side of the transverter. No other mods, fixes,
>hair-pulling. Worked right off the bat. Don't know
>the numbers, but the rcv side sounds like it has
>plenty of sensitivity with the alignment oscillator.
>
>Like that bald wabbit hunter said, "thank you doctuh,
>you weally did the twick."
>
>On to the xmit side, already found R31 missing (feeds
>the 1st xmit RF amp). Will keep you posted of more
>success.
>
>72
>
>Howard Kraus, K2UD
Howard,
Glad they did the trick. It's nice having a stock of the
goodies that go into my designs. I'll order a few more the
next time Mouser and I need to do business! :-)
Hope you use some of those dual gate MOSFETs for one of
W1FB/W1CER neat old designs needing a 40673.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Gang,
I've been going through my 2n2-40 taking measurements with the
o'scope and learning things along the way. The scope tutorial from
NA5N is excellent.
My question is about the Mixer amp, Q5. I'm feeding the radio with a
7.040Mhz crystal oscillator. On the emitter of Q5 I get about 400mV
p2p, 300mV on the base and 200mV on the collector.
So what I'm wondering is this; if the transistor is supposed to
insert gain and I've got 300mV on the base and 200mV on the
collector, isn't this a loss? Have I got this right?
73 John, N1QO
|
1238|1234|2001-12-14 21:12:23|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: The DBM Blues - Still Deaf.|At 03:54 PM 12/14/01 -0500, Lee, km4yy wrote:
>Jim and the gang -
>I rewound and replaced the DBM transformers on either side of the diode
>matrix and re-checked the diodes. Still not joy other than hearing the
>oscillator's 2nd harmonic on 4.195 (when the VFO is tuned to 2.097).
Whoooo.....are you indicating you are listening to the output of
the DBM on 4.195 MHz? If so, that is the problem. The second
receiver has to be tuned to 4.9152 MHz, not 4.195. You should be
above the 2nd harmonic of the VFO. That's why the VFO is where it
is, and the IF is where it is, to keep those two apart.
> I even
>tried connecting the big rig's 40 meter dipole. Just picked up more hash
>and the 2nd harmonic was bigger.
Not surprised by that.........
>I'll be in WV this weekend with a signal source (MFJ antenna analyzer) and
>my Tektronix 453. I'll make up a Vpp chart starting at the antenna trimmer
>and working all the way down and thru the DBM. I'll take all the 4148s in
>captivity (except those pre-selected by Jim for the VBW filter) and try and
>get the four closest to replace those currently in the circuit.
Well make sure you are listening at the correct frequency for the
IF signal. I repeat......4 . 9 1 5 2 MHz is where you want the
2nd receiver tuned that is attached to port "C".
>Doesn't the strong 2nd harmonic indicate that the received (external) signal
>is dwarfed somewhere in the mixer or pre-mixer rf amplifier?
No, not at all. The second harmonic just generates another set of mixing
products that get stripped out by the crystal filter. Same thing with
the 3rd, 4th, 5th, yada yada.....
72 and thanks for the feedback,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
UNSEND
Stupid operator trick.
Will explain when embarasment wears off.
At 02:04 AM 12/15/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi Gang,
>
>I've been going through my 2n2-40 taking measurements with the
>o'scope and learning things along the way. The scope tutorial from
>NA5N is excellent.
>
>My question is about the Mixer amp, Q5. I'm feeding the radio with a
>7.040Mhz crystal oscillator. On the emitter of Q5 I get about 400mV
>p2p, 300mV on the base and 200mV on the collector.
>
>So what I'm wondering is this; if the transistor is supposed to
>insert gain and I've got 300mV on the base and 200mV on the
>collector, isn't this a loss? Have I got this right?
>
>73 John, N1QO
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hello Group,
I'm just about finished with Section 4 (IF). When I went to install C25, I
discovered that I do not have a 680pF cap. Would it be ok to substitute an
820pF or possibly use two 330pF caps? Thanks in advance for the
assistance.
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
|
1241|1234|2001-12-14 23:08:48|Lee Mairs|Re: The DBM Blues - Still Deaf.|Jim -
I just checked my email after a fruitless night. I guess my dyslexia is
getting worse, for I sure have had the comms receiver set at 4.195 - and for
the last two days! I couldn't sleep without checking, but found little joy.
There is a whooshing signal sweeping across the 4.915 sort of like you might
hear on the DX's split frequency from some idiot who'd already worked him.
I've fiddled so much with the trimmer capacitors that I'll need a signal
source to get started again. I'll have that and my scope tomorrow in WBGV.
Wow! I am going to sleep better tonight than I was an hour ago.
Thanks again for the help.
Lee, KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: The DBM Blues - Still Deaf.
> At 03:54 PM 12/14/01 -0500, Lee, km4yy wrote:
>
> >Jim and the gang -
> >I rewound and replaced the DBM transformers on either side of the diode
> >matrix and re-checked the diodes. Still not joy other than hearing the
> >oscillator's 2nd harmonic on 4.195 (when the VFO is tuned to 2.097).
>
> Whoooo.....are you indicating you are listening to the output of
> the DBM on 4.195 MHz? If so, that is the problem. The second
> receiver has to be tuned to 4.9152 MHz, not 4.195. You should be
> above the 2nd harmonic of the VFO. That's why the VFO is where it
> is, and the IF is where it is, to keep those two apart.
>
> > I even
> >tried connecting the big rig's 40 meter dipole. Just picked up more hash
> >and the 2nd harmonic was bigger.
>
> Not surprised by that.........
>
>
> >I'll be in WV this weekend with a signal source (MFJ antenna analyzer)
and
> >my Tektronix 453. I'll make up a Vpp chart starting at the antenna
trimmer
> >and working all the way down and thru the DBM. I'll take all the 4148s
in
> >captivity (except those pre-selected by Jim for the VBW filter) and try
and
> >get the four closest to replace those currently in the circuit.
>
> Well make sure you are listening at the correct frequency for the
> IF signal. I repeat......4 . 9 1 5 2 MHz is where you want the
> 2nd receiver tuned that is attached to port "C".
>
>
> >Doesn't the strong 2nd harmonic indicate that the received (external)
signal
> >is dwarfed somewhere in the mixer or pre-mixer rf amplifier?
>
> No, not at all. The second harmonic just generates another set of mixing
> products that get stripped out by the crystal filter. Same thing with
> the 3rd, 4th, 5th, yada yada.....
> There is a whooshing signal sweeping across the 4.915 ...
Lee, with all the testing you have done so far I can't believe
you have a problem with T6.
But for the record that's the sort of thing I got when the FE was taking
off.
Problem was the 1 turn winding on T6 (new layout) being out of phase.
Lift one end and take through other side of toroid then back down to pad.
73 Steve G4GXL
You Betcha you can
S'pose 20 people wrote and said this, but then maybe not. J
Good luck on your project OM
73 72
Bill KE9XQ
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
1244|1244|2001-12-15 11:57:15|John Wagner|RF Amp gain|OK, let me try to do this without embarassing myself again.
Using an heath rf generator, I'm feeding in a signal into my any input.
At the point on T6 where C17 and one end of the 1 turn primary meet, I
get about 50mV of p-p power. On the other end of the 1 turn primary
(i.e. after passing through the 'roid) and at the emitter of Q4, I get
NO RF voltage p-p, which seems odd. At the collector of Q4, where it
meets with the 11T secondary of T6 I got a nice sine wave at about
600mV. At the tap point in T6 I see about 150mV at the same freq. The
base of Q4 shows no RF at all.
Does this seem right? How come there is no RF on the other side of the
1T in T6 yet somehow Q4 amplifies what is seen at the junction of
T6/C17?
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 10:45 PM 12/14/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello Group,
>
>I'm just about finished with Section 4 (IF). When I went to install C25, I
>discovered that I do not have a 680pF cap. Would it be ok to substitute an
>820pF or possibly use two 330pF caps? Thanks in advance for the
>assistance.
>
>72 de Pat KF4LMZ
Pat, the 820 MAY work ok, but could also make the gain of the
IF amp pair too high, and the stage will self oscillate. Try it,
and if it doesn't seem to be acting right, put in the pair of 330pF
caps. Those will work just fine.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
OK John,
The gain of the Rf stage should be measured from T2-4 and
C17 to C15 and T3-1....this should have a common GND REF...
Remember that this a feedback amp and any measurement in the
amp depends on input signal...
Wes
At 11:59 AM 12/15/01 -0500, you wrote:
>OK, let me try to do this without embarassing myself again.
>
>Using an heath rf generator, I'm feeding in a signal into my any input.
>
>At the point on T6 where C17 and one end of the 1 turn primary meet, I
>get about 50mV of p-p power. On the other end of the 1 turn primary
>(i.e. after passing through the 'roid) and at the emitter of Q4, I get
>NO RF voltage p-p, which seems odd. At the collector of Q4, where it
>meets with the 11T secondary of T6 I got a nice sine wave at about
>600mV. At the tap point in T6 I see about 150mV at the same freq. The
>base of Q4 shows no RF at all.
>
>Does this seem right? How come there is no RF on the other side of the
>1T in T6 yet somehow Q4 amplifies what is seen at the junction of
>T6/C17?
>
>Thanks es 73,
>
>John, N1QO
>--
>John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
>Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 15:17:09 -0500
>To: WM-Scace@wiu.edu
>From: Wes Clopton <W3ERU@DRIX.NET>
>Subject: Re: 10M Contest
>
>4. Contest Exchange:
>W/VE stations (including Hawaii and Alaska) send signal report and state
>or province (District of Columbia stations send signal report and DC).
>Novice and Technician Plus stations sign /N or /T on CW. If used, you must
>indicate /N or /T on your summary sheet.
>DX stations (including KH2, KP4, etc) transmit signal report and
>sequential serial number starting with 001.
>Maritime mobile stations send signal report and ITU Region (1,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>At 08:07 PM 12/15/01 +0000, you wrote:
>> Hi Gang,
>> Wayne K9DI es Sequoia here. would someone pse email me with the
>> contest exchange fer the 10M contest?
>>72 es MOO/OO
>>
>>Respectfully and Sincerely Yours,
>>
>>Wayne M. Scace
>>
>>k9di@arrl.net
>>LICQ# 315313
>>FISTS# 4409
>>QRP-L# 2313
>>FPQRP-L# 217
>>SOC# 452
>>ARS # 1,082
>>Zombie # 800
>>http://k9di.homestead.com/K9DIHam1.html
I just made up a test jig to allow me to select the 1N4148 diodes
for the DBM in my 2n2-40. I assume the selection is not as critical
for the SB Mixer diodes and the Product Detector diodes. Right?
Since I don't have a good 9v regulated supply (other than wall warts)
I ended up using my 12v supply and a 120 ohm resistor instead
of a 1K to keep the current around 10 ma.
I found quite a variation among my stock of 1N4148's, but
found 4 that are had a 730 mv drop. Range was from 724 to 741.
Now my question, because I am curious. I noticed on many occasions
that after they were powered up for about 8 seconds or so and the
DVM sampling seemed to "settle in" on the value, they seemed to have
a sudden drop of about 7mv or so, lasting for less than a second, and
then they went back to the "normal" value. Is this just a measuring error,
or is there really something that makes them drop off for a brief time.
Warming effect? Just curious.
Building the torroids today for the RF Input filter, RF amp and DBM.
Trying to take my time and being extremely careful here, because I know
how touchy they can be and how easy it is to do them wrong.
73,
- Craig, AAØZZ
|
1249|1248|2001-12-15 15:28:28|Wes Clopton|Re: DBM diode testing|a 9 volt battery is a good source...
At 02:24 PM 12/15/01 -0600, you wrote:
>I just made up a test jig to allow me to select the 1N4148 diodes
>for the DBM in my 2n2-40. I assume the selection is not as critical
>for the SB Mixer diodes and the Product Detector diodes. Right?
>
>Since I don't have a good 9v regulated supply (other than wall warts)
>I ended up using my 12v supply and a 120 ohm resistor instead
>of a 1K to keep the current around 10 ma.
>
>I found quite a variation among my stock of 1N4148's, but
>found 4 that are had a 730 mv drop. Range was from 724 to 741.
>
>Now my question, because I am curious. I noticed on many occasions
>that after they were powered up for about 8 seconds or so and the
>DVM sampling seemed to "settle in" on the value, they seemed to have
>a sudden drop of about 7mv or so, lasting for less than a second, and
>then they went back to the "normal" value. Is this just a measuring error,
>or is there really something that makes them drop off for a brief time.
>Warming effect? Just curious.
>
>Building the torroids today for the RF Input filter, RF amp and DBM.
>Trying to take my time and being extremely careful here, because I know
>how touchy they can be and how easy it is to do them wrong.
>
>73,
>- Craig, AAØZZ
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Sorry,
I used a 1200 ohm resistor (1.2K), not 120 ohm as I said in my
previous post.
72,
Craig, AAØZZ
|
1251|1251|2001-12-15 15:32:35|Craig Johnson|Diode testing|Wes
I haven't had very good luck with 9v batteries for testing something
like this. I suppose they will work OK for since the draw is only10 ma
but I prefer something that lasts for a bit longer without the voltage
dropping off.
72,
Craig, AAØZZ
|
1252|1248|2001-12-15 15:56:33|Steve Smith|Re: DBM diode testing|Craig,
I matched over 200 diodes during the kitting of the transistor/diode kits
and experienced the same thing. I belive it's due to the diode junction
temp. rising slightly while under "power".
73.......Steve Smith, WB6TNL
Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
On Sat, 15 Dec 2001 14:24:28 -0600 "Craig Johnson"
<
cbjohns@mn.mediaone.net> writes:
> Now my question, because I am curious. I noticed on many occasions
> that after they were powered up for about 8 seconds or so and the
> DVM sampling seemed to "settle in" on the value, they seemed to have
> a sudden drop of about 7mv or so, lasting for less than a second,
> and
> then they went back to the "normal" value. Is this just a measuring
> error,
> or is there really something that makes them drop off for a brief
> time.
> Warming effect? Just curious.
>
> Building the torroids today for the RF Input filter, RF amp and
> DBM.
> Trying to take my time and being extremely careful here, because I
> know
> how touchy they can be and how easy it is to do them wrong.
>
> 73,
> - Craig, AAØZZ
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.At 02:24 PM 12/15/01 -0600, Craig, AAØZZ wrote:
>I just made up a test jig to allow me to select the 1N4148 diodes
>for the DBM in my 2n2-40. I assume the selection is not as critical
>for the SB Mixer diodes and the Product Detector diodes. Right?
Actually it is. With any mixer, the better the balance of the
transformers and diodes, the better the mixer works, and the
lower the spurious outputs are.
>Since I don't have a good 9v regulated supply (other than wall warts)
>I ended up using my 12v supply and a 120 ohm resistor instead
>of a 1K to keep the current around 10 ma.
Youch! That combo puts 100 milliamps through the diode, not
10 milliamps. Hope you didn't fry all of them.
>I found quite a variation among my stock of 1N4148's, but
>found 4 that are had a 730 mv drop. Range was from 724 to 741.
They were probably getting kinda warm. I'd go back and try
the measurements again with the 12 volt supply and a 1.2 or 1.5K
resistor in series with the diode.
>Now my question, because I am curious. I noticed on many occasions
>that after they were powered up for about 8 seconds or so and the
>DVM sampling seemed to "settle in" on the value, they seemed to have
>a sudden drop of about 7mv or so, lasting for less than a second, and
>then they went back to the "normal" value. Is this just a measuring error,
>or is there really something that makes them drop off for a brief time.
>Warming effect? Just curious.
In your setup, I'd guess warming up the junction quite a bit might
be responsible for this action.
>Building the torroids today for the RF Input filter, RF amp and DBM.
>Trying to take my time and being extremely careful here, because I know
>how touchy they can be and how easy it is to do them wrong.
Roger that.....a very good place not to rush things.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 11:59 AM 12/15/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>OK, let me try to do this without embarassing myself again.
I don't think you embarassed yourself.......
>Using an heath rf generator, I'm feeding in a signal into my any input.
>
>At the point on T6 where C17 and one end of the 1 turn primary meet, I
>get about 50mV of p-p power. On the other end of the 1 turn primary
>(i.e. after passing through the 'roid) and at the emitter of Q4, I get
>NO RF voltage p-p, which seems odd.
Only at the moment. If you recall, it uses negative feedback
and the transformer turns ratios to set the gain. The input and
the negative feedback are at the emitter, so after the amplifier
sees enough input signal to satisfy the gain requirement, it is
feeding back sufficient signal to cancel out the "remaining"
input. The emitter node then becomes a virtual ground, with
no apparent signal. Kinda the same thing you get with an
op amp with feedback.
> At the collector of Q4, where it
>meets with the 11T secondary of T6 I got a nice sine wave at about
>600mV. At the tap point in T6 I see about 150mV at the same freq.
Using your numbers, I calculate a gain of 9.5 dB, which is a bit
low from what the stage actually produces. The transformer
turns ratio is set for 12 dB of gain. With more accurate
measurements, you'd get exactly that number.
> The
>base of Q4 shows no RF at all.
That's because the design is a grounded base configuration. The
base has DC voltage on it, but no RF. That's what C14 does, bypass
the base lead.
>Does this seem right?
Does to me........
> How come there is no RF on the other side of the
>1T in T6 yet somehow Q4 amplifies what is seen at the junction of
>T6/C17?
See above explanation. For those who are interested in more details,
I'd suggest reading page 218 of Wes Hayward, W7ZOI "Introduction
to Radio Frequency Design". Details on the transformer turns ratio
are there also.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
My DBM is working fb now. A six foot piece of wire got me a whole bunch of
4s,8s, and 9s this afternoon when I finally got a signal source and my scope
to bear on the problem. Of course, it isn't all good news - the scope
appears to be intermittent; however the first 3 stages of my 2N2-40 is now
working as it was supposed to.
Thanks to Jim for recognizing my dyslexic reading of the article as 4.195
instead of 4.915. Also. my apologies to Jake, N4UY for wasting 3 hours of
his time.
On to the VBW! Now this is really fun again.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
The aspiration toward freedom is the most essentially human of all human
manifestations.
--Eric Hoffer
|
1256|1234|2001-12-16 11:41:07|Lee Mairs|Re: The DBM Blues - Still Deaf.|Steve -
I think the whooshing (about a 1/2 sec period) was some consumer
electronics toy in my house in Virginia or the neighbors. Out here in WBGV
(West By-God Virginia) it is a lot rf quieter and I couldn't hear the
whooshing signals. Anyway. all seems to be well. On to Stage 4.
73 de Lee, km4yy
As the Founding Fathers knew well, a government that does not trust its
honest,
law-abiding, taxpaying citizens with the means of self-defense is not itself
worthy of trust. Laws disarming honest citizens proclaim that the government
is the master, not the servant, of the people.
--Jeff Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Fletcher" <g4gxl@btinternet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 5:51 AM
Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Re: The DBM Blues - Still Deaf.
> > There is a whooshing signal sweeping across the 4.915 ...
>
> Lee, with all the testing you have done so far I can't believe
> you have a problem with T6.
>
> But for the record that's the sort of thing I got when the FE was taking
> off.
> Problem was the 1 turn winding on T6 (new layout) being out of phase.
> Lift one end and take through other side of toroid then back down to pad.
>
> 73 Steve G4GXL
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hello
I have sent my orders off for the parts that I dont have to get
started on the 2N2/40 and while I was waiting on them I was thinking
about starting the 17M Transverter. I have the NJQRP club kit here
and was wondering if this is a good place for a beginner to start?
Would it be better for me to start with the 2N2/40? I have saw a
couple of posts about the 17M kit and I hope this post is ok? Thanks
72 de ke4vpn
BTW Thanks to all the group that have helped with parts for the
2N2/40, it has been a big help.
|
1258|1255|2001-12-16 14:00:08|n4uy|Re: DBM Ain't Blue No MOore!! |--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs"
wrote:
> My DBM is working fb now. A six foot piece of wire got me a whole
bunch of
> 4s,8s, and 9s this afternoon when I finally got a signal source and
my scope
> to bear on the problem
Also. my apologies to Jake, N4UY for wasting 3 hours of
> his time.
>
> On to the VBW! Now this is really fun again.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
Lee -- KM4YY:
It was a good 3 hours -- got me back up to speed on my 2N2-40 :-)
What was the fix??
Jake -- N4UYHi Jim,
More tales of woe, I'm good for it!
Rcvr is good, on to the xmit side. Here's what I
have:
Driving the transverter with 2W from my Arogonaut.
I hear good clean 50MHz output on my 6M rig.
Cannot measure any output on the wattmeter, even in
the 100mw position. The same meter will indicate 6M
output on a 3W rig.
I am able to peak the 4 trimmers in the xmit section
as registered on the 6M rig's S meter, and measured at
T11/C33 (output of the driver) with my VTVM/RF probe.
All trimmers provide 2 peaks, I like that. The driver
pot is set to max, and seems to effect max output on
the same S meter and VTVM/RF probe.
I can confirm that the T/R switch is working
correctly.
I can confirm correct Vcc and TxVcc voltages
throughout the xmit section.
All xmit transistors look good individually as tested
on a DC volt/ohm meter.
As near as I can tell, all toroidal xfmrs are
wound/wired correctly. I would still like to question
this though, as the FDIM 2000 compendium and Winter 99
QRPp are not real clear on how to wind T7-T11.
I wish to believe that my problems are associated with
RF levels. What I lack are an o'scope and/or spectrum
analyzer to measure levels and frequencies throughout
the xmit chain.
What I would like to know is:
Are there corrections/errata for the 2N2/6 that have
not been published?
What is the correct winding for T7-T11. That is,
correct primary/secondary # of turns, sense,
"hot/cold" ends? The articles do not contain winding
diagrams for T7-T11, and I would really like to point
to one or more of them as my problem. I am following
Paul's section hand drawings, and the schematics for
proper winding. There still seems to be some
confusion on my part here.
When I wound T7-T11, I would start turn 1 of the
primary at the same end of the toroid as turn 3 of
the secondary, and call both of these the "cold" end
of their respective windings. This does not
neccessarily mean that ground would be connected to
the "cold" end, as the schematics will indicate.
Toroid winding convention seems to be different on
some of the toroids as shown in the schematics.
I'm still trying to elimanate all possibilities, both
circuit and common sense. The test equipment here is
spartan, but I manage to trudge along.
One big question, and this may lead to an overall
cure. What type of output should I realize on rcv,
when applying the 2N2/6 alignment generator to the
transverter's input? That is, should my rcv audio be
"wall to wall," or should I expect some amount of
noise along with signal? I wonder if I'm not
providing the proper amount of drive from the LO and
DBM to both the xmit and rcv sides.
I think I see light at the end of tunnel, and I hope
it's not a train!
Thank you again for any more insight you might be able
to provide.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at
http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at
http://auctions.yahoo.comHi Jim,
I'm now working the IF and got to the end of the +40db amp in the IF.
Went to check the signal and nothing while it's there at the input to
the mixer amp. Checked through the variable xtal filter and hear it
up
to the 180pf cap and even past T7 on the secondary. Soo, I do some
checking, voltages first. Using the @N@/40+ diagram (measurements to
ground), VCC 11.5 (source is a bit low but shouldn't be an issue),
Q6e=.152,b=.8,c=7.8; Q7e=6.9,b=7.8,c=11.0. THis would seem to
indicate
that both transistors are biased as the base to emitter junction is
.6-.7V. I started with C25 as the one from the old drawing (860pf I
believe) and saw your note about too much gain so I changed it to
660pf, nodifference. On the scope I see a signal that looks like an
overloaded amp. flat on the bottom for most of the cycle and a spike
around the rate of the input signal. Not sure how to discribe it. If
I
had a picture I'm sure it would be better. Anyway, I take C25
completly off and the signal goes away. I do get a faint signal from
the output at C26 when C25 is disconnected. I thought about changing
the phasing of T8 but no change. Not sure where to go from here. Any
ideas?
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
|
1261|1257|2001-12-16 20:34:41|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 17M NJQRP kit|At 05:19 PM 12/16/01 +0000, ke4vpn wrote:
>Hello
>I have sent my orders off for the parts that I dont have to get
>started on the 2N2/40 and while I was waiting on them I was thinking
>about starting the 17M Transverter. I have the NJQRP club kit here
>and was wondering if this is a good place for a beginner to start?
Don't know quite what to tell you Ron. From a technical and
construction standpoint, the 4017 transverter is quite a bit
easier to build than the 2N2/40. It has far fewer parts, and
the layout isn't at all critical, but without a 40 meter rig
available, there is no way to test it. That's the downside
of doing the transverter first I guess. If you are confident
of your building abilities, then starting on the transverter
makes some sense.
>
>Would it be better for me to start with the 2N2/40?
See comments above........
> I have saw a
>couple of posts about the 17M kit and I hope this post is ok?
Sure is with me. Actually, anything mildly associated with the
2N2/40 building or Manhattan-style construction is ok on this
list I'd think.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
PS.....did your filter kit arrive OK?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Gang,
Has anybody tried the Rx Mute circuit using the J176 FET?
I'd like to get some feedback on how well that circuit is working
for others.
72 and many thanks,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
1263|1257|2001-12-16 21:19:10|ke4vpn|Re: 17M NJQRP kit|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 05:19 PM 12/16/01 +0000, ke4vpn wrote:
>
> >Hello
> >I have sent my orders off for the parts that I dont have to get
> >started on the 2N2/40 and while I was waiting on them I was
thinking
> >about starting the 17M Transverter. I have the NJQRP club kit here
> >and was wondering if this is a good place for a beginner to start?
>
> Don't know quite what to tell you Ron. From a technical and
> construction standpoint, the 4017 transverter is quite a bit
> easier to build than the 2N2/40. It has far fewer parts, and
> the layout isn't at all critical, but without a 40 meter rig
> available, there is no way to test it. That's the downside
> of doing the transverter first I guess. If you are confident
> of your building abilities, then starting on the transverter
> makes some sense.
>
Jim I have a Wilderness Sierra that I can use the transverter with
untill I get the 2N2/40 built.
> >Would it be better for me to start with the 2N2/40?
>
> See comments above........
>
> > I have saw a
> >couple of posts about the 17M kit and I hope this post is ok?
>
> Sure is with me. Actually, anything mildly associated with the
> 2N2/40 building or Manhattan-style construction is ok on this
> list I'd think.
>
> 72 and GL,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS.....did your filter kit arrive OK?
Yes Jim the filter kit did arrive in good shape and I appreciate it.
I have the resistors and a few other parts to go yet. I Thank you
for the great QRP work that you do and Paul sure does a good job on
the artwork. 72 de ke4vpn
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim,
I'm going to go with the pair of 330pF caps. Would they need to be
installed in series or parallel?
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
----------
> From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] C25 - Substitute
> Date: Saturday, December 15, 2001 12:46 PM
>
> At 10:45 PM 12/14/01 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Hello Group,
> >
> >I'm just about finished with Section 4 (IF). When I went to install
C25, I
> >discovered that I do not have a 680pF cap. Would it be ok to substitute
an
> >820pF or possibly use two 330pF caps? Thanks in advance for the
> >assistance.
> >
> >72 de Pat KF4LMZ
>
> Pat, the 820 MAY work ok, but could also make the gain of the
> IF amp pair too high, and the stage will self oscillate. Try it,
> and if it doesn't seem to be acting right, put in the pair of 330pF
> caps. Those will work just fine.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Pat,
Caps are figured just the opposite of resistors. IE., if you put two 330 pF caps in parallel, you would double the capacitance, resulting in 660 pF. Conversely, the two 330 pF caps in series would result in 165 pF.
Resistors would play out like this. Two 330 Ohm in parallel would give 165 Ohms, and two 330 Ohm in series would give 660 Ohms.
I hope this helps.
Bob WB8UOJ
72 es "OO"
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
1266|1262|2001-12-17 07:31:03|John Wagner|Re: J176 Rx Mute|I would like to try it but have no J176 FET. Will try it when I get one
though!
73 de John, N1QO
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> Has anybody tried the Rx Mute circuit using the J176 FET?
>
> I'd like to get some feedback on how well that circuit is working
> for others.
>
> 72 and many thanks,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comSame here! Looking for one to try it out
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> I would like to try it but have no J176 FET. Will try it when I get one
> though!
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> >
> > Gang,
> >
> > Has anybody tried the Rx Mute circuit using the J176 FET?
At 10:24 PM 12/16/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>I'm going to go with the pair of 330pF caps. Would they need to be
>installed in series or parallel?
>
>72 de Pat KF4LMZ
Pat,
They need to be in parallel. If you put them in series, you'll
only have 165pF.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Howard,
Got your message regarding problems with the transmit section
of your 2N2/6. I can probably help, but need to know some details
first.
I just took a series of pictures of each of the coils in mine, so
that you can see how I wound them. I'll send those to you if
you can receive binary attachments. The are all smallish
.jpg files, showing each of the coils.
Also, the schematics have each transformer marked with a black
dot as the beginning of the winding. Don't know if you saw
that, or recognized it for what it is.
Finally, did you align the transmit section using the Alignment
generator? If not, you should try that. The way that is done
is to short out the local oscillator by grounding the base of
transistor Q1. That keeps the 43 MHz signal from contaminating
the process. Next, hook the alignment generator to the top
of resistor R28, a 240 ohm on the output of the Tx SBM. Feeding
the signal there is equivalent to the level that should be present
when the rig is being driven with 2 watts from an external source.
Next, ground the collector of Q4 to cause Q5 to supply TxVcc to the
transmit sections. Peak each of the stages several times for max
output beginning with T7. There is some interaction among the
various stages, so it takes a couple of passes through the rig
to get everything peaked. Do the initial passes with Pot1
at it's lowest setting, so that the finals are not receiving drive.
After getting the early stages peaked, you can start advancing
Pot1 and repeaking TC8, as there is interaction as the driver gets
power, and starts driving the finals. Of course, the output needs
to be terminated with 50 ohms so that you don't blow the final
transistors. I also added a 33 volt Zener to the collectors to
ground of the finals to protect them. Got tired of replacing them
after taking them out a few times with high SWR when the antenna
tuner was trying to find a match.
As for changes, I've not made any to my rig except to use a
MPHS10 in place of a PN2222 for Q3. It's a bit hotter with
that transistor. If you do that, change R12 to 4.7K, and
change C11 to 330pF. Those are optimal values for getting
the most out of the MPHS10.
Let me know about the pictures, and I'll send you another
email with those attached. Should be less than 1/2 meg for
all of the pictures.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
1270|1260|2001-12-17 10:55:40|kd2kw|Re: IF Amp +40db Problem?|Hi Jim,
Others in Group,
One other thing I noticed is the signal I hear on the receiver
seems to be wavering a bit, even back to the input to the +9DBM mixer
amp. I thought it was the VFO but when I listen to it on the rcvr it
seems solid. I can see some changes in trace brightness with the
signal frequency change at the input of the +9dm mixer amp at the
mixer output transformer. When I remove the +9dbm mixer the wavering
goes away while listening to the signal on the mixer output
transformer. Could the problem be in the +9dbm mixer, it taking off on
an oscilation or something? Strange if the problem is with the +9db
mixer amp as I can hear the signal on the output of the xtal filter.
Perhaps I should look at the gain of the +9db mixer amp to see if it's
really performing?
Until I get some suggestions, thanks in advance.
75,
Ken
Spring, Texas
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "kd2kw" wrote:
> Hi Jim,
>
> I'm now working the IF and got to the end of the +40db amp in the
IF.
> Went to check the signal and nothing while it's there at the input
to
> the mixer amp. Checked through the variable xtal filter and hear it
> up
> to the 180pf cap and even past T7 on the secondary. Soo, I do some
> checking, voltages first. Using the @N@/40+ diagram (measurements to
> ground), VCC 11.5 (source is a bit low but shouldn't be an issue),
> Q6e=.152,b=.8,c=7.8; Q7e=6.9,b=7.8,c=11.0. THis would seem to
> indicate
> that both transistors are biased as the base to emitter junction is
> .6-.7V. I started with C25 as the one from the old drawing (860pf I
> believe) and saw your note about too much gain so I changed it to
> 660pf, nodifference. On the scope I see a signal that looks like an
> overloaded amp. flat on the bottom for most of the cycle and a spike
> around the rate of the input signal. Not sure how to discribe it. If
> I
> had a picture I'm sure it would be better. Anyway, I take C25
> completly off and the signal goes away. I do get a faint signal from
> the output at C26 when C25 is disconnected. I thought about changing
> the phasing of T8 but no change. Not sure where to go from here. Any
> ideas?
>
> 73,
> Ken, KD2KW
> Spring, Texas
Add caps in parallel.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick York" <pyork@cetlink.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] C25 - Substitute
> Jim,
>
> I'm going to go with the pair of 330pF caps. Would they need to be
> installed in series or parallel?
>
> 72 de Pat KF4LMZ
>
> ----------
> > From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] C25 - Substitute
> > Date: Saturday, December 15, 2001 12:46 PM
> >
> > At 10:45 PM 12/14/01 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> > >Hello Group,
> > >
> > >I'm just about finished with Section 4 (IF). When I went to install
> C25, I
> > >discovered that I do not have a 680pF cap. Would it be ok to
substitute
> an
> > >820pF or possibly use two 330pF caps? Thanks in advance for the
> > >assistance.
> > >
> > >72 de Pat KF4LMZ
> >
> > Pat, the 820 MAY work ok, but could also make the gain of the
> > IF amp pair too high, and the stage will self oscillate. Try it,
> > and if it doesn't seem to be acting right, put in the pair of 330pF
> > caps. Those will work just fine.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> >
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 12:07 AM 12/17/01 +0000, Ken, KD2KW wrote:
>Hi Jim,
>
>I'm now working the IF and got to the end of the +40db amp in the IF.
>Went to check the signal and nothing while it's there at the input to
>the mixer amp. Checked through the variable xtal filter and hear it
>up
>to the 180pf cap and even past T7 on the secondary. Soo, I do some
>checking, voltages first. Using the @N@/40+ diagram (measurements to
>ground), VCC 11.5 (source is a bit low but shouldn't be an issue),
>Q6e=.152,b=.8,c=7.8; Q7e=6.9,b=7.8,c=11.0.
Ken.....these voltages look nominally OK, but the collector voltage
on Q6 is a bit too high. I'd like to see more like 5.5 to 6 volts,
which gives a bit more headway for Q7. It might be that Q6 is short
on gain, or maybe just tolerances on the resistors that you used.
Were not getting quite enough current through Q6, and that's why
it's collector voltage is high. A couple of ideas to try. 1)
change R23 down to a 49K to up the base bias a tad. That should
get more current flowing, and lower the collector voltage a bit.
2) Change R24, the collector resistor on Q6 to 1.1K or 1.2K.
That should do the same thing using a different approach.
Also, check that T8 is wound correctly, installed correctly, and
doesn't have a shorted turn etc.
>THis would seem to
>indicate
>that both transistors are biased as the base to emitter junction is
>.6-.7V. I started with C25 as the one from the old drawing (860pf I
>believe) and saw your note about too much gain so I changed it to
>660pf, nodifference. On the scope I see a signal that looks like an
>overloaded amp. flat on the bottom for most of the cycle and a spike
>around the rate of the input signal. Not sure how to discribe it. If
>I
>had a picture I'm sure it would be better. Anyway, I take C25
>completly off and the signal goes away. I do get a faint signal from
>the output at C26 when C25 is disconnected. I thought about changing
>the phasing of T8 but no change. Not sure where to go from here. Any
>ideas?
You've tried many of the obvious already. Even with C25 off, the
stage has significant gain, and probably will not self oscillate
under the worst of conditions. I'll run a computer model and see
how much gain is left with C25 missing. That may give us a clue
where to go looking next.
72 and sorry for the delay in answering and not being more helpful.
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> I just took a series of pictures of each of the
> coils in mine, so
> that you can see how I wound them. I'll send those
> to you if
> you can receive binary attachments. The are all
> smallish
> .jpg files, showing each of the coils.
>
That should work well here.
> Also, the schematics have each transformer marked
> with a black
> dot as the beginning of the winding. Don't know if
> you saw
> that, or recognized it for what it is.
>
I saw that, but was still confused by this as some
coils use the opposite end of the winding for ground
(ex: T7, 8). I am used to the convention of calling
this the "cold or ground" end of the winding for those
windings that do indeed go to ground (ex: T11). Does
the black dot signify that BOTH windings start at that
end?
> Finally, did you align the transmit section using
> the Alignment
> generator? If not, you should try that. The way
> that is done
> is to short out the local oscillator by grounding
> the base of
> transistor Q1.
I did this.
> That keeps the 43 MHz signal from
> contaminating
> the process.
> Next, hook the alignment generator to
> the top
> of resistor R28, a 240 ohm on the output of the Tx
> SBM.
Do you mean top of R29? That's where I fed the
generator.
> Feeding
> the signal there is equivalent to the level that
> should be present
> when the rig is being driven with 2 watts from an
> external source.
> Next, ground the collector of Q4 to cause Q5 to
> supply TxVcc to the
> transmit sections.
Did this also, but kept blowing the transverter's
fuse.
> Peak each of the stages several
> times for max
> output beginning with T7. There is some interaction
> among the
> various stages, so it takes a couple of passes
> through the rig
> to get everything peaked. Do the initial passes
> with Pot1
> at it's lowest setting, so that the finals are not
> receiving drive.
What I ended up doing was disabling the LO as above,
removing T6 #4 and 5 windings to isolate the driving
rig (yet still supplying a load for it), injected the
generator at the top of R29, and fooled the
transverter into keying with the driving rig to
prevent any more blown fuses! No joy with this
arrangement. That is, no measurable output, but each
trimmer does seem to peak the signal as monitored on a
nearby 6M rig. This is where I wish to question my
tranformer windings.
>
> After getting the early stages peaked, you can start
> advancing
> Pot1 and repeaking TC8, as there is interaction as
> the driver gets
> power, and starts driving the finals. Of course,
> the output needs
> to be terminated with 50 ohms so that you don't blow
> the final
> transistors. I also added a 33 volt Zener to the
> collectors to
> ground of the finals to protect them. Got tired of
> replacing them
> after taking them out a few times with high SWR when
> the antenna
> tuner was trying to find a match.
Yup, used a wattmeter with 50ohm load. That clicking
sound in the headphones is all too familiar from my
2N2/40s!
>
> As for changes, I've not made any to my rig except
> to use a
> MPHS10 in place of a PN2222 for Q3. It's a bit
> hotter with
> that transistor. If you do that, change R12 to
> 4.7K, and
> change C11 to 330pF. Those are optimal values for
> getting
> the most out of the MPHS10.
>
> Let me know about the pictures, and I'll send you
> another
> email with those attached. Should be less than 1/2
> meg for
> all of the pictures.
I think these may help me immeasureably. I tried
looking at the transformers on the 2N2/6 page, but
wasn't able to see the windings clearly enough.
Thanks again for any help!
72
Howard K2UD
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at
http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at
http://auctions.yahoo.comAt 03:55 PM 12/17/01 +0000, Ken wrote:
>Hi Jim,
>Others in Group,
>
>One other thing I noticed is the signal I hear on the receiver
>seems to be wavering a bit, even back to the input to the +9DBM mixer
>amp. I thought it was the VFO but when I listen to it on the rcvr it
>seems solid.
Maybe you have the feedback winding on the RF amplifier wrong,
and that stage is oscillating. That could upset the whole
downstream circuitry and make it act flaky.
> I can see some changes in trace brightness with the
>signal frequency change at the input of the +9dm mixer amp at the
>mixer output transformer.
The above is confusing to me. There isn't a transformer in
the output of the +9bB mixer amp, only a 100uH molded choke.
I'm not sure what you are looking at.
> When I remove the +9dbm mixer the wavering
>goes away while listening to the signal on the mixer output
>transformer.
T4 is the transformer to which you are connected? If so, that
would suggest indeed that Q5 is oscillating. Try replacing
L6 with something a 2.7K resistor, and see what that does.
You'll still have decent gain, and no chance of the stage
oscillating.
> Could the problem be in the +9dbm mixer, it taking off on
>an oscilation or something?
Yes, always a possibility with any stage having reasonable gain.
>Strange if the problem is with the +9db
>mixer amp as I can hear the signal on the output of the xtal filter.
>Perhaps I should look at the gain of the +9db mixer amp to see if it's
>really performing?
I'd sure be interested in what you see on the collector of Q5.
Without any signal into the rig, and the VFO disconnected from
the DBM, you should only see a tiny bit of noise, and no periodic
signals. If it is oscillating, there will be a rather large signal
(volts) on the collector. Also, check Q4 with the VFO disconnected from
the DBM. It should not be oscillating either.
>Until I get some suggestions, thanks in advance.
You bet. Hope we're helping some......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 04:48 PM 12/17/01 -0500, you wrote:
>At 12:07 AM 12/17/01 +0000, Ken, KD2KW wrote:
>
> >Hi Jim,
> >
> >I'm now working the IF and got to the end of the +40db amp in the IF.
> >Went to check the signal and nothing while it's there at the input to
> >the mixer amp. Checked through the variable xtal filter and hear it
> >up
> >to the 180pf cap and even past T7 on the secondary. Soo, I do some
> >checking, voltages first. Using the @N@/40+ diagram (measurements to
> >ground), VCC 11.5 (source is a bit low but shouldn't be an issue),
> >Q6e=.152,b=.8,c=7.8; Q7e=6.9,b=7.8,c=11.0.
>
>Ken.....these voltages look nominally OK, but the collector voltage
>on Q6 is a bit too high. I'd like to see more like 5.5 to 6 volts,
>which gives a bit more headway for Q7. It might be that Q6 is short
>on gain, or maybe just tolerances on the resistors that you used.
>Were not getting quite enough current through Q6, and that's why
>it's collector voltage is high. A couple of ideas to try. 1)
>change R23 down to a 49K
OOOps....that was supposed to be 39K
> to up the base bias a tad. That should
>get more current flowing, and lower the collector voltage a bit.
>2) Change R24, the collector resistor on Q6 to 1.1K or 1.2K.
>That should do the same thing using a different approach.
>
>Also, check that T8 is wound correctly, installed correctly, and
>doesn't have a shorted turn etc.
>
> >THis would seem to
> >indicate
> >that both transistors are biased as the base to emitter junction is
> >.6-.7V. I started with C25 as the one from the old drawing (860pf I
> >believe) and saw your note about too much gain so I changed it to
> >660pf, nodifference. On the scope I see a signal that looks like an
> >overloaded amp. flat on the bottom for most of the cycle and a spike
> >around the rate of the input signal. Not sure how to discribe it. If
> >I
> >had a picture I'm sure it would be better. Anyway, I take C25
> >completly off and the signal goes away. I do get a faint signal from
> >the output at C26 when C25 is disconnected. I thought about changing
> >the phasing of T8 but no change. Not sure where to go from here. Any
> >ideas?
>
>You've tried many of the obvious already. Even with C25 off, the
>stage has significant gain, and probably will not self oscillate
>under the worst of conditions. I'll run a computer model and see
>how much gain is left with C25 missing. That may give us a clue
>where to go looking next.
>
>72 and sorry for the delay in answering and not being more helpful.
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Jim,
Just got in and am getting the meal call but thought I would let
you know that you've given me some ideas to work tonight after we
get settled in. I'll give you results either late tonight or
sometime tomorrow.
Thanks for being there. The modeling software really does help when
applied this way.
75,
Ken KD2KW
Spring, Texas
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 04:48 PM 12/17/01 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >At 12:07 AM 12/17/01 +0000, Ken, KD2KW wrote:
> >
> > >Hi Jim,
> > >
> > >I'm now working the IF and got to the end of the +40db amp in the
IF.
> > >Went to check the signal and nothing while it's there at the
input to
> > >the mixer amp. Checked through the variable xtal filter and hear
it
> > >up
> > >to the 180pf cap and even past T7 on the secondary. Soo, I do
some
> > >checking, voltages first. Using the @N@/40+ diagram (measurements
to
> > >ground), VCC 11.5 (source is a bit low but shouldn't be an
issue),
> > >Q6e=.152,b=.8,c=7.8; Q7e=6.9,b=7.8,c=11.0.
> >
> >Ken.....these voltages look nominally OK, but the collector voltage
> >on Q6 is a bit too high. I'd like to see more like 5.5 to 6 volts,
> >which gives a bit more headway for Q7. It might be that Q6 is
short
> >on gain, or maybe just tolerances on the resistors that you used.
> >Were not getting quite enough current through Q6, and that's why
> >it's collector voltage is high. A couple of ideas to try. 1)
> >change R23 down to a 49K
>
> OOOps....that was supposed to be 39K
>
> > to up the base bias a tad. That should
> >get more current flowing, and lower the collector voltage a bit.
> >2) Change R24, the collector resistor on Q6 to 1.1K or 1.2K.
> >That should do the same thing using a different approach.
> >
> >Also, check that T8 is wound correctly, installed correctly, and
> >doesn't have a shorted turn etc.
> >
> > >THis would seem to
> > >indicate
> > >that both transistors are biased as the base to emitter junction
is
> > >.6-.7V. I started with C25 as the one from the old drawing (860pf
I
> > >believe) and saw your note about too much gain so I changed it to
> > >660pf, nodifference. On the scope I see a signal that looks like
an
> > >overloaded amp. flat on the bottom for most of the cycle and a
spike
> > >around the rate of the input signal. Not sure how to discribe it.
If
> > >I
> > >had a picture I'm sure it would be better. Anyway, I take C25
> > >completly off and the signal goes away. I do get a faint signal
from
> > >the output at C26 when C25 is disconnected. I thought about
changing
> > >the phasing of T8 but no change. Not sure where to go from here.
Any
> > >ideas?
> >
> >You've tried many of the obvious already. Even with C25 off, the
> >stage has significant gain, and probably will not self oscillate
> >under the worst of conditions. I'll run a computer model and see
> >how much gain is left with C25 missing. That may give us a clue
> >where to go looking next.
> >
> >72 and sorry for the delay in answering and not being more helpful.
> >
> >Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 11:26 PM 12/17/01 +0000, Ken, KD2KW wrote:
>Hi Jim,
Hi Ken,
>Just got in and am getting the meal call but thought I would let
>you know that you've given me some ideas to work tonight after we
>get settled in. I'll give you results either late tonight or
>sometime tomorrow.
>
>Thanks for being there. The modeling software really does help when
>applied this way.
I have the EWB modelling results for you.
Here is what I found.
Q6 Q7 Vcc = 13.8 volts
e = 0.343 e = 5.320
b = 1.040 b = 6.016
c = 6.016 c = 13.3 Gain = 38.9 dB
with C25 connected
Gain = 19.1 dB
with C25 removed
Gain compression occurs with an input signal of 40 mv p-p.
Q6 Q7 Vcc = 12 volts
e = 0.241 e = 5.731
b = 0.933 b = 6.430
c = 6.430 c = 11.564 Gain = 37.6 dB
with C25 connected
Gain = 17.8 dB
with C25 removed
If you want more dynamic range with 13.8 volts for Vcc, emitter
resistor R25 can be changed to 330 ohms. This will allow 80
mv p-p on the input before gain compression. Of course, the
second stage of the amplifier draws much more standing current,
but not more than about 15 milliamperes, so Q7 isn't in any
danger of emitting smoke. The same should be true if a 12 volt
supply is used, the gain compression point should rise by a
significant amount.
Hope some of this helps you and/or others. Modelling does have
its place in this stuff. Besides, it's fun to do and I always
learn something.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
While messing around measuring various things, my rig seems to have
gone deaf.
Using the 'ol heath RF generator again, everything looks normal up to
the DBM. On one side of the diodes I see a small sine wave and on the
other side I see a much larger one. In front of the mixer amp I see
what looks like the mix of two signals (assuming the VFO and incoming
RF) and it's amplified quite a bit and passes through C35 to the base
of the first crystal. It looks to me like I comletely lose all RF in
the crystal filter, for at the other end it is basically a flat-line
on the scope again.
Does this sound OK? If so, any thoughts or strategies?
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
|
1279|1260|2001-12-18 08:00:23|kd2kw|Re: IF Amp +40db Problem?|Hi Jim,
All,
Well last night wasn't too productive. I backtracked to the front end
due to no signal at the mixer. Floundered around a lot and am not sure
of the results but I did find the wavering signal. The source (SMK-1)
signal was moving around, I guess due to the low battery voltage
(using a 9 volt battery that was around 6 volts at this point).
Anyway, I didn't get a signal at the DB mixer so I messed around on
the front end tuning the input filter again for maximum smoke on the
scope etc but nothing that I could sync on at the output of the DB
mixer. Checked the diodes, OK, transformers, OK. I finally got a
signal if I hooked the SMK-1 directly to the input of the filter but
nothing if through a 1K resister. At any rate I didn't get to my
objective of testing the changes you gave Jim. It came to time to hit
the sack for an early rise for work so I had to put the project aside
not knowing for sure where the problem is or even if there is a
problem. Must get my head into this and follow through from the
beginning.
73,
Ken
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 03:55 PM 12/17/01 +0000, Ken wrote:
>
> >Hi Jim,
> >Others in Group,
> >
> >One other thing I noticed is the signal I hear on the receiver
> >seems to be wavering a bit, even back to the input to the +9DBM
mixer
> >amp. I thought it was the VFO but when I listen to it on the rcvr
it
> >seems solid.
>
> Maybe you have the feedback winding on the RF amplifier wrong,
> and that stage is oscillating. That could upset the whole
> downstream circuitry and make it act flaky.
>
> > I can see some changes in trace brightness with the
> >signal frequency change at the input of the +9dm mixer amp at the
> >mixer output transformer.
>
> The above is confusing to me. There isn't a transformer in
> the output of the +9bB mixer amp, only a 100uH molded choke.
> I'm not sure what you are looking at.
>
> > When I remove the +9dbm mixer the wavering
> >goes away while listening to the signal on the mixer output
> >transformer.
>
> T4 is the transformer to which you are connected? If so, that
> would suggest indeed that Q5 is oscillating. Try replacing
> L6 with something a 2.7K resistor, and see what that does.
> You'll still have decent gain, and no chance of the stage
> oscillating.
>
> > Could the problem be in the +9dbm mixer, it taking off on
> >an oscilation or something?
>
> Yes, always a possibility with any stage having reasonable gain.
>
> >Strange if the problem is with the +9db
> >mixer amp as I can hear the signal on the output of the xtal
filter.
> >Perhaps I should look at the gain of the +9db mixer amp to see if
it's
> >really performing?
>
> I'd sure be interested in what you see on the collector of Q5.
> Without any signal into the rig, and the VFO disconnected from
> the DBM, you should only see a tiny bit of noise, and no periodic
> signals. If it is oscillating, there will be a rather large signal
> (volts) on the collector. Also, check Q4 with the VFO disconnected
from
> the DBM. It should not be oscillating either.
>
>
> >Until I get some suggestions, thanks in advance.
>
> You bet. Hope we're helping some......
>
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Can any of you folks with completed 2N22-40s suggest some options for cases?
My board measures about 5" deep and 7" wide, but I can't seem to find a
really nice case for it.
This assumes, of course, that I get it finished and working...
73 de Lee, km4yy
As soon as men decide that all means are permitted to fight an evil,
then their good becomes indistinguishable from the evil that they set
out to destroy.
--Christopher Dawson, The Judgment of Nations, 1942
|
1281|1278|2001-12-18 13:03:57|Tom Dufresne|Re: Rig gone deaf|Lee:
Radio Shack makes a nice case that fits like a champ! See mine on the
Yahoogroups.com page.....
I think its about 12 bucks....
Not a bad deal, and really looks good too, IMHO.
KC0GXX
Tom
>From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Rig gone deaf
>Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:27:12 -0500
>
>Can any of you folks with completed 2N22-40s suggest some options for
>cases?
>My board measures about 5" deep and 7" wide, but I can't seem to find a
>really nice case for it.
>This assumes, of course, that I get it finished and working...
>73 de Lee, km4yy
>
>As soon as men decide that all means are permitted to fight an evil,
>then their good becomes indistinguishable from the evil that they set
>out to destroy.
> --Christopher Dawson, The Judgment of Nations, 1942
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.comAt 12:27 PM 12/18/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Can any of you folks with completed 2N22-40s suggest some options for cases?
>My board measures about 5" deep and 7" wide, but I can't seem to find a
>really nice case for it.
>This assumes, of course, that I get it finished and working...
>73 de Lee, km4yy
Lee,
Mine is in a TenTec TP-47. Just the right size.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
B. G. Micro
http://www.bgmicro.com/ had a nice plastic case for about 8 bux. Perfect size for a 5D X 7W.
There's a photo of my rig in that case at
http://www.qsl.net/w6ags I am sure ther are many other options out there.
72 es seasons greetings
Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> Can any of you folks with completed 2N22-40s suggest some options
for cases?
> My board measures about 5" deep and 7" wide, but I can't seem to
find a
> really nice case for it.
> This assumes, of course, that I get it finished and working...
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
>
> As soon as men decide that all means are permitted to fight an evil,
> then their good becomes indistinguishable from the evil that they
set
> out to destroy.
> --Christopher Dawson, The Judgment of Nations, 1942
At 03:55 AM 12/18/01 +0000, John, N1QO wrote:
>While messing around measuring various things, my rig seems to have
>gone deaf.
That can sometimes be dangerous John........
>Using the 'ol heath RF generator again, everything looks normal up to
>the DBM. On one side of the diodes I see a small sine wave and on the
>other side I see a much larger one. In front of the mixer amp I see
>what looks like the mix of two signals (assuming the VFO and incoming
>RF) and it's amplified quite a bit and passes through C35 to the base
>of the first crystal. It looks to me like I comletely lose all RF in
>the crystal filter, for at the other end it is basically a flat-line
>on the scope again.
I guess there is a possibility that you caused either or both
of the varicap diodes to end their life, and they are shorted
to ground. If that's true, that would kill all of the signal
coming through the filter big time. You can lift the ground
end of each of those varicaps, and see if it comes back to
life. I hope it is something else, but at a loss at the moment
to suggest anything else.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....make sure you don't have any shorts in that area, or cold
solder joints.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I agree with Jim, the TP-47 is a perfect for the 5x7
board. It leaves room for the RIT, connectors,
10-turn pot and drive.
I primed and painted mine Krylon "Dove Gray," and
covered the top with black contact paper. Looks just
like Jim's 2nd rig.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- Lee Mairs <
lmairs@cox.rr.com> wrote:
> Can any of you folks with completed 2N22-40s suggest
> some options for cases?
> My board measures about 5" deep and 7" wide, but I
> can't seem to find a
> really nice case for it.
> This assumes, of course, that I get it finished and
> working...
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
>
> As soon as men decide that all means are permitted
> to fight an evil,
> then their good becomes indistinguishable from the
> evil that they set
> out to destroy.
> --Christopher Dawson, The Judgment of Nations,
> 1942
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at
http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at
http://auctions.yahoo.comLee,
Although I like the plastic case housing my 2n2-40, a metal case, such
as the ones suggested by a couple of other builders, intrinsically
solves a couple of problems. That volume control pot really needs to
be mounted on ground. Not insurmountable, but an issue nonetheless.
Also, metal dissipates heat better although the rig does not generate
an excessive amount of heat.
In any event, have fun and let us see the end result.
72
Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> Can any of you folks with completed 2N22-40s suggest some options
for cases?
> My board measures about 5" deep and 7" wide, but I can't seem to
find a
> really nice case for it.
> This assumes, of course, that I get it finished and working...
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
>
> As soon as men decide that all means are permitted to fight an evil,
> then their good becomes indistinguishable from the evil that they
set
> out to destroy.
> --Christopher Dawson, The Judgment of Nations, 1942
Hi gang,
Yes I'm still trying to get the first three sections of my 2N2-40
working properly. I think I'm close. It's taking longer than I
would like, but hopefully I'm learning a few things!
I did find a couple problems/mistakes. I think I messed up the
connections of T5. Using the same wire for all three I think I
messed it up. I rewound it and think it's ok now. I found a shorted
diode in the DBM and replaced it. Went "easy" on the soldering iron.
Now I "think" it's hearing ok but I'm not sure I'm hearing the right
freq range. My VFO checks out. I hear the carrier at 2.085 up to
about 2.175. Set it at 2.135.... set the general receiver for 4.915,
key up the K1 set at 7.050 and find the carrier on my general
receiver hooked up to the 2N2-40 via coax. Am able to "peak" the
signal with TC1, TC2 and TC9. Then I adjust Pot 5 and can hear
signals, but the seem to all be foreign broadcast or something. No
CW. At about the center of Pot 5's range, could tune the station in
to where I could pretty much understand it. So I decided to look
around with the general receiver to figure out what I was listening
to. I am pretty sure I found it, and it is a broadcast station at
4.915 (approx).
What does this mean if it is what I'm hearing? Any Ideas would be
appreciated. I really want to move on.
Thank You!
Tom Little
N0DSP
(trying to get ready for the "2N2 Rendezvous")
|
1288|1278|2001-12-18 20:12:58|Lee Mairs|Re: Rig gone deaf|Anybody know how to get to the Ten-Tec website for enclosures? The regular
www.tentec.com suggests that it is not possible to order enclosures over the
internet, but I'm almost positive that I saw something about a special deal
whereby if you bought one kit you could order a bunch more of enclosures at
a significant discount.
Lee, KM4YY
Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you recognize a mistake
when you make it again.
--F. P. Jones
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Rig gone deaf
> At 12:27 PM 12/18/01 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Can any of you folks with completed 2N22-40s suggest some options for
cases?
> >My board measures about 5" deep and 7" wide, but I can't seem to find a
> >really nice case for it.
> >This assumes, of course, that I get it finished and working...
> >73 de Lee, km4yy
>
> Lee,
>
> Mine is in a TenTec TP-47. Just the right size.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
try this URl, at bottom of the page is the enclosur deal..
http://www.tentec.com/tkit.htm#model1056 At 08:11 PM 12/18/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Anybody know how to get to the Ten-Tec website for enclosures? The regular
>www.tentec.com suggests that it is not possible to order enclosures over the
>internet, but I'm almost positive that I saw something about a special deal
>whereby if you bought one kit you could order a bunch more of enclosures at
>a significant discount.
>Lee, KM4YY
>
>Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you recognize a mistake
>when you make it again.
> --F. P. Jones
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
>To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 1:31 PM
>Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Rig gone deaf
>
>
> > At 12:27 PM 12/18/01 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> > >Can any of you folks with completed 2N22-40s suggest some options for
>cases?
> > >My board measures about 5" deep and 7" wide, but I can't seem to find a
> > >really nice case for it.
> > >This assumes, of course, that I get it finished and working...
> > >73 de Lee, km4yy
> >
> > Lee,
> >
> > Mine is in a TenTec TP-47. Just the right size.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Been quiet for a few days, that's a good sign because I've had no
problems.
Cured the rx deafness by re-doing the input filter toroids.
Receiver is now complete, it receives :-)
but the audio is very low :-(
Found C30 (new schematic) was wrong way round and have replaced it.
Could this have damaged anything else ?
Any ideas ?
73 Steve G4GXL
|
1292|1291|2001-12-20 08:53:38|Wes Clopton|Re: Nearly there, but problem with audio amp|Ah Ha..Ok I see we didnt break group comm...
C30 is a 470mfd electrolytic, did it smoke.
If not does it still charge . Probably good.
Now my question ...What is the value of Ct?
Wes
At 01:20 PM 12/20/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Been quiet for a few days, that's a good sign because I've had no
>problems.
>
>Cured the rx deafness by re-doing the input filter toroids.
>
>Receiver is now complete, it receives :-)
>but the audio is very low :-(
>
>Found C30 (new schematic) was wrong way round and have replaced it.
>Could this have damaged anything else ?
>
>Any ideas ?
>
>73 Steve G4GXL
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hi Wes
> C30 is a 470mfd electrolytic, did it smoke.
No
> If not does it still charge . Probably good.
Yes, I think it is but could it have damaged anything else ?
> Now my question ...What is the value of Ct?
0.1, it's the nearest I've got to the suggested starting point of .082
Can I use a pair of twisted wires ?
In fact, should I. I seem to remember a trick capacitor being
mentioned way back.
73 Steve G4GXL
A gimmick capacitor (twisted wires)was talked about in the VFO
section for a very small amount of capacitance.....5pf ie
but there was a mention of Ct later and how to determine
is value somewhere...It will be in the ufd I think...
OH did the transistor Q12 blow when C30 was reversed...
At 02:04 PM 12/20/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi Wes
>
> > C30 is a 470mfd electrolytic, did it smoke.
>No
>
> > If not does it still charge . Probably good.
>Yes, I think it is but could it have damaged anything else ?
>
> > Now my question ...What is the value of Ct?
>0.1, it's the nearest I've got to the suggested starting point of .082
>Can I use a pair of twisted wires ?
>In fact, should I. I seem to remember a trick capacitor being
>mentioned way back.
>
>73 Steve G4GXL
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Just posted some photos of the (nearly) completed receiver.
Sorry about the quality. I used an old Olympus C-400L, it was state-
of-the-art when I bought it (1994-5?), but needs replacing now.
Front-end was done on a bad day, so I'm not showing that. I will redo
it sometime.
No excuse for rest :-)
Will remove photos when space starts to get tight.
73 Steve G4GXL
|
1296|1291|2001-12-20 09:52:58|g4gxl|Re: Nearly there, but problem with audio amp|> OH did the transistor Q12 blow when C30 was reversed...
Just replaced it, no difference. Layout error in QRPp was noted, so
everthing *looks* OK.
Anyway, I'm now finished for today. Hope to get tx done tomorrow,
otherwise I don't know if I'll have any free time (for building)
until New Year.
Thanks for help Wes,
73 Steve G4GXL
Steve -
The twisted wire trick was only good for a few pf if I remember correctly.
Lee, km4yy
----- Original Message -----
From: "g4gxl" <g4gxl@btinternet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 9:04 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Nearly there, but problem with audio amp
> Hi Wes
>
> > C30 is a 470mfd electrolytic, did it smoke.
> No
>
> > If not does it still charge . Probably good.
> Yes, I think it is but could it have damaged anything else ?
>
> > Now my question ...What is the value of Ct?
> 0.1, it's the nearest I've got to the suggested starting point of .082
> Can I use a pair of twisted wires ?
> In fact, should I. I seem to remember a trick capacitor being
> mentioned way back.
>
> 73 Steve G4GXL
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Steve, G4GXL noted a layout error in the audio amp in QRPp. I am
about to build the audio amp and what is the error in QRPp??
D.K. Philbin KD6TK
|
1299|1291|2001-12-20 11:21:18|Wes Clopton|Re: Nearly there, but problem with audio amp|I got this from Jims k8iqy page
Page 31 - Transistor Q12 is not drawn in the correct orientation, nor are
the "c" and "e" labels correct. It should be in the same orientation as
Q13, with the base lead going to the original pad, e.g. to the right as
shown in the illustration. The collector is soldered to the pad currently
labelled as the "e" designation, and the emitter is soldered to the pad
currently labelled as the "c" designation. The amplifier will not work with
the transistor installed as illustrated. The electrolytic capacitor
connecting to the pad containing R37, R38 and the emitter of Q12 is not
C38, but C40. Capacitor C38 is already shown connected between the pad
containing the center terminal of the volume control, and the pad connected
to the base of transistor Q11.
refering to the na5n book
At 03:59 PM 12/20/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Steve, G4GXL noted a layout error in the audio amp in QRPp. I am
>about to build the audio amp and what is the error in QRPp??
>
>D.K. Philbin KD6TK
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Steve,
My rig has gone deaf twice and in both cases the problem was in the
product detector. The first time, I hadn't yet added the 3rd and 4th
diodes to the prod det output (the original circuit had only 2 diodes)
but had done all other mods including switching the prod det
inputs/outputs. The 2nd time was probably due to one of the prod det
secondary leads shorting to ground. You may want to just take a look.
Hope this helps es off to see your photos.
72
Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "g4gxl" wrote:
> Been quiet for a few days, that's a good sign because I've had no
> problems.
>
> Cured the rx deafness by re-doing the input filter toroids.
>
> Receiver is now complete, it receives :-)
> but the audio is very low :-(
>
> Found C30 (new schematic) was wrong way round and have replaced it.
> Could this have damaged anything else ?
>
> Any ideas ?
>
> 73 Steve G4GXL
At 11:50 PM 12/18/01 +0000, Tom Little, N0DSP wrote:
>Hi gang,
>
>Yes I'm still trying to get the first three sections of my 2N2-40
>working properly. I think I'm close. It's taking longer than I
>would like, but hopefully I'm learning a few things!
>
>I did find a couple problems/mistakes. I think I messed up the
>connections of T5.
That's T5 in the old schematics, and T4 in the new I think
Tom is referencing.
> Using the same wire for all three I think I
>messed it up. I rewound it and think it's ok now. I found a shorted
>diode in the DBM and replaced it. Went "easy" on the soldering iron.
Having the DBM working properly is paramount to getting the
rig working correctly.
>Now I "think" it's hearing ok but I'm not sure I'm hearing the right
>freq range. My VFO checks out. I hear the carrier at 2.085 up to
>about 2.175.
That's quite good. A bit shy at the top end of the band
by 10 KHz, but that can easily be fixed later on.
> Set it at 2.135.... set the general receiver for 4.915,
>key up the K1 set at 7.050 and find the carrier on my general
>receiver hooked up to the 2N2-40 via coax.
Did you tune the 2N2/40 VFO or retune the attached receiver?
If the latter, what frequency was then displayed?
> Am able to "peak" the
>signal with TC1, TC2 and TC9.
Another very good sign!
> Then I adjust Pot 5 and can hear
>signals, but the seem to all be foreign broadcast or something. No
>CW.
Not so good. What time of day or night were you doing
this work?
> At about the center of Pot 5's range, could tune the station in
>to where I could pretty much understand it. So I decided to look
>around with the general receiver to figure out what I was listening
>to. I am pretty sure I found it, and it is a broadcast station at
>4.915 (approx).
That could be. I've not done a lot of looking for signals at
the IF frequency, but I'm sure there are some there. With
the connection made using coax between the 2N2/40 and the
second receiver, I'm a bit surprised that you are hearing it
very strongly. And not hearing any 40 meter CW stations isn't
good, unless it was mid-day and not many station on. Are
you sure the RF Amplifier isn't oscillating? Seems to me someone
else on the list was hearing a bunch of signals, and it was due
to the RF Amp oscillating, and supplying another mixing signal.
>What does this mean if it is what I'm hearing?
Not sure, but you should have been able to hear the K1 without
any problems. Even with it on a dummy load.
> Any Ideas would be
>appreciated. I really want to move on.
Understood. Make sure the RF Amp isn't running as an oscillator.
If nothing else, reverse the emitter 1 turn coil, and see if the
rig performs differently if you don't have any test equipment.
72 and keep us posted.
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 01:20 PM 12/20/01 +0000, Steve, G4GXL wrote:
>Been quiet for a few days, that's a good sign because I've had no
>problems.
>
>Cured the rx deafness by re-doing the input filter toroids.
Good to hear that you found a problem there and fixed it.
Way to go........
>Receiver is now complete, it receives :-)
>but the audio is very low :-(
May be that the Rx LO isn't on the correct frequency to get the
correct audio level out of the Product Detector. Look up the
ditty I wrote up a few weeks ago about how to correctly align
the receiver. That may help quite a bit.
There is very little audio hiss with the stock audio stages,
but plenty of signal. If it is the lack of hiss that has
you thinking it's not enough audio, that may be a bit misleading.
>Found C30 (new schematic) was wrong way round and have replaced it.
>Could this have damaged anything else ?
No, except the capacitor maybe, but probably not. If it will take
a charge, it is OK. None of the rest of the circuitry was damaged
by that mistake. Make sure that Q11 and Q12 are installed correctly.
It's easy to put them in facing each other, and that actually reverses
the connections to Q12 i.e. emitter has the collector circuitry, and
vice versa. It won't work at all well that way. How do your
voltages compare to those on the new schematics in that area?
>Any ideas ?
Plenty......see above! :-)
72 and keep us posted,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 08:52 AM 12/20/01 -0500, Wes wrote:
>-snip-
>
>Now my question ...What is the value of Ct?
Ct in the original was a 0.082uF mylar capacitor, to resonate
the inductance of the primary of T10. If you don't have that
value, 0.1uF ought to work quite well. Since everyone is using
a different transformer in their audio amp, the primary inductance
is most likely different than mine. The amplifier will work
fine without any capacitor, but will sound a bit more hissy,
since the higher frequencies aren't been attenuated.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 02:04 PM 12/20/01 +0000, Steve, G4GXL wrote:
>-snip-
>0.1, it's the nearest I've got to the suggested starting point of .082
>Can I use a pair of twisted wires ?
That's 0.082uF Steve, not 0.082pF. It's gonna take several
hundred feet of wire to get that much capacitance! :-)
>In fact, should I. I seem to remember a trick capacitor being
>mentioned way back.
That was probably in parallel with C7 as a substitute for TC3
to coaxing the VFO into providing a tad bit more span.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 03:59 PM 12/20/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Steve, G4GXL noted a layout error in the audio amp in QRPp. I am
>about to build the audio amp and what is the error in QRPp??
>
>D.K. Philbin KD6TK
DK,
The illustration on page 31 of QRPp shows Q12 installed facing
Q11. That isn't correct, as it reverses the emitter and
collector connections. The amp doesn't work very well with
that error.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Rummaging thru the junk box looking for 2n-20 resistors, I cam across a part
with 8 pins about 3/4"x1/2" marked anzac MD-108. Does anybody know what
this is and/or how I can get a data sheet for it.
73 de Lee
km4yy
A man's hatred is always concentrated upon that which makes him
conscious of his bad qualities.
--Carl Gustav Jung
|
1308|1307|2001-12-20 17:03:30|w6ags|Re: |Did a Google search on anzac MD-108. Looks like it is a broadcast band
balance mixer. See
http://www.broadcast.net/pipermail/radio-tech/1998-March/005266.html --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> Rummaging thru the junk box looking for 2n-20 resistors, I cam
across a part
> with 8 pins about 3/4"x1/2" marked anzac MD-108. Does anybody know
what
> this is and/or how I can get a data sheet for it.
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
> A man's hatred is always concentrated upon that which makes him
> conscious of his bad qualities.
> --Carl Gustav Jung
Lee,
Check this out on the MD-108.
http://www.cmo.ch/swissatv/ar5000.htm It is a DoubleBalancedMixer similar to the SBL-1, but
I think the pinout connections are different. It is good
for all the frequencies that we hams are interested in.
I hope I can find more info on it.
72,
Kaye, K8GZ
Hi Jim,
All,
Status report is due but not much to report.
Really not had much time to worh out the problme but did get a
couple hours in last night. Got back to the point where I'm working
on the +40DB IF Amp. I'm still able to get a strong signal at the
output of the xtal filter but the signal goes down hill in this
stage to finally nothing on the output T8 (new 2N2/40+ drawing).
I've modified the R25 to 330 ohms and get dc voltages clse to what
you gave me Jim but still not much on output of C26 with a rcvr
tunred to 4.915. I tried changing the phasing of the windings on T8
and one way I don't see the oscillation I mentioned before but there
seems to be some white noise on the rcvr. The other way there's
nothing on the rcvr but the osc is gone on the scope. When I change
C25 from 660 pf to 330 pf the period of the osc changes on the scope
so I'm thinking this is the amp in oscillation. I went through the
circuit again but finally had to put it away as time for bed to be
ready for work (early rise to beat traffic on a 37 mi drive into
Houston). I doubt I'll get back to the project until after Christmas
as time is taken with family things. It'll be exciting to find this
problem and be able to march on to the Product Detector. Mute circuit
and Audio. Then joy of hearing the signals as it's put to an antenna.
I want to thank you Jim for the ideas given thus far. I feel I'm close
but need the time to do more what if scenarios to find the problem.
75,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "kd2kw" wrote:
> Hi Jim,
> All,
>
> Well last night wasn't too productive. I backtracked to the front
end
> due to no signal at the mixer. Floundered around a lot and am not
sure
> of the results but I did find the wavering signal. The source
(SMK-1)
> signal was moving around, I guess due to the low battery voltage
> (using a 9 volt battery that was around 6 volts at this point).
> Anyway, I didn't get a signal at the DB mixer so I messed around on
> the front end tuning the input filter again for maximum smoke on the
> scope etc but nothing that I could sync on at the output of the DB
> mixer. Checked the diodes, OK, transformers, OK. I finally got a
> signal if I hooked the SMK-1 directly to the input of the filter but
> nothing if through a 1K resister. At any rate I didn't get to my
> objective of testing the changes you gave Jim. It came to time to
hit
> the sack for an early rise for work so I had to put the project
aside
> not knowing for sure where the problem is or even if there is a
> problem. Must get my head into this and follow through from the
> beginning.
>
> 73,
> Ken
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > At 03:55 PM 12/17/01 +0000, Ken wrote:
> >
> > >Hi Jim,
> > >Others in Group,
> > >
> > >One other thing I noticed is the signal I hear on the receiver
> > >seems to be wavering a bit, even back to the input to the +9DBM
> mixer
> > >amp. I thought it was the VFO but when I listen to it on the rcvr
> it
> > >seems solid.
> >
> > Maybe you have the feedback winding on the RF amplifier wrong,
> > and that stage is oscillating. That could upset the whole
> > downstream circuitry and make it act flaky.
> >
> > > I can see some changes in trace brightness with the
> > >signal frequency change at the input of the +9dm mixer amp at the
> > >mixer output transformer.
> >
> > The above is confusing to me. There isn't a transformer in
> > the output of the +9bB mixer amp, only a 100uH molded choke.
> > I'm not sure what you are looking at.
> >
> > > When I remove the +9dbm mixer the wavering
> > >goes away while listening to the signal on the mixer output
> > >transformer.
> >
> > T4 is the transformer to which you are connected? If so, that
> > would suggest indeed that Q5 is oscillating. Try replacing
> > L6 with something a 2.7K resistor, and see what that does.
> > You'll still have decent gain, and no chance of the stage
> > oscillating.
> >
> > > Could the problem be in the +9dbm mixer, it taking off on
> > >an oscilation or something?
> >
> > Yes, always a possibility with any stage having reasonable gain.
> >
> > >Strange if the problem is with the +9db
> > >mixer amp as I can hear the signal on the output of the xtal
> filter.
> > >Perhaps I should look at the gain of the +9db mixer amp to see if
> it's
> > >really performing?
> >
> > I'd sure be interested in what you see on the collector of Q5.
> > Without any signal into the rig, and the VFO disconnected from
> > the DBM, you should only see a tiny bit of noise, and no periodic
> > signals. If it is oscillating, there will be a rather large
signal
> > (volts) on the collector. Also, check Q4 with the VFO
disconnected
> from
> > the DBM. It should not be oscillating either.
> >
> >
> > >Until I get some suggestions, thanks in advance.
> >
> > You bet. Hope we're helping some......
> >
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hello again all!
Jim, thanks for your thoughts on my rig. Played with it a bit
tonight and will try to relay what I found. I don't know what it
means, but maybe it will make sense to you guys.
>> Set it at 2.135.... set the general receiver for 4.915,
>>key up the K1 set at 7.050 and find the carrier on my general
>>receiver hooked up to the 2N2-40 via coax.
>Did you tune the 2N2/40 VFO or retune the attached receiver?
>If the latter, what frequency was then displayed?
I guess I tuned the 2N2/40 Vfo the other night. Tonight I did the
above by finding 2.135 on the 2N2, switching the general receiver to
4.915.20, keyed the K1 set to 7.050 and was listening to the carrier
of the 2N2 on the receiver. Unkey the K1.... tune pot 5 on the 2n2.
Again hearing strong "broadcast" stations. Switch the receiver to AM
and tuned a station in using pot 5. It was a AM station, KNPP AM 660
from Little Rock, AZ. (found it on the general receiver) Also found
a station that was at 616 AM. At this point I figured, "well, the
guys will know what to do now!" Then I found some CW. But it
sounded very strange. It was right on, or in a AM station signal and
it was kind of echoing and faded out. But it was there for a while.
I tried to find it on 40 meters with the K1, but couldn't find it
before it faded away.
>>> Then I adjust Pot 5 and can hear
>>>signals, but the seem to all be foreign broadcast or something. No
>>>CW.
>Not so good. What time of day or night were you doing
>this work?
I have tried this day and night time. Tonight it was about 8PM Colo
time.
>>> At about the center of Pot 5's range, could tune the station in
>>>to where I could pretty much understand it. So I decided to look
>>>around with the general receiver to figure out what I was listening
>>>to. I am pretty sure I found it, and it is a broadcast station at
>>>4.915 (approx).
>That could be. I've not done a lot of looking for signals at
>the IF frequency, but I'm sure there are some there. With
>the connection made using coax between the 2N2/40 and the
>second receiver, I'm a bit surprised that you are hearing it
>very strongly. And not hearing any 40 meter CW stations isn't
>good, unless it was mid-day and not many station on.
On second thought, the broadcast stations were not on 4.915.... I was
still getting these signals via the 2N2 some way or the other.
>Make sure the RF Amp isn't running as an oscillator.
>If nothing else, reverse the emitter 1 turn coil, and see if the
>rig performs differently if you don't have any test equipment.
I've put it both ways. I think the way it is now is correct. It is
the only way I can actually get the signal to peak with the
trimmers. Phased the other way the trimmers almost seem to "tune"
instead of peak the carrier and I think I hear the sound of rushing
water that I have heard described by others.
I am going to try to search other messages, seems like I remember
someone else saying that they had built a great AM receiver. Funny
that I'm tuning the AM radio band.
Well, Thats my story and I'm sticking to it!! :)
>72 and keep us posted.
>Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Jim and everyone else! Learning is painful sometimes! :) But
still have a positive attitude and having fun.
Tom Little
N0DSP
I had sort of the same problem myself. I was getting SW BC signals
into it (no AM stations close by of any great power). I went ahead
and did Stage IV and when I got that hooked up and running.. no more
interference! I figured that it was stuff from the IF in the SW rig I
was using - Kenwood R2000 - mixing with something from the 2N2. Maybe
the added gain from Stage IV, not to mention the filter, blocked or
attenuated it out! Really don't know what was going on, but hey, it
works great now. My advice is to go ahead and do Stage IV and then
see if you have the same problems.
72 es good building
Dennis - WB0WAO
2N2/40 #?? (Waiting for the "birth certificate" to arrive!)
|
1313|1313|2001-12-21 11:12:02|kpgibson|On the air|I had my first 2N2/40 QSO last night. Earlier in the evening, I had
to learn the lesson about overdriving the finals and had to replace
them. Make sure you have the drive pot turned all the way down the
first time you key down using the PA and bring it up slowly to about
2 Watts output.
|
1314|1295|2001-12-21 11:28:31|John Wagner|Re: G4GXL - Photos Posted|Just looked at these Steve - great job! Really like the multi-colored
ribbon cable.
Good stuff - keep 'em coming!
73 de John, N1QO
g4gxl wrote:
>
> Just posted some photos of the (nearly) completed receiver.
>
> Sorry about the quality. I used an old Olympus C-400L, it was state-
> of-the-art when I bought it (1994-5?), but needs replacing now.
>
> Front-end was done on a bad day, so I'm not showing that. I will redo
> it sometime.
>
> No excuse for rest :-)
>
> Will remove photos when space starts to get tight.
>
> 73 Steve G4GXL
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comCongrats on the rig! Its a real pleaseure to operate. I haven't used any of
my other rigs since!
Tom
KC0GXX
>From: "kpgibson" <n0klv@arrl.net>
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2n2-40] On the air
>Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 16:11:42 -0000
>
>I had my first 2N2/40 QSO last night. Earlier in the evening, I had
>to learn the lesson about overdriving the finals and had to replace
>them. Make sure you have the drive pot turned all the way down the
>first time you key down using the PA and bring it up slowly to about
>2 Watts output.
>
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.comOutput volume is still low.
Have aligned LO.
Audio amp Voltages check out OK -
Vcc 14.38
Q11 c 13.9
Q12 c 13.9
Q9 Q10 e 3.1
Q9 b 3.78
Q10 b 3.78
Q9 c and Q11 b 5.3
Q10 c and Q12 b 5.3
In LO Q8 b=3.92 (?), e=3.98 (?), c=11.28 (are these OK ?)
I've replaced all transistors in audio amp, taken out Transformer
and checked windings (Primary 56ohm, 28ohm to centre, Sec~1ohm)
I've replaced the loudspeaker
I get *lots* of audio when listening to my 7.030 Xtal oscillator but
signals that are peaking S6/7 on the general coverage rx with 5 foot
whip are *quiet* on 2n2-40 with 15 wire aerial.
Maybe it's working, I was just expecting to be able to crank up the
volume to LOUD.
Output from IF Amp still OK when direct to general coverage rx (LO
disabled).
Could I have a problem in the Product Detector ? I checked
connections on T8 and T9. Haven't yet checked diodes in PD (they were
a good match originally).
On the good news side, in 20 minutes of listening (6.30pm local) with
my 15 foot wire I heard G, GM, F, DL, SM, I, IS, RA1, SM, S58, YO
and YL.
All were very clear, easy copy, just a bit quiet :-)
What next ?
73 Steve G4GXL
|
1317|1316|2001-12-21 14:34:32|Tom Dufresne|Re: Audio Amp. Help !|Steve:
Is your muting circuit engaged? I remember someone saying that the circuit
must be in "receive" mode, or it will severely "mute"...which ofcourse is
what is designed to do when transmitting!
Just an idea....
GL
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspxThanks Tom
> Is your muting circuit engaged?
No, I checked that as well. Sorry I forgot to mention it in the other
post.
I dunno, think I might as well get on with the TX, at least I will be
able to work stuff even if the RX is not perfect !
73 Steve G4GXL
I didn't exactly follow the "suggested layout" and I'm going to need to make
longer leads than I would prefer from C35/R4 to T8(1) and from Q7 collector
to T8(4)...will that be a problem?
Thanks,
Del, AD6WE
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.Hi guys,
I just finished wiring up the Mixer Amp, Xtal Filter, IF Amp, and Rx LO.
Had one capacitor (C36) short out after about 5 minutes of power on.
Burning smell made me very worried, and the current draw for the rig went
from 77 ma up to 340 ma. Took a while to find it, but after changing C36
the current draw went back down to 77 ma.
Did the basic voltage checks on Q5 through Q8. All are OK on Q5 through
Q7, but Q8 is very strange. Here are the readings I get, and expected values.
Q8 Collector: 9.68 11.1 expected (OK -- 12 v supply instead of 13.9v)
Base: 3.98 4.4 expected (OK??)
Emitter: 5.42(!!) 3.7 expected <<<<<<<<<< What's up here?
Note that is that it is oscillating fine! 4914.952 KHz, 1v p-p
How can this be? It is a NPN transistor (2N2222) so how can the emitter be higher
than the base? I would expect a .7v drop from base to emitter, as Jim's figures show.
Instead it is 1.4v HIGHER.
Further note that the junction of R15, R16 and C34 measures 1.07 v.
I would say Q8 is BAD, but it is oscillating fine.
Should I proceed? Or stop and start changing components?
Thanks,
72,
Craig, AAØZZ
|
1321|1320|2001-12-21 17:41:14|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Rx LO mystery|At 04:02 PM 12/21/01 -0600, Craig, AAØZZ wrote:
>Hi guys,
>
>I just finished wiring up the Mixer Amp, Xtal Filter, IF Amp, and Rx LO.
>Had one capacitor (C36) short out after about 5 minutes of power on.
>Burning smell made me very worried, and the current draw for the rig went
>from 77 ma up to 340 ma. Took a while to find it, but after changing C36
>the current draw went back down to 77 ma.
Interesting. I've never had a ceramic cap do that. I guess there
is always a new experience just around the corner.
>Did the basic voltage checks on Q5 through Q8. All are OK on Q5 through
>Q7, but Q8 is very strange. Here are the readings I get, and expected values.
>
> Q8 Collector: 9.68 11.1 expected (OK -- 12 v supply
> instead of 13.9v)
> Base: 3.98 4.4 expected (OK??)
> Emitter: 5.42(!!) 3.7 expected <<<<<<<<<< What's up
> here?
>
>Note that is that it is oscillating fine! 4914.952 KHz, 1v p-p
>
>How can this be? It is a NPN transistor (2N2222) so how can the emitter
>be higher
>than the base?
Because it is oscillating. You'll get those kinds of reading always
when measuring an oscillator that is oscillating. The values that
I show on the schematic are without the crystal in place. I thought
I put a note to that effect on the Yahoo reflector, but maybe not.
> I would expect a .7v drop from base to emitter, as Jim's figures show.
>Instead it is 1.4v HIGHER.
Lift one end of the crystal and you'll probably be right on the money.
>Further note that the junction of R15, R16 and C34 measures 1.07 v.
Good....look like you'll have plenty of drive for the Product Detector.
>I would say Q8 is BAD, but it is oscillating fine.
No, I'd say Q8 is doing just exactly what it ought to be doing.
Don't change it! If you do, you'll have the same thing with
the new transistor.
>Should I proceed? Or stop and start changing components?
Continue building. Sounds like everything is working fine.
And remember everyone, if you measure a transistor with
RF on it, all bets are off in terms of the DC voltages
measured. Now you know why there are no voltages shown on
the Tx portion of the schematic. No way to make those measurements
with simple equipment. You have to compute the DC bias values
in most cases, or use an oscilloscope that can deal with
the RF voltages that are present.
72 and thanks for the post,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 07:53 PM 12/21/01 +0000, Del, AD6WE wrote:
>I didn't exactly follow the "suggested layout" and I'm going to need to make
>longer leads than I would prefer from C35/R4 to T8(1) and from Q7 collector
>to T8(4)...will that be a problem?
Shouldn't be as long as they are not excessive. Something on the
order of 1 inch long should not cause any problems. 3 or 4 inches
might.
72 and build on.........
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 07:42 PM 12/21/01 +0000, Steve, G4GXL wrote:
> > Is your muting circuit engaged?
>
>No, I checked that as well. Sorry I forgot to mention it in the other
>post.
>
>I dunno, think I might as well get on with the TX, at least I will be
>able to work stuff even if the RX is not perfect !
I think continuing on is a good idea Steve. With a longer antenna
on the rig, it should hear better. I'm guessing that's all it
is, and the fact that some of the rigs come out a bit light
on audio for some reason. Might be the audio transformer,
or something else upstream. I do have a fix for low audio
that will be coming out shortly.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 07:20 PM 12/21/01 +0000, Steve, G4GXL wrote:
>Output volume is still low.
>
>Have aligned LO.
>
>Audio amp Voltages check out OK -
>Vcc 14.38
>Q11 c 13.9
>Q12 c 13.9
>Q9 Q10 e 3.1
>Q9 b 3.78
>Q10 b 3.78
>Q9 c and Q11 b 5.3
>Q10 c and Q12 b 5.3
These all look really good.
>In LO Q8 b=3.92 (?), e=3.98 (?), c=11.28 (are these OK ?)
Yes, they look screwy because the stage is oscillating. If
you want to measure the DC bias accurately, lift one end of
the crystal. Then the DC voltages will probably match those
on the schematic.
>I've replaced all transistors in audio amp, taken out Transformer
>and checked windings (Primary 56ohm, 28ohm to centre, Sec~1ohm)
Interesting. The transformer in my 2N2/40 has an 82 ohm primary,
and a 1.2 ohm secondary. We may need to make some adjustments
in circuit components to better match the primary impedance. I
suspect it is different than the transformer that I used.
>I've replaced the loudspeaker
>
>I get *lots* of audio when listening to my 7.030 Xtal oscillator but
>signals that are peaking S6/7 on the general coverage rx with 5 foot
>whip are *quiet* on 2n2-40 with 15 wire aerial.
Remember, the 2N2/40 is much quieter than most commercial rigs.
There are no DDS products, and building all the circuitry over
copper keeps circulating currents to a minimum. All that makes
for a very quiet system.
>Maybe it's working, I was just expecting to be able to crank up the
>volume to LOUD.
With 15 feet of wire for an antenna, the match on the input isn't
too good either.
>Output from IF Amp still OK when direct to general coverage rx (LO
>disabled).
OK....that's good data.
>Could I have a problem in the Product Detector ? I checked
>connections on T8 and T9. Haven't yet checked diodes in PD (they were
>a good match originally).
Probably OK, but maybe not enough LO drive to the PD. Do you
have a scope to measure the LO output, or an RF probe. If so,
let me know what you are seeing for drive to the PD.
>On the good news side, in 20 minutes of listening (6.30pm local) with
>my 15 foot wire I heard G, GM, F, DL, SM, I, IS, RA1, SM, S58, YO
>and YL.
>
>All were very clear, easy copy, just a bit quiet :-)
See quiet above. How is the audio with headphones?
>What next ?
Do a few more measurements, and then start building the
transmitter section.
72 and thanks for all of the good info. BTW, the pix look
great! Nice building job so far........
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 04:11 PM 12/21/01 +0000, you wrote:
>I had my first 2N2/40 QSO last night. Earlier in the evening, I had
>to learn the lesson about overdriving the finals and had to replace
>them. Make sure you have the drive pot turned all the way down the
>first time you key down using the PA and bring it up slowly to about
>2 Watts output.
Glad to hear another one is alive and making contacts. That's
great!!!! :-)
Hope to work you in one of the up coming 2N2/40 events, when
we get a few more on the air.
72 and watch that final drive,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Gang,
Would someone on the list please send me the URL for the
2N2-40 Yahoo groups. I'm forced to use my laptop computer
until I get the other machine up and running again. I've
done several searches on Yahoo, but it doesn't seem to be
able to find it's own web pages. Go figure!!!
Many thanks and 72,
Happy holidays to all also. Keep building those rigs guys and
gals.
Jim, K8IQY
|
1327|1327|2001-12-22 22:13:09|k8iqy|2n2-40 URL|Gang,
Cancel that last request. I found it, and the MH101 group
too.
Hope I didn't start a flood of emails!! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
1328|1328|2001-12-23 04:27:09|Hubert Smits|HElp! QRP result|Gang,
I have been a bit quiet in this group, 'cause I had an other project
running. That's now finished so I concntrate on the 2n2-40 again.
Promise! But if some of you experts could have a look at the picture in
in the group folder (MM0GMM/QRP) and tell me why I got a QRP transmitter
while I designed a QRP version? All help greatly appreciated.
Have a nice Christmas everybody!
--Hubert
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
1329|1328|2001-12-23 04:41:25|Hubert Smits|Re: HElp! QRP result|That should read: I got a QRO result with a QRP design...
-----Original Message-----
From: Hubert Smits [mailto:
hubert.smits@btinternet.com]
Sent: 23 December 2001 09:25
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] HElp! QRP result
Gang,
I have been a bit quiet in this group, 'cause I had an other project
running. That's now finished so I concntrate on the 2n2-40 again.
Promise! But if some of you experts could have a look at the picture in
in the group folder (MM0GMM/QRP) and tell me why I got a QRP transmitter
while I designed a QRP version? All help greatly appreciated.
Have a nice Christmas everybody!
--Hubert
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Hubert,
Very nice project. It looks great and I hope it
keeps growing even if it becomes QRO. Though,
you might consider a filter for it.
72,
Kaye, K8GZ
|
1331|1328|2001-12-23 09:58:45|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: HElp! QRP result|At 09:25 AM 12/23/2001 -0000, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>I have been a bit quiet in this group, 'cause I had an other project
>running. That's now finished so I concntrate on the 2n2-40 again.
>Promise! But if some of you experts could have a look at the picture in
>in the group folder (MM0GMM/QRP) and tell me why I got a QRP transmitter
>while I designed a QRP version? All help greatly appreciated.
>
>Have a nice Christmas everybody!
>
>--Hubert
>
Hubert,
Congradulations on the new arrival. It's a QRP package with
QRO lung capacity when needed!! :-)
Hope everyone is doing fine, and have a great holiday season.
I think you've got a really good start!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Congrats Hubert! A very cute little magoo. ;) You certainly do good
work.
The two I built can xmit at full power no problem but their receivers
have some filters on 'em that block out my voice, even at full volume,
with an amp.
73 es best wishes to all and their families for the holidays.
John, N1QO
Hubert Smits wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> I have been a bit quiet in this group, 'cause I had an other project
> running. That's now finished so I concntrate on the 2n2-40 again.
> Promise! But if some of you experts could have a look at the picture in
> in the group folder (MM0GMM/QRP) and tell me why I got a QRP transmitter
> while I designed a QRP version? All help greatly appreciated.
>
> Have a nice Christmas everybody!
>
> --Hubert
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi everyone,
Status report from the Rockies! After my last message saying I had
the "front end" where I could peak the tuning caps... I was hearing
AM stations thru my 2N2. AM 660 to be exact, plus others up and down
the AM band, but no CW... I decided to go ahead with the next
section with hopes that the filter and Amp might take away the bad
and let me hear the good.
Here's the good news. The Mixer Amp, Variable Xtal Filter and IF Amp
went together very nicely. I was happy with my construction... felt
good. (thats the good news)
(Get ready..here is the bad news) So I hooked up the general
receiver and went thru the steps to be sure everything was set
properly. Well, with the coax hooked up to the pad right after C26
(thats where I stopped) the AM stations appear to be gone....
Yeah!!! But, now I have no signals.... Booo! Hooked the coax back
to pin's 4&5 of T4 and there was the AM station. This time it was a
station at 666 (Hmmm, bad sign).
Frustration is starting to set in... I'm starting to consider letting
the Mojo out by sending it to someone to help me figure out. I've
been through the schematic many times over the last few weeks. I'm
sure I've done something wrong, but don't know what it might be.
Maybe I can find someone in Denver, or near that knows how to use my
scope to troubleshoot it.
Any ideas guys? Before, I was thinking about starting over.... now
I'm too far along to do that. I know I'm going to feel real silly
when I find out what I did wrong... but hey.. I can deal with a
little "feelin silly", just want to here CW coming thru my artwork!!!
Help me I'm sinking! :)
Thanks!
Tom
N0DSP
PS: I hope you all have a very happy and safe holiday season. Glad
to have such a good group of people to hang out with!
|
1334|1333|2001-12-23 15:02:55|wb0wao@hotmail.com|Re: Good news and bad news (AKA HELP!!!!)|Tom,
I had the SAME problem as well... check to make sure that the tuning
diodes are hooked up correctly, then check T7 and T8. I had them hooked
up wrong (easy to do ). Hope this helps!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1335|1335|2001-12-23 16:17:04|Brian|Solder Therapy|After begin dragged around the mall for HOURS and HOURS today...the
XYL has shown mercy and dumped me back off at the ranch. In 30 mins I
will be working on my VFO. Stay tuned....I want to get this done for
SKN!
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
|
1336|1336|2001-12-24 16:03:37|wb0wao|Enclosure de WB0WAO|Hey Jim es Gang....
Hope you all have a happy and joyous holiday season and a great new year. Well, I have finally got the 2N2/40+ in its final home. I had an old 20A power supply go QRT about a month ago, and decided to use it as the case. It is a steel 6x8x4 clamshell design and the rig fits great in it. I will try to get a pic of it up soon! Has great shielding and ventilation too. Looks real "60-ish" ARRL Handbook like as well!
72 es GUD building
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1337|1337|2001-12-25 23:06:05|adverse_yaw|Reciever Sensitivity Problem?|Gang,
Well I fixed the reciever and got all the stages working...
(misplaced components, wrong windings on toriods, etc.) Everything
is per the 2n240+ schematics now. Injecting a signal at TC9 I get a
good output on the speaker from +20db (duh) all the way down to -
42db.
The -42db signal reads 4mv p-p on my scope (measured at the POT5 side
of L11). But that is it. Any lower and I get no audio. This
doesn't seem right to me. Unless the transmitting station is right
next store I won't be getting a 4mv signal on my antenna. Has anyone
else had this problem?
I am injecting the signal with the HP8640B. Measuring with a
Tektronix 2213 o'scope. I adjusted TC5 to be 750Hz with a Fluke 87,
as the EXT frequeny input on the HP doesn't show anything for that
signal. TC9, TC1, TC2 are all peaked at 7.0500.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|
1338|1338|2001-12-26 01:38:35|Craig Johnson|Another 2N2-40 receiver is alive|Gang,
Another 2N2-40 receiver is alive!
I finished building the receiver and peaked TC1 and TC2 with scope at
Pin 1 of T3. Nice signal here and easy to peak both.
Did some measurements. At first, my VFO tuned from 2105 to 2207.
Adding the IF, this meant range was 7030 to 7122. Not bad, but a bit
high. I tweaked TC3, and can bring the low end down another 11 kHz
or so. Thus 7019 is now my low end. OK for now, but would like to
bring it down a bit more.
Measured crystal filter center frequency with VBW pot set to minumum.
Put scope on T7 pin 1. Transmit with another rig at about 7101 into
dummy load (minimim power possible) with T to antenna terminal.
Tuned VFO until I saw the peak signal on scope. Very sharp peak.
Frequency measured directly with frequency counter to be 4915.44 kHz.
Verify by measuring frequency at antenna (7101.02) and VFO frequency
(2185.58). Subtract and also get 4915.44. Nifty.
Now, to set up the Rx LO frequency. For USB, I want to put the Rx LO
at 750 Hz below the crystal filter center frequency for a 750 Hz tone.
Subtracting 750 from 4915.44 gives 4914.69. However, I find I can only
get my Rx LO down to to 4915.22 by turning TC5. (Upper end for Rx LO
is 4918.39). Leave it to 4915.22 for now.
Now receiving CW signals in speaker. USB verified, (tuning VFO UP in
frequency makes tone go LOWER). Opposite sideband rejection is good.
Tested VBW filter. Seems to work great. I can definitely see that with the
VBW filter set to wide, as I tune lower in I can hear the tones get higher
before they cut off than they would go with the VBW filter set to narrow. Nice.
One problem remaining. I don't think the audio amp is working right yet.
The output signal sounds a bit "muddy" to me. May be just the tiny speaker
I am using. I am getting some fairly strong sudio out when receiving some
strong CW signals on the air. I think I may have a bad component in the amp,
because I am quite sure I saw some "smoke leak out" one time when I was
sending a fairly strong signal through the audio amp. Smoke seemed to come
from area around Q11 or C29. I shut it down, and have not seen any smoke
since. All DC levels seem to be OK in the audio amp section. Operation did
not seem to change during the "great smoke out", but I was just in the process
setting up the Rx LO frequency at the time, so never really had a real
before-and-after comparison.
I look at the audio signal at wiper of Pot 3, and see a nice clean audio tone
(when signal being injected into antenna and the VFO tuned to that frequency).
However, it is not a clean sine wave any time after that through the audio amp,
and amplitude is not getting much larger either. Something wrong.
Any suggestions? Components to change?
Thanks.
73,
Craig, AA0ZZ
|
1339|1339|2001-12-26 02:17:34|wb0wao|New Pic|Hey gang...
Just posted a pic of the 2N2/40+ in its final home.
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1340|1333|2001-12-26 09:51:09|n0dsp|Good news and bad news (AKA HELP!!!!)|Hi everyone,
Status report from the Rockies! After my last message saying I had
the "front end" where I could peak the tuning caps... I was hearing
AM stations thru my 2N2. AM 660 to be exact, plus others up and down
the AM band, but no CW... I decided to go ahead with the next
section with hopes that the filter and Amp might take away the bad
and let me hear the good.
Here's the good news. The Mixer Amp, Variable Xtal Filter and IF Amp
went together very nicely. I was happy with my construction... felt
good. (thats the good news)
(Get ready..here is the bad news) So I hooked up the general
receiver and went thru the steps to be sure everything was set
properly. Well, with the coax hooked up to the pad right after C26
(thats where I stopped) the AM stations appear to be gone....
Yeah!!! But, now I have no signals.... Booo! Hooked the coax back
to pin's 4&5 of T4 and there was the AM station. This time it was a
station at 666 (Hmmm, bad sign).
Frustration is starting to set in... I'm starting to consider letting
the Mojo out by sending it to someone to help me figure out (Daddy
2N2??). I've been through the schematic many times over the last few
weeks. I'm sure I've done something wrong, but don't know what it
might be. Maybe I can find someone in Denver, or near that knows how
to use my scope to troubleshoot it.
Any ideas guys? Before, I was thinking about starting over.... now
I'm too far along to do that. I know I'm going to feel real silly
when I find out what I did wrong... but hey.. I can deal with a
little "feelin silly", just want to here CW coming thru my artwork!!!
Help me I'm sinking! :)
Thanks!
Tom
N0DSP
PS: I hope you all have a very happy and safe holiday season. Glad
to have such a good group of people to hang out with!
|
1341|1333|2001-12-26 10:43:51|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Good news and bad news (AKA HELP!!!!)|At 02:50 PM 12/26/2001 -0000, Tom, N0DSP wrote:
>Hi everyone,
>
>Status report from the Rockies! After my last message saying I had
>the "front end" where I could peak the tuning caps... I was hearing
>AM stations thru my 2N2. AM 660 to be exact, plus others up and down
>the AM band, but no CW... I decided to go ahead with the next
>section with hopes that the filter and Amp might take away the bad
>and let me hear the good.
>
>Here's the good news. The Mixer Amp, Variable Xtal Filter and IF Amp
>went together very nicely. I was happy with my construction... felt
>good. (thats the good news)
>
>(Get ready..here is the bad news) So I hooked up the general
>receiver and went thru the steps to be sure everything was set
>properly. Well, with the coax hooked up to the pad right after C26
>(thats where I stopped) the AM stations appear to be gone....
>Yeah!!! But, now I have no signals.... Booo! Hooked the coax back
>to pin's 4&5 of T4 and there was the AM station. This time it was a
>station at 666 (Hmmm, bad sign).
>
>Frustration is starting to set in... I'm starting to consider letting
>the Mojo out by sending it to someone to help me figure out (Daddy
>2N2??).
Yes, you can send it to me at my call book address and I'll be
happy to put it on the bench and figure out what is wrong.
I've been through the schematic many times over the last few
>weeks. I'm sure I've done something wrong, but don't know what it
>might be. Maybe I can find someone in Denver, or near that knows how
>to use my scope to troubleshoot it.
Why don't you persue that avenue first, and if it doesn't pan
out, send the rig to me.
>
>Any ideas guys? Before, I was thinking about starting over.... now
>I'm too far along to do that. I know I'm going to feel real silly
>when I find out what I did wrong... but hey.. I can deal with a
>little "feelin silly", just want to here CW coming thru my artwork!!!
Now that the crystal filter is in place, you have to make sure you
are tuning the attached receiver to the center of the crystal filter
passband. That's always a bit higher than the frequency marked on
the crystals. The first approximation would be about 4.916 MHz.
Some slight tuning around will find the best signal strength if
everything is working. And the signal going to the other receiver
is going to be really large, so you may overload it.
>
>Help me I'm sinking! :)
Sorry this is happening, but don't know what else to suggest.
What kind of test equipment do you have available?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:05 AM 12/26/2001 -0000, Kevin, KC8SFJ wrote:
>Gang,
>Well I fixed the reciever and got all the stages working...
>(misplaced components, wrong windings on toriods, etc.) Everything
>is per the 2n240+ schematics now. Injecting a signal at TC9 I get a
>good output on the speaker from +20db (duh) all the way down to -
>42db.
>The -42db signal reads 4mv p-p on my scope (measured at the POT5 side
>of L11). But that is it. Any lower and I get no audio. This
>doesn't seem right to me.
It's not. The rig has an MDS of about -128 dBm, so can hear an
ant walking.
My guess is that one of the diodes in the T/R switch is shorted, or
the RF Amp isn't working correctly, or the IF amplifier is oscillating,
or the alignment of the LO isn't correct, and you're losing all the signal
in the rig due to not having the LO properly set on the slope of the
crystal filter.
Unless the transmitting station is right
>next store I won't be getting a 4mv signal on my antenna. Has anyone
>else had this problem?
Several have, but all those rigs had a problem somewhere I believe.
>I am injecting the signal with the HP8640B. Measuring with a
>Tektronix 2213 o'scope. I adjusted TC5 to be 750Hz with a Fluke 87,
>as the EXT frequeny input on the HP doesn't show anything for that
>signal.
The LO has to be below the edge of the recieve passband by about
700 KHz. Make sure it is there, and not somewhere else.
TC9, TC1, TC2 are all peaked at 7.0500.
That's good news. Sounds like that area is working as designed.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Man! Do I know how you feel!
73 de Lee
km4yy
Suburbia is where the developer bulldozes out the trees, then names the
streets after them.
--Bill Vaughn
----- Original Message -----
From: "n0dsp" <n0dsp@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2001 1:33 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Good news and bad news (AKA HELP!!!!)
> Hi everyone,
>
> Status report from the Rockies! After my last message saying I had
> the "front end" where I could peak the tuning caps... I was hearing
> AM stations thru my 2N2. AM 660 to be exact, plus others up and down
> the AM band, but no CW... I decided to go ahead with the next
> section with hopes that the filter and Amp might take away the bad
> and let me hear the good.
>
> Here's the good news. The Mixer Amp, Variable Xtal Filter and IF Amp
> went together very nicely. I was happy with my construction... felt
> good. (thats the good news)
>
> (Get ready..here is the bad news) So I hooked up the general
> receiver and went thru the steps to be sure everything was set
> properly. Well, with the coax hooked up to the pad right after C26
> (thats where I stopped) the AM stations appear to be gone....
> Yeah!!! But, now I have no signals.... Booo! Hooked the coax back
> to pin's 4&5 of T4 and there was the AM station. This time it was a
> station at 666 (Hmmm, bad sign).
>
> Frustration is starting to set in... I'm starting to consider letting
> the Mojo out by sending it to someone to help me figure out. I've
> been through the schematic many times over the last few weeks. I'm
> sure I've done something wrong, but don't know what it might be.
> Maybe I can find someone in Denver, or near that knows how to use my
> scope to troubleshoot it.
>
> Any ideas guys? Before, I was thinking about starting over.... now
> I'm too far along to do that. I know I'm going to feel real silly
> when I find out what I did wrong... but hey.. I can deal with a
> little "feelin silly", just want to here CW coming thru my artwork!!!
>
> Help me I'm sinking! :)
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tom
> N0DSP
>
> PS: I hope you all have a very happy and safe holiday season. Glad
> to have such a good group of people to hang out with!
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
[snip]
> My guess is that one of the diodes in the T/R switch is shorted
Checked both diodes. 584~590Meg reversed, ~1.6M forward.
> the RF Amp isn't working correctly
Redid T6 and made sure it is hooked up correctly. I checked the
outputs from T6 and get a higher (by a factor of 10) output on the
collector of Q4 than I get on the Tap of T6 (4T/11T junction).
>or the IF amplifier is oscillating
Don't know how to check this. Help?
> or the alignment of the LO isn't correct, and you're losing all the
signal
> in the rig due to not having the LO properly set on the slope of the
> crystal filter.
I checked this by using the procedure in QRPp reprint. When I turn
the Tune Pot Clockwise the Audio out frequency goes lower in pitch.
This would indicate that the LO is set above the Filter peak, correct?
> Unless the transmitting station is right
> >next store I won't be getting a 4mv signal on my antenna. Has
anyone
> >else had this problem?
>
> Several have, but all those rigs had a problem somewhere I believe.
Still looking.
> >I am injecting the signal with the HP8640B. Measuring with a
> >Tektronix 2213 o'scope. I adjusted TC5 to be 750Hz with a Fluke
87,
> >as the EXT frequeny input on the HP doesn't show anything for that
> >signal.
>
> The LO has to be below the edge of the recieve passband by about
> 700 KHz. Make sure it is there, and not somewhere else.
See above.
> TC9, TC1, TC2 are all peaked at 7.0500.
>
> That's good news. Sounds like that area is working as designed.
At least I have that going for me. ;)
Thanks for all your help so far, Jim.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
Hey, Hubert...great job!
Have you figured out how to install any filters on that "QRO transmitter?"
Congratulations and Best Holiday Wishes!!!
Del, AD6WE
|
1346|1346|2001-12-26 18:56:59|cbj55126|Re: Another 2N2-40 receiver is alive |A little follow-up from my previous message:
> Did some measurements. At first, my VFO tuned from 2105 to 2207.
Correction: this should have said 2115 to 2207 ^^^^^^^^^
> Adding the IF, this meant range was 7030 to 7122. Not bad, but a
bit
> high. I tweaked TC3, and can bring the low end down another 11 kHz
> or so. Thus 7019 is now my low end. OK for now, but would like to
> bring it down a bit more.
>
I fixed this by adding 20 pf of capacitance in parallel with TC3. Now
can tune VFO down to 2085, so bottom end is 7000 kHz.
> Now, to set up the Rx LO frequency. For USB, I want to put the Rx
LO
> at 750 Hz below the crystal filter center frequency for a 750 Hz
tone.
> Subtracting 750 from 4915.44 gives 4914.69. However, I find I can
only
> get my Rx LO down to to 4915.22 by turning TC5. (Upper end for Rx
LO
> is 4918.39). Leave it to 4915.22 for now.
I fixed this by changing L3 from 39 uH to 63 uH. Now have Rx LO set
right at
4914.69.
>
> One problem remaining. I don't think the audio amp is working
right yet.
> The output signal sounds a bit "muddy" to me. May be just the tiny
speaker
It appears to be just the cheap speaker. I have connected headphones
and
now it sounds much better.
On to the transmitter.....
73,
Craig, AA0ZZ
I am in the process of repackaging the 10 Meter beacon I run (NQ2RP/B on
28.2873 MHz), and I can't find any feedthrough caps locally, not even at
my favorite surplus house.
Does anyone have six 0.001 uF feedthroughs? Threaded or solder mount are
OK.
I can wind the RF chokes, but trying to use disk caps leaves too much RF
on the DC lines still and the F2 component is wiping out Ch 2 TV big
time!
Thanks.
73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Trustee of the NQ2RP/B 10 M beacon
President, Brockport Amateur Radio Klub (BARK),
Technical Coordinator, ARRL WNY Section
Ph - 585.494.1239
mailto:
wb2vuo@arrl.net ________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Keith:
Ocean State Electronics makes one that would work nicely..
I think its
www.oselectronics.com
Good luck!
Tom
>From: wny-tc@juno.com
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2n2-40] OT:Need Feedthrough Caps
>Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 19:34:49 -0500
>
>I am in the process of repackaging the 10 Meter beacon I run (NQ2RP/B on
>28.2873 MHz), and I can't find any feedthrough caps locally, not even at
>my favorite surplus house.
>
>Does anyone have six 0.001 uF feedthroughs? Threaded or solder mount are
>OK.
>
>I can wind the RF chokes, but trying to use disk caps leaves too much RF
>on the DC lines still and the F2 component is wiping out Ch 2 TV big
>time!
>
>Thanks.
>
>73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Trustee of the NQ2RP/B 10 M beacon
>President, Brockport Amateur Radio Klub (BARK),
>Technical Coordinator, ARRL WNY Section
>Ph - 585.494.1239
>mailto:wb2vuo@arrl.net
>________________________________________________________________
>GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
>Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
>Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
>http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspxI think you my be in luck, Ill check the shop in the morning and mail you
some...
QRZ address ok ....?
Wes
At 07:34 PM 12/26/01 -0500, you wrote:
>I am in the process of repackaging the 10 Meter beacon I run (NQ2RP/B on
>28.2873 MHz), and I can't find any feedthrough caps locally, not even at
>my favorite surplus house.
>
>Does anyone have six 0.001 uF feedthroughs? Threaded or solder mount are
>OK.
>
>I can wind the RF chokes, but trying to use disk caps leaves too much RF
>on the DC lines still and the F2 component is wiping out Ch 2 TV big
>time!
>
>Thanks.
>
>73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Trustee of the NQ2RP/B 10 M beacon
>President, Brockport Amateur Radio Klub (BARK),
>Technical Coordinator, ARRL WNY Section
>Ph - 585.494.1239
>mailto:wb2vuo@arrl.net
>________________________________________________________________
>GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
>Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
>Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
>http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Yes, the address in QRZ is fine, and include a list of parts you could
use and I will send some back.
The junkbox is well stocked, but I just don't seem to have any
feedthroughs. They were a staple item in my earlier construction days,
especially in VHF converters.
Don't worry about the first name not matching. I go by my middle name.
Thanks.
73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Trustee of the NQ2RP/B 10 M beacon
President, Brockport Amateur Radio Klub (BARK),
Technical Coordinator, ARRL WNY Section
Ph - 585.494.1239
mailto:
wb2vuo@arrl.net ________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.I thought I would update the list to where I am at this time. I now
have until this weekend a TS940S to use as a general coverage receiver.
Last night I found that I had a mistake in wiring up the RF gain Pot to a
wrong pad and T1 was wired out of phase. I hooked up my TT2 to a dummy
load and set the TS940 to 4.915. I was able to find a signal but could
find any change when trying to peak TC9,TC1 and TC2.
This morning I found that I had not soldered one end of C15 back to
its pad after lifting it during some troubleshooting earlier. After
fixing this I was now able to find a peak and adjust all three variable
caps. I do have a question of how was I able to hear a signal with this
cap not in its proper place? Another thing that I have noticed was after
rewiring T1 and the RF pot, D8 would not light up. After removing the 1
turn from T6, D8 would light back up. The first time I made T6 I just
ran the wire straight through the toroid with no loop of any sort, later
I wound a loop as described on this list in what looked to me as in phase
with the other wiring. Now wired straight through D8 stays on so I left
it that way. I may try to reverse the loop later if this does not work.
I tried to find any CW signals but heard nothing. I felt a lot better
when I tuned across the band with another radio and found nothing on the
entire 40 meter band ( I guess the sun is doing its thing at this time).
I will check it out again later when 40 meters has signals on it again.
It may take me awhile, but sooner or later this radio is going to play
:-)
Ah, another thing is there suppose to be a strong signal on about 4.920
when this radio is turned on. It pegs the meter on the TS940, the TT2
transmitting into a dummy load is about S9 after the Caps were tweaked.
Thanks,
James KC5HAC
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Hi Jim/Guys -
I finished the VBW and have CW signals all the way thru to pin 1 on T7;
however, the VBW control seems to have no discernable affect on the sound or
signal level when I have the Icom tuned to 4.195 and connected to the 2N2-20
at T7. I have not yet built anything on the IF amplifer stage that follows.
I note that on the schematic dated 11/15/200, there is 2 volts indicated in
the diagram across the LED D14 and 4 volts indicated at the junction between
D14 and D15. I assume this is a typo in the scematic, as I get these
voltages reversed (i.e., 4 volts at the high end of D14 and 2 volts at the
junction between D14 and D15.
Does this sound correct?
73 de Lee
km4yy
|
1353|1311|2001-12-28 14:38:52|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Front End|At 05:07 AM 12/21/01 +0000, Tom Little, N0DSP
wrote:
>Hello again all!
>
>Jim, thanks for your thoughts on my rig. Played with it a bit
>tonight and will try to relay what I found. I don't know what it
>means, but maybe it will make sense to you guys.
>
> >> Set it at 2.135.... set the general receiver for 4.915,
> >>key up the K1 set at 7.050 and find the carrier on my general
> >>receiver hooked up to the 2N2-40 via coax.
>
> >Did you tune the 2N2/40 VFO or retune the attached receiver?
> >If the latter, what frequency was then displayed?
>
>I guess I tuned the 2N2/40 Vfo the other night. Tonight I did the
>above by finding 2.135 on the 2N2, switching the general receiver to
>4.915.20, keyed the K1 set to 7.050 and was listening to the carrier
>of the 2N2 on the receiver. Unkey the K1.... tune pot 5 on the 2n2.
>Again hearing strong "broadcast" stations. Switch the receiver to AM
>and tuned a station in using pot 5.
The fact that you are able to use Pot 5, the RF gain control
to change the tuning of the rig sounds very suspicious. All
Pot 5 ought to do is vary the signal strength of a received
signal, and certainly not change the frequency the rig is hearing.
That one has me completely stymied. I'm assuming that you have
checked your wiring against the schematics, and maybe had someone
else check it too, for a second pair of eyes.
>-snip-
> >>> Then I adjust Pot 5 and can hear
> >>>signals, but the seem to all be foreign broadcast or something. No
> >>>CW.
Same comment about being able to use Pot 5 for tuning. Don't
understand that at all.......
-snip-
> >Make sure the RF Amp isn't running as an oscillator.
> >If nothing else, reverse the emitter 1 turn coil, and see if the
> >rig performs differently if you don't have any test equipment.
>
>I've put it both ways. I think the way it is now is correct. It is
>the only way I can actually get the signal to peak with the
>trimmers. Phased the other way the trimmers almost seem to "tune"
>instead of peak the carrier and I think I hear the sound of rushing
>water that I have heard described by others.
I'd guess if you have is running as an oscillator, tuning
the trimmers would probably vary the frequency at which it
oscillates. I've not built one the wrong way, so only
speculation on my end.
-snip-
>Thanks Jim and everyone else! Learning is painful sometimes! :) But
>still have a positive attitude and having fun.
Good. Hope you can track down the problem(s) soon so you
feel confident to continue builting.
72 and thanks for the feedback again,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....happy new year to all of the 2N2/40 builders.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 05:50 PM 12/27/01 -0500, Lee, km4yy wrote:
>Hi Jim/Guys -
>I finished the VBW and have CW signals all the way thru to pin 1 on T7;
>however, the VBW control seems to have no discernable affect on the sound or
>signal level when I have the Icom tuned to 4.195 and connected to the 2N2-20
>at T7. I have not yet built anything on the IF amplifer stage that follows.
Sounds like the control voltage to the MV1662s isn't getting there, or
changing. Put a voltmeter on the wiper of Pot 2 and verify that the
voltage changes from 4 volts down to 2 volts as it is rotated. Next,
verify that you see the same change on each of the varicaps, D9
and D10. Verify that D9 and D10 are installed correctly. The anode lead
is grounded, and the cathode connects to a 100K resistor with the
control voltage.
Also, without the IF amplifier there, the secondary of T7 needs to have
a 4.8 ohm resistor across it to properly terminate the filter. That
could also be part of the problem.
>I note that on the schematic dated 11/15/200, there is 2 volts indicated in
>the diagram across the LED D14 and 4 volts indicated at the junction between
>D14 and D15. I assume this is a typo in the scematic,
Yes, it is, and I thought I had corrected that, but now need to
see what is on the Yahoo site. It may be that you are working from
an earlier schematic.
> as I get these
>voltages reversed (i.e., 4 volts at the high end of D14 and 2 volts at the
>junction between D14 and D15.
Yep, that's the way it is supposed to work, but wasn't shown that
way on the schematic due to my error.
72 and let us know what you find with the control voltage,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Guys
I just built the transmitter. It is almost working, but not quite.
Not quite sure the output is as clean as it should be.
(By the way, the receiver is working GREAT! The contest tonight is
giving a band full of signals.)
I can see a pretty good signal at the wiper of Pot 4. Frequency is right on
(vary from 7000 kHz to 7084 kHz.) Signal at wiper has a maximum of
180mv p-p when Pot wide open. However, it doesn't look completely
symmetrical. I tweaked it with TC8. Definately "muddy" at some settings,
but fairly good at the end. (TC7 seem to have no effect.)
Now I can see the nice, clean signal all the way through to the base
of the three final 2N2222A's. Here, when pot 4 wide open, I am getting
about 1.6v p-p.
Now I look at the collectors and it is not a nice sine wave any more.
Fairly "spikey" with a kink in the middle on the way down. About
15v p-p max.
At the antenna it is fairly clean but again appears a bit "spikey"
to me. Is this normal? Output here is only about 14v p-p.
By the way, in debugging this I decided to go way backto the Tx Local
Oscillator. This doesn't look quite right to me either. The waveform
seems to be clipped - it is very "spikey" at the top and clipped at the
bottom. Putting my scope in DC mode, I can see the spike goes
from 4 to 6 volts. Then it drops down to about 3.5v, and climbs back
up to 4 before starting the next spike.
I am wondering if my DC bias is wrong on Q14. Here is what I have.
Tx: 11.3 v
Q14 Collector: 9.58 v
Q14 Base : 3.85 v
Q14 Emitter: Waveform as above.
Any info on what this should look like?
Thanks.
Almost there!
73,
Craig, AA0ZZ
|
1356|1311|2001-12-29 07:59:53|wb0wao@hotmail.com|Re: Front End|Tuning via the RF Gain....... You dont have the RIT grounded!! Happened
to me.... Real easy to "forget" that the "outboard" board needs
to be grounded to the main board.
72 es have fun!
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1357|1355|2001-12-29 10:51:04|John Wagner|Re: Another 2N2-40 is coming alive!|Hi Craig,
Craig Johnson wrote:
>
> Hi Guys
>
> I just built the transmitter. It is almost working, but not quite.
> Not quite sure the output is as clean as it should be.
>
> (By the way, the receiver is working GREAT! The contest tonight is
> giving a band full of signals.)
Mine is still a bit deaf. I've spent a lot of lonely nights with it
too...
> I can see a pretty good signal at the wiper of Pot 4. Frequency is right on
> (vary from 7000 kHz to 7084 kHz.) Signal at wiper has a maximum of
> 180mv p-p when Pot wide open. However, it doesn't look completely
I've got 400mV p-p here. Double check your work around Q16, I had a
mistake in mine - easy to do, a lot going on here.
I've got a dip in the bottom of the waveform here as well.
> symmetrical. I tweaked it with TC8. Definately "muddy" at some settings,
> but fairly good at the end. (TC7 seem to have no effect.)
>
> Now I can see the nice, clean signal all the way through to the base
> of the three final 2N2222A's. Here, when pot 4 wide open, I am getting
> about 1.6v p-p.
I get the same here.
> Now I look at the collectors and it is not a nice sine wave any more.
> Fairly "spikey" with a kink in the middle on the way down. About
> 15v p-p max.
>
> At the antenna it is fairly clean but again appears a bit "spikey"
> to me. Is this normal? Output here is only about 14v p-p.
I've got 28v p-p here. Output is a nice clean sine wave. Sounds like you
might have a bad 2n2222 in the final(?) or perhaps the LPF isn't hooked
up correctly.
> By the way, in debugging this I decided to go way backto the Tx Local
> Oscillator. This doesn't look quite right to me either. The waveform
> seems to be clipped - it is very "spikey" at the top and clipped at the
> bottom. Putting my scope in DC mode, I can see the spike goes
> from 4 to 6 volts. Then it drops down to about 3.5v, and climbs back
> up to 4 before starting the next spike.
>
> I am wondering if my DC bias is wrong on Q14. Here is what I have.
>
> Tx: 11.3 v
> Q14 Collector: 9.58 v
> Q14 Base : 3.85 v
> Q14 Emitter: Waveform as above.
In mine, Q14:
Collector 9.5v
Base: 3.8v
Emitter: 4.4v
so it sounds like this is correct.
Hope this helps!
73 de John, N1QO
> Any info on what this should look like?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Almost there!
>
> 73,
> Craig, AA0ZZ
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGang,
It's kind of tough to post voltages when trouble shooting the recv as we
are usually using different sources of RF noise/osscillators to trouble
shoot.
However, I think if we use the output of the tx, which is fed directly
into the recvr then we would have a known signal size. Mine is 28v p-p
at the ant.
I've narrowed down my problem to I believe either T4 or the Mixer amp or
the xtal filter. I don't think it's the filter though.
Here is what I'm seeing;
On nodes 3 and 6 of T3 I get a nice sine wave of the incoming signal
generated by the xmiter. p-p is abt 250mv
On T3 3 and 6 I see the VFO at 1.2v p-p.
On the output of T4 (node C pins 4/5) I see a muddled signal on my scope
that sort of looks like a sine wave. p-p abt 100mv
After the mixer amp I see the muddled looking sine wave (it's so muddled
that getting a freq with the scope doesn't work) I see 400mv. This leads
me to believe the mixer amp is OK.
AFter the filter I barely see a signal. After the IF Amp this get bumped
up again quite a bit (didn't measure).
So I'm leaning towards T4 being installed incorrectly. Just wondering
what others see in their rigs.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi All,
I got started back on the rig this afternoon and found that all is
well not. Previously I was attempting to look at the signal on the IF
Amp output but didn't ahve it terminated. This left the final
amplification stage unterminated so it was oscillating like a banchie.
The spikes I mentioned in the previous post were there if the amp was
unterminated and went away with the receiver signal replacing it.
Great joy....
On to building the Rx LO and tested OK. Now for the detector and audio
amplifier. Perhaps sometime this week I'll be able to receive some
7.040 signals on it's own capabilities. It gets more exciting as I
learn the ins and outs of testing while making progress.
I found a box for the rig while in Dallas with the grand kids. I got
it at Tanner Electronics but also wee it in a BG Micro ad
(www.bgmico.com). It's the Sony PCM Audio breakout box they have on
the first page of their current ad. They're asking $15.95 but I was
able to get mine from Tanner for much less. The Tanner deal is
probably only good if you live are in Dallas to pick it up ($8.95).
The box is 7.5X5.5X2.5 inches. The front plate is a throw away and the
back panel doesn't have a hole in it. If one wanted to they could use
the panel that has the holes but it's just a plain sheet metal that
can be replaced. Hope this might be helpful to someone looking for a
box.
Back to melting solder.
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
|
1360|1360|2001-12-30 20:32:13|k8iqy|2N2/40+ Transmit section oscilloscope waveforms|Gang,
I've posted a set of 9 oscilloscope pictures to the photos
section of Yahoo. These were taken last night on my rig,
and will give you an idea what the waveforms look like in
my rig. Some of them are not as nice as I'd like them
to be, but when I designed the rig, I didn't have the
oscilloscope that I have now. It may be time to go
back in and tweak a few values to get some of the traces
to look a bit better. Or others of you who have equipment
may just want to do that, and post to the group what changes
you've made.
I'm also going to do the same thing with the receiver section,
using the rigs own transmit signal set at two watts for the
input signal. As John, N1QO suggested, that will give everyone
a baseline set of waveforms with which to work. I'll post those
as soon as I can get them done. Busy time with all of the
holiday activities.
72 and happy new year to all,
Jim, K8IQY
|
1361|1360|2001-12-31 14:41:23|John Wagner|Re: 2N2/40+ Transmit section oscilloscope waveforms|Man are these great! It's really good to know that my xmit section looks
just like yours!
Looking forward to seeing the recv pics, I suspect I'll be able to
locate my problem much easier now.
I'm curious what kind of scope you have Jim? It's really neat the way
your images come out with the annotations and all. Does it save them to
disk for you or is there some sort of PC interface? I'm using a Tek 465
that I bought at a hamfest last year. While I find it handy, I'm
starting to think that a newfangled scope with more features would be
nice to have!
73 es HNY to all,
John, N1QO
k8iqy wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> I've posted a set of 9 oscilloscope pictures to the photos
> section of Yahoo. These were taken last night on my rig,
> and will give you an idea what the waveforms look like in
> my rig. Some of them are not as nice as I'd like them
> to be, but when I designed the rig, I didn't have the
> oscilloscope that I have now. It may be time to go
> back in and tweak a few values to get some of the traces
> to look a bit better. Or others of you who have equipment
> may just want to do that, and post to the group what changes
> you've made.
>
> I'm also going to do the same thing with the receiver section,
> using the rigs own transmit signal set at two watts for the
> input signal. As John, N1QO suggested, that will give everyone
> a baseline set of waveforms with which to work. I'll post those
> as soon as I can get them done. Busy time with all of the
> holiday activities.
>
> 72 and happy new year to all,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI think that I am getting closer. I have spent more time than I want
to admit on section 3. I did go through and reheat all my pads and now
when I make my 1 turn loop on T6, D8 remains lit. Still not sure why D8
only went out when I looped the 1 turn before, but it now seems to be
history. I now can hear broadcast stations in the background when
listening to the general coverage receiver and these disappear when I
turn off the power to the 2N2\40, but I am not hearing any CW signals.
This is much better than hearing nothing at all :-).
I am going to continue with building the TX portion of the radio and
maybe when I return to section 3, after a break, I might find my problem.
I do want to add that even though I am having problems getting mine to
work correctly I am gaining more understanding because of the explaining
and re-explaining of topics, such as phasing for example. I found in
several places in my work where I had not done this properly and at some
point between reading E-mails and trying to find problems, it clicked.
It seems so simple now. My wife will confirm that I have a very thick
skull.
James
KC5HAC
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Tom,
Got your rig this morning, Monday, Dec 31, and found the
problem almost immediately. You inadvertently used a
47 ohm resistor in the base bias circuit of Q6 instead
of the 47K that was supposed to be there. It is resistor
R23 on the schematic. The net result of that error fried
Q6, and therefore, the IF amplifier had no gain. Once
I got the correct resistor installed, and the transistor
replaced, it works just fine.
I tuned it up with the signal generator mid-band, and it
can hear a -117dBm signal. That's about 0.3 microvolts, so
plenty of sensitivity. It is very quiet, and seems to be
working fine, with the exception that the audio output
is a bit lower than on my rig. I think it is the output
transformers that you all used that came from Snort Solder
Steve. It's not a big deal, as the rig still has plenty of audio.
On an S9 signal, it will drive you out of the room at full volume.
I've got an audio amplifier modification coming that will fix
that problem, and then some.
You need to get trimmer capacitor TC9 tied down so that
it isn't flooting around. I'd suggest rebuilding that part
of the circuitry above and to the left of the input tuned
circuits. There is room there, on the margine to the
Tx area, if you build it in a straight line. That will also
put the RF gain control lines all in the same area, since
the output of that pot needs to go to the primary of the first
toroid. I'll mark the board area for you so you can see
what I mean.
I'll mail the rig back on Wednesday, since the USPS is closed
tomorrow. I'm also sending back the offending parts, so you
can see them, and test the transistor.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....I'm posting this reply to the 2N2-40 group, so other can
learn from this experience. I hope you don't mind. I not trying
to embarrass anyone, but this is a really good example where a
single part in a critical area can make or break all the effort
going into a rig.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
1364|1311|2001-12-31 15:25:50|John Wagner|Re: Your 2N2/40|I hope Tom doesn't mind, I doubt he will.
I just want to say that there is NOTHING to be embarrassed about asking
for help, or sending a rig to someone else to look at. When I built my
K-1 I had a problem that Gary from Elecraft couldn't trouble shoot with
numerous emails or over the phone (and he did try). I reluctantly sent
the rig into Gary to be fixed - felt like I was giving up, but I was at
my wits end. The problem turned out to be the through-the-hole
connection in the board (sorry, don't know the proper terminology) under
the 40m crystal on the filter was broken, so the xtal was half
connected. I had to pay Elecraft to fix the problem (something I'm not
entirely sure was my fault either), but I was glad to have the rig back
and finally working. I've since sold the K-1, but I do remember the
feeling of giving up and sending it in.
Glad Tom's gonna be back on track. Hope to be there myself soon! (and
I'm checking all my parts values again tonight too!).
73,
John, N1QO
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
> Got your rig this morning, Monday, Dec 31, and found the
> problem almost immediately. You inadvertently used a
> 47 ohm resistor in the base bias circuit of Q6 instead
> of the 47K that was supposed to be there. It is resistor
> R23 on the schematic. The net result of that error fried
> Q6, and therefore, the IF amplifier had no gain. Once
> I got the correct resistor installed, and the transistor
> replaced, it works just fine.
>
> I tuned it up with the signal generator mid-band, and it
> can hear a -117dBm signal. That's about 0.3 microvolts, so
> plenty of sensitivity. It is very quiet, and seems to be
> working fine, with the exception that the audio output
> is a bit lower than on my rig. I think it is the output
> transformers that you all used that came from Snort Solder
> Steve. It's not a big deal, as the rig still has plenty of audio.
> On an S9 signal, it will drive you out of the room at full volume.
>
> I've got an audio amplifier modification coming that will fix
> that problem, and then some.
>
> You need to get trimmer capacitor TC9 tied down so that
> it isn't flooting around. I'd suggest rebuilding that part
> of the circuitry above and to the left of the input tuned
> circuits. There is room there, on the margine to the
> Tx area, if you build it in a straight line. That will also
> put the RF gain control lines all in the same area, since
> the output of that pot needs to go to the primary of the first
> toroid. I'll mark the board area for you so you can see
> what I mean.
>
> I'll mail the rig back on Wednesday, since the USPS is closed
> tomorrow. I'm also sending back the offending parts, so you
> can see them, and test the transistor.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS....I'm posting this reply to the 2N2-40 group, so other can
> learn from this experience. I hope you don't mind. I not trying
> to embarrass anyone, but this is a really good example where a
> single part in a critical area can make or break all the effort
> going into a rig.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 02:43 PM 12/31/01 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>Man are these great! It's really good to know that my xmit section looks
>just like yours!
Well that's good info too John. I have a very limited data
set regarding those waveforms. Just my two rigs!! :-)
>Looking forward to seeing the recv pics, I suspect I'll be able to
>locate my problem much easier now.
I got interrupted with a bit of trouble shooting on N0DSP's
rig. His receiver is working great now.
>I'm curious what kind of scope you have Jim?
It's a Tektronix TDS380 digital oscilloscope. Has 2 channels
at 400 MHz bandwidth, and lots of goodies on it. I bought
it from Tucker in new condition at a very attractive price.
Those kind of deals don't come around very often, so I jumped
at the chance. It still cost plenty, but well worth the investment.
> It's really neat the way
>your images come out with the annotations and all.
I have to add the annotations at the bottom using some software
on the computer, but the basic image with all of the scope settings
comes out on floppy disk.
> Does it save them to
>disk for you or is there some sort of PC interface?
Actually both. I've got it setup to output onto floppy disk
currently, but it also has RS232, and IEEE488 interfaces built
in, along with a Centronics printer port for direct hardcopy.
It can also do a bunch of output formats.
> I'm using a Tek 465
>that I bought at a hamfest last year. While I find it handy, I'm
>starting to think that a newfangled scope with more features would be
>nice to have!
Before I got the TDS380, I was using a Tek 453, 50 MHz analog
scope. OK, but this new one is soooo much nicer. It also has
built in math capability, and can do RMS, peaks, p-p, etc, and
best of all, FFT, so you can generate spectrum plots. Not as good
as a high end SA, but quite nice for a single instrument.
I'll get those Rx pix soon,
72 and HNY to you,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
If anyone has the latest changes on the RX mute design I'd appreciate a copy. I'm hoping to start building the product detector and local oscillator tomorrow and would like to start working on the layout for the RX mute and audio amp.
The first 4 stages seem to be hearing OK except for Q4 running a little hot. I've checked the emitter resistor and it is 68ohm as specified. I've spent a lot of time on this one and I'm still puzzled by it. In the meantime I'm running OK with a heatsink on Q4. If anyone has had a similar problem or has a sugestion - I'd appreciate some input.
Best wishes to all for a happy and healthy new year,
73 Dov AD0V/2
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|
1367|1367|2002-01-01 22:11:01|Ken Mitchell|Another 2n2-40 Receiver alive but...|All,
Some joy. The receiver is alive but it takes 150 mv or so to get it
alive. At this level I can tune the Rx Input Filter for maximum (using
scope on C15) and the RxLO to match the tune-up procedure but still a
much too strong a signal required.
So, I setup a signal source with the MFJ 259B (a couple turns around the
gdo coil that's terminated in a 1K resister to the receiver input). This
way I can vary the signal strength by moving the coil along the gdo coil
for coupling. With this arrangement I measure the input signal on one
channel of the scope (tek 475) and using a 10x probe look at the output
of the RF Amp (capacitor C15, 2N2-40+ drawing). 150MV on the Rx input at
T1 gives only ~700MV at C15, not the 12DB gain expected. Using a 12.4
VCC I'm getting Q4 voltages, C 11.41, B 1.79, E 1.23. I'm wondering of
the 2 V LED would help? Or could this be something with the coil
windings? The peaks are good on TC1 and TC2, the VxFilter works as
expected and I seem to get the mice peaking around the desired 750 KHz
CW tone by varying the RxLO frequency. Any ideas how to get the gain up?
73,
Ken. KD2KW
Spring, Tx
|
1368|1367|2002-01-02 07:34:06|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Another 2n2-40 Receiver alive but...|At 09:10 PM 1/1/02 -0600, Ken, KD2KW wrote:
>All,
>
>Some joy. The receiver is alive but it takes 150 mv or so to get it
>alive. At this level I can tune the Rx Input Filter for maximum (using
>scope on C15) and the RxLO to match the tune-up procedure but still a
>much too strong a signal required.
Something obviously wrong..... Sounds like an identical problem
with the rig that I just finished looking at. The IF Amplifier
wasn't because of a wrong component, and you can't give up 45 dB
of gain in a receive string.
>So, I setup a signal source with the MFJ 259B (a couple turns around the
>gdo coil that's terminated in a 1K resister to the receiver input). This
>way I can vary the signal strength by moving the coil along the gdo coil
>for coupling. With this arrangement I measure the input signal on one
>channel of the scope (tek 475) and using a 10x probe look at the output
>of the RF Amp (capacitor C15, 2N2-40+ drawing). 150MV on the Rx input at
>T1 gives only ~700MV at C15, not the 12DB gain expected.
Well actually, that's a bit more gain than the stage is supposed to
produce. The 12 dB is power gain, so the readings you have need
to be squared. No need to convert them to RMS values, since one is being
divided by the other. Formula to use is Gain = 10*log(V2^2/V1^2).
So that becomes 10*log(.700^2/.150^2) and the result is 13.4 dB
of power gain. With the turns ratio on transformer T6, you should
be seeing 12 dB.
> Using a 12.4
>VCC I'm getting Q4 voltages, C 11.41, B 1.79, E 1.23. I'm wondering of
>the 2 V LED would help?
Probably not. These voltages are quite reasonable for an LED with
1.8 volt drop. Another 0.2 volts won't make any significant
difference.
>Or could this be something with the coil
>windings?
Those are probably correct with the numbers you are seeing, and the
fact that the stage is amplifying, and not oscillating.
> The peaks are good on TC1 and TC2, the VxFilter works as
>expected and I seem to get the mice peaking around the desired 750 KHz
>CW tone by varying the RxLO frequency. Any ideas how to get the gain up?
What is going on in the post-mixer amplifier, Q5. Are you seeing
decent gain through that stage? How much gain are you seeing going
through the IF amplifier. You should be seeing at least 40 dB of
gain there also if it is working correctly. Measure the IF amplifier
with the Rx LO not running by shorting the base of Q8 with a clip lead.
If it is running, you'll get weird readings as there is some reverse
transfer of the LO into the IF amplifier.
Also, do you have the Rx voltage line hooked up to Q13 in the
Rx mute stage. If the gate isn't powered up, not much gets through
the 2N7000 and the parallel resistor.
72, and keep us posted on what you find Ken,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Tom,
Your 2N2/40 went out this morning via USPS priority mail.
Should get back to you in a few days.
72 and glad I was able to help you,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
1370|1367|2002-01-02 14:32:38|kd2kw|Re: Another 2n2-40 Receiver alive but...|Jim,
Saw your reply while at work and thought I would reply while on lunch
break.
I should try to remember those formulae. So the gain of the RF amp is
about
right.. Here's what made me suspicious. It didn't look as if there
was anything out of the mixer at the center tap of T4 untill I got
inputs at the levels I measured the gain with. I checked the diode
voltage drops and made some changes to get a closer match and even
rewound T4 thinking there was something wrong with the balance of the
mixer. Now that the gain of the RF amp is Ok this may put me back to
the IF Amp Q6 & 7 in diagnosis (I was working what I thought was a
problem here before I built the remaining sections of the receiver).
I'll follow your points to remove the Rx LO and make measurements.
I'll continue with the high level on the input so I can know that
something is getting through and make level comparisons on the
input/output of the IF stages.
I do have Vcc hooked to the Rx mute circuit but am using the old
circuit for the time being as I don't have a 2N7000. Next parts trip
will do this as a change. I'll get to experience the difference this
way.
I'm wondering what RF level I could use at 4.915 at the input of the
mixer amp? Could I inject a RF signal (without the LO and Rx LO
running) at a level on 4.915 that I can see on the lowest scope
setting and measure gain through the IF that way? I'd have to guess
the input impedance for the mixer amp is low (Gnd base amp), say 50 -
100 ohms?
Oh, If I remove the LO and terminate T4 with something like a 100 ohm
resister for the LO shouldn't I be able to see the 7.040 signal from
the RF amp? Seems the mixer output when the diodes are conducting is a
load with both the injected signal and the output load in series? If
so then I should be able to check the balanced mixer output on 7.040
by replacing the LO with a load thereby seeing a single 7.040 waveform
across the input to the mixer amp. This should work even with a short
replacing the feed resistance of the LO if I'm correct. I seem to
recall not getting anything out of the balanced mixer with this test
arrangement.
I'll check the email tonight before I go attempting more diagnosis. If
nothing I'll review the mixer and IF amps as planned. The xtal filter
seems to be working as I can vary the bandwidth as seem by changing
the frequency on the outside edge and varying the bandwidth control to
reduce the resultant audio tone.
Thanks for being there. You've been a great help in bringing back the
application of formulae to an understanding of the problem. One of my
purposes in doing this project. Of course it also fun to get a project
completed even if in stages and with issues along the way. I seem to
learn more that way.
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 09:10 PM 1/1/02 -0600, Ken, KD2KW wrote:
>
> >All,
> >
> >Some joy. The receiver is alive but it takes 150 mv or so to get it
> >alive. At this level I can tune the Rx Input Filter for maximum
(using
> >scope on C15) and the RxLO to match the tune-up procedure but still
a
> >much too strong a signal required.
>
> Something obviously wrong..... Sounds like an identical problem
> with the rig that I just finished looking at. The IF Amplifier
> wasn't because of a wrong component, and you can't give up 45 dB
> of gain in a receive string.
>
>
> >So, I setup a signal source with the MFJ 259B (a couple turns
around the
> >gdo coil that's terminated in a 1K resister to the receiver input).
This
> >way I can vary the signal strength by moving the coil along the gdo
coil
> >for coupling. With this arrangement I measure the input signal on
one
> >channel of the scope (tek 475) and using a 10x probe look at the
output
> >of the RF Amp (capacitor C15, 2N2-40+ drawing). 150MV on the Rx
input at
> >T1 gives only ~700MV at C15, not the 12DB gain expected.
>
> Well actually, that's a bit more gain than the stage is supposed to
> produce. The 12 dB is power gain, so the readings you have need
> to be squared. No need to convert them to RMS values, since one is
being
> divided by the other. Formula to use is Gain = 10*log(V2^2/V1^2).
> So that becomes 10*log(.700^2/.150^2) and the result is 13.4 dB
> of power gain. With the turns ratio on transformer T6, you should
> be seeing 12 dB.
>
> > Using a 12.4
> >VCC I'm getting Q4 voltages, C 11.41, B 1.79, E 1.23. I'm wondering
of
> >the 2 V LED would help?
>
> Probably not. These voltages are quite reasonable for an LED with
> 1.8 volt drop. Another 0.2 volts won't make any significant
> difference.
>
> >Or could this be something with the coil
> >windings?
>
> Those are probably correct with the numbers you are seeing, and the
> fact that the stage is amplifying, and not oscillating.
>
> > The peaks are good on TC1 and TC2, the VxFilter works as
> >expected and I seem to get the mice peaking around the desired 750
KHz
> >CW tone by varying the RxLO frequency. Any ideas how to get the
gain up?
>
> What is going on in the post-mixer amplifier, Q5. Are you seeing
> decent gain through that stage? How much gain are you seeing going
> through the IF amplifier. You should be seeing at least 40 dB of
> gain there also if it is working correctly. Measure the IF
amplifier
> with the Rx LO not running by shorting the base of Q8 with a clip
lead.
> If it is running, you'll get weird readings as there is some reverse
> transfer of the LO into the IF amplifier.
>
> Also, do you have the Rx voltage line hooked up to Q13 in the
> Rx mute stage. If the gate isn't powered up, not much gets through
> the 2N7000 and the parallel resistor.
>
> 72, and keep us posted on what you find Ken,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 07:32 PM 1/2/02 +0000, Ken, KD2KW wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Saw your reply while at work and thought I would reply while on lunch
>break.
>
>I should try to remember those formulae. So the gain of the RF amp is
>about
>right.. Here's what made me suspicious. It didn't look as if there
>was anything out of the mixer at the center tap of T4 untill I got
>inputs at the levels I measured the gain with. I checked the diode
>voltage drops and made some changes to get a closer match and even
>rewound T4 thinking there was something wrong with the balance of the
>mixer. Now that the gain of the RF amp is Ok this may put me back to
>the IF Amp Q6 & 7 in diagnosis (I was working what I thought was a
>problem here before I built the remaining sections of the receiver).
>I'll follow your points to remove the Rx LO and make measurements.
>I'll continue with the high level on the input so I can know that
>something is getting through and make level comparisons on the
>input/output of the IF stages.
Yes, that's a good way to test the system. When I was testing
N0DSP's receiver, I was driving it with about -30 dBm, or 20 millivolts
peak to peak for a signal, so that I could follow the signal with
my scope. It only goes down to 20 millivolts with the 10X probes
plugged in.
>I do have Vcc hooked to the Rx mute circuit but am using the old
>circuit for the time being as I don't have a 2N7000. Next parts trip
>will do this as a change. I'll get to experience the difference this
>way.
The 2N2222 approach works just fine for receiving. Just more noise
and pops when transmitting than the 2N7000 or J176 approach.
>I'm wondering what RF level I could use at 4.915 at the input of the
>mixer amp? Could I inject a RF signal (without the LO and Rx LO
>running) at a level on 4.915 that I can see on the lowest scope
>setting and measure gain through the IF that way?
That will work fine. A level of 20 millivolts, or something
around that level will work fine. It may saturate the IF amplifier,
but you can always back off the drive when you get farther downstream
with the measurements.
>I'd have to guess
>the input impedance for the mixer amp is low (Gnd base amp), say 50 -
>100 ohms?
It's 50 ohms input at port "C" by design.
>Oh, If I remove the LO and terminate T4 with something like a 100 ohm
>resister for the LO shouldn't I be able to see the 7.040 signal from
>the RF amp?
No. If the mixer isn't driven by the VFO, there won't be enough
signal from the input to turn on the diodes, and nothing will come
out at port "C". More importantly, if the mixer is perfectly balanced,
the RF on the RF port should not show up at the output until the LO (VFO)
port is being driven, and in a similar manner, if the LO port is being
driven, there should not be any output until the RF port is driven.
That's why it is called a double balanced mixer; not RF or LO on
the output if it is perfectly balanced, only the sum and difference
products, and the higher order products from harmonics.
> Seems the mixer output when the diodes are conducting is a
>load with both the injected signal and the output load in series?
> If
>so then I should be able to check the balanced mixer output on 7.040
>by replacing the LO with a load thereby seeing a single 7.040 waveform
>across the input to the mixer amp.
Sorry, that won't work if the mixer is working correctly. You should not
see very much input RF if it is properly balanced, regardless of whether
the VFO is running or not.
> This should work even with a short
>replacing the feed resistance of the LO if I'm correct. I seem to
>recall not getting anything out of the balanced mixer with this test
>arrangement.
That's what you should be getting if the balance is good. Nothing out
on the input frequency, no VFO on the output, but the sums and difference
frequencies, and the difference, 4.9152 being the the one we are most
interested in.
>I'll check the email tonight before I go attempting more diagnosis. If
>nothing I'll review the mixer and IF amps as planned. The xtal filter
>seems to be working as I can vary the bandwidth as seem by changing
>the frequency on the outside edge and varying the bandwidth control to
>reduce the resultant audio tone.
Glad to hear the VBF is working correctly. At least that isn't
an issue at this point.
>Thanks for being there. You've been a great help in bringing back the
>application of formulae to an understanding of the problem.
Glad I can help.......
>One of my
>purposes in doing this project. Of course it also fun to get a project
>completed even if in stages and with issues along the way. I seem to
>learn more that way.
We all do....that's part of the fun I think.
72 and TTUL,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Jim and the gang!
Happy New Year! I hope it is a great one for everyone. Jim, THANK
YOU for taking the time to check out my radio! Yes, I guess it would
work better if I were to use the correct value components! :) I am
glad you posted the results to the group. I learn so much from
reading your messages to others and maybe this will help someone
else. The funny thing is that the 47K resistor was still sitting on
the desk that I use for building. Hmmmm extra parts! Guess you
can't be too careful, When I sorted out the parts for each section I
checked with my DVM. Also as I grab each resistor to install it, I
check again with the DVM and still got it wrong. Guess I was
looking, but not looking! :) Glad and happy that this was the only
problem and it is now working.
After I sent it off, I decided to get back on that horse and so I
started my second 2N2! I'm building one for each of my sons. I
really like the way it is looking. Was hoping to finish it and have
it work before Jim found out what was up with Ole #1. I have
finished the receiver, but haven't tested it at all. I don't have a
second 20K ten turn pot. I feel good though! Will let you all know.
I do have a couple suggestions from a beginner. These were things
suggested here by the group, that really helped me.
1) First thing, I sorted out the parts for each section and put them
into a baggie and marked it with the sections name. Just pour each
bag in a pie tin when your ready to build it. When the section is
done, all the parts should be gone. (Hmmm, that includes 47K
resistors, Tom) oops :)
2) Craig's (AA0ZZ) parts layout REALLY helped me out. Took a lot of
the fear about "will things fit" out of my building sessions. That
layout had to be a lot of work. I appreciate it, thanks Craig!
3) Of course, don't be afraid to ask questions. This may seem
obvious, but I know someone out there is nervious about posting a
question. None of us want to look stupid. But we are all here to
learn and have fun, right!?
Several of you tried to help me figure out the problem. Jim, John,
Dennis, Pat and others. Thanks! With time and experience, it's
easier to SEE what I'm looking at. Heck, Jim spotted my mistake
before the bubble wrap hit the floor and I looked at it for 3 weeks.
As far as any fear of the MOJO escaping in shipment of the rig. No
fears guys! I think having Jim's hands on it will give it "MEGA
MOJO" How lucky could a guy get, the hands of the master!
Seriously, I know how busy we are keeping Jim and I appreciate his
time! (wait till you guys hear this baby play)
Well, enough rambling with out much helpful content. So, good luck
to all you guys. I know there is a lot of talent here. Glad to be a
part!
72/73
Happy building!
Tom
N0DSP
** Looking forward to the "2N2 Rendezvous"
|
1373|1372|2002-01-02 23:08:26|Lee Mairs|Re: 2N2-40 x 2 status...|> As far as any fear of the MOJO escaping in shipment of the rig. No
> fears guys! I think having Jim's hands on it will give it "MEGA
> MOJO"...
Hmmnn... Mega Mojo? Didn't think of that. Now where is that empty UPS
box...
73 de Lee
km4yy
They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who
dream only by night .
--Edgar Allen Poe
Gang,
I am still trying to get my transmitter working. I have removed/checked/replaced
most of the components around T11 / T12 / Q15 but I am still not able to get a
good signal at the base of Q15. (I even removed and rewound T12.) Backing up,
when T12-2 is not grounded, I see the nice composite signal at T12-1, but as soon
as I ground T12-2, the signal at T12-1 disappears completely.
Turning TC7 has absolutely no effect when observing the tiny, spikey/noisey
signal at the base of Q15. I have also replaced C48 and TC7. I have changed
C48 to 330 pf to see if it is missing at the low end, with no success.
I then made a SPICE model of the Cascode RF Amp, to see if the DC bias around
Q15 agreed with my measurements. It appears that .8v at the base of Q15 is OK.
Now, the amazing part is that I DO see a nice sine wave at Pot 4 wiper.
I can peak it with TC8, and get up to 150 mv at the wiper. Not enough, but at
least it is a nice sine wave at 7 MHz.. Obviously some of the mixed signal made it
through and is amplified by the Cascode RF Amp.
What am I missing?
72,
- Craig, AAØZZ
|
1375|1375|2002-01-03 09:35:47|Siegrist, David|Lurking and Listening...|Hello folks,
Just a note that I have been following the reciever
sensitivity discussion closely. Finally had some
time over the holiday to build some more, and have
gotten through the Product Detector, and following
LO. I have needed to inject about 100mv at the
antenna input to trace through the mixer etc.
I will be using the notes here and taking some
measurements to find out where I am loosing my
signal sensitivity.
I'll report back what I discover. I do enjoy the
information and civil discussions here greatly.
I have also been doing PSpice simulations of
each section before I build it...and now have come
up to a wall.
* Does anyone have a spice model of a crystal?
The shareware Microsim version does not, and so I will
be running WinSpice, building the deck by hand. I poked
around the web but did not find a model simple enough
for my needs.
Any help would be appreciated.
dave /nt1u
David Siegrist
Intel Corp.
334 South St. SHR1-S30
Shrewsbury, Ma 01545
|
1376|1375|2002-01-03 10:23:52|Kevin M.|Re: Lurking and Listening...|Hello Dave.
Here is one I got from the Circuitmaker 2000 .pdf.
Just change the appropriate values.
the circuit follows the text.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
Following is an example of a generic subcircuit for a crystal
which can be used as a template for creating other crystals:
---------------Begin
*XCRYSTAL:Crystal Subcircuit Parameters
*XCRYSTAL:FREQ:|Fundamental frequency [1,]|1MEG
*XCRYSTAL:RS:|Series resistance [1,]|750
*XCRYSTAL:CX:|Parallel capacitance [0,]|13pf
*XCRYSTAL:Q:|Quality Factor [10,1000]|1000
*{FREQ=1Meg RS=750 C=13pf Q=1000}
*Generic 1MHz Crystal:crystal pkg:XTAL1 1,2
.SUBCKT XCRYSTAL 1 2
LS 1 2 {((Q*RS)/(6.2831852*FREQ))} IC=0.5M
CS 2 3 {(1/(Q*6.2831852*FREQ*RS))}
RS 3 4 {RS}
CX 1 4 {CX}
.ENDS XCRYSTAL
*alias:XCRYSTAL {FREQ=2E6 RS=250} pkg:XTAL1 1,2
.PARAM A2.000MHZ
----------------END
2 Cs 3
___()()()__||___/\/\/\__|
1 | Ls || Rs | 4
----| Cx |----
|__________||___________|
||
Hope this helps.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Siegrist, David" <david.siegrist@intel.com>
> * Does anyone have a spice model of a crystal?
>
> The shareware Microsim version does not, and so I will
> be running WinSpice, building the deck by hand. I poked
> around the web but did not find a model simple enough
> for my needs.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> dave /nt1u
At 10:12 PM 1/2/02 -0600, Craig, AAØZZ wrote:
>Gang,
>
>I am still trying to get my transmitter working. I have
>removed/checked/replaced
>most of the components around T11 / T12 / Q15 but I am still not able to get a
>good signal at the base of Q15. (I even removed and rewound
>T12.) Backing up,
>when T12-2 is not grounded, I see the nice composite signal at T12-1, but
>as soon
>as I ground T12-2, the signal at T12-1 disappears completely.
What are you seeing for signal on pin 4 of T12 with pin 2
grounded? There ought to be a decent signal there without
the remaining circuitry connected.
>Turning TC7 has absolutely no effect when observing the tiny, spikey/noisey
>signal at the base of Q15. I have also replaced C48 and TC7. I have
>changed
>C48 to 330 pf to see if it is missing at the low end, with no success.
>
>I then made a SPICE model of the Cascode RF Amp, to see if the DC bias around
>Q15 agreed with my measurements. It appears that .8v at the base of Q15
>is OK.
Whoa! The bias on the base of Q15 ought to be over 2 volts. About
2.3 actually if the bias resistors are correct, and the Tx line
is 13 volts. What is the DC bias on Q16? It should be half of the
Tx line.
>Now, the amazing part is that I DO see a nice sine wave at Pot 4 wiper.
>I can peak it with TC8, and get up to 150 mv at the wiper. Not enough, but at
>least it is a nice sine wave at 7 MHz.. Obviously some of the mixed
>signal made it
>through and is amplified by the Cascode RF Amp.
I'd suggest driving the primary of T12 directly with a signal generator
if you have one and make sure the TC7, C49, C48 capacitors give
you a good pair of peaks on the base of Q15. When you have that working,
go back to letting the DBM do the driving and see what happens.
>What am I missing?
Don't know for sure, but the base bias on Q15 sure isn't correct according
to my calculations. At 0.8 volts on the base, hardly any collector
current is flowing, so the gain is probably very low.
72 and let us know what you find,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 06:38 AM 1/3/02 -0800, David Siegrist wrote:
> Hello folks,
> Just a note that I have been following the reciever
> sensitivity discussion closely. Finally had some
> time over the holiday to build some more, and have
> gotten through the Product Detector, and following
> LO. I have needed to inject about 100mv at the
> antenna input to trace through the mixer etc.
> I will be using the notes here and taking some
> measurements to find out where I am loosing my
> signal sensitivity.
>
> I'll report back what I discover. I do enjoy the
> information and civil discussions here greatly.
Dave, please do that so we can all learn a bit more.
> I have also been doing PSpice simulations of
> each section before I build it...and now have come
> up to a wall.
>
> * Does anyone have a spice model of a crystal?
Here is one generated by EWB for a 5 MHz crystal. You can
change the parameters for the particular crystal that you
may be trying to simulate.
--------------------------------Cut here---------------------------
************************ ************************
* Interactive Image Technologies *
* *
* This File was created by: *
* Electronics Workbench to SPICE netlist *
* conversion DLL *
* *
* Thu Jan 03 13:49:51 2002 *
**************************************************
* Crystal(s)
*
XCRYST_Y1 OPEN_1 OPEN_2 cryst_ecliptek_HC_49_U_5MHz
Roc_OPEN_1 OPEN_1 0 1Tohm
Roc_OPEN_2 OPEN_2 0 1Tohm
* Misc
.SUBCKT cryst_ecliptek_HC_49_U_5MHz 1 2
L0 1 3 80m
C0 3 4 13f
R0 4 2 50
C1 1 2 4.5p
.ENDS
.END
------------------------------Cut here---------------------------
In this model, L0 is the motional inductance, usually called
Lm, C0 is the motional capacitance, usually called Cm, R0
is the equivalent series resistance, usually called Rs, and
C1 is the holder capacitance, usually called Co.
> The shareware Microsim version does not, and so I will
> be running WinSpice, building the deck by hand.
Nothing wrong with that. You learn more of the basics that
way, but it is time consuming.
> I poked
> around the web but did not find a model simple enough
> for my needs.
Hope this one will be useful to you.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....I have the parameters for many of the computer crystals
that I've used in my designs, if you need those too.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim and gang,
Continuing our discussion of my transmitter problem:
>> I see the nice composite signal at T12-1, but as soon
>>as I ground T12-2, the signal at T12-1 disappears completely.
>What are you seeing for signal on pin 4 of T12 with pin 2
>grounded? There ought to be a decent signal there without
>the remaining circuitry connected.
I just took a picture posted in the photo section. It is with T12-2
grounded and T12-4 open. Basically it is a spike every 4.9 MHz with
damped sine waves between. Peak amplitude is about 300 mv. This is
with the scope probe 1t X10. It looks different if the probe is at
X1. I assume this one is more accurate with less probe loading.
Signal at T12-1 is even smaller, of course.
The second photo is at T12-1 with T12-2 floating. Amplitude is just
over 1v. (Again, probe at X10.) I think this shows I am getting
good VFO and TX LO drive.
>>I then made a SPICE model of the Cascode RF Amp, to see if the DC
>>bias around Q15 agreed with my measurements. It appears that .8v
>>at the base of Q15 is OK.
>Whoa! The bias on the base of Q15 ought to be over 2 volts. About
>2.3 actually if the bias resistors are correct, and the Tx line
>is 13 volts. What is the DC bias on Q16? It should be half of the
>Tx line.
I am really missing something here. I verified this measurement,
and I am getting .8v at the base of Q15 (with 11.2v TX source).
I also verified it in CircuitMaker SPICE. Note that I did not
include TC7 , C49 or C50 in the SPICE model, since they can't
effect the DC bias anyway. The only way I can get the base up
to 2v (in SPICE model) is to increase R48 from 100 up to 10K.
Then the base of Q16 also goes from .77v up to 4.9v.
>>Now, the amazing part is that I DO see a nice sine wave at Pot 4
>>wiper. I can peak it with TC8, and get up to 150 mv at the wiper.
>>Not enough, but at least it is a nice sine wave at 7 MHz..
>>Obviously some of the mixed signal made it through and is
>>amplified by the Cascode RF Amp.
>I'd suggest driving the primary of T12 directly with a signal generator
>if you have one and make sure the TC7, C49, C48 capacitors give
>you a good pair of peaks on the base of Q15. When you have that working,
>go back to letting the DBM do the driving and see what happens.
I don't have a good enough signal generator right now; I am designing
one right now using a PIC processor to drive an AD9832 DDS chip. This
signal generator project has been on the back burner but I really do need
it.
>>What am I missing?
>Don't know for sure, but the base bias on Q15 sure isn't correct according
>to my calculations. At 0.8 volts on the base, hardly any collector
>current is flowing, so the gain is probably very low.
I'm really confused here....
>72 and let us know what you find,
>Jim, K8IQY
72 from a very confused....
- Craig, AAOZZ
Just one more quick follow-up on this.
I just tried changing R48 to 10K. It does bring the measured bias at
the base of Q15 up to about 2v. Unfortunately, the output at the wiper of
Pot 4 is completely gone now. Tweaking TC7 or TC8 did not help at all.
I changed R48 back to 100 ohms.
72,
Craig, AAØZZ
|
1383|1375|2002-01-04 15:34:04|Craig Johnson|Re: Lurking and Listening...|Dave, Jim, gang,
Just a couple of comments about SPICE simulation of the 2N2-40 oscillators.
Dave said:
>> I have also been doing PSpice simulations of
>> each section before I build it...and now have come
>> up to a wall.
>>
>> * Does anyone have a spice model of a crystal?
Jim said:
>Here is one generated by EWB for a 5 MHz crystal. You can
>change the parameters for the particular crystal that you
>may be trying to simulate.
>
>--------------------------------Cut here---------------------------
>.SUBCKT cryst_ecliptek_HC_49_U_5MHz 1 2
>L0 1 3 80m
>C0 3 4 13f
>R0 4 2 50
>C1 1 2 4.5p
>.ENDS
>
>--------------------------------End Cut ---------------------------
>
>Hope this one will be useful to you.
>
>72 and GL,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
I also have been playing around with SPICE models of the 2N2-40
oscillators. Jim helped me A LOT on this about a year ago.
1) Be careful with crystal C0 value. It is 13f and NOT 13F !
13f is 13 femtoFarads (or .013pF, or 13x10^-15 F).
2) Be careful when modeling the inductors and capacitors that
"pull" the crystals. I.e., L7 and TC6 in the TX LO, and
L3 and TC5 in the RX LO. The oscillator will oscillate nicely
with the model that Jim gave if the crystal is tied directly to ground.
However, it will oscillate at the second harmonic if the pulling elements
are added directly between the "crystal" and ground. Try putting
a resistor around L3 (or L7). Something like 27K. (This is a "damper"
to make the inductors realistic.) I think I got this hint from a book, but
it may have been from Jim. It works.
3) You have to add a "big" resistor (something like 10G) between
the bottom of the "crystal" and the pulling inductor (TC7 or TC5)
to ground. SPICE wants some kind of path to ground here, even if
no measurable current will flow through it.
Have fun with the SPICE modeling. It is fascinating. Maybe we can
share models. I am particularly interested in the impedance matching
between sections; I have difficulty modeling the transformers.
(I am using CircuitMaker 2000.)
72,
- Craig, AAOZZ
At 08:16 PM 1/3/02 -0600, Craig, AAOZZ wrote:
>Jim and gang,
>
>Continuing our discussion of my transmitter problem:
>-snip-
> >>I then made a SPICE model of the Cascode RF Amp, to see if the DC
> >>bias around Q15 agreed with my measurements. It appears that .8v
> >>at the base of Q15 is OK.
>
> >Whoa! The bias on the base of Q15 ought to be over 2 volts. About
> >2.3 actually if the bias resistors are correct, and the Tx line
> >is 13 volts. What is the DC bias on Q16? It should be half of the
> >Tx line.
>
>I am really missing something here. I verified this measurement,
>and I am getting .8v at the base of Q15 (with 11.2v TX source).
I just measured my rig with the scope looking at the base of Q15.
I've got a Tx line voltage of 12 volts, and am seeing 2.1 volts
on the base. This is very close to what you get if you compute
the base bias using a 10K from the Tx line to the base, and a
2.2K from the base to ground. 0.8 volts on the base of Q15 is
way too low!!
>
>I also verified it in CircuitMaker SPICE. Note that I did not
>include TC7 , C49 or C50 in the SPICE model, since they can't
>effect the DC bias anyway. The only way I can get the base up
>to 2v (in SPICE model) is to increase R40 from 100 up to 10K.
>Then the base of Q16 also goes from .77v up to 4.9v.
Gee, are we looking at the same circuit? On the latest schematic,
the base bias resistors on Q15 are a 10K, R47 and a 2.2K, R46.
The emitter resistor on Q15 is 100 ohms, R48. On Q16, the base
bias resistors are 10K, R50 and 10K, R49. The emitter of Q16
goes to the collector of Q15, so there isn't any emitter resistor
on Q16.
While I haven't looked at the EWB model for this circutry in quite
sometime, (I'll do that later) I can't imagine 0.8 volts on the
base of Q15 with those component values. The base of Q16 ought to
be very near 1/2 of the Tx voltage.
I don't know where R40 is to which you referred.
-snip-
> >>What am I missing?
>
> >Don't know for sure, but the base bias on Q15 sure isn't correct according
> >to my calculations. At 0.8 volts on the base, hardly any collector
> >current is flowing, so the gain is probably very low.
>
>I'm really confused here....
Me too, as you have made references to part values that I can't find
on my schematics. I'm going to find the Cascode model that I did
on EWB and run the DC analysis. I'll bet the base bias on Q15 is
very near 2.1 volts with Tx set for 12 volts.
I've also taken an updated set of scope photos for the waveforms at
T12-1 and the base of Q15. The provious ones that I posted on Yahoo
were not very good, as there was some aliasing going on in the scope
that I didn't catch. The newer ones got rid of that by narrowing
the bandwidth down to 20 MHz, and you can get a better view of
the important waveforms. I'll get those posted later tonight
hopefully. The Yahoo download facility has not been working correctly
the past few nites.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 09:39 PM 1/3/02 -0600, you wrote:
>Just one more quick follow-up on this.
>
>I just tried changing R48 to 10K. It does bring the measured bias at
>the base of Q15 up to about 2v.
Aha.....I'd guess that either Q15 or Q16 is shorted. Probably a
short between the base and emitter of Q15, but it might be a short
in the circuitry too, causing the same effect. That's why the base
of Q15 isn't where the base bias resistors should have it set.
> Unfortunately, the output at the wiper of
>Pot 4 is completely gone now.
That's because there is essentially no gain left, as there isn't
any current flowing in either Q15 or Q16. My guess is that Q15 is
shorted, and is not providing any gain, and Q16 can't produce enough
to get the signal levels on the output you need. That also explains
why the signal on T12-1 is so small, you have a dead short on the
secondary of T12, and that is getting stepped down to primary, where
it looks like an even lower impedance to the poor SBM trying to
drive the primary circuit. Even if the secondary was at 100 ohms,
the value of the Q15 emitter resistor, the primary would look like
about 3.7 ohms due to the turns ratio.
> Tweaking TC7 or TC8 did not help at all.
>I changed R48 back to 100 ohms.
I'd suggest changing Q15 and maybe Q16 too. One of them has to
be bad, or there is a short in the circuitry surrounding Q15.
72 and keep up the good testing and feedback. I think we have
found the problem.
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim and gang,
>Gee, are we looking at the same circuit? On the latest schematic,
>the base bias resistors on Q15 are a 10K, R47 and a 2.2K, R46.
>The emitter resistor on Q15 is 100 ohms, R48. On Q16, the base
>bias resistors are 10K, R50 and 10K, R49. The emitter of Q16
>goes to the collector of Q15, so there isn't any emitter resistor
>on Q16.
>
>While I haven't looked at the EWB model for this circutry in quite
>sometime, (I'll do that later) I can't imagine 0.8 volts on the
>base of Q15 with those component values. The base of Q16 ought to
>be very near 1/2 of the Tx voltage.
>
>I don't know where R40 is to which you referred.
>-snip-
>
>72,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
Very sorry, Jim. Yes we do have a problem with different versions
and I did make a mistake in referring to R40 (should have been R51).
I am using the latest version of the schematics that I can find.
It is your schematic in the files section dated 10/8/2001 - 2N240+Sheet3.pdf
It has R47=10K and R48=2.2K as base bias for Q15. The emitter resistor
for Q15 is R51=100 ohms.
As you said, the base bias resistors for Q16 are R49=10K and R50=10K.
I sure hope this is what is a wrong!
When you verify that the schematic of 10/8/2001 is OK, I will remove
and replace Q15 and Q16.
Thanks a bunch, Jim!
72,
-Craig, AA0ZZ
Jim and gang,
One more small detail for confusion relief:
It was R51, the 100 ohm emitter resistor, that I changed
to 10K to get the base of Q15 up to 2v.
72,
-Craig, AA0ZZ
|
1388|1387|2002-01-04 18:37:43|Craig Johnson|Re: Another 2N2-40 is coming alive! |Jim and gang,
I found it! I had T13-2 connected to the wrong side of R50 (which is also
the base of Q16) instead of directly to TX. This meant the primary of
T13 was connected directly from the base to collector of Q16. Not good.
Yes, it works better in SPICE not too!
I'M VERY SORRY!!!
Will try it on the hardware now.
72,
-Craig, AAØZZ
|
1389|1389|2002-01-04 18:55:02|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|2N2/40+ Tx Cascode Amp static voltages|Gang,
I reran the static (DC) analysis for the Tx cascode amp in
Electronic Workbench. Here are the results.
Q15 Q16
E - 1.32v E - 4.51v
B - 2.03v B - 5.35v
C - 4.51v C - 11.99v
This simulation was with the Tx source at 12 volts. These
are about what I was expecting, and are close to the values
I would measure with a scope on the actual circuitry.
As a reminder, you can't measure these voltages with a DMM when
the circuit is active, as the RF will cause the readings to be
rather inaccurate. It has to be done with a scope, or done by
calculation.
Stay tune, and we'll all find out what is going on in Craig's
rig. I'm still betting on a shorted Q15 transistor!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....anybody not having fun at this point! This is where it
gets really interesting, and the learning is maximized. :-)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
1390|1389|2002-01-04 19:02:51|wb0wao@hotmail.com|Re: 2N2/40+ Tx Cascode Amp static voltages|Yep, even though I have finished my rig, I am following the messages and
still learning! I can actually follow most of the threads and
understand what is going on! This is SO KEWL!!! I have learned more
in the past 6 months than I have in my previous experience as a ham.
72 es keep building!!!
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1391|1381|2002-01-04 19:05:02|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Another 2N2-40 is coming alive!|At 05:15 PM 1/4/02 -0600, Craig, AA0ZZ wrote:
>Jim and gang,
>
>-snip-
>Very sorry, Jim. Yes we do have a problem with different versions
>and I did make a mistake in referring to R40 (should have been R51).
OK, that makes a lot more sense.
>I am using the latest version of the schematics that I can find.
>It is your schematic in the files section dated 10/8/2001 - 2N240+Sheet3.pdf
>It has R47=10K and R48=2.2K as base bias for Q15. The emitter resistor
>for Q15 is R51=100 ohms.
Those are all the correct values.......
>As you said, the base bias resistors for Q16 are R49=10K and R50=10K.
These are also correct.........
>I sure hope this is what is a wrong!
>
>When you verify that the schematic of 10/8/2001 is OK, I will remove
>and replace Q15 and Q16.
The 10/8/2001 schematic is indeed accurate. I've was looking at
a bit later version with different component designators, but the
values are indeed the same. So that schematic is fine to use, as
are the others in that set.
>
>
>Thanks a bunch, Jim!
Go change Q15 and maybe Q16 and that puppy ought to start working
like a dream.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 05:22 PM 1/4/02 -0600, you wrote:
>Jim and gang,
>
>One more small detail for confusion relief:
>
>It was R51, the 100 ohm emitter resistor, that I changed
>to 10K to get the base of Q15 up to 2v.
>
>72,
>-Craig, AA0ZZ
Yes, I figured that out, but thanks for the confirmation.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Gang,
I've finally figured out how to get around the bugs in the Yahoo
photo area, and have not posted 3 sets of photos of oscilloscope
waveforms for you to use.
The first set is for the receiver, and is called "2N240+ Rx
Waveforms1 (-30dBm input)". These waveforms were taken at key point
in the receiver with a -30dBm signal, that's 20 millivolts peak-to-
peak, driving the antenna port. I chose that level because you can
still see something at every point, without overloading the receiver
chain, although, in the IF amplifier we get close.
The next set, called "2N240+ Rx Waveforms2 (2W Tx input)" were taken
with the rig keyed, and driving 2 watts into a 50 ohm dummy. It's
represents what is going on in the receiver when it is listening to
it's own transmit signal, and generating the sidetone. One of the
things that you'll notice is the IF amplifier distortion, especially
on the collector of Q7 under these conditions. If you think about it
though, that's a whopping big signal for a rig to handle, especially
without any kind of AGC circuitry to manage the upstream signal
levels.
The third set is of the transmit chain, and is called "2N240+ Tx
section o'scope waveforms". This set shows the signal generation
through the Tx section, at key points.
If you don't have an oscilloscope, these pictures aren't of much use
to you in building or trouble-shooting your rig. But they are
interesting as a learning tool. If you have any questions about any
of these, post them to the group, and I'll try to supply an answer.
72 and enjoy,
Jim, K8IQY
|
1394|1394|2002-01-04 21:58:03|John Wagner|photo space|Gang,
We're approaching our limit of photo space on the yahoo site. (24 of 30
meg allowed). Probably be a good time to go through your folders and
remove anything you don't think is current or useful. Not a crisis, but
I want to make sure there is space available for folks to upload
pictures for troubleshooting. If you have pictures of your rig completed
then you should probably move those to a public website and drop a link
in the bookmarks section.
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 02:38 AM 1/5/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>I've finally figured out how to get around the bugs in the Yahoo
>photo area, and have not posted 3 sets of photos of oscilloscope
>waveforms for you to use.
Ooops.....make that "have now posted"......
Sorry for the confusion. Typing too fast and not reading well.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I now have a printed set and am heading over to the workbench to goto
work! Wow, what a great thing to do - thanks so much Jim.
73 de John, N1QO
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> At 02:38 AM 1/5/02 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Gang,
> >
> >I've finally figured out how to get around the bugs in the Yahoo
> >photo area, and have not posted 3 sets of photos of oscilloscope
> >waveforms for you to use.
>
> Ooops.....make that "have now posted"......
>
> Sorry for the confusion. Typing too fast and not reading well.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comOK, questions;
1. Why is the signal at the D25/D26 junction larger then the ant input?
Mine isn't.
2. I think I've got a problem at the collector of Q5, the signal isn't
any larger. Can't figure out why though, parts look good, good solder
connections, correct values. Here is a picture of the actual radio at
that point;
http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/vbw-filter.jpg - see
anything obvious? Any more tests/values I can give?
That's all I have for now, hopefully have some time tomorrow to do some
more fiddling.
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
John Wagner wrote:
>
> I now have a printed set and am heading over to the workbench to goto
> work! Wow, what a great thing to do - thanks so much Jim.
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
>
> "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> >
> > At 02:38 AM 1/5/02 +0000, you wrote:
> >
> > >Gang,
> > >
> > >I've finally figured out how to get around the bugs in the Yahoo
> > >photo area, and have not posted 3 sets of photos of oscilloscope
> > >waveforms for you to use.
> >
> > Ooops.....make that "have now posted"......
> >
> > Sorry for the confusion. Typing too fast and not reading well.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAs a current builder not yet finished, I suggest that the o'scope photos and
N1QO's close up photos NOT be removed!
73 de Lee
km4yy
Too may freaks, not enough circuses.
--From a bumpersticker
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 10:00 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] photo space
> Gang,
>
> We're approaching our limit of photo space on the yahoo site. (24 of 30
> meg allowed). Probably be a good time to go through your folders and
> remove anything you don't think is current or useful. Not a crisis, but
> I want to make sure there is space available for folks to upload
> pictures for troubleshooting. If you have pictures of your rig completed
> then you should probably move those to a public website and drop a link
> in the bookmarks section.
>
> Thanks es 73,
>
> John, N1QO
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I concur - the N1QO close-ups are on my qsl.net site anyway. Jim's
o'scope photos are invaluable. ;)
Don't want to scare anyone off - but if there is stuff up there that
doesn't need to be, let's reclaim the space.
73,
John, N1QO
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> As a current builder not yet finished, I suggest that the o'scope photos and
> N1QO's close up photos NOT be removed!
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
> Too may freaks, not enough circuses.
> --From a bumpersticker
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 10:00 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] photo space
>
> > Gang,
> >
> > We're approaching our limit of photo space on the yahoo site. (24 of 30
> > meg allowed). Probably be a good time to go through your folders and
> > remove anything you don't think is current or useful. Not a crisis, but
> > I want to make sure there is space available for folks to upload
> > pictures for troubleshooting. If you have pictures of your rig completed
> > then you should probably move those to a public website and drop a link
> > in the bookmarks section.
> >
> > Thanks es 73,
> >
> > John, N1QO
> > --
> > John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> > Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGang,
OK. The transmitter works! I actually tore out a lot of the components
around Q15 and Q16 and reworked the layout because of the error I had.
After that, I was able to peak TC7 and TC8. Looking at the output at the
antenna terminal, I can adjust Pot 4 for a nice solid 28v p-p output.
(The reason my SPICE model agreed with my circuit is because I had the
same problem in both.)
That's the good news. Now I still have a couple of issues to wrestle with.
1) I think it is chirping a bit. Doesn't sound like a nice, clean tone on the
attack.
2) I need to fix my keyer. It doesn't seem to like to pull the 11v to ground
to key the transmitter. The homebrew keyer just has a little 2N2222 in the
keying circuit also, and somehow it is not able to pull it all the way down.
The keyer works fine in my big rig. I can hear it making noise in the 2N2-40
as it "tries" to pull it but it doesn't make it . Maybe need a new battery in the
keyer. When I key the 2N2-40 directly with a shorted plug in the key jack it
does transmit.
Any suggestions about how to attack the chirp problem?
72,
Craig, AAØZZ
|
1401|1401|2002-01-05 00:09:39|Craig Johnson|Keying problem|Gang,
I had an error in my last post. I see that the keyer doesn't have
to pull the 11v to ground, but just 5.2v (RX voltage).
Will have to find out why it can't pull that down.
72,
Craig, AAØZZ
|
1402|1393|2002-01-05 07:15:15|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Photo albums with Rx and Tx waveforms|At 11:13 PM 1/4/02 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>OK, questions;
>
>1. Why is the signal at the D25/D26 junction larger then the ant input?
>Mine isn't.
It is larger at D25/D26 only when the input signal is low enough
to not saturate those two diodes, like when driving it with a
signal generator at -30dBm or lower. When the rig is transmitting,
and that signal becomes the Rx input signal, the diodes conduct
and hold the voltage between TC9 and L11 to about 1.3 volts p-p.
The reason the voltage is stepped up in the middle of that piece of
circuitry is because it is series resonant, and the ends are held
at a low impedance, about 50 ohms on the antenna side, and the same
on the port "B" side with the RF gain all the way up. If you compute
the reactance of TC9 and L11 at 7.05 MHz, you find the value to be
about 530 ohms. Now, the current through the driving impedance and
terminating impedace is the same, and those impedances are 50 ohms,
but the interior impedance of the circuit is roughly ten times that,
so with the same current going through the capacitor and inductor,
the voltage must be 10 times larger than across the input and output
impedances. Ohms law..... E = I x R, where the I is fixed, and the
R values, (impedances actually) control the voltage levels. The actual
voltages don't actually get to 10 times those across the input and
output impedances due to losses, but they indeed do go up substantually,
and that's how such a simple circuit can protect the input of the receiver.
With large signal levels, the diodes conduct, holding the interior voltages
to 1.3 volts p-p. Therefore the output voltage at port "B" is much
lower than the driving voltage on the antenna end. When the diodes
conduct, they also effectively ground the interior end of TC9, and
it becomes part of the capacitance to ground of the first capacitor
in the transmit low pass filter. That's why the first capacitor in
the low pass filter is 330pF, and the output one is 430pF. The other
missing part of the first capacitor is the collector capacitance of
the 3 final transistors. So, TC9, and the 3 collector capacitances
make up almost 100pF of capacitance.
And you were looking for a simple answer weren't you! :-)
>2. I think I've got a problem at the collector of Q5, the signal isn't
>any larger. Can't figure out why though, parts look good, good solder
>connections, correct values.
Well it should be significantly larger than the input if everything
is built correctly and working right. I'll look at your photos
and see if I can spot anything wrong there.
> Here is a picture of the actual radio at
>that point; http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/vbw-filter.jpg - see
>anything obvious? Any more tests/values I can give?
Did you remember to put the RF bypass capacitor on the base of
Q5? The circuit needs that, otherwise you have lots of negative
feedback, and the stage won't produce much gain. Even thought
the diode to ground is conducting, it has a fairly high impedance
and RF voltage can be developed across it.
>That's all I have for now, hopefully have some time tomorrow to do some
>more fiddling.
Sounds like a good plan.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Craig,
Is the chirping being heard in another reciever or does your sidetone
sound chirpy? A number of us have been wresting with a bit of a loud
sidetone for sometime. Jim has a new mute circuit up on the Yahoo site,
but I haven't had a chance to try it.
73,
John, N1QO
Craig Johnson wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> OK. The transmitter works! I actually tore out a lot of the components
> around Q15 and Q16 and reworked the layout because of the error I had.
> After that, I was able to peak TC7 and TC8. Looking at the output at the
> antenna terminal, I can adjust Pot 4 for a nice solid 28v p-p output.
>
> (The reason my SPICE model agreed with my circuit is because I had the
> same problem in both.)
>
> That's the good news. Now I still have a couple of issues to wrestle with.
>
> 1) I think it is chirping a bit. Doesn't sound like a nice, clean tone on the
> attack.
>
> 2) I need to fix my keyer. It doesn't seem to like to pull the 11v to ground
> to key the transmitter. The homebrew keyer just has a little 2N2222 in the
> keying circuit also, and somehow it is not able to pull it all the way down.
> The keyer works fine in my big rig. I can hear it making noise in the 2N2-40
> as it "tries" to pull it but it doesn't make it . Maybe need a new battery in the
> keyer. When I key the 2N2-40 directly with a shorted plug in the key jack it
> does transmit.
>
> Any suggestions about how to attack the chirp problem?
>
> 72,
> Craig, AAØZZ
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGang,
There was a problem with the formatting of the original J176 JFET Rx
Mute document. I redid it and have updated the Yahoo site with a
better PDF file, one that will fit everything on one page, and not
spill over to 4 pages as the original did. Thanks to Dov for finding
that problem. Everything should work as expected now.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
1405|1405|2002-01-05 14:00:18|Craig Johnson|Re: It works! |John and group,
>Is the chirping being heard in another reciever or does your sidetone
>sound chirpy? A number of us have been wresting with a bit of a loud
>sidetone for sometime. Jim has a new mute circuit up on the Yahoo site,
>but I haven't had a chance to try it.
>
>73,
>John, N1QO
I observed the chirp while transmitting into a dummy load and listening
with another receiver.
I am thinking that the two "problems" that I reported may be related.
It is possible that my keyer problem is not giving me a clear indication
of what the rig is really doing. I am going to pursue the keyer problem
first.
72,
- Craig, AAOZZ
Hi Jim,
I wasn't able to get the amount of time in that I wanted but here's a
summary of several efforts I've made to get this up to par with the rest
on the receive level.
Your receiver traces are great. From looking at these I think we're very
close. Not as much gain as your traces but close. Strange through I
still get the oscillations when the both the Rx LO and VFO are turned
off. (ground the base to shut off). Seems just about everything I
attempt doesn't keep it from oscillating or the gain goes way down. I've
reoriented T8 thinking it was coupling with something, rewound it
thinking something wrong with the windings, and made sure the phasing
wasn't the issue by changing the connection from 2-3 to 2-4. I'm
assuming the phasing dots would be on terminal 1 and 3 because when the
other way the amp has no output. I did find that I was one turn short on
T7 secondary while looking things over so it's been rewound.
The amp doesn't oscillate if C25 is removed but like you say the gain is
needed. I make up 660 pF by using two 330 pF. If I use one capacitor
for 330 pF it still oscillates but I can see a reduction in signal
probably proportional to gain loss. The period of the oscillation also
gets longer with the added 330 pF.
I got some measurement values and picture for you to help explain the
over all situation.
Resister values measured with an ohmmeter:
R36 - 50, R14 - 4.7K, R23 - 46.6K, R24 - 1.0K, R37 - 52, R25 - 328, R34
- 32.5
I increased R24 to 1.5K but the gain goes way down this also happens
with lowering R23 to 39K. Either case no oscillation.
Capacitors I've not measure with AADE except for C25 but I did try
adding another to the bypass capacitors just to see if the oscillations
went away and they didn't.
Voltages VCC 12.2:
Q6 e=.266, b=.925, e=6.16; Q7 e=5.59, b=6.16, e=11.59 using stated
resister values above.
Signal levels (PP):
Point "C" - 20 mV (4.9155)
Across R38 - 40 mV
T7-1 - 1mV ~
T8 2-3 - .9 V but with oscillation (VFO on, Rx LO Off)
These levels are all approximate since I don't have a real stable
oscillator (MFJ 259B). If I shut off the VFO the signal at T8 2-3 cleans
up (no input signal to the IF amp) but still has the nice sine wave
which goes away if C25 is removed. I've also done similar things using
the 7.040 signal. This produces much the same signals as what you have
in your trace pictures up to the output of the IF amp. I have pictures
of the o-scope that I can send you. Not sure we need to take up the
space on the groups site.
|
1407|1393|2002-01-06 11:43:59|John Wagner|Re: Photo albums with Rx and Tx waveforms|"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> At 11:13 PM 1/4/02 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>
> >OK, questions;
> >
> >1. Why is the signal at the D25/D26 junction larger then the ant input?
> >Mine isn't.
>
> It is larger at D25/D26 only when the input signal is low enough
> to not saturate those two diodes, like when driving it with a
Ah - I get it. I'm now driving the rig with a sig at 20mV at the ant,
and it is indeed larger.
Thanks for the great explanation, a real gem!
> >2. I think I've got a problem at the collector of Q5, the signal isn't
> >any larger. Can't figure out why though, parts look good, good solder
> >connections, correct values.
>
> Well it should be significantly larger than the input if everything
> is built correctly and working right. I'll look at your photos
> and see if I can spot anything wrong there.
Turns out there wasn't anything wrong there. The only thing I was seeing
there was the VFO, nothing was getting through from the DBM...
The problem was in the RF Amp... well sort of.
I was hampered by the fact that I didn't have a x1 o'scope probe, at
least I thought I didn't. While cleaning up my basement yesterday I came
a cross an old (real old actually) test lead that had a bnc on one end a
two aligator clips on the other. Not a "proper" oscope probe, but I
figured I'd try it. It worked well enough on the calibrator on the
scope, so I gave it a shot.
Adjusted the heathkit RF generator down to 20mV on the ant input and
traced the signal. Things got bad just after the Rx input filter. I also
didn't like what I was seeing at the tap point of T6, which was
essentially nothing. I clipped the probe to the tap point of T6 and
started tuning the varicaps, starting at TC9, wow, much better! Then
ontop TC1 and TC2 and things really perked up.
So I think some of my problem was the fact that I didn't have TC9 tuned
properly. I had done it by ear, but apparently not correctly.
Another problem I have is the speaker I'm using appears not be a good
fit. Using headphones I can pretty much hear anything that's there to be
heard.
Phew!
Also, I'm going to borrow a "real" (if you will) x1 probe from a friend
on Tues. I plan on taking some o'scope pics and uploading them for
comaparison wiht Jim's.
73 de John, N1QO
> Sounds like a good plan.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJohn,
A while back you promised a complete set of the
very good , straight on digital cam pictures you started..
We're waiting....
i like the layout you worked up..
Wes
|
1409|1408|2002-01-06 12:05:18|John Wagner|Re: N1QO PIC||
1410|1408|2002-01-06 12:23:38|Wes Clopton|Re: N1QO PIC||
1411|1408|2002-01-06 14:19:36|John Wagner|Re: N1QO PIC|Thanks Wes. My friend and co-worker Mike who took the pictures really
liked the radio. He's an ex-Navy comm guy so he got a charge out of it.
I'm working on getting him interested in ham radio. ;)
FWIW, I didn't put the photos on the Yahoo site 'cause they were so big
and would consume a lot of our space. It would be nice if Yahoo gave us
a 100+ meg, but it's hard to complain when they give us so much already
for free!
73,
John, N1QO
Wes Clopton wrote:
>
> Wow, your right John....very good pictures
> Since that package isnt in the groups photo file I hope everyone
> follows this thread...
>
> Thanks Wes
>
> At 12:07 PM 1/6/02 -0500, you wrote:
> >Hi Wes,
> >
> >They've been up for some time now, see this message;
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/message/1199
> >
> >http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/closeup.html - is the URL for shots.
> >Hope they're helpful.
> >
> >73 de John, N1QO
> >
> >Wes Clopton wrote:
> > >
> > > John,
> > > A while back you promised a complete set of the
> > > very good , straight on digital cam pictures you started..
> > > We're waiting....
> > >
> > > i like the layout you worked up..
> > >
> > > Wes
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >--
> >John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> >Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comKen and gang,
I was just starting the antenna input section and had a question
about C63, C64, and C65. They are 330pF, 820pF, 430pF respectively
on the new schematic. They are given as Silver Mica. Where they
included in the caps kit?
I have a 430pF SM but can't seem to fine the others.
Thanks.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|
1413|1413|2002-01-06 17:30:06|Ken Mitchell|Pictures in the File area|Jim,
All,
I hope the moderator doesn't mind me creating a folder for pictures.
Seems there's a 20MB area there and only .5MB being used. Since our
pictures are files anyway there's no reason we can't use some of this
area for pictures. I created a directory called 2n240 Pictures and then
another directory with my call for the pictures I'm leaving for Jim to
see. If after he sees them the moderator wants me to delete that's fine.
Otherwise this could be a place for others to put a few more pictures
until the moderator wants to scale the pictures area back.
Jim, I thought these pictures would be helpful in understanding the
oscillation issue I'm experiencing. I can't put the trace scale on the
picture as I'm taking them with a Kenwood VC-H1. I'm able to get a small
.jpg file that you can see in this directory. Channel 1 is the signal on
the antenna at 20mV (direct clip lead probe). The scale on the output
(Channel 2, 10X probe) is .2v (I think but might need to setup the test
again to check) period was either .1 or .05.
Hope this will help us understand the issue better.
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
|
1414|1414|2002-01-06 17:32:22|n3knz|Parts On Order|I drew my layout on a board and punched a few pads. I have been
working on a list of parts and sources. I finalized my lists and
place my orders for parts today! I have several other projects going
but figure I will at least start on the first few steps. I am
learning alot just by reading some of the posts on here.
Thanks, N3KNZ - John Gbur
|
1415|1400|2002-01-06 18:25:32|Craig Johnson|Re: It works!|Gang,
OK. It all works now! I worked on the connections to/within my keyer
and got it working OK with the rig now.
The cause of the chirp appears to be just a power supply that was not
up to the task. The power supply is rated to put out .5 amp at 12v, and
in transmit mode my rig is drawing about 350 ma, so I thought I had enough
head room. Apparently not, because when I hook it up to a "big battery",
I have a nice sounding CW note. It is a "switching" power supply that must
be a little slow developing full power. Something to watch out for!
Thanks for all the help, guys. This has been a fantastic learning experience
for me. It sure is fun to see it working.
I will try to be on the air at about 8:00 tonight, somewhere around 7040.
I'll talk to anyone/everyone who wants to chat.
I have a picture posted (for a while) in the photo section.
72,
Craig, AAØZZ
|
1416|279|2002-01-06 19:29:05|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Caps Kit|At 09:21 PM 1/6/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Ken and gang,
>I was just starting the antenna input section and had a question
>about C63, C64, and C65. They are 330pF, 820pF, 430pF respectively
>on the new schematic. They are given as Silver Mica. Where they
>included in the caps kit?
>I have a 430pF SM but can't seem to fine the others.
>Thanks.
>Kevin, KC8SFJ
Kevin,
Good NPO or polystyrene types will work also. SM is preferred
for low loss, but the other two type are also very low loss
too. The values aren't all that critical either; there was some
leeway in the design.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
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>
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>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 05:25 PM 1/6/02 -0600, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>OK. It all works now! I worked on the connections to/within my keyer
>and got it working OK with the rig now.
>
>The cause of the chirp appears to be just a power supply that was not
>up to the task. The power supply is rated to put out .5 amp at 12v, and
>in transmit mode my rig is drawing about 350 ma, so I thought I had enough
>head room. Apparently not, because when I hook it up to a "big battery",
>I have a nice sounding CW note. It is a "switching" power supply that must
>be a little slow developing full power. Something to watch out for!
>
>Thanks for all the help, guys. This has been a fantastic learning experience
>for me. It sure is fun to see it working.
>
>I will try to be on the air at about 8:00 tonight, somewhere around 7040.
>I'll talk to anyone/everyone who wants to chat.
>
>I have a picture posted (for a while) in the photo section.
>
>72,
>Craig, AAØZZ
Craig,
Fantastic! Another 2N2/40 up and running. I'll be on this evening
looking for you, and hopefully, we can have a QSO with your new rig.
Congratulations and 72,
Jim, K8IQY
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
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>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim,
>Fantastic! Another 2N2/40 up and running. I'll be on this evening
>looking for you, and hopefully, we can have a QSO with your new rig.
>
>Congratulations and 72,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
It would be fun (and appropriate) to have you for my first contact.
Will look for you. 8:00 CST (0200 UTC) 7040
Hope I don't blow the finals - I don't have heat sinks for 'em yet.
Just a fan blowing air across them!
72,
Craig, AAOZZ
At 04:29 PM 1/6/02 -0600, Ken, KD2KW wrote:
>-snip-
>Jim, I thought these pictures would be helpful in understanding the
>oscillation issue I'm experiencing. I can't put the trace scale on the
>picture as I'm taking them with a Kenwood VC-H1. I'm able to get a small
>.jpg file that you can see in this directory. Channel 1 is the signal on
>the antenna at 20mV (direct clip lead probe). The scale on the output
>(Channel 2, 10X probe) is .2v (I think but might need to setup the test
>again to check) period was either .1 or .05.
Ken,
What are you seeing on T8-2/3 without any input and the VFO and
LO both shut down. Is is oscillating still. If so, make sure
you document the sweep setting on the scope, so we have that
captured. At first blush, it sure looks like the IF Amplifier
is oscillating, but it shouldn't be with the components specified
in the latest schematics. I can't see in the picture how far apart
T7 and T8 are, and are they are right angles to each other. Maybe
we're getting some coupling between the input and output. Also,
make sure all of the required bypass capacitors. those 0.22uf
jobbies are in place. Can you try another power supply also, and
what is the voltage of the supply used for these test conditions?
>Hope this will help us understand the issue better.
Sure does......but we need to do a bit more work.
72, and thanks for the feedback,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 06:57 PM 1/6/02 -0600, you wrote:
>It would be fun (and appropriate) to have you for my first contact.
>Will look for you. 8:00 CST (0200 UTC) 7040
I'm listening there now Craig.......
>Hope I don't blow the finals - I don't have heat sinks for 'em yet.
>Just a fan blowing air across them!
They won't get hot, even without the heatsinks, unless you hold
the key down for a very long time. Just make sure you have the
Zener diode in the collector circuit, to protect them from high
SWR.
72 and looking for you on 40,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 06:57 PM 1/6/02 -0600, Craig, AA0ZZ wrote:
>It would be fun (and appropriate) to have you for my first contact.
>Will look for you. 8:00 CST (0200 UTC) 7040
Craig,
Heard you loud and clear from 0200Z until 0215Z. Called you
several times, but you did not hear me. Also, W0PWE, Jerry
in DeMoines, IA and N0TU called you. Sorry we didn't make the
connection.
I'm wondering if the IF offset is correct on your receiver.
Maybe you have it set up for LSB and not USB. The Tx sounds
very good. Nice and clean, and no chirps or key clicks, so
that's working well.
72 and I hope you we able to make a contact,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Craig,
You were about 5db over S9 here in central Iowa and as Jim noted, your
signal sounded nice and clean. Jim was S8 to S9. Anyway, TX works great,
get the RX working and you will have a FB rig there.
72
Jerry
W0PWE
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY [mailto:
jokortge@prodigy.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 8:36 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: IT WORKS!
At 06:57 PM 1/6/02 -0600, Craig, AA0ZZ wrote:
>It would be fun (and appropriate) to have you for my first contact.
>Will look for you. 8:00 CST (0200 UTC) 7040
Craig,
Heard you loud and clear from 0200Z until 0215Z. Called you
several times, but you did not hear me. Also, W0PWE, Jerry
in DeMoines, IA and N0TU called you. Sorry we didn't make the
connection.
I'm wondering if the IF offset is correct on your receiver.
Maybe you have it set up for LSB and not USB. The Tx sounds
very good. Nice and clean, and no chirps or key clicks, so
that's working well.
72 and I hope you we able to make a contact,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Jim, Jerry et al
>Craig,
>
>Heard you loud and clear from 0200Z until 0215Z. Called you
>everal times, but you did not hear me. Also, W0PWE, Jerry
>in DeMoines, IA and N0TU called you. Sorry we didn't make the
>connection.
>
>I'm wondering if the IF offset is correct on your receiver.
>Maybe you have it set up for LSB and not USB. The Tx sounds
>very good. Nice and clean, and no chirps or key clicks, so
>that's working well.
>
>72 and I hope you we able to make a contact,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
NUTS! I may have some alignment problems yet. I didn't tune
around when I was calling to see if I had it on the wrong side.
Sorry. Very glad to hear I was sounding clean, however.
Fantastic report from you, Jerry. Really sorry I couldn't
find you either. Would have been two rigs in a row with you
being my first contact!
I did end up making two brief contacts. At 8:15 I talked to
KD5ELS, David, in Petal,MS. Got a 339.
Then I talked to KF0N, Larry, in Cedar Rapids, IA for a couple
of minutes but lost him. Judging from the "tone" that he came
back to me with (very low), if he was zero beat with me, I do
have serious alignment problems! (Maybe they were using RIT.)
After that contact, I heard someone signing off with you, Jim.
Don't know if you had already gone or if I just couldn't hear
you.
I will go back over the alignment and then we can try again.
Thanks, guys! Almost there!
72,
Craig, AAOZZ
Ken Mitchell wrote:
>
> Jim,
> All,
>
> I hope the moderator doesn't mind me creating a folder for pictures.
> Seems there's a 20MB area there and only .5MB being used. Since our
The moderator wishes everyone to use the Yahoo site to its fullest; if
this means pictures in the files area, then so be it. ;)
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comATTA BOY..JOHN
At 09:07 AM 1/7/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Ken Mitchell wrote:
> >
> > Jim,
> > All,
> >
> > I hope the moderator doesn't mind me creating a folder for pictures.
> > Seems there's a 20MB area there and only .5MB being used. Since our
>
>The moderator wishes everyone to use the Yahoo site to its fullest; if
>this means pictures in the files area, then so be it. ;)
>
>73,
>
>John, N1QO
>
>--
>John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
>Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Thanks John,
Since I needed a place for the pictures and everyone was pointing
to the picture area being nearly full I thought I would do this but
didn't want to step on anyone's toes.
Anyway the directory has been created and structured so anyone can
add their own directory and then the picture files. I used my call
as the directory name as a thought to keep things separated in this
area.
Thanks again John for supporting our group effort in this way. I
got started on this project by finding out about the group. Its
been a great way for me to learn by sharing with you, Jim and
others in the group. I hope to have an antenna worthy of the effort
someday but probably will have to leave the neighborhood to do so
(CCRs). Guess it's QRP to the field for me. Otherwise a mobile whip.
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Wes Clopton wrote:
> ATTA BOY..JOHN
>
> At 09:07 AM 1/7/02 -0500, you wrote:
> >Ken Mitchell wrote:
> > >
> > > Jim,
> > > All,
> > >
> > > I hope the moderator doesn't mind me creating a folder for
pictures.
> > > Seems there's a 20MB area there and only .5MB being used. Since
our
> >
> >The moderator wishes everyone to use the Yahoo site to its fullest;
if
> >this means pictures in the files area, then so be it. ;)
> >
> >73,
> >
> >John, N1QO
> >
> >--
> >John Wagner - john@w...
> >Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hi Jim,
I've changed the thread to reflect the issue we're working.
Yes the picture file "020105_175244.jpg" is of the input (no signal)
and T8 2-3.
Since the picture of the board I've changed the orientation of T8 by
90 degrees to see no change in oscillation. I've also laid the IF
input transformer down on it's side with no change. One other thing is
the period of the sine wave does lengthen when I change C25 from 330
pF to 660 pF. I'll need to hook up everything again to get the exact
period from the o-scope.
The supply voltage is 12.34 volts. I can go to the large supply in the
shack for a test. Just need to transport things from current work
position or maybe move the supply. Anyway I'll work this out tonight.
I've also checked the bypass capacitors by temporarily parallel of a
second .22 across the existing capacitors, one at a time, with no
change in the o-scope waveform. We were thinking alike I guess. If
something to do with the bypass capacitors maybe I just change them
all out.
At one time I could cause the oscillations to stop by placing the VOM
on the base-collector node but that doesn't happen now. Guess I've
actually made the feedback loop worse at some point.
Anyway we'll find it and we'll all learn. Hi-gain/small-signal amps
can be tricky. It's probably something real obvious but new to me.
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 04:29 PM 1/6/02 -0600, Ken, KD2KW wrote:
>
> >-snip-
>
>
> >Jim, I thought these pictures would be helpful in understanding the
> >oscillation issue I'm experiencing. I can't put the trace scale on
the
> >picture as I'm taking them with a Kenwood VC-H1. I'm able to get a
small
> >.jpg file that you can see in this directory. Channel 1 is the
signal on
> >the antenna at 20mV (direct clip lead probe). The scale on the
output
> >(Channel 2, 10X probe) is .2v (I think but might need to setup the
test
> >again to check) period was either .1 or .05.
>
> Ken,
>
> What are you seeing on T8-2/3 without any input and the VFO and
> LO both shut down. Is is oscillating still. If so, make sure
> you document the sweep setting on the scope, so we have that
> captured. At first blush, it sure looks like the IF Amplifier
> is oscillating, but it shouldn't be with the components specified
> in the latest schematics. I can't see in the picture how far apart
> T7 and T8 are, and are they are right angles to each other. Maybe
> we're getting some coupling between the input and output. Also,
> make sure all of the required bypass capacitors. those 0.22uf
> jobbies are in place. Can you try another power supply also, and
> what is the voltage of the supply used for these test conditions?
>
>
> >Hope this will help us understand the issue better.
>
> Sure does......but we need to do a bit more work.
>
> 72, and thanks for the feedback,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Gang,
I been keeping this improvement out of sight so that I didn't cause
to much anxiety on the part of those who are still building, and
maybe debugging their rig. Nothing like being almost done, and
have something new to think about. But, most of those who are
building are well along, and this one may help those whose rigs
seem to not hear as well as they'd like.
It was also built by Arth, W6AGS, and he thinks it is a real keeper,
so here goes.
I've added to the Yahoo site, a PDF formatted file containing
the schematic of a little AF amplifier that I added to
my rig. It is wired in between the output of the product
detector, R26/C27 junction on the latest schematic, and
the input of the Rx Mute, the drain of the 2N7000. As
you will see when looking at the "B" schematic of the
rig, C41 on the input of the Rx Mute is not needed, and
POT3 is moved to the output of the AF amp. Also,
the output of the Rx Mute now goes directly to the
input, C42, of the audio amplifier section.
I had to change R40 in the mute circuit to 220K to get
enough audio through a low volume that I could hear my
own keying. The QSK keying is probably as good as I've
ever had it.
72 and let me know what you think, and how it works for you.
I can also add an image of the little board that I built
with the pre-amp on it. It's just a tad over 1 inch square,
so easy to fit in.
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
1429|1428|2002-01-07 16:53:48|John Wagner|Re: 1st Audio Pre-amp|"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> I been keeping this improvement out of sight so that I didn't cause
> to much anxiety on the part of those who are still building, and
> maybe debugging their rig. Nothing like being almost done, and
Just got my rig working good again, even screwed the cover on it last
night.
Now this.
Thanks a lot Jim.
;)
Seriously, I hope to have some time this week to build this. Thanks for
continuing to improve on this already great radio and project.
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGang,
I did some thinking about procedures and did some alignment
of my 2N2/40 tonight. It may be helpful to others so here is
my plan, the methods, and the results.
1) I started out by transmitting with my "big rig" into a dummy
load and (via a T) also into the antenna of my 2N2/40. Lowest
possible power. A signal generator would have been better, but
that will have to come later. Set frequency on "big rig" to
approximately 7000 kHz.
2) I measured the frequency at the antenna terminal with my TEK
frequency counter module in my scope. It measured 7000.040 kHz.
3) Next I wanted to determine the center frequency of my crystal
filter. I found it by putting my scope probe on the output of
the crystal filter. (Actually did it at T7 pin 1.) Turned the
VFO (Pot 1) until I hit the frequency in which the magnitude of
the signal coming through the filter was highest. Moved scope
probe to the frequency counter and measured this frequency to be
4915.440 .
4) Since we want this rig to receive on USB, it means that I
want to set the RxLO to be BELOW the crystal filter center
frequency. Since I want the tone to be about 750 Hz, I want
to set the RxLO to:
(4915.440 - .750) = 4914.690
I put the probe on the output of the RxLO, (actually at T9 pin 1)
and I tweaked TC5 to set it as close as I could to 4914.690.
(Note: I had to change L3 to be 56 uH instead of 39uH to reach
down to this frequency.) The tuning of TC5 was very touchy and
I quit when I got it to 4914.707.
5) Now to set the VFO frequency. I want:
(RxLO + VFO) = (7000.040 - .750) (for 750 Hz tone)
Thus, VFO = (6999.290 - 4914.707) or VFO = 2084.583.
Put scope probe on the VFO (base of Q3) and measured VFO frequency.
Without moving Pot 1, I tweaked TC4 until frequency was close to
2084.583.
6) Now set TxLO. I want the transmitter to transmit on exactly
the same frequency as the received signal. That's truly ZERO BEAT.
Since the input frequency was 7000.040, I disconnected the "big
rig" from the dummy load T, and left the 2N2/40 connected to the
dummy load. I transmitted into the dummy load and measured the
frequency at the antenna terminal. I tweaked TC6 until the
frequency at the output was close to 7000.040.
By the way, I should have been able to verify the frequency of the TxLO
by direct measurement. It should be the same as the center of the
crystal filter, or 4915.44. Then, when added to the ideal VFO (2084.600),
it should produce 7000.040. Actually I know this is off by a bit because
I could only get RxLO to 4914.707 (high by .017) so VFO was set LOW by
17 Hz (to 2084.583) to make (RxLO + VFO) to be 6999.29. Unfortunately,
I was not able to measure the frequency of the VFO cleanly while
transmitting. Too much mixing already going on, and my frequency counter
didn't lock on properly. Thus I resorted to measuring the output frequency
at the antenna terminal after it is fully mixed with the TxLO.
Here is a crude picture. Look at it with a mono-spaced font for best
results.
IDEAL:
IF Final
4915.440 7000.040
| |
4914.690 | 6999.290 |
| | | |
| /|\ | /|\
| / | \ | / | \
|/ | \ |/ | \
/ | \ / | \
/| | \ /| | \
-----------------/ | | \-------------------/ | | \---
| | | |
|<----RxLO-------->|<--------------VFO------------>| |
4914.690 | 2084.600 |
| |
|<----TxLO------------>|<-------------VFO------------->|
4915.440 2084.600
ACTUAL:
IF Final
4915.457 7000.040
| |
4914.707 | 6999.290 |
| | | |
| / \ | /|\
|/ |\ | / | \
| | \ |/ | \
/| | \ / | \
/ | | \ /| | \
-----------------/ | | \-------------------/ | | \---
| | | |
|<----RxLO--------->|<--------------VFO----------->| |
4914.707 | 2084.583 |
| |
|<----TxLO------------->|<-------------VFO------------>|
4915.457 2084.583
Now to test it. Since I am "zero beat", theoretically I should
hear the same audio tone frequency as a sidetone when I transmit
as I hear when I receive the signal that the "big rig" is
transmitting on that same frequency. I tried it, and it was
"close". Not perfect, but quite close.
Did a bit of listening upon completion with this alignment. Signals
were strong and clear. Definitely listening to the Upper Sidebands
and rejecting the Lower Sidebands. (As I tune higher in frequency, the
received tone goes down in pitch. Stops when tone is at the "bottom".)
Incidentally, my alignment was off a couple of days ago when I made
my first contacts and missed contacts with Jim, Jerry, and others.
No wonder the sidetone frequency I was hearing sounded so "low" in
frequency. I had it aligned such that the RxLO + VFO would be
7000.040, instead of 6999.290. Thus, my RxLo and TxLO were on
"nearly" the same frequency, resulting in no sidetone. Furthermore,
when you guys "zero'd" on my signal, it also resulted in a very low
tone that I couldn't hear.
WHAT MY BAD ALIGNMENT LOOKED LIKE A FEW DAYS AGO:
IF Final
4915.440 7000.040
| |
4914.690| |
| | |
| /|\ /|\
|/ | \ / | \
| | \ / | \
/| | \ / | \
/ | | \ / | \
-----------------/ | | \-------------------/ | \---
| |
|<----RxLO--------->|<-------------VFO---------------->|
4914.690 | 2085.350 |
| |
|<----TxLO--------->|<-------------VFO---------------->|
4914.690 2085.350
I think I have it now. What ya think?
72,
Craig, AA0ZZ
|
1431|1431|2002-01-09 00:33:16|Craig Johnson, AA0ZZ|2N2/40 Alignment again|Gang,
Sorry about the pictures on the last post. I didn't think YAHOO
would compress all the spaces out! They looked OK in the text editor.
Hope it makes sense anyway.
72,
Craig, AA0ZZ
|
1432|1431|2002-01-09 00:42:10|Wes Clopton|Re: 2N2/40 Alignment again|Very GOOD write up Craig.............Thanks
At 11:32 PM 1/8/02 -0600, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>Sorry about the pictures on the last post. I didn't think YAHOO
>would compress all the spaces out! They looked OK in the text editor.
>Hope it makes sense anyway.
>
>72,
>Craig, AA0ZZ
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
At 11:25 PM 1/8/02 -0600, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>I did some thinking about procedures and did some alignment
>of my 2N2/40 tonight. It may be helpful to others so here is
>my plan, the methods, and the results.
>
>-lotta stuff snipped out-
>
>I think I have it now. What ya think?
>
>
>72,
>Craig, AA0ZZ
You have it aligned right on the money now Craig. I was guessing
there was some mis-alignment the other nite when you didn't hear
any of us. An unfortunate set of circumstances, but it won't happen
again now that you have it set up better. Those were very good
diagrams. I, like you, think a good drawing is invaluable for
showing the relationship of LO to filter center when trying to
illustrate where all of the signals need to be in a design. Well
done!!
72 and CU on 40, maybe tonight, Wednesday.
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Craig - You've done a wonderul writeup. The
typewriter-style drawings are superb as well. My hat
is off to you! -HWP/WP4GVW (ex KP4ABF), San Juan, 1849
hours AST 09Jan02 (Wednesday)
--- "Craig Johnson, AA0ZZ" <
cbjohns@mn.mediaone.net>
wrote:
> Gang,
>
> I did some thinking about procedures and did some
> alignment
> of my 2N2/40 tonight. It may be helpful to others so
> here is
> my plan, the methods, and the results.
>
> 1) I started out by transmitting with my "big rig"
> into a dummy
> load and (via a T) also into the antenna of my
> 2N2/40. Lowest
> possible power. A signal generator would have been
> better, but
> that will have to come later. Set frequency on "big
> rig" to
> approximately 7000 kHz.
>
> 2) I measured the frequency at the antenna terminal
> with my TEK
> frequency counter module in my scope. It measured
> 7000.040 kHz.
>
> 3) Next I wanted to determine the center frequency
> of my crystal
> filter. I found it by putting my scope probe on the
> output of
> the crystal filter. (Actually did it at T7 pin 1.)
> Turned the
> VFO (Pot 1) until I hit the frequency in which the
> magnitude of
> the signal coming through the filter was highest.
> Moved scope
> probe to the frequency counter and measured this
> frequency to be
> 4915.440 .
>
> 4) Since we want this rig to receive on USB, it
> means that I
> want to set the RxLO to be BELOW the crystal filter
> center
> frequency. Since I want the tone to be about 750
> Hz, I want
> to set the RxLO to:
> (4915.440 - .750) = 4914.690
> I put the probe on the output of the RxLO, (actually
> at T9 pin 1)
> and I tweaked TC5 to set it as close as I could to
> 4914.690.
> (Note: I had to change L3 to be 56 uH instead of
> 39uH to reach
> down to this frequency.) The tuning of TC5 was very
> touchy and
> I quit when I got it to 4914.707.
>
> 5) Now to set the VFO frequency. I want:
> (RxLO + VFO) = (7000.040 - .750) (for
> 750 Hz tone)
> Thus, VFO = (6999.290 - 4914.707) or VFO =
> 2084.583.
> Put scope probe on the VFO (base of Q3) and measured
> VFO frequency.
> Without moving Pot 1, I tweaked TC4 until frequency
> was close to
> 2084.583.
>
> 6) Now set TxLO. I want the transmitter to
> transmit on exactly
> the same frequency as the received signal. That's
> truly ZERO BEAT.
> Since the input frequency was 7000.040, I
> disconnected the "big
> rig" from the dummy load T, and left the 2N2/40
> connected to the
> dummy load. I transmitted into the dummy load and
> measured the
> frequency at the antenna terminal. I tweaked TC6
> until the
> frequency at the output was close to 7000.040.
>
> By the way, I should have been able to verify the
> frequency of the TxLO
> by direct measurement. It should be the same as the
> center of the
> crystal filter, or 4915.44. Then, when added to the
> ideal VFO (2084.600),
> it should produce 7000.040. Actually I know this is
> off by a bit because
> I could only get RxLO to 4914.707 (high by .017) so
> VFO was set LOW by
> 17 Hz (to 2084.583) to make (RxLO + VFO) to be
> 6999.29. Unfortunately,
> I was not able to measure the frequency of the VFO
> cleanly while
> transmitting. Too much mixing already going on, and
> my frequency counter
> didn't lock on properly. Thus I resorted to
> measuring the output frequency
> at the antenna terminal after it is fully mixed with
> the TxLO.
>
>
> Here is a crude picture. Look at it with a
> mono-spaced font for best
> results.
>
>
> IDEAL:
>
> IF
> Final
> 4915.440
> 7000.040
> |
> |
> 4914.690 |
> 6999.290 |
> | | |
> |
> | /|\ |
> /|\
> | / | \ |
> / | \
> |/ | \
> |/ | \
> / | \ /
> | \
> /| | \ /|
> | \
> -----------------/ | | \-------------------/ |
> | \---
> | | |
> |
> |<----RxLO-------->|<--------------VFO------------>|
> |
> 4914.690 | 2084.600
> |
> |
> |
>
|<----TxLO------------>|<-------------VFO------------->|
> 4915.440 2084.600
>
>
>
> ACTUAL:
>
> IF
> Final
> 4915.457
> 7000.040
> |
> |
> 4914.707 |
> 6999.290 |
> | | |
> |
> | / \ |
> /|\
> |/ |\ |
> / | \
> | | \
> |/ | \
> /| | \ /
> | \
> / | | \ /|
> | \
> -----------------/ | | \-------------------/ |
> | \---
> | | |
> |
> |<----RxLO--------->|<--------------VFO----------->|
> |
> 4914.707 | 2084.583
> |
> |
> |
>
|<----TxLO------------->|<-------------VFO------------>|
> 4915.457 2084.583
>
>
>
> Now to test it. Since I am "zero beat",
> theoretically I should
> hear the same audio tone frequency as a sidetone
> when I transmit
> as I hear when I receive the signal that the "big
> rig" is
> transmitting on that same frequency. I tried it,
> and it was
> "close". Not perfect, but quite close.
>
> Did a bit of listening upon completion with this
> alignment. Signals
> were strong and clear. Definitely listening to the
> Upper Sidebands
> and rejecting the Lower Sidebands. (As I tune higher
> in frequency, the
> received tone goes down in pitch. Stops when tone
> is at the "bottom".)
>
> Incidentally, my alignment was off a couple of days
> ago
=== message truncated ===
__________________________________________________
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Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/Wow! What a great writeup Craig. I've got a Freq counter coming soon and
will use your instructions to fine tune my setup.
73,
John, N1QO
"Craig Johnson, AA0ZZ" wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> I did some thinking about procedures and did some alignment
> of my 2N2/40 tonight. It may be helpful to others so here is
> my plan, the methods, and the results.
>
..
>
> I think I have it now. What ya think?
>
> 72,
> Craig, AA0ZZ
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim and Gang,
>
>You have it aligned right on the money now Craig.......
>
>72 and CU on 40, maybe tonight, Wednesday.
>
>Jim, K8IQY
Yes, how about tonight (Wednesday 1/9) at 8:00 CST. (0200 UTC).
around 7040 again. Hope it works this time! I be around for you and
anyone else who wants to chat.
72,
- Craig, AA0ZZ
At 06:14 PM 1/9/02 -0600, you wrote:
>Yes, how about tonight (Wednesday 1/9) at 8:00 CST. (0200 UTC).
>around 7040 again. Hope it works this time! I be around for you and
>anyone else who wants to chat.
>
>72,
>- Craig, AA0ZZ
Be looking for you around 0200Z on 7040 +/- QRM Craig.
72 and thanks,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Gang,
This is an updated of a message I posted last December. Now that mine
is up and working, I have confidence that these drawings and layouts
are usable and probably helpful to others.
Let me start at the beginning.
When I started building my 2N2-40 a few weeks ago, I didn't quite know
where to start. I have about 3 versions of the schematics and a couple
of versions of the pictorial drawings, including Jim's and Paul Harden's.
However, the latest schematics have so many changes that I got really
confused.
My first task was to collect the schematics and decide on the version and
features I wanted to use. I decided I wanted the Variable Bandwidth Filter,
and no RIT. Then I decided I wanted it to use ONLY 2N2222 transistors, so
I went back to Jim's modified (not original) Rx mute circuit which uses a
2N2222. I realize the new version with the 2N7000 is better, but I really
want to stick with the original "ground rules" for mine.
Also, I really prefer to have a single page schematic if at all possible.
(Obviously this is not always possible.) I decided to draw a new version
of the schematics with the features I mentioned. I did it with a
schematic/simulation program called CircuitMaker, but I was also able to
export it into a Word document. It takes three pages when printed out in
CircuitMaker, but then the 3 pagescan be taped together to see the whole
picture. With the Word version, I am working on a way to make them span
pages. You can see them OK on the computer screen if you use magnification.
Try 400% or 500%.
Next I did a new parts layout. I made an actual size template (5" x 7" as
in the original drawings) for the pad layout using Microsoft PowerPoint.
It uses the same basic sections as previous drawings. However, it has the
modified 2N2222 mute that is different from the original. Most of the parts
layouts were close to the versions previously drawn by Jim and Paul.
However, some sections had major modifications.
Then, still in PowerPoint, I drew in rough approximation of all the parts.
I say rough approximation, because I just have small circles for "normal"
resistors and capacitors. Crystals and torroids are approximated by
rectangles. Trimmer capacitors are illustrated with a rough drawing of a
trimmer. Electrolytic capacitors are larger circles. The output audio
transformer is approximately the correct size.
I tried to translate the PowerPoint drawing into a Microsoft Word drawing,
those who have Word but don't have PowerPoint, but it did not translate
perfectly. If this is really needed by someone, let me know and I will try
to get it to work. Just some more tedious work.
I think this drawing should be usable by anyone who has PowerPoint wants
to print it. Use it by making a small hole in the paper where each pad is.
Now use a felt-tip pen to mark through these holes onto the circuit board.
Now glue 'em on.
Next I made another drawing which illustrates the interconnections. Another
PowerPoint drawing, with different interconnections in different colors. A
but cluttered, but not too bad.
I did make quite a few of changes/corrections since the last version that I
posted. I have posted a list of the revisions in another file.
These four files are now posted in the files section of this group.
Hope this is helpful. Many thanks to Jim and the rest of the group for
a very enjoyable and interesting project.
72,
Craig, AAOZZ
|
1439|1428|2002-01-09 21:01:26|adverse_yaw|Re: 1st Audio Pre-amp|Gang,
Well, I tore out everything from the rx mute down to the detector. I
have now installed the 1st Pre-amp and will continue to fit in the
rest (Rx mute, detector, mixer, etc.). I had some room in that
section if I moved things around a little, so I decided to move
things around a little. I had used the room for a CW Zero Beat
Detector - by Jerry Henshaw, KR5L -
http://home.earthlink.net/~n0ss/kr5l_cw_tuning_ind.pdf. It caused
such a buzz in the audio that I took it out. It seems to generate a
signal on the input put pin that is coupled right to the amp. I had
it tapping the signal on the amp side of the audio transformer
(T10). Perhaps it will work better on the speaker side. I will have
to see.
I have just one question about the pre-amp. Is the 3900pf cap
critical? I mean the value, not the component, as all I can find in
my junkbox are 1000pf caps from the NorCal kit.
Thanks,
Kevin, KC8SFJ
Craig..aa0zz 439 7039.8mhz in MD...qrm..qrn..qsb
glad I heard you...
Jim.....K1iqy 559 7039.8mhz in MD easy copy
You have a winner Craig..
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
|
1441|1440|2002-01-09 22:27:09|cbj55126|Re: signal report|Wes,
Thanks for the signal report from MD! Glad to hear I was making
it out there too.
It was fun to make the contact with Jim. Conditions were not
particularly good between us tonight. Another time. I still have a
few kinks to work out too.
72,
Craig, AAØZZ
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Wes Clopton wrote:
> Craig..aa0zz 439 7039.8mhz in MD...qrm..qrn..qsb
> glad I heard you...
> Jim.....K1iqy 559 7039.8mhz in MD easy copy
>
> You have a winner Craig..
>
>
> W3ERU Wes
> ARRL
> FISTS #2099
> QRPARCI 8304
> QRP-L 2179
> CW is my Mode
Jim,
Well I got some time on the IF oscillations tonight and by nothing I did
the IF amp stopped oscillating. I was taking measurements with the
higher voltage supply when the wave form became a nice clear sine wave
with the Rx LO off. I think the gain is still down but I believe as a
result of this I discovered T8 must have a short of some kind. I worked
around with several things including getting some more wave forms in the
file area. One at 14 volts and another at ten volts. When I started up I
took another wave form with it oscillating just to compare previous
conditions to those tonight. Very little change in the output down to
ten volts, some reduction in gain but not significant. I think the
levels on the IF output are still down from your charts but I'm not
going to worry with that until I get T8 in order. I'll do a comparison
when I can get T8 rewound and no oscillation.
The scales on the posted charts tonight are:
Period - .1 micro sec.
C1 - 5 Mv /div
C2 - .2V /div
I'll get back with a report when I can rewind T8.
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
|
1443|1337|2002-01-10 02:45:47|adverse_yaw|Re: Reciever Sensitivity Problem?|Gang,
Just thought I would give you guys an update on my progress.
I finished the 1st pre-amp, Rx mute, mixer, and detector. As I was
building the detector stage I believe I found the reason for the low
audio. I had placed C28 from T9-6 to ground. Instead of it being on
the other side of Diode D12 it was on the transformer side. I
believe this would short half of the signal getting to the detector
to ground. I don't know what I was thinking. I had rebuilt that
section once before, as I had swapped T9-6 and T9-3, and put C28
right back where it was, on the transformer side of D12. Oh well,
live and learn.
I have checked it out again and seem to have a useable signal all the
way down to -80dBm, however that could be the result of another stage
of amplification. Will check it out further tomorrow.
Thank you all for the help.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|
1444|1444|2002-01-10 02:55:47|junkboxman|RX LO In the IF AMP|I have the receiver running. However, the receiver was somewhat
deaf. So I started tracing signal through the path using Jim's
posted traces.
The receiver was constructed with roughly the same layout as the web
documentation.
In the course of the tracing I found that Q7-C had 2.0 v p-p of a
signal that was the frequency of the RX LO. The Q7-B had 800 mv of
a signal of the same frequency. With T7-1 shorted to ground there
was change in these signals. When the RX LO was turned off Q7-C had
a 200 mv p-p signal that was the frequency of the VFO. This
disappeared when the VFO was turned off.
So I suspected coupling from the ajacent circuits into the IF. I
installed additional bypassing on the 12v power. No improvement.
I then installed a 1 inch vertical copper partition between the long
side of the mixer, variable filter and IF to isolate it from the VFO
and a 1 inch vertical partition between the RX LO and the end of the
IF AMP. The belief was that this should provide good isolation
between the circuits.
I left T7-1 remained shorted to ground.
The VFO component on Q7-C is now zero. However, the RX LO signal is
still 2.0 volts p-p at Q7-C and the Q7-B is now 200 mv (4X
reduction).
I know that this is very much subjective. But can someone provide
some insight on what is occuring.
Is this something that should be of concern? The product detector
it seems should not see these signals.
Walt, N6XG
|
1445|1428|2002-01-10 14:27:10|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 1st Audio Pre-amp|At 02:00 AM 1/10/02 +0000, Kevin, KC8SFJ wrote:
>Gang,
>-snipo-
>I have just one question about the pre-amp. Is the 3900pf cap
>critical? I mean the value, not the component, as all I can find in
>my junkbox are 1000pf caps from the NorCal kit.
Kevin,
The 3900pF value is somewhat critical. It sets the high frequency
rolloff of the amp. I'd suggest using a 0.005uF if you don't have
the 3900pF available, or maybe a 0.01uF. You might be able to find
a 0.005uF at your local Radio Shack.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 10:10 PM 1/9/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Craig..aa0zz 439 7039.8mhz in MD...qrm..qrn..qsb
> glad I heard you...
>Jim.....K1iqy 559 7039.8mhz in MD easy copy
>
>You have a winner Craig..
>
>
>W3ERU Wes
I agree with Wes. Craig's rig sounds great!! Condx were stinko,
but we still had a decent QSO between two 2N2/40 rigs. Doesn't
get much better in my book, but then I am a bit prejudiced! :-)
72 and thanks for the report Wes,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....after working Craig, I got a call from Tom, KC0GXX, using
his new 2N2/40. So had two 2N2/40 QSOs last evening. Talk
about a buzz......
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 07:55 AM 1/10/02 +0000, Walt, N6XG wrote:
>I have the receiver running. However, the receiver was somewhat
>deaf.
Dang....another one that doesn't seem to be hearing well.
> So I started tracing signal through the path using Jim's
>posted traces.
>
>The receiver was constructed with roughly the same layout as the web
>documentation.
>
>In the course of the tracing I found that Q7-C had 2.0 v p-p of a
>signal that was the frequency of the RX LO. The Q7-B had 800 mv of
>a signal of the same frequency. With T7-1 shorted to ground there
>was change in these signals. When the RX LO was turned off Q7-C had
>a 200 mv p-p signal that was the frequency of the VFO. This
>disappeared when the VFO was turned off.
>
>
>So I suspected coupling from the ajacent circuits into the IF. I
>installed additional bypassing on the 12v power. No improvement.
>
>I then installed a 1 inch vertical copper partition between the long
>side of the mixer, variable filter and IF to isolate it from the VFO
>and a 1 inch vertical partition between the RX LO and the end of the
>IF AMP. The belief was that this should provide good isolation
>between the circuits.
>
>I left T7-1 remained shorted to ground.
>
>The VFO component on Q7-C is now zero. However, the RX LO signal is
>still 2.0 volts p-p at Q7-C and the Q7-B is now 200 mv (4X
>reduction).
>
>I know that this is very much subjective. But can someone provide
>some insight on what is occuring.
Yes. There is feedthrough from the LO back into the IF amplifier.
The signal you are seeing is normal; I've got it on mine too, but
it doesn't hurt anything. It's a consequence of implementing the
Product Detector with a single balanced mixer. A DBM here would
reduce that signal to a much lower level. Also, some of it may
be due to imbalances in the windings of T9, or imbalances in the
Product Detector diodes. Overall, the IF amplifier has quite good
isolation from output to input, but the 2nd stage isn't all that
spiffy.
>Is this something that should be of concern? The product detector
>it seems should not see these signals.
Well the only one we are interested in this the difference between
the IF signal coming through the filter, and the LO. When the signal
is centered in the xtal filter passband, and the LO is set correctly,
the difference is the 750 Hz audio we hear coming out of the speaker.
All of the other mixing products, including the sum frequency, are
bypassed to ground via capacitors C28 and C27.
I'd continue building, as I think you have done about all you can
to minimize the errant signals you are seeing, unless rewinding T9
and using a more matched set of diodes will reduce those signals
farther.
72 and thanks for the good feedback,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 07:45 AM 1/10/02 +0000, Kevin, KC8SFJ wrote:
>Gang,
>Just thought I would give you guys an update on my progress.
>I finished the 1st pre-amp, Rx mute, mixer, and detector. As I was
>building the detector stage I believe I found the reason for the low
>audio. I had placed C28 from T9-6 to ground. Instead of it being on
>the other side of Diode D12 it was on the transformer side. I
>believe this would short half of the signal getting to the detector
>to ground.
That's essentially correct Kevin. Not only is half of the audio
lost, but it unbalances the transformer too, so more of the
LO signal shows up on the diode side of the transformer.
> I don't know what I was thinking. I had rebuilt that
>section once before, as I had swapped T9-6 and T9-3, and put C28
>right back where it was, on the transformer side of D12. Oh well,
>live and learn.
We all make those kinds of misqueues when building. At least I
have my share......
>I have checked it out again and seem to have a useable signal all the
>way down to -80dBm, however that could be the result of another stage
>of amplification.
When you add the gain of the final audio amplifier, it should
hear down to at least -110dBm, if not quite a bit better. Mine
measures a 3dB increase in signal above the noise at -128dBm.
72 and keep us posted on your progress.
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim,
In all the information I find about DBM's the IF out is taken
from the center tap of the RF input transformer. Which would be
T3-4/5, yet we are grounding that port.
We are using T4-4/5 as our IF
out (C)..T4 is the LO transformer and that port should be grounded
Why the difference?
Wes
|
1450|1449|2002-01-11 17:00:24|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: DBM|At 02:22 PM 1/11/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Jim,
Hi Wes,
>In all the information I find about DBM's the IF out is taken
>from the center tap of the RF input transformer.
What is the source of your information?
> Which would be
>T3-4/5, yet we are grounding that port.
Yes......
>We are using T4-4/5 as our IF
>out (C)..T4 is the LO transformer and that port should be grounded
Or one can take the IF from that port. See Solid State Design for
the Radio Amateur, page 118, at the bottom.
>Why the difference?
Either configuration will work equally well, as long as good
balance is achieved on both transformers.
I'm gonna go look at the MiniCircuits web page and see which
side of the DBM they take the IF off of. Now you have my curiousity
agitated! :-)
72 and thanks for the good question,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
OK My first reference is : Mini-Circuits Lab....Get the most from mixers
article
second one is Relcom ....Double Balanced Mixer....M6 series
third Data Book fort Homebrewwers....NA5A
I was just curious ...Noticed the difference while looking up insolation
Wes
At 04:59 PM 1/11/02 -0500, you wrote:
>At 02:22 PM 1/11/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Jim,
>
>Hi Wes,
>
>
> >In all the information I find about DBM's the IF out is taken
> >from the center tap of the RF input transformer.
>
>What is the source of your information?
>
> > Which would be
> >T3-4/5, yet we are grounding that port.
>
>Yes......
>
>
> >We are using T4-4/5 as our IF
> >out (C)..T4 is the LO transformer and that port should be grounded
>
>Or one can take the IF from that port. See Solid State Design for
>the Radio Amateur, page 118, at the bottom.
>
>
> >Why the difference?
>
>Either configuration will work equally well, as long as good
>balance is achieved on both transformers.
>
>I'm gonna go look at the MiniCircuits web page and see which
>side of the DBM they take the IF off of. Now you have my curiousity
>agitated! :-)
>
>72 and thanks for the good question,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Jim, Wes, All -
How about eliminating T5 entirely? Output connections
from the VFO buffer (Vcc and Q3 collector) that now go
to the primary of T5 would go directly to the
secondary of a modified T4. By adjusting the number of
turns on the secondary of a newly designed T4 as
required, that winding could be made to present the
same impedance now presented to Q3 by the T5 primary.
Is not correct?
(Duplication occurs in all kinds of projects because
of specific details of individual project development.
In the maturation/refinement process it is gradually
eliminated.)
In re Wes Clopton's remark below, my nose suggests to
me grounding 4-5 in the T3 secondary and taking output
from 4-5 of T4 primary (assumed to be on left) is just
exactly equivalent to grounding 4-5 of T4 primary and
taking output from 4-5 of T3 secondary. That's just a
guess, though. Anyone want to try it?
I'm looking forward to seeing Jim's comments.
Greetings from the Sunny Caribbean!
73 HW / WP4GVW (ex KP4ABF)
--- Wes Clopton <
w3eru@drix.net> wrote:
> Jim,
>
> In all the information I find about DBM's the IF
> out is taken
> from the center tap of the RF input transformer.
> Which would be
> T3-4/5, yet we are grounding that port.
>
> We are using T4-4/5 as our IF
> out (C)..T4 is the LO transformer and that port
> should be grounded
>
> Why the difference?
>
> Wes
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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>
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http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/Jim, Wes, All,
Just looking at the circuit, the answer seems obvious.
The DBM is a three-port device, where each port has
two terminals and in each case one of those is ground.
The output port's terminals are 4-5 of T3 and 4-5 of
T4. It is immaterial which of those two terminals goes
to ground and which is labeled "C" and continues to
the mixer amp.
73 -HW WP4-GVW (ex-KP4-ABF)
--- Wes Clopton <
w3eru@drix.net> wrote:
> OK My first reference is : Mini-Circuits Lab....Get
> the most from mixers
> article
> second one is Relcom ....Double Balanced
> Mixer....M6 series
> third Data Book fort
> Homebrewwers....NA5A
>
> I was just curious ...Noticed the difference while
> looking up insolation
>
> Wes
>
> At 04:59 PM 1/11/02 -0500, you wrote:
> >At 02:22 PM 1/11/02 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> > >Jim,
> >
> >Hi Wes,
> >
> >
> > >In all the information I find about DBM's the IF
> out is taken
> > >from the center tap of the RF input transformer.
> >
> >What is the source of your information?
> >
> > > Which would be
> > >T3-4/5, yet we are grounding that port.
> >
> >Yes......
> >
> >
> > >We are using T4-4/5 as our IF
> > >out (C)..T4 is the LO transformer and that port
> should be grounded
> >
> >Or one can take the IF from that port. See Solid
> State Design for
> >the Radio Amateur, page 118, at the bottom.
> >
> >
> > >Why the difference?
> >
> >Either configuration will work equally well, as
> long as good
> >balance is achieved on both transformers.
> >
> >I'm gonna go look at the MiniCircuits web page and
> see which
> >side of the DBM they take the IF off of. Now you
> have my curiousity
> >agitated! :-)
> >
> >72 and thanks for the good question,
> >
> >Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
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http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/At 02:44 PM 1/11/02 -0800, you wrote:
>Jim, Wes, All,
>
>Just looking at the circuit, the answer seems obvious.
>
>The DBM is a three-port device, where each port has
>two terminals and in each case one of those is ground.
Thats where my question applies...A three port device has the best
isolation numbers if the IF port is on the RF side....
Wes
There is a very good write up in the 1993 December issue of
QST.."Taking the Mystery Out of Diode Double-Balanced Mixers"..page 32.
Wes
|
1456|1456|2002-01-11 21:24:46|Wes Clopton|QST and Ham Radio|Now that Ham Radio and QST, QEX are completely on CD.
I now have a good library of all issues in my desk drawer. I got
rid of the box 's of heavy magazines a long time ago.
Qst, Dec 1993 and HR June 87 have a couple of articles about DBM
that make
wonder if I may play around and see if it makes a difference.
HANS,
The trifiler windings on T3 and T4 are necessary to maintain
the unbalance to balance impedances at the input and output.
The isolation between the RF and LO to the IF port is where my
concern is.
Wes
|
1457|1456|2002-01-12 11:40:41|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: QST and Ham Radio|At 09:24 PM 1/11/02 -0500, Wes Clopton, wrote:
>Now that Ham Radio and QST, QEX are completely on CD.
>
>I now have a good library of all issues in my desk drawer. I got
>
>rid of the box 's of heavy magazines a long time ago.
>
>Qst, Dec 1993 and HR June 87 have a couple of articles about DBM
>
> that make
>
>wonder if I may play around and see if it makes a difference.
Well, I went back to all of my resource books, and looked at the
diagrams that are offered for diode DBM configurations, and those
references, about 8 of them, are equally split. Half show the
IF port coming off the LO drive side, and the other half show
the IF coming off the RF port side.
From a practical point of view, either one seems to work well.
I have my 2N2/40 mixer IF port coming off the LO side, and that
rig can hear a signal down to -128 dBm. While there is some LO
feedthrough, it is quite low, especially compared to the drive level.
I also modelled both configurations, and the configuration with
the IF port coming off the LO end of the DBM offers significantly
lower (20 to 30 dB) high order mixing products. But I'm not all
that confident that the models that I built are accurately simulating
what is going on in a real mixer. I'm tempted to build up another
2N2/40 style DBM using 1N4148 diodes, and actually measure it in
each configuration. That would be more believeable at this point.
I'm delighted that Wes C. brought up the question of which configuration
is correct. I'm certainly not an expert, and was relying on the
RF design books in my library. As stated above, there doesn't seem
to be much of a consensus. Maybe it is time to put this question
to Wes, W7ZOI and see what he has to say. I'd sure be interested
in his answer.
>HANS,
> The trifiler windings on T3 and T4 are necessary to maintain
>
>the unbalance to balance impedances at the input and output.
>
>The isolation between the RF and LO to the IF port is where my
>
>concern is.
Good point Wes.......
72 to all, and I've copied W7ZOI on this email. Maybe Wes H.
will have the time to comment, and we'll all learn.
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ok Jim, Im like a little kid sometimes...asking why?
Im always interested....Its a fun hobby...
Ill be interested in what Wes says also..
Wes Clopton W3ERU
At 11:38 AM 1/12/02, you wrote:
>At 09:24 PM 1/11/02 -0500, Wes Clopton, wrote:
>
> >
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Gang....here is the reply that I got back from Wes, W7ZOI. I guess
the logical next step is to partially take my 2N2/40 apart and make some
measurements on the DBM. I'll do that when I have some time. It's
not as easy a task as it might have been earlier, now that the DBM has
the new RF amp sitting above it, so getting to it with the probes
isn't going to be easy. Maybe it's time to remove the old RF amp,
so the DBM is more accessible for measuring.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Jim, Hans, et al,
Good to hear from you; it's been a while. Been busy here, but that is
finally backing off to a normal level and I'm actually getting on the
air a bit. Mostly on 6 M SSB and CW while the band is open with F2
propagation. The book (with KK7B and W7PUA) is finished and off for
editing. But I have no idea when that will be finished.
The question about the mixers is a subtle one and one that may not have
a simple answer that satisfies all. Generally, with the SBL-1 and
similar parts I've seen the grounded IF pin closest to the LO, with the
so called IF port next to the RF port. However, the mixer will work
either way. So when asking which configuration is "best," we really
have to define what it is that we most want. With the grounded pins
next to the LO port, this tends to emphasize layouts that provide better
isolation between LO and RF, or LO and IF. We generally worry more
about LO energy in the IF or RF paths than other parameters.
Hans said that he modeled the circuit, and I assume that this means
computer modeling. Modeling is complicated in a mixer of this sort.
While one can certainly do a simulation of a diode ring that will
produce the right conversion gain, and even spurious responses on a
qualitative level, the diode models will really become important for
good accuracy. The same goes for intermodulation distortion, although
I continue to be amazed at how well we have been able to do in that
regard. Performance regarding L to R or L to I isolation are often
dominated by issues of symmetry. That is, how well balanced are the
diodes and how symmetrical are the transformers? This can be modeled,
but you would have to rip the mixer to pieces and do some measurements
on the components to do it. Short of an EM simulator, I would opt for
measurements for these parameters.
There may be a detail related to simple topology issues that would alter
the spurious responses. But this is one I have not experienced with
diode ring mixers. I saw some behavior of this sort with FET ring
mixers.
I would be very surprised to see MDS depending on the mixer
configuration. And it is time to go beyond observations like "While
there is some LO feedthrough, it is quite low, especially compared to
the drive level." We can measure this with all sorts of simple
instruments, so there is no need to be qualitative. While the folks
using printed boards might find it messy to go into a circuit and break
it for a measurement, that is not going to be a problem with Manhattan,
ugly, or any breadboarding scheme.
Its interesting to look at what has happened at Mini Circuits over the
years. The old mixers we used to use, like the SBL-1, have essentially
been replaced by the TUF-1 and similar smaller parts. Generally these
smaller parts will exhibit 10 dB or so improved performance in L to I
and L to R isolation over the SBL-1. And the cost is virtually the
same. Generally, the IMD performance and the Gain/NF are unchanged,
depending only on available LO power.
Hope this is of some help. Sorry that I could not point to a definitive
answer that would say which is "correct."
73, Wes, W7ZOI
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> At 09:24 PM 1/11/02 -0500, Wes Clopton, wrote:
>
> >Now that Ham Radio and QST, QEX are completely on CD.
> >
> >I now have a good library of all issues in my desk drawer. I got
> >
> >rid of the box 's of heavy magazines a long time ago.
> >
> >Qst, Dec 1993 and HR June 87 have a couple of articles about DBM
> >
> > that make
> >
> >wonder if I may play around and see if it makes a difference.
>
> Well, I went back to all of my resource books, and looked at the
> diagrams that are offered for diode DBM configurations, and those
> references, about 8 of them, are equally split. Half show the
> IF port coming off the LO drive side, and the other half show
> the IF coming off the RF port side.
>
> From a practical point of view, either one seems to work well.
> I have my 2N2/40 mixer IF port coming off the LO side, and that
> rig can hear a signal down to -128 dBm. While there is some LO
> feedthrough, it is quite low, especially compared to the drive level.
>
> I also modelled both configurations, and the configuration with
> the IF port coming off the LO end of the DBM offers significantly
> lower (20 to 30 dB) high order mixing products. But I'm not all
> that confident that the models that I built are accurately simulating
> what is going on in a real mixer. I'm tempted to build up another
> 2N2/40 style DBM using 1N4148 diodes, and actually measure it in
> each configuration. That would be more believeable at this point.
>
> I'm delighted that Wes C. brought up the question of which configuration
> is correct. I'm certainly not an expert, and was relying on the
> RF design books in my library. As stated above, there doesn't seem
> to be much of a consensus. Maybe it is time to put this question
> to Wes, W7ZOI and see what he has to say. I'd sure be interested
> in his answer.
>
> >HANS,
> > The trifiler windings on T3 and T4 are necessary to maintain
> >
> >the unbalance to balance impedances at the input and output.
> >
> >The isolation between the RF and LO to the IF port is where my
> >
> >concern is.
>
> Good point Wes.......
>
> 72 to all, and I've copied W7ZOI on this email. Maybe Wes H.
> will have the time to comment, and we'll all learn.
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> ---
> Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.311 / Virus Database: 172 - Release Date: 12/27/01
Gang,
Built the pre-amp this evening that Jim posted. All I can say is it
makes a HUGE difference for me. My speaker volume was anemic, now it
blares!
If you aren't up to the Mute section, then I suggest you just build
this mod right into your rig as you go rather then do it later on a
sub-board like I did. I may attempt to find a spot on the rig and
build it in myself like I did the RIT.
Just worked a few Q's in the NA QSO Party; IA, MN and GA. Gonna stick
around for the remaining hour and try to work some more.
73,
John, N1QO
|
1461|1461|2002-01-13 00:02:30|n0dsp|VFO question|Hi Guys,
This is my question. Built 2N2 #2 and am now testing the VFO. (Was
on a roll with the building and didn't want to ruin it by seeing if
it worked) ;) What could I have reversed or hooked up wrong that
would have my VFO tuning from 2.085 to 1.999? I've reversed the
connections on my 10 turn pot with the same results... still tunied
down. Strong carrier... just can't get it to move the right
direction.
Thanks!
Tom
N0DSP
PS... Jim, I recieved #1 back via mail... thanks again. Since I was
almost done with #2 when I got it back, just went ahead and finished
building #2. Hope to have one complete one working soon.
|
1462|1462|2002-01-13 08:29:05|lmairs|John;s Excellent Pictures|I can't get the URL to open for your other website where the closeup
pictures of each stage of your 2n2-40 were posted. Have these been
moved to another site?
73 de Lee
km4yy
|
1463|1461|2002-01-13 09:33:48|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: VFO question|At 05:02 AM 1/13/02 +0000, Tom, N0DSP wrote:
>Hi Guys,
>
>This is my question. Built 2N2 #2 and am now testing the VFO. (Was
>on a roll with the building and didn't want to ruin it by seeing if
>it worked) ;) What could I have reversed or hooked up wrong that
>would have my VFO tuning from 2.085 to 1.999? I've reversed the
>connections on my 10 turn pot with the same results... still tunied
>down. Strong carrier... just can't get it to move the right
>direction.
Tom,
Maybe you have the pot wired in such that it is shorting out the
voltage supply that is feeding the pot. That's the only way I
can see that the tuning would remain the same, and adding capacitance
to lower the frequency. As the voltage on the tuning varicap goes
lower, the capacitance increases, lowering the VFO frequency.
72, and GL finding the problem. Glad #1 got back safely.
Jim, K8IQY
Hi guys,
Update on the VFO. I took two turns off of L1 and now have coverage
of 2.085 to 2.166.
Set up to check out the front end and can't seem to "tweak" TC2 or
TC3. They don't have any effect on the signal. I switched the
phasing of the 1 turn on T6 (see I did learn SOMETHING on 2N2 #1) and
still can't seem to change the signal. Guess I may need to start
removing toroids and rewinding them to be sure they are hooked up
properly. Sure would be great to have different color magnet wire.
I'll keep plugging away.
Thanks for your ear!
Tom
N0DSP
ps... I'm very proud of the way #2 looks.... now to get it working
and I'll be a happy camper!
|
1466|1465|2002-01-13 12:49:02|Lee Mairs|Re: VFO OK, now on to front end|I'm not sure that my front end is working either. The only thing I can hear
is a crystal test oscillator (7.040). I've built thru the if amplifier,
with each stage hoping that the radio would develop the ears for which it is
famous. I'm going to get another pair of eyes to look at it this week.
There must be something wrong; however, I sure can't find it!
73 de Lee
KM4YY
|
1467|1465|2002-01-13 13:27:44|n0dsp|Re: VFO OK, now on to front end|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs"
wrote:
> I'm not sure that my front end is working either. The only thing I
can hear
> is a crystal test oscillator (7.040).
Lee,
I can hear a signal at 7.050, generated by my K1 and also a signal
generator that I bought. But I can't see or hear anything different
(change)as I turn the TC4 and TC3. I am trying to be sure I am
listening to the correct carrier, since I seem to hear several. I
pulled out T3 and rewound it and guess I will redo others although I
don't think that is the problem. I was very careful when I put them
in.... of course that doesn't mean that much. Guess I'll recheck
after each one is redone. Not sure if the fact that I can't tweak
TC3 and TC4 would lead me to a specific one to redo.
Well, good luck!
Tom
N0DSPGang,
If you are one of the people who ordered a parts kit from me you will
need to be sure to check the transformer (T10) before installing it in
your radio.
I recently sent one to Jim for testing and he found that one of the
primary leads was shorted. I tested mine as well as a number of others
and found them to be OK. However since we know at least 1 out the 100
(that were donated, by the way) was bad it would be prudent for you to
check.
My measurements for the T10 I sent out are:
29 ohms from both primaries to tap
57.5 ohms across the primary
abt 0.8ohms on the secondary
If yours is bad, let me know and I'll you send another.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comTom -
You may have fallen into the same trap that I was in about a month ago -
using the QRP Reprint instead of just using the latest schematics posted on
the website. According to the schematic, (dated 11/15/2001) TC3 and TC4 are
in the VFO section. Varying the setting on either one will effect the VFO
frequency. What are you using for the schematic that says TC3 and TC4?
I think you are referring to the two trimmers in the Rx Input Filter.
Changing these has a definite effect on my radio. In fact, the tuning is
relatively sharp, so if you can hear the signal generator or the K1, then
tuning these should make a big difference in signal.
Strange isn't it. I can't get my radio running, yet I'm giving you
advice...
73 de Lee
km4yy
One may have a blazing hearth in one's soul and yet no one ever comes to sit
by it. Passersby see only a wisp of smoke rising from the chimney and
continue
on their way.
--Vincent Van Gogh
----- Original Message -----
From: "n0dsp" <n0dsp@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 1:27 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: VFO OK, now on to front end
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> > I'm not sure that my front end is working either. The only thing I
> can hear
> > is a crystal test oscillator (7.040).
>
> Lee,
>
> I can hear a signal at 7.050, generated by my K1 and also a signal
> generator that I bought. But I can't see or hear anything different
> (change)as I turn the TC4 and TC3. I am trying to be sure I am
> listening to the correct carrier, since I seem to hear several. I
> pulled out T3 and rewound it and guess I will redo others although I
> don't think that is the problem. I was very careful when I put them
> in.... of course that doesn't mean that much. Guess I'll recheck
> after each one is redone. Not sure if the fact that I can't tweak
> TC3 and TC4 would lead me to a specific one to redo.
>
> Well, good luck!
>
> Tom
> N0DSP
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs"
wrote:
> Tom -
> You may have fallen into the same trap that I was in about a month
ago -
> using the QRP Reprint instead of just using the latest schematics
posted on
> the website. According to the schematic, (dated 11/15/2001) TC3
and TC4 are
> in the VFO section. Varying the setting on either one will effect
the VFO
> frequency. What are you using for the schematic that says TC3 and
TC4?
Sorry Lee,
Tou are correct. The caps that I am trying to adjust are TC1 and TC2
in the "Input Filter". These should peak the signal and so far do
not have any noticeable difference. Guess It would make it easier
for you guys to help me if I refered to the proper component
numbers. I am using Jim's schematics dated 11-15-01.
Thanks!
Tom
N0DSPTom -
TC1 an TC2 definitely should peak the signal. They have a big impact on my
signal - be my radio pretty deaf.
Some of the guys reported problems with those back-to-back diodes that
precede point B on the schematic. I don't have the actual designations here
now, but it is on page 4 of the schematics.
Jim Kortge is really good about helping out, so I'm sure he will have better
suggestions when he gets some time.
73 de Lee
km4yy
> Tou are correct. The caps that I am trying to adjust are TC1 and TC2
> in the "Input Filter". These should peak the signal and so far do
> not have any noticeable difference. Guess It would make it easier
> for you guys to help me if I refered to the proper component
> numbers. I am using Jim's schematics dated 11-15-01.
At 11:36 PM 1/13/02 -0500, Lee, km4yy wrote:
>Tom -
>TC1 an TC2 definitely should peak the signal. They have a big impact on my
>signal - be my radio pretty deaf.
>Some of the guys reported problems with those back-to-back diodes that
>precede point B on the schematic.
That pair of diodes is D25 and D26. If either of them is shorted,
not signal makes it to the tuned circuits that are peaked with
TC1 and TC2.
> I don't have the actual designations here
>now, but it is on page 4 of the schematics.
See above......
>Jim Kortge is really good about helping out, so I'm sure he will have better
>suggestions when he gets some time.
Well 'ol Jim is running out of ideas. The front-end of the 2N2/40+
is straight forward. A T/R switch, and a lightly coupled, double tuned,
input bandpass filter. If you wind the toroids correctly, and hook
everything up correctly, and use the right value components, it will
work every time. I'll guranteed it!! :-) If you get just the T/R
switch built, and the Rx input filter, you can connect an antenna
to port "A" of the T/R switch, and connect a 40 meter receiver to
the secondary of T2, the 3 turn link, and peak the whole front-end
up on band noise, or a signal on 40 meters. The same thing can be
done if you've also added the RF amp, then take the output off of
C15 into your 40 meter receiver, and peak up TC1 and TC2. With
the RF amp running, the signals should be louder than with the
output coming directly off of the T2 secondary.
Maybe the above will help someone......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim and the gang -
My 2N2-40 sprouted big ears this morning, tho I'm at a loss to see exactly
why. I cleaned up some crud (remnant from flux cleaning) in the diode
bridge area of the DBM and re-soldered the diode bridge components. I had
the radio in a new spot with different lighting and noticed the junk in
there. I also think I may have been feeding the rf output from the 2N2-40
to the station transceiver through the station's Triton rf power amplifier!
A bit of attenuation there maybe... This might also explain why the radio
seemed to work when I was in WV and only had the IC 751A to work with.
Anyway the moral of the story is the dumber the mistake, the harder it is to
find!
Receiver LO and product detector is finished and working. Ready for the
final push to complete the receiver today.
Man! Am I happy when that damn thing works!
73 de Lee
km4yy
|
1475|1475|2002-01-15 17:49:54|Lee Mairs|Audio Amp question|What is the purpose of the 0.082 capacitor across collectors and the primary
of the audio output transformer? I assume a 0.1 would be an OK substitute.
73 de Lee, km4yy
Error of opinion may be tolerated where reason is left free to combat it.
-- Thomas Jefferson
|
1476|1475|2002-01-15 20:08:50|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Audio Amp question|At 05:53 PM 1/15/02 -0500, you wrote:
>What is the purpose of the 0.082 capacitor across collectors and the primary
>of the audio output transformer?
Tunes the primary of the transformer to 750 Hz so that it does
a bit of filtering.
> I assume a 0.1 would be an OK substitute.
Close enough if you don't have the correct value, or the transformer
you used is different from mine.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Very interesting. Is the general idea that one measure the inductance
across the entire primary, and then calculate the C value needed for
parallel resonance at 750 hz?
73 de Lee
km4yy
(Still happy has a clam...)
|
1478|1475|2002-01-16 12:03:53|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Audio Amp question|At 09:14 PM 1/15/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Very interesting. Is the general idea that one measure the inductance
>across the entire primary, and then calculate the C value needed for
>parallel resonance at 750 hz?
That's it exactly Lee. Adds some selectivity, and rolls off the
upper end of the audio spectrum, so the hiss is reduced.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Can one of the participants in the 2N2-40 parts buy from John Wagner, N1QO,
who hasn't soldered in their audio transformer measure the inductance across
the complete primary (the outer two of the three leads)?
I'd like to do the calculations Jim refers to below, so that I can calculate
the necessary parallel capacitor. (You can tell I don't have a 0.083ufd in
my junk box?)
73 de Lee
km4yy
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Audio Amp question
> At 09:14 PM 1/15/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Very interesting. Is the general idea that one measure the inductance
> >across the entire primary, and then calculate the C value needed for
> >parallel resonance at 750 hz?
>
> That's it exactly Lee. Adds some selectivity, and rolls off the
> upper end of the audio spectrum, so the hiss is reduced.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
From my prior message;
My measurements for the T10 I sent out are:
29 ohms from both primaries to tap
57.5 ohms across the primary
abt 0.8ohms on the secondary
73,
John, N1QO
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> Can one of the participants in the 2N2-40 parts buy from John Wagner, N1QO,
> who hasn't soldered in their audio transformer measure the inductance across
> the complete primary (the outer two of the three leads)?
> I'd like to do the calculations Jim refers to below, so that I can calculate
> the necessary parallel capacitor. (You can tell I don't have a 0.083ufd in
> my junk box?)
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Audio Amp question
>
> > At 09:14 PM 1/15/02 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> > >Very interesting. Is the general idea that one measure the inductance
> > >across the entire primary, and then calculate the C value needed for
> > >parallel resonance at 750 hz?
> >
> > That's it exactly Lee. Adds some selectivity, and rolls off the
> > upper end of the audio spectrum, so the hiss is reduced.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJohn -
I need to verify the inductance, not resistance. I measured the one I have
in the circuit as 1.6 henrys. That seems high to me so I want to check with
someone who has the transformer out of the circuit. I've got one of those
handy inductance/capacitance meters from All Digital...
73 de Lee
km4yy
Government is beating into submission, imprisoning, and killing...The
authority of
man-made law is entirely due to weapons of the constables who enforce
obedience to
its provisions.
--Ludwig von Mises
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Audio Amp question
> From my prior message;
>
> My measurements for the T10 I sent out are:
> 29 ohms from both primaries to tap
> 57.5 ohms across the primary
> abt 0.8ohms on the secondary
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> Lee Mairs wrote:
> >
> > Can one of the participants in the 2N2-40 parts buy from John Wagner,
N1QO,
> > who hasn't soldered in their audio transformer measure the inductance
across
> > the complete primary (the outer two of the three leads)?
> > I'd like to do the calculations Jim refers to below, so that I can
calculate
> > the necessary parallel capacitor. (You can tell I don't have a 0.083ufd
in
> > my junk box?)
> > 73 de Lee
> > km4yy
> >
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Audio Amp question
> >
> > > At 09:14 PM 1/15/02 -0500, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >Very interesting. Is the general idea that one measure the
inductance
> > > >across the entire primary, and then calculate the C value needed for
> > > >parallel resonance at 750 hz?
> > >
> > > That's it exactly Lee. Adds some selectivity, and rolls off the
> > > upper end of the audio spectrum, so the hiss is reduced.
> > >
> > > 72,
> > >
> > > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Lee I measure 1.55 hy also......
wes
At 06:07 PM 1/16/02, you wrote:
>John -
>I need to verify the inductance, not resistance. I measured the one I have
>in the circuit as 1.6 henrys. That seems high to me so I want to check with
>someone who has the transformer out of the circuit. I've got one of those
>handy inductance/capacitance meters from All Digital...
>73 de Lee
>km4yy
>
>Government is beating into submission, imprisoning, and killing...The
>authority of
>man-made law is entirely due to weapons of the constables who enforce
>obedience to
>its provisions.
> --Ludwig von Mises
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
>To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 5:21 PM
>Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Audio Amp question
>
>
> > From my prior message;
> >
> > My measurements for the T10 I sent out are:
> > 29 ohms from both primaries to tap
> > 57.5 ohms across the primary
> > abt 0.8ohms on the secondary
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > John, N1QO
> >
> > Lee Mairs wrote:
> > >
> > > Can one of the participants in the 2N2-40 parts buy from John Wagner,
>N1QO,
> > > who hasn't soldered in their audio transformer measure the inductance
>across
> > > the complete primary (the outer two of the three leads)?
> > > I'd like to do the calculations Jim refers to below, so that I can
>calculate
> > > the necessary parallel capacitor. (You can tell I don't have a 0.083ufd
>in
> > > my junk box?)
> > > 73 de Lee
> > > km4yy
> > >
> > > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Audio Amp question
> > >
> > > > At 09:14 PM 1/15/02 -0500, you wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >Very interesting. Is the general idea that one measure the
>inductance
> > > > >across the entire primary, and then calculate the C value needed for
> > > > >parallel resonance at 750 hz?
> > > >
> > > > That's it exactly Lee. Adds some selectivity, and rolls off the
> > > > upper end of the audio spectrum, so the hiss is reduced.
> > > >
> > > > 72,
> > > >
> > > > Jim, K8IQY
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> > --
> > John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> > Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Wes Clopton
5202 Colebrook Dr
La Plata, MD 20646
Ill be more concise....I measured 3.2 HY FROM center tap to
each side of primary. And 1.6 hy across total primary winding....
Im using a AADE L/C METER ALSO....
wES
At 06:44 PM 1/16/02, you wrote:
>Lee I measure 1.55 hy also......
>
>wes
>
>
>At 06:07 PM 1/16/02, you wrote:
> >John -
> >I need to verify the inductance, not resistance. I measured the one I have
> >in the circuit as 1.6 henrys. That seems high to me so I want to check with
> >someone who has the transformer out of the circuit. I've got one of those
> >handy inductance/capacitance meters from All Digital...
> >73 de Lee
> >km4yy
> >
> > > > km4yy
> > > >
> > > > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Audio Amp question
> > > >
> > > > > At 09:14 PM 1/15/02 -0500, you wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > >Very interesting. Is the general idea that one measure the
> >inductance
> > > > > >across the entire primary, and then calculate the C value needed for
> > > > > >parallel resonance at 750 hz?
> > > > >
> > > > > That's it exactly Lee. Adds some selectivity, and rolls off the
> > > > > upper end of the audio spectrum, so the hiss is reduced.
> > > > >
> > > > > 72,
> > > > >
> > > > > Jim, K8IQY
> > > >
> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> >http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > > --
> > > John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> > > Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>Wes Clopton
>5202 Colebrook Dr
>La Plata, MD 20646
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Wes Clopton
5202 Colebrook Dr
La Plata, MD 20646
The more I study this little audio transformer , Im more puzzled.....
I get the same resistance readings as John....The hy reading are out of
range for my L/C meter.....but i also measure 375 pf from CT to each side
of primary
................weird........
Wes
>snip..erms/
Wes Clopton
5202 Colebrook Dr
La Plata, MD 20646
My bad... read twice, respond once. ;)
I have four of them in front of me. The average inductance across the
primary is 257mH.
I'm using a Wavetek 27XT for measuring.
73,
John, N1QO
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> John -
> I need to verify the inductance, not resistance. I measured the one I have
> in the circuit as 1.6 henrys. That seems high to me so I want to check with
> someone who has the transformer out of the circuit. I've got one of those
> handy inductance/capacitance meters from All Digital...
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
> Government is beating into submission, imprisoning, and killing...The
> authority of
> man-made law is entirely due to weapons of the constables who enforce
> obedience to
> its provisions.
> --Ludwig von Mises
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 5:21 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Audio Amp question
>
> > From my prior message;
> >
> > My measurements for the T10 I sent out are:
> > 29 ohms from both primaries to tap
> > 57.5 ohms across the primary
> > abt 0.8ohms on the secondary
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > John, N1QO
> >
> > Lee Mairs wrote:
> > >
> > > Can one of the participants in the 2N2-40 parts buy from John Wagner,
> N1QO,
> > > who hasn't soldered in their audio transformer measure the inductance
> across
> > > the complete primary (the outer two of the three leads)?
> > > I'd like to do the calculations Jim refers to below, so that I can
> calculate
> > > the necessary parallel capacitor. (You can tell I don't have a 0.083ufd
> in
> > > my junk box?)
> > > 73 de Lee
> > > km4yy
> > >
> > > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Audio Amp question
> > >
> > > > At 09:14 PM 1/15/02 -0500, you wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >Very interesting. Is the general idea that one measure the
> inductance
> > > > >across the entire primary, and then calculate the C value needed for
> > > > >parallel resonance at 750 hz?
> > > >
> > > > That's it exactly Lee. Adds some selectivity, and rolls off the
> > > > upper end of the audio spectrum, so the hiss is reduced.
> > > >
> > > > 72,
> > > >
> > > > Jim, K8IQY
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> > --
> > John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> > Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comIt always amazes me how the act of explaining what you've been doing opens
your eyes to what you actually did. A couple of very productive hours with
Jake, N4UY, and we got my receiver section going. I was sure it was still
inop and almost fell off the chair when all of a sudden Jake tuned across a
signal. Now I know what you mean by a "quiet"! I doubt if the extra audio
stage is necessary now, even tho I left room for it on the board.
I had mis-identified two leads in the Product Detector transformer T9. We
re-wound a new toroid as I want to keep the old one in front of me as a
reminder, and started hearing things - but very weak. I next found lead #6
on T3 floating loose, and the signals picked up quite a bit. Later when I
got home I found another possible loose connection (either lead 3 or lead 6
in T4) so the radio hears a bit better now.
One problem that still defies me is a very loud birdy when tuning the VFO to
2.1064 at 7.021. Got any ideas about why this might be? Or more
important - how to fix the problem.
73 de Lee
km4yy
|
1487|1487|2002-01-18 16:54:45|k8iqy|Transformer Inductance|Gang,
John, N1QO sent me a sample of 5 of the group buy transformers,to
measure. These are the ones that have the yellow band around the
middle, and I believe came from "Snort Solder" Steve.
I measured them, and the average primary inductance by my method is
0.3066 Henry, or 306.6 millihenries. So, if you use one of these in
the audio amplifier as T10, you'll need to make C37 a 0.15 uF
capacitor to resonate it at 750 Hz, and 0.22 uF to resonate it at 600
Hz. Anything in between, you can compute the required capacitance
from picking your favorite CW listening frequency, and knowing the
above inductance value.
All of the samples are different from each other, but not grossly.
Kinda in the relm of what I guess I would expect for producting parts.
The primary resistance measures nominally 58 ohms, and the secondary
at 0.8 ohms for reference.
If anyone is interested in the method that I used to measure these,
just ask, and I'll post that information to the group also. You
can't measure them with an AADE meter, as the inductance is too high
for that instrument, or the resistance. Mine goes nuts when I tried
to measure one.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
1488|1487|2002-01-18 17:06:24|Lee Mairs|Re: Transformer Inductance|Jim -
I am very interested in how you finally calculated the inductance. My AADE
meter and Wes Clopton independently with his got the measurement without any
indication anything was flaky.
72 de Lee
They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who
dream only by night .
--Edgar Allen Poe
----- Original Message -----
From: "k8iqy" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 4:54 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Transformer Inductance
> Gang,
>
> John, N1QO sent me a sample of 5 of the group buy transformers,to
> measure. These are the ones that have the yellow band around the
> middle, and I believe came from "Snort Solder" Steve.
>
> I measured them, and the average primary inductance by my method is
> 0.3066 Henry, or 306.6 millihenries. So, if you use one of these in
> the audio amplifier as T10, you'll need to make C37 a 0.15 uF
> capacitor to resonate it at 750 Hz, and 0.22 uF to resonate it at 600
> Hz. Anything in between, you can compute the required capacitance
> from picking your favorite CW listening frequency, and knowing the
> above inductance value.
>
> All of the samples are different from each other, but not grossly.
> Kinda in the relm of what I guess I would expect for producting parts.
>
> The primary resistance measures nominally 58 ohms, and the secondary
> at 0.8 ohms for reference.
>
> If anyone is interested in the method that I used to measure these,
> just ask, and I'll post that information to the group also. You
> can't measure them with an AADE meter, as the inductance is too high
> for that instrument, or the resistance. Mine goes nuts when I tried
> to measure one.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
At 04:10 PM 1/18/02 -0500, Lee, km4yy wrote:
>It always amazes me how the act of explaining what you've been doing opens
>your eyes to what you actually did. A couple of very productive hours with
>Jake, N4UY, and we got my receiver section going. I was sure it was still
>inop and almost fell off the chair when all of a sudden Jake tuned across a
>signal. Now I know what you mean by a "quiet"!
Told you......very quiet until a signal is in the passband.
> I doubt if the extra audio
>stage is necessary now, even tho I left room for it on the board.
Nice to have for digging out the DX stations in the noise though!
>I had mis-identified two leads in the Product Detector transformer T9. We
>re-wound a new toroid as I want to keep the old one in front of me as a
>reminder, and started hearing things - but very weak. I next found lead #6
>on T3 floating loose, and the signals picked up quite a bit. Later when I
>got home I found another possible loose connection (either lead 3 or lead 6
>in T4) so the radio hears a bit better now.
Boy, sounds like the DBM wasn't well balanced, nor had some critical
connections in the beginning. Glad you found those.
>One problem that still defies me is a very loud birdy when tuning the VFO to
>2.1064 at 7.021. Got any ideas about why this might be?
The only spurs that register with Wes Hayward's SPURTUNE program
is the 2nd harmonic of the incomming RF beating against the 9th
harmonic of the LO. I don't believe it's that, but those are the
only frequencies that match up with what you hear. I've got the
same birdies, and have never found the source. Fortunately, mine
are barely audible, so really not a problem, but others have reported
much stronger birdies. If anyone figures this mystery out, I'd sure
like to hear the details.
> Or more
>important - how to fix the problem.
Not a clue! You might try some partitions around the VFO, but
I doubt that will do any good.
72 and thanks for the report Lee; Glad the rig is getting ears.
Jim, K8IQY
At 05:10 PM 1/18/02 -0500, Lee wrote:
>Jim -
>I am very interested in how you finally calculated the inductance.
I did it by measuring a 0.22uF capacitor with the AADE, so that I knew
what is really was. Hooked that capacitor in series with the primary
of the transformer, and drove that series combination with a digital
signal generator through a 1K resistor. A 400EL AC voltmeter was also
connected across the series capacitor/transformer primary inductance,
and used to detect the null as the frequency was varied. The capacitor
and inductance in series form a series resonant circuit, and at resonance
are a very low impedance, so most of the driving voltage is dropped
across the 1K resistor. Once the null frequencies were determined for the
set of transformers, I calculated the average resonant frequency. Then
using the formula L = 1/[4*Pi^2*F^2*C], the nominal inductance of the
sample set was computed. For those who have followed along so far, the
0.22uF capacitor had a measured value of 0.2235uF, the average frequency
for resonance was 608 Hz, and if I did the math correctly, that makes
the average inductance come out to 0.3066 Henry.
Just for grins, I put those values into an Electronic Workbench model,
and confirmed that the null ought to be nominally 610 Hz. That's as close
as I can read from the simulation.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS...I thought Wes had measured something like 1.6 Henry with his AADE
for the primary inductance, and John measured something like 275 uH.
I don't know how John did his measurement.
Jim -
Got to thinking about my problem. I'm not sure that I described it
correctly. The internally generated signal (birdie/spur?) is an easy S8-9,
very few real CW signals are louder (tho some are). The VFO is at 2.1064
Mhz (read with a Ramsey freq counter) so I assume the signal would appear on
the dial at 7.021. This signal is so strong that I can hear it coming and
going whereas real CW signals decrease as the VFO increases (rotating R10
clockwise) and you cannot hear the signal increase in tone after zero beat.
The signal is there whether the antenna is connected or not. I also hear a
much softer hissing noise in at least two other spots (higher in freq say
7.050). I have not measured the VFO to determine these frequencies since
they are not nearly as objectionable.
Can this signal be caused by the Vcc lines feeding each stage? I remember
that one should keep RF away from power supply sections and inputs away from
outputs. I wonder if I've deviated in the way I'm feeding Vcc to each of
the stages in such a matter as to cause such a loud internally generated
signal.
Right now I have the power coming in from the plug to the audio amp, thence
to R1/C5 in the VFO. Here two lines break off: (1) goes to Q22 collector in
the Rx/Tx Driver thence to R12 in the RF Amp preceding the DBM.
The second line goes to the collector of Q2 in the VFO and then splits with
one line heading South to the mixer amp L6/R22 and R39 and the other line
going west to the if amplifier's R34, and then continuing west to the rx LO,
R35. This last line is tucked down on the board running right next to T9,
C19,D17,D11, under C27 to the connection pad at R35. All of the Vcc lines
run close to the top of the pc material (like they were traces).
Do you think it might be worth the effort to re-run all the Vcc lines so
that they are connected to the same point on the board; i.e., to a pad
coming right from the power connecter with individual lines fanning out to
the various stages?
If not, what/which components should I investigate changing? I don't know
much about this (other than the math), but I'm willing to delay building the
transmitter in order to chase this down for awhile.
I am totally gassed by this entire project! Bless the guy who first
invented Manhattan-style building. I haven't build anything in 30 years,
and I still cannot believe I built something as complicated as a superhet
receiver and a high performance one at that. It is much quieter than either
my IC 751A or the IC 781 - a fact that I originally attributed to no/low
gain. This is one of the most fun things as well as the most educational
thing I've done since getting a license in 1958. Thank you again for all
your patient efforts! You ought to get ham of the year for this.
73 de Lee. KM4YY
Democracy, for example, arises out of the notion that those who are
equal in any respect are equal in all respects; because men are
equally free, they claim to be absolutely equal.
--Aristotle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 7:13 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Receiver now working...almost
> At 04:10 PM 1/18/02 -0500, Lee, km4yy wrote:
>
> >It always amazes me how the act of explaining what you've been doing
opens
> >your eyes to what you actually did. A couple of very productive hours
with
> >Jake, N4UY, and we got my receiver section going. I was sure it was
still
> >inop and almost fell off the chair when all of a sudden Jake tuned across
a
> >signal. Now I know what you mean by a "quiet"!
>
> Told you......very quiet until a signal is in the passband.
>
> > I doubt if the extra audio
> >stage is necessary now, even tho I left room for it on the board.
>
> Nice to have for digging out the DX stations in the noise though!
>
>
> >I had mis-identified two leads in the Product Detector transformer T9.
We
> >re-wound a new toroid as I want to keep the old one in front of me as a
> >reminder, and started hearing things - but very weak. I next found lead
#6
> >on T3 floating loose, and the signals picked up quite a bit. Later when
I
> >got home I found another possible loose connection (either lead 3 or lead
6
> >in T4) so the radio hears a bit better now.
>
> Boy, sounds like the DBM wasn't well balanced, nor had some critical
> connections in the beginning. Glad you found those.
>
>
> >One problem that still defies me is a very loud birdy when tuning the VFO
to
> >2.1064 at 7.021. Got any ideas about why this might be?
>
> The only spurs that register with Wes Hayward's SPURTUNE program
> is the 2nd harmonic of the incomming RF beating against the 9th
> harmonic of the LO. I don't believe it's that, but those are the
> only frequencies that match up with what you hear. I've got the
> same birdies, and have never found the source. Fortunately, mine
> are barely audible, so really not a problem, but others have reported
> much stronger birdies. If anyone figures this mystery out, I'd sure
> like to hear the details.
>
> > Or more
> >important - how to fix the problem.
>
> Not a clue! You might try some partitions around the VFO, but
> I doubt that will do any good.
>
> 72 and thanks for the report Lee; Glad the rig is getting ears.
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Jim,
I have a question about the signals that posted to the group. The
Reciever signals with a 20mV input.
The scope signal at D25/D26 junction (VFO off) shows a 100mV signal,
if I am reading it correctly. I only get the same signal as at the
previous stage, i.e. 20mV at port "A". Is this correct?
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|
1493|1493|2002-01-19 13:21:19|Howard Kraus|Re: Parts Question - Capacitors|Mouser has one of small size that I used in both my
2N2/40s. Their P/N 21RZ320 was current in the summer
of 1999 when I built them, but doesn't show in their
current catalog. It may show on their website, as do
other parts that aren't in the catalog.
GL es 72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- n3knz <
jgbur@ptd.net> wrote:
> I have a question about the .2 uf caps (c7, c8 etc.)
> I am curious
> where someone found these in a reasonably small
> package. If you have
> the source and part number, please post. I saw the
> post about
> substituting .1 monolithic instead, so if someone
> has a good source
> and part number for small monolithic .1 that would
> do also. The ones
> I initially selected take up more space than I would
> like. Thanks,
> John Gbur N3KNZ.
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/At 05:14 PM 1/19/02 +0000, Kevin, KC8SFJ wrote:
>Jim,
>I have a question about the signals that posted to the group. The
>Reciever signals with a 20mV input.
>The scope signal at D25/D26 junction (VFO off) shows a 100mV signal,
>if I am reading it correctly.
Yes, you are reading it correctly. It shows 100 mv peak-peak
at the junction of D25/D26 with 20 mv peak-peak of drive at port
"A". It will only provide the stepup in voltage if the driving
source is 50 ohms. If your signal generator is way higher than
that, then the voltage amplification won't be as much.
> I only get the same signal as at the
>previous stage, i.e. 20mV at port "A". Is this correct?
Doesn't sound like it. Could be a problem with the diodes,
the tuning of TC9 not correct, or the downstream load on
that circuitry not correct. That latter could come about from
POT5, the RF gain control, not being wired in correctly, not set
to minimium attenuation, or the input filter or RF amplifier not
being correct. If the RF amp is correct, it has a 50 ohm input.
So does the Rx input filter taken as a whole. If they are connected
together, the 50 ohm input of the RF amp is carried forward to port
"B", and properly loads the output of the RX T/R switch.
I know all of the above is a lot to check out, but that's how the
Rx T/R switch is able to amplifiy the voltage on its input.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 09:58 PM 1/18/02 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>Jim -
>Got to thinking about my problem. I'm not sure that I described it
>correctly. The internally generated signal (birdie/spur?) is an easy S8-9,
>very few real CW signals are louder (tho some are). The VFO is at 2.1064
>Mhz (read with a Ramsey freq counter) so I assume the signal would appear on
>the dial at 7.021. This signal is so strong that I can hear it coming and
>going whereas real CW signals decrease as the VFO increases (rotating R10
>clockwise) and you cannot hear the signal increase in tone after zero beat.
>The signal is there whether the antenna is connected or not. I also hear a
>much softer hissing noise in at least two other spots (higher in freq say
>7.050). I have not measured the VFO to determine these frequencies since
>they are not nearly as objectionable.
Well that's the same birdie that I've got in mine, but it's not
anywhere that strong, not even S0. The reason that you are hearing
it coming and going is that it is either getting generated AFTER the xtal
filter, or getting generated BEFORE the filter, but is reversing it's
direction at zero beat. That would make it come into the filter from
the high frequency side, and exit the same way, that's why you don't
hear it being attenuated on the other side of zero beat. I suspect
the former case to be the true condition, but don't know 'cause I've
never figured this one out.
>Can this signal be caused by the Vcc lines feeding each stage?
Possibly. Everything is suspect when you don't know the cause, and
I don't.
> I remember
>that one should keep RF away from power supply sections and inputs away from
>outputs. I wonder if I've deviated in the way I'm feeding Vcc to each of
>the stages in such a matter as to cause such a loud internally generated
>signal.
I suppose it is a possibility Lee.
>Right now I have the power coming in from the plug to the audio amp, thence
>to R1/C5 in the VFO. Here two lines break off: (1) goes to Q22 collector in
>the Rx/Tx Driver thence to R12 in the RF Amp preceding the DBM.
>The second line goes to the collector of Q2 in the VFO and then splits with
>one line heading South to the mixer amp L6/R22 and R39 and the other line
>going west to the if amplifier's R34, and then continuing west to the rx LO,
>R35. This last line is tucked down on the board running right next to T9,
>C19,D17,D11, under C27 to the connection pad at R35. All of the Vcc lines
>run close to the top of the pc material (like they were traces).
Sounds similar to the way I wired mine, and others probably have done too.
>Do you think it might be worth the effort to re-run all the Vcc lines so
>that they are connected to the same point on the board; i.e., to a pad
>coming right from the power connecter with individual lines fanning out to
>the various stages?
Doing the Vcc wiring that way should improve the situation, but is a
lot of extra work at this point. Good instrumentation practices would
have it wired that way.
>If not, what/which components should I investigate changing? I don't know
>much about this (other than the math), but I'm willing to delay building the
>transmitter in order to chase this down for awhile.
Can't suggest anything Lee. As I stated earlier, I don't know what
is causing this birdie in your rig, or mine, or others. The VFO
and IF frequencies were very carefully picked so as not to have
any birdies over the 100 KHz passband of the rig. Mine still has two
of them, and I've never figured out what was causing them.
>I am totally gassed by this entire project! Bless the guy who first
>invented Manhattan-style building.
That wasn't me, but I'll take a little bit of credit for promoting its
use, and showing folks it is a very viable way to build good performing
gear without a lot of PC board fuss.
> I haven't build anything in 30 years,
>and I still cannot believe I built something as complicated as a superhet
>receiver and a high performance one at that. It is much quieter than either
>my IC 751A or the IC 781 - a fact that I originally attributed to no/low
>gain.
Its because it is all analog and built entirely over copper. Makes a
huge difference in circulating RF currents, or the lack of, which
contribute to being quiet.
> This is one of the most fun things as well as the most educational
>thing I've done since getting a license in 1958. Thank you again for all
>your patient efforts! You ought to get ham of the year for this.
I'd settle for a QRP Hall of Fame nomination!! :-)
72 and GL. Keep us all informed of any progress you make concerning
the birdie. Sorry I don't have any better answers.
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
After Lee's post, and my less than adequate answer, I decided
to tackle this thing one more time. With the aid of SPURTUNE,
I think I've got if figured out. The lower spur is coming from
the mixing of the LO 2nd harmonic, and the VFO 7th harmonic,
and the one up at the top end of the band is coming from the
LO 3rd harmonic, and the VFO 9th harmonic.
Now, the harmonics in my VFO are very low, but that's not
true for the LO. The 2nd harmonic is only down 15 dB below
the fundemantal, the 3rd down 30 dB, and the 4th down 25 dB.
I belive if these harmonics can be reduced, then the spurs will
also reduce.
If you look at the schematic of the LO, the output is taken from
the emitter of Q8, through a voltage divider comprised of a 560
ohm resistor, and a 150 ohm resistor. From that junction, a
0.01 cap carries the signal to a parallel tuned circuit comprised
of a 220 pF capacitor, and a 4.7 uH inductor. That parallel tuned
circuit was supposed to control the LO harmonics, and if you have
good component tolerances, you get the attenuation levels that are
shown above. But, the Q of the tuned circuit is quite low, as it
is being loaded by the LO input of the product detector, so its
effectiveness on harmonic reduction is marginal at best.
A better solution is a low pass filter. I've got one designed up,
and will install it in the rig tomorrow. If it works as expected,
I'll post the results on the reflector, along with a schematic.
If it doesn't work, then the investigation will continue.
Anybody not having fun yet! This is the good stuff guys and gals.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
1497|1496|2002-01-19 21:14:44|Lee Mairs|Re: 2N2/40+ Receive Spurs|Jim -
I love it when the theory agrees with the real world. I originally
constructed the Rx LO with L4 and C19 coming off the pin 1 pad at T9. The
.01ufd C34 stretched from this point back and down to the pad for R16/R15 -
about 1.5 inches.
This afternoon (before getting your messages) I set a new pad close to the
LO R16/R15 and moved L4 and C19 away from the pad for T9 pin 1 by that 1.5
inch. I then connected from the LO to T9 pin one with a short piece of coax
grounded only at the LO end. The result was a dramatic reduction in the
loudest birdie! No problem copying the contest stations operating there
now. I haven't checked the quieter hashy noise at the top of the band yet.
This is really fun now!
73 de Lee
km4yy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 8:43 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2/40+ Receive Spurs
> Gang,
>
> After Lee's post, and my less than adequate answer, I decided
> to tackle this thing one more time. With the aid of SPURTUNE,
> I think I've got if figured out. The lower spur is coming from
> the mixing of the LO 2nd harmonic, and the VFO 7th harmonic,
> and the one up at the top end of the band is coming from the
> LO 3rd harmonic, and the VFO 9th harmonic.
>
> Now, the harmonics in my VFO are very low, but that's not
> true for the LO. The 2nd harmonic is only down 15 dB below
> the fundemantal, the 3rd down 30 dB, and the 4th down 25 dB.
> I belive if these harmonics can be reduced, then the spurs will
> also reduce.
>
> If you look at the schematic of the LO, the output is taken from
> the emitter of Q8, through a voltage divider comprised of a 560
> ohm resistor, and a 150 ohm resistor. From that junction, a
> 0.01 cap carries the signal to a parallel tuned circuit comprised
> of a 220 pF capacitor, and a 4.7 uH inductor. That parallel tuned
> circuit was supposed to control the LO harmonics, and if you have
> good component tolerances, you get the attenuation levels that are
> shown above. But, the Q of the tuned circuit is quite low, as it
> is being loaded by the LO input of the product detector, so its
> effectiveness on harmonic reduction is marginal at best.
>
> A better solution is a low pass filter. I've got one designed up,
> and will install it in the rig tomorrow. If it works as expected,
> I'll post the results on the reflector, along with a schematic.
> If it doesn't work, then the investigation will continue.
>
> Anybody not having fun yet! This is the good stuff guys and gals.
I just noticed that my audio transformer in the 2N2-40 is running very hot -
to hot to touch. These are the ones from John Wagner. Has anyone else
noticed this?
73 de Lee
km4yy
Show me a sane man and I will cure him for you.
--C. G. Jung
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 9:18 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/40+ Receive Spurs
> Jim -
> I love it when the theory agrees with the real world. I originally
> constructed the Rx LO with L4 and C19 coming off the pin 1 pad at T9. The
> .01ufd C34 stretched from this point back and down to the pad for
R16/R15 -
> about 1.5 inches.
>
> This afternoon (before getting your messages) I set a new pad close to the
> LO R16/R15 and moved L4 and C19 away from the pad for T9 pin 1 by that 1.5
> inch. I then connected from the LO to T9 pin one with a short piece of
coax
> grounded only at the LO end. The result was a dramatic reduction in the
> loudest birdie! No problem copying the contest stations operating there
> now. I haven't checked the quieter hashy noise at the top of the band
yet.
>
> This is really fun now!
>
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 8:43 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2/40+ Receive Spurs
>
>
> > Gang,
> >
> > After Lee's post, and my less than adequate answer, I decided
> > to tackle this thing one more time. With the aid of SPURTUNE,
> > I think I've got if figured out. The lower spur is coming from
> > the mixing of the LO 2nd harmonic, and the VFO 7th harmonic,
> > and the one up at the top end of the band is coming from the
> > LO 3rd harmonic, and the VFO 9th harmonic.
> >
> > Now, the harmonics in my VFO are very low, but that's not
> > true for the LO. The 2nd harmonic is only down 15 dB below
> > the fundemantal, the 3rd down 30 dB, and the 4th down 25 dB.
> > I belive if these harmonics can be reduced, then the spurs will
> > also reduce.
> >
> > If you look at the schematic of the LO, the output is taken from
> > the emitter of Q8, through a voltage divider comprised of a 560
> > ohm resistor, and a 150 ohm resistor. From that junction, a
> > 0.01 cap carries the signal to a parallel tuned circuit comprised
> > of a 220 pF capacitor, and a 4.7 uH inductor. That parallel tuned
> > circuit was supposed to control the LO harmonics, and if you have
> > good component tolerances, you get the attenuation levels that are
> > shown above. But, the Q of the tuned circuit is quite low, as it
> > is being loaded by the LO input of the product detector, so its
> > effectiveness on harmonic reduction is marginal at best.
> >
> > A better solution is a low pass filter. I've got one designed up,
> > and will install it in the rig tomorrow. If it works as expected,
> > I'll post the results on the reflector, along with a schematic.
> > If it doesn't work, then the investigation will continue.
> >
> > Anybody not having fun yet! This is the good stuff guys and gals.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> Yes, you are reading it correctly. It shows 100 mv peak-peak
> at the junction of D25/D26 with 20 mv peak-peak of drive at port
> "A". It will only provide the stepup in voltage if the driving
> source is 50 ohms. If your signal generator is way higher than
> that, then the voltage amplification won't be as much.
I am using a slightly broken HP8640B. I think it has a 50 ohm output
on the RF connector, but I can't be sure. For now I will assume that
it is.
> Could be a problem with the diodes,
I did change them.
> the tuning of TC9 not correct
I have tuned TC9, TC1, TC2 for max signal at T6 pin 1 using an
o'scope.
> or the downstream load on that circuitry not correct. That latter
could come about from
> POT5, the RF gain control, not being wired in correctly, not set
> to minimium attenuation
By minimum attenuation you mean set fully CW, at max gain? The wiper
at the top of the pot by L11?
I do notice that when I turn POT5 all the way down, wiper by ground,
I get an increase in the waveform at TC9/L11, but it doesn't get to
100mV.
> or the input filter or RF amplifier not being correct.
That would be TC9, TC1, and TC2 along with T1 and T2, correct?
> If the RF amp is correct, it has a 50 ohm input.
> So does the Rx input filter taken as a whole. If they are connected
> together, the 50 ohm input of the RF amp is carried forward to port
> "B", and properly loads the output of the RX T/R switch.
OK, I will check all this again and get back with the group.
> I know all of the above is a lot to check out, but that's how the
> Rx T/R switch is able to amplifiy the voltage on its input.
And I appreciate the help. I am learning quit a lot about RF that I
didn't know before. Thanks again.
Kevin, KC8SFJ--- In 2n2-40@y..., "adverse_yaw"
wrote:
> By minimum attenuation you mean set fully CW, at max gain? The
> wiper at the top of the pot by L11?
*** CORRECTION ***
***> I do notice that when I turn POT5 all the way down, wiper by
***> ground, I get an increase in the waveform at TC9/L11, but it
***> doesn't get to 100mV.
***
Actually it is when I turn the Pot all the way up, Wiper by L11, that
I get the increase. Though not much of an increase. I notice it
because the signal is very dim on the scope with the pot turned to
low and comes in better (better trigger) when I go to pot High.
> > or the input filter or RF amplifier not being correct.
> That would be TC9, TC1, and TC2 along with T1 and T2, correct?
I rebuilt both T1 and T2 to be exactly like the QRPp drawing of T1
and T2 (using T37-2 cores of course). Before I had the numbered
wires coming off the wrong side of the core, I figured they where out
of phase, so I rebuilt them.
> > If the RF amp is correct, it has a 50 ohm input.
> > So does the Rx input filter taken as a whole. If they are
> > connected together, the 50 ohm input of the RF amp is carried
> > forward to port "B", and properly loads the output of the RX T/R
> > switch.
>
> OK, I will check all this again and get back with the group.
>
> > I know all of the above is a lot to check out, but that's how the
> > Rx T/R switch is able to amplifiy the voltage on its input.
>
> And I appreciate the help. I am learning quit a lot about RF that
> I didn't know before. Thanks again.
Kevin, KC8SFJI may be the only one, but I sure cannot see how a 20 mv p-p signal injected
at Port A can be amplified five fold without any active components. What
does the amplification? Can you explain this again - louder?
73 de Lee
km4yy
Our job is to love others without stopping to inquire
whether or not they are worthy
-- Thomas Merton
----- Original Message -----
From: "adverse_yaw" <adverseyaw@bigfoot.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 11:37 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Rx T/R switch voltages
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > Yes, you are reading it correctly. It shows 100 mv peak-peak
> > at the junction of D25/D26 with 20 mv peak-peak of drive at port
> > "A". It will only provide the stepup in voltage if the driving
> > source is 50 ohms. If your signal generator is way higher than
> > that, then the voltage amplification won't be as much.
>
> I am using a slightly broken HP8640B. I think it has a 50 ohm output
> on the RF connector, but I can't be sure. For now I will assume that
> it is.
>
> > Could be a problem with the diodes,
>
> I did change them.
>
> > the tuning of TC9 not correct
>
> I have tuned TC9, TC1, TC2 for max signal at T6 pin 1 using an
> o'scope.
> > or the downstream load on that circuitry not correct. That latter
> could come about from
> > POT5, the RF gain control, not being wired in correctly, not set
> > to minimium attenuation
>
> By minimum attenuation you mean set fully CW, at max gain? The wiper
> at the top of the pot by L11?
> I do notice that when I turn POT5 all the way down, wiper by ground,
> I get an increase in the waveform at TC9/L11, but it doesn't get to
> 100mV.
>
> > or the input filter or RF amplifier not being correct.
> That would be TC9, TC1, and TC2 along with T1 and T2, correct?
>
> > If the RF amp is correct, it has a 50 ohm input.
> > So does the Rx input filter taken as a whole. If they are connected
> > together, the 50 ohm input of the RF amp is carried forward to port
> > "B", and properly loads the output of the RX T/R switch.
> OK, I will check all this again and get back with the group.
>
> > I know all of the above is a lot to check out, but that's how the
> > Rx T/R switch is able to amplifiy the voltage on its input.
> And I appreciate the help. I am learning quit a lot about RF that I
> didn't know before. Thanks again.
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Jim explained this fully a few weeks back. Search the archives on the
Yahoo! board, I'm the message will turn up. I've got archived here
myself, somewhere.
73,
John, N1QO
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> I may be the only one, but I sure cannot see how a 20 mv p-p signal injected
> at Port A can be amplified five fold without any active components. What
> does the amplification? Can you explain this again - louder?
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
> Our job is to love others without stopping to inquire
> whether or not they are worthy
> -- Thomas Merton
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "adverse_yaw" <adverseyaw@bigfoot.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 11:37 AM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Rx T/R switch voltages
>
> > --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > > Yes, you are reading it correctly. It shows 100 mv peak-peak
> > > at the junction of D25/D26 with 20 mv peak-peak of drive at port
> > > "A". It will only provide the stepup in voltage if the driving
> > > source is 50 ohms. If your signal generator is way higher than
> > > that, then the voltage amplification won't be as much.
> >
> > I am using a slightly broken HP8640B. I think it has a 50 ohm output
> > on the RF connector, but I can't be sure. For now I will assume that
> > it is.
> >
> > > Could be a problem with the diodes,
> >
> > I did change them.
> >
> > > the tuning of TC9 not correct
> >
> > I have tuned TC9, TC1, TC2 for max signal at T6 pin 1 using an
> > o'scope.
> > > or the downstream load on that circuitry not correct. That latter
> > could come about from
> > > POT5, the RF gain control, not being wired in correctly, not set
> > > to minimium attenuation
> >
> > By minimum attenuation you mean set fully CW, at max gain? The wiper
> > at the top of the pot by L11?
> > I do notice that when I turn POT5 all the way down, wiper by ground,
> > I get an increase in the waveform at TC9/L11, but it doesn't get to
> > 100mV.
> >
> > > or the input filter or RF amplifier not being correct.
> > That would be TC9, TC1, and TC2 along with T1 and T2, correct?
> >
> > > If the RF amp is correct, it has a 50 ohm input.
> > > So does the Rx input filter taken as a whole. If they are connected
> > > together, the 50 ohm input of the RF amp is carried forward to port
> > > "B", and properly loads the output of the RX T/R switch.
> > OK, I will check all this again and get back with the group.
> >
> > > I know all of the above is a lot to check out, but that's how the
> > > Rx T/R switch is able to amplifiy the voltage on its input.
> > And I appreciate the help. I am learning quit a lot about RF that I
> > didn't know before. Thanks again.
> > Kevin, KC8SFJ
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 02:53 PM 1/20/02 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>I may be the only one, but I sure cannot see how a 20 mv p-p signal injected
>at Port A can be amplified five fold without any active components. What
>does the amplification? Can you explain this again - louder?
I don't know whether I can do it any louder, but I can do it again.
Here is the text that I post before explaining how it works.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
The reason the voltage is stepped up in the middle of that piece of
circuitry is because it is series resonant, and the ends are held
at a low impedance, about 50 ohms on the antenna side, and the same
on the port "B" side with the RF gain all the way up. If you compute
the reactance of TC9 and L11 at 7.05 MHz, you find the value to be
about 530 ohms. Now, the current through the driving impedance and
terminating impedace is the same, and those impedances are 50 ohms,
but the interior impedance of the circuit is roughly ten times that,
so with the same current going through the capacitor and inductor,
the voltage must be 10 times larger than across the input and output
impedances. Ohms law..... E = I x R, where the I is fixed, and the
R values, (impedances actually) control the voltage levels. The actual
voltages don't actually get to 10 times those across the input and
output impedances due to losses, but they indeed do go up substantually,
and that's how such a simple circuit can protect the input of the receiver.
With large signal levels, the diodes conduct, holding the interior voltages
to 1.3 volts p-p. Therefore the output voltage at port "B" is much
lower than the driving voltage on the antenna end. When the diodes
conduct, they also effectively ground the interior end of TC9, and
it becomes part of the capacitance to ground of the first capacitor
in the transmit low pass filter.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hope it makes sense. If any of you have modeling software, SPICE,
EWB, etc. model just the series capacitor and inductor being driven
from a 50 ohm source and terminated by a 50 ohm load. You'll see
the interior voltages are much higher than the driving voltages.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 06:30 PM 1/20/02 +0000, Kevin, KC8SFJ wrote:
>Actually it is when I turn the Pot all the way up, Wiper by L11, that
>I get the increase. Though not much of an increase. I notice it
>because the signal is very dim on the scope with the pot turned to
>low and comes in better (better trigger) when I go to pot High.
Well you're at least seeing the effect, and with the RF gain
pot wiper in the correct position.
>
> > > or the input filter or RF amplifier not being correct.
> > That would be TC9, TC1, and TC2 along with T1 and T2, correct?
>
>I rebuilt both T1 and T2 to be exactly like the QRPp drawing of T1
>and T2 (using T37-2 cores of course). Before I had the numbered
>wires coming off the wrong side of the core, I figured they where out
>of phase, so I rebuilt them.
The phasing would not have made any difference. Just the turns ratio
has to be correct, and the primary and secondaries hooked to the
correct components.
>
> > > If the RF amp is correct, it has a 50 ohm input.
> > > So does the Rx input filter taken as a whole. If they are
> > > connected together, the 50 ohm input of the RF amp is carried
> > > forward to port "B", and properly loads the output of the RX T/R
> > > switch.
> >
> > OK, I will check all this again and get back with the group.
If it is amplifying, it probably is correct, unless the 4 turn and
11 turn windings are reversed. If the 1 turn winding is reversed,
it will oscillate, not amplify.
BTW, I would expect your 8640B to be fine regarding output
impedance. Easy to check too. Just drive a 50 ohm load, and
see if the voltage across the load is 1/2 of the open circuit
voltage. It should be if the output impedance of the generator
is indeed 50 ohms.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
At 11:27 PM 1/19/02 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>I just noticed that my audio transformer in the 2N2-40 is running very hot -
>to hot to touch. These are the ones from John Wagner. Has anyone else
>noticed this?
If it is that hot, something is drastically wrong in the audio amp.
The final pair of transistors should be only drawing about 8 ma
of static current, nowhere near enough to warm up the transformer.
Either some of the components are wrong, the transistors are not
in correctly, or it is oscillating like mad. It won't oscillate
if built correctly, at least as far as I know. Never had one do
that in one of my rigs.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 09:18 PM 1/19/02 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>Jim -
>I love it when the theory agrees with the real world. I originally
>constructed the Rx LO with L4 and C19 coming off the pin 1 pad at T9. The
>.01ufd C34 stretched from this point back and down to the pad for R16/R15 -
>about 1.5 inches.
>
>This afternoon (before getting your messages) I set a new pad close to the
>LO R16/R15 and moved L4 and C19 away from the pad for T9 pin 1 by that 1.5
>inch. I then connected from the LO to T9 pin one with a short piece of coax
>grounded only at the LO end. The result was a dramatic reduction in the
>loudest birdie! No problem copying the contest stations operating there
>now. I haven't checked the quieter hashy noise at the top of the band yet.
Good. Looks like you found a good fix for the problem. Long leads
on RF sources generally are not good unless they are shielded. Glad
you got it working.
72 and thanks for the feedback,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
All,
Not had much time to devote to the project this past week or so. I
did get some time on today after Church so here's the story.
I rewound T8 but to find much the same condition IF the RxLO isn't
running (shut down by clamping base of Q8 to ground). If I remove the
Q8 base ground the oscillations go away and I can now hear signals
from my MFJ 259B six inches away on a piece of wire. Signals are in
the mud on the scope at 2 MV across the antenna input (1K ohm
resister) of the 242-40. Guess this is good enough until I get an
antenna.
I'm thinking with the receiver at this stage and Jim's added AF amp
I'll study the addition of the AF amp before I go to the transmitter
section. Guess I'm feeling not quite done with the receiver yet.
Started thinking about stealth 40 antenna for the back yard. If I can
make something not too obvious I'm going to try it. Thinking of an
end fed inverted Vee which might look as if I'm guying the tree for
stability. Now won't that be an argument to the neighborhood busy
bodies that go snooping for something to sue you about. Before I go
this far I just might try the 40 meter ham stick on the back of the
pickup.
Anyway, I'm having fun building, this is what I've enjoyed most of
the hobby. Learn so much this way. I just might go to another ham
shack to test the rig when complete.
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
|
1508|1496|2002-01-20 17:51:17|Wes Clopton|Re: 2N2/40+ Receive Spurs|Does that mean No LOW PASS FILTER coming..I thought that was a good idea..
Wes
At 04:37 PM 1/20/02, you wrote:
>At 09:18 PM 1/19/02 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>
> >Jim -
> >I love it when the theory agrees with the real world. I originally
> >constructed the Rx LO with L4 and C19 coming off the pin 1 pad at T9. The
> >.01ufd C34 stretched from this point back and down to the pad for R16/R15 -
> >about 1.5 inches.
> >
> >This afternoon (before getting your messages) I set a new pad close to the
> >LO R16/R15 and moved L4 and C19 away from the pad for T9 pin 1 by that 1.5
> >inch. I then connected from the LO to T9 pin one with a short piece of coax
> >grounded only at the LO end. The result was a dramatic reduction in the
> >loudest birdie! No problem copying the contest stations operating there
> >now. I haven't checked the quieter hashy noise at the top of the band yet.
>
>Good. Looks like you found a good fix for the problem. Long leads
>on RF sources generally are not good unless they are shielded. Glad
>you got it working.
>
>72 and thanks for the feedback,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Wes Clopton
5202 Colebrook Dr
La Plata, MD 20646
Me too! the birdies haven't all flown away, they are just further out the
same branch!
Lee
You will never find anybody who can give you a clear and compelling
reason we observe Daylight Saving Time.
--Dave Barry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@drix.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/40+ Receive Spurs
> Does that mean No LOW PASS FILTER coming..I thought that was a good idea..
>
> Wes
>
> At 04:37 PM 1/20/02, you wrote:
> >At 09:18 PM 1/19/02 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
> >
> > >Jim -
> > >I love it when the theory agrees with the real world. I originally
> > >constructed the Rx LO with L4 and C19 coming off the pin 1 pad at T9.
The
> > >.01ufd C34 stretched from this point back and down to the pad for
R16/R15 -
> > >about 1.5 inches.
> > >
> > >This afternoon (before getting your messages) I set a new pad close to
the
> > >LO R16/R15 and moved L4 and C19 away from the pad for T9 pin 1 by that
1.5
> > >inch. I then connected from the LO to T9 pin one with a short piece of
coax
> > >grounded only at the LO end. The result was a dramatic reduction in
the
> > >loudest birdie! No problem copying the contest stations operating
there
> > >now. I haven't checked the quieter hashy noise at the top of the band
yet.
> >
> >Good. Looks like you found a good fix for the problem. Long leads
> >on RF sources generally are not good unless they are shielded. Glad
> >you got it working.
> >
> >72 and thanks for the feedback,
> >
> >Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> Wes Clopton
> 5202 Colebrook Dr
> La Plata, MD 20646
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
At 10:11 PM 1/20/02 +0000, Ken, KD2KW wrote:
>Jim,
>All,
>Not had much time to devote to the project this past week or so. I
>did get some time on today after Church so here's the story.
>
>I rewound T8 but to find much the same condition IF the RxLO isn't
>running (shut down by clamping base of Q8 to ground). If I remove the
>Q8 base ground the oscillations go away and I can now hear signals
>from my MFJ 259B six inches away on a piece of wire.
Ken, I think your rig may be operating just fine, except for
maybe needing the front-end tuned properly. If you have the
LO running, there will be a lot of signal on the collector
if IF amp transistor Q7, and there will even be some of the LO
signal on the collector of Q6. This is normal......the LO
signal is very large, and feeds back into the IF amplifier.
The IF amplifier itself should not be oscillating though.
With the LO not running, you should be able to hear a signal
on 40 meters on another receiver connected to the IF amp
output, and tuned to nominally 4.915 MHz. You can also see
a signal on a scope at the output of the IF if you either feed in
enought signal at the front-end to get up to your scopes vertical
sensitivity, or have a scope with lots of vertical gain.
> Signals are in
>the mud on the scope at 2 MV across the antenna input (1K ohm
>resister) of the 242-40. Guess this is good enough until I get an
>antenna.
Yes, probably just not enough scope sensitivity.
>I'm thinking with the receiver at this stage and Jim's added AF amp
>I'll study the addition of the AF amp before I go to the transmitter
>section. Guess I'm feeling not quite done with the receiver yet.
Getting close it sounds like.
>-snip-
>
>Anyway, I'm having fun building, this is what I've enjoyed most of
>the hobby. Learn so much this way. I just might go to another ham
>shack to test the rig when complete.
Sounds like a plan. Thanks for the update Ken, and GL.
Jim, K8IQY
At 05:50 PM 1/20/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Does that mean No LOW PASS FILTER coming..I thought that was a good idea..
>
>Wes
Yes, that means no low pass filter coming. I built it, and it didn't
seem to offer any improvement. I did however, try something else
that I really like. I tore out all of the components connected
to the junction of R15 and R16. I changes R15 from 560 ohms to
470 ohms for a bit more drive. Then put a 22uH inductor from the
junction of R15/R16 to an existing pad, and a 47pF capacitor from
that pad to T9-pin1. The new inductor and capacitor make up a
series tuned bandpass filter at 5 MHz. The drive to the product
detector is improved, and the birdies are less than they were with
the stock circuit. And fewer parts. I'm hoping someone else will
try this, and let me know how it works for them.
The spectrum on T9-pin1 shows the 2nd harmonic down 40 dB, and
the 3rd down about 32 dB. Much better than with the stock circuitry.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
OK, it was a good idea. Some work, some dont....
But since I completely removed both LO's and separated
all DC paths so that it is now around the outside edge and a
breakout pad where Vcc is needed. Also .01 ufd bypass caps at each
pad.
The LO's will be on a LO board above the necessary circuit.
Ill put your mod in also..
Wes
At 07:26 PM 1/20/02, you wrote:
>At 05:50 PM 1/20/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Does that mean No LOW PASS FILTER coming..I thought that was a good idea..
> >
> >Wes
>
>Yes, that means no low pass filter coming. I built it, and it didn't
>seem to offer any improvement. I did however, try something else
>that I really like. I tore out all of the components connected
>to the junction of R15 and R16. I changes R15 from 560 ohms to
>470 ohms for a bit more drive. Then put a 22uH inductor from the
>junction of R15/R16 to an existing pad, and a 47pF capacitor from
>that pad to T9-pin1. The new inductor and capacitor make up a
>series tuned bandpass filter at 5 MHz. The drive to the product
>detector is improved, and the birdies are less than they were with
>the stock circuit. And fewer parts. I'm hoping someone else will
>try this, and let me know how it works for them.
>
>The spectrum on T9-pin1 shows the 2nd harmonic down 40 dB, and
>the 3rd down about 32 dB. Much better than with the stock circuitry.
>
>72,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Wes Clopton
5202 Colebrook Dr
La Plata, MD 20646
The hot transformer was caused by a bit of flotsam and jetsam lodging
against the pad for R31 and shorting it to ground. Of course I had to
remove Q10 and R31 before I could see it - a 1/32" piece of clipped wire...
Another dummy error...
Lee
km4yy
I'm not into working out. My philosophy: No pain, no pain.
--Carol Leifer
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Hot transformer
> At 11:27 PM 1/19/02 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>
> >I just noticed that my audio transformer in the 2N2-40 is running very
hot -
> >to hot to touch. These are the ones from John Wagner. Has anyone else
> >noticed this?
>
> If it is that hot, something is drastically wrong in the audio amp.
> The final pair of transistors should be only drawing about 8 ma
> of static current, nowhere near enough to warm up the transformer.
> Either some of the components are wrong, the transistors are not
> in correctly, or it is oscillating like mad. It won't oscillate
> if built correctly, at least as far as I know. Never had one do
> that in one of my rigs.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> At 11:27 PM 1/19/02 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>
> >I just noticed that my audio transformer in the 2N2-40 is running
very hot -
> >to hot to touch. These are the ones from John Wagner. Has anyone
else
> >noticed this?
Lee and Jim,
I think am using the same transformer and the total current
for the 4 transisters in my AF amp is apx. 24 ma. at 12 volts.
The tranformer is cool(temperature). I think my amp is working OK.
I don't have the receiver completed yet, so I can't say that it
is working like a radio. But it will.
72,
Kaye, K8GZ Lancaster, OH
Gang,
I used to be able to manipulate formulas to find for other values,
but alas, I seem to have lost the knack.
How do we change:
f=10^6/2pi sqr root LC
to find for L?
Any takers?
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|
1516|1498|2002-01-21 05:53:01|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Hot transformer|At 03:51 AM 1/21/02 +0000, you wrote:
> > At 11:27 PM 1/19/02 -0500, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
> >
> > >I just noticed that my audio transformer in the 2N2-40 is running
>very hot -
> > >to hot to touch. These are the ones from John Wagner. Has anyone
>else
> > >noticed this?
>
>Lee and Jim,
>I think am using the same transformer and the total current
>for the 4 transisters in my AF amp is apx. 24 ma. at 12 volts.
Kaye, that's very close to what it should be. 8 ma each for
Q11 and Q12, and another 8 for the input pair, Q9 and Q10.
>The tranformer is cool(temperature). I think my amp is working OK.
Should be....at least the bias voltages have to be correct with
those current values.
>I don't have the receiver completed yet, so I can't say that it
>is working like a radio. But it will.
I'm sure it will....thanks for the feedback.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:10 AM 1/21/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Gang,
>I used to be able to manipulate formulas to find for other values,
>but alas, I seem to have lost the knack.
>How do we change:
>f=10^6/2pi sqr root LC
>to find for L?
>Any takers?
>Kevin, KC8SFJ
Kevin,
Square both sides, so we have f^2 = 10^12/[4*Pi^2*L*C], then
rearrange to solve for L. L = 10^12/[4*Pi^2*f^2*C]. Easy
as that. Squaring both sides is the key to get rid of the square root
term around LC.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I reinstalled the RIT that I had taken out for troubleshooting. Now
I find that the VFO isn't linear anymore. I get to 7.050 mhz before
I get to '1' on the counter dial.
When I disconnect the RIT everything goes back to normal.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|
1519|1519|2002-01-21 21:12:21|Lee Mairs|Latest Transmitter Schematic|I hadn't heard much about changes to the transmitter schematics, so I
started to use the NA5N book for help in laying it out. Sure enough, found
differences almost immediately at Q14, so I think I'd best check for the
latest version.
Is the page three 2N2222CG.SCH; dated 10/8/2001 the most up-to-date
schematic?
73 de Lee
km4yy
|
1520|1519|2002-01-22 11:36:29|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Latest Transmitter Schematic|At 09:16 PM 1/21/02 -0500, you wrote:
>-snip-
>Is the page three 2N2222CG.SCH; dated 10/8/2001 the most up-to-date
>schematic?
>
>73 de Lee
>km4yy
Lee....yes, that's current!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I have done some fixes to the Recieve section and figured I would
give an update.
I had been having a problem with the RF amp. It was only giving
9.5dBm of amplification. So I looked at the schematic again and
found that I had placed C16 on the wrong side of R12. It was on the
Vcc side. After changing that I redid the calculations and found I
get 11.8dBm of amplification. Close enough.
Ok, so I went on to check all the signals per Jim's TEK displays.
Disregarding the lack of a large signal at D25/D26 everything checks
out right up to point 'C', the junction of T4-4 and T4-5. I have L5
and R21 wired in correctly, per the schematic, but I don't get a good
signal there. It is less than 2mV p-p as read on the scope. The
mixer amp seems to amplify it fine as it is much larger (20mV) on the
collector of Q5. That seems to be a 20dBm gain (Hmmm... only
supposed to be +9dBm?). Thinking that L5 was bad I removed it from
the circuit. The signal gets larger at point 'C', but when I
measured L5 it reads 103.6uH on the AADE meter so it is good. I am
using surplus coils for the 100uH components and have no data on
them. They are green cans (radial) with 101 on the top. That is all
I know. What does L5 do in the circuit? Is the Q critical?
I will now go back to circuit and see if I can find out why the
receiver won't receive. Perhaps I am getting close?
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|
1522|1522|2002-01-22 11:50:15|wb0wao@hotmail.com|"Birth Certificate"|Hey Gang..... Just got my certificate from Preston and it is a beauty.
Now I have 2N2/40 number 26! If you built one, get the certificate -
looks good on the wall next to the rig.
BTW, been following all the posts and great to see so much progress.
Those of you still building, you are in for a real treat when you get
done.
72/73
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
1523|1522|2002-01-22 12:08:36|Tom Dufresne|Re: "Birth Certificate"|I would like one.... How do I do it?
Tom
>From: wb0wao@hotmail.com
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2n2-40] "Birth Certificate"
>Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:49:56 -0500 (EST)
>
>Hey Gang..... Just got my certificate from Preston and it is a beauty.
>Now I have 2N2/40 number 26! If you built one, get the certificate -
>looks good on the wall next to the rig.
>BTW, been following all the posts and great to see so much progress.
>Those of you still building, you are in for a real treat when you get
>done.
>
>72/73
>
>Dennis - WB0WAO
>
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device:
http://mobile.msn.comThis is normal when adding the RIT. The fix is to
remove a turn or two from the VFO winding. I think
mine took two turns, but try one at a time in case you
overshoot.
GL es 72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- adverse_yaw <
adverseyaw@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> Gang,
> I reinstalled the RIT that I had taken out for
> troubleshooting. Now
> I find that the VFO isn't linear anymore. I get to
> 7.050 mhz before
> I get to '1' on the counter dial.
> When I disconnect the RIT everything goes back to
> normal.
> Has anyone else had this problem?
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/Kevin,
Thought that I would repost an e-mail from my archive concerning
tuning linearity that you and the group may find of interest.
"2N2/40 Enthusiasts,
"If you are using a ten turn 20K tuning potentiometer and a turns
counter, you may be interested in the progress made this weekend in my
garage, howling winds and deluge of water notwithstanding.
"The 15K resistor that shunts the tuning pot sweep is intended to
compensate for the non-linearity of the varactor and may very well
have done just that for the original built by Jim, K8IQY. It has
probably become evident to many builders of the 2N2/40 that the
non-linearity of varactors, even of the same designation, is
inconsistent. I found the need to keep increasing the shunt resistance
using combinations of fixed resistors and a 10K trim pot. To make a
long story short and spare the bandwidth, I ended up connecting a 100K
trim pot in place of the 15K shunt resistor and adjusting until my
dial and frequency counter agreed at 7.040. Most of the band was right
on with maybe a 1 kHz discrepancy at the band ends. Not too shabby.
"72/73
Arth"
72 es GL,
Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "adverse_yaw" wrote:
> Gang,
> I reinstalled the RIT that I had taken out for troubleshooting. Now
> I find that the VFO isn't linear anymore. I get to 7.050 mhz before
> I get to '1' on the counter dial.
> When I disconnect the RIT everything goes back to normal.
> Has anyone else had this problem?
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
Hello Gang,
I'm slowly making progress....just started on the RX Mute. Before I
solder in the 2N7000, I wanted to make sure I have the pinout
correct. Looking at the part with the flat side facing you - Source,
Gate, Drain. __________
[ 2N7000 ]
[__________]
[ [ ]
[ [ ]
S G D
If this is not correct, PLEASE let me know. Thanks in advance for
the help!! Sometimes I wonder if I'll EVER finish this thing!!!!
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
|
1527|1492|2002-01-22 22:15:13|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Rx T/R switch voltages (Correction) Update|At 04:36 PM 1/22/02 +0000, Kevin, KC8SFJ wrote:
>Gang,
>I have done some fixes to the Recieve section and figured I would
>give an update.
>I had been having a problem with the RF amp. It was only giving
>9.5dBm of amplification. So I looked at the schematic again and
>found that I had placed C16 on the wrong side of R12. It was on the
>Vcc side. After changing that I redid the calculations and found I
>get 11.8dBm of amplification. Close enough.
Yes, that's right on the money now. Interesting isn't it
how critical some RF bypass capacitors are.
>Ok, so I went on to check all the signals per Jim's TEK displays.
>Disregarding the lack of a large signal at D25/D26 everything checks
>out right up to point 'C', the junction of T4-4 and T4-5. I have L5
>and R21 wired in correctly, per the schematic, but I don't get a good
>signal there. It is less than 2mV p-p as read on the scope. The
>mixer amp seems to amplify it fine as it is much larger (20mV) on the
>collector of Q5. That seems to be a 20dBm gain (Hmmm... only
>supposed to be +9dBm?).
Actually, only about 12.5 dB power gain. That amp is 50 ohms
input impedance, but 270 ohms output impedance. Gotta take that
into account.
> Thinking that L5 was bad I removed it from
>the circuit. The signal gets larger at point 'C', but when I
>measured L5 it reads 103.6uH on the AADE meter so it is good. I am
>using surplus coils for the 100uH components and have no data on
>them. They are green cans (radial) with 101 on the top. That is all
>I know. What does L5 do in the circuit?
Supplies the DC ground for the emitter current coming from Q5.
> Is the Q critical?
Only if the DC resistance is really high. If it is, it can affect
the current flowing out of the emitter. Too much resistance, and
the gain of the stage starts decreasing. But, you seem to have
more than enough, so I don't think that choke is a problem.
>I will now go back to circuit and see if I can find out why the
>receiver won't receive. Perhaps I am getting close?
You keep making progress...... I think that's teriffic!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:03 AM 1/23/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello Gang,
>
>I'm slowly making progress....just started on the RX Mute. Before I
>solder in the 2N7000, I wanted to make sure I have the pinout
>correct. Looking at the part with the flat side facing you - Source,
>Gate, Drain. __________
> [ 2N7000 ]
> [__________]
> [ [ ]
> [ [ ]
> S G D
>
>If this is not correct, PLEASE let me know. Thanks in advance for
>the help!! Sometimes I wonder if I'll EVER finish this thing!!!!
>
>72 de Pat KF4LMZ
Pat, you've got it correct.
Build on, and don't get discouraged!!
72
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
Additionally, the trimmer needed readjustment after installing the RIT
but linearity was restored. I now have a freq-mite in addition and
after aligning to 7.040, the vfo never disagrees with the freq-mite
by more than 1 kHz, the published accuracy of the freq-mite.
72,
Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "w6ags" wrote:
> Kevin,
>
> Thought that I would repost an e-mail from my archive concerning
> tuning linearity that you and the group may find of interest.
>
> "2N2/40 Enthusiasts,
>
> "If you are using a ten turn 20K tuning potentiometer and a turns
> counter, you may be interested in the progress made this weekend in
my
> garage, howling winds and deluge of water notwithstanding.
>
> "The 15K resistor that shunts the tuning pot sweep is intended to
> compensate for the non-linearity of the varactor and may very well
> have done just that for the original built by Jim, K8IQY. It has
> probably become evident to many builders of the 2N2/40 that the
> non-linearity of varactors, even of the same designation, is
> inconsistent. I found the need to keep increasing the shunt
resistance
> using combinations of fixed resistors and a 10K trim pot. To make a
> long story short and spare the bandwidth, I ended up connecting a
100K
> trim pot in place of the 15K shunt resistor and adjusting until my
> dial and frequency counter agreed at 7.040. Most of the band was
right
> on with maybe a 1 kHz discrepancy at the band ends. Not too shabby.
>
> "72/73
> Arth"
>
> 72 es GL,
> Arth W6AGS
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "adverse_yaw" wrote:
> > Gang,
> > I reinstalled the RIT that I had taken out for troubleshooting.
Now
> > I find that the VFO isn't linear anymore. I get to 7.050 mhz
before
> > I get to '1' on the counter dial.
> > When I disconnect the RIT everything goes back to normal.
> > Has anyone else had this problem?
> > Kevin, KC8SFJ
Jim & Gang,
The audio section in my rig tends toward microphonics. Before I
grounded the shaft of the AF gain control, I would get a 60 Hz hum
every time I touched it to adjust volume. So I worked out a way to
ground the thing in the plastic enclosure.
I recently intalled the extra AF preamp of Jims design and let me tell
you that if think you want more audio in your rig, that is the
definitive remedy. Volume to spare!
So all this done and now it is time to take the rig off the bench and
into service. The 2N2/40 and the NC20 are installed side by side in
our vacation qth at 7500 ft asl. The power supply I am using for both
is the RS 3 amp regulated linear supply. (I have also used the RS 3
amp regulated switching supply but copious rf hash in all radios
causes me to give that ill conceived product a definitive thumbs
down.) Thing is, I now get an annoying constant 60 Hz hum only in the
2N2/40 from the linear supply. Other supplies, including the switcher,
did not produce the hum. I know that I probably need more filtering
capacitance somewhere. Question is, do I fix the radio or the supply?
Could the 470 uF across the rigs DC input be not enough or defective?
Should I add a lubba 2200 uF to the supply? the rig? Both? Buy a new
supply? Back to the bench? Aw shucks!
Anyone have a similar problem?
Asside: The certificates are real nice. Contact Preston Douglas, WJ2V,
at
PDouglas12@aol.com. For a picture of your rig, first contact info,
and a SASE, Preston will send you a numbered certificate. I am proud
to boast that mine is number 16.
72 es cu @ 7.040...buzzz
Arth W6AGS
Well, kind of had my first 2N2-40 QSO today. I used my 2N2-40
receiver and my Tuna Tin to chat with WA2HNA in NY today.
I've been messing around with my 2N2-40 -- added an AF pramp a while
back -- put in a new mute switch today -- the receiver works great.
The mute switch I used is from a Roy Lewallen design published in
Sprat. Pretty simple -- a J310 and a few .1 caps, 1 meg resistors
and a diode. Its similar to the switch in the "Optimized QRP
Transceiver" at
http://www.arrl.org/tis/info/pdf/93hb3037.pdf -- of
course I messed with it a little bit so mine's a bit different --
added 2 megs to get the side tone where I wanted it.
Need to get my receiver in a box -- might use it with my "Ugly
Weekender" xmtr -- I'm afraid to stick the xmit parts into my 2N2-40 -
- don't like messing around with gear that works :-)
73,
Jake -- N4UY
I know it is the simplest part of the rig, but I finally got my parts
and was able to start my 2N2/40. I built the RX/TX driver section
and it works fine. Now on to the VFO.
|
1534|1534|2002-01-26 18:43:29|adverse_yaw|The Rig Works!|Gang,
Well, I went to see Jim today to see if he could figure out what was
wrong with my 2n2/40. We set it up on his testbench--quite
impressive--and measured the signals from the input and VFO. We
compared those signals to his 2n2/40 to see where they differed. My
VFO was only putting out 200mV p-p at T5, where in his rig it was
1200mV p-p. He found that T5 wasn't tuned correctly. After adding a
150pf cap across T5 the ouput jumped to 1300mV p-p. So he soldered
that in and the rig practically chased us out of the room with it's
powerful audio.
We did a receiver sensitivity check and found that to be -122.9dBm
or .16uV. Very good for a homebrew receiver. It's all in the
design, I say.
Also, it seems that I do have the 100mV p-p signal at D25/D26. I was
using a X1 probe on my scope. The capacitance changed the circuit
charactoristics enough to limit the signal. With a X10 probe the
signal does jump to 100mV p-p.
So, now I have a working 2n2/40 to operate 40m. I just have
to pass my code test and I will be making contacts.
I'll keep the group posted when I pass my test and we can have some
more 2n2 to 2n2 QSO's.
Thanks again.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|
1535|1534|2002-01-26 22:08:31|k8gz|Re: The Rig Works!|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "adverse_yaw"
wrote:
> Gang,
> Well, I went to see Jim today. My
> VFO was only putting out 200mV p-p at T5, where in his rig it was
> 1200mV p-p. He found that T5 wasn't tuned correctly.
I'll keep the group posted when I pass my test and we can have some
> more 2n2 to 2n2 QSO's.
> Thanks again.
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
That's super, Kevin. Thanks for the post, because I was trying to
tune T5 tonight and wondered how critical the tuning was to the
receiver performance. Guess I know now.
Best of luck on your test.
Thanks,
72,
Kaye, K8GZ Lancaster, OHWow, just think of all that extra Mojo from Jim that your rig is gonna
have!
Nice job, Kevin es good luck on the code test - be glad to QSO with you
once you're on the air. (any speed you want, btw)
73,
John, N1QO
adverse_yaw wrote:
>
> Gang,
> Well, I went to see Jim today to see if he could figure out what was
> wrong with my 2n2/40. We set it up on his testbench--quite
> impressive--and measured the signals from the input and VFO. We
> compared those signals to his 2n2/40 to see where they differed. My
> VFO was only putting out 200mV p-p at T5, where in his rig it was
> 1200mV p-p. He found that T5 wasn't tuned correctly. After adding a
> 150pf cap across T5 the ouput jumped to 1300mV p-p. So he soldered
> that in and the rig practically chased us out of the room with it's
> powerful audio.
> We did a receiver sensitivity check and found that to be -122.9dBm
> or .16uV. Very good for a homebrew receiver. It's all in the
> design, I say.
> Also, it seems that I do have the 100mV p-p signal at D25/D26. I was
> using a X1 probe on my scope. The capacitance changed the circuit
> charactoristics enough to limit the signal. With a X10 probe the
> signal does jump to 100mV p-p.
> So, now I have a working 2n2/40 to operate 40m. I just have
> to pass my code test and I will be making contacts.
> I'll keep the group posted when I pass my test and we can have some
> more 2n2 to 2n2 QSO's.
> Thanks again.
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWell Im impressed. Got the receiver section working today
and Im happy with how good it sounds. It pulls CW stations
out of the either like magic...
I used a SRA-1 for the DBM, mainly because making my own
drove me crazy...hihi I tried three times before going to the Mini
Circuit one.
Following the schematic when building is a is a good teaching method also.
Ill bet there are a number of interesting configurations...
I made a tuned speaker by using a 3" speaker slide inside a a 3"
PVC 6 " long
pipe until it was resonant at 700 hz....sounds great..
Onward.........finishing the transmit section...Hope to be on the
air soon.
This is Fun....
Wes W3eru
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
|
1539|229|2002-01-28 13:45:05|Brian|Metal 2N2222's|Guys,
I've been trying to find us another deal on metal 2N2222's...I'm getting
prices of 30 cents and up for QTY of 2500 or so. This seems really really
high to me.
Anyone else seeing this same thing??
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
|
1540|1540|2002-01-28 14:29:25|Lee Mairs|Birdies and other foul foul|Gang -
>...On the other hand, when I built my 2N2/40 xcvr there apparently *was* a
need
>for some shielding in the receiver's IF strip. Again, a scrap of board
>soldered at right angles to the main board did the trick, with a tiny hole
>drilled through it to pass the signal lead. I also reduced the gain of one
>of the IF stages by adjusting the value of its emitter bypass capacitor,
>according to textbook procedures and calculations, and that stabilized the
>stage so that the oscillation stopped (the first attempt to quell it was
>with the shield).
I found this snippet on another list. Is shielding the if an appropriate
approach to killing the birdie that bugs several of us? Wouldn't it make
more sense to shield just the VFO?
73 de Lee
km4yy
Asking an incumbent member of Congress to vote for term limits is a bit like
asking a chicken to vote for Colonel Sanders.
-- Bob Inglis, 1995
Nope,
Electronix Express still has 'em for the same price I paid when I bought
'em for the 2N2 transistor kits: $0.21 in qty. 100.
http://electronixexpress.com/sem_n255.htm 73.......Steve 'The Scrounger' Smith
WB6TNL Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
On Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:44:29 -0500 "Brian" <
brian@iquest.net> writes:
> Guys,
>
> I've been trying to find us another deal on metal 2N2222's...I'm
> getting
> prices of 30 cents and up for QTY of 2500 or so. This seems really
> really
> high to me.
>
> Anyone else seeing this same thing??
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.Brian, I bought em for 35 cents individually! Sounds high for ordering
2500!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian <
brian@iquest.net>
To: 2N2 <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Monday, January 28, 2002 12:52 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Metal 2N2222's
>Guys,
>
>I've been trying to find us another deal on metal 2N2222's...I'm getting
>prices of 30 cents and up for QTY of 2500 or so. This seems really really
>high to me.
>
>Anyone else seeing this same thing??
>
>
>========================================
> KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
> QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
> FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
>TEN TEC SCOUT @ 5W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
> INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
> SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
>========================================
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Well I tried the filters and still had big birdies...
But after putting a shield, made out PC board around half
of the VFO (the side next to the IF and the end toward the
audio section) I have no spurs , birdies , just a good clean
audio..What a difference it makes....
Wes
|
1544|1543|2002-01-29 22:31:51|Lee Mairs|Re: Birdies|Thanks for your report Wes. I haven't been able to try Jim's latest filter
design because I haven't gotten the inductors from Dan's yet. (Sure wish he
would accept some sort of order other than snail mail!). I will try and
build an enclosure tomorrow. My Tx LO , Tx SB Mixer, and Cascode RF
amplifier seem to be working OK. I can hear the signal when I go key down
on the station receiver. Adjusting the capacitors TC7 and TC8 have a small
effect on the received signal (thru a 12 inch hunk of wire connected to the
wiper of POT4. I'll start on the driver, finals and output filter tomorrow
also.
It was great fun to listen to all the DX pile-ups tonight slamming in. My
YL friend wanted to know what all the screeching was about! I told her it
was the amateur radio prelude to the State of the Union address...
73 de Lee
km4yy
Every society honors its live conformists and its dead troublemakers.
--Mignon Mclaughlin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@drix.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 9:52 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Birdies
> Well I tried the filters and still had big birdies...
> But after putting a shield, made out PC board around half
> of the VFO (the side next to the IF and the end toward the
> audio section) I have no spurs , birdies , just a good clean
> audio..What a difference it makes....
>
> Wes
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Very Good Lee, Right now my 2n2-40 transceiver board is mounted
between a front panel and back panel made from PC board. My
construction isnt the prettiest, not even neatest. But Im having fun and
this is the part of amateur radio Ive enjoyed for 45 yrs. Homebrewing...
The shielding of the VFO is really an improvement...Now with the Antenna
disconnected I can tune the VFO full range with no birdies..
Hook up the 40 mtr loop and the receiver comes alive..
Jim did a great design job..
At 10:35 PM 1/29/02, you wrote:
>Thanks for your report Wes. I haven't been able to try Jim's latest filter
>design because I haven't gotten the inductors from Dan's yet. (Sure wish he
>would accept some sort of order other than snail mail!). I will try and
>build an enclosure tomorrow. My Tx LO , Tx SB Mixer, and Cascode RF
>amplifier seem to be working OK. I can hear the signal when I go key down
>on the station receiver. Adjusting the capacitors TC7 and TC8 have a small
>effect on the received signal (thru a 12 inch hunk of wire connected to the
>wiper of POT4. I'll start on the driver, finals and output filter tomorrow
>also.
>
>It was great fun to listen to all the DX pile-ups tonight slamming in. My
>YL friend wanted to know what all the screeching was about! I told her it
>was the amateur radio prelude to the State of the Union address...
>
>73 de Lee
>km4yy
>
>Every society honors its live conformists and its dead troublemakers.
> --Mignon Mclaughlin
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@drix.net>
>To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 9:52 PM
>Subject: [2n2-40] Birdies
>
>
> > Well I tried the filters and still had big birdies...
> > But after putting a shield, made out PC board around half
> > of the VFO (the side next to the IF and the end toward the
> > audio section) I have no spurs , birdies , just a good clean
> > audio..What a difference it makes....
> >
> > Wes
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Wes Clopton
5202 Colebrook Dr
La Plata, MD 20646
Wes -
I couldn't agree more! I'm delighted that I found Jim and the rest of you
guys. This is the most fun I've had in ham radio since I was first licensed
in '58. Jim's got my vote for the QRP Hall of Fame. I've guests coming in
tomorrow, and I have to go to WV again this weekend, but I should be ready
for my 1st QSO early next week.
I've got three different boxes to audition to see where the 2n2-40 will
live. I bought the two TenTec boxes (one bare aluminum and one painted)
that were big enough to hold it, plus I found some plastic boxes at BC
Micro that were originally for modems.
Hey Jim! How about coming up with a SSB version next?
73 de Lee,
KM4YY
It is difficult to produce a television documentary that is both incisive
and probing when every twelve minutes one is interrupted by dancing rabbits
singing about toilet paper.
--Rod Serling
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@drix.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Birdies
> Very Good Lee, Right now my 2n2-40 transceiver board is mounted
> between a front panel and back panel made from PC board. My
> construction isnt the prettiest, not even neatest. But Im having fun and
> this is the part of amateur radio Ive enjoyed for 45 yrs. Homebrewing...
>
> The shielding of the VFO is really an improvement...Now with the Antenna
> disconnected I can tune the VFO full range with no birdies..
> Hook up the 40 mtr loop and the receiver comes alive..
> Jim did a great design job..
>
>
> At 10:35 PM 1/29/02, you wrote:
> >Thanks for your report Wes. I haven't been able to try Jim's latest
filter
> >design because I haven't gotten the inductors from Dan's yet. (Sure wish
he
> >would accept some sort of order other than snail mail!). I will try and
> >build an enclosure tomorrow. My Tx LO , Tx SB Mixer, and Cascode RF
> >amplifier seem to be working OK. I can hear the signal when I go key
down
> >on the station receiver. Adjusting the capacitors TC7 and TC8 have a
small
> >effect on the received signal (thru a 12 inch hunk of wire connected to
the
> >wiper of POT4. I'll start on the driver, finals and output filter
tomorrow
> >also.
> >
> >It was great fun to listen to all the DX pile-ups tonight slamming in.
My
> >YL friend wanted to know what all the screeching was about! I told her
it
> >was the amateur radio prelude to the State of the Union address...
> >
> >73 de Lee
> >km4yy
> >
> >Every society honors its live conformists and its dead troublemakers.
> > --Mignon Mclaughlin
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@drix.net>
> >To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> >Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 9:52 PM
> >Subject: [2n2-40] Birdies
> >
> >
> > > Well I tried the filters and still had big birdies...
> > > But after putting a shield, made out PC board around half
> > > of the VFO (the side next to the IF and the end toward the
> > > audio section) I have no spurs , birdies , just a good clean
> > > audio..What a difference it makes....
> > >
> > > Wes
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> Wes Clopton
> 5202 Colebrook Dr
> La Plata, MD 20646
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
At 09:52 PM 1/29/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Well I tried the filters and still had big birdies...
>But after putting a shield, made out PC board around half
>of the VFO (the side next to the IF and the end toward the
>audio section) I have no spurs , birdies , just a good clean
>audio..What a difference it makes....
>
>Wes
Wes,
Thanks for the post about the shield. I guess you get the
prize for figuring out a good solution for the birdie(s).
I'll have to try that fix now, and see what happens.
72 and many thanks,
Jim, K8IQY
At 09:18 AM 1/30/02 -0500, you wrote:
>-snip-
>
>Hey Jim! How about coming up with a SSB version next?
Hmmmmmm. How about a 2 band SSB/CW rig that is on the drawing
board? 40 and 17, and designed for bicycle mobile operation, with
a wide range, 150 KHz, VXO. The overall rig is designed, and the
VXO has been prototyped, as has the 2nd band (17m) hardward. That's
where the 4017 transverter idea came from.
72 and stay tuned,
Jim, K8IQY
> >-snip-
> Hmmmmmm. How about a 2 band SSB/CW rig that is on the drawing
> board? 40 and 17, and designed for bicycle mobile operation, with
> a wide range, 150 KHz, VXO. The overall rig is designed, and the
> VXO has been prototyped, as has the 2nd band (17m) hardward. That's
> where the 4017 transverter idea came from.
That sounds wonderful - except for the bicycle part. My butt starts aching
when I even think about the time that I tried going for a bike ride with my
YL.
73 de Lee
It occurred to me this morning that many system design flaws
can be traced to unwarrantedly anthropomorphizing the user.
--Steven.Maker@dartmouth.edu ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Birdies and other stuff
> At 09:18 AM 1/30/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
> 72 and stay tuned,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I still think there is something more generating the birdie about 7.022 in
my receiver. I tacked together an L-shaped shield around the VFO oscillator
on the IF and audio sides w/o any impact. It is tough to retrofit, and I
didn't solder the entire edge. Do you think that might make a difference?
Actually, while typing this it occurred to me that using double-sided pc
board and only tacking one side made a nice sort of antenna. I then
replaced the shield with some very thin single sided board, and the birdie
was way, way down. I should be able to hear an s3 signal over the birdie,
but of course now the band is dead. We will see later this evening.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Act that your principle of action might safely be made a law for the
whole world.
--Immanuel Kant
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Birdies
> At 09:52 PM 1/29/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Well I tried the filters and still had big birdies...
> >But after putting a shield, made out PC board around half
> >of the VFO (the side next to the IF and the end toward the
> >audio section) I have no spurs , birdies , just a good clean
> >audio..What a difference it makes....
> >
> >Wes
>
> Wes,
>
> Thanks for the post about the shield. I guess you get the
> prize for figuring out a good solution for the birdie(s).
> I'll have to try that fix now, and see what happens.
>
> 72 and many thanks,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
testing to see why im not getting postings
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
|
1552|1552|2002-01-30 17:21:17|Wes Clopton|Changes..|Lee and Group,
The L-shaped shield I made was from double sided PC
board , 1 inch high the full length of the VFO then a 90 deg turn
for a inch and a quarter.. solder tacked on both sides about every
half inch....
I also rerouted the DC distribution so that the IF VCC and RF
VCC didnt come thru the VFO.
It worked in mine..........cleaned it to the noise floor...
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
|
1553|1553|2002-01-30 18:38:59|Karl F. Larsen|Begining to build|Hello to the group. I just sent an order to Dan's Small Part's for most of
the parts for the 2n2/40 as found on the web page. I used that parts list
from that page and I understand That you have an updated schematic with
improvements. Please let me know where I can get that information.
I plan to put the radio in a nice Ten Tec box with small wire lift to make
it face me. This is a standard box and costs $40.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/Welcome aboard Karl. I've been building mine for the past two months and
having a ball with it! In fact, most of think that we learn the most when
the ^&*^! thing wasn't working correctly!. There are a lot of good
resources following this email list, so be sure to report your progress.
The latest schematics are on the 2n2-20 website. Be sure you use those and
refer to those part nomenclature while building. The NA5N book containing
the reprint is excellent, but the out-of-date parts list and nomenclature
will screw you up royally. I found John Wagner's close-up photos at
http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/ to be an excellent help, even though I
seldom followed them. Looking at the way John did it illuminated a couple
of mistakes that I was about to make.
73 de Lee,
KM4YY
Time is never wasted when you're wasted all the time.
--Catherine Zandonella
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 6:43 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Begining to build
>
> Hello to the group. I just sent an order to Dan's Small Part's for most of
> the parts for the 2n2/40 as found on the web page. I used that parts list
> from that page and I understand That you have an updated schematic with
> improvements. Please let me know where I can get that information.
>
> I plan to put the radio in a nice Ten Tec box with small wire lift to make
> it face me. This is a standard box and costs $40.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Greetings Karl,
Allow me to echo Lee's welcome. This is a very exciting project. It is
highly educational and rewarding. Frustrating at times but persistence
will get you through all obstacles. Plus there are folks on this list
that are readily willing to help - not the least of whom is the designer
himself. Sort of like taking a course taught by the author of the text.
Try to build in all the latest circuit changes. They are all good. Like
Lee mentioned, all the latest have been posted to the photos and files
sections of the group. And most importantly, have fun. Keep us posted.
72 es GL,
Arth W6AGS
|
1556|1553|2002-01-31 02:00:45|Wes Clopton|Re: Beginning to build|Welcome to the group Karl,
In the FILE section here in the yahoogroup page you will find the
latest K8IQY drawings of the newest version of the 2n2-40.
Also there is a lot of good Photos in the PHOTO section..
WesAt 06:43 PM 1/30/02, you wrote:
>Hello to the group. I just sent an order to Dan's Small Part's for most of
>the parts for the 2n2/40 as found on the web page. I used that parts list
>from that page and I understand That you have an updated schematic with
>improvements. Please let me know where I can get that information.
>
>I plan to put the radio in a nice Ten Tec box with small wire lift to make
>it face me. This is a standard box and costs $40.
>
>--
>Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
Jim - A two-band 17m/40m bicycle-mobile rig is a great
idea! Adding SSB will be fine too! -HW, WP4GVW (ex
KP4ABF)
--- "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <
jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
> At 09:18 AM 1/30/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >-snip-
> >
> >Hey Jim! How about coming up with a SSB version
> next?
>
> Hmmmmmm. How about a 2 band SSB/CW rig that is on
> the drawing
> board? 40 and 17, and designed for bicycle mobile
> operation, with
> a wide range, 150 KHz, VXO. The overall rig is
> designed, and the
> VXO has been prototyped, as has the 2nd band (17m)
> hardward. That's
> where the 4017 transverter idea came from.
>
> 72 and stay tuned,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions!
http://auctions.yahoo.comHi Karl,
Welcome to the 2n2-40 group on Yahoo!.
The updated schematics are in PDF format and located in the file area of
our web group at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40 - you must be a
Yahoo! member to access the files. There are other files of interest
there as well as a mod you might be interested in after you build.
Be sure to have a look at the message archives at the aforementioned
site; lots and lots of good 2n2-40 discussion has taken place since the
group started.
Good luck building your 2n2-40!
73,
John, N1QO
"Karl F. Larsen" wrote:
>
> Hello to the group. I just sent an order to Dan's Small Part's for most of
> the parts for the 2n2/40 as found on the web page. I used that parts list
> from that page and I understand That you have an updated schematic with
> improvements. Please let me know where I can get that information.
>
> I plan to put the radio in a nice Ten Tec box with small wire lift to make
> it face me. This is a standard box and costs $40.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com> ... Sort of like taking a course taught by the author of the text.
Been there, done that, several times. This is MUCH, MUCH better!!
Lee
Consistently separating words by spaces became a general custom
about the tenth century A.D., and lasted until about 1957, when
FORTRAN abandoned the practice.
--Sun FORTRAN Reference Manual
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arth Silvers" <w6ags@arrl.net>
To: "2N2/40 Group Build" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 12:52 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Beginning to build
> Greetings Karl,
>
> Allow me to echo Lee's welcome. This is a very exciting project. It is
> highly educational and rewarding. Frustrating at times but persistence
> will get you through all obstacles. Plus there are folks on this list
> that are readily willing to help - not the least of whom is the designer
> Try to build in all the latest circuit changes. They are all good. Like
> Lee mentioned, all the latest have been posted to the photos and files
> sections of the group. And most importantly, have fun. Keep us posted.
>
> 72 es GL,
> Arth W6AGS
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
All,
Got the Receiver back up after adding the audio amp and 2N7000 switch
modifications. Nice signals with piece of wire on the table for an
antenna. Now to the transmitter section.
Thanks to all for the help so far on this project. Hope to be working
some other 2N2-40s soon. I need to quit fiddling with the receiver and
get something the transmitter built....
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
|
1561|1553|2002-01-31 12:16:08|Mark Schoonover|Re: Begining to build|Karl & the Group,
Now I don't feel so bad!! I started out getting all the parts about
6 weeks ago but had to hold off starting to build because my one build night
was taken up by my son making the All Star soccer team! I took this time to
save up for the AADE L/C meter and will build that first. That should help
greatly in assembling the 2n2-40...
72 - .mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Karl F. Larsen [mailto:
k5di@zianet.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 3:43 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Begining to build
Hello to the group. I just sent an order to Dan's Small Part's for most of
the parts for the 2n2/40 as found on the web page. I used that parts list
from that page and I understand That you have an updated schematic with
improvements. Please let me know where I can get that information.
I plan to put the radio in a nice Ten Tec box with small wire lift to make
it face me. This is a standard box and costs $40.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/The AADE L/C meter or my Fluke DMM were used on almost every part! Much
better to find out that the capacitor marked 103 isn't a .01 before it is
inserted and surrounded by 15 other parts!
Lee
There is nothing wrong with sobriety in moderation.
-- John Ciardi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schoonover" <schoon@amgt.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 12:19 PM
Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Begining to build
> Karl & the Group,
>
> Now I don't feel so bad!! I started out getting all the parts about
> 6 weeks ago but had to hold off starting to build because my one build
night
> was taken up by my son making the All Star soccer team! I took this time
to
> save up for the AADE L/C meter and will build that first. That should help
> greatly in assembling the 2n2-40...
>
> 72 - .mark
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Karl F. Larsen [mailto:k5di@zianet.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 3:43 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Begining to build
>
>
>
> Hello to the group. I just sent an order to Dan's Small Part's for most of
> the parts for the 2n2/40 as found on the web page. I used that parts list
> from that page and I understand That you have an updated schematic with
> improvements. Please let me know where I can get that information.
>
> I plan to put the radio in a nice Ten Tec box with small wire lift to make
> it face me. This is a standard box and costs $40.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
So true , Lee. But I couldn't think of a better analogy while writing
the post. Errr... let's see...being backup quarterback to Y.A. Tittle,
Johnny Unitas?...err..playing doubles with Vitas Geralitis..no.. Anna
Kournikova ..err no..searching for the holy grail with Parsival.. I got
it...being on the same team with Tiger Woods in a scramble.. Any
suggestions?
72,
Arth W6AGS
Been there, done that, several times.
This is MUCH, MUCH better!!
Lee
Consistently separating words by
spaces became a general custom
about the tenth century A.D., and
lasted until about 1957, when
FORTRAN abandoned the practice.
--Sun FORTRAN Reference Manual
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arth Silvers"
To: "2N2/40 Group Build"
<2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 12:52 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Beginning to build
I got these files and the linux adobe works fine with them. It
looks like 5 or 6 schematics and a new bill of parts. Just glanced at that
and it looks like not too much different. Took awhile to figure out how
that crazy yahoo display thing works.
I will be building the rig as part of a builders group in our
radio club. There are about 15 Hams that have learned that old tv's and
portable telephones and vcr's have a LOT of parts that work when building
QRP radios. About half the parts for the 2n2 came from junk. The rest from
Dan's small parts and Ten Tec for the very pretty box.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/Karl,
Which version of Linux are you running (Redhat, etc)
and what is your hardware ? I am thinking of giving
Linux a try!
Thanks,
D.K. Philbin KD6TK
--- "Karl F. Larsen" <
k5di@zianet.com> wrote:
>
> I got these files and the linux adobe works fine
> with them. It
> looks like 5 or 6 schematics and a new bill of
> parts. Just glanced at that
> and it looks like not too much different. Took
> awhile to figure out how
> that crazy yahoo display thing works.
>
> I will be building the rig as part of a builders
> group in our
> radio club. There are about 15 Hams that have
> learned that old tv's and
> portable telephones and vcr's have a LOT of parts
> that work when building
> QRP radios. About half the parts for the 2n2 came
> from junk. The rest from
> Dan's small parts and Ten Tec for the very pretty
> box.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303
> -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions!
http://auctions.yahoo.comHi Don, I have been using linux since 1993 and have watched it grow and
even had a small part in the growth. I'm now using Red Hat version 7.2
which I bought from www.cheapbytes.com for $9.00. It's 2 cd-roms and it
has a couple of bugs, as always.
The Hardeware is 250 meg of ram, 30 gb HD and the usual cd burner floppy
disk USB port. I have windows 98 in a 2 gb partition, old linux in 2 10 gb
partitions and this is in a 5 gb partition. The cpu chugs along at 200 MHz
and I will upgrade soon to a GHz.
On Fri, 1 Feb 2002, Don Philbin wrote:
> Karl,
>
> Which version of Linux are you running (Redhat, etc)
> and what is your hardware ? I am thinking of giving
> Linux a try!
> Thanks,
>
> D.K. Philbin KD6TK
> --- "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com> wrote:
> >
> > I got these files and the linux adobe works fine
> > with them. It
> > looks like 5 or 6 schematics and a new bill of
> > parts. Just glanced at that
> > and it looks like not too much different. Took
> > awhile to figure out how
> > that crazy yahoo display thing works.
> >
> > I will be building the rig as part of a builders
> > group in our
> > radio club. There are about 15 Hams that have
> > learned that old tv's and
> > portable telephones and vcr's have a LOT of parts
> > that work when building
> > QRP radios. About half the parts for the 2n2 came
> > from junk. The rest from
> > Dan's small parts and Ten Tec for the very pretty
> > box.
> >
> > --
> > Yours Truly,
> >
> > - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303
> > -
> > http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions!
> http://auctions.yahoo.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
Are R57, R58 and R59 really 2.2 (Two point Two) ohm resistors? My
developer's kit only has 2 ohm resistors. I assume they are worthy
substitutes. Its getting down to the short strokes now!!!
73 de Lee
km4yy
You plot the growth of the NEA [National Education Association] and the
dropping of SAT scores, and they're inversely proportional. The problems
are unions in the schools. The problem is bureaucracy. I'm one of these
people who believes the best thing we could ever do is go to the full
voucher system.
--Steve Jobs, Wired Magazine, Feb. 96
|
1568|1567|2002-02-01 18:13:33|Wes Clopton|Re: Transmitter Question|yep 2.2 ohm...got mine in radio shack assortment
At 06:11 PM 2/1/02, you wrote:
>Are R57, R58 and R59 really 2.2 (Two point Two) ohm resistors? My
>developer's kit only has 2 ohm resistors. I assume they are worthy
>substitutes. Its getting down to the short strokes now!!!
>73 de Lee
>km4yy
>
>You plot the growth of the NEA [National Education Association] and the
>dropping of SAT scores, and they're inversely proportional. The problems
>are unions in the schools. The problem is bureaucracy. I'm one of these
>people who believes the best thing we could ever do is go to the full
>voucher system.
> --Steve Jobs, Wired Magazine, Feb. 96
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Im sorry Lee, I dont give very complete answers, Do I?
Id sub with a larger value , If you dont have a 2.2 ohm resistor.
These emitter resistors in the finals are to current limit and set the bas .
At 06:11 PM 2/1/02, you wrote:
>Are R57, R58 and R59 really 2.2 (Two point Two) ohm resistors? My
>developer's kit only has 2 ohm resistors. I assume they are worthy
>substitutes. Its getting down to the short strokes now!!!
>73 de Lee
>km4yy
>
>You plot the growth of the NEA [National Education Association] and the
>dropping of SAT scores, and they're inversely proportional. The problems
>are unions in the schools. The problem is bureaucracy. I'm one of these
>people who believes the best thing we could ever do is go to the full
>voucher system.
> --Steve Jobs, Wired Magazine, Feb. 96
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 06:11 PM 2/1/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Are R57, R58 and R59 really 2.2 (Two point Two) ohm resistors?
Yes, they are really 2.2 ohms in my rig.
> My
>developer's kit only has 2 ohm resistors.
Those will work just fine. Not a critical value.
> I assume they are worthy
>substitutes.
Yup........
> Its getting down to the short strokes now!!!
Making RF before the weekend is done I'll bet!
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Good News. My VFO just passed the 12 volt reversed
polarity test. Hot Dog. I breezed through that fit
of stupidity. Now I need to study how I got that
lucky. Other times have resulted in smoke. I would
have hated to change those transistors because they
were smd's.
72,
Kaye K8GZ
|
1572|1572|2002-02-01 22:41:58|Karl F. Larsen|Transmitter Modification|Since I'm a Fox Hunt lover I want a full Gallon from my
transmitters. So in a break with from nothing but 2n2222 I'm going to use
a FET in the final of the transmitter. It will be a Radio Shack IFR510
Mosfet which I think a single class B 2n2222 can drive to over 10 watts.
So I will need a control on the drive and hold things down to the legal 5
watts. The space on the board will be fine.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/I wonder if a picture with pad locations exist? I can do my best
by staring at the schematic, the space and the components, counting wires
and all, but since this radio has been built so many times, I wonder if
it's available.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/Karl wrote:
> I wonder if a picture with pad locations exist? I can do my best
>by staring at the schematic, the space and the components, counting wires
>and all, but since this radio has been built so many times, I wonder if
>it's available.
Karl,
Paul, NA5N, has reprinted the QRPp issue with all the info on pad
locations, testing proceedures, etc. I would suggest that you order it, it
is well worth it! One thing, if you build the "new" version, there will be
some modifications to the pad locations made in a couple of the sections.
72 es GUD building
Dennis - WB0WAO
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.> Making RF before the weekend is done I'll bet!
>
I wish... The "Honey-Do" list has gotten out of hand, Looks like the
solder will be hard until Monday afternoon when she goes off to work...
73 de Lee
km4yy
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools."
- Herbert Spencer
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Transmitter Question
Karl,
The reprint of the QRPp that features the 2n2/40 has a pad location
layout in it. The only problem is you will be building an updated
version of that radio.
See my page at:
http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/2n2-40/closeup.html - it has a
bunch of high-res photos of the 2n2-40+ I built and should assist you in
creating a layout of your own. I doubt you'll want to do it the exact
way I did (the next one I build will be a little different), but it
should be enough to get you started.
73,
John, N1QO
"Karl F. Larsen" wrote:
>
> I wonder if a picture with pad locations exist? I can do my best
> by staring at the schematic, the space and the components, counting wires
> and all, but since this radio has been built so many times, I wonder if
> it's available.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comKarl,
I'm sure the group would be interested in all the details of your mod
when you build it. I know I am. Might be neat to have a switch that can
cut in the "high power" finals when needed.
73,
John, N1QO
"Karl F. Larsen" wrote:
>
> Since I'm a Fox Hunt lover I want a full Gallon from my
> transmitters. So in a break with from nothing but 2n2222 I'm going to use
> a FET in the final of the transmitter. It will be a Radio Shack IFR510
> Mosfet which I think a single class B 2n2222 can drive to over 10 watts.
> So I will need a control on the drive and hold things down to the legal 5
> watts. The space on the board will be fine.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comIf you want a pleasant sounding speaker for your 2n2-40
Get a 6 inch length of 3 inch PVC and slide a 3 inch speaker
in it. about a 1 1/2 in you will hear a 700 hz peak..try it..
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
|
1579|1579|2002-02-02 22:17:52|Patrick York|RIT Question|Hello Gang,
I just finished the audio amplifier. I haven't tested it yet....don't want
to burst my bubble. I am about to start the RIT. Here is my question:
R68 is 1.6K, which I don't have on hand. Can I sub a 1.5k or 1.8k? Should
I try to "file" a 1.5k to "bring it up" to 1.6? Hopefully I can complete
the RIT this weekend and begin the transmit section next week! Can't wait
to finish!! Thanks in advance!
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
|
1580|1580|2002-02-02 22:32:17|Patrick York|Plexiglass Cover for enclosure|Once I complete my 2N2/40 and mount it in the enclosure, I still want to be
able to see the board. I love the plexiglass cover that John, N1QO made
for his rig. John, hope you don't mind if I "steal" your idea. I just
happened to acquire a large sheet of plexiglass that was being discarded
where I work. Any suggestions/tips for working with plexiglass? How is
the best way to cut it? What should I use to glue it together? A lexan
cover pre-formed to the shape of the enclosure sure would be nice!
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
|
1581|1579|2002-02-02 22:32:22|Kevin M.|Re: RIT Question|Patrick,
I used a 1.5k resistor in its place. It works fine.
I think it might change the linearity of the vfo, but only a little.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick York" <pyork@cetlink.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2002 10:16 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] RIT Question
> Hello Gang,
>
> I just finished the audio amplifier. I haven't tested it yet....don't
want
> to burst my bubble. I am about to start the RIT. Here is my
question:
> R68 is 1.6K, which I don't have on hand. Can I sub a 1.5k or 1.8k?
Should
> I try to "file" a 1.5k to "bring it up" to 1.6? Hopefully I can
complete
> the RIT this weekend and begin the transmit section next week! Can't
wait
> to finish!! Thanks in advance!
>
> 72 de Pat KF4LMZ
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I would be quite pleased if you used my idea!
I used a table saw to cut the plexiglass, but am told a jig saw would
work just as well. Wear safety glasses.
I used plastic model cement to glue the sides together and a strong
epoxy to hold the bolts that screw into the case. Seems to work well.
Good luck - post pictures!
73,
John, N1QO
Patrick York wrote:
>
> Once I complete my 2N2/40 and mount it in the enclosure, I still want to be
> able to see the board. I love the plexiglass cover that John, N1QO made
> for his rig. John, hope you don't mind if I "steal" your idea. I just
> happened to acquire a large sheet of plexiglass that was being discarded
> where I work. Any suggestions/tips for working with plexiglass? How is
> the best way to cut it? What should I use to glue it together? A lexan
> cover pre-formed to the shape of the enclosure sure would be nice!
>
> 72 de Pat KF4LMZ
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 10:16 PM 2/2/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello Gang,
>
>I just finished the audio amplifier. I haven't tested it yet....don't want
>to burst my bubble. I am about to start the RIT. Here is my question:
>R68 is 1.6K, which I don't have on hand. Can I sub a 1.5k or 1.8k? Should
>I try to "file" a 1.5k to "bring it up" to 1.6? Hopefully I can complete
>the RIT this weekend and begin the transmit section next week! Can't wait
>to finish!! Thanks in advance!
>
>72 de Pat KF4LMZ
Pat, the 1.6K value is somewhat critical. I'd suggest using a
2.2K in parallel with a 5.6K to get the required value. You'll
only be off 20 ohms with the parallel combo.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
> Pat, the 1.6K value is somewhat critical
Guess I put my foot in my mouth on this one.
Jim,
Can you explain why the 1.6k value is critical? Is it due to the
non-linearity of the MV209? My RIT has 1.89kHz on the top end and
2.08kHz on the bottom end. I used the 1.5k chip resistor for both R67
and R68. Is that why I get a larger deviation on the bottom end of the
pot?
Thanks,
Kevin, KC8SFJ
Still learning the code. Me and a buddy are learning together. I send
to him and then he sends to me. For practice in technique I am sending
into CWGet. I figure if a computer program can decipher my Fist, a
human should be able to.
72
Jim,
The TxLO waveform at the output of T11 isn't a nice sine wave. Is this
due to bias adjustment? Should I attempt to correct before I go on?
73,
Ken
|
1586|1586|2002-02-04 14:53:21|Mark Schoonover|Dumb Transistor Question|Good Afternoon & Thanks for Reading!
Was thinking about transistors this weekend and how they work.... I
am confused about how a transistor can be used with audio frequencies in one
application, and then used to generate RF in another? To me, RF voltages is
vastly different than AF voltages. Or are they just all one happy voltage
family and the only difference is frequency?? The mail carrier dropped off
my AADE L/C meter. As soon as that is built, the 2n2-40 will begin!
72
.mark
|
1587|1579|2002-02-04 20:06:13|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: RIT Question|At 10:07 AM 2/3/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>
>> Pat, the 1.6K value is somewhat critical
>Guess I put my foot in my mouth on this one.
>
>Jim,
>Can you explain why the 1.6k value is critical? Is it due to the
>non-linearity of the MV209? My RIT has 1.89kHz on the top end and
>2.08kHz on the bottom end. I used the 1.5k chip resistor for both R67
>and R68. Is that why I get a larger deviation on the bottom end of the
>pot?
>Thanks,
>Kevin, KC8SFJ
Hi Kevin and group,
I'm down in sunny Florida, in Satellite Beach, at the in-laws for
several days vacationing. Nice 72 degree temps!! Hope to hookup
with some of local hams in the area for coffee and eyeball. Email
me if you are interested.
As for your question, the 1.6K value balances the circuit so that
when you go into transmit, the VFO offset isn't compromised. The
1.6K value is from computer modelling, and I'm willing to accept
it. The non-linearity you are seeing is a function of the non-
linearity of the MV209, and not the collector and emitter resistor
values. To add a bit more detail to the above regarding the 1.6K
in the collector, and the 1.5K in the emitter, here is how it works.
The current through the collector-emitter circuit is approximately
equal, with the emitter currrent being slightly higher due to the addition
of the base current. That's when the transistor is conducting, i.e.,
when in transmit mode. When the transistor is conducting, the voltage
drop across the collector resistor, the 1.6K should exactly match
the the voltage drop across the collector-emitter junction plus the
drop across the emitter resistor. The voltage across the collector-
emitter junction is about 0.2 volts, and the remaining amount is made
up of the collector current, and the added base currrent. Those two
currents times the 1.5K resistor gives us the same voltage drop as
occurs from the voltage drop created by the collector current times
the 1.6K resistor. The design is such that if everything works as
modelled, we have 1/2 the supply voltage going to the MV209 during
RIT operation in receive, with the control pot set at it's center,and
the same 1/2 supply voltage when in transmit mode, regardless of where
the RIT pot is set. It's not perfect, but close enough to work well.
So the value of the two resistors in the collector circuit and emitter
circuit are somewhat critical to make the RIT work as designed during
the transmit mode.
Hope that all makes sense. It's a bit fragmented, but that's what you
get when typing a quick email answer.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
just had my first qso with my 2n240. 559 from k8wol.
ill be on 70400 tonite
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
|
1589|1579|2002-02-04 22:28:57|macstein@aol.com|Re: RIT Question|JIM!!!
Welcome back to Florida! If you swing by the West Coast, I'll buy the
coffee, and you can chuckle at my construction!
-MAC-
AF4PS
|
1590|1588|2002-02-04 23:11:12|John Wagner|Re: first qso||
1591|1586|2002-02-04 23:30:57|John Wagner|Re: Dumb Transistor Question|Disclaimer; I am just a grasshopper here among the masters...
The only difference is in the frequency. The audio frequencies we're
talking about are in the 200Hz to 1500Hz range and the RF we're dealing
with is in the MHz range. However they are both alternating current and
the transistor is serving as an amplifier of it.
There is a maximum frequency that a transistor is rated at and this is
called the transisition frequency (ft). This is the point (in freq)
where the transistor drops to 0.707 times it's maximum value. For a
2n2222 this is 250Mhz. The lower point of the frequency response is set
by the resistors and capacitors in the circuit.
Again, I know enough to be dangerous - you should probably research this
yourself on something like Google - look up "transition frequency"
and/or "frequency response 2n2222" - you should get lots of good info.
73,
John, N1QO
Mark Schoonover wrote:
>
> Good Afternoon & Thanks for Reading!
>
> Was thinking about transistors this weekend and how they work.... I
> am confused about how a transistor can be used with audio frequencies in one
> application, and then used to generate RF in another? To me, RF voltages is
> vastly different than AF voltages. Or are they just all one happy voltage
> family and the only difference is frequency?? The mail carrier dropped off
> my AADE L/C meter. As soon as that is built, the 2n2-40 will begin!
>
> 72
>
> .mark
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi Mark, the fact is that it's simple. Radio frequency waves are identical
to Audio frequency waves. The differance is in the frequency. Transistors
can be hooked up as amplifiers. There are transistor characteristics that
were measured when the transistor was first made, that tell you how high a
frequency it will work at.
If you make the amplifier circuit right it will amplify Direct
Current (DC) and alternating current up to a frequency way above 10 MHz.
But if you want good gain from the amplifier it helps to make the
amplifier for the band of interest.
So an audio amp has a audio transformer at the output like the amp
in the 2N2 radio. The RF amp has a toroidal coil tuned to 7 MHz at the
output.
If you don't have the ARRL Handbook try to get one.
On Mon, 4 Feb 2002, Mark Schoonover wrote:
> Good Afternoon & Thanks for Reading!
>
> Was thinking about transistors this weekend and how they work.... I
> am confused about how a transistor can be used with audio frequencies in one
> application, and then used to generate RF in another? To me, RF voltages is
> vastly different than AF voltages. Or are they just all one happy voltage
> family and the only difference is frequency?? The mail carrier dropped off
> my AADE L/C meter. As soon as that is built, the 2n2-40 will begin!
>
> 72
>
> .mark
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
Good idea Karl,
Here in Maryland we worry a lot about Lyme disease from Ticks
but Ill check it out :>}
I made my first QSO with my 2n240 last night and am really pleased
with the Rig. Guess ill put it in a case now....hihi
Wes W3ERU
At 07:50 AM 2/5/02, you wrote:
> I went by Embedded Research yesterday and found the Tick4 keyer
>which is really nice with 2 memories and all the other stuff sells for
>$27.50 deliverd. You can see them at:
>
> http://www.embres.com/tick.htm
>
>and I know lots of guys who use them.
>
>--
>Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Ive had so much fun building the 2n2-40 . Id like to see a 2n2-30
or 2n2=20 in the near future.
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
|
1596|1595|2002-02-05 10:40:26|Lee Mairs|Re: Lets carry on....|Roger that!
Lee, km4yy
All right, they're on our left, they're on our right, they're in front of
us,
they're behind us. They can't get away this time!
-- General "Chesty" Puller
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@drix.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 9:29 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Lets carry on....
> Ive had so much fun building the 2n2-40 . Id like to see a 2n2-30
> or 2n2=20 in the near future.
>
>
> W3ERU Wes
> ARRL
> FISTS #2099
> QRPARCI 8304
> QRP-L 2179
> CW is my Mode
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
These Ticks have been sprayed and are safe. They come from Rochester NY
and would not be allowed over the line otherwise...:-)
On Tue, 5 Feb 2002, Wes Clopton wrote:
> Good idea Karl,
> Here in Maryland we worry a lot about Lyme disease from Ticks
> but Ill check it out :>}
> I made my first QSO with my 2n240 last night and am really pleased
> with the Rig. Guess ill put it in a case now....hihi
>
> Wes W3ERU
>
> At 07:50 AM 2/5/02, you wrote:
>
> > I went by Embedded Research yesterday and found the Tick4 keyer
> >which is really nice with 2 memories and all the other stuff sells for
> >$27.50 deliverd. You can see them at:
> >
> > http://www.embres.com/tick.htm
> >
> >and I know lots of guys who use them.
> >
> >--
> >Yours Truly,
> >
> > - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> > http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
At 08:16 PM 2/4/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>just had my first qso with my 2n240. 559 from k8wol.
>ill be on 70400 tonite
>
>
>W3ERU Wes
Wes.....congrats on building the rig and getting it on the air.
I'm so proud of you, and others in the group who have successfully
done the same thing. Hope to work you when I get back home. I didn't
bring a rig to Florida. Too many other toys to put in the suitcase!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 09:29 AM 2/5/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> Ive had so much fun building the 2n2-40 . Id like to see a 2n2-30
>or 2n2=20 in the near future.
Wes,
Most of the details of a 2N2/30 have been worked out, and at least
one person that I know is about to build one. The details aren't
published yet, but could be with a little work on my part. I'm not
making any promises, but maybe I can get that done before the cycling
season arrives. Once that happens, all of my spare time is spend
outside getting fit and having fun in the sun.
I've also published the receive section of the 2N2/15 on my webpage,
but have not finished the design of the Tx section. Although that
is somewhat trivial, it needs to be finished so that others can build
that rig also. The 2N2/15 is much more sophisticated than the 2N2/40
is. It includes 6 poles of IF filtering, and AGC. A much better
receiver than the 2N2/40 has.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 11:56 AM 2/4/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>Good Afternoon & Thanks for Reading!
>
> Was thinking about transistors this weekend and how they work.... I
>am confused about how a transistor can be used with audio frequencies in one
>application, and then used to generate RF in another? To me, RF voltages is
>vastly different than AF voltages.
Fortunately, not true. They are the same, and follow the same rules
of Physics.
Or are they just all one happy voltage
>family and the only difference is frequency??
Yes......makes like much easier that way.
The mail carrier dropped off
>my AADE L/C meter. As soon as that is built, the 2n2-40 will begin!
You will really like your AADE. I use mine all the time.
72 and good building Mark,
Jim, K8IQY
At 06:28 PM 2/4/2002 -0000, you wrote:
>Jim,
Greetings Ken,
>
>The TxLO waveform at the output of T11 isn't a nice sine wave.
If you are talking about the waveform at T11, pin 1, it isn't a
good sinewave,and doesn't need to be. Compare what you are getting
to the waveform picture that is on the Yahoo web page, and see if
they are similar. If grossly different, that may indicate a problem.
Is this
>due to bias adjustment?
Could be, but most likely not.
Should I attempt to correct before I go on?
Depends on how bad it really is. Off hand, I'd guess what you have
is fine, and that the downstream filters will correct any harmonic
problems.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I second the comment on the AADE L/C meters value in building stuff. I'd
also add that I check every part with either the AADE or my DVM. I've
detected lots of errors (especially with capacitors marked 103 and 104!)
using these tools before the error was solidified in solder.
Even tho I know the color code almost to perfection, I found an 80 ohm 1/4
watt resistor (White-Black-Brown-Gold) that measured 125 ohms. So did the
second, third and fourth specimen (115-144 ohms) found in my junk box.
These were virgins,too! I even checked with another Fluke meter, but the
whole lot must have been mismarked. Can't you just imagine how much time it
would have taken to found this error, had the part been installed?
It's almost my like my old carpenter buddy used to say, "Measure twice,
install once!"
73 de Lee
KM4YY
-As Bertrand Russell once said, most people would rather die than think;
in fact, many do.
--George H. Smith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Dumb Transistor Question
> At 11:56 AM 2/4/2002 -0800, you wrote:
> >Good Afternoon & Thanks for Reading!
> >
> > Was thinking about transistors this weekend and how they work.... I
> >am confused about how a transistor can be used with audio frequencies in
one
> >application, and then used to generate RF in another? To me, RF voltages
is
> >vastly different than AF voltages.
>
> Fortunately, not true. They are the same, and follow the same rules
> of Physics.
>
> Or are they just all one happy voltage
> >family and the only difference is frequency??
>
> Yes......makes like much easier that way.
>
> The mail carrier dropped off
> >my AADE L/C meter. As soon as that is built, the 2n2-40 will begin!
>
> You will really like your AADE. I use mine all the time.
>
>
> 72 and good building Mark,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Enjoy you vacation in Florida and I look forward to our
QSO....Thanks Jim.......
72
Wes W3ERU
At 08:49 AM 2/5/02, you wrote:
>At 08:16 PM 2/4/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >just had my first qso with my 2n240. 559 from k8wol.
> >ill be on 70400 tonite
> >
> >
> >W3ERU Wes
>
>Wes.....congrats on building the rig and getting it on the air.
>I'm so proud of you, and others in the group who have successfully
>done the same thing. Hope to work you when I get back home. I didn't
>bring a rig to Florida. Too many other toys to put in the suitcase!
>
>72,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hi Jim,
I knew when I sent the message I was being brief. I didn't have
project information readly handy. You got the handle on it in your
reply though.
I just put a file in the folder I created last time. This file is a
picture of the waveform (labeled Pin1_T11_.5VPerDiv, I believe, from
memory). As you can see the top half of the waveform seems to have a
peak in it while the lower half seems OK. I've not read bias voltages
yet. Really need to check the next stage bias voltages as well as I
now have it on the board but not any signal at the trim pot. I must
start at the beginning diagnostics to get more information to trouble
shoot.
Had to move the construction project build site as the two year old
twins are coming for a visit next week. Little hands can make a mess
of things so I'll not get any time on the project until sometime in
two weeks after they leave.
Thanks for all your help and being there when needed.
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 06:28 PM 2/4/2002 -0000, you wrote:
> >Jim,
> Greetings Ken,
> >
> >The TxLO waveform at the output of T11 isn't a nice sine wave.
> If you are talking about the waveform at T11, pin 1, it isn't a
> good sinewave,and doesn't need to be. Compare what you are getting
> to the waveform picture that is on the Yahoo web page, and see if
> they are similar. If grossly different, that may indicate a
problem.
>
> Is this
> >due to bias adjustment?
> Could be, but most likely not.
>
> Should I attempt to correct before I go on?
> Depends on how bad it really is. Off hand, I'd guess what you have
> is fine, and that the downstream filters will correct any harmonic
> problems.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Jim,
Since 15 meters is my favorite band (I am a CW guy only) . I may
start the receiver while I wait for the 30 meter rig. :>)
Cant let the Iron cool..................
Wes W3eru
At 03:54 PM 2/5/02, you wrote:
>At 09:29 AM 2/5/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> > Ive had so much fun building the 2n2-40 . Id like to see a 2n2-30
> >or 2n2=20 in the near future.
>
>Wes,
>
>Most of the details of a 2N2/30 have been worked out, and at least
>one person that I know is about to build one. The details aren't
>published yet, but could be with a little work on my part. I'm not
>making any promises, but maybe I can get that done before the cycling
>season arrives. Once that happens, all of my spare time is spend
>outside getting fit and having fun in the sun.
>
>I've also published the receive section of the 2N2/15 on my webpage,
>but have not finished the design of the Tx section. Although that
>is somewhat trivial, it needs to be finished so that others can build
>that rig also. The 2N2/15 is much more sophisticated than the 2N2/40
>is. It includes 6 poles of IF filtering, and AGC. A much better
>receiver than the 2N2/40 has.
>
>72,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hello folks,
Just some ramblings about recent posts:
re: AADE meter. It is a fine meter, but is out of my current
fiscal range. I built (Manhattan style) the inductor and
cap checker out of the handbook. No exotic parts, and
they both fit in altoids tins. Accuracy of the cap checker
is in the single pfs. Accuracy of the L checker is
good enough (don't have any 1% inductors to check it with).
If you need a meter, the AADE is great, but if you don't have
the means, building them out of the handbook is an enjoyable
evenings effort, and I think will meet 99% of our accuracy needs.
re: AF and RF. So if I don't have the money for a meter what
have I been spending it on? Bought the Rutledge/Cal Tech
book about the SW-40 over at Borders. What a great investment
that has been. I was just reading the other night about amplifiers,
and efficiency and transformer coupling etc. There is more math
here than in the handbook, but it still a lot more readable than my
college texts. Great explanation of how the different amps
work.
re: Obligatory 2n2/40 comment. I was stuck on not having a couple
electrolytic caps and had to stop building. I had first ordered
the caps from Dan's and had been disappointed in the quality.
I then ordered from Mouser, and liked the quality, but forgot
(apparently) the electrolytics. I was poking through the latest
Jameco catalog and spied an electrolytic kit for $14. Bought the
electrolytic and the ceramic bypass kits and with shipping it
was about $35. They arrived in 3 days! Just what I needed, and
no NOS. So if you miss out on the Norcal order, take a look
at Jameco. (they DO NOT have an npo kit BTW)
Hope to have the receiver done this weekend.
Cheers
dave /nt1u
David Siegrist
Intel Corp.
334 South St. SHR1-S30
Shrewsbury, Ma 01545
|
1607|1606|2002-02-06 11:24:04|Wes Clopton|Re: ramblings|Your right Dave,
Homebrewing your test equipment is the way to go.
Im looking into building a marker generator , dividing down from
a xtal oscillator.
And a VFO with attenuator outputs for tuning rigs
Wes
At 10:41 AM 2/6/02, you wrote:
> Hello folks,
> Just some ramblings about recent posts:
>
> re: AADE meter. It is a fine meter, but is out of my current
> fiscal range. I built (Manhattan style) the inductor and
> cap checker out of the handbook. No exotic parts, and
> they both fit in altoids tins. Accuracy of the cap checker
> is in the single pfs. Accuracy of the L checker is
> good enough (don't have any 1% inductors to check it with).
>
> If you need a meter, the AADE is great, but if you don't have
> the means, building them out of the handbook is an enjoyable
> evenings effort, and I think will meet 99% of our accuracy needs.
>
>
> re: AF and RF. So if I don't have the money for a meter what
> have I been spending it on? Bought the Rutledge/Cal Tech
> book about the SW-40 over at Borders. What a great investment
> that has been. I was just reading the other night about amplifiers,
> and efficiency and transformer coupling etc. There is more math
> here than in the handbook, but it still a lot more readable than my
> college texts. Great explanation of how the different amps
> work.
>
> re: Obligatory 2n2/40 comment. I was stuck on not having a couple
> electrolytic caps and had to stop building. I had first ordered
> the caps from Dan's and had been disappointed in the quality.
> I then ordered from Mouser, and liked the quality, but forgot
> (apparently) the electrolytics. I was poking through the latest
> Jameco catalog and spied an electrolytic kit for $14. Bought the
> electrolytic and the ceramic bypass kits and with shipping it
> was about $35. They arrived in 3 days! Just what I needed, and
> no NOS. So if you miss out on the Norcal order, take a look
> at Jameco. (they DO NOT have an npo kit BTW)
>
> Hope to have the receiver done this weekend.
>
> Cheers
> dave /nt1u
>
>
>
> David Siegrist
> Intel Corp.
> 334 South St. SHR1-S30
> Shrewsbury, Ma 01545
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 03:24 AM 2/6/2002 -0000, you wrote:
>Hi Jim,
>
>I knew when I sent the message I was being brief. I didn't have
>project information readly handy. You got the handle on it in your
>reply though.
>
>I just put a file in the folder I created last time. This file is a
>picture of the waveform (labeled Pin1_T11_.5VPerDiv, I believe, from
>memory). As you can see the top half of the waveform seems to have a
>peak in it while the lower half seems OK. I've not read bias voltages
>yet. Really need to check the next stage bias voltages as well as I
>now have it on the board but not any signal at the trim pot. I must
>start at the beginning diagnostics to get more information to trouble
>shoot.
Ken,
I just looked at the waveform in question, and it is fine. Keep
building!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Karl F. Larsen"
wrote:
>
> I went by Embedded Research yesterday and found the Tick4
keyer ...
A TiCK 4 is what I use in my 2N2/40 and I can vouch for it. Works
great. What I like best about it is that it retains its settings when
you power the rig down. I'd originally installed a TiCK 3 that I
happened to have lying around but it annoyed me when it would revert
to its default settings for speed, etc., every time I powered up the
rig. Fortunately, I'd socketed it. Out it came and in went the
4. Problem solved.
Another nice addition to your completed 2N2/40 is a Small Wonder Labs
FREQ-Mite annunciator. Usual disclaimer applies... no connection to
SWL other than sitting next to Dave B. at an Atlanticon dinner once
and learning that he's a real nice guy. :-)
72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJJim -
At the bottom LH corner of the Tx scope photos, it says (for example
Q17 base 50mV~. Does that mean 50mV per major division or does it
mean 50mV is the peak to peak voltage?
I've got up to two volts p-p at the output of T13, but no joy at the
driver or finals. Almost there...
73 de Lee, km4yy
|
1611|1611|2002-02-07 13:47:43|Lee Mairs|Another one enters this world!!|My 2N2-40 came alive this afternoon about 1325 after I fixed the driver
output transformer connections. Getting about 2 watts out. NT3U, Arnie in
Pittsburgh can attest to its first screams.
Man, does this feel good, or what? Now if I can only catch Jim Kortge and
John Wagner on with their 2N2-40s, I'll be able to thank them properly -
along with the rest of the gang on this mailing list.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
--Arthur C. Clarke
|
1612|1611|2002-02-07 14:08:09|Wes Clopton|Re: Another one enters this world!!|WOW Thats Great Lee,
Ill be looking for you on 40...2 watts should jump the
Potomac ....Im still awaiting my case......:>)
Wes
At 01:53 PM 2/7/02, you wrote:
>My 2N2-40 came alive this afternoon about 1325 after I fixed the driver
>output transformer connections. Getting about 2 watts out. NT3U, Arnie in
>Pittsburgh can attest to its first screams.
>
>Man, does this feel good, or what? Now if I can only catch Jim Kortge and
>John Wagner on with their 2N2-40s, I'll be able to thank them properly -
>along with the rest of the gang on this mailing list.
>
>73 de Lee
>KM4YY
>
>Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
> --Arthur C. Clarke
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Good Evening!
So I got the AADE L/C meter up and rolling lastnight! Now I'm off to
start sorting all the parts into some form of organization so I don't have
to spend a lot of time looking for things. I have a mixture of 1/8 and 1/4
watt resistors. Are the 1/8 too small??
Thanks & 72
.mark
Programming today is a race between software
engineers striving to build bigger and better
idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying
to produce bigger and better idiots.
So far, the Universe is winning.
--Rich Cook
|
1614|6|2002-02-07 20:33:22|2n2-40@yahoogroups.com|New poll for 2n2-40 |Enter your vote today! A new poll has been created for the
2n2-40 group:
Which version of audio mute circuit do
you use in your 2N2-40?
o Original 2N2222
o Jim's 2N7000 mute circuit mod
o Jim's newest J176 mute circuit mod
To vote, please visit the following web page:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/polls Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are
not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the Yahoo! Groups
web site listed above.
Thanks!
Some time ago there was a thread about a guy who issued 2N2-40 builder
certificates and a serial number after you made a qso with your own 2N2-40.
Can someone fill me in on what the deal is?
73 de Lee
km4yy
When you sit with a nice girl for two hours, you think it's only a
minute. But when you sit on a hot stove for a minute, you think it's
two hours. That's relativity.
--Albert Einstein
|
1616|1610|2002-02-08 08:44:07|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Tx Oscope photos|At 05:21 AM 2/7/2002 -0000, you wrote:
>Jim -
>At the bottom LH corner of the Tx scope photos, it says (for example
>Q17 base 50mV~. Does that mean 50mV per major division or does it
>mean 50mV is the peak to peak voltage?
Hi Lee,
That means 50mv per division, and set for AC coupling, versus
DC.
>
>I've got up to two volts p-p at the output of T13, but no joy at the
>driver or finals. Almost there...
Yup....sure sounds like it. Are you getting excited yet! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 01:53 PM 2/7/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>My 2N2-40 came alive this afternoon about 1325 after I fixed the driver
>output transformer connections.
Ah ha....not having those correct will make a difference.
Getting about 2 watts out. NT3U, Arnie in
>Pittsburgh can attest to its first screams.
Good for you Lee. Got it build, and on the air. Fantastic!!
>
>Man, does this feel good, or what?
I like it too, and it's your rig!
Now if I can only catch Jim Kortge and
>John Wagner on with their 2N2-40s, I'll be able to thank them properly -
>along with the rest of the gang on this mailing list.
We'll have a QSO when I get back home from Florida. I'm sure enjoying
the nice weather down here. Getting lots of bike riding and beach walking
in. Had some rain today, so started my Atlanticon paper. Got the first
5 pages written. I think it's gonna be another good read, and talk!
72 and congrats Lee; another one is alive and putting out RF,
Jim, K8IQY
AH HA NOW THE SCOPE PRINTS MAKE MORE \SENCE..
Ive been trying to figure them out also...You might them all Jim.
Wes
At 12:05 PM 2/7/02, you wrote:
>At 05:21 AM 2/7/2002 -0000, you wrote:
> >Jim -
> >At the bottom LH corner of the Tx scope photos, it says (for example
> >Q17 base 50mV~. Does that mean 50mV per major division or does it
> >mean 50mV is the peak to peak voltage?
>
>Hi Lee,
>
>That means 50mv per division, and set for AC coupling, versus
>DC.
> >
> >I've got up to two volts p-p at the output of T13, but no joy at the
> >driver or finals. Almost there...
>
>Yup....sure sounds like it. Are you getting excited yet! :-)
>
>72,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
OOPS ..You might explain the scope print parameters...Its like getting in
a new car and trying to turn the lights..Until you know what the pictures
means...who knows....:>)
Wes
At 09:00 AM 2/8/02, you wrote:
>AH HA NOW THE SCOPE PRINTS MAKE MORE \SENCE..
>Ive been trying to figure them out also...You might them all Jim.
>
>Wes
>
>At 12:05 PM 2/7/02, you wrote:
> >At 05:21 AM 2/7/2002 -0000, you wrote:
> > >Jim -
> > >At the bottom LH corner of the Tx scope photos, it says (for example
> > >Q17 base 50mV~. Does that mean 50mV per major division or does it
> > >mean 50mV is the peak to peak voltage?
> >
> >Hi Lee,
> >
> >That means 50mv per division, and set for AC coupling, versus
> >DC.
> > >
> > >I've got up to two volts p-p at the output of T13, but no joy at the
> > >driver or finals. Almost there...
> >
> >Yup....sure sounds like it. Are you getting excited yet! :-)
> >
> >72,
> >
> >Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Gang,
I used the 2n7000 mute circuit and also added the 1st stage audio pre-
amp. I did use the 1meg resistor across the 2n7000 though. I found
the sidetone to be too loud with 220k one.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|
1621|6|2002-02-08 14:53:55|Wes Clopton|Re: New poll for 2n2-40|Tell us Kevin were you using a speaker or headset? Im using
the same setup as you, but with the 220k resistor. On a speaker
it sounds just right. Haven't tried a headset yet.
Wes
At 02:32 PM 2/8/02, you wrote:
>Gang,
>I used the 2n7000 mute circuit and also added the 1st stage audio pre-
>amp. I did use the 1meg resistor across the 2n7000 though. I found
>the sidetone to be too loud with 220k one.
>Kevin, KC8SFJ
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> Tell us Kevin were you using a speaker or headset? Im using
> the same setup as you, but with the 220k resistor. On a speaker
> it sounds just right. Haven't tried a headset yet.
>
> Wes
>
I am using the MFJ Clear-Tone speaker. It wasn't blaringly loud. It
was just louder than the CW that was coming in on the speaker from the
receiver. I lowered the sidetone volume to be more like the received
volume.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
The certificates are real nice. Contact Preston Douglas, WJ2V,
at
PDouglas12@aol.com. For a picture of your rig, first contact info,
and a SASE, Preston will send you a numbered certificate. I am proud
to boast that mine is number 16.
At 04:49 PM 2/7/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>Good Evening!
>
> So I got the AADE L/C meter up and rolling lastnight! Now I'm off to
>start sorting all the parts into some form of organization so I don't have
>to spend a lot of time looking for things. I have a mixture of 1/8 and 1/4
>watt resistors. Are the 1/8 too small??
No, they should work just fine Mark.
72 and good building,
Jim, K8IQY
Let's get the first 2n2/40 activity night going when Jim gets back to
his QTH.
Sound good?
73,
John, N1QO
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> My 2N2-40 came alive this afternoon about 1325 after I fixed the driver
> output transformer connections. Getting about 2 watts out. NT3U, Arnie in
> Pittsburgh can attest to its first screams.
>
> Man, does this feel good, or what? Now if I can only catch Jim Kortge and
> John Wagner on with their 2N2-40s, I'll be able to thank them properly -
> along with the rest of the gang on this mailing list.
>
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
> Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
> --Arthur C. Clarke
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comSounds good to me!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
2N2/40+ #26
|
1627|1627|2002-02-10 11:08:45|Wes Clopton|Filter setup|I remember some comments about using both
the VBF and Fixed 4pole filter in series and needing
a boost in IF gain AMP to make it work.
I wonder if any information is available ..
Wes w3eru
|
1628|1611|2002-02-10 11:10:55|Wes Clopton|Re: Another one enters this world!!||
1629|1629|2002-02-10 11:32:16|Wes Clopton|dumb tricks|Now I qualify for the dummy award..
Ive been trouble shooting my 2n240 for a week
now wondering why I only got 1 watt out, My scope
showed 33 volts P2P but my WM-2 said 1 watt.
Finally found the problem, Dont put 1n914's in place of
1n34's in the power meter...BOY 2.1 watts now....
WES
|
1630|1630|2002-02-11 16:54:30|Karl F. Larsen|Dan's came through|Well the waiting is over. I have everything less the Box to build
my 2N2/40 radio and will get busy building.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/I want to add the RIT circuit to my 2N2-20, but can't find any place that
has MV109 varactors. Seems to me that I saw someone offering these
recently. Anybody remember who?
73 de Lee
km4yy
Professor Goddard does not know the relation between action and reaction and
the
need to have something better than a vacuum against which to react. He
seems to
lack the basic knowledge ladled out daily in high schools.
--1921 New York Times editorial about Robert Goddard's revolutionary
rocket work.
|
1632|1631|2002-02-11 22:49:16|Wes Clopton|Re: MV109 Varactors|Try this url LEE
http://www.kitsandparts.com/specials.html wes
At 10:44 PM 2/11/02, you wrote:
> I want to add the RIT circuit to my 2N2-20, but can't find any place that
>has MV109 varactors. Seems to me that I saw someone offering these
>recently. Anybody remember who?
>73 de Lee
>km4yy
>
>Professor Goddard does not know the relation between action and reaction and
>the
>need to have something better than a vacuum against which to react. He
>seems to
>lack the basic knowledge ladled out daily in high schools.
> --1921 New York Times editorial about Robert Goddard's revolutionary
>rocket work.
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Sorry. I meant MV 209 varactors.
73 de Lee, KM4YY
User error. Smash forehead on keyboard to continue...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: "Low Power Amateur Radio Discussion" <qrp-l@Lehigh.EDU>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 10:44 PM
Subject: MV109 Varactors
> I want to add the RIT circuit to my 2N2-20, but can't find any place that
> has MV109 varactors. Seems to me that I saw someone offering these
> recently. Anybody remember who?
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
> Professor Goddard does not know the relation between action and reaction
and
> the
> need to have something better than a vacuum against which to react. He
> seems to
> lack the basic knowledge ladled out daily in high schools.
> --1921 New York Times editorial about Robert Goddard's revolutionary
> rocket work.
>
>
I would like to see data on a 20 meter version. I would hope it
could be switched in or out as needed. But whatever, if someone has the
data or can direct me to a web site please do.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/At 11:08 AM 2/10/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>I remember some comments about using both
>the VBF and Fixed 4pole filter in series and needing
>a boost in IF gain AMP to make it work.
>
>I wonder if any information is available ..
>
>Wes w3eru
Wes,
Another way to add the second, fixed bandwidth filter is cascase
is to put the same amplifier ahead of it that preceeds the VBW amplifier,
namely, a repeat of the post-mixer amplifier, but toned dow a bit in
gain. Also, with the addition of the audio pre-amp, one would probbably
not need additional gain ahead of the second filter, there is more
than enough additional to make up for the added insertion loss of the
second filter.
Is far as implementing it, probably the best way is to add it in, and simply
bypass the input to the output when not needed using a SPST switch. Both
filters are close enough to each other in input/output impedance so that
no additional matching is required.
If you do proceed with adding the second filter, post to the list your
results. I've not taken the time to add a second filter in my rig, but
keep thinking I'd like to try it. Other priorities seem to keep getting
in the way!! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim -
What size ground plane pc board do you recommend for folks interested in
starting in on the 2N2-15 receiver per your web page?
Lee
KM4YY
There is nothing wrong with sobriety in moderation.
-- John Ciardi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 4:59 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Filter setup
> At 11:08 AM 2/10/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >I remember some comments about using both
> >the VBF and Fixed 4pole filter in series and needing
> >a boost in IF gain AMP to make it work.
> >
> >I wonder if any information is available ..
> >
> >Wes w3eru
>
> Wes,
>
> Another way to add the second, fixed bandwidth filter is cascase
> is to put the same amplifier ahead of it that preceeds the VBW amplifier,
> namely, a repeat of the post-mixer amplifier, but toned dow a bit in
> gain. Also, with the addition of the audio pre-amp, one would probbably
> not need additional gain ahead of the second filter, there is more
> than enough additional to make up for the added insertion loss of the
> second filter.
>
> Is far as implementing it, probably the best way is to add it in, and
simply
> bypass the input to the output when not needed using a SPST switch. Both
> filters are close enough to each other in input/output impedance so that
> no additional matching is required.
>
> If you do proceed with adding the second filter, post to the list your
> results. I've not taken the time to add a second filter in my rig, but
> keep thinking I'd like to try it. Other priorities seem to keep getting
> in the way!! :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Well after a brief break from building I have my VFO up and working.
I am curious I measured about 3 volts peak to peak on the RX VFO, but
the TX VFO seems to be significantly less than that. What should the
output be for the TX VFO? I am building off the original version from
QRPp. It tunes from about 2.085 - 2.173. I had to correct a few
mistakes but am happy to have finnished the next stage. Once I play
with the VFO a little bit more I guess it is on the Front End!
|
1639|1571|2002-02-14 09:54:22|Wes Clopton|Re: VFO|The RXVFO readings are good if:
a. they are made into a load..ie..100ohm resister
or DBM
b. the measurement should flat (EQUAL) thru
the tuning range . If not the T5 may need tuning
The TXVFO will be less and unleveled .
Sorry I dont have the numbers handy.
In my opinion Your OK so keep building..
Wes W3ERU
At 10:36 PM 2/13/02, you wrote:
>Well after a brief break from building I have my VFO up and working.
>I am curious I measured about 3 volts peak to peak on the RX VFO, but
>the TX VFO seems to be significantly less than that. What should the
>output be for the TX VFO? I am building off the original version from
>QRPp. It tunes from about 2.085 - 2.173. I had to correct a few
>mistakes but am happy to have finnished the next stage. Once I play
>with the VFO a little bit more I guess it is on the Front End!
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
These voltages seem fine to me... I would keep building!
I recall my p2p on the tx vfo was less but don't remember the numbers.
What is the exact reading?
73,
John, N1QO
n3knz wrote:
>
> Well after a brief break from building I have my VFO up and working.
> I am curious I measured about 3 volts peak to peak on the RX VFO, but
> the TX VFO seems to be significantly less than that. What should the
> output be for the TX VFO? I am building off the original version from
> QRPp. It tunes from about 2.085 - 2.173. I had to correct a few
> mistakes but am happy to have finnished the next stage. Once I play
> with the VFO a little bit more I guess it is on the Front End!
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 07:03 PM 2/13/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Jim -
>What size ground plane pc board do you recommend for folks interested in
>starting in on the 2N2-15 receiver per your web page?
>Lee
>KM4YY
Lee,
I think the receive strip is built on a 5X7 inch substrate, but it may be a
7X9. I'm still in Florida, so can't fetch it to take a look easily. If you
can wait until next week, I can post the exact dimensions.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:36 AM 2/14/2002 -0000, you wrote:
>Well after a brief break from building I have my VFO up and working.
>I am curious I measured about 3 volts peak to peak on the RX VFO, but
>the TX VFO seems to be significantly less than that. What should the
>output be for the TX VFO? I am building off the original version from
>QRPp. It tunes from about 2.085 - 2.173. I had to correct a few
>mistakes but am happy to have finnished the next stage. Once I play
>with the VFO a little bit more I guess it is on the Front End!
The signal levels in both the receive and transmitter are shown in
the series of oscilloscope pictures that I posted to the Yahoo 2n2-40
web page. The answer to your question is in one of those photos.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
No problem. I'm just getting antsy to build something. It would allow me
to put making the 2N2-40 enclosure (something I am really inept at) for
awhile.
Finished Steve's rf power digital meter this morning. Very neat project. I
was very patient and used three sets of glasses (sometimes in series!) to
make sure I got the parts identified (the hardest part) and installed w/o
bridges. Worked right off the bat, so now it too is now in the enclosure
queue.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
A man's hatred is always concentrated upon that which makes him
conscious of his bad qualities.
--Carl Gustav Jung
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 5:30 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Filter setup
> At 07:03 PM 2/13/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >Jim -
> >What size ground plane pc board do you recommend for folks interested in
> >starting in on the 2N2-15 receiver per your web page?
> >Lee
> >KM4YY
>
> Lee,
>
> I think the receive strip is built on a 5X7 inch substrate, but it may be
a
> 7X9. I'm still in Florida, so can't fetch it to take a look easily. If
you
> can wait until next week, I can post the exact dimensions.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
It was about .8 V Peak to Peak for the TX VFO (A little less than
one). I should have sent that along with my RX but it was getting
late and I had powered everything down. (Except the PC).
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> These voltages seem fine to me... I would keep building!
>
> I recall my p2p on the tx vfo was less but don't remember the
numbers.
> What is the exact reading?
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> n3knz wrote:
> >
> > Well after a brief break from building I have my VFO up and
working.
> > I am curious I measured about 3 volts peak to peak on the RX VFO,
but
> > the TX VFO seems to be significantly less than that. What should
the
> > output be for the TX VFO? I am building off the original version
from
> > QRPp. It tunes from about 2.085 - 2.173. I had to correct a few
> > mistakes but am happy to have finnished the next stage. Once I
play
> > with the VFO a little bit more I guess it is on the Front End!
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@w...
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
Okay I didn't have it into a load. TX VFO was flat across the tuning
range about .8 volts peak to peak. The RX VFO was not flat and seemed
to vary from 2.0 volts at the low end to 3.1 volts at the high end.
Thanks!
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Wes Clopton wrote:
> The RXVFO readings are good if:
> a. they are made into a load..ie..100ohm
resister
> or DBM
> b. the measurement should flat (EQUAL)
thru
> the tuning range . If not the T5 may
need tuning
> The TXVFO will be less and unleveled .
> Sorry I dont have the numbers handy.
> In my opinion Your OK so keep building..
>
> Wes W3ERU
>
> At 10:36 PM 2/13/02, you wrote:
> >Well after a brief break from building I have my VFO up and
working.
> >I am curious I measured about 3 volts peak to peak on the RX VFO,
but
> >the TX VFO seems to be significantly less than that. What should
the
> >output be for the TX VFO? I am building off the original version
from
> >QRPp. It tunes from about 2.085 - 2.173. I had to correct a few
> >mistakes but am happy to have finnished the next stage. Once I
play
> >with the VFO a little bit more I guess it is on the Front End!
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Thanks, I wasn't sure how different the original one from QRPp was
from the improved one. I had printed some of them in my notes, but
forgot about them. Thanks!
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 03:36 AM 2/14/2002 -0000, you wrote:
> >Well after a brief break from building I have my VFO up and
working.
> >I am curious I measured about 3 volts peak to peak on the RX VFO,
but
> >the TX VFO seems to be significantly less than that. What should
the
> >output be for the TX VFO? I am building off the original version
from
> >QRPp. It tunes from about 2.085 - 2.173. I had to correct a few
> >mistakes but am happy to have finnished the next stage. Once I
play
> >with the VFO a little bit more I guess it is on the Front End!
>
> The signal levels in both the receive and transmitter are shown in
> the series of oscilloscope pictures that I posted to the Yahoo
2n2-40
> web page. The answer to your question is in one of those photos.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
While installing the 4-pole Fixed Filter Kit there are some difference
in component values.....27pf was 47pf
.....180pf was 150pf
270pf was 220pf
1.9uh was 4.7uh
but the schematic doesn't show a change.......which is right?
Wes
|
1649|1649|2002-02-19 11:18:27|Wes Clopton|Until.......oops|After studying the bandpass plots for the Variable and the fixed 4-pole
filter I decided
to install the Fixed filter.
The receiver works great with the VBF and I think its a very good filter,
buttt I see the Fixed filter has much better rejection slope.
Sooooo....Out came all the components for the VBF..(more room now) and
in goes the four xtal set up.......UNTIL I noticed a parts change from the
schematic.
I built according to schematic...how much difference will it make..
WES
|
1650|1649|2002-02-19 11:36:41|Karl F. Larsen|Re: Until.......oops|Hi Wes, I wonder why you need all that sharp a bandpass? I think you will
experiance a hollow sound and some other bad effects with 4 crystals. The
original has 3 crystals and the narrow setting is about 500 Hz which is
plenty narrow without getting the hollow sound. My Yaesu FT-817 has a 500
Hz Collins mechanical filter and it's the best I have ever had. No change
in sound when it's switched in, just a narrow passband.
On Tue, 19 Feb 2002, Wes Clopton wrote:
> After studying the bandpass plots for the Variable and the fixed 4-pole
> filter I decided
> to install the Fixed filter.
> The receiver works great with the VBF and I think its a very good filter,
> buttt I see the Fixed filter has much better rejection slope.
> Sooooo....Out came all the components for the VBF..(more room now) and
> in goes the four xtal set up.......UNTIL I noticed a parts change from the
> schematic.
> I built according to schematic...how much difference will it make..
>
> WES
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
At 11:44 AM 2/19/02, you wrote:
>Hi Wes, I wonder why you need all that sharp a bandpass?
The fixed filter has a bandpass of 485hz at 3db and 1700 hz at 36 db...
The VBF tunes from208 to 740 hz and set at:
485hz at 3db its 3kc at 36 db down.
Since the 2n240 receiver doesn't have the AGC and other built in superhete
circuits its CW tone is pure.
On 40 meter CW I feel the bandpass rejection will help with SSB, PSK, RTTY
and QRO QRM....
>I think you will
>experiance a hollow sound and some other bad effects
Not with this receiver concept...
Wes W3ERu
......snip.........................
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>--
>Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 09:20 PM 2/18/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Jim,
> While installing the 4-pole Fixed Filter Kit there are some difference
>in component values.....27pf was 47pf
> .....180pf was 150pf
> 270pf was 220pf
> 1.9uh was 4.7uh
>
> but the schematic doesn't show a change.......which is right?
>
>Wes
Wes,
I still not home, but I believe the schematic that I posted on Yahoo
of the 4 pole filter is current and correct. The component values
are different from the 3 pole VBW filter. What is shown in the
picture area for a schematic uses some different components for
impedance matching into and outof the filter so that it will look
like the VBW model. The actual 4 pole filter impedance is somewhat
different, lower if I remember correctly, than the 3 pole VBW model.
I designed the circuitry so that it could be easily substituted.
Maybe I don't understand your confusion also. That wouldn't be
the first time! :-)
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....will be back home tomorrow.
OK , Im putting in the Fixed 4pole filter kit i received from you.
The kit has 2 ea 27pf...2 ea 180pf...three 270pf and 2ea 1.8uh chock..
But the latest version schematic doesn't have these values on it.
My question what do i use these components for..and i didn't get the
values on the schematic.......
does that make sense?
Wes
At 06:33 PM 2/19/02, you wrote:
>At 09:20 PM 2/18/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >Jim,
> > While installing the 4-pole Fixed Filter Kit there are some
> difference
> >in component values.....27pf was 47pf
> > .....180pf was 150pf
> > 270pf was 220pf
> > 1.9uh was 4.7uh
> >
> > but the schematic doesn't show a change.......which is right?
> >
> >Wes
>
>Wes,
>I still not home, but I believe the schematic that I posted on Yahoo
>of the 4 pole filter is current and correct. The component values
>are different from the 3 pole VBW filter. What is shown in the
>picture area for a schematic uses some different components for
>impedance matching into and outof the filter so that it will look
>like the VBW model. The actual 4 pole filter impedance is somewhat
>different, lower if I remember correctly, than the 3 pole VBW model.
>I designed the circuitry so that it could be easily substituted.
>
>Maybe I don't understand your confusion also. That wouldn't be
>the first time! :-)
>
>72 and GL,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>PS....will be back home tomorrow.
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Good Evening!
Still finishing up collecting all the parts. I am having
difficulties in finding the trimmer caps. Dan's, DigiKey and Mouser don't
seem to carry the exact values. Am I thinking too hard or simply missing
something?? Would someone mind providing another source for these??
Thanks & 72
.mark
When you sit with a nice girl for two hours,
you think it's only a minute. But when you
sit on a hot stove for a minute, you think
it's two hours. That's relativity.
--Albert Einstein
|
1655|1654|2002-02-20 20:04:59|Wes Clopton|Re: Trimmer Cap Woes|I got mine at < www.jameco.com> and < www.oselectronics.com>
Wes W3ERU
At 07:54 PM 2/20/02, you wrote:
>Good Evening!
>
> Still finishing up collecting all the parts. I am having
>difficulties in finding the trimmer caps. Dan's, DigiKey and Mouser don't
>seem to carry the exact values. Am I thinking too hard or simply missing
>something?? Would someone mind providing another source for these??
>
>Thanks & 72
>
>.mark
>
>When you sit with a nice girl for two hours,
>you think it's only a minute. But when you
>sit on a hot stove for a minute, you think
>it's two hours. That's relativity.
> --Albert Einstein
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I got all mine at Dan's. You really only need the one value that covers the
waterfront. I know they were orange and I think the range was 8-80 pf.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the
experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination
to do so.
--Douglas Adams, Last Chance to See
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schoonover" <schoon@amgt.com>
To: "2n2-40 (E-mail)" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 7:54 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
> Good Evening!
>
> Still finishing up collecting all the parts. I am having
> difficulties in finding the trimmer caps. Dan's, DigiKey and Mouser don't
> seem to carry the exact values. Am I thinking too hard or simply missing
> something?? Would someone mind providing another source for these??
>
> Thanks & 72
>
> .mark
>
> When you sit with a nice girl for two hours,
> you think it's only a minute. But when you
> sit on a hot stove for a minute, you think
> it's two hours. That's relativity.
> --Albert Einstein
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Dan's lists a 2.5-85 that is light orange. Could that be the one??
Thanks & 72
.mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee Mairs [mailto:
lmairs@cox.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 5:33 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
I got all mine at Dan's. You really only need the one value that covers the
waterfront. I know they were orange and I think the range was 8-80 pf.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the
experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination
to do so.
--Douglas Adams, Last Chance to See
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schoonover" <schoon@amgt.com>
To: "2n2-40 (E-mail)" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 7:54 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
> Good Evening!
>
> Still finishing up collecting all the parts. I am having
> difficulties in finding the trimmer caps. Dan's, DigiKey and Mouser don't
> seem to carry the exact values. Am I thinking too hard or simply missing
> something?? Would someone mind providing another source for these??
>
> Thanks & 72
>
> .mark
>
> When you sit with a nice girl for two hours,
> you think it's only a minute. But when you
> sit on a hot stove for a minute, you think
> it's two hours. That's relativity.
> --Albert Einstein
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Those are the ones I used. Get a few extra. The price is right.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
The first lesson of economics is scarcity: There is never enough of anything
to
satisfy all those who want it. The first lesson of politics is to disregard
the first lesson of economics.
--Thomas Sowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schoonover" <schoon@amgt.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 8:49 PM
Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
> Dan's lists a 2.5-85 that is light orange. Could that be the one??
>
> Thanks & 72
>
> .mark
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lee Mairs [mailto:lmairs@cox.rr.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 5:33 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
>
>
> I got all mine at Dan's. You really only need the one value that covers
the
> waterfront. I know they were orange and I think the range was 8-80 pf.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
> Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from
the
> experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination
> to do so.
> --Douglas Adams, Last Chance to See
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Schoonover" <schoon@amgt.com>
> To: "2n2-40 (E-mail)" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 7:54 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
>
>
> > Good Evening!
> >
> > Still finishing up collecting all the parts. I am having
> > difficulties in finding the trimmer caps. Dan's, DigiKey and Mouser
don't
> > seem to carry the exact values. Am I thinking too hard or simply missing
> > something?? Would someone mind providing another source for these??
> >
> > Thanks & 72
> >
> > .mark
> >
> > When you sit with a nice girl for two hours,
> > you think it's only a minute. But when you
> > sit on a hot stove for a minute, you think
> > it's two hours. That's relativity.
> > --Albert Einstein
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
At 11:52 PM 2/19/02 -0500, you wrote:
>OK , Im putting in the Fixed 4pole filter kit i received from you.
> The kit has 2 ea 27pf...2 ea 180pf...three 270pf and 2ea 1.8uh chock..
> But the latest version schematic doesn't have these values on it.
>My question what do i use these components for..and i didn't get the
>values on the schematic.......
>does that make sense?
>
>Wes
Hi Wes,
Yes, all of the above makes sense now that I am home and can see
my notes on the FBW filter. The schematic on the Yahoo isn't
current is the problem. I redesigned that filter slightly, and
that resulted in the component changes. Build it using the parts
that you have, those are correct. The 27 pF caps are used where the
47 pF are shown. Ditto with the 1.8 uH choke and the 4.7 uH. Use the
180 pF where the 150 pF are used, and the 270 pF where the 220 pF
are shown on the current schematic. I'll get the schematic on Yahoo
updated today, so that problem goes away. Sorry for the confusion.
BTW, the parts in the FBW filter kit that I sent you result in a filter
with about a 400 Hz bandwidth, just slightly narrower than the 500 Hz
shown in the schematic.
72 and let me know how you like the FBW filter. You'll notice a
marked difference in the opposite sideband rejection with the added
crystal.
Jim, K8IQY
OK JIM, Sorry about the confusion. Now the next question.......
the output of the FBW filter shows the 1.8uh
choke going directly to the primary of T7-1.
Inductor feeding a transformer looks funny to me...A
Wes
t 09:23 AM 2/21/02, you wrote:
>At 11:52 PM 2/19/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >OK , Im putting in the Fixed 4pole filter kit i received from you.
> > The kit has 2 ea 27pf...2 ea 180pf...three 270pf and 2ea 1.8uh chock..
> > But the latest version schematic doesn't have these values on it.
> >My question what do i use these components for..and i didn't get the
> >values on the schematic.......
> >does that make sense?
> >
> >Wes
>
>Hi Wes,
>
>Yes, all of the above makes sense now that I am home and can see
>my notes on the FBW filter. The schematic on the Yahoo isn't
>current is the problem. I redesigned that filter slightly, and
>that resulted in the component changes. Build it using the parts
>that you have, those are correct. The 27 pF caps are used where the
>47 pF are shown. Ditto with the 1.8 uH choke and the 4.7 uH. Use the
>180 pF where the 150 pF are used, and the 270 pF where the 220 pF
>are shown on the current schematic. I'll get the schematic on Yahoo
>updated today, so that problem goes away. Sorry for the confusion.
>
>BTW, the parts in the FBW filter kit that I sent you result in a filter
>with about a 400 Hz bandwidth, just slightly narrower than the 500 Hz
>shown in the schematic.
>
>72 and let me know how you like the FBW filter. You'll notice a
>marked difference in the opposite sideband rejection with the added
>crystal.
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I may have missed something here. Did Jim suggest installing both the FBW
and the VBW filters in series (adding a stage of amplification)? If not,
what is the benefit to be had by choosing the FBW filter over the VBW?
By chance I bought one of each, so my interest isn't entirely theoretical.
Hate to see parts lying around uninstalled! I'm just about to drill the
front panel for my 2N2-20, and maybe I need room for another mini-switch...
73 de Lee, KM4YY
The universe is full of magical things, patiently waiting for our wits to
grow sharper. -Eden Phillpotts
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Fixed BW Filter
> At 11:52 PM 2/19/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >OK , Im putting in the Fixed 4pole filter kit i received from you.
> > The kit has 2 ea 27pf...2 ea 180pf...three 270pf and 2ea 1.8uh
chock..
> > But the latest version schematic doesn't have these values on it.
> >My question what do i use these components for..and i didn't get the
> >values on the schematic.......
> >does that make sense?
> >
> >Wes
>
> Hi Wes,
>
> Yes, all of the above makes sense now that I am home and can see
> my notes on the FBW filter. The schematic on the Yahoo isn't
> current is the problem. I redesigned that filter slightly, and
> that resulted in the component changes. Build it using the parts
> that you have, those are correct. The 27 pF caps are used where the
> 47 pF are shown. Ditto with the 1.8 uH choke and the 4.7 uH. Use the
> 180 pF where the 150 pF are used, and the 270 pF where the 220 pF
> are shown on the current schematic. I'll get the schematic on Yahoo
> updated today, so that problem goes away. Sorry for the confusion.
>
> BTW, the parts in the FBW filter kit that I sent you result in a filter
> with about a 400 Hz bandwidth, just slightly narrower than the 500 Hz
> shown in the schematic.
>
> 72 and let me know how you like the FBW filter. You'll notice a
> marked difference in the opposite sideband rejection with the added
> crystal.
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hi Lee...Ive been discussing the two filter options with Jim.
He suggested installing both filters and switching between the two. Not
in series but parallel, switching from one to the other.
If you haven't used the audio pre-amp , you may need another stage
of IF gain to make up for the extra loss thru the 4-pole filter. Ill let
you know soon if the audio pre-amp is enough..
I am not sure they will be effective in series, since the VBF
would be tuning back and forth across the bandpass of the FBWF. See Jims plots
on the group web page..
Wes
At 10:33 AM 2/21/02, you wrote:
>I may have missed something here. Did Jim suggest installing both the FBW
>and the VBW filters in series (adding a stage of amplification)? If not,
>what is the benefit to be had by choosing the FBW filter over the VBW?
>
>By chance I bought one of each, so my interest isn't entirely theoretical.
>Hate to see parts lying around uninstalled! I'm just about to drill the
>front panel for my 2N2-20, and maybe I need room for another mini-switch...
>
>73 de Lee, KM4YY
>
>The universe is full of magical things, patiently waiting for our wits to
>grow sharper. -Eden Phillpotts
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
>To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 9:23 AM
>Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Fixed BW Filter
>
>
> > At 11:52 PM 2/19/02 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> > >OK , Im putting in the Fixed 4pole filter kit i received from you.
> > > The kit has 2 ea 27pf...2 ea 180pf...three 270pf and 2ea 1.8uh
>chock..
> > > But the latest version schematic doesn't have these values on it.
> > >My question what do i use these components for..and i didn't get the
> > >values on the schematic.......
> > >does that make sense?
> > >
> > >Wes
> >
> > Hi Wes,
> >
> > Yes, all of the above makes sense now that I am home and can see
> > my notes on the FBW filter. The schematic on the Yahoo isn't
> > current is the problem. I redesigned that filter slightly, and
> > that resulted in the component changes. Build it using the parts
> > that you have, those are correct. The 27 pF caps are used where the
> > 47 pF are shown. Ditto with the 1.8 uH choke and the 4.7 uH. Use the
> > 180 pF where the 150 pF are used, and the 270 pF where the 220 pF
> > are shown on the current schematic. I'll get the schematic on Yahoo
> > updated today, so that problem goes away. Sorry for the confusion.
> >
> > BTW, the parts in the FBW filter kit that I sent you result in a filter
> > with about a 400 Hz bandwidth, just slightly narrower than the 500 Hz
> > shown in the schematic.
> >
> > 72 and let me know how you like the FBW filter. You'll notice a
> > marked difference in the opposite sideband rejection with the added
> > crystal.
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Wes -
I think you are correct; however, if the filters are in parallel, why would
you need another stage of if gain. That is why I am a bit confused. I did
add the stage of AF amplification, but now it seems much noisier (CW signals
no longer magically pop out of the quiet) and at full volume, the
breadboarded radio audio started to feedback/oscillate.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Unquestionably, there is progress. The average American now pays out twice
as
much in taxes as he formerly got in wages.
--H. L. Mencken
|
1664|1661|2002-02-21 12:21:42|Wes Clopton|Re: Filters|At 11:28 AM 2/21/02, you wrote:
>Wes -
>I think you are correct; however, if the filters are in parallel, why would
>you need another stage of if gain. That is why I am a bit confused.
To make up for the loss of the extra xtal stage in the IF .
> I did
>add the stage of AF amplification, but now it seems much noisier (CW signals
>no longer magically pop out of the quiet) and at full volume, the
>breadboarded radio audio started to feedback/oscillate.
Yes, by adding the extra AUDIO gain you may have some noise
(hiss), but I doubt if its the RF noise floor. Play with c3 (I used a
4700pf poly cap) which is the high pass cut off ...Jim talked about it a
while back...be careful of ground loops and bypass the DC source....
Wes
>73 de Lee
>KM4YY
>
>Unquestionably, there is progress. The average American now pays out twice
>as
>much in taxes as he formerly got in wages.
> --H. L. Mencken
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I went shopping at Dan's last night! Got all but a few caps, man he's got a
bunch of fun stuff! The only thing I wish he had plenty of time. I would
like to purchase a few more days of free time!
72 - .mark
--{ Mark E Schoonover KA6WKE
--{ Senior Hacker, IS Gopher, Hardware Fiend
--{ American Geotechnical
--{
http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke --{
ka6wke@amsat.org -----Original Message-----
From: Lee Mairs [mailto:
lmairs@cox.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 7:03 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
Those are the ones I used. Get a few extra. The price is right.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
The first lesson of economics is scarcity: There is never enough of anything
to
satisfy all those who want it. The first lesson of politics is to disregard
the first lesson of economics.
--Thomas Sowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schoonover" <schoon@amgt.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 8:49 PM
Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
> Dan's lists a 2.5-85 that is light orange. Could that be the one??
>
> Thanks & 72
>
> .mark
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lee Mairs [mailto:lmairs@cox.rr.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 5:33 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
>
>
> I got all mine at Dan's. You really only need the one value that covers
the
> waterfront. I know they were orange and I think the range was 8-80 pf.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
> Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from
the
> experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination
> to do so.
> --Douglas Adams, Last Chance to See
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Schoonover" <schoon@amgt.com>
> To: "2n2-40 (E-mail)" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 7:54 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
>
>
> > Good Evening!
> >
> > Still finishing up collecting all the parts. I am having
> > difficulties in finding the trimmer caps. Dan's, DigiKey and Mouser
don't
> > seem to carry the exact values. Am I thinking too hard or simply missing
> > something?? Would someone mind providing another source for these??
> >
> > Thanks & 72
> >
> > .mark
> >
> > When you sit with a nice girl for two hours,
> > you think it's only a minute. But when you
> > sit on a hot stove for a minute, you think
> > it's two hours. That's relativity.
> > --Albert Einstein
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Dan's is a good spot. I just wish he would take Paypal or phone credit
cards so I wouldn't lose a week in shipping.
73 de Lee
km4yy
You plot the growth of the NEA [National Education Association] and the
dropping of SAT scores, and they're inversely proportional. The problems
are unions in the schools. The problem is bureaucracy. I'm one of these
people who believes the best thing we could ever do is go to the full
voucher system.
--Steve Jobs, Wired Magazine, Feb. 96
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schoonover" <schoon@amgt.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 12:49 PM
Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
> I went shopping at Dan's last night! Got all but a few caps, man he's got
a
> bunch of fun stuff! The only thing I wish he had plenty of time. I would
> like to purchase a few more days of free time!
>
> 72 - .mark
>
> --{ Mark E Schoonover KA6WKE
> --{ Senior Hacker, IS Gopher, Hardware Fiend
> --{ American Geotechnical
> --{ http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke
> --{ ka6wke@amsat.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lee Mairs [mailto:lmairs@cox.rr.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 7:03 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
>
>
> Those are the ones I used. Get a few extra. The price is right.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
> The first lesson of economics is scarcity: There is never enough of
anything
> to
> satisfy all those who want it. The first lesson of politics is to
disregard
> the first lesson of economics.
> --Thomas Sowell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Schoonover" <schoon@amgt.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 8:49 PM
> Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
>
>
> > Dan's lists a 2.5-85 that is light orange. Could that be the one??
> >
> > Thanks & 72
> >
> > .mark
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Lee Mairs [mailto:lmairs@cox.rr.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 5:33 PM
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
> >
> >
> > I got all mine at Dan's. You really only need the one value that covers
> the
> > waterfront. I know they were orange and I think the range was 8-80 pf.
> > 73 de Lee
> > KM4YY
> >
> > Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from
> the
> > experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
> disinclination
> > to do so.
> > --Douglas Adams, Last Chance to See
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mark Schoonover" <schoon@amgt.com>
> > To: "2n2-40 (E-mail)" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 7:54 PM
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Trimmer Cap Woes
> >
> >
> > > Good Evening!
> > >
> > > Still finishing up collecting all the parts. I am having
> > > difficulties in finding the trimmer caps. Dan's, DigiKey and Mouser
> don't
> > > seem to carry the exact values. Am I thinking too hard or simply
missing
> > > something?? Would someone mind providing another source for these??
> > >
> > > Thanks & 72
> > >
> > > .mark
> > >
> > > When you sit with a nice girl for two hours,
> > > you think it's only a minute. But when you
> > > sit on a hot stove for a minute, you think
> > > it's two hours. That's relativity.
> > > --Albert Einstein
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Gang,
I've updated the schematic for the fixed bandwidth filter.
It now shows the components that were actually included
in the kits that went out. The updated schematic is in
the photo area, along with the old plots which are still
very close to the response of this filter.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
1668|1648|2002-02-21 15:17:30|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Fixed BW Filter|At 09:37 AM 2/21/02 -0500, Wes wrote:
>OK JIM, Sorry about the confusion.
My fault really Wes. I should have updated that schematic
on the web page when I started shipping the filter kits. Too
many gizmos in the air at one time I guess! :-)
> Now the next question.......
> the output of the FBW filter shows the 1.8uh
> choke going directly to the primary of T7-1.
> Inductor feeding a transformer looks funny to me...A
Well it may look funny, but it is OK. The 1.8uH choke and 27pF
capacitor on each end of the filter is to transform its actual
impedance of 285 ohms down to 270 ohms so that it looks like the
VBW filter. Doing it that way makes it possible to use either filter,
and not have to worry about changing the circuitry on either end. It
made sense to me to do it that way back in August/September, and it
still does.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 10:33 AM 2/21/02 -0500, you wrote:
>I may have missed something here. Did Jim suggest installing both the FBW
>and the VBW filters in series (adding a stage of amplification)?
Yes, I said that a while back.
> If not,
>what is the benefit to be had by choosing the FBW filter over the VBW?
The 4 pole FBW filter by itself has better opposite sideband rejection than
the 3 pole VBW filter. By using them in series, with the ability to
select either one, or both, you can have up to 7 poles of filtering.
The switching could be set up to select either the VBW, the FBW, or
both. I'm guessing the switching could be done with a SPDT center off
switch, unless shorting out the unwanted filter won't work for some
reason, not obvious to me at the moment. The two filters would be
wired in series of course.
>By chance I bought one of each, so my interest isn't entirely theoretical.
>Hate to see parts lying around uninstalled! I'm just about to drill the
>front panel for my 2N2-20, and maybe I need room for another mini-switch...
Something to consider. Everyone, please note that I have not actually
run the two filters in series, so can't make any claims as to how
workable this arrangement is, but intutively, it seems like a piece of
cake. I hope someone tries it out.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 11:00 AM 2/21/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Lee...Ive been discussing the two filter options with Jim.
>He suggested installing both filters and switching between the two. Not
>in series but parallel, switching from one to the other.
No quite. I'm thinking you want to run them in series, that way
you can take advantage of the extra poles being added to the VBW
filter. The fact that the VBW passband moves some probably isn't
a big issue.
> If you haven't used the audio pre-amp , you may need another stage
>of IF gain to make up for the extra loss thru the 4-pole filter.
This is probably a true statement. The added loss of the 4 pole filter
should be made up somewhere, either via audio, or more gain ahead of
or after the filter using another transistor amplifier.
>Ill let
>you know soon if the audio pre-amp is enough..
> I am not sure they will be effective in series, since the VBF
>would be tuning back and forth across the bandpass of the FBWF. See Jims
>plots
>on the group web page..
See comments above......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 11:28 AM 2/21/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Wes -
>I think you are correct; however, if the filters are in parallel, why would
>you need another stage of if gain. That is why I am a bit confused. I did
>add the stage of AF amplification, but now it seems much noisier (CW signals
>no longer magically pop out of the quiet) and at full volume, the
>breadboarded radio audio started to feedback/oscillate.
>73 de Lee
>KM4YY
Lee....that audio amp that you added has a lot of gain, probably too
much. I've gone back and reworked that circuit a bit to produce less
audio gain, and like the sound of the rig much better now that the
audio gain is less. I didn't have the feedback/oscillation, but
it was getting close to doing that.
If it won't be too confusing to the group, I'll post the schematic
of the circuit that is currently in my rig. But I don't want to hear
any whining about changes if I do! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
> But I don't want to hear
> any whining about changes if I do! :-)
Hey! That is what this is all about. I'm glad I don't have mine buttoned
up yet. Before I add the FBW I want to try the mods to the audio preamp.
The FBW will take a bit more engineering - another switch on the front panel
and probably a second deck for the FBW filter. Since I have punch in hand,
I think I will play it safe and add the extra switch now so that I will be
able to add the second filter at a later date.
Glad your back, Jim. Hope you had a good time in FL.
73 de Lee
Im back on the air running the 4-pole fixed filter.. Guess Ill need the RIT
NOW.
I added a neat LED ON THE FRONT PANEL TAPPED OFF XMT SIDE
OF THE TR SWITCH THRU A 1K RESISTOR.. SHOWS WHEN RIG IS KEYED..
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
|
1674|1674|2002-02-22 17:06:07|Karl F. Larsen|Coils|I'm at the point of making the VFO coils. I have the proper toriod
forms but wonder about wire size. I assume 44T/T50-7 means 44 turns of
some size wire on a T50-7 form.
I have no idea what 16TP-8TS/FT37-61 means except that whatever it
is is on a FT37-61 form. Is it 16 turns on the primary and 8 turns on the
secondary? That might be it.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/I used 28 or 30 gage wire for all t he toriods.....
Yep, you figured the code out... 16 turns for the primary(I used 30 gage
here) and 8 turns (i used #28 here so it was easier to id the wires) for
the secondary on a FT37-61 core...
Wes
At 05:13 PM 2/22/02, you wrote:
> I'm at the point of making the VFO coils. I have the proper toriod
>forms but wonder about wire size. I assume 44T/T50-7 means 44 turns of
>some size wire on a T50-7 form.
>
> I have no idea what 16TP-8TS/FT37-61 means except that whatever it
>is is on a FT37-61 form. Is it 16 turns on the primary and 8 turns on the
>secondary? That might be it.
>
>--
>Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Well, I hope it's 28ga wire because that's what I just ordered from Dan's
today. He had a cool doubly balanced wire kit that looks like it will be
handy....
72
--{ Mark E Schoonover KA6WKE
--{ Senior Hacker, IS Gopher, Hardware Fiend
--{ American Geotechnical
--{
http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke --{
ka6wke@amsat.org -----Original Message-----
From: Karl F. Larsen [mailto:
k5di@zianet.com]
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 2:14 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Coils
I'm at the point of making the VFO coils. I have the proper toriod
forms but wonder about wire size. I assume 44T/T50-7 means 44 turns of
some size wire on a T50-7 form.
I have no idea what 16TP-8TS/FT37-61 means except that whatever it
is is on a FT37-61 form. Is it 16 turns on the primary and 8 turns on the
secondary? That might be it.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> I'm at the point of making the VFO coils. I have the proper toriod
> forms but wonder about wire size. I assume 44T/T50-7 means 44 turns of
> some size wire on a T50-7 form.
Make the wire thin enough so you can fit 44 turns around the toroid without
overlapping... and no thinner (although it won't hurt you).
> I have no idea what 16TP-8TS/FT37-61 means except that whatever it
> is is on a FT37-61 form. Is it 16 turns on the primary and 8 turns on the
> secondary? That might be it.
That's correct. Be sure to search the archives of the messages here on the
Yahoo! site, there was quite a bit of discussion of transformer winding.
73,
John, N1QO
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I am making good progress on the Front End. Once I finnish winding
the torroids then I get to pre-test the receiver hooked up to an
existing rig! I am enjoying reading some of the other posts to get
ideas. Thanks!
|
1679|1674|2002-02-22 21:37:53|Karl F. Larsen|Re: Coils|Hi John, I did the 44 turns with #26. I did the 16 turns with #30 and the
8 turns with #26. They look good and a test in a day or so will tell if
they are really good...:-)
On Fri, 22 Feb 2002, John Wagner wrote:
>
>
> > I'm at the point of making the VFO coils. I have the proper toriod
> > forms but wonder about wire size. I assume 44T/T50-7 means 44 turns of
> > some size wire on a T50-7 form.
>
> Make the wire thin enough so you can fit 44 turns around the toroid without
> overlapping... and no thinner (although it won't hurt you).
>
> > I have no idea what 16TP-8TS/FT37-61 means except that whatever it
> > is is on a FT37-61 form. Is it 16 turns on the primary and 8 turns on the
> > secondary? That might be it.
>
> That's correct. Be sure to search the archives of the messages here on the
> Yahoo! site, there was quite a bit of discussion of transformer winding.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> >
> > --
> > Yours Truly,
> >
> > - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> > http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
My VFO tunes from 2085 to 2186 and Im using a 20k 10 turn pot.
Im using a dail turn indicator which divides the pots range by ten equal
divisions. But for the life of me I cant get a linear freq range.
Has anyone else found the right combinion yet.
Wes
|
1681|1680|2002-02-24 02:08:30|Dennis Ponsness|Re: VFO tuning|Wes and Group,
I have found the same thing. I think that most Varactor tuned rigs will
exhibit a "non-linearity" when tuning. I have noticed it in my SW -xx+ rigs
as well. You can do one of the following:
1. Have some type of "readout" for the rig, i.e. a digital display or a CW
annunciator like the "Freq-Mite".
2. Using your freq counter, make up a "tuning grid" and plot the frequency
curve on a piece of graph paper. So that when you dial in 100 you know what
freq you are on.
I will probably do the second one and then laminate it and attach it to the
front panel of my rig (I have room for it
) after I do a bit more work
on it (tweaking it up some more)
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.You are probably right..but Im looking at the varactor tuning curves , i may
work something out..
I don't really need 100kc of the band, 70 kc at the most. So Im working on
sliding up the curve a little...Im not to worried about it since I've got a
kenwood
and counter to check it with...
Im having fun...playing..
Wes
At 02:08 AM 2/24/02, you wrote:
>Wes and Group,
> I have found the same thing. I think that most Varactor tuned rigs will
>exhibit a "non-linearity" when tuning. I have noticed it in my SW -xx+ rigs
>as well. You can do one of the following:
>
>1. Have some type of "readout" for the rig, i.e. a digital display or a CW
>annunciator like the "Freq-Mite".
>
>2. Using your freq counter, make up a "tuning grid" and plot the frequency
>curve on a piece of graph paper. So that when you dial in 100 you know what
>freq you are on.
>
>I will probably do the second one and then laminate it and attach it to the
>front panel of my rig (I have room for it ) after I do a bit more work
>on it (tweaking it up some more)
>
>72
>
>Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 12:40 AM 2/24/02 -0500, you wrote:
>My VFO tunes from 2085 to 2186 and Im using a 20k 10 turn pot.
>Im using a dail turn indicator which divides the pots range by ten equal
>divisions. But for the life of me I cant get a linear freq range.
>
>Has anyone else found the right combinion yet.
>
>Wes
You can't get it perfect Wes, with the non linear characteristics
of the varicap. At best, you can make one intermediate point be
correct, usually 7040 or 7050, and take the rest of the dial where
it falls. That's assuming that you have the correct shunt resistor
across the correct two terminals of the pot. Some experimenting here
is appropriate.
The only way that I know to improve the linearity is to drive the
pot with a constant current source of the correct value. Then the
linearity can be improved substantially, but at the cost of added
circuit complexity.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
OK JIM,
WHERE IS THE NEW AF PREAMP CIRCUIT YOU HINTED
ABOUT... !! We are waiting to check it out...
Wes
|
1685|1684|2002-02-25 09:13:37|John Wagner|Re: AF PREAMP||
1686|1684|2002-02-25 09:34:47|Wes Clopton|Re: AF PREAMP||
1687|1684|2002-02-25 09:41:51|John Wagner|Re: AF PREAMP|Ah right, sorry Wes! Forgot he modified it. I've got the "other one" in my
radio - works well.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: Wes Clopton <w3eru@drix.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 09:34:11 -0500
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] AF PREAMP
>
> JOHN......JIM WAS TO PUT ANOTHER ON THE GROUP PAGE
>
>
> WES
>
>
>
>
> t 09:13 AM 2/25/02, you wrote:
>> It was on the Yahoo site when I downloaded it. Haven't looked in a while,
>> but it should still be there.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> John, N1QO
>>
>>> From: Wes Clopton <w3eru@drix.net>
>>> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>>> Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 05:59:45 -0500
>>> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>>> Subject: [2n2-40] AF PREAMP
>>>
>>> OK JIM,
>>> WHERE IS THE NEW AF PREAMP CIRCUIT YOU HINTED
>>>
>>> ABOUT... !! We are waiting to check it out...
>>>
>>> Wes
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
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> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Gang,
There is another way that I have found to work rather well with a turns
counter setup. Replace the 15K resistor across the sweep to high end of
the 20K tuning pot with a 100K trim pot. Align to top and bottom of the
tuning range as you would normally do with trim caps in the VFO. Then
tune the 100K trim pot to align at 7.040 (or wherever you like to hang
out) and you wont be off by more than 1 kHz anywhere in the band.
Of course, I added a Freq-Mite anyway 'cause I like clever gadgets.
72 es GL,
Arth W6AGS 2N2/40 #16
|
1689|90|2002-02-25 13:44:45|2n2-40@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to 2n2-40 ||
1690|1684|2002-02-25 13:57:00|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: AF PREAMP|At 05:59 AM 2/25/02 -0500, you wrote:
>OK JIM,
> WHERE IS THE NEW AF PREAMP CIRCUIT YOU HINTED
>
>ABOUT... !! We are waiting to check it out...
>
>Wes
Wes,
I just uploaded that puppy. Sorry for the delay; it was one of
those post-vacation items that slipped my mind, or what I have left
of one! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....there was an error also in the first amplifiers specifications.
The schematic shows ~20 dBv gain, but the amplifier was really running
at ~40 dBv gain, that's why it sounded so loud. This version is
tamed down, and actually runs ~20 dBv of gain, like I intended.
Boy that worked like a champ, thanks for the tip..
My VFO tunes from 2085.3 to 2186 and within 11kc thru the dial of a ten
turn indicator...
thanks
Wes
At 12:30 PM 2/25/02, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>There is another way that I have found to work rather well with a turns
>counter setup. Replace the 15K resistor across the sweep to high end of
>the 20K tuning pot with a 100K trim pot. Align to top and bottom of the
>tuning range as you would normally do with trim caps in the VFO. Then
>tune the 100K trim pot to align at 7.040 (or wherever you like to hang
>out) and you wont be off by more than 1 kHz anywhere in the band.
>
>Of course, I added a Freq-Mite anyway 'cause I like clever gadgets.
>
>72 es GL,
>Arth W6AGS 2N2/40 #16
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Is "11kc" a typo??
>Boy that worked like a champ, thanks for the tip..
> My VFO tunes from 2085.3 to 2186 and within 11kc thru the dial of
> a ten turn indicator...
> thanks
>Wes
At 10:46 PM 2/25/02, you wrote:
>Is "11kc" a typo??
OOPs..1 (one) kc
> >Boy that worked like a champ, thanks for the tip..
>
> > My VFO tunes from 2085.3 to 2186 and within 1kc thru the dial of
> > a ten turn indicator...
>
> > thanks
> >Wes
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Ive been studding the transmit wave form looking for a "funny sound"
on my "Dits"..
I see a rise and decay on my RF signal that looks normal.
SOOOOO....I looked at the audio at the speaker. There is a postive spike
at the begining and a negative one at the end of each dit and dah.
It is the 2n77000 kkeying off and on I think. THUMP THUMP
right Jim
WES
|
1695|1694|2002-02-26 18:13:17|Wes Clopton|Re: Thump|Sorry about the confusing post, It should make more sense after I correct it..
At 04:42 PM 2/26/02, you wrote:
>Ive been studying the transmit wave form looking for a "funny sound"
>on my "Dits"..that another station had reported. But I didnt find anything..
>I see a rise and decay on my RF signal that looks normal.
>
>SOOOOO....
While looking around I happen to notice a positive spike at the
beginning and a negative one at the end of each dit and dah sent..
> Is this the 2n7000 keying off and on . THUMP THUMP
>
>Right Jim:
Wes
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Wes,
A number of builders, including myself, experienced the same problem
with the original 2N7000 circuit. Since then, Jim, has suggested
replacing the 1N4148 with some other diode although I am not at home
and couldn't tell you what that was. There was a definite improvement
with the new diode. Maybe Jim or someone else can tell you before I
can get that info for you. Also, I found that putting a 22uF
electrolytic
from the keyed Tx 12V to ground really helped in smoothing out the key
transitions.
Now Jim has posted an improved mute circuit using a J176 FET but since
my rig is no longer broke I don't feel as though I need to fix it.
Hope this helps.
72,
Arth W6AGS 2N2/40 #16
>While looking around I happen to notice a positive spike at the
>beginning and a negative one at the end of each dit and dah sent..
I've not noticed this problem with my radio which is just about the same as
your. I have not made the changes to the audio circuit. The potential
oscillation disappeared just as I was set to plug in the iron.
How do them electrons know?
73 de Lee
km4yy
Seeing is deceiving. It's eating that's believing.
--James Thurber
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arth Silvers" <w6ags@arrl.net>
To: "2N2/40 Builders" <2N2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: "Arth Silvers" <w6ags@arrl.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 7:46 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Thump
> Wes,
>
> A number of builders, including myself, experienced the same problem
> with the original 2N7000 circuit. Since then, Jim, has suggested
> replacing the 1N4148 with some other diode although I am not at home
> and couldn't tell you what that was. There was a definite improvement
> with the new diode. Maybe Jim or someone else can tell you before I
> can get that info for you. Also, I found that putting a 22uF
> electrolytic
> from the keyed Tx 12V to ground really helped in smoothing out the key
> transitions.
>
> Now Jim has posted an improved mute circuit using a J176 FET but since
> my rig is no longer broke I don't feel as though I need to fix it.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> 72,
> Arth W6AGS 2N2/40 #16
>
> >While looking around I happen to notice a positive spike at the
> >beginning and a negative one at the end of each dit and dah sent..
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
The replacement for the 1N4148 in the mute circuit is a 1N5817 Schottky
rectifier. 1N5818 and 1N5859 will work as well. Search the archive for
1N5817 and you will be able to read Jims reasoning and original
suggestion.
There are schools of thought about the 22uF but it seems to improve
things considerably.
72,
Arth W6AGS 2N2/40 #16
|
1699|1694|2002-02-27 12:16:38|Arth Silvers|Re: Thump|Oops! That's 1N5819 not 1N5859 8~}
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
1700|1694|2002-02-27 12:26:43|Wes Clopton|Re: Thump|Ok Ill give those a try...thanks for the suggestion.
Wes
At 11:35 AM 2/27/02, you wrote:
>Oops! That's 1N5819 not 1N5859 8~}
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Lee,
I don't know which version of the IF post amp you are using but the
original needed to be toned down as it was self oscillating. That
definitely improved the side-tone but reduced overall gain. The original
AF preamp took care of that problem with 40 dB gain. The additional 40
dB caused microphonics/hum with my rig/power-supply combo so, after
adding a voltage regulator to the rig, I bought an new small power
supply. No more microphonics. The latest AF preamp circuit is toned down
to 20 dB and would probably be more stable. The additional audio is
really nice to have.
72,
Arth W6AGS 2N2/40 #16
>I've not noticed this problem with my
>radio which is just about the same as
>your. I have not made the changes to
>the audio circuit. The potential
>oscillation disappeared just as I was
>set to plug in the iron.
>
>How do them electrons know?
>
>73 de Lee
>km4yy
At 04:42 PM 2/26/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Ive been studding the transmit wave form looking for a "funny sound"
>on my "Dits"..
>I see a rise and decay on my RF signal that looks normal.
>
>SOOOOO....I looked at the audio at the speaker. There is a postive spike
>at the begining and a negative one at the end of each dit and dah.
> It is the 2n77000 kkeying off and on I think. THUMP THUMP
>
>right Jim
Well, actually not the 2N7000 Wes, but the circuitry ahead of that
part causes the transients, along with loading of the power supply
during transmit. If one gets the timing correct, so that the 2N7000
is "off" before the transmitter comes on the air, and stays off until
the transmitter is really done transmitting, then the audio thumps are
minimized. Adding the 22uF capacitor to the Tx line near where the
first stages of the transmitter are sure seems to help in most cases.
The J176 mute circuit, with the modified Rx/Tx driver does a better
job than the 2N7000 by a moderate amount.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Using a 20k 10 turn pot with a dial turn indicator my final
results were:
Dial Received VFO RXLO
0.00 7000.00 2085.303- 4914.700
1.0 7009.34 2094.711- 4914.700
2.0 7018.82 2103.997- 4914.700
3.0 7028.63 2113.693- 4914.700
4.0 7039.07 2124.315- 4914.700
5.0 7049.92 2135.060- 4914.700
6.0 7060.60 2145.857- 4914.700
7.0 7071.23 2156.361- 4914.700
8.0 7081.54 2166.702- 4914.700
9.0 7091.48 2176.552- 4914.700
10.0 7101.27 2186.378- 4914.700
TXLO 4915.377
SIDETONE 698 HZ
How about that Jim ?
Wes
|
1704|1694|2002-02-27 18:49:50|Wes Clopton|Re: Thump|Ok Arth, I put the 22uf cap in and backed off on the drive pot PT4
and that cleaned up RF out..With the new version audio pre-amp
the sidetone isn't bad now..
Ive had so much fun building this, I guess I better put some LOG
time on it...
See you on 40 CW...
Wes
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 06:11 PM 2/27/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Using a 20k 10 turn pot with a dial turn indicator my final
>results were:
>
>Dial Received VFO RXLO
>0.00 7000.00 2085.303- 4914.700
>1.0 7009.34 2094.711- 4914.700
>2.0 7018.82 2103.997- 4914.700
>3.0 7028.63 2113.693- 4914.700
>4.0 7039.07 2124.315- 4914.700
>5.0 7049.92 2135.060- 4914.700
>6.0 7060.60 2145.857- 4914.700
>7.0 7071.23 2156.361- 4914.700
>8.0 7081.54 2166.702- 4914.700
>9.0 7091.48 2176.552- 4914.700
>10.0 7101.27 2186.378- 4914.700
>
>TXLO 4915.377
>
>SIDETONE 698 HZ
>
>
>How about that Jim ?
>
>Wes
Looks very good Wes. Time to get on the air and operate like
mad!! :-)
72 and thank for the info,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I had microphonics in my rig also. Didn't know the name for it until
I brought it to Jim's shack. Just called it that acting like a
microphone and amplifying the metallic sounds thingy. Anyway, I
changed two of the trimmers (TC3 and TC5) with other models from
Dan's small parts and it has alleviated the problem. The two I had
in there were from Jameco. So if you have this problem you might
want to check your trimmers. I found that when I pushed down on the
middle of the board (it was mounted at the four corners with
spacers) my VFO freq would change by 10KHz.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|
1707|1703|2002-02-27 22:19:30|Wes Clopton|Re: Freq Calibration|Jim, operating takes all the fun out of building......:>)
WES
At 10:06 PM 2/27/02, you wrote:
>At 06:11 PM 2/27/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Using a 20k 10 turn pot with a dial turn indicator my final
> >results were:
> >
> >Dial Received VFO RXLO
> >0.00 7000.00 2085.303- 4914.700
> >1.0 7009.34 2094.711- 4914.700
> >2.0 7018.82 2103.997- 4914.700
> >3.0 7028.63 2113.693- 4914.700
> >4.0 7039.07 2124.315- 4914.700
> >5.0 7049.92 2135.060- 4914.700
> >6.0 7060.60 2145.857- 4914.700
> >7.0 7071.23 2156.361- 4914.700
> >8.0 7081.54 2166.702- 4914.700
> >9.0 7091.48 2176.552- 4914.700
> >10.0 7101.27 2186.378- 4914.700
> >
> >TXLO 4915.377
> >
> >SIDETONE 698 HZ
> >
> >
> >How about that Jim ?
> >
> >Wes
>
>Looks very good Wes. Time to get on the air and operate like
>mad!! :-)
>
>72 and thank for the info,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Speaking of which 2n2-40 gang; I'm banging the CQ bell on 7.041 or so with
my 2n2-40 right now and not getting much action.
Anyone awake and on the air out there?
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 22:06:42 -0500
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Freq Calibration
>
> At 06:11 PM 2/27/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
>> Using a 20k 10 turn pot with a dial turn indicator my final
>> results were:
>>
>> Dial Received VFO RXLO
>> 0.00 7000.00 2085.303- 4914.700
>> 1.0 7009.34 2094.711- 4914.700
>> 2.0 7018.82 2103.997- 4914.700
>> 3.0 7028.63 2113.693- 4914.700
>> 4.0 7039.07 2124.315- 4914.700
>> 5.0 7049.92 2135.060- 4914.700
>> 6.0 7060.60 2145.857- 4914.700
>> 7.0 7071.23 2156.361- 4914.700
>> 8.0 7081.54 2166.702- 4914.700
>> 9.0 7091.48 2176.552- 4914.700
>> 10.0 7101.27 2186.378- 4914.700
>>
>> TXLO 4915.377
>>
>> SIDETONE 698 HZ
>>
>>
>> How about that Jim ?
>>
>> Wes
>
> Looks very good Wes. Time to get on the air and operate like
> mad!! :-)
>
> 72 and thank for the info,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
John:
Banged away for 3 minutes.. I heard you!!!!! Its 0339Z, where ya at?!?!?!
Tom
KC0GXX
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 3:35 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Freq Calibration
> Speaking of which 2n2-40 gang; I'm banging the CQ bell on 7.041 or so with
> my 2n2-40 right now and not getting much action.
>
> Anyone awake and on the air out there?
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 22:06:42 -0500
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Freq Calibration
> >
> > At 06:11 PM 2/27/02 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> >> Using a 20k 10 turn pot with a dial turn indicator my final
> >> results were:
> >>
> >> Dial Received VFO RXLO
> >> 0.00 7000.00 2085.303- 4914.700
> >> 1.0 7009.34 2094.711- 4914.700
> >> 2.0 7018.82 2103.997- 4914.700
> >> 3.0 7028.63 2113.693- 4914.700
> >> 4.0 7039.07 2124.315- 4914.700
> >> 5.0 7049.92 2135.060- 4914.700
> >> 6.0 7060.60 2145.857- 4914.700
> >> 7.0 7071.23 2156.361- 4914.700
> >> 8.0 7081.54 2166.702- 4914.700
> >> 9.0 7091.48 2176.552- 4914.700
> >> 10.0 7101.27 2186.378- 4914.700
> >>
> >> TXLO 4915.377
> >>
> >> SIDETONE 698 HZ
> >>
> >>
> >> How about that Jim ?
> >>
> >> Wes
> >
> > Looks very good Wes. Time to get on the air and operate like
> > mad!! :-)
> >
> > 72 and thank for the info,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I'm on 7.041, or so says my ic-746 right next to the 2n2-40 -- still trying
(0349z now).
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "TC Dufresne" <tdufresne@neb.rr.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 03:37:52 -0000
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Freq Calibration
>
> John:
> Banged away for 3 minutes.. I heard you!!!!! Its 0339Z, where ya at?!?!?!
> Tom
> KC0GXX
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 3:35 AM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Freq Calibration
>
>
>> Speaking of which 2n2-40 gang; I'm banging the CQ bell on 7.041 or so with
>> my 2n2-40 right now and not getting much action.
>>
>> Anyone awake and on the air out there?
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> John, N1QO
>>
>>> From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
>>> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>>> Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 22:06:42 -0500
>>> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>>> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Freq Calibration
>>>
>>> At 06:11 PM 2/27/02 -0500, you wrote:
>>>
>>>> Using a 20k 10 turn pot with a dial turn indicator my final
>>>> results were:
>>>>
>>>> Dial Received VFO RXLO
>>>> 0.00 7000.00 2085.303- 4914.700
>>>> 1.0 7009.34 2094.711- 4914.700
>>>> 2.0 7018.82 2103.997- 4914.700
>>>> 3.0 7028.63 2113.693- 4914.700
>>>> 4.0 7039.07 2124.315- 4914.700
>>>> 5.0 7049.92 2135.060- 4914.700
>>>> 6.0 7060.60 2145.857- 4914.700
>>>> 7.0 7071.23 2156.361- 4914.700
>>>> 8.0 7081.54 2166.702- 4914.700
>>>> 9.0 7091.48 2176.552- 4914.700
>>>> 10.0 7101.27 2186.378- 4914.700
>>>>
>>>> TXLO 4915.377
>>>>
>>>> SIDETONE 698 HZ
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> How about that Jim ?
>>>>
>>>> Wes
>>>
>>> Looks very good Wes. Time to get on the air and operate like
>>> mad!! :-)
>>>
>>> 72 and thank for the info,
>>>
>>> Jim, K8IQY
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
2N240 TO 2N240 good show john......heard u 559 for a while
tks for contsact.......great little radio isnt it.......makes my 850 sad...
w3eru
|
1713|1703|2002-02-27 23:04:54|John Wagner|Re: Freq Calibration||
1714|1714|2002-03-01 17:43:32|Lee Mairs|RIT Re-tuning|I added the RIT circuit to my 2N2-40 this afternoon, but when I set out to
re-tune the VFO, I couldn't find the instructions anywhere. The book
doesn't say what I remember it saying when I was building the VFO section.
Specifically, there are the two variable capacitors and I can't remember the
interaction.
Also, wasn't there a posting about the effect the RIT addition has on the
VFO? I found one post suggesting that it might be necessary to remove a
turn or two off the big inductor, but I hope not. I glue-gunned mine to the
board to minimize movement!
I made a U-shaped top from scrap plastic as a top to use for Show n'Tell.
Worked out really well for less than a buck of plastic and two bucks for a
life time supply of the magic plexiglass glue. One caution for others - Use
a bare minimum amount of glue, and put it on carefully with stick. The
stuff eats up the clear plastic in a NY minute!
73 de Lee
km4yy
|
1715|1714|2002-03-01 19:43:30|Howard Kraus|Re: RIT Re-tuning|Yes, remove 2 turns from the VFO toroid to bring
frequency coverage back to normal with the RIT. Sorry
to break the bad news!
The 2 variable caps you speak of are likely the xmit
and rcv mixer caps. They will be calibrated in the
usual manner after you remove the turns from the VFO
toroid. Then the planets will align, the fun will
begin, you will be one with the 2N2 mojo.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- Lee Mairs <
lmairs@cox.rr.com> wrote:
> I added the RIT circuit to my 2N2-40 this afternoon,
> but when I set out to
> re-tune the VFO, I couldn't find the instructions
> anywhere. The book
> doesn't say what I remember it saying when I was
> building the VFO section.
> Specifically, there are the two variable capacitors
> and I can't remember the
> interaction.
>
> Also, wasn't there a posting about the effect the
> RIT addition has on the
> VFO? I found one post suggesting that it might be
> necessary to remove a
> turn or two off the big inductor, but I hope not. I
> glue-gunned mine to the
> board to minimize movement!
>
> I made a U-shaped top from scrap plastic as a top to
> use for Show n'Tell.
> Worked out really well for less than a buck of
> plastic and two bucks for a
> life time supply of the magic plexiglass glue. One
> caution for others - Use
> a bare minimum amount of glue, and put it on
> carefully with stick. The
> stuff eats up the clear plastic in a NY minute!
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball
http://sports.yahoo.comI found the message you quote; however, I want to know the difference
between the two trimmer capacitors in the VFO. I didn't have to remove any
turns from the inductor, and I have it tuning from 7.000 to 7.120, but it
isn't very linear.
73 de Lee
km4yy
Taxes are not levied for the benefit of the taxed.
--Robert Heinlein
----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard Kraus" <kaytwoyoudee@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] RIT Re-tuning
> Yes, remove 2 turns from the VFO toroid to bring
> frequency coverage back to normal with the RIT. Sorry
> to break the bad news!
>
> The 2 variable caps you speak of are likely the xmit
> and rcv mixer caps. They will be calibrated in the
> usual manner after you remove the turns from the VFO
> toroid. Then the planets will align, the fun will
> begin, you will be one with the 2N2 mojo.
>
> 72
>
> Howard Kraus, K2UD
> --- Lee Mairs <lmairs@cox.rr.com> wrote:
> > I added the RIT circuit to my 2N2-40 this afternoon,
> > but when I set out to
> > re-tune the VFO, I couldn't find the instructions
> > anywhere. The book
> > doesn't say what I remember it saying when I was
> > building the VFO section.
> > Specifically, there are the two variable capacitors
> > and I can't remember the
> > interaction.
> >
> > Also, wasn't there a posting about the effect the
> > RIT addition has on the
> > VFO? I found one post suggesting that it might be
> > necessary to remove a
> > turn or two off the big inductor, but I hope not. I
> > glue-gunned mine to the
> > board to minimize movement!
> >
> > I made a U-shaped top from scrap plastic as a top to
> > use for Show n'Tell.
> > Worked out really well for less than a buck of
> > plastic and two bucks for a
> > life time supply of the magic plexiglass glue. One
> > caution for others - Use
> > a bare minimum amount of glue, and put it on
> > carefully with stick. The
> > stuff eats up the clear plastic in a NY minute!
> > 73 de Lee
> > km4yy
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball
> http://sports.yahoo.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Lee,
I've tried to email you twice, they keep bouncing.
Wondering if the parts I sent to you made it yet.
73,
John, N1QO
|
1718|1718|2002-03-02 14:59:26|John Wagner|off to see Dad|Well gang, I never could quite get all the bugs worked out of my receiver.
It would hear strong signals, but not weaker ones. At one point, it worked
fine, but with all my mucking with it I messed something up and couldn't
quite get a handle on what.
After giving it much thought, I've asked Jim to take a look at it and he
agreed. So my baby is off into the post to see Dad. I thought long and hard
about it and decided that if Jim puts his hands on it, it's gonna have some
extra mojo!
Thanks to Jim for looking at the radio - hope it's something simple.
73,
John, N1QO
|
1719|1718|2002-03-02 15:20:31|Lee Mairs|Re: off to see Dad|If Jim puts extra mojo in your radio, he better stand by for a veritable
flood of mail!
73 de Lee
km4yy
If you don't know what to do when you see a "C:\", then
you probably shouldn't have a computer.
-- Lee Mairs (many, many times in the early '90s)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 2:59 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] off to see Dad
> Well gang, I never could quite get all the bugs worked out of my receiver.
> It would hear strong signals, but not weaker ones. At one point, it worked
> fine, but with all my mucking with it I messed something up and couldn't
> quite get a handle on what.
>
> After giving it much thought, I've asked Jim to take a look at it and he
> agreed. So my baby is off into the post to see Dad. I thought long and
hard
> about it and decided that if Jim puts his hands on it, it's gonna have
some
> extra mojo!
>
> Thanks to Jim for looking at the radio - hope it's something simple.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hehehehhe...
I have an idea...can we get some mojo for download?
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
HEATH HW-9 @ 2W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 3:28 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] off to see Dad
> If Jim puts extra mojo in your radio, he better stand by for a
veritable
> flood of mail!
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
> If you don't know what to do when you see a "C:\", then
> you probably shouldn't have a computer.
> -- Lee Mairs (many, many times in the early '90s)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 2:59 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] off to see Dad
>
>
> > Well gang, I never could quite get all the bugs worked out of my
receiver.
> > It would hear strong signals, but not weaker ones. At one point,
it worked
> > fine, but with all my mucking with it I messed something up and
couldn't
> > quite get a handle on what.
> >
> > After giving it much thought, I've asked Jim to take a look at it
and he
> > agreed. So my baby is off into the post to see Dad. I thought long
and
> hard
> > about it and decided that if Jim puts his hands on it, it's gonna
have
> some
> > extra mojo!
> >
> > Thanks to Jim for looking at the radio - hope it's something
simple.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > John, N1QO
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> FREE COLLEGE MONEY
> CLICK HERE to search
> 600,000 scholarships!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/iZp8OC/4m7CAA/ySSFAA/ELTolB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
-~->
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
Hi gang,
I come across scrap and surplus deals from time to time and I was
wondering if anyone has a little circuit I could use to compare
2N2222's that I find out there. I currently have three different
brands in my junk box (junk garage but that's another story).
I was looking for a test circuit that uses a transistor socket for
TO92 or TO18 (metal) packages.
73
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
HEATH HW-9 @ 2W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
|
1722|1714|2002-03-02 18:07:22|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: RIT Re-tuning|At 05:51 PM 3/1/02 -0500, Lee wrote:
>I added the RIT circuit to my 2N2-40 this afternoon, but when I set out to
>re-tune the VFO, I couldn't find the instructions anywhere. The book
>doesn't say what I remember it saying when I was building the VFO section.
>Specifically, there are the two variable capacitors and I can't remember the
>interaction.
In the more recent design, TC4 sets the low end of the VFO, and
TC3 sets the span of the VFO. Normally, you would first adjust
TC3 to get the desired span, then adjust TC4 to set the lower end
of the span to the desired frequency. When you add the RIT, the
lower end of the band goes lower, so the TC4 trimmer must be re-adjusted
to less capacity to move the lower end back up. If you run out of
capacitance, i.e. TC4 is at minimum capacity, then one or two turns
have to be removed from L1 to get the bottom of the band set when
you want it.
>Also, wasn't there a posting about the effect the RIT addition has on the
>VFO? I found one post suggesting that it might be necessary to remove a
>turn or two off the big inductor, but I hope not. I glue-gunned mine to the
>board to minimize movement!
Sometimes you do, and sometimes you don't have to remove a turn, depending
on the range of TC4. Maybe you'll get lucky! I've never changed the
turns on L1 on either of my rigs.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Jim. I didn't have to remove any turns. BTW, I don't have the
problem with the sidetone either. I still haven't reduced the gain on the
audio pre-amp - that is the project for this afternoon. I definitely need
to do it, because the rig is definitely microphonic. One that is done, I
will play around with adding the FBW to go with the VBW. Then I need to
calculate how many 2N2222's I need to get full 2KW out for contests (;^o)!
One problem I did find with the RIT. As I mentioned earlier I fabricated a
special cover out of Plexiglas, so that I can stare in at all the electrons
running around while I use the rig or take it to Show n'Tell. The RIT
circuit mounted at the pot is close enough to the top of the rig that my
hand can de-tune the circuit by waving it just above the plexi - or tune the
circuit depending on your point of view.
Still the best thing I've done in ham radio. A friend with an ICOM 781
remarked at how quiet the radio is. Definitely having fun while awaiting a
SSB design.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
There's a fine line between fishing and standing on the shore looking like
an
idiot.
--Steven Wright
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 6:06 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] RIT Re-tuning
> At 05:51 PM 3/1/02 -0500, Lee wrote:
>
> >I added the RIT circuit to my 2N2-40 this afternoon, but when I set out
to
> >re-tune the VFO, I couldn't find the instructions anywhere. The book
> >doesn't say what I remember it saying when I was building the VFO
section.
> >Specifically, there are the two variable capacitors and I can't remember
the
> >interaction.
>
> In the more recent design, TC4 sets the low end of the VFO, and
> TC3 sets the span of the VFO. Normally, you would first adjust
> TC3 to get the desired span, then adjust TC4 to set the lower end
> of the span to the desired frequency. When you add the RIT, the
> lower end of the band goes lower, so the TC4 trimmer must be re-adjusted
> to less capacity to move the lower end back up. If you run out of
> capacitance, i.e. TC4 is at minimum capacity, then one or two turns
> have to be removed from L1 to get the bottom of the band set when
> you want it.
>
>
> >Also, wasn't there a posting about the effect the RIT addition has on the
> >VFO? I found one post suggesting that it might be necessary to remove a
> >turn or two off the big inductor, but I hope not. I glue-gunned mine to
the
> >board to minimize movement!
>
> Sometimes you do, and sometimes you don't have to remove a turn, depending
> on the range of TC4. Maybe you'll get lucky! I've never changed the
> turns on L1 on either of my rigs.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Anyone want to try a SMT 2N2?
If you're interested, I have some SMT MMBT2222's I would contribute
for the sake of experimentation.
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
HEATH HW-9 @ 2W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
|
1725|1724|2002-03-02 21:48:38|John Wagner|Re: SMT|I was gonna use the the npn smd's I bought from you for my next one... but I
wouldn't mind using the real deal if you have enough of 'em.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Brian Murrey" <brian@iquest.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 20:48:45 -0500
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [2n2-40] SMT
>
> Anyone want to try a SMT 2N2?
>
> If you're interested, I have some SMT MMBT2222's I would contribute
> for the sake of experimentation.
>
>
> ========================================
> KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
> QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
> FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
> HEATH HW-9 @ 2W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
> INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
> SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
> ========================================
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 08:48 PM 3/2/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Anyone want to try a SMT 2N2?
>
>If you're interested, I have some SMT MMBT2222's I would contribute
>for the sake of experimentation.
Yes! How about after Atlanticon, Arkiecon, and Dayton, we dust
off the 2N2/30 design, as far as it has been done, and build a few
of those on 30 meters using mostly surface mount parts.
As long as the effort doesn't get out of hand, and start impinging
on my spring/summer cycling, I'd be happy to assist. Then there is
the 2 band SSB/CW rig to consider too! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I'm ready to try it also. I'll have to get my glasses changed, but it would
be fun...
72 de Lee, KM4YY
Government is beating into submission, imprisoning, and killing...The
authority of man-made law is entirely due to weapons of the constables who
enforce obedience to its provisions.
--Ludwig von Mises
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
> At 08:48 PM 3/2/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Anyone want to try a SMT 2N2?
> >
> >If you're interested, I have some SMT MMBT2222's I would contribute
> >for the sake of experimentation.
>
> Yes! How about after Atlanticon, Arkiecon, and Dayton, we dust
> off the 2N2/30 design, as far as it has been done, and build a few
> of those on 30 meters using mostly surface mount parts.
>
> As long as the effort doesn't get out of hand, and start impinging
> on my spring/summer cycling, I'd be happy to assist. Then there is
> the 2 band SSB/CW rig to consider too! :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
If you haven't done so, take look at my web page about "SMP" - surface mount
pads. I used one to mount the extra parts on a TiCK keyer and it works
smooth as silk!
http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/smp/ 73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 22:49:11 -0500
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
>
> I'm ready to try it also. I'll have to get my glasses changed, but it would
> be fun...
> 72 de Lee, KM4YY
>
> Government is beating into submission, imprisoning, and killing...The
> authority of man-made law is entirely due to weapons of the constables who
> enforce obedience to its provisions.
> --Ludwig von Mises
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 10:32 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
>
>
>> At 08:48 PM 3/2/02 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>> Anyone want to try a SMT 2N2?
>>>
>>> If you're interested, I have some SMT MMBT2222's I would contribute
>>> for the sake of experimentation.
>>
>> Yes! How about after Atlanticon, Arkiecon, and Dayton, we dust
>> off the 2N2/30 design, as far as it has been done, and build a few
>> of those on 30 meters using mostly surface mount parts.
>>
>> As long as the effort doesn't get out of hand, and start impinging
>> on my spring/summer cycling, I'd be happy to assist. Then there is
>> the 2 band SSB/CW rig to consider too! :-)
>>
>> 72,
>>
>> Jim, K8IQY
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Welp - color me in for this one....
Here we go again!
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 22:32:36 -0500
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
>
> At 08:48 PM 3/2/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
>> Anyone want to try a SMT 2N2?
>>
>> If you're interested, I have some SMT MMBT2222's I would contribute
>> for the sake of experimentation.
>
> Yes! How about after Atlanticon, Arkiecon, and Dayton, we dust
> off the 2N2/30 design, as far as it has been done, and build a few
> of those on 30 meters using mostly surface mount parts.
>
> As long as the effort doesn't get out of hand, and start impinging
> on my spring/summer cycling, I'd be happy to assist. Then there is
> the 2 band SSB/CW rig to consider too! :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
KEWL.... Me to!!!! Hmmm that makes a completed 2N2/40+, working on
the 2N2/15, and now the 2N2/30! Boy, am I gonna be busy!!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
P.S. If we use 10K resistors, don't buy 'em I got a lifetime supply
off of Ebay (4700+)
|
1731|1731|2002-03-03 10:15:56|ke4vpn|Another Beginner Question|Hello all
I have finally got the parts for the 2n2 from Dans. I have starting
building the 17m converter to get my feet wet first. I just got
started and I am having trouble with the pads coming up after
soldering? Do you clean the board with a solvent first? Am I just
using to much heat? Am I just using too much glue? I want to try it
the pad way first, I have the pad cutter coming but I want to wait
till I see if I can get this working first. I also need a source for
the teflon wire that I can use for wiring the 2n2, thats all I have
left to buy. Has anyone tried a Rotozip to cut the copper clad
boards with? I dont have one but was thinking about buying one just
to see if it would work?
Thanks
Ronnie
I am also interested in the Surface mount projects, but I need to
finish these two first Hi.
|
1732|1731|2002-03-03 10:28:35|John Wagner|Re: Another Beginner Question|I cleaned the board first with a brillo pad, some hand cleaner (for
mechanics) and plent of water. I don't know if that makes a difference, but
the board looks nice and shiny.
For glud I find that the gel style is best to keep things from running all
over the place. I little dab-will-do-ya - i.e. don't use too much. Let the
glue dry for 30 seconds to a minute before soldering.
That's all the advice I have! Give it a shot and see if it works better.
73,
John, N1QO
> Hello all
> I have finally got the parts for the 2n2 from Dans. I have starting
> building the 17m converter to get my feet wet first. I just got
> started and I am having trouble with the pads coming up after
> soldering? Do you clean the board with a solvent first? Am I just
> using to much heat? Am I just using too much glue? I want to try it
> the pad way first, I have the pad cutter coming but I want to wait
> till I see if I can get this working first. I also need a source for
> the teflon wire that I can use for wiring the 2n2, thats all I have
> left to buy. Has anyone tried a Rotozip to cut the copper clad
> boards with? I dont have one but was thinking about buying one just
> to see if it would work?
> Thanks
> Ronnie
>
> I am also interested in the Surface mount projects, but I need to
> finish these two first Hi.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
John -
I checked out your website on mounting SMT parts on Manhattan pads. I'm
afraid you are in grave need of help. It was tough enough to build the
2N2-40 using Manhattan pads alone, almost impossible using the Islander
Pads, and now you want to mount one transistor on one pad? Even if you do
end up with the 2N2-20 on the head of a pin, what about the speaker and
knobs for the pots?
73 de Lee
KM4YY
==/==/==Police Sigline==/==/==Do Not Cross==/==/==
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 11:01 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
> If you haven't done so, take look at my web page about "SMP" - surface
mount
> pads. I used one to mount the extra parts on a TiCK keyer and it works
> smooth as silk!
>
> http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/smp/
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 22:49:11 -0500
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
> >
> > I'm ready to try it also. I'll have to get my glasses changed, but it
would
> > be fun...
> > 72 de Lee, KM4YY
> >
> > Government is beating into submission, imprisoning, and killing...The
> > authority of man-made law is entirely due to weapons of the constables
who
> > enforce obedience to its provisions.
> > --Ludwig von Mises
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 10:32 PM
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
> >
> >
> >> At 08:48 PM 3/2/02 -0500, you wrote:
> >>
> >>> Anyone want to try a SMT 2N2?
> >>>
> >>> If you're interested, I have some SMT MMBT2222's I would contribute
> >>> for the sake of experimentation.
> >>
> >> Yes! How about after Atlanticon, Arkiecon, and Dayton, we dust
> >> off the 2N2/30 design, as far as it has been done, and build a few
> >> of those on 30 meters using mostly surface mount parts.
> >>
> >> As long as the effort doesn't get out of hand, and start impinging
> >> on my spring/summer cycling, I'd be happy to assist. Then there is
> >> the 2 band SSB/CW rig to consider too! :-)
> >>
> >> 72,
> >>
> >> Jim, K8IQY
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
--- Lee Mairs <
lmairs@cox.rr.com> wrote:
> I'm ready to try it also. I'll have to get my
> glasses changed, but it would
> be fun...
> 72 de Lee, KM4YY
>
> >
I'm going to the eye dr. Tuesday to get new glasses
and also just got some smt 2n2222's from mouser last
week. Lets give it a go.
72,
Steve KE4JZG
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball
http://sports.yahoo.comHi Ronnie,
I used Glue from Radio Shack and it worked great. It's Archer "Instant Bonding Adhesive" I cleaned my board first using Tarn-X and one of those green scrubbing pads. Rinsed well with hot water and went for it. I'm using pads made from the Harbor freight hand punch, which works great. The material for the pads is some one sided copper board, not sure how thick it is.
When I glue down the pads, I hold the pad with my tweezers, place a drop of glue on the bottom of the pad, drop it in place and then apply pressure with the tweezers for about 10 seconds. I didn't have a single pad come up. And they are really in place. I've had to move a couple and it takes a bit to get them up. My soldering iron is a Weller WTCPT, not sure how hot it is.
The glue came in a .11 oz bottle and was enough to build two 2N2-40's! OK... I don't have one working.... but I've built two. More on that with another e-mail.
Good luck Ronnie. The guys here are great at helping us "rookies" out. Still looking forward to my first contact with a radio that I built from scratch. I find that the pictures on the 2N2-40 site really help. Some of them are close enough to see how someone else did it. Another thing that helped me tons was the post that Craig (AA0ZZ) has on the site for parts placement... check it out if you haven't.
Good luck! Have fun!
Tom Little
N0DSPGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download :
http://explorer.msn.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Tom -
Unscrew the tip holder on that Weller WTCPT and pull the tip out. At the
base of the tip is a number that indicates the tip temperature in 100
degrees F. I've had that model for over 20 years now, and it runs great.
When I went searching for a new soldering tool, the guys on the list
recommended sticking with it.
73 de Lee
Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
--Arthur C. Clarke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Little" <n0dsp@msn.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Another Beginner Question
> Hi Ronnie,
>
> I used Glue from Radio Shack and it worked great. It's Archer "Instant
Bonding Adhesive" I cleaned my board first using Tarn-X and one of those
green scrubbing pads. Rinsed well with hot water and went for it. I'm
using pads made from the Harbor freight hand punch, which works great. The
material for the pads is some one sided copper board, not sure how thick it
is.
>
> When I glue down the pads, I hold the pad with my tweezers, place a drop
of glue on the bottom of the pad, drop it in place and then apply pressure
with the tweezers for about 10 seconds. I didn't have a single pad come up.
And they are really in place. I've had to move a couple and it takes a bit
to get them up. My soldering iron is a Weller WTCPT, not sure how hot it
is.
>
> The glue came in a .11 oz bottle and was enough to build two 2N2-40's!
OK... I don't have one working.... but I've built two. More on that with
another e-mail.
>
> Good luck Ronnie. The guys here are great at helping us "rookies" out.
Still looking forward to my first contact with a radio that I built from
scratch. I find that the pictures on the 2N2-40 site really help. Some of
them are close enough to see how someone else did it. Another thing that
helped me tons was the post that Craig (AA0ZZ) has on the site for parts
placement... check it out if you haven't.
>
> Good luck! Have fun!
>
> Tom Little
> N0DSPGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download :
http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I looked at it too....man, those Vermont winters can make a man go
goofy.
It's an idea though!
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
HEATH HW-9 @ 2W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 11:10 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
> John -
> I checked out your website on mounting SMT parts on Manhattan pads.
I'm
> afraid you are in grave need of help. It was tough enough to build
the
> 2N2-40 using Manhattan pads alone, almost impossible using the
Islander
> Pads, and now you want to mount one transistor on one pad? Even if
you do
> end up with the 2N2-20 on the head of a pin, what about the speaker
and
> knobs for the pots?
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
>
> ==/==/==Police Sigline==/==/==Do Not Cross==/==/==
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 11:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
>
>
> > If you haven't done so, take look at my web page about "SMP" -
surface
> mount
> > pads. I used one to mount the extra parts on a TiCK keyer and it
works
> > smooth as silk!
> >
> > http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/smp/
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > John, N1QO
> >
> > > From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> > > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > > Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 22:49:11 -0500
> > > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
> > >
> > > I'm ready to try it also. I'll have to get my glasses changed,
but it
> would
> > > be fun...
> > > 72 de Lee, KM4YY
> > >
> > > Government is beating into submission, imprisoning, and
killing...The
> > > authority of man-made law is entirely due to weapons of the
constables
> who
> > > enforce obedience to its provisions.
> > > --Ludwig von Mises
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> > > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 10:32 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
> > >
> > >
> > >> At 08:48 PM 3/2/02 -0500, you wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> Anyone want to try a SMT 2N2?
> > >>>
> > >>> If you're interested, I have some SMT MMBT2222's I would
contribute
> > >>> for the sake of experimentation.
> > >>
> > >> Yes! How about after Atlanticon, Arkiecon, and Dayton, we dust
> > >> off the 2N2/30 design, as far as it has been done, and build a
few
> > >> of those on 30 meters using mostly surface mount parts.
> > >>
> > >> As long as the effort doesn't get out of hand, and start
impinging
> > >> on my spring/summer cycling, I'd be happy to assist. Then
there is
> > >> the 2 band SSB/CW rig to consider too! :-)
> > >>
> > >> 72,
> > >>
> > >> Jim, K8IQY
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > >> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
Sponsor ---------------------~-->
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>
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>
>
Hi guys!
I am looking for some help. I need to trouble shoot my 2N2-40 and
the good news is, I have a scope!!! The bad news is, I don't know
how to use it. I would REALLY appreciate your help. The scope is a
Tektronix 7603.
I will bring the 2N2-40, the scope and manual and lunch to you, if
you can help me.
Thank you very much!
Tom Little
N0DSP
Bailey, CO
ps... so close to a certificate! :)
|
1739|1739|2002-03-03 17:04:54|Brian Murrey|2N2 Certificates|Would the person doing the 2N2 certificates, please email me.
I would be willing to take over the certificate issuing if they are
interested.
Thanks
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
HEATH HW-9 @ 2W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
|
1740|1738|2002-03-03 17:14:34|John Wagner|Re: Oscilloscope Elmer needed in the Denver area! (I'll bring Lunc|Tom,
You are wise to ask for help - you'll find your scope invaluable after
learning to use it.
Have you read the o'scope tutorial by Paul Harden, NA5N? It's up in the file
area on the 2n2-40 site.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "n0dsp" <n0dsp@yahoo.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 21:55:01 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Oscilloscope Elmer needed in the Denver area! (I'll bring
> Lunch!)
>
> Hi guys!
>
> I am looking for some help. I need to trouble shoot my 2N2-40 and
> the good news is, I have a scope!!! The bad news is, I don't know
> how to use it. I would REALLY appreciate your help. The scope is a
> Tektronix 7603.
>
> I will bring the 2N2-40, the scope and manual and lunch to you, if
> you can help me.
>
> Thank you very much!
>
> Tom Little
> N0DSP
>
> Bailey, CO
>
> ps... so close to a certificate! :)
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
It works guys, I'm telling ya it does!!!
[and yes, the winters up here do make you a little goofy... that, or the
Canadian beer, not sure which]
73,
John, N1QO [slowly moving into mud season]
> From: "Brian Murrey" <brian@iquest.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 17:00:09 -0500
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
>
> I looked at it too....man, those Vermont winters can make a man go
> goofy. It's an idea though!
>
>
> ========================================
> KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
> QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
> FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
> HEATH HW-9 @ 2W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
> INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
> SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
> ========================================
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 11:10 AM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
>
>
>> John -
>> I checked out your website on mounting SMT parts on Manhattan pads.
> I'm
>> afraid you are in grave need of help. It was tough enough to build
> the
>> 2N2-40 using Manhattan pads alone, almost impossible using the
> Islander
>> Pads, and now you want to mount one transistor on one pad? Even if
> you do
>> end up with the 2N2-20 on the head of a pin, what about the speaker
> and
>> knobs for the pots?
>> 73 de Lee
>> KM4YY
>>
>>
>> ==/==/==Police Sigline==/==/==Do Not Cross==/==/==
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
>> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 11:01 PM
>> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
>>
>>
>>> If you haven't done so, take look at my web page about "SMP" -
> surface
>> mount
>>> pads. I used one to mount the extra parts on a TiCK keyer and it
> works
>>> smooth as silk!
>>>
>>> http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/smp/
>>>
>>> 73,
>>>
>>> John, N1QO
>>>
>>>> From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
>>>> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>>>> Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 22:49:11 -0500
>>>> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>>>> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
>>>>
>>>> I'm ready to try it also. I'll have to get my glasses changed,
> but it
>> would
>>>> be fun...
>>>> 72 de Lee, KM4YY
>>>>
>>>> Government is beating into submission, imprisoning, and
> killing...The
>>>> authority of man-made law is entirely due to weapons of the
> constables
>> who
>>>> enforce obedience to its provisions.
>>>> --Ludwig von Mises
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
>>>> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>>>> Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 10:32 PM
>>>> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> At 08:48 PM 3/2/02 -0500, you wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Anyone want to try a SMT 2N2?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If you're interested, I have some SMT MMBT2222's I would
> contribute
>>>>>> for the sake of experimentation.
>>>>>
>>>>> Yes! How about after Atlanticon, Arkiecon, and Dayton, we dust
>>>>> off the 2N2/30 design, as far as it has been done, and build a
> few
>>>>> of those on 30 meters using mostly surface mount parts.
>>>>>
>>>>> As long as the effort doesn't get out of hand, and start
> impinging
>>>>> on my spring/summer cycling, I'd be happy to assist. Then
> there is
>>>>> the 2 band SSB/CW rig to consider too! :-)
>>>>>
>>>>> 72,
>>>>>
>>>>> Jim, K8IQY
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>>>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
> Sponsor ---------------------~-->
>> Buy Stock for $4.
>> No Minimums.
>> FREE Money 2002.
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>> --------------------------------------------------------------------
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>>
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>>
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>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
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>
>
>
Ha ha ha - thanks Lee, I got a good chuckle out of this!
I think what I'm going to do is build up a PixieII using SMD's first, just
to warm up. Anyone else game?
73,
John, N1QO
> John -
> I checked out your website on mounting SMT parts on Manhattan pads. I'm
> afraid you are in grave need of help. It was tough enough to build the
> 2N2-40 using Manhattan pads alone, almost impossible using the Islander
> Pads, and now you want to mount one transistor on one pad? Even if you do
> end up with the 2N2-20 on the head of a pin, what about the speaker and
> knobs for the pots?
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
>
> ==/==/==Police Sigline==/==/==Do Not Cross==/==/==
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 11:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
>
>
>> If you haven't done so, take look at my web page about "SMP" - surface
> mount
>> pads. I used one to mount the extra parts on a TiCK keyer and it works
>> smooth as silk!
>>
>> http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/smp/
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> John, N1QO
>>
>>> From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
>>> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>>> Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 22:49:11 -0500
>>> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
>>>
>>> I'm ready to try it also. I'll have to get my glasses changed, but it
> would
>>> be fun...
>>> 72 de Lee, KM4YY
>>>
>>> Government is beating into submission, imprisoning, and killing...The
>>> authority of man-made law is entirely due to weapons of the constables
> who
>>> enforce obedience to its provisions.
>>> --Ludwig von Mises
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
>>> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 10:32 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] SMT
>>>
>>>
>>>> At 08:48 PM 3/2/02 -0500, you wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Anyone want to try a SMT 2N2?
>>>>>
>>>>> If you're interested, I have some SMT MMBT2222's I would contribute
>>>>> for the sake of experimentation.
>>>>
>>>> Yes! How about after Atlanticon, Arkiecon, and Dayton, we dust
>>>> off the 2N2/30 design, as far as it has been done, and build a few
>>>> of those on 30 meters using mostly surface mount parts.
>>>>
>>>> As long as the effort doesn't get out of hand, and start impinging
>>>> on my spring/summer cycling, I'd be happy to assist. Then there is
>>>> the 2 band SSB/CW rig to consider too! :-)
>>>>
>>>> 72,
>>>>
>>>> Jim, K8IQY
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 05:10 PM 3/3/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Would the person doing the 2N2 certificates, please email me.
That would be Preston Douglas, WJ2V. His email address is:
pdouglas12@aol.com Preston has been very kind in offering this service to the
2N2/40 builders, but is running out of certificate stock
I believe.
>I would be willing to take over the certificate issuing if they are
>interested.
Email Preston and see what he has to say about you taking over.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:15 PM 3/3/02 +0000, Ronnie wrote:
>Hello all
>I have finally got the parts for the 2n2 from Dans. I have starting
>building the 17m converter to get my feet wet first. I just got
>started and I am having trouble with the pads coming up after
>soldering? Do you clean the board with a solvent first?
No. First clean the board with some 3M Scotch Brite pad, which
is wet and also has some common scouring powder on it. Clean to
board until it is bright and shiny all over. Wash it well in soapy
water next, then a good rinse, and finally dry it with an old
towel. Keep you fingers off of it as much as possible, as they
transfer grease to the board. Make sure that each pad that will be
glued down has been swiped a time or two on some 220 grit wet
and dry sandpaper, used dry. This cleans the copper, and roughs
up the fiberglass, so that the super glue will hold. Use only a very
small amount of super glue on the back of each pad, and place it down
where you want it to be. A good pair of forceps (tweezers) helps here.
Hold each pad down for about 10 seconds and it will be there forever,
unless you use way too much heat on it, your super glue is old, or
you've used too much. A properly glue pad will require a pair of
side cutters to remove if glued down properly.
> Am I just
>using to much heat?
Maybe, but I'm guessing that your pads aren't glued down correctly,
and that's why they are coming off. Usually, as properly glued pad
will have the copper come off from too much heat before the pad will
release from the substrate.
>Am I just using too much glue?
Maybe......see above.
> I want to try it
>the pad way first, I have the pad cutter coming but I want to wait
>till I see if I can get this working first.
Regardless of the cutter, being able to put pads down and keep them
there is good to know. You might not be able to cut a pad where
you need one, or you might want to switch to a rectangular pad for
special areas like crystal filters.
> I also need a source for
>the teflon wire that I can use for wiring the 2n2, thats all I have
>left to buy.
Contact N2GO, Jim. He still has a good supply, and is the best
source for this kind of wire that I know of.
> Has anyone tried a Rotozip to cut the copper clad
>boards with? I dont have one but was thinking about buying one just
>to see if it would work?
Probably will work fine if you have the right kind of cutter in
it, and some way of guiding it. Wear a dust mask and safety glasses
if your are going to cut the board that way. There will be lots of
tiny copper and fiberglass particles flying aroung during the cutting.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Took my 2n240 to the SPARTEN SPRITS today.14 QSO'S..13 STATES in 1 hour on
40 meters at night. I must say the receiver is HOT HOT HOT
iT WAS FUN
WES W3ERU
|
1746|1746|2002-03-05 16:32:31|Karl F. Larsen|Slow beginner start|I have made the VFO and have hooked the 10 turn pot up and applied
12 vdc to it and nothing oscillates. I today checked all the wiring
against the schematic and it's right. There are a couple of components
that are old, from an old VCR I took apart. One is the varicap D7 and the
2 100 pf caps at the emiter of Q2.
IS there an easy way to check these componets? The caps I can
check with my MFJ Antenna Analzer but how do you check D7?
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/Karl -
My best debugging tool was a continuity tester (DMM) with an audible output.
The vast majority of mistakes were found with it poling around looking for
inadvertent shorts to ground.
73 de Lee, KM4YY
The natural progress of things is for liberty to yield and government to
gain ground.
--Thomas Jefferson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 5:21 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Slow beginner start
>
> I have made the VFO and have hooked the 10 turn pot up and applied
> 12 vdc to it and nothing oscillates. I today checked all the wiring
> against the schematic and it's right. There are a couple of components
> that are old, from an old VCR I took apart. One is the varicap D7 and the
> 2 100 pf caps at the emiter of Q2.
>
> IS there an easy way to check these componets? The caps I can
> check with my MFJ Antenna Analzer but how do you check D7?
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Wes,
\o/ \o/ \o/ \o/
Soooo *nice* to rcv your report!!!!!!!!!!
73 hw wp4gvw (ex kp4abf)
--- Wes Clopton <
w3eru@drix.net> wrote:
> Took my 2n240 to the SPARTEN SPRITS today.14
> QSO'S..13 STATES in 1 hour on
> 40 meters at night. I must say the receiver is HOT
> HOT HOT
>
> iT WAS FUN
>
> WES W3ERU
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
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>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
http://mail.yahoo.com/Wait a minute! Q2 was the oscillator in the original circuit but Q1 is the
oscillator in the newer circuit. Glad I got that straight. Thing is, I
don't see 100 pF caps anywhere in the circuit, emitter of Q2 or otherwise.
Maybe I don't have the latest schematic in front of me. In the new circuit,
there are no caps in the emitter circuit of Q2 and the caps in the emitter
circuit of Q1 (the oscillator) are .001 uF (1000 pF).
Arth
Arth Silvers wrote:
> Karl,
>
> I'm not the expert here but check the voltages at Q2 and the continuity
> in the feedback loop. Got to have amplification and feedback for
> oscillation. D7 operates as a voltage controlled variable cap and and
> you should get oscillation anyway although maybe at an unexpected
> frequency if D7 isn't doing its job.
>
> Again, not the expert but just a suggestion.
>
> 72 and keep us posted,
> Arth W6AGS 2N2/40 #16
>
> I have made the VFO and have hooked
> the 10 turn pot up and applied
> 12 vdc to it and nothing oscillates. I
> today checked all the wiring
> against the schematic and it's right.
> There are a couple of components
> that are old, from an old VCR I took
> apart. One is the varicap D7 and the
> 2 100 pf caps at the emiter of Q2.
>
> IS there an easy way to check these
> componets? The caps I can
> check with my MFJ Antenna Analzer but
> how do you check D7?
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
Well, I just finished the last section on my rig. In my excitement to test, I managed to reverse the polarity of my power connections. Of course, I did this without first fusing my incoming power leads...LESSON LEARNED!! I did blow the fuse in my bench power supply. I'm sure I let the smoke out of something, but I'm not sure where to start looking. All three of the LED's are lit and the voltage readings on the transistors I checked were OK. Any Ideas or suggestions?? Thanks in advance.
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
1751|1750|2002-03-06 17:19:19|John Wagner|Re: Reverse Polarity|Check the diodes in the VFO... in fact check all the diodes. My experience
has been they are the first to go when you run the radio backwards.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Patrick York" <pyork@cetlink.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 22:48:24 -0500
> To: "2n2-40" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [2n2-40] Reverse Polarity
>
> Well, I just finished the last section on my rig. In my excitement to test, I
> managed to reverse the polarity of my power connections. Of course, I did
> this without first fusing my incoming power leads...LESSON LEARNED!! I did
> blow the fuse in my bench power supply. I'm sure I let the smoke out of
> something, but I'm not sure where to start looking. All three of the LED's
> are lit and the voltage readings on the transistors I checked were OK. Any
> Ideas or suggestions?? Thanks in advance.
>
> 72 de Pat KF4LMZ
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Well my face is Red but it was a good lesson. I left out 2
resistors from the VFO and one was the 1k in the emitter to ground of the
oscillator transistor. Now it works. I need to now check the frequency and
check linearity. This will be simple in comparison to making it work.
I plan to count the number of resistors and caps in the section.
Then just count them when I think I'm done...:-)
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/Don't feel bad, I made some similar mistakes also. One thing I found
that helped me is to make a copy of the schematic then use a
highlighter to mark off each part as it placed in. Before the smoke
test I often go back and highlight or mark it again to make sure of
each connection before I fire it up. It doesn't eliminate all my
mistakes but it sure helps me keep track of where I am at.
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Karl F. Larsen" wrote:
>
> Well my face is Red but it was a good lesson. I left out 2
> resistors from the VFO and one was the 1k in the emitter to ground
of the
> oscillator transistor. Now it works. I need to now check the
frequency and
> check linearity. This will be simple in comparison to making it
work.
>
> I plan to count the number of resistors and caps in the
section.
> Then just count them when I think I'm done...:-)
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@a... (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
I got the FE section built and it seems to work sort of. I can
receive signals from a signal generator but not "off the air". I am
building off the original schematic from the 1998 QRPp. Adjusting the
variable caps (TC1 and TC2) does not really seem to make a big
difference as far as a peak. I am using a shortwave as the outboard
receiver and did not connect with a shielded cable. I just used an
aligator clip to the antenna (Not sure if that would make a difference
or not). Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!
|
1755|1752|2002-03-06 21:27:19|John Wagner|Re: VFO Oscillates!|Congrats Karl - you've built the heart of your radio and it's beating! ;)
73,
John, N1QO
>
> Well my face is Red but it was a good lesson. I left out 2
> resistors from the VFO and one was the 1k in the emitter to ground of the
> oscillator transistor. Now it works. I need to now check the frequency and
> check linearity. This will be simple in comparison to making it work.
>
> I plan to count the number of resistors and caps in the section.
> Then just count them when I think I'm done...:-)
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Some folks (much more organized than I could ever be) select and lay out all
the parts for the section prior to building it. This would help prevent
overlooking stuff. I use a pencil and mark out each component after it is
installed. Yes, I still forget to install things, and the project doesn't
work, but then it is comforting when I find out that I hadn't marked off the
part either!
73 de Lee
KM4YY
The Romans did not create a great empire by having meetings; they did it by
killing off their enemies.
--anonymous
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 7:31 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] VFO Oscillates!
>
> Well my face is Red but it was a good lesson. I left out 2
> resistors from the VFO and one was the 1k in the emitter to ground of the
> oscillator transistor. Now it works. I need to now check the frequency and
> check linearity. This will be simple in comparison to making it work.
>
> I plan to count the number of resistors and caps in the section.
> Then just count them when I think I'm done...:-)
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Karl,
I'm not the expert here but check the voltages at Q2 and the continuity
in the feedback loop. Got to have amplification and feedback for
oscillation. D7 operates as a voltage controlled variable cap and and
you should get oscillation anyway although maybe at an unexpected
frequency if D7 isn't doing its job.
Again, not the expert but just a suggestion.
72 and keep us posted,
Arth W6AGS 2N2/40 #16
I have made the VFO and have hooked
the 10 turn pot up and applied
12 vdc to it and nothing oscillates. I
today checked all the wiring
against the schematic and it's right.
There are a couple of components
that are old, from an old VCR I took
apart. One is the varicap D7 and the
2 100 pf caps at the emiter of Q2.
IS there an easy way to check these
componets? The caps I can
check with my MFJ Antenna Analzer but
how do you check D7?
--
Yours Truly,
|
1758|1758|2002-03-06 21:45:00|John Wagner|coming home|Got an email from Jim yesterday that he had received my rig, done the
troubleshooting and that it was headed back home.
Jim said I had the transformers in the DBM built wrong and hooked up wrong.
I had a working radio at one point, and in all my mucking around I had
rebuilt the DBM transformers at one time or another and messed it up. Jim
tells me the receiver is super sensitive now and quiet, so much so that he
modified the AF pre-amp I had installed to reduce the gain.
Jim also advised that I go through the xmit section and look closely at the
transformers there, which I will do.
I'm really excited that he was able to get the radio back up and clicking!
One day I hope to return the favor to Jim, and/or the QRP community. He has
given us all something to shoot for - a class act all the way.
So thanks again Jim - and to the group, look for me again on 40m REAL SOON
NOW!
73,
John, N1QO
|
1759|1758|2002-03-06 21:56:32|Lee Mairs|Re: coming home|Jim -
What are you talking about "re-paying the favor to the QRP community"???
It was your leadership in the parts gathering drill that got a whole bunch
of us going in the first place. As for Jim, I think we should start a
grass roots campaign to get him nominated QRPer of the Year! Anybody know
how to do that???
73 de Lee
km4yy
If a man stands in the middle of the forest speaking and there is no
woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?
--Anonymous
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 9:30 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] coming home
> Got an email from Jim yesterday that he had received my rig, done the
> troubleshooting and that it was headed back home.
>
> Jim said I had the transformers in the DBM built wrong and hooked up
wrong.
>
> I had a working radio at one point, and in all my mucking around I had
> rebuilt the DBM transformers at one time or another and messed it up. Jim
> tells me the receiver is super sensitive now and quiet, so much so that he
> modified the AF pre-amp I had installed to reduce the gain.
>
> Jim also advised that I go through the xmit section and look closely at
the
> transformers there, which I will do.
>
> I'm really excited that he was able to get the radio back up and clicking!
> One day I hope to return the favor to Jim, and/or the QRP community. He
has
> given us all something to shoot for - a class act all the way.
>
> So thanks again Jim - and to the group, look for me again on 40m REAL SOON
> NOW!
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> Jim -
John. John, John, John, John, John. ;)
> What are you talking about "re-paying the favor to the QRP community"???
>
> It was your leadership in the parts gathering drill that got a whole bunch
> of us going in the first place. As for Jim, I think we should start a
Yeah well, the more I involve myself in doing things with the QRP community,
the more I feel like I'm on the receiving end of a favor! For every person I
send an odd part to, three others send me something!
Honestly, I made a trade with a guy recently for a bunch of crystals, and in
return he sends the agreed upon parts + a couple-a-few extra other parts
that weren't even mentioned!
I had a guy send me a part I needed once, and just said "pass on the favor"
- so I did, then the favor comes back, in spades!
And let's not forget what the QRP clubs have done for us; I look at the
Warbler and SMK-1, that I paid something like $35 ea for and think man, some
serious time and energy went into designing and kitting these things, and it
only cost me $35! How do you repay that?
Anyway, you get the drift. Tough crowd!
73,
John, N1QO
> grass roots campaign to get him nominated QRPer of the Year! Anybody know
> how to do that???
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
> If a man stands in the middle of the forest speaking and there is no
> woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?
> --Anonymous
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 9:30 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] coming home
>
>
>> Got an email from Jim yesterday that he had received my rig, done the
>> troubleshooting and that it was headed back home.
>>
>> Jim said I had the transformers in the DBM built wrong and hooked up
> wrong.
>>
>> I had a working radio at one point, and in all my mucking around I had
>> rebuilt the DBM transformers at one time or another and messed it up. Jim
>> tells me the receiver is super sensitive now and quiet, so much so that he
>> modified the AF pre-amp I had installed to reduce the gain.
>>
>> Jim also advised that I go through the xmit section and look closely at
> the
>> transformers there, which I will do.
>>
>> I'm really excited that he was able to get the radio back up and clicking!
>> One day I hope to return the favor to Jim, and/or the QRP community. He
> has
>> given us all something to shoot for - a class act all the way.
>>
>> So thanks again Jim - and to the group, look for me again on 40m REAL SOON
>> NOW!
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> John, N1QO
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I'm pretty sure there was discussion of a test jig for varicap diodes in
this group a while back - may want to search the archives.
Regardless, I think you can just unhook D7 and the VFO will still oscillate.
It sounds to me like something else is wrong. Can you post a closeup digital
pic to the group or on a website that we can look at?
Also, did you check the voltages from the Tx/Tx driver to make sure it's
working correctly?
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 15:21:15 -0700 (MST)
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [2n2-40] Slow beginner start
>
>
> I have made the VFO and have hooked the 10 turn pot up and applied
> 12 vdc to it and nothing oscillates. I today checked all the wiring
> against the schematic and it's right. There are a couple of components
> that are old, from an old VCR I took apart. One is the varicap D7 and the
> 2 100 pf caps at the emiter of Q2.
>
> IS there an easy way to check these componets? The caps I can
> check with my MFJ Antenna Analzer but how do you check D7?
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Karl, The varicap D7 in the VFO should be MVAM109 to get the tuning range
the VFO is designed for..You can test a varicap by building a test jig so
that you can bias
and measure the capacitance with a capacitance meter. See the Graph in t
he photo section..
cc10 and c11 are .001 uf or 1000pf polyester caps..not 100pf check
them..maybe thats
why it isnt working.
Wes
At 05:21 PM 3/4/02, you wrote:
> I have made the VFO and have hooked the 10 turn pot up and applied
>12 vdc to it and nothing oscillates. I today checked all the wiring
>against the schematic and it's right. There are a couple of components
>that are old, from an old VCR I took apart. One is the varicap D7 and the
>2 100 pf caps at the emiter of Q2.
>
> IS there an easy way to check these componets? The caps I can
>check with my MFJ Antenna Analzer but how do you check D7?
>
>--
>Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hopefully, the only thing that went south was the diode across PS input. I
did the same thing when I was building it up, and the only thing that went
was that diode (1N4007 I think it is).
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.comAt 12:57 AM 3/7/02 +0000, n3knz wrote:
>I got the FE section built and it seems to work sort of. I can
>receive signals from a signal generator but not "off the air".
What kind of signal generator are you using, and what kind of amplitude
are you driving the front-end with? If it is a lot of signal, let's
say, greater than -80 dBm, something is terribly wrong.
> I am
>building off the original schematic from the 1998 QRPp.
Why? The more recent schematic is a better design, and there is
a lot more in trouble shooting information on the Yahoo web site.
> Adjusting the
>variable caps (TC1 and TC2) does not really seem to make a big
>difference as far as a peak.
Adjusting those should make a profound difference in the amount of
signal getting through. Do either of those circuits have a double
peak as the corresponding trimmer is rotated through 360 degrees. If
not, then the circuits are not peaking, do to too little capacitance,
or too much inductance.
> I am using a shortwave as the outboard
>receiver and did not connect with a shielded cable.
> I just used an
>aligator clip to the antenna (Not sure if that would make a difference
>or not).
It does, but not to the extent that you are describing. My guess is
that something is markedly wrong. The tuned circuits may not be
right, you could have a shorted diode in the rf t/r switch coming from
the antenna, or the DBM isn't set up correctly. If either of the
transformers in the DBM isn't wound correctly or the leads hooked up
correctly, the front-end is very deaf. It could also be that you have
the phasing of the transformer in the RF amplifer incorrect, and it
is oscillating and not amplifying.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim Kortege wrote:
> ... If it is a lot of signal, let's say, greater than -80 dBm, something
is terribly wrong.
>
I don't understand what is meant by -80 dBm. In the old daze one talked
about milli-volts or micro-volts as the descriptor of signal strength.
Would someone explain this to me?
73 de Lee,
km4yy
At 10:44 AM 3/7/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Jim Kortege wrote:
> > ... If it is a lot of signal, let's say, greater than -80 dBm, something
>is terribly wrong.
> >
>I don't understand what is meant by -80 dBm. In the old daze one talked
>about milli-volts or micro-volts as the descriptor of signal strength.
>Would someone explain this to me?
>73 de Lee,
>km4yy
Yes, I'd be happy to do that. -80 dBm is a signal level referenced
to 1 milliwatt, which is the standard for calibrating most signal
generators. 0 dBm is one milliwatt, and is also 225 millivolts RMS
across 50 ohms. -80 dBm is 22 microvolts across 50 ohms. I picked
that value as it represents a kinda gross level of sensitivity for
a receiver. Most decent receivers can hear a signal down to at least
1 microvolt, or -107 dBm, and really good ones can hear a signal down
to -127 dBm, or 0.1 microvolts. I just find it a lot easier to work
with dBm, than microvolts, since my primary generator is calibrated that
way. And, when was the last time you saw receiver specs like MDS
and opposite sideband rejection expressed in millivolts or microvolts.
That will work, but you have to give a reference for the measurement
to make any sense. With dBm, it's built in IMHO.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Jim. As usual you make it easy to understand.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
> Yes, I'd be happy to do that. -80 dBm is a signal level referenced
> to 1 milliwatt, which is the standard for calibrating most signal
Lee,
Hey, I might be able to finally help you!! :) What Jim is saying is
the signal is 80 dB below 1 milliwatt of power. I'm sure the handbook has a
conversion chart to convert it to voltage. Hope my memory is correct!!
72
.mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee Mairs [mailto:
lmairs@cox.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 7:45 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Dumb question?
Jim Kortege wrote:
> ... If it is a lot of signal, let's say, greater than -80 dBm, something
is terribly wrong.
>
I don't understand what is meant by -80 dBm. In the old daze one talked
about milli-volts or micro-volts as the descriptor of signal strength.
Would someone explain this to me?
73 de Lee,
km4yy
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Thanks for the Hints I will double check all the torroids. I only
used the original because I had already ordered all the parts before I
found out/signed onto the list. Maybe I will just change midstream.
I also had been relying on the pictorial parts layout guide for my
first try, I was afraid would miss some things converting from the
schematic to actual parts location.
Even though everything hasn't worked at the first try, I am learning
alot more when it doesn't work.
Thanks!
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 12:57 AM 3/7/02 +0000, n3knz wrote:
>
> >I got the FE section built and it seems to work sort of. I can
> >receive signals from a signal generator but not "off the air".
>
> What kind of signal generator are you using, and what kind of
amplitude
> are you driving the front-end with? If it is a lot of signal, let's
> say, greater than -80 dBm, something is terribly wrong.
>
> > I am
> >building off the original schematic from the 1998 QRPp.
>
> Why? The more recent schematic is a better design, and there is
> a lot more in trouble shooting information on the Yahoo web site.
>
> > Adjusting the
> >variable caps (TC1 and TC2) does not really seem to make a big
> >difference as far as a peak.
>
> Adjusting those should make a profound difference in the amount of
> signal getting through. Do either of those circuits have a double
> peak as the corresponding trimmer is rotated through 360 degrees.
If
> not, then the circuits are not peaking, do to too little
capacitance,
> or too much inductance.
>
> > I am using a shortwave as the outboard
> >receiver and did not connect with a shielded cable.
> > I just used an
> >aligator clip to the antenna (Not sure if that would make a
difference
> >or not).
>
> It does, but not to the extent that you are describing. My guess is
> that something is markedly wrong. The tuned circuits may not be
> right, you could have a shorted diode in the rf t/r switch coming
from
> the antenna, or the DBM isn't set up correctly. If either of the
> transformers in the DBM isn't wound correctly or the leads hooked up
> correctly, the front-end is very deaf. It could also be that you
have
> the phasing of the transformer in the RF amplifer incorrect, and it
> is oscillating and not amplifying.
>
> 72 and GL,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
This afternoon I coupled my VFO output to a FT-817 and found it
was low in freqency and I could not tune far. I reversed the varicap and
it came up a little in frequency and tuned fine. But was still 20 KHz low
with the capacitor full in.
I took 2 turns off the VFO toroid and it moved up just right with
the cap about 1/2 capacity. The linearity is VERY good. The old analog
computer 10 turn pot I have was made by Bourns about 1960 and it's still
clean and smooth. I have a regular analog computer 10 turn dial too and it
will read 0 at 7.000 MHz and 100 at 7.1 MHz pretty close.
So now to locate the spot for the front end and print the layout
and clean the foil at that part and glue in some pads. Then get a small
box and put the parts in that. Then start soldering them in.
I feel real good. The VFO was difficult but I learned a lot. I
have a Masters in EE and before that I was a Senior Research Technitian
with Hughes AC. It was certain I needed to get a degree. My hands are too
large.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/Beg, borrow or steal some different colored magnet wire for winding the
toroids. Dan's Small Pats has some. I found the probability to be almost 1
that I would screw up any toroid with more than two wire involved.
Definitely change to the new schematic. Ignore the pictures in the book.
Check out the web site for some excellent pictures to give you an idea about
parts placement.
73 de Lee
km4yy
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools."
- Herbert Spencer
----- Original Message -----
From: "n3knz" <jgbur@ptd.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 5:44 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: FE Question
> Thanks for the Hints I will double check all the torroids. I only
> used the original because I had already ordered all the parts before I
> found out/signed onto the list. Maybe I will just change midstream.
> I also had been relying on the pictorial parts layout guide for my
> first try, I was afraid would miss some things converting from the
> schematic to actual parts location.
>
> Even though everything hasn't worked at the first try, I am learning
> alot more when it doesn't work.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > At 12:57 AM 3/7/02 +0000, n3knz wrote:
> >
> > >I got the FE section built and it seems to work sort of. I can
> > >receive signals from a signal generator but not "off the air".
> >
> > What kind of signal generator are you using, and what kind of
> amplitude
> > are you driving the front-end with? If it is a lot of signal, let's
> > say, greater than -80 dBm, something is terribly wrong.
> >
> > > I am
> > >building off the original schematic from the 1998 QRPp.
> >
> > Why? The more recent schematic is a better design, and there is
> > a lot more in trouble shooting information on the Yahoo web site.
> >
> > > Adjusting the
> > >variable caps (TC1 and TC2) does not really seem to make a big
> > >difference as far as a peak.
> >
> > Adjusting those should make a profound difference in the amount of
> > signal getting through. Do either of those circuits have a double
> > peak as the corresponding trimmer is rotated through 360 degrees.
> If
> > not, then the circuits are not peaking, do to too little
> capacitance,
> > or too much inductance.
> >
> > > I am using a shortwave as the outboard
> > >receiver and did not connect with a shielded cable.
> > > I just used an
> > >aligator clip to the antenna (Not sure if that would make a
> difference
> > >or not).
> >
> > It does, but not to the extent that you are describing. My guess is
> > that something is markedly wrong. The tuned circuits may not be
> > right, you could have a shorted diode in the rf t/r switch coming
> from
> > the antenna, or the DBM isn't set up correctly. If either of the
> > transformers in the DBM isn't wound correctly or the leads hooked up
> > correctly, the front-end is very deaf. It could also be that you
> have
> > the phasing of the transformer in the RF amplifer incorrect, and it
> > is oscillating and not amplifying.
> >
> > 72 and GL,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I can only strongly concur with Lee's advice here, in particular the
different colored wire. I will NOT build any more transformers without
different colored wire again.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 19:19:48 -0500
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: FE Question
>
> Beg, borrow or steal some different colored magnet wire for winding the
> toroids. Dan's Small Pats has some. I found the probability to be almost 1
> that I would screw up any toroid with more than two wire involved.
>
> Definitely change to the new schematic. Ignore the pictures in the book.
> Check out the web site for some excellent pictures to give you an idea about
> parts placement.
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
> "The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to
> fill the world with fools."
> - Herbert Spencer
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "n3knz" <jgbur@ptd.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 5:44 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: FE Question
>
>
>> Thanks for the Hints I will double check all the torroids. I only
>> used the original because I had already ordered all the parts before I
>> found out/signed onto the list. Maybe I will just change midstream.
>> I also had been relying on the pictorial parts layout guide for my
>> first try, I was afraid would miss some things converting from the
>> schematic to actual parts location.
>>
>> Even though everything hasn't worked at the first try, I am learning
>> alot more when it doesn't work.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>>> At 12:57 AM 3/7/02 +0000, n3knz wrote:
>>>
>>>> I got the FE section built and it seems to work sort of. I can
>>>> receive signals from a signal generator but not "off the air".
>>>
>>> What kind of signal generator are you using, and what kind of
>> amplitude
>>> are you driving the front-end with? If it is a lot of signal, let's
>>> say, greater than -80 dBm, something is terribly wrong.
>>>
>>>> I am
>>>> building off the original schematic from the 1998 QRPp.
>>>
>>> Why? The more recent schematic is a better design, and there is
>>> a lot more in trouble shooting information on the Yahoo web site.
>>>
>>>> Adjusting the
>>>> variable caps (TC1 and TC2) does not really seem to make a big
>>>> difference as far as a peak.
>>>
>>> Adjusting those should make a profound difference in the amount of
>>> signal getting through. Do either of those circuits have a double
>>> peak as the corresponding trimmer is rotated through 360 degrees.
>> If
>>> not, then the circuits are not peaking, do to too little
>> capacitance,
>>> or too much inductance.
>>>
>>>> I am using a shortwave as the outboard
>>>> receiver and did not connect with a shielded cable.
>>>> I just used an
>>>> aligator clip to the antenna (Not sure if that would make a
>> difference
>>>> or not).
>>>
>>> It does, but not to the extent that you are describing. My guess is
>>> that something is markedly wrong. The tuned circuits may not be
>>> right, you could have a shorted diode in the rf t/r switch coming
>> from
>>> the antenna, or the DBM isn't set up correctly. If either of the
>>> transformers in the DBM isn't wound correctly or the leads hooked up
>>> correctly, the front-end is very deaf. It could also be that you
>> have
>>> the phasing of the transformer in the RF amplifer incorrect, and it
>>> is oscillating and not amplifying.
>>>
>>> 72 and GL,
>>>
>>> Jim, K8IQY
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Karl -
In my day, a degree in EE just meant that you'd survived five years in a
calculus monastery!
Another trick I learned too late to get the full benefit: When your board
is clean, mask out the areas still not used with paper to keep them clean.
About the time I finished the FE, the rest of the board was grimy from
finger sweat/oils.
73 de Lee
km4yy
What if there were no hypothetical questions?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 5:14 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] VFO done
> This afternoon I coupled my VFO output to a FT-817 and found it
> was low in freqency and I could not tune far. I reversed the varicap and
> it came up a little in frequency and tuned fine. But was still 20 KHz low
> with the capacitor full in.
>
> I took 2 turns off the VFO toroid and it moved up just right with
> the cap about 1/2 capacity. The linearity is VERY good. The old analog
> computer 10 turn pot I have was made by Bourns about 1960 and it's still
> clean and smooth. I have a regular analog computer 10 turn dial too and it
> will read 0 at 7.000 MHz and 100 at 7.1 MHz pretty close.
>
> So now to locate the spot for the front end and print the layout
> and clean the foil at that part and glue in some pads. Then get a small
> box and put the parts in that. Then start soldering them in.
>
> I feel real good. The VFO was difficult but I learned a lot. I
> have a Masters in EE and before that I was a Senior Research Technitian
> with Hughes AC. It was certain I needed to get a degree. My hands are too
> large.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
At 10:48 PM 3/5/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Well, I just finished the last section on my rig. In my excitement to
>test, I managed to reverse the polarity of my power connections. Of
>course, I did this without first fusing my incoming power leads...LESSON
>LEARNED!! I did blow the fuse in my bench power supply. I'm sure I let
>the smoke out of something, but I'm not sure where to start looking. All
>three of the LED's are lit and the voltage readings on the transistors I
>checked were OK. Any Ideas or suggestions?? Thanks in advance.
>
>72 de Pat KF4LMZ
Pat,
I assuming that you didn't build the Input Power circuitry and have
that in place when you reversed the power polarity. If the electrolytic
capacitors didn't blow up, then probably no damage is done. If a
transistor was going to blow up, it would do so immediately, and let
out lots of smoke. A quick check with a DMM will confirm that they
are all biased correctly.
You didn't say if the rig was working before the accident or not.
That would be good information to know.
72,
JIm, K8IQY
I'm about to start making the Front End. My test will be to hook
my good antenna to the front end in the evening when 40 CW is hopping and
I expect to hear good strong signals on my FT-817 tuned to 4.915 MHz. I
will tune around a see how it sounds.
If I hear no QRM and CW I'll know I screwed up again!
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/At 03:02 PM 3/7/02 -0700, you wrote:
> I'm about to start making the Front End. My test will be to hook
>my good antenna to the front end in the evening when 40 CW is hopping and
>I expect to hear good strong signals on my FT-817 tuned to 4.915 MHz. I
>will tune around a see how it sounds.
>
> If I hear no QRM and CW I'll know I screwed up again!
Karl....if you have it built correctly, you'll hear tons of
signals on ~4.915, depending on how well your VFO is set to the
correct range.
72 and GL
Jim, K8IQY
I know this will stir up a hornet's nest, and I sure can't explain it. I
never had the mute circuit problem with "Thumping" or "Cracking" that others
have reported, and I am using the "straight off the schematic" original
2N7000 mute circuit.
I was putting the finishing touches on my 2N2-40 - installing it in the
TenTec enclosure, fitting the front panel labels, etc. I'd read about the
advisability of installing the 22 ufd capacitor at the Tx voltage
distribution point over by the Tx Driver, so I put one in.
If its not broke, don't fix it! Sure enough, after bolting everything
together finding out it was deaf, unbolting everything, connecting the
antenna wire to the BNC, and re-bolting everything, I was ready for a QSO.
Lo and behold, the mute circuit mutes with a loud crack each time I key the
rig.
This morning I excised the 22 ufd capacitor and all was right with the
world. Anybody got an explanation? Is that whooshing sound I hear, solder
suckers removing 22 ufd capacitors?
73 de Lee,
km4yy
The state calls its own violence "law", but that of the individual "crime."
--Max Stirner
|
1778|1778|2002-03-08 16:32:43|John Wagner|rigs back.. let's party|Fellow 2n2-40'ers,
My rig arrived back home today from it's trip to MI and Jim's workbench. It
works Super FB (SFB?) now fer sure.
At one point in my 2n2-40's life it worked fairly well. In all the poking
and proding I did, and rebuilding the DBM at one time, I managed to mess it
up. My plan now is to NOT, um, "muck" with it unless it's broke!!!
I made one QSO with it, VE2DW, John over in Montreal who is 94 and been a
ham forever. I never QSO'ed with VE2DW before, but I have to say it's a real
treat to work a genuine OT. During the QSO he told me about his first radio;
five tubes and a ford spark coil if you can believe that! I told him about
the 2n2-40 and he said it sounded real solid for 2w.
So that's a great QSO, and I'm confident there is extra mojo juice installed
in my rig now!!!
I plan to be on tonight after 9pm or so 'till the Q's stop coming. Look for
me around 7.040 and up - I'll be the guy swaggering around with a half full
bottle of mojo juice in one hand and a CW paddle in the other. ;)
73,
John, N1QO
|
1779|1778|2002-03-08 17:50:29|Wes Clopton|Re: rigs back.. let's party|Go for it John, My 2n240 is giving me pleasure also...certificate #29....
Ive had at least 2 QSOs a day with it since Feb 7.....Ive also meet VE2DW
and It was a treat..
Ill try to catch you tonite...
Wes
At 04:32 PM 3/8/02, you wrote:
>Fellow 2n2-40'ers,
>
>My rig arrived back home today from it's trip to MI and Jim's workbench. It
>works Super FB (SFB?) now fer sure.
>
>I plan to be on tonight after 9pm or so 'till the Q's stop coming. Look for
>me around 7.040 and up - I'll be the guy swaggering around with a half full
>bottle of mojo juice in one hand and a CW paddle in the other. ;)
>
>73,
>
>John, N1QO
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 04:32 PM 3/8/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Fellow 2n2-40'ers,
>
>My rig arrived back home today from it's trip to MI and Jim's workbench. It
>works Super FB (SFB?) now fer sure.
>
>-snippity snip-
>
>I plan to be on tonight after 9pm or so 'till the Q's stop coming. Look for
>me around 7.040 and up - I'll be the guy swaggering around with a half full
>bottle of mojo juice in one hand and a CW paddle in the other. ;)
>
>73,
>
>John, N1QO
Hmmmmm.....is this the first official 2N2/40+ nite?? I'm going to
be on too, hoping to work John again. Any other takers after 9:00
EST on and around 7040?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks I used different colored wires but I may redo them anyways. I
didn't wind in the same direction as my drawings which makes it
confusing for me to make sure I did everything right. I will switch
to the new schematics.
Are the VFO and TR/Switch and the FE section alot different on the new
one versus old I haven't compared yet.
Also is the parts list current in the files area? I will have to
figure out what new parts I have to order.
Thanks everyone for the hints!
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> I can only strongly concur with Lee's advice here, in particular the
> different colored wire. I will NOT build any more transformers
without
> different colored wire again.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "Lee Mairs"
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@y...
> > Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 19:19:48 -0500
> > To: <2n2-40@y...>
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: FE Question
> >
> > Beg, borrow or steal some different colored magnet wire for
winding the
> > toroids. Dan's Small Pats has some. I found the probability to
be almost 1
> > that I would screw up any toroid with more than two wire involved.
> >
> > Definitely change to the new schematic. Ignore the pictures in
the book.
> > Check out the web site for some excellent pictures to give you an
idea about
> > parts placement.
> > 73 de Lee
> > km4yy
> >
> > "The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is
to
> > fill the world with fools."
> > - Herbert Spencer
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "n3knz"
> > To: <2n2-40@y...>
> > Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 5:44 PM
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Re: FE Question
> >
> >
> >> Thanks for the Hints I will double check all the torroids. I
only
> >> used the original because I had already ordered all the parts
before I
> >> found out/signed onto the list. Maybe I will just change
midstream.
> >> I also had been relying on the pictorial parts layout guide for
my
> >> first try, I was afraid would miss some things converting from
the
> >> schematic to actual parts location.
> >>
> >> Even though everything hasn't worked at the first try, I am
learning
> >> alot more when it doesn't work.
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >>
> >> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> >>> At 12:57 AM 3/7/02 +0000, n3knz wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> I got the FE section built and it seems to work sort of. I can
> >>>> receive signals from a signal generator but not "off the air".
> >>>
> >>> What kind of signal generator are you using, and what kind of
> >> amplitude
> >>> are you driving the front-end with? If it is a lot of signal,
let's
> >>> say, greater than -80 dBm, something is terribly wrong.
> >>>
> >>>> I am
> >>>> building off the original schematic from the 1998 QRPp.
> >>>
> >>> Why? The more recent schematic is a better design, and there is
> >>> a lot more in trouble shooting information on the Yahoo web
site.
> >>>
> >>>> Adjusting the
> >>>> variable caps (TC1 and TC2) does not really seem to make a big
> >>>> difference as far as a peak.
> >>>
> >>> Adjusting those should make a profound difference in the amount
of
> >>> signal getting through. Do either of those circuits have a
double
> >>> peak as the corresponding trimmer is rotated through 360
degrees.
> >> If
> >>> not, then the circuits are not peaking, do to too little
> >> capacitance,
> >>> or too much inductance.
> >>>
> >>>> I am using a shortwave as the outboard
> >>>> receiver and did not connect with a shielded cable.
> >>>> I just used an
> >>>> aligator clip to the antenna (Not sure if that would make a
> >> difference
> >>>> or not).
> >>>
> >>> It does, but not to the extent that you are describing. My
guess is
> >>> that something is markedly wrong. The tuned circuits may not be
> >>> right, you could have a shorted diode in the rf t/r switch
coming
> >> from
> >>> the antenna, or the DBM isn't set up correctly. If either of
the
> >>> transformers in the DBM isn't wound correctly or the leads
hooked up
> >>> correctly, the front-end is very deaf. It could also be that
you
> >> have
> >>> the phasing of the transformer in the RF amplifer incorrect, and
it
> >>> is oscillating and not amplifying.
> >>>
> >>> 72 and GL,
> >>>
> >>> Jim, K8IQY
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
How 'bout we call it the first unnofficial one and go for it?!
Looking forward to working as many 2n2/40's and/or members of the group (no
2n2-40 required!).
73,
John, N1QO
> Hmmmmm.....is this the first official 2N2/40+ nite?? I'm going to
> be on too, hoping to work John again. Any other takers after 9:00
> EST on and around 7040?
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Just finished a short QSO w/K8IQY - he passed me a 429 with QSB, him a 229
with QSB. Much noise and fading but great to work the designer of the radio
with the radio he designed!!!
Still on, somewhere above 7.040...
73,
John, N1QO
|
1784|1778|2002-03-08 22:40:43|Lee Mairs|Re: rigs back.. let's party|Well I heard John, N1QO, and called him but he came back to N3RK north of
Baltimore. I waited for the QSO to end, but John must have thrown the
switch immediately. He was about a 339 down here in Northern Virginia.
Felt kinda silly with that KW sitting right there alongside the 2N2-40, but
figured that blasting thru to John would be akin to cheating.
I'll be taking the 2N2-40 to WV this weekend where the first chore will be
hanging a Carolina Windom 160 between the two pulleys I already have rigged
in the trees about 45' up. That should work better than the 10 year old
40-30 meter dipoles that now have trees running thru them!
73 de Lee
km4yy
Right now I'm having amnesia and deja-vu at the same time. I think I've
forgotten this before.
--Steven Wright
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@drix.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] rigs back.. let's party
> Go for it John, My 2n240 is giving me pleasure also...certificate
#29....
> Ive had at least 2 QSOs a day with it since Feb 7.....Ive also meet VE2DW
> and It was a treat..
> Ill try to catch you tonite...
>
> Wes
>
> At 04:32 PM 3/8/02, you wrote:
> >Fellow 2n2-40'ers,
> >
> >My rig arrived back home today from it's trip to MI and Jim's workbench.
It
> >works Super FB (SFB?) now fer sure.
> >
> >I plan to be on tonight after 9pm or so 'till the Q's stop coming. Look
for
> >me around 7.040 and up - I'll be the guy swaggering around with a half
full
> >bottle of mojo juice in one hand and a CW paddle in the other. ;)
> >
> >73,
> >
> >John, N1QO
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Dang it Lee, sorry I missed you. I did throw the switch right after signing
with N3RK as I had to take care of something upstairs and then ended up
watching TV with the XYL. That was a nice Q with N3RK - he's 77 and blind.
You meet some of the neatest people on the air that you would probably never
have a chance to meet in person.
I'm going to be on quite a bit with my newly revitalized 2n2/40+, so I'm
sure we'll get a chance for a QSO again.
Gang, if you're still plugging away on your 2n2-40, keep at it - it's an
awful fun radio!
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 22:48:32 -0500
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] rigs back.. let's party
>
> Well I heard John, N1QO, and called him but he came back to N3RK north of
> Baltimore. I waited for the QSO to end, but John must have thrown the
> switch immediately. He was about a 339 down here in Northern Virginia.
> Felt kinda silly with that KW sitting right there alongside the 2N2-40, but
> figured that blasting thru to John would be akin to cheating.
>
> I'll be taking the 2N2-40 to WV this weekend where the first chore will be
> hanging a Carolina Windom 160 between the two pulleys I already have rigged
> in the trees about 45' up. That should work better than the 10 year old
> 40-30 meter dipoles that now have trees running thru them!
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
I am just getting started in my 2N2-40 project. I have ordered the
parts I need from Dan's and hopefully will have them in a week or so.
I have cleaned the board, and successfully completed the RX/TX Driver
portion. So far, so good!
I wanted to say how impressed I am with the group here. I can't tell
you how excited I am to be building this radio and that there is a
grop of enthusiastic amateurs that can help me out when I have
questions or a problem. I have been reading email from the list for a
week now, and the group seems extremely friendly.
Best 72 to you all.
Jeff - K8GD
|
1787|1786|2002-03-09 16:35:51|John Wagner|Re: Just getting started|Hey Jeff,
I'm sure I won't be the only one to welcome you aboard... but maybe I'll be
the first. ;) Great to have you here and looking forward to watching your
progress and helping if possible. If you have a digital camera, please post
some pictures of your radio as it gets built so the rest of us can follow
along.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 16:06:44 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Just getting started
>
> I am just getting started in my 2N2-40 project. I have ordered the
> parts I need from Dan's and hopefully will have them in a week or so.
> I have cleaned the board, and successfully completed the RX/TX Driver
> portion. So far, so good!
>
> I wanted to say how impressed I am with the group here. I can't tell
> you how excited I am to be building this radio and that there is a
> grop of enthusiastic amateurs that can help me out when I have
> questions or a problem. I have been reading email from the list for a
> week now, and the group seems extremely friendly.
>
> Best 72 to you all.
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I'm still waiting on Dan's myself! It's been alitte more than a week since I
placed my order, but it was for a fair amount and I haven't used Dan's
before. In the mean time, my 9 year old has been asking if he can help build
the rig! So, I need to clear some space at the bench so he can sit with me.
He's the same age I was when I got interested in radio, so keep your fingers
crossed the he gets bitten by the amateur radio bug!
72
--{ Mark E Schoonover KA6WKE
--{ Senior Hacker, IS Gopher, Hardware Fiend
--{ American Geotechnical
--{
http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke --{
ka6wke@amsat.org /"\
\ / ASCII Ribbon Campaign
X Against HTML Mail
/ \
-----Original Message-----
From: dek8gd [mailto:
jhecht@dnaco.net]
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 8:07 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Just getting started
I am just getting started in my 2N2-40 project. I have ordered the
parts I need from Dan's and hopefully will have them in a week or so.
I have cleaned the board, and successfully completed the RX/TX Driver
portion. So far, so good!
I wanted to say how impressed I am with the group here. I can't tell
you how excited I am to be building this radio and that there is a
grop of enthusiastic amateurs that can help me out when I have
questions or a problem. I have been reading email from the list for a
week now, and the group seems extremely friendly.
Best 72 to you all.
Jeff - K8GD
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Hello Jim,
You are correct....I did not build the Input Power circuitry before I
decided to reverse the power polarity. None of the electrolytic capacitors
let their smoke out. I checked the transistors with my DMM and they appear
to be ok (all voltages are at/close to the voltages listed on the
schematics. I also checked several diodes. They appear to be ok as well.
I guess I got lucky this time....thank goodness for the fast acting fuse in
my bench power supply!!
As for whether the rig was working before my "accident", no it was not
(sigh). I still have some problems to work out. The VFO is oscillating &
has approximately 100 Khz of coverage. When I connect the output of the
receiver IF to my general coverage receiver tuned to 4915 Mhz, I can hear
the signal from my SMK1 keyed into a dummy load (~7.040Mhz), but I still
can't hear any other signals. I couldn't figure out what the problem was,
so I went ahead and finished the other sections. I feel like I am close to
having it working, but I'm at a loss as to what to do next. I can't wait to
get it working!
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Reverse Polarity
> At 10:48 PM 3/5/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Well, I just finished the last section on my rig. In my excitement to
> >test, I managed to reverse the polarity of my power connections. Of
> >course, I did this without first fusing my incoming power leads...LESSON
> >LEARNED!! I did blow the fuse in my bench power supply. I'm sure I let
> >the smoke out of something, but I'm not sure where to start looking. All
> >three of the LED's are lit and the voltage readings on the transistors I
> >checked were OK. Any Ideas or suggestions?? Thanks in advance.
> >
> >72 de Pat KF4LMZ
>
> Pat,
>
> I assuming that you didn't build the Input Power circuitry and have
> that in place when you reversed the power polarity. If the electrolytic
> capacitors didn't blow up, then probably no damage is done. If a
> transistor was going to blow up, it would do so immediately, and let
> out lots of smoke. A quick check with a DMM will confirm that they
> are all biased correctly.
>
> You didn't say if the rig was working before the accident or not.
> That would be good information to know.
>
> 72,
>
> JIm, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Mark,
I've found Dan's to be very reliable - usually a good 2week + a few days
turn around from when I mail the check to delivery.
As for your son, that's a great thing! My oldest (11) has built a TT2, but
after seeing it work he soon lost interest. My youngest (7) soldered a bunch
of stuff together and thought that was neat too. However neither of them
expressed much interest in doing anything past that. I'm not going to push
either of them that hard and hope their natural curiousity takes over. GL!
73,
John, N1QO
> From: Mark Schoonover <schoon@amgt.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 21:17:14 -0800
> To: "'2n2-40@yahoogroups.com'" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Just getting started
>
> I'm still waiting on Dan's myself! It's been alitte more than a week since I
> placed my order, but it was for a fair amount and I haven't used Dan's
> before. In the mean time, my 9 year old has been asking if he can help build
> the rig! So, I need to clear some space at the bench so he can sit with me.
> He's the same age I was when I got interested in radio, so keep your fingers
> crossed the he gets bitten by the amateur radio bug!
>
> 72
>
> --{ Mark E Schoonover KA6WKE
> --{ Senior Hacker, IS Gopher, Hardware Fiend
> --{ American Geotechnical
> --{ http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke
> --{ ka6wke@amsat.org
>
> /"\
> \ / ASCII Ribbon Campaign
> X Against HTML Mail
> / \
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dek8gd [mailto:jhecht@dnaco.net]
> Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 8:07 AM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Just getting started
>
>
> I am just getting started in my 2N2-40 project. I have ordered the
> parts I need from Dan's and hopefully will have them in a week or so.
> I have cleaned the board, and successfully completed the RX/TX Driver
> portion. So far, so good!
>
> I wanted to say how impressed I am with the group here. I can't tell
> you how excited I am to be building this radio and that there is a
> grop of enthusiastic amateurs that can help me out when I have
> questions or a problem. I have been reading email from the list for a
> week now, and the group seems extremely friendly.
>
> Best 72 to you all.
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Thanks to all who replied to my post and for the encouragement. And
Mark, that is exactly how I was when I was 9, so encourage him. Right
now, as you know, it is magic to him, but as he understands more, his
appetite may get bigger, and before you know it, he is pounding out cw
faster than you can copy!
Best 72 to you all.
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Mark Schoonover wrote:
> I'm still waiting on Dan's myself! It's been alitte more than a week
since I
> placed my order, but it was for a fair amount and I haven't used
Dan's
> before. In the mean time, my 9 year old has been asking if he can
help build
> the rig! So, I need to clear some space at the bench so he can sit
with me.
> He's the same age I was when I got interested in radio, so keep your
fingers
> crossed the he gets bitten by the amateur radio bug!
>
> 72
>
> --{ Mark E Schoonover KA6WKE
> --{ Senior Hacker, IS Gopher, Hardware Fiend
> --{ American Geotechnical
> --{ http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke
> --{ ka6wke@a...
>
> /"\
> \ / ASCII Ribbon Campaign
> X Against HTML Mail
> / \
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dek8gd [mailto:jhecht@d...]
> Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 8:07 AM
> To: 2n2-40@y...
> Subject: [2n2-40] Just getting started
>
>
> I am just getting started in my 2N2-40 project. I have ordered the
> parts I need from Dan's and hopefully will have them in a week or
so.
> I have cleaned the board, and successfully completed the RX/TX
Driver
> portion. So far, so good!
>
> I wanted to say how impressed I am with the group here. I can't
tell
> you how excited I am to be building this radio and that there is a
> grop of enthusiastic amateurs that can help me out when I have
> questions or a problem. I have been reading email from the list for
a
> week now, and the group seems extremely friendly.
>
> Best 72 to you all.
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Mark, Jeff and group.
I'll always recommend Dan's Small Parts as an excellent, economical
source of parts for us homebrewers. Don't get excited if you don't
receive your order from Dan's in a week. I have had orders from him take
up to a month but I've always kept in mind that Dan is a "one man band"
and his delivery times may vary depending upon many factors. Be that as
it may, I've always been satisfied with his product quality and pricing.
73.......Steve Smith, WB6TNL
Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.At 12:32 PM 3/8/02 -0500, Lee,km4yy wrote:
>I know this will stir up a hornet's nest, and I sure can't explain it. I
>never had the mute circuit problem with "Thumping" or "Cracking" that others
>have reported, and I am using the "straight off the schematic" original
>2N7000 mute circuit.
Great to hear.....at least one rig that I know of works as designed!! :-)
>I was putting the finishing touches on my 2N2-40 - installing it in the
>TenTec enclosure, fitting the front panel labels, etc. I'd read about the
>advisability of installing the 22 ufd capacitor at the Tx voltage
>distribution point over by the Tx Driver, so I put one in.
>
>If its not broke, don't fix it! Sure enough, after bolting everything
>together finding out it was deaf, unbolting everything, connecting the
>antenna wire to the BNC, and re-bolting everything, I was ready for a QSO.
>Lo and behold, the mute circuit mutes with a loud crack each time I key the
>rig.
My guess is that it depends on how the wiring is routed in the
rig. I wish is wasn't that way, but there seems to be a lot of
variability in the keying parameter. For the most part, delaying
the transmitter coming on until the receiver is muted helps most
rigs. That's what the 22uF capacitor is supposed to do. Obviously
your rig doesn't need the help.
>This morning I excised the 22 ufd capacitor and all was right with the
>world. Anybody got an explanation?
Not a very good one. Just guesses........
> Is that whooshing sound I hear, solder
>suckers removing 22 ufd capacitors?
Not on my rig. It's in there to stay. I've run it with out,
and as they say, "it ain't pretty".
72 and thanks for the report Lee,
Jim, K8IQY
At 12:25 AM 3/9/02 +0000, n3knz wrote:
>Thanks I used different colored wires but I may redo them anyways. I
>didn't wind in the same direction as my drawings which makes it
>confusing for me to make sure I did everything right. I will switch
>to the new schematics.
>
>Are the VFO and TR/Switch and the FE section alot different on the new
>one versus old I haven't compared yet.
Depends on how far you go into the front-end. From the antenna through
the double tuned filter, the old and new designs are the same, but
after the double tuned filter, they start to differ significantly.
>Also is the parts list current in the files area?
No, that's the old parts list, from the original QRPp article. I
need to update the parts list, but have been working on some other
projects that need to get done before Atlanticon.
> I will have to
>figure out what new parts I have to order.
Actually, nothing exotic. You may have everything you need
in your junk box, if you've got the parts for the older configuration.
72 and good building,
Jim, K8IQY
At 01:07 AM 3/10/02 -0500, Pat KF4LMZ wrote:
>Hello Jim,
Greetings Pat,
>You are correct....I did not build the Input Power circuitry before I
>decided to reverse the power polarity. None of the electrolytic capacitors
>let their smoke out. I checked the transistors with my DMM and they appear
>to be ok (all voltages are at/close to the voltages listed on the
>schematics. I also checked several diodes. They appear to be ok as well.
>I guess I got lucky this time....thank goodness for the fast acting fuse in
>my bench power supply!!
Yes, I agree. I think nothing got zapped. That's good.
>As for whether the rig was working before my "accident", no it was not
>(sigh). I still have some problems to work out. The VFO is oscillating &
>has approximately 100 Khz of coverage.
How much signal is driving the receiver DBM?
> When I connect the output of the
>receiver IF to my general coverage receiver tuned to 4915 Mhz, I can hear
>the signal from my SMK1 keyed into a dummy load (~7.040Mhz), but I still
>can't hear any other signals.
Sure sounds like something isn't tuning up in the front-end, or is
shorted/open, or the receiver DBM is getting driven hard enough.
It may also be that you have the Rx LO incorrectly set, and the receiver
IF is way down the slope of the crystal filter. Read my little ditty
posted on the Yahoo site about setting that LO correctly.
> I couldn't figure out what the problem was,
>so I went ahead and finished the other sections.
I think that was a smart move......no we gotta figure out how to
make it play correctly.
> I feel like I am close to
>having it working, but I'm at a loss as to what to do next. I can't wait to
>get it working!
Me too.......if all else fails, you can send it to me and I'll be
happy to take a look at it, but it will have to wait until after
Atlanticon. I'm booked solid until then. See if you can find someone
near who has a good signal generator and scope that might be able to
help you trouble shoot it.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim , Lee and Gang,,
I found one other cause that you should check.
TRANS MITER DRIVE. When you turn up the drive, mine flattens out
just before you reach the end of the pot..back off till you reach max
drive and dont overdrive...With a o scope you will see the rise and decay
slopes and keying distortion at the ANT OUTPUT..
WES
At 10:22 PM 3/10/02, you wrote:
>At 12:32 PM 3/8/02 -0500, Lee,km4yy wrote:
>
> >I know this will stir up a hornet's nest, and I sure can't explain it. I
> >never had the mute circuit problem with "Thumping" or "Cracking" that others
> >have reported, and I am using the "straight off the schematic" original
> >2N7000 mute circuit.
>
>Great to hear.....at least one rig that I know of works as designed!! :-)
>
>
> >I was putting the finishing touches on my 2N2-40 - installing it in the
> >TenTec enclosure, fitting the front panel labels, etc. I'd read about the
> >advisability of installing the 22 ufd capacitor at the Tx voltage
> >distribution point over by the Tx Driver, so I put one in.
> >
> >If its not broke, don't fix it! Sure enough, after bolting everything
> >together finding out it was deaf, unbolting everything, connecting the
> >antenna wire to the BNC, and re-bolting everything, I was ready for a QSO.
> >Lo and behold, the mute circuit mutes with a loud crack each time I key the
> >rig.
>
>My guess is that it depends on how the wiring is routed in the
>rig. I wish is wasn't that way, but there seems to be a lot of
>variability in the keying parameter. For the most part, delaying
>the transmitter coming on until the receiver is muted helps most
>rigs. That's what the 22uF capacitor is supposed to do. Obviously
>your rig doesn't need the help.
>
>
> >This morning I excised the 22 ufd capacitor and all was right with the
> >world. Anybody got an explanation?
>
>Not a very good one. Just guesses........
>
> > Is that whooshing sound I hear, solder
> >suckers removing 22 ufd capacitors?
>
>Not on my rig. It's in there to stay. I've run it with out,
>and as they say, "it ain't pretty".
>
>72 and thanks for the report Lee,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Gang,
I was set to build another 2n2-40 for another ham, but apparently the other
ham lost interest.
It was so much fun building the first 2n2-40 that I want to build another...
however I personally don't need another one. So I've considered waiting for
whatever Jim comes up with next and building that, which I still want to do.
I also considered building another 2n2-40 and giving it away... then I came
up with a better idea;
Build a Stone Soup 2n2-40+
I think it would be a great idea if we collectively built a radio. What we
could do is figure out who is interested and decide who is going to build
what. We can build on one board and mail the project to the next person.
Another possibility is building each section on individual boards and
combining them later - the problem with this approach is testing.
When the rig is complete, we can do a couple of things; We can send it
around to anyone who is interested in using a 2n2-40 but for some can't
build their own. We can send it around to clubs. We could probably send it
to the QRP editor at QST for a write up (would that be great to have a
2n2-40 reviewed in QST or what?!).
And in the end, I was thinking we could auction it off and donate the
proceeds to a charity.
Parts;
I've got a good start (some mine, some left over from the donations); all of
the diodes, 2n2222's, 2N7000, RFC's, audio transformer, most of the
resistors and a filter kit. I've got all of the toroids, but wouldn't be
upset if someone helped out here(!). I don't have the caps (have some) or
POT's. I do have a board that we can build on and plently of pads. Maybe
what we can do is have each person who builds supply the parts for their
section? ... or have them gather the parts from donations, or ??? We also
need a chasis (it should be rugged!).
Pitfalls;
Rig getting lost in the mail. Rig sitting for months on someones bench. Rig
gets finished and mailed to someone and we never hear from that person again
(doubtful in my mind, but you never know). Probably some other pitfalls, but
I still think it's a good idea.
Is there any interest in doing this amongst the group?
73,
John, N1QO
|
1798|1797|2002-03-11 14:11:33|Brian|Re: Group Rig|Sign me up.
What caps do you need?
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 1:16 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Group Rig
> Gang,
>
> I was set to build another 2n2-40 for another ham, but apparently the
other
> ham lost interest.
>
> It was so much fun building the first 2n2-40 that I want to build
another...
> however I personally don't need another one. So I've considered waiting
for
> whatever Jim comes up with next and building that, which I still want to
do.
> I also considered building another 2n2-40 and giving it away... then I
came
> up with a better idea;
>
> Build a Stone Soup 2n2-40+
>
> I think it would be a great idea if we collectively built a radio. What we
> could do is figure out who is interested and decide who is going to build
> what. We can build on one board and mail the project to the next person.
> Another possibility is building each section on individual boards and
> combining them later - the problem with this approach is testing.
>
> When the rig is complete, we can do a couple of things; We can send it
> around to anyone who is interested in using a 2n2-40 but for some can't
> build their own. We can send it around to clubs. We could probably send it
> to the QRP editor at QST for a write up (would that be great to have a
> 2n2-40 reviewed in QST or what?!).
>
> And in the end, I was thinking we could auction it off and donate the
> proceeds to a charity.
>
> Parts;
>
> I've got a good start (some mine, some left over from the donations); all
of
> the diodes, 2n2222's, 2N7000, RFC's, audio transformer, most of the
> resistors and a filter kit. I've got all of the toroids, but wouldn't be
> upset if someone helped out here(!). I don't have the caps (have some) or
> POT's. I do have a board that we can build on and plently of pads. Maybe
> what we can do is have each person who builds supply the parts for their
> section? ... or have them gather the parts from donations, or ??? We also
> need a chasis (it should be rugged!).
>
> Pitfalls;
> Rig getting lost in the mail. Rig sitting for months on someones bench.
Rig
> gets finished and mailed to someone and we never hear from that person
again
> (doubtful in my mind, but you never know). Probably some other pitfalls,
but
> I still think it's a good idea.
>
> Is there any interest in doing this amongst the group?
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hello again
Got all the parts and getting ready to build the 2n2. I have been
working on the 17m converter, but im about ready to start the 40m.
Just cant wait to get to it Hi. I may put the 17m aside to begin the
40 since I got my feet wet now. Let me know if anyone is intersted
in building along with me. Im sure I will have some questions for
the group. Thanks for all the help so far.
72 de ke4vpn
Ronnie
|
1800|1800|2002-03-12 12:09:00|Wes Clopton|Armadillo Stew|My 2n2-40 is in training for the Pesky Texan Armadillo Chase
That should be fun........
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
|
1801|1801|2002-03-12 17:26:29|Karl F. Larsen|Getting there|Today I got the Front End built. Hooked up the vfo and 12 vdc and
tomorrow will see if it works.
I have the stuff for the 2N2/40+ and it looks like some changes in
this area. I hope I don't need to change anything.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/Yes. ;)
I need all of the varicaps, the .22 uF's, the polys and mylars - probably
have the rest in the junque box (fast becoming "inventory").
And I need more people! ... Haven't had much response, just curious if
anyone thinks it's a bad idea or it won't work. I'm not attached to the
idea, but I think it could be fun.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Brian" <brian@iquest.net>
> Organization: QRP - It's whats for dinner!
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 12:59:54 -0400
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Group Rig
>
> Sign me up.
>
> What caps do you need?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 1:16 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Group Rig
>
>
>> Gang,
>>
>> I was set to build another 2n2-40 for another ham, but apparently the
> other
>> ham lost interest.
>>
>> It was so much fun building the first 2n2-40 that I want to build
> another...
>> however I personally don't need another one. So I've considered waiting
> for
>> whatever Jim comes up with next and building that, which I still want to
> do.
>> I also considered building another 2n2-40 and giving it away... then I
> came
>> up with a better idea;
>>
>> Build a Stone Soup 2n2-40+
>>
>> I think it would be a great idea if we collectively built a radio. What we
>> could do is figure out who is interested and decide who is going to build
>> what. We can build on one board and mail the project to the next person.
>> Another possibility is building each section on individual boards and
>> combining them later - the problem with this approach is testing.
>>
>> When the rig is complete, we can do a couple of things; We can send it
>> around to anyone who is interested in using a 2n2-40 but for some can't
>> build their own. We can send it around to clubs. We could probably send it
>> to the QRP editor at QST for a write up (would that be great to have a
>> 2n2-40 reviewed in QST or what?!).
>>
>> And in the end, I was thinking we could auction it off and donate the
>> proceeds to a charity.
>>
>> Parts;
>>
>> I've got a good start (some mine, some left over from the donations); all
> of
>> the diodes, 2n2222's, 2N7000, RFC's, audio transformer, most of the
>> resistors and a filter kit. I've got all of the toroids, but wouldn't be
>> upset if someone helped out here(!). I don't have the caps (have some) or
>> POT's. I do have a board that we can build on and plently of pads. Maybe
>> what we can do is have each person who builds supply the parts for their
>> section? ... or have them gather the parts from donations, or ??? We also
>> need a chasis (it should be rugged!).
>>
>> Pitfalls;
>> Rig getting lost in the mail. Rig sitting for months on someones bench.
> Rig
>> gets finished and mailed to someone and we never hear from that person
> again
>> (doubtful in my mind, but you never know). Probably some other pitfalls,
> but
>> I still think it's a good idea.
>>
>> Is there any interest in doing this amongst the group?
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> John, N1QO
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I'll be running my 2n2-40 as well Wes. Hoping for a clean sweep of TX
armidillo here.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: Wes Clopton <w3eru@drix.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 12:08:53 -0500
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Armadillo Stew
>
> My 2n2-40 is in training for the Pesky Texan Armadillo Chase
>
> That should be fun........
>
>
>
>
> W3ERU Wes
> ARRL
> FISTS #2099
> QRPARCI 8304
> QRP-L 2179
> CW is my Mode
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I set my FT-817 receiver to 4.915 MHz and wired the DBM output to
it. Without any antenna on the front end I can tune in the many BC radio
stations in the area. They are very strong, and tune with changing the
Oscillator frequency.
I turned on another transmitter on 7.050 and I can tune this in as
well, but the BC signals are much stronger.
I have about 12 feet of cable to the power supply. The tuning on
the broadcast stations seems fast like they are mixed with the second
harmonic of the oscillator.
The IF stage will strip off the 900 KHz signal but wonder if this
a common problem?
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/Karl,
The problem with my radio turned out to be improper trifilar's in the DMB,
which Jim corrected. It manifested itself as broadcast QRM. Although I'm not
certain, you may want to quadruple check those trifilars. I *will not* do
them again without the benefit of three different colors of wire.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 11:09:27 -0700 (MST)
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [2n2-40] Broadcast band?
>
>
> I set my FT-817 receiver to 4.915 MHz and wired the DBM output to
> it. Without any antenna on the front end I can tune in the many BC radio
> stations in the area. They are very strong, and tune with changing the
> Oscillator frequency.
>
> I turned on another transmitter on 7.050 and I can tune this in as
> well, but the BC signals are much stronger.
>
> I have about 12 feet of cable to the power supply. The tuning on
> the broadcast stations seems fast like they are mixed with the second
> harmonic of the oscillator.
>
> The IF stage will strip off the 900 KHz signal but wonder if this
> a common problem?
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 11:09 AM 3/13/02 -0700, Karl, K5DI wrote:
> I set my FT-817 receiver to 4.915 MHz and wired the DBM output to
>it. Without any antenna on the front end I can tune in the many BC radio
>stations in the area. They are very strong, and tune with changing the
>Oscillator frequency.
That's not a good sign. Are the stations really close by? If not,
it could be a problem somewhere in the front-end, either with
the RF amp or the DBM.
>
>
> I turned on another transmitter on 7.050 and I can tune this in as
>well, but the BC signals are much stronger.
How much antenna was connected to the rig when this was happening? Can
the signal at 7.050 be peaked with the 3 input trimmers? Which RF amp
did you decide to build?
> I have about 12 feet of cable to the power supply.
That's certainly not an ideal setup, but probably not the source
of the problem.
> The tuning on
>the broadcast stations seems fast like they are mixed with the second
>harmonic of the oscillator.
Sounds more like one or more of the DBM transformers is not wound or
wired correctly. I saw similar behavior in N1QO's rig when I had it
here. Both of the DBM transformers were connected incorrectly, and it
did work well at all. I was hearing all sorts of short wave BC stations
which were much louder than in band signals. When I rewired the
transformers to be correct, all of the BC stuff went away, and the
inband signals came way up in strength.
> The IF stage will strip off the 900 KHz signal but wonder if this
>a common problem?
Well there shouldn't be a lot of 900 KHz signal into the crystal filter.
The front-end filters ought to be taking that out, but if the DBM isn't
correct, then all bets are off.
72 and GL troubleshooting the rig Karl,
Jim, K8IQY
Heard Wes once tonite bagging an armadillo shell from KQ5U - had to repeat
his name a couple times, but the QSO went through.
I know he was running the 2n2-40 'cause I heard him send "2w" for his power.
Your rig sounded great here Wes, we could have made a QSO tonite for sure.
Good job - hope there were a lot of 2n2-40's in the hunt tonite. I grabbed
11 shells myself and had a blast. The 2n2-40 sure is a lot of fun... my
IC-746 is starting to get lonely!
73,
John, N1QO
|
1808|1807|2002-03-13 23:22:49|Wes Clopton|Re: W3ERU - heard ya here tonite!|Didnt hear you John but I bagged 16 and should have two more but they
didnt hear me...Its was fun and the 2n240 worked like a champ...Yea my
ts850 looks sad..guess I need to operate more..
2 watts and my vertical loop on 40 ...
Wes
At 11:13 PM 3/13/02, you wrote:
>Heard Wes once tonite bagging an armadillo shell from KQ5U - had to repeat
>his name a couple times, but the QSO went through.
>
>I know he was running the 2n2-40 'cause I heard him send "2w" for his power.
>
>Your rig sounded great here Wes, we could have made a QSO tonite for sure.
>
>Good job - hope there were a lot of 2n2-40's in the hunt tonite. I grabbed
>11 shells myself and had a blast. The 2n2-40 sure is a lot of fun... my
>IC-746 is starting to get lonely!
>
>73,
>
>John, N1QO
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hi John, I was for-warned and did use 3 differnet colored wires. I may not
have them installed right. Will double check.
On Wed, 13 Mar 2002, John Wagner wrote:
> Karl,
>
> The problem with my radio turned out to be improper trifilar's in the DMB,
> which Jim corrected. It manifested itself as broadcast QRM. Although I'm not
> certain, you may want to quadruple check those trifilars. I *will not* do
> them again without the benefit of three different colors of wire.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 11:09:27 -0700 (MST)
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Broadcast band?
> >
> >
> > I set my FT-817 receiver to 4.915 MHz and wired the DBM output to
> > it. Without any antenna on the front end I can tune in the many BC radio
> > stations in the area. They are very strong, and tune with changing the
> > Oscillator frequency.
> >
> > I turned on another transmitter on 7.050 and I can tune this in as
> > well, but the BC signals are much stronger.
> >
> > I have about 12 feet of cable to the power supply. The tuning on
> > the broadcast stations seems fast like they are mixed with the second
> > harmonic of the oscillator.
> >
> > The IF stage will strip off the 900 KHz signal but wonder if this
> > a common problem?
> >
> > --
> > Yours Truly,
> >
> > - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> > http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
At 11:13 PM 3/13/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Heard Wes once tonite bagging an armadillo shell from KQ5U - had to repeat
>his name a couple times, but the QSO went through.
>
>I know he was running the 2n2-40 'cause I heard him send "2w" for his power.
>
>Your rig sounded great here Wes, we could have made a QSO tonite for sure.
>
>Good job - hope there were a lot of 2n2-40's in the hunt tonite. I grabbed
>11 shells myself and had a blast. The 2n2-40 sure is a lot of fun... my
>IC-746 is starting to get lonely!
>
>73,
>
>John, N1QO
I was on for the last 45 minutes of the hunt with my 2N2/40+ set for 2 watts
also. Got 16 of the 20 stations, so the 2N2 MOJO is still working well in
my rig.
Thanks for the reports guys.
Any other 2N2/40 rigs on??
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I found on close inspection that pin 1 of T2 was not connected to
the circuit. Fixing that reduced the broadcast signals to low value and
the TS-50 signal into a dummy load at 5 watts is 599+++. So now back to
getting the Variable Xtal Filter, IF amp and Product Detector built.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/Congrats Karl - way to go. You'll be listening to the recvr in no time!
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 15:08:59 -0700 (MST)
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [2n2-40] FE now works
>
>
> I found on close inspection that pin 1 of T2 was not connected to
> the circuit. Fixing that reduced the broadcast signals to low value and
> the TS-50 signal into a dummy load at 5 watts is 599+++. So now back to
> getting the Variable Xtal Filter, IF amp and Product Detector built.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I built the FE and Mixer Amp upside down! I didn't see that as
possible until the parts were all installed. But I have some wires that
are 5 inches long necessary to connect the parts. It would have been nice
to of had a big picture first, to compare with.
No way am I going to remove all parts and terminals and do it
right. It either works as is or I'll quit.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/Just use some RG-174 coax to connect the gazinta and gazouta signals to the
next blocks. Aside form the drawings in the original QRP magazine and the
wonderful reprint offered by Paul, NA5N, there are a ton of photos of
various guys rigs on the web. Ask John N1QO for the URL of his website.
His were the best as far as clarity goes.
73 de Lee
km4yy
Work is the curse of the drinking classes.
-- Oscar Wilde
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 5:09 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Parts diagram
>
> I built the FE and Mixer Amp upside down! I didn't see that as
> possible until the parts were all installed. But I have some wires that
> are 5 inches long necessary to connect the parts. It would have been nice
> to of had a big picture first, to compare with.
>
> No way am I going to remove all parts and terminals and do it
> right. It either works as is or I'll quit.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Karl,
You could carefully cut the board and make "section modules"! I decided to
do this (build sections on small boards) for my second 2n2-rig. It was
inspired by Jim's original two-tiered "stacked" mods the first time through.
-MAC-
AF4PS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 5:09 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Parts diagram
>
> I built the FE and Mixer Amp upside down! I didn't see that as
> possible until the parts were all installed. But I have some wires that
> are 5 inches long necessary to connect the parts. It would have been nice
> to of had a big picture first, to compare with.
>
> No way am I going to remove all parts and terminals and do it
> right. It either works as is or I'll quit.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Gang,
It would appear that Yahoo! took this group (and every other Yahoo!
group) down for a couple days in order to move their servers. If you
sent mail to the group and DIDN'T get a rejection notice, do not
resend the mail - Yahoo! says the backlog will be processed within a
day or so. If you did get a rejection notice, please resend.
73,
John, N1QO
|
1818|1818|2002-03-17 10:53:28|realbeandip|Number 2 started|Started on 2n2/40+ number 2 last night. I've got the Rx/Tx driver
finished. I'm using as many SMD parts as possible. In the Rx/Tx driver
I've got 2x SMD NPN's, one resistor and one cap. It works! The circuit
is easily half the size of my first effort using leaded parts.
For the NPN's, I'm using the Surface Mount Pad technique and it worked
very well. The resistor was a 1206 sized part - it was large compared
to the 0804 sized .01uF cap - that was difficult. In fact, if you look
at the cap as it's mounted, it almost looks like a little blip of
solder going from the pad to ground, only there is a tiny piece of
rice in the middle of it!
I've got some parts gathering to do before the VFO goes together. I'm
going to use SMD 2n2222's that Brian has and am awaiting a bunch more
SMD resistors and caps.
73,
John, N1QO
|
1819|1818|2002-03-17 11:43:17|Wes Clopton|Re: Number 2 started|Pictures Pictures Pictures
I want to see
Wes
At 10:20 AM 3/17/02, you wrote:
>Started on 2n2/40+ number 2 last night. I've got the Rx/Tx driver
>finished. I'm using as many SMD parts as possible. In the Rx/Tx driver
>I've got 2x SMD NPN's, one resistor and one cap. It works! The circuit
>is easily half the size of my first effort using leaded parts.
>
>For the NPN's, I'm using the Surface Mount Pad technique and it worked
>very well. The resistor was a 1206 sized part - it was large compared
>to the 0804 sized .01uF cap - that was difficult. In fact, if you look
>at the cap as it's mounted, it almost looks like a little blip of
>solder going from the pad to ground, only there is a tiny piece of
>rice in the middle of it!
>
>I've got some parts gathering to do before the VFO goes together. I'm
>going to use SMD 2n2222's that Brian has and am awaiting a bunch more
>SMD resistors and caps.
>
>73,
>
>John, N1QO
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 7:00 AM
To: n0dsp@msn.com
Cc: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Trouble with 2N2-40 transmitter & Yahoo Groups
>There is no L10 in any of my schematics, and C65 is the last of the
output low pass filter capacitors.
I was referring to L10 in the Tx Output LP Filter, this appears to be where I would attach the antenna for the transceiver.... the BNC.
>If these values are indeed correct, then Q22 is burned out too.
Replaced Q22 and now have these voltages.
RECEIVE: Q21 E= .5 mV, B= .673 V, C= 95.7 mV
Q22 E= .5 mV, B= 95.7 mV, C= 13.9 V
TRANSMIT: Q21 E= .5 mV, B= 0 V, C= 13.61 V
Q22 E= 12.9 V, B=13.6 V, C= 13.9 V
>Well my first question is do you have all of the Tx points in the rig connected
together? If so, what do you measure with your ohmmeter from the Tx line
to ground,
Yes they were... They all measured 2.57 k ohms.
>You can replace pot 4 for testing with a 100 ohm resistor.
Done, one end to T13 #4 and the other end to ground.
>Here are the steps to follow to test those stages.
>Apply power through a 1N400X diode only to the Tx local oscillator stage.
>You may have to unsolder its Tx lead, from the rest of the Tx buss to do
>that. Listen in you general coverage receiver for a signal at 4.9152 MHz.
Found it!
>Assuming you can hear a signal at 4.9152 Mhz, retune the receiver to
>7.05 MHz. Key up the LO again, and tune around until you find the mixer
>output signal in the 40 meter band. If you think you've found it, tune
>the VFO to verify that that signal moves with the VFO. If it does,
>then the DB mixer is probably working OK. You may have to put a short
>wire on the gc receiver and lay it near the 2N2/40 to pickup the 7 MHz
>mixer product.
Found it and it moves with the VFO.
>Next, make sure the Tx lead from the LO and the Tx lead from the
>Tx Cascode RF Amp are connected together, and power up the pair by
>applying power through the 1N400X diode. With the gc receiver still
>listening to the 7 MHz signal, tune trimmers TC7 and TC8 for a peaks
>in the 7 MHz signal. There should be two of them on each trimmer as
>it is rotated through a full turn. If you don't get two peaks, then
>the circuits are not going through resonance, and the fixed capacitors
>across the trimmers are either too large or too small. You'll have to
>determine which way by ascertaining where the strongest signal occurs,
>at maximum capacity, or minimum.
I can HEAR the peaks when I tune TC8, but don't think I can HEAR a major difference when tuning TC7. BUT, when I look at it with the scope, I can SEE two peaks with each trimmer. Not sure exactly how to read the values shown by the scope, but after tuning TC7 and TC8, on the 50 mV scale of my scope, I read 3.3 divisions at T13 #4. 165 mV? Does it sound like all is ok so far? Didn't seem to have any problems with the fixed resistor that is standing in for Pot 4 :) No smoke...
>After you get that much working, we'll go on to hooking up the rest
>of the driver and final circuitry. No sense having that active until
>we can get a good signal out of the early stages of the transmitter.
Guess I'll wait to hear from you before going any further. Your directions were very helpful, Jim. Thank you!
>BTW, do you have a scope or RF probe for looking at RF voltages? That
>would help a lot.
Scope... Still trying to understand the scope completely, but can at least look at the sine wave and see changes.
>72 and GL Tom
>Jim, K8IQY
Thank you for your help. I know it takes lots of your time and I do appreciate it VERY much! I guess my problems or lack of experience may help those who follow. :) I have to be ready for the first official 2N2-40 night.
Thanks again!
Tom Little
N0DSPGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 10:06 AM 3/16/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi Guys,
>
>Got up early this AM to post a message to the group, and so far today
>can't bring it up. Maybe problems with Yahoo. I'm sending my question
>direct to you guys, hope that's ok.
>
>My message for the group, when I can post it is that a friend in Denver
>helped me trouble shoot one of my 2N2's and we found that I had the
>windings of T2 reversed. Now all is good on my receiver. After getting
>it home and hooking it up to my 40 meter dipole... WOW!!! very nice
>sounding. The signals are nice and strong!
>
>So now my question and problem. Time to check out the transmit
>side. Sorry guys, I'm lost. With a completed transmitter, what are the
>proper steps to see if it's working. I hooked a wire to the junction of
>R63, C66 and R62 and touched it to the board to ground it (guess this is
>my key).
Yes, that junction is the key line, where you would normally hook up
you key or keyer.
> The receive cuts out, guess that's good, let up and hear the receive
> again. With power to the rig, and the coax connected from the junction
> of L10 and C65 to the back of my general receiver I hear a tone at 4.915.
There is no L10 in any of my schematics, and C65 is the last of the
output low pass filter capacitors. You don't want to be running the
output of the rig into your receiver. If it starts working, your
general coverage receiver will probably have its front-end burned out.
Run the output of the 2N2/40 into a dummy load. When it is putting
out RF, you'll have no problem hearing it on another receiver.
> Not sure if this means any thing as far as the transmit is concerned.
Well it sounds like the receive audio is being muted, which is correct
during transmit.
>
>On receive I have 13.9 volts on the collector of Q22 and 0 volts on the
>emitter and 8.63 v on the base.
8.63 volts on the base isn't correct. It should only be aout 0.2 volts
during receive. It will rise to almost the power supply voltage during
transmit, when the key line is grounded. I'd guess Q21 is bad.
> When I ground the wire connected to the junction of R63, C66 and R62,
> Q22's collector is 13.9 volts the Emitter stays at 0 volts and the base
> (center) goes to 13.9 v.
If these values are indeed correct, then Q22 is burned out too.
> Now the TX line is connected to the emitter (left) of Q22 which I see
> stays at 0 volts either way. So I thought that was the problem, no
> voltage for transmit.
It is.........
> In the book it says to apply power to the TX pads and listen for a
> signal on 7MHz. So I put 13.9 v on the emitter of Q22
Not a good idea to put the voltage directly on the emitter of Q22. You
should lift the Tx line off the emitter if you are going to power up the
Tx bus directly. However, when you do that, you'll not have any muting
in the receiver via the Rx line, as that follows the key line.
> and thought I saw a little smoke from Pot4. Not good... Ok, the book
> says to apply power thru a 1N4004. I put a 1N4004 in line and touch it
> to a different TX junction... the junction of R50, C53 and R47. This
> time lots of smoke from Pot 4. Well, time to stop! and ask for help AGAIN!
Well my first question is do you have all of the Tx points in the rig connected
together? If so, what do you measure with your ohmmeter from the Tx line
to ground, with the red lead from you ohmmeter going to the Tx line, and
the black lead grounded, and no power applied to the rig?
> I figure Pot 4 is toast, think I had it in correctly.
Sure sounds like it, but it also strikes me that you must have that pot
wired into the circuit incorrectly, and it is getting the Tx signal
directly. The RF power generated by the preceeding stages probably
isn't large enough to burn out that pot, unless the Tx Cascode Amplifier
is oscillating by itself, and developing much more power than it normally
would.
> There are three leads, two on one side and one on the other. I figure
> the one by it's self is the wiper... connected it to C54.
Don't surmise. Use your ohmmeter and figure out which lead is which.
> One of the two leads on the other side is grounded and the other is
> connected to T13 #4. I have another Pot 4 to put in but will wait for
> your ideas, if you would be so kind as to offer help.
We're doing that. Hold off on replacing pot4 until the rig is working
correctly up to that point. You can replace pot4 for testing with a
100 ohm resistor. That will leave C54, the 0.01uF coupling capacitor to
the Q17 driver floating, so that none of the output section is producing
RF. We need to get the Tx local oscillator working, along with the SB mixer
and the Tx Cascode amplifier before hooking up the rest of the RF power
generating stages.
Here are the steps to follow to test those stages.
Apply power through a 1N400X diode only to the Tx local oscillator stage.
You may have to unsolder its Tx lead, from the rest of the Tx buss to do
that. Listen in you general coverage receiver for a signal at 4.9152 MHz.
Assuming you can hear a signal at 4.9152 Mhz, retune the receiver to
7.05 MHz. Key up the LO again, and tune around until you find the mixer
output signal in the 40 meter band. If you think you've found it, tune
the VFO to verify that that signal moves with the VFO. If it does,
then the DB mixer is probably working OK. You may have to put a short
wire on the gc receiver and lay it near the 2N2/40 to pickup the 7 MHz
mixer product.
Next, make sure the Tx lead from the LO and the Tx lead from the
Tx Cascode RF Amp are connected together, and power up the pair by
applying power through the 1N400X diode. With the gc receiver still
listening to the 7 MHz signal, tune trimmers TC7 and TC8 for a peaks
in the 7 MHz signal. There should be two of them on each trimmer as
it is rotated through a full turn. If you don't get two peaks, then
the circuits are not going through resonance, and the fixed capacitors
across the trimmers are either too large or too small. You'll have to
determine which way by ascertaining where the strongest signal occurs,
at maximum capacity, or minimum.
After you get that much working, we'll go on to hooking up the rest
of the driver and final circuitry. No sense having that active until
we can get a good signal out of the early stages of the transmitter.
BTW, do you have a scope or RF probe for looking at RF voltages? That
would help a lot.
72 and GL Tom
Jim, K8IQY
Jim and All,
I bet I found out why I fried Pot 4. I see that I have the TX hooked up to the Pot 4 side of C54 instead of the junction of R52, C56 and T14 #2 where it is suppose to be. Guess I put 13.9 Volts where it shouldn't be. I'm going to fix this problem and check over the rest of the Tx RF Driver, Tx Output LP Filter and Tx RF Final Amp. Do you think this blunder has affected any other components?
Thanks!
Tom
N0DSPGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download :
http://explorer.msn.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
OK, so I didn't wait...
I figured, things look good up to pot 4 and I found that I had the Tx
line hooked up wrong, so lets hook it up right and continue.. I'm
Sooo close! So here is what I did... (as everyone asks
themselves...doesn't Tom have anything else to do?)...
I put Pot 4 back in. Hooked up the Tx line to the right places
throughout Tx. I didn't have C67 or C68 hooked up, as the story
progresses let me know if that was a mistake. I re-checked the
transmit section against the schematics... looks good (I think)
Applied power to rig, hooked my scope up to the non-grounded side of
C65 (this is where I have the center conductor of my antenna
attached, the coax sheild is grounded to the board) The scope is
flatline, because I'm in receive. Attach a dummy load to the BNC.
Tune the 2N2 and general receiver to 7.040 using a signal generator.
Key 2N2, at see the scope jump up nicely!! Can't remember now what
scale I was on with the scope, but I think I saw a 400 mV signal on
the scope (guessing here). I can hear my transmit signal on the
general receiver too!! Seems loud! Keyed the 2N2 for a couple
seconds a few times... Feeling REAL good now!! Hmmm, thought I saw
the signal on the scope getting smaller toward the end of the key
up. Keyed it again for a few seconds and did see it getting
smaller. Tried one more time and saw nothing on the scale I was
using. REAL BUMMER!!
As best I can see, or relay to you guys, here are some observations
with the scope. From lack of knowledge, I may mis-state a reading,
but hopefully you will know what I mean. (Hope you are not sick of
hearing from me by now)
With 2N2 keyed I see the following:
Before Pot 4 - 100mW
After Pot 4 - 100mW (Pot 4 is fully clockwise)
After C54 - 100 mW
T14 #1 - 2500 mV (Collector? of Q17) (is this 2.5V?)
T14 #4 - 500 mV (signal now looks like a square wave, flat top)
Bus strip, Base of Q18, Q19 and Q20 - 500mV (still flat top)
Bus strip, Collector of Q18, Q19 and Q20 - 12 mV (no longer flat top)
At C65 - 12 mV (Same as collector Bus)
Houston, I think we have a problem...
Here is a question that comes to mind. Is the Emitter and Collector
of the metal 2N2222's opposite of the plastic? I'm thinking they are
and think I have them in as if they are. I have them installed like
they appear in the 2N2-40 book, as far as their orientation. Tab
away from me, Emitter then points left to the resistors and
capacitors (ei C60 & R59, etc). Collector (right side) to the bus
strip that has the connection over to the LP filter and antenna
conection.
I can still hear my signal on the general receiver, but weak. By the
way, the tone in my headphones when I key up is EXTREMELY loud. Now
I have reinstalled capacitors on the key and receive line.
I think I'm good thru a small section of the rig, so I'm not giving
up now. Does it sound like my metal 2M2222's are in right? What do
you guys think I should do?? (maybe forget it and go eat corned beef
and drink green beer??) I guess my spirits are higher, because I
figure, it must be one, maybe two more stupid mistakes and I should
be done!!
I'm anxious to hear what you think.
Happy Saint Patricks Day to you all!!
Tom
N0DSP
ps... by now I'm WAY beyond being afraid to ask stupid questions!
|
1824|1823|2002-03-17 18:49:39|n0dsp|The transmit saga continues... :0)|OK, so I didn't wait...
I figured, things look good up to pot 4 and I found that I had the Tx
line hooked up wrong, so lets hook it up right and continue.. I'm
Sooo close! So here is what I did... (as everyone asks
themselves...doesn't Tom have anything else to do?)...
I put Pot 4 back in. Hooked up the Tx line to the right places
throughout Tx. I didn't have C67 or C68 hooked up, as the story
progresses let me know if that was a mistake. I re-checked the
transmit section against the schematics... looks good (I think)
Applied power to rig, hooked my scope up to the non-grounded side of
C65 (this is where I have the center conductor of my antenna
attached, the coax sheild is grounded to the board) The scope is
flatline, because I'm in receive. Attach a dummy load to the BNC.
Tune the 2N2 and general receiver to 7.040 using a signal generator.
Key 2N2, at see the scope jump up nicely!! Can't remember now what
scale I was on with the scope, but I think I saw a 400 mV signal on
the scope (guessing here). I can hear my transmit signal on the
general receiver too!! Seems loud! Keyed the 2N2 for a couple
seconds a few times... Feeling REAL good now!! Hmmm, thought I saw
the signal on the scope getting smaller toward the end of the key
up. Keyed it again for a few seconds and did see it getting
smaller. Tried one more time and saw nothing on the scale I was
using. REAL BUMMER!!
As best I can see, or relay to you guys, here are some observations
with the scope. From lack of knowledge, I may mis-state a reading,
but hopefully you will know what I mean. (Hope you are not sick of
hearing from me by now)
With 2N2 keyed I see the following:
Before Pot 4 - 100mW
After Pot 4 - 100mW (Pot 4 is fully clockwise)
After C54 - 100 mW
T14 #1 - 2500 mV (Collector? of Q17) (is this 2.5V?)
T14 #4 - 500 mV (signal now looks like a square wave, flat top)
Bus strip, Base of Q18, Q19 and Q20 - 500mV (still flat top)
Bus strip, Collector of Q18, Q19 and Q20 - 12 mV (no longer flat top)
At C65 - 12 mV (Same as collector Bus)
Houston, I think we have a problem...
Here is a question that comes to mind. Is the Emitter and Collector
of the metal 2N2222's opposite of the plastic? I'm thinking they are
and think I have them in as if they are. I have them installed like
they appear in the 2N2-40 book, as far as their orientation. Tab
away from me, Emitter then points left to the resistors and
capacitors (ei C60 & R59, etc). Collector (right side) to the bus
strip that has the connection over to the LP filter and antenna
conection.
I can still hear my signal on the general receiver, but weak. By the
way, the tone in my headphones when I key up is EXTREMELY loud. Now
I have reinstalled capacitors on the key and receive line.
I think I'm good thru a small section of the rig, so I'm not giving
up now. Does it sound like my metal 2M2222's are in right? What do
you guys think I should do?? (maybe forget it and go eat corned beef
and drink green beer??) I guess my spirits are higher, because I
figure, it must be one, maybe two more stupid mistakes and I should
be done!!
I'm anxious to hear what you think.
Happy Saint Patricks Day to you all!!
Tom
N0DSP
ps... by now I'm WAY beyond being afraid to ask stupid questions!
|
1825|1825|2002-03-17 19:03:33|Karl F. Larsen|Reciever done but|Well got the reciver done almost but have either a bad xister or a
bias problem cuzz the audio transformer got warm.
Going to give it a couple of days off while I get other chores
done.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/At 11:25 AM 3/17/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Jim and All,
>
>I bet I found out why I fried Pot 4. I see that I have the TX hooked up
>to the Pot 4 side of C54
Oooops!! :-)
>instead of the junction of R52, C56 and T14 #2 where it is suppose to
>be. Guess I put 13.9 Volts where it shouldn't be.
Yup....you sure did. That's why is was smoking, and blew out Q22.
> I'm going to fix this problem and check over the rest of the Tx RF
> Driver, Tx Output LP Filter and Tx RF Final Amp. Do you think this
> blunder has affected any other components?
Should not have.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
At 10:47 PM 3/17/02 +0000, you wrote:
>OK, so I didn't wait...
I don't blame you......I wouldn't either.
>I figured, things look good up to pot 4 and I found that I had the Tx
>line hooked up wrong, so lets hook it up right and continue.. I'm
>Sooo close! So here is what I did... (as everyone asks
>themselves...doesn't Tom have anything else to do?)...
>
>I put Pot 4 back in. Hooked up the Tx line to the right places
>throughout Tx. I didn't have C67 or C68 hooked up, as the story
>progresses let me know if that was a mistake.
No...those aren't a big deal until we get the rig running right.
> I re-checked the
>transmit section against the schematics... looks good (I think)
>
>Applied power to rig, hooked my scope up to the non-grounded side of
>C65 (this is where I have the center conductor of my antenna
>attached, the coax sheild is grounded to the board) The scope is
>flatline, because I'm in receive. Attach a dummy load to the BNC.
>Tune the 2N2 and general receiver to 7.040 using a signal generator.
>Key 2N2, at see the scope jump up nicely!! Can't remember now what
>scale I was on with the scope, but I think I saw a 400 mV signal on
>the scope (guessing here). I can hear my transmit signal on the
>general receiver too!! Seems loud! Keyed the 2N2 for a couple
>seconds a few times... Feeling REAL good now!! Hmmm, thought I saw
>the signal on the scope getting smaller toward the end of the key
>up. Keyed it again for a few seconds and did see it getting
>smaller. Tried one more time and saw nothing on the scale I was
>using. REAL BUMMER!!
>
>As best I can see, or relay to you guys, here are some observations
>with the scope. From lack of knowledge, I may mis-state a reading,
>but hopefully you will know what I mean. (Hope you are not sick of
>hearing from me by now)
>
>With 2N2 keyed I see the following:
>
>Before Pot 4 - 100mW
If this is the collector of Q16, you should be seeing 4 volts
peak to peak.
>After Pot 4 - 100mW (Pot 4 is fully clockwise)
At least 1 volt peak to peak with Pot 4 wide open.
>After C54 - 100 mW
OK....no losses through C54, that's right.
>T14 #1 - 2500 mV (Collector? of Q17) (is this 2.5V?)
Yes, that's 2.5 volts. But it should be more like 10 to 12 volts
peak to peak, maybe more with pot 4 wide open.
>T14 #4 - 500 mV (signal now looks like a square wave, flat top)
About right for the signal level you have on the collector of Q17, but
should be more like 2 volts peak to peak when you have the required
drive.
>Bus strip, Base of Q18, Q19 and Q20 - 500mV (still flat top)
Base should be approximately the same as the output of T14-4
>Bus strip, Collector of Q18, Q19 and Q20 - 12 mV (no longer flat top)
>At C65 - 12 mV (Same as collector Bus)
Do you have Vcc on the collectors of Q18-T20 transistors? What you
are seeing sounds like feedthrough from the base to collectors, when
the collectors aren't power up.
>Houston, I think we have a problem...
>
>Here is a question that comes to mind. Is the Emitter and Collector
>of the metal 2N2222's opposite of the plastic?
With the plastic PN2222, with the flat side facing you, and the leads
down, they are emitter, base, collector going from left to right.
With the 2N2222A metal TO-18 case, with the lead pointing at you, and
the center lead up, so the 3 leads form a triangle, they are emitter
base, and collector, going from left to right.
> I'm thinking they are
>and think I have them in as if they are. I have them installed like
>they appear in the 2N2-40 book, as far as their orientation.
I've never checked that with a real transistor to see if the drawing
is correct. Maybe I should do that sometime! :-)
> Tab
>away from me, Emitter then points left to the resistors and
>capacitors (ei C60 & R59, etc). Collector (right side) to the bus
>strip that has the connection over to the LP filter and antenna
>conection.
>
>I can still hear my signal on the general receiver, but weak. By the
>way, the tone in my headphones when I key up is EXTREMELY loud.
That can be fixed by changing the size of the resistor across the
2N7000 mute switch. Don't worry about it at the moment, we have bigger
problems to solve yet.
> Now
>I have reinstalled capacitors on the key and receive line.
>
>I think I'm good thru a small section of the rig, so I'm not giving
>up now. Does it sound like my metal 2M2222's are in right?
Don't know, but I've given you the info so you can check them. Make
sure you have 13.8 volts on the collectors when the rig is powered up.
Even when it is in the receive mode, the collectors of the final transistors
have power.
> What do
>you guys think I should do?? (maybe forget it and go eat corned beef
>and drink green beer??)
Only if you are really Irish.
> I guess my spirits are higher, because I
>figure, it must be one, maybe two more stupid mistakes and I should
>be done!!
>
>I'm anxious to hear what you think.
I think you are getting real close.
72 and keep plugging away. You are making progress.
Jim, K8IQY
At 05:04 PM 3/17/02 -0700, you wrote:
> Well got the reciver done almost but have either a bad xister or a
>bias problem cuzz the audio transformer got warm.
Yup....something not correct if the audio output transformer is getting
warm. The idle current on that push pull amp is quite low; about 20 ma
if I remember correctly. Certainly not enough to cause any heating.
>
>
> Going to give it a couple of days off while I get other chores
>done.
Sometimes a good idea.
72 and thanks for the report,
Jim, K8IQY
> Here is a question that comes to mind. Is the Emitter and Collector
> of the metal 2N2222's opposite of the plastic?
When you hold the metal transistors upside down, start at the tab and it
goes clockwise emitter, base, collector. The plastic ones have the three
leads in a line, and each lead is identified in fine print on the
transistor's side.
I had a similar fear building my 2N2-40 driver and final amplifier. I don't
have my radio here now, so I can't relate to your description.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
That happened to me also. The first time it was because of a short. Check
the audio amplifier stages with a multimeter. That is how I found my
problem.
73 de Lee
km4yy
As soon as men decide that all means are permitted to fight an evil,
then their good becomes indistinguishable from the evil that they set
out to destroy.
--Christopher Dawson, The Judgment of Nations, 1942
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 7:04 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Reciever done but
>
> Well got the reciver done almost but have either a bad xister or a
> bias problem cuzz the audio transformer got warm.
>
> Going to give it a couple of days off while I get other chores
> done.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Karl,
Make sure you -don't- have the transistors installed like it shows in the
Paul Harden illustrations (flat sides facing each other). That is
incorrect. The flat sides should be facing the same direction with the
collectors toward the transformer. Good luck.
73.......Steve Smith, WB6TNL
Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.This is to Jim Kortge K8IQY. What I have to build a 2N2/40 radio
is EVERYTHING on your web page. I do web pages and so I just copied your
web page to my computer. The *.jpg images are correct because the writing
on the page is readable right to left. In the picture is footprint that
you say must contain all the components.
Being American and writing English for the most part, I lined up
my board so it has the section I'm building at the bottom where I can
reach it. I start on the left end and build until I'm done at the right
end.
I expect I built the Oscillator, Front End and IF unit backwards,
but there is nothing on your web page that allows me to see this. In the
paper you sent to the QRP Digest you have a drawing of the entire board. A
friend has this and when I looked at it my error was obvious.
Jim, you need to make that drawing a cornerstone of your web
presentation. It should be the first thing you download. Or better yet
make it part of a .pdf package that a guy can d/l from your page. The data
on the 2N2/40+ prints far more clearly than the .jpg pictures on my
system.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/Very strange... there are at least 32 of us who did the proper research and
didn't have any problem with figuring out the layout. There are pictures
all over the news group, an article in QRP and a reprint booklet dedicated
to the 2N2-40.
Please don't throw any stones at Jim. Without his efforts you wouldn't have
had even a chance to get it right.
de Lee,
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2002 8:03 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Big Fault
>
> This is to Jim Kortge K8IQY. What I have to build a 2N2/40 radio
> is EVERYTHING on your web page. I do web pages and so I just copied your
> web page to my computer. The *.jpg images are correct because the writing
> on the page is readable right to left. In the picture is footprint that
> you say must contain all the components.
>
> Being American and writing English for the most part, I lined up
> my board so it has the section I'm building at the bottom where I can
> reach it. I start on the left end and build until I'm done at the right
> end.
>
> I expect I built the Oscillator, Front End and IF unit backwards,
> but there is nothing on your web page that allows me to see this. In the
> paper you sent to the QRP Digest you have a drawing of the entire board. A
> friend has this and when I looked at it my error was obvious.
>
> Jim, you need to make that drawing a cornerstone of your web
> presentation. It should be the first thing you download. Or better yet
> make it part of a .pdf package that a guy can d/l from your page. The data
> on the 2N2/40+ prints far more clearly than the .jpg pictures on my
> system.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Karl, The 2n2-40 radio is not a kit or product of fixed proportion
There are a number of versions but the latest one, the "2n2-40
plus" is the version that grew on the Group Build page. There
isn't a board layout to follow. You have to think ahead and build from the
middle out . We all tried to use the original plans to model our layout
from. There is a lot of good information in the threads on the page.
Wes W3ERU
At 09:20 PM 3/17/02, you wrote:
>Very strange... there are at least 32 of us who did the proper research and
>didn't have any problem with figuring out the layout. There are pictures
>all over the news group, an article in QRP and a reprint booklet dedicated
>to the 2N2-40.
>
>Please don't throw any stones at Jim. Without his efforts you wouldn't have
>had even a chance to get it right.
>
>de Lee,
>KM4YY
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Sorry Karl,
I have to agree with the others. The information is all here for us
to figure out. The info is posted as clearly as it possibly can be.
I spent hours looking at the pictures that others had posted, to do
my best to build it right, hopeing not to mess up. The only problems
I have had were created by ME. I did not pay close enough attention
or would not have made the mistakes. I can not blame anyone, except
for ME. I and we are lucky enough to have a person like Jim that is
willing to spend HOURS and HOURS helping us work thru our mistakes.
He has nothing to gain, except for the fact that he likes teaching
and helping others learn electronics. If he gets grief for helping,
I know he has better things to do with his time. Without Jim's help
I would have been dead in the water a long time ago. I can not
express how much I appreciate the time that Jim and others have put
toward helping me get a working rig.
I'm not there yet, but I know help is right here. I can understand
getting frustrated, Karl. I have been frustrated and probably will
be more before I'm done. But I decided to do this and so did a lot
of us. It will be a great accomplishment for me when I'm done, no
matter how many times I ask for help. Karl, please don't look for
blame... ask for help. Have fun.. learn more than you knew before.
What a fantastic group of guys we have right here. Just ask for
help...
I hope to work you 2N2-40 to 2N2-40 sometime soon, and if not it
won't be anyones fault but ours....
I have a copy of AA0ZZ's parts layout and hook up in an envelope
addressed to you, it will go out on Monday.
Best Regards,
Tom Little
N0DSP
ps... soon to have two working 2N2-40's... I can feel it. (or that
feeling could be from the Corn Beef, Cabbage and Beer!) :o)
|
1836|1823|2002-03-17 22:34:32|Karl F. Larsen|Re: The transmit saga continues... :0)|Hi Tom your ahead of me. I have a device that checks transistors and fets
and diodes and tells you which wire is collector, base and emitter. I have
a metel one in fact let me check it.
The center is the base. The wire farthest away from the tab is the
collector. Hope this helps.
On Sun, 17 Mar 2002, n0dsp wrote:
> OK, so I didn't wait...
>
> I figured, things look good up to pot 4 and I found that I had the Tx
> line hooked up wrong, so lets hook it up right and continue.. I'm
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
Karl,
If you're new to manhattan construction (as many of us are), you will need
more help then is offered on Jim's web page. A number of us ordered the
reprint of the QRPp that featured the 2n2-40 from Paul Harden, it's very
helpful when it comes to figuring out which way is up....
Having said that, there are numerous errors in the QRPp reprint. Jim's web
page has an errata sheet. There are numerous pictures on the Yahoo! site
about how the toroids are wound to make transformers, there is a lot of info
in the message archives. The 2n2-40 is an open book, there have been
improvements and modifications.
Ask here before building if you think you're unsure. Look at the closeups on
my website. Look at the overview shots on Jim's website. A number of us have
successfully built this radio and I know you can too.
It can be frustrating, believe me I know. I had a working rig, and then
troubleshot myself in the foot so bad I ended up having to send the radio to
Jim for help. It's a long road, but the journey is worth it.
Hang in there Karl!
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 06:03:21 -0700 (MST)
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [2n2-40] Big Fault
>
>
> This is to Jim Kortge K8IQY. What I have to build a 2N2/40 radio
> is EVERYTHING on your web page. I do web pages and so I just copied your
> web page to my computer. The *.jpg images are correct because the writing
> on the page is readable right to left. In the picture is footprint that
> you say must contain all the components.
>
> Being American and writing English for the most part, I lined up
> my board so it has the section I'm building at the bottom where I can
> reach it. I start on the left end and build until I'm done at the right
> end.
>
> I expect I built the Oscillator, Front End and IF unit backwards,
> but there is nothing on your web page that allows me to see this. In the
> paper you sent to the QRP Digest you have a drawing of the entire board. A
> friend has this and when I looked at it my error was obvious.
>
> Jim, you need to make that drawing a cornerstone of your web
> presentation. It should be the first thing you download. Or better yet
> make it part of a .pdf package that a guy can d/l from your page. The data
> on the 2N2/40+ prints far more clearly than the .jpg pictures on my
> system.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hi Lee, not throwing stones. But I was not aware of how to get the the
article in QRP. Still are not.
On Sun, 17 Mar 2002, Lee Mairs wrote:
> Very strange... there are at least 32 of us who did the proper research and
> didn't have any problem with figuring out the layout. There are pictures
> all over the news group, an article in QRP and a reprint booklet dedicated
> to the 2N2-40.
>
> Please don't throw any stones at Jim. Without his efforts you wouldn't have
> had even a chance to get it right.
>
> de Lee,
> KM4YY
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2002 8:03 AM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Big Fault
>
>
> >
> > This is to Jim Kortge K8IQY. What I have to build a 2N2/40 radio
> > is EVERYTHING on your web page. I do web pages and so I just copied your
> > web page to my computer. The *.jpg images are correct because the writing
> > on the page is readable right to left. In the picture is footprint that
> > you say must contain all the components.
> >
> > Being American and writing English for the most part, I lined up
> > my board so it has the section I'm building at the bottom where I can
> > reach it. I start on the left end and build until I'm done at the right
> > end.
> >
> > I expect I built the Oscillator, Front End and IF unit backwards,
> > but there is nothing on your web page that allows me to see this. In the
> > paper you sent to the QRP Digest you have a drawing of the entire board. A
> > friend has this and when I looked at it my error was obvious.
> >
> > Jim, you need to make that drawing a cornerstone of your web
> > presentation. It should be the first thing you download. Or better yet
> > make it part of a .pdf package that a guy can d/l from your page. The data
> > on the 2N2/40+ prints far more clearly than the .jpg pictures on my
> > system.
> >
> > --
> > Yours Truly,
> >
> > - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> > http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
This morning after a lot of trouble, mine, getting the audio
section done, applied power and the audio transformer got hot. Checked
this morning and one side of the transformer was grounded by long wire
strands to ground. Fixed that and the audio stage is working.
No noise yet from 40 meters but still have to mount 2 pots and
then do a test on the if amplifier. Back to work.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/John, I have been told to order the paper from Paul Harden which is a good
idea, but how do you do that? How much is it? What do you ask Paul for?
What is Paul's address?
On Sun, 17 Mar 2002, John Wagner wrote:
> Karl,
>
> If you're new to manhattan construction (as many of us are), you will need
> more help then is offered on Jim's web page. A number of us ordered the
> reprint of the QRPp that featured the 2n2-40 from Paul Harden, it's very
> helpful when it comes to figuring out which way is up....
>
> Having said that, there are numerous errors in the QRPp reprint. Jim's web
> page has an errata sheet. There are numerous pictures on the Yahoo! site
> about how the toroids are wound to make transformers, there is a lot of info
> in the message archives. The 2n2-40 is an open book, there have been
> improvements and modifications.
>
> Ask here before building if you think you're unsure. Look at the closeups on
> my website. Look at the overview shots on Jim's website. A number of us have
> successfully built this radio and I know you can too.
>
> It can be frustrating, believe me I know. I had a working rig, and then
> troubleshot myself in the foot so bad I ended up having to send the radio to
> Jim for help. It's a long road, but the journey is worth it.
>
> Hang in there Karl!
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 06:03:21 -0700 (MST)
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Big Fault
> >
> >
> > This is to Jim Kortge K8IQY. What I have to build a 2N2/40 radio
> > is EVERYTHING on your web page. I do web pages and so I just copied your
> > web page to my computer. The *.jpg images are correct because the writing
> > on the page is readable right to left. In the picture is footprint that
> > you say must contain all the components.
> >
> > Being American and writing English for the most part, I lined up
> > my board so it has the section I'm building at the bottom where I can
> > reach it. I start on the left end and build until I'm done at the right
> > end.
> >
> > I expect I built the Oscillator, Front End and IF unit backwards,
> > but there is nothing on your web page that allows me to see this. In the
> > paper you sent to the QRP Digest you have a drawing of the entire board. A
> > friend has this and when I looked at it my error was obvious.
> >
> > Jim, you need to make that drawing a cornerstone of your web
> > presentation. It should be the first thing you download. Or better yet
> > make it part of a .pdf package that a guy can d/l from your page. The data
> > on the 2N2/40+ prints far more clearly than the .jpg pictures on my
> > system.
> >
> > --
> > Yours Truly,
> >
> > - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> > http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/message/22 Down near the bottom of the message is info on how to order the book from
Paul. *DO* get the errata sheet from Jim's website, it is critical! Also
note that the book covers the original 2n2-40, not the 2n2-40+ - it is still
very useful for figuring out the parts layout (i.e. what direction to build)
and in testing.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 04:19:45 -0700 (MST)
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Big Fault
>
>
> John, I have been told to order the paper from Paul Harden which is a good
> idea, but how do you do that? How much is it? What do you ask Paul for?
> What is Paul's address?
>
> On Sun, 17 Mar 2002, John Wagner wrote:
|
1842|1842|2002-03-18 09:36:11|Tom Little|Re: Hope|Karl,
Thats great! It's strange how you look and look but don't see. Then all of a sudden, there it is. One of mine has been finished for more that 6 weeks and just yesterday I saw that I had the Tx line hooked up wrong. Keep at it, don't get too frustrated. We will both get there!
The reprint of the QRPp article is from Paul Harden's printing company. If you have trouble finding info on it, let me know. The address may be in some of the very early messages on the 2N2-40 Yahoo site.
Keep at it Karl!!
GL
Tom
N0DSP
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl F. Larsen
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 4:16 AM
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [2n2-40] Hope
This morning after a lot of trouble, mine, getting the audio
section done, applied power and the audio transformer got hot. Checked
this morning and one side of the transformer was grounded by long wire
strands to ground. Fixed that and the audio stage is working.
No noise yet from 40 meters but still have to mount 2 pots and
then do a test on the if amplifier. Back to work.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Karl,
I second John's post about getting the book. You should also set
aside a few hours and go thru the posted messages here, there is a
wealth of information about the mistakes we ALL made and the fixes.
With the exception of the front end sequence and the VBW filter, you can
pretty much use the pad layouts in the book. It also has great
troubleshooting instructions and alignment procedures. Keep plugging
away at it, as it is well worth the time and effort! Now, I'm back to
the bench!!!!
72 es good building!!!
Dennis - WB0WAO
2N2/40+ #26
|
1844|1844|2002-03-18 11:00:27|Craig Johnson|2N2222 parts layout|Hi gang,
I haven't posted for quite a while but I am still reading along with
great interest.
I sympathize about the Karl and others regarding the parts layout.
I believe it gets even worse if you try to go back to Paul Harden's
original book. His layout is "upside down" from Jim's latest
layout, and some sections have been regrouped. Also Jim has
redesigned some sections and renamed many of the parts. This can
be really confusing.
My attempt to resolve this and also to help others is found in 4 files
posted in the "Files" section of the 2N2222-group in Yahoo.
(Directory listed as AA0ZZ schematic and layout.)
First, I have a redrawn schematic. I did this because I like to see
the schematic all at once, if possible. I drew the circuit using
CircuitMaker, and the resulting diagram is posted.
Second, since many people do not have CircuitMaker, I have moved
the drawing into a DOC file for Microsoft Word. Printing may be
a problem, but it is at least viewable. Someone must know how to do
a multi-page print.
Third, I have a Microsoft PowerPoint layout of the pads. This is a
full-size drawing, so all you have to do is print it and lay it on your
circuit board. Then mark through the paper to your board for
the pad layout.
Fourth, the parts layout, also in Microsoft PowerPoint. This shows
all the parts and all the interconnecting wires in several colors.
(I have also posted a revision history file, which shows differences from
my very first posting before I actually built it.)
This layout DOES WORK - I have one working.
Now some notes. This circuit and layout uses the "original" 2N2222
mute circuit which is not as good as the redesigned versions that Jim
has posted. However, I wanted it this way to stay "pure" as to the
original design contest rules - to make the best radio possible using
only 22 of the 2N2222 transistors. (Diodes don't count .) The result
does have a keying "thump" problem in my version but I still hope to
work it out. I am working on redesign of the mute using Spice models
(with Jim's help).
If anyone is unable to get the files from Yahoo, let me know and I will
send them to you.
73,
Craig, AAØZZ
|
1845|1832|2002-03-18 11:53:26|Lee Mairs|Re: Big Fault|The best thing you can do is download everyone of John's photos of his rig.
He did it section by section. You don't have to follow his directions, but
they will give you a big help in getting off to a good start.
Glad you find the "hot audio transformer" source. That was exactly the same
thing that happened to me. BTW. it happened twice! During the last stages
of transmitter construction, a small chunk of wire snipped off a flew to the
exact same spot. There is a Ph.D. topic there - Magnetic Properties of
Copper Wire in the Presence of Push-Pull Amplifiers"...
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Whoever called it necking was a poor judge of anatomy.
--Groucho Marx
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Big Fault
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/message/22
>
> Down near the bottom of the message is info on how to order the book from
> Paul. *DO* get the errata sheet from Jim's website, it is critical! Also
> note that the book covers the original 2n2-40, not the 2n2-40+ - it is
still
> very useful for figuring out the parts layout (i.e. what direction to
build)
> and in testing.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 04:19:45 -0700 (MST)
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Big Fault
> >
> >
> > John, I have been told to order the paper from Paul Harden which is a
good
> > idea, but how do you do that? How much is it? What do you ask Paul for?
> > What is Paul's address?
> >
> > On Sun, 17 Mar 2002, John Wagner wrote:
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Thanks Craig for sending me those. I'm about to convert my Yaesu FT-817
into a signal generator. It will hook to my receiver with a 100 DB pad
that's adjustable. Hope it works...
On Mon, 18 Mar 2002, Craig Johnson wrote:
> Hi gang,
>
> I haven't posted for quite a while but I am still reading along with
> great interest.
>
> I sympathize about the Karl and others regarding the parts layout.
> I believe it gets even worse if you try to go back to Paul Harden's
> original book. His layout is "upside down" from Jim's latest
> layout, and some sections have been regrouped. Also Jim has
> redesigned some sections and renamed many of the parts. This can
> be really confusing.
>
> My attempt to resolve this and also to help others is found in 4 files
> posted in the "Files" section of the 2N2222-group in Yahoo.
> (Directory listed as AA0ZZ schematic and layout.)
>
> First, I have a redrawn schematic. I did this because I like to see
> the schematic all at once, if possible. I drew the circuit using
> CircuitMaker, and the resulting diagram is posted.
>
> Second, since many people do not have CircuitMaker, I have moved
> the drawing into a DOC file for Microsoft Word. Printing may be
> a problem, but it is at least viewable. Someone must know how to do
> a multi-page print.
>
> Third, I have a Microsoft PowerPoint layout of the pads. This is a
> full-size drawing, so all you have to do is print it and lay it on your
> circuit board. Then mark through the paper to your board for
> the pad layout.
>
> Fourth, the parts layout, also in Microsoft PowerPoint. This shows
> all the parts and all the interconnecting wires in several colors.
>
> (I have also posted a revision history file, which shows differences from
> my very first posting before I actually built it.)
>
> This layout DOES WORK - I have one working.
>
> Now some notes. This circuit and layout uses the "original" 2N2222
> mute circuit which is not as good as the redesigned versions that Jim
> has posted. However, I wanted it this way to stay "pure" as to the
> original design contest rules - to make the best radio possible using
> only 22 of the 2N2222 transistors. (Diodes don't count .) The result
> does have a keying "thump" problem in my version but I still hope to
> work it out. I am working on redesign of the mute using Spice models
> (with Jim's help).
>
> If anyone is unable to get the files from Yahoo, let me know and I will
> send them to you.
>
> 73,
> Craig, AAØZZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
Hee Hee, glad I'm not the only one...:-)
On Mon, 18 Mar 2002, Lee Mairs wrote:
> The best thing you can do is download everyone of John's photos of his rig.
> He did it section by section. You don't have to follow his directions, but
> they will give you a big help in getting off to a good start.
>
> Glad you find the "hot audio transformer" source. That was exactly the same
> thing that happened to me. BTW. it happened twice! During the last stages
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
Having fun testing this morning. I have a variable attenuator that
has 90 DB of attenuation. I put that on my 817 radio with the rf out the
front port, and power set to the lowest possible level.
Then set my Kenwood TS-50 up as a receiver for 4.915 MHz and put
it on the output of the Front end. Then after turning off the BFO, I tuned
in the weak signal from my attenuator on 7.038 MHz and adjusted the output
so I could adjust the 3 trimmer caps. They did peak nice and that stage
is, as expected doing fine, and is tuned up to a 50 ohm load.
Then moved the reciver to the output of the if amp and nothing!
Then back through the stages and I see signal at the output of Q5 but it
gets lost in the crystal filter circuit. After lunch and a nap, I will
trouble shoot this problem.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/With the signal generator set quite high at the antenna jack, I
was able to put a signal I can see with the reciver clear through the
crystal filter. But at the transformer T8 I was loosing a lot of signal!
I removed the tunable diodes and even more comes through the
crystal filter. I re-wired the T8 and it was a small change but a HUGE
improvement in the gain of the last if amp stage. That in turn makes a big
signal at the Product Detector. But it doen't seem to be working. I need I
think to look hard at that transformer too. It looks right to me know.
The local oscillator signal is very large and I can see it on the
Product Detector and it gets squared up by the diodes. Very little gets
through the 4.7 Ufd cap to the audio.
I put a 2 kc audio signal through the 4.7 Ufd cap and it was quite
load and sounded a bit distorted. Might still be an audio problem but it
does at least work.
Even with a big signal at the antenna input I get nothing through
the receiver to the speaker. I think the Product Detector is just not
working.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/I understand there are some pictures or drawings somewhere of all
the toriod coils. I looked at both the yahoo pages and Jim's web page and
could find nothing. Perhaps I'm blind.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/Make sure the tuning diodes are correctly oriented.
The product detector is one of those trifilars - triple check! Same with the
diode orientation.
Also, there is a "Joe's Quicky" audio oscillator on the NJQRP site,
http://www.njqrp.org/ - look for the "Joe's" link. I found invaluable in
troubleshooting the audio amp.
Another thing to look at is the mute switch and make triple sure it's wired
correctly.
Good luck, sounds like you're close!
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:13:29 -0700 (MST)
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [2n2-40] Testing #1
>
>
> With the signal generator set quite high at the antenna jack, I
> was able to put a signal I can see with the reciver clear through the
> crystal filter. But at the transformer T8 I was loosing a lot of signal!
>
> I removed the tunable diodes and even more comes through the
> crystal filter. I re-wired the T8 and it was a small change but a HUGE
> improvement in the gain of the last if amp stage. That in turn makes a big
> signal at the Product Detector. But it doen't seem to be working. I need I
> think to look hard at that transformer too. It looks right to me know.
>
> The local oscillator signal is very large and I can see it on the
> Product Detector and it gets squared up by the diodes. Very little gets
> through the 4.7 Ufd cap to the audio.
>
> I put a 2 kc audio signal through the 4.7 Ufd cap and it was quite
> load and sounded a bit distorted. Might still be an audio problem but it
> does at least work.
>
> Even with a big signal at the antenna input I get nothing through
> the receiver to the speaker. I think the Product Detector is just not
> working.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Craig and all;
I downloaded the student version of CircuitMaker to check it out. Wow, that
is neat! Up to now I'd just messed around with Spice on linux and on my mac,
but this thing is like SuperSpice++, even I can use it! Only problem is the
"student version" is limited to 50 parts, and the "real" version costs
$999!!! I don't think I'll be ponying up a grand for ANY PC software anytime
soon. Yes, I realize if you're an actual working EE that a grand is peanuts
for the company to buy some good design software, but for a guy slobbering
parts together in his basement, that's outa-sight!
The student version doesn't seem to like Craig's layout, probably too many
pieces? I tried to print the Word version of the schematic, but it's too
small to be useful (and I would like an all-in-one schematic.
Any thoughts on how to:
Load the file Craig created in the student version of CM?
Blow up the schematic on the word file so it takes a full page in landscape
layout?
Thanks gang (and thanks Craig!).
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Craig Johnson" <cbjohns@attbi.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 09:59:09 -0600
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2222 parts layout
>
> Hi gang,
>
> I haven't posted for quite a while but I am still reading along with
> great interest.
>
> I sympathize about the Karl and others regarding the parts layout.
> I believe it gets even worse if you try to go back to Paul Harden's
> original book. His layout is "upside down" from Jim's latest
> layout, and some sections have been regrouped. Also Jim has
> redesigned some sections and renamed many of the parts. This can
> be really confusing.
>
> My attempt to resolve this and also to help others is found in 4 files
> posted in the "Files" section of the 2N2222-group in Yahoo.
> (Directory listed as AA0ZZ schematic and layout.)
>
> First, I have a redrawn schematic. I did this because I like to see
> the schematic all at once, if possible. I drew the circuit using
> CircuitMaker, and the resulting diagram is posted.
>
> Second, since many people do not have CircuitMaker, I have moved
> the drawing into a DOC file for Microsoft Word. Printing may be
> a problem, but it is at least viewable. Someone must know how to do
> a multi-page print.
>
> Third, I have a Microsoft PowerPoint layout of the pads. This is a
> full-size drawing, so all you have to do is print it and lay it on your
> circuit board. Then mark through the paper to your board for
> the pad layout.
>
> Fourth, the parts layout, also in Microsoft PowerPoint. This shows
> all the parts and all the interconnecting wires in several colors.
>
> (I have also posted a revision history file, which shows differences from
> my very first posting before I actually built it.)
>
> This layout DOES WORK - I have one working.
>
> Now some notes. This circuit and layout uses the "original" 2N2222
> mute circuit which is not as good as the redesigned versions that Jim
> has posted. However, I wanted it this way to stay "pure" as to the
> original design contest rules - to make the best radio possible using
> only 22 of the 2N2222 transistors. (Diodes don't count .) The result
> does have a keying "thump" problem in my version but I still hope to
> work it out. I am working on redesign of the mute using Spice models
> (with Jim's help).
>
> If anyone is unable to get the files from Yahoo, let me know and I will
> send them to you.
>
> 73,
> Craig, AAØZZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
For some reason I completely forgot all my transformer knowledge.
For example on a trifiller on one side of the bundle you have end 1, 3,
and 5. The other side has ends 2, 4 and 6.
When the picture shows connecting end 4 to end 5, don't be an
idiot and hook end 3 and 5 or 4 and 6 together as I did...:-)
I was not thinking. Now I am un-installing coils, fixing them and
re-testing afterwards. Expect a lot better results.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/Wow, I thought I was the only one that made those mistakes...
I always blame it on a senior moment...We earned those Karl
Wes
At 08:21 AM 3/19/02, you wrote:
> For some reason I completely forgot all my transformer knowledge.
>For example on a trifiller on one side of the bundle you have end 1, 3,
>and 5. The other side has ends 2, 4 and 6.
>
> When the picture shows connecting end 4 to end 5, don't be an
>idiot and hook end 3 and 5 or 4 and 6 together as I did...:-)
>
> I was not thinking. Now I am un-installing coils, fixing them and
>re-testing afterwards. Expect a lot better results.
>
>--
>Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Yes I found those. And they clicked. On big transformers I have put tape
on the ends of coils so I could sort them out later. These small ones are
too small for tape but you need to know what your doing.
On Mon, 18 Mar 2002, John Wagner wrote:
> Not all of 'em, just a few. Look in the Yahoo! site, Photos section, "Toroid
> Winding Examples."
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:16:15 -0700 (MST)
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Toroid winding
> >
> >
> > I understand there are some pictures or drawings somewhere of all
> > the toriod coils. I looked at both the yahoo pages and Jim's web page and
> > could find nothing. Perhaps I'm blind.
> >
> > --
> > Yours Truly,
> >
> > - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> > http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
I think a number of us messed these up... at least I like to think
so. :)
My order to Dan's just went out today, so I too will have three
different colors of mag wire here shortly (along with another $45
worth of parts that caught my attention while ordering
). Of
course all the colors in the rainbow won't help if you don't
number them correctly, as I have done myself.
Live and learn, that's why we do what we do.
73,
John, N1QO
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Karl F. Larsen" wrote:
>
> For some reason I completely forgot all my transformer
knowledge.
> For example on a trifiller on one side of the bundle you have
end 1, 3,
> and 5. The other side has ends 2, 4 and 6.
>
> When the picture shows connecting end 4 to end 5, don't be
an
> idiot and hook end 3 and 5 or 4 and 6 together as I did...:-)
>
> I was not thinking. Now I am un-installing coils, fixing them
and
> re-testing afterwards. Expect a lot better results.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@a... (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
Along these lines, Jake, N4UY, was the first to suggest using some colored
wire to wind one of my defective toroids when I was debugging the receiver.
I also found that it is useful to strip some insulation off of hook up wire
and cut it into 1/16" pieces. I then slipped a piece of this insulation
over the toroid lead that corresponded to the dots in the schematic. No
more mistakes after I started doing this.
Now that we have all learned the homebrewer's version of 2+2=4, we need
another project!
73 de Lee.
KM4YY
The criminal lawyer is too apt to be a man who is tainted somewhat by his
associations, and who fits himself for defending vile characters by
imbibing more or less of their vicious tastes and habits.
--Thomas Cooley, 1 Cooley's Blackstone xxv
----- Original Message -----
From: "realbeandip" <john@neknetwork.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 9:18 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Coils, what an ass I am
> I think a number of us messed these up... at least I like to think
> so. :)
>
> My order to Dan's just went out today, so I too will have three
> different colors of mag wire here shortly (along with another $45
> worth of parts that caught my attention while ordering). Of
> course all the colors in the rainbow won't help if you don't
> number them correctly, as I have done myself.
>
> Live and learn, that's why we do what we do.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Karl F. Larsen" wrote:
> >
> > For some reason I completely forgot all my transformer
> knowledge.
> > For example on a trifiller on one side of the bundle you have
> end 1, 3,
> > and 5. The other side has ends 2, 4 and 6.
> >
> > When the picture shows connecting end 4 to end 5, don't be
> an
> > idiot and hook end 3 and 5 or 4 and 6 together as I did...:-)
> >
> > I was not thinking. Now I am un-installing coils, fixing them
> and
> > re-testing afterwards. Expect a lot better results.
> >
> > --
> > Yours Truly,
> >
> > - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@a... (505) 524-3303 -
> > http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> Subject: [2n2-40] Coils, what an ass I am
It will probably happen again before your 2N2-40 is sitting nice in pretty
in an enclosure, but it will be worth it.
FWIW Department: I've been experimenting with two NorCal 38 Special 30
meter transceivers that I've acquired over the past year. The difference in
the receivers between the 2N2-40 and the 38 Special is absolutely amazing!
A RTTY station at 10.1 mHz wipes out most of the band.
Remember the word games for the verbal SAT test?
"The 38 Special receiver is to the 2N2-40 receiver as an Icom 781 is to a
crystal set!"
Jim has done us an amazing job!
73 de Lee,
KM4YY
Rightful liberty is unobstructed action, according to our will, within
limits
drawn around us by the equal rights of others.
--Thomas Jefferson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 8:21 AM
>
> For some reason I completely forgot all my transformer knowledge.
> For example on a trifiller on one side of the bundle you have end 1, 3,
> and 5. The other side has ends 2, 4 and 6.
>
> When the picture shows connecting end 4 to end 5, don't be an
> idiot and hook end 3 and 5 or 4 and 6 together as I did...:-)
>
> I was not thinking. Now I am un-installing coils, fixing them and
> re-testing afterwards. Expect a lot better results.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
It occurred to me that one man's thumping mute circuit might be another
man's normal transition. My ears were probably ruined during the Greater SE
Asia Tournament in the late '60s, but then again who knows? I would sure
like to hear other folk's and their 2N2-40s and see what the differences
really are. For example, how bad is a bad birdie? A large thump? etc.
How did others route the Rx and Tx power leads? Position bypass capacitors?
What ever?
I propose that folks bring their completed 2N2-40s to Atlanticon for a
special evening of Show n'Tell, Toroidal Lie Telling, and perhaps even some
internal lubrication. Jim Kortege has agreed to sign autographs, so it
ought to be an interesting time. Make sure you bring you manuals if you
don't want the autograph engraved across the top of the enclosure.
What do you say?
73 de Lee, KM4YY
PS: By the way, I already asked the Hirschorn Art Museum if the would send
up a judge to view John's masterpiece, but they said they had already
expended their budget for this fiscal year...
As Bertrand Russell once said, most people would rather die than think;
in fact, many do.
--George H. Smith
|
1861|1844|2002-03-19 17:04:42|Arth Silvers|Re: 2N2222 parts layout|Haven't seen Circuit Maker but check out the demo version of the Cadence
Orcad package. They will send you a somewhat size limited version of the
full blown package on a CD for free. No time limit. It is awesome. The
URL is
http://www.orcad.com/After re-hooking all the Bifiller and Trifiller coils up so they
match what Jim has in his schematic, the reciver recieves!!! I can copy CW
on 40 meters along with some Mexican SSB stuff.
Need to hook the varacap diodes back up on the crystal filter and
rewind the 2 coils in the front end so that the 3 and 7 turn coils are
wound inside the 30 turn coil for closer coupling.
It seems the longer wires made necessary by my upside down
construction cause zero problems. I am using plain #26 hookup wire. The
receiver sounds real good, better when I get the speaker mounted in the
box.
Let ma at some more coils. I will wind them and hook them up right
the first time!
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/At 02:29 PM 3/19/02 -0700, you wrote:
> Building my 2n2 radio I forgot all I ever knew about coils and
>mis-connected 6 toroid coils in the receiver. Of course it didn't work.
>When I stared at Jim K8IQY's schematic and it struck me that I had goofed.
>
> Today I removed all 6 coils and with great care made certain that
>wire end 4 was tied to end 5. When they were all fixed I turned on the
>reciever and heard CW from 40 meters!
Karl.....way to go! As I have told the gang all along, if you
build it according to the schematic, and it doesn't much matter
which version, the rig will work. A lot of time was spent up front
doing circuit modelling and testing to assure a stable design.
That said, mis-building any of it can ruin the rigs inherent fine
performance.
Keep us updated as you go further.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Way to go! Shouldn't be more than another 5-6 problems before it is in the
box.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
He that would make his own liberty secure must guard even his enemy from
oppression; for if he violates this duty he establishes a precedent that
will reach to himself.
-- Thomas Paine
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 4:19 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] The receiver WORKS!
>
> After re-hooking all the Bifiller and Trifiller coils up so they
> match what Jim has in his schematic, the reciver recieves!!! I can copy CW
> on 40 meters along with some Mexican SSB stuff.
>
> Need to hook the varacap diodes back up on the crystal filter and
> rewind the 2 coils in the front end so that the 3 and 7 turn coils are
> wound inside the 30 turn coil for closer coupling.
>
> It seems the longer wires made necessary by my upside down
> construction cause zero problems. I am using plain #26 hookup wire. The
> receiver sounds real good, better when I get the speaker mounted in the
> box.
>
> Let ma at some more coils. I will wind them and hook them up right
> the first time!
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Woooo hoooo! Way to go Karl!
BTW, if you are copying SSB, you are listening on the LSB and should adjust
the Rx Lo so it's listening on the USB. The filter will work much better.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 14:19:58 -0700 (MST)
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [2n2-40] The receiver WORKS!
>
>
> After re-hooking all the Bifiller and Trifiller coils up so they
> match what Jim has in his schematic, the reciver recieves!!! I can copy CW
> on 40 meters along with some Mexican SSB stuff.
>
> Need to hook the varacap diodes back up on the crystal filter and
> rewind the 2 coils in the front end so that the 3 and 7 turn coils are
> wound inside the 30 turn coil for closer coupling.
>
> It seems the longer wires made necessary by my upside down
> construction cause zero problems. I am using plain #26 hookup wire. The
> receiver sounds real good, better when I get the speaker mounted in the
> box.
>
> Let ma at some more coils. I will wind them and hook them up right
> the first time!
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Man, I'm so close to making the trip down there... dang, it's a really long
drive from the top of VT down to MD. A co-worker of mine is talking about it
too, so it *might* happen.
If it does, color me there. ;) I agree with Lee, it would GREAT to have a
bunch of 2n2-40's around to compare.
And Lee, my rig looks much better in the photographs then it does in person
- could be I airbrushed the knobs just a little... ;)
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:37:12 -0500
> To: "Low Power Amateur Radio Discussion" <qrp-l@Lehigh.EDU>,
> <njqrp@njqrp.org>, <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [2n2-40] Atlanticon 2N2-40 Autograph and Show n'Tell Session
>
> It occurred to me that one man's thumping mute circuit might be another
> man's normal transition. My ears were probably ruined during the Greater SE
> Asia Tournament in the late '60s, but then again who knows? I would sure
> like to hear other folk's and their 2N2-40s and see what the differences
> really are. For example, how bad is a bad birdie? A large thump? etc.
> How did others route the Rx and Tx power leads? Position bypass capacitors?
> What ever?
>
> I propose that folks bring their completed 2N2-40s to Atlanticon for a
> special evening of Show n'Tell, Toroidal Lie Telling, and perhaps even some
> internal lubrication. Jim Kortege has agreed to sign autographs, so it
> ought to be an interesting time. Make sure you bring you manuals if you
> don't want the autograph engraved across the top of the enclosure.
>
> What do you say?
>
> 73 de Lee, KM4YY
>
> PS: By the way, I already asked the Hirschorn Art Museum if the would send
> up a judge to view John's masterpiece, but they said they had already
> expended their budget for this fiscal year...
>
>
> As Bertrand Russell once said, most people would rather die than think;
> in fact, many do.
> --George H. Smith
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
The parts are finally here! One thing though.... I accidentally
ordered the MV2115's instead of the MV1662's. Can I still use the
2115's, or should I bite the bullet and order 2 1662's?
Anyway, I can start on the VFO and get that working.
Also, I have never wound a toroid in my life (remember how it was on
your first one?). Anyway, any help that can be provided (tips,
pictures... I have the ones from the group, examples) would be
excellent.
Thanks to all!
Jeff - K8GD
|
1868|1860|2002-03-19 21:26:09|Lee Mairs|Re: Atlanticon 2N2-40 Autograph and Show n'Tell Session|John -
Don't give me that! I saw the pictures. I'm talking about the insides with
all those components at parade rest...
Check the Southwest Airlines Website. There are some $59 flights to BWI
from Manchester, NH advertised today. I made that drive to Burlington, VT
several times in a past life. The ex-XYL's family had a wonderful cottage on
Lake Champlain.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to
reform.
--Mark Twain
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 6:03 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Atlanticon 2N2-40 Autograph and Show n'Tell Session
> Man, I'm so close to making the trip down there... dang, it's a really
long
> drive from the top of VT down to MD. A co-worker of mine is talking about
it
> too, so it *might* happen.
>
> If it does, color me there. ;) I agree with Lee, it would GREAT to have a
> bunch of 2n2-40's around to compare.
>
> And Lee, my rig looks much better in the photographs then it does in
person
> - could be I airbrushed the knobs just a little... ;)
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:37:12 -0500
> > To: "Low Power Amateur Radio Discussion" <qrp-l@Lehigh.EDU>,
> > <njqrp@njqrp.org>, <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Atlanticon 2N2-40 Autograph and Show n'Tell Session
> >
> > It occurred to me that one man's thumping mute circuit might be another
> > man's normal transition. My ears were probably ruined during the
Greater SE
> > Asia Tournament in the late '60s, but then again who knows? I would
sure
> > like to hear other folk's and their 2N2-40s and see what the differences
> > really are. For example, how bad is a bad birdie? A large thump? etc.
> > How did others route the Rx and Tx power leads? Position bypass
capacitors?
> > What ever?
> >
> > I propose that folks bring their completed 2N2-40s to Atlanticon for a
> > special evening of Show n'Tell, Toroidal Lie Telling, and perhaps even
some
> > internal lubrication. Jim Kortege has agreed to sign autographs, so it
> > ought to be an interesting time. Make sure you bring you manuals if
you
> > don't want the autograph engraved across the top of the enclosure.
> >
> > What do you say?
> >
> > 73 de Lee, KM4YY
> >
> > PS: By the way, I already asked the Hirschorn Art Museum if the would
send
> > up a judge to view John's masterpiece, but they said they had already
> > expended their budget for this fiscal year...
> >
> >
> > As Bertrand Russell once said, most people would rather die than think;
> > in fact, many do.
> > --George H. Smith
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hi John, perhaps your right. It sounds like the filter is off frequency.
But in this case the BFO may be wrong. Will experimant much more.
On Tue, 19 Mar 2002, John Wagner wrote:
> Woooo hoooo! Way to go Karl!
>
> BTW, if you are copying SSB, you are listening on the LSB and should adjust
> the Rx Lo so it's listening on the USB. The filter will work much better.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 14:19:58 -0700 (MST)
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [2n2-40] The receiver WORKS!
> >
> >
> > After re-hooking all the Bifiller and Trifiller coils up so they
> > match what Jim has in his schematic, the reciver recieves!!! I can copy CW
> > on 40 meters along with some Mexican SSB stuff.
> >
> > Need to hook the varacap diodes back up on the crystal filter and
> > rewind the 2 coils in the front end so that the 3 and 7 turn coils are
> > wound inside the 30 turn coil for closer coupling.
> >
> > It seems the longer wires made necessary by my upside down
> > construction cause zero problems. I am using plain #26 hookup wire. The
> > receiver sounds real good, better when I get the speaker mounted in the
> > box.
> >
> > Let ma at some more coils. I will wind them and hook them up right
> > the first time!
> >
> > --
> > Yours Truly,
> >
> > - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> > http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
Hi Jeff, I just had a problem with my coils. The problem is NOT winding
them, but getting the proper ends of the coil(s) to the proper place. When
your done say with a bifiller coil, arrange the tag ends of the wires so
you have a left set and a right set. You number them from right to left,
so in our example you will have 1 and 3 on the left side and 2 and 4 on
the right side.
If the schematic says connect ends 3 and 2 together do it now. Then solder
that to where it goes. Then solder the other 2 ends (1 and 4) to where
they go.
The secret is to number the ends, and then do what the schematic shows.
Simple but I did 6 coils wrong.
On Wed, 20 Mar 2002, dek8gd wrote:
> The parts are finally here! One thing though.... I accidentally
> ordered the MV2115's instead of the MV1662's. Can I still use the
> 2115's, or should I bite the bullet and order 2 1662's?
>
> Anyway, I can start on the VFO and get that working.
>
> Also, I have never wound a toroid in my life (remember how it was on
> your first one?). Anyway, any help that can be provided (tips,
> pictures... I have the ones from the group, examples) would be
> excellent.
>
> Thanks to all!
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
I am excited! I got the VFO portion put together... and it
oscillates! I am running pin 4 of T5 through a piece of RG58 into my
IC-736, and I hear a carrier!
But..... it is low in frequency. When I have the 20K pot turned
fully counter clockwise (what should be ~2.085 MHz) the highest
frequency I can get by adjusting TC3 & TC4 is 2.052 MHz. Obviously
this is throwing off my upper frequency as well.
Do I want to remove a few turns off of L1? If not... what should a
newbie do?
I really appreciate everyone's support, and I am really looking
forward to my first QSO!
Thanks... and best 72 to all.
Jeff - K8GD
|
1872|1862|2002-03-20 00:09:41|Lee Mairs|Re: The receiver WORKS!|Karl -
Pay attention to Father John. He knows of what he speaks. It is the RxLO
that you have to adjust to get filter working correctly. If you can
understand what the ssb'ers are saying, your RxLO is on the wrong side of
the pass band. There is an excellent email in the 2N2-40 that explains this
stuff in detail. You have to go thru the whole pile to get the kernels of
wheat that Jim generates in response to the ton of chaff the rest of us
generated.
Lee
If a woman has to choose between catching a fly ball and saving an infant's
life,
she will choose to save the infant's life without even considering if there
are
men on base.
-- Dave Barry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 10:59 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] The receiver WORKS!
>
> Hi John, perhaps your right. It sounds like the filter is off frequency.
> But in this case the BFO may be wrong. Will experimant much more.
>
> On Tue, 19 Mar 2002, John Wagner wrote:
>
> > Woooo hoooo! Way to go Karl!
> >
> > BTW, if you are copying SSB, you are listening on the LSB and should
adjust
> > the Rx Lo so it's listening on the USB. The filter will work much
better.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > John, N1QO
> >
> > > From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> > > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > > Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 14:19:58 -0700 (MST)
> > > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [2n2-40] The receiver WORKS!
> > >
> > >
> > > After re-hooking all the Bifiller and Trifiller coils up so they
> > > match what Jim has in his schematic, the reciver recieves!!! I can
copy CW
> > > on 40 meters along with some Mexican SSB stuff.
> > >
> > > Need to hook the varacap diodes back up on the crystal filter and
> > > rewind the 2 coils in the front end so that the 3 and 7 turn coils are
> > > wound inside the 30 turn coil for closer coupling.
> > >
> > > It seems the longer wires made necessary by my upside down
> > > construction cause zero problems. I am using plain #26 hookup wire.
The
> > > receiver sounds real good, better when I get the speaker mounted in
the
> > > box.
> > >
> > > Let ma at some more coils. I will wind them and hook them up right
> > > the first time!
> > >
> > > --
> > > Yours Truly,
> > >
> > > - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> > > http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
At 06:03 PM 3/19/02 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>Man, I'm so close to making the trip down there... dang, it's a really long
>drive from the top of VT down to MD. A co-worker of mine is talking about it
>too, so it *might* happen.
My motto: You only get one chance at life. Gotta do the fun things
before the dirt hits the sides of the coffin.
Hope you can join us John, but if you don't we'll understand. However,
we do reserve the right to talk about your rig. Remember, I've seen
it! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
WRT the Rx LO - there is a PDF in the files section on the Yahoo! website
that Jim placed with a nice explanation of why things are the way they are
as well as a nice plot of the filter which leaves nothing to the
imagination. It's called "2n2 LO alignment" or something similiar to that.
I seem to recall Craig, AA0ZZ had an excellent post on the procedure he used
to align the radio as well. That would be another good one to search the
archives for.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 00:18:58 -0500
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] The receiver WORKS!
>
> Karl -
> Pay attention to Father John. He knows of what he speaks. It is the RxLO
> that you have to adjust to get filter working correctly. If you can
> understand what the ssb'ers are saying, your RxLO is on the wrong side of
> the pass band. There is an excellent email in the 2N2-40 that explains this
> stuff in detail. You have to go thru the whole pile to get the kernels of
> wheat that Jim generates in response to the ton of chaff the rest of us
> generated.
> Lee
At 12:08 AM 3/20/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>The parts are finally here! One thing though.... I accidentally
>ordered the MV2115's instead of the MV1662's. Can I still use the
>2115's, or should I bite the bullet and order 2 1662's?
You can use the MV2115 diodes if you build the original VBW filter
setup. If you'd rather build the latest version, and you have
the 2 LEDs that are required, I'll send you a pair of MV1662 diodes.
Send my your mailing address if you need them.
>Anyway, I can start on the VFO and get that working.
Yes, that's a good place to start, or the Rx/Tx switching circuitry
for some Manhattan-style learning on a non-critical area.
>Also, I have never wound a toroid in my life (remember how it was on
>your first one?). Anyway, any help that can be provided (tips,
>pictures... I have the ones from the group, examples) would be
>excellent.
Go slowly and wind them fairly neat and tight. The wires on the inside
of the torus will need to be touching in order to get the required turns
on. Don't overlap them though. Don't drop the cores on a cement or
tile floor; they will probably shatter. The pieces can be glued back
together with superglue however, but that's not a fun project. Make
sure you follow the schematic carefully when connecting the ends of the
bifilar and trifilar windings, otherwise, those transformers will not
work correctly, and neither will your rig.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Here is the post by Craig, AA0ZZ about how he aligned his rig. It's very
detailed. Craig explains what it means to have a filter that works on the
USB and what that means to your Rx LO and its relationship to the IF - it's
a great post.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/message/1430 Note that he used a scope and a freq counter - you can do it without either,
but not quite as accurately.
73,
John, N1QO
At 05:00 AM 3/20/02 +0000, you wrote:
>I am excited! I got the VFO portion put together... and it
>oscillates! I am running pin 4 of T5 through a piece of RG58 into my
>IC-736, and I hear a carrier!
Be careful hooking up outputs directly into a GC receiver. Some
of the rf outputs are high enough to burn things out.
>But..... it is low in frequency. When I have the 20K pot turned
>fully counter clockwise (what should be ~2.085 MHz) the highest
>frequency I can get by adjusting TC3 & TC4 is 2.052 MHz. Obviously
>this is throwing off my upper frequency as well.
>
>Do I want to remove a few turns off of L1? If not... what should a
>newbie do?
Yes, take a turn off at a time, and see how far it moves. Easier
to take off another one, but adding them on is ugly, to say the
least.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks for the tip. I certainly don't want to blow up the 736. From
here on out I will have it hooked up to my frequency counter. I
should be safe there.
I will remove a turn at a time and see where that puts me.
Thanks very much for the help.... I'll report back later tonight.
Best 72.
Jeff
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 05:00 AM 3/20/02 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >I am excited! I got the VFO portion put together... and it
> >oscillates! I am running pin 4 of T5 through a piece of RG58 into my
> >IC-736, and I hear a carrier!
>
> Be careful hooking up outputs directly into a GC receiver. Some
> of the rf outputs are high enough to burn things out.
>
> >But..... it is low in frequency. When I have the 20K pot turned
> >fully counter clockwise (what should be ~2.085 MHz) the highest
> >frequency I can get by adjusting TC3 & TC4 is 2.052 MHz. Obviously
> >this is throwing off my upper frequency as well.
> >
> >Do I want to remove a few turns off of L1? If not... what should a
> >newbie do?
>
> Yes, take a turn off at a time, and see how far it moves. Easier
> to take off another one, but adding them on is ugly, to say the
> least.
>
> 72 and GL,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Jeff -
You should be able to hear the oscillator in your station receiver -
especially if you drape a short antenna in the vicinity of the VFO. I would
suggest that you leave room around the VFO to solder some vertical pieces of
PC board. At least two of us found that necessary to quiet internally
generated birdies later on.
This is great fun, isn't it? You will even enjoy helping guys follow in
your steps.
Jim Kortege for the QRP Hall of Fame!!! Hear! Hear!
73 de Lee
KM4YY
There's only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well
please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take
the consequences.
--P.J. O'Rourke
----- Original Message -----
From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 9:09 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: The VFO ... She oscillates... but....
> Thanks for the tip. I certainly don't want to blow up the 736. From
> here on out I will have it hooked up to my frequency counter. I
> should be safe there.
>
> I will remove a turn at a time and see where that puts me.
>
> Thanks very much for the help.... I'll report back later tonight.
>
> Best 72.
>
> Jeff
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > At 05:00 AM 3/20/02 +0000, you wrote:
> >
> > >I am excited! I got the VFO portion put together... and it
> > >oscillates! I am running pin 4 of T5 through a piece of RG58 into my
> > >IC-736, and I hear a carrier!
> >
> > Be careful hooking up outputs directly into a GC receiver. Some
> > of the rf outputs are high enough to burn things out.
> >
> > >But..... it is low in frequency. When I have the 20K pot turned
> > >fully counter clockwise (what should be ~2.085 MHz) the highest
> > >frequency I can get by adjusting TC3 & TC4 is 2.052 MHz. Obviously
> > >this is throwing off my upper frequency as well.
> > >
> > >Do I want to remove a few turns off of L1? If not... what should a
> > >newbie do?
> >
> > Yes, take a turn off at a time, and see how far it moves. Easier
> > to take off another one, but adding them on is ugly, to say the
> > least.
> >
> > 72 and GL,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hi Jeff a couple of points: The VFO should be so loud you don't need to
couple to it direct. Mine is putting out 350 MV PP and my radio (TS-50)
hears it with just a wire in the antenna jack.
I had to take 2 turns off of L1 before it became capable to make tune the
right frequencies.
On Wed, 20 Mar 2002, dek8gd wrote:
> I am excited! I got the VFO portion put together... and it
> oscillates! I am running pin 4 of T5 through a piece of RG58 into my
> IC-736, and I hear a carrier!
>
> But..... it is low in frequency. When I have the 20K pot turned
> fully counter clockwise (what should be ~2.085 MHz) the highest
> frequency I can get by adjusting TC3 & TC4 is 2.052 MHz. Obviously
> this is throwing off my upper frequency as well.
>
> Do I want to remove a few turns off of L1? If not... what should a
> newbie do?
>
> I really appreciate everyone's support, and I am really looking
> forward to my first QSO!
>
> Thanks... and best 72 to all.
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
Fun indeed! I finally feel like a real ham! I have been wanting to
do this for years, but never found the right project, or the right
people to work with. I can't tell you how much fun I am having (or
how much I am learning). I wish getting my EE degree years ago was
this much fun :)
Thanks for all of the tips... and keep them coming!
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> Jeff -
> You should be able to hear the oscillator in your station receiver -
> especially if you drape a short antenna in the vicinity of the VFO.
I would
> suggest that you leave room around the VFO to solder some vertical
pieces of
> PC board. At least two of us found that necessary to quiet internally
> generated birdies later on.
>
> This is great fun, isn't it? You will even enjoy helping guys follow in
> your steps.
>
> Jim Kortege for the QRP Hall of Fame!!! Hear! Hear!
>
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
>
> There's only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well
> please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take
> the consequences.
> --P.J. O'Rourke
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dek8gd"
> To: <2n2-40@y...>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 9:09 AM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: The VFO ... She oscillates... but....
>
>
> > Thanks for the tip. I certainly don't want to blow up the 736. From
> > here on out I will have it hooked up to my frequency counter. I
> > should be safe there.
> >
> > I will remove a turn at a time and see where that puts me.
> >
> > Thanks very much for the help.... I'll report back later tonight.
> >
> > Best 72.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > > At 05:00 AM 3/20/02 +0000, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >I am excited! I got the VFO portion put together... and it
> > > >oscillates! I am running pin 4 of T5 through a piece of RG58
into my
> > > >IC-736, and I hear a carrier!
> > >
> > > Be careful hooking up outputs directly into a GC receiver. Some
> > > of the rf outputs are high enough to burn things out.
> > >
> > > >But..... it is low in frequency. When I have the 20K pot turned
> > > >fully counter clockwise (what should be ~2.085 MHz) the highest
> > > >frequency I can get by adjusting TC3 & TC4 is 2.052 MHz. Obviously
> > > >this is throwing off my upper frequency as well.
> > > >
> > > >Do I want to remove a few turns off of L1? If not... what should a
> > > >newbie do?
> > >
> > > Yes, take a turn off at a time, and see how far it moves. Easier
> > > to take off another one, but adding them on is ugly, to say the
> > > least.
> > >
> > > 72 and GL,
> > >
> > > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
I got my parts last week! Still need to rustle up some time to build... My
10 year old wants to help....
--{ Mark E Schoonover KA6WKE
--{ Senior Hacker, IS Gopher, Hardware Fiend
--{ American Geotechnical
--{
http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke --{
ka6wke@amsat.org -----Original Message-----
From: dek8gd [mailto:
jhecht@dnaco.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 4:09 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] The parts are finally here
The parts are finally here! One thing though.... I accidentally
ordered the MV2115's instead of the MV1662's. Can I still use the
2115's, or should I bite the bullet and order 2 1662's?
Anyway, I can start on the VFO and get that working.
Also, I have never wound a toroid in my life (remember how it was on
your first one?). Anyway, any help that can be provided (tips,
pictures... I have the ones from the group, examples) would be
excellent.
Thanks to all!
Jeff - K8GD
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Jeff -
I have a BSEE degree also, but it had nothing to do with building neat
radios. It was a certificate of completion for five years in a calculus
monastery!
73 de Lee
KM4YY
...economic history is a long record of government policies that failed
because they were designed with a bold disregard for the laws of economics.
--Ludwig von Mises
----- Original Message -----
From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:17 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: The VFO ... She oscillates... but....
> Fun indeed! I finally feel like a real ham! I have been wanting to
> do this for years, but never found the right project, or the right
> people to work with. I can't tell you how much fun I am having (or
> how much I am learning). I wish getting my EE degree years ago was
> this much fun :)
>
> Thanks for all of the tips... and keep them coming!
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> > Jeff -
> > You should be able to hear the oscillator in your station receiver -
> > especially if you drape a short antenna in the vicinity of the VFO.
> I would
> > suggest that you leave room around the VFO to solder some vertical
> pieces of
> > PC board. At least two of us found that necessary to quiet internally
> > generated birdies later on.
> >
> > This is great fun, isn't it? You will even enjoy helping guys follow in
> > your steps.
> >
> > Jim Kortege for the QRP Hall of Fame!!! Hear! Hear!
> >
> > 73 de Lee
> > KM4YY
> >
> >
> > There's only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well
> > please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take
> > the consequences.
> > --P.J. O'Rourke
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "dek8gd"
> > To: <2n2-40@y...>
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 9:09 AM
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Re: The VFO ... She oscillates... but....
> >
> >
> > > Thanks for the tip. I certainly don't want to blow up the 736. From
> > > here on out I will have it hooked up to my frequency counter. I
> > > should be safe there.
> > >
> > > I will remove a turn at a time and see where that puts me.
> > >
> > > Thanks very much for the help.... I'll report back later tonight.
> > >
> > > Best 72.
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > >
> > > --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > > > At 05:00 AM 3/20/02 +0000, you wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >I am excited! I got the VFO portion put together... and it
> > > > >oscillates! I am running pin 4 of T5 through a piece of RG58
> into my
> > > > >IC-736, and I hear a carrier!
> > > >
> > > > Be careful hooking up outputs directly into a GC receiver. Some
> > > > of the rf outputs are high enough to burn things out.
> > > >
> > > > >But..... it is low in frequency. When I have the 20K pot turned
> > > > >fully counter clockwise (what should be ~2.085 MHz) the highest
> > > > >frequency I can get by adjusting TC3 & TC4 is 2.052 MHz. Obviously
> > > > >this is throwing off my upper frequency as well.
> > > > >
> > > > >Do I want to remove a few turns off of L1? If not... what should a
> > > > >newbie do?
> > > >
> > > > Yes, take a turn off at a time, and see how far it moves. Easier
> > > > to take off another one, but adding them on is ugly, to say the
> > > > least.
> > > >
> > > > 72 and GL,
> > > >
> > > > Jim, K8IQY
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
When testing the transmitter, do not key down for long
periods of time (say, 5-10 sec.), even if you have
heat sinks on the finals. What will happen is this:
You will hear "the click" in the headphones.
You will say a bad word or two.
You will notice a lack of RF output on your wattmeter,
scope, receiver, coax connected to your tongue.
You will kick yourself for not ordering more metal
2N2222s.
When the brown clad guy from the brown truck hands you
that brown box, you will spend the next 1/2 hour
replacing the finals.
The metal transistors work fine in normal use, but
will heat up quickly if keyed down for longer periods.
Been there, done that, got the shirt (really!). Have
spent much quality time with the iron after "the
click."
GL all es 72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- n0dsp <
n0dsp@yahoo.com> wrote:
> OK, so I didn't wait...
>
> I figured, things look good up to pot 4 and I found
> that I had the Tx
> line hooked up wrong, so lets hook it up right and
> continue.. I'm
> Sooo close! So here is what I did... (as everyone
> asks
> themselves...doesn't Tom have anything else to
> do?)...
>
> I put Pot 4 back in. Hooked up the Tx line to the
> right places
> throughout Tx. I didn't have C67 or C68 hooked up,
> as the story
> progresses let me know if that was a mistake. I
> re-checked the
> transmit section against the schematics... looks
> good (I think)
>
> Applied power to rig, hooked my scope up to the
> non-grounded side of
> C65 (this is where I have the center conductor of my
> antenna
> attached, the coax sheild is grounded to the board)
> The scope is
> flatline, because I'm in receive. Attach a dummy
> load to the BNC.
> Tune the 2N2 and general receiver to 7.040 using a
> signal generator.
> Key 2N2, at see the scope jump up nicely!! Can't
> remember now what
> scale I was on with the scope, but I think I saw a
> 400 mV signal on
> the scope (guessing here). I can hear my transmit
> signal on the
> general receiver too!! Seems loud! Keyed the 2N2
> for a couple
> seconds a few times... Feeling REAL good now!!
> Hmmm, thought I saw
> the signal on the scope getting smaller toward the
> end of the key
> up. Keyed it again for a few seconds and did see it
> getting
> smaller. Tried one more time and saw nothing on the
> scale I was
> using. REAL BUMMER!!
>
> As best I can see, or relay to you guys, here are
> some observations
> with the scope. From lack of knowledge, I may
> mis-state a reading,
> but hopefully you will know what I mean. (Hope you
> are not sick of
> hearing from me by now)
>
> With 2N2 keyed I see the following:
>
> Before Pot 4 - 100mW
> After Pot 4 - 100mW (Pot 4 is fully clockwise)
> After C54 - 100 mW
> T14 #1 - 2500 mV (Collector? of Q17) (is this 2.5V?)
> T14 #4 - 500 mV (signal now looks like a square
> wave, flat top)
> Bus strip, Base of Q18, Q19 and Q20 - 500mV (still
> flat top)
> Bus strip, Collector of Q18, Q19 and Q20 - 12 mV (no
> longer flat top)
> At C65 - 12 mV (Same as collector Bus)
>
> Houston, I think we have a problem...
>
> Here is a question that comes to mind. Is the
> Emitter and Collector
> of the metal 2N2222's opposite of the plastic? I'm
> thinking they are
> and think I have them in as if they are. I have
> them installed like
> they appear in the 2N2-40 book, as far as their
> orientation. Tab
> away from me, Emitter then points left to the
> resistors and
> capacitors (ei C60 & R59, etc). Collector (right
> side) to the bus
> strip that has the connection over to the LP filter
> and antenna
> conection.
>
> I can still hear my signal on the general receiver,
> but weak. By the
> way, the tone in my headphones when I key up is
> EXTREMELY loud. Now
> I have reinstalled capacitors on the key and receive
> line.
>
> I think I'm good thru a small section of the rig, so
> I'm not giving
> up now. Does it sound like my metal 2M2222's are in
> right? What do
> you guys think I should do?? (maybe forget it and
> go eat corned beef
> and drink green beer??) I guess my spirits are
> higher, because I
> figure, it must be one, maybe two more stupid
> mistakes and I should
> be done!!
>
> I'm anxious to hear what you think.
>
> Happy Saint Patricks Day to you all!!
>
> Tom
>
> N0DSP
>
> ps... by now I'm WAY beyond being afraid to ask
> stupid questions!
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards�
http://movies.yahoo.com/You can say that again.... although, I had some fun. I did my
concentration in electromagnetics and antenna design. I took 3
antenna classes, one of which was an independent study... what fun! I
got to be a very good friend of MININEC.
Anyway, I removed 1 turn from L1 in the VFO circuit, and I am able to
bring the bottom freq. up to 2.085 without any trouble. However, it
tops out at about 2.172 MHz. Any clues as to what I can do to get 100
KHz band spread?
I hope everyone doesn't mind a little hand holding here. I know I
have a lot to learn and really want this to be a success.
Thanks and 72!
Jeff
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> Jeff -
> I have a BSEE degree also, but it had nothing to do with building
neat
> radios. It was a certificate of completion for five years in a
calculus
> monastery!
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
> ...economic history is a long record of government policies that
failed
> because they were designed with a bold disregard for the laws of
economics.
> --Ludwig von Mises
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dek8gd"
> To: <2n2-40@y...>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:17 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: The VFO ... She oscillates... but....
>
>
> > Fun indeed! I finally feel like a real ham! I have been wanting
to
> > do this for years, but never found the right project, or the right
> > people to work with. I can't tell you how much fun I am having
(or
> > how much I am learning). I wish getting my EE degree years ago
was
> > this much fun :)
> >
> > Thanks for all of the tips... and keep them coming!
> >
> > Jeff - K8GD
> >
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> > > Jeff -
> > > You should be able to hear the oscillator in your station
receiver -
> > > especially if you drape a short antenna in the vicinity of the
VFO.
> > I would
> > > suggest that you leave room around the VFO to solder some
vertical
> > pieces of
> > > PC board. At least two of us found that necessary to quiet
internally
> > > generated birdies later on.
> > >
> > > This is great fun, isn't it? You will even enjoy helping guys
follow in
> > > your steps.
> > >
> > > Jim Kortege for the QRP Hall of Fame!!! Hear! Hear!
> > >
> > > 73 de Lee
> > > KM4YY
> > >
> > >
> > > There's only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn
well
> > > please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to
take
> > > the consequences.
> > > --P.J. O'Rourke
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "dek8gd"
> > > To: <2n2-40@y...>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 9:09 AM
> > > Subject: [2n2-40] Re: The VFO ... She oscillates... but....
> > >
> > >
> > > > Thanks for the tip. I certainly don't want to blow up the
736. From
> > > > here on out I will have it hooked up to my frequency counter.
I
> > > > should be safe there.
> > > >
> > > > I will remove a turn at a time and see where that puts me.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks very much for the help.... I'll report back later
tonight.
> > > >
> > > > Best 72.
> > > >
> > > > Jeff
> > > >
> > > > --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > > > > At 05:00 AM 3/20/02 +0000, you wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > >I am excited! I got the VFO portion put together... and it
> > > > > >oscillates! I am running pin 4 of T5 through a piece of
RG58
> > into my
> > > > > >IC-736, and I hear a carrier!
> > > > >
> > > > > Be careful hooking up outputs directly into a GC receiver.
Some
> > > > > of the rf outputs are high enough to burn things out.
> > > > >
> > > > > >But..... it is low in frequency. When I have the 20K pot
turned
> > > > > >fully counter clockwise (what should be ~2.085 MHz) the
highest
> > > > > >frequency I can get by adjusting TC3 & TC4 is 2.052 MHz.
Obviously
> > > > > >this is throwing off my upper frequency as well.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Do I want to remove a few turns off of L1? If not... what
should a
> > > > > >newbie do?
> > > > >
> > > > > Yes, take a turn off at a time, and see how far it moves.
Easier
> > > > > to take off another one, but adding them on is ugly, to say
the
> > > > > least.
> > > > >
> > > > > 72 and GL,
> > > > >
> > > > > Jim, K8IQY
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
Jeff,
Have a peak at this message:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/message/493 73,
John, N1QO
> From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 01:29:12 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: The VFO ... She oscillates... but....
>
> You can say that again.... although, I had some fun. I did my
> concentration in electromagnetics and antenna design. I took 3
> antenna classes, one of which was an independent study... what fun! I
> got to be a very good friend of MININEC.
>
> Anyway, I removed 1 turn from L1 in the VFO circuit, and I am able to
> bring the bottom freq. up to 2.085 without any trouble. However, it
> tops out at about 2.172 MHz. Any clues as to what I can do to get 100
> KHz band spread?
>
> I hope everyone doesn't mind a little hand holding here. I know I
> have a lot to learn and really want this to be a success.
>
> Thanks and 72!
>
> Jeff
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
>> Jeff -
>> I have a BSEE degree also, but it had nothing to do with building
> neat
>> radios. It was a certificate of completion for five years in a
> calculus
>> monastery!
>> 73 de Lee
>> KM4YY
>>
>> ...economic history is a long record of government policies that
> failed
>> because they were designed with a bold disregard for the laws of
> economics.
>> --Ludwig von Mises
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "dek8gd"
>> To: <2n2-40@y...>
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:17 PM
>> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: The VFO ... She oscillates... but....
>>
>>
>>> Fun indeed! I finally feel like a real ham! I have been wanting
> to
>>> do this for years, but never found the right project, or the right
>>> people to work with. I can't tell you how much fun I am having
> (or
>>> how much I am learning). I wish getting my EE degree years ago
> was
>>> this much fun :)
>>>
>>> Thanks for all of the tips... and keep them coming!
>>>
>>> Jeff - K8GD
>>>
>>>
>>> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
>>>> Jeff -
>>>> You should be able to hear the oscillator in your station
> receiver -
>>>> especially if you drape a short antenna in the vicinity of the
> VFO.
>>> I would
>>>> suggest that you leave room around the VFO to solder some
> vertical
>>> pieces of
>>>> PC board. At least two of us found that necessary to quiet
> internally
>>>> generated birdies later on.
>>>>
>>>> This is great fun, isn't it? You will even enjoy helping guys
> follow in
>>>> your steps.
>>>>
>>>> Jim Kortege for the QRP Hall of Fame!!! Hear! Hear!
>>>>
>>>> 73 de Lee
>>>> KM4YY
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There's only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn
> well
>>>> please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to
> take
>>>> the consequences.
>>>> --P.J. O'Rourke
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "dek8gd"
>>>> To: <2n2-40@y...>
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 9:09 AM
>>>> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: The VFO ... She oscillates... but....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for the tip. I certainly don't want to blow up the
> 736. From
>>>>> here on out I will have it hooked up to my frequency counter.
> I
>>>>> should be safe there.
>>>>>
>>>>> I will remove a turn at a time and see where that puts me.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks very much for the help.... I'll report back later
> tonight.
>>>>>
>>>>> Best 72.
>>>>>
>>>>> Jeff
>>>>>
>>>>> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>>>>>> At 05:00 AM 3/20/02 +0000, you wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I am excited! I got the VFO portion put together... and it
>>>>>>> oscillates! I am running pin 4 of T5 through a piece of
> RG58
>>> into my
>>>>>>> IC-736, and I hear a carrier!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Be careful hooking up outputs directly into a GC receiver.
> Some
>>>>>> of the rf outputs are high enough to burn things out.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> But..... it is low in frequency. When I have the 20K pot
> turned
>>>>>>> fully counter clockwise (what should be ~2.085 MHz) the
> highest
>>>>>>> frequency I can get by adjusting TC3 & TC4 is 2.052 MHz.
> Obviously
>>>>>>> this is throwing off my upper frequency as well.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Do I want to remove a few turns off of L1? If not... what
> should a
>>>>>>> newbie do?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yes, take a turn off at a time, and see how far it moves.
> Easier
>>>>>> to take off another one, but adding them on is ugly, to say
> the
>>>>>> least.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 72 and GL,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Jim, K8IQY
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>>>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>>> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Very Good Jeff, Now you need to add some capacitance to C7 in the
VFO. In my 2n240 I finally replaced the 120pf with a 150pf NPO. But
you may not need that much. Try a trimmer cap in parallel with C7.
But you should not have any trouble now getting you range.
Wes
At 08:29 PM 3/20/02, you wrote:
>You can say that again.... although, I had some fun. I did my
>concentration in electromagnetics and antenna design. I took 3
>antenna classes, one of which was an independent study... what fun! I
>got to be a very good friend of MININEC.
>
>Anyway, I removed 1 turn from L1 in the VFO circuit, and I am able to
>bring the bottom freq. up to 2.085 without any trouble. However, it
>tops out at about 2.172 MHz. Any clues as to what I can do to get 100
>KHz band spread?
>
>I hope everyone doesn't mind a little hand holding here. I know I
>have a lot to learn and really want this to be a success.
>
>Thanks and 72!
>
>Jeff
>
>--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> > Jeff -
> > I have a BSEE degree also, but it had nothing to do with building
>neat
> > radios. It was a certificate of completion for five years in a
>calculus
> > monastery!
> > 73 de Lee
> > KM4YY
> >
> > ...economic history is a long record of government policies that
>failed
> > because they were designed with a bold disregard for the laws of
>economics.
> > --Ludwig von Mises
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "dek8gd"
> > To: <2n2-40@y...>
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:17 PM
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Re: The VFO ... She oscillates... but....
> >
> >
> > > Fun indeed! I finally feel like a real ham! I have been wanting
>to
> > > do this for years, but never found the right project, or the right
> > > people to work with. I can't tell you how much fun I am having
>(or
> > > how much I am learning). I wish getting my EE degree years ago
>was
> > > this much fun :)
> > >
> > > Thanks for all of the tips... and keep them coming!
> > >
> > > Jeff - K8GD
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> > > > Jeff -
> > > > You should be able to hear the oscillator in your station
>receiver -
> > > > especially if you drape a short antenna in the vicinity of the
>VFO.
> > > I would
> > > > suggest that you leave room around the VFO to solder some
>vertical
> > > pieces of
> > > > PC board. At least two of us found that necessary to quiet
>internally
> > > > generated birdies later on.
> > > >
> > > > This is great fun, isn't it? You will even enjoy helping guys
>follow in
> > > > your steps.
> > > >
> > > > Jim Kortege for the QRP Hall of Fame!!! Hear! Hear!
> > > >
> > > > 73 de Lee
> > > > KM4YY
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > There's only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn
>well
> > > > please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to
>take
> > > > the consequences.
> > > > --P.J. O'Rourke
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "dek8gd"
> > > > To: <2n2-40@y...>
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 9:09 AM
> > > > Subject: [2n2-40] Re: The VFO ... She oscillates... but....
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Thanks for the tip. I certainly don't want to blow up the
>736. From
> > > > > here on out I will have it hooked up to my frequency counter.
> I
> > > > > should be safe there.
> > > > >
> > > > > I will remove a turn at a time and see where that puts me.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks very much for the help.... I'll report back later
>tonight.
> > > > >
> > > > > Best 72.
> > > > >
> > > > > Jeff
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > > > > > At 05:00 AM 3/20/02 +0000, you wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > >I am excited! I got the VFO portion put together... and it
> > > > > > >oscillates! I am running pin 4 of T5 through a piece of
>RG58
> > > into my
> > > > > > >IC-736, and I hear a carrier!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Be careful hooking up outputs directly into a GC receiver.
>Some
> > > > > > of the rf outputs are high enough to burn things out.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > >But..... it is low in frequency. When I have the 20K pot
>turned
> > > > > > >fully counter clockwise (what should be ~2.085 MHz) the
>highest
> > > > > > >frequency I can get by adjusting TC3 & TC4 is 2.052 MHz.
>Obviously
> > > > > > >this is throwing off my upper frequency as well.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >Do I want to remove a few turns off of L1? If not... what
>should a
> > > > > > >newbie do?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Yes, take a turn off at a time, and see how far it moves.
>Easier
> > > > > > to take off another one, but adding them on is ugly, to say
>the
> > > > > > least.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 72 and GL,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jim, K8IQY
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 01:29 AM 3/21/02 +0000, Jeff wrote:
>-snip-
>
>Anyway, I removed 1 turn from L1 in the VFO circuit, and I am able to
>bring the bottom freq. up to 2.085 without any trouble. However, it
>tops out at about 2.172 MHz. Any clues as to what I can do to get 100
>KHz band spread?
Yes. Assuming that you have built the latest VFO version which uses
TC4 for setting the low end of the VFO range, and TC3 which sets the
span i.e. frequency coverage, if you are out of capacity in TC3, then
increase C7, the 120 pF capacitor with another 22 pF or so. That will
increase the coupling to the varicap diode, and should swing the VFO
over a larger range. The you'll have to reset TC3 to a lesser value
probably, or else you'll get more than 100 KHz of coverage.
>I hope everyone doesn't mind a little hand holding here.
Not at all.
> I know I
>have a lot to learn and really want this to be a success.
We all want that too......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:06 PM 3/20/02 -0800, Howard Kraus, K2UD wrote:
>When testing the transmitter, do not key down for long
>periods of time (say, 5-10 sec.), even if you have
>heat sinks on the finals. What will happen is this:
>
>You will hear "the click" in the headphones.
>
>You will say a bad word or two.
>
>You will notice a lack of RF output on your wattmeter,
>scope, receiver, coax connected to your tongue.
>
>You will kick yourself for not ordering more metal
>2N2222s.
>
>When the brown clad guy from the brown truck hands you
>that brown box, you will spend the next 1/2 hour
>replacing the finals.
>
>The metal transistors work fine in normal use, but
>will heat up quickly if keyed down for longer periods.
> Been there, done that, got the shirt (really!). Have
>spent much quality time with the iron after "the
>click."
>
>GL all es 72
>
>Howard Kraus, K2UD
Howard,
Two things strike me about your post. 1) You can improve the reliability
of the PA vastly by adding a 33 or 36 volt Zener from the collectors to
ground. The cathode goes to the collectors, and the anode to ground. That
should help immensely. 2) I think you have some sort of parasitic going
on as I can run my 2N2 rigs at keydown for 30 seconds to 1 minute with
the finals being just warm to the touch. I think something is wrong with
the finals. If you bring your rigs to Dayton, maybe you'd let me take them
home and put them on the bench. I'd like to see what is on the base
and collectors with the good scope and spectrum analyzer. Might be quite
enlightening! Of course, all of the above assumes the rig is working into
a 50 ohm load. If there is no load on the output connector at all, that
can be very stressful on the finals. It's under those conditions that
the Zener is a great help.
72 and thanks for the post,
Jim, K8IQY
Great. I'm not sure if I have TC3 & TC4 set properly, so I will go
back and check those again. If I still can't get the 100KHz spread, I
will add a little capacitance to C7.
Thanks for the help. I'll report back later tonight.
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 01:29 AM 3/21/02 +0000, Jeff wrote:
>
> >-snip-
> >
> >Anyway, I removed 1 turn from L1 in the VFO circuit, and I am able to
> >bring the bottom freq. up to 2.085 without any trouble. However, it
> >tops out at about 2.172 MHz. Any clues as to what I can do to get 100
> >KHz band spread?
>
> Yes. Assuming that you have built the latest VFO version which uses
> TC4 for setting the low end of the VFO range, and TC3 which sets the
> span i.e. frequency coverage, if you are out of capacity in TC3, then
> increase C7, the 120 pF capacitor with another 22 pF or so. That will
> increase the coupling to the varicap diode, and should swing the VFO
> over a larger range. The you'll have to reset TC3 to a lesser value
> probably, or else you'll get more than 100 KHz of coverage.
>
>
> >I hope everyone doesn't mind a little hand holding here.
>
> Not at all.
>
> > I know I
> >have a lot to learn and really want this to be a success.
>
> We all want that too......
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Hi Gang, since I got started wrong by not looking close at the
.jpg pictures, and Tom N0DSP sent me a complete layout drawing which is 1
to 1 size so I can mark every land exactly where the drawing shows it. and
run every wire the same way, I'm planning to start again.
At least I have every coil made in the reciever and it won't take
much time to transfer parts from old to new. Once the receiver is back
working without the numerous birdies, I can proceed to my transmitter
which will be the same TX Driver but will have a Radio Shack FET amplifier
that will make 5 watts easy.
If anyone has a better idea lets hear it.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen,
k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/It is a well known scientific fact that a 2N2-40 loses "MoJo" when you start
over again. I'd keep on plugging. Yours will then be more unique.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
The only options open for girls then were, of course, mother, secretary,
or teacher...I must say how lucky we are, as women, to live in an age where
"Dental Hygienist" has been added to the list.
--Roseanne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 4:33 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] ReStart
>
> Hi Gang, since I got started wrong by not looking close at the
> .jpg pictures, and Tom N0DSP sent me a complete layout drawing which is 1
> to 1 size so I can mark every land exactly where the drawing shows it. and
> run every wire the same way, I'm planning to start again.
>
> At least I have every coil made in the reciever and it won't take
> much time to transfer parts from old to new. Once the receiver is back
> working without the numerous birdies, I can proceed to my transmitter
> which will be the same TX Driver but will have a Radio Shack FET amplifier
> that will make 5 watts easy.
>
> If anyone has a better idea lets hear it.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Report:
I took one more turn off of L1 and added 18pF capacitance across T3.
The VFO now tunes from 2.085 to 2.188. The VFO seems to be very
loud with a piece of wire stuck in the antenna jack of my IC-736
and draped near the circuit board. Good enough?
Also, made the 10 turn trifilar transformers tonight. I used 3
different colors of #28 magnet wire. I clamped one end in the small
bench vice, and the other end I chucked up in the drill and slowly
twisted them together. I was surprised at how easily they went
together.
More as I progress.
Thanks for all the input, gang.
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "dek8gd" wrote:
> Great. I'm not sure if I have TC3 & TC4 set properly, so I will go
> back and check those again. If I still can't get the 100KHz spread,
I
> will add a little capacitance to C7.
>
> Thanks for the help. I'll report back later tonight.
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > At 01:29 AM 3/21/02 +0000, Jeff wrote:
> >
> > >-snip-
> > >
> > >Anyway, I removed 1 turn from L1 in the VFO circuit, and I am
able to
> > >bring the bottom freq. up to 2.085 without any trouble. However,
it
> > >tops out at about 2.172 MHz. Any clues as to what I can do to
get 100
> > >KHz band spread?
> >
> > Yes. Assuming that you have built the latest VFO version which
uses
> > TC4 for setting the low end of the VFO range, and TC3 which sets
the
> > span i.e. frequency coverage, if you are out of capacity in TC3,
then
> > increase C7, the 120 pF capacitor with another 22 pF or so. That
will
> > increase the coupling to the varicap diode, and should swing the
VFO
> > over a larger range. The you'll have to reset TC3 to a lesser
value
> > probably, or else you'll get more than 100 KHz of coverage.
> >
> >
> > >I hope everyone doesn't mind a little hand holding here.
> >
> > Not at all.
> >
> > > I know I
> > >have a lot to learn and really want this to be a success.
> >
> > We all want that too......
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
If it works, I wouldn't start over.
I'm building another one though, using as many SMD's as possible... just
because. ;)
I like Lee's answer too, yours will be unique (I'd imagine they all are in
their own way).
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 14:33:56 -0700 (MST)
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [2n2-40] ReStart
>
>
> Hi Gang, since I got started wrong by not looking close at the
> .jpg pictures, and Tom N0DSP sent me a complete layout drawing which is 1
> to 1 size so I can mark every land exactly where the drawing shows it. and
> run every wire the same way, I'm planning to start again.
>
> At least I have every coil made in the reciever and it won't take
> much time to transfer parts from old to new. Once the receiver is back
> working without the numerous birdies, I can proceed to my transmitter
> which will be the same TX Driver but will have a Radio Shack FET amplifier
> that will make 5 watts easy.
>
> If anyone has a better idea lets hear it.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 02:54 AM 3/22/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>Report:
>
>I took one more turn off of L1 and added 18pF capacitance across T3.
>The VFO now tunes from 2.085 to 2.188. The VFO seems to be very
>loud with a piece of wire stuck in the antenna jack of my IC-736
>and draped near the circuit board. Good enough?
Probably. Do you have any way of measuring the output voltage from
the VFO? If not, then we'll have to wait until the DBM is done to
know if there is enough voltage to drive the diodes.
>Also, made the 10 turn trifilar transformers tonight. I used 3
>different colors of #28 magnet wire.
A lot of folks on the list would like to know where you found #28
in 3 different colors. I'm one of them.
> I clamped one end in the small
>bench vice, and the other end I chucked up in the drill and slowly
>twisted them together. I was surprised at how easily they went
>together.
That's the right way to twist them together. Good going.
>More as I progress.
>
>Thanks for all the input, gang.
Thanks for the report Jeff.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
I have access to a scope, I just need to go borrow it. It sounds like
that might be what I want to do... especially if I need to debug
things as I go along. The other option I suppose is to go buy
one..... Hmmm... I wonder how the XYL would be with that :)
As far as the magnet wire, I got it from Dan's Small Parts and Kits.
** From Dan's web page
DOUBLE BALANCED MIXER WIRE KIT
30 FEET OF #28 Magnet wire. This kit contains three
different 10 foot pieces of wire, each a different color.
**
I paid $1.35 for 3 10 foot pieces. Hopefully that will be enough to
finish the radio.
Thanks for the help.
Jeff
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 02:54 AM 3/22/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>
> >Report:
> >
> >I took one more turn off of L1 and added 18pF capacitance across T3.
> >The VFO now tunes from 2.085 to 2.188. The VFO seems to be very
> >loud with a piece of wire stuck in the antenna jack of my IC-736
> >and draped near the circuit board. Good enough?
>
> Probably. Do you have any way of measuring the output voltage from
> the VFO? If not, then we'll have to wait until the DBM is done to
> know if there is enough voltage to drive the diodes.
>
>
> >Also, made the 10 turn trifilar transformers tonight. I used 3
> >different colors of #28 magnet wire.
>
> A lot of folks on the list would like to know where you found #28
> in 3 different colors. I'm one of them.
>
> > I clamped one end in the small
> >bench vice, and the other end I chucked up in the drill and slowly
> >twisted them together. I was surprised at how easily they went
> >together.
>
> That's the right way to twist them together. Good going.
>
>
> >More as I progress.
> >
> >Thanks for all the input, gang.
>
> Thanks for the report Jeff.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
At 08:28 AM 3/22/02, you wrote:
>If it works, I wouldn't start over.
Amen, Ill second that, my final working model (2n2-40+ #29) wont win
a beauty contest and the board was tinned copper clad PCB. The RF Front End and
Filter section have no copper showing. But Im happy with it and it works.
>I'm building another one though, using as many SMD's as possible... just
>because. ;)
Pictures John. PICTURES
>I like Lee's answer too, yours will be unique (I'd imagine they all are in
>their own way).
Each model is unique Im sure.. Karl, with 3 2n2222 in the PA (2 watts)
I caught 16 Pesky Texan Armadillo"s last week from Maryland. ( The state
next to where Delaware was).....
Wes W3ERU
>73,
>
>John, N1QO
>
> > From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 14:33:56 -0700 (MST)
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [2n2-40] ReStart
> >
> >
> > Hi Gang, since I got started wrong by not looking close at the
> > .jpg pictures, and Tom N0DSP sent me a complete layout drawing which is 1
> > to 1 size so I can mark every land exactly where the drawing shows it. and
> > run every wire the same way, I'm planning to start again.
> >
> > At least I have every coil made in the reciever and it won't take
> > much time to transfer parts from old to new. Once the receiver is back
> > working without the numerous birdies, I can proceed to my transmitter
> > which will be the same TX Driver but will have a Radio Shack FET amplifier
> > that will make 5 watts easy.
> >
> > If anyone has a better idea lets hear it.
> >
> > --
> > Yours Truly,
> >
> > - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> > http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
How do I wind T6? If someone has a picture of what T6 looks like when
it is wound, I would really like to see it. I want to make sure I get
this correct, as this one seems to be the most confusing of the
transformers.
Thanks group!
72
Jeff - K8GD
|
1899|1898|2002-03-22 22:17:31|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: T6 Help|At 02:35 AM 3/23/02 +0000, you wrote:
>How do I wind T6? If someone has a picture of what T6 looks like when
>it is wound, I would really like to see it. I want to make sure I get
>this correct, as this one seems to be the most confusing of the
>transformers.
>
>Thanks group!
>
>72
>
>Jeff - K8GD
Jeff,
Go to the Yahoo web page and look for the "T6 Pix" in the photo section.
I just uploaded a set of 5 pictures that may help some. The secret is
to keep winding in the same direction after the tap. The 1 turn needs
to be phased correctly or the RF amp will oscillate, but that may be
obvious after you get the main dual winding done. Pay close
attention to the dots marking the start of each winding. That's the
key to getting the phasing correct.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Thanks! Those pictures make it so much clearer. I think I have it
wound correctly. I'll keep plugging away at it here and report back
with status.
Thanks very much for your patients with a QRP newbie. When I am up to
speed, I hope to be as helpful as you.
72
Jeff - K8GD
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 02:35 AM 3/23/02 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >How do I wind T6? If someone has a picture of what T6 looks like
> when
> >it is wound, I would really like to see it. I want to make sure I
> get
> >this correct, as this one seems to be the most confusing of the
> >transformers.
> >
> >Thanks group!
> >
> >72
> >
> >Jeff - K8GD
>
> Jeff,
>
> Go to the Yahoo web page and look for the "T6 Pix" in the photo
> section.
> I just uploaded a set of 5 pictures that may help some. The secret is
>
> to keep winding in the same direction after the tap. The 1 turn needs
>
> to be phased correctly or the RF amp will oscillate, but that may be
> obvious after you get the main dual winding done. Pay close
> attention to the dots marking the start of each winding. That's the
> key to getting the phasing correct.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Well... I completed the front end (Rx Input Fileter, RF Amp, and DB
Mixer). I hooked T4 pin 4,5 to my GC receiver tuned to 4.915Mhz. I
can hear my Heathkit HW-101 playing into the dummy load, but I don't
hear any other signals. Should I? I have my vertical antenna
connected to the wiper of POT 5. I thought I should hear other
signals on the band.
Still, I am very pleased that I can at least hear my HW-101!
Thoughts?
Thanks for all of the help. You have no idea how much I appreciate
it!
72
Jeff - K8GD
|
1902|1891|2002-03-23 11:01:55|John Wagner|Re: ReStart|>> I'm building another one though, using as many SMD's as possible... just
>> because. ;)
>
>
> Pictures John. PICTURES
>
I'm working on it Wes! The SMD's are so small they don't show up too well
with my camera. I'm trying to talk my Dad into coming over today and
bringing his newer [better] camera.
73,
John, N1QO
>
> Wes W3ERU
>
>
>
>
>> 73,
>>
>> John, N1QO
>>
>>> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
>>> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>>> Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 14:33:56 -0700 (MST)
>>> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Subject: [2n2-40] ReStart
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Gang, since I got started wrong by not looking close at the
>>> .jpg pictures, and Tom N0DSP sent me a complete layout drawing which is 1
>>> to 1 size so I can mark every land exactly where the drawing shows it. and
>>> run every wire the same way, I'm planning to start again.
>>>
>>> At least I have every coil made in the reciever and it won't take
>>> much time to transfer parts from old to new. Once the receiver is back
>>> working without the numerous birdies, I can proceed to my transmitter
>>> which will be the same TX Driver but will have a Radio Shack FET amplifier
>>> that will make 5 watts easy.
>>>
>>> If anyone has a better idea lets hear it.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Yours Truly,
>>>
>>> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
>>> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hi guys,
Sorry to keep bringing up the same problem! I seem to be stuck. The
Tx still isn't working and I'm trying to figure out where to go from
here. My message from last Sunday explains in detail and here is
what I've done since. With a scope TC7 and TC8 did peak the signal,
but Jim said the signals I'm reading are way too small.
I've replaced Q14 and Q16, I've rewound T11, T12 and T13 using
different colored magnet wire, so I THINK I have them hooked up
properly. I've checked the Tx section against the schematic several
times and think it is right.
I'm not sure if I'm reading my scope correctly. The strange thing is
the following readings using my scope and then a DVM. These readings
are with Tx keyed.
DVM.. Q14 - E 5.18V, B 4.28V, C 10.78V
Scope Q14 - E 400mV, B 500mV, C 0mV
T11 side of C46, 0mV on DVM and 125mV on scope. Couldn't figure out
how to get a reading on a 9V battery, wanted to use it for
reference. Also can't get the 13.61V to read on the scope. Guess
I'm really wondering what to make of the scope vs DVM readings on
Q14. Sorry to ask such silly questions.
I'm struggling here fella's. But, I'm still trying.
Thanks for your help!
Tom
N0DSP
|
1904|1903|2002-03-23 14:10:59|John Wagner|Re: Tx, still trying!|Hey Tom,
Hang in there, you'll get it going...
> I've replaced Q14 and Q16, I've rewound T11, T12 and T13 using
> different colored magnet wire, so I THINK I have them hooked up
> properly. I've checked the Tx section against the schematic several
> times and think it is right.
>
> I'm not sure if I'm reading my scope correctly. The strange thing is
> the following readings using my scope and then a DVM. These readings
> are with Tx keyed.
>
> DVM.. Q14 - E 5.18V, B 4.28V, C 10.78V
>
> Scope Q14 - E 400mV, B 500mV, C 0mV
The DVM is reading DC, and if you've got the scope set properly (chances are
yes) then it's reading AC, or RF - which is what you're really interested
in.
>
> T11 side of C46, 0mV on DVM and 125mV on scope. Couldn't figure out
> how to get a reading on a 9V battery, wanted to use it for
> reference. Also can't get the 13.61V to read on the scope. Guess
Set the scope for DC and you should get a reading - but you don't want to
look at DC in the transmitter, you want to look at AC. The transistors are
biased so they show DC voltages, when you read DC voltages, you're looking
at the DC bias of those transistors. The reason they are biased is because
transistors can't amplify a negative voltage, so if you didn't bias it they
swing up, down to zero for the negative part of the cycle and then back up -
a half wave instead of a full one. The Elmer 101 website (which I don't have
the URL of) has a good explanation of this. The ARRL Handbook does as well
(in fact it's a great explanation).
> I'm really wondering what to make of the scope vs DVM readings on
> Q14. Sorry to ask such silly questions.
>
> I'm struggling here fella's. But, I'm still trying.
Don't sweat it - just get a little more info and you'll be on your way!
First thing you want to do is unhook the wiper side of POT4 and the Tx power
to Q17, this will protect your finals and let you troubleshoot a section at
a time.
Set your scope for AC (which I think it is), key the rig, then look at the
Tx LO on T11 pin 1. I don't have my rig open so I can't make measurements -
download the PDF file Jim put up here that has Tx O'Scope pics of his rig.
Follow the RF using the schematic and your oscope. You should see the TX VFO
on pin 4/5 of T11. On T12, pin 1 you should see the mixed signal of the TX
Lo and the TX VFO. From there follow the RF through to T13 pin 2 and pin 4.
If you lose it somewhere in there, you are probably looking at what your
problem is (note: I originally had a problem in the Tx Cascode RF Amp, it's
an easy spot to make a mistake). If all looks good, reconnect the wiper of
pot 4 and Tx power to Q17 and follow the RF out to your finals..
I'm typing this just looking at a schematic, I don't have my rig open in
front of me - you've been warned!
Hang in there - we're going to get you on the air soon!!!
73,
John, N1QO
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Tom
> N0DSP
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hi Guys,
I have posted some photos of my scope readings in the photo section,
under N0DSP. Please check them out and let me know what you think.
I'm sorry the aren't clear, not a great camera for closeups! Looking
for any help you have to offer. Maybe I'm reading the scope wrong...
doubt it....
Well, I'll be trying again in the early AM hours to get something
figured out.
Thanks for you patience with me and my little TROUBLEMAKER!
Tom
N0DSP
ps.... will have the working 2N2-40 with me at Dayton. My first trip
to FDIM and looking forward to it! I hope to meet many of you there.
|
1906|1891|2002-03-23 20:43:08|Karl F. Larsen|Re: ReStart|Hi John and the group. Lots of differnet new starts going on. I will watch
your Surface Mount effort with interest John. I'm beginning to learn the
art of lead components on a manhatten construction.
I borrowed a hand round punch which is a dangerous instrument. I
smashed my thumb some how. I'm making 1/8" round pads and very surprised!
They stick fine and you can get 4 leads on one. They look really nice. My
skill is improving and I'm taking all the time I want. So far I have the
voltage tuned oscillator done and working even better than it was. Now
have the front end started with the double balanced mixer done right this
time since the coils are hooked up right now.
Going to fool with the punch some. It must be easier than it is
now if the punch is set up right. Going to study it tonight.
On Sat, 23 Mar 2002, John Wagner wrote:
> >> I'm building another one though, using as many SMD's as possible... just
> >> because. ;)
> >
> >
> > Pictures John. PICTURES
> >
>
> I'm working on it Wes! The SMD's are so small they don't show up too well
> with my camera. I'm trying to talk my Dad into coming over today and
> bringing his newer [better] camera.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> >
> > Wes W3ERU
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> 73,
> >>
> >> John, N1QO
> >>
> >>> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <k5di@zianet.com>
> >>> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> >>> Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 14:33:56 -0700 (MST)
> >>> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> >>> Subject: [2n2-40] ReStart
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Hi Gang, since I got started wrong by not looking close at the
> >>> .jpg pictures, and Tom N0DSP sent me a complete layout drawing which is 1
> >>> to 1 size so I can mark every land exactly where the drawing shows it. and
> >>> run every wire the same way, I'm planning to start again.
> >>>
> >>> At least I have every coil made in the reciever and it won't take
> >>> much time to transfer parts from old to new. Once the receiver is back
> >>> working without the numerous birdies, I can proceed to my transmitter
> >>> which will be the same TX Driver but will have a Radio Shack FET amplifier
> >>> that will make 5 watts easy.
> >>>
> >>> If anyone has a better idea lets hear it.
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>> Yours Truly,
> >>>
> >>> - Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
> >>> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
> >>>
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--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
At 06:45 PM 3/23/02 -0700, Karl F. Larsen, k5di wrote:
>-snip-
>
> I borrowed a hand round punch which is a dangerous instrument. I
>smashed my thumb some how.
I carved a pair of wooden pads which protect the lower handle when
it is mounted in a vise. I added a piece of conduit about 30 inches
long to the upper handle by pushing it on. Lots of leverage now, and
I don't get smashed fingers and thumbs like you experienced. Been
there and done that too.
> I'm making 1/8" round pads and very surprised!
>They stick fine and you can get 4 leads on one.
Yes, amazing isn't it. I can actually get 6 leads on an 1/8 inch
round pad with careful lead dress and keeping the component ends short
enough that they don't pass the center point of the pad.
> They look really nice. My
>skill is improving and I'm taking all the time I want.
Good Karl; that's the way you want to build Manhattan-style. Slow
and controlled, so that you see what you've done, and where you
are going. Keeps from running into problems. Doing little sketches
of a stage showing component orientations and connections also helps
a lot at the beginning of the learning curve.
> So far I have the
>voltage tuned oscillator done and working even better than it was. Now
>have the front end started with the double balanced mixer done right this
>time since the coils are hooked up right now.
Also good news.
> Going to fool with the punch some. It must be easier than it is
>now if the punch is set up right. Going to study it tonight.
You might want to try my setup with the vise holding it and the extension
on the upper handle. Works very well that way.
72 Karl, and thanks for the update. GL with your building.
Jim, K8IQY
At 12:37 AM 3/24/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi Guys,
Greetings Tom,
>I have posted some photos of my scope readings in the photo section,
>under N0DSP. Please check them out and let me know what you think.
I think you are using a 10X probe on that scope, but the scope doesn't
have automatic sensing of the probe being used. My guess is that all
of the voltages you are measuring are actually 10X larger than you think
they are. That said, some of the waveforms look good, but other
measurements need to be made. I sure like to see the same set as I
posted on Yahoo. That would help a lot in determining what is going on.
I also think you have Pot4 miswired still, as the output on the wiper is
higher than the hot end of the pot coming off of T13, pin 4. That just
can't be.
To get a scope plot of either the VFO or LO running without the opposite
signal into the single balanced mixer, just short out the base of Q14
to kill the LO, or short out the base of Q1 to kill the VFO. It won't
hurt the stage at all, since the base biase resistors from the power source
will only supply a few milliamps at best.
>
>I'm sorry the aren't clear, not a great camera for closeups!
More than adequate to see what needs to be seen. Does the scope have
a calibrated timebase? And if so, are you in the calibrated mode?
> Looking
>for any help you have to offer. Maybe I'm reading the scope wrong...
>doubt it....
As before, I'm guessing you're using a 10X probe, so all of the readings
are actually ten times more voltage than what the vertical amp is set to.
>Well, I'll be trying again in the early AM hours to get something
>figured out.
OK....your doing a great job, so don't give up and get discouraged.
>
>
>Thanks for you patience with me and my little TROUBLEMAKER!
Looks like a very nice build job to me. Very neat and organized. It's
gonna work like mad when you finally find the build bugs.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>Tom
>N0DSP
>
>ps.... will have the working 2N2-40 with me at Dayton. My first trip
>to FDIM and looking forward to it! I hope to meet many of you there.
I'll be there!!!
At 03:10 PM 3/23/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>Well... I completed the front end (Rx Input Fileter, RF Amp, and DB
>Mixer). I hooked T4 pin 4,5 to my GC receiver tuned to 4.915Mhz. I
>can hear my Heathkit HW-101 playing into the dummy load, but I don't
>hear any other signals. Should I?
Sure should, and they ought to be at a decent signal level. Something
wrong in the front-end. Are TC1 and TC2 showing two tuning peaks in
a full revolution?
It may be that you have the 1 turn winding on T6 incorrect, and the
RF amplifier is not amplifying, but oscillating like mad. Do you
have any equipment to check that out. Even an RF probe will tell
if it is correctly wired. If it is amplifying, you'll probably not
detect anything with the RF probe, as the signal levels are too small.
If it is oscillating, you'll have lots of signal.
> I have my vertical antenna
>connected to the wiper of POT 5.
Do you have the rest of the Rx T/R switch built? If not, then the antenna
should be connected to the top, or hot end of Pot5, not the wiper. The
wiper goes to the 3 turn primary of T1. If you also have the components
for the Rx T/R switch built, does tuning TC9 also result in two peaks
in signal as it is rotated through 360 degrees?
> I thought I should hear other
>signals on the band.
You should.......
>Still, I am very pleased that I can at least hear my HW-101!
>
>Thoughts?
You've got mine.......
>Thanks for all of the help. You have no idea how much I appreciate
>it!
I have a pretty good idea after doing this for several years. :-)
72 and thanks for the information,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
My answers below. In looking at the DB mixer last night, I found that
it was wired incorrectly. I am using the AA0ZZ layout and I
believe it shows it incorrectly there. So far, that is the only error
I have found. Still, not much other than my HW-101 getting through.
> At 03:10 PM 3/23/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>
> >Well... I completed the front end (Rx Input Fileter, RF Amp, and DB
> >Mixer). I hooked T4 pin 4,5 to my GC receiver tuned to 4.915Mhz.
I
> >can hear my Heathkit HW-101 playing into the dummy load, but I
don't
> >hear any other signals. Should I?
>
> Sure should, and they ought to be at a decent signal level.
Something
> wrong in the front-end. Are TC1 and TC2 showing two tuning peaks in
> a full revolution?
Yes. I see two distinct peaks through 360 degrees on both TC1 and
TC2.
>
> It may be that you have the 1 turn winding on T6 incorrect, and the
> RF amplifier is not amplifying, but oscillating like mad. Do you
> have any equipment to check that out. Even an RF probe will tell
> if it is correctly wired. If it is amplifying, you'll probably not
> detect anything with the RF probe, as the signal levels are too
small.
> If it is oscillating, you'll have lots of signal.
I don't have an RF probe, or the scope yet, so I can't check this.
Maybe I should just reverse the 1 turn winding and see what happens.
I think have it wired correctly, since the turn goes the same
direction as the 4 & 11 turns.
>
> > I have my vertical antenna
> >connected to the wiper of POT 5.
>
> Do you have the rest of the Rx T/R switch built? If not, then the
antenna
> should be connected to the top, or hot end of Pot5, not the wiper.
The
> wiper goes to the 3 turn primary of T1. If you also have the
components
> for the Rx T/R switch built, does tuning TC9 also result in two
peaks
> in signal as it is rotated through 360 degrees?
I do have the Rx T/R switch built. I also see two peaks when rotating
TC9 through 360 degrees.
>
> > I thought I should hear other
> >signals on the band.
>
> You should.......
>
>
> >Still, I am very pleased that I can at least hear my HW-101!
> >
> >Thoughts?
>
> You've got mine.......
>
>
> >Thanks for all of the help. You have no idea how much I appreciate
> >it!
>
> I have a pretty good idea after doing this for several years. :-)
>
> 72 and thanks for the information,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
I know I am close and very excited. I'll keep you posted on my
progress.
Thanks again.
Jeff - K8GD
Hi Jim, that is a real good idea! I will get some wood and see what I can
do. Or, may try some old hose I have that will slip on the lower handle.
I found last night that it matters how far in the bottom part of the punch
is. It screws in and out and I was using it too high. I screwed it down to
where it's just level with the part it screws into and now the handle
comes way down and I can get a hold of it better. But the vise and pipe is
the proper way.
On Sat, 23 Mar 2002, Jim Kortge, K8IQY wrote:
> At 06:45 PM 3/23/02 -0700, Karl F. Larsen, k5di wrote:
>
> >-snip-
> >
> > I borrowed a hand round punch which is a dangerous instrument. I
> >smashed my thumb some how.
>
> I carved a pair of wooden pads which protect the lower handle when
> it is mounted in a vise. I added a piece of conduit about 30 inches
> long to the upper handle by pushing it on. Lots of leverage now, and
> I don't get smashed fingers and thumbs like you experienced. Been
> there and done that too.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, k5di@arrl.net (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
Jim,
Thanks for checking out my pictures!
>In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> I think you are using a 10X probe on that scope, but the scope
doesn't have automatic sensing of the probe being used.
Jim, You are correct on the X10 probe!
>My guess is that all of the voltages you are measuring are actually
10X larger than you think they are.
Sure hope so!
>I'd sure like to see the same set as I posted on Yahoo. That would
help a lot in determining what is going on.
Jim, I posted pictures of readings from the same places as yours, for
the Tx LO, Tx SB Mixer and the Tx Cascode RF Amp. Guess we can move
on to the rest once we figure this part out.
> I also think you have Pot4 miswired still, as the output on the
wiper is higher than the hot end of the pot coming off of T13, pin
4. That just can't be.
Very well could be, maybe I'll put the fixed resistor back in and
look at it with the scope again.
>Does the scope have a calibrated timebase? And if so, are you in
the calibrated mode?
Yes it does, and it is in that position.
> OK....your doing a great job, so don't give up and get discouraged.
Thanks Jim, and thank you for always being there for ALL of us. How
could we be so lucky!?!
> Looks like a very nice build job to me. Very neat and organized.
It's gonna work like mad when you finally find the build bugs.
Thank you, I'm very proud of my work. It will be GREAT when it's
working properly. The local Ham that helped me with my reciever,
said he was very impressed with my little rig! I have an extra QRP-L
reprint that I'm going to take to him. Who knows, maybe we'll get
another one on the air. I'm sure he won't need as much help as
me. :)
Thanks again! I'll bring "Troublemaker" with me to Dayton to show
off. I'm looking forward to shaking your hand.
Best regards!
72
Tom
N0DSP
Hey gang...any of you going to FDIM this year? How about bringing
your 2N2's that you have built from this list for a display session on
vendor/club night. I know we don't have T shirts or secret handshakes
but I feel like a club member reading along and seeing everyone
concentrating on the same end result.
I'll double check but I am sure the Flying Pigs will have room at
their tables if a few of you want to set up your 2N2's and talk to the
folks about them.
73
|
1914|1913|2002-03-24 19:34:13|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Idea|At 04:38 PM 3/24/02 -0500, Brian Murrey wrote:
>Hey gang...any of you going to FDIM this year?
I sure am. Would not miss it for anything.
> How about bringing
>your 2N2's that you have built from this list for a display session on
>vendor/club night.
I'll have my two there.
> I know we don't have T shirts
Well acutally I do have a 2N2/40 T shirt. I'll wear that too.
>or secret handshakes
>but I feel like a club member reading along and seeing everyone
>concentrating on the same end result.
It does kinda feel that way doesn't it.
>I'll double check but I am sure the Flying Pigs will have room at
>their tables if a few of you want to set up your 2N2's and talk to the
>folks about them.
Been doing something like that for the past 3 years. Lots of fun,
and you get to meet all the folks who post to the QRP-L list and
others.
72 and see you at Dayton FDIM
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:38 PM 3/24/02 -0500, Brian Murrey wrote:
>Hey gang...any of you going to FDIM this year? How about bringing
>your 2N2's that you have built from this list for a display session on
>vendor/club night. I know we don't have T shirts or secret handshakes
>but I feel like a club member reading along and seeing everyone
>concentrating on the same end result.
>
>I'll double check but I am sure the Flying Pigs will have room at
>their tables if a few of you want to set up your 2N2's and talk to the
>folks about them.
>
>73
>
I'll bring two to show and tell.
And there is a T-shirt. The AZ sQRPions had one made up
a few years ago and I'll bring one also for show and tell. I
won't be wearing it as I know how the Dayton WX is around
Hamvention time.... :-)
dit dit
Chuck Adams, K7QO CP-60
k7qo@earthlink.net http://www.qsl.net/k7qo Moving to Arizona? --- Bring your own water, please.
Great!
I saw your handiwork last year at FDIM. You do excellent work. It's a true
work of art.
I still haven't had time to get much done on mine. I'd like to have it ready
by FDIM but no bets. Family life issues are keeping me off the air (caring
for a terminally ill parent) and off the slobbering iron lately.
I see the FDIM builder contest is about "Homebrew Tools/Diagnostics"..so I
hope to at least get a watt and SWR meter cobbled together so I can at least
say I entered. My SMK-1 in the plastic bowl of pork rinds won the
"Honorable Mention - Best attempt at Bribing Judges with Food" last year.
Hahaha
73
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2002 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Idea
> At 04:38 PM 3/24/02 -0500, Brian Murrey wrote:
>
> >Hey gang...any of you going to FDIM this year?
>
> I sure am. Would not miss it for anything.
>
> > How about bringing
> >your 2N2's that you have built from this list for a display session on
> >vendor/club night.
>
> I'll have my two there.
>
> > I know we don't have T shirts
>
> Well acutally I do have a 2N2/40 T shirt. I'll wear that too.
>
> >or secret handshakes
> >but I feel like a club member reading along and seeing everyone
> >concentrating on the same end result.
>
> It does kinda feel that way doesn't it.
>
>
> >I'll double check but I am sure the Flying Pigs will have room at
> >their tables if a few of you want to set up your 2N2's and talk to the
> >folks about them.
>
> Been doing something like that for the past 3 years. Lots of fun,
> and you get to meet all the folks who post to the QRP-L list and
> others.
>
> 72 and see you at Dayton FDIM
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hi group. Sorry if this message is a repeat,
but I am having trouble getting my messages to post
using the Yahoo group form.
Anyway, I was inspecting my handiwork, when I discovered
that I wound the transformer in the VFO incorrectly.
Now, when I tune to 4.915 on the GC receiver, I hear
CW! It isn't very strong, but I do hear many stations
as I tune around the band! I am also hearing some AM
broadcast stations in the area here, and they seem to tune
backwards, I think indicating that they might be mixing
with second harmonic of the VFO. Is this something I should
be concerned with, or am I ready to start the next stage?
Thanks for being patient with a newbie, and as always
best 72 to all.
Jeff - K8GD
Dayton, OH --- See you at FDIM!
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
At 03:14 PM 3/25/02 -0500, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>Hi group. Sorry if this message is a repeat,
>but I am having trouble getting my messages to post
>using the Yahoo group form.
>
>Anyway, I was inspecting my handiwork, when I discovered
>that I wound the transformer in the VFO incorrectly.
What do you think you did wrong?
>Now, when I tune to 4.915 on the GC receiver, I hear
>CW! It isn't very strong, but I do hear many stations
>as I tune around the band! I am also hearing some AM
>broadcast stations in the area here, and they seem to tune
>backwards, I think indicating that they might be mixing
>with second harmonic of the VFO.
Yes, as possibility, but usually that sort of thing happens
when the DBM isn't built correctly. Make sure you have each
of the windings done as shown in the schematic, and that each
diode is installed with it's anode connected to the cathod of the
next diode. They should form a ring when all 4 are connected
correctly. The compromised sensitivity and presence of BC stations
sounds remarkably similar to N1QO's rig before I rewired the
DBM transformers.
> Is this something I should
>be concerned with, or am I ready to start the next stage?
I think you may still have a problem, but not sure without knowing
more regarding what you are hearing.
>Thanks for being patient with a newbie, and as always
>best 72 to all.
72 and thanks for the info Jeff. Sounds like it is getting better.
Jim, K8IQY
*snip*
> >Anyway, I was inspecting my handiwork, when I discovered
> >that I wound the transformer in the VFO incorrectly.
>
> What do you think you did wrong?
I had the incorrect number of turns for the primary and secondary. I
think what happened is that I was lookin gat the example on the photos
section of the forum, and wound that one instead. That's what I get
for winding transformers late at night. It is now wound with the
correct 16T primary and 8T secondary.
>
> >Now, when I tune to 4.915 on the GC receiver, I hear
> >CW! It isn't very strong, but I do hear many stations
> >as I tune around the band! I am also hearing some AM
> >broadcast stations in the area here, and they seem to tune
> >backwards, I think indicating that they might be mixing
> >with second harmonic of the VFO.
>
> Yes, as possibility, but usually that sort of thing happens
> when the DBM isn't built correctly. Make sure you have each
> of the windings done as shown in the schematic, and that each
> diode is installed with it's anode connected to the cathod of the
> next diode. They should form a ring when all 4 are connected
> correctly. The compromised sensitivity and presence of BC stations
> sounds remarkably similar to N1QO's rig before I rewired the
> DBM transformers.
I'm nearly 100% sure I have the DBM wired correctly. After reading
the past posts on the forum, I thought that I might have done
something wrong. I have gone over that section of the FE at least 5
times and it looks ok to me. I'll check it again just to be sure.
It's too bad I don't have a second set of eyes to look at :)
>
> > Is this something I should
> >be concerned with, or am I ready to start the next stage?
>
> I think you may still have a problem, but not sure without knowing
> more regarding what you are hearing.
The BC stations aren't overwhelming, I can just hear them. I can hear
many CW stations, some of which are very pronounced.
>
>
> >Thanks for being patient with a newbie, and as always
> >best 72 to all.
>
> 72 and thanks for the info Jeff. Sounds like it is getting better.
Yes, things are getting better. This is a pretty advanced project for
a newbie, and I feel like I am progressing very well. I sincerely
appreciate your help.
Jeff - K8GD
I sent out a msg last night about uploading some pics of #2 to the n1qo-smt
photo album on the Yahoo! site - didn't ever see the msg show up.
Anyway, I made one change in the Rx/Tx driver since those pictures were
taken. I just got some .22uF SMD's, so I pulled the leaded part and mounted
the .22uF piggyback on top of the 100K SMD - it worked great! Now there are
only three leaded resistors in the Rx/Tx driver, everything else is an SMD
including the transistors. Looking at it now, I see I could have saved even
more space by routing the 2.7K resistors over the top. I'll leave it, for
now, but might reconfigure if I get bored tonight.
The 2n2222's from Brian arrived and I have mounted three of them on SMP's
(Surface Mount Pads) for the VFO. I've got the T50-7 wound. I've got 13 more
reels of SMT parts coming (watch QRP-L - I'll be selling a large chunk of
them if you're interested) and a Dan's order. The VFO should be interesting,
I'm going to lay it out on paper a few times I think. I may try to use a
computer graphics program to do it. There is a layout program on Linux that
used quite a while ago that lets you create custom libraries of symbols -
might be just the trick.
73,
John, N1QO
|
1921|1921|2002-03-27 08:09:47|dek8gd|DBM question|Jim and group,
I think I still may have a problem in the DBM as you suggested. The
diodes are installed correctly, I'm sure of that. Let me make sure I
understand the trifilar transformers. When I have them wound, I am
assuming leads 1(red), 3(copper), and 5(green) are on one side, and
2(red), 4(copper), and 6(green) are on the other.
For T3, I have leads 2(red), 4(copper), and 5(green) twisted together,
tinned and soldered to ground. The remaining leads 1(red), 3(copper),
and 6(green) are connected to their prospective places.
Am I on the right track here, or did I make a newbie mistake?
T4 is wired in a smiliar fashion.
I'm sorry to be asking so many questions about this. I have never
done this before. I feel bad that I'm having so much trouble with
this part of the radio. I'm not discouraged though, in fact, I'm very
excited witht the fact that I can hear CW! This is the first receiver
I have built, and the fact it is working, even marginally, is
satisfying. I know I'm close!
Thank you for your time.
72
Jeff - K8GD
|
1922|1921|2002-03-27 08:25:55|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: DBM question|At 01:09 PM 3/27/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>Jim and group,
>
>I think I still may have a problem in the DBM as you suggested. The
>diodes are installed correctly, I'm sure of that. Let me make sure I
>understand the trifilar transformers. When I have them wound, I am
>assuming leads 1(red), 3(copper), and 5(green) are on one side, and
>2(red), 4(copper), and 6(green) are on the other.
That's correct........
>For T3, I have leads 2(red), 4(copper), and 5(green) twisted together,
>tinned and soldered to ground. The remaining leads 1(red), 3(copper),
>and 6(green) are connected to their prospective places.
That's also done correctly. Having colored wired sure helps with
the description!!
>Am I on the right track here, or did I make a newbie mistake?
You've got it correct.
>T4 is wired in a smiliar fashion.
OK....then you've got it all done correctly.
>I'm sorry to be asking so many questions about this.
Not a problem, that's how we all learn. It's one thing to read about
a DBM in a book, and quite another to actually build one and see
that it actually works as described.
> I have never
>done this before.
You are not alone. Several on in group have built their very first
DBM and struggled getting all of those leads connected to the correct
mate or part.
> I feel bad that I'm having so much trouble with
>this part of the radio.
No need to feel that way. You're progressing fine. This isn't
easy stuff, especially doing it for the first time. It can be
rather daunting.
> I'm not discouraged though, in fact, I'm very
>excited witht the fact that I can hear CW! This is the first receiver
>I have built, and the fact it is working, even marginally, is
>satisfying. I know I'm close!
I'd guess it is working fine, and the extra signals you are hearning
could be getting into the GC receiver through the hookup between the
output of the DBM and the input of the GC receiver.
I'd continue on, and build up the next set of stages so that you
can take the output off of the IF amplifier. Then the signals should
only be those in the 40 meter band, and they will be loud in the GC
receiver. It may even overload it on the stronger ones.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
Thanks for the confirmation on the DBM transformers.
Last night I built the Mixer Amp, Variable Xtal filter, and IF amp.
When I listen to the output (C26) on my GC receiver set to 4.915, the
signals I can hear are stronger ( some to S5 on the S meter ). I'm
still not hearing everything on the band though. I am pretty sure I
have TC1, TC2, and TC9 peaked (they each have distinct peaks through
360 degrees). Does this sound right?
Thanks for the enouragement Jim. You are great!
Jeff
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 01:09 PM 3/27/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>
> >Jim and group,
> >
> >I think I still may have a problem in the DBM as you suggested. The
> >diodes are installed correctly, I'm sure of that. Let me make sure I
> >understand the trifilar transformers. When I have them wound, I am
> >assuming leads 1(red), 3(copper), and 5(green) are on one side, and
> >2(red), 4(copper), and 6(green) are on the other.
>
> That's correct........
>
>
> >For T3, I have leads 2(red), 4(copper), and 5(green) twisted together,
> >tinned and soldered to ground. The remaining leads 1(red), 3(copper),
> >and 6(green) are connected to their prospective places.
>
> That's also done correctly. Having colored wired sure helps with
> the description!!
>
>
> >Am I on the right track here, or did I make a newbie mistake?
>
> You've got it correct.
>
>
> >T4 is wired in a smiliar fashion.
>
> OK....then you've got it all done correctly.
>
>
> >I'm sorry to be asking so many questions about this.
>
> Not a problem, that's how we all learn. It's one thing to read about
> a DBM in a book, and quite another to actually build one and see
> that it actually works as described.
>
> > I have never
> >done this before.
>
> You are not alone. Several on in group have built their very first
> DBM and struggled getting all of those leads connected to the correct
> mate or part.
>
>
> > I feel bad that I'm having so much trouble with
> >this part of the radio.
>
> No need to feel that way. You're progressing fine. This isn't
> easy stuff, especially doing it for the first time. It can be
> rather daunting.
>
> > I'm not discouraged though, in fact, I'm very
> >excited witht the fact that I can hear CW! This is the first receiver
> >I have built, and the fact it is working, even marginally, is
> >satisfying. I know I'm close!
>
> I'd guess it is working fine, and the extra signals you are hearning
> could be getting into the GC receiver through the hookup between the
> output of the DBM and the input of the GC receiver.
>
> I'd continue on, and build up the next set of stages so that you
> can take the output off of the IF amplifier. Then the signals should
> only be those in the 40 meter band, and they will be loud in the GC
> receiver. It may even overload it on the stronger ones.
>
> 72 and GL,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Wow - moving right along!
TC1 and TC2 are tuned together, so make sure once you find the peak in one,
you adjust the other one for peak, then go back to the other and make sure
it's still peaked.
Triple check your crystal filter. Check the connections to the variable
filter pot. If you have an o'scope and a RF noise source, try to trace a
known signal through and see if it gets lost somewhere. Jim posted a set of
signal traces through the entire recv change (and xmit chain) that are
invaluable.
Oh yeah, upload pictures. :)
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:57:56 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: DBM question
>
> Jim,
>
> Thanks for the confirmation on the DBM transformers.
>
> Last night I built the Mixer Amp, Variable Xtal filter, and IF amp.
> When I listen to the output (C26) on my GC receiver set to 4.915, the
> signals I can hear are stronger ( some to S5 on the S meter ). I'm
> still not hearing everything on the band though. I am pretty sure I
> have TC1, TC2, and TC9 peaked (they each have distinct peaks through
> 360 degrees). Does this sound right?
>
> Thanks for the enouragement Jim. You are great!
>
> Jeff
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>> At 01:09 PM 3/27/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>>
>>> Jim and group,
>>>
>>> I think I still may have a problem in the DBM as you suggested. The
>>> diodes are installed correctly, I'm sure of that. Let me make sure I
>>> understand the trifilar transformers. When I have them wound, I am
>>> assuming leads 1(red), 3(copper), and 5(green) are on one side, and
>>> 2(red), 4(copper), and 6(green) are on the other.
>>
>> That's correct........
>>
>>
>>> For T3, I have leads 2(red), 4(copper), and 5(green) twisted together,
>>> tinned and soldered to ground. The remaining leads 1(red), 3(copper),
>>> and 6(green) are connected to their prospective places.
>>
>> That's also done correctly. Having colored wired sure helps with
>> the description!!
>>
>>
>>> Am I on the right track here, or did I make a newbie mistake?
>>
>> You've got it correct.
>>
>>
>>> T4 is wired in a smiliar fashion.
>>
>> OK....then you've got it all done correctly.
>>
>>
>>> I'm sorry to be asking so many questions about this.
>>
>> Not a problem, that's how we all learn. It's one thing to read about
>> a DBM in a book, and quite another to actually build one and see
>> that it actually works as described.
>>
>>> I have never
>>> done this before.
>>
>> You are not alone. Several on in group have built their very first
>> DBM and struggled getting all of those leads connected to the correct
>> mate or part.
>>
>>
>>> I feel bad that I'm having so much trouble with
>>> this part of the radio.
>>
>> No need to feel that way. You're progressing fine. This isn't
>> easy stuff, especially doing it for the first time. It can be
>> rather daunting.
>>
>>> I'm not discouraged though, in fact, I'm very
>>> excited witht the fact that I can hear CW! This is the first receiver
>>> I have built, and the fact it is working, even marginally, is
>>> satisfying. I know I'm close!
>>
>> I'd guess it is working fine, and the extra signals you are hearning
>> could be getting into the GC receiver through the hookup between the
>> output of the DBM and the input of the GC receiver.
>>
>> I'd continue on, and build up the next set of stages so that you
>> can take the output off of the IF amplifier. Then the signals should
>> only be those in the 40 meter band, and they will be loud in the GC
>> receiver. It may even overload it on the stronger ones.
>>
>> 72 and GL,
>>
>> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Tom,
I've been anxoiusly awaiting the "IT WORKS" message from you! How's it
going?
BTW; really enjoyed your pictures, great job on the build - looks like a
winner!
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "n0dsp" <n0dsp@yahoo.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 00:37:24 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Photos of the "Troublemaker" are up!
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I have posted some photos of my scope readings in the photo section,
> under N0DSP. Please check them out and let me know what you think.
> I'm sorry the aren't clear, not a great camera for closeups! Looking
> for any help you have to offer. Maybe I'm reading the scope wrong...
> doubt it....
>
> Well, I'll be trying again in the early AM hours to get something
> figured out.
>
> Thanks for you patience with me and my little TROUBLEMAKER!
>
> Tom
> N0DSP
>
> ps.... will have the working 2N2-40 with me at Dayton. My first trip
> to FDIM and looking forward to it! I hope to meet many of you there.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
John,
Thanks. I'll try the TC1 and TC2 trick. The scope I have (borrowed)
is not functioning properly (no... I didn't break it!), but I went out
on a limb and bought one on Ebay.... Can't go wrong for $33.00... even
if it doesn't work there is at least that much in parts inside :)
In the mean time, I'll try to borrow a different one. Is there any
way I can use one of my HF rigs as an RF signal source (i.e. attenuator)?
Thanks again for the help. I'm having a blast!
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> Wow - moving right along!
>
> TC1 and TC2 are tuned together, so make sure once you find the peak
in one,
> you adjust the other one for peak, then go back to the other and
make sure
> it's still peaked.
>
> Triple check your crystal filter. Check the connections to the variable
> filter pot. If you have an o'scope and a RF noise source, try to trace a
> known signal through and see if it gets lost somewhere. Jim posted a
set of
> signal traces through the entire recv change (and xmit chain) that are
> invaluable.
>
> Oh yeah, upload pictures. :)
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "dek8gd"
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@y...
> > Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:57:56 -0000
> > To: 2n2-40@y...
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Re: DBM question
> >
> > Jim,
> >
> > Thanks for the confirmation on the DBM transformers.
> >
> > Last night I built the Mixer Amp, Variable Xtal filter, and IF amp.
> > When I listen to the output (C26) on my GC receiver set to 4.915, the
> > signals I can hear are stronger ( some to S5 on the S meter ). I'm
> > still not hearing everything on the band though. I am pretty sure I
> > have TC1, TC2, and TC9 peaked (they each have distinct peaks through
> > 360 degrees). Does this sound right?
> >
> > Thanks for the enouragement Jim. You are great!
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> >> At 01:09 PM 3/27/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
> >>
> >>> Jim and group,
> >>>
> >>> I think I still may have a problem in the DBM as you suggested. The
> >>> diodes are installed correctly, I'm sure of that. Let me make
sure I
> >>> understand the trifilar transformers. When I have them wound, I am
> >>> assuming leads 1(red), 3(copper), and 5(green) are on one side, and
> >>> 2(red), 4(copper), and 6(green) are on the other.
> >>
> >> That's correct........
> >>
> >>
> >>> For T3, I have leads 2(red), 4(copper), and 5(green) twisted
together,
> >>> tinned and soldered to ground. The remaining leads 1(red),
3(copper),
> >>> and 6(green) are connected to their prospective places.
> >>
> >> That's also done correctly. Having colored wired sure helps with
> >> the description!!
> >>
> >>
> >>> Am I on the right track here, or did I make a newbie mistake?
> >>
> >> You've got it correct.
> >>
> >>
> >>> T4 is wired in a smiliar fashion.
> >>
> >> OK....then you've got it all done correctly.
> >>
> >>
> >>> I'm sorry to be asking so many questions about this.
> >>
> >> Not a problem, that's how we all learn. It's one thing to read about
> >> a DBM in a book, and quite another to actually build one and see
> >> that it actually works as described.
> >>
> >>> I have never
> >>> done this before.
> >>
> >> You are not alone. Several on in group have built their very first
> >> DBM and struggled getting all of those leads connected to the correct
> >> mate or part.
> >>
> >>
> >>> I feel bad that I'm having so much trouble with
> >>> this part of the radio.
> >>
> >> No need to feel that way. You're progressing fine. This isn't
> >> easy stuff, especially doing it for the first time. It can be
> >> rather daunting.
> >>
> >>> I'm not discouraged though, in fact, I'm very
> >>> excited witht the fact that I can hear CW! This is the first
receiver
> >>> I have built, and the fact it is working, even marginally, is
> >>> satisfying. I know I'm close!
> >>
> >> I'd guess it is working fine, and the extra signals you are hearning
> >> could be getting into the GC receiver through the hookup between the
> >> output of the DBM and the input of the GC receiver.
> >>
> >> I'd continue on, and build up the next set of stages so that you
> >> can take the output off of the IF amplifier. Then the signals should
> >> only be those in the 40 meter band, and they will be loud in the GC
> >> receiver. It may even overload it on the stronger ones.
> >>
> >> 72 and GL,
> >>
> >> Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
Jeff, Information that would help...
a. what type of scope did you get for that price?
b. What type of HF rigs can you use...power out?
I used my TS850 with the power down to 5 watts
into a dummy load as a signal source
Wes W3ERU
At 01:04 PM 3/27/02, you wrote:
>John,
>
>Thanks. I'll try the TC1 and TC2 trick. The scope I have (borrowed)
>is not functioning properly (no... I didn't break it!), but I went out
>on a limb and bought one on Ebay.... Can't go wrong for $33.00... even
>if it doesn't work there is at least that much in parts inside :)
>
>In the mean time, I'll try to borrow a different one. Is there any
>way I can use one of my HF rigs as an RF signal source (i.e. attenuator)?
>
>Thanks again for the help. I'm having a blast!
>
>Jeff - K8GD
>
>--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> > Wow - moving right along!
> >
> > TC1 and TC2 are tuned together, so make sure once you find the peak
>in one,
> > you adjust the other one for peak, then go back to the other and
>make sure
> > it's still peaked.
> >
> > Triple check your crystal filter. Check the connections to the variable
> > filter pot. If you have an o'scope and a RF noise source, try to trace a
> > known signal through and see if it gets lost somewhere. Jim posted a
>set of
> > signal traces through the entire recv change (and xmit chain) that are
> > invaluable.
> >
> > Oh yeah, upload pictures. :)
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > John, N1QO
> >
> > > From: "dek8gd"
> > > Reply-To: 2n2-40@y...
> > > Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:57:56 -0000
> > > To: 2n2-40@y...
> > > Subject: [2n2-40] Re: DBM question
> > >
> > > Jim,
> > >
> > > Thanks for the confirmation on the DBM transformers.
> > >
> > > Last night I built the Mixer Amp, Variable Xtal filter, and IF amp.
> > > When I listen to the output (C26) on my GC receiver set to 4.915, the
> > > signals I can hear are stronger ( some to S5 on the S meter ). I'm
> > > still not hearing everything on the band though. I am pretty sure I
> > > have TC1, TC2, and TC9 peaked (they each have distinct peaks through
> > > 360 degrees). Does this sound right?
> > >
> > > Thanks for the enouragement Jim. You are great!
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > >
> > > --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > >> At 01:09 PM 3/27/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> Jim and group,
> > >>>
> > >>> I think I still may have a problem in the DBM as you suggested. The
> > >>> diodes are installed correctly, I'm sure of that. Let me make
>sure I
> > >>> understand the trifilar transformers. When I have them wound, I am
> > >>> assuming leads 1(red), 3(copper), and 5(green) are on one side, and
> > >>> 2(red), 4(copper), and 6(green) are on the other.
> > >>
> > >> That's correct........
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> For T3, I have leads 2(red), 4(copper), and 5(green) twisted
>together,
> > >>> tinned and soldered to ground. The remaining leads 1(red),
>3(copper),
> > >>> and 6(green) are connected to their prospective places.
> > >>
> > >> That's also done correctly. Having colored wired sure helps with
> > >> the description!!
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> Am I on the right track here, or did I make a newbie mistake?
> > >>
> > >> You've got it correct.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> T4 is wired in a smiliar fashion.
> > >>
> > >> OK....then you've got it all done correctly.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> I'm sorry to be asking so many questions about this.
> > >>
> > >> Not a problem, that's how we all learn. It's one thing to read about
> > >> a DBM in a book, and quite another to actually build one and see
> > >> that it actually works as described.
> > >>
> > >>> I have never
> > >>> done this before.
> > >>
> > >> You are not alone. Several on in group have built their very first
> > >> DBM and struggled getting all of those leads connected to the correct
> > >> mate or part.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> I feel bad that I'm having so much trouble with
> > >>> this part of the radio.
> > >>
> > >> No need to feel that way. You're progressing fine. This isn't
> > >> easy stuff, especially doing it for the first time. It can be
> > >> rather daunting.
> > >>
> > >>> I'm not discouraged though, in fact, I'm very
> > >>> excited witht the fact that I can hear CW! This is the first
>receiver
> > >>> I have built, and the fact it is working, even marginally, is
> > >>> satisfying. I know I'm close!
> > >>
> > >> I'd guess it is working fine, and the extra signals you are hearning
> > >> could be getting into the GC receiver through the hookup between the
> > >> output of the DBM and the input of the GC receiver.
> > >>
> > >> I'd continue on, and build up the next set of stages so that you
> > >> can take the output off of the IF amplifier. Then the signals should
> > >> only be those in the 40 meter band, and they will be loud in the GC
> > >> receiver. It may even overload it on the stronger ones.
> > >>
> > >> 72 and GL,
> > >>
> > >> Jim, K8IQY
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> a. what type of scope did you get for that price?
Panasonic 100Mhz I believe. The guy didn't know much about it, but
said it lights up when he turns it on.... that should be a good sign ;)
>
> b. What type of HF rigs can you use...power out?
> I used my TS850 with the power down to 5 watts
> into a dummy load as a signal source
Icom 736 and Heathkit HW-101. Both can go down to a few watts. I
have a dummy load (remember the cantenna?). That's what I have been
using for testing until now. Maybe I should just keep doing that.
Thanks.
Jeff
>
> Wes W3ERU
>
> At 01:04 PM 3/27/02, you wrote:
> >John,
> >
> >Thanks. I'll try the TC1 and TC2 trick. The scope I have (borrowed)
> >is not functioning properly (no... I didn't break it!), but I went out
> >on a limb and bought one on Ebay.... Can't go wrong for $33.00... even
> >if it doesn't work there is at least that much in parts inside :)
> >
> >In the mean time, I'll try to borrow a different one. Is there any
> >way I can use one of my HF rigs as an RF signal source (i.e.
attenuator)?
> >
> >Thanks again for the help. I'm having a blast!
> >
> >Jeff - K8GD
> >
> >--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> > > Wow - moving right along!
> > >
> > > TC1 and TC2 are tuned together, so make sure once you find the peak
> >in one,
> > > you adjust the other one for peak, then go back to the other and
> >make sure
> > > it's still peaked.
> > >
> > > Triple check your crystal filter. Check the connections to the
variable
> > > filter pot. If you have an o'scope and a RF noise source, try to
trace a
> > > known signal through and see if it gets lost somewhere. Jim posted a
> >set of
> > > signal traces through the entire recv change (and xmit chain)
that are
> > > invaluable.
> > >
> > > Oh yeah, upload pictures. :)
> > >
> > > 73,
> > >
> > > John, N1QO
> > >
> > > > From: "dek8gd"
> > > > Reply-To: 2n2-40@y...
> > > > Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:57:56 -0000
> > > > To: 2n2-40@y...
> > > > Subject: [2n2-40] Re: DBM question
> > > >
> > > > Jim,
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the confirmation on the DBM transformers.
> > > >
> > > > Last night I built the Mixer Amp, Variable Xtal filter, and IF
amp.
> > > > When I listen to the output (C26) on my GC receiver set to
4.915, the
> > > > signals I can hear are stronger ( some to S5 on the S meter ).
I'm
> > > > still not hearing everything on the band though. I am pretty
sure I
> > > > have TC1, TC2, and TC9 peaked (they each have distinct peaks
through
> > > > 360 degrees). Does this sound right?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the enouragement Jim. You are great!
> > > >
> > > > Jeff
> > > >
> > > > --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > > >> At 01:09 PM 3/27/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>> Jim and group,
> > > >>>
> > > >>> I think I still may have a problem in the DBM as you
suggested. The
> > > >>> diodes are installed correctly, I'm sure of that. Let me make
> >sure I
> > > >>> understand the trifilar transformers. When I have them
wound, I am
> > > >>> assuming leads 1(red), 3(copper), and 5(green) are on one
side, and
> > > >>> 2(red), 4(copper), and 6(green) are on the other.
> > > >>
> > > >> That's correct........
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>> For T3, I have leads 2(red), 4(copper), and 5(green) twisted
> >together,
> > > >>> tinned and soldered to ground. The remaining leads 1(red),
> >3(copper),
> > > >>> and 6(green) are connected to their prospective places.
> > > >>
> > > >> That's also done correctly. Having colored wired sure helps with
> > > >> the description!!
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>> Am I on the right track here, or did I make a newbie mistake?
> > > >>
> > > >> You've got it correct.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>> T4 is wired in a smiliar fashion.
> > > >>
> > > >> OK....then you've got it all done correctly.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>> I'm sorry to be asking so many questions about this.
> > > >>
> > > >> Not a problem, that's how we all learn. It's one thing to
read about
> > > >> a DBM in a book, and quite another to actually build one and see
> > > >> that it actually works as described.
> > > >>
> > > >>> I have never
> > > >>> done this before.
> > > >>
> > > >> You are not alone. Several on in group have built their very
first
> > > >> DBM and struggled getting all of those leads connected to the
correct
> > > >> mate or part.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>> I feel bad that I'm having so much trouble with
> > > >>> this part of the radio.
> > > >>
> > > >> No need to feel that way. You're progressing fine. This isn't
> > > >> easy stuff, especially doing it for the first time. It can be
> > > >> rather daunting.
> > > >>
> > > >>> I'm not discouraged though, in fact, I'm very
> > > >>> excited witht the fact that I can hear CW! This is the first
> >receiver
> > > >>> I have built, and the fact it is working, even marginally, is
> > > >>> satisfying. I know I'm close!
> > > >>
> > > >> I'd guess it is working fine, and the extra signals you are
hearning
> > > >> could be getting into the GC receiver through the hookup
between the
> > > >> output of the DBM and the input of the GC receiver.
> > > >>
> > > >> I'd continue on, and build up the next set of stages so that you
> > > >> can take the output off of the IF amplifier. Then the
signals should
> > > >> only be those in the 40 meter band, and they will be loud in
the GC
> > > >> receiver. It may even overload it on the stronger ones.
> > > >>
> > > >> 72 and GL,
> > > >>
> > > >> Jim, K8IQY
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> >http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/At 01:57 PM 3/27/02 +0000, Jeff wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Thanks for the confirmation on the DBM transformers.
>
>Last night I built the Mixer Amp, Variable Xtal filter, and IF amp.
>When I listen to the output (C26) on my GC receiver set to 4.915, the
>signals I can hear are stronger ( some to S5 on the S meter ).
You may have to tune up or down from 4.915 a tad bit to peak the
signals coming through the filter. It's passband isn't exactly
on 4.915, but actually a bit higher in frequency than that.
> I'm
>still not hearing everything on the band though. I am pretty sure I
>have TC1, TC2, and TC9 peaked (they each have distinct peaks through
>360 degrees). Does this sound right?
Yes; they should each have two (2) distinct peaks in 360 degrees. No
more or no less, but exactly 2 if they are tuning correctly.
>Thanks for the enouragement Jim. You are great!
Just trying to be helpful and make sure you are successful.
72 and thanks for the new info.
Jim, K8IQY
You can use an HF rig as an RF source, sure! Just transmit it into a dummy
load and place the antenna wire from the your soon to be built 2n2/40+ near
it. Don't transmit directly into your 2n2/40 though. Then just move the wire
until you get about 20mV to 40mV showing on the scope at the ant input of
the 2n2/40. Work back from there with the scope probe using the traces that
Jim uploaded to the Yahoo! site. Don't get too attached to Jim's scope
traces BTW, they make me want a nice new scope (I use a Tek 465B - nice
scope, but doesn't have have many bells and whistles).
I used an old Heathkit RF noise generator that someone gave me. I also made
use of a Tuna Tin 2 and a VE3DNL marker generator.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 18:04:32 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: DBM question
>
> John,
>
> Thanks. I'll try the TC1 and TC2 trick. The scope I have (borrowed)
> is not functioning properly (no... I didn't break it!), but I went out
> on a limb and bought one on Ebay.... Can't go wrong for $33.00... even
> if it doesn't work there is at least that much in parts inside :)
>
> In the mean time, I'll try to borrow a different one. Is there any
> way I can use one of my HF rigs as an RF signal source (i.e. attenuator)?
>
> Thanks again for the help. I'm having a blast!
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
>> Wow - moving right along!
>>
>> TC1 and TC2 are tuned together, so make sure once you find the peak
> in one,
>> you adjust the other one for peak, then go back to the other and
> make sure
>> it's still peaked.
>>
>> Triple check your crystal filter. Check the connections to the variable
>> filter pot. If you have an o'scope and a RF noise source, try to trace a
>> known signal through and see if it gets lost somewhere. Jim posted a
> set of
>> signal traces through the entire recv change (and xmit chain) that are
>> invaluable.
>>
>> Oh yeah, upload pictures. :)
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> John, N1QO
>>
>>> From: "dek8gd"
>>> Reply-To: 2n2-40@y...
>>> Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:57:56 -0000
>>> To: 2n2-40@y...
>>> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: DBM question
>>>
>>> Jim,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the confirmation on the DBM transformers.
>>>
>>> Last night I built the Mixer Amp, Variable Xtal filter, and IF amp.
>>> When I listen to the output (C26) on my GC receiver set to 4.915, the
>>> signals I can hear are stronger ( some to S5 on the S meter ). I'm
>>> still not hearing everything on the band though. I am pretty sure I
>>> have TC1, TC2, and TC9 peaked (they each have distinct peaks through
>>> 360 degrees). Does this sound right?
>>>
>>> Thanks for the enouragement Jim. You are great!
>>>
>>> Jeff
>>>
>>> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>>>> At 01:09 PM 3/27/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Jim and group,
>>>>>
>>>>> I think I still may have a problem in the DBM as you suggested. The
>>>>> diodes are installed correctly, I'm sure of that. Let me make
> sure I
>>>>> understand the trifilar transformers. When I have them wound, I am
>>>>> assuming leads 1(red), 3(copper), and 5(green) are on one side, and
>>>>> 2(red), 4(copper), and 6(green) are on the other.
>>>>
>>>> That's correct........
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> For T3, I have leads 2(red), 4(copper), and 5(green) twisted
> together,
>>>>> tinned and soldered to ground. The remaining leads 1(red),
> 3(copper),
>>>>> and 6(green) are connected to their prospective places.
>>>>
>>>> That's also done correctly. Having colored wired sure helps with
>>>> the description!!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Am I on the right track here, or did I make a newbie mistake?
>>>>
>>>> You've got it correct.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> T4 is wired in a smiliar fashion.
>>>>
>>>> OK....then you've got it all done correctly.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I'm sorry to be asking so many questions about this.
>>>>
>>>> Not a problem, that's how we all learn. It's one thing to read about
>>>> a DBM in a book, and quite another to actually build one and see
>>>> that it actually works as described.
>>>>
>>>>> I have never
>>>>> done this before.
>>>>
>>>> You are not alone. Several on in group have built their very first
>>>> DBM and struggled getting all of those leads connected to the correct
>>>> mate or part.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I feel bad that I'm having so much trouble with
>>>>> this part of the radio.
>>>>
>>>> No need to feel that way. You're progressing fine. This isn't
>>>> easy stuff, especially doing it for the first time. It can be
>>>> rather daunting.
>>>>
>>>>> I'm not discouraged though, in fact, I'm very
>>>>> excited witht the fact that I can hear CW! This is the first
> receiver
>>>>> I have built, and the fact it is working, even marginally, is
>>>>> satisfying. I know I'm close!
>>>>
>>>> I'd guess it is working fine, and the extra signals you are hearning
>>>> could be getting into the GC receiver through the hookup between the
>>>> output of the DBM and the input of the GC receiver.
>>>>
>>>> I'd continue on, and build up the next set of stages so that you
>>>> can take the output off of the IF amplifier. Then the signals should
>>>> only be those in the 40 meter band, and they will be loud in the GC
>>>> receiver. It may even overload it on the stronger ones.
>>>>
>>>> 72 and GL,
>>>>
>>>> Jim, K8IQY
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hi Guys,
I don't think it is too early to post this message! (I hope) I know
Jim, John and many others have been waiting for me to post it. Guess
I took the "long" way, but think I have learned a LOT more along that
path.
Let me get right to what I think was the problem in the transmitter.
I had the "Tx" line hooked up to the wrong spot and T11 was wired
wrong when I keyed it the first time. I had built the entire
tranceiver without testing any sections along the way. (This is #2)
When I finally got the receiver going, I was so excited that I really
didn't do a good job of double checking the TX before I tried it.
Jim figured out quickly, by looking at pictures of my scope readings,
that my scope readings were stronger than I thought. I had to
multiply all readings by 10. That shined a different light on the
whole thing. I went back and checked the junctions again and found
that I had great readings on the bases of Q18-Q20 but I lost
everything on the collectors. Guess I fried them. I double checked
(for the 20th time) the rest of the Tx, replaced Q18, Q19 & Q20 with
fresh ones and crossed my fingers. Now with Pot 4 adjusted to get
the same reading that Jim has on the base of Q18 - Q20, my scope
reading at the antenna is the same as Jim's! 30 Volts!!!
Now I need to align everything and hope I'm ready to make the first
contact.
I will try to get it ready for the first contact and let you know how
it goes.
Thanks again Jim, John and everyone that has given me encouragement.
Also, thanks to everyone for your patience watching (reading) me work
my way through my build problems. I hope someone learned something
from my mistakes.
This is a fantastic group... The true spirit of Ham Radio.
72
Tom Little
N0DSP
|
1932|1931|2002-03-27 22:12:46|Jeff Hecht|Re: It Works!!!! :)|Tom,
Outstanding! I hope to be announcing my 2N2/40+ is working very soon.
You are right,
this group is truely the spirit of Ham radio, and hats off to Jim for
making this all possible.
Jeff -K8GD
n0dsp wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> I don't think it is too early to post this message! (I hope) I know
> Jim, John and many others have been waiting for me to post it. Guess
> I took the "long" way, but think I have learned a LOT more along that
> path.
>
> Let me get right to what I think was the problem in the transmitter.
> I had the "Tx" line hooked up to the wrong spot and T11 was wired
> wrong when I keyed it the first time. I had built the entire
> tranceiver without testing any sections along the way. (This is #2)
> When I finally got the receiver going, I was so excited that I really
> didn't do a good job of double checking the TX before I tried it.
> Jim figured out quickly, by looking at pictures of my scope readings,
> that my scope readings were stronger than I thought. I had to
> multiply all readings by 10. That shined a different light on the
> whole thing. I went back and checked the junctions again and found
> that I had great readings on the bases of Q18-Q20 but I lost
> everything on the collectors. Guess I fried them. I double checked
> (for the 20th time) the rest of the Tx, replaced Q18, Q19 & Q20 with
> fresh ones and crossed my fingers. Now with Pot 4 adjusted to get
> the same reading that Jim has on the base of Q18 - Q20, my scope
> reading at the antenna is the same as Jim's! 30 Volts!!!
>
> Now I need to align everything and hope I'm ready to make the first
> contact.
>
> I will try to get it ready for the first contact and let you know how
> it goes.
>
> Thanks again Jim, John and everyone that has given me encouragement.
> Also, thanks to everyone for your patience watching (reading) me work
> my way through my build problems. I hope someone learned something
> from my mistakes.
>
> This is a fantastic group... The true spirit of Ham Radio.
>
> 72
>
> Tom Little
> N0DSP
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
John,
Thanks for the info. This is all such good information. I have learned
more in the past several
weeks about radio, than I have in the last 9 years or so being a ham!
72
Jeff - K8GD
John Wagner wrote:
> You can use an HF rig as an RF source, sure! Just transmit it into a
> dummy
> load and place the antenna wire from the your soon to be built 2n2/40+
> near
> it. Don't transmit directly into your 2n2/40 though. Then just move
> the wire
> until you get about 20mV to 40mV showing on the scope at the ant input
> of
> the 2n2/40. Work back from there with the scope probe using the traces
> that
> Jim uploaded to the Yahoo! site. Don't get too attached to Jim's scope
>
> traces BTW, they make me want a nice new scope (I use a Tek 465B -
> nice
> scope, but doesn't have have many bells and whistles).
>
> I used an old Heathkit RF noise generator that someone gave me. I also
> made
> use of a Tuna Tin 2 and a VE3DNL marker generator.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 18:04:32 -0000
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Re: DBM question
> >
> > John,
> >
> > Thanks. I'll try the TC1 and TC2 trick. The scope I have
> (borrowed)
> > is not functioning properly (no... I didn't break it!), but I went
> out
> > on a limb and bought one on Ebay.... Can't go wrong for $33.00...
> even
> > if it doesn't work there is at least that much in parts inside :)
> >
> > In the mean time, I'll try to borrow a different one. Is there any
> > way I can use one of my HF rigs as an RF signal source (i.e.
> attenuator)?
> >
> > Thanks again for the help. I'm having a blast!
> >
> > Jeff - K8GD
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> >> Wow - moving right along!
> >>
> >> TC1 and TC2 are tuned together, so make sure once you find the peak
>
> > in one,
> >> you adjust the other one for peak, then go back to the other and
> > make sure
> >> it's still peaked.
> >>
> >> Triple check your crystal filter. Check the connections to the
> variable
> >> filter pot. If you have an o'scope and a RF noise source, try to
> trace a
> >> known signal through and see if it gets lost somewhere. Jim posted
> a
> > set of
> >> signal traces through the entire recv change (and xmit chain) that
> are
> >> invaluable.
> >>
> >> Oh yeah, upload pictures. :)
> >>
> >> 73,
> >>
> >> John, N1QO
> >>
> >>> From: "dek8gd"
> >>> Reply-To: 2n2-40@y...
> >>> Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:57:56 -0000
> >>> To: 2n2-40@y...
> >>> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: DBM question
> >>>
> >>> Jim,
> >>>
> >>> Thanks for the confirmation on the DBM transformers.
> >>>
> >>> Last night I built the Mixer Amp, Variable Xtal filter, and IF
> amp.
> >>> When I listen to the output (C26) on my GC receiver set to 4.915,
> the
> >>> signals I can hear are stronger ( some to S5 on the S meter ).
> I'm
> >>> still not hearing everything on the band though. I am pretty sure
> I
> >>> have TC1, TC2, and TC9 peaked (they each have distinct peaks
> through
> >>> 360 degrees). Does this sound right?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks for the enouragement Jim. You are great!
> >>>
> >>> Jeff
> >>>
> >>> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> >>>> At 01:09 PM 3/27/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Jim and group,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I think I still may have a problem in the DBM as you suggested.
> The
> >>>>> diodes are installed correctly, I'm sure of that. Let me make
> > sure I
> >>>>> understand the trifilar transformers. When I have them wound, I
> am
> >>>>> assuming leads 1(red), 3(copper), and 5(green) are on one side,
> and
> >>>>> 2(red), 4(copper), and 6(green) are on the other.
> >>>>
> >>>> That's correct........
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> For T3, I have leads 2(red), 4(copper), and 5(green) twisted
> > together,
> >>>>> tinned and soldered to ground. The remaining leads 1(red),
> > 3(copper),
> >>>>> and 6(green) are connected to their prospective places.
> >>>>
> >>>> That's also done correctly. Having colored wired sure helps with
>
> >>>> the description!!
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> Am I on the right track here, or did I make a newbie mistake?
> >>>>
> >>>> You've got it correct.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> T4 is wired in a smiliar fashion.
> >>>>
> >>>> OK....then you've got it all done correctly.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> I'm sorry to be asking so many questions about this.
> >>>>
> >>>> Not a problem, that's how we all learn. It's one thing to read
> about
> >>>> a DBM in a book, and quite another to actually build one and see
> >>>> that it actually works as described.
> >>>>
> >>>>> I have never
> >>>>> done this before.
> >>>>
> >>>> You are not alone. Several on in group have built their very
> first
> >>>> DBM and struggled getting all of those leads connected to the
> correct
> >>>> mate or part.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> I feel bad that I'm having so much trouble with
> >>>>> this part of the radio.
> >>>>
> >>>> No need to feel that way. You're progressing fine. This isn't
> >>>> easy stuff, especially doing it for the first time. It can be
> >>>> rather daunting.
> >>>>
> >>>>> I'm not discouraged though, in fact, I'm very
> >>>>> excited witht the fact that I can hear CW! This is the first
> > receiver
> >>>>> I have built, and the fact it is working, even marginally, is
> >>>>> satisfying. I know I'm close!
> >>>>
> >>>> I'd guess it is working fine, and the extra signals you are
> hearning
> >>>> could be getting into the GC receiver through the hookup between
> the
> >>>> output of the DBM and the input of the GC receiver.
> >>>>
> >>>> I'd continue on, and build up the next set of stages so that you
> >>>> can take the output off of the IF amplifier. Then the signals
> should
> >>>> only be those in the 40 meter band, and they will be loud in the
> GC
> >>>> receiver. It may even overload it on the stronger ones.
> >>>>
> >>>> 72 and GL,
> >>>>
> >>>> Jim, K8IQY
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Hey gang.
I posted a couple of pictures of my progress on the 2N2/40+. They are
in the photos section under K8GD.
Please let me know what you think.
72
Jeff - K8GD
|
1935|1931|2002-03-27 22:43:42|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: It Works!!!! :)|At 02:23 AM 3/28/02 +0000, Tom Little, N0DSP wrote:
>Hi Guys,
>-snip-
>
>Let me get right to what I think was the problem in the transmitter.
>I had the "Tx" line hooked up to the wrong spot and T11 was wired
>wrong when I keyed it the first time. I had built the entire
>tranceiver without testing any sections along the way. (This is #2)
>When I finally got the receiver going, I was so excited that I really
>didn't do a good job of double checking the TX before I tried it.
>Jim figured out quickly, by looking at pictures of my scope readings,
>that my scope readings were stronger than I thought. I had to
>multiply all readings by 10. That shined a different light on the
>whole thing. I went back and checked the junctions again and found
>that I had great readings on the bases of Q18-Q20 but I lost
>everything on the collectors. Guess I fried them. I double checked
>(for the 20th time) the rest of the Tx, replaced Q18, Q19 & Q20 with
>fresh ones and crossed my fingers. Now with Pot 4 adjusted to get
>the same reading that Jim has on the base of Q18 - Q20, my scope
>reading at the antenna is the same as Jim's! 30 Volts!!!
Ladies and Gentlemen.....we have liftoff!!!! :-)
Congratulations Tom, we all knew you were getting close and
would make it play soon. Looking forward to working you on
the air with your new 2N2/40+. Enjoy and see you at Dayton!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
wooooooooohoooooooooo! ;)
Congrats on numero 2 Tom! That's great news for sure.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "n0dsp" <n0dsp@yahoo.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 02:23:06 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] It Works!!!! :)
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I don't think it is too early to post this message! (I hope) I know
> Jim, John and many others have been waiting for me to post it. Guess
> I took the "long" way, but think I have learned a LOT more along that
> path.
>
> This is a fantastic group... The true spirit of Ham Radio.
>
> 72
>
> Tom Little
> N0DSP
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 10:34 PM 3/27/02 -0500, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>Hey gang.
>
>I posted a couple of pictures of my progress on the 2N2/40+. They are
>in the photos section under K8GD.
>
>Please let me know what you think.
I think they look teriffic for a first time builder. Very nice!! :-)
Having a bit of fun too?
72 and build on,
Jim, K8IQY
Nice job Jeff, thanks for sharing!
It looks like you managed to get the entire Rx LO built into a much smaller
space then what I ended up with. I think you'll find that you have a lot of
extra room for the Rx Mute and Audio amp.
Again, nice job!
73,
John, N1QO
> From: Jeff Hecht <jhecht@dnaco.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 22:34:17 -0500
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Some pics of my progress
>
> Hey gang.
>
> I posted a couple of pictures of my progress on the 2N2/40+. They are
> in the photos section under K8GD.
>
> Please let me know what you think.
>
> 72
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Jeff Hecht
wrote:
> Hey gang.
>
> I posted a couple of pictures of my progress on the 2N2/40+. They
are
> in the photos section under K8GD.
>
> Please let me know what you think.
Jeff,
I think your rig looks GREAT!! Keep up the good work. I think I
will be looking for contacts with mine on Friday night. Hope to get
Jim, John, Dennis, Wes and others to listen for me.
Keep plugging along and asking for help where you need it. You will
certainly find the help you need, here, with this group. (speaking
from experience)
72
Tom
N0DSPFantastic..............Great pictures Jeff and Tom..
I cant wait to hear your 2n240+ on the Air.
Wes W3ERU
At 10:54 PM 3/27/02, you wrote:
>--- In 2n2-40@y..., Jeff Hecht wrote:
> > Hey gang.
> >
> > I posted a couple of pictures of my progress on the 2N2/40+. They
>are
> > in the photos section under K8GD.
> >
> > Please let me know what you think.
>
>Jeff,
>
>I think your rig looks GREAT!! Keep up the good work. I think I
>will be looking for contacts with mine on Friday night. Hope to get
>Jim, John, Dennis, Wes and others to listen for me.
>
>Keep plugging along and asking for help where you need it. You will
>certainly find the help you need, here, with this group. (speaking
>from experience)
>
>72
>
>Tom
>N0DSP
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Thanks to all for the nice coments on my progress. I'm having
a great time building this rig and couldn't do it without the
generous support of everyone in this group.
More pictures as I progress :)
Thanks!
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> Nice job Jeff, thanks for sharing!
>
> It looks like you managed to get the entire Rx LO built into a much
smaller
> space then what I ended up with. I think you'll find that you have a
lot of
> extra room for the Rx Mute and Audio amp.
>
> Again, nice job!
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: Jeff Hecht
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@y...
> > Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 22:34:17 -0500
> > To: 2n2-40@y...
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Some pics of my progress
> >
> > Hey gang.
> >
> > I posted a couple of pictures of my progress on the 2N2/40+. They are
> > in the photos section under K8GD.
> >
> > Please let me know what you think.
> >
> > 72
> >
> > Jeff - K8GD
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
Thanks to all for the nice coments on my progress. I'm having
a great time building this rig and couldn't do it without the
generous support of everyone in this group.
More pictures as I progress :)
Thanks!
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> Nice job Jeff, thanks for sharing!
>
> It looks like you managed to get the entire Rx LO built into a much
smaller
> space then what I ended up with. I think you'll find that you have a
lot of
> extra room for the Rx Mute and Audio amp.
>
> Again, nice job!
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: Jeff Hecht
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@y...
> > Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 22:34:17 -0500
> > To: 2n2-40@y...
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Some pics of my progress
> >
> > Hey gang.
> >
> > I posted a couple of pictures of my progress on the 2N2/40+. They are
> > in the photos section under K8GD.
> >
> > Please let me know what you think.
> >
> > 72
> >
> > Jeff - K8GD
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
Gang,
I think we're getting near the time for our first official 2n2/40 on the air
night (for this Yahoo! group anyway, I don't know if there have been
others).
Let's have it shortly after Atlanticon/Arkicon (neither of which I'll be
attending :( ).
The idea is this;
We pick a night, probably a Tues, Weds or Thurs. We pick a two hour period,
probably 9pm to 11pm Eastern. We get as many 2n2/40's on the air as
possible.
CQ'ers would call "CQ NN CQ NN" or "CQ QRP TEST" or something to indicate
they are in a contest. Participants can be CQ'ers or H&P'ers.
Exchange would be: RST SPC NAME RIG
Where RIG would be: NN for a 2n2/40, Q for other QRP power radio (i.e. a QRO
rig turned down to 5w would qualify) or O for QRO.
Points would be:
1 point if you work a QRO'er who stops by
2 points per Q rig
3 points per NN rig
10 points for working K8IQY
x1 multiplier for each different SPC worked.
If someone wants to collect email logs and do a cerfificate or something,
that would be great - I'd do it, but my cup runneth over at the moment.
I would like to open event up to any and all QRP'ers, especially other
2n2/40'ers. So once we firm this up, I'll announce it on QRP-L.
73,
John, N1QO
|
1944|1931|2002-03-28 19:18:27|Patrick York|Re: It Works!!!! :)|Congratulations Tom!! I'm very happy for you. The pics look great. I'm
still trying to troubleshoot mine and hopefully will have it working soon.
72, Pat KF4LMZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "n0dsp" <n0dsp@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 9:23 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] It Works!!!! :)
> Hi Guys,
>
> I don't think it is too early to post this message! (I hope) I know
> Jim, John and many others have been waiting for me to post it. Guess
> I took the "long" way, but think I have learned a LOT more along that
> path.
>
> Let me get right to what I think was the problem in the transmitter.
> I had the "Tx" line hooked up to the wrong spot and T11 was wired
> wrong when I keyed it the first time. I had built the entire
> tranceiver without testing any sections along the way. (This is #2)
> When I finally got the receiver going, I was so excited that I really
> didn't do a good job of double checking the TX before I tried it.
> Jim figured out quickly, by looking at pictures of my scope readings,
> that my scope readings were stronger than I thought. I had to
> multiply all readings by 10. That shined a different light on the
> whole thing. I went back and checked the junctions again and found
> that I had great readings on the bases of Q18-Q20 but I lost
> everything on the collectors. Guess I fried them. I double checked
> (for the 20th time) the rest of the Tx, replaced Q18, Q19 & Q20 with
> fresh ones and crossed my fingers. Now with Pot 4 adjusted to get
> the same reading that Jim has on the base of Q18 - Q20, my scope
> reading at the antenna is the same as Jim's! 30 Volts!!!
>
> Now I need to align everything and hope I'm ready to make the first
> contact.
>
> I will try to get it ready for the first contact and let you know how
> it goes.
>
> Thanks again Jim, John and everyone that has given me encouragement.
> Also, thanks to everyone for your patience watching (reading) me work
> my way through my build problems. I hope someone learned something
> from my mistakes.
>
> This is a fantastic group... The true spirit of Ham Radio.
>
> 72
>
> Tom Little
> N0DSP
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> I think they look teriffic for a first time builder. Very nice!! :-)
Thanks Jim... That means a lot to me coming from you. I can't wait for
you to see it in person at FDIM!
>
>
> Having a bit of fun too?
I'm having a great time!
>
>
> 72 and build on,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Building on!!!
Jeff - K8GD
Jeff,
Your photos and progress support us. Thank you. I'm sure
each of us gain knowledge from the mistakes we all make.
Thank goodness we have Jim to bail us out.
I haven't been following the pictorial layouts because some
of my stages are using surface mount devices. I sketch my
own stage layout, making errors even before I apply solder.
My progress is slow.
I have been testing each stage with a 9 volt battery which
probably saved some smoke when I applied reverse polarity
to the VFO. The VFO didn't work, but the 9 v battery didn't
supply enough current to destroy it.
Lucky dog.
I've tried taking photos but they look like assorted blobs of
solder on the copper-clad board. Not a pretty picture. It will
take a lot of pork rinds to appease the judges at FDIM (everyone
that looks at it). Brian's SMK-1 didn't need many.
Keep posting progress reports, folks. They help the rest of us.
72,
Kaye, K8GZ Lancaster, OH
|
1947|1943|2002-03-29 00:43:01|Dennis Ponsness|Re: 2n2/40's on the air|John,
Sounds like a winner to me, count me in! Haven't been on the air much.
Busy at work, running in a couple of 'tests, etc. But I will put in for
that nite off so I can be on with #26!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device:
http://mobile.msn.comToday he brought me a bunch of SMT parts from Brian KB9BVN, a bunch of
teflon coated wire from Steve WB6TNL.
Thanks guys, these parts will be going into my 2n2-40+(SMT) #2 (and pictures
are coming soon!!!). I'm still awaiting a shipment from Dan's, but I suspect
that's about 2 weeks out (average of about 3 weeks for him in the past -
wish he had an internet shopping thingy that took credit cards!).
73,
John, N1QO
|
1949|1949|2002-03-29 07:04:11|realbeandip|smt pics uploaded|Gang,
I uploaded a few shots of the Rx/Tx Driver to the photo album
n1qo-smt.
These didn't come out that well, my camera (an old Epson 500) just
isn't cut out for this kind of work. I've mentioned my Dad's camera in
recent posts, it's really nice.... maybe I can talk him into thinking
it's time for him to upgrade. ;)
73,
John, N1QO
|
1950|1950|2002-03-29 13:36:10|dek8gd|Broadcast signals|I found a problem with the way I wound T5. It seems that I wound it
with too few turns on the primary and the secondary. I did it late
one night and got it wrong.
Anyway, the FE is now an broadcast AM receiver. I have read the other
posts on this board about this problem and they seem to stem from the
transformers in the DB mixer. I have triple checked them, and I think
I have them wound and connected correctly. Is there anything else I
can try?
Thanks for the help. I'm learning a lot!
Jeff - K8GD
|
1951|1951|2002-03-29 14:06:07|dek8gd|Old message|The last post by me is almost a week old. I don't know why it is
showing up now. Please ignore it. I'm beyond that point :)
Jeff - K8GD
|
1952|1949|2002-03-29 16:30:34|Chuck Adams|Re: smt pics uploaded|At 01:09 AM 3/26/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Gang,
>
>I uploaded a few shots of the Rx/Tx Driver to the photo album
>n1qo-smt.
>
>These didn't come out that well, my camera (an old Epson 500) just
>isn't cut out for this kind of work. I've mentioned my Dad's camera in
>recent posts, it's really nice.... maybe I can talk him into thinking
>it's time for him to upgrade. ;)
>
>73,
>
>John, N1QO
>
John,
I use an Epson 500 for all my pictures on the web page.
You can go and buy some closeup lenses for camcorders
at your photoshop or maybe even WalMart.
dit dit
Chuck Adams, K7QO CP-60
k7qo@earthlink.net http://www.qsl.net/k7qo Moving to Arizona? --- Bring your own water, please.
Hey group.
I discovered that I had wound the VFO transformer incorrectly. After
rewinding that, I hooked it back up the GC receiver, tuned around, and
heard several CW signals. They aren't terribly strong, but they are
there! I'm still hearing the AM broadcast stations in the area, and I
think they are tuning backwards which might indicate that they are
mixing with the second harmonic of the VFO.
I have read other posts in this group that had the same problem, some
of which went away when the next stage was built.
I think I might go ahead and start the next stage and see what
happens. I'm a newbie at quite a bit of this (as you can probably
tell), but I am learning a lot and having a blast!
Thanks to all for the help.
72
Jeff - K8GD
Dayton, OH --- Hope to see you at Hamvention!
|
1954|1949|2002-03-29 20:09:37|Chuck Adams|Manhattan Pads and Drill Presses|Gang,
Sorry about the previous post about Epson lenses getting sent to the list.
Used to the reply going only to the sender on QRP-L.
In the latest issue of the QRP ARCI QRP Quarterly (a.k.a. QQ by some of us)
(V35 Nr 1)
in Mike Czuhajewski's, WA8MCQ, column there is a write up on the NJ "Islander"
cutter. I have tried it and there are several things that I don't like
about the technique.
Remember these are my own preferences and your mileage may vary.
1. I do not like the pad being at the same level as the ground plane. It
is too
prone to having a short between the pad and the ground plane. Small
burrs of
metal and solder splashes can instantly give you a problem. And if a
number of
connections have to be made to the same point then again a problem can
occur.
2. You have to be more critical in your planning stages as to where pads
shall go.
Else you will have something looking like the surface of the moon with
all those
circular craters cluttering up the landscape. At least I can rapidly
pull up a
pad that has been super glued and correct mistakes easily.
3. Anything that generates fiberglass dust and threads has got to be
considered
considerably dangerous to your health. And I am not working around
the problem
with pans of water or what ever.....
Just my opinion and of course it will be interesting to see at Dayton if anyone
has a major project done by using the technique with the "Islander".
Now a quick question. I am doing a paddle for Dayton made of brass using a
mil and a lathe that I bought last year. Question that I have. I am
interested in
a small drill press. Is the Dremel drill press stable and accurate enough for
fine work? I am not interested in making parts for the landfill. :-) I
have
a larger drill press, but I'm interested in small work and not having to use
the monster in the garage. Your help appreciated. If you did not already know
this, Don Hensley has discontinued making the Hensley Paddles, so they too
will be collectors items like the WBL paddles from W9WBL.
See you at Dayton.
dit dit
Chuck Adams, K7QO CP-60
k7qo@earthlink.net http://www.qsl.net/k7qo Moving to Arizona? --- Bring your own water, please.
I have GREAT news!! Last night I made my first contact on my 2N2-
40+. I talked with my Dad, K9KJD in Indiana. Not bad, Colorado to
Indiana! I am 1 of 7 Hams in the family and all because of Dad. I
wanted him to be my first contact with my first transciever built
from scratch. That contact made my VERY happy and I'm real proud of
my accomplishment. Thanks to you guys!
I love the idea of the first official 2N2 night John. I'll be
there! For a unofficial night, I am going to get on tonight to see
if any of us can make contact. I hope everything is adjusted
correctly... one way to find out!! I think I'll get on at 200Z and
then again at 300Z and call CQ 2N2 at 7.035 to 7.045 and see what
happens. Should have looked at the messages from the last time you
guys got on to see the time and freq you used. I'll send this post
now, if you have suggestions, just shhot them back.
I am really pumped!! (now to build the Tx on my other 2N2)
Thanks a Bunch!
Tom
N0DSP
|
1956|1949|2002-03-29 23:40:30|John Wagner|Re: Manhattan Pads and Drill Presses|No problem on the previous post. There are some quirks about this Yahoo!
list, one of them is that no matter what reply option you use on your email
client, it always puts the address of the list in. The other is now and
again it seems to hold messages FOREVER before sending 'em out, like my
previous two and another members recent post. Oh well, get what you pay for
I guess.
My Dad did give me a set of macro lenses with the epson camera. I've tried
them and I can't seem to aim the camera properly when using them... probably
just need more practice. And hey, the film is cheap. ;)
WRT the islander method of building, I haven't tried it yet. I've had good
luck using pads and don't feel confident enough yet to etch my layout in
stone before building - it's bad enough to etch it with super glue.
I have had good luck with my "SMP" (surface mount pad) method for using
SMD's and manhattan style. And, having said that, it looks like the islander
style might be good for using SMD's.
So, I do plan on getting one and trying it, just haven't got around to it
yet.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: Chuck Adams <k7qo@earthlink.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 09:23:21 +0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Manhattan Pads and Drill Presses
>
>
>
> Gang,
>
>
> Sorry about the previous post about Epson lenses getting sent to the list.
> Used to the reply going only to the sender on QRP-L.
>
> In the latest issue of the QRP ARCI QRP Quarterly (a.k.a. QQ by some of us)
> (V35 Nr 1)
> in Mike Czuhajewski's, WA8MCQ, column there is a write up on the NJ "Islander"
> cutter. I have tried it and there are several things that I don't like
> about the technique.
> Remember these are my own preferences and your mileage may vary.
>
>
> Chuck Adams, K7QO CP-60 k7qo@earthlink.net
> http://www.qsl.net/k7qo
>
> Moving to Arizona? --- Bring your own water, please.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Dangit - got in too late (and am way too tired) to even think about getting
on the radio.
Would love to hear your rig Tom, but will be busy tomorrow night as well.
Sunday is looking clear....
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "n0dsp" <n0dsp@yahoo.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 01:26:58 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Looking for 2N2 to 2N2 contacts!
>
> I have GREAT news!! Last night I made my first contact on my 2N2-
> 40+. I talked with my Dad, K9KJD in Indiana. Not bad, Colorado to
> Indiana! I am 1 of 7 Hams in the family and all because of Dad. I
> wanted him to be my first contact with my first transciever built
> from scratch. That contact made my VERY happy and I'm real proud of
> my accomplishment. Thanks to you guys!
>
> I love the idea of the first official 2N2 night John. I'll be
> there! For a unofficial night, I am going to get on tonight to see
> if any of us can make contact. I hope everything is adjusted
> correctly... one way to find out!! I think I'll get on at 200Z and
> then again at 300Z and call CQ 2N2 at 7.035 to 7.045 and see what
> happens. Should have looked at the messages from the last time you
> guys got on to see the time and freq you used. I'll send this post
> now, if you have suggestions, just shhot them back.
>
> I am really pumped!! (now to build the Tx on my other 2N2)
>
> Thanks a Bunch!
>
> Tom
>
> N0DSP
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Good deal Dennis, look forward to a 2x 2n2/40 QSO with you!
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Dennis Ponsness" <wb0wao@hotmail.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 05:42:59 +0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2/40's on the air
>
> John,
> Sounds like a winner to me, count me in! Haven't been on the air much.
> Busy at work, running in a couple of 'tests, etc. But I will put in for
> that nite off so I can be on with #26!
>
> 72
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Kaye,
I would love to see a snapshot of your progress using SMD's. I'm really
pleased with what I ended up with for the Rx/Tx driver, it's really tiny
(but not cramped!).
My prediction is that the VFO I'm building will take up half the size of my
previous one.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: K8GZ@cs.com
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 22:34:12 EST
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Some pics of my progress
>
> Jeff,
> Your photos and progress support us. Thank you. I'm sure
> each of us gain knowledge from the mistakes we all make.
> Thank goodness we have Jim to bail us out.
>
> I haven't been following the pictorial layouts because some
> of my stages are using surface mount devices. I sketch my
> own stage layout, making errors even before I apply solder.
> My progress is slow.
>
> I have been testing each stage with a 9 volt battery which
> probably saved some smoke when I applied reverse polarity
> to the VFO. The VFO didn't work, but the 9 v battery didn't
> supply enough current to destroy it.
> Lucky dog.
>
> I've tried taking photos but they look like assorted blobs of
> solder on the copper-clad board. Not a pretty picture. It will
> take a lot of pork rinds to appease the judges at FDIM (everyone
> that looks at it). Brian's SMK-1 didn't need many.
>
> Keep posting progress reports, folks. They help the rest of us.
>
> 72,
> Kaye, K8GZ Lancaster, OH
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hi group.
I finished the audio stage, and I am hearing lots of signals on the
band. I guess you could say it works. Glad to hear the product
detector is working!
My received audio is extremely low though. I am using a small 8 ohm
speaker from an old radio I had. With the volume at the maximum, the
audio is still very low. Should I build the 1st audio pre-amp that is
posted in the files section? Is there something else I should try
first? Putting a jumper across the 2.2M ohm resistor between the
Drain and Source of the 2N7000 brings the level up a fair ammount, but
I don't think I should have to do that.
I want to get the receiver working flawlessly before starting the Tx
section. I have performed the receiver alignment, and I am fairly
confident that I have that set correctly.
I think the sensitivity of the receiver might be ok, because I heard a
QRP station from W0, which hopefully is a good indication being that
I'm in the W8 area (Dayton).
Thanks for all of the help.
Jeff - K8GD
|
1961|1960|2002-03-30 09:23:54|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: The audio stage is done|At 04:48 AM 3/30/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>Hi group.
>
>I finished the audio stage, and I am hearing lots of signals on the
>band. I guess you could say it works. Glad to hear the product
>detector is working!
>
>My received audio is extremely low though. I am using a small 8 ohm
>speaker from an old radio I had. With the volume at the maximum, the
>audio is still very low. Should I build the 1st audio pre-amp that is
>posted in the files section? Is there something else I should try
>first? Putting a jumper across the 2.2M ohm resistor between the
>Drain and Source of the 2N7000 brings the level up a fair ammount, but
>I don't think I should have to do that.
Do you have the Rx signal lead wired to the Rx Mute circuit? Sounds
like you don't, and the 2N7000 is actually in the "muted" mode,
and not being biased into conduction by the gate bias provided by
the Rx control signal.
The little audio pre-amp does add more volume, and I've kept it
in my 2nd rig.
>I want to get the receiver working flawlessly before starting the Tx
>section. I have performed the receiver alignment, and I am fairly
>confident that I have that set correctly.
Good. If you can tune around 40 meters and not be able to
tune in the SSB stations correctly, then you've got it setup
right. The rig operates on the upper sideband.
72 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
Hello fellow builders!
Not enough notice last night, so I will get be on with my newborn
Sunday night at 300Z. 7.040 +/- If anyone thinks a different time
or freq would be better, let me know.
I need to search the old messages regarding the sidetone. Mine is
blasting me pretty good. Hey, I'm so excited to be making contacts
on a rig that I built from scratch... it's no problem. I'm turning
it down when I transmit. So far I've worked IN, VA, CA and OR.
Getting nice comments on how thie radio sounds on the other end.
Also need to build the RIT.
Having a ball!
73
Tom
N0DSP
|
1963|1960|2002-03-30 09:46:59|Jeff Hecht|Re: The audio stage is done|Jim,
The Rx signal lead is connected, that is what is so puzzling. To give
you an idea of the audio quality, you practically have to have your ear
on the speaker to hear the audio. Only moderatly to very strong signals
are somewhat audible. I'm still not completely sure if the front end,
and IF amp are working correctly.
The oscilloscope I borrowed has turned out to be more trouble than it is
worth. The vertical amp has big problems, and I can't take very
good/reliable measurements, so troubleshooting my receiver with the
pictures of the waveforms is next to impossible. I'm trying to locate
another scope.
As you can tell, I'm pretty stumped. I have been working on this
problem for about a week, trying to get things going, but the best I
have been able to come up with is extremely weak audio. Jumping the
resistor on the source/drain of the 2N7000 only improves the audio
slightly.
The DC bias voltages on the transisitors are fairly close to the
schematic, and I am reasonably certain that I have the transformers
wound correctly.
Thanks for your help on everything Jim. I'll keep plugging away. I
know I am close, I just don't know where to go from here.
72
Jeff - K8GD
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 04:48 AM 3/30/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>
> >Hi group.
> >
> >I finished the audio stage, and I am hearing lots of signals on the
> >band. I guess you could say it works. Glad to hear the product
> >detector is working!
> >
> >My received audio is extremely low though. I am using a small 8 ohm
> >speaker from an old radio I had. With the volume at the maximum, the
>
> >audio is still very low. Should I build the 1st audio pre-amp that
> is
> >posted in the files section? Is there something else I should try
> >first? Putting a jumper across the 2.2M ohm resistor between the
> >Drain and Source of the 2N7000 brings the level up a fair ammount,
> but
> >I don't think I should have to do that.
>
> Do you have the Rx signal lead wired to the Rx Mute circuit? Sounds
> like you don't, and the 2N7000 is actually in the "muted" mode,
> and not being biased into conduction by the gate bias provided by
> the Rx control signal.
>
> The little audio pre-amp does add more volume, and I've kept it
> in my 2nd rig.
>
>
> >I want to get the receiver working flawlessly before starting the Tx
> >section. I have performed the receiver alignment, and I am fairly
> >confident that I have that set correctly.
>
> Good. If you can tune around 40 meters and not be able to
> tune in the SSB stations correctly, then you've got it setup
> right. The rig operates on the upper sideband.
>
> 72 and thanks for the update,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Looked for you last night and ran into Jim....K8IQY and I had a 2n2 qso but
I never heard you.
Yes the 0300z is a much better time on the right coast.
Ill be there 04/01/02-0300z and that is not a April Fools...
Wes W3ERU
At 09:43 AM 3/30/02, you wrote:
>Hello fellow builders!
>
>Not enough notice last night, so I will get be on with my newborn
>Sunday night at 300Z. 7.040 +/- If anyone thinks a different time
>or freq would be better, let me know.
>
>I need to search the old messages regarding the sidetone. Mine is
>blasting me pretty good. Hey, I'm so excited to be making contacts
>on a rig that I built from scratch... it's no problem. I'm turning
>it down when I transmit. So far I've worked IN, VA, CA and OR.
>Getting nice comments on how thie radio sounds on the other end.
>
>Also need to build the RIT.
>
>Having a ball!
>
>73
>
>Tom
>N0DSP
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
If you jumper the resistor across the audio mute and the audio comes up
quite a bit, it sounds to me like the audio mute isn't hooked up properly or
has a bad part. So make sure it's getting Rx power and is hooked up properly
(I don't remember which lead is which, but I think there is a message in
archives about it).
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 04:48:40 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] The audio stage is done
>
> Hi group.
>
> I finished the audio stage, and I am hearing lots of signals on the
> band. I guess you could say it works. Glad to hear the product
> detector is working!
>
> My received audio is extremely low though. I am using a small 8 ohm
> speaker from an old radio I had. With the volume at the maximum, the
> audio is still very low. Should I build the 1st audio pre-amp that is
> posted in the files section? Is there something else I should try
> first? Putting a jumper across the 2.2M ohm resistor between the
> Drain and Source of the 2N7000 brings the level up a fair ammount, but
> I don't think I should have to do that.
>
> I want to get the receiver working flawlessly before starting the Tx
> section. I have performed the receiver alignment, and I am fairly
> confident that I have that set correctly.
>
> I think the sensitivity of the receiver might be ok, because I heard a
> QRP station from W0, which hopefully is a good indication being that
> I'm in the W8 area (Dayton).
>
> Thanks for all of the help.
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I'll be there too! Looking forward to some more 2n2 QSO's.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: Wes Clopton <w3eru@drix.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 10:03:03 -0500
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2 Schedule
>
> Looked for you last night and ran into Jim....K8IQY and I had a 2n2 qso but
> I never heard you.
> Yes the 0300z is a much better time on the right coast.
> Ill be there 04/01/02-0300z and that is not a April Fools...
>
> Wes W3ERU
>
> At 09:43 AM 3/30/02, you wrote:
>> Hello fellow builders!
>>
>> Not enough notice last night, so I will get be on with my newborn
>> Sunday night at 300Z. 7.040 +/- If anyone thinks a different time
>> or freq would be better, let me know.
>>
>> I need to search the old messages regarding the sidetone. Mine is
>> blasting me pretty good. Hey, I'm so excited to be making contacts
>> on a rig that I built from scratch... it's no problem. I'm turning
>> it down when I transmit. So far I've worked IN, VA, CA and OR.
>> Getting nice comments on how thie radio sounds on the other end.
>>
>> Also need to build the RIT.
>>
>> Having a ball!
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Tom
>> N0DSP
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hi folks -
With only seven days to go before Atlanticon, we thought we'd share some
more details on the fabulous line-up of presentations we have ready for
attendees.
(Further updates concerning Atlanticon will come in a separate posting, and
can be seen on the Atlanticon web pages at
http://www.njqrp.org/atlanticon).
We are really privileged to have JIM KORTGE, K8IQY present again at
Atlanticon. We in the QRP community have greatly benefited from Jim's master
craftsmanship in QRP homebrewing arenas and his legendary designs of the
2N2/40 Transceiver, the 2N2/6 Transverter, the 2N2/15 Transceiver, the 4017
Transverter, the improved IA-QRP 10 Transceiver and many other projects.
This year, K8IQY is delivering a paper entitled "Simplified Tools and
Methods for Measuring Crystals". It describes an approach for measuring
crystal parameters using relatively simple test apparatus and test setups.
Some of the required test instruments are easily built using Manhattan-style
construction methods. Others can be obtained on the surplus market at low
cost. With careful use the resulting crystal parameter values are
comparable in accuracy to those measured with instruments costing thousands
of dollars. The same instruments and setup can also be used for measuring
crystals for use in multi-pole filters.
--------------
Who is JIM KORTGE, K8IQY ?
Jim was first licensed in November of 1957 as KN8IQY, at age 14. Sometime
later in the summer of '58, he advanced to Conditional class, and call
K8IQY. The Conditional class license was issued to those living more than
125 miles from an FCC office, and unable to test before an FCC examiner.
He first operated QRP on 75 meters as a novice, using a single 6AQ5
oscillator, and later on 160 meters, using an AM rig consisting of a 6AQ5
oscillator modulated by a second 6AQ5. Back then, 6AQ5 tubes were akin to
today's 2N2222 transistor. Those rigs were the beginnings of his building
career.
Jim's formal education was at Michigan Tech University; he graduated in 1966
with a BS Degree in Engineering Physics. The next 31-½ years were spend
working for General Motors at their Vehicle Safety and Crashworthiness
Laboratory, part of the GM Proving Ground, near Milford, Michigan. His
responsibilities while at the lab included instrumentation systems design,
crash test dummy design, and software design. He held numerous supervisory
and middle management positions, and was the "head dummy" for several years.
His original call lapsed in the early 1970's due to interest changes, and
raising a family. He returned to amateur radio in 1988 with call NU8N. His
new license was obtained in one 5 hour VE session where he passed all of the
written and CW test elements in a single sitting. He regained his original
K8IQY call when the FCC began the vanity licensing programs, and gave first
priority to previous holders of their old calls.
Jim retired from GM in the summer of 1998, and spends his time riding
bicycle and operating bicycle mobile when the weather is good. He has also
been learning r.f. design since retirement; applying that knowledge to
designing and building QRP gear, most of it discrete component, and
specialized test equipment. His free time has also allowed him to return to
his music, and he is back playing guitar with a local big band. Recently,
he has returned to bluegrass banjo picking in anticipation of some gigs with
daughter Amy.
He has been married to Kathy, KB8IMP for 35 years, and they have a son and a
daughter. Both children are engineers, working for GM, helping to fund
their dad's retirement!
-----------
There's still time to make plans to attend Atlanticon QRP Forum in
Baltimore, MD next weekend. It's easy to get to, there are rooms still
available at the hotel, and you'll be joining about 150 other QRPers in
having a great time. There's a grand prize drawing for an Elecraft 4-band
K1 Transceiver and many door prizes. A big hamfest is in the area and it'll
still be open on Sunday morning after the QRP activities of Friday evening
through Saturday evening are complete. We have a building contest on
Saturday evening for everyone's homebrewing & kit building show 'n tell
pleasure (with prizes for the winners), and there's a special fun event
planned with the Badger "smartbadge" kit that every attendee receives in
advance or at the door.
Sure hope to see you there!
73, George N2APB
n2apb@amsat.org of the NJQRP Club at
http://www.njqrp.org Atlanticon QRP Forum
http://www.njqrp.org/atlanticonJeff -
Make sure you get the schematic for version 2 of the audio pre-amp. I think
it is definitely an improvement. It helped me a lot.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Scientists often have a naive faith that if only they could discover enough
facts about a problem, these facts would somehow arrange themselves in a
compelling and true solution.
--Theodosius Dobzhansky
----- Original Message -----
From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 11:48 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] The audio stage is done
> Hi group.
>
> I finished the audio stage, and I am hearing lots of signals on the
> band. I guess you could say it works. Glad to hear the product
> detector is working!
>
> My received audio is extremely low though. I am using a small 8 ohm
> speaker from an old radio I had. With the volume at the maximum, the
> audio is still very low. Should I build the 1st audio pre-amp that is
> posted in the files section? Is there something else I should try
> first? Putting a jumper across the 2.2M ohm resistor between the
> Drain and Source of the 2N7000 brings the level up a fair ammount, but
> I don't think I should have to do that.
>
> I want to get the receiver working flawlessly before starting the Tx
> section. I have performed the receiver alignment, and I am fairly
> confident that I have that set correctly.
>
> I think the sensitivity of the receiver might be ok, because I heard a
> QRP station from W0, which hopefully is a good indication being that
> I'm in the W8 area (Dayton).
>
> Thanks for all of the help.
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Jeff -
Build the audio preamp. It will solve your problems and all will be right
with the world.
Lee
KM4YY
All the codes of ethics they'll try to ram down your throat are just so
much paper money put out by swindlers to fleece people of their
virtues. The code of competence is the only system of morality that's
on a gold standard.
-- Ayn Rand
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Hecht" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 9:50 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] The audio stage is done
> Jim,
>
> The Rx signal lead is connected, that is what is so puzzling. To give
> you an idea of the audio quality, you practically have to have your ear
> on the speaker to hear the audio. Only moderatly to very strong signals
> are somewhat audible. I'm still not completely sure if the front end,
> and IF amp are working correctly.
>
> The oscilloscope I borrowed has turned out to be more trouble than it is
> worth. The vertical amp has big problems, and I can't take very
> good/reliable measurements, so troubleshooting my receiver with the
> pictures of the waveforms is next to impossible. I'm trying to locate
> another scope.
>
> As you can tell, I'm pretty stumped. I have been working on this
> problem for about a week, trying to get things going, but the best I
> have been able to come up with is extremely weak audio. Jumping the
> resistor on the source/drain of the 2N7000 only improves the audio
> slightly.
>
> The DC bias voltages on the transisitors are fairly close to the
> schematic, and I am reasonably certain that I have the transformers
> wound correctly.
>
> Thanks for your help on everything Jim. I'll keep plugging away. I
> know I am close, I just don't know where to go from here.
>
> 72
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
> "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> > At 04:48 AM 3/30/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
> >
> > >Hi group.
> > >
> > >I finished the audio stage, and I am hearing lots of signals on the
> > >band. I guess you could say it works. Glad to hear the product
> > >detector is working!
> > >
> > >My received audio is extremely low though. I am using a small 8 ohm
> > >speaker from an old radio I had. With the volume at the maximum, the
> >
> > >audio is still very low. Should I build the 1st audio pre-amp that
> > is
> > >posted in the files section? Is there something else I should try
> > >first? Putting a jumper across the 2.2M ohm resistor between the
> > >Drain and Source of the 2N7000 brings the level up a fair ammount,
> > but
> > >I don't think I should have to do that.
> >
> > Do you have the Rx signal lead wired to the Rx Mute circuit? Sounds
> > like you don't, and the 2N7000 is actually in the "muted" mode,
> > and not being biased into conduction by the gate bias provided by
> > the Rx control signal.
> >
> > The little audio pre-amp does add more volume, and I've kept it
> > in my 2nd rig.
> >
> >
> > >I want to get the receiver working flawlessly before starting the Tx
> > >section. I have performed the receiver alignment, and I am fairly
> > >confident that I have that set correctly.
> >
> > Good. If you can tune around 40 meters and not be able to
> > tune in the SSB stations correctly, then you've got it setup
> > right. The rig operates on the upper sideband.
> >
> > 72 and thanks for the update,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Gang,
Would someone please send me the URLs that I need. I
went to yahoogroups.com and did a search for 2n2-40 and the
group is not shown. I suppose since it is a specialized group....
I need the archives and I need the pointers to the latest
.pdf files with the schematics for the 2N2222/40 rig to check
against the version numbers that I have.
Thanks for the help and I don't understand why I didn't
bookmark when I was there. Stupid is as stupid does......[Gump]
I will be on 40 meters starting sunset here in AZ working all
that I hear. Hope to catch you all on this evening or late
Sunday.
dit dit
Chuck Adams, K7QO CP-60
k7qo@earthlink.net http://www.qsl.net/k7qo Moving to Arizona? --- Bring your own water, please.
At 02:43 PM 3/30/02 +0000, Tom N0DSP, wrote:
>Hello fellow builders!
>
>Not enough notice last night, so I will get be on with my newborn
>Sunday night at 300Z. 7.040 +/- If anyone thinks a different time
>or freq would be better, let me know.
Nuts! I was on last nite looking for you. Didn't hear you,
but had a short QSO with Wes, W3ERU on his 2N2/40. Also got
a call after that from Rich, WB9LPU of home brew bug fame. If
you haven't seen some of Rich's keys, go to FDIM this year
and check them out. He does awsome work!!
Will look for you on Sunday.......
>I need to search the old messages regarding the sidetone. Mine is
>blasting me pretty good. Hey, I'm so excited to be making contacts
>on a rig that I built from scratch... it's no problem. I'm turning
>it down when I transmit. So far I've worked IN, VA, CA and OR.
>Getting nice comments on how thie radio sounds on the other end.
Sure sounds like it is getting out ok. We can fix the loud
sidetone problem probably. At least improve it quite a bit.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I recently set my old IC 751A transceiver up in West Virginia. It seems to
have an intermittent problem with SSB and CW on 40 meters and below
(actually I didn't examine ops on 160). More often than not the radio it
sounds like the radio does not get the BFO injected on 40 meters and below.
CW signal is raspy and not musical. SSB is there but once again almost
impossible to understand. Every once in awhile it works fine and I can get a
40 meter CW QSO. (Thankfully, I always have my 2N2-40 with me to satisfy 40
meter CW cravings!)
The radio has the out of band transmit modification and the Wilco ICM1024B
modification that replaces the Icom EX-314-01 RAM unit as I was planning on
using the radio during a long duration cruise. It worked without problem
after the modifications were made.
SInce this group has some of the smartest hams I've ever known in
attendance, I though I might ask for free advice before searching for
someone to fix it.
73 de Lee, KM4YY
The Romans did not create a great empire by having meetings; they did it by
killing off their enemies.
--anonymous
|
1973|1960|2002-03-30 13:32:56|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: The audio stage is done|At 09:50 AM 3/30/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>The Rx signal lead is connected, that is what is so puzzling. To give
>you an idea of the audio quality, you practically have to have your ear
>on the speaker to hear the audio. Only moderatly to very strong signals
>are somewhat audible. I'm still not completely sure if the front end,
>and IF amp are working correctly.
>
>The oscilloscope I borrowed has turned out to be more trouble than it is
>worth. The vertical amp has big problems, and I can't take very
>good/reliable measurements, so troubleshooting my receiver with the
>pictures of the waveforms is next to impossible. I'm trying to locate
>another scope.
>
>As you can tell, I'm pretty stumped. I have been working on this
>problem for about a week, trying to get things going, but the best I
>have been able to come up with is extremely weak audio. Jumping the
>resistor on the source/drain of the 2N7000 only improves the audio
>slightly.
>
>The DC bias voltages on the transisitors are fairly close to the
>schematic, and I am reasonably certain that I have the transformers
>wound correctly.
>
>Thanks for your help on everything Jim. I'll keep plugging away. I
>know I am close, I just don't know where to go from here.
>
>72
>
>Jeff - K8GD
Jeff,
The problem might be in the audio section itself. Check everything
there and make sure you have all of the transistors installed correctly.
Easy to put in one of the push-pull pair in incorrectly, especially if
you are using the illustration from QRPp. It is wrong!
The other thought is that you have the LO incorrectly adjusted, and
it may be too far outside the passband of the filter. That can really
lower the receiver sensitivity. Read my little epistle on Yahoo about
how to adjust the Rx LO.
72 and keep up the good work and good posts,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
Will do. I have double checked the audio stage, and I am fairly certain
it is right. I am using the AA0ZZ layout from the yahoo group. The
only problem I have found with his layout so far is that it incorrectly
shows how to build the DBM. Other than that, it has been right on the
money.
I am also going to build the audio pre amp per Lee's suggestion. It
certainly can't hurt :)
I'm dying to get this thing on the air! I want to partake in the fun
you guys are having!!!!
Thanks for the help and the suggestions.
Jeff - K8GD
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 09:50 AM 3/30/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Jim,
> >
> >The Rx signal lead is connected, that is what is so puzzling. To
> give
> >you an idea of the audio quality, you practically have to have your
> ear
> >on the speaker to hear the audio. Only moderatly to very strong
> signals
> >are somewhat audible. I'm still not completely sure if the front
> end,
> >and IF amp are working correctly.
> >
> >The oscilloscope I borrowed has turned out to be more trouble than it
> is
> >worth. The vertical amp has big problems, and I can't take very
> >good/reliable measurements, so troubleshooting my receiver with the
> >pictures of the waveforms is next to impossible. I'm trying to
> locate
> >another scope.
> >
> >As you can tell, I'm pretty stumped. I have been working on this
> >problem for about a week, trying to get things going, but the best I
> >have been able to come up with is extremely weak audio. Jumping the
> >resistor on the source/drain of the 2N7000 only improves the audio
> >slightly.
> >
> >The DC bias voltages on the transisitors are fairly close to the
> >schematic, and I am reasonably certain that I have the transformers
> >wound correctly.
> >
> >Thanks for your help on everything Jim. I'll keep plugging away. I
> >know I am close, I just don't know where to go from here.
> >
> >72
> >
> >Jeff - K8GD
>
> Jeff,
>
> The problem might be in the audio section itself. Check everything
> there and make sure you have all of the transistors installed
> correctly.
> Easy to put in one of the push-pull pair in incorrectly, especially if
>
> you are using the illustration from QRPp. It is wrong!
>
> The other thought is that you have the LO incorrectly adjusted, and
> it may be too far outside the passband of the filter. That can really
>
> lower the receiver sensitivity. Read my little epistle on Yahoo about
>
> how to adjust the Rx LO.
>
> 72 and keep up the good work and good posts,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Chuck,
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/ Happy Easter!
73 -HW WP4GVW (ex KP4ABF)
--- Chuck Adams <
k7qo@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> Gang,
>
> Would someone please send me the URLs that I need.
> I
> went to yahoogroups.com and did a search for 2n2-40
> and the
> group is not shown. I suppose since it is a
> specialized group....
>
> I need the archives and I need the pointers to the
> latest
> .pdf files with the schematics for the 2N2222/40 rig
> to check
> against the version numbers that I have.
>
> Thanks for the help and I don't understand why I
> didn't
> bookmark when I was there. Stupid is as stupid
> does......[Gump]
>
> I will be on 40 meters starting sunset here in AZ
> working all
> that I hear. Hope to catch you all on this evening
> or late
> Sunday.
>
> dit dit
>
>
> Chuck Adams, K7QO CP-60 k7qo@earthlink.net
> http://www.qsl.net/k7qo
>
> Moving to Arizona? --- Bring your own water,
> please.
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover
http://greetings.yahoo.com/Gang,
I got a hold of my Dad's camera this weekend and snapped some shots of the
RX/TX driver of Num2. This camera is a Sony FD-81 and has a nice LCD on the
back and a macro mode. Having the LCD on the back makes lining up the shots
very easy.
They are located in the FILES (not the photos) section 2n240-pictures/N1QO/
RX-TX-1.JPG
RX-TX-2.JPG
RX-TX-3.JPG
RX-TX-4.JPG
Couple of things to look for in these pics;
1. The NPN SMD's are using Surface Mount Pads - I'm really happy with them
(I know I keep saying that, but they are cool)! More info on these at
http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/smp/ - I'm thinking I might use SMP's for two
sided parts as well as transistors, just put the groove down the middle.
2. C66 is piggybacked on top of R62 - this worked surprisingly well. I'm
wondering how high these things can be stacked.
3. C68 comes off a pad to ground. It's tiny and barely made it. I think the
0804 size is about the smallest you can effectively use for manhattan style.
Anxiously awaiting my Dan's order so I can get rolling on the VFO.
Oh yeah, OL_NUM_1.JPG - A shot of the AF Pre-amp in the radio I'm now
calling ol' #1.
73,
John, N1QO
At 04:23 PM 3/30/02 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>Gang,
>
>I got a hold of my Dad's camera this weekend and snapped some shots of the
>RX/TX driver of Num2. This camera is a Sony FD-81 and has a nice LCD on the
>back and a macro mode. Having the LCD on the back makes lining up the shots
>very easy.
>
>They are located in the FILES (not the photos) section 2n240-pictures/N1QO/
>
>RX-TX-1.JPG
>RX-TX-2.JPG
>RX-TX-3.JPG
>RX-TX-4.JPG
>
>Couple of things to look for in these pics;
>
>1. The NPN SMD's are using Surface Mount Pads - I'm really happy with them
>(I know I keep saying that, but they are cool)! More info on these at
>http://www.qsl.net/kb1ens/smp/ - I'm thinking I might use SMP's for two
>sided parts as well as transistors, just put the groove down the middle.
>
>2. C66 is piggybacked on top of R62 - this worked surprisingly well. I'm
>wondering how high these things can be stacked.
>
>3. C68 comes off a pad to ground. It's tiny and barely made it. I think the
>0804 size is about the smallest you can effectively use for manhattan style.
How thick are those pads? I've found with 0.032 inch pads made from
the thin PC board material, that running a part from a pad to ground
is a bit easier. Also, using the Islander pad cutter when you have a
part to ground makes that task easy too.
>Anxiously awaiting my Dan's order so I can get rolling on the VFO.
>
>Oh yeah, OL_NUM_1.JPG - A shot of the AF Pre-amp in the radio I'm now
>calling ol' #1.
Speaking of 'OL #1, when I had the rig here, one of the thoughts
that crossed my mind was that you could probably shorten all of the
connecting leads quite a bit if you rotated the board 180 degrees.
Did you consider doing that? Seems like most of the leads, especially
the audio would be much shorter, if I'm remembering the layout that
you used.
72 and thanks for the SMT pix. 1/4 watt resistors sure do look big
don't they!!
Jim, K8IQY
Was my 2N2/40+ receiver coming to life!!!!!!!!
I built the audio pre-amp, and installed it. I turned on the radio,
and ....... nothing! It was the same as before. I thought to
myself "now wait just a minute!" I got out the poor excuse of a
scope that I have been using and found audio on one side of the
2N7000, but none on the other. I bypassed the FET and WOW! What
nice audio and lots of signals to be coppied on the band!!!!!
Either the FET is bad, or I have it installed wrong. I looked up
the data sheet on the 2N7000 and I am assuming I have it installed
right. Looking at the case of the transistor with the flat part
toward me and the leads going down, from left to right it is
Source - Gate - Drain. Am I right?
Also, another question. I notice the audio circuit is resonant
below the frequency I would like to listen to CW on (700Hz). Do
I need to change C37 to increase the resonant frequency? If so,
do I want to add or remove capacitance? If not, what do I need
to do.
Thanks Jim and the group! You guys are great and I couldn't have
gotten a working receiver going without your excellent help!
72
Jeff - K8GD "owner of a working 2N2/40+ receiver!"
|
1979|1978|2002-03-30 21:46:05|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: That sound you just heard?|At 02:27 AM 3/31/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>Was my 2N2/40+ receiver coming to life!!!!!!!!
>
>I built the audio pre-amp, and installed it. I turned on the radio,
>and ....... nothing! It was the same as before. I thought to
>myself "now wait just a minute!" I got out the poor excuse of a
>scope that I have been using and found audio on one side of the
>2N7000, but none on the other. I bypassed the FET and WOW! What
>nice audio and lots of signals to be coppied on the band!!!!!
>
>Either the FET is bad, or I have it installed wrong. I looked up
>the data sheet on the 2N7000 and I am assuming I have it installed
>right. Looking at the case of the transistor with the flat part
>toward me and the leads going down, from left to right it is
>Source - Gate - Drain. Am I right?
Yes, that's correct!! Sounds like it is either open, or there
is no gate drive. Either one would explain why you are not hearing
any audio coming through.
>Also, another question. I notice the audio circuit is resonant
>below the frequency I would like to listen to CW on (700Hz). Do
>I need to change C37 to increase the resonant frequency?
Yes, you could do that.
> If so,
>do I want to add or remove capacitance?
As you go up in frequency, C37 goes down in value, since the inductor
(the primary of T10) is fixed. Just scale the capacitor by the frequency
ratio.
> If not, what do I need
>to do.
It's rather broad in response, that's why I said you could do that.
I'm not sure it will change the peak. The peak you are hearing my
well be that of the crystal filter, in which case, you need to change
the LO injection point just a bit by moving trimmer TC5. The resonant
peak you are hearing also could be a resonance in the speaker you have
connected. All are possibilities, and I hope I haven't confused you
be suggesting all of the possibilities that popped into my head.
>Thanks Jim and the group! You guys are great and I couldn't have
>gotten a working receiver going without your excellent help!
72 and let us all know what the problem was with the Rx Mute
circuit.
Jim, K8IQY
> How thick are those pads? I've found with 0.032 inch pads made from
> the thin PC board material, that running a part from a pad to ground
Don't know for sure, and have no micrometer to measure with. I've got some
"thinner" material now and will make some pads out of it for that purpose.
> is a bit easier. Also, using the Islander pad cutter when you have a
> part to ground makes that task easy too.
>
>
>> Anxiously awaiting my Dan's order so I can get rolling on the VFO.
>>
>> Oh yeah, OL_NUM_1.JPG - A shot of the AF Pre-amp in the radio I'm now
>> calling ol' #1.
>
> Speaking of 'OL #1, when I had the rig here, one of the thoughts
> that crossed my mind was that you could probably shorten all of the
> connecting leads quite a bit if you rotated the board 180 degrees.
> Did you consider doing that? Seems like most of the leads, especially
> the audio would be much shorter, if I'm remembering the layout that
> you used.
Yeah, I got sort of "lead happy", if you will, while laying it out. I don't
think it hurt me... much anyway. My reasoning was if a PC board can have
"leads" running all over/under, my layout would still be pretty tight.
>
> 72 and thanks for the SMT pix. 1/4 watt resistors sure do look big
> don't they!!
HUGE!
73,
John, N1QO
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Lee,
I tried replying to your previous email privately and it bounced again.
Anyone I reply to in the rr.com domain bounces... I'm guessing they've got
my domain on some sort of SPAM list which I have no idea how to get off. I
had your other email address but seem to have misplaced it.
Anyway, yes let me know what you come up with and I'll gladly trade some of
my SMT cache.
Please send me your other email address again too, I'll put it in my address
book.
73 es Happy Easter everyone. Looking forward to hearing some 2n2-40's
tonight.
John, N1QO
|
1982|1978|2002-03-31 07:56:50|Jeff Hecht|Re: That sound you just heard?|>
> >Either the FET is bad, or I have it installed wrong. I looked up
> >the data sheet on the 2N7000 and I am assuming I have it installed
> >right. Looking at the case of the transistor with the flat part
> >toward me and the leads going down, from left to right it is
> >Source - Gate - Drain. Am I right?
>
> Yes, that's correct!! Sounds like it is either open, or there
> is no gate drive. Either one would explain why you are not hearing
> any audio coming through.
I just measured the gate, and there is 6.1 volts on the gate from the Rx
line. Does this sound
like enough gate drive?
>
>
> >Also, another question. I notice the audio circuit is resonant
> >below the frequency I would like to listen to CW on (700Hz). Do
> >I need to change C37 to increase the resonant frequency?
>
> Yes, you could do that.
>
> > If so,
> >do I want to add or remove capacitance?
>
> As you go up in frequency, C37 goes down in value, since the inductor
> (the primary of T10) is fixed. Just scale the capacitor by the
> frequency
> ratio.
>
> > If not, what do I need
> >to do.
>
> It's rather broad in response, that's why I said you could do that.
> I'm not sure it will change the peak. The peak you are hearing my
> well be that of the crystal filter, in which case, you need to change
> the LO injection point just a bit by moving trimmer TC5. The resonant
>
> peak you are hearing also could be a resonance in the speaker you have
>
> connected. All are possibilities, and I hope I haven't confused you
> be suggesting all of the possibilities that popped into my head.
I have the LO set so that it's audio peak is 700 Hz. That works very
well. Still, I noticed on the
scope that as I go down in audio freqency there is a resonant point in
the audio circuit. I might
change C37 to see what happens.
>
>
>
> >Thanks Jim and the group! You guys are great and I couldn't have
> >gotten a working receiver going without your excellent help!
>
> 72 and let us all know what the problem was with the Rx Mute
> circuit.
Absoultely will!
>
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
72
Jeff - K8GD--- In 2n2-40@y..., Jeff Hecht
wrote:
>
> I just measured the gate, and there is 6.1 volts on the gate from
the Rx
> line. Does this sound
> like enough gate drive?
>
Jeff I measured the gate on mine and have 6.67 volts, so it sounds
like yours is ok. My supply voltage is 13.9v. Can't be much more
help than that.
Good Luck!
Tom
N0DSPAt 07:59 AM 3/31/02 -0500, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
> >
>
>
>
> > >Either the FET is bad, or I have it installed wrong. I looked up
> > >the data sheet on the 2N7000 and I am assuming I have it installed
> > >right. Looking at the case of the transistor with the flat part
> > >toward me and the leads going down, from left to right it is
> > >Source - Gate - Drain. Am I right?
> >
> > Yes, that's correct!! Sounds like it is either open, or there
> > is no gate drive. Either one would explain why you are not hearing
> > any audio coming through.
>
>I just measured the gate, and there is 6.1 volts on the gate from the Rx
>line. Does this sound
>like enough gate drive?
Yes, sure does. Any DC voltage on either the gate or source leads?
There shouldn't be! Sounds like the 2N7000 is frapped and needs to be
replaced.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
The guests have all left, the hambone is in the fridge for tomorrows pea
soup and the kids are in bed...
I'll be calling CQ on the 2n2-40 about 9pm eastern tonight (aprox 20 minutes
from now). Hope to hear you folks.
73,
John, N1QO
|
1987|1978|2002-03-31 21:53:00|Jeff Hecht|Re: That sound you just heard?|> >I just measured the gate, and there is 6.1 volts on the gate from the
> Rx
> >line. Does this sound
> >like enough gate drive?
>
> Yes, sure does. Any DC voltage on either the gate or source leads?
> There shouldn't be! Sounds like the 2N7000 is frapped and needs to be
>
> replaced.
Just measured it. Yep... DC on the source (or drain... could be both
since I have the source-drain connection jumped). My mission at lunch
tomorrow.... find a 2N7000 and replace it tomorrow night. I will report
back when I know more.
>
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
72,
Jeff - K8GD
VERY GOOD TOM,,,QSL 449 QSB QRN IN MD
STATIC REAL BAD BUT TKS FOR QSO
W3ERU Wes
ARRL
FISTS #2099
QRPARCI 8304
QRP-L 2179
CW is my Mode
|
1989|1988|2002-03-31 23:33:39|n0dsp|Re: QSL IT WORKS GOOD|--- In 2n2-40@y..., Wes Clopton
wrote:
> VERY GOOD TOM,,,QSL 449 QSB QRN IN MD
> STATIC REAL BAD BUT TKS FOR QSO
Wes,
Thanks for looking for me!! It sure was great to work you and my
first 2N2-2N2 contact. Your rig sounded great! After I talked with
you, Tom, KC0GXX called me and we had a nice QSO. Boy those 2N2/40's
sound sweet on the air. It was my pleasure guys, thanks for finding
me and the nice QSO's.
As I was calling CQ 2N2, the first guys that called me was XE1AL,
Jose in San Luis Mexico.... first DX on the newborn!! My antenna is
a 40 meter dipole up only 20 feet.
Now to build the RIT and work on the sidetone. This week I'll be
looking for an enclosure. And Wes, the dial you gave me will be
displayed proudly on the front!! Thanks again for it!
Thanks again guys!! For those that looked for me, but didn't find
me, Thanks to you too. I'm looking forward to our first official
2N2/40 QSO party.
Tonights Log!
300Z XE1AL Jose in San Luis, Mexico
317Z W3ERU Wes in MD
326Z KC0GXX Tom in Lincoln, NE
357Z AA8EK Steve in Hamilton, OH
One hour of fun... think I'll go look around some more.
73
Tom
N0DSPGang,
I was just made aware of an error in the 2N2-40 layout files that
I have posted in the files section of the 2N2-40 group.
I had two diodes (D2 and D3) reversed in the receiver's
Double Balanced Mixer. I also wired my 2N2-40 incorrectly, to
match the layout. Don't know how it worked this way, but it appears
that I was only using half of the input signal. Will make the correction
and see what difference it makes.
I just posted a new version of the two layout files. Also a Revision
History file. ( Folder: AA0ZZ Schematic and Layout. )
Thanks to Jeff, K8GD, for pointing this out!
72,
Craig, AA0ZZ
|
1991|1991|2002-04-01 18:47:27|dek8gd|Status report.|I am exceedingly happy to report that the receiver portion of my
2N2/40+ is working VERY well! I replaced the 2N7000 and it works
great! Thanks to all who helped me get this far! I am having the
time of my life.
Also, I uploaded another picture of my progress. This picture shows
my progress through the and audio stage. You will also notice the
pre-amp board soldered to the side of the main board. It fits
perfectly there!
Now, time to cut more pads and start the Tx!!!!!!!
Thanks again.
72
Jeff - K8GD
|
1992|1991|2002-04-01 20:27:17|John Wagner|Re: Status report.|Looking good Jeff, nice job.
You must of ordered from Dan's too, those parts look familiar. ;)
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 23:47:24 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Status report.
>
> I am exceedingly happy to report that the receiver portion of my
> 2N2/40+ is working VERY well! I replaced the 2N7000 and it works
> great! Thanks to all who helped me get this far! I am having the
> time of my life.
>
> Also, I uploaded another picture of my progress. This picture shows
> my progress through the and audio stage. You will also notice the
> pre-amp board soldered to the side of the main board. It fits
> perfectly there!
>
> Now, time to cut more pads and start the Tx!!!!!!!
>
> Thanks again.
>
> 72
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
John,
Thanks for the compliment. I'm having a great time with this. I cut
and glued the pads down for the first part of the transmitter tonight,
then played with the receiver for about an hour. Heard lots of stations
calling CQ, and it was killing me not being able to answer! This
receiver is very nice. Jim did a great job designing it. I am learning
so much. This is the most fun I have ever had with ham radio. I'm
really looking forward to FDIM to meet a lot of the QRP guru's.
Yes, I did order a whole bunch of stuff from Dan's. He has very nice
parts, and decent prices. Some of the pars I ordered from digikey, and
a few odds and ends from other places. Pretty soon, I'll be looking for
a cabinet to put this in and mount the controls.
72,
Jeff - K8GD
John Wagner wrote:
> Looking good Jeff, nice job.
>
> You must of ordered from Dan's too, those parts look familiar. ;)
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 23:47:24 -0000
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Status report.
> >
> > I am exceedingly happy to report that the receiver portion of my
> > 2N2/40+ is working VERY well! I replaced the 2N7000 and it works
> > great! Thanks to all who helped me get this far! I am having the
> > time of my life.
> >
> > Also, I uploaded another picture of my progress. This picture shows
>
> > my progress through the and audio stage. You will also notice the
> > pre-amp board soldered to the side of the main board. It fits
> > perfectly there!
> >
> > Now, time to cut more pads and start the Tx!!!!!!!
> >
> > Thanks again.
> >
> > 72
> >
> > Jeff - K8GD
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
When it rains it pours! Dan's order came today, along with the Tiny Tube 80
kit I ordered, 13 reels of various SMT parts and 5 PC games (ok, one Mac
game) I ordered last week.
No wonder I have no free time.
Anyway, I've got a bit of sorting to do and then it's on to the VFO for #2.
73,
John, N1QO
|
1995|1991|2002-04-02 00:41:51|Dennis Ponsness|Re: Status report.|>I am exceedingly happy to report that the receiver portion of my
>2N2/40+ is working VERY well! I replaced the 2N7000 and it works
>great! Thanks to all who helped me get this far! I am having the
>time of my life.
>
>Also, I uploaded another picture of my progress. This picture shows
>my progress through the and audio stage. You will also notice the
>pre-amp board soldered to the side of the main board. It fits
>perfectly there!
>
>Now, time to cut more pads and start the Tx!!!!!!!
>
Jeff - FANTASTIC!!! I found the TX a LOT easier than the RX (HI HI) so I
expect to hear you on the air real soon! Hope to have time Tues or Wed
nite to get on mine and make a few Q's! Been a busy 6 weeks here at work
and at home. Well, time to slow down and smell the RF!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
2N2/40+ #26
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.Hey gang... just another update (I hope I'm not posting too much).
Just finished the TX local oscillator, TX SB Mixer and Cascode amp.
It works! The only thing left is the RF Driver, Amp, and Filter to
get it on the air.
I may be delayed for a short time, though, because I noticed I am
short 1 2N2222A (TO18) transistor. Doh! Hope I won't have too much
trouble finding one of those locally :) I shouldn't, it's a pretty
common part.
Thanks for all of the great feedback guys. I mean it when I say that
you are the best bunch of hams I have ever come accross.
72,
Jeff - K8GD
|
1997|1996|2002-04-02 22:05:07|John Wagner|Re: Good progress|> Hey gang... just another update (I hope I'm not posting too much).
I don't think you're posting too much - enjoying every one!
> Just finished the TX local oscillator, TX SB Mixer and Cascode amp.
> It works! The only thing left is the RF Driver, Amp, and Filter to
> get it on the air.
Kewl. ;)
> I may be delayed for a short time, though, because I noticed I am
> short 1 2N2222A (TO18) transistor. Doh! Hope I won't have too much
> trouble finding one of those locally :) I shouldn't, it's a pretty
> common part.
If you've got a Radio Shack, you've got 2n2222's.
Looking forward to hearing that new radio soon. ;)
73,
John, N1QO
>
> Thanks for all of the great feedback guys. I mean it when I say that
> you are the best bunch of hams I have ever come accross.
>
> 72,
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Jeff -
While you are searching for your transistor, make sure that the stages that
you have finished are working correctly. Your should be able to hear a 40
meter CW signal in your station receiver if you lay an antenna line near the
input to the Driver. Verify that it tunes with the VFO over the range you
think it should. You can peak the signal with the appropriate trimmers by
looking at the signal across the 100 ohm trimmer. If all goes well, you
will be able to face the ordeals posed by the transformer in the rf driver
circuit (That was the last of the transformers that I managed to either wind
or hook up incorrectly!) If you know your are good up to the 100 ohm pot,
you can forget about a lot of possible problems in finishing the
transmitter.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
"Clintonesque" is an adjective meaning "oily dissembler, shunned by decent
society".
--Ann Coulter, 30 Aug 2001
----- Original Message -----
From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 9:49 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Good progress
> Hey gang... just another update (I hope I'm not posting too much).
>
> Just finished the TX local oscillator, TX SB Mixer and Cascode amp.
> It works! The only thing left is the RF Driver, Amp, and Filter to
> get it on the air.
>
> I may be delayed for a short time, though, because I noticed I am
> short 1 2N2222A (TO18) transistor. Doh! Hope I won't have too much
> trouble finding one of those locally :) I shouldn't, it's a pretty
> common part.
>
> Thanks for all of the great feedback guys. I mean it when I say that
> you are the best bunch of hams I have ever come accross.
>
> 72,
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
BTW, plastic 2N2222s are easy to find. If you ever run across some metal
ones, make sure you let the list know about it!
73 de Lee
KM4YY
The only options open for girls then were, of course, mother, secretary,
or teacher...I must say how lucky we are, as women, to live in an age where
"Dental Hygienist" has been added to the list.
--Roseanne
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Good progress
> > Hey gang... just another update (I hope I'm not posting too much).
>
> I don't think you're posting too much - enjoying every one!
>
> > Just finished the TX local oscillator, TX SB Mixer and Cascode amp.
> > It works! The only thing left is the RF Driver, Amp, and Filter to
> > get it on the air.
>
> Kewl. ;)
>
> > I may be delayed for a short time, though, because I noticed I am
> > short 1 2N2222A (TO18) transistor. Doh! Hope I won't have too much
> > trouble finding one of those locally :) I shouldn't, it's a pretty
> > common part.
>
> If you've got a Radio Shack, you've got 2n2222's.
>
> Looking forward to hearing that new radio soon. ;)
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> >
> > Thanks for all of the great feedback guys. I mean it when I say that
> > you are the best bunch of hams I have ever come accross.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jeff - K8GD
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs"
wrote:
> BTW, plastic 2N2222s are easy to find. If you ever run across some
metal
> ones, make sure you let the list know about it!
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
Lee,
I just bought some metal ones from Mouser. Mouser part # 610-2N2222A
at .33 in you buy 100 or more.
FYI
Tom Little
N0DSPI also enjoy your posts.
Hurry up! This rig is so fun. I just had a neat QSO with a KD7 from
Washington state (I'm in Nebraska). He finally got my call after several
tries, so on my last xmission I "hopped it up" a bit from 2 watts to about 3
watts, and he got me fine! I guess a significant raise in power, huh?
Hope ya have as much fun with this rig as I have. It has easily swept my
other rigs almost completely off the desk, I like it that much. Its really a
great rig.
Have I said that before? :)
Keep at it
Tom
KC0GXX
----- Original Message -----
From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 3:49 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Good progress
> Hey gang... just another update (I hope I'm not posting too much).
>
> Just finished the TX local oscillator, TX SB Mixer and Cascode amp.
> It works! The only thing left is the RF Driver, Amp, and Filter to
> get it on the air.
>
> I may be delayed for a short time, though, because I noticed I am
> short 1 2N2222A (TO18) transistor. Doh! Hope I won't have too much
> trouble finding one of those locally :) I shouldn't, it's a pretty
> common part.
>
> Thanks for all of the great feedback guys. I mean it when I say that
> you are the best bunch of hams I have ever come accross.
>
> 72,
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Lee,
The Tx driver is very loud in my station receiver with a wire laying
near the 2N2/40+. I also measured the output at the wiper of pot 4.
With the pot set roughly at it's midpoint, I am getting about
280 mvp-p, and can also hear it in the sidetone. Reading other posts
here, that seems about right.
We have a couple of great surpulus houses here in Dayton (Midwest
surplus and Mendelsons). I ought to be able to find a metal 2N2222A
at one of these places. If not, I can always bite the bullet and
order some from Mouser. 1 stinkin' transistor! Oh well.
Thanks to all for the posts and the encouragement. I've said it
before and I'll say it again, ....... great bunch of hams!
72,
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> Jeff -
> While you are searching for your transistor, make sure that the
stages that
> you have finished are working correctly. Your should be able to
hear a 40
> meter CW signal in your station receiver if you lay an antenna line
near the
> input to the Driver. Verify that it tunes with the VFO over the
range you
> think it should. You can peak the signal with the appropriate
trimmers by
> looking at the signal across the 100 ohm trimmer. If all goes well, you
> will be able to face the ordeals posed by the transformer in the rf
driver
> circuit (That was the last of the transformers that I managed to
either wind
> or hook up incorrectly!) If you know your are good up to the 100
ohm pot,
> you can forget about a lot of possible problems in finishing the
> transmitter.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
>
> "Clintonesque" is an adjective meaning "oily dissembler, shunned by
decent
> society".
> --Ann Coulter, 30 Aug 2001
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dek8gd"
> To: <2n2-40@y...>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 9:49 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Good progress
>
>
> > Hey gang... just another update (I hope I'm not posting too much).
> >
> > Just finished the TX local oscillator, TX SB Mixer and Cascode amp.
> > It works! The only thing left is the RF Driver, Amp, and Filter to
> > get it on the air.
> >
> > I may be delayed for a short time, though, because I noticed I am
> > short 1 2N2222A (TO18) transistor. Doh! Hope I won't have too much
> > trouble finding one of those locally :) I shouldn't, it's a pretty
> > common part.
> >
> > Thanks for all of the great feedback guys. I mean it when I say that
> > you are the best bunch of hams I have ever come accross.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jeff - K8GD
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
Jeff,
No. If you can't get a metal 2N2222A locally, email me
and I'll send you some (you might need a spare).
73,
Kaye, K8GZ
|
2004|1996|2002-04-03 08:36:01|Lee Mairs|Re: Good progress|Jeff -
If you can't get one today, let me know, and I'll drop one in the mail for
you. I have a couple of spares left over from purchases from Brian. He
occasionally posts sale offerings on the QRP list, and has some good prices.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
The only thing standing between me and total happiness is reality.
--Douglas Porter
----- Original Message -----
From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 7:38 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Good progress
> Lee,
>
> The Tx driver is very loud in my station receiver with a wire laying
> near the 2N2/40+. I also measured the output at the wiper of pot 4.
> With the pot set roughly at it's midpoint, I am getting about
> 280 mvp-p, and can also hear it in the sidetone. Reading other posts
> here, that seems about right.
>
> We have a couple of great surpulus houses here in Dayton (Midwest
> surplus and Mendelsons). I ought to be able to find a metal 2N2222A
> at one of these places. If not, I can always bite the bullet and
> order some from Mouser. 1 stinkin' transistor! Oh well.
>
> Thanks to all for the posts and the encouragement. I've said it
> before and I'll say it again, ....... great bunch of hams!
>
> 72,
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> > Jeff -
> > While you are searching for your transistor, make sure that the
> stages that
> > you have finished are working correctly. Your should be able to
> hear a 40
> > meter CW signal in your station receiver if you lay an antenna line
> near the
> > input to the Driver. Verify that it tunes with the VFO over the
> range you
> > think it should. You can peak the signal with the appropriate
> trimmers by
> > looking at the signal across the 100 ohm trimmer. If all goes well, you
> > will be able to face the ordeals posed by the transformer in the rf
> driver
> > circuit (That was the last of the transformers that I managed to
> either wind
> > or hook up incorrectly!) If you know your are good up to the 100
> ohm pot,
> > you can forget about a lot of possible problems in finishing the
> > transmitter.
> > 73 de Lee
> > KM4YY
> >
> >
> > "Clintonesque" is an adjective meaning "oily dissembler, shunned by
> decent
> > society".
> > --Ann Coulter, 30 Aug 2001
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "dek8gd"
> > To: <2n2-40@y...>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 9:49 PM
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Good progress
> >
> >
> > > Hey gang... just another update (I hope I'm not posting too much).
> > >
> > > Just finished the TX local oscillator, TX SB Mixer and Cascode amp.
> > > It works! The only thing left is the RF Driver, Amp, and Filter to
> > > get it on the air.
> > >
> > > I may be delayed for a short time, though, because I noticed I am
> > > short 1 2N2222A (TO18) transistor. Doh! Hope I won't have too much
> > > trouble finding one of those locally :) I shouldn't, it's a pretty
> > > common part.
> > >
> > > Thanks for all of the great feedback guys. I mean it when I say that
> > > you are the best bunch of hams I have ever come accross.
> > >
> > > 72,
> > >
> > > Jeff - K8GD
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I probably won't get a chance to look for one until this weekend. I
also need to get some heat sinks for these little gems, so I'll let
you all know if I have any trouble getting them. Thanks for all of
the offers. I really hope I have the chance to help out.
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> Jeff -
> If you can't get one today, let me know, and I'll drop one in the
mail for
> you. I have a couple of spares left over from purchases from Brian. He
> occasionally posts sale offerings on the QRP list, and has some good
prices.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
> The only thing standing between me and total happiness is reality.
> --Douglas Porter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dek8gd"
> To: <2n2-40@y...>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 7:38 AM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Good progress
>
>
> > Lee,
> >
> > The Tx driver is very loud in my station receiver with a wire laying
> > near the 2N2/40+. I also measured the output at the wiper of pot 4.
> > With the pot set roughly at it's midpoint, I am getting about
> > 280 mvp-p, and can also hear it in the sidetone. Reading other posts
> > here, that seems about right.
> >
> > We have a couple of great surpulus houses here in Dayton (Midwest
> > surplus and Mendelsons). I ought to be able to find a metal 2N2222A
> > at one of these places. If not, I can always bite the bullet and
> > order some from Mouser. 1 stinkin' transistor! Oh well.
> >
> > Thanks to all for the posts and the encouragement. I've said it
> > before and I'll say it again, ....... great bunch of hams!
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jeff - K8GD
> >
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> > > Jeff -
> > > While you are searching for your transistor, make sure that the
> > stages that
> > > you have finished are working correctly. Your should be able to
> > hear a 40
> > > meter CW signal in your station receiver if you lay an antenna line
> > near the
> > > input to the Driver. Verify that it tunes with the VFO over the
> > range you
> > > think it should. You can peak the signal with the appropriate
> > trimmers by
> > > looking at the signal across the 100 ohm trimmer. If all goes
well, you
> > > will be able to face the ordeals posed by the transformer in the rf
> > driver
> > > circuit (That was the last of the transformers that I managed to
> > either wind
> > > or hook up incorrectly!) If you know your are good up to the 100
> > ohm pot,
> > > you can forget about a lot of possible problems in finishing the
> > > transmitter.
> > > 73 de Lee
> > > KM4YY
> > >
> > >
> > > "Clintonesque" is an adjective meaning "oily dissembler, shunned by
> > decent
> > > society".
> > > --Ann Coulter, 30 Aug 2001
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "dek8gd"
> > > To: <2n2-40@y...>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 9:49 PM
> > > Subject: [2n2-40] Good progress
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hey gang... just another update (I hope I'm not posting too much).
> > > >
> > > > Just finished the TX local oscillator, TX SB Mixer and Cascode
amp.
> > > > It works! The only thing left is the RF Driver, Amp, and
Filter to
> > > > get it on the air.
> > > >
> > > > I may be delayed for a short time, though, because I noticed I am
> > > > short 1 2N2222A (TO18) transistor. Doh! Hope I won't have
too much
> > > > trouble finding one of those locally :) I shouldn't, it's a
pretty
> > > > common part.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for all of the great feedback guys. I mean it when I
say that
> > > > you are the best bunch of hams I have ever come accross.
> > > >
> > > > 72,
> > > >
> > > > Jeff - K8GD
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
At 12:38 PM 4/3/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Lee,
>
>The Tx driver is very loud in my station receiver with a wire laying
>near the 2N2/40+. I also measured the output at the wiper of pot 4.
>With the pot set roughly at it's midpoint, I am getting about
>280 mvp-p, and can also hear it in the sidetone. Reading other posts
>here, that seems about right.
>
>We have a couple of great surpulus houses here in Dayton (Midwest
>surplus and Mendelsons). I ought to be able to find a metal 2N2222A
>at one of these places. If not, I can always bite the bullet and
>order some from Mouser. 1 stinkin' transistor! Oh well.
>
>Thanks to all for the posts and the encouragement. I've said it
>before and I'll say it again, ....... great bunch of hams!
>
>72,
>
>Jeff - K8GD
Jeff,
Just say so and I'll mail you a metal transistor tomorrow. No charge.
I have a number of them that I will never use in my own lifetime. :-)
dit dit
Chuck Adams, K7QO CP-60
k7qo@earthlink.net http://www.qsl.net/k7qo Moving to Arizona? --- Bring your own water, please.
Chuck,
Thanks for the offer. I'll let you know if I need one. Building this
radio is one of the most fun things I have done. My XYL thinks I'm a
little nuts, and I probably am. My 5 year old daughter came into the
shack last night and told me that she liked ham radio. She said she
likes the neat sounds. I have to admit she is right :)
Again, thanks for the offer, and I'll let you know if I need one.
Jeff - K8GD
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Chuck Adams
k7qo@earthlink.net Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 22:59:11 +0100
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Good progress
At 12:38 PM 4/3/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Lee,
>
>The Tx driver is very loud in my station receiver with a wire laying
>near the 2N2/40+. I also measured the output at the wiper of pot 4.
>With the pot set roughly at it's midpoint, I am getting about
>280 mvp-p, and can also hear it in the sidetone. Reading other posts
>here, that seems about right.
>
>We have a couple of great surpulus houses here in Dayton (Midwest
>surplus and Mendelsons). I ought to be able to find a metal 2N2222A
>at one of these places. If not, I can always bite the bullet and
>order some from Mouser. 1 stinkin' transistor! Oh well.
>
>Thanks to all for the posts and the encouragement. I've said it
>before and I'll say it again, ....... great bunch of hams!
>
>72,
>
>Jeff - K8GD
Jeff,
Just say so and I'll mail you a metal transistor tomorrow. No charge.
I have a number of them that I will never use in my own lifetime. :-)
dit dit
Chuck Adams, K7QO CP-60 k7qo@earthlink.net
http://www.qsl.net/k7qo">http://www.qsl.net/k7qo>
Moving to Arizona? --- Bring your own water, please.
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor |
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http://mail2web.com/ .
Jeff,
I'll send you heat sinks. Is your address OK on QRZ?
Arth
-----------original message------------
I probably won't get a chance to look
for one until this weekend. I
also need to get some heat sinks for
these little gems, so I'll let
you all know if I have any trouble
getting them. Thanks for all of
the offers. I really hope I have the
chance to help out.
Jeff - K8GD
|
2009|1996|2002-04-03 22:44:42|dek8gd|Re: Good progress|Wow you guys are nice! Yes, my address is good on the QRZ website.
Thanks again to everyone. I finished the power amp tonight (minus one
transistor). I know this thing is going to work... I can just feel
it! I can't wait to work you guys on my new 2N2/40+. I'm very
close to having it on the air.
Best 72!
Jeff - K8GD "One impressed new homebrewer"
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Arth Silvers wrote:
> Jeff,
>
> I'll send you heat sinks. Is your address OK on QRZ?
>
> Arth
>
> -----------original message------------
> I probably won't get a chance to look
> for one until this weekend. I
> also need to get some heat sinks for
> these little gems, so I'll let
> you all know if I have any trouble
> getting them. Thanks for all of
> the offers. I really hope I have the
> chance to help out.
>
> Jeff - K8GD
Group,
Some of you may be interested in building the 2N2/15 that is on Jim's
website. Well, I decided a while back to do so, and with Jim's
assistance I have been working on the VFO section and just got it
finished tonite and IT WORKS!!!! Frequency is a bit low, but I will
"tweak" it down to the right area!
I have been using 'hybrid" construction, i.e. a mix of thru-hole and
SMT parts. Also, with Jim's help, I have made a couple of mods to the
original design on the webpage that I will share with you.
1. The varactor has been changed to a MV1662 type versus the MVAM108. I
did not have any '108's but did have '1662's here. They work just as
well. I do however only have a 155kHz spread on the VFO instead of the
200kHz that Jim got with his original design. I do not know if that is
because of the different varactor or not. May just be the result of the
"hideous constrution" method I used!
2. I needed to change the value of C9 from 39pF to 22pF to get it
closer to the correct frequency. I will probably have to play with that
value some to get it right on frequency. YMMV of course due to
variations in your components, etc.
3. I used a Mini-Circuits SBL-1 Mixer instead of "rolling my own". I
had 'em and decided to use it.
Now it is on to the RX section of the rig! And I want to thank Jim
again for his assistance as I know that he has a lot on his plate right
now and his time is at a premium.
72 es keep them irons hot!
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
2011|2011|2002-04-06 04:22:33|n0dsp|Best way to trim board?|Hello gang,
I have a case for my 2N2-40, but will need to trim my board. I'll
need to take about 1 inch from all sides. What is the best way to do
this? (other than, before you build) :)
Hope everyone is doing good!
Thanks for your input!
Tom
N0DSP
|
2012|2011|2002-04-06 04:39:07|Wes Clopton|Re: Best way to trim board?|If you have that much , i would use a table saw or band saw.
VERY CAREFULLY
WES
At 04:22 AM 4/6/02, you wrote:
>Hello gang,
>
>I have a case for my 2N2-40, but will need to trim my board. I'll
>need to take about 1 inch from all sides. What is the best way to do
>this? (other than, before you build) :)
>
>Hope everyone is doing good!
>
>Thanks for your input!
>
>Tom
>N0DSP
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I would concur with Wes - I use a table to cut my boards to size before
building. Having all the parts mounted makes it more difficult (obviously),
I haven't tried using a table saw after the fact.
So yeah, CAREFULLY! ;)
73,
John, N1QO
> From: Wes Clopton <w3eru@drix.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 04:38:59 -0500
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Best way to trim board?
>
> If you have that much , i would use a table saw or band saw.
>
> VERY CAREFULLY
>
> WES
>
> At 04:22 AM 4/6/02, you wrote:
>> Hello gang,
>>
>> I have a case for my 2N2-40, but will need to trim my board. I'll
>> need to take about 1 inch from all sides. What is the best way to do
>> this? (other than, before you build) :)
>>
>> Hope everyone is doing good!
>>
>> Thanks for your input!
>>
>> Tom
>> N0DSP
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Tom,
The 'best' way is certainly a matter of opinion. Be that as it may, if
your board is fiberglass (G-10 or whatever it's called these days) based,
I would recommend scoring the board on both sides with a sharp object
then clamping the material to be removed in a bench vice (two pieces of
wood and 'C' clamps could substitute) and -carefully- snapping the excess
material off the main board. I have almost exclusively used this method
to cut copper-clad board but I must confess, I've never tried it on a
completed project :). I'd be somewhat concerned about flexing the board
and having the pads pop off. Good luck.
73.......Steve Smith, WB6TNL
Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
On Sat, 06 Apr 2002 09:22:32 -0000 "n0dsp" <
n0dsp@yahoo.com> writes:
> Hello gang,
>
> I have a case for my 2N2-40, but will need to trim my board. I'll
> need to take about 1 inch from all sides. What is the best way to
> do
> this?
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.If you use a table saw:
1. use a fine tooth or plywood blade
a abrasive blade would nice.
2. make sure your fench and miter guides s
are setup.
3. place your board on about 3/8
inch pressboard to absorb vibrations
Wes
At 10:00 AM 4/6/02, you wrote:
>Tom,
>
>The 'best' way is certainly a matter of opinion. Be that as it may, if
>your board is fiberglass (G-10 or whatever it's called these days) based,
>I would recommend scoring the board on both sides with a sharp object
>then clamping the material to be removed in a bench vice (two pieces of
>wood and 'C' clamps could substitute) and -carefully- snapping the excess
>material off the main board. I have almost exclusively used this method
>to cut copper-clad board but I must confess, I've never tried it on a
>completed project :). I'd be somewhat concerned about flexing the board
>and having the pads pop off. Good luck.
>
>73.......Steve Smith, WB6TNL
>Oxnard, CA USA
>"Snort Rosin"
>
>
>
>On Sat, 06 Apr 2002 09:22:32 -0000 "n0dsp" <n0dsp@yahoo.com> writes:
> > Hello gang,
> >
> > I have a case for my 2N2-40, but will need to trim my board. I'll
> > need to take about 1 inch from all sides. What is the best way to
> > do
> > this?
>
>________________________________________________________________
>GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
>Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
>Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
>http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Guys,
Thanks for the ideas. I did go ahead and use the radial arm saw. I
have a pretty good blade on it and it didn't seem to produce a lot of
vibration. I think everything will be ok. Will know for sure when I
fire it back up.
Using the saw to cut the copper clad makes me want to try doing a
copper case. Guess if you did, you could possibly polish and clear
coat it, or just paint it.
Thanks for the help guys!
73
Tom
N0DSP
|
2017|2011|2002-04-06 10:45:26|Wes Clopton|Re: Best way to trim board?|YEP YEP YEP
At 10:41 AM 4/6/02, you wrote:
>Guys,
>
>Thanks for the ideas. I did go ahead and use the radial arm saw. I
>have a pretty good blade on it and it didn't seem to produce a lot of
>vibration. I think everything will be ok. Will know for sure when I
>fire it back up.
>
>Using the saw to cut the copper clad makes me want to try doing a
>copper case. Guess if you did, you could possibly polish and clear
>coat it, or just paint it.
>
>Thanks for the help guys!
>
>73
>
>Tom
>N0DSP
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I had a similar problem and sweated bullets the entire time I was trimming
with a set of tin snips. I was just sure the pads were going to pop off the
board as the board flexed. All went fine.
Jim Kortge and I had our 2n2-40s at Atlanticon and received many oohs and
ahs. I think we recruited about three more potential builders. Jim gave a
great brief on how to measure the crystal parameters necessary for
constructing filters. It was very well received. He was later shocked on
Saturday afternoon to win a prestigious award from the NJ QRP Club for his
many contributions to the community. Very well deserved.
73 de Lee
Never doubt that a small group of committed citizens can change the
world. Indeed, it is the only thing that ever does.
--Margaret Mead
----- Original Message -----
From: "n0dsp" <n0dsp@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 4:22 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Best way to trim board?
> Hello gang,
>
> I have a case for my 2N2-40, but will need to trim my board. I'll
> need to take about 1 inch from all sides. What is the best way to do
> this? (other than, before you build) :)
>
> Hope everyone is doing good!
>
> Thanks for your input!
>
> Tom
> N0DSP
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hey guys -
You missed a great bunch of sessions at Atlanticon this weekend - the best
being one by our own Jim Kortge explaining how he matched the crystals for
our filters. Plus, he was honored by the NJ QRP club. See below:
73 de Lee
KM4YY
As is characteristically done at the annual Atlanticon QRP Forum, the
prestigious "Most Significant Contribution to QRP" award was presented by
the NJQRP this weekend to a very deserving individual in the QRP community -
Jim Kortge, K8IQY
Jim's contributions to the QRP and homebrewing community over the last four
years have been nothing short of spectacular. He is a meticulous and
creative RF designer, a producer of kits, a patient and informative
instructor, a public speaker at QRP events, an accomplished and published
technical writer, and a absolute master craftsman who has done more to
champion the extremely successful "Manhattan-style" construction technique
than anyone else in our hobby.
Kortge is the designer of the immensely popular 2N2/40 Transceiver - a 40m
transceiver constructed solely of 2N2222 transistors and a winner of a
NorCal (or ARCI?) design contest a number of years ago. He wrote an article
published in NorCal's QRPp magazine concerning his 2N2/40 design and it was
the subject of tremendous excitement in ensuing years as others built his
design.
In the recent 8 months, Kortge has sponsored and actively manages a very
popular "2N2/40" email list on Yahoo, wherein over 150 hams have been
building their own versions of Jim's 2N2/40 transceiver. He has
painstakingly encouraged every neophyte homebrewer, helped to source and
find parts, and has updated his design to yield more readily reproducible
results - the sign of a good design, and of an excellent designer. There are
many 2N2/40 transceivers on the air now because of Jim's assistance and
careful guidance along the way, and that group is very loyal and
appreciative to Jim.
Since designing the 2N2/40 Transceiver, K8IQY has evolved the design to
produce a 2N2/6 Transverter. This project was the subject of a paper and
talk at a prior year's Atlanticon and FDIM QRP forums. To listen to the
presentation, and to read the very thorough technical manuscript which was
published in the respective Proceedings, even a staunch and inveterate QRP
technical veteran (such as some of us) stood in complete awe at his work.
Kortge then went on to build another variant of the 2N2-series, but this
time focusing on the Manhattan-style technique that made him famous. He
designed and produced the 4017 Transverter, which again was presented in
full technical glory at Atlanticon and FDIM QRP forms. Further, the design
was so good and so sought after, the NJQRP collaborated with Jim to produce
a kit of his 4017 design. This project was very well received and ultimately
sold over 200 kits around the world.
His next project is not yet as well known because of its being so new on the
scene, but many people will got a chance to see and hear of it at the
Atlanticon QRP Forum this past weekend. Jim presented a topic close to his
own interests - crystal calibration and measurement techniques, and I can
tell you that the paper is just awesome. Further, the NJQRP Club is once
again collaborating with Kortge to produce the test equipment he's presente,
in the form of a Precision VXO Kit which was announced at the Atlanticon
weekend. Many are predicting that this project will be of great interest to
many hams in the QRP and homebrewing community.
About a year ago, Kortge teamed up with Chuck Adams, K7FO to participate in
a very public "construction contest" concerning the Iowa QRP 10 Transceiver
project. Over the course of months, both Kortge and Adams meticulously
documented and described their modular Manhattan-style construction of the
project, publishing detailed photos, circuit descriptions and assembly
techniques on the NorCal website (sponsors of the event). Jim was first to
completethe project and his version featured numerous design improvements
long the way that made the project more usable and reproducible.
Jim Kortge is an affable, modest and very accomplished technician in the QRP
and homebrewing scene. His technical, speaking, publishing and educational
contributions stand heads and shoulders above the average QRPer, and we are
so fortunate to have K8IQY in our hobby.
|
2020|2019|2002-04-08 00:45:00|Dennis Ponsness|Re: Jim Kortge honored at Atlanticon|>As is characteristically done at the annual Atlanticon QRP Forum, the
>prestigious "Most Significant Contribution to QRP" award was >presented by
>the NJQRP this weekend to a very deserving individual in >the QRP community
>- Jim Kortge, K8IQY
Jim,
Congrats for this award. I can think of no one more deserving of it!
72 es WAY TO GO!!!
Dennis - WB0WAO
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspxHey guys!
I just had my first QSO with N8ME on my new 2N2/40+!!!!!!!!
I am south of Dayton, and He is in London, OH... not DX or anything,
but not bad. I called CQ, and he answered on my very first call. RST
was 559! You guys would have been laughing yourself silly watchin me!
I was tapping out CW with an alligator clip on the circuit board and
smiling VERY hugely!
Now, on to the case, knobs, jacks, etc....
A huge, huge, huge thanks to all of the people who have helped me
with this! Tons of help from Jim, lots of encouragement from others,
and a few parts from Jim, Kaye (K8GZ), and Arth (W6AGS).
N8ME (Mark) answered me very high, so I think I need to tweak the
transmit freqency.
Best 72 to all, and I'll upload pictures soon!
IT WORKS... IT WORKS!!!!!!!
Jeff - K8GD
P.S. ... did I mention that IT WORKS!!!!!
|
2022|2021|2002-04-08 19:38:45|Wes Clopton|Re: My 2N2/40 Is On The Air!!!!!!!!|Get down off the roof before you fall.....
Isnt it a rush...first QSO with your 2n240.........Congratulations....ENJOY
Ill be looking for you on 40....
Wes W3ERU
At 07:14 PM 4/8/02, you wrote:
>Hey guys!
>
>I just had my first QSO with N8ME on my new 2N2/40+!!!!!!!!
>
>I am south of Dayton, and He is in London, OH... not DX or anything,
>but not bad. I called CQ, and he answered on my very first call. RST
>was 559! You guys would have been laughing yourself silly watchin me!
> I was tapping out CW with an alligator clip on the circuit board and
>smiling VERY hugely!
>
>Now, on to the case, knobs, jacks, etc....
>
>A huge, huge, huge thanks to all of the people who have helped me
>with this! Tons of help from Jim, lots of encouragement from others,
>and a few parts from Jim, Kaye (K8GZ), and Arth (W6AGS).
>
>N8ME (Mark) answered me very high, so I think I need to tweak the
>transmit freqency.
>
>Best 72 to all, and I'll upload pictures soon!
>
>IT WORKS... IT WORKS!!!!!!!
>
>Jeff - K8GD
>
>P.S. ... did I mention that IT WORKS!!!!!
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 11:14 PM 4/8/02 +0000, Jeff - K8GD wrote:
>Hey guys!
>
>I just had my first QSO with N8ME on my new 2N2/40+!!!!!!!!
>
>-snippity snip-
>
>IT WORKS... IT WORKS!!!!!!!
>
>Jeff - K8GD
>
>P.S. ... did I mention that IT WORKS!!!!!
Jeff.....I'm all smiles, and delighted that you've got it
done, working, and now have made a contact with your new
2N2/40+. Congratulations, and hope we can work sometime soon.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "dek8gd"
wrote:
> Hey guys!
>
> I just had my first QSO with N8ME on my new 2N2/40+!!!!!!!!
Jeff,
Congratulations on finishing your 2N2/40+ and making your first
contact. Feels GREAT doesn't it!!!!! You certainly have something
to be very proud of. The rig is a lot of fun to play with.
I'm getting mine in a case right now...
I hope to work you soon!
73
Tom
N0DSPJeff,
ALRIGHT! Almost like making your first QSO all over again :-) Will
look for you as well on the air!
72
Dennis - WBOWAO
2N2/40+ #26
|
2026|2026|2002-04-09 06:56:26|wb0wao@hotmail.com|Certificates, List, es Diodes|Since there have been several "births" recently, and I do remember
Preston saying he was getting out of the certificate issuance, did
someone take over for him. I THINK I remember Brian saying that he
would. It would be a shame if the newer guys could not get a cert like
the rest of us!
Also, I think we should compile a list of those who have built one with
the rig numbers for publication. I would be happy to be a "clearing
house" for that. Soooooo.... If you have been issued a certificate,
drop me an email with the number(s) you have received and I will compile
the list.
And I still have beaucoup zener diodes (D5,D24 and D27) here, so any of
the new builders needs a set, send me a SASE and I will shoot 'em out to
ya - I did a lifetime buy!
72 es CU on 40!
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
2027|2026|2002-04-09 08:31:05|Wes Clopton|Re: Certificates, List, es Diodes|W3ERU WES CLOPTON 2N2-40+ NUMBER 29
At 06:56 AM 4/9/02, you wrote:
>Since there have been several "births" recently, and I do remember
>Preston saying he was getting out of the certificate issuance, did
>someone take over for him. I THINK I remember Brian saying that he
>would. It would be a shame if the newer guys could not get a cert like
>the rest of us!
>
>Also, I think we should compile a list of those who have built one with
>the rig numbers for publication. I would be happy to be a "clearing
>house" for that. Soooooo.... If you have been issued a certificate,
>drop me an email with the number(s) you have received and I will compile
>the list.
W6AGS Arth Silvers 2N2/40 #16
|
2029|2026|2002-04-09 21:23:06|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N2/40 Certificates|Jim Kortge, K8IQY
Certificates 1 and 3. Preston Douglas, WJ2V has #2
|
2030|2030|2002-04-09 22:39:46|dek8gd|Updated Pictures|Hi gang.
I uploaded 2 more pictures of my newly born 2N2/40+. Also, just got
off the air with VE2AZJ.... 579 into Quebec from Dayton.... not bad
for 2 watts, a less than ideal antenna, and an aligator clip for
a key!
This radio is a blast!
Got my oscilloscope in the mail today. 100Mhz Panasonic for $33.00,
and it works very well. My XYL thinks I'm nuts... she's right!
Thanks again to all.
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
|
2031|2026|2002-04-09 23:01:01|Lee Mairs|Re: Certificates, List, es Diodes|Lee S. Mairs, KM4YY, 2N2-40 certificate #28
|
2032|2032|2002-04-09 23:18:23|Brian Murrey|2n2 certs|Guys,
I have every intention of getting with Preston soon to see about me
carrying on the 2N2 registrations.
As some of you may know, I've been caring for my stepdad who was
terminally ill with cancer for the last year. I lost my mom in
October and she was his primary caregiver....so I had to take over.
It's been a time consuming task to say the least.
This morning he passed away...so give me another 10 days and I will
work with Preston to try and keep the registration certs alive. They
are a great idea.
73 to all
|
2033|2033|2002-04-10 22:49:06|dek8gd|RIT question|Hi guys. The contacts seem to just be rolling in here on the 2N2/40.
This radio is a blast!
I have a question about the RIT. The schematics show that R70 is
a 1K pot. I have a really nice center detent pot from a vcr tracking
control that is 10K. Is there a change I can make to the circuit
that would allow me to use it?
Thanks for all of the help.
Jeff - K8GD
|
2034|2033|2002-04-11 01:22:24|Arth Silvers, W6AGS|Re: RIT question|Jeff,
For the sake of this technical discussion and for what it is worth, you
could parallel at 1.11111 K fixed resistor for an overall range of 0 to
1 K ohms. A 1.1K or 1.2K would effectively give close results. That
technique, however, is likely to distort the linear taper of the
potentiometer alone and your detent will probably not end up in the
center of the RIT frequency range.
I'm not sure if increasing R67 and R68 to 16K and 15K respectively
wouldn't cause some problem but it might be worth a try. That would give
you the same voltage swing across D28 as the original circuit.
Before you try these suggestions though, lets hear some other opinions.
72
Arth W6AGS
|
2035|2033|2002-04-11 08:16:34|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: RIT question|At 02:49 AM 4/11/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi guys. The contacts seem to just be rolling in here on the 2N2/40.
>This radio is a blast!
>
>I have a question about the RIT. The schematics show that R70 is
>a 1K pot. I have a really nice center detent pot from a vcr tracking
>control that is 10K. Is there a change I can make to the circuit
>that would allow me to use it?
>
>Thanks for all of the help.
>
>Jeff - K8GD
Jeff,
Yes, you can use that pot, but you'll have to make the two resistors
off the ends larger by 10X too. The 1.5K needs to be 15K, and the
1.6K needs to be 16K. Other than those changes, everything can stay
the same I believe.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....for those that are interested, I've got a version of the RIT
that I am working on that uses a 2N7000 FET, and seems to work even
better than the PN2222 version. Stay tuned for details.
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Jim and Arth,
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll give it a try and report back. I
think I'm going to put the radio in an enclosure first, then start the
RIT. Maybe by then the new version will be out and I can give it a
whirl ;)
Jeff - K8GD
>
> Jeff,
>
> Yes, you can use that pot, but you'll have to make the two resistors
> off the ends larger by 10X too. The 1.5K needs to be 15K, and the
> 1.6K needs to be 16K. Other than those changes, everything can stay
> the same I believe.
>
> 72 and GL,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS....for those that are interested, I've got a version of the RIT
> that I am working on that uses a 2N7000 FET, and seems to work even
> better than the PN2222 version. Stay tuned for details.
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Gang,
I just made a mod to my 2N2/40+ and now I have (just about) the full
100 kHz spread. I added a 20pF NP0 cap across C7. You may have to
play with the value a bit, but it did open up my VFO from 81 kHz to 98
kHz. Of course I didn't put TC3 in like I should have when I
built it!
The reason for my doing this is to take advantage of the 4017
transverter also designed by Jim. NJQRP still has some of these "bag
o'parts" kits available (I think) and you should pick one up as it is a
great way to get on another band with the 2N2! Jim did a great job with
it as well!
Bottom line is that don't be afraid to go back and improve on your
initial construction. The more you do, the more you understand about
this rig.
Now, back to working on the 4017!
72 es keep the irons smokin'
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
2038|2037|2002-04-11 11:17:01|Wes Clopton|Re: VFO Spread|I replaced c7 with a 150 pf NPO and put a 100k trim pot across the tuning
POT. That got me the spread and helped adjust it very linear..
WES
At 10:44 AM 4/11/02, you wrote:
>Gang,
> I just made a mod to my 2N2/40+ and now I have (just about) the full
>100 kHz spread. I added a 20pF NP0 cap across C7. You may have to
>play with the value a bit, but it did open up my VFO from 81 kHz to 98
>kHz. Of course I didn't put TC3 in like I should have when I
>built it!
> The reason for my doing this is to take advantage of the 4017
>transverter also designed by Jim. NJQRP still has some of these "bag
>o'parts" kits available (I think) and you should pick one up as it is a
>great way to get on another band with the 2N2! Jim did a great job with
>it as well!
> Bottom line is that don't be afraid to go back and improve on your
>initial construction. The more you do, the more you understand about
>this rig.
> Now, back to working on the 4017!
>
>72 es keep the irons smokin'
>
>Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I too bought a 4017 bag of parts at Atlanticon. There was also a guy there
who had one for Show n'Tell that was positively gorgeous. It looked like a
jeweler had built it. I've got a picture or too if anybody is interested.
It'll make you cry to look at the gorgeous work.
73 de Lee
km4yy
Every failure teaches a man something, to wit, that he will probably fail
again.
--H.L. Mencken
----- Original Message -----
From: <wb0wao@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 10:44 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] VFO Spread
> Gang,
> I just made a mod to my 2N2/40+ and now I have (just about) the full
> 100 kHz spread. I added a 20pF NP0 cap across C7. You may have to
> play with the value a bit, but it did open up my VFO from 81 kHz to 98
> kHz. Of course I didn't put TC3 in like I should have when I
> built it!
> The reason for my doing this is to take advantage of the 4017
> transverter also designed by Jim. NJQRP still has some of these "bag
> o'parts" kits available (I think) and you should pick one up as it is a
> great way to get on another band with the 2N2! Jim did a great job with
> it as well!
> Bottom line is that don't be afraid to go back and improve on your
> initial construction. The more you do, the more you understand about
> this rig.
> Now, back to working on the 4017!
>
> 72 es keep the irons smokin'
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
YES YES I WANTA SEE
WES
At 11:20 AM 4/11/02, you wrote:
>I too bought a 4017 bag of parts at Atlanticon. There was also a guy there
>who had one for Show n'Tell that was positively gorgeous. It looked like a
>jeweler had built it. I've got a picture or too if anybody is interested.
>It'll make you cry to look at the gorgeous work.
>73 de Lee
>km4yy
>
>Every failure teaches a man something, to wit, that he will probably fail
>again.
> --H.L. Mencken
I don't want to bog down your ISP connection so here is the first one. When
you want the second one let me know. They were taken by a ham in
Chesapeake, VA.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Thinking men cannot be ruled.
--Ayn Rand
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@drix.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] VFO Spread
> YES YES I WANTA SEE
>
> WES
>
> At 11:20 AM 4/11/02, you wrote:
> >I too bought a 4017 bag of parts at Atlanticon. There was also a guy
there
> >who had one for Show n'Tell that was positively gorgeous. It looked like
a
> >jeweler had built it. I've got a picture or too if anybody is
interested.
> >It'll make you cry to look at the gorgeous work.
> >73 de Lee
> >km4yy
> >
> >Every failure teaches a man something, to wit, that he will probably fail
> >again.
> > --H.L. Mencken
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
What do you mean "if anybody is interested"?
Are you a sadist? OF COURSE WE WANT TO SEE IT!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] VFO Spread
> I too bought a 4017 bag of parts at Atlanticon. There was also a
guy there
> who had one for Show n'Tell that was positively gorgeous. It looked
like a
> jeweler had built it. I've got a picture or too if anybody is
interested.
> It'll make you cry to look at the gorgeous work.
Lee - the list doesn't allow attachments. Can you post the pic(s) to the
Yahoo web site?
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:07:56 -0400
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] VFO Spread
>
> I don't want to bog down your ISP connection so here is the first one. When
> you want the second one let me know. They were taken by a ham in
> Chesapeake, VA.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
> Thinking men cannot be ruled.
> --Ayn Rand
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@drix.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 11:56 AM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] VFO Spread
>
>
>> YES YES I WANTA SEE
>>
>> WES
>>
>> At 11:20 AM 4/11/02, you wrote:
>>> I too bought a 4017 bag of parts at Atlanticon. There was also a guy
> there
>>> who had one for Show n'Tell that was positively gorgeous. It looked like
> a
>>> jeweler had built it. I've got a picture or too if anybody is
> interested.
>>> It'll make you cry to look at the gorgeous work.
>>> 73 de Lee
>>> km4yy
>>>
>>> Every failure teaches a man something, to wit, that he will probably fail
>>> again.
>>> --H.L. Mencken
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Where Lee?
At 01:07 PM 4/11/02, you wrote:
>I don't want to bog down your ISP connection so here is the first one. When
>you want the second one let me know. They were taken by a ham in
>Chesapeake, VA.
>73 de Lee
>KM4YY
>
>Thinking men cannot be ruled.
> --Ayn Rand
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@drix.net>
>To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 11:56 AM
>Subject: Re: [2n2-40] VFO Spread
>
>
> > YES YES I WANTA SEE
> >
> > WES
> >
> > At 11:20 AM 4/11/02, you wrote:
> > >I too bought a 4017 bag of parts at Atlanticon. There was also a guy
>there
> > >who had one for Show n'Tell that was positively gorgeous. It looked like
>a
> > >jeweler had built it. I've got a picture or too if anybody is
>interested.
> > >It'll make you cry to look at the gorgeous work.
> > >73 de Lee
> > >km4yy
> > >
> > >Every failure teaches a man something, to wit, that he will probably fail
> > >again.
> > > --H.L. Mencken
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I got my resistors. Looks like it will take some time to sort and
categorize them. I'll get some to you as soon as I can.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
The cable TV sex channels don't expand our horizons, don't make us better
people and don't come in clearly enough.
--Bill Maher
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] VFO Spread
> Lee - the list doesn't allow attachments. Can you post the pic(s) to the
> Yahoo web site?
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:07:56 -0400
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] VFO Spread
> >
> > I don't want to bog down your ISP connection so here is the first one.
When
> > you want the second one let me know. They were taken by a ham in
> > Chesapeake, VA.
> > 73 de Lee
> > KM4YY
> >
> > Thinking men cannot be ruled.
> > --Ayn Rand
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Wes Clopton" <w3eru@drix.net>
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 11:56 AM
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] VFO Spread
> >
> >
> >> YES YES I WANTA SEE
> >>
> >> WES
> >>
> >> At 11:20 AM 4/11/02, you wrote:
> >>> I too bought a 4017 bag of parts at Atlanticon. There was also a guy
> > there
> >>> who had one for Show n'Tell that was positively gorgeous. It looked
like
> > a
> >>> jeweler had built it. I've got a picture or too if anybody is
> > interested.
> >>> It'll make you cry to look at the gorgeous work.
> >>> 73 de Lee
> >>> km4yy
> >>>
> >>> Every failure teaches a man something, to wit, that he will probably
fail
> >>> again.
> >>> --H.L. Mencken
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
We've started a photo album page from the Atlanticon weekend. Since there's interest in the 4017 Transverter project done Manhattan style, I've uploaded those first.
See
http://www.njqrp.org/atlanticon/photos.html 73, Geo N2APB
Yes, Thanks for the pictures of the absolutely
beautiful construction. Makes me want to stomp
on my projects.
72,
Kaye, K8GZ
|
2049|2049|2002-04-12 14:08:40|John Wagner|Hot Carrier Mixer Diodes|Hello 2n2'ers,
I'm picking up some MMBD352LT1 SMT Hot Carrier Mixer diodes from Brad,
KG6IOE who is offering them on QRP-L.
What I'm thinking is I'll use these to replace the 1N4148's in the DBM, TX
Mixer and Product Detector.
I've got the spec sheet for the 352LT1's however I'm not sure what criteria
I'm looking for to ensure they can work as a replacement.
What is the criteria for which diodes to use in these sections?
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
|
2050|2049|2002-04-12 15:33:07|Wes Clopton|Re: Hot Carrier Mixer Diodes|Its a dual diode pack..only takes 2 to make a bridge for a DBM...........great
low forward voltage for better sensitivity.......
Wes
At 12:46 PM 4/12/02, you wrote:
>Hello 2n2'ers,
>
>I'm picking up some MMBD352LT1 SMT Hot Carrier Mixer diodes from Brad,
>KG6IOE who is offering them on QRP-L.
>
>What I'm thinking is I'll use these to replace the 1N4148's in the DBM, TX
>Mixer and Product Detector.
>
>I've got the spec sheet for the 352LT1's however I'm not sure what criteria
>I'm looking for to ensure they can work as a replacement.
>
>What is the criteria for which diodes to use in these sections?
>
>Thanks es 73,
>
>John, N1QO
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
OH A PAIR OF MATCHED DIODES
At 12:46 PM 4/12/02, you wrote:
>Hello 2n2'ers,
>
>I'm picking up some MMBD352LT1 SMT Hot Carrier Mixer diodes from Brad,
>KG6IOE who is offering them on QRP-L.
>
>What I'm thinking is I'll use these to replace the 1N4148's in the DBM, TX
>Mixer and Product Detector.
>
>I've got the spec sheet for the 352LT1's however I'm not sure what criteria
>I'm looking for to ensure they can work as a replacement.
>
>What is the criteria for which diodes to use in these sections?
>
>Thanks es 73,
>
>John, N1QO
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Many of you probably have exchange email or CW QSO's with W3ERU over the years. He
was a very avid supporter of the 2n2-40 list and project. Wes got his 2n2-40 rig
going maybe two months ago and was very excited about it, had 10-15 states worked
with it..
It's my sad duty to inform you that Wes is SK. He passed away last night (4/12) of
an apparent heart attack about 1900 EDT.
If you happen to be in the Southern Maryland area, here are the arrangements:
- The viewing is Monday, Raymond Funeral Home on Washington Ave, LaPlata,
1700-2000 (5PM-8PM) hours
- The Mass at Sacred Heart in LaPlata is Tuesday at 1000
Wes will be missed by all
jd
|
2054|2053|2002-04-13 22:56:23|John Wagner|Re: W3ERU -- SK|I'm very saddened to hear this news. I only knew Wes through this list and a
few private emails. We QSO'ed once, but it was very short. He was always
quick to help and a keen supporter of this group. You might notice that the
two emails prior to this one are from him. In fact, if you search back
through the 2n2-40 archives you'll find many messages from Wes.
For me personally, the most memorable message of this group came from Wes
after the attacks on our country. The message is archived here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/message/381 - I urge people to read it
- I think Wes would consider this to be an important way to remember him.
My condolences to his family and friends. He made this list a better place
and I'm glad he joined us here.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: JD Delancy <W1JD@drix.net>
> Organization: Every day of freedom is a good day thank a veteran ....
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:44:49 -0400
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] W3ERU -- SK
>
> Many of you probably have exchange email or CW QSO's with W3ERU over the
> years. He
> was a very avid supporter of the 2n2-40 list and project. Wes got his 2n2-40
> rig
> going maybe two months ago and was very excited about it, had 10-15 states
> worked
> with it..
>
> It's my sad duty to inform you that Wes is SK. He passed away last night
> (4/12) of
> an apparent heart attack about 1900 EDT.
>
> If you happen to be in the Southern Maryland area, here are the arrangements:
>
> - The viewing is Monday, Raymond Funeral Home on Washington Ave, LaPlata,
> 1700-2000 (5PM-8PM) hours
> - The Mass at Sacred Heart in LaPlata is Tuesday at 1000
>
> Wes will be missed by all
>
> jd
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I too am saddened by the loss of Wes. I have been exchanging emails with
Wes for awhile, as he was going to be building the 2N2/15 rig along with me.
He was a true gentleman and an asset to ham radio. I shall miss seeing
his enthuastic posts when another 2N2/40+ came on the air.
Dennis - WB0WAO
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.comI will miss Wes as well. Wes was always quick to offer me words of
encouragement and offer help and advise. I saw how excited Wes was
when he got his 2N2/40 working and was making contacts. Wes made
time to look for me when I was on looking for my first contacts and
I'm glad we got to talk to each other.
Several months ago Wes posted a message to the group offering some
extra turn indicators to members of the group. He gave one to me for
my first "Homebrew" rig. I've been working on getting my 2N2/40 in
the case and should complete the final touches today. It will be
proudly displaying the gift from Wes. I told Wes I would send him a
picture. I will post it to the group to see.
I am glad I got to know Wes. I will miss him.
Sincerely,
Tom Little
N0DSP
|
2057|2053|2002-04-14 10:42:24|Hans William Perl|Re: W3ERU -- SK|all -
It is sad news indeed that Wes Clopton, W3ERU, has
passed away. I met him here on this group, and had
several exchanges of e-mail with him on various
subjects on different occasions. In front of me now is
a little cardboard box with his handwriting on its top
containing some parts he sent me for the 2n2-40+ I
plan to build. A QSO with Wes with my 2n2-40+ from my
location on the north coast of the island of Puerto
Rico was a big challenge and one major goal. May Wes
rest in peace.
-HWP WP4GVW (ex KP4ABF)
San Juan, 1037 hours AST
14April02 (Sunday)
--- JD Delancy <
W1JD@drix.net> wrote:
> Many of you probably have exchange email or CW QSO's
> with W3ERU over the years. He
> was a very avid supporter of the 2n2-40 list and
> project. Wes got his 2n2-40 rig
> going maybe two months ago and was very excited
> about it, had 10-15 states worked
> with it..
>
> It's my sad duty to inform you that Wes is SK. He
> passed away last night (4/12) of
> an apparent heart attack about 1900 EDT.
>
> If you happen to be in the Southern Maryland area,
> here are the arrangements:
>
> - The viewing is Monday, Raymond Funeral Home on
> Washington Ave, LaPlata,
> 1700-2000 (5PM-8PM) hours
> - The Mass at Sacred Heart in LaPlata is Tuesday
> at 1000
>
> Wes will be missed by all
>
> jd
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/I as well only knew Wes through this group. And, as many of the other
posters have said so well, I
was also encouraged by Wes and will miss him greatly. I sincerely hope
that his family understands
how far his reach went.
So many times we don't consider how precious life is, until something
like this happens.
Right after I made my first QSO with my newly completed 2N2/40, he told
me to
"Get down off the roof before you fall.....". It's comments like this
that let you know that Wes
was a special person that will be missed dearly.
Best 72.
Jeff - K8GD
JD Delancy wrote:
> Many of you probably have exchange email or CW QSO's with W3ERU over
> the years. He
> was a very avid supporter of the 2n2-40 list and project. Wes got his
> 2n2-40 rig
> going maybe two months ago and was very excited about it, had 10-15
> states worked
> with it..
>
> It's my sad duty to inform you that Wes is SK. He passed away last
> night (4/12) of
> an apparent heart attack about 1900 EDT.
>
> If you happen to be in the Southern Maryland area, here are the
> arrangements:
>
> - The viewing is Monday, Raymond Funeral Home on Washington Ave,
> LaPlata,
> 1700-2000 (5PM-8PM) hours
> - The Mass at Sacred Heart in LaPlata is Tuesday at 1000
>
> Wes will be missed by all
>
> jd
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
[Click Here!]
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
I got the news of Wes', W3ERU, passing when I returned from WV this morning.
I met Wes thru the group as he finished up his 2N2-40 just before I finished
mine. He was so delighted to have accomplished this task. As several of
you know, Wes was afflicted with advanced stage Parkinson's Disease. He
described his problems with winding the toroids as if I had to "wind with
thick gloves and a jack hammer pounding..."
He was a great ham and always ready with a kind word for all building
2n2-40s.
Lee, KM4YY
Act that your principle of action might safely be made a law for the
whole world.
--Immanuel Kant
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] W3ERU -- SK
> I'm very saddened to hear this news. I only knew Wes through this list and
a
> few private emails. We QSO'ed once, but it was very short. He was always
> quick to help and a keen supporter of this group. You might notice that
the
> two emails prior to this one are from him. In fact, if you search back
> through the 2n2-40 archives you'll find many messages from Wes.
>
> For me personally, the most memorable message of this group came from Wes
> after the attacks on our country. The message is archived here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/message/381 - I urge people to read
it
> - I think Wes would consider this to be an important way to remember him.
>
> My condolences to his family and friends. He made this list a better place
> and I'm glad he joined us here.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: JD Delancy <W1JD@drix.net>
> > Organization: Every day of freedom is a good day thank a veteran ....
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:44:49 -0400
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [2n2-40] W3ERU -- SK
> >
> > Many of you probably have exchange email or CW QSO's with W3ERU over the
> > years. He
> > was a very avid supporter of the 2n2-40 list and project. Wes got his
2n2-40
> > rig
> > going maybe two months ago and was very excited about it, had 10-15
states
> > worked
> > with it..
> >
> > It's my sad duty to inform you that Wes is SK. He passed away last
night
> > (4/12) of
> > an apparent heart attack about 1900 EDT.
> >
> > If you happen to be in the Southern Maryland area, here are the
arrangements:
> >
> > - The viewing is Monday, Raymond Funeral Home on Washington Ave,
LaPlata,
> > 1700-2000 (5PM-8PM) hours
> > - The Mass at Sacred Heart in LaPlata is Tuesday at 1000
> >
> > Wes will be missed by all
> >
> > jd
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Lee (et al)
Wes contracted parkinsons at an early age, something like 23, when he was in the
Navy. Navy couldn't figure out what it was and took them a while to get it
diagnosed. He was medically retired in 65. From the Navy he went to work for
Bendix Corp and whatever they became after that. Was worked at Blossom Point here
in SMD somewhere arounds 30 years until the parkinson's got too bad. He didn't want
to stop working there, he was the senior RF engineer and loved his job. That was
probably 3-4 years ago. When I first met Wes in 1986, you could hardly tell he had
parkinsons. I've watched over the years the decline in motor skills and body
control as parkinsons took over. In the last 6-10 months he lost feelings in his
fingers and other extremities to the point that he could burn himself and not
know it. He went from being able to walk with a cane to confined to a wheelchair.
I could watch him take his medicine on the hour and at 15-20 after the hour it had
already worn off.
I feel like I've lost a brother.
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> I got the news of Wes', W3ERU, passing when I returned from WV this morning.
> I met Wes thru the group as he finished up his 2N2-40 just before I finished
> mine. He was so delighted to have accomplished this task. As several of
> you know, Wes was afflicted with advanced stage Parkinson's Disease. He
> described his problems with winding the toroids as if I had to "wind with
> thick gloves and a jack hammer pounding..."
> He was a great ham and always ready with a kind word for all building
> 2n2-40s.
> Lee, KM4YY
>
> Act that your principle of action might safely be made a law for the
> whole world.
> --Immanuel Kant
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 10:56 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] W3ERU -- SK
>
> > I'm very saddened to hear this news. I only knew Wes through this list and
> a
> > few private emails. We QSO'ed once, but it was very short. He was always
> > quick to help and a keen supporter of this group. You might notice that
> the
> > two emails prior to this one are from him. In fact, if you search back
> > through the 2n2-40 archives you'll find many messages from Wes.
> >
> > For me personally, the most memorable message of this group came from Wes
> > after the attacks on our country. The message is archived here:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/message/381 - I urge people to read
> it
> > - I think Wes would consider this to be an important way to remember him.
> >
> > My condolences to his family and friends. He made this list a better place
> > and I'm glad he joined us here.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > John, N1QO
> >
> > > From: JD Delancy <W1JD@drix.net>
> > > Organization: Every day of freedom is a good day thank a veteran ....
> > > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > > Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:44:49 -0400
> > > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [2n2-40] W3ERU -- SK
> > >
> > > Many of you probably have exchange email or CW QSO's with W3ERU over the
> > > years. He
> > > was a very avid supporter of the 2n2-40 list and project. Wes got his
> 2n2-40
> > > rig
> > > going maybe two months ago and was very excited about it, had 10-15
> states
> > > worked
> > > with it..
> > >
> > > It's my sad duty to inform you that Wes is SK. He passed away last
> night
> > > (4/12) of
> > > an apparent heart attack about 1900 EDT.
> > >
> > > If you happen to be in the Southern Maryland area, here are the
> arrangements:
> > >
> > > - The viewing is Monday, Raymond Funeral Home on Washington Ave,
> LaPlata,
> > > 1700-2000 (5PM-8PM) hours
> > > - The Mass at Sacred Heart in LaPlata is Tuesday at 1000
> > >
> > > Wes will be missed by all
> > >
> > > jd
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
p.s., W3ERU's obit showed up in this morning's Washington Post:
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A44816-2002Apr13.html JD Delancy wrote:
>
> Lee (et al)
>
> Wes contracted parkinsons at an early age, something like 23, when he was in the
> Navy. Navy couldn't figure out what it was and took them a while to get it
> diagnosed. He was medically retired in 65. From the Navy he went to work for
> Bendix Corp and whatever they became after that. Was worked at Blossom Point here
> in SMD somewhere arounds 30 years until the parkinson's got too bad. He didn't want
> to stop working there, he was the senior RF engineer and loved his job. That was
> probably 3-4 years ago. When I first met Wes in 1986, you could hardly tell he had
> parkinsons. I've watched over the years the decline in motor skills and body
> control as parkinsons took over. In the last 6-10 months he lost feelings in his
> fingers and other extremities to the point that he could burn himself and not
> know it. He went from being able to walk with a cane to confined to a wheelchair.
> I could watch him take his medicine on the hour and at 15-20 after the hour it had
> already worn off.
>
> I feel like I've lost a brother.
>
> Lee Mairs wrote:
> >
> > I got the news of Wes', W3ERU, passing when I returned from WV this morning.
> > I met Wes thru the group as he finished up his 2N2-40 just before I finished
> > mine. He was so delighted to have accomplished this task. As several of
> > you know, Wes was afflicted with advanced stage Parkinson's Disease. He
> > described his problems with winding the toroids as if I had to "wind with
> > thick gloves and a jack hammer pounding..."
> > He was a great ham and always ready with a kind word for all building
> > 2n2-40s.
> > Lee, KM4YY
> >
> > Act that your principle of action might safely be made a law for the
> > whole world.
> > --Immanuel Kant
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 10:56 PM
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] W3ERU -- SK
> >
> > > I'm very saddened to hear this news. I only knew Wes through this list and
> > a
> > > few private emails. We QSO'ed once, but it was very short. He was always
> > > quick to help and a keen supporter of this group. You might notice that
> > the
> > > two emails prior to this one are from him. In fact, if you search back
> > > through the 2n2-40 archives you'll find many messages from Wes.
> > >
> > > For me personally, the most memorable message of this group came from Wes
> > > after the attacks on our country. The message is archived here:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/message/381 - I urge people to read
> > it
> > > - I think Wes would consider this to be an important way to remember him.
> > >
> > > My condolences to his family and friends. He made this list a better place
> > > and I'm glad he joined us here.
> > >
> > > 73,
> > >
> > > John, N1QO
> > >
> > > > From: JD Delancy <W1JD@drix.net>
> > > > Organization: Every day of freedom is a good day thank a veteran ....
> > > > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:44:49 -0400
> > > > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Subject: [2n2-40] W3ERU -- SK
> > > >
> > > > Many of you probably have exchange email or CW QSO's with W3ERU over the
> > > > years. He
> > > > was a very avid supporter of the 2n2-40 list and project. Wes got his
> > 2n2-40
> > > > rig
> > > > going maybe two months ago and was very excited about it, had 10-15
> > states
> > > > worked
> > > > with it..
> > > >
> > > > It's my sad duty to inform you that Wes is SK. He passed away last
> > night
> > > > (4/12) of
> > > > an apparent heart attack about 1900 EDT.
> > > >
> > > > If you happen to be in the Southern Maryland area, here are the
> > arrangements:
> > > >
> > > > - The viewing is Monday, Raymond Funeral Home on Washington Ave,
> > LaPlata,
> > > > 1700-2000 (5PM-8PM) hours
> > > > - The Mass at Sacred Heart in LaPlata is Tuesday at 1000
> > > >
> > > > Wes will be missed by all
> > > >
> > > > jd
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
JD,
Thanks for that information about Wes, much appreciated. As I mentioned, I
only corresponded with him through email, we never met face-to-face. I could
tell he was the sort of guy I would enjoy spending time with had we been
geographically closer.
I wish I never lost anyone I cared for yet I have - it's a part of living
I'll never get used to or good at. I'm sorry for your loss and sorry we
don't have Wes in our group anymore, he is already missed.
Take care es 73,
John, N1QO
> From: JD Delancy <W1JD@drix.net>
> Organization: Every day of freedom is a good day thank a veteran ....
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 22:03:26 -0400
> To: lmairs@cox.rr.com
> Cc: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] W3ERU -- SK
>
> Lee (et al)
>
> Wes contracted parkinsons at an early age, something like 23, when he was in
> the
> Navy. Navy couldn't figure out what it was and took them a while to get it
> diagnosed. He was medically retired in 65. From the Navy he went to work for
> Bendix Corp and whatever they became after that. Was worked at Blossom Point
> here
> in SMD somewhere arounds 30 years until the parkinson's got too bad. He
> didn't want
> to stop working there, he was the senior RF engineer and loved his job. That
> was
> probably 3-4 years ago. When I first met Wes in 1986, you could hardly tell
> he had
> parkinsons. I've watched over the years the decline in motor skills and body
> control as parkinsons took over. In the last 6-10 months he lost feelings in
> his
> fingers and other extremities to the point that he could burn himself
> and not
> know it. He went from being able to walk with a cane to confined to a
> wheelchair.
> I could watch him take his medicine on the hour and at 15-20 after the hour it
> had
> already worn off.
>
> I feel like I've lost a brother.
>
> Lee Mairs wrote:
>>
>> I got the news of Wes', W3ERU, passing when I returned from WV this morning.
>> I met Wes thru the group as he finished up his 2N2-40 just before I finished
>> mine. He was so delighted to have accomplished this task. As several of
>> you know, Wes was afflicted with advanced stage Parkinson's Disease. He
>> described his problems with winding the toroids as if I had to "wind with
>> thick gloves and a jack hammer pounding..."
>> He was a great ham and always ready with a kind word for all building
>> 2n2-40s.
>> Lee, KM4YY
>>
>> Act that your principle of action might safely be made a law for the
>> whole world.
>> --Immanuel Kant
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "John Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
>> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 10:56 PM
>> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] W3ERU -- SK
>>
>>> I'm very saddened to hear this news. I only knew Wes through this list and
>> a
>>> few private emails. We QSO'ed once, but it was very short. He was always
>>> quick to help and a keen supporter of this group. You might notice that
>> the
>>> two emails prior to this one are from him. In fact, if you search back
>>> through the 2n2-40 archives you'll find many messages from Wes.
>>>
>>> For me personally, the most memorable message of this group came from Wes
>>> after the attacks on our country. The message is archived here:
>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/message/381 - I urge people to read
>> it
>>> - I think Wes would consider this to be an important way to remember him.
>>>
>>> My condolences to his family and friends. He made this list a better place
>>> and I'm glad he joined us here.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>>
>>> John, N1QO
>>>
>>>> From: JD Delancy <W1JD@drix.net>
>>>> Organization: Every day of freedom is a good day thank a veteran ....
>>>> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>>>> Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:44:49 -0400
>>>> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>>>> Subject: [2n2-40] W3ERU -- SK
>>>>
>>>> Many of you probably have exchange email or CW QSO's with W3ERU over the
>>>> years. He
>>>> was a very avid supporter of the 2n2-40 list and project. Wes got his
>> 2n2-40
>>>> rig
>>>> going maybe two months ago and was very excited about it, had 10-15
>> states
>>>> worked
>>>> with it..
>>>>
>>>> It's my sad duty to inform you that Wes is SK. He passed away last
>> night
>>>> (4/12) of
>>>> an apparent heart attack about 1900 EDT.
>>>>
>>>> If you happen to be in the Southern Maryland area, here are the
>> arrangements:
>>>>
>>>> - The viewing is Monday, Raymond Funeral Home on Washington Ave,
>> LaPlata,
>>>> 1700-2000 (5PM-8PM) hours
>>>> - The Mass at Sacred Heart in LaPlata is Tuesday at 1000
>>>>
>>>> Wes will be missed by all
>>>>
>>>> jd
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Gang--
Like most of us I only corresponded with Wes via email, but he was a
quality individual. His daughter lives nearby, and in several emails Wes
mentioned to me he would like to have an eyeball qso sometime when
visiting her. I think for most of us he represented the kind of
enthusiasm and helpfulness that we hope all amateur ops share.
A week ago the mails brought an appeal for funds for the ARRL Education
program, and I've been mulling over some response. Given Wes'
contribution to my enjoyment of this 2N2-40 project and his
encouragement, I plan on making a small gift in memory of Wes. Maybe he
would enjoy seeing us share the hobby with an ever-larger circle.
73
Ken KG4FGC
|
2064|2064|2002-04-19 06:41:02|dek8gd|2N2/40 is in the enclousure|Hi gang,
I wanted to give an update. I got my newly born 2N2/40 into the
enclosure last night. Then, I proceded to have a 30 minute ragchew
with Darin, W3DCG in Atlanta.
All reports on this radio have been extremely favorable.
I'll post a time when I'll be on the air this week. I would love to
have a 2N2 - 2N2 qso!
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
|
2065|2064|2002-04-19 21:33:44|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N2/40 is in the enclousure|At 11:57 AM 4/17/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi gang,
>
>I wanted to give an update. I got my newly born 2N2/40 into the
>enclosure last night. Then, I proceded to have a 30 minute ragchew
>with Darin, W3DCG in Atlanta.
>
>All reports on this radio have been extremely favorable.
>
>I'll post a time when I'll be on the air this week. I would love to
>have a 2N2 - 2N2 qso!
>
>Best 72,
>
>Jeff - K8GD
How about Friday evening at either 7:00 or 9:00 local time. I
could be on for a 2N2-2N2 QSO. Other takers??
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> How about Friday evening at either 7:00 or 9:00 local time. I
> could be on for a 2N2-2N2 QSO. Other takers??
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Jeff,
Congrats on getting it in the enclosure. I got mine in the enclosure
last weekend. It's 7:35 PM Colorado time, I'll look around a little
now, then look again after dinner.
Will try to post a picture on Sunday!
My best to you all. I appreciate being a part of the group.
73
Tom Little
N0DSPJim,
Sorry. I didn't get to the email until very late. Also, I was busy
playing with the kids at 7:00 and
putting them to bed at 9:00 :)
How about this. I will be on the air at 10:00pm EDST tomorrow (Saturday,
May 20)?
I would love for you to hear it!
Thanks and 72.
Jeff - K8GD
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 11:57 AM 4/17/02 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Hi gang,
> >
> >I wanted to give an update. I got my newly born 2N2/40 into the
> >enclosure last night. Then, I proceded to have a 30 minute ragchew
> >with Darin, W3DCG in Atlanta.
> >
> >All reports on this radio have been extremely favorable.
> >
> >I'll post a time when I'll be on the air this week. I would love to
> >have a 2N2 - 2N2 qso!
> >
> >Best 72,
> >
> >Jeff - K8GD
>
> How about Friday evening at either 7:00 or 9:00 local time. I
> could be on for a 2N2-2N2 QSO. Other takers??
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
I mean April 20th...... It was late. 10pm .... 4/20/02. I'll be on
around 7.040.
72,
Jeff - K8GD
Jeff Hecht wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Sorry. I didn't get to the email until very late. Also, I was busy
> playing with the kids at 7:00 and
> putting them to bed at 9:00 :)
>
> How about this. I will be on the air at 10:00pm EDST tomorrow
> (Saturday,
> May 20)?
>
> I would love for you to hear it!
>
> Thanks and 72.
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
> "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
>
> > At 11:57 AM 4/17/02 +0000, you wrote:
> >
> > >Hi gang,
> > >
> > >I wanted to give an update. I got my newly born 2N2/40 into the
> > >enclosure last night. Then, I proceded to have a 30 minute ragchew
>
> > >with Darin, W3DCG in Atlanta.
> > >
> > >All reports on this radio have been extremely favorable.
> > >
> > >I'll post a time when I'll be on the air this week. I would love
> to
> > >have a 2N2 - 2N2 qso!
> > >
> > >Best 72,
> > >
> > >Jeff - K8GD
> >
> > How about Friday evening at either 7:00 or 9:00 local time. I
> > could be on for a 2N2-2N2 QSO. Other takers??
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
At 11:55 PM 4/19/02 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Sorry. I didn't get to the email until very late. Also, I was busy
>playing with the kids at 7:00 and
>putting them to bed at 9:00 :)
>
>How about this. I will be on the air at 10:00pm EDST tomorrow (Saturday,
>May 20)?
>
>I would love for you to hear it!
>
>Thanks and 72.
>
>Jeff - K8GD
Jeff,
I'll be listening at that time. Hope to hear you.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I'm going to try to be on the air at that time as well. Hope the band is
good.
We had some awesome Aurora here last night, but it killed the HF. This
morning we had a strong earthquake - but the bands were good. ;)
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 19:35:48 -0400
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/40 is in the enclousure
>
> At 11:55 PM 4/19/02 -0400, you wrote:
>
>> Jim,
>>
>> Sorry. I didn't get to the email until very late. Also, I was busy
>> playing with the kids at 7:00 and
>> putting them to bed at 9:00 :)
>>
>> How about this. I will be on the air at 10:00pm EDST tomorrow (Saturday,
>> May 20)?
>>
>> I would love for you to hear it!
>>
>> Thanks and 72.
>>
>> Jeff - K8GD
>
> Jeff,
>
> I'll be listening at that time. Hope to hear you.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Jeff, Jim, John and others!
I'm looking for you through all the contesters!! Wow, lots of
signals... but then my HOMEBREW 2N2/40+ hears almost everything
anyway!!! ;)
Hope to find you!!
73
Tom
N0DSP
2N2/40+ #31!!!!
|
2072|2064|2002-04-20 22:32:13|John Wagner|Re: 2N2/40 is in the enclousure|I was just on... will get back on the air 7.040-7.050...
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "n0dsp" <n0dsp@yahoo.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 02:20:13 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2/40 is in the enclousure
>
> Jeff, Jim, John and others!
>
> I'm looking for you through all the contesters!! Wow, lots of
> signals... but then my HOMEBREW 2N2/40+ hears almost everything
> anyway!!! ;)
>
> Hope to find you!!
>
> 73
>
> Tom
> N0DSP
>
> 2N2/40+ #31!!!!
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hi guys. I was on, but there were so many contesters, I didn't hear you
guys. Eventually, I went down
into the Extra part of the band and worked W9JJX. It was fairly quiet
down there.
Should we try again on Sunday? If the contest is still going on, we
could try 7.020 if everyone holds an Extra ticket.
72,
Jeff - K8GD
John Wagner wrote:
> I was just on... will get back on the air 7.040-7.050...
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "n0dsp" <n0dsp@yahoo.com>
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 02:20:13 -0000
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2/40 is in the enclousure
> >
> > Jeff, Jim, John and others!
> >
> > I'm looking for you through all the contesters!! Wow, lots of
> > signals... but then my HOMEBREW 2N2/40+ hears almost everything
> > anyway!!! ;)
> >
> > Hope to find you!!
> >
> > 73
> >
> > Tom
> > N0DSP
> >
> > 2N2/40+ #31!!!!
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
>
>
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Hi gang.
I finished the RIT yesterday with the 10K center detented pot from a
tracking control in a VCR. It works
great!
All I have to do is apply some lettering/lables to the front panel, and
it is done. I will post a pic when I
get it done.
Does anyone know who I should contact/send a SASE for a certificate? I
would really like to have one :)
Thanks, and best 72.
Jeff - K8GD
|
2075|2064|2002-04-21 09:25:10|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N2/40 is in the enclousure|At 02:20 AM 4/21/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Jeff, Jim, John and others!
>
>I'm looking for you through all the contesters!! Wow, lots of
>signals... but then my HOMEBREW 2N2/40+ hears almost everything
>anyway!!! ;)
>
>Hope to find you!!
>
>73
>
>Tom
>N0DSP
>
>2N2/40+ #31!!!!
Tom....I gave up. Too many contesters for deal with. What contest
was that anyway. Some huge signals. If they were QRP, I'm impressed.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim and group...
That was the Michigan QSO Party and the Ontario QSO Party. Worked
just a bit of it on SSB, but had to work last nite and the nite before
so did not make many Q's at all. I will be off Monday nite and will
try to get on somewhere around 9 EDT or so.
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
2077|2064|2002-04-21 10:26:52|Lee Mairs|Re: 2N2/40 is in the enclousure|I'll be on again tonight 7.040-7.050 at 2200 EDT. I always thought my 2N2
was as selective as needed, but last night was crazy with all the
contesters. What contest was it?
As a lark (and my deep addiction to kits) I ordered a W3NQN passive filter
Friday (pg 96, QST, May 2002). Looks like I found a use for it!
Lee
km4yy
When I was a boy I was told that anyone could become President.
I'm beginning to believe it.
-- Clarence Darrow
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2/40 is in the enclousure
> At 02:20 AM 4/21/02 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Jeff, Jim, John and others!
> >
> >I'm looking for you through all the contesters!! Wow, lots of
> >signals... but then my HOMEBREW 2N2/40+ hears almost everything
> >anyway!!! ;)
> >
> >Hope to find you!!
> >
> >73
> >
> >Tom
> >N0DSP
> >
> >2N2/40+ #31!!!!
>
> Tom....I gave up. Too many contesters for deal with. What contest
> was that anyway. Some huge signals. If they were QRP, I'm impressed.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Did anyone get a jpg from Wes of his 2n2/40 when it was finished? I know he took
the picture but don't know if he shared it. If you have a copy, can you send it to
me?
jd
|
2079|2053|2002-04-23 11:29:21|Lee Mairs|Re: W3ERU -- SK|JD -
If you can get your hands on his radio, I'd be more than happy to meet you
and take a few pictures with my digital camera.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Right now I'm having amnesia and deja-vu at the same time. I think I've
forgotten this before.
--Steven Wright
----- Original Message -----
From: "JD Delancy" <W1JD@drix.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 9:53 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] W3ERU -- SK
>
> Did anyone get a jpg from Wes of his 2n2/40 when it was finished? I know
he took
> the picture but don't know if he shared it. If you have a copy, can you
send it to
> me?
>
> jd
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hi all.
I've been reading the List on and off since it started, but a number
of things opposed active participation thru the course so far (mostly
the 1100 sq. ft. house addition I am working on!).
However, we've moved in and it looks as if I can get some time now.
I do have a number of parts on hand given what I can get locally and
some I fortunately was able to get in the initial group buys last
Fall. Which is great.
However, I am contemplating getting a local group of hams to do this
project here - hopefully as a bit of a social/helper/elmer group for
those who want or need that, but also just to get some action amongst
us the the Toronto region stimulated with some soldering. I am
showing off some basic Manhattan stuff this weekend on my vendors
table at a big local hamfest and will have some photos, off-prints,
the QRPp issue etc. to perhaps engender interest.
If we do it I will want to get parts. For those of you who did order
in stuff individually or to buy for the group-at-large, I would
appreciate an email listing sources/and the parts sourced. I know the
list is bookmarked at the Yahoo group site, but 'who does what'?
Particularly the MV1662 diodes and other odd things (MV209 as well).
Toroids I see at a few places (Amidon Associates, Bytemark, Palomar)
so it will be cost/shipping cost as decisions where choice exists, as
well as how well they 'treat' Canadian orders. The group buy idea
locally is also in aid of distributing the somewhat higher import
mailing costs to Toronto, as well as local taxes applied to imported
orders, across the collective.
Whether assembling a full kit is viable or not I can only determine
once I have a fairly complete buying list (and Mouser wants $100+
order to send to Canada now, so anything under that I have to get
creative via a USA contact somehow!) from sources that have 800 phone
number or email ability.
Thanks. Hopefully there will be a degree of interest up here in the
area and I can find the sources sufficient to supply those indicating
interest a good estimate on total cost of a fully supplied 'kit'.
I have corresponded with someone else who also had some interest in
doing a kit and offering it up if there still existed interest now
that the Yahoo group has been going for some time and rigs completed
as examples of 'it can be done', so we'll see what happens.
Thanks for any information you can give me on active sources.
Brien Pepperdine
VE3VAW
Toronto
|
2081|2053|2002-04-23 20:17:43|JD Delancy|Re: W3ERU -- SK|Thanks for the offer, see what I can arrange..
Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> JD -
> If you can get your hands on his radio, I'd be more than happy to meet you
> and take a few pictures with my digital camera.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
> Right now I'm having amnesia and deja-vu at the same time. I think I've
> forgotten this before.
> --Steven Wright
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "JD Delancy" <W1JD@drix.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 9:53 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] W3ERU -- SK
>
> >
> > Did anyone get a jpg from Wes of his 2n2/40 when it was finished? I know
> he took
> > the picture but don't know if he shared it. If you have a copy, can you
> send it to
> > me?
> >
> > jd
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Brien,
I got the majority of my parts from Dan's Small Part's and Kits.
http://www.fix.net/~jparker/dans.html I don't know whether he ships to Canada, or not, but it would
certainly be worth a phone call to him. He has most everything you
need for the 2N2/40, and his service was very good.
Hope this helps.
72.
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "brienpepperdine" wrote:
> Hi all.
> I've been reading the List on and off since it started, but a number
> of things opposed active participation thru the course so far
(mostly
> the 1100 sq. ft. house addition I am working on!).
> However, we've moved in and it looks as if I can get some time now.
>
> I do have a number of parts on hand given what I can get locally and
> some I fortunately was able to get in the initial group buys last
> Fall. Which is great.
>
> However, I am contemplating getting a local group of hams to do this
> project here - hopefully as a bit of a social/helper/elmer group for
> those who want or need that, but also just to get some action
amongst
> us the the Toronto region stimulated with some soldering. I am
> showing off some basic Manhattan stuff this weekend on my vendors
> table at a big local hamfest and will have some photos, off-prints,
> the QRPp issue etc. to perhaps engender interest.
>
> If we do it I will want to get parts. For those of you who did order
> in stuff individually or to buy for the group-at-large, I would
> appreciate an email listing sources/and the parts sourced. I know
the
> list is bookmarked at the Yahoo group site, but 'who does what'?
> Particularly the MV1662 diodes and other odd things (MV209 as well).
> Toroids I see at a few places (Amidon Associates, Bytemark, Palomar)
> so it will be cost/shipping cost as decisions where choice exists,
as
> well as how well they 'treat' Canadian orders. The group buy idea
> locally is also in aid of distributing the somewhat higher import
> mailing costs to Toronto, as well as local taxes applied to imported
> orders, across the collective.
>
> Whether assembling a full kit is viable or not I can only determine
> once I have a fairly complete buying list (and Mouser wants $100+
> order to send to Canada now, so anything under that I have to get
> creative via a USA contact somehow!) from sources that have 800
phone
> number or email ability.
>
> Thanks. Hopefully there will be a degree of interest up here in the
> area and I can find the sources sufficient to supply those
indicating
> interest a good estimate on total cost of a fully supplied 'kit'.
> I have corresponded with someone else who also had some interest in
> doing a kit and offering it up if there still existed interest now
> that the Yahoo group has been going for some time and rigs completed
> as examples of 'it can be done', so we'll see what happens.
>
> Thanks for any information you can give me on active sources.
>
> Brien Pepperdine
> VE3VAW
> Toronto
Hi guys.
It's done! And it works very well! I never thought I would have so
much fun. After I put the kids to bed, it's down into the basement
and into the ham shack. I call CQ a few times... and another contact
goes in the log book for the 2N2/40+.
Anyway, I posted some new pictures of my completed rig. They are in
the K8GD folder.
I will have it with me at FDIM in less than a month, so I hope to see
several of you guys there.
Hope to QSO soon too!
Thanks and best 72!
Jeff - K8GD
|
2084|2084|2002-04-27 23:19:01|Brian Murrey|OT|Gang...I passed my Extra exam today.
73 de KB9BVN/AE
YAY!!
|
2085|2084|2002-04-28 00:17:35|Steve Smith|Re: OT|Yeah, buddy! Life is good!
73.......Steve Smith, WB6TNL
Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
On Sat, 27 Apr 2002 22:24:49 -0500 "Brian Murrey" <
brian@iquest.net>
writes:
> Gang...I passed my Extra exam today.
>
> 73 de KB9BVN/AE
>
> YAY!!
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.At 10:24 PM 4/27/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Gang...I passed my Extra exam today.
>
>73 de KB9BVN/AE
>
>YAY!!
Congrats Brian!! Nice to have that out of the way I'll bet.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Congrats Brian!
72,
Jeff - K8GD
Brian Murrey wrote:
> Gang...I passed my Extra exam today.
>
> 73 de KB9BVN/AE
>
> YAY!!
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Congrats, Brian! Isn't that a great feeling. I think the longer you wait
the greater the kick when you finally reach the goal. Took me 41 years
since I was a novice. I let out a very uncharacteristic YEEEHAH! when I
left the exam center back in Feb. '99.
Enjoy your accomplishment.
73
Arth w6ags
------------------original message---------------
Gang...I passed my Extra exam today.
73 de KB9BVN/AE
YAY!!
|
2090|2084|2002-04-28 21:06:52|Patrick York|Re: OT|Congratulations Brian!! I plan to take my Extra exam on May 18th. Wish me
luck.....I'll need it!
72, Pat KF4LMZ
Rock Hill, South Carolina
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Murrey" <brian@iquest.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2002 11:24 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] OT
> Gang...I passed my Extra exam today.
>
> 73 de KB9BVN/AE
>
> YAY!!
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Great. I am studying for mine. Hope to test in June.
Les N0PPF
|
2092|2033|2002-04-30 22:59:10|Hans William Perl|Re: ??new 2N7000 FET RIT by K8IQY|Jim,
On Thursday, 11 April 2002, at 0815 hours, you wrote:
> ...for those that are interested, I've got a
> version of the RIT that I am working on that uses a
> 2N7000 FET, and seems to work even better than the
> PN2222 version. Stay tuned for details.
>
I'm interested... what's happenin'?
73 -HW / WP4ABF (ex KP4ABF)
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
Hmmmnnn...
This sounds like a nice candidate for a new project. Are you willing to
post a schematic, Jim?
73 de Lee
km4yy
Overheard on the QRP-L list...
"Using properly designed feedback networks, they will easily go up
to 17 meters. I use a pair of MTP3055E MOSFETs in a small linear
amplifier that I designed and built for 40 and 17. I get about
12 watts out on 40 and about 10 on 17. The feedback circuits were
optimized for 17 meter operation. I believe the QRP Plus rig used
an IRF510 in the final up to 6 or 10 meters, but I suspect the power
output suffers terribly up that high.
72,
Jim, K8IQY"
|
2094|2093|2002-05-01 22:00:14|wb0wao@hotmail.com|Re: Biasing Mosfets...|I have some IRF 540's, would they work as well??
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
2095|2093|2002-05-01 22:41:10|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Biasing Mosfets...|At 10:00 PM 5/1/02 -0400, you wrote:
>I have some IRF 540's, would they work as well??
>
>Dennis - WB0WAO
In a word, yes!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
...and a schematic of the linear???
73 de Lee
km4yy
...each new generation born is in effect an invasion of civilization by
little
barbarians, who must be civilized before it is too late.
--Thomas Sowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2002 10:41 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Biasing Mosfets...
> At 10:00 PM 5/1/02 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >I have some IRF 540's, would they work as well??
> >
> >Dennis - WB0WAO
>
> In a word, yes!!
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
There was a (2 part I believe) article in QST some time back on a
MOSFET / IRF510 amp. This followed on the work from some previous
MOSFET amp articles in QST, including one by Doug DeMaw.
I know one person who was going to work up this IRF510 amp but I
think stopped his project when he found that an MRF450A was the
direct replacement for the thing he was trying to fix.
I can put the article references on later for anyone interested in
reading that info - and I have a copy of the QRP Plus rig's manual at
home so its schematic might reveal some hints on the amp it uses.
There was some talk about the IRF510 at the New Jersey Atlanticon
gathering - by Paul Harden I believe (hope I am correct), who also
had in his article in the compendium some info on matching impedances
etc. in stages thru rigs (ending with PA of course!). I can check
that out as well as to its pertinence.
Brien Pepperdine
VE3VAW
Toronto
|
2098|2093|2002-05-02 09:25:28|brienpepperdine|Re: Mosfet amps... QST articles on same|There was a (2 part I believe) article in QST some time back on a
MOSFET / IRF510 amp. This followed on the work from some previous
MOSFET amp articles in QST, including one by Doug DeMaw.
I know one person who was going to work up this IRF510 amp but I
think stopped his project when he found that an MRF450A was the
direct replacement for the thing he was trying to fix.
I can put the article references on later for anyone interested in
reading that info - and I have a copy of the QRP Plus rig's manual at
home so its schematic might reveal some hints on the amp it uses.
There was some talk about the IRF510 at the New Jersey Atlanticon
gathering - by Paul Harden I believe (hope I am correct), who also
had in his article in the compendium some info on matching impedances
etc. in stages thru rigs (ending with PA of course!). I can check
that out as well as to its pertinence.
Brien Pepperdine
VE3VAW
Toronto
|
2099|2093|2002-05-02 15:11:12|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Biasing Mosfets...|At 03:40 PM 5/1/02 -0400, you wrote:
>Hmmmnnn...
>This sounds like a nice candidate for a new project. Are you willing to
>post a schematic, Jim?
>73 de Lee
>km4yy
At some point when I can find the original for the linear. I think
it got lost when the first hard drive crashed a couple of years ago.
I may have to open it up to see exactly what I did. I also had a
complete SPICE model for that amp, but I think that is gone too.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....doing anything interesting with the 38S I loaned you??
At 05:43 PM 5/2/02 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim -
>Can you give us a few words why this RIT is preferred to the 2N2222 RIT? I
>hadn't noticed any problems, but then again I wasn't looking too hard!
>73 de Lee
>km4yy
Lee and others,
This version of the RIT eliminates a small, but real problem with
the older version. During transmit, the old version would also offset
the transmit frequency a small amount to a larger amount, depending
on how much receive offset was dialed in. This was due to the
collect to emitter saturation voltage level in the PN2222, an amount
of about 0.15 to 0.2 volts during transmit. This small voltage
gave rise to a corresponding offset in the transmit frequency too, of
up to 1/2 HKz or so in some setups.
By using a 2N7000 MOSFET, the drain to source saturation voltage is
reduced to about 0.02 volts, and hence the corresponding transmit offset
is reduced a corresponding amount. In the two units that I have built
and installed in a 2N2/40+ and a SW30++, the transmit offset was probably
less than 50 Hz at either receive offset limit, far better performance
than I was ever able to achieve with a PN2222 used as the switching
element.
I'm laying out a SMT PC board for the 2N7000 version, and also want to
do an Islander Pad cutter version for SMT parts. Those are low priority
projects, with cycling being numero uno. :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
On the new RIT schematic you posted it says Q1 is a
2N7002. Is that a typo? (I thought it was a 2N7000.)
Thanks for the new circuit and for your explanation of
why it's better - reproduced below.
73 -HW WP4GVW (ex KP4ABF)
- "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <
jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
> At 05:43 PM 5/2/02 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >Jim -
> >Can you give us a few words why this RIT is
> preferred to the 2N2222 RIT? I
> >hadn't noticed any problems, but then again I
> wasn't looking too hard!
> >73 de Lee
> >km4yy
>
> Lee and others,
>
> This version of the RIT eliminates a small, but real
> problem with
> the older version. During transmit, the old version
> would also offset
> the transmit frequency a small amount to a larger
> amount, depending
> on how much receive offset was dialed in. This was
> due to the
> collect to emitter saturation voltage level in the
> PN2222, an amount
> of about 0.15 to 0.2 volts during transmit. This
> small voltage
> gave rise to a corresponding offset in the transmit
> frequency too, of
> up to 1/2 HKz or so in some setups.
>
> By using a 2N7000 MOSFET, the drain to source
> saturation voltage is
> reduced to about 0.02 volts, and hence the
> corresponding transmit offset
> is reduced a corresponding amount. In the two units
> that I have built
> and installed in a 2N2/40+ and a SW30++, the
> transmit offset was probably
> less than 50 Hz at either receive offset limit, far
> better performance
> than I was ever able to achieve with a PN2222 used
> as the switching
> element.
>
> I'm laying out a SMT PC board for the 2N7000
> version, and also want to
> do an Islander Pad cutter version for SMT parts.
> Those are low priority
> projects, with cycling being numero uno. :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
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>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.comHans and group...
Unless I am mistaken, the 2N7000 in a SMT package is a NDS7002A (Fairchild part number) - at least I hope so, as i have a few of these here.
May have to build one of these up :-)
72 es GUD Building!
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
2105|90|2002-05-03 18:02:57|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N7000 MOSFET RIT Info|At 07:43 PM 5/2/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>On the new RIT schematic you posted it says Q1 is a
>2N7002. Is that a typo? (I thought it was a 2N7000.)
Yes, 2N7002 is a typo. I've updated the schematic on
Yahoo, and it is now correct. Thanks for catching that
Hans.
>Thanks for the new circuit and for your explanation of
>why it's better - reproduced below.
You bet. Try the new circuit, you'll like it!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi guys.
I upgraded the RIT in my 2N2/40+ with the new 2N7000 design. It makes
a very substantial difference. Before with the 2N2222, I would get a
slight change in the transmitt frequency. Now, with the 2N7000, when
I listen on the "big rig", I can detect no change in frequency.
The changes are so minor, that it is really worth doing.
Thanks for the update Jim!
Also, Bob - WB8CAC, recorded a short portion of our QSO the other
night and emailed it to me. I wasn't expecting that. That is the
first time I have ever heard myself. Anyway, if anyone would like to
hear it, just let me know and I'll email you the .wav file (~325K).
The rig that night sounded a bit "yoopy". I think my battery was
getting low.
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
|
2107|2107|2002-05-04 08:51:11|Hans William Perl|J176 source?|Hi all,
I've just checked Mouser, where, of three options, the
smallest minimum order for the J176 FET P-channel
switch is 500 units (at $0.375 each).
Question: Where to get *one* or *two* J176 devices?
It seems to me I've seen the question here on the
group before, but I don't recall seeing the answer.
73 -HW WP4GVW (ex KP4ABF)
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.comAt 05:51 AM 5/4/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I've just checked Mouser, where, of three options, the
>smallest minimum order for the J176 FET P-channel
>switch is 500 units (at $0.375 each).
>
>Question: Where to get *one* or *two* J176 devices?
Jameco, their part number 140142 at $0.59 each or $0.55 each
in quantities of 10. Their number: 1-800-831-4242. Lots of
other good stuff there too, including leaded and SMT parts.
Best source I've found for 5-50pF trimmers, but they will
eventually run out.
On the web at www.jameco.com too.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 06:30 PM 5/4/02 -0600, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Do you have the part number for the 5-50 trim caps from Jameco? If it is
>a part that is likely to disappear, I might order a few. Wanted to be
>sure I got the right ones.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Tom Little
>N0DSP
Hi Tom,
Well I see they have upped the price considerably. Now $0.59 each
in quantity of 100. They were selling them at less then $0.25 each
a while ago. It is their part number 136979.
Sorry they raised the price!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>
>----------
>Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
Does anyone know why it might be that when I try to access the
current schematics in the Files section I get a "files not on the
server" type of error message?
This is, of course, a somewhat rhetorical question as I don't really
expect anyone to be able to explain Yahoo-based weirdness.
72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJ
|
2111|2110|2002-05-07 12:00:09|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Files not found?|At 02:48 PM 5/7/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Does anyone know why it might be that when I try to access the
>current schematics in the Files section I get a "files not on the
>server" type of error message?
Don't know Dave. I was just there, and all of the .PDF schematic
files seem to be there, although I didn't try to retrieve one.
>This is, of course, a somewhat rhetorical question as I don't really
>expect anyone to be able to explain Yahoo-based weirdness.
That's for sure..........
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I had the same trouble when I used the links from the group page. When I typed in the URL, I was able to access it. ! The status bar at the bottom of the browser will show you the URL if you hover the mouse over the link.
Good luck
>>> jokortge@prodigy.net 05/07/02 11:59AM >>>
At 02:48 PM 5/7/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Does anyone know why it might be that when I try to access the
>current schematics in the Files section I get a "files not on the
>server" type of error message?
Don't know Dave. I was just there, and all of the .PDF schematic
files seem to be there, although I didn't try to retrieve one.
>This is, of course, a somewhat rhetorical question as I don't really
>expect anyone to be able to explain Yahoo-based weirdness.
That's for sure..........
72,
Jim, K8IQY
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ok you guys. It takes me 15 minutes to wind the toriod and 2 hours to get the insulation off. Where do I purchase some appropriate wire that the insulation will come off with the heat of the soldering iron. I've built 2 K2's with no problems but the wire I have is getting the 2n2-40 done. Thanks for the info in advance.
Dave Pomeroy K7DNP Eastern Washington
|
2114|22|2002-05-07 23:14:20|Lee Mairs|Re: Toroids|Dave -
What worked for me was using a scalpel/hobby knife and scraping off the
insulation. It only took about 4-5 swipes per lead to get enough bare
copper showing so that I was confident that it would be held with solder.
Of course, attaching each lead to the correct spot was another thing
[:>( ]...
73 de Lee, KM4YY
... Had this been an actual emergency, we would have fled in terror,
and you would not have been informed.
----- Original Message -----
From: "dave_pomeroy" <dave@dpomeroy.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 10:13 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Toroids
> Ok you guys. It takes me 15 minutes to wind the toriod and 2 hours to get
the insulation off. Where do I purchase some appropriate wire that the
insulation will come off with the heat of the soldering iron. I've built 2
K2's with no problems but the wire I have is getting the 2n2-40 done.
Thanks for the info in advance.
> Dave Pomeroy K7DNP Eastern Washington
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Dave,
Go to your local "Dollar Store" and pick up a couple of packs of emory
boards - the kind that your XYL uses to sharpen her claws
. These
work great for taking the enamel off without nicking the wire and it gives
the added benefit of "roughing up" the wire so that it will solder a bit
better, IMHO. Also while you are there, pick up a couple of bottles of
really bright colored nail polish - use that to color code the wires in a
bifilar or trifilar toroid. They usually have some pretty wild and bright
colors there for sale. The wire I use is red, so I got a bottle of really
bright blue and green. Makes it MUCH easier to hook the correct leads up!
72
Dennis
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.comCan any of you folks recommend a spice beginners book? thanks for your time.
|
2117|2110|2002-05-08 15:29:31|John Wagner|Re: Files not found?|I just tried it and it worked. Don't know what the problem might have been
before.
Try it again Dave - if it doesn't work email me direct and tell me the files
you need and I'll email them back to you.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "ad2a_nj" <dmaliniak@penton.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 14:48:53 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Files not found?
>
> Does anyone know why it might be that when I try to access the
> current schematics in the Files section I get a "files not on the
> server" type of error message?
>
> This is, of course, a somewhat rhetorical question as I don't really
> expect anyone to be able to explain Yahoo-based weirdness.
>
> 72,
> David, AD2A
> Glen Rock, NJ
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 07:21 PM 5/8/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Can any of you folks recommend a spice beginners book? thanks for your time.
SPICE by Roberts and Sedra is a good book, with lots of worked
problems. Published by Oxford University Press.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Anyone compile a parts list with vendor part numbers?
Ron - N1ZSW
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.comBeen away from the project for quite awhile...I've been mostly
concentrating on antennas so I could get my other rigs on the air
sometimes...now I'd like to get this one done in time for Field Day
if possible.
I think I'll change the diodes in all the mixers to 1N5711's -
Schottky's are supposed to perform better, right?
Finally got a general coverage RX...I knew the VFO was working, but
it was nice to be able to hear it and adjust it to the proper range.
Now to go through all the other checks that required a General
Coverage Receiver, and then get that iron hot again!
Del, AD6WE
|
2121|2120|2002-05-12 07:59:54|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: I'm Back (again)|At 11:17 PM 5/10/02 +0000, Del, AD6WE wrote:
>Been away from the project for quite awhile...I've been mostly
>concentrating on antennas so I could get my other rigs on the air
>sometimes...now I'd like to get this one done in time for Field Day
>if possible.
>
>I think I'll change the diodes in all the mixers to 1N5711's -
>Schottky's are supposed to perform better, right?
Not those kind of Schottky diodes. The kind that are used in
mixers are low current devices with very low internal capacitances
and designed for VHF service. The 1N5711 devices are for power
rectification, with low forward drop. Not the same animal.
>Finally got a general coverage RX...I knew the VFO was working, but
>it was nice to be able to hear it and adjust it to the proper range.
Yes, a GC receiver is a real benefit when building another piece
of gear with frequency control circuits inside.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
> >Schottky's are supposed to perform better, right?
>
> Not those kind of Schottky diodes. ........
Ooops...okay, I didn't realize that it made a difference. The ones I got
were a good price from RadioShack.com...now what am I going to do with
them...and where can I find the right ones for less than 2 or 3 bucks
apiece?
Del, AD6WE
Just curious if anyone here is going to FDIM this week, and if so, are
you bringing your 2N2/40? I am a newbie to QRPARCI, so I hope I fit
in ok (I just joined). Anyway, what night(s) is/are the best ones to
attend. I want to show off my 2N2/40.... after all, it's the only
radio I have built :)
Thanks, and best 72.
Jeff
|
2124|2123|2002-05-13 13:28:14|Brian Murrey|Re: Anyone going to FDIM?|I, for one, will be there.
The Homebrew contest night is Friday.
----- Original Message -----
From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 12:25 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Anyone going to FDIM?
> Just curious if anyone here is going to FDIM this week, and if so,
are
> you bringing your 2N2/40? I am a newbie to QRPARCI, so I hope I fit
> in ok (I just joined). Anyway, what night(s) is/are the best ones
to
> attend. I want to show off my 2N2/40.... after all, it's the only
> radio I have built :)
>
> Thanks, and best 72.
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
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Jim...
I found a place closeby with the following part number and
description that looks interesting...comment?
MMBD301LT1
DIODE, SCHOTTKY, 30V, 1.5pF @ 15V, SOT23 - DC:96 -MOT
45 cents each, and they have 357 in stock.
Del, AD6WE
|
2126|2125|2002-05-13 15:52:23|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: schottky diodes|At 06:58 PM 5/13/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim...
>
>I found a place closeby with the following part number and
>description that looks interesting...comment?
>
>MMBD301LT1
>
>DIODE, SCHOTTKY, 30V, 1.5pF @ 15V, SOT23 - DC:96 -MOT
>
>45 cents each, and they have 357 in stock.
>
>Del, AD6WE
Del,
That one is a keeper. Designed for mixer service and applications
like that. Price is fine too, actually quite reasonable I think.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I don't think you will need all 357 of them. Tell the rest of us the
source. I would like to have a dozen or so in my junk box.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
A liberal is a person whose interests aren't at stake, at the moment.
--Willis Player
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] schottky diodes
> At 06:58 PM 5/13/02 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Jim...
> >
> >I found a place closeby with the following part number and
> >description that looks interesting...comment?
> >
> >MMBD301LT1
> >
> >DIODE, SCHOTTKY, 30V, 1.5pF @ 15V, SOT23 - DC:96 -MOT
> >
> >45 cents each, and they have 357 in stock.
> >
> >Del, AD6WE
>
> Del,
>
> That one is a keeper. Designed for mixer service and applications
> like that. Price is fine too, actually quite reasonable I think.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Gang,
I'll be there with my 2n2-40, anyone else?
Kevin, KC8SFJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 1:25 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Anyone going to FDIM?
> Just curious if anyone here is going to FDIM this week, and if so, are
> you bringing your 2N2/40? I am a newbie to QRPARCI, so I hope I fit
> in ok (I just joined). Anyway, what night(s) is/are the best ones to
> attend. I want to show off my 2N2/40.... after all, it's the only
> radio I have built :)
>
> Thanks, and best 72.
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> Buy Stock for $4
> and no minimums.
> FREE Money 2002.
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>
At 07:58 PM 5/13/02 -0400, you wrote:
>Gang,
>I'll be there with my 2n2-40, anyone else?
>
>Kevin, KC8SFJ
You all know that I will be there with one or two 2N2/40 rigs.
Also going to bring my Manhattan-style SW30++, and the Iowa QRP-10.
Anything else anybody wants to see??
72 and see you all at Dayton,
Jim, K8IQY
I hope all you guys get together for a picture with all your
radios...I'm sorry mine isn't finished, and I won't be able to make
it, either.
Did anyone get a photo of Wes Clopton's rig? Hope it gets a chance
to live on somewhere in his honor...
I looked through my emails hoping that I might find a personal one
from him but no...
Del, AD6WE
|
2131|2131|2002-05-13 21:10:05|ad6we_del|Diode Group Buy?|Anyone interested in some Schottky Diodes?
Check my previous posts and the replies from Jim K. for
details...I'll put together 20 for 10 bucks and an S.A.S.E....
At that number, the place has enough for me and about 16 others.
I'll figure out how much postage it will take when I see how many are
interested.
Del, AD6WE
|
2132|2132|2002-05-13 21:12:13|ad6we_del|More on the diodes|Just wanted to make clear...the diodes are SMT (SOT 23 Package) I
can include a datasheet with the order.
Del, AD6WE
|
2133|2131|2002-05-15 09:49:59|Ron Pfeiffer|Re: Diode Group Buy?|Put me down for the diodes and let me know when to send you the money.
Ron - N1ZSW
>From: "ad6we_del" <AD6WE@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2n2-40] Diode Group Buy?
>Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 01:10:04 -0000
>
>Anyone interested in some Schottky Diodes?
>
>Check my previous posts and the replies from Jim K. for
>details...I'll put together 20 for 10 bucks and an S.A.S.E....
>
>At that number, the place has enough for me and about 16 others.
>I'll figure out how much postage it will take when I see how many are
>interested.
>
>Del, AD6WE
>
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.comDoes anybody know if Zetex ZTX650 TO-92 switching transistors can be
used in place of 2n2222A's in the transmitter final amp and/or the
audio power transistors. They are cheaply available on eBay and
specs are 1W dissipation, up to 2 amps continuous and can stand up to
6A temporary pulse current, typical 175 Mhz Ft or possible even
higher,adequate gain, comparable to 2N2222 variety.
|
2136|2136|2002-05-15 16:03:54|ad6we_del|Diodes are Ready!|Okay, I have the diodes ready...here's the deal:
If they are used in all of the mixers in the 2N2/40 it will take
twelve. "Probably overkill for the product detector and the SBM in
the Tx section, but really good for the main DBM in the front-end of
the receiver." (Quote from Jim K.)
I would like to make sure anyone in the group who wants can have at
least twelve, plus a few extras "just in case."
So...
Send me a self-addressed envelope (no postage - I can walk to the
P.O.) and $8.45 for sixteen diodes. That's 50 cents each plus 45
cents for postage. If you want fewer than 16, just send 50 cents
each plus the 45 cents postage...it won't be any different no matter
how many you want. Anyone overseas I'll try to take care of with
PayPal or something...
Remember, these are SMT parts - SOT-23 package...really tiny. With
reasonable care, I don't expect any trouble using them Manhattan
Style. I was going to include the datasheet, but you can see it at
this address:
http://onsemi.com.cn/pub/Collateral/DataSheet/mbd301rev0d.pdf PLEASE...
I don't expect to run out...only a few have indicated interest so
far...but email me first before you send the order...I would hate to
have to send it back.
I think that covers everything - any questions just ask.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
2111 Cheyenne Way Unit 9
Fullerton, CA 92833
I've read up a bit on diode ring mixers, but I'm still unclear on what I'm
looking for to find a suitable substitute for the 1n4148's.
I've got some MMBD352LT1's. The spec sheet for these says they have 1pF @
0v, Vr (Voltage reverse rating) of 7v. The forward drop on these is about .4
to .45 (varies from piece to piece but is the same for each diode in the
package).
Are these OK?
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 15:52:12 -0400
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] schottky diodes
>
> At 06:58 PM 5/13/02 +0000, you wrote:
>
>> Jim...
>>
>> I found a place closeby with the following part number and
>> description that looks interesting...comment?
>>
>> MMBD301LT1
>>
>> DIODE, SCHOTTKY, 30V, 1.5pF @ 15V, SOT23 - DC:96 -MOT
>>
>> 45 cents each, and they have 357 in stock.
>>
>> Del, AD6WE
>
> Del,
>
> That one is a keeper. Designed for mixer service and applications
> like that. Price is fine too, actually quite reasonable I think.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
John, those look better than mine, but I'm no expert. Also, I looked
up the spec. sheet online and it looks like yours are "dual" diodes -
two per package.
Del, AD6WE
|
2139|2125|2002-05-15 19:26:50|John Wagner|Re: schottky diodes|Yeah, that's why I like 'em! Within each package the forward drop is
identical between each diode. However from piece to the piece the forward
drop varied pretty widely - took me a number of tests to find a match set.
I'm just unclear as to what I'm looking for as far as specs goes for a diode
ring mixer. I'm wondering if the forward voltage drop being less is an issue
(I've been told that's a good thing, but I'm unclear as to why).
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "ad6we_del" <AD6WE@hotmail.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 23:21:36 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: schottky diodes
>
>
> John, those look better than mine, but I'm no expert. Also, I looked
> up the spec. sheet online and it looks like yours are "dual" diodes -
> two per package.
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner
wrote:
> Yeah, that's why I like 'em! Within each package the forward drop is
> identical between each diode. However from piece to the piece the
forward
> drop varied pretty widely - took me a number of tests to find a
match set.
>
> I'm just unclear as to what I'm looking for as far as specs goes
for a diode
> ring mixer. I'm wondering if the forward voltage drop being less is
an issue
> (I've been told that's a good thing, but I'm unclear as to why).
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
I think you are correct. I don't know why either...I did read that
voltage drop equals loss of signal, so that may be part of the
answer. But there must be more because the diodes that Jim K said
weren't for mixers also had lower forward voltage drop. Low
capacitance is an issue as well.
Del, AD6WEHi Gang.
Thought the group would like to see a picture from FDIM. I added
an FDIM folder and put it in there. There were a total of 6 2N2/40's
there with their builders. This was taken Friday night, and since I
live only minutes away from the hotel, I was obligated to post it as
soon as I got home.
I'm sure more pictures will follow.
Best 72 to all!
Jeff - K8GD
|
2142|2141|2002-05-18 08:56:03|John Wagner|Re: Photo From FDIM|NO FAIR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Man, I wish I could have been there.
Please keep the pics coming.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 03:56:10 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Photo From FDIM
>
> Hi Gang.
>
> Thought the group would like to see a picture from FDIM. I added
> an FDIM folder and put it in there. There were a total of 6 2N2/40's
> there with their builders. This was taken Friday night, and since I
> live only minutes away from the hotel, I was obligated to post it as
> soon as I got home.
>
> I'm sure more pictures will follow.
>
> Best 72 to all!
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
This evening at FDIM, Jim was inducted into the QRP Hall of Fame.
Jim, thanks so much for all the contributions you have made to this
hobby of QRP building. We're very lucky to have you in our midst.
73 de KB9BVN And all the Flying Pigs!
|
2144|2144|2002-05-19 00:57:23|Dennis Ponsness|Way To Go Jim!!!!|Jim,
Congratulations on your induction tonight into the QRP Hall of Fame. I
cannot think of anyone more deserving of such an honor. You are a great
asset to the QRP community and to ham radio as well. Well done!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.comJim,
My heartiest congratulations to you on the occasion of
your induction to the QRP Hall of Fame, evening of
Saturday, 18 May 2002. It is an honor for me to have
corresponded with you over these past few months as a
participant in your 2n2-40 build group, and to benefit
from your accumulated wisdom in electronics and
beyond. Well done!
72
HW WP4GVW (ex KP4ABF)
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.comHey! I feel great about this. He was the first person I ever nominated for something that actually won it. FB Jim. You truly deserve the honor.
73 de Lee
km4yy
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Ponsness
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 12:57 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Way To Go Jim!!!!
Jim,
Congratulations on your induction tonight into the QRP Hall of Fame. I
cannot think of anyone more deserving of such an honor. You are a great
asset to the QRP community and to ham radio as well. Well done!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
This is great to hear.
Many congrats to Jim, K8IQY for this well deserved acknowledgement and
recognition.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Brian Murrey" <brian@iquest.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 23:47:08 -0500
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [2n2-40] Congrats are in Order
>
> This evening at FDIM, Jim was inducted into the QRP Hall of Fame.
>
> Jim, thanks so much for all the contributions you have made to this
> hobby of QRP building. We're very lucky to have you in our midst.
>
> 73 de KB9BVN And all the Flying Pigs!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Jim,
Congratulations on your induction to the QRP Hall of Fame! You truly embody the spirit of QRP and Amateur Radio. We are fortunate to have you among our ranks.
72,
Pat KF4LMZ / AE
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2149|2143|2002-05-19 13:18:39|Steve Smith|Re: Congrats are in Order|Hooray for Jim!
And it couldn't have been presented to a nicer guy. Congrat's Jim!
73.......Steve Smith, WB6TNL
Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
On Sat, 18 May 2002 23:47:08 -0500 "Brian Murrey" <
brian@iquest.net>
writes:
> This evening at FDIM, Jim was inducted into the QRP Hall of Fame.
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.> Pat KF4LMZ / AE
And it would appear we have a new Extra in our ranks! Congrats to you Pat!
73,
John, N1QO
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
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>
>
>
At 06:33 PM 5/15/02 +0000, wa0zpt wrote:
>Does anybody know if Zetex ZTX650 TO-92 switching transistors can be
>used in place of 2n2222A's in the transmitter final amp and/or the
>audio power transistors. They are cheaply available on eBay and
>specs are 1W dissipation, up to 2 amps continuous and can stand up to
>6A temporary pulse current, typical 175 Mhz Ft or possible even
>higher,adequate gain, comparable to 2N2222 variety.
Not the same specs as a 2N2222A, but better in all regards
except the Ft spec. That is typically 250 or 300 MHz on
the real 2N2222A, but it certainly can't handle 2 amps. More
like 500 ma., but I'm going from memory.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
At 06:44 PM 5/15/02 -0400, you wrote:
>I've read up a bit on diode ring mixers, but I'm still unclear on what I'm
>looking for to find a suitable substitute for the 1n4148's.
>
>I've got some MMBD352LT1's. The spec sheet for these says they have 1pF @
>0v, Vr (Voltage reverse rating) of 7v. The forward drop on these is about .4
>to .45 (varies from piece to piece but is the same for each diode in the
>package).
>
>Are these OK?
>
>73,
>
>John, N1QO
Yes, those should work fine John. They are dual diodes, so only
2 packages need to be used for each mixer.
72, and let us all know how they work,
Jim, K8IQY
At 07:28 PM 5/15/02 -0400, you wrote:
>Yeah, that's why I like 'em! Within each package the forward drop is
>identical between each diode. However from piece to the piece the forward
>drop varied pretty widely - took me a number of tests to find a match set.
>
>I'm just unclear as to what I'm looking for as far as specs goes for a diode
>ring mixer. I'm wondering if the forward voltage drop being less is an issue
>(I've been told that's a good thing, but I'm unclear as to why).
Oh, I can answer that. It allows you to drive the diodes into harder
conduction with lower LO power. That give you less conversion loss,
and results in more sensitivity. Does that make sense?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Absolutely. Congrats Jim! I wish I could have been there to see your
induction into the QRP hall of fame.
Many thanks for everything!
72,
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Dennis Ponsness" wrote:
> Jim,
> Congratulations on your induction tonight into the QRP Hall of
Fame. I
> cannot think of anyone more deserving of such an honor. You are a
great
> asset to the QRP community and to ham radio as well. Well done!
>
> 72
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.com
Indeed it does. Thanks Jim.
One last question; using these diodes, is there any reason to change
anything else in the circuit? Or, am I just reaping the benefits of a more
sensitive DBM and not losing anything in the process?
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
>
> Oh, I can answer that. It allows you to drive the diodes into harder
> conduction with lower LO power. That give you less conversion loss,
> and results in more sensitivity. Does that make sense?
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Brian expressed our feelings well. We were all pleased
(that's putting it mildly) when it was announced that Jim
was inducted into the QRP Hall of Fame.
Thank you, Jim, for all that you have done for the QRP
world. We're the lucky dogs.
72,
Kaye, K8GZ
|
2157|2143|2002-05-19 20:21:05|Arth Silvers|Re: Congrats are in Order|Well done, Jim. Please let me add my hardiest congratulations to all
that you have received so far. You have certainly earned entry into the
QRPHOF.
Sorry I couldn't make it to FDIM.
72
Arth W6AGS
|
2158|2135|2002-05-20 10:21:57|wa0zpt|Re: ZTX 650 switching transistors|-Thanks, Jim,I was thinking pretty much along those lines, including
the Ft ratings and at 7 Mhz or possibly evening up through 20 meters
the Zetex devices should play. I think I think I'll order some up and
get started.
-- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 06:33 PM 5/15/02 +0000, wa0zpt wrote:
>
> >Does anybody know if Zetex ZTX650 TO-92 switching transistors can
be
> >used in place of 2n2222A's in the transmitter final amp and/or the
> >audio power transistors. They are cheaply available on eBay and
> >specs are 1W dissipation, up to 2 amps continuous and can stand up
to
> >6A temporary pulse current, typical 175 Mhz Ft or possible even
> >higher,adequate gain, comparable to 2N2222 variety.
>
> Not the same specs as a 2N2222A, but better in all regards
> except the Ft spec. That is typically 250 or 300 MHz on
> the real 2N2222A, but it certainly can't handle 2 amps. More
> like 500 ma., but I'm going from memory.
>
> 72 and GL,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Congratulations to Jim Kortge and Rich Arland on their HoF inductions.
Couldn't have happened to two nicer guys. Thanks to you both for all you've
done for the hobby, which is a ton. Wish I could have been on hand to
applaud your inductions!
Best 72,
David, AD2A
Glen Rock, NJ
|
2160|2160|2002-05-20 11:34:17|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|QRP Hall of Fame|Gang,
Just a short note to all to thank all of you for your support
and the many (14 in total) nominating letters to QRP ARCI recommending
that I be considered for the QRP Hall of Fame. As you all know by
now, that happened, and I am both thrilled and humbled by even
being considered. As it turns out, I also received a unnamious
vote (12 out of 12) to be inducted. That has only happened 2
other times I am told, so I guess it was really my time to be
considered.
I am most greatful to John, N1QO for starting the 2N2-40 Yahoo group,
and to all of you for making it a true success. I don't know about
the rest of you, but I have really enjoyed all of the technical
challenges we have been through together, and all of the building successes
that have achieved. I got to see a couple of them this past weekend,
and they are a joy to behold. It was also a true pleasure meeting
some of you in person.
72 to all, and again, my deepest appreciation for all your support
for my being elected to the QRP Hall of Fame.
Jim, K8IQY
|
2161|2161|2002-05-21 15:05:17|china_clipper2001|My two kids, or .088 ohm resistors! You decide|Here is a picture of two of my gymnasts. They compete for UNL, and I
saw their warm-ups, and the first thing I thought of was that they
looked like little resistors! I think the value is 88 with a
multiplier of .01.
Of course, they didn't quite understand, but I knew my friends at 2n2-
40 would.
I hope you'll accept my apologies for the somewhat off-topic picture,
but I assure you, I only thought it would be fun
|
2162|2162|2002-05-21 15:07:10|china_clipper2001|Sorry!, picture at 2n2-40 photos, under KC0GXX|no text
|
2163|2163|2002-05-21 20:11:03|w6ki|Another 2n2/40 is alive!|Hi gang,
Just thought I'd pop in a note and let you all know that I just made
my first QSO on my 2n2/40. It was only about 40 miles (from Richmond,
CA to San Jose) but the mighty 2 watts netted me a 579.
It took me a looooong time to get it going. I looked back and I saw
my first post was on August 25, 2001! I was gone from home during a
one month vacation in late December, and I put the rig aside, and
just didn't get back to it until two weeks ago. No matter how long it
took, I'm still a proud papa.
I was working with the 11/15 schematics and I used the 2N7000 mute
circuit and I'm having the problems that others have described with a
screeching sidetone. I lifted up the Source leg of the transistor
and I get a pretty nice sidetone after I replaced the 2 Meg resistor
with a 6 Meg. Soldering and unsoldering the 2N7000 leg makes for
difficulties in progressing with a nice QSO, so I've ordered the J176
from JameCo, and I'll give that circuit a try.
My hat is off to those of you who have built the rig with a minimum
of test equipment. I think I made a mistake in just about every
section. I never would've gotten past the RF amp without this list,
a scope and a signal generator. My hat is also off to the designer of
the rig. Nice job Jim. I love the steady VFO and the nice filter.
This rig sounds great!
Glenn, W6KI
|
2164|2163|2002-05-21 20:39:42|Lee Mairs (SAG)|Re: Another 2n2/40 is alive!|Congrats to you. Finishing my own 2N2-40 was the best thing I ever did in ham radio. Don't forget to find Pres Walker (I think that is his name) and submit a photo and first so data so that you can get one of the really neat certificates he provides successful 2N2-20 builders.
73 de Lee, km4yy
2N2-40 # 27
----- Original Message -----
From: w6ki
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 8:10 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Another 2n2/40 is alive!
Hi gang,
Just thought I'd pop in a note and let you all know that I just made
my first QSO on my 2n2/40. It was only about 40 miles (from Richmond,
CA to San Jose) but the mighty 2 watts netted me a 579.
It took me a looooong time to get it going. I looked back and I saw
my first post was on August 25, 2001! I was gone from home during a
one month vacation in late December, and I put the rig aside, and
just didn't get back to it until two weeks ago. No matter how long it
took, I'm still a proud papa.
I was working with the 11/15 schematics and I used the 2N7000 mute
circuit and I'm having the problems that others have described with a
screeching sidetone. I lifted up the Source leg of the transistor
and I get a pretty nice sidetone after I replaced the 2 Meg resistor
with a 6 Meg. Soldering and unsoldering the 2N7000 leg makes for
difficulties in progressing with a nice QSO, so I've ordered the J176
from JameCo, and I'll give that circuit a try.
My hat is off to those of you who have built the rig with a minimum
of test equipment. I think I made a mistake in just about every
section. I never would've gotten past the RF amp without this list,
a scope and a signal generator. My hat is also off to the designer of
the rig. Nice job Jim. I love the steady VFO and the nice filter.
This rig sounds great!
Glenn, W6KI
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I sure wish I could have been there this year to congratulate you in
person. Must have been a great FDIM event to see all those 2N2-40 rig
builders and their handy work. You're the most deserving person I've
known to get this honor. Maybe next year I can attend.
I also haven't been able to keep up with the group in my building
efforts but you've always been encouraging to me to keep going. A
status report is in order. I've resolved the transmit driver problem
and almost completed the three 2n2222 output transistor stage. I'm
currently missing a couple 1K ohm pots (one on the rf input stage and
another for the RIT). Perhaps I can make a parts run downtown this
week and get mine on the air. I've got a box that I've been working on
decals using word. This will allow me to have finished panel look.
I'm also saddened with the news of Wes's passing. He contributed a lot
to this group even with his physical difficulties.
Hope to work you soon but still have the antenna issue with the
neighborhood. Everyone should write their congressman asking for
support to Bill H. R. 4720. Until we have "reasonable consideration"
for antennae installation we're going to be restricted in our ability
to serve our communities as required by the communications act that
allows us to have our license. I've worked out an arrangement where I
can go to a friend's home to make my first contact when I get the rig
in a case. This is the kind of supporting community of we belong as
amateur radio operators. Thanks for everyone's support on this 2n2-40
group during this project. I'm excited about being this close to the
first contact with the little rig but as many of you already know the
first contact is even greater excitement. Thanks Jim for supporting
this great effort and making this a fun learning experience.
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
|
2166|2163|2002-05-21 22:03:56|Jeff Hecht|Re: Another 2n2/40 is alive!|Glenn,
Great job! I know how you felt when the other station answered your
CQ. My first QSO was
about 100 miles or so away... and I think I also netted a 579. Since
then, many QSO's.... last
night into TX from Dayton, OH.... not bad at all..... and tonight...
into Buffalo, NY (did you
hear me Howard???)
Anyway, great job!
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
w6ki wrote:
> Hi gang,
>
> Just thought I'd pop in a note and let you all know that I just made
> my first QSO on my 2n2/40. It was only about 40 miles (from Richmond,
> CA to San Jose) but the mighty 2 watts netted me a 579.
>
> It took me a looooong time to get it going. I looked back and I saw
> my first post was on August 25, 2001! I was gone from home during a
> one month vacation in late December, and I put the rig aside, and
> just didn't get back to it until two weeks ago. No matter how long it
> took, I'm still a proud papa.
>
> I was working with the 11/15 schematics and I used the 2N7000 mute
> circuit and I'm having the problems that others have described with a
> screeching sidetone. I lifted up the Source leg of the transistor
> and I get a pretty nice sidetone after I replaced the 2 Meg resistor
> with a 6 Meg. Soldering and unsoldering the 2N7000 leg makes for
> difficulties in progressing with a nice QSO, so I've ordered the J176
> from JameCo, and I'll give that circuit a try.
>
> My hat is off to those of you who have built the rig with a minimum
> of test equipment. I think I made a mistake in just about every
> section. I never would've gotten past the RF amp without this list,
> a scope and a signal generator. My hat is also off to the designer of
> the rig. Nice job Jim. I love the steady VFO and the nice filter.
> This rig sounds great!
>
> Glenn, W6KI
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Lee...
Preston Douglas is the certificate maker. I got mine the Thursday of
FDIM, so I was able to show it
off to the group there. It looks great! I also got to meet Preston and
several others, including
Jim. What a great bunch of guys. Definitely a class act!
72,
Jeff - K8GD
"Lee Mairs (SAG)" wrote:
> Congrats to you. Finishing my own 2N2-40 was the best thing I ever
> did in ham radio. Don't forget to find Pres Walker (I think that is
> his name) and submit a photo and first so data so that you can get one
> of the really neat certificates he provides successful 2N2-20
> builders.
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
> 2N2-40 # 27
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: w6ki
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 8:10 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Another 2n2/40 is alive!
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
> Just thought I'd pop in a note and let you all know that I just made
>
> my first QSO on my 2n2/40. It was only about 40 miles (from
> Richmond,
> CA to San Jose) but the mighty 2 watts netted me a 579.
>
> It took me a looooong time to get it going. I looked back and I saw
> my first post was on August 25, 2001! I was gone from home during a
> one month vacation in late December, and I put the rig aside, and
> just didn't get back to it until two weeks ago. No matter how long
> it
> took, I'm still a proud papa.
>
> I was working with the 11/15 schematics and I used the 2N7000 mute
> circuit and I'm having the problems that others have described with
> a
> screeching sidetone. I lifted up the Source leg of the transistor
> and I get a pretty nice sidetone after I replaced the 2 Meg resistor
>
> with a 6 Meg. Soldering and unsoldering the 2N7000 leg makes for
> difficulties in progressing with a nice QSO, so I've ordered the
> J176
> from JameCo, and I'll give that circuit a try.
>
> My hat is off to those of you who have built the rig with a minimum
> of test equipment. I think I made a mistake in just about every
> section. I never would've gotten past the RF amp without this list,
> a scope and a signal generator. My hat is also off to the designer
> of
> the rig. Nice job Jim. I love the steady VFO and the nice filter.
> This rig sounds great!
>
> Glenn, W6KI
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Jeff is right. It is Preston Douglas. As I have yet to pass my code
element I hadn't been able to get a certificate for my 2n2. That was
solved at the QRP homebrew contest on Friday night. Preston, WJ2V, made
a contact with Chuck Adams, K7QO, so the SASE is in the mail to Preston
for the certificate. Thanks to all who helped with the hookup. We
needed two dummy loads, and some antenna wire.
BTW, it made honorable mention.
----- Original Message -----
From: "w6ki" <w6ki@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 8:10 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Another 2n2/40 is alive!
> Hi gang,
>
> Just thought I'd pop in a note and let you all know that I just made
> my first QSO on my 2n2/40. It was only about 40 miles (from Richmond,
> CA to San Jose) but the mighty 2 watts netted me a 579.
>
> It took me a looooong time to get it going. I looked back and I saw
> my first post was on August 25, 2001! I was gone from home during a
> one month vacation in late December, and I put the rig aside, and
> just didn't get back to it until two weeks ago. No matter how long it
> took, I'm still a proud papa.
>
> I was working with the 11/15 schematics and I used the 2N7000 mute
> circuit and I'm having the problems that others have described with a
> screeching sidetone. I lifted up the Source leg of the transistor
> and I get a pretty nice sidetone after I replaced the 2 Meg resistor
> with a 6 Meg. Soldering and unsoldering the 2N7000 leg makes for
> difficulties in progressing with a nice QSO, so I've ordered the J176
> from JameCo, and I'll give that circuit a try.
>
> My hat is off to those of you who have built the rig with a minimum
> of test equipment. I think I made a mistake in just about every
> section. I never would've gotten past the RF amp without this list,
> a scope and a signal generator. My hat is also off to the designer of
> the rig. Nice job Jim. I love the steady VFO and the nice filter.
> This rig sounds great!
>
> Glenn, W6KI
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
Sponsor ---------------------~-->
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>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 12:10 AM 5/22/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi gang,
>
>Just thought I'd pop in a note and let you all know that I just made
>my first QSO on my 2n2/40. It was only about 40 miles (from Richmond,
>CA to San Jose) but the mighty 2 watts netted me a 579.
>
>It took me a looooong time to get it going. I looked back and I saw
>my first post was on August 25, 2001! I was gone from home during a
>one month vacation in late December, and I put the rig aside, and
>just didn't get back to it until two weeks ago. No matter how long it
>took, I'm still a proud papa.
>
>I was working with the 11/15 schematics and I used the 2N7000 mute
>circuit and I'm having the problems that others have described with a
>screeching sidetone. I lifted up the Source leg of the transistor
>and I get a pretty nice sidetone after I replaced the 2 Meg resistor
>with a 6 Meg. Soldering and unsoldering the 2N7000 leg makes for
>difficulties in progressing with a nice QSO, so I've ordered the J176
>from JameCo, and I'll give that circuit a try.
>
>My hat is off to those of you who have built the rig with a minimum
>of test equipment. I think I made a mistake in just about every
>section. I never would've gotten past the RF amp without this list,
>a scope and a signal generator. My hat is also off to the designer of
>the rig. Nice job Jim. I love the steady VFO and the nice filter.
>This rig sounds great!
>
>Glenn, W6KI
Glenn,
Congratulations on finishing your rig and making a contact with
it. Outstanding!! Now you need to send a picture of it to
Preston Douglas, WJ2V and get a certificate. I believe his is
still offering those.
I think you will find the J176 flavor of Rx mute to do a better
job than the 2N7000 version. As for the steady VFO and the filter,
those do see to work well. Both of my rigs are rock steady.
72 and thanks for the good news,
Jim, K8IQY
Took my unfinished board over to a friend's house - T.G.F.E..(Thank
God for Elmers)
Wondered why I couldn't hear 40 meter CW when I plugged it into my
general coverage RX ....well, a couple of transformers in backwards
and some other wires mis-wired answered that question.
So...we got the primaries and secondaries in the right order, and I
went home to bed.
Carefully re-checked all the leads, hooked up everything today, and
turned on 40 meters. Sounds like the band is dead, so I plugged in
my good ole' SMK-1. There's the oscillator, purring along at
7.040...so now I'll just put the general coverage RX on 2.185...wire
from the output of the filter to the antenna...clip lead on "Pot 5
Wiper" for an antenna...tune around a bit...WOW, there it is! Wiggle
the knob on the SMK just to make sure that's what I'm hearing and
Woolah! Should have the RX at least finished this weekend...hey, I'm
posting again...feels good! I'm alive!
Look for me in the Hootowl Sprint, and WPX this weekend...hope to be
at the park again on Sunday. Probably 15 or 20 CW.
Del, AD6WE
|
2171|2170|2002-05-24 19:06:24|Lee Mairs (SAG)|Re: I can hear the heart beating...|Del -
Didn't I tell you that the transformers were incorrect? They ALWAYS are!
Good work.
73 de Lee
km4yy
----- Original Message -----
From: ad6we_del
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 5:59 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] I can hear the heart beating...
Took my unfinished board over to a friend's house - T.G.F.E..(Thank
God for Elmers)
Wondered why I couldn't hear 40 meter CW when I plugged it into my
general coverage RX ....well, a couple of transformers in backwards
and some other wires mis-wired answered that question.
So...we got the primaries and secondaries in the right order, and I
went home to bed.
Carefully re-checked all the leads, hooked up everything today, and
turned on 40 meters. Sounds like the band is dead, so I plugged in
my good ole' SMK-1. There's the oscillator, purring along at
7.040...so now I'll just put the general coverage RX on 2.185...wire
from the output of the filter to the antenna...clip lead on "Pot 5
Wiper" for an antenna...tune around a bit...WOW, there it is! Wiggle
the knob on the SMK just to make sure that's what I'm hearing and
Woolah! Should have the RX at least finished this weekend...hey, I'm
posting again...feels good! I'm alive!
Look for me in the Hootowl Sprint, and WPX this weekend...hope to be
at the park again on Sunday. Probably 15 or 20 CW.
Del, AD6WE
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Gee, I wish I could say I never did that!
Glad to hear you're back on track Del. I'd look for ya' in the sprint, 'cept
I have no antler up at the moment! Big windstorm here a couple of weeks ago
took down both of my HF wire antennas. I hope to build a dipole tomorrow and
get back on the air.
I'm also still working on my 2n2-40+ SMT version but have been holding off
on it lately. I've got to order some more stuff from Mouser to get smaller
SM and Poly caps for the VFO. The ones I bought from Dans are good, but
they're way too big for a rig built with SMT parts! Maybe I'll do that this
weekend as well...
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "ad6we_del" <AD6WE@hotmail.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 21:59:13 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] I can hear the heart beating...
>
> Took my unfinished board over to a friend's house - T.G.F.E..(Thank
> God for Elmers)
>
> Wondered why I couldn't hear 40 meter CW when I plugged it into my
> general coverage RX ....well, a couple of transformers in backwards
> and some other wires mis-wired answered that question.
>
> So...we got the primaries and secondaries in the right order, and I
> went home to bed.
>
> Carefully re-checked all the leads, hooked up everything today, and
> turned on 40 meters. Sounds like the band is dead, so I plugged in
> my good ole' SMK-1. There's the oscillator, purring along at
> 7.040...so now I'll just put the general coverage RX on 2.185...wire
> from the output of the filter to the antenna...clip lead on "Pot 5
> Wiper" for an antenna...tune around a bit...WOW, there it is! Wiggle
> the knob on the SMK just to make sure that's what I'm hearing and
> Woolah! Should have the RX at least finished this weekend...hey, I'm
> posting again...feels good! I'm alive!
>
> Look for me in the Hootowl Sprint, and WPX this weekend...hope to be
> at the park again on Sunday. Probably 15 or 20 CW.
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hey guys.
Just thought I would let you know that I worked an F9 and G3 station
in the contest this weekend with my 2N2/40 from Dayton, OH. Both of
them came back after my first call.
Jim and Howard.... I installed the $4.00 vernier on my rig. Much
nicer. Thanks!
72,
Jeff - K8GD
|
2174|2173|2002-05-26 21:47:47|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: DX in the contest this weekend|At 01:19 AM 5/27/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Hey guys.
>
>Just thought I would let you know that I worked an F9 and G3 station
>in the contest this weekend with my 2N2/40 from Dayton, OH. Both of
>them came back after my first call.
>
>Jim and Howard.... I installed the $4.00 vernier on my rig. Much
>nicer. Thanks!
>
>72,
>
>Jeff - K8GD
Nice going Jeff. FB on the new vernier too. We knew you'd like
that!! :-)
72 and thanks for the report,
Jim, K8IQY
Jeff,
Glad to hear you're operating. I have been using my MFJ Morse Code
Tutor for about a half hour each day since Dayton. Hope to have my
license by the end of June. Good job on the rig. Talk to you soon.
Kevin.
----- Original Message -----
From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 9:19 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] DX in the contest this weekend
> Hey guys.
>
> Just thought I would let you know that I worked an F9 and G3 station
> in the contest this weekend with my 2N2/40 from Dayton, OH. Both of
> them came back after my first call.
>
> Jim and Howard.... I installed the $4.00 vernier on my rig. Much
> nicer. Thanks!
>
> 72,
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
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Sponsor ---------------------~-->
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>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
John...
Look up W3FF portable dipole
http://www.qsl.net/w3ff/antenna_design.htm ...I made one and it works great. It breaks down and stores easily too.
I'm planning on using it for field day, and might even make two of them for
a beam sometime.
Del, AD6WE
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.comGot mine up last noght on the workbench into 50 ohm load, 30 VP-P.
Will attempt to put an antenna and key on it tonight.
Working on a front panel with Power Point. Hope to have it in its
closure this week and ready for FD.
73,
Ken, KD2KW
Spring, Texas
|
2178|2177|2002-06-03 09:27:00|John Wagner|Re: Heart beating on another 2N2-40|Way to go Ken!
Anyone else still plugging away? Haven't seen much traffic on the list for a
while.
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "kd2kw" <kenm1@ev1.net>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 13:12:14 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Heart beating on another 2N2-40
>
> Got mine up last noght on the workbench into 50 ohm load, 30 VP-P.
> Will attempt to put an antenna and key on it tonight.
>
> Working on a front panel with Power Point. Hope to have it in its
> closure this week and ready for FD.
>
> 73,
> Ken, KD2KW
> Spring, Texas
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
John asked:
>Anyone else still plugging away? Haven't seen much traffic on the list for
a
>while.
Well, I wasn't going to post until I made a little more progress. But since
you asked, I will let you know that I have finally started building mine!
The TX/RX circuit and about 3/4 of the oscillator are finished. June won't
be a good month for building but hopefully I will be able to keep plugging
away at it.
Congrats to Ken!
72
Jerry
W0PWE
Ken,
Congratulations. Post some pictures if you can when you get it done.
I'm sure we would all love to see it!
Best 72.
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "kd2kw" wrote:
> Got mine up last noght on the workbench into 50 ohm load, 30 VP-P.
> Will attempt to put an antenna and key on it tonight.
>
> Working on a front panel with Power Point. Hope to have it in its
> closure this week and ready for FD.
>
> 73,
> Ken, KD2KW
> Spring, Texas
Well,
I have been plugging away on the 2N2/15 slowly - had to wait 'till I
got some parts in. Hope to have the full RX done by the end of this
month - have a couple weeks of vacation coming up!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
2182|2177|2002-06-03 10:26:37|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Heart beating on another 2N2-40|At 01:12 PM 6/3/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Got mine up last noght on the workbench into 50 ohm load, 30 VP-P.
>Will attempt to put an antenna and key on it tonight.
>
>Working on a front panel with Power Point. Hope to have it in its
>closure this week and ready for FD.
>
>73,
>Ken, KD2KW
>Spring, Texas
Very good news to hear Ken. Congrats and hope to work you one
of these evenings.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I've started on mine. I had a hard time stripping the leads on the toroids until I ordered some new wire from MPJA. Great wire, easy to strip and good service. Anyway I have the VFO done and I get about 4 volts PEP out. I need to change the value of C12 or C15 to move the peak into the middle of the vfo range. Anyway having fun.
Dave Pomeroy K7DNP Eastern Washington
|
2184|2177|2002-06-03 13:00:11|Mark Schoonover|Re: Heart beating on another 2N2-40|After taking about 8 months to collect all the parts, I'm about ready to
start building mine!!
--{ Mark E Schoonover KA6WKE
--{ Senior Hacker, IS Gopher, Hardware Fiend
--{ American Geotechnical
--{
http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke --{
ka6wke@amsat.org /"\
\ / ASCII Ribbon Campaign
X Against HTML Mail
/ \
grampa,
im getting ur emails to
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com. how
come? how r u doing? hows grama feeling? how everone
else? im fine i guess.
holli
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.comGang sorry about the post. I don't know why my grand daughter got the 2n2-40 message and when I replied I forgot to make it to her only and not to the list. You would think that one who makes his living with computers would get the hang of this before to long. Take care and I'm building.
Dave Pomeroy K7DNP Eastern Washington
|
2188|2188|2002-06-05 10:20:06|n4dkd|parts |Just joined the group, looks like I am late to the party. I have been
reading the post, and plan to start on the project. So I am in the
parts acquisition stage. If there are any of the parts kits(caps
or ?) I would be interested. Otherwise, I'll take the parts list and
go shopping. Thanks to all who have posted the files, it makes it
nice. .
Brian
N4DKD
|
2189|2189|2002-06-05 12:58:24|jhecht@dnaco.net|Re: parts|Brian,
Don't worry... you're not late to the party. I had a blast building the rig, and now using it. It is a wonderful design
I got quite a few of the parts for mine from Dan's Small Parts and Kits. He has the tough to find things like the varactor diodes. It can take a few weeks from the time you place your order, to the time you receive it, but they are good quality parts. I'm actually waiting on a bundle of parts right now.
Also, this group is a great resource for answering any questions you might have about the 2N2/40+.
Happy parts hunting :)
72,
Jeff - K8GD
Original Message:
-----------------
From: n4dkd
n4dkd@yahoo.com Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 14:19:58 -0000
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] parts
Just joined the group, looks like I am late to the party. I have been
reading the post, and plan to start on the project. So I am in the
parts acquisition stage. If there are any of the parts kits(caps
or ?) I would be interested. Otherwise, I'll take the parts list and
go shopping. Thanks to all who have posted the files, it makes it
nice. .
Brian
N4DKD
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo! Terms of Service --------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
You're not all that late. I've been collecting parts here and there for the
last 8 months. I'm finishing up my HF mobile install and then moving on to
the 2N2/40. This will make a good summer project.
72
--{ Mark E Schoonover KA6WKE
--{ Senior Hacker, IS Gopher, Hardware Fiend
--{ American Geotechnical
--{
http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke --{
ka6wke@amsat.org > -----Original Message-----
> From: n4dkd [mailto:n4dkd@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 7:20 AM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] parts
>
>
> Just joined the group, looks like I am late to the party. I have been
> reading the post, and plan to start on the project. So I am in the
> parts acquisition stage. If there are any of the parts kits(caps
> or ?) I would be interested. Otherwise, I'll take the parts list and
> go shopping. Thanks to all who have posted the files, it makes it
> nice. .
>
>
> Brian
>
> N4DKD
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ---------------------~-->
> Kwick Pick opens locked car doors,
> front doors, drawers, briefcases,
> padlocks, and more. On sale now!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/ehaLqB/Fg5DAA/Ey.GAA/ELTolB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> -------~->
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Brian, I still have some mvam109's if you need them.
KD5KXF
mmalone@worldlogon.com -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Schoonover <
schoon@amgt.com>
To: '
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com' <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 12:20 PM
Subject: RE: [2n2-40] parts
>You're not all that late. I've been collecting parts here and there for the
>last 8 months. I'm finishing up my HF mobile install and then moving on to
>the 2N2/40. This will make a good summer project.
>
>72
>
>--{ Mark E Schoonover KA6WKE
>--{ Senior Hacker, IS Gopher, Hardware Fiend
>--{ American Geotechnical
>--{ http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke
>--{ ka6wke@amsat.org
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: n4dkd [mailto:n4dkd@yahoo.com]
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 7:20 AM
>> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [2n2-40] parts
>>
>>
>> Just joined the group, looks like I am late to the party. I have been
>> reading the post, and plan to start on the project. So I am in the
>> parts acquisition stage. If there are any of the parts kits(caps
>> or ?) I would be interested. Otherwise, I'll take the parts list and
>> go shopping. Thanks to all who have posted the files, it makes it
>> nice. .
>>
>>
>> Brian
>>
>> N4DKD
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>> ---------------------~-->
>> Kwick Pick opens locked car doors,
>> front doors, drawers, briefcases,
>> padlocks, and more. On sale now!
>> http://us.click.yahoo.com/ehaLqB/Fg5DAA/Ey.GAA/ELTolB/TM
>> --------------------------------------------------------------
>> -------~->
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Brian,
Dan's was great; right away he sent me
everything I ordered, including trimmer
caps, trimmer resistors, spare 2n2222a's
in metal and plastic packages, a 6' length
of RG174U coax, and other items. Everything
was there, and turnaround time from the time
I mailed my order was about ten days as I
recall. The little package arrived via
Priority Mail. Form of payment may have to do
with the turnaround time. I sent a US Postal
Money Order with my order. A personal check
may hold things up till it clears.
73 de WP4GVW (ex KP4ABF)
--- "
jhecht@dnaco.net" <
jhecht@dnaco.net> wrote:
> Brian,
>
> Don't worry... you're not late to the party. I had
> a blast building the rig, and now using it. It is a
> wonderful design
> I got quite a few of the parts for mine from Dan's
> Small Parts and Kits. He has the tough to find
> things like the varactor diodes. It can take a few
> weeks from the time you place your order, to the
> time you receive it, but they are good quality
> parts. I'm actually waiting on a bundle of parts
> right now.
>
> Also, this group is a great resource for answering
> any questions you might have about the 2N2/40+.
>
> Happy parts hunting :)
>
> 72,
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
> Original Message:
> -----------------
> From: n4dkd n4dkd@yahoo.com
> Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 14:19:58 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] parts
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Just joined the group, looks like I am late to the
> party. I have been
> reading the post, and plan to start on the project.
> So I am in the
> parts acquisition stage. If there are any of the
> parts kits(caps
> or ?) I would be interested. Otherwise, I'll take
> the parts list and
> go shopping. Thanks to all who have posted the
> files, it makes it
> nice. .
>
>
> Brian
>
> N4DKD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email
> to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the > href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo!
> Terms of Service
>
>
>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web - Check your email from the web at
> http://mail2web.com/ .
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
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>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.comMike ,
Thanks for the offer on the mvam109's, I just bought some,paid too
much, but got em. Thanks again for the offer.
Brian
N4DKD
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Mike Malone" wrote:
> Brian, I still have some mvam109's if you need them.
> KD5KXF
> mmalone@w...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Schoonover
> To: '2n2-40@y...' <2n2-40@y...>
> Date: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 12:20 PM
> Subject: RE: [2n2-40] parts
>
>
> >You're not all that late. I've been collecting parts here and
there for the
> >last 8 months. I'm finishing up my HF mobile install and then
moving on to
> >the 2N2/40. This will make a good summer project.
> >
> >72
> >
> >--{ Mark E Schoonover KA6WKE
> >--{ Senior Hacker, IS Gopher, Hardware Fiend
> >--{ American Geotechnical
> >--{ http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke
> >--{ ka6wke@a...
> >
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: n4dkd [mailto:n4dkd@y...]
> >> Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 7:20 AM
> >> To: 2n2-40@y...
> >> Subject: [2n2-40] parts
> >>
> >>
> >> Just joined the group, looks like I am late to the party. I have
been
> >> reading the post, and plan to start on the project. So I am in
the
> >> parts acquisition stage. If there are any of the parts kits(caps
> >> or ?) I would be interested. Otherwise, I'll take the parts list
and
> >> go shopping. Thanks to all who have posted the files, it makes it
> >> nice. .
> >>
> >>
> >> Brian
> >>
> >> N4DKD
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> >> ---------------------~-->
> >> Kwick Pick opens locked car doors,
> >> front doors, drawers, briefcases,
> >> padlocks, and more. On sale now!
> >> http://us.click.yahoo.com/ehaLqB/Fg5DAA/Ey.GAA/ELTolB/TM
> >> --------------------------------------------------------------
> >> -------~->
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> >> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
Gang,
I will be operating CW at the N1QS (Northern Vermont QRP Society) Field Day
site. We will be 100% QRP battery powered w/solar charging.
The main CW rig for N1QS will be an IC-706MKIIG, *BUT*, I will be bringing
along my 2n2-40+ and plan on putting it on the air in the late evening hours
for a few (maybe a bunch?) of 40m contacts.
It would be great if you folks in this group could slip your 2n2-40's on the
air during FD as well.
73,
John, N1QO
|
2195|2195|2002-06-14 16:21:30|kb5dlq|2n2|hello all
where do i find the plands to this 2n2 rig?
i think i would to put one together.
|
2196|2195|2002-06-14 16:34:57|John Wagner|Re: 2n2||
2197|2197|2002-06-15 14:32:15|Kevin M.|Test...read|HEAR YEA! HEAR YEA! HEAR YEA!
Let it be known that on this fifteenth day of June, in the year of our
Lord two thousand and two, Kevin R. Murphy of the call letters KC8SFJ,
did pass element 1, the 5 word per minute code exam and element 3, the
general class written exam in the small hamlet of Midland in the state
of Michigan, at their annual swap-n-shop.
Thank you, that is all.
Kevin, KC8SFJ/AG
QRP-L #2366 - member since October/2001
QRP-ARCI #11248 - member since May/2002
HR - member since September/1965
--
AdverseYaw@twmi.rr.com <-- My email address
AdverseYaw@bigfoot.com <-- My forwarding address
Quote of the day--
At 02:32 PM 6/15/02 -0400, you wrote:
> HEAR YEA! HEAR YEA! HEAR YEA!
>
>Let it be known that on this fifteenth day of June, in the year of our
>Lord two thousand and two, Kevin R. Murphy of the call letters KC8SFJ,
>did pass element 1, the 5 word per minute code exam and element 3, the
>general class written exam in the small hamlet of Midland in the state
>of Michigan, at their annual swap-n-shop.
>
>Thank you, that is all.
>
>Kevin, KC8SFJ/AG
Way to go Kevin. Now get that beautiful 2N2/40 on the air so
we can work!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Should have gone to the Midland swap, as the cycling sure got rained out
this morning!!!
Nice going Kevin - looking forward to a QSO!
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "Kevin M." <adverseyaw@bigfoot.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 14:32:11 -0400
> To: "2N2/40 List Server" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>, "Low Power Amateur Radio
> Discussion" <qrp-l@Lehigh.EDU>, "DrMurf" <DrMurf@twmi.rr.com>,
> <mhandren@kalittacharters.com>, <sbrito@kalittacharters.com>, "Paul Everett
> Ostrom" <Postrom@nhkc.com>
> Subject: [2n2-40] Test...read
>
> HEAR YEA! HEAR YEA! HEAR YEA!
>
> Let it be known that on this fifteenth day of June, in the year of our
> Lord two thousand and two, Kevin R. Murphy of the call letters KC8SFJ,
> did pass element 1, the 5 word per minute code exam and element 3, the
> general class written exam in the small hamlet of Midland in the state
> of Michigan, at their annual swap-n-shop.
>
> Thank you, that is all.
>
> Kevin, KC8SFJ/AG
> QRP-L #2366 - member since October/2001
> QRP-ARCI #11248 - member since May/2002
> HR - member since September/1965
> --
>
> AdverseYaw@twmi.rr.com <-- My email address
> AdverseYaw@bigfoot.com <-- My forwarding address
> Quote of the day--
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Sweeeeeeeet! I'll be looking for you on 40!
Jeff - K8GD
"Kevin M." wrote:
> HEAR YEA! HEAR YEA! HEAR YEA!
>
> Let it be known that on this fifteenth day of June, in the year of our
>
> Lord two thousand and two, Kevin R. Murphy of the call letters KC8SFJ,
>
> did pass element 1, the 5 word per minute code exam and element 3, the
>
> general class written exam in the small hamlet of Midland in the state
>
> of Michigan, at their annual swap-n-shop.
>
> Thank you, that is all.
>
> Kevin, KC8SFJ/AG
> QRP-L #2366 - member since October/2001
> QRP-ARCI #11248 - member since May/2002
> HR - member since September/1965
> --
>
> AdverseYaw@twmi.rr.com <-- My email address
> AdverseYaw@bigfoot.com <-- My forwarding address
> Quote of the day--
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Kevin M."
wrote:
> HEAR YEA! HEAR YEA! HEAR YEA!
Kevin,
That's great. Congratulations. You certainly have
been busy. Enjoy the new license.
72,
Kaye, K8GZGreetings Group
Yes, still plugging away here, got my digital
camera etc, but have not done too much with it, as it
seems retirement makes peolpe MORE busy... : )
I've got the main wiring done on the board, and
most all the pads glued down, but have done more work
on the case and battery compartment than I probably
should have. I put three sets of rechargable AAs in
battery holders in the lid of the candy box for my
rig, each battery holder is designed to hold two
batteries, and will be able to pop them out at will,
for checking them out. I wanted to have each set of
twelve volts switchable both to charge individually or
to run the rig with one while doing whatever, or
standby with the others, but am having trouble
dreaming up the switching to pull a set in at will,
and still have them isolated from each other without
using plugs... Don't know why for sure I need these
seperate, except I thought I might run the rig once in
awhile with a blank or two to lower the voltage for
dropping the power a bit. A sawed off rod in place of
a battery and placed on one of the twelve volt
sections, would let me experiment at least with the
voltages, but will probably run the full 12 volts
anyways most of the time, so am talking myself out of
this problem... I think... : )
I still do not know how to use that camera yet, so
it is getting too late to make progress reports, but I
am still out here... Very glad to see all those
positive progress reports from everyone else, keep up
the good work, this is a good list to be a part of.
73, 72 everyone
Bill KE9XQ
--- John Wagner <
john@wagner-usa.net> wrote:
> Way to go Ken!
>
> Anyone else still plugging away? Haven't seen much
> traffic on the list for a
> while.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.comI recommend getting the darned thing running first. Once you can hear the
sweet sound of 40 meter CW tickling your ears, the packaging process will be
a lot more fun.
I had my 2N2-40 with me on Oak Island (about 45 miles SE of New York City in
the Great South Bay) for the past two weeks. I tuned a 40 foot center-fed
dipole fed with 300 ohm lead with a ZM2 (after verifying that the ZM2 would
work correctly - Anybody got a source for decent capacitors for that thing?)
and worked a couple of stations each night before turning in. The antenna
was draped across some tree branches about 15 feet in the air. No DX (don't
count the VE2 in Ontario), but still fun surprising people with my
"...running 2 watts hr".
It amazes me how much better the 2N2-40 receiver is than the other QRP home
brew rigs available. I got a five stage passive audio filter kit from Ed
Wetherhold, W3NQN, (410) 268-0916. Coupled to the audio out of the 2N2-40
and you can copy individual signals without any QRM. The W3NQN filter is an
absolute necessity for my other QRP rigs (NorCal 38Special, NorCal 40, and
the SW-20 +) when the bands are busy, and a nice addition to the 2N2-40. I
think Ed's filters sell for $35 now, and they are a real steal at that
price.
I hope to get on for a bit of Field Day but the main project is to cut grass
in WV this weekend. How long do the strands of grass have to get before you
start calling it jungle...
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Wood" <tryvlf@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Yes, Still Plugging Away
> Greetings Group
> Yes, still plugging away here, got my digital
> camera etc, but have not done too much with it, as it
> seems retirement makes peolpe MORE busy... : )
> I've got the main wiring done on the board, and
> most all the pads glued down, but have done more work
> on the case and battery compartment than I probably
> should have. I put three sets of rechargable AAs in
> battery holders in the lid of the candy box for my
> rig, each battery holder is designed to hold two
> batteries, and will be able to pop them out at will,
> for checking them out. I wanted to have each set of
> twelve volts switchable both to charge individually or
> to run the rig with one while doing whatever, or
> standby with the others, but am having trouble
> dreaming up the switching to pull a set in at will,
> and still have them isolated from each other without
> using plugs... Don't know why for sure I need these
> seperate, except I thought I might run the rig once in
> awhile with a blank or two to lower the voltage for
> dropping the power a bit. A sawed off rod in place of
> a battery and placed on one of the twelve volt
> sections, would let me experiment at least with the
> voltages, but will probably run the full 12 volts
> anyways most of the time, so am talking myself out of
> this problem... I think... : )
> I still do not know how to use that camera yet, so
> it is getting too late to make progress reports, but I
> am still out here... Very glad to see all those
> positive progress reports from everyone else, keep up
> the good work, this is a good list to be a part of.
> 73, 72 everyone
> Bill KE9XQ
> --- John Wagner <john@wagner-usa.net> wrote:
> > Way to go Ken!
> >
> > Anyone else still plugging away? Haven't seen much
> > traffic on the list for a
> > while.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > John, N1QO
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hey guys.
I wanted to let you know that the new Harbor Freight store opened up
here in Dayton. I picked up one of the hand punches (#44060 $19.99)
for making pads..... Man is that thing nice. The little 1/8 inch pads
are perfect for Manhattan stuff, and I can crank those babies out
pretty fast.
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
|
2205|2205|2002-07-01 21:08:22|adverse_yaw|First Contact|Gang,
Well as most of you know I passed my General exam middle of last
month. So, I have a 2n2/40 and the license to use it.
I have my antenna up now, a G5RV up 28 feet give or take. I have yet
to make my first contact as a ham, much less as a CW op. If you
would like to be my first I will be on at 0135 zulu (about 35 min
from this post) on 7.055 mhz give or take (haven't checked if it is
busy yet). Please come and give me a call.
I can only recieve at about 6 wpm but I am working on getting it
higher.
Hope to see you there.
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|
2206|2205|2002-07-01 21:56:50|John Wagner|Re: First Contact|Kevin,
I'm on or near 7.055 calling you... it's 0155z...
73,
John, N1QO
> From: "adverse_yaw" <adverseyaw@bigfoot.com>
> Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 01:08:18 -0000
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] First Contact
>
> Gang,
> Well as most of you know I passed my General exam middle of last
> month. So, I have a 2n2/40 and the license to use it.
> I have my antenna up now, a G5RV up 28 feet give or take. I have yet
> to make my first contact as a ham, much less as a CW op. If you
> would like to be my first I will be on at 0135 zulu (about 35 min
> from this post) on 7.055 mhz give or take (haven't checked if it is
> busy yet). Please come and give me a call.
> I can only recieve at about 6 wpm but I am working on getting it
> higher.
> Hope to see you there.
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
still listening... I can't hear you yet but am still looking..
kevin
--- In 2n2-40@y..., John Wagner wrote:
> Kevin,
>
> I'm on or near 7.055 calling you... it's 0155z...
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> > From: "adverse_yaw"
> > Reply-To: 2n2-40@y...
> > Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 01:08:18 -0000
> > To: 2n2-40@y...
> > Subject: [2n2-40] First Contact
> >
> > Gang,
> > Well as most of you know I passed my General exam middle of last
> > month. So, I have a 2n2/40 and the license to use it.
> > I have my antenna up now, a G5RV up 28 feet give or take. I have
yet
> > to make my first contact as a ham, much less as a CW op. If you
> > would like to be my first I will be on at 0135 zulu (about 35 min
> > from this post) on 7.055 mhz give or take (haven't checked if it
is
> > busy yet). Please come and give me a call.
> > I can only recieve at about 6 wpm but I am working on getting it
> > higher.
> > Hope to see you there.
> > Kevin, KC8SFJ
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
Jim et al.,
I have been tuning up my 2n2 and have noticed that I get a frequency
shift when I key.
The frequency shift is about 70-80Hz with the RIT wired in. When I
unplug the RIT it is only about 30Hz. Is this normal? What can I do to
prevent it?
Thanks,
Kevin, KC8SFJ
QRP-L #2366 - member since October/2001
QRP-ARCI #11248 - member since May/2002
HR - member since September/1965
--
AdverseYaw@twmi.rr.com <-- My email address
AdverseYaw@bigfoot.com <-- My forwarding address
Quote of the day--
You should never wear your best trouser when you go out to fight
for liberty and freedom - Henry Ibson
Kevin,
Which RIT did you build? I had the 2N2222 version before and did have a
slight frequency shift on the
outside edges of the RIT. Since I installed the 2N7000 version, I have
no detectable shift. Does the signal
sound "yooopy" or like it is chirping? I noticed that if my battery is
getting low, or I am using a cheap
power supply, my 2N2/40 will starting chirping. This is because of
voltage fluctuations in the VFO when
you key the transmitter (i.e. more current required.... VFO voltage
drops slightly, causing the transmitted
signal to sound yoopy).
Just a couple of thoughts.... and hope it helps. I still need to work
you sometime. I work Michigan all
the time on my 2N2/40 so I know it's possible. Let's set up a sked
sometime.
Best 72,
Jeff
"Kevin M., KC8SFJ" wrote:
> Jim et al.,
> I have been tuning up my 2n2 and have noticed that I get a frequency
> shift when I key.
> The frequency shift is about 70-80Hz with the RIT wired in. When I
> unplug the RIT it is only about 30Hz. Is this normal? What can I do
> to
> prevent it?
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin, KC8SFJ
> QRP-L #2366 - member since October/2001
> QRP-ARCI #11248 - member since May/2002
> HR - member since September/1965
> --
>
> AdverseYaw@twmi.rr.com <-- My email address
> AdverseYaw@bigfoot.com <-- My forwarding address
> Quote of the day--
>
> You should never wear your best trouser when you go out to fight
> for liberty and freedom - Henry Ibson
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Jeff Hecht
wrote:
> Kevin,
>
> Which RIT did you build? I had the 2N2222 version before and did
> have a slight frequency shift on the
> outside edges of the RIT. Since I installed the 2N7000 version, I
> have no detectable shift.
I built the 2n2222 one. I used a 2N3904 SMT transistor but I used
two 1.5k resistors thinking that would be alright. It isn't. As Jim
noted in an earlier post the ratio is important to more closely
resemble the on/off of the transistor (or something like that)
So, I cut a trace and put in a 100 ohm resistor to compensate. Now
it is only 30Hz with the RIT plugged in. I think that is all I will
be able to get, using the 2n2222 arrangement.
> Does the signal sound "yooopy" or like it is chirping? I noticed
> that if my battery is getting low, or I am using a cheap
> power supply, my 2N2/40 will starting chirping. This is because of
> voltage fluctuations in the VFO when
> you key the transmitter (i.e. more current required.... VFO voltage
> drops slightly, causing the transmitted signal to sound yoopy).
I think I figured out the problem. I was using my ant with a
straight hookup and it has a high VSWR. I am using my emtech ZM-2
now and it is better.
> Just a couple of thoughts.... and hope it helps. I still need to
work you sometime. I work Michigan all
> the time on my 2N2/40 so I know it's possible. Let's set up a sked
> sometime.
>
> Best 72,
>
> Jeff
Kevin,
Make sure that you have a good ground connection from the RIT board to
the main 2N2 board as well! I "forgot" to do that initially and all sorts of
"strange" things happened!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
NJQRP #329
FPQRP #-347
SOC #499
FISTS # Pending
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.comI am still in parts acquisition stage(#@LL. I think I have a good
list of the npo , and various caps and have my order off. Now on to
the xtal filter. Before I order a batch to get some matched, I
noticed in early post that there were available on the group. any
chance that any of these varible crystal filter kits are left ?
Thanks
Brian
N4DKD
|
2214|2214|2002-07-12 22:22:05|dek8gd|Great Receiver|Just worked Tom, W1EAT in Burlington, VT from the Dayton area. He was
running 500mW. This is with my trapped vertical (5BTV) with 1 (one)
ground radial. Some QRN here, but I could hear him and we had a nice
15 minute or so QSO. What a great receiver!
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
|
2215|2208|2002-07-13 17:49:46|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Frequency Shift on Key|At 10:47 AM 7/7/02 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim et al.,
>I have been tuning up my 2n2 and have noticed that I get a frequency
>shift when I key.
Not good.........
>The frequency shift is about 70-80Hz with the RIT wired in.
Which version of the RIT. The old design using the 2N2222
will do some of that. Can't be avoided. With the newer
2N7000 version, that shift will go away.
> When I
>unplug the RIT it is only about 30Hz. Is this normal?
No. You must have some voltage sag from your power source that is
making the VXO change frequency. Probably running from a battery that
has too high of an internal impedance. What does it do with your
bench power supply?
> What can I do to
>prevent it?
Stiffer power supply, or add a regulator between the power source and
the rig.
72 and keep us all informed as to your success,
Jim, K8IQY
Is anybody out there thinking about converting that 2n2-40 to the
new 5 Mhz band, when it becomes available, or designing a new 2n2
transceiver for that band?
|
2217|2216|2002-07-17 21:44:50|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: new band|At 03:21 AM 7/16/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Is anybody out there thinking about converting that 2n2-40 to the
>new 5 Mhz band, when it becomes available, or designing a new 2n2
>transceiver for that band?
I'm thinking about the latter, doing a revised design for that
band. Should be quite simple to scale everything. It may require
a new IF frequency, but that isn't a big deal.
Stay tuned!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
WOOOO HOOOOOOOOO
Count me in on this one too.....
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
(Still pluggin' away on the 2N2/15 when it isn't too hot to solder!!)
NJQRP #329
FPQRP #-347
SOC #499
FISTS # Pending
GACW #622
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.comJim,
Hello again. I was checking out the schematics for the 2N2/15 and saw
that you had incorporated an AGC circuit in the receiver. Is it
possible to add that circuit--I figure it is possible, but is it
desirable-- to the 2N2/40? If it is, would it be added after the IF amp
and before the audio preamp? Thank you and
73,
Kevin, KC8SFJ
|================================================|
| QRP-L #2366 - member since October/2001 |
| QRP-ARCI #11248 - member since May/2002 |
| FISTS #9293 - member since July/2002 |
| HR - member since September/1965 |
|================================================|
AdverseYaw@twmi.rr.com <-- My email address
AdverseYaw@bigfoot.com <-- My forwarding address
Quote of the day--
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent
revolution inevitable - J.F. Kennedy
Gang,
I will be operating my 2N2/40 from our cabin in Grayling. I am trying
out a new antenna I have cobbled together. It is the K4VX linear loaded
dipole from last month's QST. I should have it up by 1500Z tomorrow, it
is together just not raised yet. Tonight (around 0200Z) I will be using
my N5FC notebook antenna <
http://www.io.com/~n5fc/notebk_ant.htm > to
see how it works. I will be around 7.040 putting out a monumental 2W
signal if anyone wants to QSO with me. Thanks and
73,
Kevin, KC8SFJ/8
|================================================|
| QRP-L #2366 - member since October/2001 |
| QRP-ARCI #11248 - member since May/2002 |
| FISTS #9293 - member since July/2002 |
| HR - member since September/1965 |
|================================================|
AdverseYaw@twmi.rr.com <-- My email address
AdverseYaw@bigfoot.com <-- My forwarding address
Quote of the day--
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent
revolution inevitable - J.F. Kennedy
Hi gang. I am trying to trouble shoot my amplifier based on Wayne's
design, and was trying out my 2N2-40 rig, when I suddenly found that
I was getting NO output at all from my 2N2-40 rig to the amp.
No movement of my meter. I usually put out between 1.5 and 2 watts. I
MAY have left my old J-38 key on for a few moments longer when I
found that it was closed for a while when I was looking for my
headphones. (The little switch that grounds the key. J-38 users you
know what I mean)
Could I have "blown" my finals? I have a probe that supposedly
measures Volts RMS. It is a design based on N5FC's doing that puts a
probe in a pen case. Cool! Anyway..here are the numbers..
(based on Jim Kortge's article in QRPp Winter 1998)
collector Q17 7.26 V RMS
Toroid #14 (T14), #4 1.385V RMS
Collectors Q18-20 (arrgh!) 6.4mV RMS
Obviously a HUGH dropoff from the collectors of my "finals"....
(sigh) I "blew" 'em, didn't I????
I couldn't find the neat voltage chart on the 'net, the link I had
was inaccessible now. Am I looking at replacing the MASSIVE 2N2222
resistor finals, and did the amp somehow "cause" this to perhaps
happen, or was it leaving the key "on" for longer than usual??
Thanks for input
Tom
KC0GXX
BTW, I REALLY like this rig!---HELP!!!! :)
|
2222|2221|2002-09-03 22:16:06|john|Re: Problems with 2N2-40 rig RMS Voltages|Tom,
I blew my finals keying the rig into nothing (thought it was connected,
called CQ and everything - duh), don't feel bad. Do you need more metal
2n2222's? I've got a few I can send you if you do.
73,
John, N1QO
china_clipper2001 wrote:
> Hi gang. I am trying to trouble shoot my amplifier based on Wayne's
> design, and was trying out my 2N2-40 rig, when I suddenly found that
> I was getting NO output at all from my 2N2-40 rig to the amp.
>
> No movement of my meter. I usually put out between 1.5 and 2 watts. I
> MAY have left my old J-38 key on for a few moments longer when I
> found that it was closed for a while when I was looking for my
> headphones. (The little switch that grounds the key. J-38 users you
> know what I mean)
>
> Could I have "blown" my finals? I have a probe that supposedly
> measures Volts RMS. It is a design based on N5FC's doing that puts a
> probe in a pen case. Cool! Anyway..here are the numbers..
>
> (based on Jim Kortge's article in QRPp Winter 1998)
>
> collector Q17 7.26 V RMS
> Toroid #14 (T14), #4 1.385V RMS
> Collectors Q18-20 (arrgh!) 6.4mV RMS
>
> Obviously a HUGH dropoff from the collectors of my "finals"....
> (sigh) I "blew" 'em, didn't I????
>
> I couldn't find the neat voltage chart on the 'net, the link I had
> was inaccessible now. Am I looking at replacing the MASSIVE 2N2222
> resistor finals, and did the amp somehow "cause" this to perhaps
> happen, or was it leaving the key "on" for longer than usual??
> Thanks for input
> Tom
> KC0GXX
> BTW, I REALLY like this rig!---HELP!!!! :)
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comCheck the SWR protection diode D24 to see if it fried or not. It is a
1N4752A and if it did fail and you don't have any spares, let me know
and you can send me a SASE to my address on QRZ.com and I can send you a
couple.
72 es oo
Dennis - WB0WAO
NJQRP #329
FPQRP #-347
SOC #499
FISTS # 9299
GACW #622
ARS #1363
|
2224|2221|2002-09-04 12:18:55|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Problems with 2N2-40 rig RMS Voltages|At 02:09 AM 9/4/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi gang. I am trying to trouble shoot my amplifier based on Wayne's
>design, and was trying out my 2N2-40 rig, when I suddenly found that
>I was getting NO output at all from my 2N2-40 rig to the amp.
>
>No movement of my meter. I usually put out between 1.5 and 2 watts. I
>MAY have left my old J-38 key on for a few moments longer when I
>found that it was closed for a while when I was looking for my
>headphones. (The little switch that grounds the key. J-38 users you
>know what I mean)
>
>Could I have "blown" my finals? I have a probe that supposedly
>measures Volts RMS. It is a design based on N5FC's doing that puts a
>probe in a pen case. Cool! Anyway..here are the numbers..
>
>(based on Jim Kortge's article in QRPp Winter 1998)
>
>collector Q17 7.26 V RMS
>Toroid #14 (T14), #4 1.385V RMS
>Collectors Q18-20 (arrgh!) 6.4mV RMS
I'd say that the finals are toast. Do you have the Zener installed
across the collectors set as shown in the latest schematics on Yahoo?
That should minimize frying the finals again.
>Obviously a HUGH dropoff from the collectors of my "finals"....
>(sigh) I "blew" 'em, didn't I????
Roger!!!!!
>I couldn't find the neat voltage chart on the 'net, the link I had
>was inaccessible now. Am I looking at replacing the MASSIVE 2N2222
>resistor finals, and did the amp somehow "cause" this to perhaps
>happen, or was it leaving the key "on" for longer than usual??
Don't know the answer to your question, as I don't know what the input
impedance of the amplifier. If it is around 50 ohms, plus or minus 25
ohms, the 2N2/40 should be happy.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....I've blown the finals in my rig at least 6 times. That's when
I decided the Zener was needed. Got tired of soldering those puppies
in.
Done that several times. The 2N2222 bipolars are very sensitive to high
SWR and will burn rather easily. I've got a 36V zener in there and I can
still toast the buggers into high SWR.
Also, make sure you aren't driving them into saturation 'cuz that will
pop 'em too. Start at minimum drive and bring it up carefully with the
drive trim-pot until about 15 volts peak (or whatever that is RMS) at
the PA collectors. Higher voltages are risky. Don't go beyond the point
where the collector voltage tops out.
Just did the Spartan Sprint with the 2N2/40. What a
blast....figuratively speaking of course.
72
Arth W6AGS
|
2226|2226|2002-09-07 11:44:21|tim_h39|2n2/40 low vfo output|Hello group,
I was wondering if someone could point me in the direction of fixing
a low output from my vfo board. I'm getting about .4 volts off of the
Rx VFO pad through T6. I have measured the inductance of T6 and it
apears very close to the referenced inductance for this coil. I get a
strong signal from this board into my pcr1000 that is about 3 feet
away.
I am building each stage seperate (on a seperate board of the proper
size) then the finished project will be mounted together, has anyone
else approached this project in this manor?
Also the VFO frequency falls above the required frequency, mine is
about 2.55 to 2.72 MHz. I think I need to play with the windings on
L1 does that sound correct?
All my transistor voltages are fairly close to the voltage charts
that I have gotten from the net and I'm powering the project with a
good solid 13.8 volt supply.
Anyone have any ideas as to what I should be looking for to get my
VFO running proper.
T.I.A.
Tim NM8Y
|
2227|2226|2002-09-07 12:11:37|Kevin M., KC8SFJ|Re: 2n2/40 low vfo output|> Hello group,
Hello Tim,
> I was wondering if someone could point me in the direction of
> fixing a low output from my vfo board.
With the vfo running, try placing a 200pf cap across T5, this in
addition to any you already have across T6 (this should be C12 ~330pf).
Watching the output on a scope, you should see it go up or down. This
is to tune the output of T5 which is important for getting the most
voltage out. If it goes up, try adding more. If it goes down, use a
smaller cap. These should be NP0 caps.
> I'm getting about .4 volts off of the
> Rx VFO pad through T6. I have measured the inductance of T6 and it >
apears very close to the referenced inductance for this coil. I get a
> strong signal from this board into my pcr1000 that is about 3 feet
> away.
Do you mean T5, the output from the VFO?
> I am building each stage seperate (on a seperate board of the proper
> size) then the finished project will be mounted together, has anyone
> else approached this project in this manor?
There is another gentleman who used this approach. He built each board
seperately and then joined them together on a plywood substrate I
believe. Search the list for his posts. I believe he also had some
pictures in the Files or Pictures section.
> Also the VFO frequency falls above the required frequency, mine is
> about 2.55 to 2.72 MHz. I think I need to play with the windings on
> L1 does that sound correct?
If it is above the required frequency (mine runs from 2.108 to 2.190 for
a range of 7.024 to 7.106) you will need to add turns to L1 to bring the
frequency down.
> All my transistor voltages are fairly close to the voltage charts
> that I have gotten from the net and I'm powering the project with a
> good solid 13.8 volt supply.
>
> Anyone have any ideas as to what I should be looking for to get my
> VFO running proper.
>
> T.I.A.
>
> Tim NM8Y
>
Hope this helps. Also ,Jim will hopefully post a response to show you
where I went wrong in my explanation.
73/72 - Kevin, KC8SFJ
Hi Kevin,
Thanks for the fast reply...
The board that contains T5 has not been constructed as of yet, I was just in the testing phase of building board #2 (VFO) and was taking the measurments off of secondary side of of T6 at the pad where "W8" goes. According to the artical I should have about 3 volts peak to peak. Using my scope and an RF probe with my digital VOM I can get nowhere near that value. I just know it's somthing that I have screwed up, but when I built this board I measured all of the components to make sure that they were good and the schematic is pretty much straight forward, I just can't seem to find where I went wrong.
I'll just keep looking until I do, I guess....
Thanks again for the ideas.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin M., KC8SFJ
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2/40 low vfo output
> Hello group,
Hello Tim,
> I was wondering if someone could point me in the direction of
> fixing a low output from my vfo board.
With the vfo running, try placing a 200pf cap across T5, this in
addition to any you already have across T6 (this should be C12 ~330pf).
Watching the output on a scope, you should see it go up or down. This
is to tune the output of T5 which is important for getting the most
voltage out. If it goes up, try adding more. If it goes down, use a
smaller cap. These should be NP0 caps.
> I'm getting about .4 volts off of the
> Rx VFO pad through T6. I have measured the inductance of T6 and it >
apears very close to the referenced inductance for this coil. I get a
> strong signal from this board into my pcr1000 that is about 3 feet
> away.
Do you mean T5, the output from the VFO?
> I am building each stage seperate (on a seperate board of the proper
> size) then the finished project will be mounted together, has anyone
> else approached this project in this manor?
There is another gentleman who used this approach. He built each board
seperately and then joined them together on a plywood substrate I
believe. Search the list for his posts. I believe he also had some
pictures in the Files or Pictures section.
> Also the VFO frequency falls above the required frequency, mine is
> about 2.55 to 2.72 MHz. I think I need to play with the windings on
> L1 does that sound correct?
If it is above the required frequency (mine runs from 2.108 to 2.190 for
a range of 7.024 to 7.106) you will need to add turns to L1 to bring the
frequency down.
> All my transistor voltages are fairly close to the voltage charts
> that I have gotten from the net and I'm powering the project with a
> good solid 13.8 volt supply.
>
> Anyone have any ideas as to what I should be looking for to get my
> VFO running proper.
>
> T.I.A.
>
> Tim NM8Y
>
Hope this helps. Also ,Jim will hopefully post a response to show you
where I went wrong in my explanation.
73/72 - Kevin, KC8SFJ
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Tim,
I may be wrong but on my schematic T5 is the output of the VFO. T6 is
11:4:1 transformer for the RF amp. If T6 is the output of the VFO on
your board, that is what I meant.
Sorry for the confusion. I am using the 2N2/40+ schematic dated
10/31/2001.
73/72 - Kevin, KC8SFJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Herron"
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2/40 low vfo output
> Hi Kevin,
>
> Thanks for the fast reply...
>
> The board that contains T5 has not been constructed as of yet, I was
just in the testing phase of building board #2 (VFO) and was taking the
measurments off of secondary side of of T6 at the pad where "W8" goes.
According to the artical I should have about 3 volts peak to peak. Using
my scope and an RF probe with my digital VOM I can get nowhere near that
value. I just know it's somthing that I have screwed up, but when I
built this board I measured all of the components to make sure that they
were good and the schematic is pretty much straight forward, I just
can't seem to find where I went wrong.
>
> I'll just keep looking until I do, I guess....
>
> Thanks again for the ideas.
> Tim
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kevin M., KC8SFJ
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 12:11 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2/40 low vfo output
>
>
>
> > Hello group,
> Hello Tim,
>
> > I was wondering if someone could point me in the direction of
> > fixing a low output from my vfo board.
>
> With the vfo running, try placing a 200pf cap across T5, this in
> addition to any you already have across T6 (this should be C12
~330pf).
> Watching the output on a scope, you should see it go up or down.
This
> is to tune the output of T5 which is important for getting the most
> voltage out. If it goes up, try adding more. If it goes down, use a
> smaller cap. These should be NP0 caps.
>
> > I'm getting about .4 volts off of the
> > Rx VFO pad through T6. I have measured the inductance of T6 and it
>
> apears very close to the referenced inductance for this coil. I get
a
> > strong signal from this board into my pcr1000 that is about 3 feet
> > away.
> Do you mean T5, the output from the VFO?
>
>
> > I am building each stage seperate (on a seperate board of the
proper
> > size) then the finished project will be mounted together, has
anyone
> > else approached this project in this manor?
> There is another gentleman who used this approach. He built each
board
> seperately and then joined them together on a plywood substrate I
> believe. Search the list for his posts. I believe he also had some
> pictures in the Files or Pictures section.
>
>
> > Also the VFO frequency falls above the required frequency, mine
is
> > about 2.55 to 2.72 MHz. I think I need to play with the windings
on
> > L1 does that sound correct?
>
> If it is above the required frequency (mine runs from 2.108 to 2.190
for
> a range of 7.024 to 7.106) you will need to add turns to L1 to bring
the
> frequency down.
>
>
> > All my transistor voltages are fairly close to the voltage charts
> > that I have gotten from the net and I'm powering the project with
a
> > good solid 13.8 volt supply.
> >
> > Anyone have any ideas as to what I should be looking for to get my
> > VFO running proper.
> >
> > T.I.A.
> >
> > Tim NM8Y
> >
>
> Hope this helps. Also ,Jim will hopefully post a response to show
you
> where I went wrong in my explanation.
>
> 73/72 - Kevin, KC8SFJ
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
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>
>
That answered that..... I'm behind times, I just have the first
2n2/40 kit not the 2n2/40+. Figured I would get this up and running
and then maybe look into the 2n2/40+.
Thanks anyway Kevin,
Tim
-- In 2n2-40@y..., "Kevin M., KC8SFJ"
wrote:
> Tim,
> I may be wrong but on my schematic T5 is the output of the VFO. T6
is
> 11:4:1 transformer for the RF amp. If T6 is the output of the VFO
on
> your board, that is what I meant.
> Sorry for the confusion. I am using the 2N2/40+ schematic dated
> 10/31/2001.
> 73/72 - Kevin, KC8SFJ
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Herron"
> To: <2n2-40@y...>
> Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 12:21 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2/40 low vfo output
>
>
> > Hi Kevin,
> >
> > Thanks for the fast reply...
> >
> > The board that contains T5 has not been constructed as of yet, I
was
> just in the testing phase of building board #2 (VFO) and was taking
the
> measurments off of secondary side of of T6 at the pad where "W8"
goes.
> According to the artical I should have about 3 volts peak to peak.
Using
> my scope and an RF probe with my digital VOM I can get nowhere near
that
> value. I just know it's somthing that I have screwed up, but when I
> built this board I measured all of the components to make sure that
they
> were good and the schematic is pretty much straight forward, I just
> can't seem to find where I went wrong.
> >
> > I'll just keep looking until I do, I guess....
> >
> > Thanks again for the ideas.
> > Tim
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Kevin M., KC8SFJ
> > To: 2n2-40@y...
> > Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 12:11 PM
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2/40 low vfo output
> >
> >
> >
> > > Hello group,
> > Hello Tim,
> >
> > > I was wondering if someone could point me in the direction of
> > > fixing a low output from my vfo board.
> >
> > With the vfo running, try placing a 200pf cap across T5, this in
> > addition to any you already have across T6 (this should be C12
> ~330pf).
> > Watching the output on a scope, you should see it go up or down.
> This
> > is to tune the output of T5 which is important for getting the
most
> > voltage out. If it goes up, try adding more. If it goes down,
use a
> > smaller cap. These should be NP0 caps.
> >
> > > I'm getting about .4 volts off of the
> > > Rx VFO pad through T6. I have measured the inductance of T6
and it
> >
> > apears very close to the referenced inductance for this coil. I
get
> a
> > > strong signal from this board into my pcr1000 that is about 3
feet
> > > away.
> > Do you mean T5, the output from the VFO?
> >
> >
> > > I am building each stage seperate (on a seperate board of the
> proper
> > > size) then the finished project will be mounted together, has
> anyone
> > > else approached this project in this manor?
> > There is another gentleman who used this approach. He built
each
> board
> > seperately and then joined them together on a plywood substrate
I
> > believe. Search the list for his posts. I believe he also had
some
> > pictures in the Files or Pictures section.
> >
> >
> > > Also the VFO frequency falls above the required frequency,
mine
> is
> > > about 2.55 to 2.72 MHz. I think I need to play with the
windings
> on
> > > L1 does that sound correct?
> >
> > If it is above the required frequency (mine runs from 2.108 to
2.190
> for
> > a range of 7.024 to 7.106) you will need to add turns to L1 to
bring
> the
> > frequency down.
> >
> >
> > > All my transistor voltages are fairly close to the voltage
charts
> > > that I have gotten from the net and I'm powering the project
with
> a
> > > good solid 13.8 volt supply.
> > >
> > > Anyone have any ideas as to what I should be looking for to
get my
> > > VFO running proper.
> > >
> > > T.I.A.
> > >
> > > Tim NM8Y
> > >
> >
> > Hope this helps. Also ,Jim will hopefully post a response to
show
> you
> > where I went wrong in my explanation.
> >
> > 73/72 - Kevin, KC8SFJ
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> >
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Service.
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
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> >
> >
> >
Tim,
The solution should be the same. There weren't any changes to the VFO
over the upgrades to the 2N2.
73/72 - Kevin, KC8SFJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "tim_h39"
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 12:46 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2n2/40 low vfo output
> That answered that..... I'm behind times, I just have the first
> 2n2/40 kit not the 2n2/40+. Figured I would get this up and running
> and then maybe look into the 2n2/40+.
>
> Thanks anyway Kevin,
>
> Tim
>
>
>
>
>
> -- In 2n2-40@y..., "Kevin M., KC8SFJ" wrote:
> > Tim,
> > I may be wrong but on my schematic T5 is the output of the VFO. T6
> is
> > 11:4:1 transformer for the RF amp. If T6 is the output of the VFO
> on
> > your board, that is what I meant.
> > Sorry for the confusion. I am using the 2N2/40+ schematic dated
> > 10/31/2001.
> > 73/72 - Kevin, KC8SFJ
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tim Herron"
> > To: <2n2-40@y...>
> > Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 12:21 PM
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2/40 low vfo output
> >
> >
> > > Hi Kevin,
> > >
> > > Thanks for the fast reply...
> > >
> > > The board that contains T5 has not been constructed as of yet, I
> was
> > just in the testing phase of building board #2 (VFO) and was taking
> the
> > measurments off of secondary side of of T6 at the pad where "W8"
> goes.
> > According to the artical I should have about 3 volts peak to peak.
> Using
> > my scope and an RF probe with my digital VOM I can get nowhere near
> that
> > value. I just know it's somthing that I have screwed up, but when I
> > built this board I measured all of the components to make sure that
> they
> > were good and the schematic is pretty much straight forward, I just
> > can't seem to find where I went wrong.
> > >
> > > I'll just keep looking until I do, I guess....
> > >
> > > Thanks again for the ideas.
> > > Tim
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Kevin M., KC8SFJ
> > > To: 2n2-40@y...
> > > Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 12:11 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2/40 low vfo output
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hello group,
> > > Hello Tim,
> > >
> > > > I was wondering if someone could point me in the direction of
> > > > fixing a low output from my vfo board.
> > >
> > > With the vfo running, try placing a 200pf cap across T5, this in
> > > addition to any you already have across T6 (this should be C12
> > ~330pf).
> > > Watching the output on a scope, you should see it go up or down.
> > This
> > > is to tune the output of T5 which is important for getting the
> most
> > > voltage out. If it goes up, try adding more. If it goes down,
> use a
> > > smaller cap. These should be NP0 caps.
> > >
> > > > I'm getting about .4 volts off of the
> > > > Rx VFO pad through T6. I have measured the inductance of T6
> and it
> > >
> > > apears very close to the referenced inductance for this coil. I
> get
> > a
> > > > strong signal from this board into my pcr1000 that is about 3
> feet
> > > > away.
> > > Do you mean T5, the output from the VFO?
> > >
> > >
> > > > I am building each stage seperate (on a seperate board of the
> > proper
> > > > size) then the finished project will be mounted together, has
> > anyone
> > > > else approached this project in this manor?
> > > There is another gentleman who used this approach. He built
> each
> > board
> > > seperately and then joined them together on a plywood substrate
> I
> > > believe. Search the list for his posts. I believe he also had
> some
> > > pictures in the Files or Pictures section.
> > >
> > >
> > > > Also the VFO frequency falls above the required frequency,
> mine
> > is
> > > > about 2.55 to 2.72 MHz. I think I need to play with the
> windings
> > on
> > > > L1 does that sound correct?
> > >
> > > If it is above the required frequency (mine runs from 2.108 to
> 2.190
> > for
> > > a range of 7.024 to 7.106) you will need to add turns to L1 to
> bring
> > the
> > > frequency down.
> > >
> > >
> > > > All my transistor voltages are fairly close to the voltage
> charts
> > > > that I have gotten from the net and I'm powering the project
> with
> > a
> > > > good solid 13.8 volt supply.
> > > >
> > > > Anyone have any ideas as to what I should be looking for to
> get my
> > > > VFO running proper.
> > > >
> > > > T.I.A.
> > > >
> > > > Tim NM8Y
> > > >
> > >
> > > Hope this helps. Also ,Jim will hopefully post a response to
> show
> > you
> > > where I went wrong in my explanation.
> > >
> > > 73/72 - Kevin, KC8SFJ
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
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> > month.
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> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
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>
>
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> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Kevin,
I'm using the 1998 winter QRPp artical that came with the original
kit, in the artical during the testing phase of the VFO it tells me
to check the voltage on the secondary of T6 and that it should be
around 3 volts P to P. The secondary of T6 goes to the FE (Front End)
via "W8" and feeds a signal to the Double Balanced Mixer through T5.
I hope this helps.
-- In 2n2-40@y..., "Kevin M., KC8SFJ"
wrote:
> Tim,
> The solution should be the same. There weren't any changes to the
VFO
> over the upgrades to the 2N2.
> 73/72 - Kevin, KC8SFJ
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "tim_h39"
> To: <2n2-40@y...>
> Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 12:46 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2n2/40 low vfo output
>
>
> > That answered that..... I'm behind times, I just have the first
> > 2n2/40 kit not the 2n2/40+. Figured I would get this up and
running
> > and then maybe look into the 2n2/40+.
> >
> > Thanks anyway Kevin,
> >
> > Tim
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -- In 2n2-40@y..., "Kevin M., KC8SFJ" wrote:
> > > Tim,
> > > I may be wrong but on my schematic T5 is the output of the
VFO. T6
> > is
> > > 11:4:1 transformer for the RF amp. If T6 is the output of the
VFO
> > on
> > > your board, that is what I meant.
> > > Sorry for the confusion. I am using the 2N2/40+ schematic dated
> > > 10/31/2001.
> > > 73/72 - Kevin, KC8SFJ
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Tim Herron"
> > > To: <2n2-40@y...>
> > > Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 12:21 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2/40 low vfo output
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hi Kevin,
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the fast reply...
> > > >
> > > > The board that contains T5 has not been constructed as of
yet, I
> > was
> > > just in the testing phase of building board #2 (VFO) and was
taking
> > the
> > > measurments off of secondary side of of T6 at the pad where "W8"
> > goes.
> > > According to the artical I should have about 3 volts peak to
peak.
> > Using
> > > my scope and an RF probe with my digital VOM I can get nowhere
near
> > that
> > > value. I just know it's somthing that I have screwed up, but
when I
> > > built this board I measured all of the components to make sure
that
> > they
> > > were good and the schematic is pretty much straight forward, I
just
> > > can't seem to find where I went wrong.
> > > >
> > > > I'll just keep looking until I do, I guess....
> > > >
> > > > Thanks again for the ideas.
> > > > Tim
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Kevin M., KC8SFJ
> > > > To: 2n2-40@y...
> > > > Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 12:11 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2/40 low vfo output
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Hello group,
> > > > Hello Tim,
> > > >
> > > > > I was wondering if someone could point me in the
direction of
> > > > > fixing a low output from my vfo board.
> > > >
> > > > With the vfo running, try placing a 200pf cap across T5,
this in
> > > > addition to any you already have across T6 (this should be
C12
> > > ~330pf).
> > > > Watching the output on a scope, you should see it go up or
down.
> > > This
> > > > is to tune the output of T5 which is important for getting
the
> > most
> > > > voltage out. If it goes up, try adding more. If it goes
down,
> > use a
> > > > smaller cap. These should be NP0 caps.
> > > >
> > > > > I'm getting about .4 volts off of the
> > > > > Rx VFO pad through T6. I have measured the inductance of
T6
> > and it
> > > >
> > > > apears very close to the referenced inductance for this
coil. I
> > get
> > > a
> > > > > strong signal from this board into my pcr1000 that is
about 3
> > feet
> > > > > away.
> > > > Do you mean T5, the output from the VFO?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I am building each stage seperate (on a seperate board
of the
> > > proper
> > > > > size) then the finished project will be mounted together,
has
> > > anyone
> > > > > else approached this project in this manor?
> > > > There is another gentleman who used this approach. He built
> > each
> > > board
> > > > seperately and then joined them together on a plywood
substrate
> > I
> > > > believe. Search the list for his posts. I believe he also
had
> > some
> > > > pictures in the Files or Pictures section.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Also the VFO frequency falls above the required
frequency,
> > mine
> > > is
> > > > > about 2.55 to 2.72 MHz. I think I need to play with the
> > windings
> > > on
> > > > > L1 does that sound correct?
> > > >
> > > > If it is above the required frequency (mine runs from 2.108
to
> > 2.190
> > > for
> > > > a range of 7.024 to 7.106) you will need to add turns to L1
to
> > bring
> > > the
> > > > frequency down.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > All my transistor voltages are fairly close to the voltage
> > charts
> > > > > that I have gotten from the net and I'm powering the
project
> > with
> > > a
> > > > > good solid 13.8 volt supply.
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyone have any ideas as to what I should be looking for
to
> > get my
> > > > > VFO running proper.
> > > > >
> > > > > T.I.A.
> > > > >
> > > > > Tim NM8Y
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hope this helps. Also ,Jim will hopefully post a response
to
> > show
> > > you
> > > > where I went wrong in my explanation.
> > > >
> > > > 73/72 - Kevin, KC8SFJ
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@y...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> > Service.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
> > > Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> > > > Looking for a more powerful website? Try GeoCities for $8.95
per
> > > month.
> > > > Register your domain name (http://your-name.com). More
storage! No
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----
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> >
> >
Hello Group,
This will seem like a strange request, it seems to defeat the purpose
of homebrewing.
I would like to know if there is anyone in the group that would be
kind enough to check out my 2n2/40 VFO. I have it built all by itself
on a seperate piece of pc board and I will pay shipping cost both
ways, if someone would please check the construction. I just can not
get the approx. 3 volts peak to peak at the secondary unloaded output
of T6. I can not get the vfo to tune other frequencies now, it stays
on the same frequency reguardless of where you turn the pot and this
just happened while I was trying to see if I could figure the output
problem of T6.
I'm still using the QRPp winter artical to build with not the 2n2/40+
schematics. I can send along the artical with the board if needed. I
feel pretty stupid asking this, but it is better than the alternitive
for me....which is the hammer!!!! I guess there is something to be
said about patience after all.
Thanks to whom may replay,
Reguards
Tim
|
2234|2233|2002-09-08 14:02:19|TC Dufresne|Re: 2n2/40 VFO|Tim:
Take heed! The thing WILL work, sometines it just takes time to "get 'er
right". You DO have the corrections that Jim mentioned, don't you? I built
the rig like you, ie, according to the articler in QRPp. Here's the sheet of
errata Jim printed to help ya..
http://www.qsl.net/k8iqy/2n2errs.html Give it another shot. Are you using NPO capacitors where required?
Are all connections soldered correctly?
watch the connections of all the transistors, its easy to get 'em mixed up.
The hardest part for me when I built the rig were the transformers/torroids
and the connections. If you do NOT have the latest corrections, the thing
will just not work.
Are the connections to D7 correct?
The space around TC4 gets pretty congested. Make sure all conections are
properly soldered.
Be persistant, do NOT give up! Are your hookups correct when you test the
VFO?
It was very exciting when I built the VFO and heard it for the first time
on my old Radio Shack DX398. There it was, loud as you please, right around
2.085mHz to 2.185mHZ.
I have had more fun building and making contacts with this rig than ANY
other project. Jim Kortge, the designer, was a wonderful resource to me, and
should be able to help you figure out the problem and get ya going.
Good luck!
Tom
KC0GXX
Hello Tim,
> This will seem like a strange request, it seems to defeat the purpose
> of homebrewing.
>
> I would like to know if there is anyone in the group that would be
> kind enough to check out my 2n2/40 VFO. I have it built all by itself
> on a seperate piece of pc board and I will pay shipping cost both
> ways, if someone would please check the construction.
Before you ship the thing off, check to make sure that you used
the proper toroid in your VFO. Also, there is the possibility
that the toroid you used is bad. Before you mail the thing off,
I'd replace the toroid, wind up a new one, and give that a shot.
Again, make absolutely sure you're using the proper toroid for
this application.
73,
Randall
AB5NI
Tim,
My suggestion is to take another shot at the VFO yourself. I know it's
discouraging, we've all been there, staring at what appears to be a
correct layout that doesn't work. Check the values of your resistors and
caps again. Make sure you've got the EBC of the 2n2222's going to
correct places. Pick a part of the schematic and follow it through, end
to end against your work.
That said, I would be glad to take a look at it for you. No guarantees,
I'm not an expert (my finished rig ended up getting sent to Jim for his
expert fixes), but sometimes a second set of eyes does help. I can say
that I built the VFO with few problems and I have the equipment here to
test it. If you reach the end of the line and want to give up, let me know.
Finally; build from the updated schematics. Jim made many changes to the
design and it's what most of us who built recently used. We will be
better able to help you since the part numbers changed as well as the
design.
73,
John, N1QO
tim_h39 wrote:
> Hello Group,
>
> This will seem like a strange request, it seems to defeat the purpose
> of homebrewing.
>
> I would like to know if there is anyone in the group that would be
> kind enough to check out my 2n2/40 VFO. I have it built all by itself
> on a seperate piece of pc board and I will pay shipping cost both
> ways, if someone would please check the construction. I just can not
> get the approx. 3 volts peak to peak at the secondary unloaded output
> of T6. I can not get the vfo to tune other frequencies now, it stays
> on the same frequency reguardless of where you turn the pot and this
> just happened while I was trying to see if I could figure the output
> problem of T6.
>
> I'm still using the QRPp winter artical to build with not the 2n2/40+
> schematics. I can send along the artical with the board if needed. I
> feel pretty stupid asking this, but it is better than the alternitive
> for me....which is the hammer!!!! I guess there is something to be
> said about patience after all.
>
> Thanks to whom may replay,
>
> Reguards
>
> Tim
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com> Finally; build from the updated schematics. Jim made many changes to the
> design and it's what most of us who built recently used.
John offers some really good advice. Been there, done that. My problems
went way down when I started working only from the schematic and the
pictures on the 2N2-40 web site.
It is a great radio!
73 de Lee, km4yy
Thanks for all the replies and offers of help, as most of you have
suggested I will take yet another look at this circut, being on my
midnight shift this week and very little sleep it's probably a good
idea to put it off until at least a little time off of work.
Thanks for the words of encouragement !!!!
Tim
|
2239|2239|2002-09-09 10:46:23|tim_h39|2n2/40+|Hello All,
Well my interest in the 2n2/40 and the VFO probelm that I have been
having has led me to download the updated plans for the 2n2/40+. I
might as well build the updated version.... :-)
The question that I have is this, in the parts list item #19- Trimmer
cap 11-70Pf, at dan's small parts I have found 2.5-70 caps and will
asume that these will work fine, they are .70 each. Now on to the
question on the list, item #84 trimmers TC4 & TC10 call for 8-50Pf
caps, will the same 2.5-70 work ok, or are there some tolerences I
should be looking out for.
Thanks for any input....
Tim
|
2240|2239|2002-09-09 21:12:44|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2n2/40+|At 02:46 PM 9/9/02 +0000, Tim wrote:
>Hello All,
>
>Well my interest in the 2n2/40 and the VFO probelm that I have been
>having has led me to download the updated plans for the 2n2/40+. I
>might as well build the updated version.... :-)
Agreed. The version posted on the 2N2-40 page at Yahoo will build
into a better rig than the original. It's called "progress"! :-)
>The question that I have is this, in the parts list item #19- Trimmer
>cap 11-70Pf, at dan's small parts I have found 2.5-70 caps and will
>asume that these will work fine, they are .70 each.
Yes, those should be fine.
> Now on to the
>question on the list, item #84 trimmers TC4 & TC10 call for 8-50Pf
>caps, will the same 2.5-70 work ok,
Yes, don't worry about the wider range.
> or are there some tolerences I
>should be looking out for.
The lower the temperature coefficient of the trimmers, the better for
stability. But most low cost trimmers are not very good, so don't worry
about it.
>Thanks for any input....
You are welcome. Now to go back and try to help with earlier emails
that came in while I was off cycling.
72 and welcome to the 2N2-40 builders group Tim,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:44 PM 9/7/02 +0000, Tim NM8Y wrote:
>Hello group,
>
>I was wondering if someone could point me in the direction of fixing
>a low output from my vfo board. I'm getting about .4 volts off of the
>Rx VFO pad through T6.
It the .4 volts measured with an r.f. probe, or p-p measured with
a suitable scope?
> I have measured the inductance of T6 and it
>apears very close to the referenced inductance for this coil.
Good......
> I get a
>strong signal from this board into my pcr1000 that is about 3 feet
>away.
Also good........
My guess is that you have too much or too little capacitance across
the primary of the VFO output transformer to resonate it. The
390pF value suggested is in the ballpark, but you may have to go
up or down from that as much as 47pF, maybe more to get it peaked.
You want it to peak in the center of the VFO range, when the VFO
is setup to have the correct range.
> I am building each stage seperate (on a seperate board of the proper
>size) then the finished project will be mounted together, has anyone
>else approached this project in this manor?
I think others on the list have built their rigs in modular
pieces, with each major section on a separate board. I've not
heard how that all work out though, so can't comment on it further.
> Also the VFO frequency falls above the required frequency, mine is
>about 2.55 to 2.72 MHz. I think I need to play with the windings on
>L1 does that sound correct?
Yes, or add some addition capacitance in parallel with C8/C13/TC4
from the Yahoo posted schematic. Also, where is TC4 adjusted? If
it is a minimum capacitance, the VFO frequency will come down farther
as it is adjusted. Are you using the T50-7 toroid recommended? If
not, would you like one?
As a last resort, assuming you have the required 44 turns on the VFO
inductor core, is to add a few more turns, and then start take them
off one at a time until the VFO range is approximately correct.
>All my transistor voltages are fairly close to the voltage charts
>that I have gotten from the net and I'm powering the project with a
>good solid 13.8 volt supply.
Good. That suggests that the rest of the circuitry is built correctly.
>Anyone have any ideas as to what I should be looking for to get my
>VFO running proper.
See above........
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:40 PM 9/8/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello Group,
>
>This will seem like a strange request, it seems to defeat the purpose
>of homebrewing.
>
>I would like to know if there is anyone in the group that would be
>kind enough to check out my 2n2/40 VFO. I have it built all by itself
>on a seperate piece of pc board and I will pay shipping cost both
>ways, if someone would please check the construction. I just can not
>get the approx. 3 volts peak to peak at the secondary unloaded output
>of T6. I can not get the vfo to tune other frequencies now, it stays
>on the same frequency reguardless of where you turn the pot and this
>just happened while I was trying to see if I could figure the output
>problem of T6.
>
>I'm still using the QRPp winter artical to build with not the 2n2/40+
>schematics. I can send along the artical with the board if needed. I
>feel pretty stupid asking this, but it is better than the alternitive
>for me....which is the hammer!!!! I guess there is something to be
>said about patience after all.
>
>Thanks to whom may replay,
>
>Reguards
>
>Tim
Tim,
Send it to me at: PO Box 108
Fenton, MI 48430
and I'll get it working for you. I've got a little bit of
experience with that rig. :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 03:44 PM 9/7/02 +0000, Tim NM8Y wrote:
>
> >Hello group,
> >
> >I was wondering if someone could point me in the direction of
fixing
> >a low output from my vfo board. I'm getting about .4 volts off of
the
> >Rx VFO pad through T6.
>
> It the .4 volts measured with an r.f. probe, or p-p measured with
> a suitable scope?
It was measured with a Heath 60Mhz Scope.
>
> > I have measured the inductance of T6 and it
> >apears very close to the referenced inductance for this coil.
>
> Good......
>
> > I get a
> >strong signal from this board into my pcr1000 that is about 3 feet
> >away.
>
> Also good........
>
> My guess is that you have too much or too little capacitance across
> the primary of the VFO output transformer to resonate it. The
> 390pF value suggested is in the ballpark, but you may have to go
> up or down from that as much as 47pF, maybe more to get it peaked.
> You want it to peak in the center of the VFO range, when the VFO
> is setup to have the correct range.
>
> > I am building each stage seperate (on a seperate board of the
proper
> >size) then the finished project will be mounted together, has
anyone
> >else approached this project in this manor?
>
> I think others on the list have built their rigs in modular
> pieces, with each major section on a separate board. I've not
> heard how that all work out though, so can't comment on it further.
>
> > Also the VFO frequency falls above the required frequency, mine
is
> >about 2.55 to 2.72 MHz. I think I need to play with the windings on
> >L1 does that sound correct?
>
> Yes, or add some addition capacitance in parallel with C8/C13/TC4
> from the Yahoo posted schematic. Also, where is TC4 adjusted?
It has been adjusted through it's entire range and checked with a
frequency counter to the best of my ability.
If
> it is a minimum capacitance, the VFO frequency will come down
farther
> as it is adjusted. Are you using the T50-7 toroid recommended? If
> not, would you like one?
Thanks for the offer Jim, I am using the T50-7.
>
> As a last resort, assuming you have the required 44 turns on the VFO
> inductor core, is to add a few more turns, and then start take them
> off one at a time until the VFO range is approximately correct.
I have went as high as 55 turns and the frequency has gotten much
closer...guess I had better check my capacitors!!!
>
> >All my transistor voltages are fairly close to the voltage charts
> >that I have gotten from the net and I'm powering the project with a
> >good solid 13.8 volt supply.
>
> Good. That suggests that the rest of the circuitry is built
correctly.
>
>
> >Anyone have any ideas as to what I should be looking for to get my
> >VFO running proper.
>
> See above........
Thanks for the replies Jim, I'm going to go ahead and build from the
updated 2n2/40+ schematics, then when I have problems again...you'll
here me holler like a mashed cat for help. :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
72,
Tim NM8Y (all thumbs)...--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 02:46 PM 9/9/02 +0000, Tim wrote:
>
> >Hello All,
> >
> >Well my interest in the 2n2/40 and the VFO probelm that I have been
> >having has led me to download the updated plans for the 2n2/40+. I
> >might as well build the updated version.... :-)
>
> Agreed. The version posted on the 2N2-40 page at Yahoo will build
> into a better rig than the original. It's called "progress"! :-)
>
>
> >The question that I have is this, in the parts list item #19-
Trimmer
> >cap 11-70Pf, at dan's small parts I have found 2.5-70 caps and will
> >asume that these will work fine, they are .70 each.
>
> Yes, those should be fine.
>
> > Now on to the
> >question on the list, item #84 trimmers TC4 & TC10 call for 8-50Pf
> >caps, will the same 2.5-70 work ok,
>
> Yes, don't worry about the wider range.
>
> > or are there some tolerences I
> >should be looking out for.
>
> The lower the temperature coefficient of the trimmers, the better
for
> stability. But most low cost trimmers are not very good, so don't
worry
> about it.
>
> >Thanks for any input....
>
> You are welcome. Now to go back and try to help with earlier emails
> that came in while I was off cycling.
>
> 72 and welcome to the 2N2-40 builders group Tim,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Thanks for the info Jim, I'm looking forward to building this project.--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 04:40 PM 9/8/02 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Hello Group,
> >
> >This will seem like a strange request, it seems to defeat the
purpose
> >of homebrewing.
> >
> >I would like to know if there is anyone in the group that would be
> >kind enough to check out my 2n2/40 VFO. I have it built all by
itself
> >on a seperate piece of pc board and I will pay shipping cost both
> >ways, if someone would please check the construction. I just can
not
> >get the approx. 3 volts peak to peak at the secondary unloaded
output
> >of T6. I can not get the vfo to tune other frequencies now, it
stays
> >on the same frequency reguardless of where you turn the pot and
this
> >just happened while I was trying to see if I could figure the
output
> >problem of T6.
> >
> >I'm still using the QRPp winter artical to build with not the
2n2/40+
> >schematics. I can send along the artical with the board if needed.
I
> >feel pretty stupid asking this, but it is better than the
alternitive
> >for me....which is the hammer!!!! I guess there is something to be
> >said about patience after all.
> >
> >Thanks to whom may replay,
> >
> >Reguards
> >
> >Tim
>
> Tim,
>
> Send it to me at: PO Box 108
> Fenton, MI 48430
>
> and I'll get it working for you. I've got a little bit of
> experience with that rig. :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
You have experience with this rig, why that's hard to believe... ;-)
Thanks so much for the offer Jim, I'm going to go with the updated
2n2/40+ I might as well at least start on the same page as everyone
else. If I run into problems and just can't figure them out myself,
I'll take you up on that kind offer.
Thanks again,
Tim, NM8YHello,
Please update my email address to
jimlarsen2002@alaska.net I will cease using the old one very soon.
Thank you.
Jim Larsen
Anchorage, Alaska
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Jim Larsen - AL7FS
wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Please update my email address to jimlarsen2002@a...
===============================================
This was not supposed to go to the list.
I have already taken care of it on yahoo but what the heck, now you
all know my new address. :-)
73, Jim
Jim Larsen, AL7FS
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.qsl.net/al7fs/
Jim Larsen - AL7FS wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> Please update my email address to jimlarsen2002@alaska.net
Could someone please tell me if there is a difference in the layout
of the board between the 2n2/40 (which I have) and the 2n2/40+ which
I want to build. If so can you direct me as to the site where I can
download the new layout....didn't find it on Jim's page, so I asume
it's the same layout, maybe with new parts.
Thanks,
72
Tim, NM8Y
|
2249|2249|2002-09-11 14:10:30|tim_h39|2n2/40+ layout|Geesh, if I would have bothered to look through the files here on
yahoo in the first place, I would have found what I was looking for.
Please ignore the previous post.
72,
Tim, NM8Y
|
2250|2250|2002-09-13 19:45:48|Delbert Long|Finally Finishing (RX at Least)!|I'm on the home stretch with the audio amp...what's the deal with the 0.082
uF capacitor? I found one of my caps with the right numbers (820) but too
many zeros if you know what I mean. Wouldn't a .1 uF work in there?
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. -
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.comAt 04:45 PM 9/13/02 -0700, you wrote:
>I'm on the home stretch with the audio amp...what's the deal with the 0.082
>uF capacitor? I found one of my caps with the right numbers (820) but too
>many zeros if you know what I mean. Wouldn't a .1 uF work in there?
Yes it would. You could also leave it out altogether, but then
there will be no peaking of the output transformer primary, and a
bit more wideband noise. The specified capacitor was the proper value
to resonate the primary of the transformer that I used at ~700 Hz.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I am sorry for the bandwidth but have been trying to contact Mike Malone
about the 2N2-40 but his worldlog...com account is bouncing messages as
over quota.
Mike, if you are still on the group please contact me off the list.
Thanks
Jim Pruitt
|
2253|2253|2002-09-15 15:33:44|john|She's a wigglin'!|Gang,
I finished my SMT VFO Fri night, but it wasn't working.
First off; trouble-shooting manhattan style SMT parts is hard! Darn
parts are tough to ID! The problems turned out to be my fault (of
course): forgot R4, used a 560ohm instead of a 5.6K for R3. I also
managed to short out Q1 - the Base and Emitter were shorted together.
The way I found these problems was using the latest schematics with the
DC voltages printed on them. I ignored the AC components of the VFO
(i.e. the caps) and followed the trail of DC. The glaring problem was
the incorrect R3 and missing R6. Even after fixing Q1 I was getting 6.7
volts on the base of Q1 - that pointed to R3 being the wrong value as
the DC voltage drop should have been much more. After that the voltage
was still high, that pointed me to the missing R4.
So now she wiggles, from about 2.035 - 2.140, abt 3v p2p. I just went
through the archives on the Yahoo site to remember how to adjust the
tuning range and will do it this afternoon. Jim mailed me some
replacemens for C10 and C11 as the ones I have in there are HUGE.
More as it happens.
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWay to go John!
73 de Lee, KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "john" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2002 3:32 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] She's a wigglin'!
> Gang,
>
> I finished my SMT VFO Fri night, but it wasn't working.
>
> First off; trouble-shooting manhattan style SMT parts is hard! Darn
> parts are tough to ID! The problems turned out to be my fault (of
> course): forgot R4, used a 560ohm instead of a 5.6K for R3. I also
> managed to short out Q1 - the Base and Emitter were shorted together.
>
> The way I found these problems was using the latest schematics with the
> DC voltages printed on them. I ignored the AC components of the VFO
> (i.e. the caps) and followed the trail of DC. The glaring problem was
> the incorrect R3 and missing R6. Even after fixing Q1 I was getting 6.7
> volts on the base of Q1 - that pointed to R3 being the wrong value as
> the DC voltage drop should have been much more. After that the voltage
> was still high, that pointed me to the missing R4.
>
> So now she wiggles, from about 2.035 - 2.140, abt 3v p2p. I just went
> through the archives on the Yahoo site to remember how to adjust the
> tuning range and will do it this afternoon. Jim mailed me some
> replacemens for C10 and C11 as the ones I have in there are HUGE.
>
> More as it happens.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Thanks Lee.
Got her right in the ballpark now, 2.085-2.180. Took a turn off L1, a
little fiddling with TC4 and I dropped C12 down a bit. I've got just
under 3v at the bottom, peaks around halfway to just above 3v and back
down under 3v near the top - can't get much better than that!
Built T4 before leaving for the evening and started looking at the
layout of the diodes in the dbm. I've got MMBD352LT1 dual hot carrier
diodes and getting 'em to lay in right should be interesting!
It's hard not to rush...
73,
John, N1QO
Lee Mairs (SAG) wrote:
> Way to go John!
> 73 de Lee, KM4YY
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "john" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2002 3:32 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] She's a wigglin'!
>
>
>
>>Gang,
>>
>>I finished my SMT VFO Fri night, but it wasn't working.
>>
>>First off; trouble-shooting manhattan style SMT parts is hard! Darn
>>parts are tough to ID! The problems turned out to be my fault (of
>>course): forgot R4, used a 560ohm instead of a 5.6K for R3. I also
>>managed to short out Q1 - the Base and Emitter were shorted together.
>>
>>The way I found these problems was using the latest schematics with the
>>DC voltages printed on them. I ignored the AC components of the VFO
>>(i.e. the caps) and followed the trail of DC. The glaring problem was
>>the incorrect R3 and missing R6. Even after fixing Q1 I was getting 6.7
>>volts on the base of Q1 - that pointed to R3 being the wrong value as
>>the DC voltage drop should have been much more. After that the voltage
>>was still high, that pointed me to the missing R4.
>>
>>So now she wiggles, from about 2.035 - 2.140, abt 3v p2p. I just went
>>through the archives on the Yahoo site to remember how to adjust the
>>tuning range and will do it this afternoon. Jim mailed me some
>>replacemens for C10 and C11 as the ones I have in there are HUGE.
>>
>>More as it happens.
>>
>>73,
>>
>>John, N1QO
>>--
>>John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
>>Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>>
>>
>>
>>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWell, it's about time! I finally got the receiver completed...fired it up,
and only heard a couple of weak signals (?) as I tuned through the
band...sat down and looked at the board...scratched the old noggin a while,
and then what to my wondering eyes should appear? A missed connection! The
output of the I.F. amp just hanging there...not hooked up to the Product
Detector at all! So I took care of that little problem, re-attached all the
alligator clips, and woolah! My eager ears filled up (well, not exactly
filled) with those wonderful CW notes, and my heart overflowing (not quite,
just wait for the TX to get done....
Just a couple of questions...I left out C37 (across the audio XFMR primary)
for now, and I notice that R40 is supposed to be chosen for "desired audio
output." I used the 2.2 Meg resistor called out on the schematic...has
anyone tried anything else?
Can I finish in time for the Fall QRP homebrewer Sprint? I certainly hope
so!
72, 73....
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.comWooohooo! ;)
R40 controls the volume of the sidetone, that's what that means. You'll
need that xmiter finished to notice any effect. What it does is leak a
little of your signal into the audio chain on key down.
73,
John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
>
> Well, it's about time! I finally got the receiver completed...fired it up,
> and only heard a couple of weak signals (?) as I tuned through the
> band...sat down and looked at the board...scratched the old noggin a while,
> and then what to my wondering eyes should appear? A missed connection! The
> output of the I.F. amp just hanging there...not hooked up to the Product
> Detector at all! So I took care of that little problem, re-attached all the
> alligator clips, and woolah! My eager ears filled up (well, not exactly
> filled) with those wonderful CW notes, and my heart overflowing (not quite,
> just wait for the TX to get done....
>
> Just a couple of questions...I left out C37 (across the audio XFMR primary)
> for now, and I notice that R40 is supposed to be chosen for "desired audio
> output." I used the 2.2 Meg resistor called out on the schematic...has
> anyone tried anything else?
>
> Can I finish in time for the Fall QRP homebrewer Sprint? I certainly hope
> so!
>
> 72, 73....
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comDelbert -
The C37 capacitor is supposed to peak the audio amplifier output for an 750
Hz tone. I didn't notice much difference in the "peaked" tone, altho it did
seem to reduce the hiss quite a bit.
I added a W3NKN passive audio filter and am able to snake out any signal
even during contests. Worthwhile addition for about $35, and it also peps
up the selectivity of all my other QRP rigs.
It is a great little receiver and as quiet as anything I've ever owned.
Building my 2N2-40 is the highlight of some 44 years of holding an amateur
radio license. What a rush to hear those first CW signals as you well know
now.
Anybody interested in turning up the flame on this hobby ought to try
building a 2N2-20. Thanks to Jim Kortege and the book published by Paul,
NA5N, (the guy whose emails ruin propagation every once in awhile), there
are a plethora of resources available to help you complete the project.
73 de Lee, KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Delbert Long" <AD6WE@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 1:35 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] RX finished and Working!
>
>
> Well, it's about time! I finally got the receiver completed...fired it
up,
> and only heard a couple of weak signals (?) as I tuned through the
> band...sat down and looked at the board...scratched the old noggin a
while,
> and then what to my wondering eyes should appear? A missed connection!
The
> output of the I.F. amp just hanging there...not hooked up to the Product
> Detector at all! So I took care of that little problem, re-attached all
the
> alligator clips, and woolah! My eager ears filled up (well, not exactly
> filled) with those wonderful CW notes, and my heart overflowing (not
quite,
> just wait for the TX to get done....
>
> Just a couple of questions...I left out C37 (across the audio XFMR
primary)
> for now, and I notice that R40 is supposed to be chosen for "desired audio
> output." I used the 2.2 Meg resistor called out on the schematic...has
> anyone tried anything else?
>
> Can I finish in time for the Fall QRP homebrewer Sprint? I certainly hope
> so!
>
> 72, 73....
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
>
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>
Thanks for all the replies...
I remember when I first came across mention of the 2n2/40...It looked
interesting, but I probably would never have started the project if
John hadn't come up with the idea of doing it as a group project.
I was first licensed in 1974, and never got into doing anything
homebrew until the SMK-1. There's nothing like hearing those signals
on a rig that I put together myself.
When I hooked up the connections from the points marked "RX" I was
going back all the way to the beginning of the project - for me, more
than a year ago. It brought back memories of all the questions I
had, all the help I got from you guys in the group, and how great it
felt every time I got a stage finished and checked it out. And when
I had to take it to a ham buddy's place and have him put it on the
scope. And when he could see that I had the transformers in
backwards. Someone told me that that is the rule, they always have
to go in backwards the first time!
I remember last September when we had to decide whether to shelve the
project, or carry on. I'm glad we decided to carry on.
I really like hearing how some guys have done things just a little
differently. Mine is on a smaller board, because in the beginning I
hoped to squeeze it into one of those "large size" Altoids cans. I
don't think I'm going to be able to carry that off, but I'm still
using the same board that I started with. Some of us have a variable
bandwidth crystal, some of us have a fixed filter. Different strokes
for different folks, but still the "same" radio. I figure most of us
will use electronic keyers - I'm still on a straight key.
You can look at my radio and see the skill level improvement over the
period that I've been working on it. The first stages look like a
mess - I mostly put them in my own way without following any plan, so
they are really sloppy looking. Now, everything is starting to look
orderly and neat. And here and there, I have components scrounged
from other places. There's a Japanese "2SC" transistor in there
somewhere!
One place I have two SMT resistors soldered together to make one
15K. I couldn't find a 0.082 uF capacitor to put across the audio
transformer primary, so I found a couple junk box caps and paralleled
them...they measure 0.0815 uF now...close enough I'd guess.
So, even if my rig doesn't look like a professional job, it will
sound like all the others over the air, and it will always tell a
great story, even when it's turned off!
I guess I better stop jabbering and get back to finishing the thing
up. Hope to see some of you on the air real soon.
72, 73
Del, AD6WE
|
2260|2260|2002-09-17 17:39:15|tim_h39|IT LIVES!!!!!!|Hello All,
I wish it was the entire rig, but I will settle for a working VFO for
now, especially after all the problems I had with the first one.
I'm now building with the updated plans, and after 2 missed
connections my VFO has come alive....3.2 volts p2p and 2.085 to 2.185
after a little fiddling with the spacing of the turns on L1.
This sure is a boost after all the problems I have caused myself with
the previous attempt, sure makes you doubt your ability when you
can't get things to go right. After the trouble shooting when you
finially get things right it's big ole shot in the arm.
Thanks to all for the offers of help, now on to the next stage and
this time I'll try to get it without crying for help !!!!!
72,
Tim...NM8Y
|
2261|2260|2002-09-17 21:16:04|Jeff Hecht|Re: IT LIVES!!!!!!|Tim,
Outstanding! It sure is a great feeling isn't it :) Good job on the
spread of the VFO as well.
That will make it very nice when you get a 10 turn vernier to put on the
front of your rig, as
it will read the frequency directly. Now, you are on to the front end
of the RX section.
Be extra careful when you wind the transformers for the double balanced
mixer. If you have
3 different colors of magnet wire, use them... it comes in very handy.
I can't imagine winding
a trifilar transformer without them.
You are doing a great job. Ask lots of questions. The folks here on
the list love to answer
them, and you won't find a more helpful bunch of hams than those right
here... I should know...
I used this list a ton when I was building mine.
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
tim_h39 wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I wish it was the entire rig, but I will settle for a working VFO for
> now, especially after all the problems I had with the first one.
>
> I'm now building with the updated plans, and after 2 missed
> connections my VFO has come alive....3.2 volts p2p and 2.085 to 2.185
> after a little fiddling with the spacing of the turns on L1.
>
> This sure is a boost after all the problems I have caused myself with
> the previous attempt, sure makes you doubt your ability when you
> can't get things to go right. After the trouble shooting when you
> finially get things right it's big ole shot in the arm.
>
> Thanks to all for the offers of help, now on to the next stage and
> this time I'll try to get it without crying for help !!!!!
>
> 72,
> Tim...NM8Y
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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Congrats Tim! Great to hear you got the VFO going. If you can do that,
you can get the rest done no sweat!
Here's a tip on the trifilar's in the DBM; use three different colored
wires. I didn't in my first one and the DBM was the source of many
mistakes. For the second one I ordered a 3-wire kit from Dan's Small
Parts and I feel much more confident that I've got the DBM correct
(famous last words!).
Keep us informed on your progress, and by all means upload some pictures!
73,
John, N1QO
tim_h39 wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I wish it was the entire rig, but I will settle for a working VFO for
> now, especially after all the problems I had with the first one.
>
> I'm now building with the updated plans, and after 2 missed
> connections my VFO has come alive....3.2 volts p2p and 2.085 to 2.185
> after a little fiddling with the spacing of the turns on L1.
>
> This sure is a boost after all the problems I have caused myself with
> the previous attempt, sure makes you doubt your ability when you
> can't get things to go right. After the trouble shooting when you
> finially get things right it's big ole shot in the arm.
>
> Thanks to all for the offers of help, now on to the next stage and
> this time I'll try to get it without crying for help !!!!!
>
> 72,
> Tim...NM8Y
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThat was a nice post Del, thanks. It really has been a long road for us
on this list. I still remember Sep 11, 2001 for many reasons, not the
least of which was that it made me so angry I lost interest in building
radios for a while. It was the people on this list that kept me involved
and for that I thank all of you.
Of course it goes without saying that the passing of Wes Clopton, W3ERU
was a very sad time for those of us who got to know him through this
list. Wes was a great supporter of this project and is missed very much.
We had a lot of rigs get built here on this list and I've really enjoyed
being part of it. I know there are a few folks here who looked at this
project at the beginning and started having second thoughts about diving in.
Myself, I got into this crazy SMT Manhattan kick and am building my
second 2n2/40+ with as many SMT parts as possible. It's coming along
well and when my mom arrives later this week I'm gonna grab her [much
higher quality than mine] digital camera and take some pics!
I pretty sure there are some folks with bags of parts that haven't
started. Just want to let everyone know that it's never too late to get
started! We'll be here to cheer ya own and look for you on the air for
that first QSO.
73,
John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
>
> So, even if my rig doesn't look like a professional job, it will
> sound like all the others over the air, and it will always tell a
> great story, even when it's turned off!
>
> I guess I better stop jabbering and get back to finishing the thing
> up. Hope to see some of you on the air real soon.
>
> 72, 73
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
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>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comDon't be afraid of "crying for help." I can't count the times that I tried
to get things right by myself before asking someone's advice. Saves a lot
of time spent undoing something that need not have gone the other way. And
your question might help someone else when the same problem comes up for
them. How many of us have a great radio now, that we would never have been
able to put together alone?
On the other hand, troubleshooting something that doesn't work right the
first time is a great learning experience too.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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>
>I pretty sure there are some folks with bags of parts that haven't
>started.
That would be me!! It's taken 10 months to slowly collect all the parts. I'm
in the process of rebuilding my home shack - I've been mobile for the last
15 years or so... Do you know how hard it is to solder at 65 MPH?? Anyways,
hoping to get all my ducks in a row to start building in the next couple of
weeks. This list kept me interested in building this cool sounding radio!
72
.mark
--{ Mark E Schoonover KA6WKE
--{ Senior Hacker, IS Gopher, Hardware Fiend
--{ American Geotechnical
--{ http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke
--{ ka6wke@amsat.org
/"\
\ / ASCII Ribbon Campaign
X Against HTML Mail
/ \Tim:
Part of the fun of building and using your own radio gear is the "rush" you
get when you hook everything up, and put on the power.
I would be lying to say that my projects always work on the first try,
because they don't. But again, thats part of the fun too. The
"troubleshooting" part of building. Sometimes, when it looks like you have
tried everything, reviewed everything, and gone over everything twice,
something "stupid" pops out at ya.. Maybe a wire out of sequence, a resistor
that is 10 ohms instead of 10K ohms, or whatnot. And sometimes, in spite of
all your troubleshooting, the only answer is to have someone who has "been
there-done that" take a shot at it.
Enjoy the rush of success, but try NOT to be disapointed too much when it
doesn't work the first time.
I had a blast building my 2N2-40 rig, maybe the most fun so far in radio. I
hope Jim builds a 20 meter version soon!
Good luck and keep it up,
Tom
KC0GXX
2N2-40 cerificate number 27
|
2267|2267|2002-09-22 18:39:53|Delbert Long|May I have a drum roll, Please...|I need to install Pot 4 (Haven't found a 100 ohm pot in my junk box yet,
probably have to run out to RS), check all the connections, and I will be
ready for the final check-out. Must have been crosseyed or something, I
left out T12 and made the connection directly from the mixer to TC7...then I
put it in backwards and had to correct that...I guess that's one of my rules
putting in transformers backwards first...anyhow, if all goes well, the
first QSO might take place within the next 24 hours or less. What
unsuspecting ham is out there sending CQ...just waiting to be snagged by
another new 2N2/40...wonder if I will still be able to send CW while I am
shaking all over with the excitement?
Stay Tuned.....
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.comAwesome Del - been a long road 'eh!
I have to say that the 2n2/40+ is still my favorite radio to use.
73,
John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
> I need to install Pot 4 (Haven't found a 100 ohm pot in my junk box yet,
>
> Stay Tuned.....
>
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comIt HAS been a long road.
I picked up a 100 ohm trimpot today...haven't put it in yet, but I
have three 33's in series so I can test and peak TC7...I understand
that there are "two peaks..." if that's the case, how do I tell which
peak I want? Hope I understand this correctly...then I adjust TC8
for 2 watts out...is that about what everyone is getting?
I'm trying to do all this without a scope...probably take it over to
a friend's place for final touchup...
I don't have any permanent antennas, so I'll have to throw up
something quick and dirty to put it on the air, or wait for a chance
to take it to the park...weather is so dang hot I can hardly stand to
step outside...
Keep those drums rolling, it won't be long now...I'm looking over the
posts for help on the final checkout...
Del, AD6WE
|
2270|2267|2002-09-24 17:58:41|Arth Silvers, W6AGS|Re: May I have a drum roll, Please...|Del,
Use the trimpot to adjust output level. Don't have notes in front of
me to tell me what is done with TC7 and TC8. I think one is peaked and
the other adjusts the transmit offset. In any event, install the 100
ohm trimpot at max resistance then slowly bring up the drive to the 2
watt level which, according to my setup is about 14 to 15 peak volts
into a 50 ohm dummy load. The finals will fry if you overdrive them.
If the collector final output peak voltage doesn't respond when you
turn the trimpot then you've gone too far.
72s and Congrats,
Arth W6AGS
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Delbert Long" wrote:
> It HAS been a long road.
>
> I picked up a 100 ohm trimpot today...haven't put it in yet, but I
> have three 33's in series so I can test and peak TC7...I understand
> that there are "two peaks..." if that's the case, how do I tell
which
> peak I want? Hope I understand this correctly...then I adjust TC8
> for 2 watts out...is that about what everyone is getting?
>
> I'm trying to do all this without a scope...probably take it over to
> a friend's place for final touchup...
>
> I don't have any permanent antennas, so I'll have to throw up
> something quick and dirty to put it on the air, or wait for a chance
> to take it to the park...weather is so dang hot I can hardly stand
to
> step outside...
>
> Keep those drums rolling, it won't be long now...I'm looking over
the
> posts for help on the final checkout...
>
> Del, AD6WE
Well, I guess I have more work to do...
I had at least one connection misplaced, and I let the "factory
installed smoke" out of one transistor, I believe it was Q22 (in the
RX/TX Driver). So I'll replace that, go over everything carefully
and try again.
Also, in testing the transmitter by bypassing the TR switch, it looks
like the signal out of the TX mixer is not quite right. Shouldn't
that be a sine wave at 7 mhZ? So I'll probably re-build that and see
if it works better. I'm using teeny SMT Schottky diodes, and I might
have cooked that one a little too much...although the other mixers
seem to be okay.
I remember trying to build the Herring Aid 5 Receiver years ago...I
never quite got it working, but doing everything over and over was
sure a learning experience. I think that this has been better than a
lot of college courses I've taken as far as learning goes. Thanks
again, Jim for doing the design in the first place, and then for
helping so many of us try and duplicate it.
|
2272|2267|2002-09-26 10:10:59|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: May I have a drum roll, Please...|At 01:35 AM 9/24/02 +0000, Del wrote:
>It HAS been a long road.
>
>I picked up a 100 ohm trimpot today...haven't put it in yet, but I
>have three 33's in series so I can test and peak TC7...I understand
>that there are "two peaks..." if that's the case, how do I tell which
>peak I want?
Either one. Each peak represents when TC7 has tuned the secondary of
T12 to resonance. If you have only one peak, then TC7 hasn't actually
tuned the circuit to resonance. See if you can figure out why. Hint:
there are two places when TC7 is rotated through 360 degrees that
result in the same capacitance.
> Hope I understand this correctly...then I adjust TC8
>for 2 watts out...
Not quite correct. You also want to peak TC8. If it is tuning
the primary of T13 correctly, it should also show two peaks.
Once TC7 and TC8 are peaked, then you adjust POT4 for the drive level
into the finals that will result in 2 to 2.5 watts of output. Once
you have POT4 set, go back in readjust both TC7 and TC8, since supplying
drive power to the finals causes the resonant points to move slightly.
>is that about what everyone is getting?
2 to 2.5 watts is recommended. The rig will actually run more, but
that stresses the finals too much.
>I'm trying to do all this without a scope...probably take it over to
>a friend's place for final touchup...
Good idea to get it right on, but you can do a really good job
with some patience and a good dummy load/wattmeter setup.
>-snip-
Looking forward to seeing your post that it is working Del.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
At 11:44 PM 9/24/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Well, I guess I have more work to do...
>
>I had at least one connection misplaced, and I let the "factory
>installed smoke" out of one transistor, I believe it was Q22 (in the
>RX/TX Driver).
Ooops! Well at least they are inexpensive transistors. We've
all let the smoke out of more than a few. :-)
> So I'll replace that, go over everything carefully
>and try again.
>
>Also, in testing the transmitter by bypassing the TR switch, it looks
>like the signal out of the TX mixer is not quite right. Shouldn't
>that be a sine wave at 7 mhZ?
No. The signal out of the mixer is very complex consisting of the
VFO and LO inputs, and the sum and difference of them, plus a lot of
harmonics of both of those inputs. It isn't until you get to the output
of the Cascode RF Amp that it starts looking like a good sinewave.
That's why the input and output are tuned; to remove all of the junk
that gets generated in the mixer.
> So I'll probably re-build that and see
>if it works better. I'm using teeny SMT Schottky diodes, and I might
>have cooked that one a little too much...although the other mixers
>seem to be okay.
I'm guessing the mixer diodes are OK, unless you put some DC on
them accidently.
>I remember trying to build the Herring Aid 5 Receiver years ago...I
>never quite got it working, but doing everything over and over was
>sure a learning experience. I think that this has been better than a
>lot of college courses I've taken as far as learning goes. Thanks
>again, Jim for doing the design in the first place, and then for
>helping so many of us try and duplicate it.
Well your getting close, and that's what is important. You've got
me on the edge of my chair waiting for you to successfully light
your 2N2/40 up for the first time with everything being correct.
It will play! :-)
72 and keep the posts coming,
Jim, K8IQY
Everything is back together after completely rebuilding the RX/TX
driver...it looks a lot better this time, and works fine. I re-built the TX
mixer using 1N4148's just in case. Also, T12 sneaked in backwards somehow,
so I fixed that. So everything is in place...all the connections seem to be
correct. I put my RF probe on the connection between Q15-Q16 and when I
keyed the rig, I saw a voltage that immediately disappeared. The sidetone
sounds really nice when the rig is keyed.
Am I loading the circuits with the RF Probe? Are there better points to
place it?
Don't think I'll be able to get to the scope at "Elmer's" house tonight,
it's my wife's birthday...
It won't be long now!!!
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device:
http://mobile.msn.comI managed to get some RF readings using my probe...if I remember
correctly the probe with a DVM set on DC volts gives me RF voltage
PEAK and I need to convert that to RMS in order to calculate the
watts, etc...
I did get an increase in output by turning the 100 ohm Pot, but
nowhere near the 15 volts peak I expect.
Looking at all the schematics I can find, I only find DC voltages
listed, and none at all in the transmitter section.
Can someone give me a list of suggested "Test Points" along with
expected RF voltages?
I found one or two more places where I had a wire incorrectly
connected...maybe there's another hiding out somewhere...
Thanks again to one and all...
Del, AD6WE
|
2276|1949|2002-09-27 21:37:43|John Wagner|smt pics uploaded|Howdy 2n2/40's,
I uploaded some pics of the 2n2/40+ smt I'm building. They are in the
FILE area (not photos), "2N2-40 Files" -> N1QO folder.
As I look at the pics, it doesn't look that much different then ol'
number 1. The only thing is, it looks like a lot of parts are missing!
They aren't, but they are super small.
The DBM didn't work right off either. In one of the pics, you might
notice the base of Q4 isn't hooked up correctly. After fixing that, I
could peak TC1/TC2 and hear some loud CW sigs coming out of block C
with that going to a rcvr tuned to the IF (wooooohoooo!). Trouble
shooting was done by feeding a 7.050MHZ sig in and following it
through with the scope.
The DBM is also hard to see in the pics. It's made out of two
MMBD352LT1 Dual Hot Carrier Mixer Diodes. It took a bit to get the
layout right, but in the end it turned out to be pretty simple. The
DHCDiode packages are layed on top of a manhattan pad that's be cut
scored in two. One is forward, the other backwards and small hookup
wires are run to the correct location. In retrospect, I could have
probably made it a little tighter by running directly to them instead
of using pads.
There are SMT caps and resistors all over the VFO, with the exception
of the NPO and poly caps. Q1, Q2 and Q3 are all SMT 2n2222's installed
on a tri-scored pad. The Rx/Tx driver is mostly SMT as well. Some of
them are really hard to find 'cause the just stand next to a pad and
goto ground.
Hopefully I'll get a chance to work on the rig this weekend. I also
ordered a new digital cam today so I'm hoping for many more pics in
the future.
73,
John, N1QO
|
2277|2275|2002-09-27 21:42:58|john|Re: Still Pluggin' Away...|Delbert Long wrote:
> I managed to get some RF readings using my probe...if I remember
> correctly the probe with a DVM set on DC volts gives me RF voltage
> PEAK and I need to convert that to RMS in order to calculate the
> watts, etc...
Should be the DVM set to AC volts and that will give RMS, not P2P.
> I did get an increase in output by turning the 100 ohm Pot, but
> nowhere near the 15 volts peak I expect.
>
> Looking at all the schematics I can find, I only find DC voltages
> listed, and none at all in the transmitter section.
>
> Can someone give me a list of suggested "Test Points" along with
> expected RF voltages?
Jim uploaded some scope traces throughout the xmit chain - you should
probably grab those as they have AC voltages on them.
>
> I found one or two more places where I had a wire incorrectly
> connected...maybe there's another hiding out somewhere...
Little buggers!!!
I'm sure you'll find it Del, keep at it!
73,
John, N1QO
>
> Thanks again to one and all...
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGang,
I thought I had ordered more 100uH chokes in my last Dan's order, but I
can't seem to find 'em. I'm short one now and am here now asking if
anyone happens to have any spares for sale or trade? I'd like about 5 or
6 if you got 'em.
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comDo you mean SMT or regular chokes?
I have a bunch of "pulls" from a board that I salvaged ... I'd be happy to
send you some of those if you are interested. Also some other values you
could play with if you want...
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspxEither will do - I've got "regular" chokes in there now.
I'd sure appreciate it Del, call book address is good. I'll send you
some goodies in return. ;)
73,
John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
> Do you mean SMT or regular chokes?
>
> I have a bunch of "pulls" from a board that I salvaged ... I'd be happy to
> send you some of those if you are interested. Also some other values you
> could play with if you want...
>
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJeff, K8GD mentioned to me that old VCR's are loaded with 100uH chokes.
I just checked the one in my junk closet and sure enough, it had a bunch
(funny looking things, but they are the right value).
So I'm all set! Thanks Jeff.
I just got the VBW filter soldered in tonight and tested it. Looking
good, real good - I really can't wait to hear this one work! I'm taking
my time and putting it on the scope after each section is done. Doing
things like measuring the amp gain and filter insertion loss per Paul
Harden, NA5N's scope tutorial.
FWIW, it's a lot of fun building a second 2n2/40+. I'm finding that some
things are becoming second nature. What's great about building like this
is a lot of stuff is making a lot of sense. When I first read about
VFO's and IF and mixers it just seemed like a bunch of gibberish, but
now I'm really getting an understanding for it. This is cool stuff and
it's all layed out nicely in this radio, easy to see the interaction.
Also, using SMT isn't that hard after you get the hang of it. In fact in
some instances it's much easier, like when soldering in bypass caps to
ground, or anything to ground for that matter - you just lean it against
the pad, they fit anywhere.
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comSounds like you're fixed for chokes if you have an old VCR to cannibalize.
That's probably where mine came from...also some from an old telephone. I
just put one of those in my T/R switch yesterday.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx(Some would reply, "what do you mean, at last?")
Up working on the rig Friday night/Saturday morning until 3:00 AM Local
time. Re-built the entire cascode amp and RF driver...double and triple
checked the wires...
I need a new trimcap for TC8...I see that the TR switch can use a 47 pF cap
for "Fixed Tuned input" ... dunno what that means, but I'm gonna give that
trimmer a transfer, its services are required in another location. Better
measure for good measure...wow, this is the wrong value, the trimmer reads
over 100 pF all by itself.
Take the wife grocery shopping...on the way home we can stop at the "toy
store" and get a trimmer, plus the 47 puffer that I can't seem to locate.
Can't see anything too well, haven't had much sleep lately.
I said that I would make bean soup for supper...while that's simmering I can
work on the rig. I have 1 1/2 hours before I need to start chopping onions
and carrots...
So...I get everything wired up, hook up the battery, and take out the RF
Probe...
Have a look at those scope traces of Jim's...check TC7, wow, there's a good
signal there...it peaks nicely. Move on to TC8...there's a nice peak there.
Okay, how about the final amp...is it working this time? Hey, there's a
good 10 volts peak at the antenna!
I thought I might shout at this point, but I go into the room where my wife
is watching TV..."Honey, it's working!" I'm a little quieter than I
expected to be and I say it again..."It's working." I am actually near
tears. She smiles and gives me a high five...says congratulations.
I go back and try tuning the Finals for 2 watts...suddenly my output
disappears! Oh, No!!! What Happened?
Go back through the transmit chain...everything is there until I get to the
collectors of Q18,19,20...check them out, and their base/emitter junctions
are wide open...sorry guys, you gave your lives for a good cause.
I'll settle for 1 1/2 watts for now, how many dB below TWO is that anyway?
Installation of replacements is complete...check it out...okay it's working
again!
So now, how about getting this puppy on the air?
I have to find my half-wave wire...get it into the tree, tune up...SWR is
kinda high, isn't it?...That switch on the tuner needs to be set on 40
meters, that's better.
Seems to be a lot of digital stuff where QRP CW belongs...what's going on?
Go to bed, it's late....
Now it's Sunday Morning...about 1430 UTC...
Wow, this receiver is nice. Nobody calling CQ...maybe I'll try one of my
own...
AD6WE de WB6HQK...
Hey, someone can hear me!!!
Bart, in Torrance, CA. About 25 miles away, at least!
Bart isn't familiar with the 2N2/40. So, I tell him about how it uses all
transistors, no IC's...some folks on the internet decided to build it as a
group...he is my FIRST contact with my new rig. He wants to know is it VFO
or Crystal Control...this is going to be the longest QSO I've ever had...I
haven't ragchewed using CW for so long, I have to stop sometimes and write
down what I want to send because I can't get through a word like "design" or
"portable" or "enclosure"...or "EXCITED..."
I tell him that now I have to think about putting it into an enclosure
because it's sitting naked on the table right now.
Okay, so who has those 2N2/40 certificates? I'm ready!
No digital camera, so I'll have to use up the roll of film and have a
picture disk made...
Look for me and my 2N2/40 in the next Spartan Sprint...we'll be there!
72, 73 es hpe C U Soon...
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspxAll right, way to go Del!!! ...
Delbert Long wrote:
> Up working on the rig Friday night/Saturday morning until 3:00 AM Local
Been there, done that, got the droopy eyeballs to prove it.
> Have a look at those scope traces of Jim's...check TC7, wow, there's a good
> signal there...it peaks nicely. Move on to TC8...there's a nice peak there.
> Okay, how about the final amp...is it working this time? Hey, there's a
> good 10 volts peak at the antenna!
Is that 10v p2p or RMS?
> I go back and try tuning the Finals for 2 watts...suddenly my output
> disappears! Oh, No!!! What Happened?
pppppppfffffffffffffffff pop!
> AD6WE de WB6HQK...
>
> Hey, someone can hear me!!!
Awesome! The first time someone comes back at you is just awesome! I
remember just sitting there staring my rig in amazement.
> No digital camera, so I'll have to use up the roll of film and have a
> picture disk made...
>
> Look for me and my 2N2/40 in the next Spartan Sprint...we'll be there!
Again, nice job and congrats.
73,
John, N1QO
>
> 72, 73 es hpe C U Soon...
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comYep - all set. Thanks for the offer though, appreciated.
73,
John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
> Sounds like you're fixed for chokes if you have an old VCR to cannibalize.
> That's probably where mine came from...also some from an old telephone. I
> just put one of those in my T/R switch yesterday.
>
>
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comCongratualations, and welcome to our small, honored club!
Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Delbert Long" <AD6WE@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>; <DLong@bentonrea.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2002 12:29 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Certifiable at Last!
>
> (Some would reply, "what do you mean, at last?")
>
> Up working on the rig Friday night/Saturday morning until 3:00 AM Local
> time. Re-built the entire cascode amp and RF driver...double and triple
> checked the wires...
>
> I need a new trimcap for TC8...I see that the TR switch can use a 47 pF
cap
> for "Fixed Tuned input" ... dunno what that means, but I'm gonna give that
> trimmer a transfer, its services are required in another location. Better
> measure for good measure...wow, this is the wrong value, the trimmer reads
> over 100 pF all by itself.
>
> Take the wife grocery shopping...on the way home we can stop at the "toy
> store" and get a trimmer, plus the 47 puffer that I can't seem to locate.
> Can't see anything too well, haven't had much sleep lately.
>
> I said that I would make bean soup for supper...while that's simmering I
can
> work on the rig. I have 1 1/2 hours before I need to start chopping
onions
> and carrots...
>
> So...I get everything wired up, hook up the battery, and take out the RF
> Probe...
>
> Have a look at those scope traces of Jim's...check TC7, wow, there's a
good
> signal there...it peaks nicely. Move on to TC8...there's a nice peak
there.
> Okay, how about the final amp...is it working this time? Hey, there's a
> good 10 volts peak at the antenna!
>
> I thought I might shout at this point, but I go into the room where my
wife
> is watching TV..."Honey, it's working!" I'm a little quieter than I
> expected to be and I say it again..."It's working." I am actually near
> tears. She smiles and gives me a high five...says congratulations.
>
> I go back and try tuning the Finals for 2 watts...suddenly my output
> disappears! Oh, No!!! What Happened?
>
> Go back through the transmit chain...everything is there until I get to
the
> collectors of Q18,19,20...check them out, and their base/emitter junctions
> are wide open...sorry guys, you gave your lives for a good cause.
>
> I'll settle for 1 1/2 watts for now, how many dB below TWO is that anyway?
>
> Installation of replacements is complete...check it out...okay it's
working
> again!
>
> So now, how about getting this puppy on the air?
>
> I have to find my half-wave wire...get it into the tree, tune up...SWR is
> kinda high, isn't it?...That switch on the tuner needs to be set on 40
> meters, that's better.
>
> Seems to be a lot of digital stuff where QRP CW belongs...what's going on?
> Go to bed, it's late....
>
> Now it's Sunday Morning...about 1430 UTC...
>
> Wow, this receiver is nice. Nobody calling CQ...maybe I'll try one of my
> own...
>
> AD6WE de WB6HQK...
>
> Hey, someone can hear me!!!
>
> Bart, in Torrance, CA. About 25 miles away, at least!
>
> Bart isn't familiar with the 2N2/40. So, I tell him about how it uses all
> transistors, no IC's...some folks on the internet decided to build it as a
> group...he is my FIRST contact with my new rig. He wants to know is it
VFO
> or Crystal Control...this is going to be the longest QSO I've ever had...I
> haven't ragchewed using CW for so long, I have to stop sometimes and write
> down what I want to send because I can't get through a word like "design"
or
> "portable" or "enclosure"...or "EXCITED..."
>
> I tell him that now I have to think about putting it into an enclosure
> because it's sitting naked on the table right now.
>
> Okay, so who has those 2N2/40 certificates? I'm ready!
>
> No digital camera, so I'll have to use up the roll of film and have a
> picture disk made...
>
> Look for me and my 2N2/40 in the next Spartan Sprint...we'll be there!
>
> 72, 73 es hpe C U Soon...
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Delbert,
Nice job! Glad another 2N2/40 is on the air. Don't feel bad, I fried 2
sets of output transistors
in mine. The 2N2222's don't have a very good sense of humor about high
SWR.
The 6 call area is a long way from Dayton, but I might hear you sometime
if there is a band
opening.
Right now I'm working on a 2N2/30. Should be lots of fun. Details to
follow.
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
Delbert Long wrote:
>
> (Some would reply, "what do you mean, at last?")
>
> Up working on the rig Friday night/Saturday morning until 3:00 AM
> Local
> time. Re-built the entire cascode amp and RF driver...double and
> triple
> checked the wires...
>
> I need a new trimcap for TC8...I see that the TR switch can use a 47
> pF cap
> for "Fixed Tuned input" ... dunno what that means, but I'm gonna give
> that
> trimmer a transfer, its services are required in another location.
> Better
> measure for good measure...wow, this is the wrong value, the trimmer
> reads
> over 100 pF all by itself.
>
> Take the wife grocery shopping...on the way home we can stop at the
> "toy
> store" and get a trimmer, plus the 47 puffer that I can't seem to
> locate.
> Can't see anything too well, haven't had much sleep lately.
>
> I said that I would make bean soup for supper...while that's simmering
> I can
> work on the rig. I have 1 1/2 hours before I need to start chopping
> onions
> and carrots...
>
> So...I get everything wired up, hook up the battery, and take out the
> RF
> Probe...
>
> Have a look at those scope traces of Jim's...check TC7, wow, there's a
> good
> signal there...it peaks nicely. Move on to TC8...there's a nice peak
> there.
> Okay, how about the final amp...is it working this time? Hey,
> there's a
> good 10 volts peak at the antenna!
>
> I thought I might shout at this point, but I go into the room where my
> wife
> is watching TV..."Honey, it's working!" I'm a little quieter than I
> expected to be and I say it again..."It's working." I am actually
> near
> tears. She smiles and gives me a high five...says congratulations.
>
> I go back and try tuning the Finals for 2 watts...suddenly my output
> disappears! Oh, No!!! What Happened?
>
> Go back through the transmit chain...everything is there until I get
> to the
> collectors of Q18,19,20...check them out, and their base/emitter
> junctions
> are wide open...sorry guys, you gave your lives for a good cause.
>
> I'll settle for 1 1/2 watts for now, how many dB below TWO is that
> anyway?
>
> Installation of replacements is complete...check it out...okay it's
> working
> again!
>
> So now, how about getting this puppy on the air?
>
> I have to find my half-wave wire...get it into the tree, tune up...SWR
> is
> kinda high, isn't it?...That switch on the tuner needs to be set on 40
>
> meters, that's better.
>
> Seems to be a lot of digital stuff where QRP CW belongs...what's going
> on?
> Go to bed, it's late....
>
> Now it's Sunday Morning...about 1430 UTC...
>
> Wow, this receiver is nice. Nobody calling CQ...maybe I'll try one of
> my
> own...
>
> AD6WE de WB6HQK...
>
> Hey, someone can hear me!!!
>
> Bart, in Torrance, CA. About 25 miles away, at least!
>
> Bart isn't familiar with the 2N2/40. So, I tell him about how it uses
> all
> transistors, no IC's...some folks on the internet decided to build it
> as a
> group...he is my FIRST contact with my new rig. He wants to know is
> it VFO
> or Crystal Control...this is going to be the longest QSO I've ever
> had...I
> haven't ragchewed using CW for so long, I have to stop sometimes and
> write
> down what I want to send because I can't get through a word like
> "design" or
> "portable" or "enclosure"...or "EXCITED..."
>
> I tell him that now I have to think about putting it into an enclosure
>
> because it's sitting naked on the table right now.
>
> Okay, so who has those 2N2/40 certificates? I'm ready!
>
> No digital camera, so I'll have to use up the roll of film and have a
> picture disk made...
>
> Look for me and my 2N2/40 in the next Spartan Sprint...we'll be there!
>
> 72, 73 es hpe C U Soon...
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. -
> Albert
> Einstein
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Very good Del!
Soon I will get a "Round Tuit" and finish mine up. Maybe. So little
time, so many rigs...heheheh
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
HEATH HW-9 @ 2W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
----- Original Message -----
From: "Delbert Long" <AD6WE@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>; <DLong@bentonrea.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2002 11:29 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Certifiable at Last!
>
> (Some would reply, "what do you mean, at last?")
>
> Up working on the rig Friday night/Saturday morning until 3:00 AM
Local
> time. Re-built the entire cascode amp and RF driver...double and
triple
> checked the wires...
>
> I need a new trimcap for TC8...I see that the TR switch can use a 47
pF cap
> for "Fixed Tuned input" ... dunno what that means, but I'm gonna
give that
> trimmer a transfer, its services are required in another location.
Better
> measure for good measure...wow, this is the wrong value, the trimmer
reads
> over 100 pF all by itself.
>
> Take the wife grocery shopping...on the way home we can stop at the
"toy
> store" and get a trimmer, plus the 47 puffer that I can't seem to
locate.
> Can't see anything too well, haven't had much sleep lately.
>
> I said that I would make bean soup for supper...while that's
simmering I can
> work on the rig. I have 1 1/2 hours before I need to start chopping
onions
> and carrots...
>
> So...I get everything wired up, hook up the battery, and take out
the RF
> Probe...
>
> Have a look at those scope traces of Jim's...check TC7, wow, there's
a good
> signal there...it peaks nicely. Move on to TC8...there's a nice
peak there.
> Okay, how about the final amp...is it working this time? Hey,
there's a
> good 10 volts peak at the antenna!
>
> I thought I might shout at this point, but I go into the room where
my wife
> is watching TV..."Honey, it's working!" I'm a little quieter than I
> expected to be and I say it again..."It's working." I am actually
near
> tears. She smiles and gives me a high five...says congratulations.
>
> I go back and try tuning the Finals for 2 watts...suddenly my output
> disappears! Oh, No!!! What Happened?
>
> Go back through the transmit chain...everything is there until I get
to the
> collectors of Q18,19,20...check them out, and their base/emitter
junctions
> are wide open...sorry guys, you gave your lives for a good cause.
>
> I'll settle for 1 1/2 watts for now, how many dB below TWO is that
anyway?
>
> Installation of replacements is complete...check it out...okay it's
working
> again!
>
> So now, how about getting this puppy on the air?
>
> I have to find my half-wave wire...get it into the tree, tune
up...SWR is
> kinda high, isn't it?...That switch on the tuner needs to be set on
40
> meters, that's better.
>
> Seems to be a lot of digital stuff where QRP CW belongs...what's
going on?
> Go to bed, it's late....
>
> Now it's Sunday Morning...about 1430 UTC...
>
> Wow, this receiver is nice. Nobody calling CQ...maybe I'll try one
of my
> own...
>
> AD6WE de WB6HQK...
>
> Hey, someone can hear me!!!
>
> Bart, in Torrance, CA. About 25 miles away, at least!
>
> Bart isn't familiar with the 2N2/40. So, I tell him about how it
uses all
> transistors, no IC's...some folks on the internet decided to build
it as a
> group...he is my FIRST contact with my new rig. He wants to know is
it VFO
> or Crystal Control...this is going to be the longest QSO I've ever
had...I
> haven't ragchewed using CW for so long, I have to stop sometimes and
write
> down what I want to send because I can't get through a word like
"design" or
> "portable" or "enclosure"...or "EXCITED..."
>
> I tell him that now I have to think about putting it into an
enclosure
> because it's sitting naked on the table right now.
>
> Okay, so who has those 2N2/40 certificates? I'm ready!
>
> No digital camera, so I'll have to use up the roll of film and have
a
> picture disk made...
>
> Look for me and my 2N2/40 in the next Spartan Sprint...we'll be
there!
>
> 72, 73 es hpe C U Soon...
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. -
Albert
> Einstein
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> Sell a Home with Ease!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/SrPZMC/kTmEAA/MVfIAA/ELTolB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
-~->
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Jeff -
I'm very interested in building another 2N2 rig. How about some details on
your 2N2-30?
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Hecht" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2002 6:32 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Certifiable at Last!
> Delbert,
>
> Nice job! Glad another 2N2/40 is on the air. Don't feel bad, I fried 2
> sets of output transistors
> in mine. The 2N2222's don't have a very good sense of humor about high
> SWR.
>
> The 6 call area is a long way from Dayton, but I might hear you sometime
> if there is a band
> opening.
>
> Right now I'm working on a 2N2/30. Should be lots of fun. Details to
> follow.
>
> Best 72,
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
> Delbert Long wrote:
>
> >
> > (Some would reply, "what do you mean, at last?")
> >
> > Up working on the rig Friday night/Saturday morning until 3:00 AM
> > Local
> > time. Re-built the entire cascode amp and RF driver...double and
> > triple
> > checked the wires...
> >
> > I need a new trimcap for TC8...I see that the TR switch can use a 47
> > pF cap
> > for "Fixed Tuned input" ... dunno what that means, but I'm gonna give
> > that
> > trimmer a transfer, its services are required in another location.
> > Better
> > measure for good measure...wow, this is the wrong value, the trimmer
> > reads
> > over 100 pF all by itself.
> >
> > Take the wife grocery shopping...on the way home we can stop at the
> > "toy
> > store" and get a trimmer, plus the 47 puffer that I can't seem to
> > locate.
> > Can't see anything too well, haven't had much sleep lately.
> >
> > I said that I would make bean soup for supper...while that's simmering
> > I can
> > work on the rig. I have 1 1/2 hours before I need to start chopping
> > onions
> > and carrots...
> >
> > So...I get everything wired up, hook up the battery, and take out the
> > RF
> > Probe...
> >
> > Have a look at those scope traces of Jim's...check TC7, wow, there's a
> > good
> > signal there...it peaks nicely. Move on to TC8...there's a nice peak
> > there.
> > Okay, how about the final amp...is it working this time? Hey,
> > there's a
> > good 10 volts peak at the antenna!
> >
> > I thought I might shout at this point, but I go into the room where my
> > wife
> > is watching TV..."Honey, it's working!" I'm a little quieter than I
> > expected to be and I say it again..."It's working." I am actually
> > near
> > tears. She smiles and gives me a high five...says congratulations.
> >
> > I go back and try tuning the Finals for 2 watts...suddenly my output
> > disappears! Oh, No!!! What Happened?
> >
> > Go back through the transmit chain...everything is there until I get
> > to the
> > collectors of Q18,19,20...check them out, and their base/emitter
> > junctions
> > are wide open...sorry guys, you gave your lives for a good cause.
> >
> > I'll settle for 1 1/2 watts for now, how many dB below TWO is that
> > anyway?
> >
> > Installation of replacements is complete...check it out...okay it's
> > working
> > again!
> >
> > So now, how about getting this puppy on the air?
> >
> > I have to find my half-wave wire...get it into the tree, tune up...SWR
> > is
> > kinda high, isn't it?...That switch on the tuner needs to be set on 40
> >
> > meters, that's better.
> >
> > Seems to be a lot of digital stuff where QRP CW belongs...what's going
> > on?
> > Go to bed, it's late....
> >
> > Now it's Sunday Morning...about 1430 UTC...
> >
> > Wow, this receiver is nice. Nobody calling CQ...maybe I'll try one of
> > my
> > own...
> >
> > AD6WE de WB6HQK...
> >
> > Hey, someone can hear me!!!
> >
> > Bart, in Torrance, CA. About 25 miles away, at least!
> >
> > Bart isn't familiar with the 2N2/40. So, I tell him about how it uses
> > all
> > transistors, no IC's...some folks on the internet decided to build it
> > as a
> > group...he is my FIRST contact with my new rig. He wants to know is
> > it VFO
> > or Crystal Control...this is going to be the longest QSO I've ever
> > had...I
> > haven't ragchewed using CW for so long, I have to stop sometimes and
> > write
> > down what I want to send because I can't get through a word like
> > "design" or
> > "portable" or "enclosure"...or "EXCITED..."
> >
> > I tell him that now I have to think about putting it into an enclosure
> >
> > because it's sitting naked on the table right now.
> >
> > Okay, so who has those 2N2/40 certificates? I'm ready!
> >
> > No digital camera, so I'll have to use up the roll of film and have a
> > picture disk made...
> >
> > Look for me and my 2N2/40 in the next Spartan Sprint...we'll be there!
> >
> > 72, 73 es hpe C U Soon...
> >
> > Delbert Long, AD6WE
> >
> > Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. -
> > Albert
> > Einstein
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Me, too !
I could really get cranked up over a 2N2-30. And I didn't even START my 40
! Byt that's another story for another time.
73
Dick K2JQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@sagcorp.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2002 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Certifiable at Last!
> Jeff -
> I'm very interested in building another 2N2 rig. How about some details
on
> your 2N2-30?
>Soon I will get a "Round Tuit" and finish mine up. Maybe. So little
>time, so many rigs...heheheh
You don't have to do what I did, letting most of my life go for two or three
weeks and diving in to get the darn thing done.
Maybe just take one transistor and the associated components at a
time...you'll be surprised how soon you get finished.
One thing I will definitely do next time is choose a color code for
interconnections, and whenever I come to a place marked "C" or "TX" or "RX"
or whatever...put a wire in there, so I don't wind up forgetting or making a
connection in the wrong place.
I still have plenty of work to do. I have to get the thing into an
enclosure...I'm told that all the local BC interference I get will go away
when I get that audio amp covered up. Still need to get the RIT put
together, too. And get that sidetone cleaned up...I'm looking back at the
archives to see what can be done there...oh, yeah...I still haven't got the
tuning range settled either...
I'm interested in that audio preamp that I see...where does that go?
I wonder how long before I feel caught up on my sleep?
Well, 72, 73 to all...look for me on the air, I'll probably be trying again
for awhile tonight.
When's a good time to try for a Left Coast /Right Coast qso on 40?
Del, AD6WE
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspxJim, could you please explain the function of the T/R switch...the
difference between "Fixed, Tuned..." and the circuit using a
trimcap...
Also, regarding the schottky diode substitution in the RX mute
circuit...would a 1N5711 work there?
Del, AD6WE
|
2293|2283|2002-09-30 00:42:05|Dennis Ponsness|Re: Certifiable at Last!|Congrats on the "birth" of your new rig!!!!! You will have a blast with
it!!! Still remember turning it on one nite right in the middle of a
French 'test of some sort.. worked about 6 F stations with it... what a
rush!!!!
72 es oo
Dennis - WB0WAO
NJQRP #329
FPQRP #-347
SOC #499
FISTS # 9299
GACW #622
ARS #1363
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspxJohn,
VERY NICE job with the SMT stuff!!!! Now that the leaves are
turning and it is getting cooler, time to get back to building.
Almost have the 2N2/15 RX "debugged" (in other words - fixing my mess
ups! ). I just used SMT for the R/C components going to ground.
May start to play with using some other SMT stuff this winter.
Waiting for a mini milling machine to show up at my door, and then it
is time to make some fixtures and jigs to take advantage of the Dremel
Drill Press and the Islander tool and some other accessories. So many
projects, so little time...sigh..
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
2295|2294|2002-09-30 01:32:53|wb0wao|SMT pics|John,
VERY NICE job with the SMT stuff!!!! Now that the leaves are
turning and it is getting cooler, time to get back to building.
Almost have the 2N2/15 RX "debugged" (in other words - fixing my mess
ups! ). I just used SMT for the R/C components going to ground.
May start to play with using some other SMT stuff this winter.
Waiting for a mini milling machine to show up at my door, and then it
is time to make some fixtures and jigs to take advantage of the Dremel
Drill Press and the Islander tool and some other accessories. So many
projects, so little time...sigh..
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
2296|2283|2002-09-30 04:24:58|john|Re: Certifiable at Last!|Delbert Long wrote:
>
>
> I'm interested in that audio preamp that I see...where does that go?
Just before the audio amp. ;) Pretty sure the schematic indicates where
in the chain it goes - there may be some messages on the board about
this as well. I found it to be a worthwhile addition, especially if
using a speaker.
> When's a good time to try for a Left Coast /Right Coast qso on 40?
My experience has been that between 10pm and midnight Eastern time
during the winter months is the best chance for a coast to coast QSO on 40m.
73,
John, N1QO
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHey Dennis,
wb0wao wrote:
> John,
> VERY NICE job with the SMT stuff!!!! Now that the leaves are
> turning and it is getting cooler, time to get back to building.
Yeah, that was pretty much my inspiration for getting back to work too.
> Almost have the 2N2/15 RX "debugged" (in other words - fixing my mess
> ups! ). I just used SMT for the R/C components going to ground.
> May start to play with using some other SMT stuff this winter.
The tri-cut pads for the transistors worked out real well, I would
suggest starting there. Once you do that, you get pretty fearless with
the little rice sized parts and start using 'em everywhere. :)
> Waiting for a mini milling machine to show up at my door, and then it
> is time to make some fixtures and jigs to take advantage of the Dremel
Very cool. One of these years I hope to get a lathe and/or mill myself.
Too many other things on the list before that happens though.
> Drill Press and the Islander tool and some other accessories. So many
> projects, so little time...sigh..
Ain't that the truth.
73,
John, N1QO
>
> 72
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThere were a copule of posts from people who were interested in what I
am doing with the 2N2/30. So far, I have the VFO completed, and am
starting on the RX strip.
I'm detailing my progress on my web site.
http://www.qsl.net/k8gd I will post a schematic of the VFO (per Jim's permission of course)
this week on my web site... I just need to sit down and get it off
paper and into the computer.
Best 72 to all.
Jeff - K8GD
I'm sending this off-list.
You are certainly doing the right thing in asking for Jim's permission
before posting anything regarding a 2N2/** rig. They're his "babies."
I think you will find that Jim will not have a problem with it. He has
always been more than willing to share his work, as long as no one tries to
"pirate" or profit from it.
Good going on that "30." That's my favorite band for CW !
73
Dick K2JQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "dek8gd" <jhecht@dnaco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 8:06 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2/30
> I will post a schematic of the VFO (per Jim's permission of course)
> this week on my web site... I just need to sit down and get it off
> paper and into the computer.
< RED - FACED -- BIG TIME ! >
That's what happpens when you get distracted.
Thanks Mac, AF4PS, and Lee, KM4YY.
Dick K2JQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rev. Mac Steinmeyer" <rev.mac@verizon.net>
To: <k2jq@rcn.com>
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/30
> LOL
At 02:43 AM 9/30/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim, could you please explain the function of the T/R switch...the
>difference between "Fixed, Tuned..." and the circuit using a
>trimcap...
Sure can Del.
The T/R switch is a voltage driven switch that protects
the input of the receiver from transmit power. The capacitor-inductor
combo, form a series tuned circuit. At the center of this tuned circuit
are the back-to-back diodes that conduct on voltage peaks, limiting
the amount of power passed on to the receiver. The receiver operates
during transmit, listening to the transmit signal. That's how the
sidetone is generated.
In the 2N2/40, two forms can be built. The one using the fixed, 47pF
capacitor and 10uH choke results in a series tuned circuit that is
very close to resonance, but might not be quite on due to component
tolerances. The other version uses a trimmer, and a slightly larger
12uH choke and can be tuned for a signal peak, thus potentially improving
the sensitivity of the receiver. Either version works well enough to
be acceptable; the fixed tuned version saving a somewhat expensive
trimmer capacitor
>Also, regarding the schottky diode substitution in the RX mute
>circuit...would a 1N5711 work there?
Indeed it will. Just the ticket for that sort of thing, where
only DC voltages and audio are present. However, 1N5711 diodes
don't work well as mixer diodes due to their very high junction
capacitance.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 07:27 PM 9/29/02 -0700, Del wrote:
>-snip-
>One thing I will definitely do next time is choose a color code for
>interconnections, and whenever I come to a place marked "C" or "TX" or "RX"
>or whatever...put a wire in there, so I don't wind up forgetting or making a
>connection in the wrong place.
Very good way of doing things. If you see my rigs or colored
pictures, each signal and power line is colored, with matching colors
for the common leads like Tx, Rx, etc. Helps immensely in troubleshooting.
>-snip-
>
>I'm interested in that audio preamp that I see...where does that go?
It goes after the product detector, and before the Rx Mute circuitry.
Makes a big difference in the amount of audio available for driving
a speaker.
72, and I'm delighted to hear that you've got your rig done, and
working. I'm proud of ya!
Jim, K8IQY
Must be snowing up there in Michigan. Jim's starting to play radio instead
of bicycle. That ought to get the Home brew juices flowing again for a lot
of folks - me included.
73 de Lee
km4yy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Certifiable at Last!
> At 07:27 PM 9/29/02 -0700, Del wrote:
>
>
> >-snip-
>
>
>
> >One thing I will definitely do next time is choose a color code for
> >interconnections, and whenever I come to a place marked "C" or "TX" or
"RX"
> >or whatever...put a wire in there, so I don't wind up forgetting or
making a
> >connection in the wrong place.
>
> Very good way of doing things. If you see my rigs or colored
> pictures, each signal and power line is colored, with matching colors
> for the common leads like Tx, Rx, etc. Helps immensely in
troubleshooting.
>
> >-snip-
> >
> >I'm interested in that audio preamp that I see...where does that go?
>
> It goes after the product detector, and before the Rx Mute circuitry.
> Makes a big difference in the amount of audio available for driving
> a speaker.
>
>
> 72, and I'm delighted to hear that you've got your rig done, and
> working. I'm proud of ya!
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
brian@iquest.net wrote:
> All digital cams eat batteries. It's just what they do.
Yeah but... ;)
This one ate 4AA's in about 30 pics last night. And when I mean ate,
they were DONE! I've now read that it's common and that NiMH 1800mAH
batteries are the only way to fly.
>
> What kind of cam did you get?
It's a Toshiba PDR-M25. My honest take on it is it feels sort of "cheap"
on the outside, but it seems to take real nice pictures and I guess the
end result is what counts most. I love the fact that I can just plug the
USB cable into it and access it like a disk drive (works under linux
too, just mount the usb device and it's like a 128 meg disk drive).
> BTW..your SMT rig is BEAUTIFUL. HOW do you get all those little
parts on the
> right part of the solder blob?? How small is the tip of your iron?
Thanks. My iron is a Weller WES50 and I'm using the tip that came with
it. I've got smaller tips but find they don't heat as well. I try to tin
the pads first, then carefully place the part in place. I hold the part
down with a broken dental tooth scraper and heat the tinned pad 'til the
solder flows under the part. After one side is down, it's easy.
The tougher parts are the small 0804 capacitors that have to go to
ground. For them, I pool some solder next to the pad and try to lay the
part in there and hold it with the aforementioned broken dental thingy.
73,
John, N1QO
>
>
>
>
>
>>Got my new digital camera last night. It EATS batteries like you
>>wouldn't believe. My wife is picking me up some 1800mAH rechargables
>>today...
>>
>>Anyway, I've made some more progress on the SMT 2n2/40+. One section is
>>entirely SMT, the IF Amp. Here is a pic:
>>
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/files/2N240-Pictures/N1QO/if-amp-1.jpg
>
>
>>I'm getting +38db from it, which seems close enough to the spec.
>>
>>Other new pics:
>>
>>Close up of the VFO with annotations:
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/files/2N240-Pictures/N1QO/vfo-close-up.jpg
>
>
>>Variable filter and Mixer amp:
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/files/2N240-Pictures/N1QO/mixer-amp.jpg
>
>
>>73,
>>
>>John, N1QO
>>--
>>John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
>>Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>>
>>
>>
>>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ >
>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ >
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com |
2308|2304|2002-10-04 19:04:20|Delbert Long|Re: more SMT pics|John and Gang:
I used SMT Schottky diodes in my mixers, except for the TX. Sure wish I had
seen your pictures earlier, I like the way you "split" the pads...I just
made the gap between two pads as small as I could.
Also, in your VFO photo, I see a transformer...I wound all of mine with the
secondary wires spread out over the primary, and I see yours on either side.
Does that make any difference in performance, or is it just a matter of
preference?
I've almost got mine in the enclosure...photos should be soon.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspxHey Del,
I'm pretty sure it doesn't make a difference. I'm not an engineer (well,
not an EE anyway!), but I recall us having discussions about this on the
list and the general consensus as I remember it was that it didn't
matter, there is current all over the toroid.
FWIW, for the SMD 2n2222's, I used a tri-cut pad - works like a champ! I
got the idea of splicing pads from something Chuck Adams, K7QO had
posted for creating pads for IC's.
73,
John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
> John and Gang:
>
> I used SMT Schottky diodes in my mixers, except for the TX. Sure wish I had
> seen your pictures earlier, I like the way you "split" the pads...I just
> made the gap between two pads as small as I could.
>
> Also, in your VFO photo, I see a transformer...I wound all of mine with the
> secondary wires spread out over the primary, and I see yours on either side.
> Does that make any difference in performance, or is it just a matter of
> preference?
>
> I've almost got mine in the enclosure...photos should be soon.
>
>
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI just finished up the product detector using the dual hot carrier
diodes. Instead of using seperate pads, I opted to etch out one pad and
mount both diodes to it. Here is a pic of the board before mounting the
diodes;
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/files/2N240-Pictures/N1QO/pd-emptyboard.jpg Here is a shot of the diodes mounted to the board;
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/files/2N240-Pictures/N1QO/pd-wdiodes.jpg After that, I finished cutting out the "big" pad and mounted it to the
main board, adding the connections to T9 and C28;
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/files/2N240-Pictures/N1QO/pd-inplace.jpg The spot in the middle between T9-3 and T9-6 is where R26 will go and
then on to the audio amp. Also, the macro capability of the new camera
is great. Look at the front of the pad - you can see the super glue
oozing out! Also, C28 is tough to see, it's standing straight up, sort
of behind the pad.
After snapping those pics, I started into the Rx LO. Hope to find some
time this weekend and get that done, then on to the audio amp and
hopefully hearing some signals!
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comYou mean the Energizer bunny doesn't keep it going and going and going and
........... ?
Dick K2JQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] more SMT pics
> Only thing to run in digital cameras, unless you own stock in
> a battery company.
Oooooo.........nice wifey, nice wifey.
You'd better take care of THAT girl ! ( - :)
73
Dick K2JQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "john" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 11:02 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] more SMT pics
> Got my new digital camera last night. It EATS batteries like you
> wouldn't believe. My wife is picking me up some 1800mAH rechargables
> today...
Does anyone have any 560 ohm SMD (preferably 1206) resistors available?
I seem to have misread my own handwriting (don't ask) and never ordered any.
Will buy, trade, etc... thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi John, I have a few (maybe 10) in 0805 size. lf you want them, let me know how many and the address. I'll pop them in the mail tomorrow - no charge. Check and see if there are any others you may need.
73 and have a great weekend,
Dov Rabinowitz. ad0v
>>> john@wagner-usa.net 10/05/02 09:52AM >>>
Does anyone have any 560 ohm SMD (preferably 1206) resistors available?
I seem to have misread my own handwriting (don't ask) and never ordered any.
Will buy, trade, etc... thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~-->
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Hey Dov,
I sure could use a couple - thanks very much. Address sent via email.
73,
John, N1QO
Basil Rabinowitz wrote:
> Hi John, I have a few (maybe 10) in 0805 size. lf you want them, let me know how many and the address. I'll pop them in the mail tomorrow - no charge. Check and see if there are any others you may need.
>
>
> 73 and have a great weekend,
>
> Dov Rabinowitz. ad0v
>
>
>>>>john@wagner-usa.net 10/05/02 09:52AM >>>
>>>
> Does anyone have any 560 ohm SMD (preferably 1206) resistors available?
> I seem to have misread my own handwriting (don't ask) and never ordered any.
>
> Will buy, trade, etc... thanks es 73,
>
> John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI got the radio in the enclosure...hooray - it actually fits into the
Altoids can (the big one of course). Haven't built the RIT yet, but
I think I'll be able to squeeze that in as well. Pictures will be
coming shortly...
I still need to get the VFO fine-tuned. Can't remember which
components and trimmers control the spread / linearity, etc...also
there was a resistor that needed to be changed in order to accomodate
a 2K pot for the main tuning. If I recall correctly it was supposed
to be a 1.5k resistor...I have a 2.2k trimpot in
there...appropriately enough it is marked 222.
Had fun working the Spartan Sprint last night. Managed 11 QSO's, and
later on I worked VE7BGJ in British Columbia. Not bad, considering
I've got the thing cranked down to about 1 or 1 1/2 watts out. And I
can't put up any permanent antennas, so I just use a half-wave wire,
end fed. Gotta take the thing to the park and put up something
bigger so I can get those JL's and JH's that I can hear in the early
AM!
Thinking about making another Receiver to tune the phone
portion...any suggestions on a TX project to go with it? I think I'm
hooked.
72, 73...
Del, AD6WE
|
2317|2317|2002-10-14 09:01:50|wa0rse|Starting first build!|I might be the last of the Fall 2001 group to start my 2n2-40
build! I'm using the forum archives to learn from all of you that
have gone before. I'll post bits of my journey as I go and maybe a
few questions as well!
The first gem I found was "Ignore the schematics in the little
book and use the new schematics as your bible." With that in
mind and with the 8 board sections from the little book, I began
trying to make sense of what parts I had in hand and what I still
needed. I was lucky enough to have been in on the 'group buys'
and had set aside in a separate box one of the cap kits, a
transistor/diode kit, a 10T pot/turns counter, a couple of filter
kits, a kit of 'hard to find parts', torroid cores, and the Manhattan
construction starter kit. I knew I needed resistors and went
through the original BOM to generate a list of what I needed. (A
mistake.) Off went an order to Jameco.
I then took a step backward without realizing it. I looked at the
board sections from the book and drew boundaries around
those sections on the new schematic pages, using the input
and output connections from the drawings of the sections as a
guide. I then went through each of those pieces of the schematic
and generated a component list for each section. I then
transferred each component list into a BOM (e.g., "2 - 2.7K
resistors"), putting each section's BOM on a separate 3x5 index
card. I got out 8- 1qt freezer ZipLock bags and labelled them for
the section, e.g. "IF", "PA", "EF", etc. Using the BOM cards as
guides, I made up parts bags for each of the sections on the
board. That way, what I had was grouped according to when I'd
need it during the build and what I didn't have was clear.
I'm still having a bit of trouble getting the cap kit contents
parcelled out properly since the designators with that kit were
relative to the old schematics. We'll figure it out!
I have a Harbor Freight punch on the way and plan to use round
pads for most of the construction.
I'll attempt to post pictures of my progress!
72
Paul, wa0rse
|
2318|2318|2002-10-14 09:09:11|wa0rse|Dual filter question|I purchased both the fixed and variable filter kits from Jim Kortge,
K8IQY, and am interested in building both on the board and
switching between the two. Has anyone done this already? How
would the group suggest I modify the board layout to
accommodate both and the 'switch'? I have the 6x9 Manhattan
starter kit boards that I'm thinking of using as-is to give me a bit
more real estate.
72,
--Paul, wa0rse
|
2319|2318|2002-10-14 18:49:21|Lee Mairs|Re: Dual filter question|Paul -
I did the same thing with an eye towards adding them both to the board. The
radio works good enough without it. I used the VBW filter in my 2N2-40. I
remember talking to Jim at Atlanticon about how/why one would use both
filters, but I can't remember the details.
Maybe he will chime in with the definitive answer when he gets off that bike
again!
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "wa0rse" <beckmann@acm.org>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 9:09 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Dual filter question
> I purchased both the fixed and variable filter kits from Jim Kortge,
> K8IQY, and am interested in building both on the board and
> switching between the two. Has anyone done this already? How
> would the group suggest I modify the board layout to
> accommodate both and the 'switch'? I have the 6x9 Manhattan
> starter kit boards that I'm thinking of using as-is to give me a bit
> more real estate.
>
> 72,
>
> --Paul, wa0rse
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hey Paul,
wa0rse wrote:
> I might be the last of the Fall 2001 group to start my 2n2-40
> build! I'm using the forum archives to learn from all of you that
> have gone before. I'll post bits of my journey as I go and maybe a
> few questions as well!
I found the archives were a great resource when I started back into the
2n2-40+ SMT I'm building. We sure did cover a lot of stuff!
> I then took a step backward without realizing it. I looked at the
> board sections from the book and drew boundaries around
> those sections on the new schematic pages, using the input
I did this on my first one -- end result; not a big deal.
> I'm still having a bit of trouble getting the cap kit contents
> parcelled out properly since the designators with that kit were
> relative to the old schematics. We'll figure it out!
I think we all had this cap kit and if I remember correctly, it worked
out fb.
>
> I have a Harbor Freight punch on the way and plan to use round
> pads for most of the construction.
>
> I'll attempt to post pictures of my progress!
Good deal, can't wait to see 'em!
73,
John, N1QO
>
> 72
> Paul, wa0rse
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 01:09 PM 10/14/02 +0000, Paul, wa0rse wrote:
>I purchased both the fixed and variable filter kits from Jim Kortge,
>K8IQY, and am interested in building both on the board and
>switching between the two. Has anyone done this already?
Not that I've seen. You can be pioneer Paul! :-)
>How
>would the group suggest I modify the board layout to
>accommodate both and the 'switch'?
I'd build the variable on the main substrate, and put the second
filter components on another piece of PC board material, sized so
that it can be mounted above the variable filter. The switching can
be done with a DPDT throw switch, with the common pin of one section
handling the input from the mixer amp, essentially the junction of
C40/R38, and the other common pin the output by connecting it to
the primary of T7. One filter then is wired to the normally open
pins of the switch, and the other filter to the normally closed.
I see in the diagrams the I have of the two filters that I included
the matching sections on the fixed filter so that its input and output
impedances are the same as the VBW filter. Guess I must have thought
about this possibility at some point! :-)
> I have the 6x9 Manhattan
>starter kit boards that I'm thinking of using as-is to give me a bit
>more real estate.
Not a bad idea for a first go at this kind of construction. GL with
you build, and am most anxious to see those pictures start rolling in.
BTW, anybody on the list interested in seeing the pictures of the 2N2/30
that I started building? Jeff Hecht, K8GD wanted to build one and we got
him started, but then I started thinking I'd maybe better build one too
just to see if there were any "gotchas" floating around. Of course, I've
made some slight changes to some of the circuits after doing more thinking
and modeling, but nothing major. I've got it built up to the receive
DBM, which was a no brainer, as I opted to try out one of the ADE-1
SMT mixers that I had. At $2.00 each, they sure are nice, and work well.
Tomorrow I should have the IF amplifier done, and maybe the LO and
product detector, which may use another ADE-1, but maybe I'll save it
for the Tx mixer.
The 2N2/30 uses a fixed, 500 Hz filter, and it sure sounds great.
Very sharp with 4 poles.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 06:49 PM 10/14/02 -0400, Lee, KM4YY wrote:
>Paul -
>I did the same thing with an eye towards adding them both to the board. The
>radio works good enough without it. I used the VBW filter in my 2N2-40. I
>remember talking to Jim at Atlanticon about how/why one would use both
>filters, but I can't remember the details.
I think we talked about using them separately, and in cascade. The
cascade version would provide better selectivity, but the insertion
loss of the second filter might require an addition boost in gain
somewhere. Just running one or the other is the simpler implementation.
>Maybe he will chime in with the definitive answer when he gets off that bike
>again!
I'm off more than on these days! Starting to get too cool for comfortable
riding. I like it hot!! :-) However, it beats winter by a huge margin.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>Jim Kortge, K8IQY wrote:
> >
> > BTW, anybody on the list interested in seeing the pictures of the > >
>2N2/30
> > that I started building?
Is this one of those "trick questions"??
. Now that it has slowed
down at work and such, I should be getting the 2N2/15 RX aligned here this
week! FYI, the RX board is done, but need to align it and "troubleshoot"
it, i.e. find and fix my screwups !
72 es oo
Dennis - WB0WAO
NJQRP #329
FPQRP #-347
SOC #499
FISTS # 9299
GACW #622
ARS #1363
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspxAt 04:07 AM 10/15/02 +0000, you wrote:
> >Jim Kortge, K8IQY wrote:
> > >
> > > BTW, anybody on the list interested in seeing the pictures of the > >
> >2N2/30
> > > that I started building?
>
>Is this one of those "trick questions"?? .
Wasn't intended to be! :-) I just thought I'd ask before spending
the time to upload the pix. Don't have any schematics yet, doing
the building from hand sketches and modelling output. So far,
so good!
> Now that it has slowed
>down at work and such, I should be getting the 2N2/15 RX aligned here this
>week! FYI, the RX board is done, but need to align it and "troubleshoot"
>it, i.e. find and fix my screwups !
Keep me posted. I need to work up the transmit strip for that rig too,
so you aren't stuck with only a receiver.
72 and TTUL,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
As requested, the images of the 2N2/30 that I am building are now on
the Yahoo 2N2-40 web page, under the photo section. There are
10 images, and more will be added as I complete more of the rig.
I'll also try to get those portions of the schematics into the
files areas as they are drawn up. I haven't started that activity
yet; I'm building from hand drawn schematics, and output from
the EWB modelling program.
72 and enjoy,
Jim, K8IQY
PS.....notice that quite a few SMT resistors and capacitors have
been used in this version.
|
2327|2283|2002-10-15 05:19:33|wb0wao|2N2/30|Jim,
Man that is pretty.... You _ARE_ the master of manhattan!!!!!
Gives me something to shoot for!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
2328|2326|2002-10-15 07:24:44|wa0rse|Re: 2N2/30 Images|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "k8iqy"
wrote:
> Gang,
>
> As requested, the images of the 2N2/30 that I am building are
now on
> the Yahoo 2N2-40 web page, under the photo section.
>
Thanks!
I noticed that you mechanically fixed the main VFO coil to the
board in this version. Should I try to do the same with my 2n2-40
build? I've noticed this technique in other kits and I think its
supposed to enhance VFO stability under mechanical vibration.
73
--Paul
P.S. What sort of lighting do you use for your photos?? It sure
works and I want to use it when I take mine!At 11:24 AM 10/15/02 +0000, Paul, WA0RSE wrote:
>--- In 2n2-40@y..., "k8iqy" wrote:
> > Gang,
> >
> > As requested, the images of the 2N2/30 that I am building are
>now on
> > the Yahoo 2N2-40 web page, under the photo section.
> >
>Thanks!
> I noticed that you mechanically fixed the main VFO coil to the
>board in this version. Should I try to do the same with my 2n2-40
>build?
Yes. I use a #8 shouldered washer under and on top of the toroid
to hold it down. The screw is nylon. Don't use a metal screw through
the center of the toroid, it will screw up the tuning big time. You
can't put the toroid down tight to the metal surface of the substrate
either for the same reason. The leaking magnetic flux starts
producing currents in the copper layer.
> I've noticed this technique in other kits and I think its
>supposed to enhance VFO stability under mechanical vibration.
Indeed it will!!
>73
>--Paul
>P.S. What sort of lighting do you use for your photos??
Outside in the shade, with the flash running to fill in the areas
the are shadowed. Seems to produce the best photos. I've tried
it indoors with artificial light and don't like the results, either
with incandescent, or flourescent
> It sure
>works and I want to use it when I take mine!
Having a decent camera is also important. I use an Olympus C2100UZ
which has a really nice lens on it. 10X optical zoom too, so you can
be away from the board, and still get what you want in the picture.
I wish they still made the camera, I'd buy another one as a spare.
72 and GL Paul,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I've added two more images to the set. These are of the
receive IF strip, which by the way, is working like a champ.
On to the product detector!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
2331|2330|2002-10-15 21:05:41|john|Re: More 2N2/30 Images|Darn that's pretty. You are a master Jim, no doubt in my mind.
I like your use of SMT parts, very cleanly done.
I've got my 2n2/40+ SMT done up to the audio amp. I'll upload some shots
tomorrow if I get time. The audio amp is a little "loose" in the layout,
works FB though.
73,
John, N1QO
k8iqy wrote:
> Gang,
>
> I've added two more images to the set. These are of the
> receive IF strip, which by the way, is working like a champ.
>
> On to the product detector!!
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim...
Have you finished the TX on the 2N2/15? So far I have only seen information
about the receiver.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Get a speedy connection with MSN Broadband.� Join now!
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/freeactivation.aspJim...
I sent this question before but didn't get any reply...seems like everyone
was off the planet for a few days...was it the baseball playoffs?
Which trimmers adjust the low and high limits ... and linearity...I've let
that go until now...
Also, what value resistor should I use if I put a 5K ten-turn pot in the
main tuning?
Anyone going to be at Pacificon? I won't be able to make it, but I could
have a buddy bring my 2N2/40 along in case anyone would like to see it close
up. (Shameless Boast)
72, 73
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963At 06:21 PM 10/15/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Jim...
>
>Have you finished the TX on the 2N2/15? So far I have only seen information
>about the receiver.
>
>
>
>Delbert Long, AD6WE
Hi Del,
No......I haven't finished the Tx strip for the 2N2/15 yet. That's
on the "to do" list, but I haven't gotten to it. Kinda over due too,
as Dennis has build the receiver, and is getting that going. He'll
be needing the Tx RF strip in a few weeks, so I need to get back on
the 2N2/15 soon. Too many projects, to little time, and I'm retired
to boot! :-)
72 and thanks for asking,
Jim, K8IQY
At 06:31 PM 10/15/02 -0700, Delbert Long, AD6WE wrote:
>Jim...
>
>I sent this question before but didn't get any reply...seems like everyone
>was off the planet for a few days...was it the baseball playoffs?
Not me....I don't pay any attention to baseball, or a lot of other
sports on TV. In fact, I don't watch TV except for one or two
programs a week. Too many other "more fun" things to to. Sorry
I missed the inquiry before. Must have been napping! :-)
>Which trimmers adjust the low and high limits ... and linearity...I've let
>that go until now...
TC4 sets the location of the tuning range, both the high end and the
low, i.e., it moves the whole tuning range up and down. The tuning
range is set by TC3. More capacitance makes it wider, and less makes
it narrower. There is interaction between the two, so if you make
an adjustment in TC3, you'll need to readjust TC4 to put the tuning
back to where you want it.
As for linearity, that's handled by the size of R10, across part of
the tuning pot. The easiest way to determine what size it should be
is to get the VFO set to the span you want, say 100 KHz, and tuning
from 7.000 to 7.100 MHz, then set the tuning pot to its middle, or
5 turns, for a 10 turn pot, and then find a value of resistor that
puts the VFO on 7.050 MHz. Simple as that! The best linearity will
be off a few percent at some points, but others will be right on.
>Also, what value resistor should I use if I put a 5K ten-turn pot in the
>main tuning?
You don't need to do anything with R1, and select R10 using the method
described above.
>Anyone going to be at Pacificon?
No, wish I was, but other priorities prevent it again this year. Bummer!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi all,
I'm new to the group, and uninformed of course. I found and
downloaded the schematics; visited Jim's site at QSL.net - I'm sure
this is in one of the posts, but haven't run across it - where can I
find a reprint of the build up procedure?
TIA & 73,
Jim KI8H (former WD8DWS)
|
2337|2336|2002-10-17 00:33:38|Dennis Ponsness|Re: Build up article|Jim,
Welcome to the group! You will have a blast building up this rig and it
is a superb performer! What most of us did was order the reprint of the
QRPp "book" about the "original" 2N2/40. This is, IMHO, a must have if you
are going to build one up. The updated schematics are located in the group
site, so you will want to print them out. Use them instead of the
schematics in the book. Next, start going thru the archived posts and
print out the ones that pertain to the section that you will be working on.
Most of all, have fun!!!
72 es oo
Dennis - WB0WAO
NJQRP #329
FPQRP #-347
SOC #499
FISTS # 9299
GACW #622
ARS #1363
_________________________________________________________________
Unlimited Internet access -- and 2 months free!� Try MSN.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.aspJim,
Search the archives for "NA5N" - the QRPp reprint is available from him.
I think the cost is $12.
Remember to only use it as a guide, the 2n2/40+ is slightly different
from the one in that article!
73,
John, N1QO
wd8dws wrote:
> Hi all,
> I'm new to the group, and uninformed of course. I found and
> downloaded the schematics; visited Jim's site at QSL.net - I'm sure
> this is in one of the posts, but haven't run across it - where can I
> find a reprint of the build up procedure?
> TIA & 73,
> Jim KI8H (former WD8DWS)
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWhile I agree with everything Dennis said, let me add a warning to NOT rely
on the book. You should only refer to the new schematics - especially when
asking questions of the group. I got myself wound tighter than a drum when
trying to debug an early mistake and getting confused between the parts
designation difficulties. I'm not denigrating the book. I found it
excellent to get the juices flowing as well as get an over-all picture of
what I had to do. Well worth the price!
Second, there are excellent pictures of completed sections on the 2N2 web
sight. Use these to help get you going with an initial layout.
Third, and MOST IMPORTANT, invest in some magnet wire in different colors
before you try and wire some of the trifilar toroids. I wasted days trying
to find out why a section wasn't working - including testing the toroid
transformer with an ohm meter at least 5 times before I found the error. I
think Dan's Small Parts as a cheap balanced mixer magnet wire kit. If only
someone had told me, my 2N2-40 serial number would have been a half dozen
lower!
This is the greatest accomplishment I've had in ham radio - simultaneously
frustrating and fun! Every time I turn the durned thing on I am amazed to
hear CW. Thankfully, the bike season is over in northern eight land, so I
can get the iron warmed up to build Jim's 2N2-30!
73 de Lee
KM4YY
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Ponsness" <wb0wao@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 12:33 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Build up article
> Jim,
> Welcome to the group! You will have a blast building up this rig and
it
> is a superb performer! What most of us did was order the reprint of the
> QRPp "book" about the "original" 2N2/40. This is, IMHO, a must have if
you
> are going to build one up. The updated schematics are located in the
group
> site, so you will want to print them out. Use them instead of the
> schematics in the book. Next, start going thru the archived posts and
> print out the ones that pertain to the section that you will be working
on.
> Most of all, have fun!!!
>
> 72 es oo
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>
> NJQRP #329
> FPQRP #-347
> SOC #499
> FISTS # 9299
> GACW #622
> ARS #1363
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Unlimited Internet access -- and 2 months free! Try MSN.
> http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Thanks to all!
I will definitely heed the good advice and look for the reprint. I
am quite familiar with "evolving" designs; as I am confronted with
them in my work as a compliance engineer. Thanks for the tip on
winding toroids, too - I'm sure the cost of multi colored wire is
more than offset by the missed frustration. BTW there is an
excellant enameled wire source at www.parawire.com - seems that the
crafter ladies are using all kinds of colors for making jewelry and
what not - so much the better for us!
I look forward to the build; of course I have a few ideas of my
own too - I'm not sold on the Manhattan style of construction.
Perhaps I will try my favorite -"New England" style!
KI8H Jim
|
2341|2340|2002-10-17 12:26:48|john|Re: Good advice and fine welcome!!|wd8dws wrote:
> more than offset by the missed frustration. BTW there is an
> excellant enameled wire source at www.parawire.com - seems that the
> crafter ladies are using all kinds of colors for making jewelry and
> what not - so much the better for us!
Wow! What a find! I'm going to order a 6-pack of "neon" in #26 - 315ft
on each roll, and it's only $15 (+shipping).
Thanks for the pointer Jim.
> I look forward to the build; of course I have a few ideas of my
> own too - I'm not sold on the Manhattan style of construction.
> Perhaps I will try my favorite -"New England" style!
That would be "creamy" instead of "red", yes? [I only eat NE style
chowder, but am told there are others]
73,
John, N1QO
>
> KI8H Jim
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comFirst to John - glad to be of assistance, I stumbled on the wire deal
while looking for antenna wire.
Second - I am just starting to collect parts - but if Jim still has a
VBWF kit left from last year - pse reply and I'll zip out a check.
Otherwise, I will need a reference to a post explaining how to test,
sort and build the filter.
TIA
Jim KI8H (former WD8DWS)
|
2343|2343|2002-10-17 19:19:51|wd8dws|NA5N e-mail, snail mail??|Sorry to be such a pest, but my e-mail request to NA5N was returned
no such user "
na5n@rt66.net.
Does anyone have a current e mail or snail mail address?? I reallly
need to order the reprint of the original article. Maybe I should
check on QRPp website - forgot to try that first.
TIA
Jim KI8H
na5n@zianet.com This is his current email address. I just got a post from him via the QRP-L
mailing list. This is another good source for info on building small stuff.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "wd8dws" <wd8dws@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 7:19 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] NA5N e-mail, snail mail??
> Sorry to be such a pest, but my e-mail request to NA5N was returned
> no such user "na5n@rt66.net.
>
> Does anyone have a current e mail or snail mail address?? I reallly
> need to order the reprint of the original article. Maybe I should
> check on QRPp website - forgot to try that first.
> TIA
> Jim KI8H
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
|
2345|2345|2002-10-17 21:56:18|Jake Carter, N4UY|Worst 2N2-40 enclosure, de N4UY|I'm submitting my entry for the worst 2N2-40 enclosure contest:-)
It's at
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/jakeycarter/2N2case1.jpg Its not pretty but it works!! I only built up the receiver -- have
lots of 40m xmtrs. I got tired of using my Neophyte DC receiver and
decided to get the 2N2-40 receiver working and usable. Had a QSO
yesterday with a QRPper in Boston. He was using 500 milliwatts and
was 449 on the 2N2-40 here in Northern Va -- good receiver!
Here is my 2N2-40/Ugly Weekender set up.
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/jakeycarter/UW2N2op1.jpg Ignore the FT-990 -- its a piece of test gear :-)
73,
Jake -- N4UY
And the Party Never Ends.
-Robert Earle Keene
I wanted to get the bandspread correct - it was tuning from about
7.000 to 7.195 or so - maybe that was good enough.
Anyhow, I found a replacement trimmer for TC3, and an actual 120 pF
cap to go in parallel instead of the two that I had in parallel
before. Didn't make much difference, so I took a turn off of L1.
That was a mistake...should be adding a turn if I want to increase
the spread. So...I took L1 off and rewound it completely. Using
smaller guage wire this time, so the 44 turns fit easily instead of
having to crowd it like before. Only had to start over one time
because of breaking the wire.
Now the VFO doesn't. I will re-check everything, but I'm worried
that my iron might have gotten too close to D7. I'll check the
voltages. I've been going scopeless, haven't been able to connect
with my scopeful ham friend.
Learning is what it's all about!
72, 73...
Del, AD6WE
|
2347|2347|2002-10-17 22:38:16|Delbert Long|Jim's Quickies?|Seems to me that I saw some simple troubleshooting circuits in here
somewhere, an audio oscillator, etc...
Can't seem to locate them now...would someone tell me where to look?
Thanks,
Del, AD6WE
|
2348|2348|2002-10-18 09:14:34|k8iqy|2N2/30 Product Detector|Gang,
The product detector has been designed and built, and photos
have been added. I just had to try winding a trifilar core
using parallel #30 wires, just to prove to myself that it
could be done. The diodes are HP 2800 series, mixer diodes,
not ordinary 1N4148, although those would work fine too.
I've had these kicking around, and decided to put them to
work before they got moldy, or thrown away by accident.
72 and enjoy,
Jim, K8IQY
|
2349|2347|2002-10-18 09:23:45|john|Re: Jim's Quickies?|Del,
I believe you're referring to Joe's Quickies (from the NJQRP Club).
http://www.njqrp.org/ - I built his audio amp oscillator and have used
it twice to trouble shoot amps.
73,
John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
> Seems to me that I saw some simple troubleshooting circuits in here
> somewhere, an audio oscillator, etc...
>
> Can't seem to locate them now...would someone tell me where to look?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comDelbert Long wrote:
> And the Party Never Ends.
> -Robert Earle Keene
>
> I wanted to get the bandspread correct - it was tuning from about
> 7.000 to 7.195 or so - maybe that was good enough.
Do you mean 7 - 7.095 Mhz? If so, that would have been good enough for
me too.
> Anyhow, I found a replacement trimmer for TC3, and an actual 120 pF
> cap to go in parallel instead of the two that I had in parallel
> before. Didn't make much difference, so I took a turn off of L1.
> That was a mistake...should be adding a turn if I want to increase
> the spread. So...I took L1 off and rewound it completely. Using
> smaller guage wire this time, so the 44 turns fit easily instead of
> having to crowd it like before. Only had to start over one time
> because of breaking the wire.
>
> Now the VFO doesn't. I will re-check everything, but I'm worried
A scope is real handy during these times.
Check the DC voltages of the transistors against those in the new
schematics. That may help you get close to the problem.
Good luck.
73,
John, N1QO
> that my iron might have gotten too close to D7. I'll check the
> voltages. I've been going scopeless, haven't been able to connect
> with my scopeful ham friend.
>
> Learning is what it's all about!
>
> 72, 73...
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim -
I remember that hot carrier diodes are good for either detectors or mixers,
but not both. Can you tell me which is which and why? I got some SMD
MBD301s from Del last spring, but I think they are recommended for detector
use only.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "k8iqy" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 9:14 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2/30 Product Detector
> Gang,
>
> The product detector has been designed and built, and photos
> have been added. I just had to try winding a trifilar core
> using parallel #30 wires, just to prove to myself that it
> could be done. The diodes are HP 2800 series, mixer diodes,
> not ordinary 1N4148, although those would work fine too.
> I've had these kicking around, and decided to put them to
> work before they got moldy, or thrown away by accident.
>
> 72 and enjoy,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Jim -
The dogs are all drooling out here in the yard! How about throwing us a
bone? Like maybe a parts list or the toroid specs so we can get started
doing something on our 2N2-30s?
Lee, km4yy
----- Original Message -----
From: "k8iqy" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 9:14 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2/30 Product Detector
> Gang,
>
> The product detector has been designed and built, and photos
> have been added. I just had to try winding a trifilar core
> using parallel #30 wires, just to prove to myself that it
> could be done. The diodes are HP 2800 series, mixer diodes,
> not ordinary 1N4148, although those would work fine too.
> I've had these kicking around, and decided to put them to
> work before they got moldy, or thrown away by accident.
>
> 72 and enjoy,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--- In 2n2-40@y..., john
wrote:
> Jake Carter, N4UY wrote:
> > I'm submitting my entry for the worst 2N2-40 enclosure contest:-)
> >
> > It's at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/jakeycarter/2N2case1.jpg
>
> Nice box Jake!!! ;) Is that masking tape? :)
Yep, John, it masking tape -- amazing how useful that stuff is :-)
Did you notice my calibrated dial? Again, very rough but works well -
- must be a testiment to Jim's fine design.
> Hey, if it works, go with it! Don't leave it out in the rain
though, it
> will probably swell!
>
> Hope to work you again sometime (been a while).
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
I plan to use this Ugly Weekender/2N2-40 set up in the QRP ARCI QSO
Party this weekend -- maybe I'll C U there.
73,
Jake, N4UYHi Jim and Gang,
I've some 9.8304 MHz and 4.1943 Xtals and wish to use
them in the VBW filter. (9.8304-LO 2.8304 and 4.1943+
LO 2.8057)
My Questions are :-(a) Which combination is better?
(b) Do I have to change the value
of C35 and c22?
Thanks de Harry
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now!
http://personals.yahoo.caAt 03:48 PM 10/18/02 -0400, Harry Leung wrote:
>Hi Jim and Gang,
>
>I've some 9.8304 MHz and 4.1943 Xtals and wish to use
>them in the VBW filter. (9.8304-LO 2.8304 and 4.1943+
>LO 2.8057)
>
>My Questions are :-(a) Which combination is better?
Without question the 4.1943 MHz crystals, all else being equal.
They are much closer to the original frequency, and therefore
require the smallest component changes. However, without knowing
the characteristics of the crystals, it is only a crap shoot
regarding how the filter characteristics will actually change.
> (b) Do I have to change the value
>of C35 and c22?
Yes, and the value of R38 and the primary of T7 too. Here is
what I would use. C35 and C22 - 220 pF (211 pF computed value),
R38 - 220 ohms (230 ohms computed value), and T7 primary - 13 turns
(13.3 turns computed value). Anybody want to venture a guess how
all those values came about? Hint: It has to do with frequency ratios.
You may also have to change several of the capacitors in the VFO to make
it tune the correct range. They can be frequency scaled too.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 11:11 PM 10/17/02 +0000, Jim KI8H wrote:
>-snip-
>
>Second - I am just starting to collect parts - but if Jim still has a
>VBWF kit left from last year - pse reply and I'll zip out a check.
I have all of the parts for the filter except the POT2 pot. If you
want a VBWF kit without the pot, send a check and I'll put one together
for you. I'll throw in an extra MV1662 to use in the VFO in place of the
MVAM109 and the white toroid core for L1 to make up the difference.
>
>Otherwise, I will need a reference to a post explaining how to test,
>sort and build the filter.
Impossible to do without a lot of graphics. I don't think my paper
from Atlanticon is on the web, but you can get a reprint of the
proceedings from NJ QRP Club. That will explain how to measure
the crystal parameters, and sort the units. Designing the filter is
plugging the parameter values into the proper equations, and out
pops the design.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> I have all of the parts for the filter except the POT2 pot. If you
> want a VBWF kit without the pot, send a check and I'll put one
snip.....>
Deal, Jim Is the price still only $9.00 ? Does that include shipping?
I assume you're gud in the callbook and QRZ.
Jim KI8H--- "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <
jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
At 03:48 PM 10/18/02 -0400, Harry Leung wrote:
>Hi Jim and Gang,
>
>I've some 9.8304 MHz and 4.1943 Xtals and wish to
use
>them in the VBW filter. (9.8304-LO 2.8304 and
4.1943+
>LO 2.8057)
>
>My Questions are :-(a) Which combination is
better?
Without question the 4.1943 MHz crystals, all else
being equal.
They are much closer to the original frequency, and
therefore
require the smallest component changes. However,
without knowing
the characteristics of the crystals, it is only a crap
shoot
regarding how the filter characteristics will actually
change.
>
(b) Do I have to change the value
>of C35 and c22?
Yes, and the value of R38 and the primary of T7
too. Here is
what I would use. C35 and C22 - 220 pF (211 pF
computed value),
R38 - 220 ohms (230 ohms computed value), and T7
primary - 13 turns
(13.3 turns computed value). Anybody want to
venture a guess how
all those values came about? Hint: It has
to do with frequency ratios.
You may also have to change several of the capacitors
in the VFO to make
it tune the correct range. They can be frequency
scaled too.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Jim,
I am glad you have the VBW filter kit on hand. I would
like to know what is the price to send it to Canada,
and how many Xtals and parts are in the kit except
POT2.
Thanks a lot,
de Harry.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo! Terms
of Service. ______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now!
http://personals.yahoo.caGang,
I've added two additional photos to the 2N2/30 album, they
are of the Local Oscillator.
You will also receive an automatically generated email from
the 2N2-40 group regarding the first two pages of schematics
for the 2N2/30 rig. I've got one more to draw, and it will be up
to date with what has been designed and built so far. It may
be time to move all of this material over to another group,
since maybe not everyone on the 2N2-40 group is interested.
Comments? Pro/Con
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS.....been a long day!!
|
2363|2362|2002-10-19 00:37:48|Dennis Ponsness|Re: 2N2/30 Additional photos|Jim, et al....
I think that they should stay in this group, after all, a lot of the info
in the archives would be invaluable to building up a 2N2/30 or /15 or
whatever band it is. It would be your "one stop source" for the 2N2/xx
family of rigs. Just my thoughts.....
72 es oo
Dennis - WB0WAO
NJQRP #329
FPQRP #-347
SOC #499
FISTS # 9299
GACW #622
ARS #1363
_________________________________________________________________
Unlimited Internet access for only $21.95/month.� Try MSN!
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.aspGang,
If you downloaded or made a copy of 2N2/30 schematic #2, do it
again. There were some minor errors on the first one that I
posted. Those have been fixed, and I think it is OK now. There
are no revision numbers at this point, as the design is developing.
You'll just have to check back occasionally to see if you have the
latest version.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
2365|2364|2002-10-19 06:21:12|Dennis Ponsness|Re: Revised 2N2/30 Schematic #2|AHHH Jim, now you went and did it!! Looks like I will be building one of
these too (after the /15 is done of course)! Gotta start going thru the
parts to see what I have and what I need.... Will the madness ever stop....
72 es oo
Dennis - WB0WAO
NJQRP #329
FPQRP #-347
SOC #499
FISTS # 9299
GACW #622
ARS #1363
_________________________________________________________________
Get faster connections�-- switch to�MSN Internet Access!
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.aspAt 10:22 AM 10/18/02 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim -
>The dogs are all drooling out here in the yard! How about throwing us a
>bone? Like maybe a parts list or the toroid specs so we can get started
>doing something on our 2N2-30s?
>Lee, km4yy
Did I supply enough info to keep you happy for the moment? Gosh
you guys are hard on me! :-)
72, and start building buddy
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Guys.
With all of this talk about 2N2/30's, I thought I would let the rest
of you know how my progress is coming, since I have only really been
in contact with Jim.
I have everything completed through the DB mixer. I used 1N5711's
for the diode ring and the FT37-43's for the cores. I didn't use the
attenuator shown in the new schematics, since I wasn't using an ADE-1
mixer. I hope to have the rest of the Rx portion completed this
weekend (kids and parts permitting of course).
I'm also building mine on small circuit boards. The VFO is on it's
own, and the Rx, Tx, and audio stages each on their own board as well.
I just wanted to try something different.
My VFO design is slightly different than the one Jim posted. I had
scaled it and built it before Jim had jumped in with both feet :) It
is rock solid stable.
I'll keep up with the progress report.
Best 72 all and looking forward to some 2N2/30 QSO's!
Jeff - K8GD
|
2368|2348|2002-10-19 09:12:04|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N2/30 Product Detector|At 10:15 AM 10/18/02 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim -
>I remember that hot carrier diodes are good for either detectors or mixers,
>but not both. Can you tell me which is which and why?
Not any more. Most of that knowledge is long gone.
> I got some SMD
>MBD301s from Del last spring, but I think they are recommended for detector
>use only.
Yes, those have minority carrier lifetimes spec'ed according to the
liturature I could find on them, but I'll bet at HF they would
work just fine for mixing applications. I'm guessing the fine
points between mixer vs. detectors are important only at GHz microwave
frequencies. At HF, I'll bet there isn't a hoot of a difference in
performance. As long as they are low forward drop, can handle the
current, are low capacitance and fast switching, they should make
dandy DBMs.
Maybe someone smarter and me can shed some light on this one.
Back to building my 2N2/30.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 10:57 PM 10/18/02 +0000, you wrote:
>"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > I have all of the parts for the filter except the POT2 pot. If you
> > want a VBWF kit without the pot, send a check and I'll put one
>snip.....>
>Deal, Jim Is the price still only $9.00 ? Does that include shipping?
>I assume you're gud in the callbook and QRZ.
Yes and yes! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....I hope my offer to help you out doesn't open up some kind of
flood gate. I don't have parts to make up very many filter kits,
maybe one or two, and I don't want to get back into that business
again, nor start taking parts out of my stock. Putting the filter
kits together was a "one time only" proposition to assist the group
builders a year ago.
There is little doubt in my mind that most of the the active participants in
the 2m2-40 Yahoo Group have already got their irons smoking for the 2n2-30.
I vote to leave it here. There only seem to be 2-3 guys per month starting
a 2n2-40 new build.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "k8iqy" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 10:17 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2/30 Additional photos
> Gang,
>
> I've added two additional photos to the 2N2/30 album, they
> are of the Local Oscillator.
>
> You will also receive an automatically generated email from
> the 2N2-40 group regarding the first two pages of schematics
> for the 2N2/30 rig. I've got one more to draw, and it will be up
> to date with what has been designed and built so far. It may
> be time to move all of this material over to another group,
> since maybe not everyone on the 2N2-40 group is interested.
>
> Comments? Pro/Con
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS.....been a long day!!
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Let's leave it where it is. I think we're still getting enough
stragglers that it's important...that and I am not done with my 2N2/40
I started last year.
I would suggest that anyone interested, take the time to download all
the pictures/files on the website and keep them in a safe place. I
wish you could download the message base.
73
----- Original Message -----
From: "k8iqy" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 9:17 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2/30 Additional photos
> Gang,
>
> I've added two additional photos to the 2N2/30 album, they
> are of the Local Oscillator.
>
> You will also receive an automatically generated email from
> the 2N2-40 group regarding the first two pages of schematics
> for the 2N2/30 rig. I've got one more to draw, and it will be up
> to date with what has been designed and built so far. It may
> be time to move all of this material over to another group,
> since maybe not everyone on the 2N2-40 group is interested.
>
> Comments? Pro/Con
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS.....been a long day!!
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> Sell a Home with Ease!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/SrPZMC/kTmEAA/jd3IAA/ELTolB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
-~->
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
I sure hope not!
Lee
> AHHH Jim, now you went and did it!! Looks like I will be building one of
> these too (after the /15 is done of course)! Gotta start going thru the
> parts to see what I have and what I need.... Will the madness ever
stop....
>
> 72 es oo
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
I vote that we should stay right here. I'll try to change the
description of the group to reflect that we're building 2n2/XX radios
designed by K8IQY. I'm guessing most people interested in the 2n2/40 are
interested in the other designs.
73,
John, N1QO
Dennis Ponsness wrote:
> Jim, et al....
> I think that they should stay in this group, after all, a lot of the info
> in the archives would be invaluable to building up a 2N2/30 or /15 or
> whatever band it is. It would be your "one stop source" for the 2N2/xx
> family of rigs. Just my thoughts.....
>
> 72 es oo
>
> Dennis - WB0WAO
>
>
> NJQRP #329
> FPQRP #-347
> SOC #499
> FISTS # 9299
> GACW #622
> ARS #1363
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Unlimited Internet access for only $21.95/month. Try MSN!
> http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWell, I tried to change the title and description of the group to
"2n2/XX" however Yahoo came back with the error: "We do not permit
profane language in group title" - gimme a break 'eh!
So I changed the title to "2N2-40/30/15 Builders" which I hope is OK
with everyone here.
Build on!
Speaking of which; do we want to start to think about group buys for the
2n2/30?
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comTest to see if one can get to the same group using the old group name.
73 de Lee, km4yy
----- Original Message -----
From: "john" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2002 12:32 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] group title change
> Well, I tried to change the title and description of the group to
> "2n2/XX" however Yahoo came back with the error: "We do not permit
> profane language in group title" - gimme a break 'eh!
>
> So I changed the title to "2N2-40/30/15 Builders" which I hope is OK
> with everyone here.
>
> Build on!
>
> Speaking of which; do we want to start to think about group buys for the
> 2n2/30?
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 10:53 AM 10/19/02 -0400, you wrote:
>I vote that we should stay right here. I'll try to change the
>description of the group to reflect that we're building 2n2/XX radios
>designed by K8IQY. I'm guessing most people interested in the 2n2/40 are
>interested in the other designs.
>
>73,
>
>John, N1QO
That's a good idea John, if Yahoo will let you do that. If we don't
run out of room, that would be the best solution by far. If we
start running out of room, maybe we can collectively decide what
to keep and what to archive somewhere.
72 and thanks,
Jim, K8IQY
I'd be pleased to offer some archival pages on the NJQRP web site. No major
size limits, auto-back-up, and links from the the home page.
73, George N2APB
n2apb@amsat.org ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2002 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/30 Additional photos
> At 10:53 AM 10/19/02 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >I vote that we should stay right here. I'll try to change the
> >description of the group to reflect that we're building 2n2/XX radios
> >designed by K8IQY. I'm guessing most people interested in the 2n2/40 are
> >interested in the other designs.
> >
> >73,
> >
> >John, N1QO
>
> That's a good idea John, if Yahoo will let you do that. If we don't
> run out of room, that would be the best solution by far. If we
> start running out of room, maybe we can collectively decide what
> to keep and what to archive somewhere.
>
> 72 and thanks,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
What was changed was the title not the name. Its name is still 2n2-40.
Larry
Lee Mairs wrote:
> Test to see if one can get to the same group using the old group name.
> 73 de Lee, km4yy
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "john" <john@wagner-usa.net>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2002 12:32 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] group title change
>
> > Well, I tried to change the title and description of the group to
> > "2n2/XX" however Yahoo came back with the error: "We do not permit
> > profane language in group title" - gimme a break 'eh!
> >
> > So I changed the title to "2N2-40/30/15 Builders" which I hope is OK
> > with everyone here.
> >
> > Build on!
> >
> > Speaking of which; do we want to start to think about group buys for the
> > 2n2/30?
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > John, N1QO
> > --
> > John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> > Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
==============================================================
Never cross a Dragon, for you are crunchy and taste delicious!
My Interests are:
Ham Radio (N8MGU) | Opera | Theater | Sailing | Judaica
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I used those SMT diodes for everything in mine except for the transmit
mixer. The receiver worked fine. Wanted to make sure everything was
working, and I was advised that the hot carrier diodes might not be quite as
efficient in the transmitter. I have trouble understanding the explanations
fully, but it didn't seem that it would make much difference for the TX.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Unlimited Internet access -- and 2 months free!� Try MSN.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.aspI did some quite major surgery on the VFO, replaced both trimmers, and one
or two NP0's...now the receiver doesn't seem to be working. Have to wait
until later when the band opens up to be sure.
A couple of questions...
1. Should I still be able to monitor the VFO frequency, or is it lost in
the mix and too low to be heard on a general coverage RX? I thought I was
tuning the right place, but couldn't hear anything.
2. Exactly how does one test a RX circuit with an audio oscillator? I've
never known how to go about that, and it seems like a good way to check the
thing out.
3. I've been nursing the idea of building another 2N2 Receiver for the
phone portion of the band...anyone know of a good design for a SSB TX to go
along with it? I have an old article by W1FB, but his design was for 75
meters...maybe it wouldn't be too difficult to change the freq.
Delbert Long, AD6WE
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
Einstein
_________________________________________________________________
Broadband?�Dial-up? Get reliable MSN Internet Access.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.aspHey Del,
Delbert Long wrote:
>
> I did some quite major surgery on the VFO, replaced both trimmers, and one
> or two NP0's...now the receiver doesn't seem to be working. Have to wait
> until later when the band opens up to be sure.
Uh oh.
Suggest you check your voltages against the schematic. If they aren't
right, look at the diodes and resistors in the VFO (dc components) first
and then start looking at the transistors.
> A couple of questions...
>
> 1. Should I still be able to monitor the VFO frequency, or is it lost in
> the mix and too low to be heard on a general coverage RX? I thought I was
> tuning the right place, but couldn't hear anything.
You should be able to hear the VFO on a nearby receiver; run a wire from
the recvr ant in near the VFO (don't hook the wire up to the radio). The
VFO tunes from roughly 2.085 - 2.185 and you should hear it on your recvr.
> 2. Exactly how does one test a RX circuit with an audio oscillator? I've
> never known how to go about that, and it seems like a good way to check the
> thing out.
You don't. You can troubleshoot an audio circuit with it though by
interjecting the audio signal into the input of the circuit and
following it through. With a scope you can see the small sig get
amplified, or find out where it's losing gain.
For a receiver, you'll need something that generates RF in the band
you're interested in, like a marker generator or RF generator. You
inject that where the ant normally plugs in and follow the signal. I
will get some gain in the mixer amp, then it will change freq after the
mixer (with other freqs in the mix), after the filter you should have a
nice clean signal in the IF freq and after the RX Lo you should have
audio freqs.
Having an o'scope is a must, IMO for doing stuff like this. It's been
incredibly useful and instructive for me.
73,
John, N1QO
> Delbert Long, AD6WE
>
> Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. - Albert
> Einstein
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Broadband? Dial-up? Get reliable MSN Internet Access.
> http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGang,
Another two pictures of the 1st audio pre-amp have been
added to the 2N2-30 album. This stage is working fine, and
the audio is being piped out to the power amplifier stage
of the 2N2/40+ for critical listening while I'm typing this.
It all sounds really good, and coming down the home stretch
on the 2N2/30 receiver. Only have the Rx Mute switch to
build and the audio output stage. I'll build the audio stage
first, and leave room for the Rx Mute switch. Don't need that
until the transmit strip is done. 30 meters is "hot" tonight.
Lots of good signals on.
72 and enjoy,
Jim, K8IQY
|
2383|2362|2002-10-19 22:46:20|Mark Schoonover|Re: 2N2/30 Additional photos|Well, I can offer some archival space for no cost to the group. Jim, contact
me directly if this is something you'd like to do...
72
.mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY [mailto:
jokortge@prodigy.net]
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2002 11:16 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/30 Additional photos
At 10:53 AM 10/19/02 -0400, you wrote:
>I vote that we should stay right here. I'll try to change the
>description of the group to reflect that we're building 2n2/XX radios
>designed by K8IQY. I'm guessing most people interested in the 2n2/40 are
>interested in the other designs.
>
>73,
>
>John, N1QO
That's a good idea John, if Yahoo will let you do that. If we don't
run out of room, that would be the best solution by far. If we
start running out of room, maybe we can collectively decide what
to keep and what to archive somewhere.
72 and thanks,
Jim, K8IQY
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Gang,
Page 3 of the 2N2/30 schematics has been posted in the files section.
This page has the IF Amplifier, Product Detector, 1st Audio
Amplifier, along with the Rx Local Oscillator. That represents
all that I've built so far.
Had to take the day off from building to get a 30 mile bicycle
ride in. Wx sure was nice, and the freshly made donuts and cider
at the local cider mill were GREAT!! Another reminder why I ride.
72 and enjoy,
Jim, K8IQY
|
2385|90|2002-10-22 09:18:15|2n2-40@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to 2n2-40 ||
2386|2386|2002-10-22 16:04:44|k8iqy|More 2N2/30 images to view|Gang,
I've uploaded another 4 images of the 2N2/30. Two images
are of the main audio amplifier, and the other two are
of the overall board with the complete receiver on it.
Next stop, some of the transmitter sections after I do the
design reviews and reconfirm the SPICE models.
BTW, the receiver is very hot, and very, very quiet. I'm
going to make some measurements on it tonight, time
permitting. 30 meters has been in very good condition the
past few days. The JAs were on again this morning working
stateside.
72 and enjoy,
Jim, K8IQY
|
2387|2387|2002-10-23 10:54:58|k8iqy|2N2/30 Rx Measurements|Gang,
I made some quick measurements on the 2N2/30 receiver this morning.
Here are the results:
Sensitivity (MDS) -132 dBm (for reference, -127 dBm is 0.1 uvolt)
Dynamic Range 99 dB (audio output increases as input rf increases)
Opposite Sideband Rejection 61 dB
IF Rejection 94 dB
Considering the rig isn't in a case, and some of my test leads
are a bit leaky, not to shabby I'd say.
Don't have a power combiner for measuring the blocking dynamic
range. Guess it's time to build one of those.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
2388|2083|2002-10-24 02:00:21|James McKinley|Re: New Pictures|Jeff,
Can you tell me where to get the files and
pictures that are associated with this group
and how to get there please?
Thanks,
Jim WD4OJY
--- dek8gd <
jhecht@dnaco.net> wrote:
> Hi guys.
>
> It's done! And it works very well! I never thought
> I would have so
> much fun. After I put the kids to bed, it's down
> into the basement
> and into the ham shack. I call CQ a few times...
> and another contact
> goes in the log book for the 2N2/40+.
>
> Anyway, I posted some new pictures of my completed
> rig. They are in
> the K8GD folder.
>
> I will have it with me at FDIM in less than a month,
> so I hope to see
> several of you guys there.
>
> Hope to QSO soon too!
>
> Thanks and best 72!
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/Hi Jim,
Most of the groups pictures sections are located at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40 Click on "Photos" in the menu on the right. There is also a bunch of
picktures in the "Files" area in a folder called 2N240-Pictures.
You must be a Yahoo member to sign-in and view them.
73,
John, N1QO
James McKinley wrote:
> Jeff,
> Can you tell me where to get the files and
> pictures that are associated with this group
> and how to get there please?
> Thanks,
> Jim WD4OJY
>
> --- dek8gd <jhecht@dnaco.net> wrote:
>
>>Hi guys.
>>
>>It's done! And it works very well! I never thought
>>I would have so
>>much fun. After I put the kids to bed, it's down
>>into the basement
>>and into the ham shack. I call CQ a few times...
>>and another contact
>>goes in the log book for the 2N2/40+.
>>
>>Anyway, I posted some new pictures of my completed
>>rig. They are in
>>the K8GD folder.
>>
>>I will have it with me at FDIM in less than a month,
>>so I hope to see
>>several of you guys there.
>>
>>Hope to QSO soon too!
>>
>>Thanks and best 72!
>>
>>Jeff - K8GD
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
> http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi all,
First; to Jim (K8IQY) the crystal kit arrived today in FB condition.
Thanks again.
Second; I have a new E-mail
-KI8H@amsat.org. The folks at Amsat will
forward all your mail to another address, allowing you to have a call
sign address at a premier site. Really nice for someone like me, who
has changed calls, but wants to keep the old e-mail account. They
don't charge for the service,
but do accept donations. This same service is available at QSL.net
(where a number of you have web pages), but is verrrry slow.
P.S. Would someone clue me in on the "72" greeting?? Is it just a
low power 73, or what??
Tnx and 72,
Jim
KI8H
That's it, in a nutshell. You've got it right.
72/73
Dick K2JQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "wd8dws" <wd8dws@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2002 6:41 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Crystal kit arrived and E-mail forwarding site
> P.S. Would someone clue me in on the "72" greeting?? Is it just a
> low power 73, or what??
Here's an update group. The 2N2/30 receiver I have been working on is
built. I posted a picture in the Photos section under K8GD. This
thing works very well, and I wanted to share it with you guys. The
VFO (not pictured) plugs into the center of the Rx board.
Hopefully I will have the audio stage completed this weekend. A
status report and photos will follow.
Best 72 to all.
Jeff - K8GD
|
2393|2392|2002-10-26 09:11:34|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N2/30 Rx Picture|At 03:07 AM 10/26/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Here's an update group. The 2N2/30 receiver I have been working on is
>built. I posted a picture in the Photos section under K8GD. This
>thing works very well, and I wanted to share it with you guys. The
>VFO (not pictured) plugs into the center of the Rx board.
Very nice Jeff, and good to hear that yours works well too!
>Hopefully I will have the audio stage completed this weekend. A
>status report and photos will follow.
Starting the build of the Tx section of mine on Saturday. Got
delayed again with other activities.
I look forward to seeing more pictures.
72 and thanks,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I've added schematics 4 and 5 to the set, plus updated
the other three with minor changes. The most important
changes were on schematics B and C. B now shows the output
for the Tx VFO, and C was missing a 50 ohm resistor on the
LO port of the Product Detector. The other changes were
to titling etc. to make them look consistent.
I also uploaded the spectrum plot for the receiver 4 pole,
500 Hz crystal filter used in the rig.
I built the Tx LO and added the ADE-1 mixer with attendant
circuitry. Seems to be working fine, and getting a nice
signal out on 30 meters. Now to add in the 40 dB amplifier
and get some rf power going! :-)
72 and enjoy,
Jim, K8IQY
PS, I'll post a couple of images of the Tx LO and mixer yet
tonight.
|
2395|2395|2002-10-26 21:25:30|camqrp|Emerging from the Woodwork|2N2/XXers -
Time to come out of the woodwork and admit my sins publicly.
But I have to say up front that it's the box that made me do it. It's
a very cute little extruded aluminum modem box that begged me to fill
it's innards with a 2N2/40. And I have to say that I was tempted. So
tempted that I cut a piece of board to fit, downsized the layout of
the rig and proceeded with the RX-TX driver and VFO.
It was only then that I realized that this thing was going to be so
crammed, and my eyes were getting so old that it was never going to
fly. So I did the unmentionable, I set it aside.
Now, many months later, I've come crawling back. I promise to do it
right, full sized so that all the pieces have breathing room. And my
fingers fit, and my eyes can see, and I can trouble shoot it when
necessary.
Now with that behind me, I've got the renewed TX-RX driver and VFO
working. Time to do the front end. I have a bunch of SBL-1s and I'm
feeling tempted to use them instead of winding my own DBMs. I'm
hoping it's not heresy to mention these little critters on this list,
but it would certainly shorten construction time and eliminate all of
those "which is wire number 2?" errors. And maybe I could do a little
catching up to some of you guys who are already on your third 2N2/XX.
So my question is this: Anyone used SBL-1s in their 2N2 radio, and if
so, what's the pinout? And did they work? I have a fairly good idea
from looking at some of Haywards receivers, but I'd like to be sure.
And if Uncle Brucie is out there, well, sorry, I'd rather ask the
good folk on this list than "look it up" myself.
So, finlly, I am at last snortin' solder with purpose.
TNX,
Cam N6GA
|
2396|2395|2002-10-26 22:09:57|k8gz|Re: Emerging from the Woodwork|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "camqrp"
wrote:
> 2N2/XXers -
> a very cute little extruded aluminum modem box that begged
> It was only then that I realized that this thing was going to be so
> crammed, and my eyes were getting so old that it was never going to
> fly. So I did the unmentionable, I set it aside.
I'm guilty of that same sin.
> So my question is this: Anyone used SBL-1s
Pinout follows:
------ ------
gnd | 2 1 | RF (blue bead) gnd | 2 1 | IF (blue bead)
IF | 4 3 | IF RF | 4 3 | RF
gnd | 6 5 | gnd gnd | 6 5 | gnd
LO | 8 7 | gnd LO | 8 7 | gnd
------ ------
Most all SBL types Type SBL-1X
Check terminals to ground with diode check on digital multimeter.
IF will show forward voltage drop of diodes. RF and LO go through
low resistance toriod winding to ground. Pinout taken from NA5N,
Paul Harden's Data Book. Hope this helps. I'm using TUF-1's.
Kaye, K8GZ Lancaster, OH
> TNX,
>
> Cam N6GA
At 01:25 AM 10/27/02 +0000, Cam N6GA wrote:
>2N2/XXers -
>
>-snip-
>So my question is this: Anyone used SBL-1s in their 2N2 radio, and if
>so, what's the pinout? And did they work?
Cam,
The SBL-1 mixers will work great in a 2N2/40. I'd even be tempted
to put one in for the Product Detector, unless you don't have 3 of
them. As for pinout, Kaye already addressed that issue.
I'm using ADE-1 mixers for the receiver and transmit main mixers,
and rolled my own transformer and diode setup for the Product
Detector in the new 2N2/30. The "30" is extremely hot with those
commercial mixers, with the good Schottky diodes.
72 and GL, and nice to hear from you again,
Jim, K8IQY
Cam,
I'll try again with the ASCII art. It looked fine in
the EDIT and PREVIEW mode. Yahoo doesn't speak hillbilly.
------
gnd | 2 1 | R F (blue bead)
I F | 4 3 | I F
gnd | 6 5 | gnd
L O | 8 7 | gnd
------
Most all SBL types
------
gnd | 2 1 | I F (blue bead)
R F | 4 3 | R F
gnd | 6 5 | gnd
L O | 8 7 | gnd
------
Type SBL-1X
Info from NA5N's Data Book. Hope this doesn't
get scrambled.
72,
Kaye, K8GZ
|
2399|2395|2002-10-27 11:12:39|Delbert Long|Re: Emerging from the Woodwork|Yo, Cam!
Glad to hear that you are going to get your 2N2/40 done.
I downsized mine, and managed to fit it into the desired enclosure, but it
does make it tough when troubleshooting comes along. Sometimes I have
looked long and hard trying to find a particular component, decide that I
must have left it out somewhere, and then I realize that I stuck it
UNDERNEATH everything!
Still can't figure out what I did to knock out the receiver. TX is putting
out a decent 2 watts, but I can't hear anything. Rigged up a little test
oscillator to inject a signal, but I'm scared it is too strong and might fry
something. I wanted to try and sort it out myself, but I'll probably take
it over to WB6JDH, Dick's place and he'll help me find the problem in a few
seconds.
Good Luck...you'll be glad you did it when you get finished. It's a great
little rig!
73, Del
"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts
can be counted."
- Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
_________________________________________________________________
Broadband?�Dial-up? Get reliable MSN Internet Access.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.aspI used an ADE-1 in my 2N2/40 and SBL-1's in the /15. They work
great....
72 es oo
Dennis - WB0WAO
NJQRP #329
FPQRP #-347
SOC
#499
FISTS # 9299
GACW #622
ARS #1363
|
2401|2401|2002-10-27 22:55:46|k8iqy|New 2N2/30 images plus updated schematic #5|Gang,
I've updated schematic #5 to include the cascode Tx RF Amp.
It is putting out 10 milliwatts now, enough to actually
put the rig on the air at QRPp power levels. Very clean
output signal at this point. The second harmonic is down
about 45 dB from the main carrier at 10.1 MHz. Just have
to add the driver, and final(s), and the transmit string is
finished.
Two images have also been added to the album showing this
new stage.
72 and enjoy,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....30 meters is hot again tonight.
|
2402|2402|2002-10-30 14:12:56|James McKinley|E-mails|I have not received any mail to
the list in a few days. Am I the
only one?
Thanks es 73,
Jim WD4OJY
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/OK...OK....never mind. I got this
one! LOL
Jim, WD4OJY
--- James McKinley <
flyable2@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I have not received any mail to
> the list in a few days. Am I the
> only one?
>
> Thanks es 73,
> Jim WD4OJY
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
> http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/Found a few problems, not the least of which was a loose crystal in
the fixed BW filter. Tightened up some of the wiring that was a bit
sloppy, and replaced a resistor or two.
Took the rig over to have it "scoped" and everything seems okay...it
was suggested I put disk ceramics in place of a couple mylar
capacitors..."better for rf."
Only problems are LOUD microphonics in the audio, and some BC station
interference. We have a really strong AM station nearby, so I might
have to put up with that - any suggestions?
Also, could I put a 386 audio amp in place of the "stock" one? If
so, do I need to keep the audio transformer?
So, it's time to heat up the iron again, then throw the ol' wire into
the trees and see what happens.
72,
Del, AD6WE
|
2405|2404|2002-10-31 15:09:48|wd8dws|Re: Back on the air (almost)|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Delbert Long" wrote:
Del,
> Only problems are LOUD microphonics in the audio,
....snip.......
This sounds like you might have a cold solder joint in the audio
stage, which can rectify (detect) the strong AM signal. Try heating
up each joint in turn and removing the iron without jiggling the
joint.
........snip......
and some BC station
> interference. We have a really strong AM station nearby, so I
might have to put up with that - any suggestions?
If the solder joint first aid above doesn't help with this, for a
long shot, try a "suck out trap" (series resonant circuit) across the
antenna input and tune it to the freq of the station. I really doubt
that the AM signal is getting past you bandpass filter - more
likely "fundamental overload" requiring shielding or the cold solder
bit.
...........snip.....
> Also, could I put a 386 audio amp in place of the "stock" one? If
> so, do I need to keep the audio transformer?
You can, but you might not like the audio quality you get.
72 es HTH,
Jim KI8H (former WD8DWS)
At 05:16 AM 10/31/02 +0000, Del, AD6WE wrote:
>Found a few problems, not the least of which was a loose crystal in
>the fixed BW filter. Tightened up some of the wiring that was a bit
>sloppy, and replaced a resistor or two.
Sounds like you found some major problems there Del.
>
>
>Took the rig over to have it "scoped" and everything seems okay...it
>was suggested I put disk ceramics in place of a couple mylar
>capacitors..."better for rf."
However, disc ceramics are the worst thing to use in any audio
stage. They used to be made from barium titanate (sp?), and
probably still are, which was also the main material used in
ultrasonic transducers.
>Only problems are LOUD microphonics in the audio, and some BC station
>interference. We have a really strong AM station nearby, so I might
>have to put up with that - any suggestions?
Some 0.01 bypass capacitors on the bases of Q9, Q11, and Q12
ought to help the BC interference problem.
>Also, could I put a 386 audio amp in place of the "stock" one?
Why would you want to do that?
> If
>so, do I need to keep the audio transformer?
No, 386 audio amps drive the speaker directly through a large capacitor.
>So, it's time to heat up the iron again, then throw the ol' wire into
>the trees and see what happens.
Sure sounds like it.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
The 2N2/30 is done! I found some interesting things about
some of the common transistors in my inventory when designing
the final. I wanted to offer something other than parallel
2N2222As for the final, in case there was interest in being
able to run more power. Here is the summary:
1st final: Used a 2N3053. Maximum output power was a
very dissappointing 1 watt. Tried all of the tricks, but
that was the most I could get out of it. It may be that
I have a bunch of crappy 2N3053s, but I think they are
typical.
2nd final: Took out the 2N3053 and dropped in one of my
remaining 2SC799. (Wish those were still being made...they
are great) Could run up to 5 watts of output power, and
the transistor seemed really happy at 3.5 watts, which was
my design output power level. This transistor would be
the one of choice, if they were still being made, or I
knew of a large supply, other than the stash that Chuck Adams,
K7QO has.
3rd final: This one blew my socks off. Now you have to remember,
the only thing I was changing was the final transistor, no changes
in the driver, etc. This final uses a 2SC2166, which is a current
production TO220 style, real RF transistor conservatively rated
at 7 watts. With this final, I can get up to 9 WATTS of stable
output! Simply amazing! The power control is a smooth as a babies
bottom from a few milliwatts, to all out gonzo power. The best
part is these puppies cost $1.55 each, and $1.45 in quantities
of 10 or more from my favorite transistor supplier, Consolidated
Electronics down in Dayton, OH. So, I'm sticking with the
2SC2166 as the final in the 2N2/30, unless someone can convince
me to give it up.
I'll have some additional pictures on the web pages later this
evening, or tomorrow morning. Also, I'll get the final schematics
drawn up and posted too. For the moment, I'm going to put
a few connectors on some leads, and put this rig on the air
and see how it plays. I'll set the power output for 3.5 watts
since it was designed to run at that level.
72
Jim, K8IQY
|
2408|2404|2002-10-31 18:14:17|Delbert Long|Re: Back on the air (almost)|>
> >Also, could I put a 386 audio amp in place of the "stock" one?
>
>Why would you want to do that?
>
I've got everything squeezed into an enclosure that is smaller than the
suggested size, and thought it might save space...also wondered if I might
get rid of the microphonic problem that way...I'm going to check and see
what sort of capacitors I used in there, might need to make some changes
there as well. I have a lot to learn about which caps go better in
different places!
I re-worked the RX input filter...one of the trimmers turned out to be
bad...put a 5 pF NP0 in where the schematic calls for 3 pF. I had two caps
in parallel there before. Now I can hear the oscillator from my SMK-1
really loud, and it peaked up nicely! I think I have re-done so many of the
stages that I've probably built the entire radio twice!
Gotta go string up that wire!
72, 73
Del, AD6WE
_________________________________________________________________
Surf the Web without missing calls!�Get MSN Broadband.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/freeactivation.aspCould that transistor be used for the 2N2/40 as well? I was wondering about
getting a few more dB out of (into?) my limited wire antennas...
Del, AD6WE
"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts
can be counted."
- Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
_________________________________________________________________
Broadband?�Dial-up? Get reliable MSN Internet Access.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.aspSo I guess we will need a new Yahoo group name, say 2N/SC2-xx?
Congrats, Jim. This will start a new line of IQY-designed rigs.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
PS: My cousin has been visiting the past week. Together we have the new
shop/garage insulated and will start on sheet rock tomorrow. Hoping for a
bit of slack time, I brought 3 of my 36 drawer cabinets full of parts out
with me. Unfortunately, they were all mixed together in the box I carried
them in, so one of my first chores will be to re-stuff/re-label the drawers
so that I know roughly what I have. Anyway, the 2n/SC2-30 is tops on my
priority list - even ahead of getting my TH5DXII moved.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2002 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Back on the air (almost)
> At 05:16 AM 10/31/02 +0000, Del, AD6WE wrote:
>
> >Found a few problems, not the least of which was a loose crystal in
> >the fixed BW filter. Tightened up some of the wiring that was a bit
> >sloppy, and replaced a resistor or two.
>
> Sounds like you found some major problems there Del.
>
> >
> >
> >Took the rig over to have it "scoped" and everything seems okay...it
> >was suggested I put disk ceramics in place of a couple mylar
> >capacitors..."better for rf."
>
> However, disc ceramics are the worst thing to use in any audio
> stage. They used to be made from barium titanate (sp?), and
> probably still are, which was also the main material used in
> ultrasonic transducers.
>
>
> >Only problems are LOUD microphonics in the audio, and some BC station
> >interference. We have a really strong AM station nearby, so I might
> >have to put up with that - any suggestions?
>
> Some 0.01 bypass capacitors on the bases of Q9, Q11, and Q12
> ought to help the BC interference problem.
>
>
> >Also, could I put a 386 audio amp in place of the "stock" one?
>
> Why would you want to do that?
>
> > If
> >so, do I need to keep the audio transformer?
>
> No, 386 audio amps drive the speaker directly through a large capacitor.
>
>
> >So, it's time to heat up the iron again, then throw the ol' wire into
> >the trees and see what happens.
>
> Sure sounds like it.
>
> 72 and GL,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
So I guess we will need a new Yahoo group name, say 2N/SC2-xx?
Congrats, Jim. This will start a new line of IQY-designed rigs.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
PS: My cousin has been visiting the past week. Together we have the new
shop/garage insulated and will start on sheet rock tomorrow. Hoping for a
bit of slack time, I brought 3 of my 36 drawer cabinets full of parts out
with me. Unfortunately, they were all mixed together in the box I carried
them in, so one of my first chores will be to re-stuff/re-label the drawers
so that I know roughly what I have. Anyway, the 2n/SC2-30 is tops on my
priority list - even ahead of getting my TH5DXII moved.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2002 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Back on the air (almost)
> At 05:16 AM 10/31/02 +0000, Del, AD6WE wrote:
>
> >Found a few problems, not the least of which was a loose crystal in
> >the fixed BW filter. Tightened up some of the wiring that was a bit
> >sloppy, and replaced a resistor or two.
>
> Sounds like you found some major problems there Del.
>
> >
> >
> >Took the rig over to have it "scoped" and everything seems okay...it
> >was suggested I put disk ceramics in place of a couple mylar
> >capacitors..."better for rf."
>
> However, disc ceramics are the worst thing to use in any audio
> stage. They used to be made from barium titanate (sp?), and
> probably still are, which was also the main material used in
> ultrasonic transducers.
>
>
> >Only problems are LOUD microphonics in the audio, and some BC station
> >interference. We have a really strong AM station nearby, so I might
> >have to put up with that - any suggestions?
>
> Some 0.01 bypass capacitors on the bases of Q9, Q11, and Q12
> ought to help the BC interference problem.
>
>
> >Also, could I put a 386 audio amp in place of the "stock" one?
>
> Why would you want to do that?
>
> > If
> >so, do I need to keep the audio transformer?
>
> No, 386 audio amps drive the speaker directly through a large capacitor.
>
>
> >So, it's time to heat up the iron again, then throw the ol' wire into
> >the trees and see what happens.
>
> Sure sounds like it.
>
> 72 and GL,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Gang,
The remaining 10 images of the 2N2/30 construction have
been added to the photo album. It is now complete, showing
the construction from beginning to end, and in the order that
the sections were completed.
Also noteworthy, I made a contact on my fist call. Only into
WI, but got a 599 signal report from another QRP station. So,
it is indeed working. There are a few minor changes needed
to fine tune the performance, but overall, it is a fine rig
as it stands. What a rush building another rig from the ground
up!
72 and thanks for your interest,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....remaining schematics tomorrow.
|
2413|2407|2002-10-31 20:58:31|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N2/30 Finished|At 03:20 PM 10/31/02 -0800, Del, AD6WE wrote:
>Could that transistor be used for the 2N2/40 as well?
Yes, but to get the most out of it, and keep the high efficiency
the final currently has would require some small changes in
the output filter. The easiest thing to do would be to scale
the 2N2/30 output LP filter down to 7.1 MHz. Everything else should
be fine.
> I was wondering about
>getting a few more dB out of (into?) my limited wire antennas...
That will sure do it, and then some.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Dang guys, I'm chomping at the bit to build one of these! I've got to
finish up the smt 2n2/40, and then this is going to be the next in line.
Thanks Jim for providing us with another radio!
73,
John, N1QO
k8iqy wrote:
> Gang,
>
> The remaining 10 images of the 2N2/30 construction have
> been added to the photo album. It is now complete, showing
> the construction from beginning to end, and in the order that
> the sections were completed.
>
> Also noteworthy, I made a contact on my fist call. Only into
> WI, but got a 599 signal report from another QRP station. So,
> it is indeed working. There are a few minor changes needed
> to fine tune the performance, but overall, it is a fine rig
> as it stands. What a rush building another rig from the ground
> up!
>
> 72 and thanks for your interest,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS....remaining schematics tomorrow.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim Kortge, k8iqy,
Congratulations to you, Jim, for completing
the 2n2/30!!!
Once again you are an inspiration to us all.
Reading the QRP-L index just now (it's
3:32 a.m.) I saw at least one post there
pointing to the 2n2-40 group as the prime
example of a successful Yahoo e-mail group.
The post specifically refers to you, Jim,
and to your accomplishments here.
It mentions your 2n2/30 as well...
Three cheers!
73 de wp4gvw (ex kp4abf)
hw, at the beachside cave laboratory,
a hundred meters from the edge of the
Atlantic Ocean, 4.5 miles east of the
entrance to Sen Juan Harbor...
--- k8iqy <
jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
> Gang,
>
> The remaining 10 images of the 2N2/30 construction
> have
> been added to the photo album. It is now complete,
> showing
> the construction from beginning to end, and in the
> order that
> the sections were completed.
>
> Also noteworthy, I made a contact on my fist call.
> Only into
> WI, but got a 599 signal report from another QRP
> station. So,
> it is indeed working. There are a few minor changes
> needed
> to fine tune the performance, but overall, it is a
> fine rig
> as it stands. What a rush building another rig from
> the ground
> up!
>
> 72 and thanks for your interest,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS....remaining schematics tomorrow.
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/At 03:14 PM 10/31/02 -0800, Del, AD6WE wrote:
> >
> > >Also, could I put a 386 audio amp in place of the "stock" one?
> >
> >Why would you want to do that?
> >
>
>I've got everything squeezed into an enclosure that is smaller than the
>suggested size, and thought it might save space...
Well that it will probably do, as there are fewer parts overall
I'm guessing.
>also wondered if I might
>get rid of the microphonic problem that way.
Maybe, maybe not. It all depends where the offending capacitors
are located. If they are within the normal 4 transistor 2N2/40
amplifier, using the LM386 will probably reduce the microphonics.
But if the bad caps are ahead of the amp, it will not change anything,
and may in fact make it worse, as the LM386 probably has more gain.
>..I'm going to check and see
>what sort of capacitors I used in there, might need to make some changes
>there as well. I have a lot to learn about which caps go better in
>different places!
Paul Harden addresses some of those issues in his data book.
>I re-worked the RX input filter...one of the trimmers turned out to be
>bad.
Not good!!
>..put a 5 pF NP0 in where the schematic calls for 3 pF.
That's OK, the filter will just be a bit wider, but it will
also have slightly less insertion loss.
> I had two caps
>in parallel there before. Now I can hear the oscillator from my SMK-1
>really loud, and it peaked up nicely!
Two peaks??
> I think I have re-done so many of the
>stages that I've probably built the entire radio twice!
That's OK. I'll bet it got better and neater each time you
worked on it. That's called learning.
>Gotta go string up that wire!
Do it.
72 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks for the quick reply John! I found them.
Jim WD4OJY
--- john <
john@wagner-usa.net> wrote:
> Hi Jim,
>
> Most of the groups pictures sections are located at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40
>
> Click on "Photos" in the menu on the right. There is
> also a bunch of
> picktures in the "Files" area in a folder called
> 2N240-Pictures.
>
> You must be a Yahoo member to sign-in and view them.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> James McKinley wrote:
> > Jeff,
> > Can you tell me where to get the files and
> > pictures that are associated with this group
> > and how to get there please?
> > Thanks,
> > Jim WD4OJY
> >
> > --- dek8gd <jhecht@dnaco.net> wrote:
> >
> >>Hi guys.
> >>
> >>It's done! And it works very well! I never
> thought
> >>I would have so
> >>much fun. After I put the kids to bed, it's down
> >>into the basement
> >>and into the ham shack. I call CQ a few times...
> >>and another contact
> >>goes in the log book for the 2N2/40+.
> >>
> >>Anyway, I posted some new pictures of my completed
> >>rig. They are in
> >>the K8GD folder.
> >>
> >>I will have it with me at FDIM in less than a
> month,
> >>so I hope to see
> >>several of you guys there.
> >>
> >>Hope to QSO soon too!
> >>
> >>Thanks and best 72!
> >>
> >>Jeff - K8GD
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
> > http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/Gang,
There is now a complete set of schematics for the new rig
in the files section. All 6 pages have been updated, and
show today's date, 11/01/2002.
I did add a 10uF capacitor to the TxVcc line to improve
the receive to transmit muting. It helped a lot with
the small pop that was occuring when the receive audio
came back. The other schematic changes were cosmetic to
improve readability.
I'd be most appreciative if some of you would take the time
to look over these pages and look for errors. Things like wiring
labels that don't match up, spelling errors, or anything that
doesn't make sense, including various circuit elements that
you think might be wrong. As far as I can determine, what is
captured on the schematics is what is on the PC board substrate.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
2419|2418|2002-11-01 14:44:44|john|Re: 2N2/30 Schematics|Jim,
I've got the schematics and will take them with me this weekend on a
trip I'm going on.
I like your comments on using different finals. I'd like to try a
different final in my SMT 2n2/40. I've got a bunch of 2sc2078's - I
think they'll work fine. Can you give me a shove in the right direction
as far as designing an output filter for it? I'd like to do the math
myself, but need to know where to get started.
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
k8iqy wrote:
> Gang,
>
> There is now a complete set of schematics for the new rig
> in the files section. All 6 pages have been updated, and
> show today's date, 11/01/2002.
>
> I did add a 10uF capacitor to the TxVcc line to improve
> the receive to transmit muting. It helped a lot with
> the small pop that was occuring when the receive audio
> came back. The other schematic changes were cosmetic to
> improve readability.
>
> I'd be most appreciative if some of you would take the time
> to look over these pages and look for errors. Things like wiring
> labels that don't match up, spelling errors, or anything that
> doesn't make sense, including various circuit elements that
> you think might be wrong. As far as I can determine, what is
> captured on the schematics is what is on the PC board substrate.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 02:36 PM 11/1/02 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>Jim,
Greetings John,
>I've got the schematics and will take them with me this weekend on a
>trip I'm going on.
>
>I like your comments on using different finals. I'd like to try a
>different final in my SMT 2n2/40. I've got a bunch of 2sc2078's - I
>think they'll work fine.
Yes, they should work well John. I've also got several of those
from when we did the MH101 group buy. I didn't try one in the
2N2/30, as I thought the results would be quite similar to the
2SC2166, with probably a little less output power, but still
over 5 watts full bore.
> Can you give me a shove in the right direction
>as far as designing an output filter for it? I'd like to do the math
>myself, but need to know where to get started.
Well there are two approaches you could use. You can frequency scale the
2N2/30 filter, by using the ratio of 10.1/7.1 and then use that value
as the multiplier for each of the capacitor and inductor values. The
first inductor in the 2N2/30 filter is 0.55uH, and the second inductor
has a value of 0.83uH.
That filter was designed by picking a value of output power, 3.5 watts,
and applying that to the Vcc^2/2*Po formula. That gives a collector
impedance of about 25 ohms with Vcc being 13 volts. You then design
an impedance transformation network, in this case, a PI network to
transform 25 ohms up to 50 ohms. I used a loaded Q of 1.25, which
gave reasonable capacitance and inductor values. The second inductor
is then part of a 3 pole Chebyshev 0.5 dB ripple LP filter with the
-3dB point at about 12 MHz. The second capacitor of the PI network
and the first capacitor of the Chebyshev are combined, on in the case
of the actual implementation, are put in parallel. The reason that
the first capacitor of the PI is smaller than calculated is because
there will be about 60pF of capacitance added by the trimmer capacitor
in the T/R switch, and the output capacitance of the final transistor.
That's why the first capacitor of the PI is 270pF instead of the 330pF
that's computed.
That's it. Have fun, and let me know how it all works out.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Awesome Jim!
I can't wait to make the first 2N2/30 to 2N2/30 contact! I ordered the
2SC2166
today. I would probably have the transmitter going this weekend, but I have
some business to attend to. I'm close. The receiver works
exceptionally well.
With just an alligator clip attached for an antenna, it hears just about
everything my
Icom can hear with an antenna. I used 1N5711's in the DBM. I'm a
little late
getting some more pictures uploaded. I will soon.
Best 72 to all.
Jeff - K8GD
k8iqy wrote:
> Gang,
>
> The 2N2/30 is done! I found some interesting things about
> some of the common transistors in my inventory when designing
> the final. I wanted to offer something other than parallel
> 2N2222As for the final, in case there was interest in being
> able to run more power. Here is the summary:
>
> 1st final: Used a 2N3053. Maximum output power was a
> very dissappointing 1 watt. Tried all of the tricks, but
> that was the most I could get out of it. It may be that
> I have a bunch of crappy 2N3053s, but I think they are
> typical.
>
> 2nd final: Took out the 2N3053 and dropped in one of my
> remaining 2SC799. (Wish those were still being made...they
> are great) Could run up to 5 watts of output power, and
> the transistor seemed really happy at 3.5 watts, which was
> my design output power level. This transistor would be
> the one of choice, if they were still being made, or I
> knew of a large supply, other than the stash that Chuck Adams,
> K7QO has.
>
> 3rd final: This one blew my socks off. Now you have to remember,
> the only thing I was changing was the final transistor, no changes
> in the driver, etc. This final uses a 2SC2166, which is a current
> production TO220 style, real RF transistor conservatively rated
> at 7 watts. With this final, I can get up to 9 WATTS of stable
> output! Simply amazing! The power control is a smooth as a babies
> bottom from a few milliwatts, to all out gonzo power. The best
> part is these puppies cost $1.55 each, and $1.45 in quantities
> of 10 or more from my favorite transistor supplier, Consolidated
> Electronics down in Dayton, OH. So, I'm sticking with the
> 2SC2166 as the final in the 2N2/30, unless someone can convince
> me to give it up.
>
> I'll have some additional pictures on the web pages later this
> evening, or tomorrow morning. Also, I'll get the final schematics
> drawn up and posted too. For the moment, I'm going to put
> a few connectors on some leads, and put this rig on the air
> and see how it plays. I'll set the power output for 3.5 watts
> since it was designed to run at that level.
>
> 72
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 10:05 PM 11/1/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Awesome Jim!
Yep, nice to have it done and working Jeff.
>I can't wait to make the first 2N2/30 to 2N2/30 contact!
I'm ready!! :-)
> I ordered the
>2SC2166
>today.
From Consolidated? Others on the list might like to know the
details, like current price, availability etc. Those are good
guys; more than one of them has a ham ticket.
> I would probably have the transmitter going this weekend, but I have
>some business to attend to. I'm close. The receiver works
>exceptionally well.
Great to hear. I'm assuming you now have the audio pot installed,
so it isn't blasting like it was a short time ago when you tested
it.
>With just an alligator clip attached for an antenna, it hears just about
>everything my
>Icom can hear with an antenna. I used 1N5711's in the DBM.
Sounds like it has tons of sensitivity too. Those are good diodes
for DBM service.
> I'm a
>little late
>getting some more pictures uploaded. I will soon.
Good! I for one am anxious to see more of your rig.
72 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
After putting everything back together, I discovered November Sweepstakes
was on! Wow, if I can't hear anything now, something is definitely wrong.
Went out in the parking lot with the slingshot and got the faithful end-fed
wire hung up...only lost one sinker in the process...now that it's light
maybe I can find it.
Signals were pouring in from everywhere...wow, I never listened to
sweepstakes before, it's just like field day!
Couldn't find the October QST...went online to find what the exchange
was...hey, that's a lot to copy in CW...got K4XU in Bend, Oregon. Couldn't
get anyone else to answer, but that's okay...it's working better than
before!
Hope to be on Spartan Sprint tomorrow...if I can get a decent dipole built,
I should have a better signal.
72, 73...
Del, AD6WE
"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts
can be counted."
- Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
_________________________________________________________________
Choose an Internet access plan right for you -- try MSN!
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.aspWell,
I talked up the -40 to my buddy KI8JM (bob) and in the process I
talked myself out of doing a 40M now, since I have a fine 40 M QRO
radio. So count me in on the -30, sent out my order to Dan's this
afternoon, before I read the post's about the hi pwr output xistor.
If anyone is getting together a group order - count me in!!
I'm stoked and the iron is hot!!
Jim KI8H
|
2425|2425|2002-11-03 17:48:53|Lee Mairs|Re: 2n2-30|John -
Did you get any feedback from guys wanting to group up an order for 30
parts.
Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "wd8dws" <wd8dws@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2002 4:56 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2n2-30
> Well,
> I talked up the -40 to my buddy KI8JM (bob) and in the process I
> talked myself out of doing a 40M now, since I have a fine 40 M QRO
> radio. So count me in on the -30, sent out my order to Dan's this
> afternoon, before I read the post's about the hi pwr output xistor.
> If anyone is getting together a group order - count me in!!
> I'm stoked and the iron is hot!!
> Jim KI8H
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I have not.
How 'bout it gang? Anyone want to step up to the plate?
N1QO
Lee Mairs wrote:
> John -
> Did you get any feedback from guys wanting to group up an order for 30
> parts.
> Lee
> KM4YY
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim Kortge, K8IQY wrote:
>>
>>I like your comments on using different finals. I'd like to try a
>>different final in my SMT 2n2/40. I've got a bunch of 2sc2078's - I
>>think they'll work fine.
>
>
> Yes, they should work well John. I've also got several of those
> from when we did the MH101 group buy. I didn't try one in the
> 2N2/30, as I thought the results would be quite similar to the
> 2SC2166, with probably a little less output power, but still
> over 5 watts full bore.
5 watts sounds like more than enough to me. I've been busy, but I plan
to start doing the fox hunts more frequently this winter. I'd like to
use the 2n2/40, but also like to be able to run a full QRP gallon in the
hunts.
>> Can you give me a shove in the right direction
>>as far as designing an output filter for it? I'd like to do the math
>>myself, but need to know where to get started.
>
>
> Well there are two approaches you could use. You can frequency scale the
Great. I think I'll take the design from scratch aproach, and then use
the scaling method as a sanity check. I've got my ARRL Handbook cracked
to Chapter 16 and will report back with results after doing the
homework. Thanks for the information Jim!
And speaking of the 2n2/40 SMT; I had some bugs in my receiver at the
product detector and in the audio amp. After fixing those problems, the
audio on this radio is just as crisp as can be. I've got the TX/LO built
and hope to have more done this week and next. It's been a thrill to
build another one!
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comWell, I need to check my stock of "junque" but I know that I would need at
least the finals for it. So count me in right now.
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
_________________________________________________________________
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963John - Standard components or surface
mount? Either way, I'm in. -HW/wp4gvw
--- john <
john@wagner-usa.net> wrote:
> I have not.
>
> How 'bout it gang? Anyone want to step up to the
> plate?
>
> N1QO
>
> Lee Mairs wrote:
> > John -
> > Did you get any feedback from guys wanting to
> group up an order for 30
> > parts.
> > Lee
> > KM4YY
> >
> >
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
=====
--
Hans William Perl -
hwp@caribe.net at the cave/laboratory, a hundred meters from the edge of the Atlantic Ocean, 5 miles east of the entrance to San Juan Harbor - wp4gvw
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/--- In 2n2-40@y..., "k8iqy"
wrote:
> Gang,
....snip.....>
> I'd be most appreciative if some of you would take the time
> to look over these pages and look for errors. Things like wiring
> labels that don't match up, spelling errors, or anything that
> doesn't make sense, including various circuit elements that
> you think might be wrong. As far as I can determine, what is
> captured on the schematics is what is on the PC board substrate.
.........snip............
Jim I've gone over the schematics pretty carefully, only thing I
found was that the last page, which should be labelled 2n2-30-*fa.sch
is labelled 2n2-30-*ea,sch. In addition, I couldn't verify the
resistor values in any of your T-pads. Perhaps I'm getting stupid in
my dotage.
72,
>
> Jim, KI8H
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs"
wrote:
> John -
> Did you get any feedback from guys wanting to group up an order for
30 parts.
> Lee
> KM4YY
Not really. I should have most of the parts, with the exception of
the final and the two fets and perhaps some of the non ft37-43
cores. I'm still in on a group buy though.
Jim, KI8H
AKA wd8dwsJim -
When you decided to build the filter for the 2N2-40 or 2N2-30, how many
crystals did you have to buy in order to get sufficient number to have a
reasonable chance to satisfy your design criteria as far as tolerance goes?
Lee
|
2433|2418|2002-11-04 20:47:51|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N2/30 Schematics|At 11:37 PM 11/4/02 +0000, you wrote:
>--- In 2n2-40@y..., "k8iqy" wrote:
> > Gang,
>....snip.....>
> > I'd be most appreciative if some of you would take the time
> > to look over these pages and look for errors. Things like wiring
> > labels that don't match up, spelling errors, or anything that
> > doesn't make sense, including various circuit elements that
> > you think might be wrong. As far as I can determine, what is
> > captured on the schematics is what is on the PC board substrate.
>.........snip............
>
>Jim I've gone over the schematics pretty carefully, only thing I
>found was that the last page, which should be labelled 2n2-30-*fa.sch
>is labelled 2n2-30-*ea,sch.
Hi Jim,
Many thanks; I found that one also this morning as I was working
on the bill of material for the rig. Glad you found it too.
> In addition, I couldn't verify the
>resistor values in any of your T-pads. Perhaps I'm getting stupid in
>my dotage.
I'm not sure I understand what you are telling me. Are you saying
that the values shown don't provide the amount of attenuation
shown, or are you saying you can't read the values on the schematics?
I'll go back and look at both in the meantime.
Many thanks for taking the time to look through them. I'd really like
everything to be ipsy pipsy before everyone starts building. Keeps the
number of inquiries down a lot! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 06:47 PM 11/4/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Jim -
>When you decided to build the filter for the 2N2-40 or 2N2-30, how many
>crystals did you have to buy in order to get sufficient number to have a
>reasonable chance to satisfy your design criteria as far as tolerance goes?
For a one off filter, usually 10 units will get you a set of 4 that
are matched well enough. But, if you really want to make sure, you
start with 20 units. Out of that, you'll get at least one really
tight grouping, and probably 2 more with an acceptable spread.
Less than 5 Hz among 4 crystals is really tight, and a 25 Hz spread
is more than acceptable for a 500 Hz filter. That said, the closer
they are, the better the filter, all things being equal.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....when you buy 300 units, you get LOTS of good filter sets!!
2n2'ers,
There seems to be some interest brewing for the 2n2/30! It's really neat
to be on the cutting edge of a new K8IQY design! I know there has been
one other built or close to completion... who's going to be the next?
A number of folks have said they are interested in doing some group buys
for parts. The last go 'round, I shipped 50 kits of various parts. I
believe Jim shipped a similiar number of matched xtal kits.
For these group buys I think it would be best if we kept the numbers
down a little in order to make the impact on the people doing the buys
less taxing.
I think splitting up the group buys into the following sets makes sense;
- Matched xtal kit and Rx/Tx LO's
- Caps kit, including varicaps
- 2n2222's
- Resistors (all, variable, etc..), chokes and toroids
- Finals and diodes (all)
- Ten turn pots
- ?
The only one that requires some expertise and additional equipment is
the Matched Xtal Kit. In the past, Jim has done this for a number of
builds. I think for this build we should have one of us do it instead.
For the others, you will need to review the schematics and make a list
of what parts you will be ordering. After the parts come in you will
need split them up and package them for mailing. I would suggest if you
handle a group buy to ask people ordering to include a self-addressed
mailing label, it will make your life MUCH easier. Don't forget the cost
of mailers, return labels and tape - it adds up!
A couple of random things I want to say;
If you are going to put in to order parts, then please only do so if you
intend to build a 2n2/30 in the very near future. It's very, very
discouraging to the people who put in the time to process orders, buy
and split up parts, package and mail to find out that a large percentage
didn't get used for their intended purpose. If you look at the shelves
in your shop and there are a bunch of unbuilt kits, then you probably
shouldn't be ordering more. ;)
What I'd like to happen is folks to step up and grab one of the tasks
outlined above. I'm available to help in any way I can, but I won't be
doing any ordering this time around.
BTW; This isn't a directive of any kind and I hope it doesn't come off
as one - I'm in charge of nothing 'round here. ;) We're all free to do
as we wish, but it was sure great when the group got together last time
around - we had some good Mojo going and I think a lot of it went into
the rigs that got built!
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt one time I recall there being a varicap diode tester on the Yahoo
site. Does anyone remember where it was and/or what happened to it? I'd
like to get a copy of the schematic if possible.
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI might be interested in a set of crystals, the rest I can probably scrounge
for....
BTW, the driver and finals on my 2N2/40 don't get very warm, are the heat
sinks really necessary?
Worked Spartan Sprint tonight...the band noise was incredible, and I don't
think my TX offset is exactly right, but I managed to make 4 or 5 QSO's.
Del, AD6WE
"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts
can be counted."
- Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
_________________________________________________________________
Surf the Web without missing calls!�Get MSN Broadband.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/freeactivation.asp--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 11:37 PM 11/4/02 +0000, WD8DWS wrote:
In addition, I couldn't verify the resistor values in any of your T-
pads. Perhaps I'm getting stupid in my dotage.
>
K8IQY responded:
> I'm not sure I understand what you are telling me. Are you saying
> that the values shown don't provide the amount of attenuation
> shown, or are you saying you can't read the values on the
schematics?
> I'll go back and look at both in the meantime.
......snip.....
I could not calculate the indicated loss with the values given - I'm
doing Voltage (not power).
> 72,
>
> Jim, KI8H
BTW -- I finally got a new Yahoo account to agree with my current
callsign - sorry for any confusion. -KI8H (former wd8dws)I don't have one on my driver but do have them on the finals. My finals
don't get very warm either. Guess it can't hurt to have them.
73,
John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
> I might be interested in a set of crystals, the rest I can probably scrounge
> for....
>
> BTW, the driver and finals on my 2N2/40 don't get very warm, are the heat
> sinks really necessary?
>
> Worked Spartan Sprint tonight...the band noise was incredible, and I don't
> think my TX offset is exactly right, but I managed to make 4 or 5 QSO's.
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
>
> "Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts
> can be counted."
> - Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Surf the Web without missing calls! Get MSN Broadband.
> http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/freeactivation.asp
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comJim,
My apologies!! There are no worries about T Pads. I must have been
struck by dummo rays! Once I dusted off Thevinin, normalized to 52
ohms, and used 20 Log Vo/Vi - VOILA! your pads checked out perfect.
Just ignore any future rantings from me.
Jim, KI8H
|
2441|2441|2002-11-05 19:56:35|Delbert Long|QRN and TX offset|Atmospheric noise (I am assuming that's what it is) has been nearly
unbearable lately...is anyone else having that trouble, or is it
something local? Would a noise blanker like "Buzz Not" be any help?
Also, I need to adjust my TX offset...do I simply measure the VFO
with a counter, then set the TX oscillator 750 hz above that?
Do I need to worry about "loading" the circuit when I stick the
counter on the VFO output?
I feel like I'll never run out of questions...
72, 73...Del, AD6WE
|
2442|2436|2002-11-05 21:37:31|Jeff Hecht|Re: varicap diode tester?|John,
I don't think it is available anymore on the site. I designed one
myself and it seems to work out pretty well. The details are available
at my web site:
http://www.qsl.net/k8gd The one I built seems to measure varicaps quite well. If you build it,
let me know what you think, and how it works out for you.
BTW, I'm getting ready to start my 2N2/30 Transmitter this week. I have
everything I need, except time... These kids keep me busy :)
Also.... The final transistor (2SC2166) I purchased from MCM
electronics. It was around $2.25 if memory serves me correctly. I also
picked up a 2SJ103 for the mute circuit.... I didn't have any J176's
close, so I thought I would try it. It's a P channel JFET, so hopefully
it will work out ok. I think MCM has a $25.00 min order, but I live
just a few miles from the warehouse, and don't have the min order
problem. If there are enough people on the list who would like to order
some, I'm willing to do the group buy on the 2SC2166... they also have
5-50pf trimmers for $0.60 (I think... I don't have the catalog in front
of me right now). You might be able to find them cheaper somewhere
else, but if you don't want to order $25.00 of stuff to meet the min
order someplace, this might be a nice option.
Best 72.
Jeff - K8GD
john wrote:
> At one time I recall there being a varicap diode tester on the Yahoo
> site. Does anyone remember where it was and/or what happened to it? I'd
> like to get a copy of the schematic if possible.
>
> Thanks es 73,
>
> John, N1QO
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
Hi Del,
Don't stop!
See this message by Craig, AA0ZZ;
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/message/1430 It's very detailed and will answer your question.
73,
John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
>
> Atmospheric noise (I am assuming that's what it is) has been nearly
> unbearable lately...is anyone else having that trouble, or is it
> something local? Would a noise blanker like "Buzz Not" be any help?
>
> Also, I need to adjust my TX offset...do I simply measure the VFO
> with a counter, then set the TX oscillator 750 hz above that?
>
> Do I need to worry about "loading" the circuit when I stick the
> counter on the VFO output?
>
> I feel like I'll never run out of questions...
>
> 72, 73...Del, AD6WE
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 12:02 AM 11/5/02 -0500, you wrote:
>At one time I recall there being a varicap diode tester on the Yahoo
>site. Does anyone remember where it was and/or what happened to it? I'd
>like to get a copy of the schematic if possible.
>
>Thanks es 73,
>
>John, N1QO
Hi John,
Yes, I posted the pictures of the varicap tester that I designed.
When I started posting pictures of the 2N2/30, I removed the
varicap tester figuring anybody who was interested in it would
have probably downloaded the pictures and schematic. Guess I
was wrong! :-) I'll repost a picture and the schematic tomorrow.
Too many things working today to do it.
72 and thanks for asking,
Jim, K8IQY
Wow, that WAS a great post about aligning the rig! I remember reading it
long ago, before I was ready to use the suggestions.
Now, how about the QRN problem...what can I do about that?
Next Spartan Sprint, I think I'll go to the park and put up an EDZ. I live
near Edison Field (Where the Anaheim Angels won the World Series, YEAH!) and
my end-fed wire seems to be directed exclusively to the Bay Area! At least
I get a lot of Norcal Contacts.
"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts
can be counted."
- Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
_________________________________________________________________
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963hi all,
Yesterday I ordered by phone a dozen
each of 2sc2166 transisors (Jim Kortge's
selected 2n2-30 final), and 2n7000's and
2n2907A's.
I plan to keep three of each of those
transistors, leaving me with a surplus
of nine of each.
I'll prepare little packages containing
one each of the three transistors for
mailing to those who wish to order a
three-transistor package from me prepaid.
The cost for each little package will
come to about four dollars, which should
cover all my costs, including shipping by
US Postal Service to destinations in
the USA.
Shipping to places where postage rates
are higher than the regular US domestic
rate will require additional pre-paid
postage.
My order was placed by phone yesterday
(Tuesday), to Consolidated Electronics
Inc., in Ohio, where I had the pleasure
of conversing with Steve, k8ud, who
apparently owns the firm.
Steve was very helpful, easy to talk
with, and enlightening. (He told me a
little about qrp moon-bounce
communication, of which I knew nothing,
and which I find awesome.)
Does anyone know anything about the
difference between 2n2907A's and
2n2907's (no 'A' suffix on the latter)?
Although Jim specifies the 2n2907 for
the 2n2-30, I ordered them *with*
the A suffix, thinking at the moment
those ought to be a better version of
the same thing. Now I'm having second
thoughts!
Steve said he'd send the parts out
immediately, by Priority Mail. He said
I should receive them by Saturday.
That may be optimistic, but they ought
to arrive in a very few days.
If you want to receive one of the
three-transistor packages, send me a
message off list, to
hwp002@yahoo.com.
I'll ask you to send me a mailing
label with your mailing address filled
in, with your pre-payment.
73 - wp4gvw (Hans W)
At 05:05 PM 11/5/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim,
>My apologies!! There are no worries about T Pads. I must have been
>struck by dummo rays! Once I dusted off Thevinin, normalized to 52
>ohms, and used 20 Log Vo/Vi - VOILA! your pads checked out perfect.
>Just ignore any future rantings from me.
>Jim, KI8H
Thanks for the update Jim. I was quite sure they were correct!
Glad someone is looking at the design though. That always helps
catch mistakes, and I make lots of them, especially when I get
cranking too fast.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I've just completed the final (hopefully) revision to the
schematics of the Version "A" design and posted them in the
files section. No major changes except the last page which
has an added capacitor across the 2nd LP filter inductor to
put a notch at the second harmonic so that the rig had a bit
more headroom for passing the FCC regulations. Without that
capacitor, the 2nd harmonic was exactly 35 dB down from the
10.1 MHz fundamental. With the change, it is now down about
55 dB. I'll scan the output spectrum plot later today and post
that too for those who are interested.
Also, you'll notice on the schematics that the component units
are also specified, so no guessing if it is pF, uF, uH, etc.
Only resistance values are left without any designator, since there
isn't a short one for ohms. With that done, I also annotated
the schematics, which allowed the generation of a Bill of Material.
That BOM is now posted too, so you can see all of the parts that
are required.
Time to get those soldering irons warmed up and building. If
there are any more changes to the design, they should be very minor.
I think this one is about wrapped. Time for Jim to finish the
design of the 2N2/15.
72 and happy building all,
Jim, K8IQY
|
2449|2448|2002-11-06 10:01:04|Lee Mairs|Re: Latest 2N2/30 schematics available|Much thanks from your loyal followers, Jim. Any chance of making a dual
bander 2N2-xx next?
Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "k8iqy" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 8:30 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Latest 2N2/30 schematics available
> Gang,
>
> I've just completed the final (hopefully) revision to the
> schematics of the Version "A" design and posted them in the
> files section. No major changes except the last page which
> has an added capacitor across the 2nd LP filter inductor to
> put a notch at the second harmonic so that the rig had a bit
> more headroom for passing the FCC regulations. Without that
> capacitor, the 2nd harmonic was exactly 35 dB down from the
> 10.1 MHz fundamental. With the change, it is now down about
> 55 dB. I'll scan the output spectrum plot later today and post
> that too for those who are interested.
>
> Also, you'll notice on the schematics that the component units
> are also specified, so no guessing if it is pF, uF, uH, etc.
> Only resistance values are left without any designator, since there
> isn't a short one for ohms. With that done, I also annotated
> the schematics, which allowed the generation of a Bill of Material.
> That BOM is now posted too, so you can see all of the parts that
> are required.
>
> Time to get those soldering irons warmed up and building. If
> there are any more changes to the design, they should be very minor.
> I think this one is about wrapped. Time for Jim to finish the
> design of the 2N2/15.
>
> 72 and happy building all,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs"
wrote:
> Much thanks from your loyal followers, Jim. Any chance of making a
dual bander 2N2-xx next?
Me too, many thanks to Jim. And Lee- I like the way you think!
Jim, KI8HHi Gang.
My 2N2/30 is coming along nicely. I completed the Rx/Tx switch and
the Rx audio mute. For the switch, I substituted a 2N3906, and for
the mute, I substituted a 2SJ103. Both work very well. Specifically
the 2SJ103 works very well in the mute circuit... no thump at all.
I posted some photos in the "Photos" section. You will notice that I
am building it in sub assemblies. The VFO, Rx, and Audio assemblies
are all on seperate boards. This seems to work out great. I even
have molded connectors for the different lines (VFO, and Audio). This
also seems to be working great.
Now, on to the transmitter. If all goes well I'll get it started
tomorrow after my daughter's violin lesson.
Best 72.
Jeff - K8GD
|
2452|2452|2002-11-08 00:16:57|Lee Mairs|Item 59?|Jim -
Is Item 59 in the BOM really a 50 ohm Trimpot?
73 de Lee
KM4YY
|
2453|2452|2002-11-08 10:03:55|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Item 59?|At 05:16 AM 11/8/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim -
>Is Item 59 in the BOM really a 50 ohm Trimpot?
>73 de Lee
>KM4YY
Lee,
Yes it is. Needs to be a cermet or plastic type element so there
is not inductacce. Single turn too.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>---
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For those looking for a source of j176 p-channel jfets for Jim's
muting circuit, All Electronics has them for 5/1.00, also likely
some other parts that would be needed from their on-line catalog if
you need to make the minimum order.
|
2455|2452|2002-11-08 16:51:52|Jeff Hecht|Re: Item 59?|How badly will a 100 ohm pot work? I'm going to need to hunt for a 50
ohm one :-)
72,
Jeff - K8GD
Jim Kortge, K8IQY wrote:
> At 05:16 AM 11/8/02 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Jim -
> >Is Item 59 in the BOM really a 50 ohm Trimpot?
> >73 de Lee
> >KM4YY
>
> Lee,
>
> Yes it is. Needs to be a cermet or plastic type element so there
> is not inductacce. Single turn too.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 09:47 AM 11/6/02 -0500, Lee Mairs wrote:
>Much thanks from your loyal followers, Jim. Any chance of making a dual
>bander 2N2-xx next?
>Lee
Kinda already have that with a 2N2/40 and a 4017 transverter, or
you could run a 2N2/30 with a 4012 transverter. What, a 4012
transverter. Not yet designed, but should be able to scale the
design of the 4017 up to 12 meters, or even down to 15 meters.
I've also got the block diagram and some of the design done for
a 2 band SSB/CW rig for bicycle mobile use. One day I'll finish
the design of that rig too, and build one. Maybe during this next
year. :-) With a PC board, I'll bet that rig would be rather
popular.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:52 PM 11/8/02 -0500, you wrote:
>How badly will a 100 ohm pot work? I'm going to need to hunt for a 50
>ohm one :-)
>
>72,
>
>Jeff - K8GD
Hi Jeff,
Put a 100 ohm resistor in parallel with it, so that the cascode
amp is seeing the right load. It's not critical on the driver
side.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Frankly, I think any 2N2-based SSB rig would sell like hotcakes! It would
be much more impressive to my friends to demonstrate an SSB rig. When I
show them my 2N2-40 I'm not sure they really believe that I am talking to
somebody!
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 5:02 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Latest 2N2/30 schematics available
> At 09:47 AM 11/6/02 -0500, Lee Mairs wrote:
>
> >Much thanks from your loyal followers, Jim. Any chance of making a dual
> >bander 2N2-xx next?
> >Lee
>
> Kinda already have that with a 2N2/40 and a 4017 transverter, or
> you could run a 2N2/30 with a 4012 transverter. What, a 4012
> transverter. Not yet designed, but should be able to scale the
> design of the 4017 up to 12 meters, or even down to 15 meters.
>
> I've also got the block diagram and some of the design done for
> a 2 band SSB/CW rig for bicycle mobile use. One day I'll finish
> the design of that rig too, and build one. Maybe during this next
> year. :-) With a PC board, I'll bet that rig would be rather
> popular.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>> Can you give me a shove in the right direction
>>as far as designing an output filter for it? I'd like to do the math
>>myself, but need to know where to get started.
>
>
> Well there are two approaches you could use. You can frequency scale the
> 2N2/30 filter, by using the ratio of 10.1/7.1 and then use that value
> as the multiplier for each of the capacitor and inductor values. The
> first inductor in the 2N2/30 filter is 0.55uH, and the second inductor
> has a value of 0.83uH.
OK, I'm dancing around this problem right now. I've been reading "Solid
State Design for the Radio Amateur" and the 2000 ARRL Handbook trying to
figure this out. I seem to be missing some basic information and it's
the cause of a lot of confusion. I suspect if I had an actual, physical
Elmer standing right here this problem would be easily solved. :(
In looking at the schematic for the 2n2/30, I see a 33ohm resistor off
the base of final - this is for biasing, yes? On the 2n2/40 there is a
100ohm resistor and on the SW30 there is a 51ohm resistor and a 1n4148
whos purpose I don't understand.
So how is the the value of this resistor calculated? Am I right that
it's purpose is to bias the final? What is the purpose of the 1n4148 in
the SW series radios?
I'm also seeing a 3.3uF cap on the collector of the final now - is that
to ensure an adequate voltage supply for the larger final? The choke on
the collector before Vcc, that's to stop RF from getting into the power
supply, but let DC pass freely, yes? How is the value for that figured
(I notice the 2n2/30 has 5 turns as opposed to 7 on the 2n2/40)?
On to the Pi network; how does one figure out the loaded Q? The books
seem to say "we're going to use this value X for Q" - but why? The
formulas I'm seeing for figuring out the values of L and C in the Pi
network don't seem to produce Pi networks like the one in the 2n2/30.
So I guess a bit more of a push is needed, maybe a stroke over the head
with a small shovel would help!
>
> That's it. Have fun, and let me know how it all works out.
I realize this is a large question. I really want to learn this stuff so
I can do it again one day.
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGreat questions, John. I eagerly await the Guru's response also.
Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "john" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/30 Schematics
> >> Can you give me a shove in the right direction
> >>as far as designing an output filter for it? I'd like to do the math
> >>myself, but need to know where to get started.
> >
> >
> > Well there are two approaches you could use. You can frequency scale
the
> > 2N2/30 filter, by using the ratio of 10.1/7.1 and then use that value
> > as the multiplier for each of the capacitor and inductor values. The
> > first inductor in the 2N2/30 filter is 0.55uH, and the second inductor
> > has a value of 0.83uH.
>
> OK, I'm dancing around this problem right now. I've been reading "Solid
> State Design for the Radio Amateur" and the 2000 ARRL Handbook trying to
> figure this out. I seem to be missing some basic information and it's
> the cause of a lot of confusion. I suspect if I had an actual, physical
> Elmer standing right here this problem would be easily solved. :(
>
> In looking at the schematic for the 2n2/30, I see a 33ohm resistor off
> the base of final - this is for biasing, yes? On the 2n2/40 there is a
> 100ohm resistor and on the SW30 there is a 51ohm resistor and a 1n4148
> whos purpose I don't understand.
>
> So how is the the value of this resistor calculated? Am I right that
> it's purpose is to bias the final? What is the purpose of the 1n4148 in
> the SW series radios?
>
> I'm also seeing a 3.3uF cap on the collector of the final now - is that
> to ensure an adequate voltage supply for the larger final? The choke on
> the collector before Vcc, that's to stop RF from getting into the power
> supply, but let DC pass freely, yes? How is the value for that figured
> (I notice the 2n2/30 has 5 turns as opposed to 7 on the 2n2/40)?
>
> On to the Pi network; how does one figure out the loaded Q? The books
> seem to say "we're going to use this value X for Q" - but why? The
> formulas I'm seeing for figuring out the values of L and C in the Pi
> network don't seem to produce Pi networks like the one in the 2n2/30.
>
> So I guess a bit more of a push is needed, maybe a stroke over the head
> with a small shovel would help!
>
> >
> > That's it. Have fun, and let me know how it all works out.
>
> I realize this is a large question. I really want to learn this stuff so
> I can do it again one day.
>
> Thanks es 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Preparing my Master Order for Dan's, DIZ and Mouser, but have a few questions.
Item 76. L3, calls for a T50-7 toroid. I cannot find them even on DIZ's kitsandparts.com. Might this be a typo? If not, can you suggest a common alternate mix?
Item 64. D3. How about a part number for the 2v, 10 ma LEDs? I got the last one I needed for my -40 in a thorough search thru my junk box. There are no more, nor to surplus LED sellers spec voltage and current.
Item 87. T10 is speced as a "1200CT - 8". I can't break the code on this one!
Took my 2N2-40 to a NoVAQRP meeting at noon. It may have stirred the embers for a couple of guys - one who already has the filter crystals.
73 de Lee
|
2462|2461|2002-11-09 14:58:24|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N2-30 BOM Questions?|At 07:31 PM 11/9/02 +0000, Lee wrote:
>Preparing my Master Order for Dan's, DIZ and Mouser, but have a few questions.
>
>Item 76. L3, calls for a T50-7 toroid. I cannot find them even on DIZ's
>kitsandparts.com. Might this be a typo?
No, it is not. The type 7 mix has the lowest tempco of any of the
MicroMetals mixes, hence, it is often used for VFO coils. Diz
should stock these IMHO.
> If not, can you suggest a common alternate mix?
Yes, use a T50-6 core. It will work, but the temperature drift
will be more, probably requiring some experimentation to find the
right combo of NPO and polystyrene caps to tame the drift.
I supplied the T50-7 cores for the last 2N2/40 build out of my
pocket. Won't do it again, as too many of the cores did not get
used.
>Item 64. D3. How about a part number for the 2v, 10 ma LEDs?
Mouser part number 512-HLMP1790.
> I got the last one I needed for my -40 in a thorough search thru my
> junk box. There are no more, nor to surplus LED sellers spec voltage and
> current.
>
>Item 87. T10 is speced as a "1200CT - 8". I can't break the code on this
>one!
1200 ohm center tapped to 8 ohm audio transformer. Mouser part number
42TL003 (75 milliwatt version) or 42TM003 (200 milliwatt version)
Either will work fine with the larger transformer having more
headroom, but larger physically. I've got a 42TL003 in my 2N2/30.
>Took my 2N2-40 to a NoVAQRP meeting at noon. It may have stirred the
>embers for a couple of guys - one who already has the filter crystals.
Good. I'd really like to see the folks who got parts in the last
group effort get cracking and use that stuff. A lot of effort and
cost went into putting those parts kits out. It shouldn't be wasted.
OK, I'm off my soapbox now.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Dan's has T50-7's. I got several of them on my last order from them....
only one left in my inventory.
72,
Jeff - K8GD
Jim Kortge, K8IQY wrote:
> At 07:31 PM 11/9/02 +0000, Lee wrote:
>
> >Preparing my Master Order for Dan's, DIZ and Mouser, but have a few
> questions.
> >
> >Item 76. L3, calls for a T50-7 toroid. I cannot find them even on DIZ's
> >kitsandparts.com. Might this be a typo?
>
> No, it is not. The type 7 mix has the lowest tempco of any of the
> MicroMetals mixes, hence, it is often used for VFO coils. Diz
> should stock these IMHO.
>
> > If not, can you suggest a common alternate mix?
>
> Yes, use a T50-6 core. It will work, but the temperature drift
> will be more, probably requiring some experimentation to find the
> right combo of NPO and polystyrene caps to tame the drift.
>
> I supplied the T50-7 cores for the last 2N2/40 build out of my
> pocket. Won't do it again, as too many of the cores did not get
> used.
>
>
> >Item 64. D3. How about a part number for the 2v, 10 ma LEDs?
>
> Mouser part number 512-HLMP1790.
>
> > I got the last one I needed for my -40 in a thorough search thru my
> > junk box. There are no more, nor to surplus LED sellers spec
> voltage and
> > current.
> >
> >Item 87. T10 is speced as a "1200CT - 8". I can't break the code on
> this
> >one!
>
> 1200 ohm center tapped to 8 ohm audio transformer. Mouser part number
> 42TL003 (75 milliwatt version) or 42TM003 (200 milliwatt version)
> Either will work fine with the larger transformer having more
> headroom, but larger physically. I've got a 42TL003 in my 2N2/30.
>
>
> >Took my 2N2-40 to a NoVAQRP meeting at noon. It may have stirred the
> >embers for a couple of guys - one who already has the filter crystals.
>
> Good. I'd really like to see the folks who got parts in the last
> group effort get cracking and use that stuff. A lot of effort and
> cost went into putting those parts kits out. It shouldn't be wasted.
> OK, I'm off my soapbox now.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
Jim -
I found the T50-7 at Dan's Small Parts.
T50-7 (white) $0.65ea.
73 de Lee, KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2002 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2-30 BOM Questions?
> At 07:31 PM 11/9/02 +0000, Lee wrote:
>
> >Preparing my Master Order for Dan's, DIZ and Mouser, but have a few
questions.
> >
At 05:46 PM 11/8/02 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
> >> Can you give me a shove in the right direction
> >>as far as designing an output filter for it? I'd like to do the math
> >>myself, but need to know where to get started.
Well several days have gone by, and nobody responded to this plea,
so I guess I will.
> >
> >
> > Well there are two approaches you could use. You can frequency scale the
> > 2N2/30 filter, by using the ratio of 10.1/7.1 and then use that value
> > as the multiplier for each of the capacitor and inductor values. The
> > first inductor in the 2N2/30 filter is 0.55uH, and the second inductor
> > has a value of 0.83uH.
>
>OK, I'm dancing around this problem right now. I've been reading "Solid
>State Design for the Radio Amateur"
Figure 4 on page 53 has all of the details on designing a PI network output
filter.
> and the 2000 ARRL Handbook trying to
>figure this out.
Mine is a lot older than that, so can't give you any help with what
they may be saying.
> I seem to be missing some basic information and it's
>the cause of a lot of confusion. I suspect if I had an actual, physical
>Elmer standing right here this problem would be easily solved. :(
Maybe, but doing it over the internet will get the job done I'm sure.
>In looking at the schematic for the 2n2/30, I see a 33ohm resistor off
>the base of final - this is for biasing, yes?
No, it is for loading the base so that the stage is stable. The final
runs without any bias, in Class C, which means that the final transistor
is only conducting at about 135 degrees of the available 360 degree drive
cycle.
> On the 2n2/40 there is a
>100ohm resistor
It takes a smaller resistor generally as the power output goes up. There
are no formulas for picking this part. You do it from experience. However,
you know it is too large if the final is oscillating without any drive, or
as the drive comes up, there is a distinct jump in output power. Both
conditions indicate a stability problem. The other reason that that a
small value resistor is used is to keep the negative excursion of the drive
waveform from exceeding the reverse base to emitter breakdown voltage.
If that happens, the base-emitter junction begins to fail, and eventually,
the transistor gain falls off dramatically. It is damage that cannot
be undone.
> and on the SW30 there is a 51ohm resistor and a 1n4148
>whos purpose I don't understand.
The 1N4148 and the capacitor ahead of it form a circuit called a
DC restorer. In essence, during the negative drive cycle, the capacitor
is charged from minus to plus, with the plus being toward the base. On
the positive half cycle of the drive, the voltage on the capacitor is now
in series with the positive drive wavefrom, providing more drive, and
protecting the base-emitter junction from negative going drive. This
technique seems to work a lower power, but not at higher. I haven't
figured out why it sometimes works, and at other times it doesn't.
Someday the answer will reveal itself. I'm guessing it has something
to do with the base-emitter capacitance, which grows as the transistor
power handling capacity increases, all else being equal.
>So how is the the value of this resistor calculated?
It isn't. It is chosen from experience doing RF Amplifier designs.
Typical values range from 100 ohms down to 10 ohms, with the smaller
values being used as larger output transistors are employed. The
smaller the value, the more drive power wasted in this resistor, but
the stability also increases as the value decreases.
> Am I right that
>it's purpose is to bias the final?
No, unfortunately not at all correct for a Class C final. There is
no DC bias on this type of final, only RF drive.
> What is the purpose of the 1n4148 in
>the SW series radios?
See above.
>I'm also seeing a 3.3uF cap on the collector of the final now - is that
>to ensure an adequate voltage supply for the larger final?
That is a minor role that it plays. Its main purpose, along with
the 0.1uF chip capacitor is to bypass any RF that is on the supply
side of the collector RF choke. Often, you will see several parallel
capacitors here to assure that the RF is adequately bypassed. The
reason from using capacitors of different values is to prevent an
occurance where the capacitor and its lead inductance becomes resonant
at the frequency being amplified. When that happens, there is no
RF bypassing. On the final of the 4017 transverter, there are 4
capacitors in the bypass group. They are, a 0.001uF, 0.01uF,
0.1uF, and a 1uF. A 10uF could have also been added. Each
capacitor has a different resonant frequency, so regardless of
the RF content of the final, some of the capacitors will do the
required bypassing. The 3.3uF is a solid tantalum type, not a
standard foil electrolytic, which tend to have larger internal
inductances.
> The choke on
>the collector before Vcc, that's to stop RF from getting into the power
>supply, but let DC pass freely, yes?
Well yes sort of. It is there to supply DC to the final, and its
reactance allows the collector voltage to rise above the supply voltage,
and it doesn't absorb much power.
>How is the value for that figured
>(I notice the 2n2/30 has 5 turns as opposed to 7 on the 2n2/40)?
The rule of thumb is to make its reactance (2*PI*F*L) 5 to 10
times the output impedance of the final. In the case of the
2N2/30, the final design impedance is about 25 ohms. I'll come
back to where the 25 ohms come from in a moment. Using the
above rule of thumb would make the reactance of that choke
around 250 ohms. That comes out to 3 turns on a FT37-43 core.
However, if you can make the choke have more impedance, less
power is lost in the choke. The trade off again is stability.
Too much impedance and instability results. I started with 3
turns, but didn't like the power loss or the heating in the
choke toroid, so it was rewound with 4 turns and tried, and
then with 5 turns. It was still very stable at 5 turns, and
the heating was gone, and the power output of up to 9 watts
could be obtained. So the choke stayed at 5 turns. If you
compute the inductance, it comes out to 10.5uH, and its reactance
is 666 ohms, about 25 times the collector impedance of the final.
Now, back to how the 25 ohms is found. When I designed the final
I did it for about 3.5 watts of output. Using the timeless
equation, Zout = Vcc^2/2*Po, you get a value of about 21 ohms
if Vcc is 12 volts, and 27 ohms if Vcc is 13.8 volts. 25 ohms
is about in the middle of that range, so is a reasonable value to
use. That also makes calculating the output network a tad easier,
since it is half of the output impedance we need to end up with
at the antenna spigot.
>On to the Pi network; how does one figure out the loaded Q?
For a PI network, you pick it. The higher the value, the
more attenuation occurs at the harmonic frequencies, but
for very high values of Q, you can get rather ridiculous
values for the Cs and L. In my case, I did several interative
calculations, starting with a Q of 5 and working downward. I
was looking for values to pop out that were standard capacitor
values. The inductors aren't so critical in value, since we
have to wind them anyway. At a Q of 1.25, the C on the transistor
end came out to 330pF, and the C toward the antenna came out to
390pF. Perfect! While there is very little harmonic attenuation
with this very low loaded Q, the impedance transformation from
25 ohms to 50 still takes place, and we take care of the harmonic
reduction using another low pass section.
>The books
>seem to say "we're going to use this value X for Q" - but why?
Q controls the impedance transformation ratio you can obtain for
a given network design. The larger the Q, the wider the matching
range. If you are going from 25 ohms to 50 ohms, a small Q will
work, but it won't work if you are going from 5000 ohms to 50
ohms. That takes a larger Q for the equations to work, and not
get negative values.
> The
>formulas I'm seeing for figuring out the values of L and C in the Pi
>network don't seem to produce Pi networks like the one in the 2n2/30.
If you go back and use a Q of 1.25, they will indeed give you the exact
values that I used except, the capacitor on the transistor was
intentionally reduced to 270pF to account for the capacitance in
the transistor itself, plus the capacitance of the trimmer (TC1) in the
T/R switch. TC1 becomes part of the capacitance of the PI network when
diodes D1 and D2 conduct.
>So I guess a bit more of a push is needed, maybe a stroke over the head
>with a small shovel would help!
Well you're just not used to turning the crank on all of this stuff,
and probably don't know where to begin. I've left out a lot of
the nitty details, but the overall perspective is dead on.
I hope it has helped you and others. Now you all know why doing
RF design is as much Art as Science. Experience plays a large
part in being successful. Having good analysis equipment helps
a lot too!
> >
> > That's it. Have fun, and let me know how it all works out.
>
>I realize this is a large question. I really want to learn this stuff so
>I can do it again one day.
Let me know what doesn't make sense in my long epistle.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:40 PM 11/9/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Jim -
>I found the T50-7 at Dan's Small Parts.
>T50-7 (white) $0.65ea.
Good! That's a fair price for a single unit.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS...I was thinking maybe Diz might have some interest in doing a
toroid kit for this rig.
I'm looking at Jim's photo of the VFO output waveform, and I'm not
sure how to read it. At various places around the grid are the number
200 MV, 64MV and 451.2MV. Which is what?
Thanks,
Cam N6GA
|
2468|2468|2002-11-11 04:44:52|Steve Fletcher|Still here, and the 2n2-40 lives !|Hi Guys,
It's been quite a while since my last post, but I have been quietly monitoring via the daily digests.
Just sending a note to say that yet another 2n2-40 is alive and well. I will post a photo as soon as I get it in the new case which will also house the 4017 transverter. The old box was a bit of an embarrassment and certainly didn't do the rig justice !
It's been a bit of a struggle since my car crash of last year, kind of like building the rig with a ski mitt on my right hand ! Still, it's a heck of a lot easier than building the Nor'Easter that I started a few weeks ago !
So a belated thanks Jim for all your help and encouragement ( and also to John and others ). The filter kits were certainly put to good use and the 2n2-40 is officially my number one piece of kit. I wonder if any of the other group members have finished but, like me, have just been following the group from the sidelines ?
I will most certainly be collecting parts for the 2n2-30, you can look forward to another batch of dumb questions just as soon as I get started.
73 to all
Steve
G4GXL
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At 04:09 AM 11/11/02 +0000, Cam N6GA wrote:
>I'm looking at Jim's photo of the VFO output waveform, and I'm not
>sure how to read it. At various places around the grid are the number
>200 MV,
Vertical amplitude sensitivity in mvolts p-p. The waveform is showing
approximately 600 mvolts peak-to-peak in that image.
> 64MV
The trigger point setting on channel 1. Also indicated on the screen
by the small arrow on the right hand side.
>and 451.2MV.
The RMS value of the waveform. This scope can do those kinds of
measurements for you, and display the results. Most handy!!
> Which is what?
See above.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 09:44 AM 11/11/02 +0000, Steve G4GXL wrote:
>Hi Guys,
Greetings Steve, nice to hear from you again.
>It's been quite a while since my last post, but I have been quietly
>monitoring via the daily digests.
>
>Just sending a note to say that yet another 2n2-40 is alive and well. I
>will post a photo as soon as I get it in the new case which will also
>house the 4017 transverter. The old box was a bit of an embarrassment and
>certainly didn't do the rig justice !
Wonderful news that your rig is finished and working. Looks like
you may be one of the first to convert it to a dual bander with
the addition of the 4017 transverter. Holler at me if you have
any problems with the 4017. Don't forget to make R19 3.3K instead
of the supplied 22K so that the first RF Amp will be biased correctly.
That's the only error in the whole schematic, and it renders the Tx
strip totally inoperable.
>It's been a bit of a struggle since my car crash of last year, kind of
>like building the rig with a ski mitt on my right hand ! Still, it's a
>heck of a lot easier than building the Nor'Easter that I started a few
>weeks ago !
>
>So a belated thanks Jim for all your help and encouragement ( and also to
>John and others ). The filter kits were certainly put to good use and the
>2n2-40 is officially my number one piece of kit. I wonder if any of the
>other group members have finished but, like me, have just been following
>the group from the sidelines ?
I know Hubert was working on his rig last year, but don't think
I know if his got finished. He did such a nice job winding all
of the toroids and labelling them, ready for installation.
>I will most certainly be collecting parts for the 2n2-30, you can look
>forward to another batch of dumb questions just as soon as I get started.
Good to hear.
Thanks for the post and 72,
Jim, K8IQY
Well Gang,
I've tried 3 times to upload picture and the schematic for
the tester to the Yahoo site. It will let me create the
album, but not put any pictures into it. Something is
broken with the Yahoo tool that lets you do that. I
noticed they have made changes to the way pictures were
uploaded, and in the process have broken it.
Sooooo, until Yahoo gets the photo album section working
correctly again, the Varicap Diode Tester picture and
schematic will have to wait. Sorry Gang, I did try.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
2472|2467|2002-11-11 11:46:00|Lee Mairs|Re: Scope photos|What sort of magic scope are you using?
73 de Lee, km4yy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 8:03 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Scope photos
> At 04:09 AM 11/11/02 +0000, Cam N6GA wrote:
>
> >I'm looking at Jim's photo of the VFO output waveform, and I'm not
> >sure how to read it. At various places around the grid are the number
> >200 MV,
>
> Vertical amplitude sensitivity in mvolts p-p. The waveform is showing
> approximately 600 mvolts peak-to-peak in that image.
>
> > 64MV
>
> The trigger point setting on channel 1. Also indicated on the screen
> by the small arrow on the right hand side.
>
> >and 451.2MV.
>
> The RMS value of the waveform. This scope can do those kinds of
> measurements for you, and display the results. Most handy!!
>
> > Which is what?
>
> See above.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Jim -
Thanks for reminding me that I still have the 4017 kit that I purchased at
Atlanticon last year. I've got my parts order for the 2N2-30 ready to go -
I just have to wait until I get back to WV (tomorrow) to check to see if I
can find the cores from my first order for the -40. Lots of building
opportunities await this winter once I get the wallboard installed and
painted in the garage/shop!
73 de Lee
km4yy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 8:13 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Still here, and the 2n2-40 lives !
> At 09:44 AM 11/11/02 +0000, Steve G4GXL wrote:
>
> >Hi Guys,
>
> Greetings Steve, nice to hear from you again.
>
>
> >It's been quite a while since my last post, but I have been quietly
> >monitoring via the daily digests.
> >
> >Just sending a note to say that yet another 2n2-40 is alive and well. I
> >will post a photo as soon as I get it in the new case which will also
> >house the 4017 transverter. The old box was a bit of an embarrassment and
> >certainly didn't do the rig justice !
>
> Wonderful news that your rig is finished and working. Looks like
> you may be one of the first to convert it to a dual bander with
> the addition of the 4017 transverter. Holler at me if you have
> any problems with the 4017. Don't forget to make R19 3.3K instead
> of the supplied 22K so that the first RF Amp will be biased correctly.
> That's the only error in the whole schematic, and it renders the Tx
> strip totally inoperable.
>
>
> >It's been a bit of a struggle since my car crash of last year, kind of
> >like building the rig with a ski mitt on my right hand ! Still, it's a
> >heck of a lot easier than building the Nor'Easter that I started a few
> >weeks ago !
> >
> >So a belated thanks Jim for all your help and encouragement ( and also to
> >John and others ). The filter kits were certainly put to good use and the
> >2n2-40 is officially my number one piece of kit. I wonder if any of the
> >other group members have finished but, like me, have just been following
> >the group from the sidelines ?
>
> I know Hubert was working on his rig last year, but don't think
> I know if his got finished. He did such a nice job winding all
> of the toroids and labelling them, ready for installation.
>
>
> >I will most certainly be collecting parts for the 2n2-30, you can look
> >forward to another batch of dumb questions just as soon as I get started.
>
> Good to hear.
>
> Thanks for the post and 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Gang,
I put the Varicap Diode Tester information in the folder
in the "Files" section of the web page. 3 images and the
schematic are there for viewing.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
2475|2467|2002-11-11 12:07:14|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Scope photos|At 10:49 AM 11/11/02 -0500, you wrote:
>What sort of magic scope are you using?
>73 de Lee, km4yy
A Tektronix TDS380, 400 MHz digital, dual channel, with all sorts
of measurement capability. Even does FFT for spectrum plots of the
displayed waveforms.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Wow - this is good stuff... ;)
Jim Kortge, K8IQY wrote:
>
> Figure 4 on page 53 has all of the details on designing a PI network output
> filter.
Got it...
> The rule of thumb is to make its reactance (2*PI*F*L) 5 to 10
> times the output impedance of the final. In the case of the
> 2N2/30, the final design impedance is about 25 ohms. I'll come
OK - clear enough...
>>On to the Pi network; how does one figure out the loaded Q?
>
>
> For a PI network, you pick it. The higher the value, the
> more attenuation occurs at the harmonic frequencies, but
> for very high values of Q, you can get rather ridiculous
> values for the Cs and L. In my case, I did several interative
> calculations, starting with a Q of 5 and working downward. I
> was looking for values to pop out that were standard capacitor
> values. The inductors aren't so critical in value, since we
> have to wind them anyway. At a Q of 1.25, the C on the transistor
> end came out to 330pF, and the C toward the antenna came out to
> 390pF. Perfect! While there is very little harmonic attenuation
I'm getting those values at a Q of 1.75. I went back to your earlier
message and you did say Q=1.25, so I'm guessing it wasn't a typo.
At Q=1.25, I'm getting; C1=130pF, C2=328 and L of 0.5uH at 10.1Mhz.
Am I wrong?
> I hope it has helped you and others. Now you all know why doing
> RF design is as much Art as Science. Experience plays a large
You have helped big time!
I need to figure out the LPF, but I think I'll be all set.
Thanks!
73,
John, N1QO
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 03:18 PM 11/11/02 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>Wow - this is good stuff... ;)
>-snip-
> >>On to the Pi network; how does one figure out the loaded Q?
> >
> >
> > For a PI network, you pick it. The higher the value, the
> > more attenuation occurs at the harmonic frequencies, but
> > for very high values of Q, you can get rather ridiculous
> > values for the Cs and L. In my case, I did several interative
> > calculations, starting with a Q of 5 and working downward. I
> > was looking for values to pop out that were standard capacitor
> > values. The inductors aren't so critical in value, since we
> > have to wind them anyway. At a Q of 1.25, the C on the transistor
> > end came out to 330pF, and the C toward the antenna came out to
> > 390pF. Perfect! While there is very little harmonic attenuation
>
>I'm getting those values at a Q of 1.75. I went back to your earlier
>message and you did say Q=1.25, so I'm guessing it wasn't a typo.
>
>At Q=1.25, I'm getting; C1=130pF, C2=328 and L of 0.5uH at 10.1Mhz.
>
>Am I wrong?
Yes. I think you forgot the requirement that R1 must be greater than
R2. If you make R1=50 ohms, and R2=25 ohms and then turn the crank
using those formulas, you will get C1 = 394pF, C2 = 334pF, and
L = 0.547 uH. I'm guessing you have R1 and R2 reversed.
I used a Q of 1.25 for the above calculations.
-snip-
>I need to figure out the LPF, but I think I'll be all set.
>
>Thanks!
You are welcome John.
Have fun with the LPF.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi all,
I was just scoping out the varicap tester. I think I understand
every thing except-- I know the .1 uf cap is to block dc from the cap
meter; but doesn't this put the varicap's own capacitance in series
with the .1? Then does actual varicap Capitance equal .1*reading/
(reading-.1) ??
72
Jim
|
2479|2479|2002-11-11 20:52:24|john|Re: RF Design |Jim Kortge, K8IQY wrote:
>>At Q=1.25, I'm getting; C1=130pF, C2=328 and L of 0.5uH at 10.1Mhz.
>>
>>Am I wrong?
>
>
> Yes. I think you forgot the requirement that R1 must be greater than
> R2. If you make R1=50 ohms, and R2=25 ohms and then turn the crank
Ahem - you're right, of course... Here is what I end up with (and more
importantly, how);
Vcc2/2Po - gives us about 25ohms at the collector
Q=1.25
f=7.1^10^6 Hz (7.1Mhz)
R1=50ohms
R2=25ohms
(it's OK to switch these since the network is reciprocol, i.e. if either
end is terminated at 50ohms the other end will see 25ohms)
so, R1 > R2)
Xc1 = R1/Q
Capacitive Reactance of C1 is 40ohms
C=1/(2*pi*f*Xc): C=1 / (2pi * 7.1^10^6 * 40)
C1=560pF
Xc2 = R2 * SQRT ( (R1/R2) / Q^2 + 1 - (R1/R2) )
Xc2 = 47.14
C2=476pF
(now it gets fun)
Inductive Reactance of XL
XL = ((Q*R1) + ((R1*R2) / Xc2))) / (Q^2 + 1)
XL = 34.74
L = XL / 2*pi*f
L = .78uH
Subtract 60pf from one of the caps and we get:
C1=560pF
C2=410pF
L=.78uH
Really, really enjoyed learning all that!
Thanks again Jim, much appreciated.
73,
John, N1QO
> using those formulas, you will get C1 = 394pF, C2 = 334pF, and
> L = 0.547 uH. I'm guessing you have R1 and R2 reversed.
>
> I used a Q of 1.25 for the above calculations.
>
> -snip-
>
>
>
>>I need to figure out the LPF, but I think I'll be all set.
>>
>>Thanks!
>
>
> You are welcome John.
>
> Have fun with the LPF.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 12:09 AM 11/12/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>I was just scoping out the varicap tester. I think I understand
>every thing except-- I know the .1 uf cap is to block dc from the cap
>meter; but doesn't this put the varicap's own capacitance in series
>with the .1?
Yes.
> Then does actual varicap Capitance equal .1*reading/
>(reading-.1) ??
Close. That should be 0.1uF*reading/0.1uF-reading
However, if you do the math, you'll find that for a varicap
at 200pF, the error is less than 0.2 percent, so might as
well use the reading as the varicap value. That outcome wasn't
by accident, but factored into the design. That's why the
capacitor in series with the varicap is large compared to typical
varicap capacitance values.
Very good question though. Thanks for pointing it out Jim.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
In K8IQY's message about the Pi network and LPF he mentions that the
2n2-40 uses a 3-pole chebyshev LPF.
I've been reading about LPF's in the ARRL Handbook, however they start
out with a 5-pole Chebyshev. I've poked around the net a bit, but not
found a good reference for designing a 3-pole version.
Can someone provide a reference or more information?
Also, an ideal LPF passes anything below a certain freq with ideally 0db
attenuation and greatly attenuates above its passband (Jim mentions -3db
at 12Mhz for the 2n2/30). Assuming I did NOT install a LPF, how would I
measure the level of the harmonic frequencies from my transmitter?
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 09:35 PM 11/11/02 -0500, you wrote:
>In K8IQY's message about the Pi network and LPF he mentions that the
>2n2-40 uses a 3-pole chebyshev LPF.
>
>I've been reading about LPF's in the ARRL Handbook, however they start
>out with a 5-pole Chebyshev. I've poked around the net a bit, but not
>found a good reference for designing a 3-pole version.
Don't worry about it John. Just do the 5 pole design, and
then make the center capacitor 1/2 of its value if only
using the first 3 elements i.e., input capacitor, inductor, and
then output capacitor. Or make the output capacitor the same
value as the input capacitor if it is a symetrical design, which
I think all of the filters are in the handbook.
>Can someone provide a reference or more information?
Any good book on filters will have the formulas for 3 to
7 or more poles.
>Also, an ideal LPF passes anything below a certain freq with ideally 0db
>attenuation and greatly attenuates above its passband (Jim mentions -3db
>at 12Mhz for the 2n2/30). Assuming I did NOT install a LPF, how would I
>measure the level of the harmonic frequencies from my transmitter?
The ideal way is with a spectrum analyzer. But since most folks
don't have one sitting on the bench, you can use an absorbtive
wave meter. Tony, G4WIF had a nice design for one a few years back,
and was selling parts kits at Dayton. Perhaps he still offers that.
You could also use a grid dip meter with some degree of success, but
calibrating it is very time consuming, and somewhat inaccurate at
best. A scope with a FFT option also is a great solution, but alas,
also expensive, but not nearly the cost of a good spectrum analyzer.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....another good approach for doing filter design is to buy
Neils, of AADE fame, filter program. Works very well for all
kinds of filter designs, including crystal filters. Well worth
the nominal fee he charges. It is one of my work horse computer
tools, along with the disk that comes with Solid State Design for
the Radio Amateur. Those programs are also very useful, even if
they are DOS based.
If anyone has a dusty 4017 transverter kit on the shelf and would
like to sell it, please contact me. I'm starting up my 2N2-40 as
part of my post-surgical cardiac rehab and would like the
opportunity to add this transverter to my unit.
72
--Paul, wa0rse
|
2484|2478|2002-11-12 16:40:59|ki8h|Re: ?? on Varicap tester|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> However, ............
What I forgot to say because I was busy doping out how to account for
the series cap was this: What a great little device!! You're not
only clever, you build really pretty stuff. I'm impressed again.
Also nice to see a good photo of Neil's LC meter. I've got to get
one of those if I don't win the GenRad LCR bridge I'm bidding on.
(It would actually be better to have the AADE device, it takes up a
lot less space.)
72,
Jim KI8HPaul -
If you don't get any replies, you can easily roll your own. None of
the parts are "exotic" and all are easily available. If you do go this
route, contact the NJQRP group - they originally sold the kit - and see
if you could obtain a copy of the documentation that came with the kit.
As you probably know, it was a "bag-o-parts" kit so reproducing it is
easy.
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
2486|2478|2002-11-12 17:09:36|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: ?? on Varicap tester|At 09:40 PM 11/12/02 +0000, Jim KI8H wrote:
>--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> > However, ............
>What I forgot to say because I was busy doping out how to account for
>the series cap was this: What a great little device!! You're not
>only clever, you build really pretty stuff. I'm impressed again.
Thank you sir! I like to think of my creations as a new "artform"
that embodies function as well. Actually, only spoofing a bit.
I find building neatly does lend itself to ease in troubleshooting
if the need should arise later on.
>
>Also nice to see a good photo of Neil's LC meter. I've got to get
>one of those if I don't win the GenRad LCR bridge I'm bidding on.
>(It would actually be better to have the AADE device, it takes up a
>lot less space.)
Actually, having both is the hot setup. Neals AADE L/C tester
works really well, but can't do things like measure the primary
inductance of an audio output transformer which might have an inductance
of 500 milliHenry. Out of range for his unit. But the AADE shines
when you want to measure 0.5 microHenry toroid inductor you just
wound. I've got 2 L/C meters, the AADE, and one from Tenma for
larger inductances and capacitances. Use both all of the time.
72 and thanks for the nice comments Jim,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
I didn't realize that "Solid State Design for the Radio Amateur" came
with a disk. Are you sure you don't mean "Introduction to Radio
Frequency Design" by Wes Hayward?
Glenn Pederson, WB9QIQ
gpeder@elnet.com On 12 Nov 2002 at 14:52, Jim Kortge, K8IQY wrote:
> It is one of my work horse computer
> tools, along with the disk that comes with Solid State Design for
> the Radio Amateur.
At 08:17 PM 11/12/02 -0600, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>I didn't realize that "Solid State Design for the Radio Amateur" came
>with a disk. Are you sure you don't mean "Introduction to Radio
>Frequency Design" by Wes Hayward?
>
>Glenn Pederson, WB9QIQ
>gpeder@elnet.com
Ooops! You are correct Glenn, it was IRFD that contained the disk
with the design programs. Worth buying the book to get those
programs IMHO. Thanks for the correction.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
I've had some good luck with the SMT 2n20-40, making a QSO yesterday and
today.
I'm running about 4w with a 2sc2078 final using the matching network
described in an earlier message and LPF filter designed with this web
application;
http://www-users.cs.york.ac.uk/~fisher/lcfilter/ There have been some problems with the rcvr, and I partially attribute
them to building with SMT parts. The rcvr was cutting in and out. As I
pressed down on the board, it would "snap" back into working order -
sure sign of a cold or bad solder joint. Finding it (them) has been a
pain though. I applied light pressure to various places around the board
and as things popped and snapped I looked closely at the nearby parts. I
think I've got most of them now, but it's definitely harder to find than
with through-hole parts. I need to come up with an enclosure for this
puppy soon.
Tonight I'm going to be taking inventory and getting ready for a 2n2-30
build. I'm not tied to using SMT parts but will do so where it makes sense.
I'm also hoping to get on the air a bit with the 2n2-40 SMT this
evening, so look for me around the usual places if you happen to be on
tonight. I'll be using a straight key wired into the rig with patch
cables (in fact the rig is 'naked' on the bench and wired up with patch
cables to the pwr and ant).
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThe VFO in my 2n2-40 SMT seems to steadily drift upwards about 10hz
every two minutes or so. I haven't run it long enough to see if it
eventually stabilizes (I'll do that tomorrow).
Is there a way to compensate for this? I've got the NPO and Polysterene
C8 and C13.
Thanks es 73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAt 09:50 PM 11/13/02 -0500, John, N1QO wrote:
>The VFO in my 2n2-40 SMT seems to steadily drift upwards about 10hz
>every two minutes or so.
That's a relatively small amount. Glad it isn't 200 Hz every two
minutes.
> I haven't run it long enough to see if it
>eventually stabilizes (I'll do that tomorrow).
It probably does at some point.
>Is there a way to compensate for this? I've got the NPO and Polysterene
>C8 and C13.
You need to change the ratio of the NPO to polystyrene. At the moment,
since the drift is up (on the VFO?) that would suggest too much of
the poly's N150 ppm temco. You need just a little less poly cap, and
a little more NPO cap to take it to zero drift.
You will probably have to reduce C8 down to a 270pF poly, and add
a 56pF NPO in parallel with C13. If that doesn't work, go back
to the original values, and still pad C13 with small NPO capacitors,
while reducing the capacitance setting of TC4. Trimmer capacitors also
have a negative temperature coefficient.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
I have posted on QRP-L my desire to build a 2n2/40 and was refered
here by KG4FGC. I've downloaded all the schematics including the
alternate audio stage. from the K8IQY web page and was wondering if
they are the current ones And secondly i was wondering if anyone could
give me an estimate of total parts cost including case and knobs..
THanks in advance. Kc7eip/va7 Jason
|
2493|2490|2002-11-16 21:34:58|Howard Kraus|Re: drifty|Once you have the VFO winding where you like, "pot"
the core with 5-minute epoxy (Devcon, Radio Shack,
etc). Once covered, you won't be able to change the
winding, but they will be more immune from ambient
thermal conditions. This also makes the rig more
immune from "pranging" during sudden vibration or
mechanical shock. I potted both my 2N2/40's, and they
are rock stable.
I also potted all the toroids in my 2N2/6's, which I
am regretting right now. I need to change some
windings, that is, order more toroids and wind them
over again. Once I get the transverters to work, THEN
I'll pot the toroids!
GL es 72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- john <
john@wagner-usa.net> wrote:
> The VFO in my 2n2-40 SMT seems to steadily drift
> upwards about 10hz
> every two minutes or so. I haven't run it long
> enough to see if it
> eventually stabilizes (I'll do that tomorrow).
>
> Is there a way to compensate for this? I've got the
> NPO and Polysterene
> C8 and C13.
>
> Thanks es 73,
>
> John, N1QO
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.comJason,
Welcome to the group. You have definitely come to the right place for
help building the 2N2/40
The latest schematics are in the "Files" section. Download those
(.pdf files), as they are the latest and greates schematics and have
been built from many times. It is a very repeatable design.
As far as the cost goes, it all depends upon how much inventory you
already have :) All in all, you ought to be able to scrounge the
parts you need for less than $60. Considerably less if you have lots
of the parts already (resistors, caps, 2N2222's)
The parts are pretty standard and are easily acquired through places
like Dan's, Mouser, Digikey, etc...
I would recommend using the layout by AA0ZZ. It is an MS PowerPoint
presentation of the layout that is well laid out and very accurate.
Best 72, and let the group know if you run into any problems or have
any questions.
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "kc7eip" wrote:
> I have posted on QRP-L my desire to build a 2n2/40 and was refered
> here by KG4FGC. I've downloaded all the schematics including the
> alternate audio stage. from the K8IQY web page and was wondering if
> they are the current ones And secondly i was wondering if anyone could
> give me an estimate of total parts cost including case and knobs..
> THanks in advance. Kc7eip/va7 Jason
Hi Jason,
Impossible to estimate the cost exactly, really depends on what's in
your junque box etc.... Good news is you can go slow and build the radio
first, enclosing later. ;)
You should join the Yahoo group via the web and download the 2n2/40+
schematics from there. These are the latest and greatest from K8IQY. The
URL is
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/ Let us know what you have in your junque box and what you'll need - a
lot of members of this group have some parts to spare... I have some
donated parts left over from the last group build and can probably help
you out.
Proably the hardest thing to find will be a matched set of crystals for
your filter. Someone here might have a set available.
Good luck with your parts gathering.
73,
John, N1QO
kc7eip wrote:
> I have posted on QRP-L my desire to build a 2n2/40 and was refered
> here by KG4FGC. I've downloaded all the schematics including the
> alternate audio stage. from the K8IQY web page and was wondering if
> they are the current ones And secondly i was wondering if anyone could
> give me an estimate of total parts cost including case and knobs..
> THanks in advance. Kc7eip/va7 Jason
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI have pretty much the same tale to tell. I just now finished collecting all
the parts for mine, and I've spent a year doing it!! Building is planning on
starting over Thanksgiving week. Need to get some antennas in the air, and
ground system installed first! Hopefully catch you on the air.
72
.mark
|
2497|2497|2002-11-17 12:27:30|john|matching xtals for 2n2-30?|What are people doing as far as finding matching xtal sets for the
2n2-30? I'm in need of some but don't have a setup to do it.
Is someone interested in doing a run?
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comSaw this on QRPL...can anyone help Jason?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason" <kc7eip@shaw.ca>
To: "Low Power Amateur Radio Discussion" <qrp-l@Lehigh.EDU>
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 4:51 PM
Subject: 2n2/40 Parts search
> Well I was in the process of building a txcvr for my self and fell
short on
> my ability and price range... So it is on the back burner after
several
> E-mail responses and further searching I have decided to try my hand
at
> constructing a 2n2/40... I have gathered up all the schematic parts
list and
> mods that i can find. Now it's on to pricing and finding the
parts... So i
> thought i would try hear first. Does anyone happen to have a
complete set
> of parts they would be willing to part with for a fair price? I
have also
> heard that there may be a main board that is printed but not etched
or
> drilled if any one has one of those available I may have interest in
it as
> well... Thanks in advance.
>
> Kc7eip/Va7
>
>
>
Thanks Brian :)... I had already been refered to this group. I do
thank you for your effort i've noticed there are alot of people
willing to lend a hand out there :). As for my parts search although i
havn't been lucky enough to find a single source for parts I have
dropped the list off at the local electronic store and they are
putting togeather what they can for me. So hopefully soon i'll have
atleast some of the parts to start with :)... Also to the group what
test equipment is needed to call the the 2n2/40? tks in adv and tks
again Brian for you help.
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Brian" wrote:
> Saw this on QRPL...can anyone help Jason?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jason"
> To: "Low Power Amateur Radio Discussion"
> Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 4:51 PM
> Subject: 2n2/40 Parts search
>
>
> > Well I was in the process of building a txcvr for my self and fell
> short on
> > my ability and price range... So it is on the back burner after
> several
> > E-mail responses and further searching I have decided to try my hand
> at
> > constructing a 2n2/40... I have gathered up all the schematic parts
> list and
> > mods that i can find. Now it's on to pricing and finding the
> parts... So i
> > thought i would try hear first. Does anyone happen to have a
> complete set
> > of parts they would be willing to part with for a fair price? I
> have also
> > heard that there may be a main board that is printed but not etched
> or
> > drilled if any one has one of those available I may have interest in
> it as
> > well... Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Kc7eip/Va7
> >
> >
> >
Jason,
The bare minimum I used to tune up my 2N2/40's was an
Icom transceiver. If you have an HF rig sitting
around that has general coverage reception, that's
about all you need. You can hear the VFO at its
frequency, you can use the big rig into a dummy load
at reduced power to align the 2N2's receiver, and use
that same rig to test the 2Ns's transmitter and adjust
the xmit offset. Building the RIT? Same rig will
come in handy.
I thought of selling my big station rig, but found it
makes a dandy "poor man's" communication analyzer! I
wish it worked at VHF and could measure signal levels
accurately.
GL es 72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- kc7eip <
cto2_benson@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks Brian :)... I had already been refered to
> this group. I do
> thank you for your effort i've noticed there are
> alot of people
> willing to lend a hand out there :). As for my parts
> search although i
> havn't been lucky enough to find a single source for
> parts I have
> dropped the list off at the local electronic store
> and they are
> putting togeather what they can for me. So
> hopefully soon i'll have
> atleast some of the parts to start with :)... Also
> to the group what
> test equipment is needed to call the the 2n2/40?
> tks in adv and tks
> again Brian for you help.
> --- In 2n2-40@y..., "Brian" wrote:
> > Saw this on QRPL...can anyone help Jason?
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jason"
> > To: "Low Power Amateur Radio Discussion"
>
> > Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 4:51 PM
> > Subject: 2n2/40 Parts search
> >
> >
> > > Well I was in the process of building a txcvr
> for my self and fell
> > short on
> > > my ability and price range... So it is on the
> back burner after
> > several
> > > E-mail responses and further searching I have
> decided to try my hand
> > at
> > > constructing a 2n2/40... I have gathered up all
> the schematic parts
> > list and
> > > mods that i can find. Now it's on to pricing and
> finding the
> > parts... So i
> > > thought i would try hear first. Does anyone
> happen to have a
> > complete set
> > > of parts they would be willing to part with for
> a fair price? I
> > have also
> > > heard that there may be a main board that is
> printed but not etched
> > or
> > > drilled if any one has one of those available I
> may have interest in
> > it as
> > > well... Thanks in advance.
> > >
> > > Kc7eip/Va7
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.comi haddn't thought aboutusing the big rig as test equipment. Lacking a
big rig of my own. Budget and xyl prohibits such luxuries.. But i do
have some friends that will probably be able to lend me a hand. I
should have a 10 mhz O scope shortly so with a little math i think i
can use it for mesuring freq as well.. So with any luck that and my
dmm i should be good to go if i can't get ahold of a decent receiver.
Tks again for the idea as it would have taken me quite a while to
think of it. :)
--- In 2n2-40@y..., Howard Kraus wrote:
> Jason,
>
> The bare minimum I used to tune up my 2N2/40's was an
> Icom transceiver. If you have an HF rig sitting
> around that has general coverage reception, that's
> about all you need. You can hear the VFO at its
> frequency, you can use the big rig into a dummy load
> at reduced power to align the 2N2's receiver, and use
> that same rig to test the 2Ns's transmitter and adjust
> the xmit offset. Building the RIT? Same rig will
> come in handy.
>
> I thought of selling my big station rig, but found it
> makes a dandy "poor man's" communication analyzer! I
> wish it worked at VHF and could measure signal levels
> accurately.
>
I echo Howard's comments. While I had a scope, the best and most critical
pieces of test equipment were my DVM (for finding shorts and verifying for
the 23rd time that the trifilar was wound incorrectly for the third time in
a row...) and my Icom QRO rig. Come to think about it, early on I also used
a crystal checker with a 7.040 crystal in it as a signal source. I don't
think I ever found anything wrong with the scope, tho it did help tune the
front end.
Of course, after you are finished and the 2N2-40 is operational, you can
then justify buying an HP6040 and two HP400 AC voltmeters like I did. Now,
since I bought the nice test equipment, I am forced to build another radio!
73 de Lee, KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard Kraus" <kaytwoyoudee@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Fw: 2n2/40 Parts search
> Jason,
>
> The bare minimum I used to tune up my 2N2/40's was an
> Icom transceiver. If you have an HF rig sitting
I don't think I can get away with getting anything top of the line
like that I had a hard enough time justifing my drill and bit set or
my dremel set. But we shall see what the christmas fairy brings.
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Lee Mairs \(SAG\)" wrote:
> I echo Howard's comments. While I had a scope, the best and most
critical
> pieces of test equipment were my DVM (for finding shorts and
verifying for
> the 23rd time that the trifilar was wound incorrectly for the third
time in
> a row...) and my Icom QRO rig. Come to think about it, early on I
also used
> a crystal checker with a 7.040 crystal in it as a signal source. I
don't
> think I ever found anything wrong with the scope, tho it did help
tune the
> front end.
>
>
Well i have all the online schematics that I could want' Maby more.. Now
i was wondering if i should try and get a copy of Norcals edition
focusing on the 2n2/40 and if so which issue might that be and who
should i contact to try and obtain one? Tks in adv.
|
2505|2504|2002-11-19 05:04:53|john|Re: Norcal 2n2/40 issue?|Here is the info:
> Guys if you are interested in building the 2N2/40 from the QRPp article,
> (actually a whole issue devoted to one subject), you can order a copy
of the
> issue from Paul Harden, NA5N, at Quicksilver Printing, PO Box 757,
Socorro,
> NM 87801 for $12 postpaid. Please enclose a self addressed mailing label
> and indicate that you are ordering the 2N2/40 Special Issue of QRPp.
Be forewarned: there are errors in the article, you should downlaod the
errata sheet from Jim's website. Also, the rig built in that issue has
been updated to the 2n2-40+ (schematics on the Yahoo site) and you
should build the newer version of the radio.
Good luck!
73,
John, N1QO
kc7eip wrote:
> Well i have all the online schematics that I could want' Maby more.. Now
> i was wondering if i should try and get a copy of Norcals edition
> focusing on the 2n2/40 and if so which issue might that be and who
> should i contact to try and obtain one? Tks in adv.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comAs part of my cardiac rehab, I've started my 2n2-40! I think I have
most of the parts in hand. Cleaned copper and clipped some
square pads from strips I'd received months ago. The T-R
switch is wired up! Squeezed it a little bit into a 1" x 1.5" (vs 1" x
2"). I'm now trying to figure out if the VFO layout of the original will
work OK. May start laying down pads and melting solder on that
tomorrow. I'm taking digipix as I go.
72
--Paul
|
2507|2506|2002-11-20 22:01:53|Lee Mairs (SAG)|Re: Assembly finally started!|Just make sure that you use colored wire when you wind those &*^%$!!
trifilar cores. It was very stressful on my heart! But the rest of it was
just so satisfying...
73 de Lee
km4yy
----- Original Message -----
From: "wa0rse" <beckmann@acm.org>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 7:47 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Assembly finally started!
> As part of my cardiac rehab, I've started my 2n2-40! I think I have
> most of the parts in hand. Cleaned copper and clipped some
> square pads from strips I'd received months ago. The T-R
> switch is wired up! Squeezed it a little bit into a 1" x 1.5" (vs 1" x
> 2"). I'm now trying to figure out if the VFO layout of the original will
> work OK. May start laying down pads and melting solder on that
> tomorrow. I'm taking digipix as I go.
> 72
> --Paul
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 12:47 AM 11/21/02 +0000, you wrote:
>As part of my cardiac rehab, I've started my 2n2-40! I think I have
>most of the parts in hand. Cleaned copper and clipped some
>square pads from strips I'd received months ago. The T-R
>switch is wired up! Squeezed it a little bit into a 1" x 1.5" (vs 1" x
>2"). I'm now trying to figure out if the VFO layout of the original will
>work OK. May start laying down pads and melting solder on that
>tomorrow. I'm taking digipix as I go.
>72
>--Paul
Paul,
Really great to hear that you are started. If building this rig
does wonders for your cardiac rehab, maybe we can recommend it for
all cardiac patients! :-)
Seriously, I for one am delighted everything went well in the
operating room, and you're back home and fighting your way back
to good health.
As for layouts, do get stuck with what others have done. Manhattan-
style is very forgiving, so almost any layout will work. Just think
about where the signals have to go to guide your work.
Anxious to see those digipix as you proceed too.
72 and GL with the build,
Jim, K8IQY
Well before I jump in I better ask Just how hard is the 2n2/40 to build.
I am an electronics tech but my experience is a little bit on the
lacking side. Should I attempt one of kit projects first then try my
hand at the 2n2/40? The only kit I've built so far is the Pixie II.
Secondly I've seen too techniques one involving gluing of pads the
other involved using a modified bit to cut islands on the board where
the pads would go. Has anyone tried the island technique? If not does
anyone know a source to get a bag full of the little nibles/pads?
|
2510|2509|2002-11-22 15:48:33|iiiofvii|Re: Difficulty level? Pads?|--- In 2n2-40@y..., "kc7eip"
wrote:
> Well before I jump in I better ask Just how hard is the 2n2/40 to
build.
> I am an electronics tech but my experience is a little bit on the
> lacking side. Should I attempt one of kit projects first then try
my
> hand at the 2n2/40? The only kit I've built so far is the Pixie
II.
> Secondly I've seen too techniques one involving gluing of pads the
> other involved using a modified bit to cut islands on the board
where
> the pads would go. Has anyone tried the island technique? If not
does
> anyone know a source to get a bag full of the little nibles/pads?
*********************************************************************
*
I have been working on building a 2n2/40 but progress was
interuppted when I moved. From my experience, the 2n2/40 is not bad
to build if one pays attention ( as in the case of all kits). I use
the gluing pad technique as I did not have a dremel tool handy. I
made my pads using a radio shack nibbler tool. I think radioshack
may even sell some double sided ckt boared material. Not the
neatest pads but they work out okay. I used super glue--it seems to
handle the soldering iron temp (used an 800 degree conical tip 40
watt iron). Check out k7qo's web site. I think he may have some
material. I am not sure how much material you may, but I am sure the
members of this group are not lacking. Good luck in building the 2n2.
Scott AB2CDDisclaimer: I have yet to use island style building.
I think the Island technique is useful if you already have a good idea
how the pads are going to fall. This being your first try, I suggest you
use pads and glue so you can fix any mistakes.
I use the harbor freight tool to punch pads - don't know where to buy
them pre-punched. Anybody know?
As far as difficulty, the 2n2-40 is not EASY, but it's not's terribly
difficult. You start with the Rx/Tx switch, which is easy and a good
warm up. If you can build that, you can do the rest of the radio. As has
been mentioned here before, get three different colors of Mag wire for
your trifilar's, otherwise I can pretty much guarantee problems.
73,
John, N1QO
kc7eip wrote:
> Well before I jump in I better ask Just how hard is the 2n2/40 to build.
> I am an electronics tech but my experience is a little bit on the
> lacking side. Should I attempt one of kit projects first then try my
> hand at the 2n2/40? The only kit I've built so far is the Pixie II.
> Secondly I've seen too techniques one involving gluing of pads the
> other involved using a modified bit to cut islands on the board where
> the pads would go. Has anyone tried the island technique? If not does
> anyone know a source to get a bag full of the little nibles/pads?
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comGroup,
>
> I use the harbor freight tool to punch pads - don't know where to buy
> them pre-punched. Anybody know?
I seem to remember Dan's carrying a bag of them... Don't remember quantity
or price...
72
.mark
Hello all.
The pads are on Dan's Small Parts.
500 Manhattan Pads $5.00 per bag of 500,
under Odds and Ends.
72/73
Bob...VE3CRM
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.419 / Virus Database: 235 - Release Date: 13/11/2002
|
2514|2514|2002-11-24 17:27:12|wa0rse|VFO parts anyone?|Thought I had all the parts for the VFO but ended up short the
MVAM109 and the 1N4735A Zener. Anyone have spares they'd
want to part with? It makes a pretty small mail order otherwise.
The VFO is all but complete. Have to wind up the two torroids
and think about how I want to connect the pot. I'm thinking about
a little three-conductor cable connector. We'll see. It did get a
little tight at a couple of junctions but possible, even with a
bigger Weller tip.
72
--Paul wa0rse
|
2515|2513|2002-11-24 20:50:12|Mark Schoonover|Re: Pads|This is a pretty good deal. It would take me forever to punch 500 pads!!
72
.mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob McKellar [mailto:ve3crm@rac.ca]
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2002 5:18 PM
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [2n2-40] Pads
Hello all.
The pads are on Dan's Small Parts.
500 Manhattan Pads $5.00 per bag of 500,
under Odds and Ends.
72/73
Bob...VE3CRM
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.419 / Virus Database: 235 - Release Date: 13/11/2002
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
2516|2516|2002-11-24 21:22:11|kc7eip|Pots???|Help Dans has all the apropriate pots i think my only Just wondering
if there 20 turn cermet is ok for pot 4 and also i'm a bit confused as
the parts list lists pot 1 as 10 k and on the schematic it's listed as
20k 10 turn... Can anyone help out sourting of pots?? tks in adv..
|
2517|2514|2002-11-25 03:48:37|Dennis Ponsness|Re: VFO parts anyone?|Paul,
I have the Zener... send me a SASE and I will put a few in for ya.
Dennis Ponsness
509 First Street
Oscoda, MI 48750
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
NJQRP #329 - FPQRP #-347 - SOC #499
GACW #622 - ARS #1363
FISTS # 9299
Michigan DX Association
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemailAt 05:47 PM 11/24/02 -0800, you wrote:
>This is a pretty good deal. It would take me forever to punch 500 pads!!
>
>72
>
>.mark
Anyone know their diameter, and material they are made from?
Enquiring minds want to know!!
72
Jim, K8IQY
"I punch my own pads!" :-)
At 02:22 AM 11/25/02 +0000, kc7eip wrote:
>Help Dans has all the apropriate pots i think my only Just wondering
>if there 20 turn cermet is ok for pot 4
No. You really want a 1 turn pot for pot4, but it needs to be
cermet or plastic, since it will be controlling RF. Wire wound
pots have inductance, which is very undesireable for this location.
> and also i'm a bit confused as
>the parts list lists pot 1 as 10 k and on the schematic it's listed as
>20k 10 turn...
I'm guessing that you are looking at an old parts list or something
Go to the files section of Yahoo, and download the schematics and
parts list for the 2N240+. That is the latest version, and recommended
as the version to build. Better performance than the earlier flavors
of the rig.
> Can anyone help out sourting of pots??
The RIT pot inadvertently got listed as R70, a 1K center detent,
1 turn pot. I've been using Mouser part number ME313-2000-1K
for this pot. Inexpensive, and a good center detent. Works well.
> tks in adv..
You are welcome. For all of the newcomers to the list, there
is a lot of information posted on Yahoo, and trying to find the latest
versions can be a bit confusing. Just look for 2N2/40+ information,
as most, if not all of that informations represents the most recent
and up-to-date info that has been posted.
72 and GL to all of the new builders.
Jim, K8IQY
THanks again looking for the newer parts list now... And I'd love to
make my own pads but i have no nibbler right now and an ich to build a
radio :)... One good thing about building the 2n3/40 My non-existant
parts bin will have quite abit of parts after this.. I'm kindof glad
in a way that most parts from dans come in lots of 10... it will give
me a few extras.. I'm actually buying a few extras my self just
because i don't want to pay shipping again when i need just one
part... I had a incident with mouser where i needed a .35 part and i
couldn't get it as the min order for foreign countries including
canada is 100$..
--- In 2n2-40@y..., "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" wrote:
> At 02:22 AM 11/25/02 +0000, kc7eip wrote:
>
> >Help Dans has all the apropriate pots i think my only Just wondering
> >if there 20 turn cermet is ok for pot 4
>
> No. You really want a 1 turn pot for pot4, but it needs to be
> cermet or plastic, since it will be controlling RF. Wire wound
> pots have inductance, which is very undesireable for this location.
>
> > and also i'm a bit confused as
> >the parts list lists pot 1 as 10 k and on the schematic it's listed as
> >20k 10 turn...
>
> I'm guessing that you are looking at an old parts list or something
> Go to the files section of Yahoo, and download the schematics and
> parts list for the 2N240+. That is the latest version, and recommended
> as the version to build. Better performance than the earlier flavors
> of the rig.
>
> > Can anyone help out sourting of pots??
>
> The RIT pot inadvertently got listed as R70, a 1K center detent,
> 1 turn pot. I've been using Mouser part number ME313-2000-1K
> for this pot. Inexpensive, and a good center detent. Works well.
>
> > tks in adv..
>
> You are welcome. For all of the newcomers to the list, there
> is a lot of information posted on Yahoo, and trying to find the latest
> versions can be a bit confusing. Just look for 2N2/40+ information,
> as most, if not all of that informations represents the most recent
> and up-to-date info that has been posted.
>
> 72 and GL to all of the new builders.
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Hello everyone. I am a qrp wannabe and have been monitoring this board for
quite a while and have really come away with a profound respect for all of
you guys and gals that offer support in this hobby.....
I have built my SW - 20+ and am slowly going about trying to understand the
theory and alignment.....
I have a million questions but as I go through the archives a lot of them
are answered....
I have 2 questions if you don't mind,
1) I have a rather high and sturdy TV aerial ( apox. 40 foot ) ....can you
tell me what kind of cheap / effective antenna I could hook up and at least
start receiving signals...( as in, can I get away with the coax coming from
the Yagi now? )
2) does anyone ever try to use voice with 5 or 10 watts or is that just
impractical....?
Thanks again, and I hope to be trading dits and dahs with y'all soon.
Kenny Mac
A+ Net+ iNet+ MCP MCSE
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2522|2521|2002-11-26 08:04:05|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: rookie question|At 03:20 AM 11/26/02 -0500, Kenny Mac wrote:
>Hello everyone. I am a qrp wannabe and have been monitoring this board for
>quite a while and have really come away with a profound respect for all of
>you guys and gals that offer support in this hobby.....
>
>I have built my SW - 20+ and am slowly going about trying to understand the
>theory and alignment.....
Good rig!!
>I have a million questions but as I go through the archives a lot of them
>are answered....
>
>I have 2 questions if you don't mind,
>
>1) I have a rather high and sturdy TV aerial ( apox. 40 foot ) ....can you
>tell me what kind of cheap / effective antenna I could hook up and at least
>start receiving signals...( as in, can I get away with the coax coming from
>the Yagi now? )
Use only the center conductor of the coax. That, plus the TV antenna
itself attached to the center of the coax ought to receive signals
quite well. It could even be used as a transmitting antenna on 20 meters
if a tuner were used, and the whole thing worked against ground. If
you use it as a transmitting antenna, disconnect any TV sets that might
be using the antenna, otherwise you may fry the front-ends of those
sets.
>2) does anyone ever try to use voice with 5 or 10 watts or is that just
>impractical....?
Yes, quite frequently, especially running bicycle mobile while in
motion. With a good antenna, one can make lots of contacts. You
have to pick your stations though. Only the rally loud ones will
be able to hear you.
>Thanks again, and I hope to be trading dits and dahs with y'all soon.
72 and have fun,
Jim, K8IQY
Kenny Mac - I suggest a dipole for 20 M. While you are at it, you might also
put a 40 M and 10 M dipole in parallel for future band choices. The 40 M
dipole will work at 15 M, but you may need a tuner for that. The Handbook
or Antenna Book will tell you all you need to know about how to build a
dipole. If you don't have one, the library will have one, or can get you one
on interlibrary loan.
Here is an idea I gleaned from an old, 1948, Antenna Book on how you can use
the TV support for an antenna. Why it is not in the latest books is beyond
me. This sounds like it won't work, but it will. I have used it before.
Get a long slippery rope. Polyproplene is good.
Circle the guy wires with it and tie a loose slip knot. You have a giant
loop around the guy wires with an end to pull.
Tie the dipole center support to a convenient point on the loop.
Now lay out the remaining rope away from the support. Get as far from the
support as the rope will allow.
Now slowly pull on the end of the rope, gradually tightening the loop.
The loop will tighten and simultaneously climb the circled guy wires,
pulling the dipole with it. It sometimes helps to have assistants hold the
ends of the dipoles to avoid tangles. You should be able to find many as by
now you will have attracted your wife, family, and many neighborhood kids
who are wondering what that crazy neighbor is up to.
You will reach a point where the rope will no longer climb the guy wires.
You can get it higher by snaping the rope up and down. You won't be able to
get it all the way to the top, but it will go up pretty far. Stake out the
ends of the dipoles as inverted vees.
The polypropylene rope will deteriorate in a few years in the sun. That is
God's way of telling you that you need a better antenna.
If you need more details, I can draw a picture. It sounds more complicated
than it is.
I hope that this helps. - Dr. Megacycle KK6MC/5
--
James R. Duffey KK6MC/5
Cedar Crest, NM DM65
|
2524|2524|2002-12-02 16:56:09|pswarman|D8, D14, D15|Sorry, this has to be a real dumb question but what is a 2V diode as
used for D8, D14 and D15?
Is there a construction manual anywhere for this rig on the net, I
can't seem to find one.
Regards and thanks for the bandwidth.
Paul, G0odp
|
2525|2524|2002-12-02 17:09:01|john|Re: D8, D14, D15|Hi Paul,
It's an LED with a 2v drop.
There is K8IQY's website,
http://www.qsl.net/k8iqy/ - there is also the
back issue of QRPp devoted to the rig available from NA5N (search the
message archives for the address). Both of these detail the original
2n2/40 - the schematics on the Yahoo site are for the + model and it is
recommended you build that model. The K8IQY site and QRPp are still very
useful for reference.
Last not but not least there is this group and our Yahoo website with
more pictures and info than you can shake a dipole at. ;)
73,
John, N1QO
pswarman wrote:
> Sorry, this has to be a real dumb question but what is a 2V diode as
> used for D8, D14 and D15?
>
> Is there a construction manual anywhere for this rig on the net, I
> can't seem to find one.
>
> Regards and thanks for the bandwidth.
>
> Paul, G0odp
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHi Guys,
I have PN 2222 transistors and most of the resistors (all but 14
values) for the 2n2-30. If there is some serious interest, I will
buy the rest of the resistor values in quantity and make them
available here for my cost plus postage expense.
The transistors I can do now at 20 for $1.75 postpaid in the U.S.
(and P.R. too Hans).
My best guess on the 80 resistors (all new carbon film full lead 1/4
W) resistors is likely to be $2.35 postpaid.
Anyone interested???
Jim,
KI8H
|
2527|2526|2002-12-04 21:35:31|john|Re: Resistors and PN2222 transistors for 2n2-30|I would be interested for sure. Thanks for doing this!
73,
John, N1QO
ki8h wrote:
> Hi Guys,
> I have PN 2222 transistors and most of the resistors (all but 14
> values) for the 2n2-30. If there is some serious interest, I will
> buy the rest of the resistor values in quantity and make them
> available here for my cost plus postage expense.
>
> The transistors I can do now at 20 for $1.75 postpaid in the U.S.
> (and P.R. too Hans).
>
> My best guess on the 80 resistors (all new carbon film full lead 1/4
> W) resistors is likely to be $2.35 postpaid.
>
> Anyone interested???
>
> Jim,
> KI8H
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comI'll take two sets of Rs. When and where for the money. Paypal?
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "john" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Resistors and PN2222 transistors for 2n2-30
> I would be interested for sure. Thanks for doing this!
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> ki8h wrote:
> > Hi Guys,
> > I have PN 2222 transistors and most of the resistors (all but 14
> > values) for the 2n2-30. If there is some serious interest, I will
> > buy the rest of the resistor values in quantity and make them
> > available here for my cost plus postage expense.
> >
> > The transistors I can do now at 20 for $1.75 postpaid in the U.S.
> > (and P.R. too Hans).
> >
> > My best guess on the 80 resistors (all new carbon film full lead 1/4
> > W) resistors is likely to be $2.35 postpaid.
> >
> > Anyone interested???
> >
> > Jim,
> > KI8H
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> John Wagner - john@wagner-usa.net
> Web page: http://www.neknetwork.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Put me down for the transistors and resistors...let me know when you are
ready, and you can send them all together.
Thanks...
Del, AD6WE
|
2530|2530|2002-12-04 23:50:18|dek8gd|2N2/30 #002 is on the air|Hey guys.
I'm a little late in getting this message out, but 2N2/30 #002 is on
the air! I had a little trouble with the transmitter, and still need
to do a couple of things to it, but I have lots of QSO's in the logs
with this puppy. It had to have a little TLC from Jim :)
You guys are going to love this thing.
I built my transmitter stage with a SBM, like the 2N2/40. That seems
to be causing some problems, so I have a DBM to put in. I just need
to find some time to do it. Right now my output is only 1.5 watts,
but I'm hoping that with the DBM and possibly some hotter transistors
in the Tx circuit (thanks Jim) will do the trick to get me at least to
a full gallon!
Best 72 to the group and have fun!
Jeff - K8GD
|
2531|2531|2002-12-05 19:41:41|ki8h|Resistors and Transistors|OK guys,
I'll get my order together and get it out this weekend. I'll
annnounce here when I'm ready for "hard" orders. Tnx for the quick
response.
BTW, I sent my money for a reprint of the original QRP-p 2N2-40 issue
to Paul (NA5N) about a month ago and I've heard nothing; has anybody
heard from him recently? I hope nothing is amiss in his world.
72,
Jim KI8H
|
2532|2531|2002-12-05 20:07:38|Steve Smith|Re: Resistors and Transistors|Jim,
Paul posted to the list a month ago or so ago that he got a promotion but
along w/ that were many more duties that were keeping him -way- busy.
Don't know if that's what's up but I'd bet it is.
na5n@zianet.net 73.......Steve Smith WB6TNL
Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
--I know you believe you understand what you think I said,
but I am not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.--
On Fri, 06 Dec 2002 00:41:37 -0000 "ki8h" <
ki8h@amsat.org> writes:
> OK guys,
> I'll get my order together and get it out this weekend. I'll
> annnounce here when I'm ready for "hard" orders. Tnx for the quick
>
> response.
>
> BTW, I sent my money for a reprint of the original QRP-p 2N2-40
> issue
> to Paul (NA5N) about a month ago and I've heard nothing; has anybody
>
> heard from him recently? I hope nothing is amiss in his world.
>
> 72,
> Jim KI8H
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Only $9.95 per month!
Visit www.juno.com
Jim,
Hopefully I'm not too late to take you up on your
generous offer for resistors and PN2222's for the
2n2-30. (I'm curious about the meaning of the 'a'
suffix in 'PN2222a'.)
To make it just one shipment, I'll send you payment
for a set of each when you are ready.
Possibly I've already succeeded in acquiring all
the needed toroids, from Dan's. But I've got to check
the contents of the latest little package, received
yesterday. (I've found Dan prompt and reliable in
filling the two modest orders I've sent him so far.)
I've been thinking of the capacitors and crystals,
and the other components needed for the 2n2-30 (and
2n2-40).
To gather enough crystals to do the matching for
several filters apparently requires a sizable
investment. It's more than I am comfortable about
shelling out.
I've been mulling over ways that a group of us could
share both the cost of acquiring an adequately large
bunch of mechanically identical crystals (from the
same manufacturer), and the task of making-up matched
sets.
Yesterday I received also in the mail my very first
copy of QRP Homebrewer, from NJQRP. I see it has a
nicely designed cover, and that this issue's cover
features a really good photo of your crystal-matching
oscillator.
I'm about to open the neat transparent plastic
envelope containing that copy, and to begin reading
the article within that I think you wrote -- on the
process of matching crystals.
73s from the Isle of Enchantment,
Hans W / WP4GVW (ex KP4ABF)
--
--- ki8h <
ki8h@amsat.org> wrote:
> Hi Guys,
> I have PN 2222 transistors and most of the resistors
> (all but 14
> values) for the 2n2-30. If there is some serious
> interest, I will
> buy the rest of the resistor values in quantity and
> make them
> available here for my cost plus postage expense.
>
> The transistors I can do now at 20 for $1.75
> postpaid in the U.S.
> (and P.R. too Hans).
>
> My best guess on the 80 resistors (all new carbon
> film full lead 1/4
> W) resistors is likely to be $2.35 postpaid.
>
> Anyone interested???
>
> Jim,
> KI8H
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.comHi gang.
I just wanted to let you guys know that I posted 4 new pics of 2N2/30
#002 in the photos section under the K8GD folder. It is complete and
works exceptionally well.
I'm getting over 10 watts out at the maximum setting, and as I have
said before, the Rx works extremely well. You guys will be impressed
when you build this thing. It is a real treat.
Please take a look and let me know what you think. The case I used is
the cover off of an old computer power supply. It ended up working
out surprisingly well.
Best 72.
Jeff - K8GD
|
2535|2534|2002-12-13 06:06:25|k8gz |Re: New 2N2/30 Pics|--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "dek8gd
"
wrote:
> Please take a look and let me know what you think.
>
> Best 72.
>
> Jeff - K8GD
Wow, Jeff.
It looks great. You really compacted it. I'll be looking
forward to hearing about some contacts with it and seeing
it at FDIM.
72,
Kaye, K8GZ Lancaster, OHJeff -
Very nice job! Now how about telling us about the mounting enclosure
details. Any birdie problems? How did you to the enclosure labeling?
I really like the way you were able to tuck the sections into that cabinet.
That should have improved VFO shielding immensely. I had to go back and
make a pc board shield around the VFO in order to keep the birds at bay on
my 2N2-40.
73 de Lee
km4yy
----- Original Message -----
From: <jhecht@dnaco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 10:40 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] New 2N2/30 Pics
> Hi gang.
>
> I just wanted to let you guys know that I posted 4 new pics of 2N2/30
> #002 in the photos section under the K8GD folder. It is complete and
> works exceptionally well.
>
> I'm getting over 10 watts out at the maximum setting, and as I have
> said before, the Rx works extremely well. You guys will be impressed
> when you build this thing. It is a real treat.
>
> Please take a look and let me know what you think. The case I used is
> the cover off of an old computer power supply. It ended up working
> out surprisingly well.
>
> Best 72.
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
There is a very slight birdie (up near 10.140 or so and not very
noticeable), but doesn't cause any problems since there isn't a whole
lot of CW activity up there. Otherwise it is as quiet as a mouse.
The enclosure labeling I did using MS Powerpoint. I printed the slide
on a piece of overhead transparency material, and it is held in place
by the controls, etc. Any place that it is a little loose (like the
lower left of the back panel), I used a small piece of clear tape to
hold it down. This method works really well for my needs.
I still need to manufacture a top for the little guy. I have a lot of
sheet metal from the tops of old junked VCR's, so I'm thinking I will
make one out of that and fasten it on with small tapped L brackets.
I'll report back when I figure out what works.
Keep the board posted on the progress of the other 2N2/30's.
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> Jeff -
> Very nice job! Now how about telling us about the mounting enclosure
> details. Any birdie problems? How did you to the enclosure labeling?
>
> I really like the way you were able to tuck the sections into that
cabinet.
> That should have improved VFO shielding immensely. I had to go back and
> make a pc board shield around the VFO in order to keep the birds at
bay on
> my 2N2-40.
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 10:40 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] New 2N2/30 Pics
>
>
> > Hi gang.
> >
> > I just wanted to let you guys know that I posted 4 new pics of 2N2/30
> > #002 in the photos section under the K8GD folder. It is complete and
> > works exceptionally well.
> >
> > I'm getting over 10 watts out at the maximum setting, and as I have
> > said before, the Rx works extremely well. You guys will be impressed
> > when you build this thing. It is a real treat.
> >
> > Please take a look and let me know what you think. The case I used is
> > the cover off of an old computer power supply. It ended up working
> > out surprisingly well.
> >
> > Best 72.
> >
> > Jeff - K8GD
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
Old computer cases also make a great source for making radio cases. Plenty
around, easy to bend, cut, punch and drill... Outside is already prepped for
painting.
72
.mark
|
2539|2534|2002-12-13 19:18:25|john|Re: New 2N2/30 Pics|WOW!!!! What a nice looking radio! Great job on the enclosure too.
Congrats Jeff, that is a really clean looking rig. Enjoy!
73,
John, N1QO
dek8gd wrote:
> Hi gang.
>
> I just wanted to let you guys know that I posted 4 new pics of 2N2/30
> #002 in the photos section under the K8GD folder. It is complete and
> works exceptionally well.
>
> I'm getting over 10 watts out at the maximum setting, and as I have
> said before, the Rx works extremely well. You guys will be impressed
> when you build this thing. It is a real treat.
>
> Please take a look and let me know what you think. The case I used is
> the cover off of an old computer power supply. It ended up working
> out surprisingly well.
>
> Best 72.
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comHow do I go about to see your pictures? Can you send them as a file attachment?
I have DSL, just send them to this site:
car.dan2@verizon.net Thanks, like to see them. Dan, N6FPE
"dek8gd <
jhecht@dnaco.net>" <
jhecht@dnaco.net> wrote:There is a very slight birdie (up near 10.140 or so and not very
noticeable), but doesn't cause any problems since there isn't a whole
lot of CW activity up there. Otherwise it is as quiet as a mouse.
The enclosure labeling I did using MS Powerpoint. I printed the slide
on a piece of overhead transparency material, and it is held in place
by the controls, etc. Any place that it is a little loose (like the
lower left of the back panel), I used a small piece of clear tape to
hold it down. This method works really well for my needs.
I still need to manufacture a top for the little guy. I have a lot of
sheet metal from the tops of old junked VCR's, so I'm thinking I will
make one out of that and fasten it on with small tapped L brackets.
I'll report back when I figure out what works.
Keep the board posted on the progress of the other 2N2/30's.
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> Jeff -
> Very nice job! Now how about telling us about the mounting enclosure
> details. Any birdie problems? How did you to the enclosure labeling?
>
> I really like the way you were able to tuck the sections into that
cabinet.
> That should have improved VFO shielding immensely. I had to go back and
> make a pc board shield around the VFO in order to keep the birds at
bay on
> my 2N2-40.
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 10:40 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] New 2N2/30 Pics
>
>
> > Hi gang.
> >
> > I just wanted to let you guys know that I posted 4 new pics of 2N2/30
> > #002 in the photos section under the K8GD folder. It is complete and
> > works exceptionally well.
> >
> > I'm getting over 10 watts out at the maximum setting, and as I have
> > said before, the Rx works extremely well. You guys will be impressed
> > when you build this thing. It is a real treat.
> >
> > Please take a look and let me know what you think. The case I used is
> > the cover off of an old computer power supply. It ended up working
> > out surprisingly well.
> >
> > Best 72.
> >
> > Jeff - K8GD
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Dan.
You can view them by going to the Photos section of the yahoo 2N2 site,
then selecting the K8GD folder. The latest pictures are at the bottom
of the page. Please let me know what you think.
Jim did another great job designing a radio, and it is really fantastic
of him to share it with us so that we can enjoy building and operating it.
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
Dan Clark wrote:
>
> How do I go about to see your pictures? Can you send them as a file
> attachment?
> I have DSL, just send them to this site: car.dan2@verizon.net Thanks,
> like to see them. Dan, N6FPE
> "dek8gd <jhecht@dnaco.net>" <jhecht@dnaco.net> wrote:There is a very
> slight birdie (up near 10.140 or so and not very
> noticeable), but doesn't cause any problems since there isn't a whole
> lot of CW activity up there. Otherwise it is as quiet as a mouse.
>
> The enclosure labeling I did using MS Powerpoint. I printed the slide
> on a piece of overhead transparency material, and it is held in place
> by the controls, etc. Any place that it is a little loose (like the
> lower left of the back panel), I used a small piece of clear tape to
> hold it down. This method works really well for my needs.
>
> I still need to manufacture a top for the little guy. I have a lot of
> sheet metal from the tops of old junked VCR's, so I'm thinking I will
> make one out of that and fasten it on with small tapped L brackets.
> I'll report back when I figure out what works.
>
> Keep the board posted on the progress of the other 2N2/30's.
>
> Best 72,
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> > Jeff -
> > Very nice job! Now how about telling us about the mounting enclosure
> > details. Any birdie problems? How did you to the enclosure labeling?
> >
> > I really like the way you were able to tuck the sections into that
> cabinet.
> > That should have improved VFO shielding immensely. I had to go back and
> > make a pc board shield around the VFO in order to keep the birds at
> bay on
> > my 2N2-40.
> > 73 de Lee
> > km4yy
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From:
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 10:40 PM
> > Subject: [2n2-40] New 2N2/30 Pics
> >
> >
> > > Hi gang.
> > >
> > > I just wanted to let you guys know that I posted 4 new pics of 2N2/30
> > > #002 in the photos section under the K8GD folder. It is complete and
> > > works exceptionally well.
> > >
> > > I'm getting over 10 watts out at the maximum setting, and as I have
> > > said before, the Rx works extremely well. You guys will be impressed
> > > when you build this thing. It is a real treat.
> > >
> > > Please take a look and let me know what you think. The case I used is
> > > the cover off of an old computer power supply. It ended up working
> > > out surprisingly well.
> > >
> > > Best 72.
> > >
> > > Jeff - K8GD
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The last big group build of 2N2-40s featured some neat, red heat sinks for
the 2N2222 transistors. I'd like to get a few more of these things.
Does anybody know from whence came the red heat sinks? Have a
Mouser/Jameco/DigiKey part number so that I can get some more?
73 de Lee
km4yy
|
2543|2542|2002-12-15 19:19:23|Delbert Long|Re: 2N2222 Heat Sinks|I was the source (middleman) for the red heat sinks. Can't remember right
now what the name of the place I got them from was. (John, they were
shipped to you...did you by any chance keep the company name?) I found them
in a search for surplus heat sinks on the internet. If the site was stored
on my browser, it would have been at my former place of employment, so I'll
just have to go looking again.
I'll see what I can come up with...they are definitely nice heat sinks!
73, 72, and Happy Holidays!
Del, AD6WE
"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts
can be counted."
- Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
_________________________________________________________________
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmailNo, I don't remember Del - Lee had asked me and I forgot where they came
from. They are nice, wouldn't mind having a few more myself.
73,
John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
> I was the source (middleman) for the red heat sinks. Can't remember right
> now what the name of the place I got them from was. (John, they were
> shipped to you...did you by any chance keep the company name?) I found them
> in a search for surplus heat sinks on the internet. If the site was stored
> on my browser, it would have been at my former place of employment, so I'll
> just have to go looking again.
>
> I'll see what I can come up with...they are definitely nice heat sinks!
>
> 73, 72, and Happy Holidays!
>
> Del, AD6WE
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comNever mind, I found them, sorry ,I'm new to this group stuff and get
lost in all the advertizing on yahoo. Think I'm figuring it out.Dan
N6FPE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Dan Clark wrote:
>
> How do I go about to see your pictures? Can you send them as a file
attachment?
> I have DSL, just send them to this site: car.dan2@v... Thanks,
like to see them. Dan, N6FPE
> "dek8gd " wrote:There is a very slight
birdie (up near 10.140 or so and not very
> noticeable), but doesn't cause any problems since there isn't a
whole
> lot of CW activity up there. Otherwise it is as quiet as a mouse.
>
> The enclosure labeling I did using MS Powerpoint. I printed the
slide
> on a piece of overhead transparency material, and it is held in
place
> by the controls, etc. Any place that it is a little loose (like the
> lower left of the back panel), I used a small piece of clear tape to
> hold it down. This method works really well for my needs.
>
> I still need to manufacture a top for the little guy. I have a lot
of
> sheet metal from the tops of old junked VCR's, so I'm thinking I
will
> make one out of that and fasten it on with small tapped L brackets.
> I'll report back when I figure out what works.
>
> Keep the board posted on the progress of the other 2N2/30's.
>
> Best 72,
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Lee Mairs" wrote:
> > Jeff -
> > Very nice job! Now how about telling us about the mounting
enclosure
> > details. Any birdie problems? How did you to the enclosure
labeling?
> >
> > I really like the way you were able to tuck the sections into that
> cabinet.
> > That should have improved VFO shielding immensely. I had to go
back and
> > make a pc board shield around the VFO in order to keep the birds
at
> bay on
> > my 2N2-40.
> > 73 de Lee
> > km4yy
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From:
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 10:40 PM
> > Subject: [2n2-40] New 2N2/30 Pics
> >
> >
> > > Hi gang.
> > >
> > > I just wanted to let you guys know that I posted 4 new pics of
2N2/30
> > > #002 in the photos section under the K8GD folder. It is
complete and
> > > works exceptionally well.
> > >
> > > I'm getting over 10 watts out at the maximum setting, and as I
have
> > > said before, the Rx works extremely well. You guys will be
impressed
> > > when you build this thing. It is a real treat.
> > >
> > > Please take a look and let me know what you think. The case I
used is
> > > the cover off of an old computer power supply. It ended up
working
> > > out surprisingly well.
> > >
> > > Best 72.
> > >
> > > Jeff - K8GD
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi all,
I've just received my parts order and am excited to start "snorting
rosin". I was really impressed by the pics of 2n2-30 #002. K8GD has
set the bar very high. I hope I can do somewhere near as well.
Here's the skinny on my group buy. The good news - I have
1000 PN2222's ready to go.
The bad news - I screwed up my order (got 1.2 K instead of 1.3 K) and
my supplier can't provide 16 ohms. The 16 ohms are in the L.O. pad
of the RX mixer (R4 & 5) and are fairly critical values. The 1.3 K
(R22) is in parallel with L5 to form the collector load of Q5 (the
post mixer amp.)
Here's what I can offer. I will provide two 8.2 ohm
resistors for each 16 ohm required; and for R22 I will substitute a
1.2 K and a 100 ohm. I realize that these substitutions will cause
some layout problems, so as an incentive, I'll throw in 25 resistors
to build up your junk box. All are 1/4 W. common standard values,
with cut and bent leads. You will get 5 each of 1 K, 4.7 K, 10 K, 47
K and 100 K. I will absorb any increase in postage due to the bonus
pack.
I accept cash, money orders and personal checks in U.S. funds; prices
as follows:
20 PN 2222 transistors alone $1.50 postage paid in the
U.S.
83 resistors alone $1.75 postage paid in the
U.S. (includes 25 bonus Res)
or
Combo pack of transistors and resistors + bonus resistors
$3.35 Post paid in the U.S.
Send your order and remittance to: Jim Harris KI8H
2134 Jewett Dr.
Columbus, Oh. 43229-2076
Please include an address label if you have one.
For our Canadian neighbors, if there is interest I will get the
postage fee and post it here.
|
2547|2547|2002-12-20 08:23:59|dek8gd |First 2N2/30 to 2N2/30 QSO|Hey gang.
Just wanted to drop you guys a note and let you know that the first
2N2/30 to 2N2/30 QSO is officially in the log books!
This was an unplanned event. I was calling CQ somewhere around 10.105
yesterday afternoon, and to my surprise, I heard "K8GD de K8IQY". Jim
and I shared armchair copy between MI and OH for around 30 minutes.
What a thrill it was for me!
Now, get back to building those 2N2/30's! This is by far my favorite rig!
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
|
2548|2548|2002-12-20 15:03:53|Delbert Long|Straight Key Night||
2549|2549|2002-12-21 22:30:12|Jim Larsen - AL7FS|Will there ever be a 20 meter 2n2?|I have no technical understanding of design and just wondered if a 2n2-20 is
possible? 40 and 30 meters are not much use to me up here in Alaska. It
seems that if the RockMite can be made to operate on 20 meters, so can the
2N2. It might be nice to beef up the final amplifier.
Anyway...I think I will hold off until someone proves in a 20 meter version.
I have basically all the parts I need to do it but I do wish to have a rig I
can use. 20 meters will do that nicely.
Just thinking out loud.
73, Jim
--
Jim Larsen, AL7FS
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.qsl.net/al7fs/There is actually 2n2's on 17 meters via the NJQRP Club's 40-17 transverter
kit. I have one in the queue, but I haven't started on it yet. I saw an
immaculate rendition of one at Atlanticon last spring.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Larsen - AL7FS" <jimlarsen2002@alaska.net>
To: "2n2-40 List" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2002 10:30 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Will there ever be a 20 meter 2n2?
> I have no technical understanding of design and just wondered if a 2n2-20
is
> possible? 40 and 30 meters are not much use to me up here in Alaska. It
> seems that if the RockMite can be made to operate on 20 meters, so can the
> 2N2. It might be nice to beef up the final amplifier.
>
> Anyway...I think I will hold off until someone proves in a 20 meter
version.
> I have basically all the parts I need to do it but I do wish to have a rig
I
> can use. 20 meters will do that nicely.
>
> Just thinking out loud.
>
> 73, Jim
> --
> Jim Larsen, AL7FS
> Anchorage, Alaska
> http://www.qsl.net/al7fs/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hi Jeff,
Seasons Greetings!
I just finished taking a look at your 2n2_30 rig. It looks real good.
You've done a fine job.
I need to get started on a lot of projects, but can't find enough
time here lately.
Take care.
73, Larry
|
2552|2552|2002-12-29 18:14:42|pswarman |An inductor is an inductor (or is it?).|Fellas, a simple question, if I don't have a particular moulded
inductor for the 2n2-40 rig can I simply calculate the turns for a
torroid and wind it? Is there any other reason for using moulded
inductors other than simplicity?
Thanks in advance, Paul, G0odp, Poole England
|
2553|2552|2002-12-29 19:18:19|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: An inductor is an inductor (or is it?).|At 11:14 PM 12/29/02 +0000, Paul, G0odp wrote:
>Fellas, a simple question, if I don't have a particular moulded
>inductor for the 2n2-40 rig can I simply calculate the turns for a
>torroid and wind it?
Yes, that will work just fine Paul.
> Is there any other reason for using moulded
>inductors other than simplicity?
They were only used for simplicity of building, and minimizing the number of
toroids that needed to be wound.
>Thanks in advance, Paul, G0odp, Poole England
72 and thanks for the good question Paul. GL with your rig.
Jim, K8IQY
Yes, I believe they are coded the same way resistors are. I have
liberated many values from 0.47uH all the way up to mH values from
various VCR's, old camcorders, TV's, etc.... While we are on the
subject of parting out VCR's, the best ones are the really old heavy
ones from the mid 1980's. They are loaded with NPO caps, tuning caps,
and tons of molded inductors. In fact, I think that every cap in my
2N2/30 (with the exception of the electrolytic ones) are NPO's that were
removed from VCR's. I have a good friend that owns a VCR repair shop,
and he will give me all that I want (for free!). I'm certain that if
you stopped by your friendly neighborhood VCR repair shop, you too could
have all you wanted. They are happy to get rid of them and get some
shelf space back.
Best 72.
Jeff - K8GD
Delbert Long wrote:
> If the molded inductor in question happens to be 100 uH, mine all came
> out
> of a dead VCR ... they look like little blue peas marked "101." I
> relieved
> the circuit boards of quite a few others which are color coded...I
> believe
> that it's the same color code as resistors, but I'm not entirely
> confident.
> Haven't gotten around to putting together the circuit to measure
> them......
>
> 73, 72
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
>
>
> "Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that
> counts
> can be counted."
> - Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 3 months FREE*.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I knew this article was in my 2001 ARRL Handbook, but I found it online as
well...maybe some of us could use it:
http://earthground.8m.com/indcap.htm I'm looking for 2N2/40's on SKN...where is everybody? I'll be up all
night...Happy New Year!!!!!
Del, AD6WE
"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts
can be counted."
- Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
_________________________________________________________________
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmailI looked through my old emails and found the following in a message I got from John Wagner - I believe this is the original source that the group buy used. I missed this buy and purchased some directly. They were not the red color that the group got, rather a very nice gold. Hope this answers your question Lee....
73 and a great weekend to all, Dov ad0v
Original message from John follows:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
They are the kind with the fins all around;
Exectronix Express
http://www.elexp.com They are in NJ.
73 de John, N1QO
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.com ****************************************************************
Please Note
The information in this E-mail message is legally privileged
and confidential information intended only for the use of the
individual(s) named above. If you, the reader of this message,
are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that
you should not further disseminate, distribute, or forward this
E-mail message. If you have received this E-mail in error,
please notify the sender. Thank you
*****************************************************************
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi all,
I'm finally winding toroids and getting ready to snort rosin! BUT, I
still have a few nagging questions:
1--I remember seeing a general layout (blocks only) for the 2n2222-
40. I would like to use it as a starting point for my -30 layout -
but I can't find it in the files, photos, or archives. Can anyone
point me in the right direction?
2--Is there a write up somewhere on selecting crystals for the
filter? I was hoping it was in the QRP-P article, so I ordered from
Paul H in November '02 - still haven't received it so I'm flying
pretty much blind. I have a general idea and an RF generator and
counter, but would be more comfortable with some hand-holding.
3--This may seem stupid, but it keeps bothering me; so I'll ask.
Everything I ever read before on bifilar or trifilar winding showed
the wires twisted together first. Jim's example photos don't show
that - I think the reason is to minimize the inter-winding
capacitance, but I am not sure. Guess I could just follow the photos
and quit thinking about it.
|
2559|2558|2003-01-23 14:03:58|Lee Mairs|Re: Getting started|The most important thing in winding those darned toroids is to use different
colored wires. Paul's book describes the layout for the original 2N2-40.
It is a great help to get the overall concept of what your are about to do;
however, be sure to build from the schematics that Jim Kortge has posted on
the Yahoo website. He has made many enhancements. I found that Paul's book
was OK for deciding where the blocks should go, the many photos on the
website are a better indication of exact parts layout.
If you need metal 2N2222s for the driver and final stages, I just purchased
50 of the neat red heatsinks especially sized for the 2N2222, and I also
have 50 more metal transistors coming in. Dan's Small Parts is a source for
the multicolored wire, but craft stores like Michaels have recently been
reported to have wire with different colored enamel coverings. I think it
is used for making jewelry, but I'm not sure. Frankly, I've about decided
that the clean, easily identifiable parts from Mouser, Jameco and DigiKey
are worth the extra few bucks. I bought most of my stuff from other
suppliers for my 2N2-40, but I ended up having to get a $100 LCR meter to
sort out what was what on some of those especially good deal bonus
collections!
I'm about ready to start on a 2N2-30 as soon as I finish my QuickieLab
project and get a SWL 20 meter SSB transceiver working that I recently
obtained.
There are lots of willing and encouraging helpers ready to hold your hand
thru this process. When it is finally working and you get that first QSO
you will be one happy ham. I was!
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: <ki8h@amsat.org>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 1:02 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Getting started
> Hi all,
> I'm finally winding toroids and getting ready to snort rosin! BUT, I
> still have a few nagging questions:
>
> 1--I remember seeing a general layout (blocks only) for the 2n2222-
> 40. I would like to use it as a starting point for my -30 layout -
> but I can't find it in the files, photos, or archives. Can anyone
> point me in the right direction?
>
> 2--Is there a write up somewhere on selecting crystals for the
> filter? I was hoping it was in the QRP-P article, so I ordered from
> Paul H in November '02 - still haven't received it so I'm flying
> pretty much blind. I have a general idea and an RF generator and
> counter, but would be more comfortable with some hand-holding.
>
> 3--This may seem stupid, but it keeps bothering me; so I'll ask.
> Everything I ever read before on bifilar or trifilar winding showed
> the wires twisted together first. Jim's example photos don't show
> that - I think the reason is to minimize the inter-winding
> capacitance, but I am not sure. Guess I could just follow the photos
> and quit thinking about it.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hobby Lobby also has several colors of enamel covered wire. Look for beads
and you will find it. I have a roll I bought there and it is called "Bead
Wire" by Crafts Etc. It is 24ga, 24 yards long, and cost $1.99. Good luck.
73
Jerry, W0PWE
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee Mairs [mailto:
lmairs@sagcorp.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 13:04 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Getting started
The most important thing in winding those darned toroids is to use different
colored wires. Paul's book describes the layout for the original 2N2-40.
It is a great help to get the overall concept of what your are about to do;
however, be sure to build from the schematics that Jim Kortge has posted on
the Yahoo website. He has made many enhancements. I found that Paul's book
was OK for deciding where the blocks should go, the many photos on the
website are a better indication of exact parts layout.
If you need metal 2N2222s for the driver and final stages, I just purchased
50 of the neat red heatsinks especially sized for the 2N2222, and I also
have 50 more metal transistors coming in. Dan's Small Parts is a source for
the multicolored wire, but craft stores like Michaels have recently been
reported to have wire with different colored enamel coverings. I think it
is used for making jewelry, but I'm not sure. Frankly, I've about decided
that the clean, easily identifiable parts from Mouser, Jameco and DigiKey
are worth the extra few bucks. I bought most of my stuff from other
suppliers for my 2N2-40, but I ended up having to get a $100 LCR meter to
sort out what was what on some of those especially good deal bonus
collections!
I'm about ready to start on a 2N2-30 as soon as I finish my QuickieLab
project and get a SWL 20 meter SSB transceiver working that I recently
obtained.
There are lots of willing and encouraging helpers ready to hold your hand
thru this process. When it is finally working and you get that first QSO
you will be one happy ham. I was!
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: <ki8h@amsat.org>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 1:02 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Getting started
> Hi all,
> I'm finally winding toroids and getting ready to snort rosin! BUT, I
> still have a few nagging questions:
>
> 1--I remember seeing a general layout (blocks only) for the 2n2222-
> 40. I would like to use it as a starting point for my -30 layout -
> but I can't find it in the files, photos, or archives. Can anyone
> point me in the right direction?
>
> 2--Is there a write up somewhere on selecting crystals for the
> filter? I was hoping it was in the QRP-P article, so I ordered from
> Paul H in November '02 - still haven't received it so I'm flying
> pretty much blind. I have a general idea and an RF generator and
> counter, but would be more comfortable with some hand-holding.
>
> 3--This may seem stupid, but it keeps bothering me; so I'll ask.
> Everything I ever read before on bifilar or trifilar winding showed
> the wires twisted together first. Jim's example photos don't show
> that - I think the reason is to minimize the inter-winding
> capacitance, but I am not sure. Guess I could just follow the photos
> and quit thinking about it.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
At 02:01 PM 1/23/2003 -0600, Aartec wrote:
>Hobby Lobby also has several colors of enamel covered wire. Look for beads
>and you will find it. I have a roll I bought there and it is called "Bead
>Wire" by Crafts Etc. It is 24ga, 24 yards long, and cost $1.99. Good luck.
>73
>Jerry, W0PWE
>
>
Good news: Bad news.
Yes. The wire does exist.
No. It is not copper wire but some steel alloy best I can tell. It will not
give you a Hi-Q for toroid windings. Others may jump in on this if you find
enameled wire that is copper. The reason for not having copper wire for
jewelry is that it will not break easily as it has a much higher Young's
Modulus
for tensile strength than copper does.
FYI.
Chuck Adams, K7QO
http://www.qsl.net/k7qo and
http://www.earthlink.net/~k7qo Moving to Arizona? ---- Please bring your own water.
Then Dan's Small Parts is the only place I know where you can get colored
enamel copper wire. He calls it his
DOUBLE BALANCED MIXER WIRE KIT
30 FEET OF #28 Magnet wire. This kit contains three
different 10 foot pieces of wire, each a different color.
$1.35
His web site is:
http://www.fix.net/~jparker/dans.html My only complaint is that he won't take Paypal/credit cards etc. You have
to send him a check via snail mail; however, he gets the stuff back to you
really fast.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Adams, K7QO" <k7qo@earthlink.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>; <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 5:47 PM
Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Getting started
> At 02:01 PM 1/23/2003 -0600, Aartec wrote:
> >Hobby Lobby also has several colors of enamel covered wire. Look for
beads
> >and you will find it. I have a roll I bought there and it is called "Bead
> >Wire" by Crafts Etc. It is 24ga, 24 yards long, and cost $1.99. Good
luck.
> >73
> >Jerry, W0PWE
> >
> >
>
> Good news: Bad news.
>
> Yes. The wire does exist.
>
> No. It is not copper wire but some steel alloy best I can tell. It will
not
> give you a Hi-Q for toroid windings. Others may jump in on this if you
find
> enameled wire that is copper. The reason for not having copper wire for
> jewelry is that it will not break easily as it has a much higher Young's
> Modulus
> for tensile strength than copper does.
>
> FYI.
>
>
>
>
> Chuck Adams, K7QO
> http://www.qsl.net/k7qo and http://www.earthlink.net/~k7qo
>
> Moving to Arizona? ---- Please bring your own water.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I scraped the enamel off and it looks like copper. It takes solder like
copper and the resistance of it measures about the same as copper. The label
on the roll itself says it is 26ga and not 24ga as stated on the packaging.
Checking the diameter with my vernier caliper yields 0.016" diameter so I
believe the label on the roll is correct. Checking the resistance with my
Fluke 8050A indicates a total resistance of 3.05 ohms for the length of the
roll. So, 1000 * 3.05 / (24 * 3) = 42.36 ohms per 1000ft. That seems pretty
close to the value given in the handbook, 41.02 ohms per 1000ft.
I tried stretching it and it stretches like the #26 copper magnet wire I
have, but I wasn't able to measure how much force it took to stretch it a
given %. I checked the Crafts Etc. web page and didn't find the exact number
of the product I have so maybe they no longer sell it. Tomorrow I will call
their 800 number and see if I can get an answer.
73
Jerry, W0PWE
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Adams, K7QO [mailto:
k7qo@earthlink.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 16:48 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com;
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Getting started
At 02:01 PM 1/23/2003 -0600, Aartec wrote:
>Hobby Lobby also has several colors of enamel covered wire. Look for beads
>and you will find it. I have a roll I bought there and it is called "Bead
>Wire" by Crafts Etc. It is 24ga, 24 yards long, and cost $1.99. Good luck.
>73
>Jerry, W0PWE
>
>
Good news: Bad news.
Yes. The wire does exist.
No. It is not copper wire but some steel alloy best I can tell. It will
not
give you a Hi-Q for toroid windings. Others may jump in on this if you find
enameled wire that is copper. The reason for not having copper wire for
jewelry is that it will not break easily as it has a much higher Young's
Modulus
for tensile strength than copper does.
FYI.
Chuck Adams, K7QO
http://www.qsl.net/k7qo and
http://www.earthlink.net/~k7qo Moving to Arizona? ---- Please bring your own water.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/I accidently plugged in my power with the polarity reversed...you
probably know the rest of the story already...
I found the wire on L8 fried, and D24 was gone.
Are the finals probably gone as well? Haven't checked yet.
The receiver doesn't...looking at the schematic to see what jumps out
as probably gone without going down the line and probing (my test
equipment supply is really limited).
Looks like Q3 might not have made it. Also, maybe the primary of T5?
73, and Good Luck in ARRL CW DX Contest next weekend...hope I'm ready
in time!
Del, AD6WE
|
2565|2564|2003-02-06 17:00:40|Lee Mairs|Re: OOPS! Oh, NO!!!|The last thing you want to hear now is about those resettable fuses that
cost about 75 cents from Mouser. Jim Kortge told me about them at
Atlanticon. I bought a few but haven't installed them on anything yet.
Put diode to ground on the radio side of one of these guys right at the
power gazinta and you should be safe forever.
As we said in SEA 35 years ago, "Sorry 'bout that."
73 de Lee
km4yy
----- Original Message -----
From: <AD6WE@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 4:17 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] OOPS! Oh, NO!!!
> I accidently plugged in my power with the polarity reversed...you
> probably know the rest of the story already...
>
> I found the wire on L8 fried, and D24 was gone.
>
> Are the finals probably gone as well? Haven't checked yet.
>
> The receiver doesn't...looking at the schematic to see what jumps out
> as probably gone without going down the line and probing (my test
> equipment supply is really limited).
>
> Looks like Q3 might not have made it. Also, maybe the primary of T5?
>
> 73, and Good Luck in ARRL CW DX Contest next weekend...hope I'm ready
> in time!
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
On another note, I'm thinking about changing the final amp...
The 5-watt mod for the SMK-1 uses a IRF-510 Power Mosfet. I have
quite a few IRF-840's...would they work? Seems like that mod would
go into the 2N2/40 without too much trouble.
Also, how about the PA from the 2N2/30? Should I go out and get a
2SC2166?
Thanks again...
Del, AD6WE
|
2567|2566|2003-02-06 22:05:22|John Wagner|Re: More Power|Del,
I have a 2sc2078 in my 2n2/40+ SMT, it works great. There should be some
posts a ways back where I mention what the LPF looks like with that final.
73,
John, N1QO
Delbert Long wrote:
> On another note, I'm thinking about changing the final amp...
>
> The 5-watt mod for the SMK-1 uses a IRF-510 Power Mosfet. I have
> quite a few IRF-840's...would they work? Seems like that mod would
> go into the 2N2/40 without too much trouble.
>
> Also, how about the PA from the 2N2/30? Should I go out and get a
> 2SC2166?
>
> Thanks again...
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net Web page:
http://www.neknetwork.comThe rig is working again...yeah!
I still need to get a replacement for that Zener Diode (D24). That's
just there for SWR protection right?
Couldn't find any other parts that needed to be replaced - some
resistances seemed off what they should be, so I lifted D5 and
D6...cleaned up the solder joint on that pad, and everything came to
life.
Got my portable dipole up in a vertical position...I heard stations
everywhere but couldn't make any contacts. SWR was awful, and I
didn't have the inclination to try tweaking it.
Heard WA2VQW calling "CQ DX..." apparently he didn't hear ZL1BDG
answering. Too bad.
Time to go to bed. Heard a station in OK wanting to QRT and get some
sleep - people kept calling him - must be nice.
73, 72, Tnx fer listening
Del, AD6WE
|
2569|2569|2003-02-07 13:21:14|Mark Schoonover|Ten Tec Enclosure Clearance!!|Ten Tec is clearing out their cases... Picked up one for the 2n2-40 for
$7.50!! Now's the time to stock up for the next series of 2n2-* projects...
http://www.tentec.com/enc_closeout.htm 72 .mark
Give a man a match, and he'll be warm for a minute, but set him on fire, and
he'll be warm for the rest of his life.
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Mark Schoonover
wrote:
> Ten Tec is clearing out their cases... Picked up one for the 2n2-40
for
> $7.50!! .............snip
Wow !! TNX Mark. I think I saw this before but it didn't register
with me. Since all my QRO equipment is Ten Tec - I ordered several
cases to match.
JimNo problem. I'd keep an eye on the site. I wasn't interested in the sloped
cases, but hopefully they will have some smaller ones available IE, 2x3x6 or
so... I like the way they look... Hope this doesn't mean anything about the
company - that it's not in trouble or something...
72
.mark
-----Original Message-----
From: ki8h <
ki8h@amsat.org> [mailto:
ki8h@amsat.org]
Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2003 8:51 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Ten Tec Enclosure Clearance!!
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Mark Schoonover wrote:
> Ten Tec is clearing out their cases... Picked up one for the 2n2-40
for
> $7.50!! .............snip
Wow !! TNX Mark. I think I saw this before but it didn't register
with me. Since all my QRO equipment is Ten Tec - I ordered several
cases to match.
Jim
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Finally got some digital photos of my finished 2N2/40.
They are in the AD6WE folder.
I have mixed feelings about leaving it in the Altoids tin...I need to
add the RIT, and am thinking that it might be a little easier to
operate if I put it in a slightly larger enclosure. But it is fun
the way it is, and gets a lot of good comments.
73, 72, es GD DX this weekend!
Del, AD6WE
|
2573|2572|2003-02-11 20:01:13|dek8gd |Re: Photos Uploaded|Del,
Sweet! A 2N2/40 in an altoids tin. I think it's great and wouldn't
change a thing. It looks very impressive. Kudos!
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Delbert Long
"
wrote:
>
>
> Finally got some digital photos of my finished 2N2/40.
>
> They are in the AD6WE folder.
>
> I have mixed feelings about leaving it in the Altoids tin...I need to
> add the RIT, and am thinking that it might be a little easier to
> operate if I put it in a slightly larger enclosure. But it is fun
> the way it is, and gets a lot of good comments.
>
> 73, 72, es GD DX this weekend!
>
> Del, AD6WE
Good Evening!!
Yes, it has finally started!! I've been wanting to build this rig
since 11/01, that's when I started collecting parts. I finished getting
everything organized in the shack this last weekend. Guess I've been HF
mobile too long - it's kinda weird not having to navigate any traffic while
using a radio! Anyway, this is my first manhatten project. I've uploaded the
first pic a few minutes ago. It's somewhat fuzzy, but you can tell what it
is. It's in the photo section, look for the KA6WKE folder... Now it's on to
the VFO this week!
72 .mark
http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke Give a man a match, and he'll be warm for a minute, but set him on fire, and
he'll be warm for the rest of his life.
Go for it Mark.
I have a parts order in for starter supplies at Dan"s, sure can't beat his
prices. I have a few parts left to finish on my moded out RM40 this week by
then my supplies ought to be in.
73 de KM5CW Joe
FISTS #4217 QRPARCI #11368 NETXQRP#42
GRID-EM13kf - DFW-TX
(
http://web.wt.net/~km5cw )
_ _._ ._.. .._.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schoonover" <schoon@amgt.com>
To: "2n2-40 (E-mail)" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 9:02 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Building Has Commenced!!
> Good Evening!!
>
> Yes, it has finally started!! I've been wanting to build this rig
> since 11/01, that's when I started collecting parts. I finished getting
> everything organized in the shack this last weekend. Guess I've been HF
> mobile too long - it's kinda weird not having to navigate any traffic
while
> using a radio! Anyway, this is my first manhatten project. I've uploaded
the
> first pic a few minutes ago. It's somewhat fuzzy, but you can tell what it
> is. It's in the photo section, look for the KA6WKE folder... Now it's on
to
> the VFO this week!
>
> 72 .mark
>
> http://www.qsl.net/ka6wke
>
>
> Give a man a match, and he'll be warm for a minute, but set him on fire,
and
> he'll be warm for the rest of his life.
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
2N2/40 Builders Group,
Earned the QRP-ARCI 1000 mi/watt award, #1943, CW #1493, 7 mHz #306, on
December 28, 2002 with a QSO from Bear Valley California to K4BAI in
Columbus, Georgia. I was using 2N2/40 #16 running about 1.96 watts out
to a home brew z-matching network feeding a W3EDP EFZ about 25 feet
above ground (if I'm lucky). Elevation is 7600 feet asl on the eastern
slope of a ridge. Antenna runs perpendicular to the ridge. Now if I can
only move that spruce.
73,
Arth W6AGS
|
2577|2576|2003-02-25 13:18:18|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 1000 mi/watt|At 10:31 PM 2/24/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>2N2/40 Builders Group,
>
>Earned the QRP-ARCI 1000 mi/watt award, #1943, CW #1493, 7 mHz #306, on
>December 28, 2002 with a QSO from Bear Valley California to K4BAI in
>Columbus, Georgia. I was using 2N2/40 #16 running about 1.96 watts out
>to a home brew z-matching network feeding a W3EDP EFZ about 25 feet
>above ground (if I'm lucky). Elevation is 7600 feet asl on the eastern
>slope of a ridge. Antenna runs perpendicular to the ridge. Now if I can
>only move that spruce.
>
>73,
>Arth W6AGS
Arth,
Congrats and many thanks for the info. Guess #16 is still working
fine! Ready to build a 2N2/30?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks, Jim. You bet. Audio is up and sidetone down. Love this little
radio. Glad to see that this group is still going strong. Other
priorities right now. Like finishing that 8" telescope mirror I
started last summer. Also, too cold in the garage to start any bench
work.
Think you may go to Pacificon this year?
72,
Arth, W6AGS
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 10:31 PM 2/24/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>
> >2N2/40 Builders Group,
> >
> >Earned the QRP-ARCI 1000 mi/watt award, #1943, CW #1493, 7 mHz
#306, on
> >December 28, 2002 with a QSO from Bear Valley California to K4BAI
in
> >Columbus, Georgia. I was using 2N2/40 #16 running about 1.96 watts
out
> >to a home brew z-matching network feeding a W3EDP EFZ about 25 feet
> >above ground (if I'm lucky). Elevation is 7600 feet asl on the
eastern
> >slope of a ridge. Antenna runs perpendicular to the ridge. Now if
I can
> >only move that spruce.
> >
> >73,
> >Arth W6AGS
>
> Arth,
>
> Congrats and many thanks for the info. Guess #16 is still working
> fine! Ready to build a 2N2/30?
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Arth Silvers
wrote:
> 2N2/40 Builders Group,
>
> Earned the QRP-ARCI 1000 mi/watt award, #1943, CW #1493, 7 mHz
#306, on
I decided to check one of my contacts from last Spartan
Sprint...using my Grid Square, it was 1003 Miles per Watt! I was not
at home, so I'll have to figure what grid square I was actually in.
It wasn't very far from here, so I just might make it.
Now, I need to get my 2N2/40+ registered so I have a number!
Anybody else out there participate in Spartan Sprints? It's a lot of
fun, first Monday evening of every month. Might be a good way to try
and work other 2N2/40's.
Del, AD6WEFigured my distance per watt on 2 watts and grid squares. It was very
close. Exactly 1000 mi/watt in fact. I'm more accurately running 1.96
watts out, so there is a margin of confidence
Sprints and other contests are great fun and an excellent way to log
a bunch of Qs in short order. 2N2/40-WAS ho! Although it may take
some time.
72,
Arth W6AGS
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Delbert Long
"
wrote:
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Arth Silvers wrote:
> > 2N2/40 Builders Group,
> >
> > Earned the QRP-ARCI 1000 mi/watt award, #1943, CW #1493, 7 mHz
> #306, on
>
>
> I decided to check one of my contacts from last Spartan
> Sprint...using my Grid Square, it was 1003 Miles per Watt! I was
not
> at home, so I'll have to figure what grid square I was actually
in.
> It wasn't very far from here, so I just might make it.
>
> Now, I need to get my 2N2/40+ registered so I have a number!
>
> Anybody else out there participate in Spartan Sprints? It's a lot
of
> fun, first Monday evening of every month. Might be a good way to
try
> and work other 2N2/40's.
>
> Del, AD6WE
I have the following for sale:
20 packs of 20pcs Metal (TO18) 2N2222
$5.50 per pack, limit 2 packs per buyer.
Includes shipping to USA. Email me for foreign orders.
These went fast the last time.
Cash, check or paypal to
brian@iquest.net 73
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
HEATH HW-9 @ 2W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
Brian,
FB on the PayPal I have an account there also asume that was with shipping
if not let me know, also I can always use a good reccomendation added to my
list for "joe7659" at
km5cw@arrl.net I'll add one to yours as well
I makes life so much easier don't you
think.
73 de KM5CW Joe
FISTS #4217 QRPARCI #11368 NETXQRP#42
GRID-EM13kf - DFW-TX
( http://web.wt.net/~km5cw )
_ _._ ._.. .._.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian" <brian@iquest.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>; "QRP-L" <qrp-l@Lehigh.EDU>; "Flying Pigs"
<fpqrp-l@fpqrp.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 3:00 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Metal 2N2222's
> I have the following for sale:
>
> 20 packs of 20pcs Metal (TO18) 2N2222
>
> $5.50 per pack, limit 2 packs per buyer.
>
> Includes shipping to USA. Email me for foreign orders.
>
> These went fast the last time.
>
> Cash, check or paypal to brian@iquest.net
>
> 73
>
> ========================================
> KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
> QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
> FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
> HEATH HW-9 @ 2W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
> INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
> SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
> ========================================
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Thank you, all 20 of the packs of metal 2N2222's I had, have been sold.
73
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
HEATH HW-9 @ 2W or NORCAL 40A @ 1.3W
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
|
2584|2584|2003-02-28 20:40:55|Delbert Long |999 miles per watt|I used the N9SSA MPW calculator...got the coordinates by putting the
address I operated from into the Terraserver:
http://terraserver.homeadvisor.msn.com/default.aspx Came out to 999 miles per watt!
Well, I could turn the output down to 1 1/2 watts, or I can just try
again.
Check out that Terraserver website. It's cool to be able to get a
satellite view of your location and even see which trees to put the
wires into so you can orient your antenna correctly.
I'll be looking for you on Monday Night.
Del, AD6WE
Hello...
I'm contemplating the construction of the 2n2-30, having recently
joined this group. The thought of "graduating" from a kit (I'm an
Elecraft owner/builder) to a full scratch-built high performance
radio is intriguing.
Is there a way to download all the messages, to be read off-line at
(hopefully) a faster rate??? I'm really looking for a way to catch
up on all the work that has gone on before me, so I don't re-ask the
same questions, etc. And, I just find Yahoo too slow to page thru
even at broadband speeds.
Thanks!
Steve
aa8af
|
2586|2585|2003-03-07 15:30:18|John Wagner|Re: [personal] [2n2-40] New Builder Catch Up??|Greetings Steve,
You can get 100 at a time, which should make downloading much faster.
Start with this URL;
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/messages/1?viscount=100&expand=1 Swipe the messages with your mouse and cut+paste to copy all of the
messages to a text file. Click on the "Next" link down at the bottom and
you'll get the next 100 messages and so on. It still takes a while, but
it's MUCH faster than one at a time! I've tried getting more than 100,
but Yahoo cuts you off if you go any higher.
73 es welcome aboard,
John, N1QO
Steve wrote:
> Hello...
> I'm contemplating the construction of the 2n2-30, having recently
> joined this group. The thought of "graduating" from a kit (I'm an
> Elecraft owner/builder) to a full scratch-built high performance
> radio is intriguing.
>
> Is there a way to download all the messages, to be read off-line at
> (hopefully) a faster rate??? I'm really looking for a way to catch
> up on all the work that has gone on before me, so I don't re-ask the
> same questions, etc. And, I just find Yahoo too slow to page thru
> even at broadband speeds.
>
> Thanks!
> Steve
> aa8af
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner -
john@wagner-usa.net http://www.wagner-usa.net/Haven't heard any posts in a long time...is anyone still building?
How about the 2N2/15...is that design finished including the TX yet?
Haven't had mine on the air in a while...looking forward to the
Flight of the Bumblebees and the next Spartan Sprint...I think I'm
going back to the end fed wire for 40 meters and see if I have any
luck with that. All my operating is still mobile/portable...
73,
Del, AD6WE
|
2588|2587|2003-07-16 16:30:12|Brian Murrey - KB9BVN|Re: Where is everybody?|Del,
I think Jim may be off somewhere enjoying the summer and his bike, and
the other "guys" may be off the bench for the summer.
I know I personally get very little radio stuff accomplished in the
summertime.
(grin)
73 de KB9BVN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Delbert Long"
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 3:25 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Where is everybody?
> Haven't heard any posts in a long time...is anyone still building?
>
> How about the 2N2/15...is that design finished including the TX yet?
>
> Haven't had mine on the air in a while...looking forward to the
> Flight of the Bumblebees and the next Spartan Sprint...I think I'm
> going back to the end fed wire for 40 meters and see if I have any
> luck with that. All my operating is still mobile/portable...
>
> 73,
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
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>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
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>
>
>
---
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Hi Del -
I'm waffling back and forth between building a 2N2-30 or building a
Multi-Pig for next winter's project. I've started the parts collection for
the 2N2-30, but I still wrapped up in getting my VA house sold, my boat sold
and everything set up in WV.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Delbert Long" <AD6WE@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 4:25 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Where is everybody?
> Haven't heard any posts in a long time...is anyone still building?
>
> How about the 2N2/15...is that design finished including the TX yet?
>
> Haven't had mine on the air in a while...looking forward to the
> Flight of the Bumblebees and the next Spartan Sprint...I think I'm
> going back to the end fed wire for 40 meters and see if I have any
> luck with that. All my operating is still mobile/portable...
>
> 73,
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
From talking with Jim Kortege at Atlanticon (I pick him up at the BWI
airport), I know that he is up to his neck in Ospreys. He is running a
program to help re-establish Ospreys (aka Fish Hawks) up in his neck of the
woods.
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Murrey - KB9BVN"
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Where is everybody?
> Del,
>
> I think Jim may be off somewhere enjoying the summer and his bike, and
> the other "guys" may be off the bench for the summer.
>
> I know I personally get very little radio stuff accomplished in the
> summertime.
>
> (grin)
>
> 73 de KB9BVN
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Delbert Long"
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 3:25 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Where is everybody?
>
>
> > Haven't heard any posts in a long time...is anyone still building?
> >
> > How about the 2N2/15...is that design finished including the TX yet?
> >
> > Haven't had mine on the air in a while...looking forward to the
> > Flight of the Bumblebees and the next Spartan Sprint...I think I'm
> > going back to the end fed wire for 40 meters and see if I have any
> > luck with that. All my operating is still mobile/portable...
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > Del, AD6WE
> >
> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
> Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> > Free shipping on all inkjet cartridge & refill kit orders to US &
> Canada. Low prices up to 80% off. We have your brand: HP, Epson,
> Lexmark & more.
> > http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5510
> > http://us.click.yahoo.com/GHXcIA/n.WGAA/ySSFAA/ELTolB/TM
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------
> -~->
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ---
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>
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>
>
>
Are there any kits left available for the 2n2-40?
If so who might have it?
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2592|2587|2003-07-16 20:40:50|John Wagner|Re: Where is everybody?|Hey Del,
I've been fairly inactive ham wise and especially building wise for the
past year at least. I have managed to participate in FD though. On
occasion, I put my 2n2/40 and the 2n2/40 SMT on the air for a quick QSO,
but lately there just doesn't seem to be much time!
I've got most of the parts for a 2n2/30 and plan to build one at some
point, if I can squeek the time out.
73,
John, N1QO
-----Original Message-----
From: Delbert Long [mailto:
AD6WE@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 4:26 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Where is everybody?
Haven't heard any posts in a long time...is anyone still building?
How about the 2N2/15...is that design finished including the TX yet?
Haven't had mine on the air in a while...looking forward to the
Flight of the Bumblebees and the next Spartan Sprint...I think I'm
going back to the end fed wire for 40 meters and see if I have any
luck with that. All my operating is still mobile/portable...
73,
Del, AD6WE
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Hi Jeff -
There are no 2N2-40 kits produced. We all built them Manhattan style,
although there were a few group purchases made. Jim Kortege, the Father of
the 2N2-40, may have some of the crystals for the filter and the oscillators
left over.
73 de Lee, km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Noel" <k4zku@erols.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Where is everybody?
> Are there any kits left available for the 2n2-40?
> If so who might have it?
>
> Jeff
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hi John, I've been accumulating quite a lot of smt parts and as soon as I
find the courage I'd like to build something. Did you make a printed circuit
board for this rig and is it commercially available do you know.
Best regards
Paul
G0odp
-----Original Message-----
From: John Wagner [mailto:
john@wagner-usa.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 1:40 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Where is everybody?
Hey Del,
I've been fairly inactive ham wise and especially building wise for the
past year at least. I have managed to participate in FD though. On
occasion, I put my 2n2/40 and the 2n2/40 SMT on the air for a quick QSO,
but lately there just doesn't seem to be much time!
I've got most of the parts for a 2n2/30 and plan to build one at some
point, if I can squeek the time out.
73,
John, N1QO
-----Original Message-----
From: Delbert Long [mailto:
AD6WE@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 4:26 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Where is everybody?
Haven't heard any posts in a long time...is anyone still building?
How about the 2N2/15...is that design finished including the TX yet?
Haven't had mine on the air in a while...looking forward to the
Flight of the Bumblebees and the next Spartan Sprint...I think I'm
going back to the end fed wire for 40 meters and see if I have any
luck with that. All my operating is still mobile/portable...
73,
Del, AD6WE
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Hello All !
It's like the group has just awoken from a coma !
Since building the 2n2-40 / 4017 transverter combo I've added an Elecraft K1 and K2 to my shack. I'm sorry to say the K2 has replaced the 2n2-40 as my number 1 radio, although the 2n2-40 runs a close joint second with the K1.
Thought I would have a go at something totally different and have almost completed a station for the AO-40 satellite. Everything built from junk or discarded equipment.
Next project will be a SMT 2n2-??. Don't know whether to duplicate the 40m version or maybe go for 30.
It's very nearly 2 years since the group started, would be nice to get a few more discussions going when the 'building season' starts !
73
Steve, G4GXL
www.g4gxl.com
|
2596|2587|2003-07-17 06:55:47|Jeff Noel|Re: Where is everybody?|Hi Lee---- thanks for the info
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2597|2587|2003-07-17 07:57:35|Jeff Noel|Re: Where is everybody?|John,
Is it your 2n2-40 SMT that I have seen pictures elsewhere on this site?
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2598|2587|2003-07-17 08:44:52|Lee Mairs|Re: Where is everybody?|Steve -
I've heard (even from QRO contest big guns) that the K2 has a great
receiver. How about comparing the K2 receiver on 40 meters to the 2N2-40
receiver? I know that my 2N2-40 matches up well with an IC-781 receiver on
40 meters, and is actually quieter.
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: <g4gxl@btinternet.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 4:26 AM
Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Where is everybody?
> Hello All !
>
> It's like the group has just awoken from a coma !
>
> Since building the 2n2-40 / 4017 transverter combo I've added an Elecraft
K1 and K2 to my shack. I'm sorry to say the K2 has replaced the 2n2-40 as my
number 1 radio, although the 2n2-40 runs a close joint second with the K1.
>
> Thought I would have a go at something totally different and have almost
completed a station for the AO-40 satellite. Everything built from junk or
discarded equipment.
>
> Next project will be a SMT 2n2-??. Don't know whether to duplicate the 40m
version or maybe go for 30.
>
> It's very nearly 2 years since the group started, would be nice to get a
few more discussions going when the 'building season' starts !
>
> 73
> Steve, G4GXL
> www.g4gxl.com
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 08:25 PM 7/16/2003 +0000, Del, AD6WE wrote:
>Haven't heard any posts in a long time...is anyone still building?
Yes, but nothing at the moment. Too nice of weather to be trapped
inside.
>How about the 2N2/15...is that design finished including the TX yet?
Nope! One of the several items on the "to do" list.
>Haven't had mine on the air in a while...looking forward to the
>Flight of the Bumblebees and the next Spartan Sprint...I think I'm
>going back to the end fed wire for 40 meters and see if I have any
>luck with that. All my operating is still mobile/portable...
My last operating was at Dayton from the motel with the 2N2/30
and one of Vern Wright's MP-1 setups. Worked great!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:31 PM 7/16/2003 -0500, KB9BVN wrote:
>Del,
>
>I think Jim may be off somewhere enjoying the summer and his bike, and
>the other "guys" may be off the bench for the summer.
Darned close, along with the osprey activity. Details
of the osprey activity is at www.owsem.org
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS.....1500 miles of cycling so far this summer.
At 11:11 PM 7/16/2003 -0400, Lee, km4yy/8 wrote:
>Hi Jeff -
>There are no 2N2-40 kits produced. We all built them Manhattan style,
>although there were a few group purchases made. Jim Kortege (Kortge), the
>Father of
>the 2N2-40, may have some of the crystals for the filter and the oscillators
>left over.
I do have crystal stocks available and can provide filter sets and
LO crystals for a few more rigs. Contact me off list for more
info and pricing.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Wow!! What a neat set of pictures. Congratulations, Jim, on some wonderful
work.
Was that C09 with a 2N2-30 in his talons??
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Where is everybody?
> At 03:31 PM 7/16/2003 -0500, KB9BVN wrote:
>
> >Del,
> >
> >I think Jim may be off somewhere enjoying the summer and his bike, and
> >the other "guys" may be off the bench for the summer.
>
> Darned close, along with the osprey activity. Details
> of the osprey activity is at www.owsem.org
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS.....1500 miles of cycling so far this summer.
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I think so, unless there's another one. I think Jim did some SMT stuff
and posted pictures (I believe he used SMT parts in his RIT). As far as
I know though, I have the most SMT'd 2n2/40 in existence.
73,
John, N1QO
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Noel [mailto:
k4zku@erols.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 8:01 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Where is everybody?
John,
Is it your 2n2-40 SMT that I have seen pictures elsewhere on this site?
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/No, it's all manhattan style. There are pics of the 2n2/40+ smt on the
yahoo site somewhere (look in the file area and the photo area).
73,
John, N1QO
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul [mailto:
pswarman@screaming.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 3:25 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Where is everybody?
Hi John, I've been accumulating quite a lot of smt parts and as soon as
I find the courage I'd like to build something. Did you make a printed
circuit board for this rig and is it commercially available do you know.
Best regards
Paul
G0odp
-----Original Message-----
From: John Wagner [mailto:
john@wagner-usa.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 1:40 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Where is everybody?
Hey Del,
I've been fairly inactive ham wise and especially building wise for the
past year at least. I have managed to participate in FD though. On
occasion, I put my 2n2/40 and the 2n2/40 SMT on the air for a quick QSO,
but lately there just doesn't seem to be much time!
I've got most of the parts for a 2n2/30 and plan to build one at some
point, if I can squeek the time out.
73,
John, N1QO
-----Original Message-----
From: Delbert Long [mailto:
AD6WE@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 4:26 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Where is everybody?
Haven't heard any posts in a long time...is anyone still building?
How about the 2N2/15...is that design finished including the TX yet?
Haven't had mine on the air in a while...looking forward to the Flight
of the Bumblebees and the next Spartan Sprint...I think I'm going back
to the end fed wire for 40 meters and see if I have any luck with that.
All my operating is still mobile/portable...
73,
Del, AD6WE
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Hi all,
I'm still here and still working on my 2n2-30 in my "spare time"
although I have been crazy busy at work getting a new product
Certified and re-tested and re-designed etc, etc - so by the time I
get home I don't want anything to do with electronics. Maybe in the
fall after my Jewelry making class. The wife and I recently started
a small jewelry business,and (you guessed it) I get to do the repair
and re-sizing etc..
See, I've got lots of good excuses.
Met Jim at Dayton, and was thrilled ( and really fired up for a week
or two ) that experience alone should have got me through the next
two stages. I'm still diddling around with sorting out crystals and
the like.
Anyway, Del; we're still all out here, just not communicating!!
Jim (KI8H)
|
2606|2587|2003-07-23 20:12:21|Jeff Noel|Re: Where is everybody?|What is the current email adders for Jim, K8IQY?
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2607|2607|2003-07-23 22:19:57|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|2N2/40 Crystal sets|Gang,
I've had several inquiries about making crystal sets available
again for the 2N2/40 rig. I have enough stock that I can do
that for the several folks who have emailed me in the past
week.
Here is the deal! Start building your rig. When you have
it built to the point that you need the crystals for the filter,
send me a picture of the rig, and I'll send you a set of crystals
for $5.00, which includes shipping. I won't make much money on
the set, and the little bit that I do will be donated to Osprey
Watch of SE Michigan. www.owsem.org if you are interested in
the groups activities.
If you want the set of crystals up front before building any
of the rig, send me $10 and I'll get a set in the mail to you
pronto. Use my callbook address. What you are getting are
the 3 matched crystals, and the 2 LO crystals, 5 total.
Why the pricing difference? Well, the last time I sold crystal
sets, over 100 sets were purchased, and most of them are sitting
on the shelf. I spent a whopping lot of time matching all those
babies up, and getting the additional parts so that the complete
filters could be built. They were essentially sold at my cost,
and I got nothing for all of the labor involved. I'm not
going to ever do that again!
If you have a crystal set sitting on the shelf, now might be a good time
to make it available to another builder. I can supply names, if you
are interested in doing that.
I'm not going to respond individually to those who have recently
emailed me, as I'm doing a project for AmQRP, and have an insane
deadline to meet. I'll keep your email, and when things settle
down a bit, respond to your email.
BTW, for those building the latest version of the 2N2/40+, (the
preferred design now), the VFO and crystal filter tuning Varicap
diodes can be MV1662. Those can be obtained from Hosfelt Electronics.
Their matched sets of 3 diodes are $1.00, the last time I looked.
The MVAM108/109 is obsolete, as are the MV2115 diodes used in
the original design. Diz, W8DIZ has a bunch of MVAM109, at
good prices.
Sorry for the long post, but it's all important information, and
I didn't want to leave anybody hanging too long.
72 and GL to the new builders in the group,
Jim, K8IQY
PS......if you have a problem when you're building, I'll still
drop everything and try to help you out. That's always been my
top priority.
PPS....hope nobody takes offense to my hard line on the filter
crystals. It's the only solution that I've been able to come
up with that makes sense, and keeps some sanity in the parts
supply effort, so I'm not working for nothing.
|
2608|2607|2003-07-24 09:04:33|Steve|Re: 2N2/40 Crystal sets|Any plans to do 2N2/30 crystal sets?
Steve
aa8af
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> Gang,
>
> I've had several inquiries about making crystal sets available
> again for the 2N2/40 rig.
The Bacon Bits newsletter of the Flying Pigs QRP Club International is
no online and ready for your reading pleasure. Plenty of good
articles this month and Ken's fabulous contest calendar are included.
Visit the Flying PIg QRP Club International website and enjoy!
http://www.fpqrp.com/news.html - NEWSLETTER - FREE
http://www.fpqrp.com - Club Website - FREE
ALSO!!! Don't forget!!
The first annual "Run For the Bacon" sprint contest is this Sunday
night local time. Offical start time is 08/04/2003Z 00:00Z and
ending at 02:00Z - CW/SSB/PSK...all count.
For details visit: http://www.fpqrp.com/fpqrprun.html
73 de KB9BVN
========================================
KB9BVN/QRP - New Whiteland IN - EM69WN
QRP-ARCI #10223 QRP-L #1540 FIST #5695
FISTS CC #764 - Proud Member ARRL
K1 #1205, NC40A, or SWL Rigs
INTO INFAMOUS AF4PS ATTIC DIPOLE
SOC #400 AND FLYING PIGS QRP #-57
========================================
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.505 / Virus Database: 302 - Release Date: 2003-07-30
|
2610|2610|2003-08-01 21:55:25|Daniel|C2 capacitor|I figured I'd try doing one of these 2n2/40's and currently getting
parts together. The main thing that I seem to have trouble finding
is "C2 3pF NPO" havn't found it anywhere.
Pretty much everything else I seem to be able to find so far.
Daniel
W4ABN
|
2611|2610|2003-08-01 22:23:59|Kenneth Hoglund|Re: C2 capacitor|Daniel--
As the "cap king" for the original group build, I had the same problem. We came up with a "work-around" using a 1pF
with a 2.2 pF NPO. Works fine!
Happy Building!
Ken KG4FGC
Daniel wrote:
> I figured I'd try doing one of these 2n2/40's and currently getting
> parts together. The main thing that I seem to have trouble finding
> is "C2 3pF NPO" havn't found it anywhere.
>
At 01:55 AM 8/2/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>I figured I'd try doing one of these 2n2/40's and currently getting
>parts together. The main thing that I seem to have trouble finding
>is "C2 3pF NPO" havn't found it anywhere.
>
>Pretty much everything else I seem to be able to find so far.
>
>Daniel
>W4ABN
Daniel
Some electronics houses carry a 2.7pF NPO capacitor, that will work
fine, or parallel a 1pF with a 2.2pF.
GL building your rig.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Dan -
Make sure you keep us informed step-by-step. We all really enjoy watching
the birthing process while one of these super rigs comes to life. You will
find plenty of help here also, and, surprisingly, most of the time the help
will agree!
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2003 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] C2 capacitor
> At 01:55 AM 8/2/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >I figured I'd try doing one of these 2n2/40's and currently getting
> >parts together. The main thing that I seem to have trouble finding
> >is "C2 3pF NPO" havn't found it anywhere.
> >
> >Pretty much everything else I seem to be able to find so far.
> >
> >Daniel
> >W4ABN
>
> Daniel
>
> Some electronics houses carry a 2.7pF NPO capacitor, that will work
> fine, or parallel a 1pF with a 2.2pF.
>
> GL building your rig.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I got a little package in the mail with some of the parts that I had
ordered. I'm waiting for the other parts I ordered to come in. Right
now, the only things I still need to order is a board, toroids and a
few other small parts. The only place I've seen to get toroids is
from Dan's Small parts. If I remember right, the only one I didn't
notice was the FT37-43. I'll have to check again. I also saw on
previous posts that the MVAM109 and MV2115 was swiched to MV1662, so
I'll be getting those soon too.
The first thing I've ever built was an Elecraft K2 about 2 or 3 years
ago. Since then, I've built an SST, SMK-1 and some vectronics
transmitter kit that someone gave me. This will be the first radio
I've ever built that wasn't already in a pre-packaged kit. So
hopefully everything will go somewhat smoothly. While I wait for
parts to come in, I started putting things into little sandwich
baggies to separate everything according to assembly steps.
I was wondering if there was any type of measurements that was needed
either during or after each building stage. I havn't found anything
so I thought I would ask.
Well, that's it for now,
Daniel
w4abn
|
2615|2614|2003-08-05 19:21:59|Lee Mairs|Re: Parts (so far)|Daniel -
Check out the photos on the website and you will notice that there isn't a
board for the 2N2-40. You build it on a piece of copper circuit board and
glue little pads to the board. I think this is one of the reasons the
2N2-40 is such a quiet receiver.
I strongly urge you to get the 2N32-40 book that Paul Hardin, NA5A (I think)
puts out. It is great for an overview of building process; however, you
cannot follow it exactly since there have been a number of enhancements
since the early version.
I bought Paul's book, studied the heck out of it to get an "idea" for part
placement, but then worked form the latest schematics. It isn't tough since
a bunch of guys placed excruciatingly wonderful close up photos of each
stage of the build. (Why is it that the good builders have the best digital
cameras for recording their work?)
And, lastly, if in doubt, ask questions here!
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel" <dmcnece@nc.rr.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 6:38 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Parts (so far)
> I got a little package in the mail with some of the parts that I had
> ordered. I'm waiting for the other parts I ordered to come in. Right
> now, the only things I still need to order is a board, toroids and a
> few other small parts. The only place I've seen to get toroids is
> from Dan's Small parts. If I remember right, the only one I didn't
> notice was the FT37-43. I'll have to check again. I also saw on
> previous posts that the MVAM109 and MV2115 was swiched to MV1662, so
> I'll be getting those soon too.
>
> The first thing I've ever built was an Elecraft K2 about 2 or 3 years
> ago. Since then, I've built an SST, SMK-1 and some vectronics
> transmitter kit that someone gave me. This will be the first radio
> I've ever built that wasn't already in a pre-packaged kit. So
> hopefully everything will go somewhat smoothly. While I wait for
> parts to come in, I started putting things into little sandwich
> baggies to separate everything according to assembly steps.
>
> I was wondering if there was any type of measurements that was needed
> either during or after each building stage. I havn't found anything
> so I thought I would ask.
>
> Well, that's it for now,
> Daniel
> w4abn
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Daniel,
You can get toroids from Diz W8DIZ at www.partsandkits.com
If you read through the group archives, you should find some posts about
troubleshooting the different sections. If you have a question about
measurements, just post it to the list. This is a very helpful group. Good
luck with your project!
72,
Pat KF4LMZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel" <dmcnece@nc.rr.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 6:38 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Parts (so far)
> I got a little package in the mail with some of the parts that I had
> ordered. I'm waiting for the other parts I ordered to come in. Right
> now, the only things I still need to order is a board, toroids and a
> few other small parts. The only place I've seen to get toroids is
> from Dan's Small parts. If I remember right, the only one I didn't
> notice was the FT37-43. I'll have to check again. I also saw on
> previous posts that the MVAM109 and MV2115 was swiched to MV1662, so
> I'll be getting those soon too.
>
> The first thing I've ever built was an Elecraft K2 about 2 or 3 years
> ago. Since then, I've built an SST, SMK-1 and some vectronics
> transmitter kit that someone gave me. This will be the first radio
> I've ever built that wasn't already in a pre-packaged kit. So
> hopefully everything will go somewhat smoothly. While I wait for
> parts to come in, I started putting things into little sandwich
> baggies to separate everything according to assembly steps.
>
> I was wondering if there was any type of measurements that was needed
> either during or after each building stage. I havn't found anything
> so I thought I would ask.
>
> Well, that's it for now,
> Daniel
> w4abn
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hi Daniel,
Paul Harden puts out a book that covers the first version of the radio.
If you get the book, make sure you get the errata sheet for it. Do a
search in the archives for "NA5N" and you will find a bunch of messages
about the book (and the errata) and Paul's o'scope article (which is in
our file area). The book has a nice description of each stage and how to
test it. Even though the version of the radio in the book doesn't match
the updated schematics it is an invaluable resource.
As far as measurements, you will find that Jim, K8IQY took a bunch of
o'scope shots all the way through the rcvr and xmtr - they are
invaluable. The schematics have voltage measurements on them for all of
the 2n2222's.
Make sure you look through the picture and file areas on the Yahoo site,
there is a ton of stuff there that you will find useful.
Good luck es 73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner
john@wagner-usa.net http://www.wagner-usa.net/ -----Original Message-----
From: Daniel [mailto:
dmcnece@nc.rr.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 6:38 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Parts (so far)
I got a little package in the mail with some of the parts that I had
ordered. I'm waiting for the other parts I ordered to come in. Right
now, the only things I still need to order is a board, toroids and a
few other small parts. The only place I've seen to get toroids is
from Dan's Small parts. If I remember right, the only one I didn't
notice was the FT37-43. I'll have to check again. I also saw on
previous posts that the MVAM109 and MV2115 was swiched to MV1662, so
I'll be getting those soon too.
The first thing I've ever built was an Elecraft K2 about 2 or 3 years
ago. Since then, I've built an SST, SMK-1 and some vectronics
transmitter kit that someone gave me. This will be the first radio
I've ever built that wasn't already in a pre-packaged kit. So
hopefully everything will go somewhat smoothly. While I wait for
parts to come in, I started putting things into little sandwich
baggies to separate everything according to assembly steps.
I was wondering if there was any type of measurements that was needed
either during or after each building stage. I havn't found anything
so I thought I would ask.
Well, that's it for now,
Daniel
w4abn
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Well, here's my progress:
Parts: Most of them are in. When I first got started on collecting
the parts, I found the info for the project at: www.qsl.net/k8iqy
I found the site for KB1ENS, and found a link to this forum, and
then... I found new schematics and parts list in the files... Good
thing most of them are still the same. Just need a few different
things.
I don't have a board yet. I got a smaller one at Radio Shack and
started making pads with an ADEL nibbler. Those pads are smaller than
I thought they would be but going well. I am making a bunch of them
suckers and putting them in a sandwich size ziplock.
So far so good... then again, I havn't started building yet...
Daniel
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel" wrote:
> I got a little package in the mail with some of the parts that I
had
> ordered. I'm waiting for the other parts I ordered to come in.
Right
> now, the only things I still need to order is a board, toroids and
a
> few other small parts. The only place I've seen to get toroids is
> from Dan's Small parts. If I remember right, the only one I didn't
> notice was the FT37-43. I'll have to check again. I also saw on
> previous posts that the MVAM109 and MV2115 was swiched to MV1662,
so
> I'll be getting those soon too.
>
> The first thing I've ever built was an Elecraft K2 about 2 or 3
years
> ago. Since then, I've built an SST, SMK-1 and some vectronics
> transmitter kit that someone gave me. This will be the first radio
> I've ever built that wasn't already in a pre-packaged kit. So
> hopefully everything will go somewhat smoothly. While I wait for
> parts to come in, I started putting things into little sandwich
> baggies to separate everything according to assembly steps.
>
> I was wondering if there was any type of measurements that was
needed
> either during or after each building stage. I havn't found anything
> so I thought I would ask.
>
> Well, that's it for now,
> Daniel
> w4abn
Just watch how you wind those toroids. I don't know anybody who got the
tri-filar transformers correct the first time. I highly recommend getting
some of that multi-colored enamel wire form Dan's Small parts.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel" <dmcnece@nc.rr.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 5:59 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Parts (so far)
> Well, here's my progress:
> Parts: Most of them are in. When I first got started on collecting
> the parts, I found the info for the project at: www.qsl.net/k8iqy
> I found the site for KB1ENS, and found a link to this forum, and
> then... I found new schematics and parts list in the files... Good
> thing most of them are still the same. Just need a few different
> things.
>
> I don't have a board yet. I got a smaller one at Radio Shack and
> started making pads with an ADEL nibbler. Those pads are smaller than
> I thought they would be but going well. I am making a bunch of them
> suckers and putting them in a sandwich size ziplock.
>
> So far so good... then again, I havn't started building yet...
> Daniel
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel" wrote:
> > I got a little package in the mail with some of the parts that I
> had
> > ordered. I'm waiting for the other parts I ordered to come in.
> Right
> > now, the only things I still need to order is a board, toroids and
> a
> > few other small parts. The only place I've seen to get toroids is
> > from Dan's Small parts. If I remember right, the only one I didn't
> > notice was the FT37-43. I'll have to check again. I also saw on
> > previous posts that the MVAM109 and MV2115 was swiched to MV1662,
> so
> > I'll be getting those soon too.
> >
> > The first thing I've ever built was an Elecraft K2 about 2 or 3
> years
> > ago. Since then, I've built an SST, SMK-1 and some vectronics
> > transmitter kit that someone gave me. This will be the first radio
> > I've ever built that wasn't already in a pre-packaged kit. So
> > hopefully everything will go somewhat smoothly. While I wait for
> > parts to come in, I started putting things into little sandwich
> > baggies to separate everything according to assembly steps.
> >
> > I was wondering if there was any type of measurements that was
> needed
> > either during or after each building stage. I havn't found anything
> > so I thought I would ask.
> >
> > Well, that's it for now,
> > Daniel
> > w4abn
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hi Daniel,
There was a company called "Electronic Goldmine" or something like that
that sold packs of copper board at a pretty reasonable price. You might
want to do a google search on them and get a catalog.
I've never used the ADEL nibbler, but I think a number of people have
been successful with it.
73,
John, N1QO (ex KB1ENS ... ;) )
--
John Wagner
john@wagner-usa.net http://www.wagner-usa.net/ -----Original Message-----
From: Daniel [mailto:
dmcnece@nc.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 6:00 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Parts (so far)
Well, here's my progress:
Parts: Most of them are in. When I first got started on collecting
the parts, I found the info for the project at: www.qsl.net/k8iqy I
found the site for KB1ENS, and found a link to this forum, and
then... I found new schematics and parts list in the files... Good
thing most of them are still the same. Just need a few different
things.
I don't have a board yet. I got a smaller one at Radio Shack and
started making pads with an ADEL nibbler. Those pads are smaller than
I thought they would be but going well. I am making a bunch of them
suckers and putting them in a sandwich size ziplock.
So far so good... then again, I havn't started building yet... Daniel
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel" wrote:
> I got a little package in the mail with some of the parts that I
had
> ordered. I'm waiting for the other parts I ordered to come in.
Right
> now, the only things I still need to order is a board, toroids and
a
> few other small parts. The only place I've seen to get toroids is
> from Dan's Small parts. If I remember right, the only one I didn't
> notice was the FT37-43. I'll have to check again. I also saw on
> previous posts that the MVAM109 and MV2115 was swiched to MV1662,
so
> I'll be getting those soon too.
>
> The first thing I've ever built was an Elecraft K2 about 2 or 3
years
> ago. Since then, I've built an SST, SMK-1 and some vectronics
> transmitter kit that someone gave me. This will be the first radio
> I've ever built that wasn't already in a pre-packaged kit. So
> hopefully everything will go somewhat smoothly. While I wait for
> parts to come in, I started putting things into little sandwich
> baggies to separate everything according to assembly steps.
>
> I was wondering if there was any type of measurements that was
needed
> either during or after each building stage. I havn't found anything
> so I thought I would ask.
>
> Well, that's it for now,
> Daniel
> w4abn
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hello- I have wanted to launch into the 2N2-40 and last year I
gathered up all of the photos and instructions and began studying
all.I just started studying the information here and realize that
the recommended version to build is the 2N2-40+.Where might I find
the information for this latest version?
Also, the versions for the other bands, are there instructions
available for them? I am mostly interested in 30 meters.
I see that FAR Circuits is selling a 2N2-40 PC board set, does
this board set correspond to any of these projects?
Thanks all, Byron WA5THJ.
|
2622|2621|2003-09-13 03:03:18|Kevin M., W8VOS|Re: New To Group|Byron,
You should be able to find the new schematics that Jim posted to the
files section.
They are under 2N240+ Schematics and are in .pdf format. If you don't
have Acrobat Reader you can get it at the Adobe.com site.
The information is all in the posts. If you have a problem post to the
list and we will all get it and try to help. I built mine in 2001/02.
73/72 - Kevin, W8VOS (ex. KC8SFJ)
----- Original Message -----
From: "wa5thj" <bjtatum@ev1.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 2:46 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] New To Group
Hello- I have wanted to launch into the 2N2-40 and last year I
gathered up all of the photos and instructions and began studying
all.I just started studying the information here and realize that
the recommended version to build is the 2N2-40+.Where might I find
the information for this latest version?
Also, the versions for the other bands, are there instructions
available for them? I am mostly interested in 30 meters.
I see that FAR Circuits is selling a 2N2-40 PC board set, does
this board set correspond to any of these projects?
Thanks all, Byron WA5THJ.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I wasn't aware that FAR Circuits had 2N2-40 circuit board sets, unless they
are just blank boards in the proper dimension.
You will be amazed at how easily Manhattan construction goes. When I first
started, I compared the pictures in NA5N's 2N2-40 reprint book and wasted
hours trying to figure out exactly what to do. After getting thru the 1st
if stage, I just worked off the schematic with only a glance at the photos
on our web page. The photos definitely helped me to catch errors before I
made them.
The 2N2-40 will give you more pride and pleasure than any other thing you
could build, plus the receiver is incredibly quiet - probably a direct
result of the Manhattan construction. The only tricky part is winding the
toroids. Make sure you get a collection of multi-colored enamel wire for
this part of the construction. See Dan's Small Parts. He sells a double
balanced mixer kit of three different colored wires. I made every
permutation and combination of errors building my rig winding these &*(*&(%!
things.
Finally, if you are stuck, post a message here. The help will come flying
out of the wood work. We owe Jim Kortege a real debt of gratitude for
introducing this rig.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "wa5thj" <bjtatum@ev1.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 2:46 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] New To Group
> Hello- I have wanted to launch into the 2N2-40 and last year I
> gathered up all of the photos and instructions and began studying
> all.I just started studying the information here and realize that
> the recommended version to build is the 2N2-40+.Where might I find
> the information for this latest version?
> Also, the versions for the other bands, are there instructions
> available for them? I am mostly interested in 30 meters.
> I see that FAR Circuits is selling a 2N2-40 PC board set, does
> this board set correspond to any of these projects?
> Thanks all, Byron WA5THJ.
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 06:46 AM 9/13/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello-
Hi Byron.....
> I have wanted to launch into the 2N2-40 and last year I
>gathered up all of the photos and instructions and began studying
>all.I just started studying the information here and realize that
>the recommended version to build is the 2N2-40+.Where might I find
>the information for this latest version?
On the Yahoo 2n2-40 group. You have to be member to post,
but I think you can look at the photos and files without
out being a member. If not, join the group, get the info,
and be prepared for some spam from Yahoo. That's the only
downside of joining.
> Also, the versions for the other bands, are there instructions
>available for them? I am mostly interested in 30 meters.
The early schematics for the 2N2/30 are there, but the latest
version isn't there yet. I have had the files ready to upload
for a couple of months at least, but the Yahoo system wouldn't
take them for some reason. I was too busy to chase that problem,
but will take another whack at it later this week when things
settle down a tad. Kinda crazy here at the moment.
> I see that FAR Circuits is selling a 2N2-40 PC board set, does
>this board set correspond to any of these projects?
Not any of my stuff as far as I know. These boards might be
for Steve (melt solder) Weber's, KD1JV's 2N2222 rig that he designed
back several years ago when I did the 2N2/40.
I've never done a PC board layout for the rig, as it wouldn't
be the same Mahattan-style constuction rig as the original,
and probably would not work quite as well. The whole concept
of the rig is to educate folks on building gear using Manhattan-
style construction methods.
> Thanks all, Byron WA5THJ.
You bet.....have fun!! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I am just getting all the parts gathered now to start on the 2n2/40
and can not find any information on the wire sizes for the
toroids...That information must be somewhere and I hope someone will
point me in the right direction
I understand there was a book put together on building the 2N2/40 but
I am unable to locate the author or the printer. Does anyone know
where it can be purshased?
Steve NU0P
|
2627|2626|2003-11-17 09:52:27|Lee Mairs (SAG)|Re: Wire Sizes?|The book was written by na5n, It covers the early version of the 2N2-40,
but I found it helpful in getting some idea about laying out the parts.
Your best bet, however, would be to look closely at the detailed photos on
the website. Several guys posted some excellent pictures including Jim
Kortege.
Re: wire size. Anything that is small, tinned, and flexible will work well.
I found some Teflon stuff in my junk box that worked fine except that it is
a bear to strip it without a hot knife tool.
Have fun! This will be one of the high points of your ham career as many
others will testify. The toroid transformers (especially the trifilar ones)
are a real pain to wind, and even harder to install correctly. I strongly
recommend getting some of the colored magnet wire so that you can keep
track of which winding is which! I know that I must have installed each of
mine N! times.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
BTW, don't hesitate to ask for help. The 2N2-40 builders are an intensely
loyal group and love to add to there number!
----- Original Message -----
From: "stever1k" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2003 11:35 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Wire Sizes?
> I am just getting all the parts gathered now to start on the 2n2/40
> and can not find any information on the wire sizes for the
> toroids...That information must be somewhere and I hope someone will
> point me in the right direction
>
> I understand there was a book put together on building the 2N2/40 but
> I am unable to locate the author or the printer. Does anyone know
> where it can be purshased?
>
> Steve NU0P
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Lee Mairs (SAG)"
wrote:
> The book was written by na5n, It covers the early version of the
2N2-40,
> but I found it helpful in getting some idea about laying out the
parts.
> Your best bet, however, would be to look closely at the detailed
photos on
> the website. Several guys posted some excellent pictures including
Jim
> Kortege.
>
> Re: wire size. Anything that is small, tinned, and flexible will
work well.
> I found some Teflon stuff in my junk box that worked fine except
that it is
> a bear to strip it without a hot knife tool.
>
> Have fun! This will be one of the high points of your ham career
as many
> others will testify. The toroid transformers (especially the
trifilar ones)
> are a real pain to wind, and even harder to install correctly. I
strongly
> recommend getting some of the colored magnet wire so that you can
keep
> track of which winding is which! I know that I must have installed
each of
> mine N! times.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY/8
>
> BTW, don't hesitate to ask for help. The 2N2-40 builders are an
intensely
> loyal group and love to add to there number!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "stever1k"
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2003 11:35 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Wire Sizes?
>
>
> > I am just getting all the parts gathered now to start on the
2n2/40
> > and can not find any information on the wire sizes for the
> > toroids...That information must be somewhere and I hope someone
will
> > point me in the right direction
> >
> > I understand there was a book put together on building the 2N2/40
but
> > I am unable to locate the author or the printer. Does anyone know
> > where it can be purshased?
> >
> > Steve NU0P
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >Thank you so much for your help here and support as well. I
should have enough of the parts by next week to get started and I am
sure that I will asking questions and looking for help on ocassions.
Thanks Steve NU0PSteve,
The wire size is #24 to #28 whatever is handy. It should be enamel covered coil wire.
The whole project was published in QRPp Vol. VI No. 4. ( Winter 1998 ) and while it has been modified a lot (see the new schematics in the files area) it is still a good guide for the construction.
You can write to Doug Hendricks, 863 Frank Ave., Dos Palos, CA 93620 and see if he has anymore of the back issues left. He is also on the qrp-L mail reflector so it might be easier to ask him that way.
Hope this helps.
73/72 - Kevin, W8VOS
2n2/40 # 33
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 04:35:04 -0000
From: "stever1k" <
stever1k@hotmail.com>
Subject: Wire Sizes?
I am just getting all the parts gathered now to start on the 2n2/40
and can not find any information on the wire sizes for the
toroids...That information must be somewhere and I hope someone will
point me in the right direction
I understand there was a book put together on building the 2N2/40 but
I am unable to locate the author or the printer. Does anyone know
where it can be purchased?
Steve NU0P
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
One of the QRP equipment dealers is selling NA5N's stuff, but NA5N is also
on QRP-L list a lot when the sun is exploding. Maybe he will speak up if
you ask the same question over there.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin M., W8VOS" <adverseyaw@twmi.rr.com>
To: <stever1k@hotmail.com>; "2N2/40 List Server" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 3:14 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] RE: Wire Sizes
> Steve,
> The wire size is #24 to #28 whatever is handy. It should be enamel
covered coil wire.
> The whole project was published in QRPp Vol. VI No. 4. ( Winter 1998 ) and
while it has been modified a lot (see the new schematics in the files area)
it is still a good guide for the construction.
> You can write to Doug Hendricks, 863 Frank Ave., Dos Palos, CA 93620 and
see if he has anymore of the back issues left. He is also on the qrp-L mail
reflector so it might be easier to ask him that way.
> Hope this helps.
>
>
> 73/72 - Kevin, W8VOS
> 2n2/40 # 33
>
>
> Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 04:35:04 -0000
> From: "stever1k" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Wire Sizes?
>
> I am just getting all the parts gathered now to start on the 2n2/40
> and can not find any information on the wire sizes for the
> toroids...That information must be somewhere and I hope someone will
> point me in the right direction
>
> I understand there was a book put together on building the 2N2/40 but
> I am unable to locate the author or the printer. Does anyone know
> where it can be purchased?
>
> Steve NU0P
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
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>
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>
>
>
I am trying to find these in my junk box and have some that have
forward voltage drops of about 1.8 volts rather than 2.0 volts. I
think that the key parameter is the current that it takes to light
them up. Can I use 1.8 v LED's that light up with 2-5ma of current
or is the requirement of 2.0 volts @ 2ma hard and fast???
Very close to having all the parts now....
Steve NU0P
|
2632|2631|2003-11-23 19:33:25|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2n2/40 2v LED's|At 03:53 PM 11/23/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>I am trying to find these in my junk box and have some that have
>forward voltage drops of about 1.8 volts rather than 2.0 volts. I
>think that the key parameter is the current that it takes to light
>them up.
No, actually, it is the voltage drop that is important. Having
them low current just makes the power supply work less hard.
> Can I use 1.8 v LED's that light up with 2-5ma of current
>or is the requirement of 2.0 volts @ 2ma hard and fast???
The 1.8 volt jobbies will work just fine, regardless of how much
current they are rated for. If they light up, they are doing
the job we want; being little constant voltage sources.
72 and have fun building,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim
I never would have thought to use a LED as a zener diode!!!! I was
busy trying to figure out why you had them in their since I was
trying to figure out what they were indicating...So was even thinking
about how they would be placed on the front panel and what colors to
use!!! Ha!
Thanks now I will know not to drill holes for them in the front
panel...Gads. Good thing I asked that question...If the 1.8 volt
ones will work then I have what I need..
I have plenty of parts to start building now, just a few more to get,
need the 2N7000 since I don't have any of those, just the normal
kinds I would use in front ends etc. Will they work just as well?
I need to figure out how to best match up my crystals and start
getting what I need for that task. I bought 10 of them hoping that I
will find 3 that will be close enough to do the job but have no idea
yet on how to match them..What is the best/eastiest way to do that??
I have a scope,counter and signal generator.
Think I will start getting the board layed out and try getting a few
parts on it.
Steve
-- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 03:53 PM 11/23/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >I am trying to find these in my junk box and have some that have
> >forward voltage drops of about 1.8 volts rather than 2.0 volts. I
> >think that the key parameter is the current that it takes to light
> >them up.
>
> No, actually, it is the voltage drop that is important. Having
> them low current just makes the power supply work less hard.
>
> > Can I use 1.8 v LED's that light up with 2-5ma of current
> >or is the requirement of 2.0 volts @ 2ma hard and fast???
>
> The 1.8 volt jobbies will work just fine, regardless of how much
> current they are rated for. If they light up, they are doing
> the job we want; being little constant voltage sources.
>
> 72 and have fun building,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
At 01:38 AM 11/24/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim
>
>I never would have thought to use a LED as a zener diode!!!! I was
>busy trying to figure out why you had them in their since I was
>trying to figure out what they were indicating...So was even thinking
>about how they would be placed on the front panel and what colors to
>use!!! Ha!
I've been using LEDs as low voltage zener diodes in several circuits.
They work well, and always look neat in the rig, or on the front
panel.
>Thanks now I will know not to drill holes for them in the front
>panel...Gads. Good thing I asked that question...If the 1.8 volt
>ones will work then I have what I need..
Those should be fine.
>I have plenty of parts to start building now, just a few more to get,
>need the 2N7000 since I don't have any of those, just the normal
>kinds I would use in front ends etc. Will they work just as well?
Not really. The 2N7000 is a MOSFET, and is quite a bit
different in its characteristics from a normal bipolar
transistor. The circuit using the J176 junction FET for
muting is the best way to go. It is the quietest of all
the circuits that I tried. I think the schematic for that
version of the mute circuit is up on the Yahoo web site too.
>I need to figure out how to best match up my crystals and start
>getting what I need for that task. I bought 10 of them hoping that I
>will find 3 that will be close enough to do the job but have no idea
>yet on how to match them..What is the best/eastiest way to do that??
>I have a scope,counter and signal generator.
Essentially, drive each crystal with the generator at low level,
and watch its output on the scope. When you hit the peak, record
the reading of the counter that is also connected to the generator
and pick the three that are the closest in frequency. You should
use a 50 attenuator between the generator and the crystal to keep
the drive impedance constant, and load the crystal output with
another 50 ohm so that it is looking into a constant impedance, and
not the scope's 1 megohm input impedance. On the NJ QRP web site
is a circuit that I designed which embodies the above concepts.
>Think I will start getting the board layed out and try getting a few
>parts on it.
Always a good move. Getting started for many is the hardest
step.
By the way, if you have problems matching your crystals, send them
to me and I'll do it for you. But, you should try to do it yourself,
as you'll learn a lot! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I think I know the answer to this...The new pre-amp rev 1.0 must go
between the output of the Rx Mute and the Audio amp. I think that is
where it goes... and since I am starting my build I wonder if you
think it can make it onto the space alloted to the Product Det,Rx
Mute and Audio amp. Looks like to me with a bit of for thought it can
be squeezed into that space easily enough.
Got the board layed out now and tomorrow begin putting in parts, have
several days off now and should be able to make good progress, now
hope the deliver man gets here with a few more parts.
Steve NU0P
|
2636|2635|2003-11-25 12:18:18|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Audio Pre-Amp Mod|At 05:49 AM 11/25/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>I think I know the answer to this...The new pre-amp rev 1.0 must go
>between the output of the Rx Mute and the Audio amp. I think that is
>where it goes... and since I am starting my build I wonder if you
>think it can make it onto the space alloted to the Product Det,Rx
>Mute and Audio amp. Looks like to me with a bit of for thought it can
>be squeezed into that space easily enough.
Well actually, it goes between the product detector output and
the receive mute input. That way, the audio is amplified
part way before the mute circuit operates on it, thus reducing
the chance for pops and thumps in the final audio.
>Got the board layed out now and tomorrow begin putting in parts, have
>several days off now and should be able to make good progress, now
>hope the deliver man gets here with a few more parts.
Sounds like a good setup to me! :-)
72 and happy building Steve,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
Since some folks are starting to build this rig again, I've
updated the schematics to the very lastest version, which
uses the J176 Rx Mute, and the 2N7000 RIT circuit. The
older version of the schematics have been removed, since
this version provides the best possible performance for
an all discrete component rig.
I don't know which version of the rig the bill of materials
matches, and don't have time at the moment to sort that all
out, but will do so shortly.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
2638|2637|2003-11-25 17:28:15|Brian Murrey|Re: 2N2/40+ Schematics|Many thanks Jim!!
I might actually get mine done this winter.
73
----- Original Message -----
From: "k8iqy" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 2:21 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2/40+ Schematics
> Gang,
>
> Since some folks are starting to build this rig again, I've
> updated the schematics to the very lastest version, which
> uses the J176 Rx Mute, and the 2N7000 RIT circuit. The
> older version of the schematics have been removed, since
> this version provides the best possible performance for
> an all discrete component rig.
>
> I don't know which version of the rig the bill of materials
> matches, and don't have time at the moment to sort that all
> out, but will do so shortly.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
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->
>
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>
Me too. I started the first section 6 months ago, and haven't touched it
since. I can hear it calling late at night....
72
.mark
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Brian Murrey [mailto:brian@iquest.net]
>Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 2:31 PM
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/40+ Schematics
>
>
>Many thanks Jim!!
>
>I might actually get mine done this winter.
>
>73
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "k8iqy" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
>To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 2:21 PM
>Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2/40+ Schematics
>
>
>> Gang,
>>
>> Since some folks are starting to build this rig again, I've
>> updated the schematics to the very lastest version, which
>> uses the J176 Rx Mute, and the 2N7000 RIT circuit. The
>> older version of the schematics have been removed, since
>> this version provides the best possible performance for
>> an all discrete component rig.
>>
>> I don't know which version of the rig the bill of materials
>> matches, and don't have time at the moment to sort that all
>> out, but will do so shortly.
>>
>> 72,
>>
>> Jim, K8IQY
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
>Sponsor ---------------------~-->
>> Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for your HP, Epson, Canon
>or Lexmark
>> Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US &
>Canada.
>> http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511
>> http://us.click.yahoo.com/mOAaAA/3exGAA/qnsNAA/ELTolB/TM
>>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------~
>->
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>---------------------~-->
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>
Ignore me - not getting mail, playing with prefs, trying to fix, etc. Sorry for
the BW, etc, etc, etc, hi hi
--
_
/ \ | 72/73/oo - Rob, W0JRM -
jimrob@jetnetinc.net - ARRL MEMBER
\ / | FPQrp -330; QRPp-I #19; WATPK #1; SOC #442; ARS #1143
X | Are you a gun nut?
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gun_nut_hams / \ <--- ASCII Ribbon Campaign against HTML E-Mail (hi - hi!)
"If a vegetarian eats vegetables, what does a humanitarian eat?"
I have a pair of MV2115 instead of the MV1662's which is what the
current schematic calls for. Should I assume to use the old
schematic as far as all the parts that relate to bias and the
additional 100pf caps in parallel with the MV2115. I can drop the
LED's then as well and the 1.8K resistor in series with Vcc. This
sound right to everyone.
Is there any performance inprovements with the MV1662's that is
noteworthy??
Steve NU0P
|
2642|2642|2003-11-27 22:00:35|Rob Matherly|Board size?|Hi all;
In the beginning stages of building a 2n2-30, and was wondering if it is
possible to squeeze the whole rig on a single 3.75"x4.75" board.
TIA
--
/""\ | 72/73/oo - Rob, W0JRM -
jimrob@jetnetinc.net - ARRL MEMBER
\ / | FPQrp -330; QRPp-I #19; WATPK #1; ARS #1143; Iowa QRP #143
X | Are you a gun nut?
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gun_nut_hams / \ <--- ASCII Ribbon Campaign against HTML E-Mail (hi - hi!)
"If a vegetarian eats vegetables, what does a humanitarian eat?"
At 01:30 AM 11/28/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>I have a pair of MV2115 instead of the MV1662's which is what the
>current schematic calls for. Should I assume to use the old
>schematic as far as all the parts that relate to bias and the
>additional 100pf caps in parallel with the MV2115. I can drop the
>LED's then as well and the 1.8K resistor in series with Vcc. This
>sound right to everyone.
>
>Is there any performance inprovements with the MV1662's that is
>noteworthy??
>
>Steve NU0P
Steve,
The two circuits are very similar in performance. However, if you
would like to build the most recent version, I'd be happy to send
you a pair of MV1662 varicaps to use.
Send me your mailing address off list and I'll get them in the mail
in the next few days if your interested.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 08:58 PM 11/27/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>Hi all;
>
>In the beginning stages of building a 2n2-30, and was wondering if it is
>possible to squeeze the whole rig on a single 3.75"x4.75" board.
>
>TIA
Rob,
Getting the rig on that small of a board is doable, but you'll
really have to work at it. It would probably be better to split
the rig into two two boards that size, and put part of the rig
on one board, and the rest on the other. However, partitioning
it will be a bit critical, and I'm not sure I can steer you closely
enough on how to do that task to guarantee that the finished rig
will work without problems.
In general, I'd put the front-end of the receiver, maybe to the
Rx mute circuitry, and the VFO on one board, and the remaining
audio stage and the Tx circuitry on the other board. Also, have
you considered using a piece of double sided PC board material,
and using both sides for building? I used that approach on the
QRP-10 that I built, and it worked quite well. Once one side was
built, I put some 1" long spacers on the built side so that I could
turn it over and build on the other side without crushing the
components.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Jim;
Thanks a bunch for the reply!
> Getting the rig on that small of a board is doable, but you'll
> really have to work at it. It would probably be better to split
> the rig into two two boards that size, and put part of the rig
> on one board, and the rest on the other. However, partitioning
> it will be a bit critical, and I'm not sure I can steer you closely
> enough on how to do that task to guarantee that the finished rig
> will work without problems.
I may try the double-sided approach.... the tin I had *planned* on putting the
rig in has dimensions of 4"Dx6"Wx3"H. (Made a typo on the board size
mentioned... would be 3.75"x5.75") I was trying to work out a way to be able
to have everything but the coaxial jacks inside the case. I also wanted to
try and put a Norcal BLT in there with it, but I suspect I'm running out of
room, hi hi!
> Also, have
> you considered using a piece of double sided PC board material,
> and using both sides for building? I used that approach on the
> QRP-10 that I built, and it worked quite well. Once one side was
> built, I put some 1" long spacers on the built side so that I could
> turn it over and build on the other side without crushing the
> components.
I'll look into that... maybe if I scrap the idea of keeping all the controls
under the lid I could fit it in there, along with the BLT...
Heck, maybe I'll just look for a bigger case, lol
--
/""\ | 72/73/oo - Rob, W0JRM -
jimrob@jetnetinc.net - ARRL MEMBER
\ / | FPQrp -330; QRPp-I #19; WATPK #1; ARS #1143; Iowa QRP #143
X | Are you a gun nut?
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gun_nut_hams / \ <--- ASCII Ribbon Campaign against HTML E-Mail (hi - hi!)
"If a vegetarian eats vegetables, what does a humanitarian eat?"
Jim
Unless you think that I should use the newer devices, I do not feel
compelled to use them if there is no usefull improvement in
performance and from what I understand I would not see any. So Thank
you for the offer but there is no real reason to send those to me,
besides I bet that there will come a time when I need some real help
and don't want to put you out to early.....HI.
Got a few parts on the board but most of my time has been taken up in
trying to make sure I have the right layout to go with the newer
schematics and such so there is alot of double checking and remarking
some of the layout. Been working on getting the layout right, The
layout that Craig did is excellent but it was done before the
RIT,Premap and a few other mods came out so it doesn't account for
them and have to sure every step of the way that it matches your new
schematics. I will have to make some changes also since I have to
make some room on the board for the new parts and all.
Have some of the R/T switch done now and will finish it tomorrow and
then on to the VFO/RIT section, that one will take a lot more time.
Steve
.--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 01:30 AM 11/28/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >I have a pair of MV2115 instead of the MV1662's which is what the
> >current schematic calls for. Should I assume to use the old
> >schematic as far as all the parts that relate to bias and the
> >additional 100pf caps in parallel with the MV2115. I can drop the
> >LED's then as well and the 1.8K resistor in series with Vcc. This
> >sound right to everyone.
> >
> >Is there any performance inprovements with the MV1662's that is
> >noteworthy??
> >
> >Steve NU0P
>
> Steve,
>
> The two circuits are very similar in performance. However, if you
> would like to build the most recent version, I'd be happy to send
> you a pair of MV1662 varicaps to use.
>
> Send me your mailing address off list and I'll get them in the mail
> in the next few days if your interested.
>
> 72,
> Jim, K8IQY
Is the R76 potentiometer a pot on the board or is it on the front
panel??? I would think that this is on the front panel...Right???
Got the first section done and now am laying out the VFO and RIT all
in the same location as the original VFO and its a bit tight...So I
the hope the pot is on the front panel!
Steve NU0P
|
2648|2647|2003-11-29 10:13:29|Howard Kraus|Re: R76 (1k) in RIT Circuit|It's both. The pot is panel mounted, but is also
soldered to its own piece of PCB with all of the RIT's
supporting components mounted Manhattan style. If you
are using a cabinet the same size as Jim's prototype,
it should fit with room to spare.
GL es 72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- Steve White <
stever1k@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Is the R76 potentiometer a pot on the board or is it
> on the front
> panel??? I would think that this is on the front
> panel...Right???
>
> Got the first section done and now am laying out the
> VFO and RIT all
> in the same location as the original VFO and its a
> bit tight...So I
> the hope the pot is on the front panel!
>
> Steve NU0P
>
>
__________________________________
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Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfreeAt 02:54 AM 11/29/2003 +0000, Steve, NU0P wrote:
>Is the R76 potentiometer a pot on the board or is it on the front
>panel??? I would think that this is on the front panel...Right???
Yes, R76 is the RIT control pot and is mounted on the front
panel. As a matter of fact, you can build most or all of
the RIT circuitry on a small sub-board, and mount the whole
affair on the front panel using the RIT pot mounting hardware.
Here is the URL to pix showing some ideas:
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/vwp?.dir=/K8IQY+RIT+pictures&.src=gr&.dnm=DualRITPix.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/lst%3f%26.dir=/K8IQY%2bRIT%2bpictures%26.src=gr%26.view=t If that link doesn't work, go to the 2n2-40 pictures section
to find the picture with the RITs for the 2N2/40+ and my SW-30++.
On the 2N2/30, the configuration is a little different. I put
most of the RIT components on the sub-board, but put the varicap
diode, trimmer, 47K resistor, and its bypass on the main board
next to the VFO. That way, only DC voltages are on the connecting
leads, and not VFO RF on the lead going to the sub-board. It made
the RIT more stable. I can post a picture if anyone is interested.
>Got the first section done and now am laying out the VFO and RIT all
>in the same location as the original VFO and its a bit tight...So I
>the hope the pot is on the front panel!
I'd suggest looking at the layout for the 2N2/30 rig also, as
that is about optimal, and is quite similar in design to the
2N2/40+. Might give you some ideas on partitioning the
substrate to get all the parts on.
Glad to see that you are building......great!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Check out the photos on the website. You will find several to explain the
location. It is tough to explain, altho Howard did a pretty good job.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard Kraus" <kaytwoyoudee@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2003 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] R76 (1k) in RIT Circuit
> It's both. The pot is panel mounted, but is also
> soldered to its own piece of PCB with all of the RIT's
> supporting components mounted Manhattan style. If you
> are using a cabinet the same size as Jim's prototype,
> it should fit with room to spare.
>
> GL es 72
>
> Howard Kraus, K2UD
> --- Steve White <stever1k@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > Is the R76 potentiometer a pot on the board or is it
> > on the front
> > panel??? I would think that this is on the front
> > panel...Right???
> >
> > Got the first section done and now am laying out the
> > VFO and RIT all
> > in the same location as the original VFO and its a
> > bit tight...So I
> > the hope the pot is on the front panel!
> >
> > Steve NU0P
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
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>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
>
>
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>
>
>
Well guys I did it the hard way then, story of my life...I re-layed out the little section devoted to the vfo and added all the parts for the RIT circuit. I must tell you that I have it layed out but not built yet and it looks real tight. That is today's project so some time tonight I should know if the layout is doable.
Thanks Steve NU0P
----- Original Message -----
From: Lee Mairs
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2003 9:27 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] R76 (1k) in RIT Circuit
Check out the photos on the website. You will find several to explain the
location. It is tough to explain, altho Howard did a pretty good job.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard Kraus" <kaytwoyoudee@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2003 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] R76 (1k) in RIT Circuit
> It's both. The pot is panel mounted, but is also
> soldered to its own piece of PCB with all of the RIT's
> supporting components mounted Manhattan style. If you
> are using a cabinet the same size as Jim's prototype,
> it should fit with room to spare.
>
> GL es 72
>
> Howard Kraus, K2UD
> --- Steve White <stever1k@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > Is the R76 potentiometer a pot on the board or is it
> > on the front
> > panel??? I would think that this is on the front
> > panel...Right???
> >
> > Got the first section done and now am laying out the
> > VFO and RIT all
> > in the same location as the original VFO and its a
> > bit tight...So I
> > the hope the pot is on the front panel!
> >
> > Steve NU0P
> >
> >
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Well, I have the VFO built but not working yet. At least I have
something to trouble shoot and I call that progress. I do not have
my varactors yet so I left it and put power to the circuit and no
oscillation. I the stuck in a 100pf cap where the varactor goes and
not oscillation either. The zener is not in yet either or the 10turn
but I didnt think I needed them to get an oscillation. 12vdc is
being applied to the vcc pads. So perhaps this week the rest of the
critical parts will show up and I can get back at it again over the
next week end.
Steve NU0P
|
2653|2653|2003-12-09 22:53:43|Steve White|VFO is working|I have got the vfo working now and it is putting out just about 4v p-
p on my scope. I wonder if this is adequate and what should the
tunning range be for the vfo??? Nice clean looking signal too..
Still wating on a few parts but they have been shipped and are in the
hands of UPS and should be here by Friday.
Steve NU0P
|
2654|2654|2003-12-09 23:02:58|Steve White|Alignment|Is there a posting someplace on aligning the 2n2/40??? I do not
recall seeing one anywhere and hopefully I will be getting to that
stage pretty soon. BTW I found the tuning range for the vfo 2.085-
2.185 so don't need that info but do want to know that my output of
4v p-p is ok..
Steve NU0P
|
2655|2655|2003-12-10 12:11:56|Steve White|Toroid Installation Question|I am trying to make sure that I install and wind the toroids properly
the first time, and have a question regarding installation. Can I
assume that the primary is ALWAYS on the left side of the toroid
symbol so that when it says 16t primary and 8t secondary that the
primary is on the left in in the schematic. An example of my
question is the vfo amp tuned circuit (T5), I assumed that the the
330pf cap is across the primary which is 16t and the secondary is the
8t and goes to T4 at the output of the mixer. Is this correct?
Steve NU0P
|
2656|2654|2003-12-11 10:35:26|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Alignment|At 04:02 AM 12/10/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>Is there a posting someplace on aligning the 2n2/40???
Yes, there is a document on the Yahoo site that I wrote concerning
the alignment of the receiver. I don't remember the exact link
as I write this, but it is there, and I'll go looking for it
later today and update the post if you haven't found it by
then.
> I do not
>recall seeing one anywhere and hopefully I will be getting to that
>stage pretty soon.
Sounds like you're making good progress Steve.
> BTW I found the tuning range for the vfo 2.085-
>2.185 so don't need that info
Yup....that's the correct range.
>but do want to know that my output of
>4v p-p is ok..
That sounds about right too....... It will drop when it is driving
the receiver DBM, as that has a somewhat low LO port impedance.
72 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:59 PM 12/10/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>I am trying to make sure that I install and wind the toroids properly
>the first time, and have a question regarding installation. Can I
>assume that the primary is ALWAYS on the left side of the toroid
>symbol so that when it says 16t primary and 8t secondary that the
>primary is on the left in in the schematic.
In general yes, but I'm not sure that is a hard and fast rule. However,
all of the transformers use a designator like 16TP-8TS/CoreType to
show the winding information, and that designator matches that way the
transformer is wired into the circuit, so I don't think there is
anything left to chance, unless I'm not seeing something you are.
> An example of my
>question is the vfo amp tuned circuit (T5), I assumed that the the
>330pf cap is across the primary which is 16t
Yes.....
>and the secondary is the
>8t and goes to T4 at the output of the mixer.
Yes.....
> Is this correct?
Yes......
You have it! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Steve,
Here is the URL for the alignment procedure.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/files/ Go down to the file named 2N240+Filter-LOSetup.pdf
and open it.
This procedure doesn't speak to peaking the trimmers
in the front-end of the rig, that's probably obvious
to all; peak TC1 and TC2 for maximum audio.
Hope this helps you and other who might be building the
rig.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Jim
All of your help has made this experience a lot more fun. I got the last of my parts in today and have most of next week off and will not have to go back to work until January so I should be able to make some good progress and have this unit done by Christmas. Got all your emails and have made a copy of the alignment insturctions.
Steve NU0P
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
At 04:59 PM 12/10/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>I am trying to make sure that I install and wind the toroids properly
>the first time, and have a question regarding installation. Can I
>assume that the primary is ALWAYS on the left side of the toroid
>symbol so that when it says 16t primary and 8t secondary that the
>primary is on the left in in the schematic.
In general yes, but I'm not sure that is a hard and fast rule. However,
all of the transformers use a designator like 16TP-8TS/CoreType to
show the winding information, and that designator matches that way the
transformer is wired into the circuit, so I don't think there is
anything left to chance, unless I'm not seeing something you are.
> An example of my
>question is the vfo amp tuned circuit (T5), I assumed that the the
>330pf cap is across the primary which is 16t
Yes.....
>and the secondary is the
>8t and goes to T4 at the output of the mixer.
Yes.....
> Is this correct?
Yes......
You have it! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
My rig arrived, and I picked it up this morning. Now I only wish that I'd
bought some gear to put it on the air. I'll have to wait until the 23rd
when I go back to WBGV.
Thanks again for your help.
73 de Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "k8iqy" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 11:05 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2/40+ LO Alignment
> Steve,
>
> Here is the URL for the alignment procedure.
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/files/
>
> Go down to the file named 2N240+Filter-LOSetup.pdf
> and open it.
>
> This procedure doesn't speak to peaking the trimmers
> in the front-end of the rig, that's probably obvious
> to all; peak TC1 and TC2 for maximum audio.
>
> Hope this helps you and other who might be building the
> rig.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Jim
I just sent you some pix of the vfo output to your prodigy address.
Hope that these pix explain my concern.
Steve
|
2662|2658|2003-12-13 12:15:16|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N2/40+ LO Alignment|At 10:39 PM 12/12/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>My rig arrived, and I picked it up this morning.
Hopefully safely. I check the FedEx web site yesterday and
knew it had arrived.
> Now I only wish that I'd
>bought some gear to put it on the air.
Yes, that would have been a good plan.
> I'll have to wait until the 23rd
>when I go back to WBGV.
>
>Thanks again for your help.
Happy to do it. Sorry again it took so long.
72 and be yakking with you,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:54 PM 12/13/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim
>
>I just sent you some pix of the vfo output to your prodigy address.
>Hope that these pix explain my concern.
>
>Steve
They look fine. I've sent a detailed response off of the reflector.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Remember to keep all of us informed as to progress. That is half the fun of
having built one of these wonderful radios!
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2003 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
> Thanks Jim
>
> All of your help has made this experience a lot more fun. I got the last
of my parts in today and have most of next week off and will not have to go
back to work until January so I should be able to make some good progress
and have this unit done by Christmas. Got all your emails and have made a
copy of the alignment insturctions.
>
> Steve NU0P
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 9:42 AM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
>
>
> At 04:59 PM 12/10/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >I am trying to make sure that I install and wind the toroids properly
> >the first time, and have a question regarding installation. Can I
> >assume that the primary is ALWAYS on the left side of the toroid
> >symbol so that when it says 16t primary and 8t secondary that the
> >primary is on the left in in the schematic.
>
> In general yes, but I'm not sure that is a hard and fast rule. However,
> all of the transformers use a designator like 16TP-8TS/CoreType to
> show the winding information, and that designator matches that way the
> transformer is wired into the circuit, so I don't think there is
> anything left to chance, unless I'm not seeing something you are.
>
> > An example of my
> >question is the vfo amp tuned circuit (T5), I assumed that the the
> >330pf cap is across the primary which is 16t
>
> Yes.....
>
> >and the secondary is the
> >8t and goes to T4 at the output of the mixer.
>
> Yes.....
>
> > Is this correct?
>
> Yes......
>
> You have it! :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Lee
Your right about that. It is more fun to share the trials and tribulations and besides that I can count on help when I need it. Right now just playing a bit in the 10M contest (3 q's) and winding toroids for the front end of the radio. Hope to have that all done tomorrow or this evening. Need to figure out the best way to match up some diodes still.
Steve NU0P
----- Original Message -----
From: Lee Mairs
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
Remember to keep all of us informed as to progress. That is half the fun of
having built one of these wonderful radios!
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2003 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
> Thanks Jim
>
> All of your help has made this experience a lot more fun. I got the last
of my parts in today and have most of next week off and will not have to go
back to work until January so I should be able to make some good progress
and have this unit done by Christmas. Got all your emails and have made a
copy of the alignment insturctions.
>
> Steve NU0P
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 9:42 AM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
>
>
> At 04:59 PM 12/10/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >I am trying to make sure that I install and wind the toroids properly
> >the first time, and have a question regarding installation. Can I
> >assume that the primary is ALWAYS on the left side of the toroid
> >symbol so that when it says 16t primary and 8t secondary that the
> >primary is on the left in in the schematic.
>
> In general yes, but I'm not sure that is a hard and fast rule. However,
> all of the transformers use a designator like 16TP-8TS/CoreType to
> show the winding information, and that designator matches that way the
> transformer is wired into the circuit, so I don't think there is
> anything left to chance, unless I'm not seeing something you are.
>
> > An example of my
> >question is the vfo amp tuned circuit (T5), I assumed that the the
> >330pf cap is across the primary which is 16t
>
> Yes.....
>
> >and the secondary is the
> >8t and goes to T4 at the output of the mixer.
>
> Yes.....
>
> > Is this correct?
>
> Yes......
>
> You have it! :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
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>
>
>
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I sure hope you got some multi-colored wire for those DBM toroids... That
was the source of my biggest mistakes building the 2N2-40.
72 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
> Lee
>
> Your right about that. It is more fun to share the trials and
tribulations and besides that I can count on help when I need it. Right now
just playing a bit in the 10M contest (3 q's) and winding toroids for the
front end of the radio. Hope to have that all done tomorrow or this
evening. Need to figure out the best way to match up some diodes still.
>
> Steve NU0P
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Lee Mairs
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 4:51 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
>
>
> Remember to keep all of us informed as to progress. That is half the
fun of
> having built one of these wonderful radios!
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY/8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, December 12, 2003 7:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
>
>
> > Thanks Jim
> >
> > All of your help has made this experience a lot more fun. I got the
last
> of my parts in today and have most of next week off and will not have to
go
> back to work until January so I should be able to make some good
progress
> and have this unit done by Christmas. Got all your emails and have made
a
> copy of the alignment insturctions.
> >
> > Steve NU0P
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 9:42 AM
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
> >
> >
> > At 04:59 PM 12/10/2003 +0000, you wrote:
> >
> > >I am trying to make sure that I install and wind the toroids
properly
> > >the first time, and have a question regarding installation. Can I
> > >assume that the primary is ALWAYS on the left side of the toroid
> > >symbol so that when it says 16t primary and 8t secondary that the
> > >primary is on the left in in the schematic.
> >
> > In general yes, but I'm not sure that is a hard and fast rule.
However,
> > all of the transformers use a designator like 16TP-8TS/CoreType to
> > show the winding information, and that designator matches that way
the
> > transformer is wired into the circuit, so I don't think there is
> > anything left to chance, unless I'm not seeing something you are.
> >
> > > An example of my
> > >question is the vfo amp tuned circuit (T5), I assumed that the the
> > >330pf cap is across the primary which is 16t
> >
> > Yes.....
> >
> > >and the secondary is the
> > >8t and goes to T4 at the output of the mixer.
> >
> > Yes.....
> >
> > > Is this correct?
> >
> > Yes......
> >
> > You have it! :-)
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
>
>
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>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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>
>
At 04:57 PM 12/13/2003 -0600, Steve, N0UP wrote:
>Need to figure out the best way to match up some diodes still.
>
>Steve NU0P
I can answer that quickly. If you have a good DMM that has a diode
check position, measure a bunch of 1N4148 diodes in the forward
direction. Choose the 4 with the closest reading. If you don't have
a DMM with diode checking, build a quick test circuit that has a
1.5K resistor from a 12 volt power supply to the diode under test,
with the diode being forward biased. Measure the drop across the
diode, and keep doing that with diodes until you have 4 that are
matched within 1 millivolt. Use those for the receiver DBM.
+---------1.5K---------o-------o
| |
12V Diode DVM
| |
-----------------------o-------o
Use this circuit! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Lee
I have two colors of wire Green and Red so am in good shape. I wound these little guys before and was sure to get colors cause I understand the problem. Back to winding..
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Lee Mairs
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
I sure hope you got some multi-colored wire for those DBM toroids... That
was the source of my biggest mistakes building the 2N2-40.
72 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
> Lee
>
> Your right about that. It is more fun to share the trials and
tribulations and besides that I can count on help when I need it. Right now
just playing a bit in the 10M contest (3 q's) and winding toroids for the
front end of the radio. Hope to have that all done tomorrow or this
evening. Need to figure out the best way to match up some diodes still.
>
> Steve NU0P
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Lee Mairs
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 4:51 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
>
>
> Remember to keep all of us informed as to progress. That is half the
fun of
> having built one of these wonderful radios!
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY/8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, December 12, 2003 7:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
>
>
> > Thanks Jim
> >
> > All of your help has made this experience a lot more fun. I got the
last
> of my parts in today and have most of next week off and will not have to
go
> back to work until January so I should be able to make some good
progress
> and have this unit done by Christmas. Got all your emails and have made
a
> copy of the alignment insturctions.
> >
> > Steve NU0P
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 9:42 AM
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Toroid Installation Question
> >
> >
> > At 04:59 PM 12/10/2003 +0000, you wrote:
> >
> > >I am trying to make sure that I install and wind the toroids
properly
> > >the first time, and have a question regarding installation. Can I
> > >assume that the primary is ALWAYS on the left side of the toroid
> > >symbol so that when it says 16t primary and 8t secondary that the
> > >primary is on the left in in the schematic.
> >
> > In general yes, but I'm not sure that is a hard and fast rule.
However,
> > all of the transformers use a designator like 16TP-8TS/CoreType to
> > show the winding information, and that designator matches that way
the
> > transformer is wired into the circuit, so I don't think there is
> > anything left to chance, unless I'm not seeing something you are.
> >
> > > An example of my
> > >question is the vfo amp tuned circuit (T5), I assumed that the the
> > >330pf cap is across the primary which is 16t
> >
> > Yes.....
> >
> > >and the secondary is the
> > >8t and goes to T4 at the output of the mixer.
> >
> > Yes.....
> >
> > > Is this correct?
> >
> > Yes......
> >
> > You have it! :-)
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
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>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Another question for everyone. I am winding T6 and notice that the
dots on the primary and secondary are not both at the top or bottom
but primary is on the bottom and the secondary is on top. I have
looked at the information on the site on winding T-6 but it shows how
to wind the secondary and makes no mention of the primary. So the
question I have is the 1 turn primary wound in the same direction as
the secondary or does the dot on the bottom mean that it is wound in
the opposite direction???
Steve
|
2670|2655|2003-12-13 23:02:32|Steve Smith|Re: Diode Matching|FWIW,
When I matched the hundreds of diodes for the original 2N2-40 group buy I
noticed that initially the resistance reading tended to drift for a while
(seconds) then settled down. I used the series resistor, regulated power
supply and DMM method. I don't know if this is due to junction heating
or what but it's something to watch for.
73.......Steve Smith, WB6TNL
Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
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|
2671|2669|2003-12-14 10:35:47|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Dots on the toroid schematic???|At 03:07 AM 12/14/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>Another question for everyone. I am winding T6 and notice that the
>dots on the primary and secondary are not both at the top or bottom
>but primary is on the bottom and the secondary is on top. I have
>looked at the information on the site on winding T-6 but it shows how
>to wind the secondary and makes no mention of the primary. So the
>question I have is the 1 turn primary wound in the same direction as
>the secondary or does the dot on the bottom mean that it is wound in
>the opposite direction???
Steve,
The "dots" represent the "start" of the winding, to properly show
how the winding are phased for correct operation. Getting the 1 turn
winding correct is critical to the amplifier amplifying, and not
oscillating. Once you build the amplifier, if it isn't amplifying,
you have the one turn winding incorrectly phased with respect to
the other two windings. Interchange the leads and the amplifier will
quit oscillating, and begin amplifying. The 4/11 turn secondary
winding is actually a sigle winding, but with a tap a 4 turns.
Hope the above all makes sense. If not, I'll try to describe it
again using a different approach.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 08:01 PM 12/13/2003 -0800, Steve Smith, WB6TNL wrote:
>FWIW,
>
>When I matched the hundreds of diodes for the original 2N2-40 group buy I
>noticed that initially the resistance reading tended to drift for a while
>(seconds) then settled down. I used the series resistor, regulated power
>supply and DMM method. I don't know if this is due to junction heating
>or what but it's something to watch for.
Indeed, it is junction heating. Kind of amazing that we can
actually see the effects of that happening, since the current
is not very high, and the power dissipation is quite small.
But then, one can see the effects of touching a crystal that is
oscillating if you put a good counter on the oscillator the
crystal is in. A one second touch with a finger will move the
crystal frequency many hertz.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Since DBM's are lossy why do we use silicon diodes instead of germanium diodes. Wouldn't we see less loss with germanium??
Have all the toroids wound for the frontend and all but the last one installed. These toroids are time consuming to build. I am about ready now to populate the front end with the rest of the parts and then can give it a try.
Do I want to connect the vfo to the DBM with coax or does it not matter??
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Diode Matching
At 08:01 PM 12/13/2003 -0800, Steve Smith, WB6TNL wrote:
>FWIW,
>
>When I matched the hundreds of diodes for the original 2N2-40 group buy I
>noticed that initially the resistance reading tended to drift for a while
>(seconds) then settled down. I used the series resistor, regulated power
>supply and DMM method. I don't know if this is due to junction heating
>or what but it's something to watch for.
Indeed, it is junction heating. Kind of amazing that we can
actually see the effects of that happening, since the current
is not very high, and the power dissipation is quite small.
But then, one can see the effects of touching a crystal that is
oscillating if you put a good counter on the oscillator the
crystal is in. A one second touch with a finger will move the
crystal frequency many hertz.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 12:22 PM 12/14/2003 -0600, Steve wrote:
>Since DBM's are lossy why do we use silicon diodes instead of germanium
>diodes. Wouldn't we see less loss with germanium??
Yes, germanium would be a better choice if they are speced for
operation at 5 MHz and you have some. Better yet, are Hot Carrier
diodes (many HP varieties are useable) and offer even better sensitivity.
I originally chose the 1N4148 because they were plentiful and cheap.
Besides, the sensitivity of the rig is far better than the band noise
on 40 meters requires, so really no need to use anything any better
in reality.
>Have all the toroids wound for the frontend and all but the last one
>installed. These toroids are time consuming to build.
A bit, but you get faster at winding them as you gain experience. I
find mounting them to take more time than winding one now.
> I am about ready now to populate the front end with the rest of the
> parts and then can give it a try.
Sounds good.......
>Do I want to connect the vfo to the DBM with coax or does it not matter??
If it is a short run, less than 1 inch, don't bother.
72 and keep us posted Steve. I'm gettin' excited!! :-)
Jim, K8IQY
I got the RF Front end working this morning at 4:45 CST. Gads up all
night on this project....I had one construcion error and after I
fixed that I could hear my signal generator on my Yaesu at 4.915Mhz
So at least the Front and Mixer are doing there job!!!!YEA !! Now on
to the IF etc..
Steve NU0P
|
2676|2675|2003-12-15 09:45:48|Lee Mairs|Re: This could be habit forming|A 2N2-40 is definitely a monstrous time sink! But great fun eh? Once you
get by the trifilars in the front end, the rest is down hill. If I remember
correctly, I built a section a night. Wait until you get to hear 40 meter
CW with your station receiver tuned to the 2N2-40's if frequency. What a
rush that was...
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve White" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 5:52 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] This could be habit forming
> I got the RF Front end working this morning at 4:45 CST. Gads up all
> night on this project....I had one construcion error and after I
> fixed that I could hear my signal generator on my Yaesu at 4.915Mhz
> So at least the Front and Mixer are doing there job!!!!YEA !! Now on
> to the IF etc..
>
> Steve NU0P
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Lee
I have not heard any CW yet but should be able to by the end of the day. I heard my signal generator and that is good step forward. I wonder if any one has done and sensitivity measurements on this radio?\
Sure is fun bringing this puppy up. I need to start thinking about the case for it.
Steve NU0P
----- Original Message -----
From: Lee Mairs
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] This could be habit forming
A 2N2-40 is definitely a monstrous time sink! But great fun eh? Once you
get by the trifilars in the front end, the rest is down hill. If I remember
correctly, I built a section a night. Wait until you get to hear 40 meter
CW with your station receiver tuned to the 2N2-40's if frequency. What a
rush that was...
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve White" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 5:52 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] This could be habit forming
> I got the RF Front end working this morning at 4:45 CST. Gads up all
> night on this project....I had one construcion error and after I
> fixed that I could hear my signal generator on my Yaesu at 4.915Mhz
> So at least the Front and Mixer are doing there job!!!!YEA !! Now on
> to the IF etc..
>
> Steve NU0P
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 11:21 AM 12/15/2003 -0600, Steve NU0P wrote:
>Lee
>
>I have not heard any CW yet but should be able to by the end of the
>day. I heard my signal generator and that is good step forward.
Agreed, especially if the generator is running at a low level.
> I wonder if any one has done and sensitivity measurements on this radio?\
Of course we have. I just measured Lee's rig at -121 dBm, and mine
checks out at -128 dBm. Not too shabby for a few of bucks worth of
parts! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim/Lee
The signal generator is an old URM-25 and the ouput level was about 2--5 microvolts I would say. It has not been calibrated in years and years and years. But on the meter is read about 3 microvolts or so and I could hear it just barely in the MP-1000. Of course when I turned up the signal it came up very nicely in the MP. So think I must have made the toroids correctly. I just ran the output of the DBM right into some 75 ohm coax and ran it into the Rx. I didnt put any resistive load across the output of the DBM transformer. So am hoping this is nominal, I think I have one two many turns on a couple of the transformers on T-6. I know I did on the secondary of T-2 and corrected that. So I hope I have T-6 done correctly, can play with that later.
Steve NU0P
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] This could be habit forming
At 11:21 AM 12/15/2003 -0600, Steve NU0P wrote:
>Lee
>
>I have not heard any CW yet but should be able to by the end of the
>day. I heard my signal generator and that is good step forward.
Agreed, especially if the generator is running at a low level.
> I wonder if any one has done and sensitivity measurements on this radio?\
Of course we have. I just measured Lee's rig at -121 dBm, and mine
checks out at -128 dBm. Not too shabby for a few of bucks worth of
parts! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Well am now matching crystals for the filter. I used a colpitts
oscillator with 1000pf caps with a common emitter follower to
insulate the oscillator from the counter and it all seems to work
just fine.
I have two batchs of crystals. One set came from digi-key and the
other from ocean state and both sets are marked as 4.9152 Mhz. Now
for the strange part.
The Ocean State crystals all measure in the 4.9152 region but the
Digi-Key parts measure in the 4.9136 region. I would like to use
the Digi-Key parts since they have leads that are long enough to fit
onto my board layout. The Ocean State units have much shorter leads
and I would have to move a bunch of pads.
Why am I seeing such variation in the two lots? Do I care if the IF
filter is at the lower freq of 4.9136??
Steve
|
2681|2681|2003-12-16 22:33:28|stever1k@hotmail.com|MV2115 vs MV1662 Changes to Schematic|Jim
I am using the MV2115 instead of the MV1662 since I happened to find
them and I new they were used in the original. It seems to me there
was a change to the schematic when the MV2115's became obsolete and I
have misplaced that schematic. As I recall there were 100Pf caps in
parallel with the MV2115's and no LED's which are used for voltage
regulation. I think with the MV2115 the pot wiper just went to the
MV2115 via a 100K resistor. The pot High side was connected directly
to Vcc and the cold end to ground.
I made these notes on the newer schematic but want to make sure they
are correct.
Would you have a copy of the older schematic that you could post?
Steve
|
2682|2680|2003-12-17 17:31:40|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Crystal Matching !!|At 10:11 PM 12/16/2003 +0000, Steve wrote:
>Well am now matching crystals for the filter. I used a colpitts
>oscillator with 1000pf caps with a common emitter follower to
>insulate the oscillator from the counter and it all seems to work
>just fine.
Not the best way of matching crystals, but it will suffice
without having to use a more sophisticated approach.
>
>I have two batchs of crystals. One set came from digi-key and the
>other from ocean state and both sets are marked as 4.9152 Mhz. Now
>for the strange part.
>
>The Ocean State crystals all measure in the 4.9152 region but the
>Digi-Key parts measure in the 4.9136 region. I would like to use
>the Digi-Key parts since they have leads that are long enough to fit
>onto my board layout. The Ocean State units have much shorter leads
>and I would have to move a bunch of pads.
>
>Why am I seeing such variation in the two lots?
Could be from a variety of reasons. One set may be designed
to operate as "series" elements, and the other with a fixed
capacitance load, or they both might be designed for fixed
capacitance loads, but not the same, i.e. 20pF versus 32pF.
> Do I care if the IF
>filter is at the lower freq of 4.9136??
Not at all. Just use crystals of the same type for the two
LO oscillators also. You'll have to move your VFO frequency range
slightly also to compensate, but that's not a big deal.
72 and keep building......
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:33 AM 12/17/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim
Greetings Steve,
>I am using the MV2115 instead of the MV1662 since I happened to find
>them and I new they were used in the original.
Yes, that's correct.
> It seems to me there
>was a change to the schematic when the MV2115's became obsolete and I
>have misplaced that schematic. As I recall there were 100Pf caps in
>parallel with the MV2115's and no LED's which are used for voltage
>regulation.
That's essentially it. I think there was also a change in the
collector resistor of the post mixer amp to for the later filter
configuration.
> I think with the MV2115 the pot wiper just went to the
>MV2115 via a 100K resistor.
Yes, that also correct.
> The pot High side was connected directly
>to Vcc and the cold end to ground.
Not quite, the cold end went to a 1N4004 diode
>I made these notes on the newer schematic but want to make sure they
>are correct.
>
>Would you have a copy of the older schematic that you could post?
Yes I do. I'll try to get that posted tonight. I'll only put up
the first two pages showing the VFO details and the crystal filter
details.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Jim, I got both of them now and can finish that part although
I am just starting the Audio Amp.
Steve
|
2687|2687|2003-12-23 10:55:45|Steve White|Waveforms on Board|Jim
There are two sets of scope shots up on the board and am wondering
what the difference is between them.
1. 2N240 +Rx Waveforms -30dBm
2. 2N240 +Rx Waveforms (2W Tx Input)
These appear to be the same from a quick look. Which should I use
for trouble shooting and what are the differences between them?
I have the receiver all built and have only one more section to
complete but want to check out the receiver now and make sure it is
working 100% before I finish the last section of the radio.
Steve NU0P
|
2688|2687|2003-12-23 14:04:27|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Waveforms on Board|At 03:55 PM 12/23/2003 +0000, Steve, NU0P wrote:
>Jim
>
>There are two sets of scope shots up on the board and am wondering
>what the difference is between them.
>
>1. 2N240 +Rx Waveforms -30dBm
These waveforms were taken with an input signal of -30dBm (1 microwatt)
from the signal generator. At this input, none of the receiver stages
is overloaded, and I could get decent waveform information.
>2. 2N240 +Rx Waveforms (2W Tx Input)
These were taken with the transmitter putting out 2 watts into
a dummy load. With these conditions, the receiver input is
driven with much higher signal levels, and some stages might
be into overload. The design of this transceiver is such
that the receiver section is running all of the time, although
there is audio muting, and front-end protection, but the receiver
is listening to the transmit signal for sidetone.
>These appear to be the same from a quick look.
But with a detailed look they are markedly different in places.
> Which should I use
>for trouble shooting and what are the differences between them?
The -30 dBm set.
>I have the receiver all built and have only one more section to
>complete but want to check out the receiver now and make sure it is
>working 100% before I finish the last section of the radio.
Wow.....you've been making good progress. Hope the above
discussion helps.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim
Yes, I am making pretty good progress and have started working on the
case a bit while I figure out my rx problem. Seems that the
sensitivity is not what it should be by a long shot. So need to do
some trouble shooting. But I can get a demodulated signal out to the
speaker, so that is a good start.
Not famaliar with your reference to "ports" in the scope pictures.
Is Port "A" the same as the junction of TC-9,L9 and C67? This would
match up to the schematic Location "A". I would assume that is what
this is and the same would go for Port B (T1 pin 1. Is my thinking
correct?
On the scope pictures that say "VFO Off" do you mean that it is
disconnected from the mixer input or is connected and you just remove
Vcc from the VFO?
Steve NU0P
|
2690|2689|2003-12-24 13:08:26|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Ports and other questions?|At 12:29 AM 12/24/2003 +0000, Steve, NU0P wrote:
>Jim
>
>Yes, I am making pretty good progress and have started working on the
>case a bit while I figure out my rx problem. Seems that the
>sensitivity is not what it should be by a long shot. So need to do
>some trouble shooting. But I can get a demodulated signal out to the
>speaker, so that is a good start.
It may be that the Rx local oscillator is way off of the required
part of the crystal filter slope to allow the receiver to hear
well. If the LO frequency is located way down the filter slope,
at the point where you can hear signals will be severely
attenuated by the filter. Read the Rx alignment procedure again
and look at the pictures, and the above may make some sense.
>Not famaliar with your reference to "ports" in the scope pictures.
>Is Port "A" the same as the junction of TC-9,L9 and C67? This would
>match up to the schematic Location "A".
Yes, Port A is the "A" designator on the schematic that has the
pointy box around it. The "pointy" part of the box shows which
direction the signal path is.
> I would assume that is what
>this is and the same would go for Port B (T1 pin 1. Is my thinking
>correct?
Indeed!!
>On the scope pictures that say "VFO Off" do you mean that it is
>disconnected from the mixer input or is connected and you just remove
>Vcc from the VFO?
It is with the VFO not running. Shutting down the VFO or a LO
is easily accomplished by grounding the base of the appropriate
transistor with a test clip. Shorting out the base stops the oscillator,
and doesn't affect anything else. and the DC bias resistors just
pass a tad bit more current. To stop the VFO, you would ground the
base of Q1. When you try to measure the output of the RF Amplifier,
for instance, it is difficult to do with the VFO running, as some signal
is passed through the DBM and shows up on the output of the RF Amp. Killing
the VFO removes the DBM drive, and lets you get a good measurement.
Keep us posted on your findings as you troubleshoot the rig.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim
I have the receiver all done now and am having some sensitivity
troubles.
I can hear signals with an antenna connected but very weakly. If I
run a 4.915Mhz sig 1uV into Port C (Mixer Amp) I get lots of audio
just fine so I think I am all OK beyond that point.
I have noticed that the RF Amp 2N2222 runs warm. In my case it is a
metal case 2N2222 so am not at all sure that is proper. I am not
sure at all that all the coils are wound correctly especially T6,
T3,T4. I have a 475 scope and a 10:1 probe so I think that I should
be able to see the scope patterns as you have them in the files
section but am unable to duplicate T1 pin 4 and T2 pin 4 for some
reason. I assume that the RX front end is tuned to 7.050 and when I
place the scope probe on T2 pin 4 that I should see something like
16mV p-p with a 20 Mv input at the antenna input but I sure don't see
that. Does the 10:1 probe load things down too much to??
I feel good about having the 1T primary on T6 correct since if I hook
it up in the opposite sense I get a loud screech out of the speaker.
And of course can see the oscillations with the scope.
I do not see much gain at all through the RF Amp and if you were to
ask me I would say that the input looks just about the same aplituted
as the output of the RF Amp.
All of my references are to your new set of schematics that you put
up on the board a couple of weeks ago.
I am using 1N4448 diodes instead of the 1N4148 but there specs looked
close enough to me so I used what I had on hand. Your thoughts on
this subsitution??
Steve
|
2692|2692|2003-12-28 19:41:59|Steve White|BTW am using AA0ZZ layout|Hope that there are no errors in that layout dated 3-30-02.
steve
|
2693|2692|2003-12-29 07:06:18|Jeff Noel|Re: BTW am using AA0ZZ layout|Where can the AA0ZZ layout be located?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2694|2692|2003-12-29 08:49:38|Steve White|Re: BTW am using AA0ZZ layout|--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Noel"
wrote:
> Where can the AA0ZZ layout be located?
Just look in the files section of this board and you will find
schematics and layouts..
Steve NU0P
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 12:41 AM 12/29/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>Hope that there are no errors in that layout dated 3-30-02.
>
>steve
I don't think there are, but I haven't checked Craigs layout
that you are using. I can only vouch for what I do, and
sometimes, I screw things up a little. :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 12:39 AM 12/29/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim
>
>I have the receiver all done now and am having some sensitivity
>troubles.
>
>I can hear signals with an antenna connected but very weakly. If I
>run a 4.915Mhz sig 1uV into Port C (Mixer Amp) I get lots of audio
>just fine so I think I am all OK beyond that point.
Yes, that sound encouraging.
>I have noticed that the RF Amp 2N2222 runs warm.
It should! The transistor is dissipating a fair amount of
power.
> In my case it is a
>metal case 2N2222 so am not at all sure that is proper.
No, it sounds OK to me.
> I am not
>sure at all that all the coils are wound correctly especially T6,
>T3,T4.
Well that could be a problem. Those have to be correct for the
rig to work properly.
> I have a 475 scope and a 10:1 probe so I think that I should
>be able to see the scope patterns as you have them in the files
>section but am unable to duplicate T1 pin 4 and T2 pin 4 for some
>reason.
Are you seeing two peaks as you adjust TC1 and TC2? If not, those
two tuned circuits are not peaking correctly. Also, if you drive the
input with too high of a signal, the diodes in the Rx T/R Switch,
C27 and D28 will start to conduct, screwing up your readings. Those
diodes are at a higher impedance, about 500 ohms, so the voltages across
the diodes are roughly 10 times the voltages coming into port A, and
leaving port B with the RF gain fully up.
> I assume that the RX front end is tuned to 7.050
Don't assume that for your receiver. If you can't see the
peaks when TC1 and TC2 go through a full rotation, then the
input isn't peaking.
> and when I
>place the scope probe on T2 pin 4 that I should see something like
>16mV p-p with a 20 Mv input at the antenna input but I sure don't see
>that.
With 20 mv at the antenna input, the Rx T/R switch diodes will be starting
to conduct a bit.
> Does the 10:1 probe load things down too much to??
No, in fact, the contrary. They provide higher impedance at 10X than
they would at 1X. At 10X, they should look like 1 Meg to the circuitry
being probed.
>I feel good about having the 1T primary on T6 correct since if I hook
>it up in the opposite sense I get a loud screech out of the speaker.
>And of course can see the oscillations with the scope.
OK....sounds like the RF Amp transformer is phased correctly.
But you need to make sure you have T6 wound and connected properly
too for it to provide the 12 dB of gain that it is designed to provide.
>I do not see much gain at all through the RF Amp and if you were to
>ask me I would say that the input looks just about the same aplituted
>as the output of the RF Amp.
No, that doesn't sound right. You should see a sizeable gain.
I've measure that amp outside of the rig as a breadboard, and
it runs exactly 12 dB of gain if it is driven with 50 ohms and
terminated with 50 ohms.
>All of my references are to your new set of schematics that you put
>up on the board a couple of weeks ago.
OK...that's good.
>I am using 1N4448 diodes instead of the 1N4148 but there specs looked
>close enough to me so I used what I had on hand.
I doubt those are the problem. I'm guessing the problem is
with T6 as you stated earlier, or with the T3/T4 transformers
or the wiring with the diodes, unless the drive to the DBM
is way too low, or you don't have the Rx Local Oscillator set
correctly. Not having that on the correct part of the crystal
filter slope will make the receiver almost deaf.
Sounds like the receiver is close, but something not quite
correct. Look it over more with the comments above in your
head and let us know if you find anything else weird.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim
I can get each of the tuned circuts to peak TC-1,TC-2, and TC-9. Now
I should see only one peak per revolution of the trimmer or should I
see 2 distinct peaks?
Steve
|
2699|2692|2003-12-29 16:48:20|Lee Mairs|Re: BTW am using AA0ZZ layout|Don't worry about following the layout exactly. There are a million ways to
align the parts, and each of them will work as long as you hook it up in
accordance with Jim's schematic. Just make sure that you check the
schematic frequently for each section that you are building. If there are
any errors, they will be quickly resolved by the group here.
GL es 73 de Lee, km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] BTW am using AA0ZZ layout
> At 12:41 AM 12/29/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Hope that there are no errors in that layout dated 3-30-02.
> >
> >steve
>
> I don't think there are, but I haven't checked Craigs layout
> that you are using. I can only vouch for what I do, and
> sometimes, I screw things up a little. :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
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>
At 07:55 PM 12/29/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim
>
>I can get each of the tuned circuts to peak TC-1,TC-2, and TC-9. Now
>I should see only one peak per revolution of the trimmer or should I
>see 2 distinct peaks?
Steve,
You should see two distinct peaks as the trimmer (TC1/2)is rotated through
360 degrees. If you are only seeing one peak, you may have too
much inductance and need to remove a turn or two from each toroid.
OR, you may have too little inductance, and need to add some
capacitance in parallel with each trimmer. Try adding about
47 pF in parallel with each trimmer and see what happens.
If you don't get two peaks with the added capacitance, then you
have too much inductance. Remove a turn at a time and retry
the tuning until you get two peaks that are at least 90 degrees from each
other on the trimmer. Stop taking off turns at that point.
Ditto for TC9, but you'll have to change inductors since L11
is a molded inductor. You could replace it with a toroid too,
and wind on the required turns to make the circuit peak properly.
Are you sure you have the primary and secondaries of T1 and T2
connected properly. If they are reversed, the tuning will
be all screwed up, as the primary of T1 is only 3 turns, and the
secondary of T2 the same, resulting in an inductance value far
too low to resonate with the specified capacitance.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
I will second Jim's suggestion about the toroids being incorrect. It seems
that I found a way to wind every single one incorrectly - and usually more
than once. If you can't find a wiring error after a dozen tries, it is just
about guaranteed to be a toroid winding problem - especially the trifilars.
Are you using multi-colored wire? This was a big help after I borrowed some
from a buddy.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 5:10 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] TC1,2,9 Peaking
> At 07:55 PM 12/29/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Jim
> >
> >I can get each of the tuned circuts to peak TC-1,TC-2, and TC-9. Now
> >I should see only one peak per revolution of the trimmer or should I
> >see 2 distinct peaks?
>
> Steve,
>
> You should see two distinct peaks as the trimmer (TC1/2)is rotated through
> 360 degrees. If you are only seeing one peak, you may have too
> much inductance and need to remove a turn or two from each toroid.
> OR, you may have too little inductance, and need to add some
> capacitance in parallel with each trimmer. Try adding about
> 47 pF in parallel with each trimmer and see what happens.
> If you don't get two peaks with the added capacitance, then you
> have too much inductance. Remove a turn at a time and retry
> the tuning until you get two peaks that are at least 90 degrees from each
> other on the trimmer. Stop taking off turns at that point.
>
> Ditto for TC9, but you'll have to change inductors since L11
> is a molded inductor. You could replace it with a toroid too,
> and wind on the required turns to make the circuit peak properly.
>
> Are you sure you have the primary and secondaries of T1 and T2
> connected properly. If they are reversed, the tuning will
> be all screwed up, as the primary of T1 is only 3 turns, and the
> secondary of T2 the same, resulting in an inductance value far
> too low to resonate with the specified capacitance.
>
> 72 and GL,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
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>
>
Hi Guys,
I just saw a couple of questions regarding the 2N2-40 layout that I
did a while back. A couple of comments are in order. Yes, it was
correct and complete at the time and I did build a successful radio
using this layout. However, it was not updated to include Jim's
latest modifications. In particular, mine did not have Jim's
improved TR switch. (Mine used only 2N2222's throughout.) If you use
the layout, make sure you look at the companion schematic that I
posted to see what it really is. An update to use Jim's latest TR
switch will make the radio more fun to use. Have fun building this
great radio. Jim taught me a LOT when I did mine.
72,
Craig, AZ0ZZ
|
2703|2698|2003-12-30 01:52:17|Steve|Re: TC1,2,9 Peaking|I am making progress, I had always seen two peaks on each of the trimmers so think I have those correct. I found several problems in the audio Preamp...used a .2 inplace of a .02 across the base collector in the preamp and then used a couple of .01's instead of the .1 uf caps at the output of the product detector so things are sounding better and better all the time. Now to just get my sensitivey where I like it and make sure I have rx LO in the right spot and I can then continue and finish the PA and get it in the box. I have procurred a freq counter with a programmable offeset to add to the unit and want to add an s-meter as well so am researching S-meter amp circuits. Could do with a bit of AGC as well but don't have the foggiest on how to add that.
Tomorrow should be a good day!!
Steve NU0P
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 4:10 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] TC1,2,9 Peaking
At 07:55 PM 12/29/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim
>
>I can get each of the tuned circuts to peak TC-1,TC-2, and TC-9. Now
>I should see only one peak per revolution of the trimmer or should I
>see 2 distinct peaks?
Steve,
You should see two distinct peaks as the trimmer (TC1/2)is rotated through
360 degrees. If you are only seeing one peak, you may have too
much inductance and need to remove a turn or two from each toroid.
OR, you may have too little inductance, and need to add some
capacitance in parallel with each trimmer. Try adding about
47 pF in parallel with each trimmer and see what happens.
If you don't get two peaks with the added capacitance, then you
have too much inductance. Remove a turn at a time and retry
the tuning until you get two peaks that are at least 90 degrees from each
other on the trimmer. Stop taking off turns at that point.
Ditto for TC9, but you'll have to change inductors since L11
is a molded inductor. You could replace it with a toroid too,
and wind on the required turns to make the circuit peak properly.
Are you sure you have the primary and secondaries of T1 and T2
connected properly. If they are reversed, the tuning will
be all screwed up, as the primary of T1 is only 3 turns, and the
secondary of T2 the same, resulting in an inductance value far
too low to resonate with the specified capacitance.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
All
Got my sensitivity where it belongs. I can turn down my signal
generator to little bitty about .25 uV and can hear it just fine
now. So the problem was in the audio amp chain not anywhere else.
Now I still do not have the volume that I would like so am working
that problem.
I did make a subsitution from the original design. I used a 1K to 8
ohm transformer instead of the 1.2K to 8 ohm transformer that is
called out. I will have to run out and see if I can get the correct
one now.
I have also an issue in the preamp. The gain does not seem to be
there from looking at the base and the collector and my voltages on
the emitter are way out. I see about 1.5 volts instead of .6 volts,
so do not understand that. Now I measure these with input signal
applied so wonder if they are supposed to be static with no signal
applied??
Am getting real close now. Still not sure that I have the RX
oscillator in the right place yet.
Steve NU0P
|
2705|2705|2003-12-30 16:46:50|Steve White|2N230 vs 2N240 Audio Stages|Jim
I noticed some differences between the audio stages of the 2N230 and
the 2N240. It seems that you have done some audio shaping in front
of the preamp in the design of the 2N230 that you did not have in the
2N240. Is there any reason I would not want to incorporate the audio
stage design from the 2N230 into my 2N240?
Steve NU0P
|
2706|2705|2003-12-30 17:16:14|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N230 vs 2N240 Audio Stages|At 09:46 PM 12/30/2003 +0000, Steve, NU0P wrote:
>Jim
>
>I noticed some differences between the audio stages of the 2N230 and
>the 2N240.
Yes, slight differences between the two versions.
> It seems that you have done some audio shaping in front
>of the preamp in the design of the 2N230 that you did not have in the
>2N240.
Well actually, most of that is better termination for the
Product Detector that wasn't in the 2N2/40. Those changes
makes the Product Detector work a bit better in theory, and
probably does some good in practice too.
> Is there any reason I would not want to incorporate the audio
>stage design from the 2N230 into my 2N240?
No, the 2N2/30 design is sort of my latest thinking, and will
work fine in the /40 version too. The autio amp in the /30
has a bit more gain too, so that might be beneficial.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 08:05 PM 12/30/2003 +0000, Steve, NU0P wrote:
>All
>
>Got my sensitivity where it belongs. I can turn down my signal
>generator to little bitty about .25 uV and can hear it just fine
>now.
Well that's the kind of sensitivity that you should be seeing.
I just measured Lee's (KM4YY) rig at something like -126 dBm,
or 0.117 microvolt. Mine is a tad better than that, but
anything under 0.25 microvolt is just fine.
> So the problem was in the audio amp chain not anywhere else.
Interesting! Maybe you are expecting more noise output than
this rig produces. It is very quiet, and not at all like a
systhesized rig. Signals sorta pop out of the background,
but you don't hear noise common in most rigs.
>
>Now I still do not have the volume that I would like so am working
>that problem.
OK.
>I did make a subsitution from the original design. I used a 1K to 8
>ohm transformer instead of the 1.2K to 8 ohm transformer that is
>called out. I will have to run out and see if I can get the correct
>one now.
You won't see a difference, so not worth doing. Either transformer
will work just fine. I've used both.
>I have also an issue in the preamp. The gain does not seem to be
>there from looking at the base and the collector and my voltages on
>the emitter are way out.
Well it is a grounded base design, so there is no RF on the base,
and you can't measure the RF level on the emitter directly, as
it is being offset by feedback coming from the 1 turn link. The
emitter is at a virtual RF ground. As far as DC bias is concerned,
as long as the emitter is running about 0.7 volts below the base
bias level, and the collector is 0.8 volts below the supply
voltage, it is probably working correctly. Since you used a
2N2222 transistor, did you put it in correctly? When you look
at the bottom of that transistor with the leads forming a
triangle pointing away from you, the emitter is the left lead,
the base is the center lead, and the collector is on the right.
Having that transistor wired in wrong would certainly kill the
gain.
> I see about 1.5 volts instead of .6 volts,
>so do not understand that. Now I measure these with input signal
>applied so wonder if they are supposed to be static with no signal
>applied??
The voltages shown in the schematic are DC voltages without
any signal. Is the emitter lower than the base voltage by
about 0.65 to 0.7 volts? If so, that means that the LED
you used at the base is just a bit higher in voltage than
the type that I used.
>Am getting real close now.
Yes, sounds like it.
> Still not sure that I have the RX
>oscillator in the right place yet.
That will make a huge difference in audio output and
overall receiver gain.
72 and thanks for keeping us posted,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim is right about the noise level. I've been convinced several times that
the radio doesn't work as I tune across a quiet band. Then, BANG!, a signal
appears ear deafening in the passband. It is amazing how the audio level
changes as you tune through the passband.
Time to start thinking about a case. I strongly recommend making a clear
Lucite top so that all your buddies can Ohhh and Ahhh at the radio with out
getting their grubby fingers all over the parts!
BTW, are you having trouble with a birdie just above 7.022 or so? I found
that I had to build a PC board shield around the VFO oscillator stage to
tame that puppy.
Is anybody still assigning serial numbers for these rigs? When I built mine
somebody would send you a certificate and serial number once you
authenticated the build with a photo and a QSL report. Since I've moved I
cannot find the certificate.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
>
> Well that's the kind of sensitivity that you should be seeing.
> I just measured Lee's (KM4YY) rig at something like -126 dBm,
> or 0.117 microvolt. Mine is a tad better than that, but
> anything under 0.25 microvolt is just fine.
>
> > So the problem was in the audio amp chain not anywhere else.
>
> Interesting! Maybe you are expecting more noise output than
> this rig produces. It is very quiet, and not at all like a
> systhesized rig. Signals sorta pop out of the background,
> but you don't hear noise common in most rigs.
>
Since I have a large supply of HP hot carrier diodes 5082-2810, would these
be OK to use in the mixers?
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2710|2709|2003-12-30 22:17:16|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: diodes|At 06:16 PM 12/30/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>Since I have a large supply of HP hot carrier diodes 5082-2810, would these
>be OK to use in the mixers?
>
>Jeff
Jeff,
Actually, those would be very good to use. Those (or equivalent)
are what are in most commercial mixers.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 05:52 PM 12/30/2003 -0500, Lee, KM4YY/8 wrote:
>-snip-
>Is anybody still assigning serial numbers for these rigs? When I built mine
>somebody would send you a certificate and serial number once you
>authenticated the build with a photo and a QSL report.
That was Preston, Douglas, WJ2V, who built the 2nd 2N2/40. He
was keeping track of the completed rigs and sending out nice
certificates upon completion of the rig and making a QSO with
it. I think he is out of that business now, having used up
all of the blank certificates. I have numbers 1 and 3! :-)
Sorry you lost yours, but I'll bet it will turn up sometime. It's
just hiding at the moment.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I am seeing about 1 vp-p at T4-1 with the radio receiving a signal.
I added a little cap trimmer in parallel with the cap that resonates
the coil in the collector of the vfo driver and have peaked that and
still get only 1 vp-p. If the vfo drive is lower than it should be
will effect my receiced signal noticably so that I should try and get
it right on the money???
I noticed that as I peaked the trimer the received signal would come
up out of the noise level...
Either I need to rewind the vfo amp resonating toroid or rewind the
DBM toroid. But I just checked the both of them and feel I have them
wound correctly...
What to do??
Steve NU0P
|
2713|2704|2003-12-31 01:37:01|Steve|Re: This is Progress !!!|Lee
I have a very nice case that I have been working on for some time now. It has a flip top lid so everyone can peak inside. I have also added a counter with offsets so that It will display my received freq and want to add an s-meter yet before I claim this unit done.
I wonder if I could add several additional 2N2222's in the output stage to take this unit up to 5 watts out? Has anyone done that you are aware of? Can I just place a couple more in parallel with those already installed and call it good or is it much more complicated than that??
Steve NU0P
----- Original Message -----
From: Lee Mairs
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2003 4:52 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] This is Progress !!!
Jim is right about the noise level. I've been convinced several times that
the radio doesn't work as I tune across a quiet band. Then, BANG!, a signal
appears ear deafening in the passband. It is amazing how the audio level
changes as you tune through the passband.
Time to start thinking about a case. I strongly recommend making a clear
Lucite top so that all your buddies can Ohhh and Ahhh at the radio with out
getting their grubby fingers all over the parts!
BTW, are you having trouble with a birdie just above 7.022 or so? I found
that I had to build a PC board shield around the VFO oscillator stage to
tame that puppy.
Is anybody still assigning serial numbers for these rigs? When I built mine
somebody would send you a certificate and serial number once you
authenticated the build with a photo and a QSL report. Since I've moved I
cannot find the certificate.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
>
> Well that's the kind of sensitivity that you should be seeing.
> I just measured Lee's (KM4YY) rig at something like -126 dBm,
> or 0.117 microvolt. Mine is a tad better than that, but
> anything under 0.25 microvolt is just fine.
>
> > So the problem was in the audio amp chain not anywhere else.
>
> Interesting! Maybe you are expecting more noise output than
> this rig produces. It is very quiet, and not at all like a
> systhesized rig. Signals sorta pop out of the background,
> but you don't hear noise common in most rigs.
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Make sure you have some sort of shield under the flip-top so that folks can
only peer in and not get their dirty fingers over the toroids and capacitors
that you are so arduously peaking!
I want to add either one of Steve Weber's digital dials or an SWL Freqmite
to my radio also. But first it needs an internal keyer option. I also have
some nice big ten turn dial counters; however, using one of these will
necessitate a new case. Of course with either the digital dial or the
freqmite, the need for a large counter dial is drastically reduced. Make
sure that you do use a counter of some sort. It is nice to know roughly how
far you have yet to turn to go from one end of the band to the other.
As far as adding transistors to the output stage, I think you will have to
worry about matching the output impedances. Jim is sure to chime in on this
design issue. I'm just in the 2N2-xx sales department, not engineering!
I got more enjoyment out of building this radio than anything I've ever done
in amateur radio. I can tell from your posts that you are having a great
time also.
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 1:37 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] This is Progress !!!
> Lee
>
> I have a very nice case that I have been working on for some time now. It
has a flip top lid so everyone can peak inside. I have also added a counter
with offsets so that It will display my received freq and want to add an
s-meter yet before I claim this unit done.
>
> I wonder if I could add several additional 2N2222's in the output stage to
take this unit up to 5 watts out? Has anyone done that you are aware of?
Can I just place a couple more in parallel with those already installed and
call it good or is it much more complicated than that??
>
> Steve NU0P
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Lee Mairs
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2003 4:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] This is Progress !!!
>
>
> Jim is right about the noise level. I've been convinced several times
that
> the radio doesn't work as I tune across a quiet band. Then, BANG!, a
signal
> appears ear deafening in the passband. It is amazing how the audio
level
> changes as you tune through the passband.
>
> Time to start thinking about a case. I strongly recommend making a
clear
> Lucite top so that all your buddies can Ohhh and Ahhh at the radio with
out
> getting their grubby fingers all over the parts!
>
> BTW, are you having trouble with a birdie just above 7.022 or so? I
found
> that I had to build a PC board shield around the VFO oscillator stage to
> tame that puppy.
>
> Is anybody still assigning serial numbers for these rigs? When I built
mine
> somebody would send you a certificate and serial number once you
> authenticated the build with a photo and a QSL report. Since I've moved
I
> cannot find the certificate.
>
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY/8
>
> >
> > Well that's the kind of sensitivity that you should be seeing.
> > I just measured Lee's (KM4YY) rig at something like -126 dBm,
> > or 0.117 microvolt. Mine is a tad better than that, but
> > anything under 0.25 microvolt is just fine.
> >
> > > So the problem was in the audio amp chain not anywhere else.
> >
> > Interesting! Maybe you are expecting more noise output than
> > this rig produces. It is very quiet, and not at all like a
> > systhesized rig. Signals sorta pop out of the background,
> > but you don't hear noise common in most rigs.
> >
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
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>
>
>
At 06:23 AM 12/31/2003 +0000, Steve, NU0P wrote:
>I am seeing about 1 vp-p at T4-1 with the radio receiving a signal.
Actually, the ideal level is 1.2 volts, but maybe you actually
have that and can't resolve the smaller part. The signal level
here is limited by the diodes conducting on the opposite side
of transformer T4. If you want to see the available drive level
from the VFO, you need to disconnect the lead going to T4-1,
and terminate it with 50 ohms. You'll then be able to
see the level really available to drive the DBM, and I'm guessing
it will be several volts p-p. 2 volts p-p into 50 ohms would
be +10 dBm, for reference. The mixer will work find down to
about +3 dBm before the sensitivity suffers greatly.
By the way, the level on T4-1 should not vary with the incoming
signal level unless the incoming signal level is huge.
>
>I added a little cap trimmer in parallel with the cap that resonates
>the coil in the collector of the vfo driver and have peaked that and
>still get only 1 vp-p.
You would see a better peak if the VFO wasn't driving the DBM.
If you drive the 50 ohm resistor instead, you should see a much
sharper peak as the trimmer is set.
> If the vfo drive is lower than it should be
>will effect my receiced signal noticably so that I should try and get
>it right on the money???
Doesn't have to be "right on the money". As long as you have about
1 volt p-p driving the DBM, it should be OK.
>I noticed that as I peaked the trimer the received signal would come
>up out of the noise level...
>
>Either I need to rewind the vfo amp resonating toroid or rewind the
>DBM toroid. But I just checked the both of them and feel I have them
>wound correctly...
I see nothing that you've sent me that would indicate a problem with
either toroid, unless you are seeing lots of change in the VFO drive
with incoming signal. If so, then you may have T4 wired into the
circuit wrong. I'd disconnect the lead going to T4-1 and take it
to ground through a 47 or 56 ohm resistor and see what the level is.
If it is 2 volts p-p or more, you've got plenty of drive for the DBM.
If you need more output from the VFO, you can reduce the value of
R9 down some, but I wouldn't go below maybe 150 ohms. Even that
value may make Q3 run too hot.
Also, you may have noticed that C12 is picked to resonate the
primary of T5, with 330pF being the nominal value. Adding the trimmer
across the primary for adjustment is a good way to make sure that
circuit is resonated. In the 2N2/30 VFO, a trimmer is part of the
output circuitry!
>What to do??
See above.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 12:37 AM 12/31/2003 -0600, Steve, NU0P wrote:
>-snip-
>I wonder if I could add several additional 2N2222's in the output stage to
>take this unit up to 5 watts out?
Yes you can, but I wouldn't do it that way. It will work, but
if you pop them, it is a lot of work soldering all of those
transistors back in.
> Has anyone done that you are aware of?
Sort of. Someone built an amp using 10 2N2222A's back when the original
NorCal 2N2222 contest was going if I remember correctly. I don't remember
the powere output, but it should have been over 5 watts. You can get about
0.75 watts per metal transistor and be safe.
However, a better way to go would be to use something like a 2SC1969
or 2SC2166 etc. and run that as a final. You could use the final and
driver circuitry of the 2N2/30 just fine, and rescale the output filter
values to 7 MHz. Just make all of the 2N2/30 filter components larger
by the ratio of 10.1/7.1. That should give you around 10 watts output
at full throttle.
> Can I just place a couple more in parallel with those already installed
> and call it good or is it much more complicated than that??
No, thats all you have to do. The output circuitry won't be optimized,
as it was designed for 2 watts of output, but is should be close enough
if you only bump it up by a watt or two.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
That's what I used in mine, they work great. These
came in the "balanced mixer kit" that Dan's Small
Parts sells. I recommend this kit, mostly because it
comes with three different colored magnet wires. This
makes it so easy to wind those trifilars!
GL es 72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- Jeff Noel <
k4zku@erols.com> wrote:
> Since I have a large supply of HP hot carrier diodes
> 5082-2810, would these
> be OK to use in the mixers?
>
> Jeff
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfreeplease ignore
|
2719|2719|2004-01-01 21:14:07|Steve White|Speaker vs Headphones|Is everyone getting enough audio from the 2N240 to drive a 3 in
speaker to comfortable room volume? I do not but I do get plenty of
audio to run a set of stereo headphones just fine, audio to spare. I
was wondering if this is normal or am I just short some gain
someplace. I do not lack for sensitivity but audio level. I can
hear .5 uv stuff just would like a bit more sound. Is this normal?
Steve
I think I can finish this soon, got the case about done, the freq
counter is done too. Just need to get the power supply done and the
PA done.
|
2720|2719|2004-01-01 21:50:28|Lee Mairs|Re: Speaker vs Headphones|I sometimes plug in a cheap speaker when I am hanging around in the shack,
but I flat can't concentrate enough to copy cw without a headset..
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve White" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 9:14 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Speaker vs Headphones
> Is everyone getting enough audio from the 2N240 to drive a 3 in
> speaker to comfortable room volume? I do not but I do get plenty of
> audio to run a set of stereo headphones just fine, audio to spare. I
> was wondering if this is normal or am I just short some gain
> someplace. I do not lack for sensitivity but audio level. I can
> hear .5 uv stuff just would like a bit more sound. Is this normal?
>
> Steve
>
> I think I can finish this soon, got the case about done, the freq
> counter is done too. Just need to get the power supply done and the
> PA done.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Lee
Then it sounds like to me that you are getting at least enough audio out of the speaker that it is comfortable enough to monitor 40 but not enough to carry on a QSO. I too can copy/concentrate much better with headphones on.
So it would appear to me then that I have an audio problem still...Hmmmm... Think I will work on that issue later since I want to get this in the box and on the air...
Happy New Year Lee
Steve NU0P
----- Original Message -----
From: Lee Mairs
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Speaker vs Headphones
I sometimes plug in a cheap speaker when I am hanging around in the shack,
but I flat can't concentrate enough to copy cw without a headset..
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve White" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 9:14 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Speaker vs Headphones
> Is everyone getting enough audio from the 2N240 to drive a 3 in
> speaker to comfortable room volume? I do not but I do get plenty of
> audio to run a set of stereo headphones just fine, audio to spare. I
> was wondering if this is normal or am I just short some gain
> someplace. I do not lack for sensitivity but audio level. I can
> hear .5 uv stuff just would like a bit more sound. Is this normal?
>
> Steve
>
> I think I can finish this soon, got the case about done, the freq
> counter is done too. Just need to get the power supply done and the
> PA done.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Yahoo! Groups Links
To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Steve,
Jim K. can correct me if my back of the envelope calculation is wrong,
but it looks like the audio amp is designed to output less than 1/3 of
a watt. Because hearing is logarithmic you will probably need a
sizable step up in audio performance, say audio of at least a watt, to
really get enough power to comfortably listen on a speaker.
There's a bunch of alternatives here including:
1) Adding a powered speaker such as an inexpensive computer speaker
2) Using a tuned enclosure to increase the speaker efficiency
3) Add an LM380 audio stage to deliver more power to the speaker
If you haven't mounted the rig in an enclosure yet, you may find that
the apparent volume becomes higher once the speaker is mounted in a
closed box. Or not :) Speaker enclosure design is a whole 'nother
subject but I will point out there's some neat work on tuned resonant
cavity enclosures that you can google if you're interested in
maximizing audio output and efficiency.
The downside of "more audio" is the petite power consumption that Jim
so carefully managed in the design process to allow for extended
battery operation is somewhat compromised. Your rig, your call!
GL es Happy New Year.
72/73,
*Lew*
N5ZE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 22:40 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Speaker vs Headphones
> Lee
>
> Then it sounds like to me that you are getting at least enough audio
out of the speaker that it is comfortable enough to monitor 40 but not
enough to carry on a QSO. I too can copy/concentrate much better with
headphones on.
>
> So it would appear to me then that I have an audio problem
still...Hmmmm... Think I will work on that issue later since I want
to get this in the box and on the air...
>
> Happy New Year Lee
>
> Steve NU0P
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Lee Mairs
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 8:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Speaker vs Headphones
>
>
> I sometimes plug in a cheap speaker when I am hanging around in
the shack,
> but I flat can't concentrate enough to copy cw without a headset..
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy/8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve White" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 9:14 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Speaker vs Headphones
>
>
> > Is everyone getting enough audio from the 2N240 to drive a 3 in
> > speaker to comfortable room volume? I do not but I do get
plenty of
> > audio to run a set of stereo headphones just fine, audio to
spare. I
> > was wondering if this is normal or am I just short some gain
> > someplace. I do not lack for sensitivity but audio level. I can
> > hear .5 uv stuff just would like a bit more sound. Is this
normal?
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > I think I can finish this soon, got the case about done, the
freq
> > counter is done too. Just need to get the power supply done and
the
> > PA done.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
At 02:14 AM 1/2/2004 +0000, Steve wrote:
>Is everyone getting enough audio from the 2N240 to drive a 3 in
>speaker to comfortable room volume?
I don't know about others, but my 2N2/40+ and 2N2/30 both drive
a 4" MFJ 281 "Cleartone" speaker to very high audio levels.
Comfortable listening on a S9 signal is obtained with the audio
pot at maybe 1/16 of it full rotation. On weak signals, I have
to open it up to maybe 1/8 of the full rotation.
> I do not but I do get plenty of
>audio to run a set of stereo headphones just fine, audio to spare.
I'm wondering if the speaker you are using isn't at fault. The
MFJ is an 8 ohm unit, and really puts out the audio with very little
drive.
> I
>was wondering if this is normal or am I just short some gain
>someplace. I do not lack for sensitivity but audio level. I can
>hear .5 uv stuff just would like a bit more sound. Is this normal?
Doesn't sound quite right to me. You should be getting more audio
out into the speaker, if the speaker is a good one, and something
isn't amiss in the rig somewhere.
>Steve
>
>I think I can finish this soon, got the case about done, the freq
>counter is done too. Just need to get the power supply done and the
>PA done.
You're making great progress Steve. We just need to figure
out why the audio is down.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....send me you telephone number off list and I can call you
and let you hear my 2N2/40+ with "on air" signals. That would allow
you to get some idea of how much audio to expect.
At 11:33 PM 1/1/2004 -0600, Lew, N5ZE wrote:
>Steve,
>Jim K. can correct me if my back of the envelope calculation is wrong,
>but it looks like the audio amp is designed to output less than 1/3 of
>a watt.
Close enough for government work Lew! :-)
> Because hearing is logarithmic you will probably need a
>sizable step up in audio performance, say audio of at least a watt, to
>really get enough power to comfortably listen on a speaker.
Not with my ears and the MFJ-281 speaker I use on my rig. Plenty
of audio with that setup and power available. 20 milliwatts
into that speaker is LOUD!
>There's a bunch of alternatives here including:
>1) Adding a powered speaker such as an inexpensive computer speaker
>2) Using a tuned enclosure to increase the speaker efficiency
>3) Add an LM380 audio stage to deliver more power to the speaker
All of those suggestions will work fine, but I think there
is a fundamental problem that you don't have more audio.
Either something isn't right in the audio chain, or the Rx LO
still isn't set properly, and you aren't getting the audio out
that you should.
>If you haven't mounted the rig in an enclosure yet, you may find that
>the apparent volume becomes higher once the speaker is mounted in a
>closed box. Or not :) Speaker enclosure design is a whole 'nother
>subject but I will point out there's some neat work on tuned resonant
>cavity enclosures that you can google if you're interested in
>maximizing audio output and efficiency.
>
>The downside of "more audio" is the petite power consumption that Jim
>so carefully managed in the design process to allow for extended
>battery operation is somewhat compromised. Your rig, your call!
Well said!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim -
I always felt that the audio in my 2N2-40 was low. Did you notice that when
you had the rig?
Steve and I may be right about low audio. You might have an extremely "hot"
pair of ears!
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Speaker vs Headphones
> At 02:14 AM 1/2/2004 +0000, Steve wrote:
>
> >Is everyone getting enough audio from the 2N240 to drive a 3 in
> >speaker to comfortable room volume?
>
> I don't know about others, but my 2N2/40+ and 2N2/30 both drive
> a 4" MFJ 281 "Cleartone" speaker to very high audio levels.
> Comfortable listening on a S9 signal is obtained with the audio
> pot at maybe 1/16 of it full rotation. On weak signals, I have
> to open it up to maybe 1/8 of the full rotation.
>
> > I do not but I do get plenty of
> >audio to run a set of stereo headphones just fine, audio to spare.
>
> I'm wondering if the speaker you are using isn't at fault. The
> MFJ is an 8 ohm unit, and really puts out the audio with very little
> drive.
>
> > I
> >was wondering if this is normal or am I just short some gain
> >someplace. I do not lack for sensitivity but audio level. I can
> >hear .5 uv stuff just would like a bit more sound. Is this normal?
>
> Doesn't sound quite right to me. You should be getting more audio
> out into the speaker, if the speaker is a good one, and something
> isn't amiss in the rig somewhere.
>
>
> >Steve
> >
> >I think I can finish this soon, got the case about done, the freq
> >counter is done too. Just need to get the power supply done and the
> >PA done.
>
> You're making great progress Steve. We just need to figure
> out why the audio is down.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS....send me you telephone number off list and I can call you
> and let you hear my 2N2/40+ with "on air" signals. That would allow
> you to get some idea of how much audio to expect.
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 05:05 PM 1/2/2004 -0500, Lee, km4yy/8 wrote:
>Jim -
>I always felt that the audio in my 2N2-40 was low. Did you notice that when
>you had the rig?
Just a tad Lee, but very acceptable with the MFJ speaker.
>Steve and I may be right about low audio. You might have an extremely "hot"
>pair of ears!
No, I think they are normal to slightly below normal. After all,
I'm 61 and my hearing is starting to suffer too.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
Thanks for the marvelous design and lay-out of the
2n2-40. Completed mine and worked 3 states with
battery power and an indoor antenna. Worked one station
who was running a Tuna Tin 2 and I was his first
QSO.
Took the rig to our ham club meeting for "show and tell."
Needless to say, it was a big hit.
Thanks for bringing back the challenge and fun
to ham radio.
72,
Jim, W4ULY
|
2728|2010|2004-01-03 02:58:03|kymasoft2000|2N2/15|Jim,
Whatever happened to the 2N2/15 meter project? I haven't seen
anything new on the website for quite a while.
Michael 'Bear' Hebert NH7SR
|
2729|2010|2004-01-03 08:01:52|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N2/15|At 07:58 AM 1/3/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Whatever happened to the 2N2/15 meter project? I haven't seen
>anything new on the website for quite a while.
Hi Michael,
The 2N2/15 got pushed aside, but not totally forgotten. I'm
planning to get back to that design one of these days, but
there are several other rigs envisioned before that one gets
going again. Besides with the sunspots going down, there is
no hurry! :-)
72 and thanks for asking,
Jim, K8IQY
At 02:48 AM 1/3/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Thanks for the marvelous design and lay-out of the
>2n2-40. Completed mine and worked 3 states with
>battery power and an indoor antenna. Worked one station
>who was running a Tuna Tin 2 and I was his first
>QSO.
>Took the rig to our ham club meeting for "show and tell."
>Needless to say, it was a big hit.
>Thanks for bringing back the challenge and fun
>to ham radio.
>
>72,
>
>Jim, W4ULY
Jim,
Thanks for you kind words and feedback on your 2N2/40 rig. I'm
delighted to hear another one is up and running. Fantastic!!
A more are being built by other guys on the Yahoo 2n2-40 group.
I was on with mine on SKN, having a grand time at 2 watts.
72 and thanks again,
Jim, K8IQY
Ah ha!!! Does this mean the 2n2-20 is next? ;-)
73, Jim, AL7FS
from the land where only 20 meters makes sense. :-)
Jim Kortge, K8IQY wrote:
>>Whatever happened to the 2N2/15 meter project?
> The 2N2/15 got pushed aside, but not totally forgotten.
> there are several other rigs envisioned before that one gets
> going again. Besides with the sunspots going down, there is
> no hurry!
At 10:44 AM 1/3/2004 -0900, you wrote:
>Ah ha!!! Does this mean the 2n2-20 is next? ;-)
Maybe not next, but certainly in the queue Jim. Actually, it may
be next, as I've never had a 20 meter QRP rig.
>73, Jim, AL7FS
>from the land where only 20 meters makes sense. :-)
I hear 'ya!
72 and Happy New Year,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim wa right, a lousy speaker gives low audio output. I replaced my
junk box speaker with a 4" 4ohm Kenwood Mobile speaker and the audio
level is much much better now. Now to find a good 3" 8 ohm speaker
to mount in the box...
I have the PA finished and just blew up my first set of Power
Transistiors...I do not know if I did something wrong or not but had
a few problems gettting it to transmit at all but think I am through
that now. I did not have 2.2 ohm resistors for the emitters of the
PA devices so I put in 2.7 ohm resistors. Not sure if I should have
gone higher or lower in resistance here but chose higher since I
thought there would be less current flow and it would be less likely
that I would blow out the transistors that way.
Steve NU0P
|
2734|2734|2004-01-04 15:03:13|Steve White|2+ Watts Out!!!|Well I burned up about 7 2N2222's in the metal case but I now have 2
Watts out with power to spare. Ran out of metal case 2N2222's so am
using the plastic ones and they seem to work just fine. I am almost
ready to declare success.
Steve NU0P
|
2735|2734|2004-01-04 15:22:13|Steve Smith|Re: 2+ Watts Out!!!|Congratulations Steve! Life is good! I've been following your progress
from my hole in the woodwork.
Regarding the speaker, may I suggest an external unt? Although they are
quite small the surplus jobs from cellular phone vehicular kits are
fairly efficient. And they're generally restricted to voice frequencies.
The problem I see with an internal speaker is that they usually don't
push much air without proper baffling.
Just my observations, YMMV.
Good luck.
73.......Steve Smith, WB6TNL
Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 20:03:12 -0000 "Steve White" <
stever1k@hotmail.com>
writes:
> Well I burned up about 7 2N2222's in the metal case but I now have 2
>
> Watts out with power to spare. Ran out of metal case 2N2222's so am
>
> using the plastic ones and they seem to work just fine. I am almost
>
> ready to declare success.
>
> Steve NU0P
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
Bravo Steve!
Now you have to 'fess up and tell us how many toroids you had to rewind.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Smith" <sigcom@juno.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2+ Watts Out!!!
> Congratulations Steve! Life is good! I've been following your progress
> from my hole in the woodwork.
>
> Regarding the speaker, may I suggest an external unt? Although they are
> quite small the surplus jobs from cellular phone vehicular kits are
> fairly efficient. And they're generally restricted to voice frequencies.
> The problem I see with an internal speaker is that they usually don't
> push much air without proper baffling.
>
> Just my observations, YMMV.
>
> Good luck.
>
> 73.......Steve Smith, WB6TNL
> Oxnard, CA USA
> "Snort Rosin"
>
> On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 20:03:12 -0000 "Steve White" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
> writes:
> > Well I burned up about 7 2N2222's in the metal case but I now have 2
> >
> > Watts out with power to spare. Ran out of metal case 2N2222's so am
> >
> > using the plastic ones and they seem to work just fine. I am almost
> >
> > ready to declare success.
> >
> > Steve NU0P
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Jim,
Will you be at FDIM this year?
============================================
Agnus dei, qui tollis pecatta mundi, dona nobis Pacem.
============================================
KB9BVN/QRP QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
GRID: EM69WN - Elecraft K1 - Attic Dipole - 5w
Member of the ARRL - SOC #400
FISTS 5695 CC 764 FPQRP #-57
============================================
|
2738|2734|2004-01-04 17:35:18|J. Wagner|Re: 2+ Watts Out!!!|I seem to recall going though a few finals on the way to getting my first
2n2/40+ running - best to keep a few spares on hand.
Congrats on getting your rig up and running. If I had an antenna, I'd get
mine on the air to celebrate. :)
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner
john@wagner-usa.net Wat
>From: "Steve White" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2n2-40] 2+ Watts Out!!!
>Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 20:03:12 -0000
>
>Well I burned up about 7 2N2222's in the metal case but I now have 2
>Watts out with power to spare. Ran out of metal case 2N2222's so am
>using the plastic ones and they seem to work just fine. I am almost
>ready to declare success.
>
>Steve NU0P
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Worried about inbox overload? Get MSN Extra Storage now!
http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Lee Mairs wrote:
I hate to think how many toroids I rewound!!!....My fingers are still
numb from that and I am crosseyed too. Good thing I had that big
magnifier lens on the light....I sure did learn alot about winding
toroids however, and that is the point.
Thanks for the kind words of encouragement during the whole process.
Steve
> Bravo Steve!
>
> Now you have to 'fess up and tell us how many toroids you had to
rewind.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY/8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Smith"
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 3:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2+ Watts Out!!!
>
>
> > Congratulations Steve! Life is good! I've been following your
progress
> > from my hole in the woodwork.
> >
> > Regarding the speaker, may I suggest an external unt? Although
they are
> > quite small the surplus jobs from cellular phone vehicular kits
are
> > fairly efficient. And they're generally restricted to voice
frequencies.
> > The problem I see with an internal speaker is that they usually
don't
> > push much air without proper baffling.
> >
> > Just my observations, YMMV.
> >
> > Good luck.
> >
> > 73.......Steve Smith, WB6TNL
> > Oxnard, CA USA
> > "Snort Rosin"
> >
> > On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 20:03:12 -0000 "Steve White"
> > writes:
> > > Well I burned up about 7 2N2222's in the metal case but I now
have 2
> > >
> > > Watts out with power to spare. Ran out of metal case 2N2222's
so am
> > >
> > > using the plastic ones and they seem to work just fine. I am
almost
> > >
> > > ready to declare success.
> > >
> > > Steve NU0P
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________
> > The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> > Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> > Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
A cell speaker is a good idea!! But I have a whole already drilled
in the box!!!Yikes... So will have to find one that will fit..Maybe
I can find one that will fit in the box??
Steve
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Steve Smith wrote:
> Congratulations Steve! Life is good! I've been following your
progress
> from my hole in the woodwork.
>
> Regarding the speaker, may I suggest an external unt? Although
they are
> quite small the surplus jobs from cellular phone vehicular kits are
> fairly efficient. And they're generally restricted to voice
frequencies.
> The problem I see with an internal speaker is that they usually
don't
> push much air without proper baffling.
>
> Just my observations, YMMV.
>
> Good luck.
>
> 73.......Steve Smith, WB6TNL
> Oxnard, CA USA
> "Snort Rosin"
>
> On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 20:03:12 -0000 "Steve White"
> writes:
> > Well I burned up about 7 2N2222's in the metal case but I now
have 2
> >
> > Watts out with power to spare. Ran out of metal case 2N2222's so
am
> >
> > using the plastic ones and they seem to work just fine. I am
almost
> >
> > ready to declare success.
> >
> > Steve NU0P
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
That's it.....
Tonight i am going to pull all of the parts
out and continue building mine (2N2-40+).
I have been monitoring everyone's progress
and am becoming a bit jealous at everyones
recent success!
Mine is about 20 percent complete now but I
had packed it all away when I moved, otherwise
it would be finished by now.
Will post my progress as I progress.....
kc7zwg - Marty
cn 87 rf
|
2742|2733|2004-01-04 20:35:24|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Lessons Learned !|At 04:28 PM 1/4/2004 +0000, Steve, NU0P wrote:
>Jim was right, a lousy speaker gives low audio output. I replaced my
>junk box speaker with a 4" 4ohm Kenwood Mobile speaker and the audio
>level is much much better now.
Well we all learned something here.
> Now to find a good 3" 8 ohm speaker
>to mount in the box...
That's the way.
>I have the PA finished and just blew up my first set of Power
>Transistiors...
Been there, done that plenty of times. 2N2222A transistors DO
NOT like high SWR. The don't have a high enough collector
breakdown voltage, and pop rather easily. You did put in the
1N4752A Zener diode I hope. That offers a fair amount of
protection.
>I do not know if I did something wrong or not but had
>a few problems gettting it to transmit at all but think I am through
>that now. I did not have 2.2 ohm resistors for the emitters of the
>PA devices so I put in 2.7 ohm resistors.
Those should work fine.
> Not sure if I should have
>gone higher or lower in resistance here but chose higher since I
>thought there would be less current flow and it would be less likely
>that I would blow out the transistors that way.
Yes, good choice.
Sounds like you're almost there Steve. Congrats!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 08:03 PM 1/4/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Well I burned up about 7 2N2222's in the metal case but I now have 2
>Watts out with power to spare.
That's right on the money!
> Ran out of metal case 2N2222's so am
>using the plastic ones and they seem to work just fine.
WJ2V never did run any of the metal devices, and ran the crap
out of the plastic variety. When they blow up thought, they
are much more spectacular!!
> I am almost
>ready to declare success.
Do it.....I'm listening on 40 meters with mine when you're
ready to light it off.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 05:27 PM 1/4/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Bravo Steve!
>
>Now you have to 'fess up and tell us how many toroids you had to rewind.
>73 de Lee
>KM4YY/8
Don't worry Steve, Lee has a record that nobody will break!! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS.....just kidding Lee
At 05:32 PM 1/4/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Will you be at FDIM this year?
Sure will Brian unless I'm dead and buried!! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 01:13 AM 1/5/2004 +0000, kc7zwg - Marty, wrote:
>That's it.....
>Tonight i am going to pull all of the parts
>out and continue building mine (2N2-40+).
Wonderful....we got another builder fired up again.
I know there are lots more of you out there with
parts kits that are begging to be built into a rig.
The momentum is moving.........
>I have been monitoring everyone's progress
>and am becoming a bit jealous at everyones
>recent success!
Yes, and I've spent the afternoon noodling ideas
for a 2N2/20+. How many would be interested
in building one of those??
I may be sorry I asked that question. It may mean
a mandate!! :-)
>Mine is about 20 percent complete now but I
>had packed it all away when I moved, otherwise
>it would be finished by now.
Lots of winter left for building Marty.
>Will post my progress as I progress.....
Please do, and nice to have you back working on
your rig and keeping us posted. Everybody learns
that way.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Way to go Marty! We get a few more guys up and running and we will be able
to schedule another 2N2-40 night.
73 and I'll be watching,
Lee.
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Johnson" <kc7zwg@aol.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 8:13 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Enough is enough....
> That's it.....
> Tonight i am going to pull all of the parts
> out and continue building mine (2N2-40+).
>
> I have been monitoring everyone's progress
> and am becoming a bit jealous at everyones
> recent success!
>
> Mine is about 20 percent complete now but I
> had packed it all away when I moved, otherwise
> it would be finished by now.
>
> Will post my progress as I progress.....
>
> kc7zwg - Marty
> cn 87 rf
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hi Jim,
I'd be interested in building a 20 meter rig to go with the 40 meter. Just casting my vote, and I hope to see you in Dayton.
Happy New Year!
73
Tom
N0DSP
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Enough is enough....
Yes, and I've spent the afternoon noodling ideas
for a 2N2/20+. How many would be interested
in building one of those??
I may be sorry I asked that question. It may mean
a mandate!! :-)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I can't stand it either. I am gathering the parts and along with AF4PS
will be working on completing a 2N2-40....I'd love to have it up,
running, and debugged before FDIM this year.
Jim...heck yes on the 20m rig.
Gimme strength!
============================================
Agnus dei, qui tollis pecatta mundi, dona nobis Pacem.
============================================
KB9BVN/QRP QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
GRID: EM69WN - Elecraft K1 - Attic Dipole - 5w
Member of the ARRL - SOC #400
FISTS 5695 CC 764 FPQRP #-57
============================================
|
2750|2749|2004-01-04 21:42:07|Rob Matherly|Re: Ok...I'm gonna build...|Brian Murrey wrote:
>I can't stand it either. I am gathering the parts and along with AF4PS
>will be working on completing a 2N2-40....I'd love to have it up,
>running, and debugged before FDIM this year.
>
>
Don't forget Dennis (wb0wao) and I!
Although I'm being my usual procrastinating self.....
- Rob
I had no idea that with my success it would motivate all of you to
get going again. I was just looking for a good Christmas project and
Jim's most excellent design, everyones help, would get things moving
again. Just Great.
It should be much more fun watching all of you bring your radios to
life than just watching me...But it is oh so worth it...
Now to add that S-meter circuit to my 2N240...
Steve NU0P
|
2752|2751|2004-01-04 22:48:29|Martin Johnson|Re: Ahhhhh!!! New and Reborn Builders...Ain't it Great!!|um..... Hey Steve....
what S-Meter circuit?
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Steve White" wrote:
> I had no idea that with my success it would motivate all of you to
> get going again. I was just looking for a good Christmas project
and
> Jim's most excellent design, everyones help, would get things
moving
> again. Just Great.
>
> It should be much more fun watching all of you bring your radios
to
> life than just watching me...But it is oh so worth it...
>
> Now to add that S-meter circuit to my 2N240...
>
> Steve NU0P
I gotta have an S-Meter so I drill the box for one and now I need to
add a little S-Meter Amp to the output of the IF and I should be able
to make this work for me. I know in Jim's design there was no S-
Meter. I am just being creative I guess. I hope I can make it work,
If not then I will have a hole in the case with noting of use in it.
HI.
Steve NU0P
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Martin Johnson" wrote:
> um..... Hey Steve....
> what S-Meter circuit?
>
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Steve White" wrote:
> > I had no idea that with my success it would motivate all of you
to
> > get going again. I was just looking for a good Christmas project
> and
> > Jim's most excellent design, everyones help, would get things
> moving
> > again. Just Great.
> >
> > It should be much more fun watching all of you bring your radios
> to
> > life than just watching me...But it is oh so worth it...
> >
> > Now to add that S-meter circuit to my 2N240...
> >
> > Steve NU0P
well if the S-Meter circuit works
I would be very happy to use it as well...
Good Luck!
Marty
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Steve White" wrote:
> I gotta have an S-Meter so I drill the box for one and now I need
to
> add a little S-Meter Amp to the output of the IF and I should be
able
> to make this work for me. I know in Jim's design there was no S-
> Meter. I am just being creative I guess. I hope I can make it
work,
> If not then I will have a hole in the case with noting of use in
it.
> HI.
>
> Steve NU0P
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Martin Johnson" wrote:
> > um..... Hey Steve....
> > what S-Meter circuit?
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Steve White"
wrote:
> > > I had no idea that with my success it would motivate all of you
> to
> > > get going again. I was just looking for a good Christmas
project
> > and
> > > Jim's most excellent design, everyones help, would get things
> > moving
> > > again. Just Great.
> > >
> > > It should be much more fun watching all of you bring your
radios
> > to
> > > life than just watching me...But it is oh so worth it...
> > >
> > > Now to add that S-meter circuit to my 2N240...
> > >
> > > Steve NU0P
And I am going to build a 2N2-30!
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Matherly" <jimrob@jetnetinc.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 9:41 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Ok...I'm gonna build...
> Brian Murrey wrote:
>
> >I can't stand it either. I am gathering the parts and along with AF4PS
> >will be working on completing a 2N2-40....I'd love to have it up,
> >running, and debugged before FDIM this year.
> >
> >
> Don't forget Dennis (wb0wao) and I!
>
> Although I'm being my usual procrastinating self.....
>
> - Rob
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Steve -
Make sure you let us know how the S-meter circuit turned out. I've been
thinking about re-packaging my 2N2-40 in a bigger box and adding a digital
dial, a bigger tuning knob, and a keyer.
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve White" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 10:24 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Ahhhhh!!! New and Reborn Builders...Ain't it Great!!
> I had no idea that with my success it would motivate all of you to
> get going again. I was just looking for a good Christmas project and
> Jim's most excellent design, everyones help, would get things moving
> again. Just Great.
>
> It should be much more fun watching all of you bring your radios to
> life than just watching me...But it is oh so worth it...
>
> Now to add that S-meter circuit to my 2N240...
>
> Steve NU0P
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
.... and I'm another one with a 30% built rig, and yes, I've taken the kick
in the pants as well and I'll start up again on the project.
Thanks fellas
Paul, G0odp
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2758|2758|2004-01-05 10:24:14|kennymac|Hello everyone|Hi guys and gals. My name is Ken and I am from Ottawa Lake, MI. ( Just north
of Toledo ). I am taking my elements 1,2 and 3 on Saturday. I have been
bitten by the hoembrew bug bad. I have gotten my feet wet building a SW 40+
and a couple of "ugly" Pixie's. I really enjoy the learning as much as the
building.
I am off to radio shack this afternoon after work to pick up what I can to
start construction on my 2n2-40 this evening...
I have a DMM and a 100 Mhz scope and a Sencore Cap / Inductor meter. I will
continue looking for a freq counter and generator on ebay I suppose.
Anyway, I just wanted to introduce myself and say hi. I am really looking
forward to this project and will try my best to add what I can to the group.
Although I think it's gonna be a lot more take than give, I'm afraid...
Kennymac
|
2759|2709|2004-01-05 15:29:43|Jeff Noel|Re: diodes|Is there an update parts list for the 2n2-40?
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2760|2760|2004-01-05 18:55:14|rafterdog|Thanks, Jim...I vote for the 2n/20|Yup
After finding the N5ESE website I proceeded to build almost every
thing I could inside Altoids tins :-) I stumbled across the link to
Jim's K8IQY 2n/40 website and went there. Three weeks later, the
2n/40 was on my bench being debugged..Then I found this Builders
group, read EVERY post and looked at EVERY picture. I rebuilt my
2n/40 into a 2n/40+ ( but left the filter as the old design because
I didn't have the new varactors). The 2n/40 hears better than my
old TS520. Sometimes blows my brains out though because there's no
AGC..aside from that, it's a great rig, quiet and selective. I
built it into an old CB case..
The next project was a 2n/30. I have the construction completed,
but it isn't performing to specs yet. I can hear an occasional CW
QSO but the band doesn't seem to be too active from my neck of the
woods.
I am looking forward to either converting the 2n/30 to 20 meters or
just starting from scratch. I use a pad cutter, pads, SMT, ugly
style...just whatever works at the time.
Thanks guys for this great group !!
John Wells
Austin, TX
|
2761|2760|2004-01-05 20:03:58|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Thanks, Jim...I vote for the 2n/20|At 11:55 PM 1/5/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Yup
>After finding the N5ESE website I proceeded to build almost every
>thing I could inside Altoids tins :-) I stumbled across the link to
>Jim's K8IQY 2n/40 website and went there. Three weeks later, the
>2n/40 was on my bench being debugged..Then I found this Builders
>group, read EVERY post and looked at EVERY picture. I rebuilt my
>2n/40 into a 2n/40+ ( but left the filter as the old design because
>I didn't have the new varactors). The 2n/40 hears better than my
>old TS520. Sometimes blows my brains out though because there's no
>AGC..aside from that, it's a great rig, quiet and selective. I
>built it into an old CB case..
>The next project was a 2n/30. I have the construction completed,
>but it isn't performing to specs yet. I can hear an occasional CW
>QSO but the band doesn't seem to be too active from my neck of the
>woods.
>I am looking forward to either converting the 2n/30 to 20 meters or
>just starting from scratch. I use a pad cutter, pads, SMT, ugly
>style...just whatever works at the time.
>
>Thanks guys for this great group !!
>
>John Wells
>Austin, TX
Wow John, I'm impressed!! Way to go on the 2N2/40 and the
2N2/30. If you need help witha the /30, I'm here to assist.
If you get totally frustrated with troubleshooting it, send
it to me at my call book address and I'll put it on the bench,
get it working, and send it back. All it will cost you is
postage both ways.
72 and many thanks for the nice feedback,
Jim, K8IQY
That is what we need to hear. A nice positive shot of enthusiasm injected
into the group. Keep us up to speed on your 2N2-30 and its problems. I
think that is what I'm going to build next.
BTW, there was an NJQRP kit that was a transverter for taking the 2N2-40 and
putting it on 17 meters. I bought the kit at Atlanticon two years ago, but
haven't looked at it since.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "rafterdog" <sidni@swbell.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 6:55 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Thanks, Jim...I vote for the 2n/20
> Yup
> After finding the N5ESE website I proceeded to build almost every
> thing I could inside Altoids tins :-) I stumbled across the link to
> Jim's K8IQY 2n/40 website and went there. Three weeks later, the
> 2n/40 was on my bench being debugged..Then I found this Builders
> group, read EVERY post and looked at EVERY picture. I rebuilt my
> 2n/40 into a 2n/40+ ( but left the filter as the old design because
> I didn't have the new varactors). The 2n/40 hears better than my
> old TS520. Sometimes blows my brains out though because there's no
> AGC..aside from that, it's a great rig, quiet and selective. I
> built it into an old CB case..
> The next project was a 2n/30. I have the construction completed,
> but it isn't performing to specs yet. I can hear an occasional CW
> QSO but the band doesn't seem to be too active from my neck of the
> woods.
> I am looking forward to either converting the 2n/30 to 20 meters or
> just starting from scratch. I use a pad cutter, pads, SMT, ugly
> style...just whatever works at the time.
>
> Thanks guys for this great group !!
>
> John Wells
> Austin, TX
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Jim,
Count me in when the 2n2-20 becomes a reality.
Thanks,
Jim, W4ULY
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Enough is enough....
At 01:13 AM 1/5/2004 +0000, kc7zwg - Marty, wrote:
>That's it.....
>Tonight i am going to pull all of the parts
>out and continue building mine (2N2-40+).
Wonderful....we got another builder fired up again.
I know there are lots more of you out there with
parts kits that are begging to be built into a rig.
The momentum is moving.........
>I have been monitoring everyone's progress
>and am becoming a bit jealous at everyones
>recent success!
Yes, and I've spent the afternoon noodling ideas
for a 2N2/20+. How many would be interested
in building one of those??
I may be sorry I asked that question. It may mean
a mandate!! :-)
>Mine is about 20 percent complete now but I
>had packed it all away when I moved, otherwise
>it would be finished by now.
Lots of winter left for building Marty.
>Will post my progress as I progress.....
Please do, and nice to have you back working on
your rig and keeping us posted. Everybody learns
that way.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
{Jim, K8IQY Wrote}
If you get totally frustrated with troubleshooting it, send
it to me at my call book address and I'll put it on the bench,
get it working, and send it back. All it will cost you is
postage both ways.
72 and many thanks for the nice feedback,
Jim, K8IQY
Fellow 2N2-?? Builders,
The above message from Jim states it all. Jim is one of the most giving guys that I have come across in the hobby. When we were all building a couple years ago, Jim was ALWAYS there to give us encouragement and a helping hand. Jim has spent countless hours designing the rig, matching crystals, answering rookie questions (like mine) and troubleshooting rigs (like mine) and I feel honored to know Jim and consider him a friend.
My first contact with my 2n2-40 was with my Dad, Raymond Little, K9KJD in Reelsville, Indiana (Colorado to Indiana). My Dad, is responsible for 7 Hams, well just in our family. I was so proud to be able to tell him that I built it myself, and from scratch!!
Jim, THANK YOU A BUNCH!!! See you in Dayton 2004 (I hope) for the third year in a row!
73, Happy New Year!
Tom
N0DSP
(Proud builder of the world famous 2N2-40)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2765|2760|2004-01-05 22:59:13|Lee Mairs|Re: Thanks, Jim...I vote for the 2n/20|Before you guys get too carried away with all this "meet you at Dayton
stuff", Jim also has made Atlanticon for the last several years. I know,
cuz I pick him up at BWI!!
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Little" <n0dsp@msn.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Thanks, Jim...I vote for the 2n/20
> {Jim, K8IQY Wrote}
>
> If you get totally frustrated with troubleshooting it, send
> it to me at my call book address and I'll put it on the bench,
> get it working, and send it back. All it will cost you is
> postage both ways.
>
> 72 and many thanks for the nice feedback,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> Fellow 2N2-?? Builders,
>
> The above message from Jim states it all. Jim is one of the most giving
guys that I have come across in the hobby. When we were all building a
couple years ago, Jim was ALWAYS there to give us encouragement and a
helping hand. Jim has spent countless hours designing the rig, matching
crystals, answering rookie questions (like mine) and troubleshooting rigs
(like mine) and I feel honored to know Jim and consider him a friend.
>
> My first contact with my 2n2-40 was with my Dad, Raymond Little, K9KJD in
Reelsville, Indiana (Colorado to Indiana). My Dad, is responsible for 7
Hams, well just in our family. I was so proud to be able to tell him that I
built it myself, and from scratch!!
>
> Jim, THANK YOU A BUNCH!!! See you in Dayton 2004 (I hope) for the third
year in a row!
>
> 73, Happy New Year!
>
> Tom
> N0DSP
>
> (Proud builder of the world famous 2N2-40)
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Thanks Jim for the offer...but I'll just keep pluggin' a little
longer. I've ordered some new crystals for the 2N2-30. I think
maybe the SERIES type are giving me the problem with the filter.
Maybe the 20pf load will make a difference.
BTW I've posted some pics if anyone wants to take a look in the
WELLS folder.
John Wells
Austin, TX
|
2768|2768|2004-01-06 02:05:49|wb0wao|Well, I Guess I will build another one|I will join my fellow FPQRP brothers and build up another 2N2/40+
(should be easier this time ) and see if I can make it prettier!
Jim, I just ordered your Precision VXO kit from AMQRP and was
wondering if you had the info on the XTAL test fixture. They say on
the site that they will kit it, but don't see it listed anywhere!
I "volunteered" to match up the xtals for the FP group build, so I am
sure it would come in VERY handy!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
2769|2767|2004-01-06 10:49:06|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N2-40, 2N2-30, 2N2-20|At 05:27 AM 1/6/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Thanks Jim for the offer...but I'll just keep pluggin' a little
>longer. I've ordered some new crystals for the 2N2-30. I think
>maybe the SERIES type are giving me the problem with the filter.
That's interesting. I used "series" crystals for mine and it
works fine, in fact, I prefer that type of crystal for filters
as the passband location is more predictable than units designed
to work with a particular load capacitor. As long as the LO crystals
are of the same type, there shouldn't be a problem. If the crystals
are not high Q, however, the filter losses could be too high for
for the rig to work well. I've found that FOX and ECS at the present
time have the highest Q, and work the best.
>
>Maybe the 20pf load will make a difference.
They should be a bit lower in frequency than the series units
so that they oscillate at the marked frequency with a 20pF load
capacitor. Use the same type in the LO.
>
>
>BTW I've posted some pics if anyone wants to take a look in the
>WELLS folder.
OK.....we will do that. Thanks!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 07:05 AM 1/6/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>I will join my fellow FPQRP brothers and build up another 2N2/40+
>(should be easier this time ) and see if I can make it prettier!
Dennis....you're a brave man! :-)
>Jim, I just ordered your Precision VXO kit from AMQRP
Details on building it are here:
http://www.njqrp.org/qhbextra/9/9a.html > and was
>wondering if you had the info on the XTAL test fixture.
Yes, the schematic is also on the NJ-QRP web site here:
http://www.njqrp.org/qhbextra/9/9b.html > They say on
>the site that they will kit it, but don't see it listed anywhere!
Well they didn't kit it as was originally anticipated. The PVXO
kit didn't sell as well as expected, and George got concerned
that the companion test fixture would not sell well also. The
PC layout work is all done, it just never went any farther than
that. You can breadboad one up in less than a day. Pictures
of the prototype are at the above link. I think the old
homebrewer magazines are now online too, so you can get the
text that went along with the pictures. If not, I can send
you the article, since I wrote it! :-)
>I "volunteered" to match up the xtals for the FP group build, so I am
>sure it would come in VERY handy!
Do you have a decent counter and RMS voltmeter or scope? You'll
need those to work with the PVXO and Xtal Test Fixture. I
prefer the RMS voltmeter to the scope, as it is easier to read
and calibrated in dB, so getting the + and - 3 dB frequencies
is a snap. I use an old HP 400EL, but any analog meter that
reads RMS will work.
Let me know how I can help, and I'll try to assist you.
72 and many thanks,
Jim, K8IQY
At 10:59 PM 1/5/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Before you guys get too carried away with all this "meet you at Dayton
>stuff", Jim also has made Atlanticon for the last several years. I know,
>cuz I pick him up at BWI!!
>73 de Lee
>KM4YY
I'm planning that trip again this spring, along with going down
to Missouri in April, and Dayton in May. Life is good!! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Man, I sent a little blurb to the Flying Pig mail list to see if any of them
would be willing to build a 2n2 with me and got 10 responders! We are doing a
little group buy and I will make any left-over parts from the group-buy
available to anyone on this list. I'll post more info later.
I think we can count on the PIGS to add some interesting questions to the
discussion - grin. (Thanks a ton Jim!)
-MAC-
AF4PS
FP-51
2n2-40 #29 (or was it #28?) and now I'm gonna try to make a pretty one!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2773|2772|2004-01-06 19:56:12|Jeff Noel|Re: Flying Pig Group Build|I would be interested in a set of parts for the 2n2-40.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2774|2772|2004-01-06 23:17:03|Larry Howard Mittman|Re: Flying Pig Group Build|-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1
Jeff Noel wrote:
> I would be interested in a set of parts for the 2n2-40.
> Jeff
>
I would also be interested in a set of parts for the 2n2-40, (or is it
the 2n2-40+?).
Larry Mittman
- --
GnuPG Public Key ID: 773C9DDA
================================================
Never cross a Dragon, for you are crunchy and taste delicious!
My Interests are:
Ham Radio (N8MGU) | Opera | Theater | Sailing | Judaica
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
Version: GnuPG v1.2.1 (GNU/Linux)
Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla -
http://enigmail.mozdev.org iD8DBQE/+4g9jR6r4Xc8ndoRApVyAKCkp3Wa8ZaJxNhQqF3BqEv4r+tK9wCgi1c+
Qumnu8vxyJKU0xl3O9Zu87M=
=gtmN
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
Jim,
Got the schematic and it won't take much time to build up -
pretty sure I have everything that is needed!
> I think the old
> homebrewer magazines are now online too, so you can get the
> text that went along with the pictures. If not, I can send
> you the article, since I wrote it! :-)
Couldn't find the textual stuff anywhere on there, so if you could
send it to me, I would appreciate it!
> Do you have a decent counter and RMS voltmeter or scope? You'll
> need those to work with the PVXO and Xtal Test Fixture. I
> prefer the RMS voltmeter to the scope, as it is easier to read
> and calibrated in dB, so getting the + and - 3 dB frequencies
> is a snap. I use an old HP 400EL, but any analog meter that
> reads RMS will work.
Will a DMM that reads "true RMS" work as well?
> Let me know how I can help, and I'll try to assist you.
LOL, I am sure that I will be asking questions...
72 es TNX
Dennis - WB0WAO
I also would be interested in a parts package if its available...
Kennymac
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Howard Mittman" <larrymittman@sbcglobal.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 11:17 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Flying Pig Group Build
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
>
> Jeff Noel wrote:
> > I would be interested in a set of parts for the 2n2-40.
> > Jeff
> >
> I would also be interested in a set of parts for the 2n2-40, (or is it
> the 2n2-40+?).
> Larry Mittman
>
> - --
> GnuPG Public Key ID: 773C9DDA
> ================================================
> Never cross a Dragon, for you are crunchy and taste delicious!
> My Interests are:
> Ham Radio (N8MGU) | Opera | Theater | Sailing | Judaica
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
> Version: GnuPG v1.2.1 (GNU/Linux)
> Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla - http://enigmail.mozdev.org
>
> iD8DBQE/+4g9jR6r4Xc8ndoRApVyAKCkp3Wa8ZaJxNhQqF3BqEv4r+tK9wCgi1c+
> Qumnu8vxyJKU0xl3O9Zu87M=
> =gtmN
> -----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Alrighty, ya got that last spot Jeff! I'm still waiting on final pricing.
I'll check QRZ for your shipping address, that ok? I hope you consider
joining the Flying Pig Club if you are not a member. It's a ton of fun.
-MAC-
AF4PS
FP-51
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Noel" <k4zku@erols.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Flying Pig Group Build
> I would be interested in a set of parts for the 2n2-40.
> Jeff
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Has there actually been one already? I am ready...altho mine needs
some work to get it in a little better shape.
72,
Del, AD6WE
|
2779|2778|2004-01-10 09:37:10|Lee Mairs|Re: 2n2/40 night (another one ?)|The last one was about 2 1/2 years ago. It was just before I finished mine,
so I didn't get to play.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Delbert Long" <AD6WE@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 3:09 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2n2/40 night (another one ?)
> Has there actually been one already? I am ready...altho mine needs
> some work to get it in a little better shape.
>
> 72,
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Gangue -
Some other sources of the other stuff....
Glue - you can find this at a "Dollar Store" for about a buck a tube. One
tube is more than enuf for this project. Make sure that the substrate and
the pads are nice and clean or the pads can (and usually do) come up!
Magnet wahr - I found this at (of all places) Ben Franklin's in the craft
section. If you have a Michaels around, they should have it too. Most
fairly equipped craft/scrapbook stores have "craft wire" - take a magnet to
check it as SOME of it is steel wahr. The stuff I found was tinned (?)
copper wahr with a transparent colored coating (#26). Runs around $3 to $4
for a 15 or so yard roll. Most "real" magnet wahr is red, so get a couple
colors other than red! A couple of spools will last MANY projects!
Hookup wahr - look for teflon insulated stuff - #28 stranded is good for
the runs to the controls, but solid is good for the point to point on the
board - keeps the wahr out of the way of stuff! I am considering using
headers this time, a la the MP+ to make it easier to hook up to the
controls, etc. I used solid "phone type" stuff last time and was not really
happy with the way it worked out - but that is just my opinion
.
Oh, BTW "wahr" if o-fishul "Flying Pigese" for wire
72 es oo
Dennis - WB0WAO
EN84ij Iosco County, Michigan
MultiPig+ #3 - K2 #3555
DSW-II-20 - SW-40+ - SW-30+
RM-20 - RM-40
FPQRP #-347 FISTS #9299
Charter Member - Michigan DX Association
www.wb0wao.com
:=)
_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE online virus check for your PC here, from McAfee.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963Which rx oscillator to use, the one with a 4.7 uh coil to ground in the
output
or the one that has a 22uh coil in series?
Thanks,
Jeff
k4zku@erols.comHas any one tried using 2n3904 or 2n4401 in the low level stages of the
2n2-40? Maybe this is not a recommend thing to do.
Thanks,
Jeff
k4zku@erols.comI used lots of 2N4401s when I ran out of 2N2222s. No problem.
Heresy, but no problem.
72--Nick, WA5BDU
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Noel [mailto:
k4zku@erols.com]
Has any one tried using 2n3904 or 2n4401 in the low level stages of the
2n2-40? Maybe this is not a recommend thing to do. Thanks,
Jeff
k4zku@erols.com--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nick Kennedy"
wrote:
> I used lots of 2N4401s when I ran out of 2N2222s. No problem.
>
> Heresy, but no problem.
>
> 72--Nick, WA5BDU
You think THAT's heresy...one of my stages has a MF9018 out of an old
transistor radio, and the three "finals" are now plastic 2SC1815's
scrounged from an old VCR or TV or something...don't give full 2
watts output, but they work.
I am planning to put metal 2N2222's back in...
72,
Del, AD6WEDel...you are my kind of builder.
I never toss out a VCR without first breaking out the PC Boards of stuff
and applying some heat.
Lot's of good parts in there.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Delbert Long" <AD6WE@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 10:42 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: transistors
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nick Kennedy" wrote:
> > I used lots of 2N4401s when I ran out of 2N2222s. No problem.
> >
> > Heresy, but no problem.
> >
> > 72--Nick, WA5BDU
>
> You think THAT's heresy...one of my stages has a MF9018 out of an old
> transistor radio, and the three "finals" are now plastic 2SC1815's
> scrounged from an old VCR or TV or something...don't give full 2
> watts output, but they work.
>
> I am planning to put metal 2N2222's back in...
>
> 72,
>
> Del, AD6WE
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
At 10:49 PM 1/11/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Del...you are my kind of builder.
>
>I never toss out a VCR without first breaking out the PC Boards of stuff
>and applying some heat.
>
>Lot's of good parts in there.
The same for old wireless telephones. A bonanza of good
parts that can be reused.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 12:36 PM 1/11/2004 -0500, Jeff, k4zku wrote:
>Which rx oscillator to use, the one with a 4.7 uh coil to ground in the
>output
>or the one that has a 22uh coil in series?
I prefer the 22uH series version, although it sometimes is a bit
reluctant to start. The output is cleaner I think, and supplies
more power to the product detector.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 05:19 PM 1/11/2004 -0500, Jeff, k4zku wrote:
>Has any one tried using 2n3904 or 2n4401 in the low level stages of the
>2n2-40? Maybe this is not a recommend thing to do.
Any of those transistors will work fine, in fact, any of the
generic switching/amplifying devices with an Ft at 250 to 300 MHz
will all work nominally the same, so the part selection is quite
broad.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I went to Michaels Crafts yesterday, and in the beading section I found
some usable wire. They had it in 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, and 28 ga....about
8 or 9 different colors.
Here's the skinny:
45ft roll was $3.99, made by a company called Wild Wire and they have a
website at www.jewelry-tools.com
The wire is clearly marked: "Copper Wire - 22 guage"
I haven't wound any roids yet...i may sit down and wind up a few known
values and check them with my meter.
On the website this wire is call 'Art Wire' - I'd call and ASK if it's
copper though. The web wire looks a LITTLE different than the copper
wire I bought.
============================================
Agnus dei, qui tollis pecatta mundi, dona nobis Pacem.
============================================
KB9BVN/QRP QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
GRID: EM69WN - Elecraft K1 - Attic Dipole - 5w
Member of the ARRL - SOC #400
FISTS 5695 CC 764 FPQRP #-57
============================================
|
2790|2789|2004-01-12 16:04:24|Steve White|Re: Colored Wire|I looked at colored "Art Wire" when I was building my 2N240 last
month and I was not confident that the insulation on it would be of
the same quality as we see with normal regular transfomer wire so I
stayed away from it. I hope that this stuff works out because it
beats having to spary paint wire a different color before winding. I
was forutnate to find both green and red wire that had the regular
kind of instulation on it. If this stuff works it will be a great
find.
Steve NU0P
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Murrey" wrote:
> I went to Michaels Crafts yesterday, and in the beading section I
found
> some usable wire. They had it in 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, and 28
ga....about
> 8 or 9 different colors.
>
> Here's the skinny:
>
> 45ft roll was $3.99, made by a company called Wild Wire and they
have a
> website at www.jewelry-tools.com
>
> The wire is clearly marked: "Copper Wire - 22 guage"
>
> I haven't wound any roids yet...i may sit down and wind up a few
known
> values and check them with my meter.
>
> On the website this wire is call 'Art Wire' - I'd call and ASK if
it's
> copper though. The web wire looks a LITTLE different than the copper
> wire I bought.
>
>
> ============================================
> Agnus dei, qui tollis pecatta mundi, dona nobis Pacem.
> ============================================
> KB9BVN/QRP QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
> 39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
> GRID: EM69WN - Elecraft K1 - Attic Dipole - 5w
> Member of the ARRL - SOC #400
> FISTS 5695 CC 764 FPQRP #-57
> ============================================
Hi Brian -
I bought multi-colored wire from Dan's Small Parts. It was definitely worth
it if your experiment fails. I spent weeks trying to find bugs that were
caused by faulty toroid winding!
73 de Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Murrey" <brian@iquest.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 3:21 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Colored Wire
> I went to Michaels Crafts yesterday, and in the beading section I found
> some usable wire. They had it in 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, and 28 ga....about
> 8 or 9 different colors.
>
> Here's the skinny:
>
> 45ft roll was $3.99, made by a company called Wild Wire and they have a
> website at www.jewelry-tools.com
>
> The wire is clearly marked: "Copper Wire - 22 guage"
>
> I haven't wound any roids yet...i may sit down and wind up a few known
> values and check them with my meter.
>
> On the website this wire is call 'Art Wire' - I'd call and ASK if it's
> copper though. The web wire looks a LITTLE different than the copper
> wire I bought.
>
>
> ============================================
> Agnus dei, qui tollis pecatta mundi, dona nobis Pacem.
> ============================================
> KB9BVN/QRP QRP-L 1540 QRP-ARCI 10223
> 39.558 N 86.095 W Johnson Co., Indiana
> GRID: EM69WN - Elecraft K1 - Attic Dipole - 5w
> Member of the ARRL - SOC #400
> FISTS 5695 CC 764 FPQRP #-57
> ============================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hi. Keith here in the Depths of the Great Bergen Swamp
I might be able to get back to the 2n2-40 that I have partially completed
soon, but I have a question.
I have a Small Wonders FreqMite counter/frequency display. Has anyone
integrated one with their 2n2-40? If so, how did it work out?
73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Trustee of the NQ2RP/B 10 M beacon
Technical Coordinator, ARRL WNY Section
Ph - 585.494.1239
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
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|
2793|2793|2004-01-13 21:06:50|instantcrow1|QRPp article?|Hello everyone,
I'm researching the 2n2-40 with the grand intention of building it.
I'd really like to get my hands on the QRPp article which outlines
design/theory considerations and building tips, etc. I haven't been
able to find it so far. Can anyone lend a hand?
Thanks,
Charlie
KC8RFV
an 8lander deep in the concrete jungle of 2land
|
2794|2793|2004-01-13 21:18:09|Steve|Re: QRPp article?|I have looked for it too so if you find it please post it for all of us...I
built mine fine without BTW, you can too.
Steve NU0P
----- Original Message -----
From: "instantcrow1" <cwl3@po.cwru.edu>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 8:06 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] QRPp article?
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm researching the 2n2-40 with the grand intention of building it.
> I'd really like to get my hands on the QRPp article which outlines
> design/theory considerations and building tips, etc. I haven't been
> able to find it so far. Can anyone lend a hand?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
> KC8RFV
> an 8lander deep in the concrete jungle of 2land
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Search the archives for the messages to this group, there is a message that
mentions the article and where to get it. You should probably contact Paul
to see if he still has reprints available before ordering.
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner
john@wagner-usa.net >From: "Steve" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: Re: [2n2-40] QRPp article?
>Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 20:18:03 -0600
>
>I have looked for it too so if you find it please post it for all of us...I
>built mine fine without BTW, you can too.
>
>Steve NU0P
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "instantcrow1" <cwl3@po.cwru.edu>
>To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 8:06 PM
>Subject: [2n2-40] QRPp article?
>
>
> > Hello everyone,
> >
> > I'm researching the 2n2-40 with the grand intention of building it.
> > I'd really like to get my hands on the QRPp article which outlines
> > design/theory considerations and building tips, etc. I haven't been
> > able to find it so far. Can anyone lend a hand?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Charlie
> > KC8RFV
> > an 8lander deep in the concrete jungle of 2land
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Learn how to choose, serve, and enjoy wine at Wine @ MSN.
http://wine.msn.com/Hi Keith,
I did just that and it worked very well. The read out on mine is audio
CW. Mounted it on a standoff near the vfo section. You will also find
Dave Benson to be very helpful in the event that you have any
questions although the enhancement is straight forward.
73,
Arth ws6t
2N2/40 #16
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, wny-tc@j... wrote:
> Hi. Keith here in the Depths of the Great Bergen Swamp
>
> I might be able to get back to the 2n2-40 that I have partially
completed
> soon, but I have a question.
>
> I have a Small Wonders FreqMite counter/frequency display. Has anyone
> integrated one with their 2n2-40? If so, how did it work out?
>
>
> 73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Trustee of the NQ2RP/B 10 M beacon
> Technical Coordinator, ARRL WNY Section
> Ph - 585.494.1239
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
Where on the schematic did you pull off the input signal to the freqmite,
and where did you inject the audio output from the Freqmite?
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arthur Gary Silvers" <ws6t@arrl.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 3:06 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: FreqMite in a 2n2-40?
> Hi Keith,
>
> I did just that and it worked very well. The read out on mine is audio
> CW. Mounted it on a standoff near the vfo section. You will also find
> Dave Benson to be very helpful in the event that you have any
> questions although the enhancement is straight forward.
>
> 73,
> Arth ws6t
> 2N2/40 #16
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, wny-tc@j... wrote:
> > Hi. Keith here in the Depths of the Great Bergen Swamp
> >
> > I might be able to get back to the 2n2-40 that I have partially
> completed
> > soon, but I have a question.
> >
> > I have a Small Wonders FreqMite counter/frequency display. Has anyone
> > integrated one with their 2n2-40? If so, how did it work out?
> >
> >
> > 73, Wm. Keith Hibbert, WB2VUO, Trustee of the NQ2RP/B 10 M beacon
> > Technical Coordinator, ARRL WNY Section
> > Ph - 585.494.1239
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________
> > The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> > Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> > Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Get in touch with Paul, NA5N. It was published by Quick Silver Press, PO
Box 757, Socorro, NM 8780. Beware that you must reference the latest
schematics for the few changes that Jim made between MK1 and Mk2.
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 10:14 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] QRPp article?
> Search the archives for the messages to this group, there is a message
that
> mentions the article and where to get it. You should probably contact Paul
> to see if he still has reprints available before ordering.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
> --
> John Wagner
> john@wagner-usa.net
>
>
>
>
>
> >From: "Steve" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
> >Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> >To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> >Subject: Re: [2n2-40] QRPp article?
> >Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 20:18:03 -0600
> >
> >I have looked for it too so if you find it please post it for all of
us...I
> >built mine fine without BTW, you can too.
> >
> >Steve NU0P
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "instantcrow1" <cwl3@po.cwru.edu>
> >To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> >Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 8:06 PM
> >Subject: [2n2-40] QRPp article?
> >
> >
> > > Hello everyone,
> > >
> > > I'm researching the 2n2-40 with the grand intention of building it.
> > > I'd really like to get my hands on the QRPp article which outlines
> > > design/theory considerations and building tips, etc. I haven't been
> > > able to find it so far. Can anyone lend a hand?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Charlie
> > > KC8RFV
> > > an 8lander deep in the concrete jungle of 2land
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Learn how to choose, serve, and enjoy wine at Wine @ MSN.
> http://wine.msn.com/
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 05:21 PM 1/14/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Get in touch with Paul, NA5N. It was published by Quick Silver Press, PO
>Box 757, Socorro, NM 8780. Beware that you must reference the latest
>schematics for the few changes that Jim made between MK1 and Mk2.
>73 de Lee
>km4yy/8
All,
I sent an email to Paul this morning regarding the availability
of the 2N2/40 QRPp Article reprints. Haven't heard back from
him yet. If and when I do, I'll pass the info along. If all else
fails, I can probably export the article to my PDF maker, and post
it up on Yahoo in the 2n2-40 group. It probably will be large
though, but maybe not too bad. Stay tuned.......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
That would be great Jim if you could get it up on the board for all of us.
I will probably wonder how I got mine done without it.....
Been working on the counter for the radio this evening and have it all
installed now just need to program in the offset for the IF, if I can figure
out how to do that exactly and what freq I should use for that, should it
be 4.9152 + the Bfo freq?
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] QRPp article?
> At 05:21 PM 1/14/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Get in touch with Paul, NA5N. It was published by Quick Silver Press, PO
> >Box 757, Socorro, NM 8780. Beware that you must reference the latest
> >schematics for the few changes that Jim made between MK1 and Mk2.
> >73 de Lee
> >km4yy/8
>
> All,
>
> I sent an email to Paul this morning regarding the availability
> of the 2N2/40 QRPp Article reprints. Haven't heard back from
> him yet. If and when I do, I'll pass the info along. If all else
> fails, I can probably export the article to my PDF maker, and post
> it up on Yahoo in the 2n2-40 group. It probably will be large
> though, but maybe not too bad. Stay tuned.......
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 07:14 PM 1/14/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>That would be great Jim if you could get it up on the board for all of us.
>I will probably wonder how I got mine done without it.....
>
>Been working on the counter for the radio this evening and have it all
>installed now just need to program in the offset for the IF, if I can figure
>out how to do that exactly and what freq I should use for that, should it
>be 4.9152 + the Bfo freq?
Close. If your are going to readout the rig's receive frequency,
it would be the IF, nominally, 4.1952 MHz plus the VFO frequency.
I'm assuming you want your display to show 7+ MHz and follow the
VFO as you raise and lower its frequency. What kind of readout
are you brewing up? Did you get an S-meter circuit to work
also?
72 and keep us posted on your progress.
Jim, K8IQY
The counter does exactly that. I purchased a kit from a ham in Australia
and it reads in the VFO freq and has programmble offsets to handle the IF. I
t uses a LCD display....There is also at least one kit that does the readout
but also has an S-meter built in. My kit has the display capability but
also an D-A chip in so that as it samples the VFO freq it determines if it
is seeing vfo drift or a valid change in freq caused by the op turing the
dial. If it determines that it is vfo drift then it ouputs a small dc
voltage which can go to a varactor and it will counter act the drift. I
think you understand what I am getting at. It will take care of any drift
problems I might have. Anyway the offsets( 30+) you can program in yourself
to whatever you like. So the offset that I would have to add is the IF plus
the or minus the BFO freq? I guess the real question is do I need to
account for the BFO freq at all....Just using the IF 4.1952 might just work
as well but would like it to track with my Corsair II and Omni VI the best
it can.
I am still working on the S-meter. I am not yet happy with what I have at
the moment...I need a bit more sensitivity/amp than what I currently have to
drive the meter well. I am using the audio out of the preamp as opposed to
amplifing and detecting the IF. I have take the audio and run it through an
amp and then driving a couple of diodes but still need a bit more oomph for
the meter.
Steve NU0P
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] QRPp article?
> At 07:14 PM 1/14/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>
> >That would be great Jim if you could get it up on the board for all of
us.
> >I will probably wonder how I got mine done without it.....
> >
> >Been working on the counter for the radio this evening and have it all
> >installed now just need to program in the offset for the IF, if I can
figure
> >out how to do that exactly and what freq I should use for that, should
it
> >be 4.9152 + the Bfo freq?
>
> Close. If your are going to readout the rig's receive frequency,
> it would be the IF, nominally, 4.1952 MHz plus the VFO frequency.
> I'm assuming you want your display to show 7+ MHz and follow the
> VFO as you raise and lower its frequency. What kind of readout
> are you brewing up? Did you get an S-meter circuit to work
> also?
>
> 72 and keep us posted on your progress.
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I'm gathering parts and studying schematics with great excitement.
However, I'm stumped on the toroid schematics. For example, T3 just
before the DB mixer, states "10T trifilar". It is not intuitive,
when looking at the schematic, as to how this is constructed. where
is it tapped, are the wires twisted, etc? I looked through my
handbook, but I'm still confused. I do understand 10T means 10 turns
(I think) and FT37-43 indicates the toroid type.
Any hints, or sources of information, would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Charlie
KC8RFV
|
2804|2803|2004-01-15 11:17:39|J. Wagner|Re: Toroid nomenclature/schematics|Take three pieces of magnetic wire and twist them together. I think it
should be approx 8-12 turns per inch. Wire 1 becomes ends 1/2, wire 2 is 3/4
and wire 3 is 5/6.
My method of twisting:
First off, I *HIGHLY* recommend three different colors of wire. Tie them at
one end, stick a pencil through at the knot and twist, holding the three
wires between your forefinger and thumb, moving down as you go.
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner
john@wagner-usa.net >From: "instantcrow1" <cwl3@po.cwru.edu>
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2n2-40] Toroid nomenclature/schematics
>Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 15:54:44 -0000
>
>I'm gathering parts and studying schematics with great excitement.
>However, I'm stumped on the toroid schematics. For example, T3 just
>before the DB mixer, states "10T trifilar". It is not intuitive,
>when looking at the schematic, as to how this is constructed. where
>is it tapped, are the wires twisted, etc? I looked through my
>handbook, but I'm still confused. I do understand 10T means 10 turns
>(I think) and FT37-43 indicates the toroid type.
>
>Any hints, or sources of information, would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks
>
>Charlie
>KC8RFV
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Scope out the new MSN Plus Internet Software � optimizes dial-up to the max!
http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/plus&ST=1Where can the MV1662 varicap be purchased?
I need 2 each.
Thanks,
Jeff
k4zku@erols.comI twisted mine together by chucking one end of the wires up in a drill.
73 de Lee
km4yy
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Wagner" <john@wagner-usa.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 11:17 AM
Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Toroid nomenclature/schematics
> Take three pieces of magnetic wire and twist them together. I think it
> should be approx 8-12 turns per inch. Wire 1 becomes ends 1/2, wire 2 is
3/4
> and wire 3 is 5/6.
>
> My method of twisting:
>
> First off, I *HIGHLY* recommend three different colors of wire. Tie them
at
> one end, stick a pencil through at the knot and twist, holding the three
> wires between your forefinger and thumb, moving down as you go.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
> --
> John Wagner
> john@wagner-usa.net
>
>
>
>
>
> >From: "instantcrow1" <cwl3@po.cwru.edu>
> >Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> >To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [2n2-40] Toroid nomenclature/schematics
> >Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 15:54:44 -0000
> >
> >I'm gathering parts and studying schematics with great excitement.
> >However, I'm stumped on the toroid schematics. For example, T3 just
> >before the DB mixer, states "10T trifilar". It is not intuitive,
> >when looking at the schematic, as to how this is constructed. where
> >is it tapped, are the wires twisted, etc? I looked through my
> >handbook, but I'm still confused. I do understand 10T means 10 turns
> >(I think) and FT37-43 indicates the toroid type.
> >
> >Any hints, or sources of information, would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Charlie
> >KC8RFV
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Scope out the new MSN Plus Internet Software - optimizes dial-up to the
max!
> http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/plus&ST=1
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hi Lee and greetings to Jim, Keith, et. al.,
I suspected that I would be quizzed on this one. Truth is, the rig is at
our vacation home that we will not be visiting until sometime in
February. It has been quit a while since installing the Freqmite but it
wasn't difficult at all and it worked right off the bat. The Freqmite is
programmable for any IF and is well documented so even I could install
it 8~}. As best as I can recall, the input was pulled directly from the
VFO output and the audio was injected in the audio chain following the
product detector. Although there may be other strategies, I am, however,
confident that anyone in this discussion group can successfully install
this neat freq counter into any 2N2/XX.
Also using a TIC-3 keyer in an Altoids tin.
BTW, did I mention earning the ARCI QRP 1000 mi/watt award with my 2N2/40?
73s and glad this group is still active,
Arth ws6t (prev w6ags)
2N2/40 #16
|
2808|2792|2004-01-16 11:59:41|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: FreqMite in a 2n2-40?|At 09:15 AM 1/13/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi. Keith here in the Depths of the Great Bergen Swamp
>
>I might be able to get back to the 2n2-40 that I have partially completed
>soon, but I have a question.
>
>I have a Small Wonders FreqMite counter/frequency display. Has anyone
>integrated one with their 2n2-40? If so, how did it work out?
Keith,
I haven't put a FreqMite into a 2N2/XX rig, but it should work fine.
I'd be inclined to take the VFO signal off of the Q2 buffer amp with
a small capacitor, maybe 10-47 pF; whatever is required to drive
the FM. I'd take the audio output through a 10K trim pot and
0.1 uF capacitor into the base of Q9 of the 4 transistor output
amplifier. The trim cap will let you set the FM audio level, and the
normal receive audio and the FM audio will get summed at the input of the
2N2/XX audio amplifier.
Let us know what you end up doing, and how it works. I think I have
an old FM around here somewhere; maybe I'll put it into my 2N2/40+
to see how it plays.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 10:16 PM 1/14/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>The counter does exactly that. I purchased a kit from a ham in Australia
>and it reads in the VFO freq and has programmble offsets to handle the IF. I
>t uses a LCD display....There is also at least one kit that does the readout
>but also has an S-meter built in. My kit has the display capability but
>also an D-A chip in so that as it samples the VFO freq it determines if it
>is seeing vfo drift or a valid change in freq caused by the op turing the
>dial. If it determines that it is vfo drift then it ouputs a small dc
>voltage which can go to a varactor and it will counter act the drift.
Aha....Huff and Puff capability built in. Neat!!
> I
>think you understand what I am getting at.
Yes, I sure do.
> It will take care of any drift
>problems I might have. Anyway the offsets( 30+) you can program in yourself
>to whatever you like. So the offset that I would have to add is the IF plus
>the or minus the BFO freq?
Well the BFO (LO) and the IF center differ in frequency by the CW
tone you setup when the receiver is aligned. At most that is
probably 800 Hz, and for most folks, is either 700 or 750 Hz.
> I guess the real question is do I need to
>account for the BFO freq at all....
I think the issue is do you use the center frequency of the IF or
use the BFO (LO) frequency for the offset. One will give you
the actual frequency the receiver is tuned to, and the other
about 700 Hz lower than that.
Just using the IF 4.1952 might just work
>as well but would like it to track with my Corsair II and Omni VI the best
>it can.
To do that you need to be away how the Corsair and Omni are setup
in terms of frequency readout.
>I am still working on the S-meter. I am not yet happy with what I have at
>the moment...I need a bit more sensitivity/amp than what I currently have to
>drive the meter well. I am using the audio out of the preamp as opposed to
>amplifing and detecting the IF. I have take the audio and run it through an
>amp and then driving a couple of diodes but still need a bit more oomph for
>the meter.
What kind of amp are you using? If you are using an audio derived
signal, then op-amps would be a good choice.
Thanks for the update....sounds like you are having lots of fun.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:54 PM 1/15/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>I'm gathering parts and studying schematics with great excitement.
>However, I'm stumped on the toroid schematics. For example, T3 just
>before the DB mixer, states "10T trifilar". It is not intuitive,
>when looking at the schematic, as to how this is constructed.
> where
>is it tapped, are the wires twisted, etc? I looked through my
>handbook, but I'm still confused. I do understand 10T means 10 turns
>(I think) and FT37-43 indicates the toroid type.
>
>Any hints, or sources of information, would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks
>
>Charlie
>KC8RFV
Hi Charlie,
Actually the schematic shows all of the pertinent information
if you understand how bifilar and trifilar transformers are constructed.
That's where the issue is. I'm a bit surprised the handbook doesn't
show how to wind bifilar and trifilar transformers; my older versions
sure do. That aside, here is how it's done.
Since the cores being used are small, T37 size, (that's 0.37 inch in
diameter) you need to use reasonably fine magnet wire. Either #28 or #30
is suitable. For bifilar, two strands of wire are required, and for
trifilar, three strands of wire are required. In either case, the
two/three strands are twisted together at 8 to 10 turns per inch. I
do this with an electric drill, and wind up a fairly long length (
3 to 4 feet) at one time. Using colored wires helps a lot if you are
a new builder, since when the core is wound, you need to identify the
start and end of each winding (strand). After winding the required turns on
the core using the 2 wire or 3 wire bundle, you untwist the wires up
to the toroid, and tin all of the ends. For a bifilar wound toroid,
that 4 ends, and for a trifilar, 6 ends. The numbers in the schematic
show where the ends get connected. In the case of T3 for example,
the start of a winding is #1, and the end is #2. End #1 goes to
C15, and end #2 go to ground. This is the primary of the transformer,
but you really don't need to know that to wire it up correctly.
Another winding, end #3 (start) gets connected to diodes
D1 and D4, and end #4 (end) goes to ground. End #5 (start) of
the remaining winding goes to ground, and end #6 (finish) goes
to diodes D2 and D3. These two winding constitute the secondary
of the transformer.
Sometimes, dots are used to denote the start of a winding; that
was done with transformer T6. Dots also convey phasing information,
when it is important to the operation of the circuit. The Rx
RF Amplifier will not amplify, but oscillate like a banshee if
the leads of the 1-turn winding on the primary are reversed. In
other circuits, it might not make any difference, so the phasing
dots are omitted.
There.....a simple tutorial on bifilar and trifilar transformers
off the top of my head. What other information can I add that will
help your understanding?
72 and happy building Charlie, (and others)
Jim, K8IQY
JIm
Fun is right. Regarding the s-meter I have been using 2N2222's to be loyal
to the design concept. I have looked at the op-amp approach but wanted to
use the 2N2222 approach to start with. Eventually I would like to get some
AGC going as well, since I am lazy and do not like to have sit on RF gain
control all the time.
Soon I can get some details up on the board as to what I did and how I did
it for everyone.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] QRPp article?
> At 10:16 PM 1/14/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>
> >The counter does exactly that. I purchased a kit from a ham in Australia
> >and it reads in the VFO freq and has programmble offsets to handle the
IF. I
> >t uses a LCD display....There is also at least one kit that does the
readout
> >but also has an S-meter built in. My kit has the display capability but
> >also an D-A chip in so that as it samples the VFO freq it determines if
it
> >is seeing vfo drift or a valid change in freq caused by the op turing the
> >dial. If it determines that it is vfo drift then it ouputs a small dc
> >voltage which can go to a varactor and it will counter act the drift.
>
> Aha....Huff and Puff capability built in. Neat!!
>
> > I
> >think you understand what I am getting at.
>
> Yes, I sure do.
>
> > It will take care of any drift
> >problems I might have. Anyway the offsets( 30+) you can program in
yourself
> >to whatever you like. So the offset that I would have to add is the IF
plus
> >the or minus the BFO freq?
>
> Well the BFO (LO) and the IF center differ in frequency by the CW
> tone you setup when the receiver is aligned. At most that is
> probably 800 Hz, and for most folks, is either 700 or 750 Hz.
>
> > I guess the real question is do I need to
> >account for the BFO freq at all....
>
> I think the issue is do you use the center frequency of the IF or
> use the BFO (LO) frequency for the offset. One will give you
> the actual frequency the receiver is tuned to, and the other
> about 700 Hz lower than that.
>
> Just using the IF 4.1952 might just work
> >as well but would like it to track with my Corsair II and Omni VI the
best
> >it can.
>
> To do that you need to be away how the Corsair and Omni are setup
> in terms of frequency readout.
>
>
> >I am still working on the S-meter. I am not yet happy with what I have
at
> >the moment...I need a bit more sensitivity/amp than what I currently have
to
> >drive the meter well. I am using the audio out of the preamp as opposed
to
> >amplifing and detecting the IF. I have take the audio and run it through
an
> >amp and then driving a couple of diodes but still need a bit more oomph
for
> >the meter.
>
> What kind of amp are you using? If you are using an audio derived
> signal, then op-amps would be a good choice.
>
> Thanks for the update....sounds like you are having lots of fun.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
At 11:26 AM 1/15/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Where can the MV1662 varicap be purchased?
>I need 2 each.
>Thanks,
>
>Jeff
MV1662s are available from Hosfelt Electronics, 1-800-524-6464.
Buy the matched sets of 3, part number MV1662/S for $1.00. My
advice is to buy several sets, as someday these will all be gone,
and then we're going to have to get our varicap diodes from
overseas sources, and they won't be at 3 for a buck!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
All,
I got a reply from Paul Harden, NA5N this morning, and here is the
skinny on the original 2N2/40 reprint, in Paul's words.....
"I checked last night, and I have about 100 of them left, at least
bound. I may have the pages in a box somewhere to make even more if
needed ... but a good 100 ready to go.
I think we sold them before for $12, which INCLUDES postage to US/VE,
etc. Still sounds good to me.
Orders should be sent to:
RADIO RANCH
P.O. BOX 1768
SOCORRO, NM 87801"
Soooo, if you would like to get the reprint, they are still
available for $12 including postage from Paul at the address
above. You won't find a better set of illustrations on a radio
design anywhere, guaranteed. Paul's work is stellar!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Yahoo! Groups Links
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|
2814|2793|2004-01-29 11:06:02|Lee Mairs|Re: QRPp article?|I agree with Jim's words. Paul's book is wonderful as both an inspiration
to start the project and as an insight as to one way to go about
accomplishing your construction of a scratch-built, state of the art, high
performance, 40 meter CW transceiver. It is just plain fun to read and
re-read this little book, and Paul's illustrations are delightful.
However, one caveat, be certain to check Paul's layout guidance with the
latest schematic, and follow the parts selection defined in the latest
2N2-40 schematics. I found Paul's pictures great to get me started on
exactly what all this Manhattan construction was all about, and about half
way through the project I'd developed enough confidence to put the parts
down without checking the book illustrations. (Hmmm, this may explain my
problems with a birdie!)
You can't go wrong with this $12, even if you've already built the rig!
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] QRPp article?
>
> All,
>
> I got a reply from Paul Harden, NA5N this morning, and here is the
> skinny on the original 2N2/40 reprint, in Paul's words.....
>
> "I checked last night, and I have about 100 of them left, at least
> bound. I may have the pages in a box somewhere to make even more if
> needed ... but a good 100 ready to go.
> I think we sold them before for $12, which INCLUDES postage to US/VE,
> etc. Still sounds good to me.
>
> Orders should be sent to:
> RADIO RANCH
> P.O. BOX 1768
> SOCORRO, NM 87801"
>
> Soooo, if you would like to get the reprint, they are still
> available for $12 including postage from Paul at the address
> above. You won't find a better set of illustrations on a radio
> design anywhere, guaranteed. Paul's work is stellar!!
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
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>
>
>
Jim,
Did Paul incorporate your errata sheet? I seem to remember some confusion
about some of the original illustrations. (I have - somewhere - the QRPp
article and a subsequent post you made to QRP-L with some corrections.)
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] QRPp article?
>
> All,
>
> I got a reply from Paul Harden, NA5N this morning, and here is the
> skinny on the original 2N2/40 reprint, in Paul's words.....
>
> "I checked last night, and I have about 100 of them left, at least
> bound. I may have the pages in a box somewhere to make even more if
> needed ... but a good 100 ready to go.
> I think we sold them before for $12, which INCLUDES postage to US/VE,
> etc. Still sounds good to me.
>
> Orders should be sent to:
> RADIO RANCH
> P.O. BOX 1768
> SOCORRO, NM 87801"
>
> Soooo, if you would like to get the reprint, they are still
> available for $12 including postage from Paul at the address
> above. You won't find a better set of illustrations on a radio
> design anywhere, guaranteed. Paul's work is stellar!!
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> ---
> Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
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>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
At 11:17 AM 1/29/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Did Paul incorporate your errata sheet? I seem to remember some confusion
>about some of the original illustrations. (I have - somewhere - the QRPp
>article and a subsequent post you made to QRP-L with some corrections.)
>
>-MAC-
>AF4PS
>Odessa, FL
Hi Mac,
No, the errata sheets are still on my web site at www.qsl.net/k8iqy
I think there might be a copy on the Yahoo reflector too, but will
have to go there and check.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Well here is a new 20n-40. It receives very well .4uV according to the HP
8657b sig gen. It has plenty of volume and I did not know the 40M CW was
that active who said CW is dead? Now my problem is I cant get it on USB it
is on LSB I know this because I can hear the VE's on phone just fine.Also
when tuning the CW down band toward 7.0 the CW starts out high in pitch and
goes low. I have tried several crystals in the rx bfo, added a pad cap
across the TC5 all up 100pf and still not far enough. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Jeff
k4zku@erols.comAt 04:55 PM 1/31/2004 -0500, Jeff, k4zku wrote:
>Well here is a new 20n-40. It receives very well .4uV according to the HP
>8657b sig gen.
Wonderful!! That's that way its supposed to work. Congrats.
> It has plenty of volume and I did not know the 40M CW was
>that active who said CW is dead? Now my problem is I cant get it on USB it
>is on LSB I know this because I can hear the VE's on phone just fine.
Yep....it sure is on LSB. You should not be able to copy those VEs.
>Also
>when tuning the CW down band toward 7.0 the CW starts out high in pitch and
>goes low. I have tried several crystals in the rx bfo, added a pad cap
>across the TC5 all up 100pf and still not far enough. Any thoughts?
Yes, change the inductor from 39 uH to 47 uH and see it that will
get the crystal low enough. I've not seen this problem before, but
then I don't know the source of your crystals for the filter and LO.
If the LO oscillator won't start with the 47 uH, then add a smaller
inductor (2.2 to maybe 6.8 uH) in series with the 39 uH. We've got
to get the LO down to the other side of the passband of the crystal
filter.
72 and by all means keep us posted on your efforts/results.
Jim, K8IQY
Jim es Gangue..
I have all the equipment now for matching/measuring xtals -
WIIIGIII! But have a couple ?? for Jim...
In determining Lm, Cm and Q - what is the "unit" for Fs (Hz or
MHz), i.e. is Fs 3999170 or 3.999170 for example when entering it
into the calculations. I think it is 3.999170 in the above example,
otherwise I have a couple xtals with Q's of 31.2^e6!
DeltaF - entered into the equation as Hz? i.e.,
Lm=(25+20.25/(2*PI*20)) where the DeltaF is 20 Hz??
BTW, I found on the 4MHz CPU xtals I am experimenting with, to get a
good peak, I had to go down in frequency. This is actually kinda
fun to figure all this out! Now if I could figure all this out
using a slide rule !!
72 es oo
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
2820|2820|2004-02-03 14:52:07|macstein@aol.com|Re: Xtal Filter Update (and group buy)|Good news Dennis! The Crystal order for the Flying Pig group buy is now in,
and the rest of the Mouser order will go in this week. For those who have
told me you are in on the group buy, please send me those $68.00 checks ASAP.
I think I will have two extra "kits" if anyone still wants in... a couple of
people have backed out. First two emails I receive gets 'em.
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
FP -51
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2821|2820|2004-02-03 19:36:25|Larry Howard Mittman|Re: Xtal Filter Update (and group buy)|-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1
macstein@aol.com wrote:
> Good news Dennis! The Crystal order for the Flying Pig group buy is now
> in,
> and the rest of the Mouser order will go in this week. For those who have
> told me you are in on the group buy, please send me those $68.00 checks
> ASAP.
>
> I think I will have two extra "kits" if anyone still wants in... a
> couple of
> people have backed out. First two emails I receive gets 'em.
>
> -MAC-
> AF4PS
> Odessa, FL
> FP -51
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> *Yahoo! Groups Sponsor*
> ADVERTISEMENT
> click here
>
<
http://rd.yahoo.com/SIG=12c89qs1k/M=268585.4464812.5643763.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705063108:HM/EXP=1075924329/A=1950447/R=0/*http://ashnin.com/clk/muryutaitakenattogyo?YH=4464812&yhad=1950447>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *Yahoo! Groups Links*
>
> * To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>
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> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
Could you count me in??????? PLEASE???!!!??? :-)
72
Larry
- --
GnuPG Public Key ID: 773C9DDA
================================================
Never cross a Dragon, for you are crunchy and taste delicious!
My Interests are:
Ham Radio (N8MGU) | Opera | Theater | Sailing | Judaica
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Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla -
http://enigmail.mozdev.org iD8DBQFAID6EjR6r4Xc8ndoRAuO9AKCO6urcwKZWEmKXx+ylYwMLe0fA3ACfcGWZ
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MAC
What company did you order the crystals from and the part number?
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2823|2820|2004-02-04 11:38:42|Rev. Mac Steinmeyer|Re: Xtal Filter Update (and group buy)|Hi Jeff,
We ordered a huge batch of the Fox 4.1915MHz crystals from Mouser. Part
number is 559-FOX-049-20. (These are the 20pF parallel). Do you want me to
have Dennis match a set for you?
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Noel" <k4zku@erols.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Xtal Filter Update (and group buy)
> MAC
>
> What company did you order the crystals from and the part number?
> Jeff
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I am cleaning up some final items on my 2N240. Both of these can be
annoying and I bet you know the answers to these.
1.My vfo drifts downward in freq and it nevers seems to bottom out,
just keeps drifting down over the 3-4 hours that I ran numbers on
it.Do you have any recommended suggestions on what caps to change and
where to start with the stabilization efforts?
2. My vfo is also not very linear. The first copule of turns of the
pot move my received freq an awful lot compared to the last 6 turns
or so. I have heard of a couple of different fixes for this, one of
them involve adding a fixed value resistor across the tuning pot.
Any other ideas on a fix for this??
Thanks
Steve NU0P
|
2825|2824|2004-02-07 19:17:27|Jeff Noel|Re: VFO Drift and Linearization of VFO|I am using a NTE 618 for the varicap diode.
There is a 15k ohm from the top of the 10 turn tune pot to the arm (rotor).
Seems to tune good but there slow down in frequency change toward the high end. Drift seems to be ok here just on start up for about 2 min then holds good for hours. did you use the correct type caps in the VFO tuned circuit?
What type of crystals are you using?
Just my thoughts
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2826|2824|2004-02-07 19:47:55|Steve|Re: VFO Drift and Linearization of VFO|Jeff
I am using the same variap as you and have all the correct temp compensation
caps in place ie: NP0,Pplystyrene etc. I have not added the vfo resistor
yet however. I get some pretty big movements in the vfo 2-4Khz range over
2 hours or so. So if your drift is normal then mine is way out and must have
some bad componenets somewhere. I monitor and read the vfo freq directly
and refer to that, not the transmitted freq so am not sure that the crystals
I use make any difference.
Are you seeing less than 1Khz drift over those 2 minutes?? I have a digital
readout on the radio and consequently see the drift perhaps a lot more than
you might.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Noel" <k4zku@erols.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2004 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] VFO Drift and Linearization of VFO
> I am using a NTE 618 for the varicap diode.
> There is a 15k ohm from the top of the 10 turn tune pot to the arm
(rotor).
>
> Seems to tune good but there slow down in frequency change toward the high
end. Drift seems to be ok here just on start up for about 2 min then holds
good for hours. did you use the correct type caps in the VFO tuned circuit?
> What type of crystals are you using?
> Just my thoughts
>
> Jeff
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Just a heads up but Parts and Kits (
http://www.partsandkits.com )
has an excellent deal on MVAM109 Varactor Diodes 5/$5.00
You aren't going to find a better price on these (probably not even
close) than a buck apiece
J. R.
At 10:51 PM 2/7/2004 +0000, Steve, NU0P wrote:
>I am cleaning up some final items on my 2N240. Both of these can be
>annoying and I bet you know the answers to these.
>
>1.My vfo drifts downward in freq and it nevers seems to bottom out,
Interesting, especially the part about it not stopping. Usually,
a VFO will drift one way as it starts to warm up, and then reverse
direction as all of the components come up to temperature. That fact
that it is going down suggests the VFO inductor is the primary
culprit, or, there is not near enough capacitance with a negative
temperature coefficient to balance its drift out.
>just keeps drifting down over the 3-4 hours that I ran numbers on
>it.Do you have any recommended suggestions on what caps to change and
>where to start with the stabilization efforts?
Well I'd need to have some more details of the components used
in the VFO before suggesting the correct fix. What kind of toroid
core did you use for the VFO inductor? What size wire is it wound
with? What types of capacitors are used in various areas of the
VFO that are not bypass capacitors? Are any of the capacitors
polystyrene? If not, are they NPO (COG) types. How large are
the capacitors used physically? Is the toroid wound with either
26 or 28 guage wire. Larger may not let the windings be tight
against the core. Have you tried temperature cycling the wound
core by boiling it in hot water and letting it cool. This will
stress relive the windings and can sometimes make a big difference
in drift characteristics.
>2. My vfo is also not very linear. The first copule of turns of the
>pot move my received freq an awful lot compared to the last 6 turns
>or so. I have heard of a couple of different fixes for this, one of
>them involve adding a fixed value resistor across the tuning pot.
>Any other ideas on a fix for this??
A properly sized resistor in parallel with a pot end and wiper
can improve the linearity. I think one is shown in the schematic.
It has to be applied correctly, i.e., the correct end, or it will
make the problem worse. Make sure the tuning pot is wired correctly.
Sometimes, the wiper isn't the center terminal, but one of the ends.
I'm currently down in Florida, so don't have my design books on
the 2N2 rigs with me.
Keep me posted on what you find, and do.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim
I found the problem with the linearization of the VFO, I had a 1.5k
resistor across the pot not the 15K that is part of the design. So I
changed to the 15K and all is acceptable now.
I am taking data on the vfo drifting and will get back to you on
that. One thing that you should know is that I have the power supply
built into the box and the regulator is generating a bit of heat an d
adds to the drifting of course. If I use an external supply, the
drift is much better and I think I consider it acceptable that way.
Steve Glad your staying warm in Florida, catch some fish for me.
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 10:51 PM 2/7/2004 +0000, Steve, NU0P wrote:
>
> >I am cleaning up some final items on my 2N240. Both of these can be
> >annoying and I bet you know the answers to these.
> >
> >1.My vfo drifts downward in freq and it nevers seems to bottom out,
>
> Interesting, especially the part about it not stopping. Usually,
> a VFO will drift one way as it starts to warm up, and then reverse
> direction as all of the components come up to temperature. That
fact
> that it is going down suggests the VFO inductor is the primary
> culprit, or, there is not near enough capacitance with a negative
> temperature coefficient to balance its drift out.
>
> >just keeps drifting down over the 3-4 hours that I ran numbers on
> >it.Do you have any recommended suggestions on what caps to change
and
> >where to start with the stabilization efforts?
>
> Well I'd need to have some more details of the components used
> in the VFO before suggesting the correct fix. What kind of toroid
> core did you use for the VFO inductor? What size wire is it wound
> with? What types of capacitors are used in various areas of the
> VFO that are not bypass capacitors? Are any of the capacitors
> polystyrene? If not, are they NPO (COG) types. How large are
> the capacitors used physically? Is the toroid wound with either
> 26 or 28 guage wire. Larger may not let the windings be tight
> against the core. Have you tried temperature cycling the wound
> core by boiling it in hot water and letting it cool. This will
> stress relive the windings and can sometimes make a big difference
> in drift characteristics.
>
>
> >2. My vfo is also not very linear. The first copule of turns of the
> >pot move my received freq an awful lot compared to the last 6 turns
> >or so. I have heard of a couple of different fixes for this, one
of
> >them involve adding a fixed value resistor across the tuning pot.
> >Any other ideas on a fix for this??
>
> A properly sized resistor in parallel with a pot end and wiper
> can improve the linearity. I think one is shown in the schematic.
> It has to be applied correctly, i.e., the correct end, or it will
> make the problem worse. Make sure the tuning pot is wired
correctly.
> Sometimes, the wiper isn't the center terminal, but one of the ends.
>
> I'm currently down in Florida, so don't have my design books on
> the 2N2 rigs with me.
>
> Keep me posted on what you find, and do.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Good catch, Steve! Hope to work you 2N to 2N one of these days.
How about checking for the presence of a birdy between 7.020 and 7.025. I
had a devilish time getting that one quiet enough to be acceptable. I ended
up building a pc board fence surrounding the VFO between the transmitter,
receiver LO and if strip. I'd be interested in your experience.
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve White" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 12:04 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: VFO Drift and Linearization of VFO
> Jim
>
> I found the problem with the linearization of the VFO, I had a 1.5k
> resistor across the pot not the 15K that is part of the design. So I
> changed to the 15K and all is acceptable now.
>
> I am taking data on the vfo drifting and will get back to you on
> that. One thing that you should know is that I have the power supply
> built into the box and the regulator is generating a bit of heat an d
> adds to the drifting of course. If I use an external supply, the
> drift is much better and I think I consider it acceptable that way.
>
> Steve Glad your staying warm in Florida, catch some fish for me.
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
> wrote:
> > At 10:51 PM 2/7/2004 +0000, Steve, NU0P wrote:
> >
> > >I am cleaning up some final items on my 2N240. Both of these can be
> > >annoying and I bet you know the answers to these.
> > >
> > >1.My vfo drifts downward in freq and it nevers seems to bottom out,
> >
> > Interesting, especially the part about it not stopping. Usually,
> > a VFO will drift one way as it starts to warm up, and then reverse
> > direction as all of the components come up to temperature. That
> fact
> > that it is going down suggests the VFO inductor is the primary
> > culprit, or, there is not near enough capacitance with a negative
> > temperature coefficient to balance its drift out.
> >
> > >just keeps drifting down over the 3-4 hours that I ran numbers on
> > >it.Do you have any recommended suggestions on what caps to change
> and
> > >where to start with the stabilization efforts?
> >
> > Well I'd need to have some more details of the components used
> > in the VFO before suggesting the correct fix. What kind of toroid
> > core did you use for the VFO inductor? What size wire is it wound
> > with? What types of capacitors are used in various areas of the
> > VFO that are not bypass capacitors? Are any of the capacitors
> > polystyrene? If not, are they NPO (COG) types. How large are
> > the capacitors used physically? Is the toroid wound with either
> > 26 or 28 guage wire. Larger may not let the windings be tight
> > against the core. Have you tried temperature cycling the wound
> > core by boiling it in hot water and letting it cool. This will
> > stress relive the windings and can sometimes make a big difference
> > in drift characteristics.
> >
> >
> > >2. My vfo is also not very linear. The first copule of turns of the
> > >pot move my received freq an awful lot compared to the last 6 turns
> > >or so. I have heard of a couple of different fixes for this, one
> of
> > >them involve adding a fixed value resistor across the tuning pot.
> > >Any other ideas on a fix for this??
> >
> > A properly sized resistor in parallel with a pot end and wiper
> > can improve the linearity. I think one is shown in the schematic.
> > It has to be applied correctly, i.e., the correct end, or it will
> > make the problem worse. Make sure the tuning pot is wired
> correctly.
> > Sometimes, the wiper isn't the center terminal, but one of the ends.
> >
> > I'm currently down in Florida, so don't have my design books on
> > the 2N2 rigs with me.
> >
> > Keep me posted on what you find, and do.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Lee,
I have that birdie also. I will try a shield like you did. Did you put a top on it?
How high was the shield?
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2832|2824|2004-02-09 16:20:33|Lee Mairs|Re: VFO Drift and Linearization of VFO|My shield was only about two inches tall and only on two sides. I'll send
you a photo.
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Noel" <k4zku@erols.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: VFO Drift and Linearization of VFO
> Lee,
>
> I have that birdie also. I will try a shield like you did. Did you put a
top on it?
> How high was the shield?
>
> Jeff
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Lee
I do not have that birde that you have. At one time I heard it quite loudly
but now that the radio is in it's case and have run RG-174 in a couple of
places I do not hear it any more. I used RF-174 from the output of the vfo
to the input of the rx and tx mixers. I am not sure that is what cured it
but that is my configuration.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@sagcorp.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: VFO Drift and Linearization of VFO
> Good catch, Steve! Hope to work you 2N to 2N one of these days.
>
> How about checking for the presence of a birdy between 7.020 and 7.025. I
> had a devilish time getting that one quiet enough to be acceptable. I
ended
> up building a pc board fence surrounding the VFO between the transmitter,
> receiver LO and if strip. I'd be interested in your experience.
>
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy/8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve White" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 12:04 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: VFO Drift and Linearization of VFO
>
>
> > Jim
> >
> > I found the problem with the linearization of the VFO, I had a 1.5k
> > resistor across the pot not the 15K that is part of the design. So I
> > changed to the 15K and all is acceptable now.
> >
> > I am taking data on the vfo drifting and will get back to you on
> > that. One thing that you should know is that I have the power supply
> > built into the box and the regulator is generating a bit of heat an d
> > adds to the drifting of course. If I use an external supply, the
> > drift is much better and I think I consider it acceptable that way.
> >
> > Steve Glad your staying warm in Florida, catch some fish for me.
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
> > wrote:
> > > At 10:51 PM 2/7/2004 +0000, Steve, NU0P wrote:
> > >
> > > >I am cleaning up some final items on my 2N240. Both of these can be
> > > >annoying and I bet you know the answers to these.
> > > >
> > > >1.My vfo drifts downward in freq and it nevers seems to bottom out,
> > >
> > > Interesting, especially the part about it not stopping. Usually,
> > > a VFO will drift one way as it starts to warm up, and then reverse
> > > direction as all of the components come up to temperature. That
> > fact
> > > that it is going down suggests the VFO inductor is the primary
> > > culprit, or, there is not near enough capacitance with a negative
> > > temperature coefficient to balance its drift out.
> > >
> > > >just keeps drifting down over the 3-4 hours that I ran numbers on
> > > >it.Do you have any recommended suggestions on what caps to change
> > and
> > > >where to start with the stabilization efforts?
> > >
> > > Well I'd need to have some more details of the components used
> > > in the VFO before suggesting the correct fix. What kind of toroid
> > > core did you use for the VFO inductor? What size wire is it wound
> > > with? What types of capacitors are used in various areas of the
> > > VFO that are not bypass capacitors? Are any of the capacitors
> > > polystyrene? If not, are they NPO (COG) types. How large are
> > > the capacitors used physically? Is the toroid wound with either
> > > 26 or 28 guage wire. Larger may not let the windings be tight
> > > against the core. Have you tried temperature cycling the wound
> > > core by boiling it in hot water and letting it cool. This will
> > > stress relive the windings and can sometimes make a big difference
> > > in drift characteristics.
> > >
> > >
> > > >2. My vfo is also not very linear. The first copule of turns of the
> > > >pot move my received freq an awful lot compared to the last 6 turns
> > > >or so. I have heard of a couple of different fixes for this, one
> > of
> > > >them involve adding a fixed value resistor across the tuning pot.
> > > >Any other ideas on a fix for this??
> > >
> > > A properly sized resistor in parallel with a pot end and wiper
> > > can improve the linearity. I think one is shown in the schematic.
> > > It has to be applied correctly, i.e., the correct end, or it will
> > > make the problem worse. Make sure the tuning pot is wired
> > correctly.
> > > Sometimes, the wiper isn't the center terminal, but one of the ends.
> > >
> > > I'm currently down in Florida, so don't have my design books on
> > > the 2N2 rigs with me.
> > >
> > > Keep me posted on what you find, and do.
> > >
> > > 72,
> > >
> > > Jim, K8IQY
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hi gang. The crystal order came through and now Dennis has set about the
task of matching them. The Mouser order will happen this week.
If you haven't sent your $68 to me, please do so as soon as convenient, and
I'll confirm your participation.
Thanks.
Mac Steinmeyer
AF4PS/ FP-51
13215 Royal George Ave.
Odesa, FL 33556
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2835|2835|2004-02-11 17:27:42|kcia1124|mouser p/n? AND magnet wire|Greetings,
I am hoping you piggies (or others) will share some mouser part
numbers with the rest of us (well, me). What p/n's are you ordering
for the potentiometers, or are you using another source?
For the any of the group, I'm looking for 1/4lb rolls of magnet wire
in different colors. I know Dan's has 10' sections, or so, or I could
get out the spray paint for my own psychedelic colors, but I'd like
to minimize some of the aggrevation, and get the wires pre-colored.
Any help is appreciated.
Kenyon Cox
WD8INS
Belpre, OH
|
2836|2835|2004-02-11 19:17:10|Steve|Re: mouser p/n? AND magnet wire|I found a package of multicolored and multisized magnet wire at Radio Shack,
I ended up with green and red that were the same size and had to spary paint
the 3rd color. This worked fine for me. For the small amount of wire that
you need I found painting it much cheaper.
Steve NU0P
----- Original Message -----
From: "kcia1124" <KENYON@CHARTER.NET>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 4:27 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] mouser p/n? AND magnet wire
> Greetings,
>
> I am hoping you piggies (or others) will share some mouser part
> numbers with the rest of us (well, me). What p/n's are you ordering
> for the potentiometers, or are you using another source?
>
> For the any of the group, I'm looking for 1/4lb rolls of magnet wire
> in different colors. I know Dan's has 10' sections, or so, or I could
> get out the spray paint for my own psychedelic colors, but I'd like
> to minimize some of the aggrevation, and get the wires pre-colored.
>
> Any help is appreciated.
>
> Kenyon Cox
> WD8INS
> Belpre, OH
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hi Kenyon!
I'll stick the file on my website <
http://www.qsl.net/af4ps/> or this Yahoo
group site so you can get what you need at your convenience, but I can also
attach the "Excel" worksheet to an email but attachments are not ideal via
the Yahoo list. Will this email address work for you? kcia1124
<
KENYON@CHARTER.NET>
The file lists the part numbers and costs. My sources were Mouser, Kit's
and Parts (W8DIZ), Hosfelt and Pig donations.
I'll get to it today (I hope!) I'll email you when I get it done.
-MAC-
AF4PS
FP-51
Look for the 2N2-40 Flying Pig Group Build link.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kcia1124" <KENYON@CHARTER.NET>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 5:27 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] mouser p/n? AND magnet wire
> Greetings,
>
> I am hoping you piggies (or others) will share some mouser part
> numbers with the rest of us (well, me). What p/n's are you ordering
> for the potentiometers, or are you using another source?
>
> For the any of the group, I'm looking for 1/4lb rolls of magnet wire
> in different colors. I know Dan's has 10' sections, or so, or I could
> get out the spray paint for my own psychedelic colors, but I'd like
> to minimize some of the aggrevation, and get the wires pre-colored.
>
> Any help is appreciated.
>
> Kenyon Cox
> WD8INS
> Belpre, OH
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Hi again, all,
Thanks for the answers, and my kenyon at charter dot net address will
work fine.
Thanks for the offer of the spreadsheet. Fire it off directly, or I'll
watch Mac's website.
Mac, nice website, BTW.
I got a shipment of toroids from Diz, yesterday, so I guess I'll see if
I can start winding some of them in the meantime.
Kenyon
--
Debian 3.0 XFS
11:50:01 up 10 days, 16:23, 1 user, load average: 0.28, 0.09, 0.09
|
2839|2839|2004-02-15 11:49:17|Steve White|VFO Drift|My vfo is drifting down to a lower freq and continues this for
hours. I think that what I need is a more negative drift coefficient
capacitance in the tank circuit. I think this means that there would
be less capacitance as the temp rises and subsequently a higher vfo
freq. This is correct logic on my part isn't it???
I have not enclosed my vfo in a shield at all or have I used wax to
reduce the mechanical movement of any parts . The toroid is painted
with Q-dope however and has boiled.
I am using all poly and NP0 caps.
Steve NU0P
|
2840|2840|2004-02-17 13:06:50|Arthur Gary Silvers|Freq-Mite and Tuning Linearity|Gang,
In case anyone is still interested, the freq mite in my 2n2/40 derives
its input directly frm the vfo output with no apparent additional
loading. The output is connected through a 1 mohm resistor to the high
end of the audio gain control potentionmeter.
For tuning linearity, I have a trim pot accross the 10 turn tuning
pot. I am not certain of its value but it is black and designated "104".
72,
Arth, WS6T
|
2841|2841|2004-02-19 11:56:13|Ed|Resistors for 2N2 40|Does anyone have the resistor package for this project. I have all
the other parts as far as I can tell. Been collecting this stuff for
quite sometime. Thank you es 73...Ed
|
2842|2841|2004-02-20 12:01:52|Arthur Gary Silvers|Re: Resistors for 2N2 40|The NORCAL QRP club, now part of AMQRP, put out a resistor kit some
time ago. I consisted of 1/4 watt resistors, 100 each, of every
conceivable value. A large box of business sized envelopes serves as
a great resistor file. Perfect for us hams who have several projects
going. Those kits are probably no longer available but RS sells
similar but perhaps smaller resistor kits. If not in the stores try
their on-line shopping website. Dan's Small Parts may also have
resistor kits. May also want to post a suggestion on the QRP-L
website for the return of the NORCAL resistor kit. Enjoy.
Best 73s,
Arth WS6T
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Ed" wrote:
> Does anyone have the resistor package for this project. I have all
> the other parts as far as I can tell. Been collecting this stuff
for
> quite sometime. Thank you es 73...Ed
Gangue -
I have finished matching up the xtals and have 13 sets that I
will be sending to Mac, AF4PS, later this week! Each bag contains 3
matched xtals (with numbers written on them)and 2 LO xtals (with LO
written on them). Had fun doing them!
72
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
2844|2844|2004-02-24 17:46:11|macstein@aol.com|Flying Pig 2n2-40+ Group Buy Progress|Hi gang,
Kit price was $68.00. Thanks for the extra to help with postage - you know
who you are.
I heard from:
Lloyd L.- cash for 2 kits plus
Brian M.- check #2892
Doc Jim C. - Postal Money Order
Jerry F. - check #2271
Michael M. - check #3270
Kenyan C. - check #3852
Larry M. - check #3055
Dennis P. - sub-parts covered
Larry P. - sub-parts covered
Curt - crystals covered
Jeff - crystals covered
Here's the progress:
- Dennis has the crystals all matched! "Each bag contains 3
matched xtals (with numbers written on them)and 2 LO xtals (with LO
written on them)." -- Dennis also donated most of the diodes and resistors.
- Diz came through with his half-price bags-o-parts.
- Brian has sent (but he doesn't remember it) BNC connectors, LEDs and a some
sacrificial 2n2222s.
- Hosfelt matched MV1662s have arrived.
-The big Mouser order is in, with only the following 3 parts backordered:
(POT4) 72-T70YP-100 Vishay trimpot (1 needed)
(TC3) 659-GKG10011 Sprague/Goodman 2.8-10pF trimcap (1 needed)
(R22 etc.) 291-2.7k 2.7k resistors (5 needed)
note: Mouser cross-referenced the 1N34a diode to 1N4454 I'm including the
data sheet so you can make up your own mind about that!
I'll pack up all stuff-on-hand and send it on when the Mouser order arrives.
That way you can get started. I'll send the backordered parts when they
arrive.
Hey, send me pictures of your rig when you are finished, and I'll post it on
the AF4PS website. (Jeff's and Jim K's are already up!)
-MAC-
AF4PS
FP-51
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2845|2845|2004-02-29 15:14:50|va3jff|Starting (finally) my 2N2/40 ... and I'm off to a bad start|Hi All.
After a year of slowly accumulating parts, I was finally ready to
begin the build earlier this week. It was nice to see the FP group
buy creating some extra traffic on this group ... I thought it might
come in handy to help me out ;)
I have built the T/R section (Seq #1) and when I apply 12V to the
VCC, I get 11.6V at RX and 7.4V at TX ... while I would be expecting
0V on TX.
While my electronics knowledge would certainly limit my ability to
build completely from scratch, I can follow directions and try to
learn as I go. From my double/triple checking ... everything should
seem to be hooked up properly.
Any suggestions from those that are more technically adept than
myself to get me going in the right direction again?
Thanks.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
|
2846|2845|2004-02-29 17:22:47|J. Wagner|Re: Starting (finally) my 2N2/40 ... and I'm off to a bad start|Hi Jeff,
Can you upload a closeup digital pic to the yahoo site? Maybe we could spot
something by looking at it.
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner
john@wagner-usa.net >From: "va3jff" <va3jff@yahoo.ca>
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2n2-40] Starting (finally) my 2N2/40 ... and I'm off to a bad
>start
>Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 20:14:12 -0000
>
>Hi All.
>
>After a year of slowly accumulating parts, I was finally ready to
>begin the build earlier this week. It was nice to see the FP group
>buy creating some extra traffic on this group ... I thought it might
>come in handy to help me out ;)
>
>I have built the T/R section (Seq #1) and when I apply 12V to the
>VCC, I get 11.6V at RX and 7.4V at TX ... while I would be expecting
>0V on TX.
>
>While my electronics knowledge would certainly limit my ability to
>build completely from scratch, I can follow directions and try to
>learn as I go. From my double/triple checking ... everything should
>seem to be hooked up properly.
>
>Any suggestions from those that are more technically adept than
>myself to get me going in the right direction again?
>
>Thanks.
>73/72
>Jeff - VA3JFF
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Say �good-bye� to spam, viruses and pop-ups with MSN Premium -- free trial
offer!
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200359ave/direct/01/At 08:14 PM 2/29/2004 +0000, va3jff wrote:
>Hi All.
>
>After a year of slowly accumulating parts, I was finally ready to
>begin the build earlier this week. It was nice to see the FP group
>buy creating some extra traffic on this group ... I thought it might
>come in handy to help me out ;)
>
>I have built the T/R section (Seq #1) and when I apply 12V to the
>VCC, I get 11.6V at RX and 7.4V at TX
OOOps. The only way I see that happening is if Q21, the first
transistor being turn on part way. It could have in internal
short I suppose, so changing it would test that theory.
Do the Rx and Tx voltages change when the key line is brought
to ground? That piece of information would also help figure
out what is wrong.
> ... while I would be expecting
>0V on TX.
That's correct.
72 and keep us posted,
Hi Gang!
Does anyone have 25 - 1N34a diodes? I crossreferenced to a (1N4454).
I came home today to find two boxes: the matched Crystals from Dennis, and
the big parts order from Mouser! I'm "off" tomorrow so I will separate the
parts into kits. I don't have any idea when the backordered parts will ship (100
ohm Trimpot, 2.7K resistors, optional 3-10pF trimcap), so I will go ahead and
send these on so you can get started if you want.
I will email separately those who just wanted a few parts and/or crystals.
(Larry, the 150pF polystyrene caps were also backodered, but the rest you wanted
came in.)
I have promised out all the copperclad PCB I have. Radio Shack has it
(expensive). Dan's Small Parts has it. See my website for links <
http://www.qsl.net/af4ps> clicl on the 2n240+ "Feature" at the top left. I think Diz W8DIZ has
some small diameter coax. Let me order some and I'll toss that into the kit.
-MAC-
AF4PS
FP-51
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Man! There goes the neighborhood. Can't you just imagine 25 more 2N2-40s
roaring on 40 meters, each piloted by a Flying Pig? I sure am glad I popped
the extra few bucks for a variable 'oink' filter in my 2N2-40. (;^o)
73 de Lee,
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: <macstein@aol.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 4:44 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Flying Pigs 2n240+ Group Build/Buy progress
> Hi Gang!
>
> Does anyone have 25 - 1N34a diodes? I crossreferenced to a (1N4454).
>
> I came home today to find two boxes: the matched Crystals from Dennis, and
> the big parts order from Mouser! I'm "off" tomorrow so I will separate
the
> parts into kits. I don't have any idea when the backordered parts will
ship (100
> ohm Trimpot, 2.7K resistors, optional 3-10pF trimcap), so I will go ahead
and
> send these on so you can get started if you want.
>
> I will email separately those who just wanted a few parts and/or crystals.
> (Larry, the 150pF polystyrene caps were also backodered, but the rest you
wanted
> came in.)
>
> I have promised out all the copperclad PCB I have. Radio Shack has it
> (expensive). Dan's Small Parts has it. See my website for links <
> http://www.qsl.net/af4ps> clicl on the 2n240+ "Feature" at the top left.
I think Diz W8DIZ has
> some small diameter coax. Let me order some and I'll toss that into the
kit.
>
> -MAC-
> AF4PS
> FP-51
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hi Everybody.
Thanks for all the suggestions on getting my T/R segment working.
Jim was right, it appears as though Q21 was somewhat fried ...
however, so were my other 2222's ...
I swithced to metal can 2222's, and away it goes.
I can see two possible scenarios that have caused my downfall ...
perhaps someone can shed some light on my observations.
1> I got a bad batch of 2222's
2> My 20W iron is too hot for the plastic 2222's, no matter how
short of a period of time I apply the heat for. I tried varying the
heat, but even just enough to get the solder to flow didn't seem to
help the performance.
Thanks again for all the help. I will progress to Seq #2, and will
order a batch of metal 2222's.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
|
2851|2850|2004-03-06 12:25:46|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: T/R Now Working. THANKS!!|At 08:41 AM 3/6/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi Everybody.
>
>Thanks for all the suggestions on getting my T/R segment working.
>Jim was right, it appears as though Q21 was somewhat fried ...
>however, so were my other 2222's ...
>
>I swithced to metal can 2222's, and away it goes.
That's good to hear, but should not have been necessary,
unless the output of the R/R switch was somehow shorted.
That might kill one or more of the PN2222 transistors.
I would also kill a metal 2N2222A too though.
>I can see two possible scenarios that have caused my downfall ...
>perhaps someone can shed some light on my observations.
>
>1> I got a bad batch of 2222's
Hightly unlikely.
>2> My 20W iron is too hot for the plastic 2222's, no matter how
>short of a period of time I apply the heat for. I tried varying the
>heat, but even just enough to get the solder to flow didn't seem to
>help the performance.
Also highly unlikely. I use a 50 watt temperature controlled
iron running at 350 degrees C and I don't think I've ever fried
a transistor with it.
>Thanks again for all the help. I will progress to Seq #2, and will
>order a batch of metal 2222's.
I'd sure check some of your other PN2222s with an ohm meter to
see if they are OK. I would hate to see you build the whole
rig with defective devices. What a bummer that would be.
72 and thanks for the feedback,
Jim, K8IQY
Parts kits go in the mail today, so you can get started.
Please use the included Excel parts list to inventory, and I'll "fix" any
ommissions/errors as best I can. Contact me at: <
macnohere@fpqrp.com>
Notice that I included some dated reference info... the updated schematics
will have some differences in the layout.
I'll ship the three backordered parts to you when they come in. HAVE FUN!
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In a message dated 3/10/2004 12:07:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
llachow@yahoo.com writes:
> Does anyone(s) on the build or elsewhere want to try
> to get some a this stuff as a group? In bulk, as it
> were? Or have the low-down skinny on a source?
>
> oo
Dans Small Parts in MT has most all of this: PCB, whar, small coax
<
http://www.danssmallpartsandkits.net/>
Diz has the small coax at
<
http://www.kitsandparts.com>
-MAC-
AF4PS
FP-51
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Just got my parts yesterday and looking forward to trying this. It
will be the first time I've attempted something like this. They say
its built on a 5 x 7 piece of circuit board. I've got a 4 x 6 piece,
how small a piece is doable??
Jerry - NR5A
|
2855|2854|2004-03-13 19:08:49|Steve|Re: PC Board Size|I just finished mine up and I would say that you need every bit of the 5 x 7
board or plan on a laying out the circuits differenetly than standard.
Steve NU0P
----- Original Message -----
From: "jfelts13" <nr5a@rap.midco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 5:01 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] PC Board Size
> Just got my parts yesterday and looking forward to trying this. It
> will be the first time I've attempted something like this. They say
> its built on a 5 x 7 piece of circuit board. I've got a 4 x 6 piece,
> how small a piece is doable??
>
> Jerry - NR5A
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
I think you had best try of the larger board. I was an inch shy in one
dimension and I paid dearly for it and don't have any room for neat add-ons
like a freq mite, digital dial, etc. This is going to be a great deal of
fun and a bit of frustration with a superb radio waiting at the end.
Make sure you get multiple color magnet wire for the transformers!
Keep the group informed of your progress. I love to see how other guys are
progressing. And don't hesitate to ask a question if you need it.
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "jfelts13" <nr5a@rap.midco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 6:01 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] PC Board Size
> Just got my parts yesterday and looking forward to trying this. It
> will be the first time I've attempted something like this. They say
> its built on a 5 x 7 piece of circuit board. I've got a 4 x 6 piece,
> how small a piece is doable??
>
> Jerry - NR5A
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
At 11:01 PM 3/13/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Just got my parts yesterday and looking forward to trying this. It
>will be the first time I've attempted something like this. They say
>its built on a 5 x 7 piece of circuit board. I've got a 4 x 6 piece,
>how small a piece is doable??
>
>Jerry - NR5A
Jerry,
The original rig that won the 2N2222 contest was on a 4X5 inch
footprint, and the final amplifier assembly had to be on an
elevated 2nd board. The 5X7 inch footprint is the smallest
size I'd suggest using, and maybe and inch bigger on each side
wouldn't be a bad idea for your first attempt at this kind of
construction. Just my thoughts, having built 4 of these kind
of rigs.
72 and happy building,
Jim, K8IQY
Hey All!
Just finished up the VFO sequence after my false start with funky
plastic 2N2222's in the T/R driver. Turns out that the legs of my
plastic transistors are not the standard EBC across the flat face.
They show no gain when plugged into a transistor tester on the
multimeter ... but show gain in reverse.
Well ... back to my VFO ... with my weekend off, and no major DX
contests to distract me, I returned to the soldering iron. After
finishing it up at around 4:00am local time (I'm a midnight shift
worker) I applied power, turned on my trusty little FT817, spun the
dial to 2.085 and low and behold ... my handiwork oscillates! Turn
the tuning pot and it is even a variable frequency! WOO HOO!
I tune from 2.085 through to 2.174 ... a bit less than I had
expected, but I'll see if I can tweak it a bit. How much tuning
range have other builders found?
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
|
2859|2859|2004-03-14 10:00:24|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: whoops!|At 05:11 PM 3/13/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>Jim,
>Hi Lloyd,
> sorry for that last post - didn't realize you were
>on the list.
That shouldn't impair anybody. I keep a watch out for
questions that I can answer as the guys and gals are building.
I'm delighted that you've taken up the challenge.
> Looking forward to enjoying this build,
>though!
Great. That's the right attutude. There will be some frustrations
along the way, guranteed, but in the end, you are gonna be really
stoked when your rig works, and you built if from a pile of
low tech parts.
BTW for those who are interested, the receiver in the 2N2/20
is all done, and really works great. MDS of -130 dBm, or about
70 nanovolts, extremely quiet, and 6 poles of xtal filtering;
4 in the main filter, and 2 in the roofing filter after the IF
amp. Gobs of audio too. Pictures at 11!!
> LL
>
>__________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
>http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>Version: 6.0.614 / Virus Database: 393 - Release Date: 3/5/2004
At 09:49 AM 3/14/2004 +0000, Jeff - VA3JFF wrote:
>Hey All!
>
>Just finished up the VFO sequence after my false start with funky
>plastic 2N2222's in the T/R driver. Turns out that the legs of my
>plastic transistors are not the standard EBC across the flat face.
Zouds!! That will give you grey hair fast. I ran into the same
thing with the PN2907 that I used in the 4017 transverter. That
threw a bunch of folks off looking at the orientation of the
transistor, and thinking the emitter and collector were reversed.
I never realized when I built the prototype that that stupid
transistor was an oddball. Another good learning point though;
always check the pinout of the part you are using.
>They show no gain when plugged into a transistor tester on the
>multimeter ... but show gain in reverse.
Yup.........
>Well ... back to my VFO ... with my weekend off, and no major DX
>contests to distract me, I returned to the soldering iron. After
>finishing it up at around 4:00am local time (I'm a midnight shift
>worker) I applied power, turned on my trusty little FT817, spun the
>dial to 2.085 and low and behold ... my handiwork oscillates! Turn
>the tuning pot and it is even a variable frequency! WOO HOO!
Way to go. One major section done, and it is working.
>I tune from 2.085 through to 2.174 ... a bit less than I had
>expected, but I'll see if I can tweak it a bit. How much tuning
>range have other builders found?
Mine is spot on 100 KHz, but then I designed it, so it had
to come out that way. Easy to tweak things a bit to get
more range. Another 11 KHz is easy; just tweak TC3 to add
a bit more capacitance.
72 and thanks for the update. Anybody else building??
Jim, K8IQY
I have nearly 100khz tuning on both of my units. I
can't recall right away what the mod was to get that,
though I do recall 1 more or less turn on the coil(for
RIT purposes), and a change of a capacitance
somewhere. This is with the 2N2/40+ circuit.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- va3jff <
va3jff@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> Hey All!
>
> Just finished up the VFO sequence after my false
> start with funky
> plastic 2N2222's in the T/R driver. Turns out that
> the legs of my
> plastic transistors are not the standard EBC across
> the flat face.
> They show no gain when plugged into a transistor
> tester on the
> multimeter ... but show gain in reverse.
>
> Well ... back to my VFO ... with my weekend off, and
> no major DX
> contests to distract me, I returned to the soldering
> iron. After
> finishing it up at around 4:00am local time (I'm a
> midnight shift
> worker) I applied power, turned on my trusty little
> FT817, spun the
> dial to 2.085 and low and behold ... my handiwork
> oscillates! Turn
> the tuning pot and it is even a variable frequency!
> WOO HOO!
>
> I tune from 2.085 through to 2.174 ... a bit less
> than I had
> expected, but I'll see if I can tweak it a bit. How
> much tuning
> range have other builders found?
>
> 73/72
> Jeff - VA3JFF
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
http://mail.yahoo.comI am ready for the 2n2/20 bring it on Jim....With spots going down hill 20
Meters is just what we need.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
To: "Lloyd Lachow"
Cc: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 9:00 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: whoops!
> At 05:11 PM 3/13/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>
> >Jim,
> >Hi Lloyd,
>
>
>
> > sorry for that last post - didn't realize you were
> >on the list.
>
> That shouldn't impair anybody. I keep a watch out for
> questions that I can answer as the guys and gals are building.
> I'm delighted that you've taken up the challenge.
>
> > Looking forward to enjoying this build,
> >though!
>
> Great. That's the right attutude. There will be some frustrations
> along the way, guranteed, but in the end, you are gonna be really
> stoked when your rig works, and you built if from a pile of
> low tech parts.
>
> BTW for those who are interested, the receiver in the 2N2/20
> is all done, and really works great. MDS of -130 dBm, or about
> 70 nanovolts, extremely quiet, and 6 poles of xtal filtering;
> 4 in the main filter, and 2 in the roofing filter after the IF
> amp. Gobs of audio too. Pictures at 11!!
>
>
> > LL
> >
> >__________________________________
> >Do you Yahoo!?
> >Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
> >http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> >---
> >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> >Version: 6.0.614 / Virus Database: 393 - Release Date: 3/5/2004
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Jim,
Glad to know the 2n2-20 is almost ready.
Been having loads of fun with the 2n2-40, so
I'm chomping at the bits to get the 2n2-20 started.
Thanks,
Jim W4ULY
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
To: Lloyd Lachow
Cc: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 10:00 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: whoops!
At 05:11 PM 3/13/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>Jim,
>Hi Lloyd,
> sorry for that last post - didn't realize you were
>on the list.
That shouldn't impair anybody. I keep a watch out for
questions that I can answer as the guys and gals are building.
I'm delighted that you've taken up the challenge.
> Looking forward to enjoying this build,
>though!
Great. That's the right attutude. There will be some frustrations
along the way, guranteed, but in the end, you are gonna be really
stoked when your rig works, and you built if from a pile of
low tech parts.
BTW for those who are interested, the receiver in the 2N2/20
is all done, and really works great. MDS of -130 dBm, or about
70 nanovolts, extremely quiet, and 6 poles of xtal filtering;
4 in the main filter, and 2 in the roofing filter after the IF
amp. Gobs of audio too. Pictures at 11!!
> LL
>
>__________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
>http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>Version: 6.0.614 / Virus Database: 393 - Release Date: 3/5/2004
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
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2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Boy I'm glad thats over. I just finished doing the inventory on
parts. Everything appears to be there. Did have one major problem
with the caps, I can't read what ever is on 9 of them, and that was
using my mag lite. Guess when I stumble on needing one of those I'll
have to take it to work and try to read it using my microscope. I
work with SMT parts all day and would be lost trying to solder some
of those small parts without my scope. hi
I'm on temp hold with the project now till I can come up with a 5 x 7
piece of PC board.
This is going to be fun, and you guys will have fun helping me out of
rough spots. hi hi
Jerry - Nr5A - South Dakota
|
2865|2864|2004-03-15 23:04:16|Lee Mairs|Re: Finished Inventory|Hi Jerry -
I found my AEDE LC meter an absolute necessity for building stuff, and I
used it a lot building my 2N2-40. I also used my DVM to verify resistors.
That turned out to be a really good thing as I had a dozen mis-marked 180
ohm resistors. Did you buy an Elsie kit from AmQRP per chance?
What sort of scope to you use at work? Are you trying to build the 2N2-40
from SMT parts?
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "jfelts13" <nr5a@rap.midco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 10:29 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Finished Inventory
> Boy I'm glad thats over. I just finished doing the inventory on
> parts. Everything appears to be there. Did have one major problem
> with the caps, I can't read what ever is on 9 of them, and that was
> using my mag lite. Guess when I stumble on needing one of those I'll
> have to take it to work and try to read it using my microscope. I
> work with SMT parts all day and would be lost trying to solder some
> of those small parts without my scope. hi
>
> I'm on temp hold with the project now till I can come up with a 5 x 7
> piece of PC board.
>
> This is going to be fun, and you guys will have fun helping me out of
> rough spots. hi hi
>
> Jerry - Nr5A - South Dakota
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hi Gang,
This is a short note to tell you all that a 2n2_40+ was "born" in my basement workshop last week. I had a few interesting problems along the way, and I'll soon tell you all about my trials, observations and troubleshooting that "got me there".
The "newborn" is still in the delivery room (workbench) right now, awaiting a tuneup, packaging, and final inspection. It'll make its debut at Atlanticon 2004.
Jim Kortge, K8IQY, was very helpful (Thanks Jim!) with suggestions, advice and inspiration as I troubleshot the various problems that came about during and after construction. Jim and I exchanged e-mails over the last month or so and I'll be sharing them with you in the very near future.
BTW, I've dubbed my construction method as "Extreme Manhattan".
More to follow soon... ;-)
72 de Larry - K3PEG -.-
|
2867|2864|2004-03-16 19:39:25|NR5A|Re: Finished Inventory|Lee my parts are from the group buy that the Flyin Pigs group is doing. I
honestly don't know the name of the microscopes we have at work Lee, but
they go up to 3.5 and really make things look big. And oh yes, I'm going to
be building mine with regular sized parts, I want to enjoy being able to see
the parts. hi hi So of the stuff we work on at work is the size of a salt
grain, talk about small. Talk about a pain in the neck. HI
Jerry - NR5A
|
2868|2868|2004-03-16 19:57:00|macstein@aol.com|Copperclad PCB|Hey Jerry NR5A,
If you don't find a 5x7 or larger piece of copperclad, you might opt to build
"modules" on smaller pieces of copperclad. You could hook them together with
ground straps and shielded coax runs. Many of us did the Multi-Pig rig this
way. I am going to do this, so I can experiment.
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2869|2869|2004-03-20 17:42:22|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|2N2/20 Rig Lives|For those who are interested.....
I put the last part in the new 2N2/20 this afternoon, and it is
working! I haven't made a contact yet, but hope to this evening.
Overall, the receiver is very decent with 6 poles of xtal filtering,
and the transmitter will put out about 7 watts with the wick all
the way up. I'll publish the receive and transmit specs later.
If you are going to Atlanticon, Ozarkcon, or FDIM, the rig will
be there for you to see and operate, if you'd like. That's assuming
I get a case built for it in the next few days. :-)
I'll also post more of the details and some images on the Yahoo
2n2-40 web site when I have some spare (ya, right!) time.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
2870|2869|2004-03-20 20:24:41|James O. Murray|Re: 2N2/20 Rig Lives|Jim,
Congratulations on the 2N2-20.
Sounds like a real winner !
I look forward to hearing more about it.
72,
Jim Murray, W4ULY
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 5:42 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2/20 Rig Lives
For those who are interested.....
I put the last part in the new 2N2/20 this afternoon, and it is
working! I haven't made a contact yet, but hope to this evening.
Overall, the receiver is very decent with 6 poles of xtal filtering,
and the transmitter will put out about 7 watts with the wick all
the way up. I'll publish the receive and transmit specs later.
If you are going to Atlanticon, Ozarkcon, or FDIM, the rig will
be there for you to see and operate, if you'd like. That's assuming
I get a case built for it in the next few days. :-)
I'll also post more of the details and some images on the Yahoo
2n2-40 web site when I have some spare (ya, right!) time.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
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Yahoo! Groups Links
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi gang,
As promised, I'll be uploading edits of emails exchanged between
myself and Jim Kortge, K8IQY, concerning the problems,
troubleshooting, findings, fixes and finally success with my build
of the 2n2_40+.
Here's the first:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: "k3peg" <k3peg@comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: Howdy!
At 10:08 PM 2/5/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> Hi Jim and good evening.
Hi Larry, nice to hear from you.!
> I've started to rebuild the 2n2_40 only this time I'm doing
the "+" version, i.e. the 2-01-2002 schematic series.
You'll really like that version of the rig.
> I've got a few questions:
Which is better, the J176 or 2n7000 mute ckt?
J176 is much better I think.
> Do you have any of the required polystyrene and polyester caps
that you can spare?
Sure, I'll send you a set when I get back home. I'm basking in the
sun down in Florida at the moment. Be back in Michigan about the
middle of the month.
> If so I'll pay you for them.
Don't worry about that.
> I also need a MV209, and two 100uH chokes.
I think you mean MVAM109, big difference. Got the chokes in my
inventory too.
> And that pesky 0.082 uFd cap. too.
Oh, use a 0.1uF there. You won't be able to tell the difference.
> I contacted a fellow ham (who's getting orders together for the
Flying Pigs 2n2_40 effort) a few weeks ago with my small parts
request, but I haven't heard from him.
That's Mac, AF4PS. Last I knew, he had two spare parts kits, as a
couple of the builders backed out. You should be able to run his
email address down on QRZ.com
> I'm using 26 and 24 ga (mix) wire for the bifilar and trifilar
toroid inductors, with 3 different colored wires this time! I'm also
using a completely new set of toroids (de NorCal). I believe I had a
few mixed up (poor eyesight?), and two toroid inductors that
wouldn't resonate. I wound the original toroids years ago and now I
don't trust any of them. > The front end and IF oscillated in my
first attempt (years ago) on my first 2n2_40 rig build.
Redoing the rig with better parts should really make it perform.
Bring it along to Atlanticon if you are going, and we'll have
something to yak about.
72 and I'll get the parts coming your way as soon as I can.
Jim, K8IQY
Hi gang,
As promised, I'll be uploading edits of emails exchanged between
myself and Jim Kortge, K8IQY, concerning the problems,
troubleshooting, findings, fixes and finally success with my build
of the 2n2_40+.
Here's the second:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: "Larry Przyborowski" <k3peg@comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 9:27 AM
Subject: Re: Howdy!
At 08:25 PM 2/6/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> Good evening Jim,
> I've enclosed a few jpgs of my 2n2_40+.
> I designed a 5x7" layout (in Dec, 2002) using MS PowerPoint and
printed the resultant image 1-to-1 onto a self adhesive contact
paper using my LaserJet printer. Before sticking the paper down onto
Cu clad, I "drilled" out the ground plane connection areas. Then I
placed the paper (with its backing still intact) over the Cu clad
board and inked through the holes to mark the ground connections. I
removed the paper, and then slightly tinned all ground connections.
I then cleaned all flux from the tinned areas.
> Next, I carefully applied the contact paper onto the Cu clad board
and smoothed it down. Manhattan pads were punched, pretinned (with
63/37) and then epoxied to the contact sheet wherever needed. Next,
I drilled small holes near interconnect points throughout the
layout. You see, all interconnects are done on the underside of the
board. Neatness and originality, eh? ;>). All interconnect wires
were installed, Ohm checked and then epoxied in place to the
underside of the board. Ground planes (top and bottom) are connected
via stainless steel screws through wires at various places and
aluminum spacers. The spacers also support the board for mounting.
> Like I said, it's "Extreme Manhattan" and, of course, it's only
suitable For "proven" circuitry.
> This assembly, after I package it, will be one of my "homebrew
building" entries at Atlanticon 2004 this year. I wanted to enter it
last year, but I never got it started (until now) because of all the
other things (both personal and work load) going on at that time.
> Whatca think?
Absolutely fantastic Larry. I knew you were a very good builder,
and had lots of neat ideas, but I'll tell you, this latest 2N2/40+
is "out of sight". Totally mind boggling my friend. Gonna be very
difficult to beat at the building contest!!
> BTW, I've sorta gone nutz with vacuum tube stuff too. I'm doing
some restoration work on an old TrueTone 1937 console radio and
hungrily seeking out vacuum tube stuff to play with.
I've had a few of those thoughts along the way, then I remember how
much I hate high voltages, and sanity returns! :-0. It those old
tube rigs would run on 12 volts, I'd be in there running hard, but
not with 250 volts and up on the plates and screens. No thanks!!
72, TTUL, and many thanks for the sneak preview,
Jim, K8IQY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: "Larry Przyborowski" <k3peg@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: Howdy!
At 11:43 PM 2/9/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> Hi Jim,
Hi Larry,
> Goodness sakes, is it that exciting? 8>)
Indeed it is, to me anyway.
> You've made my day! Jim, you're most welcome to the sneak
preview. ;>) When I finish the board assembly I'll email you another
picture of it.
Great! I'd love to see it.
> Well, I hope that others are impressed with my "Extreme Manhattan
2n2_40+" too.
If they aren't, they are missing something. :-)
> It'll be a show-n-tell item for sure. Gotta think about how to
enclose it...
I'd sure consider a case with a plastic see-thru top of some kind,
so you can view the layout anytime.
> I'm already making changes to the layout that I did in December of
2002. I've made changes to the T-R, 1st audio and MUTE circuits to
bring them up to your 2002 circuit revisions. BTW, I have the 2n7000
RIT circuit incorporated on the board too. ;>)
The J176 mute is even better sounding than the 2N7000 I think.
> I mounted all the inductors and transformers and some 2n2222s. The
audio portion checks out FB. I'm a few critical parts short of
applying power to the remaining circuits. I'll recheck all I've
installed thus far against the schematics before I go any further
with live testing.
Sounds like a good plan. I'll get the parts to you as soon as I get
home. As an aside, we went down to Sanibel Island to a wildlife
preserve yesterday, and the noon temperature was 91 in the sun.
Hated to leave that!
72 and TTUL,
Jim, K8IQY
Larry Przyborowski wrote:
> Hi gang,
> As promised, I'll be uploading edits of emails exchanged between
> myself and Jim Kortge, K8IQY, concerning the problems,
> troubleshooting, findings, fixes and finally success with my build
> of the 2n2_40+.
>
> Here's the second:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> To: "Larry Przyborowski" <k3peg@comcast.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 9:27 AM
> Subject: Re: Howdy!
>
>
> At 08:25 PM 2/6/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>
>> Good evening Jim,
>
>> I've enclosed a few jpgs of my 2n2_40+.
>
>> I designed a 5x7" layout (in Dec, 2002) using MS PowerPoint and
> printed the resultant image 1-to-1 onto a self adhesive contact
> paper using my LaserJet printer. Before sticking the paper down onto
> Cu clad, I "drilled" out the ground plane connection areas. Then I
> placed the paper (with its backing still intact) over the Cu clad
> board and inked through the holes to mark the ground connections. I
> removed the paper, and then slightly tinned all ground connections.
> I then cleaned all flux from the tinned areas.
>
>> Next, I carefully applied the contact paper onto the Cu clad board
> and smoothed it down. Manhattan pads were punched, pretinned (with
> 63/37) and then epoxied to the contact sheet wherever needed. Next,
> I drilled small holes near interconnect points throughout the
> layout. You see, all interconnects are done on the underside of the
> board. Neatness and originality, eh? ;>). All interconnect wires
> were installed, Ohm checked and then epoxied in place to the
> underside of the board. Ground planes (top and bottom) are connected
> via stainless steel screws through wires at various places and
> aluminum spacers. The spacers also support the board for mounting.
>
>> Like I said, it's "Extreme Manhattan" and, of course, it's only
> suitable For "proven" circuitry.
>
>> This assembly, after I package it, will be one of my "homebrew
> building" entries at Atlanticon 2004 this year. I wanted to enter it
> last year, but I never got it started (until now) because of all the
> other things (both personal and work load) going on at that time.
>
>> Whatca think?
>
>
Larry,
How about posting your layout in the files section? We all can benefit
from your fantastic achievement.
Thanks
Larry Mittman (N8MGu)
--
GnuPG Public Key ID: 773C9DDA
================================================
Never cross a Dragon, for you are crunchy and taste delicious!
My Interests are:
Ham Radio (N8MGU) | Opera | Theater | Sailing | Judaica
Hi gang,
As promised, I'm uploading edits of emails exchanged between
myself and Jim Kortge, K8IQY, concerning the problems,
troubleshooting, findings, fixes and finally success with my build
of the 2n2_40+.
Here's the third:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: "k3peg" <k3peg@comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: 2n2_40
At 09:16 PM 2/19/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> Good evening Jim,
Greetings Larry,
I'm back from Florida, but haven't retrieved the emails off of the
laptop so I know what parts to send you. I'll try to get that done
this evening later.
> Well, I have kludged up the receiver portion with substitute parts
to get it functional (couldn't wait) and I have it working! I set
the Rx LO by ear and it's gud enough fer now.
Yes, by ear is just fine. That's how I set mine up, and then later
on check with the noise generator and fancy scope.
> I had a few problems:
> The Norton preamp wouldn't work for me no matter what I did.
Voltage checks were okay, xfmr was done correctly, tried another
2n2222 etc, but no go. I believe my layout is too "open". . .
couldn't even get it to oscillate, but the 2n2222 did consume 16ma
Ic constantly and get warm and stay warm :>).
Well it sounds like the current consumption is about right, but I'm
amazed that it wouldn't work for you. The circuit isn't at all
critical of layout. I'm guessing that something wasn't right in the
way the circuit was built. I've never seen that circuit not play
unless the 1 turn winding is phased incorrectly. Then it usually
oscillates like a banshee.
> I have a bit of microphonics, and I'll trace that down after I get
the proper parts in.
One or more of the RF bypass capacitors most likely. I've had those
too occasionally.
> I resorted to the original design RF preamp, and it's working fine.
That's a decent amp, but I don't like the input impedance being at
about 350 ohms. That's one of the reasons I made a change. I think
the W1FB/W7ZOI feedback amp design is better than my original.
> I have limited tuning range with my kludge parts substitutions,
but I'm hearing cw signals on 40m.
Good....that's always encouraging.
> I rewound the DBM xfmrs using 30ga wirewrap wire because I first
thought that they were the reason the rcvr wasn't working. Using 30ga
wire I got a slightly tighter twist than the 26ga enameled wire.
However, the wires (26ga enameled and 30ga wirewrap) are pretty much
the same diameter when you set them side-by-side...
I've not used wire wrap wire on toroids, but have been tempted with
its colored coating. What kind of insulation do they use on wire
wrap wire? Is it some sort of plastic?
> I'll swap one DBM out later to see if it really made any
difference. I matched the DBM diodes this time around.
Always good to do. The better the balance in the DBM from both the
diodes and transformers, the better it will work.
> One of the input BPF inductors wouldn't resonate at first... had to
take a few turns off of it.
Not unusual.
> The BPF works neat! T/R switch works, Mute (J176) ckt works too.
Good to hear, especially the J176 mute circuit. I really like that
design.
> I heard from MAC, AF4PS, who's ordering parts for the Flying Pigs
2n2_40 build and he's getting a few parts for me. Thanks Mac!!
That's Mac Steinmeyer, down in Florida. Mac is one of the good guys
in this world.
> I'll have to find the list I sent him, but I know for sure that
he's getting the MV1662s for me.
Yes, I suggested he buy those from Hosfelt Electronics for the
group build, but not the other varicaps needed for the rig.
Actually, with some minor circuit changes the MV1662 will work just
fine in the VFO. The original MVAM109 varicap is getting hard to
find. Diz, at Kits and Parts, has a bunch of them at really fair
prices. He may own all of the remaining stock in the world. I
bought some from him at Dayton last year.
Thanks for the update. I try to get the parts that you need
off in tomorrow's mail.
72, Jim, K8IQY
Hi gang,
As promised, I'm uploading edits of emails exchanged between
myself and Jim Kortge, K8IQY, concerning the problems,
troubleshooting, findings, fixes and finally success with my build
of the 2n2_40+.
Here's the fourth:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: "k3peg" <k3peg@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: Oh happy day!
> At 08:57 PM 2/20/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> Good evening Jim,
Hi again Larry,
> I just finished checking out the 2n2_40's transmitter section. All
is well! I get 20-25 v p-p RF across a 47 Ohm load.
A bit over 1.5 watts
Is that with one transistor?
> Right now, I'm using a 2N2219A for the RF power amp.
A 2N2222A in a big case! I've thought about buying some of those.
Seems like it is easier to find TO-5 heat sinks than the ones for
the TO-18 cases.
> I set the Rx LO and Tx LO using a freq counter and we're in
business. Rx is much hotter with the Rx LO in its proper place ;>).
Oh yes. I don't know how many emails I've gotten over the years from
builders who said their rig was dead, only to find out that they had
not set the LO correctly, or at all. I guess they really didn't
understand how much attenuation that 3 pole filter provides when the
signal isn't centered in the middle of the passband, or at least
near the middle.
> 40m is "corroded" with stations working a contest
CQ CQ TEST K.
Oh yes, I was working one the 2N2/20 today, and it was a good test
for the 500 Hz filter. When I got the new one installed, the band
was dead, so didn't get a chance to hear it with the melee going on.
> The microphonic problem is solved. It was the cascode IF amp's
input xfmr!
Well that's a new one. I'll put that piece of data into my head for
the future. Usually it is a ceramic bypass capacitor, or maybe a
ceramic coupling capacitor that is noisy.
> If I held it from moving, by using a insulated tuning tool, I
could then tap on the Manhattan board and to my delight the
microphonics were gone! I noticed the phasing is different for this
xfmr. Must be a good reason?
Not actually, it just turned out that way. That phasing isn't
critical on that stage, or any, for that matter, except the
transformers for the DBM. If those aren't right, it doesn't work
well.
> I would guess that the cascode amp would be a bit unstable with its
connections 3 and 4 reversed?
Well, actually not. It will become unstable if energy from the
output gets to the input, but using toroids that are removed from
each other, and good decoupling of the power usually yields a stable
amplifier.
> I rewound the IF cascode amp's input xfmr tighter by using 28 ga.
Wire instead of 26 ga. for its primary and left the secondary (2T)
at 26 ga. wire. I'll coat it with some Q-dope to further stabilize
it.
With lighter gauge wire you can get the windings down closer to the
core, which improves the operation of the transformer. That was
probably a good thing to do.
> Thank you Jim, thank you very much for one cool QRP rig!!! I sure
am glad that I did a rebuild on this rig.
Well I'm really anxious to see it "up close and personal". I think
it is gonna be a real hit at Atlanticon. It's only about a month
before that event. Gotta get this 2N2/20 done and into a case of
some kind.
72 and TTUL, Jim, K8IQY
---- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: "Larry Przyborowski" <k3peg@comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: Oh happy day!
> At 10:37 PM 2/22/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> Hi Jim,
Hi Larry,
> Wow! a 2n2_20! What is the IF freq?
11 Mhz. I'm using an ECS made 11.0 MHz series crystal. They look
quite good; a Q of about 97400. I've seen a lot higher in the lower
frequency crystals, but these are decent for that high up. The rig
used a 4 pole, 500 Hz filter, and so far that seems about right for
general use. Could be tighter for contesting, but that really
lowers the input and output impedance. At 500 Hz, they are at 51
ohms, so really don't want to go much lower.
> That's gotta be on my to-build list for sure. I luv 20 meters. ;>)
I've never had a QRP rig for that band, and usually don't work it,
so this is gonna be a new experience for me.
> Yes, a single 2n2219A with heatsink..
A couple of those would probably do just fine at 2.5 to 3 watts,
based on the power you were running with one.
> I put the three 2n2222As in the final amp and they're working fine.
OK
> I didn't rewind the Tx DBM; it works just fine with the 26 ga.
wire. The three in the Rx were redone with wirewrap wire.
Well those are the most critical in terms of performance, so that
was probably a wise decision.
> I worked on the case today and did some drilling.
What kind of case are you building? The homebrew split case that I
did for the SW-30+ that I built was my favorite. I think the 2N2/20
is going to go into something like that. I was thinking about it in
fact just before falling asleep last nite.
> You'll be the first to see my "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40 Project"
at Atlanticon 2004.
Great. I'm certain it will draw a crowd.
> BTW, I sent you a few samples of wirewrap wire. I sent them to you
mail address listed as found by call sign lookup.
Got 'em today. Many thanks.
Gotta get some Zzzz's. Your parts are in the envelope and ready to
take to the PO tomorrow morning.
72 and TTUL, Jim, K8IQY
Hi gang,
As promised, I'm uploading edits of emails exchanged between
myself and Jim Kortge, K8IQY, concerning the problems,
troubleshooting, findings, fixes and finally success with my build
of the 2n2_40+. I apologize if some of this is repetitious.
Here's the fifth:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Przyborowski" <k3peg@comcast.net>
To: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: Hi
Hi Jim,
I borrowed a Tektronix 100 MHz O'scope from where I work. Just
finished futzin' with my 2n2_40 rig tonight. I found two problems
that relate to decreased receive sensitivity.
The RF amp oscillates if I select 20dB gain (I'm using the original
design... remember?). I.E. The Hi input Z 2N2222 job instead of the
Norton amp (which I thought wasn't working).
Well, that O'scope showed me that the IF cascode amp was oscillating
too! Remember the "microphonics" I mentioned in an earlier email?
When I was tapping on the clad board and it caused things (RF
transformers) to move thereby modulating the oscillation signal, I
believe. Doping the IF cascode amp's input coil, T7, greatly reduced
the "microphonics," but the IF cascode amp is still oscillating.
The IF amp was also picking up the Rx LO (maybe due to my layout)
via the input emitter (of Q6) components that were situated too
close to the RX LO's "netting" choke. Moving those three components
(one cap and two resistors connecting to T7's secondary) helped
reduce Rx LO pickup quite a bit. I even tried a shield between the
Rx LO and the IF amp, and that too improved things, but it's not a
total fix.
I killed (by grounding their bases) both Rx LO and VFO oscillators
only to discover that the IF Cascode amp is now oscillating on its
own at around 1755-1780 KHz!
I got a bad headache so I had to quit for the evening. I fried a 22uH
choke, L4, tonight too. I reoriented it after first removing it and
then resoldering it between Vcc and gnd! Golly, I remember that
smell... smells like a resistor got fried ;>(.
Can I a make 22uH choke with a toroid? I don't have an L meter, so
if you have the dope on how to wind one please pass that along. Or,
I'll revert to the old circuit there with the 4.7 uH choke; that is
if I can find the 4.7 uH choke.
I'll go over the IF amp and Mixer amp circuitry tomorrow evening.
Meanwhile any thoughts you might have will be most welcomed. My
biggest problem now is my eyesight; it's pretty bad for close up
vision. I had to use a binocular magnifier to build this rig.
Working with a PC's CRT display for hours doesn't bother me as much,
however. But, I can't touch type so typewriting takes a while for me.
I can see that I'm going to have to get a better signal generator
and an O'scope if I do more of this homebrewing. I wish I knew
someone local to share this passion, a buddy if you will, to bounce
ideas off of. ;>)
I have the rig in a case and all wired up to its controls. I got the
RIT wired and working on Saturday morning. It's no wonder now why
the Rx lacked sensitivity! The IF amp was "overworked" by either
itself (by self-oscillating) or stray pickup of the Rx LO signal....
no room for small-time signals. ;>)
I'm also writing to tell you that I'm the proud owner of a new IC-
756 PRO2. W5YR's comments, and those of a few others, convinced me
to go for it. I had an ICOM IC-756 before ordering the new rig. I
earned the money by working a good deal of overtime during the last
few months. The recent ICOM sale sure helped to push me over the
edge too. And, most importantly... my XYL is very supportive of my
hobby, ham radio. ;>). I've had two QSOs with the ICOM thus far.
There are a lot of things to diddle on this rig!
No, this new rig won't stop me from building!
Vy 73 Jim de Larry - K3PEG
"I love the smell of flux in the morning... smells like circuitry!"
That's my quote, BTW.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: "Larry Przyborowski" <k3peg@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 4:55 PM
Subject: Re: Hi
> At 01:44 PM 2/26/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> Hi Jim,
> The 2n2_40 parts you sent to me arrived here a few minutes ago!
Thanks very much!
You are welcome Larry. There are some extra 300 pF NPO caps that I
included, as I bought a big bag of those at Dayton. A non-standard
value, but nice to have, and NPO to boot.
72 and happy building, Jim, K8IQY
The following is clips from a few emails:
> Hi Jim,
Hi Larry,
I have seen feedback from the LO into the IF amp because of
imbalance in the Product Detector transformer. Much of that can be
fixed by making sure the transformer is wound carefully. Also,
terminating the output of T8 into the center tap of T9 with a 51 Ohm
resistor will often markedly improve the situation too, along with
probably killing the oscillations that you are getting in the IF amp.
>I shut off both Rx LO and VFO so I could take oscilloscope voltage
Readings at Q6 and Q7. The 1792 KHz oscillation was present, so I
removed C25, the 680 pF cap at Q6's emitter, and that stopped the
oscillations because removing C25 reduced the gain of the amp.
Q6 base = 1.05V
Q6 emitter = 0.4V
Q6 collector = 4.8V
Q7 base = 4.8V
Q7 emitter = 4.1V
Q7 collector = 13.4V
Those voltage readings are correct.
>I killed (by grounding their bases) both Rx LO and VFO oscillators
only to discover that the IF cascode amp is oscillating on its own
around 1755-1780 KHz!
Yikes.
>Inserting a 430 pF cap for C25 resulted in a 1.2V p-p sinewave at
Q7's collector at approx. 2 MHz, like I mentioned before. Trying a
680 pF cap for C25 again resulted in a sinewave at twice the
amplitude, 2.4V p-p, at approx 2 MHz.
>I've read your comments on the modeling of the cascode amp on the
2n2_40 Yahoo group and in particular your comments to Ken, KD2KW on
12/17/01. Ken also experienced IF Amp oscillations. I'll
try "tuning" the IF amp by adjusting the bias to Q6 like you
suggested to Ken.
>T7 and T8 are wound correctly. The Hi-Z primary of T7 is connected
to the Xtal filter's output. I removed T9, checked all diodes (one
of them is off slightly in fwd R from the others). I'll try the 51
Ohm termination at connections 4 and 5 of the Product Detector's
xfmr that you suggested; I noticed earlier that a 500 Ohm
termination made and improvement in LO feedback.
> I do receive cw sigs, but only with the RF preamp at 20 dB gain.
Replacing the old style preamp with the more recent Norton circuit
may or may not help me at this time so I'll wait on that.
> I fried a 22uH choke, L4, tonight too. I reoriented it after first
removing it and then resoldering it between Vcc and gnd! Golly, I
remember that smell... smells like a resistor got fried ;>(.
Kind of a nice smell though, especially if you have more of them in
your stock. Sounds like you don't. Do you have any higher of lower
values? 22uH and the 47 pF capacitor form a series resonant
circuit, so you could go to the next smaller value, and make the
capacitor larger. You can simply scale the values. For instance,
if you went to a 18 uF choke, the capacitor would have to be 56 pF.
The other option is to take out the filter altogether, and just
couple the LO to the Product Detector via a 1000 pF capacitor. I'm
not sure the filter is doing all that much good anyway.
> Can I a make 22uH choke with a toroid?
Yes, but it would take lots of turns on a T37-2 core. Not too hard
to do if you have some FT37-61 cores like the one used in the VFO
output. 20 turns on a -61 core would be 22 uH.
> I don't have an L meter, so if you have the dope on how to wind
one please pass that along. Or, I'll revert to the old circuit there
with the 4.7 uH choke; that is if I can find the 4.7 uH choke.
Note:
>> PS.....I'm listening to signals from the 2N2/20 via its own front-
end up through the Product Detector, and then connecting the audio
into the 2N2/30 AF chain, which is what I'm planning on using in
this latest design. Very quiet with the 6 pole crystal filter!
> FB! Jim. I can't wait to look over that 2N2_40 at Atlanticon 2004.
Let me know your test results on the wirewrap wire, okay?
Thanks for your help and comments on the rig's pictures.
> 73 de Larry - K3PEG
72, Jim, K8IQY
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Larry Howard Mittman
wrote:
> Larry,
> How about posting your layout in the files section? We all can
benefit from your fantastic achievement.
> Thanks
> Larry Mittman (N8MGu)
Hi Larry,
Thanks very much for your kind words.
Yes, I plan on uploading the layout very shortly. I'm presently
revising it, and I need to check it against the schematics before I
post it. I made changes to my original layout along the way and
don't want to post it and add to the confusion. The new layout
addresses, and hopefully fixes the problems I had during
construction and later during troubleshooting of my 2n2_40 build.
It's built on a 5x7" size, copper clad board.
73, Larry - K3PEGHi gang,
As promised, I'm uploading edits of emails exchanged between
myself and Jim Kortge, K8IQY, concerning the problems,
troubleshooting, findings, fixes and finally success with my build
of the 2n2_40+. I apologize if some of this is repetitious.
Here's the sixth:
More clips and emails with Jim Kortge, K8IQY:
> I can see that I'm going to have to get a better signal generator
and an O'scope if I do more of this homebrewing. I wish I knew
someone local to share this passion, a buddy if you will, to bounce
ideas off of. ;>)
That's what we all need. I'm out here in the boonies, and nobody
to work with either. Having a good lab sure does help!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: "Larry Przyborowski" <k3peg@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 9:51 PM
Subject: Re: Hi
At 08:58 PM 3/2/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> Hi Jim,
Hi Larry,
I have seen feedback from the LO into the IF amp because of
imbalance in the Product Detector transformer. Much of that can be
fixed by making sure the transformer is wound carefully. Also,
terminating the output of T8 into the center tap of of T9 with a 51
Ohm resistor will ofter markedly improve the situation too, along
with probably killing the oscillations that you are getting in the
IF amp.
> I shut off both Rx LO and VFO so I could take oscilloscope voltage
readings at Q6 and Q7. The 1792 KHz oscillation was present, so I
removed C25, the 680 pF cap at Q6's emitter, and that stopped the
oscillations because I thereby reduced the gain of the amp.
Yes, taking out C25 will kill a lot of gain. Did you build the
latest version of the IF Amp that has the 47 Ohm resistor from the
emitter of Q7 to the 680 Ohm resistor that has the 680 pF capacitor
in parallel?
That circuit is much more stable than the original that didn't have
the 47 Ohm resistor.
>My voltage readings:
Q6 base = 1.05V
emitter = 0.4V
collector = 4.8V
Q7 base = 4.8V
emitter = 4.1V
collector = 13.4V
Those voltages are right on the money.
> I killed both Rx LO and VFO oscillators only to discover that the
IF cascode amp is oscillating on its own around 1755-1780 KHz!
Yikes!
> Inserting a 430 pF cap for C25 resulted in a 1.2V p-p sinewave at
approx. 2 MHz, like I mentioned before. Trying a 680 pF cap for C25
again resulted in a sinewave at approx 2 MHz at twice the amplitude,
2.4V p-p.
Go down to 270 pF if you are using the original circuit with just
a single resistor and capacitor in the emitter of Q7.
> I've read your comments on the modeling of the cascode amp on the
2n2_40 Yahoo 2n2_40 group and in particular your comments to Ken,
KD2KW on 12/17/01. Ken also experienced IF Amp oscillations. I'll try
"tuning" the IF amp by adjusting the bias to Q6 like you suggested to
Ken.
I don't remember those comments. I'll have to dig them out of
the archive. I should have them somewhere.
> T7 and T8 are wound correctly. The Hi-Z primary of T7 is connected
to the Xtal filter's output. I removed T9, checked all diodes (one
of them is off slightly in fwd R from the others). I'll try the 51
Ohm termination at conns 4 and 5 of the product detector xfmr that
you suggested; I noticed earlier that a 500 Ohm termination made and
improvement in LO feedback.
The 51 Ohm may solve all of the oscillation problems as it
better terminates the IF Amp output.
> I do receive cw sigs, but only with the RF preamp at 20 dB gain.
Replacing the old style preamp with the more recent Norton circuit
may or may not help me at this time so I'll wait on that.
It sure sounds like the IF Amp oscillating is killing the
sensitivity, which I would expect.
> Let me know your test results on the wirewrap wire, okay?
Some of the tri-twisted wire is on the toroid for the Product
Detector. It works really well, and is easy to wind, strip, and
terminate. Good stuff!! :-) Can't imagine I've ignored that stuff
for this long.
72 and TTUL, Jim, K8IQY
> PS....if I get some pictures taken tomorrow of the 2N2/20, I'll
send along one showing the Product Detector toroid with your wire on
it.
Hi gang,
As promised, I'm uploading edits of emails exchanged between
myself and Jim Kortge, K8IQY, concerning the problems,
troubleshooting, findings, fixes and finally success with my build
of the 2n2_40+. I apologize if some of this is repetitious.
BTW, my post prior to this one didn't have a subject line! OOPS!
Here's the seventh:
My email sent to Jim Kortge, K8IQY:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Przyborowski" <k3peg@comcast.net>
To: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 9:53 PM
Subject: A rundown of trials leading to some success
Hi Jim,
Grab a soft drink, this is sorta long...
Here's a step by step exploration and my findings (over the past
three days) of my 2n2_40's woes:
The first thing I tried was to rewind the product detector's SBM
xfmr. This time I used 30ga enameled wire in place of the wirewrap
wire. After carefully connecting it in place I found no difference
in Rx performance. The Rx LO bleed through "back" (not so sure about
that at this point) into the IF amp. I read a 2V p-p Rx LO sig on
Q8's collector at this point.
Killing the VFO made no change in this sig. I then next killed the
Rx Osc and observed the ~ 2MHz oscillation on Q8's collector just
like I told you before.
Started both the Rx and VFO osc back up and I found that shunting
the Rx LO at the SBM's port helped with the "feedback" signal, but
it also reduced the Rx gain. I removed the termination. I rewound
T9 again, this time with 30ga "tough enameled" wire. By tough I
mean you can't burn the enamel off with a soldering iron. No
improvement noticed.
I removed the bifilar wound xfmr T8 and examined it. Nothing unusual
noticed, but I decided to rewind it anyway. Upon removing the old
wire (26 ga Radio Shack, RS) I noticed that the wire was nicked
through the enamel clean down to its copper where it touched the
inside of the toroid! Inspection of the bare core revealed that
there's a very sharp inner periphery at the center of the "doughnut"
unlike that seen on the other toroids used in the rig. I thought
that I found something significant.... could it be that the windings
were shorted together or shorted by the core? Removal and inspection
of T7 revealed the same discovery.
I rewound both T7 and T8 with 30ga RS wire; however, this time I
coated The cores with clear nail polish and let them dry first. The
nail polish provided a cushion for the wires as they pass through
the core. And, I didn't pull the wires as tightly as I did
before . ;>)
Well, installing a new T7 and T8 must have helped somewhat, I
thought, but I couldn't make any hard measurements on Rx
sensitivity. The Rx LO sig at Q8's collector was still there, but
it was reduced slightly. I tried changing bias on the Q7 stage
(R23), but that made only a slight difference.
I noted very slight gain improvements, but the IF amp oscillations
were still prevalent. Swamping the primary (1-2 side) of T8 with
2.7K Ohms reduced both feedback and Rx gain. I removed the resistor
since it violated T8.
I decided to inspect the other FT37-43 toriods that I had wound with
RS 26 ga wire. I located the old T6 from the first RF preamp I
built and removed. I found that it T6 was wound with 26 ga RS wire
that was used the Norton preamp circuit. Now remember, I said
earlier that the common emitter preamp RF (now on the board) would
break into oscillation at random? So I ripped it out. I rebuilt the
Norton preamp (with a new "nail polished" toroid in place of the
common emitter RF preamp and it now worked FB!
Maybe those nicked wires were to blame? Whatever... it now works. I
can really peak the input band pass circuit now and Rx gain is up.
I measured the VFO drive to the DBM to be 1V p-p. The VFO's output
xfmr T5 required 430pF across its primary to get it to peak. I
didn't like this since it meant that T5 just wasn't "right". I
rewound the T5 xfmr with 30 ga. RS wire (it was 26ga) using another
FT37-61 toroid and inserted it and applied power. I found that T5's
primary now required a 300pF cap to resonate it. Thanks for those
300 pF NPO caps Jim! Now I measured the VFO drive to the DBM at
1.4V p-p. Yes! And, the Rx is a little more "hotter" now too.
On to other problems...
"What's with that product detector anyway?", I thought. I took
another look at the diodes. I removed them and measured one of them
to be about 8 mV fwd voltage drop off from the others, which were
within 2 mV of each other. I replaced all the diodes with another
matched set. No (audible) improvement was noted afterward. :>(
I took a real close look at the SBM product detector again. Lo and
behold... I found a wiring error! :<( Imagine that... I had the Rx
LO feeding the SBM at 4,5 and of course the IF was feeding at
connections 1 and 2. I swapped the leads, but I didn't see much
change in Rx sensitivity since the IF amp is still oscillating,
swamping the "natural" gain of that stage.
I "tightened-up" the Q6-Q7 layout, but that made no difference (T7
and T8 were oriented 90 degrees from one another). The microphonics
were back!
I put Q6-Q7 back the way they were on the original layout. As an
experiment, I reversed the leads 1 and 4 of T7 and found that the IF
oscillations were reduced slightly. I figured that a reduction in
gain may have occurred, but I wasn't certain. I put the leads back
to their proper positions. On a hunch, I rewound T7's secondary to
be 4 turns and reconnected it. The receiver worked a little better.
I thought about the microphonics again and knew they were attributed
to the IF amp oscillating. Tapping on T7 aggravated the microphonics
as I said before. I applied "nail polish" to both T7 and T8. The
IF amp was still oscillating. Touching T7 changed the oscillation
and stops the microphonic low frequency feedback if I pinch it. I
bent T7 over on its side so that it's doubly perpendicular to T8.
The position of T7 is very critical. I just now tried mounting T7
on the opposite of the board. The IF amp still oscillates! Q7 and
Q8 do not like me!
I'm about ready to take up playing the banjo I bought 25 years ago.
Can't play a chord, but at least I have stopped that from
oscillating for nearly a quarter century! ;-)
73, Larry - K3PEG
Hi gang,
As promised, I'm uploading edits of emails exchanged between
myself and Jim Kortge, K8IQY, concerning the problems,
troubleshooting, findings, fixes and finally success with my build
of the 2n2_40+. I again apologize if some of this is repetitious.
Here's the eighth:
Email reply rcv'd de Jim Kortge, K8IQY:
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <
jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: "Larry Przyborowski" <
k3peg@comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: A rundown of trials leading to some success
>Hi Jim,
Greetings Larry,
>Grab a soft drink, list is sorta long...
> Here's a step by step exploration and my findings (over the past
three days) of my 2n2_40's woes:
> The first thing I did was to rewind the product detector's SBM
xfmr. I read a 2V p-p Rx LO sig on Q8's collector at this point.
That's really a lot of signal. I don't understand why it is so
high. On my 2N2/30 which has the output of the IF Amp terminated
with 50 Ohms, it is about 60 mv p-p. On the 2N2/40+, which doesn't
have the IF Amp terminated, the level is about 200 mV p-p. If I
terminate the IF Amp in the 2N2/40+, the level drops by an order of
magnitude, around what it is in the 2N2/30. The signal level goes
down too, but that is because the LO is getting loaded more I
think. In fact, with a 50 Ohm termination, the LO quits with the
oscillator circuit that is in that rig. 100 Ohms drops the
feedthrough level significantly without affecting the LO all that
much, but you can hear the signal levels drop off some. That could
be made up by running the AF pre-amp a bit hotter by upping the
collector load resistor. In fact, in the 2N2/30, I've got a 2.7K in
the collector, and a 27 Ohm in the emitter above a 270 Ohm. The
decoupling resistor from Vcc is at 100 Ohms, and the collector
to base feedback capacitor has changed to 0.0033 uF. That gives you
a gain of 30 on that stage; quite a bit more than the configuration
in the 2N2/40+.
> Killing the VFO made no change in this sig. I then next killed
the Rx LO and observed the ~ 2MHz oscillation on Q8's collector just
like I told you before.
Well that sure illustrates something whacky in the layout, power
decoupling, or grounding. It would be interesting to see what
conditions you can get the amp to be stable by changing the emitter
resistor, or the emitter bypass capacitor. Raising the emitter
resistor from 47 Ohms up will kill some gain, as will lowering the
value of the emitter bypass across the 680 Ohm resistor.
> Started both the Rx and VFO oscs back up and I found that shunting
the Rx LO at the SBM's port helped reduce the "feedback" signal, but
it also reduced the Rx gain. I removed the termination. I rewound
T9 again; this time with 30ga "tough enameled" wire. By tough I
mean you can't burn the enamel off with a soldering iron. No
improvement noticed.
That would suggest the problem is not in the transformer, but
somewhere else.
> I removed the bifilar wound xfmr T8 and examined it. Nothing
unusual noticed, but I decided to rewind it anyway. Upon removing
the old wire (26 ga Radio Shack, RS) I noticed that the wire was
nicked through the enamel clean down to its copper where it touched
the inside of the toroid! Inspection of the bare toroid core
revealed that there's a very sharp inner periphery at the center of
the "doughnut" unlike that seen on the other toroids used in the
rig. I thought that I found something significant.... could it be
that the windings were shorted together or shorted by the core?
Removal of T7 revealed the same discovery.
> I rewound both T7 and T8 with 30ga RS wire; however, this time I
coated the cores with clear nail polish and let them dry first. The
nail polish provided a cushion for the wires as they pass through
the core. And, I didn't pull the wires as tightly as I did
before. ;>)
Do you wind with a crochet hook or some other means of backing the
wire through the core center? That really helps with the problem of
scraping insulation off. Of course, the crochet hook must be nice
and smooth, or it will damage the wire too.
I use either stainless steel or anodized aluminum crochet hooks that
I bought at the local craft store. I have them in several sizes,
and use the one that makes the most sense given the wire size and
core opening.
> Well, installing a new T7 and T8 must have helped somewhat, I
thought, but I couldn't make any hard measurements on Rx
sensitivity. The Rx LO feedback sig at Q8's collector was still
there, but it was reduced slightly. I tried changing bias on the Q7
stage (R23), but that made only a slight difference.
> I noted very slight gain improvements, but the IF amp oscillations
were still prevalent. Swamping the primary (1-2 side) of T8 with
2.7K Ohms reduced both feedback and Rx gain. I removed the resistor.
> I decided to inspect the other FT37-43 toriods that I had wound
with RS 26 ga wire. I located the T6 from the first RF preamp I
built and removed. I found that the old T6 was wound with 26 ga RS
wire. That was used the Norton preamp circuit. Now remember, I
said earlier that the common emitter preamp RF (now on the board)
would break into oscillation at random? So I ripped it out. I
rebuilt the Norton preamp (with a new "nail polished" toroid) in
place of the common emitter RF preamp and it now worked FB!
Oh, that's good to hear. I think that amplifier is a much better
choice, especially for improved noise figure.
> Maybe those nicked wires were to blame? Whatever... it now
works. I can really peak the input band pass circuit now and Rx
gain is up.
Good. With that RF Amplifier, can you terminate the IF Amp with
50 Ohms and still have enough gain for the rig to work well?
> I measured the VFO drive to the DBM to be 1V p-p. The VFO's
output xfmr T5 required 430pF across its primary to get it to peak.
I didn't like this since it meant the the T5 just wasn't "right". I
rewound the T5 xfmr with 30 ga RS wire (it was 26ga) using another
FT37-61 toroid and inserted it and applied power. I found that T5's
primary now required a 300pF cap to resonate it. Thanks for those
300pF NPO caps Jim! Now I measured the VFO drive to the DBM at 1.4V
p-p. Yes! And, the Rx is a little "hotter" now too.
Yes, I'll bet it is with that much drive. That's more on the order
of the +7 dBm that is needed to drive the DBM properly, although it
will work reasonably well with lower drive.
> On to other problems...
> "What's with that product detector anyway?", I thought. I took
another look at the diodes. I removed them and measured one of them
to be about 8 mV fwd voltage drop off from the others which were
within 2 mV of each other. I replaced all the diodes with another
matched set. No improvement was noted afterward. :>(
That should have improved (lowered) the feedback into the IF Amp, by
providing better balance.
> I took a real close look at the SBM product detector again. Lo and
behold... I found a wiring error! :<( Imagine that... I had the Rx
LO feeding the SBM at 4,5 and of course the IF was feeding at
connections 1 and 2. I swapped the leads, but I didn't see much
change in Rx sensitivity since the IF amp is still oscillating,
swamping the "natural" gain of that stage.
That change should provide much more drive to the diodes though, then
the prior arrangement. It should also improve the signal balance in
the SBM transformer, lowering the signal level getting back to the
IF Amp. The drive was applied to 1-2 to take advantage of the
transformer/diode balance, and keep the LO out of the IF Amp. In
terms of signal processing, either geometry will work equally well,
in theory.
> "tightened-up" the Q6-Q7 layout, but that made no difference (T7
and T8 were oriented 90 degrees from one another). The microphonics
were back! I put Q6-Q7 back the way they were on the layout. As an
experiment, I reversed the leads 1 and 4 of T7 and found that the IF
oscillations were reduced slightly. I figured that a reduction in
gain may have occurred, but I wasn't certain. I put the leads back
to their proper positions. On a hunch, I rewound T7's secondary to
be 4 turns and reconnected it. The receiver worked a little better.
Interesting, but I'm not sure what it means!
> I thought about the microphonics again and knew they were
attributed to the IF amp oscillating. Tapping on T7 aggravated the
microphonics as I said before. I applied "nail polish" to both T7
and T8. The IF amp was still oscillating. Touching T7 changed the
oscillation and stops the microphonic low frequency feedback if I
pinch it. I bent T7 over on its side so that it's doubly
perpendicular to T8. The position of T7 is very critical. I just
now tried mounting T7 on the opposite of the board. The IF amp still
oscillates! Q7 and Q8 do not like me!
Well it suggests to me that you're going to have to kill some gain
to get it stable. It is running too hot (too much gain) and
whatever is causing the feedback, and consequently the oscillation,
probably isn't going to be fixed by geometry changes at this point.
What bugs me though, is that I've used that amp in several rigs, and
it has worked
well if it doesn't run with too much gain. I'm wondering if you have
a batch of PN2222 transistors that are really high gain, well above
any that I've used, and that is the source of the problem.
> I'm about ready to take up playing the banjo I bought 25 years ago.
Can't play a chord, but at least I have stopped that from
oscillating for nearly a quarter century.!
Well I can understand your frustration, but just think how good
you're going to feel when you finally lick this problem and it is
all working correctly. We've all been through this exercise, and it
isn't fun, but sure feels good when a solution is found.
Unfortunately, much of this RF stuff is black magic, and sometimes
doesn't make a whole lot of sense, since we can't see what is really
going on.
Hopefully, some of the comments and observations I've sent along
will help. If I think of anything else, I'll send it along.
72,
Jim, K8IQYHi gang,
As promised, I'm uploading edits of emails exchanged between
myself and Jim Kortge, K8IQY, concerning the problems,
troubleshooting, findings, fixes and finally success with my build
of the 2n2_40+. Again, I apologize if some of this is repetitious.
Here's the ninth:
From: "Larry Przyborowski" <
k3peg@comcast.net>
To: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
jokortge@prodigy.net At 04:38 PM 3/10/2004
SUCCESS!!! The following says it all.
Larry K3PEG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: "Larry Przyborowski" <k3peg@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: Updated - A rundown of trials leading to FINALLY,
SUCCESS!
> Subject: RE: A rundown of trials leading to FINALLY, SUCCESS!
I knew you would get it working correctly. It just needed some
time and persuasion! :-)
> Good evening Jim,
> Man, grab a beer! If it wasn't so late I'd grab one for myself.
It works! I'll give you a complete rundown tomorrow.
Summary:
> Reconfigured IF cascode amp as standalone. Input to cascode amp
shorted to ground. Output terminated with 50 Ohms. Saw that VFO and
Rx LO sigs were getting into it (at Q8's collector) no matter what I
tried to do to stop it.
> Rx LO coupling was worse since it's freq is at the IF freq.
Shielding around the RxLO made an improvement. And remember, I said a
While back that I suspected the emitter components of Q8 were
picking up the Rx LO? I moved them away from choke L3 in the Rx LO
circuit? I noticed a change in the IF oscillations at that point
and I moved the L3 choke too, but there was a limit as to how far I
could move it. I got sidetracked the next evening and worked on the
RF amp. I remember my first try at the 2n2_40 a few years ago.... it
too oscillated and didn't work. I now believe my first build of the
2n2_40 (original circuit) failed due the same oscillation problems I
found in this build, possible shorted turns on toroid windings, a
bad xtal and whatnot.
So do you suppose the feedback path from from the Rx LO inductor
back to one of the toroids in the IF Amp? If so, that sort of
shoots the theory that toroid inductors are completely self
shielding, due to their geometry. If that is true, magnetic
shielding would be in order, like using some thin sheet steel, or
something metallic which is also magnetic too. Most interesting.....
> Removed short from IF amp input. Set IF input xfmr back to its
original config and reconnected it. Replaced ALL caps in the IF
cascode amp. Ohm checked all resistors in cascode amp. Replaced the
1st transistor in IF cascode amp. I used a metal 2n2222A this time.
> At this point, after powering up and o'scoping around, I realized
that both the VFO and the RxLO, to a much greater extent, were
coupling into the cascode IF amp. Note that neither the Rx LO nor
the VFO sigs were seen on the Vcc points near their circuits. I got
suspicious because I neatly dressed all Vcc leads on the backside of
the board parallel to one another. But, thankfully my suspicions
were negated. Moved Rx LO completely OFF the board.
> I rebuilt it on a secondary PCB. I connected the Rx LO outboard
with two 6-inch long, twisted pair wires; one pair for power and one
pair for rf out. Too excited at this point to prepare coax cable. hi
hi! I'll clean them up later. Note that I used the same Vcc pad for
its power. I left the old Rx LO parts, except for the xtal on the
board.
> I powered up the rig and set the Rx LO (I had to change the choke
in osc to 68 uHy in order to get it on frequency.
main board. I just forgot to change the choke in my haste to rebuild
the Rx LO. Hi hi! 3/21/01>
> Interesting. The crystal must be way up in frequency to need that
much pulling.
> Rvcr works good; I can hear my sig gen with no leads connected to
it!
Good sign.
> Checked Q8's collector for oscillations. The VFO bleedthrough and
or coupling is now at less than 200 mV p-p. YES!
That's more in line with what my 2N2/40+ is showing.
> Rx stable when connected to my huge outdoor 80m loop antenna.
Lots of cw heard. Strong sigs and weak ones too!
> The 2n2_40+ is working FB now. Rx is quiet, like you've said,
until a signal pops up from seemingly nowhere.
Yes, and it's not due to insufficient audio amplification either.
When I hear a signal, it is usually very loud. Most of the time I
have the RF gain control turned down some. There are signals on 40
that I can hear at good listening levels with the RF gain full down.
> I don't believe changing Q7 fixed anything. I also later bridged
the coupling cap from T8 to T9 with a 0.1 uF (10x the capacitance).
I noticed a big increase in recovered audio so I put the 0.1 uF in
place of the original 0.01 uF capacitor.
Interesting! I'll have to try that today and see if I observe the
same results.
> I'm going to try 15 turn DBM xfmrs like W1FB used in his designs.
My guess is that it won't make any difference. I've done some
rather broad banded transformers with as little as 4 bifilar turns.
> I want to experiment a little now that I have a working platform
from which to judge any changes. And I'll swap in/out other winding
variations using #30 ga wirewrap wire, #26 ga enameled wire, etc.
Keep good records. We may all learn some things from your
experiments.
> Oh, BTW my layout was very close to that used by others before me.
Go figure... It's magic!
More like voodoo I think! :-) Now where did I put that container
of chicken blood?
> This had me going in the wrong direction, troubleshooting wise. I
was always moving in circles; when one problem stumped me I'd move
on to another. After fixing two of the three problems I was having,
I was able to better focus on the IF amp oscillation problem. I
suspect that other 2n2_40+ builders may have had low Rx sensitivity
for the same reason I did, the Rx LO swamping the cascode IF amp.
Well perhaps, but I know of several that had deaf receivers because
the LO was so far away from the correct location on the xtal filter
curve that all of the signals were down 50 to 80 dB, maybe more.
That makes the receiver sound like it isn't working, when it really
is. The lack of audio noise threw them off also.
> Just tapping on T7 would cause microphonics bigtime.
> All I've got to do now is clean up the mess I've made, and wait
for the the parts that Mac, AF4PS, is send me to make this
rig "stock".
I think those went out yesterday, if I remember correctly. I did
get an email update from Mac sometime early this week about the
parts shipping.
> I'd like to upload all my trials and tribulations to the Yahoo
2n2_40 group for their benefit.
I think that is a great idea. It will be most helpful to many of
the builders.
> I'd first tell the group that my 2n2_40 was working, and it was a
battle to get it there. Then I'd tell them that I had a lot to
share, but that it's too much for a single posting. I'd then break
my questions and your answers, thoughts and suggestions into parcels
and upload one each day. What do you think?
Do it......
> Lets celebrate! ;<)
We will do a bit of that at Atlanticon......
> I'm having a few 807s tonight~!! :0). I'll need a designated
solderer for sure! hi hi!
> 73, Jim es thanks so much for your comments, suggestions and
support!
Well you did all of the work. I just provided a bit of hand holding
and a few suggestions. I'm just delighted you got it working well,
and you did it by doing a magnificent job of analysis and
troubleshooting. Most impressive!!
72, and many thanks for the great feedback and updates.
Jim, K8IQY
Hi gang,
There you have it. It's a lot of reading, but worth your time if you
run into problems like I did with my 2n2_40 build.
I'll bring my 2n2_40+ and other projects to Atlanticon 2004, and I
hope to meet some of you there. Look for Jim Kortge, K8IQY; I'll be
by his side studying his 2n2_20 creation, the next subject for
my "Extreme Manhattan" MS PowerPoint layout.
I'll upload a revised 2n2_40+ layout for you all to follow, if you
wish. The actual one I used was done in December 2002. It's a bit
outdated and has been modified at least 30 times (no kidding) since
I finished buildng my 2n2_20+. My layout includes the RIT, J176
mute,
Many thanks to Jim Kortge, K8IQY, for his cool 2n2_40+ design,
encouragement and helpful comments. Many thanks Jim!
Many Thanks to Mac, AF4PS, for getting me those lone special parts I
need to make my 2n2_40+ stock. Thanks Mac!
Thanks to Diz, W8DIZ, those generosity help make the 2n2_40 Flying
Pigs Group Buy a success. Thanks Diz!
Thanks to Dennis, WB0WAO, for his crystal matching effort and parts
help. Thanks Dennis!
And, thanks to Brian for supplying the diodes and anyone else who
help make the 2n2_40 Flying Pigs Group Buy a reality. Thanks Brian!
Vy 73 de Larry - K3PEG
I love the smell of flux in the morning... smells like circuitry!
|
2883|2883|2004-03-24 21:57:46|macstein@aol.com|Flying Pigs 2n2-40+ Group Build/Buy BACKORDERED PARTS|Backordered parts are on the way to me according to Mouser! I'll ship them
right out as soon as I get home... I'm on vacation.
(Piggies, I hope you are paying attention to the 2n2 Yahoo Group stuff.
Larry and Jim posted a ton of troubleshooting info there.)
-MAC-
AF4PS
FP-51
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2884|2884|2004-03-24 22:33:39|jfelts13|Got PC|Well I got my PC board, she is about 12" x 12". Now I can't find my
darn nibbler, its around here somewhere. hi
I've gotten sidetracked ever since Saturday. I have put my 2m beam
back up on a temp pole, I'm getting a tower for free Sunday. Then
I've been busy putting a 4BTV vertical together and getting it
mounted in the back yard. Been on 40m PSK with it all evening, works
great!
Ok, hope to get back to the 2N40 soon! Glad the BO parts are on the
way.
So like are your others in the group buy dealie doing?
Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota
|
2885|2868|2004-03-25 05:56:23|kb9bvn|Re: Copperclad PCB|Mac,
I plan on starting my rig this weekend and I have been toying with
the idea of making it in modules.
Jim...is there any downside to doing it this way? I was going to use
shielded coax and ground strips to connect them together.
I, like Mac, thought this would make it easier to experiment with...
72 de KB9BVN
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, macstein@a... wrote:
>
> Hey Jerry NR5A,
>
> If you don't find a 5x7 or larger piece of copperclad, you might
opt to build
> "modules" on smaller pieces of copperclad. You could hook them
together with
> ground straps and shielded coax runs. Many of us did the Multi-Pig
rig this
> way. I am going to do this, so I can experiment.
>
> -MAC-
> AF4PS
> Odessa, FL
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
KB9BVN
Doing so might also make simulation of module performance a real
possibility. We are using Multisim by Electronics Workbench in the school.
This would make a great pre-build exercise for my students.
Howard, N3FEL
-----Original Message-----
From: kb9bvn [mailto:
kb9bvn@arrl.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 5:56 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Copperclad PCB
Mac,
I plan on starting my rig this weekend and I have been toying with
the idea of making it in modules.
Jim...is there any downside to doing it this way? I was going to use
shielded coax and ground strips to connect them together.
I, like Mac, thought this would make it easier to experiment with...
72 de KB9BVN
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, macstein@a... wrote:
>
> Hey Jerry NR5A,
>
> If you don't find a 5x7 or larger piece of copperclad, you might
opt to build
> "modules" on smaller pieces of copperclad. You could hook them
together with
> ground straps and shielded coax runs. Many of us did the Multi-Pig
rig this
> way. I am going to do this, so I can experiment.
>
> -MAC-
> AF4PS
> Odessa, FL
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yahoo! Groups Links
At 10:56 AM 3/25/2004 +0000, KB9BVN wrote:
>Mac,
>
>I plan on starting my rig this weekend and I have been toying with
>the idea of making it in modules.
>
>Jim...is there any downside to doing it this way?
No, not at all. It might end up a bit larger of they are all
layed flat, but could be smaller if some (or all) of the modules are
vertically positioned. Lots of flexibility when building a
rig as modules.
> I was going to use
>shielded coax
Use this for input and output signals.
> and ground strips to connect them together.
Probably overkill. 20 or 22 guage hookup wire should be
sufficient for carrying power and grounds from some common
point to the various modules. Ditto for the few control lines
that are involved.
>I, like Mac, thought this would make it easier to experiment with...
Yup....it adds that flexibility.
GL and keep us all posted,
Jim, K8IQY
At 07:26 AM 3/25/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>KB9BVN
>
>Doing so might also make simulation of module performance a real
>possibility. We are using Multisim by Electronics Workbench in the school.
>This would make a great pre-build exercise for my students.
>
>Howard, N3FEL
Howard,
Most, if not all, of the rig was designed with EWB, the predecessor
of MultiSim. I agree, it would be an excellent way for the students
to better understand what is going on in each stage.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
THis group has a lot of info. Would someone be kind enough to start
me in the right direction. In other words, where is a good starting
point?
Thanks,
Tracy
|
2890|2890|2004-03-28 15:07:34|jfelts13|Which One?|Couldn't find my nibbler so went to both Rat Shacks here, and I guess
they don't carry them anymore. I'll have to make my pads a different
way.
Took my large piece of PC board and cut a hunk 5 x 7 out of it, then
cut up some pads and epoxied them down for the Rx/Tx Driver. Dug my
parts out for it and I'm curious, Q22 is a plastic type, and Q21 is a
metal one according to parts list. Looking at pictures on Jim's
webpage both transistors look like plastic. So I'm curious why a
metal one?
I'm doing the Flyin Pigs build, maybe there is a change somewhere and
I'm over looking it, anyway just curious, why????
Jerry - Nr5A - South Dakota - FP585
|
2891|2890|2004-03-28 21:18:44|Lee Mairs|Re: Which One?|The metal 2N2222s are to be used in the driver and the three final amplifier
transistors. The plastic versions are fine everywhere else.
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "jfelts13" <nr5a@rap.midco.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2004 3:07 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Which One?
> Couldn't find my nibbler so went to both Rat Shacks here, and I guess
> they don't carry them anymore. I'll have to make my pads a different
> way.
>
> Took my large piece of PC board and cut a hunk 5 x 7 out of it, then
> cut up some pads and epoxied them down for the Rx/Tx Driver. Dug my
> parts out for it and I'm curious, Q22 is a plastic type, and Q21 is a
> metal one according to parts list. Looking at pictures on Jim's
> webpage both transistors look like plastic. So I'm curious why a
> metal one?
>
> I'm doing the Flyin Pigs build, maybe there is a change somewhere and
> I'm over looking it, anyway just curious, why????
>
> Jerry - Nr5A - South Dakota - FP585
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Look for a small padded envelope containing:
the optional trimcap,
the 2.7K resistors
the trimpot for power adjustment
the toroid I think I left out of some kits
Hey, NOBODY let me know of mising parts... I'm finding that hard to believe.
Thanks again for your patience.
Larry P., those extra Silver Mica caps came in.
Lloyd, your parts are in the box with the antler stuff.
-MAC-
AF4PS
FP-51
Odessa, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2893|2890|2004-03-30 12:06:10|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Which One?|At 08:07 PM 3/28/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Couldn't find my nibbler so went to both Rat Shacks here, and I guess
>they don't carry them anymore. I'll have to make my pads a different
>way.
>
>Took my large piece of PC board and cut a hunk 5 x 7 out of it, then
>cut up some pads and epoxied them down for the Rx/Tx Driver. Dug my
>parts out for it and I'm curious, Q22 is a plastic type, and Q21 is a
>metal one according to parts list. Looking at pictures on Jim's
>webpage both transistors look like plastic. So I'm curious why a
>metal one?
They can both be plastic. The metal one is probably an anomaly
from somewhere, or I used a metal one in the original 2N2/40
and the parts list never got updated. Don't worry about it.
>I'm doing the Flyin Pigs build, maybe there is a change somewhere and
>I'm over looking it, anyway just curious, why????
>
>Jerry - Nr5A - South Dakota - FP585
72 and have fun building Jerry,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....wait until you guys see the 2N2/40+ that Larry, K3PEG
won the Atlanticon building contest with. Absolutely stunning
and a very creative approach. He deserved to win!!
Well, you done good on mine! All there, only things missing was the
backordered stuff. I've got the board ready, got the parts out for
the Rx/Tx Driver stage, just got to find the time. Actually if I'd
stop playing with the 4BTV I just put up, and stop working 20m PSK DX
I could find the time. hi hi And my excuse tonite, worked a KP4, then
worked on my F-16 RC airplane. I promise I'll get to it!!
Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota - FP585
Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota - FP585
|
2895|2895|2004-03-31 00:05:21|Larry Przyborowski|"Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ pictures and layout|Hi gang,
As I promised to do, I've just uploaded two pictures of my "Extreme
Manhattan" 2n2_40+ rig and a copy of my revised layout. I'll do
another layout in the near future that will show eight individual
circuit layouts for those of you who wish to build your 2n2_40+
modular style. Look for it soon. ;-)
The layout I've uploaded (version 1) is for a 5"x7" board size. It
is based on the "11/25/2003" dated files uploaded by Jim, K8IQY.
Included in my layout are the J176 Rx Mute, 1st Audio preamp and the
2n7000 RIT circuitry.
Have fun building your 2n2_40+.
Vy 72 de Larry - K3PEG
|
2896|2895|2004-03-31 06:30:54|Jeff Noel|Re: "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ pictures and layout|Larry,
Your pictures look great. How can I get a full size copy of your layout?
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2897|2895|2004-03-31 08:37:00|Larry Howard Mittman|Re: "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ pictures and layout|Larry Przyborowski wrote:
> Hi gang,
>
> As I promised to do, I've just uploaded two pictures of my "Extreme
> Manhattan" 2n2_40+ rig and a copy of my revised layout. I'll do
> another layout in the near future that will show eight individual
> circuit layouts for those of you who wish to build your 2n2_40+
> modular style. Look for it soon. ;-)
>
> The layout I've uploaded (version 1) is for a 5"x7" board size. It
> is based on the "11/25/2003" dated files uploaded by Jim, K8IQY.
> Included in my layout are the J176 Rx Mute, 1st Audio preamp and the
> 2n7000 RIT circuitry.
>
> Have fun building your 2n2_40+.
>
> Vy 72 de Larry - K3PEG
>
I just went to the site and could not find your pictures nor your
layout! Where are they?
Larry
--
GnuPG Public Key ID: 773C9DDA
================================================
Never cross a Dragon, for you are crunchy and taste delicious!
My Interests are:
Ham Radio (N8MGU) | Opera | Theater | Sailing | Judaica
I, also, could not figure out how to view the approx 350K sized file that the
thumbnail said existed. Is this just a Yahoo training issue for me?
73, Jim
--
Jim Larsen, AL7FS
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.qsl.net/al7fs Join Anchorage ARC:
http://www.KL7AA.org Jeff Noel wrote:
> Larry,
>
> Your pictures look great. How can I get a full size copy of your layout?
>
> Jeff
>
Upload the layout to the Files section, otherwise the only people
that can see the image in full size are the uploader and those who
pay for the premium service ... the rest of us just get to see a
thumbnail sized photo
J. R.
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Larry Przyborowski"
wrote:
> Hi gang,
>
> As I promised to do, I've just uploaded two pictures of my "Extreme
> Manhattan" 2n2_40+ rig and a copy of my revised layout. I'll do
> another layout in the near future that will show eight individual
> circuit layouts for those of you who wish to build your 2n2_40+
> modular style. Look for it soon. ;-)
>
> The layout I've uploaded (version 1) is for a 5"x7" board size. It
> is based on the "11/25/2003" dated files uploaded by Jim, K8IQY.
> Included in my layout are the J176 Rx Mute, 1st Audio preamp and
the
> 2n7000 RIT circuitry.
>
> Have fun building your 2n2_40+.
>
> Vy 72 de Larry - K3PEG
Hello John,
Sorry for my misunderstanding.
Okay, will do. I've created a pdf file of the layout. With Adobe
Acrobat reader you can really magnify the layout.
If anyone wants the pictures sent directly to them please email me
with that request.
73, Larry
wrote:
> Upload the layout to the Files section, otherwise the only people
> that can see the image in full size are the uploader and those who
> pay for the premium service ... the rest of us just get to see a
> thumbnail sized photo
>
> J. R.
Hi gang,
I've uploaded my "Enhanced Manhattan" 2n2_40+ layout to the "files"
section as a pdf file. It is titled "EM_2n2_40+_Layout_V1.PDF". With
Adobe Acrobat reader you can really magnify it!
If you want the pictures of my 2n2_40+ sent directly to you, please
email me a request for them. File sizes are 323KB and 450KB. My
other email address is "mycall"@comcast.net .
72, Larry - K3PEG
|
2902|2889|2004-04-01 14:07:49|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: New to the Group|At 10:22 AM 3/26/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>THis group has a lot of info. Would someone be kind enough to start
>me in the right direction. In other words, where is a good starting
>point?
>
>Thanks,
>Tracy
Hi Tracy,
Welcome to the 2n2-40 builders group. I'd start by looking at the
original 2N2/40 info at www.qsl.net/k8iqy That info is kinda old
now, but is has a lot of information regarding the history of the
2N2/40 rig.
The Yahoo 2n2-40 site was started a few years ago when John, N1QO
decided to build a 2N2/40 rig, and asked if anybody else was interested.
About 120 folks signed up, and several rigs were successfully built.
Following that, as second group built rigs also, and now, several of
the Flying Pigs are involved in a group build. In the meantime, I've
designed the 30 meter version of the rig, called what else, the 2N2/30,
and most of the details of that rig are on the 2n2-40 web site.
If you are a registered member, you can look at all of the various
pictures submitted by myself and others, along with the various files
which are schematics etc. for the rigs, updates, etc.
I just finished designing and building a 2N2/20 rig, and it will
eventually end up on the same web site when the documentation is
finished.
Guess that's an overview. Have fun, and build something! :-)
Jim, K8IQY
All
Is there anything new on the 2n215? I have seen the information up
on Jim's site but I noticed that the info is not down in the files or
photo sections of this group. I was wondering if there was anything
new that one should be aware of or is the 2n215 described in Jim's
site the most recent and a good to go design with current parts
descriptions etc.
Steve
|
2904|2903|2004-04-02 17:30:01|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2n2/15|At 06:19 PM 4/2/2004 +0000, Steve wrote:
>All
>
>Is there anything new on the 2n215?
No, that project is still in idle mode.
> I have seen the information up
>on Jim's site but I noticed that the info is not down in the files or
>photo sections of this group.
That's correct, nothing was moved to the Yahoo site. It probably
will be if and when I re-activate that project.
> I was wondering if there was anything
>new that one should be aware of or is the 2n215 described in Jim's
>site the most recent and a good to go design with current parts
>descriptions etc.
It is buildable as is, but I've learned a few things along the way
that I would change in that design to make it a bit simpler and more
buildable by the intended audience, namely, hams in developing
countries. I need to do a reset on the available parts they can get.
Dennis, WB8WAO built the receiver I believe, and has it working.
The transmit section will probably be quite similar to the 2N2/30
and 2N2/20 designs.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
No misunderstanding, I only know about this after making the same
mistake myself on another group. Thing is when I'd go look at it, it
would be full size and I couldn't figure out why people were
complaining about it being too small ... then someone suggested using
the Files section as a work around ...
BTW, outstanding job on that layout diagram, I even printed it out
and I don't really need it right now ... It's so purty I may just
frame it and hang it on the wall of my workshop ...
J. R.
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Larry Przyborowski"
wrote:
> Hello John,
>
> Sorry for my misunderstanding.
>
> Okay, will do. I've created a pdf file of the layout. With Adobe
> Acrobat reader you can really magnify the layout.
>
> If anyone wants the pictures sent directly to them please email me
> with that request.
>
> 73, Larry
>
> wrote:
> > Upload the layout to the Files section, otherwise the only people
> > that can see the image in full size are the uploader and those
who
> > pay for the premium service ... the rest of us just get to see a
> > thumbnail sized photo
> >
> > J. R.
Hi J.R.,
Thanks for your comments on my "Extreme Manhattan" ("EM") template.
I uploaded the layout in pdf file format because it allows everyone
to really magnify the layout and view it while building. And, anyone
may print their own full-sized, color template and homebrew the
2n2_40+ from it. You can magnify the pdf display thousands of times
and not see any jagged lines ;-).
I decided to color-code various components on the layout when I
realized what a nifty building aid it would be. Although I've
checked my layout a number of times, I've got to check it again for
any errors that I may have made. I invite others to point out errors
they find too. It's difficult to find one's own errors. I know! ;-0
HI hi! So, to anyone reading this email message please check my
layout against the schematics in the "files" area and post your
findings. Thanks!
The layout I used to build my 2n2_40+ was done in December, 2002.
The layout I've uploaded is a much better one, IMHO. For example, I
moved the Rx LO circuit farther away from the Q6-Q7 cascode IF amp
to reduce undesirable pickup of the the RxLO signal by IF amp. And,
I've added greater detail to some areas... like the Rx preamp
circuit, for example.
I'm working on a similar "EM" layout that will enable anyone to
build the 2n2_40+ in modular fashion. At Atlanticon 2004 a few
Flying Pigs members expressed an interest in building their 2n2_40s
that way. After I finish the modular layout, I'll do some
other "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_XX rig layouts in the future.
I can't wait to get my hands on Jim's new 2n2_20 xcvr design
schematics. ;-)
72 de Larry - K3PEG
|
2907|2895|2004-04-03 16:52:41|Jim Larsen - AL7FS|Jim-K8IQY- new 2n2_20 xcvr design|Larry Przyborowski wrote:
> I can't wait to get my hands on Jim's new 2n2_20 xcvr design
> schematics. ;-)
BTW, Jim's 2n2_20 works just fine. I worked him and his new rig at 0106Z on
March 31. He mentioned he has some finishing touches yet to do. He said,
"...still working on it, finishing the RIT circuitry and the display. The
gang at Atlanticon thought it was neat..."
I can well imagine they would. :-)
73, Jim
Jim Larsen, AL7FS
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.qsl.net/al7fs Join Anchorage ARC:
http://www.KL7AA.orgLarry -
Let me know when you get another 2N2-XX rig laid out like yours at
Atlanticon. That was truly a masterpiece of construction. Tell me again
where you got the nifty case?
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Przyborowski" <k3peg@comcast.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2004 4:15 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ pictures and layout
> Hi J.R.,
>
> Thanks for your comments on my "Extreme Manhattan" ("EM") template.
> I uploaded the layout in pdf file format because it allows everyone
> to really magnify the layout and view it while building. And, anyone
> may print their own full-sized, color template and homebrew the
> 2n2_40+ from it. You can magnify the pdf display thousands of times
> and not see any jagged lines ;-).
>
> I decided to color-code various components on the layout when I
> realized what a nifty building aid it would be. Although I've
> checked my layout a number of times, I've got to check it again for
> any errors that I may have made. I invite others to point out errors
> they find too. It's difficult to find one's own errors. I know! ;-0
> HI hi! So, to anyone reading this email message please check my
> layout against the schematics in the "files" area and post your
> findings. Thanks!
>
> The layout I used to build my 2n2_40+ was done in December, 2002.
> The layout I've uploaded is a much better one, IMHO. For example, I
> moved the Rx LO circuit farther away from the Q6-Q7 cascode IF amp
> to reduce undesirable pickup of the the RxLO signal by IF amp. And,
> I've added greater detail to some areas... like the Rx preamp
> circuit, for example.
>
> I'm working on a similar "EM" layout that will enable anyone to
> build the 2n2_40+ in modular fashion. At Atlanticon 2004 a few
> Flying Pigs members expressed an interest in building their 2n2_40s
> that way. After I finish the modular layout, I'll do some
> other "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_XX rig layouts in the future.
>
> I can't wait to get my hands on Jim's new 2n2_20 xcvr design
> schematics. ;-)
>
> 72 de Larry - K3PEG
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Lee Mairs (SAG)"
wrote:
> Larry -
> Let me know when you get another 2N2-XX rig laid out like yours at
> Atlanticon. That was truly a masterpiece of construction. Tell >
> me again where you got the nifty case?
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy/8
Lee,
Look for the case in WalMarts where cosmetics are sold. I bought
this case with cosmetics in it last October. Cost was abt $10 if I
remember correctly. The case is a bargain at that price, IMO. Steve
Weber, KD1JV, told me that he saw them in WalMart in Hew Hampshire.
73, Larry - K3PEG
Glen Burnie, MDLarry,
Your up to date layout may just be what it
takes to get me started. I have an AZScorpion
board that needs to be updated to the 40+ thats
been sitting on the shelf for a bit.
Have you got a web page somewhere??
I left Atlanticon abt 9pm but heard you won
the building contest, congratulations and thank
you for sharing your layout.
73, Jim WD4OJY
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/Hi Jim,
Thanks Jim! I don't have a personal web page at this time, but I'll
have one soon. I'm working on the modular 2n2_20+ layout today.
73, Larry - K3PEG
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, James McKinley wrote:
> Larry,
> Your up to date layout may just be what it
> takes to get me started. I have an AZScorpion
> board that needs to be updated to the 40+ thats
> been sitting on the shelf for a bit.
> Have you got a web page somewhere??
> I left Atlanticon abt 9pm but heard you won
> the building contest, congratulations and thank
> you for sharing your layout.
>
> 73, Jim WD4OJY
Hi all,
I've uploaded two closeup pictures taken of my "EM" 2n2_40+ layout.
73, Larry - K3PEG
|
2913|2895|2004-04-04 14:50:28|Jeff Noel|Re: "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ pictures and layout|Larry,
How did you put the layout on the board? Did you print it out, punch out the holes for the pads and grounds and glue it on the board?
But it sure looks good.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2914|2895|2004-04-04 21:00:13|Larry Przyborowski|Re: "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ pictures and layout|Hi Jeff,
Thanks! See message 2872. In it I explain how fabricated the "EM"
board. I didn't actually drill the pad locations, I used a piece of
metal tubing to punch them out. A drill press helps too. It's a bit
time comsuming to do, but worthwhile. I only "drilled" out the
ground locations. Epoxy was used to attach the Manhattan pads.
73, Larry
"Jeff Noel"
wrote:
> Larry,
>
> How did you put the layout on the board? Did you print it out,
punch out the holes for the pads and grounds and glue it on the
board?
>
> But it sure looks good.
>
> Jeff
Larry
Now that is confidence, using expoxy to attach the pads!!!!!! I noticed
that in the uploaded picture of your layout there was some wording right
next to the layout but in the file section where you uploaded the layout the
wording is not in the pdf file. I am curious if you can upload the wording
that went along with the layout in the pdf file as well for all of us.
I understand that you are working on the layout of the new 2N220
transceiver. You indicated that it is a modular layout, can you give us guys
who are drooling at the mouth a little more data on your project? I for one
am getting ready for the new radio and want to think about collecting
hardware parts. Will we need a board the same size as the 2N240 is built
around (5X7) or will we need something different..
Steve NU0P
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Przyborowski" <k3peg@comcast.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2004 8:00 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ pictures and layout
>
>
> Hi Jeff,
>
> Thanks! See message 2872. In it I explain how fabricated the "EM"
> board. I didn't actually drill the pad locations, I used a piece of
> metal tubing to punch them out. A drill press helps too. It's a bit
> time comsuming to do, but worthwhile. I only "drilled" out the
> ground locations. Epoxy was used to attach the Manhattan pads.
>
> 73, Larry
>
> "Jeff Noel" wrote:
> > Larry,
> >
> > How did you put the layout on the board? Did you print it out,
> punch out the holes for the pads and grounds and glue it on the
> board?
> >
> > But it sure looks good.
> >
> > Jeff
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hi Steve,
Heh, heh. Actually, epoxy will work best if you elect to stick the
Manhattan pads directly onto the paper template. If you choose to
use "Crazy glue" then the paper should be cut away for good
adhesion. And, most important, I did just that in my prototype, but
I used the thick version of the "Crazy glue" because it fills voids
much better. I mix small amounts of 5 minute epoxy at a time and
then glue down 10-15 pads. Simply grab the pad with a pair of
tweezes, dip into epoxy lightly and place onto the "EM" template.
I'm working on a modular layout for the 2n2_40+ right now. I saw
Jim's 2n2_20 rig at Atlanticon (very nice!), but I haven't given
thought to a layout template for it just yet. Jim's making final
touches, I believe, before he posts his design. If I remember right,
Jim's 2n2_20 rig was built on a board close in size to the 2n2_40.
The following are my comments that were on the layout page. I
removed them because I'm adding to them. Here's a look-see:
---------------------------------------
Note: Top View shown for all transistors and varactors.
"Extreme Manhattan" - Steps to production
Select a "proven" circuit. Important!!
Design layout.
Print draft, check against schematic.
Redo layout as necessary and recheck against schematic.
Inkjet print template on heavy weight, letter size label paper.
Spray print with clear plastic to protect ink.
"Drill" out all 125 ground connection areas on template.
Place template over Cu clad board.
Mark copper clad through "open" ground areas with a "Sharpie"
marker.
Remove template from board and solder tin all ground areas.
Remove excess solder with "Solder wick".
Clean flux from board.
Hardest part
Remove sticky backing protection from template and
carefully align and place it onto the Cu clad board. You get ONE
try!!
Avoid air pockets. Firmly roll template onto Cu clad board.
Drill through holes for wire interconnects (beneath board).
Drill through holes for board mounting (5 places).
Apply punched island pads to the 185 pads using epoxy adhesive.
I haven't tried "Instant Glue" to secure pads to a paper template.
Install all short and long wire jumpers, insulated or not.
Install all interconnect wires on top of board and through template
to the backside. Secure with adhesive where necessary.
Note that all parts are color-coded! Refer to key at page bottom.
Install all resistors, capacitors, chokes, diodes, trimmer caps
that
have a ground plane connection. Periodically Ohm check between
Vcc and the copper ground plane for shorts.
Install T10, the output transformer. Solder its tabs to ground
plane.
Select a section to build. If any toroids are required in that
section,
wind them! Label each toroid for identification later. Cut all
lead
lengths to ¾" long. Strip about 3/16" of enamel from wires and
tin.
More to follow...
73 de Larry - K3PEG
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" wrote:
> Larry
>
> Now that is confidence, using expoxy to attach the pads!!!!!! I
noticed
> that in the uploaded picture of your layout there was some wording
right
> next to the layout but in the file section where you uploaded the
layout the
> wording is not in the pdf file. I am curious if you can upload
the wording
> that went along with the layout in the pdf file as well for all of
us.
>
> I understand that you are working on the layout of the new 2N220
> transceiver. You indicated that it is a modular layout, can you
give us guys
> who are drooling at the mouth a little more data on your project?
I for one
> am getting ready for the new radio and want to think about
collecting
> hardware parts. Will we need a board the same size as the 2N240
is built
> around (5X7) or will we need something different..
>
> Steve NU0P
At 08:44 PM 4/4/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>-snip-
>I understand that you are working on the layout of the new 2N220
>transceiver. You indicated that it is a modular layout, can you give us guys
>who are drooling at the mouth a little more data on your project? I for one
>am getting ready for the new radio and want to think about collecting
>hardware parts. Will we need a board the same size as the 2N240 is built
>around (5X7) or will we need something different..
Mine is built on a 5X7 inch substrate. Tight in some places, open
in others, so probably ok for the builders who have already constructed
a /40 or /30 on the same size substrate. More details as I have
time to create the documentation. OzarkCon this weekend!! :-)
The 2N2/20 will be there.......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I was afraid that you would tell me that it was going to be in Joplin this
weekend, and I can not convince my wife to make the drive with me..... Well
if you can not get all the docs done how bout a quick peak at the
schematic??
steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ pictures and layout
> At 08:44 PM 4/4/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >-snip-
>
>
> >I understand that you are working on the layout of the new 2N220
> >transceiver. You indicated that it is a modular layout, can you give us
guys
> >who are drooling at the mouth a little more data on your project? I for
one
> >am getting ready for the new radio and want to think about collecting
> >hardware parts. Will we need a board the same size as the 2N240 is built
> >around (5X7) or will we need something different..
>
> Mine is built on a 5X7 inch substrate. Tight in some places, open
> in others, so probably ok for the builders who have already constructed
> a /40 or /30 on the same size substrate. More details as I have
> time to create the documentation. OzarkCon this weekend!! :-)
> The 2N2/20 will be there.......
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
At 09:45 PM 4/5/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I was afraid that you would tell me that it was going to be in Joplin this
>weekend, and I can not convince my wife to make the drive with me..... Well
>if you can not get all the docs done how bout a quick peak at the
>schematic??
I don't have the schematic drawn! How could I build a rig without
a schematic you ask? Easy, it was built from the Electronic
Workbench SPICE modeling schematics for each section. No easy way
of combining those though. No I have to take the time with my
WinDraw package and create the overall schematic and parts list.
A good solid week of work to do that.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Someone contacted me about being able to purchase a resistor pack for
this project. I have been collecting parts for quite sometime and
this is as far as I know all I lack. Would this person please contact
me again...Thank you es 73...Ed
|
2921|2921|2004-04-08 20:50:48|jfelts13|Step One Done|Well I got the first stage done, the Rx/Tx Driver is built. I'll
check it out tomorrow evening. I'm assuming if I put some kind of
voltage on Vcc and ground the key line I'm going to see something
happen at Tx line, correct? Guess I'll have to try and take a picture
and post it as I build it huh?
Jerry - NR5A - FP585
|
2922|2922|2004-04-09 04:55:30|Larry Przyborowski|I found a new and inexpensive source for a nibbling tool!|Hi,
If you're in need of or interested in buying a low cost, good performance
nibbling tool read on.
For me need has nothing to do with it; I simply wanted one. Hi, hi! ;-)
I came across this item while shopping at Best Buy today. It's made by
"Modware" and advertised as a PC case cutting tool. There are people out
there who wish to jazz up their PC by adding internal lights and extra
illuminated fans. This nibbler allows them to make the necessary case
cutouts, add a plastic window and view those added goodies.
If it works for them it works for me too, so naturally I bought one.
Specs for this nibbler are:
"Cuts steel up to 18 gauge (0.046"). 1.5 mm (1/16") copper, aluminum,
plastic and other unhardened materials."
Its finish is semi polished steel w/ rubber. It's about 8 inches long.
I've already tried it on PC board, and it works just fine; just as good as
my old trusty 30 yr old Adel nibbling tool.
For the mere cost of $4.99 plus sales tax you too can own one of these
"jewels".
Manhattan builders and homebrewing chassis hackers out there alike take
note, "Get ya one!"
Best Buy's sku # is 6057063 description is "CWTOOL".
How much you guys wanna bet they sell out ot these in the next few days??
And, they (Best Buy) can't figure why?? Hi hi!
BTW, If you want to see a picture of this nibbling tool email me, and I'll
send you one.
73/72 de Larry - K3PEG
|
2923|2922|2004-04-09 08:48:38|Harry Leung|Re: I found a new and inexpensive source for a nibbling tool!|Hi Larry,
Please send me your nibbling tool paicture. Thanks.
with regards. 73 de Harry.
--- Larry Przyborowski <
k3peg@comcast.net> wrote:
---------------------------------
Hi,
If you're in need of or interested in buying a low
cost, good performance
nibbling tool read on.
For me need has nothing to do with it; I simply wanted
one. Hi, hi! ;-)
I came across this item while shopping at Best Buy
today. It's made by
"Modware" and advertised as a PC case cutting tool.
There are people out
there who wish to jazz up their PC by adding internal
lights and extra
illuminated fans. This nibbler allows them to make the
necessary case
cutouts, add a plastic window and view those added
goodies.
If it works for them it works for me too, so naturally
I bought one.
Specs for this nibbler are:
"Cuts steel up to 18 gauge (0.046"). 1.5 mm (1/16")
copper, aluminum,
plastic and other unhardened materials."
Its finish is semi polished steel w/ rubber. It's
about 8 inches long.
I've already tried it on PC board, and it works just
fine; just as good as
my old trusty 30 yr old Adel nibbling tool.
For the mere cost of $4.99 plus sales tax you too can
own one of these
"jewels".
Manhattan builders and homebrewing chassis hackers out
there alike take
note, "Get ya one!"
Best Buy's sku # is 6057063 description is "CWTOOL".
How much you guys wanna bet they sell out ot these in
the next few days??
And, they (Best Buy) can't figure why?? Hi hi!
BTW, If you want to see a picture of this nibbling
tool email me, and I'll
send you one.
73/72 de Larry - K3PEG
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
Terms of Service.
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.caIn a message dated 4/8/2004 8:52:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
nr5a@rap.midco.net writes:
> Well I got the first stage done, the Rx/Tx Driver is built. I'll
> check it out tomorrow evening. I'm assuming if I put some kind of
> voltage on Vcc and ground the key line I'm going to see something
> happen at Tx line, correct? Guess I'll have to try and take a picture
> and post it as I build it huh?
>
> Jerry - NR5A - FP585
Has anyone written up stage-by-stage testing methodology? I'm aware of
several who are trying this for the first time, and others who have done it before
but really have no clue what they did. I think a bunch of us who are not
steeped in RF theory could learn from this. Jim provided voltage checks, examples
of sine waves, and receiver allignment info. He also exhibits extreme
patience in elmering when we ask. I'm just wondering, has anyone packaged this
stuff together so some of us who are adept at memorizing stuff for tests, but NOW
want to LEARN hands-on? It would be GREAT to have a step by step resource,
kinda like the stuff provided for the Elmer 101 SW40 rig. (Who has time for
this?!?!)
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odesa, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Harry,\Please send me email direct to "mycall"@comcast.net
(mycall=k3peg) and I'll send you a picture of the nibbler. I can't
reply to you from the 2n2_40 group and attach the file containing
the picture.
73, Larry
|
2927|2922|2004-04-09 18:07:13|Lee Mairs (SAG)|Re: I found a new and inexpensive source for a nibbling tool!|I bought two this morning at BestBuy.com. They even have free shipping on
it!
Thanks Larry
73 de Lee
KM4YY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harry Leung" <harrycwleung@yahoo.ca>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] I found a new and inexpensive source for a nibbling
tool!
> Hi Larry,
>
> Please send me your nibbling tool paicture. Thanks.
>
> with regards. 73 de Harry.
>
>
>
>
> --- Larry Przyborowski <k3peg@comcast.net> wrote:
> ---------------------------------
> Hi,
>
> If you're in need of or interested in buying a low
> cost, good performance
> nibbling tool read on.
> For me need has nothing to do with it; I simply wanted
> one. Hi, hi! ;-)
>
> I came across this item while shopping at Best Buy
> today. It's made by
> "Modware" and advertised as a PC case cutting tool.
> There are people out
> there who wish to jazz up their PC by adding internal
> lights and extra
> illuminated fans. This nibbler allows them to make the
> necessary case
> cutouts, add a plastic window and view those added
> goodies.
>
> If it works for them it works for me too, so naturally
> I bought one.
>
> Specs for this nibbler are:
> "Cuts steel up to 18 gauge (0.046"). 1.5 mm (1/16")
> copper, aluminum,
> plastic and other unhardened materials."
>
> Its finish is semi polished steel w/ rubber. It's
> about 8 inches long.
>
> I've already tried it on PC board, and it works just
> fine; just as good as
> my old trusty 30 yr old Adel nibbling tool.
>
> For the mere cost of $4.99 plus sales tax you too can
> own one of these
> "jewels".
>
> Manhattan builders and homebrewing chassis hackers out
> there alike take
> note, "Get ya one!"
>
> Best Buy's sku # is 6057063 description is "CWTOOL".
>
> How much you guys wanna bet they sell out ot these in
> the next few days??
>
> And, they (Best Buy) can't figure why?? Hi hi!
>
> BTW, If you want to see a picture of this nibbling
> tool email me, and I'll
> send you one.
>
> 73/72 de Larry - K3PEG
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> Terms of Service.
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Hi All.
It's been a while since I updated everybody on my progress. I've
been having a lot of fun building my 2N2/40 ... and by completing one
section per weekend, I have now progressed to the point where I have
a completed receiver.
I will have to try to make some time this week to hook up the power
and play with Alignment. If all goes well ... I should be off to the
transmitter side of things this weekend!
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
|
2929|2928|2004-04-11 13:28:00|Stever1k|Re: Well ... wish me luck!|Be sure to tell us how you are making out, My 2N240 works very nicely and I
put it to good use last evening on 40. Think I worked everyone that I
called in the contest. You will enjoy it more than any other radio that you
have..
Steve NU0P
----- Original Message -----
From: "va3jff" <va3jff@yahoo.ca>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2004 5:57 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Well ... wish me luck!
> Hi All.
>
> It's been a while since I updated everybody on my progress. I've
> been having a lot of fun building my 2N2/40 ... and by completing one
> section per weekend, I have now progressed to the point where I have
> a completed receiver.
>
> I will have to try to make some time this week to hook up the power
> and play with Alignment. If all goes well ... I should be off to the
> transmitter side of things this weekend!
>
> 73/72
> Jeff - VA3JFF
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Just after I made the inquiry about test-as-you-go procedures, I realized I
already HAD them! In the Winter 1998 QRPp article (and subsequent errata in
Spring 1999), Jim gives the theory for each stage and test procedures as you
build. I'm aware that Paul Harden NA5N, who did the illustrations, also
distributes this article as a booklet. It would be VERY helpful to pick up.
Really nice job on the article, Jim - thanks.
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2931|2931|2004-04-12 16:09:33|macstein@aol.com|Flying Pig Group Buy - I found yet another "oops"|I omitted R9 and R48 (two 390 ohm resistors)from the "FP Group Buy" parts lists and kits. They are being mailed to participants today.
I will upload the revised Parts List to my website. I have also revised the "Parts by Section" document to include descriptive notes to help identify each part.
Sorry for the inconvenience.
-MAC-
AF4PS
FP-51
Odessa, FL
|
2932|2932|2004-04-15 14:44:00|Ron Pfeiffer|Too good to be true|Well BestBuy just cancelled my order for the real-cheap nibblers. Had 2 on
order. First they send
me email that they are backordered. Then today they sent me an email that
notified me that
product is no longer available!!!
Oh well.....
Ron
_________________________________________________________________
Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN
Premium!
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/mlb&pgmarket=en-us/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/The same thing happened to me; however, somebody pointed out that Jensen
tools carried the original Adel nibbler - far superior to the RS and BestBuy
versions. I ordered an Adel nibbler and an extra punch for under $25 and it
was here two days later.
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Pfeiffer" <n1zsw@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 2:43 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Too good to be true
> Well BestBuy just cancelled my order for the real-cheap nibblers. Had 2
on
> order. First they send
> me email that they are backordered. Then today they sent me an email that
> notified me that
> product is no longer available!!!
>
> Oh well.....
>
> Ron
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN
> Premium!
>
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/mlb&pgmarket=en-us/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Larry,
Well after all that what was the bottom line cure for the IF oscillation ?
Thanks,
Jeff
k4zku@erols.comThanks everybody. All your good wishes have paid off ...
I now have a working receiver!!
Too bad I don't have a 40m antenna to play with it on ... I guess
that will be a job for tomorrow morning. Weatherman is calling for a
beautiful spring day, sunny and warm. Do antennas erected under such
conditions actually work? I usually put them up either in the rain
or snow ...
Two questions from my 2N2/40 receiver experience ...
1> My receiver seems to cover from 7.000MHz to 7.100MHz. It doesn't
seem too linear though. Is that just a matter of playing with the
size of the resistor across the pot?
2> The audio seems very quiet. I know that the band is completely
lifeless right now, but I would have expected a strong static than I
hear currently. With 2.5W into a dummy load from my FT817, and the
speak at max, it give just enough audio for my personal listening
pleasure. At 5W, I need to turn the volume down, and at 1W or 0.5W,
I would prefer to turn it up some more. Does this seem typical?
And now off to the Transmitter ...
Thanks again.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
|
2936|2932|2004-04-17 07:17:03|Ron Pfeiffer|Re: Too good to be true||
2937|2937|2004-04-17 14:25:19|Larry Przyborowski|Re: Digest Number 469||
2938|2935|2004-04-17 15:05:53|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: WOO HOO!!!!|At 08:59 AM 4/17/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Thanks everybody. All your good wishes have paid off ...
>
>I now have a working receiver!!
Congrats Jeff. You should be very proud. Many have started a
rig, but few have finished one, and have it working. We need
to work on them! :-)
>Too bad I don't have a 40m antenna to play with it on ... I guess
>that will be a job for tomorrow morning. Weatherman is calling for a
>beautiful spring day, sunny and warm. Do antennas erected under such
>conditions actually work?
Probably not, according to conventional wisdom. Only antennas put
up in truely nasty conditions play well.
> I usually put them up either in the rain
>or snow ...
Yup, that's it!
>Two questions from my 2N2/40 receiver experience ...
>
>1> My receiver seems to cover from 7.000MHz to 7.100MHz. It doesn't
>seem too linear though. Is that just a matter of playing with the
>size of the resistor across the pot?
Yes, to a great degree. The easiest way to find the correct value
for your pot is to set the pot at 5 turns, and select a resistor that
will put the VFO on 7.050 MHz. It ought to track fairly well then.
>2> The audio seems very quiet.
It should be, but......
> I know that the band is completely
>lifeless right now, but I would have expected a strong static than I
>hear currently.
What are you using for an antenna under those conditions?
> With 2.5W into a dummy load from my FT817, and the
>speak at max, it give just enough audio for my personal listening
>pleasure. At 5W, I need to turn the volume down, and at 1W or 0.5W,
>I would prefer to turn it up some more. Does this seem typical?
Don't know, as I've not done that kind of test, and there are a lot
of variables, including how much leakage there is from the coax connecting
the dummy load to the Tx, and how much receive antenna you are running.
It could be that the receiver isn't tuned up correctly, i.e. the LO
isn't set up right, and the incoming signals aren't centered in the
passband of the xtal filter. If you're off a couple of KHz in the LO
adjustment, the receiver is quite deaf.
Another possibility, is that the IF amplifier is oscillating, and
saturating the Product Detector, but I'd guess the prior situation,
as I've seen that done many times.
I'm assuming you have peaked all of the input stage trimmers, and
you have two peaks on each of them as you rotate them through
360 degrees. If only one peak, those stages are not operating
correctly. You did wire up the DBM correctly I hope? That stage
has given several builders fits getting it correct.
>And now off to the Transmitter ...
That's an easier set of stages to build and get running correctly.
72, GL with the Tx, and keep us posted,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Jeff,
Guess my first try at a reply to you didn't work. :-(
I realized through experimentation that the Rx LO circuit was way too
close (right next to) the IF amp. I rebuilt the Rx LO onto a small
separate board, and mounted it on the opposite side of the 2n2_40+
board. That fixed the IF amp "oscillation" problem. The small level
(abt 200 mV p-p) of Rx LO signal, now seen at the IF amp's Q7
collector is comparible to what Jim sees on his 2n2_40 rig. In my
new "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ layout I have placed the product
detector circuit close to the IF amp and the Rx LO farther away. That
should fix the unwanted signal coupling. We'll see...
BTW, I've almost completed the modular layouts for the 2n2_40+ rig.
I'll be uploading it to the group soon.
73, Larry
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Noel" wrote:
> Larry,
>
> Well after all that what was the bottom line cure for the IF
oscillation ?
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff
>
> k4zku@e...
Hi gang,
Jameco sells an inexpensive nibbling tool, p/n HT204, ($7.95 ea) and
a replacement bit, p/n HT204B,($4.49 ea).
The nibbler appears to be the same design as the one I bought from
BestBuy recently.
73, Larry
|
2941|2934|2004-04-19 12:24:12|Jeff Noel|Re: oscillation|Larry,
Thanks for the reply and the info.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
2942|2942|2004-04-19 15:52:51|Ron Pfeiffer|modular layout||
2943|2943|2004-04-20 02:14:33|Robert Conley|2N2-40 Booklet|I would like to aquire the booklet that is mentioned as an
illistrated test-as-you-go on the 2N2-40...ANYONE "RC" KC5WA
|
2944|2943|2004-04-20 10:05:08|Ron White|Re: 2N2-40 Booklet|Robert,
I'd like to get one too. I have tried several forms of e-mail addresses for Paul Harden's, but none have worked. I sent him an letter a week or so ago and haven't heard back.
He's the one who used to have these booklets.
If you hear of a way to get one please let me know.
Tnx,
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Conley
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 1:14 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2-40 Booklet
I would like to aquire the booklet that is mentioned as an
illistrated test-as-you-go on the 2N2-40...ANYONE "RC" KC5WA
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm posting here in case I missed a participant's email.
FP 2n2-40+ builders,
I found yet 2 more omissions from your kits: R20 (100k) and C72 (.01uF). I am mailing them today.
I don't seem to goof in counting and bagging, where I goof is leaving parts off the list completely! Kenyon was good enough to send me some wonderful excel sheets with all of this done, but alas, I couldn't load them on my machine. Thus, the mistakes are all mine! SO -You may want to double check the schematics and parts list.
To avoid confusion (for example, try to reconcile the parts list and updated 020102 schematics in the same directory on the Yahoo 2n2 site, is it just me?!), I have the corrected lists and schematics from which I derived the lists now on my website.
http://www.qsl.net/af4ps I think the best way to double check is to use the "Parts by Section list" and go over the schematics... then use that same list to inventory your bags-o-parts. Please let me know if you find problems.
Thanks for your patience.
-MAC-
AF4PS
FP-51
Odessa, FL
All I can say Mac, is I feel your pain. :)
It's A LOT of work doing group buys, bagging stuff up, dealing with checks,
packaging, etc...
It's great to see another wave of 2n2/40+'s getting built here again. I'm
hoping to get some new wire up in the air this weekend and get back on the
air. Been a while.
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner
john@wagner-usa.net >From: macstein@aol.com
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2n2-40] Flying Pigs 2n2 Group Buy/Build Update
>Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 13:23:39 -0400
>
>I'm posting here in case I missed a participant's email.
>
>FP 2n2-40+ builders,
>
>I found yet 2 more omissions from your kits: R20 (100k) and C72 (.01uF). I
>am mailing them today.
>
>I don't seem to goof in counting and bagging, where I goof is leaving
>parts off the list completely! Kenyon was good enough to send me some
>wonderful excel sheets with all of this done, but alas, I couldn't load
>them on my machine. Thus, the mistakes are all mine! SO -You may want to
>double check the schematics and parts list.
>
>To avoid confusion (for example, try to reconcile the parts list and
>updated 020102 schematics in the same directory on the Yahoo 2n2 site, is
>it just me?!), I have the corrected lists and schematics from which I
>derived the lists now on my website. http://www.qsl.net/af4ps
>I think the best way to double check is to use the "Parts by Section list"
>and go over the schematics... then use that same list to inventory your
>bags-o-parts. Please let me know if you find problems.
>
>Thanks for your patience.
>
>-MAC-
>AF4PS
>FP-51
>Odessa, FL
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page � FREE
download!
http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/It's no wonder you are having all these problems. It is way to hot for pigs
in Florida!
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: <macstein@aol.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 1:23 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Flying Pigs 2n2 Group Buy/Build Update
> I'm posting here in case I missed a participant's email.
>
> FP 2n2-40+ builders,
>
> I found yet 2 more omissions from your kits: R20 (100k) and C72 (.01uF).
I am mailing them today.
>
> I don't seem to goof in counting and bagging, where I goof is leaving
parts off the list completely! Kenyon was good enough to send me some
wonderful excel sheets with all of this done, but alas, I couldn't load them
on my machine. Thus, the mistakes are all mine! SO -You may want to double
check the schematics and parts list.
>
> To avoid confusion (for example, try to reconcile the parts list and
updated 020102 schematics in the same directory on the Yahoo 2n2 site, is it
just me?!), I have the corrected lists and schematics from which I derived
the lists now on my website. http://www.qsl.net/af4ps
> I think the best way to double check is to use the "Parts by Section list"
and go over the schematics... then use that same list to inventory your
bags-o-parts. Please let me know if you find problems.
>
> Thanks for your patience.
>
> -MAC-
> AF4PS
> FP-51
> Odessa, FL
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Hi gang,
As promised, I'm uploading my EM modular layouts for Jim Kortge's
2n2_40+ xvcr. I've checked the layout(s) against their schematics,
but would appreciate if others would do the same and report their
findings.
The layout is an Adobe pdf file,"EM_2n2_40+_modular_Rev1.pdf". You
can print it out for yourself, and you can magnify the "livin'
circuitry" out of it with the Adobe Acrobot Reader. When magnified,
the templates make wonderful building aids! 8-)
Let me know what you think, okay?
A companion file will be uploded soon. ;-)
72 de Larry - K3PEG
|
2949|2949|2004-04-23 20:38:13|J. Wagner|CQ?||
2950|2948|2004-04-23 21:53:24|Larry Przyborowski|Re: "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ modular layout(s)|Hi gang,
I found an error on the EM 2n2_layout. The size of board #9 should
say 1.7 by 4.0 inches. I'll fix that in Rev 2.
72 de Larry - K3PEG
|
2951|2948|2004-04-23 22:25:44|Larry Przyborowski|Re: "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ modular layout(s)|Hi gang,
I just realized that the pdf file convertor that I used did not
render some of the original file's details and color coding
properly. I'll fix that and upload Rev_2 soon.
72, Larry
|
2952|2948|2004-04-23 23:22:25|Jim Crooke|Re: "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ modular layout(s)|Larry, your layout is a work of art by itself! I printed it out at work
this morning and have been contemplating how poor my workmanship is compared
to some of you masters. When I get done with mine, I will have to put it in
a case and lock the cover so no one can peek! Or I may lay a copy of the
layout on top of my board and pretend it looks like that :-)
Thanks for the work.
73 es oo's de Jim KJ0C
Healer of Brachycephalics and other fine looking creatures
in Springfield, MO semi-official veterinarian of the Flying Pig QRP Club
FP # -108 SOC #37 PITA #2
|
2953|2948|2004-04-24 00:18:47|Larry Przyborowski|Re: "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ modular layout(s)|Hi Jim,
Thanks for the kind comments. ;-).
I've repaired the errors I found on the Rev_1 file and have created
a Rev_2 file with the fixes. It looks even better now. I first
generated pdf file didn't render certain objects correctly, and
balked at converting any text that wasn't horizontal, so I made
adjustments to compensate.
I can adapt; it just takes time.
BTW, I like your "Healing" signature. HI HI!
As for the Manhattan stuff... making the project work is far more
work than making it pretty! And, you can quote me on that!
73 de Larry - K3PEG ... Glen Burnie, MD
|
2954|2954|2004-04-24 03:59:59|springer142003|Finding files in this group|I am looking for K3PEG's modular revision 2 of the 2n2/40, but can't
for the life of me find it.
Can some one tell me what to do after I find the post from him
telling that the file has been uploaded?
Thank you,
Ron
|
2955|2954|2004-04-24 09:24:41|J. Wagner|Re: Finding files in this group|I only found Rev 1 of the PDF file he uploaded in the Files section. I don't
believe he's uploaded v2.
I have to say that version 1 looks great, wow!
Speaking of 2n2-40's, I was banging the CQ bell for quite some time last
night. I finally worked KC2LFI down in NY. I forgot how signals jump out of
this radio so much.
I plan to get on the air again tonight, be great to work more 2n2/40's.
73,
John, N1QO
--
John Wagner
john@wagner-usa.net >From: "springer142003" <rwhite@netins.net>
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2n2-40] Finding files in this group
>Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 07:59:22 -0000
>
>I am looking for K3PEG's modular revision 2 of the 2n2/40, but can't
>for the life of me find it.
>Can some one tell me what to do after I find the post from him
>telling that the file has been uploaded?
>Thank you,
>Ron
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar � get it now!
http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/Hi gang,
I have uploaded Rev_2 of my EM_2n2_40+ modular layout.
Some background info:
I was intrigued by the work that Craig, AA0ZZ, did making layouts
for Manhattan construction using MS PowerPoint (his work is also in
the files area), and I thought PowerPoint was only for slide
presentations. I've been messing with this technique since January,
2002. Many changes have evolved as I learned what could be done with
PowerPoint.
My goal was to do what Craig did, develop a "roadmap" for others to
follow. If you compare Craig's original layout with mine you'll see
that I've borrowed from his in places. I've enhanced the layout
further by using color-coding and also doing a companion modular
layout. I came up with the idea of printing the layout onto a
stickybacked label, i,e, making a "live" template that's applied to
the copper-clad board. It makes duplication rather easy, and it
provides a component map with identification when troubleshooting is
needed. All one needs to do is refer to the schematic or parts list
for component values. Using the pdf format is an added bonus in that
you can magnify the the layout on a video screen and use it to build
too. ;-)
72 de Larry - K3PEG ... Glen Burnie, MD
P.S. More to follow...soon...
|
2957|2948|2004-04-24 11:22:10|Larry Przyborowski|Re: "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ modular layout(s)|Hi gang,
I just uploaded my Components Coding Info file for the EM_2n2_40+
layouts. Take a look.
72, Larry
|
2958|2948|2004-04-24 12:58:24|J. Wagner|Re: "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ modular layout(s)|Hey Larry,
I'm really impressed with the work you did here. I've built two 2n2/40's,
and your layout work almost, just almost, makes me want to build another!
Really nice job on the document, I'm sure it will help other builders in the
future.
73,
John, N1QO
>Hi gang,
>
>I have uploaded Rev_2 of my EM_2n2_40+ modular layout.
>...
>Using the pdf format is an added bonus in that
>you can magnify the the layout on a video screen and use it to build
>too. ;-)
>
>72 de Larry - K3PEG ... Glen Burnie, MD
>
>P.S. More to follow...soon...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee�
Security.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963Hello Everybody!
I have a question ... hopefully if I am correct in my assumptions,
your answers will guide me away from a temporary set-back.
So far everything has gone great! I am building the 2N2/40 as
described in QRPp ... that's right a Plain Jane 2N2/40. Everything
has gone as expected and as described in Jim's article.
I have built Sequence #7 - TX Local Oscillator, Mixer & Amplifier ...
but I do not have a rectifier diode around to run the test
procedure. (Alas, I am a new builder and do not have a deep junque
box.)
My question(s) then ...
1> What are equivalent to the 1N4004 that the Canadian Radio Shack's
might carry, or I might be able to scrounge up at say a TV repair
shop?
2> If I wait until Sequence #8 - Transmit RF Driver, Power Amplifier
and Output Filter are built before testing #7 ... does that create a
great deal of headache's for me? Can I actually put the rig into
transmit to a dummy load at that point and perform the Sequence #7
test?
Thanks again.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
(Vacation starts in just 13 days ... Dayton must be getting close!)
|
2960|2959|2004-04-28 09:31:52|Rev. Mac Steinmeyer|Re: Testing the Transmitter|I may have some of the things you need! What might you need besides the 1n4004? Email me here:
macnohere@fpqrp.com and send me your address.
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: va3jff
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2004 8:55 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Testing the Transmitter
Hello Everybody!
I have a question ... hopefully if I am correct in my assumptions,
your answers will guide me away from a temporary set-back.
So far everything has gone great! I am building the 2N2/40 as
described in QRPp ... that's right a Plain Jane 2N2/40. Everything
has gone as expected and as described in Jim's article.
I have built Sequence #7 - TX Local Oscillator, Mixer & Amplifier ...
but I do not have a rectifier diode around to run the test
procedure. (Alas, I am a new builder and do not have a deep junque
box.)
My question(s) then ...
1> What are equivalent to the 1N4004 that the Canadian Radio Shack's
might carry, or I might be able to scrounge up at say a TV repair
shop?
2> If I wait until Sequence #8 - Transmit RF Driver, Power Amplifier
and Output Filter are built before testing #7 ... does that create a
great deal of headache's for me? Can I actually put the rig into
transmit to a dummy load at that point and perform the Sequence #7
test?
Thanks again.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
(Vacation starts in just 13 days ... Dayton must be getting close!)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 12:55 PM 4/28/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello Everybody!
>
>I have a question ... hopefully if I am correct in my assumptions,
>your answers will guide me away from a temporary set-back.
>
>So far everything has gone great! I am building the 2N2/40 as
>described in QRPp ... that's right a Plain Jane 2N2/40. Everything
>has gone as expected and as described in Jim's article.
>
>I have built Sequence #7 - TX Local Oscillator, Mixer & Amplifier ...
>but I do not have a rectifier diode around to run the test
>procedure. (Alas, I am a new builder and do not have a deep junque
>box.)
>
>My question(s) then ...
>
>1> What are equivalent to the 1N4004 that the Canadian Radio Shack's
>might carry, or I might be able to scrounge up at say a TV repair
>shop?
Any power diode will work fine. If Radio Shack carries any of
the 1N4XXX variety, or equivalent, that's what you want. You
can do the sequence 7 test without the diode too, but that ensures
you don't reverse power the stage.
>2> If I wait until Sequence #8 - Transmit RF Driver, Power Amplifier
>and Output Filter are built before testing #7 ... does that create a
>great deal of headache's for me?
No really.
> Can I actually put the rig into
>transmit to a dummy load at that point and perform the Sequence #7
>test?
Yes also.
>Thanks again.
>73/72
> Jeff - VA3JFF
> (Vacation starts in just 13 days ... Dayton must be getting close!)
Are you going to bring your rig and show it off to all of use who
will be there? I, for one, would like to see it! :-)
72 and thanks for the update.
Jim, K8IQY
Hello to the group,
I must be one of the last hams on the planet to discover the 2n2, but
that aside --- I'm gathering parts for the project. Have been
building QRPp rigs in Altoid tins, but the 2n2 caught my eye and the
fever set in.
Thanks to K3PEG for steering me to this group and for the help with
his excellent layout sheets for the rig. And thanks to AF4PS for his
assistance also.
Before I begin the ordering process I thought I might ask if there is
anyone out there who may have gathered parts and for one reason or
another decided not to build. A partially assembled rig that could
be "mined" might work also. I am starting from scratch and will
begin fabricating the individual boards this week. It looks like
MOUSER, HOSFELT and DANS will be the new part routes to go but if
anyone has other suggestions they will be appreciated.
And to the authors of the previous 2k+ messages in the archives ----
I've got my reading assignment for the next xx months/weeks.
73 to all es tnx fer the read.
W4MIL
Chuck
|
2963|2959|2004-04-28 09:53:18|va3jff|Re: Testing the Transmitter|Hi Jim and 2N2'ers everywhere.
I am just going out this morning to check out a new electronics
supply store a couple cities over ... the nice lady at Radio Shack
suggested that they carry EVERYTHING that she does not ... sounds
interesting.
My back of mind goal ... although never communicated before now ...
has been to have my 2N2/40 built for Dayton. I even made up a
schedule of what available time I had between my start of build date
and my departure for Dayton. Right now I am 1 week ahead of schedule
(but I only get 2 nights a week to work on the radio) and my schedule
at work just changed so I will be working a weekend that I would have
originally been off. Those couple days I got ahead will certainly
come in handy now and as long as things continue to go as hoped ...
the rig will be up and running for Dayton 2004!
I look forward to meeting you again Jim. It was your 2N2/30 at
Atlanticon that pushed me to actually start building. I have only
been to Dayton once before, and that was 1998 - there was a certain
rig there that caught my eye too ...
I'll be easy to spot at FDIM ... I'll be the one with the 7 month old
baby in tow. If you see me flag me down, and I'll be sure to show
off all the fun I've had over the past couple months.
Thanks again for all the help.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 12:55 PM 4/28/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Hello Everybody!
> >
> >I have a question ... hopefully if I am correct in my assumptions,
> >your answers will guide me away from a temporary set-back.
> >
> >So far everything has gone great! I am building the 2N2/40 as
> >described in QRPp ... that's right a Plain Jane 2N2/40. Everything
> >has gone as expected and as described in Jim's article.
> >
> >I have built Sequence #7 - TX Local Oscillator, Mixer &
Amplifier ...
> >but I do not have a rectifier diode around to run the test
> >procedure. (Alas, I am a new builder and do not have a deep junque
> >box.)
> >
> >My question(s) then ...
> >
> >1> What are equivalent to the 1N4004 that the Canadian Radio
Shack's
> >might carry, or I might be able to scrounge up at say a TV repair
> >shop?
>
> Any power diode will work fine. If Radio Shack carries any of
> the 1N4XXX variety, or equivalent, that's what you want. You
> can do the sequence 7 test without the diode too, but that ensures
> you don't reverse power the stage.
>
>
> >2> If I wait until Sequence #8 - Transmit RF Driver, Power
Amplifier
> >and Output Filter are built before testing #7 ... does that create
a
> >great deal of headache's for me?
>
> No really.
>
> > Can I actually put the rig into
> >transmit to a dummy load at that point and perform the Sequence #7
> >test?
>
> Yes also.
>
>
> >Thanks again.
> >73/72
> > Jeff - VA3JFF
> > (Vacation starts in just 13 days ... Dayton must be getting
close!)
>
> Are you going to bring your rig and show it off to all of use who
> will be there? I, for one, would like to see it! :-)
>
> 72 and thanks for the update.
>
> Jim, K8IQY
I gotta plug Kits and Parts for the toroids, some of the varactors and diodes, and small diameter coax. Diz W8DIZ is a good friend and Flying Pig#1. Check here:
http://partsandkits.com/ -MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: altoidham
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2004 9:51 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] First time 2n2 builder
Hello to the group,
I must be one of the last hams on the planet to discover the 2n2, but
that aside --- I'm gathering parts for the project. Have been
building QRPp rigs in Altoid tins, but the 2n2 caught my eye and the
fever set in.
Thanks to K3PEG for steering me to this group and for the help with
his excellent layout sheets for the rig. And thanks to AF4PS for his
assistance also.
Before I begin the ordering process I thought I might ask if there is
anyone out there who may have gathered parts and for one reason or
another decided not to build. A partially assembled rig that could
be "mined" might work also. I am starting from scratch and will
begin fabricating the individual boards this week. It looks like
MOUSER, HOSFELT and DANS will be the new part routes to go but if
anyone has other suggestions they will be appreciated.
And to the authors of the previous 2k+ messages in the archives ----
I've got my reading assignment for the next xx months/weeks.
73 to all es tnx fer the read.
W4MIL
Chuck
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Greetings all,
Thanks AF4PS, Mac, fer the input on Diz, W8DIZ. Checked his website
and indeed he has some items that will fit the bill.
73 de W4MIL
Chuck
|
2966|2966|2004-04-28 19:21:13|altoidham|Slight adjustment to K3PEG's uploads.|Hi agn to all
While doing the piece by piece inventory of parts and making
comparisons with schematics and the excellent graphics by K3PEG,
Larry, I found only one slight omission. Q-14 in the audio pre-amp
on board #9 is missing its label. That's not a complaint, but its
the only omission I saw when going thru the board for my own
understanding. I find these graphics to be invaluable as I jump into
the 2n2 project. Nice work, Larry.
Thanks all for the BW.
73 de W4MIL
Chuck
|
2967|2966|2004-04-28 22:01:11|Larry Przyborowski|Re: Slight adjustment to K3PEG's uploads.|Hello Chuck,
Welcome to the group! Glad to "see" you here.
Thanks very much for checking my EM Modular layout and finding the
Q14 label omission. I'll write that "fix" into the Rev_3 release.
If you want to build the rig on a single 5x7" piece of copper clad
board there's another layout I did just for that. You'll find the
ile in the "Files" section here. The filename is
"EM_2n2_40+_Layout_V1.pdf" . Bet you've already found it though. ;-)
Thanks for your comments on the EM layout!
73, Larry - Glen Burnie, MD
> "altoidham" wrote:
> Hi agn to all
>
>
> While doing the piece by piece inventory of parts and making
> comparisons with schematics and the excellent graphics by K3PEG,
> Larry, I found only one slight omission. Q-14 in the audio pre-
amp
> on board #9 is missing its label. That's not a complaint, but its
> the only omission I saw when going thru the board for my own
> understanding. I find these graphics to be invaluable as I jump
into
> the 2n2 project. Nice work, Larry.
>
> Thanks all for the BW.
>
> 73 de W4MIL
> Chuck
Gang,
I just got an email from Paul Harden, NA5N concerning the availability
of the 2N2/40 reprints that many of you have been asking about. Paul
has been down in Mexico for most of the past 3 months, so hasn't been
able to answer emails, nor attend to the orders that have come in. That
should all be changing very soon. The assignment in Mexico is done,
and he is back home and working at the VLA/B array again.
The original for the addendum sheet that was added to correct some mistakes
had to be redone, as the original turned up missing. Paul has that redrawn,
and is running copies to include with the reprint.
I'd suggest you email Paul and find out where to send the money, as
I don't have the address where he is doing his printing business. His
email address is na5n"at"zianet.net. Replace the "at" with the @
symbol. That keeps snoopy computers from harvesting his email address
from this email.
Those that have ordered should be receiving your reprints very soon.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
2969|2969|2004-04-29 21:22:13|Robert Conley|toroids|I need some toroids for my 2N2-40 project and I do not wish to
purchase 25 when I only need a couple. If you have extras you wish to
sell my needs are small:
1 ea T50-7 white
6 ea T37-2 red
9 ea FT37-43
1 ea Ft37-61
Tnx in advance for your help "rc" kc5wa
|
2970|2969|2004-04-29 21:57:09|Jerry Ford|Re: toroids|Hi RC
I can supply the T37-2 and the FT37-43 if no one steps up to help
you. I don't have the other two.
Did you see all the posts on Mag wire on QRP-L ???
Lots of suggestions on where to find it in different colors.
later gator
oo Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Conley" <kc5wa@bayou.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 8:21 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] toroids
> I need some toroids for my 2N2-40 project and I do not wish to
> purchase 25 when I only need a couple. If you have extras you wish
to
> sell my needs are small:
> 1 ea T50-7 white
> 6 ea T37-2 red
> 9 ea FT37-43
> 1 ea Ft37-61
> Tnx in advance for your help "rc" kc5wa
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for your HP, Epson, Canon or
Lexmark
> Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US &
Canada.
> http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/mOAaAA/3exGAA/qnsNAA/ELTolB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
-~->
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
GE Jerry
http://www.cwsbytemark.com/prices/tapeswires.php here's the stuff but didn't see color any where
NETX #43, QRPp-I #700
Proud owner of MP+ #21
oo's FP#567
73/72/71 de kc5wa "rc"
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Ford
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] toroids
Hi RC
I can supply the T37-2 and the FT37-43 if no one steps up to help
you. I don't have the other two.
Did you see all the posts on Mag wire on QRP-L ???
Lots of suggestions on where to find it in different colors.
later gator
oo Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Conley" <kc5wa@bayou.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 8:21 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] toroids
> I need some toroids for my 2N2-40 project and I do not wish to
> purchase 25 when I only need a couple. If you have extras you wish
to
> sell my needs are small:
> 1 ea T50-7 white
> 6 ea T37-2 red
> 9 ea FT37-43
> 1 ea Ft37-61
> Tnx in advance for your help "rc" kc5wa
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for your HP, Epson, Canon or
Lexmark
> Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US &
Canada.
> http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/mOAaAA/3exGAA/qnsNAA/ELTolB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
-~->
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I only saw the one on cws bytemark
NETX #43, QRPp-I #700
Proud owner of MP+ #21
oo's FP#567
73/72/71 de kc5wa "rc"
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Ford
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] toroids
Hi RC
I can supply the T37-2 and the FT37-43 if no one steps up to help
you. I don't have the other two.
Did you see all the posts on Mag wire on QRP-L ???
Lots of suggestions on where to find it in different colors.
later gator
oo Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Conley" <kc5wa@bayou.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 8:21 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] toroids
> I need some toroids for my 2N2-40 project and I do not wish to
> purchase 25 when I only need a couple. If you have extras you wish
to
> sell my needs are small:
> 1 ea T50-7 white
> 6 ea T37-2 red
> 9 ea FT37-43
> 1 ea Ft37-61
> Tnx in advance for your help "rc" kc5wa
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
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> --------------------------------------------------------------------
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> Yahoo! Groups Links
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I may have a deal working on the wire. I'll let you know
sometime tomorrow when I get an answer on a query.
oo Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert W Conley" <kc5wa@bayou.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] toroids
> I only saw the one on cws bytemark
>
> NETX #43, QRPp-I #700
> Proud owner of MP+ #21
> oo's FP#567
> 73/72/71 de kc5wa "rc"
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jerry Ford
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 8:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] toroids
>
>
> Hi RC
>
> I can supply the T37-2 and the FT37-43 if no one steps up to
help
> you. I don't have the other two.
>
> Did you see all the posts on Mag wire on QRP-L ???
>
> Lots of suggestions on where to find it in different colors.
>
> later gator
>
> oo Jerry
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Conley" <kc5wa@bayou.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 8:21 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] toroids
>
>
> > I need some toroids for my 2N2-40 project and I do not wish to
> > purchase 25 when I only need a couple. If you have extras you
wish
> to
> > sell my needs are small:
> > 1 ea T50-7 white
> > 6 ea T37-2 red
> > 9 ea FT37-43
> > 1 ea Ft37-61
> > Tnx in advance for your help "rc" kc5wa
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
> Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> > Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for your HP, Epson, Canon or
> Lexmark
> > Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US
&
> Canada.
> > http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511
> > http://us.click.yahoo.com/mOAaAA/3exGAA/qnsNAA/ELTolB/TM
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> -~->
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
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Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for your HP, Epson, Canon or
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> Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US &
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> http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511
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> --------------------------------------------------------------------
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Hey good deal...
Also to be noted 24-30awg pvc/mylar cover wire wrap wire can be used with slight variance in the inductance ( page 9 of the 1998 winter issue of QRPp) ...oo 'rc'
NETX #43, QRPp-I #700
Proud owner of MP+ #21
oo's FP#567
73/72/71 de kc5wa "rc"
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Ford
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 11:11 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] toroids
I may have a deal working on the wire. I'll let you know
sometime tomorrow when I get an answer on a query.
oo Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert W Conley" <kc5wa@bayou.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] toroids
> I only saw the one on cws bytemark
>
> NETX #43, QRPp-I #700
> Proud owner of MP+ #21
> oo's FP#567
> 73/72/71 de kc5wa "rc"
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jerry Ford
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 8:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] toroids
>
>
> Hi RC
>
> I can supply the T37-2 and the FT37-43 if no one steps up to
help
> you. I don't have the other two.
>
> Did you see all the posts on Mag wire on QRP-L ???
>
> Lots of suggestions on where to find it in different colors.
>
> later gator
>
> oo Jerry
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Conley" <kc5wa@bayou.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 8:21 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] toroids
>
>
> > I need some toroids for my 2N2-40 project and I do not wish to
> > purchase 25 when I only need a couple. If you have extras you
wish
> to
> > sell my needs are small:
> > 1 ea T50-7 white
> > 6 ea T37-2 red
> > 9 ea FT37-43
> > 1 ea Ft37-61
> > Tnx in advance for your help "rc" kc5wa
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
> Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> > Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for your HP, Epson, Canon or
> Lexmark
> > Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US
&
> Canada.
> > http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511
> > http://us.click.yahoo.com/mOAaAA/3exGAA/qnsNAA/ELTolB/TM
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> -~->
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for your HP, Epson, Canon or
Lexmark
> Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US &
Canada.
> http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/mOAaAA/3exGAA/qnsNAA/ELTolB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
-~->
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
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c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
WELL We have a donation of wire on it's way today. 3
colors of 26 AWG !!
I'll get 10feet of each off to you as soon as I get it. Did
you get any other response to your query for toroids?? If not,
I'll include the T37-2's and the FT37-43's when I send the wire.
Catch ya later partner
oo Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert W Conley" <kc5wa@bayou.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2004 12:12 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] toroids
> Hey good deal...
> Also to be noted 24-30awg pvc/mylar cover wire wrap wire can be used
with slight variance in the inductance ( page 9 of the 1998 winter
issue of QRPp) ...oo 'rc'
>
> NETX #43, QRPp-I #700
> Proud owner of MP+ #21
> oo's FP#567
> 73/72/71 de kc5wa "rc"
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jerry Ford
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 11:11 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] toroids
>
>
> I may have a deal working on the wire. I'll let you know
> sometime tomorrow when I get an answer on a query.
>
> oo Jerry
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert W Conley" <kc5wa@bayou.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 9:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] toroids
>
>
> > I only saw the one on cws bytemark
> >
> > NETX #43, QRPp-I #700
> > Proud owner of MP+ #21
> > oo's FP#567
> > 73/72/71 de kc5wa "rc"
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jerry Ford
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 8:15 PM
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] toroids
> >
> >
> > Hi RC
> >
> > I can supply the T37-2 and the FT37-43 if no one steps up
to
> help
> > you. I don't have the other two.
> >
> > Did you see all the posts on Mag wire on QRP-L ???
> >
> > Lots of suggestions on where to find it in different colors.
> >
> > later gator
> >
> > oo Jerry
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Robert Conley" <kc5wa@bayou.com>
> > To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 8:21 PM
> > Subject: [2n2-40] toroids
> >
> >
> > > I need some toroids for my 2N2-40 project and I do not wish
to
> > > purchase 25 when I only need a couple. If you have extras
you
> wish
> > to
> > > sell my needs are small:
> > > 1 ea T50-7 white
> > > 6 ea T37-2 red
> > > 9 ea FT37-43
> > > 1 ea Ft37-61
> > > Tnx in advance for your help "rc" kc5wa
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
> > Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> > > Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for your HP, Epson, Canon
or
> > Lexmark
> > > Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to
the US
> &
> > Canada.
> > > http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511
> > > http://us.click.yahoo.com/mOAaAA/3exGAA/qnsNAA/ELTolB/TM
> >
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
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> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
> >
> > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
of
> Service.
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
> Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> > Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for your HP, Epson, Canon or
> Lexmark
> > Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US
&
> Canada.
> > http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511
> > http://us.click.yahoo.com/mOAaAA/3exGAA/qnsNAA/ELTolB/TM
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
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>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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Hi All.
Thanks for the info Jim about testing the first part of the
transmitter strip. I hooked it all up tonight, and it seems to be
working as expected!
I'm just starting the PA final and I've already secured a case and
connectors. This weekend I should progress to working rig status!!!
Just some "beautification" and minor additions to make and I'll be
ready to declare another completed 2N2/40.
Thanks again.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
|
2977|2976|2004-05-01 04:19:39|Robert W Conley|Re: Nearly Complete ...|GM Jeff
You're an inspiration to us all. Just getting started on my 2N2-40
72 es oo RC, kc5wa
----- Original Message -----
From: va3jff
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2004 2:38 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Nearly Complete ...
Hi All.
Thanks for the info Jim about testing the first part of the
transmitter strip. I hooked it all up tonight, and it seems to be
working as expected!
I'm just starting the PA final and I've already secured a case and
connectors. This weekend I should progress to working rig status!!!
Just some "beautification" and minor additions to make and I'll be
ready to declare another completed 2N2/40.
Thanks again.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
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c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RC, I waited a long time to begin building my 2N2/40 ... but once I
got started it became quite clear how well designed both the radio
itself, and the instructions that were published in QRPp were. Jim's
design and written descriptions of the individual modules allow you
to learn what is happening within the modules, and along with Paul
NA5N's diagrams create a very easy to follow building/testing guide.
Although I have built a few kits before, I am still very new to
manhatten style building or scratch building of any kind. What has
impressed me most about the building of my 2N2/40 is how easily it
went together by following the instructions provided.
THANKS JIM AND PAUL! Without their skills/knowledge and ability, it
certainly would not have been possible for me.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Robert W Conley" wrote:
> GM Jeff
> You're an inspiration to us all. Just getting started on my 2N2-40
> 72 es oo RC, kc5wa
Jeff
When you finish how about uploading a picture so we all can can see it
72 es oo RC
----- Original Message -----
From: va3jff
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2004 11:43 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Nearly Complete ...
RC, I waited a long time to begin building my 2N2/40 ... but once I
got started it became quite clear how well designed both the radio
itself, and the instructions that were published in QRPp were. Jim's
design and written descriptions of the individual modules allow you
to learn what is happening within the modules, and along with Paul
NA5N's diagrams create a very easy to follow building/testing guide.
Although I have built a few kits before, I am still very new to
manhatten style building or scratch building of any kind. What has
impressed me most about the building of my 2N2/40 is how easily it
went together by following the instructions provided.
THANKS JIM AND PAUL! Without their skills/knowledge and ability, it
certainly would not have been possible for me.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Robert W Conley" wrote:
> GM Jeff
> You're an inspiration to us all. Just getting started on my 2N2-40
> 72 es oo RC, kc5wa
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 07:38 AM 5/1/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi All.
>
>Thanks for the info Jim about testing the first part of the
>transmitter strip. I hooked it all up tonight, and it seems to be
>working as expected!
>
>I'm just starting the PA final and I've already secured a case and
>connectors. This weekend I should progress to working rig status!!!
>Just some "beautification" and minor additions to make and I'll be
>ready to declare another completed 2N2/40.
>
>Thanks again.
>73/72
> Jeff - VA3JFF
Sound great Jeff. I'll be around this weekend if you want to
try it out on the air. That would be loads of fun!!
72 and many thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:43 PM 5/1/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>RC, I waited a long time to begin building my 2N2/40 ... but once I
>got started it became quite clear how well designed both the radio
>itself, and the instructions that were published in QRPp were. Jim's
>design and written descriptions of the individual modules allow you
>to learn what is happening within the modules, and along with Paul
>NA5N's diagrams create a very easy to follow building/testing guide.
>
>Although I have built a few kits before, I am still very new to
>manhatten style building or scratch building of any kind. What has
>impressed me most about the building of my 2N2/40 is how easily it
>went together by following the instructions provided.
>
>THANKS JIM AND PAUL! Without their skills/knowledge and ability, it
>certainly would not have been possible for me.
>
>73/72
> Jeff - VA3JFF
Thanks for the nice comments on the article Jeff. A 2N2/20 article
is sorta in the planning stages. Stay tuned!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hello Everybody.
I now have a fully wired 2N2/40! I spent my little bit of Sunday
free time on the case and case art ... so I haven't got anything new
or exciting to really report.
I did post a photo in the photo section for the group. Just a single
shot of the board completely populated. It's hard to get good light
in the middle of the night for a photograph. I'll see if I can get a
better one up later.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
|
2983|2983|2004-05-03 13:02:07|n1zsw|Island cutter map|Larry, K3peg has done a faboulus job of layout. Is it possible with
PowerPoint to just print a "plane" that has only the "circles" or
"pads"? That way the printout could be used for either a gluing
guide for the manhatten pads or in my case a drilling guide for
cutting the circles into the PC board?
Thanks in advance.
Ron
|
2984|2983|2004-05-03 20:40:29|Larry Przyborowski|Re: Island cutter map|Hi Ron,
Thanks for your comment on my layout.
My layout can be used as is for what you've mentioned. Print it out
on plain paper, and mark the center of the pad positions by piercing
them with a pin. Then lay the paper template on the copper-clad
board, and use a "Sharpie" black ink marker to mark the copper-clad
through the holes.
If you want a drilling guide for a pad cutter, attaching the paper
template to the copper-clad board with spray-mount adhesive may
work. You may be able to cut through both paper and copper, but I've
never tried this approach as I don't have an island pad cutter.
73, Larry - K3PEG
> Is it possible with PowerPoint to just print a "plane" that has
only the "circles" or "pads"? That way the printout could be used
for either a gluing guide for the manhatten pads or in my case a
drilling guide for cutting the circles into the PC board?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Ron
Hi Larry:
I'm new to the group and just putting together what I need to start a
2N2-40.
I saw Ron's post and now your reply. Is there a URL where I might
find
your layout ?? Sounds like it could come in very handy.
Thanks a bunch:
72 Jerry N0JRN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Przyborowski" <k3peg@comcast.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 2004 7:40 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Island cutter map
> Hi Ron,
>
> Thanks for your comment on my layout.
>
> My layout can be used as is for what you've mentioned. Print it out
> on plain paper, and mark the center of the pad positions by piercing
> them with a pin. Then lay the paper template on the copper-clad
> board, and use a "Sharpie" black ink marker to mark the copper-clad
> through the holes.
>
> If you want a drilling guide for a pad cutter, attaching the paper
> template to the copper-clad board with spray-mount adhesive may
> work. You may be able to cut through both paper and copper, but I've
> never tried this approach as I don't have an island pad cutter.
>
> 73, Larry - K3PEG
>
> > Is it possible with PowerPoint to just print a "plane" that has
> only the "circles" or "pads"? That way the printout could be used
> for either a gluing guide for the manhatten pads or in my case a
> drilling guide for cutting the circles into the PC board?
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Ron
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for your HP, Epson, Canon or
Lexmark
> Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US &
Canada.
> http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/mOAaAA/3exGAA/qnsNAA/ELTolB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
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>
>
Hi Jerry,
Welcome! My "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ info and layouts file can be
found right here in this Yahoo Group's "FILES" section. They are in
pdf format. Read messages # 2948, 2956 and 2957.
Get the three files that I uploaded. Have fun!
72, Larry - K3PEG ... Glen Burnie, MD
"More active with a soldering iron than a telegraph key!"
______________________
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry Ford"
wrote:
> Hi Larry:
>
> I'm new to the group and just putting together what I need to
start a 2N2-40.
>
> I saw Ron's post and now your reply. Is there a URL where I might
> find your layout ?? Sounds like it could come in very handy.
>
> Thanks a bunch:
>
> 72 Jerry N0JRN
Thanks Larry:
I'll check it out and get things started.
72 Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Przyborowski" <k3peg@comcast.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 2004 11:03 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Island cutter map
> Hi Jerry,
>
> Welcome! My "Extreme Manhattan" 2n2_40+ info and layouts file can be
> found right here in this Yahoo Group's "FILES" section. They are in
> pdf format. Read messages # 2948, 2956 and 2957.
>
> Get the three files that I uploaded. Have fun!
>
> 72, Larry - K3PEG ... Glen Burnie, MD
>
> "More active with a soldering iron than a telegraph key!"
> ______________________
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry Ford"
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Larry:
> >
> > I'm new to the group and just putting together what I need to
> start a 2N2-40.
> >
> > I saw Ron's post and now your reply. Is there a URL where I might
> > find your layout ?? Sounds like it could come in very
handy.
> >
> > Thanks a bunch:
> >
> > 72 Jerry N0JRN
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
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> --------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Last night I separated out the bag-o-parts into baggies for each
section of the rig. I discovered many errors and misinformation in
the Parts-by-Section list. I fixed those I found, mailed to the
participants who received full kits, and posted the corrected PDF on
my website.
I also added links to articles on Manhattan construction by K8IQY and
K7QO.
I think a really good resource for those of you doing
the "traditional" layout is John N1QO's site. I found it in the
LINKS section of the Yahoo Group website. Thanks for the time you
spent on that John!
I may actually solder some today.
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
FP-51
|
2989|2983|2004-05-04 13:06:07|qrpbear|Coupla Q's|I'm looking for a source for an island cutter. AMQrp has discontinued
it. Does anyone know of an alternate source?
Also wondering what the gain of the 2N2-40 audio output stage is. I
am using an LM386 configured for 46 dB gain in the output of a
homebrew direct conversion receiver and I'd like to replace it with
an amp that has about the same gain but a lower THD.
73,
'Bear' NH7SR
|
2990|2983|2004-05-04 14:03:06|Steve Smith|Re: Coupla Q's|Harbor Freight Tools carries a similar item. Cat. # 32398-6VGA .
73.......Steve Smith WB6TNL
Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
On Tue, 04 May 2004 17:04:24 -0000 "qrpbear" <
qrpbear@yahoo.com> writes:
> I'm looking for a source for an island cutter. AMQrp has discontinued
>
> it. Does anyone know of an alternate source?
>
> Also wondering what the gain of the 2N2-40 audio output stage is. I
>
> am using an LM386 configured for 46 dB gain in the output of a
> homebrew direct conversion receiver and I'd like to replace it with
>
> an amp that has about the same gain but a lower THD.
>
> 73,
>
> 'Bear' NH7SR
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
Bear NH7SR
Contact me off list..
"RC"
kc5wa@bayou.com ----- Original Message -----
From: qrpbear
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2004 12:04 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Coupla Q's
I'm looking for a source for an island cutter. AMQrp has discontinued
it. Does anyone know of an alternate source?
Also wondering what the gain of the 2N2-40 audio output stage is. I
am using an LM386 configured for 46 dB gain in the output of a
homebrew direct conversion receiver and I'd like to replace it with
an amp that has about the same gain but a lower THD.
73,
'Bear' NH7SR
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 05:04 PM 5/4/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>I'm looking for a source for an island cutter. AMQrp has discontinued
>it. Does anyone know of an alternate source?
Harbor Freight is supposed to have something that is close, but
can't vouch for it.
>Also wondering what the gain of the 2N2-40 audio output stage is.
I know that answer! The voltage gain is about 38 dB, and the power
gain is 84 dB. The input impedance of the amp is nominally 2K ohms,
and the output transformer is designed to drive 8 ohms, but will
drive higher impedances easily.
> I
>am using an LM386 configured for 46 dB gain in the output of a
>homebrew direct conversion receiver and I'd like to replace it with
>an amp that has about the same gain but a lower THD.
Don't know what the THD is, as I've not measured it, nor run the
SPICE simulation to predict it. Is the 46 dB power gain, or voltage
gain?
72 and have fun,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
Thanks for the info.
The LM386 is running from a 12 volt supply, has a 10 uF feedback cap
between pins 1 and 8 and a bass boost RC network between pin 8 and
the negative side of the output coupling cap to cut high frequency
hiss. According to the National Semiconductors data sheet that is
supposed to give 46 dB power gain or a voltage gain of 200. When
running the LM386 at 12 volts the THD seems to be about 10%. I would
like to get well below 1% if I can.
The receiver I'm using this in is direct conversion with an MPF102
source follower front end feeding a TUF-3 DBM. The DBM is followed by
a simple diplexer then into a common base audio LNA using a 2N3904.
From there it goes to another 2N3904 for some gain through a KK7B LC
lowpass filter, another 2N3904 and finally the LM386. The local
oscillator is an AD9850 DDS covering 0-35 mHz. Except for the LO the
receiver is very similar to the design in EMRFD.
I have the receiver working from MW through 30 mHz now. Performance
is quite good over the 5-12 mHz range but I need to do a lot of front
end work on the other ranges... especially 12 to 30 mHz. It's
intended to be a multipurpose general coverage receiver tuning from
150 kHz to 30 mHz.
73,
'Bear' NH7SR
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Kortge, K8IQY"
wrote:
> At 05:04 PM 5/4/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >I'm looking for a source for an island cutter. AMQrp has
discontinued
> >it. Does anyone know of an alternate source?
>
> Harbor Freight is supposed to have something that is close, but
> can't vouch for it.
>
>
> >Also wondering what the gain of the 2N2-40 audio output stage is.
>
> I know that answer! The voltage gain is about 38 dB, and the power
> gain is 84 dB. The input impedance of the amp is nominally 2K ohms,
> and the output transformer is designed to drive 8 ohms, but will
> drive higher impedances easily.
>
> > I
> >am using an LM386 configured for 46 dB gain in the output of a
> >homebrew direct conversion receiver and I'd like to replace it with
> >an amp that has about the same gain but a lower THD.
>
> Don't know what the THD is, as I've not measured it, nor run the
> SPICE simulation to predict it. Is the 46 dB power gain, or voltage
> gain?
>
> 72 and have fun,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Robert,
I would but when I click on the kc5wa@b... Yahoo insists on making it
a post to the group instead of switching me over to eMail.
73,
'Bear' NH7SR
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Robert W Conley" wrote:
> Bear NH7SR
> Contact me off list..
> "RC"
> kc5wa@b...
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: qrpbear
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2004 12:04 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Coupla Q's
>
>
> I'm looking for a source for an island cutter. AMQrp has
discontinued
> it. Does anyone know of an alternate source?
>
> Also wondering what the gain of the 2N2-40 audio output stage is.
I
> am using an LM386 configured for 46 dB gain in the output of a
> homebrew direct conversion receiver and I'd like to replace it
with
> an amp that has about the same gain but a lower THD.
>
> 73,
>
> 'Bear' NH7SR
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Steve,
Thanks for the part#. I nipped over to Harbor Freight's site and
looked at it. Just might fill the bill.
73,
'Bear' NH7SR
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Steve Smith wrote:
> Harbor Freight Tools carries a similar item. Cat. # 32398-6VGA .
>
> 73.......Steve Smith WB6TNL
> Oxnard, CA USA
> "Snort Rosin"
>
>
> On Tue, 04 May 2004 17:04:24 -0000 "qrpbear" writes:
> > I'm looking for a source for an island cutter. AMQrp has
discontinued
> >
> > it. Does anyone know of an alternate source?
> >
> > Also wondering what the gain of the 2N2-40 audio output stage is.
I
> >
> > am using an LM386 configured for 46 dB gain in the output of a
> > homebrew direct conversion receiver and I'd like to replace it
with
> >
> > an amp that has about the same gain but a lower THD.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > 'Bear' NH7SR
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
Folks,
first of all, kudos to Larry for his beautiful diagrams. They are a
pleasure to see, and a great proof of his abilities.
The idea of gluing the map to a board to use as a reference for the
Island cutter works OK, IF and ONLY IF you remember to clean up the
cutter quite frequently from the piece of paper that usually gets caught
into it. Else, one after the other, they bunch to each other and later
they disrupt the cutting action.
Also, if you don't want to put glue on your board, you may stick the
plan with tape on the sides and use a inside-to-outside pattern to make
the cuts, just in case you loose a small bit of paper after several cuts
on the same area.
Hope it helps.
jon, ea2s
|
2997|2997|2004-05-06 09:05:27|altoidham|2n2 construction methods|Hello all,
While I'm waiting the arrival of parts from several sources, I've
made an attempt to read many of the previous posts to this list and
to view some of the pictures of "works in progress."
Unless my eyes are failing, I think I've seen two primary types of
construction being followed. The first is basically outling a 5x7
board and building each "module" in the prescribed space. The second
is actually building each "module" then attaching them to a base
(board).
Am I correct in my assumptions and does anyone have preferences one
way or the other? I'm leaning heavily toward the single board
concept.
Thanks for any input.
73 de W4MIL
Chuck
|
2998|2997|2004-05-06 11:03:02|Rev. Mac Steinmeyer|Re: 2n2 construction methods|I guess it depends on your goals. I use modular sections if I am going to experiment (interchange parts or sections such as filters, mixers, or amps). My Multi-Pig rig is done this way, so I can use the EXCELLENT freq. readout and/or keyer with different rigs.
My old 2n2 rig hears VERY well... I would say, to MY ears, only my K2 beats it for weak signal work on 40m. That says a lot about Jim's design... it works well even if _I_ build it! Therefore, I wish I had done it modular style so I could use the RX portion (as opposed to a Tin Ear, MRX-40, or even my SW40+) when using a Tuna Tin or Fireball TX.
I also use modular style if I am going to "stack" boards into a small enclosure.
But if you don't need to worry about those things, then the larger single board is most convenient!
Let us know what you decide, and upload pictures!
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: altoidham
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2004 8:49 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2n2 construction methods
Hello all,
While I'm waiting the arrival of parts from several sources, I've
made an attempt to read many of the previous posts to this list and
to view some of the pictures of "works in progress."
Unless my eyes are failing, I think I've seen two primary types of
construction being followed. The first is basically outling a 5x7
board and building each "module" in the prescribed space. The second
is actually building each "module" then attaching them to a base
(board).
Am I correct in my assumptions and does anyone have preferences one
way or the other? I'm leaning heavily toward the single board
concept.
Thanks for any input.
73 de W4MIL
Chuck
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
So........why not build another 2n2-40 receiver for use with the TT2,
etc. ?
Probably wouldn't take all that long.
73
Dick K2JQ
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Rev. Mac Steinmeyer"
wrote:
> Therefore, I wish I had done it modular style so I could use the RX
portion (as opposed to a Tin Ear, MRX-40, or even my SW40+) when
using a Tuna Tin or Fireball TX.
>
>So........why not build another 2n2-40 receiver for use with
>the TT2, etc. ?
>
>Probably wouldn't take all that long.
>
>73
>Dick K2JQ
YA! That's the REAL reason behind the recent Flying Pig Group build for the 2n2-40+. I needed incentive to dig up the parts. Gonna do this one modular style. However, my track record for duplicating success is pitiful!
I'm alao eagerly anticipating Jim's 2n2-20.
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Mac, ur points are well taken. With the subsequent comments from
K2JG, my leanings toward the single board may change. Yep, building
up just an RX section would answer a need or two I currently have ---
namely an RX to pair with my "oner".
BTW Mac, I rec'd ur letter. Thanks. A return mailing is in progress.
I concur with ur comments about being anxious for the 2n2-20.
Thanks, all
Chuck
W4MIL
|
3002|3002|2004-05-16 20:44:08|va3jff|THANKS PIGGIES!|Hi All!
I would like to give a public THANKS to all the FP group for their
donation to the Dayton FDIM Building Contest Prizes. I picked up 3rd
place in the homebrew contest with my 2N2/40, and won a fabulous box
of Almost Junque.
If you recall, I started out with little to no junque box, so this is
a great help to me.
THANKS!!
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
|
3003|3002|2004-05-16 21:18:44|Robert W Conley|Re: THANKS PIGGIES!|so lets see a picture.....huh?
----- Original Message -----
From: va3jff
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2004 7:44 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] THANKS PIGGIES!
Hi All!
I would like to give a public THANKS to all the FP group for their
donation to the Dayton FDIM Building Contest Prizes. I picked up 3rd
place in the homebrew contest with my 2N2/40, and won a fabulous box
of Almost Junque.
If you recall, I started out with little to no junque box, so this is
a great help to me.
THANKS!!
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
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2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
There is a picture posted in the Photos section. It shows the inner
workings of my 2N2/40 before being put into the case. I will upload
a complete photo or two once I find where I packed the camera ... I
know it's in this luggage somewhere ;)
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Robert W Conley" wrote:
> so lets see a picture.....huh?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: va3jff
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2004 7:44 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] THANKS PIGGIES!
>
>
> Hi All!
>
> I would like to give a public THANKS to all the FP group for
their
> donation to the Dayton FDIM Building Contest Prizes. I picked up
3rd
> place in the homebrew contest with my 2N2/40, and won a fabulous
box
> of Almost Junque.
>
> If you recall, I started out with little to no junque box, so
this is
> a great help to me.
>
> THANKS!!
>
> 73/72
> Jeff - VA3JFF
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 06:23 PM 5/16/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Ok, so I waited five years to start on a 2N2-40 :) I was cleaning up and
>happened to find the crystals for the 2N2-40, and somewhere I once saw the
>layout for the pads on copper clad for the rig. I've googled, yahoo'd and
>even went thru my back issues of QRPp, and I got nuttin'. Anyone happen
>to know where I can find the layout to use the islander to setup the pads
>for the rig? Thanks in advance...
Try the Winter 1998 issue of QRPp, page 13 for the layout of
the 2N2/40 pads. I think there was one missing in the IF Amplifier,
but that will be obvious if you follow the schematic.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Trying to down load the 2n2222abcd02.PDF that is the list of
materials but it comes up empty. Pse help on this one. Thanks
72
Gene N0MQ
|
3007|3002|2004-05-17 15:11:22|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: THANKS PIGGIES!|At 12:44 AM 5/17/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi All!
>
>I would like to give a public THANKS to all the FP group for their
>donation to the Dayton FDIM Building Contest Prizes. I picked up 3rd
>place in the homebrew contest with my 2N2/40, and won a fabulous box
>of Almost Junque.
>
>If you recall, I started out with little to no junque box, so this is
>a great help to me.
>
>THANKS!!
>
>73/72
> Jeff - VA3JFF
Jeff,
Congrats on the win! Nice to see another 2N2/XX rig take home a
prize. Looking forward to seeing a picture and hopefully,
working you some time.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 06:50 PM 5/17/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Trying to down load the 2n2222abcd02.PDF that is the list of
>materials but it comes up empty. Pse help on this one. Thanks
>72
>Gene N0MQ
Gene,
I just was there and clicked on it. Adobe Reader started up,
and the document looked fine. Not sure why you are having
trouble with it.
That probably isn't the latest bill of material. I should probably
generate a new one off the latest set of schematics, so that it
is as complete as possible. I'll try to get that done today.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hello Everybody.
I have now uploaded a few photos of my 2N2/40 that I have just
finished building. They are located in the Photos section.
The first photo shows the exterior view of the radio. My #1 goal
beyond a functioning radio, was that it had to "look" right. With
the case in place, nobody would see my work inside, but the finished
project needed to have the proper look as a radio.
I used custom printed water slide decals that I designed and printed
on my home Ink Jet printer. The whole process took longer than some
of the more traditional methods of decorating cases, but IMHO it was
worth the effort.
The remaining two photos are interior views. First one taken from
the front, VFO in the centre, finals at the top centred. The second
photo is from the right side (looking from the front) showing the
receiver front end on the left, and the T/R driver circuitry on the
right. The speaker can be seen mounted in the lid at the top of the
photo.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
|
3010|3009|2004-05-18 18:06:35|J. Wagner|Re: Photos of My 2N2/40 now Online|Um, wow?!
What a great looking radio Jeff. Awesome, really. Nice job and thanks for
sharing with us.
73,
John, N1QO
>From: "va3jff" <va3jff@yahoo.ca>
>Reply-To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2n2-40] Photos of My 2N2/40 now Online
>Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 21:06:40 -0000
>
>Hello Everybody.
>
>I have now uploaded a few photos of my 2N2/40 that I have just
>finished building. They are located in the Photos section.
>
>...
>
>73/72
> Jeff - VA3JFF
_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar � get it now!
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/Very nice Jeff...did you make the enclosure yourself?
73
DE KB9BVN
----- Original Message -----
From: "va3jff" <va3jff@yahoo.ca>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2004 4:06 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Photos of My 2N2/40 now Online
> Hello Everybody.
>
> I have now uploaded a few photos of my 2N2/40 that I have just
> finished building. They are located in the Photos section.
>
> The first photo shows the exterior view of the radio. My #1 goal
> beyond a functioning radio, was that it had to "look" right. With
> the case in place, nobody would see my work inside, but the finished
> project needed to have the proper look as a radio.
>
> I used custom printed water slide decals that I designed and printed
> on my home Ink Jet printer. The whole process took longer than some
> of the more traditional methods of decorating cases, but IMHO it was
> worth the effort.
>
> The remaining two photos are interior views. First one taken from
> the front, VFO in the centre, finals at the top centred. The second
> photo is from the right side (looking from the front) showing the
> receiver front end on the left, and the T/R driver circuitry on the
> right. The speaker can be seen mounted in the lid at the top of the
> photo.
>
> 73/72
> Jeff - VA3JFF
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> Yahoo! Domains - Claim yours for only $14.70
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/Z1wmxD/DREIAA/yQLSAA/ELTolB/TM
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------~
->
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hi Brian,
The enclosure I purchased quite some time ago from Radio Shack. It
was probably purchased around 1996 for a project that ended up in a
different box.
I used the Radio Shack enclosure, and just create the custom decals.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" wrote:
> Very nice Jeff...did you make the enclosure yourself?
>
> 73
>
> DE KB9BVN
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "va3jff"
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2004 4:06 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Photos of My 2N2/40 now Online
>
>
> > Hello Everybody.
> >
> > I have now uploaded a few photos of my 2N2/40 that I have just
> > finished building. They are located in the Photos section.
> >
> > The first photo shows the exterior view of the radio. My #1 goal
> > beyond a functioning radio, was that it had to "look" right. With
> > the case in place, nobody would see my work inside, but the
finished
> > project needed to have the proper look as a radio.
> >
> > I used custom printed water slide decals that I designed and
printed
> > on my home Ink Jet printer. The whole process took longer than
some
> > of the more traditional methods of decorating cases, but IMHO it
was
> > worth the effort.
> >
> > The remaining two photos are interior views. First one taken from
> > the front, VFO in the centre, finals at the top centred. The
second
> > photo is from the right side (looking from the front) showing the
> > receiver front end on the left, and the T/R driver circuitry on
the
> > right. The speaker can be seen mounted in the lid at the top of
the
> > photo.
> >
> > 73/72
> > Jeff - VA3JFF
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
> Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> > Yahoo! Domains - Claim yours for only $14.70
> > http://us.click.yahoo.com/Z1wmxD/DREIAA/yQLSAA/ELTolB/TM
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
---~
> ->
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
Jeff I'll be satisfied if mine even works let alone look as stunning as yours does...beautifull job 72 es oo RC
----- Original Message -----
From: va3jff
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2004 6:40 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Photos of My 2N2/40 now Online
Hi Brian,
The enclosure I purchased quite some time ago from Radio Shack. It
was probably purchased around 1996 for a project that ended up in a
different box.
I used the Radio Shack enclosure, and just create the custom decals.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" wrote:
> Very nice Jeff...did you make the enclosure yourself?
>
> 73
>
> DE KB9BVN
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "va3jff"
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2004 4:06 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Photos of My 2N2/40 now Online
>
>
> > Hello Everybody.
> >
> > I have now uploaded a few photos of my 2N2/40 that I have just
> > finished building. They are located in the Photos section.
> >
> > The first photo shows the exterior view of the radio. My #1 goal
> > beyond a functioning radio, was that it had to "look" right. With
> > the case in place, nobody would see my work inside, but the
finished
> > project needed to have the proper look as a radio.
> >
> > I used custom printed water slide decals that I designed and
printed
> > on my home Ink Jet printer. The whole process took longer than
some
> > of the more traditional methods of decorating cases, but IMHO it
was
> > worth the effort.
> >
> > The remaining two photos are interior views. First one taken from
> > the front, VFO in the centre, finals at the top centred. The
second
> > photo is from the right side (looking from the front) showing the
> > receiver front end on the left, and the T/R driver circuitry on
the
> > right. The speaker can be seen mounted in the lid at the top of
the
> > photo.
> >
> > 73/72
> > Jeff - VA3JFF
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
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> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim,
This would be a good thing. I had a tuff time resolving the old list to the new schematics. Several of us worked on a new list which I put as a PDF on my website, but honestly, I'd rather have one from YOU! - grin.
-MAC-
AF4PS
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2004 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2222abcd02.PDF not working
At 06:50 PM 5/17/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Trying to down load the 2n2222abcd02.PDF that is the list of
>materials but it comes up empty. Pse help on this one. Thanks
>72
>Gene N0MQ
Gene,
I just was there and clicked on it. Adobe Reader started up,
and the document looked fine. Not sure why you are having
trouble with it.
That probably isn't the latest bill of material. I should probably
generate a new one off the latest set of schematics, so that it
is as complete as possible. I'll try to get that done today.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
But Mac...your list is always shorter.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rev. Mac Steinmeyer" <rev.mac@verizon.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2222abcd02.PDF not working
> Jim,
>
> This would be a good thing. I had a tuff time resolving the old list
to the new schematics. Several of us worked on a new list which I put
as a PDF on my website, but honestly, I'd rather have one from YOU! -
grin.
>
> -MAC-
> AF4PS
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2004 9:06 AM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2222abcd02.PDF not working
>
>
> At 06:50 PM 5/17/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Trying to down load the 2n2222abcd02.PDF that is the list of
> >materials but it comes up empty. Pse help on this one. Thanks
> >72
> >Gene N0MQ
>
> Gene,
>
> I just was there and clicked on it. Adobe Reader started up,
> and the document looked fine. Not sure why you are having
> trouble with it.
>
> That probably isn't the latest bill of material. I should probably
> generate a new one off the latest set of schematics, so that it
> is as complete as possible. I'll try to get that done today.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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HAHAHAHAHAHA!
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2222abcd02.PDF not working
But Mac...your list is always shorter.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I am looking for a manual and parts list for Dave Benson's K1SWL (ex
NN1G) Mark II/III XCVR The PCB's are available at Far's but no parts
list. You might also find the documentation in the 1995 ARRL HB. I've
already asked Dave and the Documentation was lost when he moved.
|
3018|3006|2004-05-23 11:14:49|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N2/40+ BOM|At 09:24 AM 5/19/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>This would be a good thing. I had a tuff time resolving the old list to
>the new schematics. Several of us worked on a new list which I put as a
>PDF on my website, but honestly, I'd rather have one from YOU! - grin.
>
>-MAC-
>AF4PS
Mac and 2N2/40+ gang,
The Bill of Material file that is with the 2N2/40+ schematic files
is the correct BOM for that version of the rig. The BOM isn't
sorted, but it is complete, as far as I can tell. It was generated
by the set of schematics it resides with, so you can use it with
confidence.
72 and keep building...... :-)
Jim, K8IQY
I am just getting started building the 2n2-40+. I have most of the
hard to obtain parts on the way. I plan to use N8IQY'S schematics
that are posted here in the files section. Is there a pad layout
plan available for this version? I plan to build on the single board
vice the modular scheme.
Thanks,
Bob
WB6KWT
|
3020|3020|2004-06-02 20:57:26|dvcamvideo2004|Crystal Set|Anyone have a set of matched crystals they can spare.
Thanks,
Bob
WB6KWT
|
3021|3021|2004-06-06 23:49:42|edbro04|Schematics and layouts|Hello, getting ready to try my hand at this project. I just wanted to
know if the K3PEG layout is based on the 10/18/2001 latest schematics
or are they modified?
Thanks
Eddie
|
3022|3020|2004-06-07 11:04:37|macstein@aol.com|Re: Crystal Set|In a message dated 6/2/2004 8:58:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dvcamvideo2004@yahoo.com writes:
>
> Anyone have a set of matched crystals they can spare.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> WB6KWT
Bob,
Did you find a set of matched crystals? (I was on vacation!)
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odesa, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Mac,
You are the only one who responded. If you have a set, Please let me know what you want for them. I have 20 crystals coming, which I would be willing to trade. Please let me know your pleasure.
Thanks,
Bob
WB6KWT
macstein@aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 6/2/2004 8:58:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dvcamvideo2004@yahoo.com writes:
>
> Anyone have a set of matched crystals they can spare.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> WB6KWT
Bob,
Did you find a set of matched crystals? (I was on vacation!)
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odesa, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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__________________________________________________
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Hi Eddie,
Yes! My "EM" layouts follow the schematics posted here by K8IQY.
Have fun building.
73, Larry - K3PEG
"edbro04"
wrote:
> Hello, getting ready to try my hand at this project. I just wanted
to
> know if the K3PEG layout is based on the 10/18/2001 latest
schematics
> or are they modified?
>
> Thanks
>
> Eddie
Anyone have a copy for sale of the 2n22-40 book by Paul? I have tried
to email him but the rt66.com address gets bounced back.
Thanks
Bob
WB6KWT
|
3026|3025|2004-06-07 14:39:32|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: Paul Harden|At 06:00 PM 6/7/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Anyone have a copy for sale of the 2n22-40 book by Paul? I have tried
>to email him but the rt66.com address gets bounced back.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bob
>WB6KWT
Try him at this address:
na5n@zianet.com The rt66 address hasn't been active in a loooooog time! :-)
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Larry
Larry Przyborowski <
k3peg@comcast.net> wrote:Hi Eddie,
Yes! My "EM" layouts follow the schematics posted here by K8IQY.
Have fun building.
73, Larry - K3PEG
"edbro04"
wrote:
> Hello, getting ready to try my hand at this project. I just wanted
to
> know if the K3PEG layout is based on the 10/18/2001 latest
schematics
> or are they modified?
>
> Thanks
>
> Eddie
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]I am starting on the VFO and notice that TC3, VFO range trimmer, is
optional. I don't have one right not and wonder how important it is
to have it installed. I will build without it for now and put it in
when I aquire it. Any comments appreciated.
Bob
WB6KWT
|
3029|3028|2004-06-10 10:00:42|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: TC3|At 10:14 PM 6/9/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>I am starting on the VFO and notice that TC3, VFO range trimmer, is
>optional. I don't have one right not and wonder how important it is
>to have it installed.
It can be left out without significant impact on the rig. Without
it, the VFO span may be a little less than the 100 KHz design, but
so what. You can always add it later, or just use a small, fixed
capacitor in its place to achieve the required span. In fact, I've
used a twisted pair of wires about 1.5 inches long as the parallel
capacitor, and nipped them off to set the required capacitance for
100 KHz VFO span. Once trimmed, no additional adjustment is required.
> I will build without it for now and put it in
>when I aquire it. Any comments appreciated.
See above....... :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Back in April a question was asked about checking out the first
stage of the rig. I can't find an answer to the question on the
group. Mac asked if anyone had developed a stage-by-stage check out
procedures. Since I just got started building, I have the same
questions.
If I apply power to the RX/TX and ground the key line should I see
the receive line go to ground?
Thanks,
Bob
wB6KWT
|
3031|3030|2004-06-12 08:44:29|Mac Steinmeyer|Re: RX/TX Driver|The original article Jim and Paul H. did for QRPp has the info you are looking for. The PLUS version has some differences in layout and componants, but the "testing" info is helpful. You should get a package in the mail this week.
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: dvcamvideo2004
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2004 8:19 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] RX/TX Driver
Back in April a question was asked about checking out the first
stage of the rig. I can't find an answer to the question on the
group. Mac asked if anyone had developed a stage-by-stage check out
procedures. Since I just got started building, I have the same
questions.
If I apply power to the RX/TX and ground the key line should I see
the receive line go to ground?
Thanks,
Bob
wB6KWT
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thanks Mac, I will be looking for it. I finished up the VFO
lastnight, just need to connect up power and see it works.
Bob
WB6KWT
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Mac Steinmeyer"
wrote:
> The original article Jim and Paul H. did for QRPp has the info you
are looking for. The PLUS version has some differences in layout
and componants, but the "testing" info is helpful. You should get a
package in the mail this week.
>
> -MAC-
> AF4PS
> Odessa, FL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: dvcamvideo2004
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 2004 8:19 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] RX/TX Driver
>
>
> Back in April a question was asked about checking out the first
> stage of the rig. I can't find an answer to the question on the
> group. Mac asked if anyone had developed a stage-by-stage check
out
> procedures. Since I just got started building, I have the same
> questions.
> If I apply power to the RX/TX and ground the key line should I
see
> the receive line go to ground?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> wB6KWT
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
of Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
My 2N240 has problem on Transmit. Seems if you hold the key down I
can hear a nice clean tone on another receiver. But if I key if via
a keyer I can not hear the tone very well at all... I have lots of S-
Meter reading but it is if it is changing freq when I use a keyer or
something. Any ideas on this???
Steve
|
3034|3033|2004-06-27 10:18:20|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: 2N240 Xmti woes|At 07:48 PM 6/26/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>My 2N240 has problem on Transmit. Seems if you hold the key down I
>can hear a nice clean tone on another receiver. But if I key if via
>a keyer I can not hear the tone very well at all... I have lots of S-
>Meter reading but it is if it is changing freq when I use a keyer or
>something. Any ideas on this???
>
>Steve
Hi Steve,
I'm wondering if what you are hearing is the result of RF getting
into the keyer, or keyer line from the keyer to the rig. Another
thought is that the keyer transistor isn't saturating and pulling
the keyline of the 2N2/40 down close enough to ground.
What kind of keyer are you using with the rig?
72 and GL finding the problem,
Jim, K8IQY
I think I found the problem Jim. It was not the 2N240 but the Corsair II.
Seems it acts funny when it hears the 2N240 when it is sending out dits (KC
Keyer)...The Corsair II is just fine if I put out a steady carrier, I tried
the same test with a Omni-D and it hears the 2N240 just fine if it is
putting out dits or a carrier. I even tried turning the rf gain way down on
the Corsair II and it still acted the same. So dunno what gives in the
Corsair II but it is the way it is.
Any progress on the 2N220 yet? A friend of mine came over yesterday and was
enamored by the 2N240 and he and I decided we would both build the 2N220
when you have it ready for prime time.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N240 Xmti woes
> At 07:48 PM 6/26/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >My 2N240 has problem on Transmit. Seems if you hold the key down I
> >can hear a nice clean tone on another receiver. But if I key if via
> >a keyer I can not hear the tone very well at all... I have lots of S-
> >Meter reading but it is if it is changing freq when I use a keyer or
> >something. Any ideas on this???
> >
> >Steve
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> I'm wondering if what you are hearing is the result of RF getting
> into the keyer, or keyer line from the keyer to the rig. Another
> thought is that the keyer transistor isn't saturating and pulling
> the keyline of the 2N2/40 down close enough to ground.
>
> What kind of keyer are you using with the rig?
>
> 72 and GL finding the problem,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hi Steve,
It sounds like the Corsair II's AGC is not set properly for CW
reception. You might try adjusting the AGC time constant.
GL!
72/73,
*Lew*
N5ZE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stever1k" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 13:19 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N240 Xmti woes
> I think I found the problem Jim. It was not the 2N240 but the
Corsair II.
> Steve
>
That was the same conclusion I came to on the Corsair II. I have not had
any problem in the past with it but I am not a big user of that radio. I am
not sure how I go about adjusting the time constant. Is there something in
the manual which explains how to do this Lew??
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lew Paceley" <lew@paceley.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: <stever1k@hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N240 Xmti woes
> Hi Steve,
> It sounds like the Corsair II's AGC is not set properly for CW
> reception. You might try adjusting the AGC time constant.
>
> GL!
>
>
> 72/73,
> *Lew*
> N5ZE
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stever1k" <stever1k@hotmail.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 13:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N240 Xmti woes
>
>
> > I think I found the problem Jim. It was not the 2N240 but the
> Corsair II.
> > Steve
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
At 12:57 AM 6/3/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Anyone have a set of matched crystals they can spare.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob
>WB6KWT
Bob,
Were you able to locate a set of crystals for your rig?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
Yes Mac provided me with a set.
Thanks,
Bob
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <
jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
At 12:57 AM 6/3/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Anyone have a set of matched crystals they can spare.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob
>WB6KWT
Bob,
Were you able to locate a set of crystals for your rig?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hello All,
I can't seem to get the rx/tx part of the circuit to function as it
should. If I understand the way it works, I should have 12V on RX
until the key line is pulled to ground. I have only about .5Vs with
key up and it goes to 12V when the key line is grounded. This is
just backwards from what it should be.
Tx seems to be functioning as designed ie it is 0V with key up and
goes to 12v when the key line is pulled to ground.
I have isolated this section from everything else. I breadboarded
up the circuit using spare components and get the same conditions.
I had someone else look at the circuit, as I have it wired up, and
he confirms that it is connected per the circuit drawings. I used a
2N3904 thinking I may have a batch of those pn2222's that are not
standard pin outs, nothing helped.
Is there an error in the circuit?
Any help appreciated.
Bob
WB6KWT
|
3041|3040|2004-07-03 19:37:01|Jim Kortge, K8IQY|Re: RX/TX Problems|At 05:08 PM 7/3/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello All,
>
>I can't seem to get the rx/tx part of the circuit to function as it
>should. If I understand the way it works, I should have 12V on RX
>until the key line is pulled to ground. I have only about .5Vs with
>key up and it goes to 12V when the key line is grounded. This is
>just backwards from what it should be.
>
>Tx seems to be functioning as designed ie it is 0V with key up and
>goes to 12v when the key line is pulled to ground.
>
>I have isolated this section from everything else. I breadboarded
>up the circuit using spare components and get the same conditions.
>I had someone else look at the circuit, as I have it wired up, and
>he confirms that it is connected per the circuit drawings. I used a
>2N3904 thinking I may have a batch of those pn2222's that are not
>standard pin outs, nothing helped.
>
>Is there an error in the circuit?
>
>Any help appreciated.
>
>Bob
>WB6KWT
Bob,
Which version of the 2N2/40 did you build? Inquiring minds (mine)
want to know. Having that info may help me figure out what is
going on with your Rx/Tx circuitry.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
This is the 2n240+. I am using the pdf files from the Yahoo group that you uploaded.
Bob
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <
jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
At 05:08 PM 7/3/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello All,
>
>I can't seem to get the rx/tx part of the circuit to function as it
>should. If I understand the way it works, I should have 12V on RX
>until the key line is pulled to ground. I have only about .5Vs with
>key up and it goes to 12V when the key line is grounded. This is
>just backwards from what it should be.
>
>Tx seems to be functioning as designed ie it is 0V with key up and
>goes to 12v when the key line is pulled to ground.
>
>I have isolated this section from everything else. I breadboarded
>up the circuit using spare components and get the same conditions.
>I had someone else look at the circuit, as I have it wired up, and
>he confirms that it is connected per the circuit drawings. I used a
>2N3904 thinking I may have a batch of those pn2222's that are not
>standard pin outs, nothing helped.
>
>Is there an error in the circuit?
>
>Any help appreciated.
>
>Bob
>WB6KWT
Bob,
Which version of the 2N2/40 did you build? Inquiring minds (mine)
want to know. Having that info may help me figure out what is
going on with your Rx/Tx circuitry.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
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At 04:47 PM 7/3/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>This is the 2n240+. I am using the pdf files from the Yahoo group that
>you uploaded.
>
>Bob
Bob,
Wish I had asked that question in the beginning. You've built the
version using the J176 audio mute circuit, and it uses a different
Rx/Tx circuit than any of the other versions of the rig. With the
version you built, the Rx voltage goes high on keydown, as does
the Tx voltage. The J176 requires the gate to go high to cut off
the audio. All of the other muting schemes required the Rx voltage
to go low to cut off the audio. Problem solved....the circuit is
working as it was designed, Rx and Tx both go high on key down. The
Rx signal should mute the audio with the key down.
Sorry for all of the confusion, but that happens with several
iterations of the rig in the public domain.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Whew, thank you Jim. I was thinking if I can't get this part of the circuit to work, how am I ever going to get the more complex stuff to work.
Bob
WB6KWT
"Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <
jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
At 04:47 PM 7/3/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>This is the 2n240+. I am using the pdf files from the Yahoo group that
>you uploaded.
>
>Bob
Bob,
Wish I had asked that question in the beginning. You've built the
version using the J176 audio mute circuit, and it uses a different
Rx/Tx circuit than any of the other versions of the rig. With the
version you built, the Rx voltage goes high on keydown, as does
the Tx voltage. The J176 requires the gate to go high to cut off
the audio. All of the other muting schemes required the Rx voltage
to go low to cut off the audio. Problem solved....the circuit is
working as it was designed, Rx and Tx both go high on key down. The
Rx signal should mute the audio with the key down.
Sorry for all of the confusion, but that happens with several
iterations of the rig in the public domain.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
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At 05:28 AM 7/4/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Whew, thank you Jim. I was thinking if I can't get this part of the
>circuit to work, how am I ever going to get the more complex stuff to work.
>
>Bob
>WB6KWT
Bob,
I'm sorry that I wasted some of your valuable time. Sounds like the
Rx/Tx is working as designed, and hopefully, the rest of the rig will
fall into place without problems. Sorry again for the confusion.
72 and happy building,
Jim, K8IQY
I finally got up enough courage to apply power to the VFO and lo-and-
behold it works. I see a nice clean sinewave on the scope and all
the voltages check out. There is one problem, and that is the VFO
is tuning low, 2070-2160. I tried adjusting TC3 but that didn't
move it up enough. I plan to leave it this way, for now, and move on
to the next stage.
Any suggestions on fixing the freq spread problem above.
Thanks,
Bob
WB6KWT
|
3047|3047|2004-07-14 21:36:02|James R. Duffey|Re: Digest Number 500|Bob - Try spreading the turns of the toroid to reduce the inductance. If
that doesn't help, try removing a turn from the toroid. - Duffey
______________________
James R. Duffey KK6MC/5
Cedar Crest NM 87008 DM65
|
3048|3046|2004-07-15 14:48:47|Jim Kortge|Re: VFO Working|At 06:18 PM 7/12/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>I finally got up enough courage to apply power to the VFO and lo-and-
>behold it works. I see a nice clean sinewave on the scope and all
>the voltages check out. There is one problem, and that is the VFO
>is tuning low, 2070-2160. I tried adjusting TC3 but that didn't
>move it up enough.
TC4 is the trimmer that adjusts the low end of the VFO. TC3
sets the span - how much frequency range it covers. Duffey
also provided good advice, you can always spread out the
turns a bit to lower the inductance, but that failing, taking
off a turn or two will do the trick. Just go slowly, so you don't
take off too many turns.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Guys
I finally ended with the VFO with great succes (at least it is my
thought)
It take me some time to get the right capacitors material combination
(Polyester, polyestyrene, NP0 ceramic, etc.) note that I am using
recycled (not new) material from computers, VCR´s, TV´s sets, etc.,
there are some
reasons for that, I have a lot of them and electronic components are
getting
expensive down here.
It oscilate at the very first try at 2.130Mhz (pretty lucky, isn't it)
and then I
modified it to a different frecuency (3 Mhz) because I have a bunch of 4
Mhz crystals for the filter. Because there aren´t to much varicaps
around here the
other thing I have not used is the MVAM109 as per design and I´m using
a 1N4007 instead, in my circuit it takes me from 2.994Mhz to
3.042Mhz(48Khz span, it is enough for me, remember that here we use
7.030 as QRP frecuency like in Europe.
After I got it working at the right frecuency and with the correct
capacitor material combination, the drift was very little compared with
other oscilators I have built in the past, it drifted just only 28 Hz
from 3.035,374 at the start to 3.035.404 after 2 hours (just with the
frecuency meter clipped to it).
Great design. ******** T h a n k y o u Jim *******
Well , it is time to get into the RX Input Filter & RF Ampl.
More later.
CU,
Al
--------------------------------------
Al, CX8AT/qrp
http://www.qsl.net/cx8atAt 12:32 AM 7/16/2004 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi Guys
>I finally ended with the VFO with great succes (at least it is my
>thought)
>It take me some time to get the right capacitors material combination
>(Polyester, polyestyrene, NP0 ceramic, etc.) note that I am using
>recycled (not new) material from computers, VCR´s, TV´s sets, etc.,
>there are some
>reasons for that, I have a lot of them and electronic components are
>getting
>expensive down here.
>
>It oscilate at the very first try at 2.130Mhz (pretty lucky, isn't it)
>and then I
>modified it to a different frecuency (3 Mhz) because I have a bunch of 4
>Mhz crystals for the filter. Because there aren´t to much varicaps
>around here the
>other thing I have not used is the MVAM109 as per design and I´m using
>a 1N4007 instead, in my circuit it takes me from 2.994Mhz to
>3.042Mhz(48Khz span, it is enough for me, remember that here we use
>7.030 as QRP frecuency like in Europe.
>After I got it working at the right frecuency and with the correct
>capacitor material combination, the drift was very little compared with
>other oscilators I have built in the past, it drifted just only 28 Hz
>from 3.035,374 at the start to 3.035.404 after 2 hours (just with the
>frecuency meter clipped to it).
>Great design. ******** T h a n k y o u Jim *******
>Well , it is time to get into the RX Input Filter & RF Ampl.
>More later.
>CU,
>Al
>--------------------------------------
> Al, CX8AT/qrp
> http://www.qsl.net/cx8at
Al,
Thanks for your great post, and all the info on improvising on
the 2N2/40+ VFO. It's nice to know that it can be built using
recycled parts, and still work well! That's a great piece of
info for me, and others who don't have access to the niffty
parts we have here in the US.
72 and good luck with the rest of your build,
Jim, K8IQY
I have most of the parts for my 2n2/40 and am about to start
building, but have a problem with the crystals.
I ordered 15 - 4.915 MHz from Mouser thinking I should be able to
find enough of the right frequency from that many.
I used a one transistor oscillator circuit I got from some qrp
magazine or web page a long time ago. I checked the crystals with
my freq. counter and they came out at the 4th overtone. I got
19.655xx for the frequencies and only 3 of them are within 25 Hz. I
divided by 4 to get the right frequencies.
Then I discovered that it looks like I need 5 matched crystals,
instead of 3.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.\
Ron, WA0MWW
|
3052|3052|2004-07-16 20:48:48|AL|Front End working|Hi
I have just finished to adjust the Front End with succes and hope that
the pocedure I applied was the right one .
I made one transistor oscillator with one Norcal 7.040 crystal,(checked
that frecuency in my receiver), injected its signal to point
(B)(primary of T1)of the RX Input Filter after conect the output (point
(C)) of the Diode Ring Mixer to the receiver antenna terminal, and
checked if it is any signal present at 4.000Mhz in the receiver, found a
big one. I want to make clear that this frecuency it is not the one most
of you are using, I will use 4.000Mhz crystals for the IF filter, so
that´s the reason. Then I tweaked TC1 and TC2 for maximum output at the
receiver S meter. (Could it be better (more precise) read the voltage at
the output?) I don´t have to much instrumental available.
Now I have a question, if everything I did for adjusting the Front End
was correct, Is it possible now to change TC1 and TC2 for fixed
capacitors of the correct values or later I will to re-adjust them with
all stages working together?
I made a little change in value of the resistor R11 (68 ohms) at the
emiter of the RF ampl transistor, with the one suggested the transistor
got hot (almost very hot, the one I am using is 2n2222A, metalic case),
the voltages I got are those specified, so if emiter voltage is 1.3V
and R11=68 the emiter current is 19mA to High in my opinion. I changed
its value to 100 ohms and now the calculated current is 13mA and no hot
transistor.
I have finished the Mixer Ampl and tomorrow I will start with the Xtal
Filter and IF Amp.
------------------------------------
Al, CX8AT/qrp
http://www.qsl.net/cx8atHi Ron,
you need only 3 matched (for the filter)and 2 other that don´t need to
be matched,por ex. if you see the circuit of the Rx oscillator, you have
TC5 in combination with L3 in serie with the crystal that will let you
change its frecuency at least 2 or 3 Khz.
Al
wa0mww wrote:
>
> I have most of the parts for my 2n2/40 and am about to start
> building, but have a problem with the crystals.
>
> I ordered 15 - 4.915 MHz from Mouser thinking I should be able to
> find enough of the right frequency from that many.
>
> I used a one transistor oscillator circuit I got from some qrp
> magazine or web page a long time ago. I checked the crystals with
> my freq. counter and they came out at the 4th overtone. I got
> 19.655xx for the frequencies and only 3 of them are within 25 Hz. I
> divided by 4 to get the right frequencies.
>
> Then I discovered that it looks like I need 5 matched crystals,
> instead of 3.
>
> Any thoughts greatly appreciated.\
>
> Ron, WA0MWW
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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--
--------------------------------------
Al, CX8AT/qrp
http://www.qsl.net/cx8atAt 12:12 AM 7/17/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>I have most of the parts for my 2n2/40 and am about to start
>building, but have a problem with the crystals.
>
>I ordered 15 - 4.915 MHz from Mouser thinking I should be able to
>find enough of the right frequency from that many.
Normally, 15 would be more than enough to get the 3 matched
units that the filter needs.
>I used a one transistor oscillator circuit I got from some qrp
>magazine or web page a long time ago. I checked the crystals with
>my freq. counter and they came out at the 4th overtone.
Something wrong either with your counter or the oscillator circuit
that you used. They should be oscillating at 4.915 MHz nominally.
> I got
>19.655xx for the frequencies and only 3 of them are within 25 Hz. I
>divided by 4 to get the right frequencies.
That should be fine, but see the comment above about the crystals
oscillating at their fundamental frequency.
>Then I discovered that it looks like I need 5 matched crystals,
>instead of 3.
No, only 3 matched units are required. The Rx and Tx LO crystals can
be shifted in frequency via the trimmers in the oscillator circuits
to put them on the required frequency to match up with the center
of the filter minus 750 Hz.
I'd suggest if you are going to match the crystals using an oscillator
that you build the Tx LO circuit and use that. The crystals should be
oscillating at their fundamental in that circuit. If not, then your
counter isn't seeing the correct frequency for some reason.
>Any thoughts greatly appreciated.\
Lots.....see above! :-)
72 and keep us posted please,
Jim, K8IQY
At 09:48 PM 7/16/2004 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi
Greetings Al,
>I have just finished to adjust the Front End with succes and hope that
>the pocedure I applied was the right one .
>
>I made one transistor oscillator with one Norcal 7.040 crystal,(checked
>that frecuency in my receiver), injected its signal to point
>(B)(primary of T1)of the RX Input Filter after conect the output (point
>(C)) of the Diode Ring Mixer to the receiver antenna terminal, and
>checked if it is any signal present at 4.000Mhz in the receiver, found a
>big one. I want to make clear that this frecuency it is not the one most
>of you are using, I will use 4.000Mhz crystals for the IF filter, so
>that´s the reason. Then I tweaked TC1 and TC2 for maximum output at the
>receiver S meter. (Could it be better (more precise) read the voltage at
>the output?) I don´t have to much instrumental available.
Doing what you did is exactly what you want to do to peak up the
front-end filter Al.
>
>Now I have a question, if everything I did for adjusting the Front End
>was correct, Is it possible now to change TC1 and TC2 for fixed
>capacitors of the correct values or later I will to re-adjust them with
>all stages working together?
Leave them as trimmers as the values will change when the input of
the band pass filter is attached to the Tx output filter and the
other circuitry between that point and the input of the Rx band pass
filter.
>I made a little change in value of the resistor R11 (68 ohms) at the
>emiter of the RF ampl transistor, with the one suggested the transistor
>got hot (almost very hot, the one I am using is 2n2222A, metalic case),
>the voltages I got are those specified, so if emiter voltage is 1.3V
>and R11=68 the emiter current is 19mA to High in my opinion.
OK if you use a heat sink on the transistor. It was set high to
give the RF Amplifier a better intercept point.
> I changed
>its value to 100 ohms and now the calculated current is 13mA and no hot
>transistor.
Yes, that is fine, but the amp will not handle as strong of signals as
it would with the other emitter resistor. Try it that way, and it you
don't have any problems with the amp at lower current, leave it that way.
>I have finished the Mixer Ampl and tomorrow I will start with the Xtal
>Filter and IF Amp.
Great. Boy, you're really moving along fast on your rig.
72 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Jim
I have some questions about the IF filter because there is not any
Mv1662 (max. 275pf) around here and I am using spare 4.0Mhz crystals, so
I have to change a little the original circuit.
My first option , keeping the original design, is to use instead the
MV1662, a fixed capacitor with an 1N4007 in parallel(as used in the VFO
section instead of D7 (MVAM....)), but I think that the maximum capacity
that the 1N4007 can give is abaut 20pf (very low), and in consecuence
the filter's shift will be very little. The MV1662 is out of the
cuestion.
The second option is to build a fixed 5 pole ladder filter (using 4Mhz
crystals of course)and forget the variable crystal filter.
Jim, I need some advice about these options. (which one is the best with
the resouces I have available ?)
Some questions comes to my mind respect to the IF filter.
1) What are the input and the terminating resistance of this filter you
designed? because if I take the the second option I will need to know
that.
2) Do D14 and D15 act as zeners?
3) I understand that, D9 and D10 should be matched, shouldn´t they?
--------------------------------------
Al, CX8AT/qrp
http://www.qsl.net/cx8atFor a fixed 3 pole ladder filter(4Mhz) that could substitute de Variable
cristal filter (4.915Mhz) I think that C34 and C22 and C(D9), C(D10)
should be around 150pf, that´s my guess.
Al
--------------------------------------
Al, CX8AT/qrp
http://www.qsl.net/cx8atI wrote some hours ago:
>
> For a fixed 3 pole ladder filter(4Mhz) that could substitute de
> Variable cristal filter (4.915Mhz) I think that C34 and C22 and C(D9), >C(D10) should be around 150pf, that´s my guess.>
not sure abt that, Now I realize that maybe I was wrong and to keep
everything the same before and after the filter those capacitor should
be near 220pf
C34 Y1 Y2 Y3 C22
---------I I-----I0I-------I0I-------I0I-----I I-----------
l l
l l
_ _
c(D9) _ _ c(D10)
l l
l l
_ _
. .
Any suggestion?
sorry for the drawing
I didn´t try the filter yet.
Al, CX8AT/qrp
http://www.qsl.net/cx8atAt 11:11 AM 7/17/2004 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi Jim
HI Al,
>I have some questions about the IF filter because there is not any
>Mv1662 (max. 275pf) around here and I am using spare 4.0Mhz crystals, so
>I have to change a little the original circuit.
Yes, I understand your problem.
>My first option , keeping the original design, is to use instead the
>MV1662, a fixed capacitor with an 1N4007 in parallel(as used in the VFO
>section instead of D7 (MVAM....)), but I think that the maximum capacity
>that the 1N4007 can give is abaut 20pf (very low), and in consecuence
>the filter's shift will be very little.
That's correct. Not worth implementing the variable BW filter
if you can't get either MV1662 or MVAM108/109 tpye varicap diodes.
The 1N4007 will work as you surmised, very little shift in filter
bandwidth.
> The MV1662 is out of the
>cuestion.
>
>The second option is to build a fixed 5 pole ladder filter (using 4Mhz
>crystals of course)and forget the variable crystal filter.
Well it really doesn't need to be 5 poles. 4 would do a really
good job. 3 would actually be quite decent.
>Jim, I need some advice about these options. (which one is the best with
>the resouces I have available ?)
I put in a fixed bandwidth, 4 pole filter. That will do a very
nice job, especially if the bandwidth is something on the order
of 400 to 500 Hz. I did a quicky generic 4 MHz filter design
using Butterworth response. For a 500 Hz filter, the input,
output, and center coupling capacitors need to be 470 pF,
and the remaining two coupling capacitors need to be 330 pF.
The filter has a nominal input/output impedance of 200 ohms, so
quite reasonable.
>Some questions comes to my mind respect to the IF filter.
>
>1) What are the input and the terminating resistance of this filter you
>designed?
The original filter was 270 ohms.
> because if I take the the second option I will need to know
>that.
Yes, you are correct! :-)
>2) Do D14 and D15 act as zeners?
Yes, those provided the upper and lower supply voltages to the
varicap diodes, nominally 2 to 4 volts.
>3) I understand that, D9 and D10 should be matched, shouldn´t they?
Yes, within reason. If you build the suggested 4 pole fixed filter,
just changing R38 on the post-mixer amp to 200 ohms will take care
of matching the input to the filter. I'd probably take a turn
off the primary of T7 to improve the match on the output. T7's
primary would become 14 turns, instead of 15 turns.
If you need a diagram of the 4 pole filter I can send that, but
I'm guessing you can figure it out fine on your own.
72 and let me know what you think of the above changes,
Jim, K8IQY
At 12:23 PM 7/17/2004 -0300, you wrote:
>For a fixed 3 pole ladder filter(4Mhz) that could substitute de Variable
>cristal filter (4.915Mhz) I think that C34 and C22 and C(D9), C(D10)
>should be around 150pf, that´s my guess.
>
>Al
Probably more like 270 or 330 pF for a 400 to 500 Hz filter I'm
guessing for all of the capacitors if you use a Cohn design. I
would opt for a 4 pole filter using Butterworth response, as the
input/output impedances will be higher.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi there
Well, well, well
Things are going ok down here, I have found some mistakes and problems
but I am on the way to correct them
Everything is done up to the Product detector.
Last sunday went to a Qrp friend home, that has the electronic knowledge
and the instrumental I don´t and we find some things.
First when we checked the VFO we found a pretty solid clean fundamental
signal and 2 armonics, one 25db below and the other almost 50db below,
and the VFO output at the Diode Ring Mixer door was .25 V, so we decided
( my friend´s suggestion) to put a 200pf capacitor at the base of Q3 and
as I put to resistances in series (68+330 tom get the value) at the
emiter of Q3 I put a 1nf capacitor to ground just after the 68ohms
resistance. Now the second armonic desappeared and the only visible
armonic is at least 45db lower than the fundamental and the VFO output
jumped to 0.75v. I added capacitance to c12 but no change.
And Voila! now to days before I realize that T5 and C12 is a resonant
circuit but for 2.2Mhz, and I am working with the VFO at 3Mhz, then just
a change in C12, now 180pf will do the job I hope.I have no way to
measure that little output voltage, I build a RF probe (with 1N4148) but
as they take almost .6V of the source the value I am getting is not of a
great help.I have to be patient and wait until next weekend.
Jim that same sunday I trayed a 4 pole crystal ladder filter and it
seems to be worked ok at the spectrum analyzer, but with C=180pf, I will
try your approach then and check it at the analyzer too, at least yours
will match the impedances before and after.
Sorry but I can´t get the picture yet about the variable Bandwith
filter, when you vary the capacitor you are changing the filter
caracteristics, and probably you could start having some ripple, and if
this is something we are ever trying to avoid in a ladder filter, why
you use it in the design? (I understand it that way)
It is possible to make the 4 pole filter of variable bandwith? if yes
How would be the circuit?
73, AL
JB stand for Junk-box
--------------------------------------
Al, CX8AT/qrp
http://www.qsl.net/cx8atCan someone provide me with the Mouser, or other vendor, part number
that I should use on the 2N22-40+
Thanks,
Bob
WB6KWT
|
3063|3063|2004-07-22 14:23:31|Janzer, Mark|Re: Digest Number 508|Try Dan's Small Parts as well as Mouser
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2004 12:36 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Digest Number 508
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There is 1 message in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Vernier
From: "dvcamvideo2004" <
dvcamvideo2004@yahoo.com>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 16:20:12 -0000
From: "dvcamvideo2004" <
dvcamvideo2004@yahoo.com>
Subject: Vernier
Can someone provide me with the Mouser, or other vendor, part number
that I should use on the 2N22-40+
Thanks,
Bob
WB6KWT
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sorry Jim but no j176 around here and no substitute too.
So I have to go into the Rx Mute with 2N2222.
I have already finished the Rx, but I don't know if everything is ok
yet, I am checking all the components.
I have to know if I can change the J176 rx mute with the one with the
2N2222 and leave the audio pre as it is ? (I remember that the
original circuit is without it)
Al, 73
cx8at
|
3065|3062|2004-07-22 19:33:17|Robert W Conley|Re: Vernier|this is the one I bought for mine
"""mouser #652-H-22-6A""""
Its a 15 turn counter which means it will
count up to 15 revelutions, but it should
work fine for just 10
72/71 'RC' KC5WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "dvcamvideo2004" <dvcamvideo2004@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2004 11:20 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Vernier
> Can someone provide me with the Mouser, or other
vendor, part number
> that I should use on the 2N22-40+
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> WB6KWT
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
At 07:51 PM 7/22/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Sorry Jim but no j176 around here and no substitute too.
>So I have to go into the Rx Mute with 2N2222.
>I have already finished the Rx, but I don't know if everything is ok
>yet, I am checking all the components.
>I have to know if I can change the J176 rx mute with the one with the
>2N2222 and leave the audio pre as it is ? (I remember that the
>original circuit is without it)
>Al, 73
>cx8at
Hi Al,
Yes, you can use the original PN2222 mute circuit with the audio pre-amp.
It will work, but the receiver will have some "thump" as it makes the
transistion from receive to transmit and back again. Also, the PN2222
mute will require you to go back to the original Rx/Tx Switch circuit
that provides a positive voltage for the Rx Mute.
Tell me, could I reliably send you parts via USPS mail for maybe UPS
or DHL. If so, I could send you the parts you are having difficulty
getting. Let me know if that would work, and if so, your mailing
or shipping address.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 01:40 PM 7/21/2004 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi there
>
>Well, well, well
>Things are going ok down here, I have found some mistakes and problems
>but I am on the way to correct them
>Everything is done up to the Product detector.
>Last sunday went to a Qrp friend home, that has the electronic knowledge
>and the instrumental I don´t and we find some things.
>First when we checked the VFO we found a pretty solid clean fundamental
>signal and 2 armonics, one 25db below and the other almost 50db below,
>and the VFO output at the Diode Ring Mixer door was .25 V, so we decided
>( my friend´s suggestion) to put a 200pf capacitor at the base of Q3 and
>as I put to resistances in series (68+330 tom get the value) at the
>emiter of Q3 I put a 1nf capacitor to ground just after the 68ohms
>resistance. Now the second armonic desappeared and the only visible
>armonic is at least 45db lower than the fundamental and the VFO output
>jumped to 0.75v. I added capacitance to c12 but no change.
>And Voila! now to days before I realize that T5 and C12 is a resonant
>circuit but for 2.2Mhz, and I am working with the VFO at 3Mhz, then just
>a change in C12, now 180pf will do the job I hope.I have no way to
>measure that little output voltage, I build a RF probe (with 1N4148) but
>as they take almost .6V of the source the value I am getting is not of a
>great help.I have to be patient and wait until next weekend.
Al, I've kept the information above so that I can try those changes
one of these days when I get the 2N2/40+ back on the bench. Too nice
outside to be fooling with radios inside! :-)
>Jim that same sunday I trayed a 4 pole crystal ladder filter and it
>seems to be worked ok at the spectrum analyzer, but with C=180pf,
With your 4 MHz crystals, it might be just fine. Remember, I did the
modelling with a generic 4 MHz crystal, and some of the parameters may
be off more than a little bit.
> I will
>try your approach then and check it at the analyzer too, at least yours
>will match the impedances before and after.
Yes, that would be in interesting experiment to do. Please let me
know the results if you build the 4 pole Butterworth response filter.
>Sorry but I can´t get the picture yet about the variable Bandwith
>filter, when you vary the capacitor you are changing the filter
>caracteristics, and probably you could start having some ripple, and if
>this is something we are ever trying to avoid in a ladder filter, why
>you use it in the design? (I understand it that way)
Well the inplementation of the variable bandwidth filter that I used
has some compromises, in fact, almost all VBW filters have some compromises
both in terms of ripple in the filter passband, and improper impedance
loading at most settings. The original Jones filter used by TenTec
addressed most of the problems, not all, and considerable more complicated
than the simpler design that I implemented. My version optimized the
filter at its narrowest setting, and the filter gets a bit ragged at
the wider bandwidths. I thought that was a reasonable tradeoff, as
at the wider bandwidth, more signals are being heard, and if there is some
ripple and improper matching, not much is lost.
>It is possible to make the 4 pole filter of variable bandwith? if yes
>How would be the circuit?
Yes, a 4 pole filter can be implemented. To do it correctly, all of the
capacitors have to be varicaps, and those feeding the input and output
have to be isolated from the control voltages. If the design of the
filter also requires different capacitance values for a given bandwidth,
the some form of voltage scaling would be employed. The would be true
for anything other than a Cohn style filter. The 4 pole filter would
require 5 varicap diodes, one on the input and output, and the 3 remaining
to ground on each of the three internal nodes connecting the crystals
together. That configuration still doesn't address the rather large
change in input and output impedances as the bandwidth is narrowed. Some
other scheme is needed to address that design issue, like using FETs
as a variable resistors to properly terminate each end of the filter. Much
of the control could be implemented with a PIC and lots of d/a converters
to set the various voltage levels needed to make everything work optimally.
Download the Elecraft K2 manual to see how N6KR implemented the 5 pole
VBW filter in that rig.
72 and hope the above information helps Al,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Jim
Thanks for your aswers and your offer, but I think that it is not
necessary (your offer) that you send me any material because there are
options left and I will try them first.
I appreciate very much your kindness. Btw: I think that next march I
will be in Canada and it would be very easy to get that parts there and
improve the design.
CU & 73
Al, CX8AT/qrp
>
> Yes, you can use the original PN2222 mute circuit with the audio
> pre-amp.
> It will work, but the receiver will have some "thump" as it makes the
> transistion from receive to transmit and back again. Also, the PN2222
> mute will require you to go back to the original Rx/Tx Switch circuit
> that provides a positive voltage for the Rx Mute.
>
> Tell me, could I reliably send you parts via USPS mail for maybe UPS
> or DHL. If so, I could send you the parts you are having difficulty
> getting. Let me know if that would work, and if so, your mailing
> or shipping address.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
--
--------------------------------------
Al, CX8AT/qrp
http://www.qsl.net/cx8atHello All,
I am trying to align the receiver portion of my 2N22-40+. I have
been looking at the signal from different points in the RX chain.
When I look at the VFO without anything connected to it I see a nice
sinewave and I can hear a good signal on a another receiver. Once
the VFO is connect to T4 the signal looks distorted. The signal at Tx
VFO remains good, so I know the VFO is still puting out a good clean
signal. I see a big signal gain at Q4, so I know that part of the
circuit is working ok. When I tried to adjust TC1 or TC2 I hear a
squeal from the speaker and D8 went out, I suspect it was destroyed
by oscillations of some sort. I'm not real sure what the signal
should look like at each point in the chain. Should I be seeing a
fairly clean signal at all the points as I see on the VFO?
I have taken some pictures of the scope and I could provide those if
someone wants to look at them.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Bob
WB6KWT
|
3070|3069|2004-07-29 21:09:10|Jim Kortge|Re: Receiver Problems|At 05:32 PM 7/27/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello All,
>
>I am trying to align the receiver portion of my 2N22-40+. I have
>been looking at the signal from different points in the RX chain.
>When I look at the VFO without anything connected to it I see a nice
>sinewave and I can hear a good signal on a another receiver. Once
>the VFO is connect to T4 the signal looks distorted.
It should. Once the VFO starts driving the diodes in the Rx DBM, the
amplitude is constrained to the forward conducting voltage of the diodes
in the ring. The signal also begins to show some "ringing" due to
the transformers storing energy and giving it back later on in the
cycle. All normal.
> The signal at Tx
>VFO remains good, so I know the VFO is still puting out a good clean
>signal.
That's correct also. The VFO signal going to the Tx mixer is buffered,
and isn't at a high enough level to cause diode conduction. The conduction
is controlled from the drive of the Tx LO. That signal will also be distorted
if you look at the LO signal when it is connected to the Tx mixer.
> I see a big signal gain at Q4, so I know that part of the
>circuit is working ok. When I tried to adjust TC1 or TC2 I hear a
>squeal from the speaker and D8 went out, I suspect it was destroyed
>by oscillations of some sort.
Sounds to me like the one turn emitter link through the T6 transformer isn't
phased correctly and the RF Amp is oscillating. Try reversing the emitter
turn leads and see what the RF Amp does then. D8 should never go out; it
is the voltage regulator for the base of Q4. What kind of power supply
are you running the rig off of? It should be able to supply 0.5 amps
of current if the rig is going to run correctly, especially on transmit.
> I'm not real sure what the signal
>should look like at each point in the chain. Should I be seeing a
>fairly clean signal at all the points as I see on the VFO?
No. If you disable the VFO by grounding the base of Q1, then you
can check the quality of the signals coming from the antenna and
going through the front-end filters, RF Amp, and into the Rx Mixer.
Once the VFO is driving the mixer, there will be some distortion on
the output of the RF Amp, due to some drive signal feedthrough coming
back out of the mixer. In addition, the output of the mixer is an array
of signals, only one of which will make it through the crystal filter and
on into the IF Amplifier.
>
>
>I have taken some pictures of the scope and I could provide those if
>someone wants to look at them.
I'll go look at them on your web site Bob. Sorry for the delay
in responding; been quite busy again visiting and photographing
osprey nest in our area. Yet another of my hobbies! :-)
>Any thoughts would be appreciated.
See above.....
72 and TTUL,
Jim, K8IQY
Howdy all,
I'm new to the group, and to amateur radio. Whats the best way to
acquire the parts needed for the 2n2-40? I have a fair-sized parts
box, and have acquired some decent bulk buys off of ebay and at an
electronics/surplus shop here in the Largo area.
Is there a way to get a parts kit from one source? I have plenty of
copper-clad and a few nice multi-turn pots. I would like to source
everything else for this project from one place.
I saw by searching the archives that there was a Flying Pigs group
buy a few months back, something like that would be great. I saw
some posts from Mac in Odesa, I'm just down the road in Lutz.
Thanks!
-pete-
|
3072|3072|2004-08-08 09:32:37|AL|VFO--->Diode ring Mixer problem|Hi there
I am having too much trouble because of the low VFO (3Mhz) output that
reach the Diode ring mixer.
Everything seems to be wired Ok as the voltages are the correct ones
(within less than 10%).
The VFO is working OK and its output is almost 3Vpep, but when
connecting to the diode ring mixer it falls to less than a volt.
I think that the impedance of T5 is not matched to the one at the Diode
Ring mixer input.
The signal at the DRM output is very little and I think that it is not
enough for feeding the IF amp.
The Diode ring mixer is working ok, I know that because I changed it for
a
SBL-1 and everything remains the same, the RF amplifier is working Ok,
The audio-pre and the audio amplifier are working ok, but the amplifier
need more work because it is amplifiying signals from 40Hz to 4000Hz (it
would be better, lets say, from 150Hz to 1200Hz)
Q1 PN22222
Q2 & Q3 2N22222 metalic case
I can´t find the error if any, tried less turns at the secondary of T5
with no detectable improvement.
Any clue?
--------------------------------------
Al, CX8AT/qrp
http://www.qsl.net/cx8atSorry
It should be read as :
"........ to the diode ring mixer it falls 25db " The value was taken at
the DRmixer input point (then checked with the SBL-1---same value)
> The VFO is working OK and its output is almost 3Vpep, but when
> connecting to the diode ring mixer it falls to less than a volt.
--------------------------------------
Al, CX8AT/qrp
http://www.qsl.net/cx8atAt 10:32 AM 8/8/2004 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi there
Greetings Al,
>I am having too much trouble because of the low VFO (3Mhz) output that
>reach the Diode ring mixer.
>Everything seems to be wired Ok as the voltages are the correct ones
>(within less than 10%).
>The VFO is working OK and its output is almost 3Vpep,
That's about right if I remember correctly! I think I'm getting
old.......
> but when
>connecting to the diode ring mixer it falls to less than a volt.
It should! When the diodes in the DBM are being driven, the positive
and negative voltage excursions become essentially the forward conduction
voltage for the diode types used. If they are 1N4148 type SI diodes,
that's about 0.7 volts, and for Schottky type diodes, about 0.35 volts.
>I think that the impedance of T5 is not matched to the one at the Diode
>Ring mixer input.
Well the diode ring mixer LO input impedance isn't at all well
defined. That port is very non-linear with the diodes going in
and out of conduction. As I see it, what is important is to provide
enough drive to saturate the diodes in the forward direction, without
supply too much power to burn them out. It sounds like your VFO/mixer
setup is doing just that.
>The signal at the DRM output is very little and I think that it is not
>enough for feeding the IF amp.
Well remember, the output of the mixer that we are interested in is
the RF from the antenna mixed with the VFO signal. The product,
the difference between those two signals is about -7 dB lower than
the RF coming into the mixers RF port. All diode DBM's suffer that
amount of loss. With the gain available in the Post-mixer amp,
the IF amp, and the two audio sections, there should be more
than enough audio to drive a speaker to room filling volume. If
you aren't getting that, then something isn't working correctly.
It is very important to have the Rx LO adjusted correctly to use
the received signal that is centered in the Xtal Filter passband.
A few hundred Hz error in that adjustment can result in the desired
signal being down 30-50 dB or more. The receiver will sound quite
deaf.
>The Diode ring mixer is working ok, I know that because I changed it for
>a
>SBL-1 and everything remains the same, the RF amplifier is working Ok,
That's nice to hear.
>The audio-pre and the audio amplifier are working ok, but the amplifier
>need more work because it is amplifiying signals from 40Hz to 4000Hz (it
>would be better, lets say, from 150Hz to 1200Hz)
Interesting! The computer model and my testing shows the peak
audio response to be at about 700 Hz. I wonder why you are
not seeing that too.
>Q1 PN22222
>Q2 & Q3 2N22222 metalic case
>I can´t find the error if any, tried less turns at the secondary of T5
>with no detectable improvement.
Well that's what I would expect, if indeed the diodes are already
being driven into saturation. Have you read my alignment procedure
on the 2N2-40 Yahoo group and set up the Rx LO according to that
document?
>Any clue?
See above.......
72 and many thanks for the update.
Jim, K8IQY
At 05:05 PM 8/8/2004 -0300, you wrote:
>Sorry
> It should be read as :
>"........ to the diode ring mixer it falls 25db " The value was taken at
>the DRmixer input point (then checked with the SBL-1---same value)
>
> > The VFO is working OK and its output is almost 3Vpep, but when
> > connecting to the diode ring mixer it falls to less than a volt.
>
>--------------------------------------
> Al, CX8AT/qrp
> http://www.qsl.net/cx8at
I knew what you were trying to say! :-)
Jim, K8IQY
Well, I finally figured out what was wrong with my 2N22-40+
receiver. It turned out that I was reading my scope wrong and I was
only getting about 1.5V P-P from the VFO. I asked a friend, a non
ham, to come over and "give me a lesson" using the scope. After I
learned that I was getting only 1.5V, I knew what the problem was, I
needed to adjust the value of C12 to increase the VFO output. I
couldn't find a single value cap that would increase the output. I
ended up using 3 caps to come up with a value of about 399pf +/-
tolerance. The voltage came up to 4V P-P, I reconnect a couple of
points that I had removed during troubleshooting, turned the tuning
pot and .....WHAT WAS THAT, yep it was a weak CW signal, yikes it's
working. After peaking C9, TC1 & 2, I was getting some very nice
signals. Since I had continued building the rig even though the
receiver wasn't operational I lucked out in that the RX LO was tuned
to the right spot for me to hear signals. I touched it up and the
receiver seems to be working just fine. I have the transmitter
portion completed too, so now off to see if it is going to work
without problems.
Jim has been very helpful during this ordeal. He mention several
times that the VFO output has to be at least 3V P-P and I thought it
was. I was looking in other places, even re-wound a couple toriods.
I had wired it all up correctly the first time. I must give credit
to Larry K3PEG and his layout, otherwise I probably wouldn't have
had such good success.
Thanks to all the others who made suggestions. Standby I may need
your help again.
73's
Bob
|
3077|3077|2004-08-24 13:13:20|ve3jkm|Repost: DBM-kind of working...|Hi Jim,
Now got the RxDBM to suppress Lo to 14-15dB. I just rewound another
toroid for the
rx-lo input... Don't know what a good number to look for...
Thx in advance!
John
Jim's reply:
Well commercial mixers get 40-60 dB of LO drive isolation, but that
only happens when they are working into an attunuator of maybe 60
dB to assure there is a really good constant 50 ohm load on all ports.
I'd asy 15 dB is plenty good. I shouldn't overload the post-mixer
amp, and certainly won't get through the xtal filter, so I'd continue
on.
It is definitely mixing but the Lo signal is still the strongest
signal at the DBM output and
it is at least 20dB greater than the required IF at ~5MHz.
Don't worry about it at this time. I think everything is probably
OK. You can go back later on and do some more work on the DBM with
better matching of the diodes etc. if the post-mixer amp can't
handle the existing signal levels.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
3078|3077|2004-08-24 22:49:36|Jim Kortge|Re: Repost: DBM-kind of working...|At 05:12 PM 8/24/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi Jim,
Hi John,
>Now got the RxDBM to suppress Lo to 14-15dB. I just rewound another
>toroid for the
>rx-lo input... Don't know what a good number to look for...
Maybe I'm confused here. Are you talking about the Rx main mixer which
uses two trifilar wound transformers, or the SBM used in the Rx
Product Detector stage. The Prod Detector SBM probably doesn't have
more than 15 dB of LO supression.
>Thx in advance!
You bet......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Jim,
No, you are not confused. It is the one with 2 trifilar toroids.
I haven't come down to the product detector yet :)
Still working on the VFO using the new T50-7 toroid. I think
the tempco has changed now & I have to re-adjust it.
It would be nice if the tempco adjustment can be made by a trimmer
cap (or combinations of trimmer caps)
Cheers & thanks again :)
John
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> At 05:12 PM 8/24/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Hi Jim,
>
> Hi John,
>
>
> >Now got the RxDBM to suppress Lo to 14-15dB. I just rewound another
> >toroid for the
> >rx-lo input... Don't know what a good number to look for...
>
> Maybe I'm confused here. Are you talking about the Rx main mixer
which
> uses two trifilar wound transformers, or the SBM used in the Rx
> Product Detector stage. The Prod Detector SBM probably doesn't have
> more than 15 dB of LO supression.
>
>
> >Thx in advance!
>
> You bet......
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
I have completed my 2n2/40 up to the front end and have a problem
with that. After getting it built I checked the voltages on Q4.
Emitter is 1.47, Base is 1.42 and the Collector is 12.76. When I
put the probe on the collector diode D8 goes out. If I turn the
power off an back on the diode lights up.
Any help will be appreciated.
Tnx,
Ron
|
3081|3080|2004-08-27 19:42:24|Jim Kortge|Re: Help with front end|At 09:19 PM 8/27/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>I have completed my 2n2/40 up to the front end and have a problem
>with that. After getting it built I checked the voltages on Q4.
>Emitter is 1.47, Base is 1.42 and the Collector is 12.76. When I
>put the probe on the collector diode D8 goes out. If I turn the
>power off an back on the diode lights up.
>
>Any help will be appreciated.
>
>Tnx,
>Ron
Ron,
Try reversing the 1 turn lead ends on T6. I'm guessing the
phasing is backwards, and the stage is oscillating like mad,
that's why the emitter voltage is higher than the base. Let
me know what that does.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
> At 09:19 PM 8/27/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>
>
> >I have completed my 2n2/40 up to the front end and have a problem
> >with that. After getting it built I checked the voltages on Q4.
> >Emitter is 1.47, Base is 1.42 and the Collector is 12.76.
When I
> >put the probe on the collector diode D8 goes out. If I turn the
> >power off an back on the diode lights up.
> >
> >Any help will be appreciated.
> >
> >Tnx,
> >Ron
>
> Ron,
>
> Try reversing the 1 turn lead ends on T6. I'm guessing the
> phasing is backwards, and the stage is oscillating like mad,
> that's why the emitter voltage is higher than the base. Let
> me know what that does.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
It works!
Now the E is 1.08v, the B is 1.71v and the C is 11.78v and D8 stays
solidly lit.
Tnx much,
RonI did not see any instructions on grounding the crystal cases on Y1-
Y3. Should the be done?? How about Y4/Y5 also? thanks es 71/72 "rc"
kc5wa
|
3084|3080|2004-08-28 13:46:52|Jim Kortge|Re: Help with front end|At 04:11 PM 8/28/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> > At 09:19 PM 8/27/2004 +0000, you wrote:
> >
> >
> > >I have completed my 2n2/40 up to the front end and have a problem
> > >with that. After getting it built I checked the voltages on Q4.
> > >Emitter is 1.47, Base is 1.42 and the Collector is 12.76.
>When I
> > >put the probe on the collector diode D8 goes out. If I turn the
> > >power off an back on the diode lights up.
> > >
> > >Any help will be appreciated.
> > >
> > >Tnx,
> > >Ron
> >
> > Ron,
> >
> > Try reversing the 1 turn lead ends on T6. I'm guessing the
> > phasing is backwards, and the stage is oscillating like mad,
> > that's why the emitter voltage is higher than the base. Let
> > me know what that does.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
>
>Jim,
>It works!
>Now the E is 1.08v, the B is 1.71v and the C is 11.78v and D8 stays
>solidly lit.
>Tnx much,
>Ron
Ron,
Thanks for the update. All of those voltages look right on the
money now. That's one of the nice things about Norton amplifiers,
when the emitter winding is backward, they don't amplify, they
oscillate like crazy, with the characteristics you observed about
what everyone else has seen.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 04:29 PM 8/28/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>I did not see any instructions on grounding the crystal cases on Y1-
>Y3. Should the be done?? How about Y4/Y5 also? thanks es 71/72 "rc"
>kc5wa
Yes, all of the crystal cases should be grounded, whether it be
part of a crystal filter or LO.
Good question RC.....
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Well I finished up the transmitter portion of the rig and after a
small stumble, wrong cap at C56, I'm getting ~2 watts out. I will
start working towards dressing up the wiring and getting the case
ready for the board. I still need a vernier dial so if anyone has
one they don't need, I would be happy to purchase it. I have an
expermintal Linux server up at
http://www.WB6KWT.COM if you care to
see some pictures of my progress. The server isn't up all the time
because I'm having problems keeping the IP updated.
Bob
WB6KWT
Hi Jim,
Thanks for your help all along!
I have done a few more experiments since to boost eh VFO level:
1) Reducing the number of turns in the secondary of T5:
Results: pretty good boost on the VFO level from 0.25Vpp to 0.4Vpp.
Optimal turn seemed to be at 4.
2) Reducing the value of R9 to 133ohms: (about 20mA bias current)
Results: boosted the level to 0.6Vpp.
I guess I am still far away from the 1.2-1.4Vpp level... but such a
high drive may not be necessary as you had suggested. Anyhow I just
can't get a good VFO output level "out of the box" as reported by
other hams. Well, I guess I can further reduce R9 while keeping Q3
slighly warm :)
Some strange observations:
The VFO output seems to peak at 8V VCC. Increasing VCC further to
12V dropped the VFO output by as much as 15%!
After a few fooling around, the strange
phenomenon seemed to go away with the VCC to the Norton amp
disconnected. O... Maybe the Norton amp's output impedance started to
drop as VCC increases. This output impedance in turns increases the
loading on T3 and hence T4 and hence the VFO. This impedance drop has
been verified to be true with a separate power supply on the Norton
amp.
This being the case, I am wondering if there is an optimal VCC on the
Norton amp to obtain the highest IF output from the mixer.
It has been real fun & thanks for all the help.
73,
John
------------------------------------------------------------
>Hi Jim,
>Things are so far so good with the rig building except for the VFO
>output level.
>It is about 4Vp-p unloaded and I can peak it using a trimmer cap in
>place of C12.
If it peaks in two places as you turn the trimmer 360 degrees then
it is tuning properly. 4 volts p-p is plenty of signal.
>(Actually the trimmer cap goes from Q3-C to GND because I went out
>of space on the PCB)
That's fine. GND is also RF ground.
>Unfortunately the VFO (Lo) level drops to about 0.2-0.3Vp-p when
>connected to T4 and
>the output level is then not affected by the trimmer cap.
It should drop like that, but not quite as much as your are seeing,
unless
your measurement is off. The voltage measured is basically the
forward conduction voltage of the diodes. If they were Schottky
diodes, then 0.2 to 0.3 volts would be about right. With 1N4148 type
diodes more like 0.6 to 0.7 volts. Once the DBM is connected to the
VFO, the tuning is very broad, as the output is being loaded severly
by the DBM, and the output tank Q goes to a very low value.
>So this is my next priority to boost the output level of the VFO...
>up to maybe about 0.7V??
That's probably worth trying, but I'm guessing it will work with
what you have now.
>What level is acceptable for the design? I heard 7dBm somewhere,
Yes, that's sorta the bogie, but not all that critical. If you
are getting the diodes to conduct reasonable well, the mixer should
mix. You may get a few dB less loss with more drive, so maybe
worth a bit more work.
> which is about 0.5Vrms?
Yup!
>I guess I am not there yet...
No, but not that far off either.
>BTW, I have read postings asking the same thing... but I have used
>the "trimmer cap trick"
>already... without success.
You may want to try changing the output winding to fewer turns to
allow
the Q of the tank circuit to increase some and provide more current
drive to the diodes.
>Will try other things including reducing value of R9...
That works too, but don't go to the point of frying the buffer
transistor.
>Thanks once again :)
You bet....TTUL and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Well my 2N2-40+ is finished and seems to be working well. I've only
made a local contact to verify that the signal sounds good etc. It
is putting out about 2 watts, according to my WM2 watt meter. You
can see the rig at
http://www.wb6kwt.com but if you have dial up it
will be slow because there a lots of pictures. Looking forward to
meeting Jim at Pacificon and a chance to see the 2N2-20 proto type.
Bob
WB6KWT
Another 2n2-40 is born! (Actually 2N3904-40)
My sincere thank-you goes to Jim Kortge who has cheerfully
helped me out during the course of the project.
I must say this is the most enjoyable and educational QRP
project I have ever done! In addition, Jim¡¦s dedication &
enthusiastism in helping the homebrewer/QRP community worldwide
must be noted.
Just a quick recap, I had the following hiccups and resolutions
when working on the project: (BTW, all mistakes are of my own :)
1) VFO output level too low (about 0.2-0.3Vp-p)
-fixed by reducing the secondary of T5 to 4 turns & reducing R9 to
133ohms. Output level went up to 0.6Vp-p.
2) Crystal oscillators had start-up problems at 13.8V. (ok at 8V)
-fixed by increasing C48 and C20 to 470pF. Don't know why this
has happened to me... maybe I am using all 2N3904's...
3) Low audio with LM386 replacing all the audio amps after the 20dBv
preamp
-fixed by adding an extra 20-30dBv audio gain stage between the pre-
amp and LM386.
-using a better speaker could have helped.
4) Motorboating and ticking low frequency oscillation with LM386
-fixed by decoupling LM386 VCC with a 2000uF cap & a 24ohms resistor.
-also heavily decouple (220uF!) IF amp & audio pre-amp Vcc.
This heavy decoupling scheme was later found to be an overkill.
My test condition was accidentally too stringent:
The rig was powered by 10 Nicad batteries, 2 of which were later
found to be dead! These 2 dead cells contributed to a higher battery
impedance and hence much more prone to Vcc bouncing and hence
oscillation :(
Anyhow, at least now my rig is still stable with my Nicad batteries
almost running out :)
5) Tx final oscillated (Note I have replaced 3 2N2222 by 1 2SC1306,
emitter grounded)
Also the driver was replaced by 2N3725 for a cooler run.
-fixed by a "43" material ferrite bit in the base of the 2SC1306.
(same used for the Norton amp) Now output power 2.2W.
Well. That's it... May I also say thank-you to fellow hams who have
shared their
valuable experience here & for those who are still working on the
project, I wish you
good luck and have lots of fun :)
I now look forward to the 2n2-20 :)
73,
John, ve3jkm
|
3090|3089|2004-09-17 16:25:25|Larry Przyborowski|Re: Another 2n2-40 is born!|FB John on your completion and successful build of K8IQY's 2n2_40.
You're right when you say that it's a great learning experience.
I'm looking forward to the 2n2_20 too!
73, Larry
|
3091|3091|2004-09-20 17:41:55|kc2igj|receiver power consumption|Hi -
I picked up building my 2n2-40 this August. I have the receiver built
and am now debugging it. Can someone tell me what the current
consumption of the receiver should be ?
Thanks
John KC2IGJ
|
3092|22|2004-09-21 11:11:48|Tim|Toroids|Where is the best place to buy the toroids needed for this project?
Thanks,
Tim
WN8OAB
|
3093|22|2004-09-21 11:31:14|Robert W Conley|Re: Toroids|contact Dieter W8DIZ or Mac AF4PS there are links on
the flying pigs web site
72/71 'RC' KC5WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim" <tklesch@cboss.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 10:11 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Toroids
> Where is the best place to buy the toroids needed for
this project?
>
> Thanks,
> Tim
> WN8OAB
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
At 11:11 AM 9/21/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Where is the best place to buy the toroids needed for this project?
>
>Thanks,
>Tim
>WN8OAB
From Diz, www.kitsandparts.com I think is the URL. He has all
of them, plus varicap diodes, etc.
Jim, K8IQY
www.kitsandparts.com
W8DIZ is the Toroid King!
Quoting Tim <
tklesch@cboss.com>:
> Where is the best place to buy the toroids needed for this project?
>
> Thanks,
> Tim
> WN8OAB
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
At 09:41 PM 9/20/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi -
>I picked up building my 2n2-40 this August. I have the receiver built
>and am now debugging it. Can someone tell me what the current
>consumption of the receiver should be ?
Around 120 ma if I remember correctly. I've done too many
versions of the 2N2/XX rigs now to remember which draws
what, and I'm too lazy and tired to dig it out of the
docs.
72 and have fun,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
> At 09:41 PM 9/20/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Hi -
> >I picked up building my 2n2-40 this August. I have the receiver
built
> >and am now debugging it. Can someone tell me what the current
> >consumption of the receiver should be ?
>
> Around 120 ma if I remember correctly. I've done too many
> versions of the 2N2/XX rigs now to remember which draws
> what, and I'm too lazy and tired to dig it out of the
> docs.
>
> 72 and have fun,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
I'm measuring 122 mA on my circuit so I'm in the ball park.
Thanks for your help.
John, KC2IGJHi Everyone...
Just a reminder to mark your calendars...
The NEBRASKA AREA QRP MEET AND GREET is only 10 days away!!!
When:
October 30, 2004
9:00 am to ?:??
Where:
Community Room
Nebraska Crossing Outlet Mall
Exit 432 (Gretna/Outlet Malls) Interstate 80
Why:
#5 Something to do on Saturday morning.
#4 Avoid making Halloween costumes for kids.
#3 Its better than raking leaves
#2 Its gonna be cold soon!
#1 A chance to get together with other QRPers,
Kit Builders, Home Brewers, Glow Buggers, and CW Nuts
to swap spooky stories and other tall tales.
BRING YOUR LATEST PROJECTS TO SHOW OFF
Free Admission
Coffee and Donuts
Nebraska QRP / Homebrewers Group
No Officers, No Rules, No Treasury, No Dues, No Business,
Just Good Clean QRP Fun.
Directions:
Take I-80 to Exit 432 (Gretna/Outlet Mall) turn north then east into Outlet
Mall.
Park in front of Miskos and follow the signs northwest to the Community
Room. (Flag Poles in front.)
Contacts :
Darrel Swenson, K0AWB
7511 S. 189th St.
Omaha, NE 68136
k0awb@cox.net Darwin Piatt, W9HZC
10532 Larimore Circle
Omaha, NE 68134
w9hzc@cox.net Please forward this e-mail to anyone you think might be interested.
See You Saturday Morning October 30th, 2004
If you are planning a group buy for this rig, I would like to be
included. Please contact me with your information.
Thanks,
Bob
WB6KWT
|
3100|3099|2004-10-21 15:23:48|Doug Jones|Re: 2N2-20|Bob,
Are you volunteering to coordinate it, or are you just wanting to be
included in the buy?
Just wondering,
Doug
N6LMX
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004, dvcamvideo2004 wrote:
>
>
> If you are planning a group buy for this rig, I would like to be
> included. Please contact me with your information.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> WB6KWT
Doug,
I was hoping to be included in the buy.
Bob
Doug Jones <
n6lmx@arrl.net> wrote:
Bob,
Are you volunteering to coordinate it, or are you just wanting to be
included in the buy?
Just wondering,
Doug
N6LMX
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004, dvcamvideo2004 wrote:
>
>
> If you are planning a group buy for this rig, I would like to be
> included. Please contact me with your information.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> WB6KWT
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I did the Flying Pig Group Buy for the 40m version. There is just NO WAY I
can take this project on right now.
However, as Jim makes the parts list available, it's pretty dog-gone easy
to do a "Project buy" on the Mouser web site, and supplement more
specialized parts from Kits and Parts (toroids, varactors), Hosfelt
(varactors and hard-to-find things.) etc. After you enter the part
numbers, you just change the number of "kits" to order. I found it helpful
to have other sets of eyes to proof-read. (And, believe me, mistakes still
occur.) Anyone who has attempted this will tell you... ordering is the
easy part. It's sorting, bagging and mailing that drives you (me)
nuts. The other thing is costs. The group buy saves more in the hassle of
FINDING things than it does price. You have to really bulk buy to get
significant breaks on this stuff. The Flying Pigs donated a significant
number of the parts and I covered shipping, so the 40 meter "kit" we did
was a STEAL, IMHO.
I really want to build the 20 meter version and will gladly pay for parts
and shipping for the opportunity NOT to have to sort and bag - grin. Any
of you with some time can do this, and Jim K8IQY is one of the most
encouraging, supportive people I've ever dealt with!
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
At 08:54 AM 10/22/2004, you wrote:
>Doug,
>
>I was hoping to be included in the buy.
>
>Bob
>
>Doug Jones <n6lmx@arrl.net> wrote:
>Bob,
> Are you volunteering to coordinate it, or are you just wanting to be
>included in the buy?
>
>Just wondering,
>Doug
>N6LMX
>
>On Thu, 21 Oct 2004, dvcamvideo2004 wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > If you are planning a group buy for this rig, I would like to be
> > included. Please contact me with your information.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bob
> > WB6KWT
>
>Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>---------------------------------
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>
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><http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
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>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Mac,
I know what you mean about being the person on the hook for purchasing. I guess I'll see what I can do with the Mouser site, but I must be honest, there are so many items and choices that it seems impossible to get the correct part the first time.
I have the CD from Pacificon 2004 and the parts list is on that. Wish me luck.
Bob
WB6KWT
Mac Steinmeyer <
macnohere@fpqrp.com> wrote:
I did the Flying Pig Group Buy for the 40m version. There is just NO WAY I
can take this project on right now.
However, as Jim makes the parts list available, it's pretty dog-gone easy
to do a "Project buy" on the Mouser web site, and supplement more
specialized parts from Kits and Parts (toroids, varactors), Hosfelt
(varactors and hard-to-find things.) etc. After you enter the part
numbers, you just change the number of "kits" to order. I found it helpful
to have other sets of eyes to proof-read. (And, believe me, mistakes still
occur.) Anyone who has attempted this will tell you... ordering is the
easy part. It's sorting, bagging and mailing that drives you (me)
nuts. The other thing is costs. The group buy saves more in the hassle of
FINDING things than it does price. You have to really bulk buy to get
significant breaks on this stuff. The Flying Pigs donated a significant
number of the parts and I covered shipping, so the 40 meter "kit" we did
was a STEAL, IMHO.
I really want to build the 20 meter version and will gladly pay for parts
and shipping for the opportunity NOT to have to sort and bag - grin. Any
of you with some time can do this, and Jim K8IQY is one of the most
encouraging, supportive people I've ever dealt with!
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
At 08:54 AM 10/22/2004, you wrote:
>Doug,
>
>I was hoping to be included in the buy.
>
>Bob
>
>Doug Jones <n6lmx@arrl.net> wrote:
>Bob,
> Are you volunteering to coordinate it, or are you just wanting to be
>included in the buy?
>
>Just wondering,
>Doug
>N6LMX
>
>On Thu, 21 Oct 2004, dvcamvideo2004 wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > If you are planning a group buy for this rig, I would like to be
> > included. Please contact me with your information.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bob
> > WB6KWT
>
>Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
><http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
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>vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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> *
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Wonderful! Go for it!
Do you mean that you are going to coordinate a group buy -- or purchace one "kit" for yourself? If you are doing a group buy purchase, I'l like in! You might want to compare the 40 meter version list with Mouser Part numbers to get within the "family" of parts choise, and I'm sure Jim K. could advise on the significant changes he implemented. I posted the list on my site: www.qsl.net/af4ps and click the 2n240 "feature" at the top left.
If I can help in any way -- aside from sorting ,bagging, and mailing (grin) yell!
-MAC-
AF4PS
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Miller
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2-20
Hi Mac,
I know what you mean about being the person on the hook for purchasing. I guess I'll see what I can do with the Mouser site, but I must be honest, there are so many items and choices that it seems impossible to get the correct part the first time.
I have the CD from Pacificon 2004 and the parts list is on that. Wish me luck.
Bob
WB6KWT
Mac Steinmeyer <macnohere@fpqrp.com> wrote:
I did the Flying Pig Group Buy for the 40m version. There is just NO WAY I
can take this project on right now.
However, as Jim makes the parts list available, it's pretty dog-gone easy
to do a "Project buy" on the Mouser web site, and supplement more
specialized parts from Kits and Parts (toroids, varactors), Hosfelt
(varactors and hard-to-find things.) etc. After you enter the part
numbers, you just change the number of "kits" to order. I found it helpful
to have other sets of eyes to proof-read. (And, believe me, mistakes still
occur.) Anyone who has attempted this will tell you... ordering is the
easy part. It's sorting, bagging and mailing that drives you (me)
nuts. The other thing is costs. The group buy saves more in the hassle of
FINDING things than it does price. You have to really bulk buy to get
significant breaks on this stuff. The Flying Pigs donated a significant
number of the parts and I covered shipping, so the 40 meter "kit" we did
was a STEAL, IMHO.
I really want to build the 20 meter version and will gladly pay for parts
and shipping for the opportunity NOT to have to sort and bag - grin. Any
of you with some time can do this, and Jim K8IQY is one of the most
encouraging, supportive people I've ever dealt with!
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
At 08:54 AM 10/22/2004, you wrote:
>Doug,
>
>I was hoping to be included in the buy.
>
>Bob
>
>Doug Jones <n6lmx@arrl.net> wrote:
>Bob,
> Are you volunteering to coordinate it, or are you just wanting to be
>included in the buy?
>
>Just wondering,
>Doug
>N6LMX
>
>On Thu, 21 Oct 2004, dvcamvideo2004 wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > If you are planning a group buy for this rig, I would like to be
> > included. Please contact me with your information.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bob
> > WB6KWT
>
>Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
><http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
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>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
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>
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>vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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>click here
>
>[]
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>
>
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> *
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
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c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
ARGH! Forget to spell-check. Sorry! If you do a group buy, I'D like in!
-MAC-
AF4PS
----- Original Message -----
From: Mac Steinmeyer
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2-20
Wonderful! Go for it!
Do you mean that you are going to coordinate a group buy -- or purchace one "kit" for yourself? If you are doing a group buy purchase, I'l like in! You might want to compare the 40 meter version list with Mouser Part numbers to get within the "family" of parts choise, and I'm sure Jim K. could advise on the significant changes he implemented. I posted the list on my site: www.qsl.net/af4ps and click the 2n240 "feature" at the top left.
If I can help in any way -- aside from sorting ,bagging, and mailing (grin) yell!
-MAC-
AF4PS
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Miller
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2-20
Hi Mac,
I know what you mean about being the person on the hook for purchasing. I guess I'll see what I can do with the Mouser site, but I must be honest, there are so many items and choices that it seems impossible to get the correct part the first time.
I have the CD from Pacificon 2004 and the parts list is on that. Wish me luck.
Bob
WB6KWT
Mac Steinmeyer <macnohere@fpqrp.com> wrote:
I did the Flying Pig Group Buy for the 40m version. There is just NO WAY I
can take this project on right now.
However, as Jim makes the parts list available, it's pretty dog-gone easy
to do a "Project buy" on the Mouser web site, and supplement more
specialized parts from Kits and Parts (toroids, varactors), Hosfelt
(varactors and hard-to-find things.) etc. After you enter the part
numbers, you just change the number of "kits" to order. I found it helpful
to have other sets of eyes to proof-read. (And, believe me, mistakes still
occur.) Anyone who has attempted this will tell you... ordering is the
easy part. It's sorting, bagging and mailing that drives you (me)
nuts. The other thing is costs. The group buy saves more in the hassle of
FINDING things than it does price. You have to really bulk buy to get
significant breaks on this stuff. The Flying Pigs donated a significant
number of the parts and I covered shipping, so the 40 meter "kit" we did
was a STEAL, IMHO.
I really want to build the 20 meter version and will gladly pay for parts
and shipping for the opportunity NOT to have to sort and bag - grin. Any
of you with some time can do this, and Jim K8IQY is one of the most
encouraging, supportive people I've ever dealt with!
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
At 08:54 AM 10/22/2004, you wrote:
>Doug,
>
>I was hoping to be included in the buy.
>
>Bob
>
>Doug Jones <n6lmx@arrl.net> wrote:
>Bob,
> Are you volunteering to coordinate it, or are you just wanting to be
>included in the buy?
>
>Just wondering,
>Doug
>N6LMX
>
>On Thu, 21 Oct 2004, dvcamvideo2004 wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > If you are planning a group buy for this rig, I would like to be
> > included. Please contact me with your information.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bob
> > WB6KWT
>
>Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
><http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/
>
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>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Do you Yahoo!?
>vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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><http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129m3m69s/M=294855.5468653.6549235.3001176/D=groups/S=1705063108:HM/EXP=1098536077/A=2376776/R=0/SIG=11ldm1jvc/*http://promotions.yahoo.com/ydomains2004/index.html>
>click here
>
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>
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>On Thu, 21 Oct 2004, dvcamvideo2004 wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > If you are planning a group buy for this rig, I would like to be
> > included. Please contact me with your information.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bob
> > WB6KWT
Hi,
I'm Kenyon, and I have zero interest in building the 20-meter version.
My 2N2-40 (not for sale) is still in a zillion pieces in a box in the
closet waiting it's turn. (I'm almost done with the 60-m kit for my K2,
with DSP and RS-232 to go.)
I did give Mac a (small, in my estimate) hand with the 40-meter group
buy, and share a small part of his pain.
I gotta say, I've been looking hard at the 2N2-6 6m transverter, and
trying to decide if I can find the time to put one of those together.
It looked like nearly all parts except toroids/wire/copper-clad from
Mouser would run a little over $50 before shipping.
No, I'm not volunteering.
I am looking for info, as Google wasn't much help on folks' reports on
the building process, nor was it much help on the finished product. Was
there a Compendium CD or something like it?
I'll be happy to share the Mouser part list I started if anybody's
interested. It borrowed heavily from Mac's list for the 2N2-40.
Haven't had it proofed, so no warranty is implied.
Thanks for the bandwidth,
Kenyon Cox
WD8INS
Belpre, OH
I have been looking at the 5 watt mod for SMK-1 for some time, and it
seems like it should work in the 2N2/40 - my question is, could I
leave the output filter as is, or do I need to make some changes?
The article on the SMK mod is here:
http://www.amqrp.org/kits/smk1/smk-1_5w.html Thanks,
Del, AD6WE
Jim
Will you be posting the info on the 2N2/40 on this site sometime
soon??? I was unable to attend Pacificcon and would like to take the
plung and build the companion to my 2N240
Steve
|
3109|3109|2004-11-06 11:12:23|Robert Conley|Chuck Adama K7QO|So what has happened to K7QO's web site. I was following a couple of
projects that Chuck was working on and his web site just disappeared.
Is Chuck okay? HUH?
-
|
3110|3109|2004-11-06 18:50:32|Bart W0IIT|Re: Chuck Adama K7QO|I couldn't access it either?? Have not heard from Chuck on the qrp-l for a very long time. I understood that he was big into tournament poker these days. As much as he loved the CW SS test, can't help but think he is in there pounding away right now!!
cu, Bart
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3111|3111|2004-11-07 09:19:37|Jean Jibouleau|New to the group ... Am I late?|Hello everyone,
I was cleaning the basement lately and I found my 2n2-40 projects (well just the beginning of it) at the botton of some drawer.
I had begin this project about 4 years ago and never had time to complete it.
Since that time I got retired and now have plenty of time, and winter is soo long here in Canada
Soo I jump in this group and download every files hat could be of some help to complete the project.
Tks for beeing there
73 and happy day de Jean (VE2GHI)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3112|3111|2004-11-07 10:35:36|Lee Mairs|Re: New to the group ... Am I late?|Jean -
I don't think there is an organized group build underway at this time;
however, Jim Kortege and several others monitor this list and are always
willing to help talk you thru the troublesome spots. Just go fer it!
My major advice is to buy some magnet wire in different colors. It will
greatly ease winding some of the tri-filar toroids,
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Jibouleau" <jiboulj@globetrotter.net>
To: "2n2-40" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 8:32 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] New to the group ... Am I late?
>
> Hello everyone,
> I was cleaning the basement lately and I found my 2n2-40 projects (well
> just the beginning of it) at the botton of some drawer.
> I had begin this project about 4 years ago and never had time to complete
> it.
> Since that time I got retired and now have plenty of time, and winter is
> soo long here in Canada
> Soo I jump in this group and download every files hat could be of some
> help to complete the project.
>
> Tks for beeing there
> 73 and happy day de Jean (VE2GHI)
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Steve White wrote:
>
>
>
> Jim
>
> Will you be posting the info on the 2N2/40 on this site sometime
> soon??? I was unable to attend Pacificcon and would like to take the
> plung and build the companion to my 2N240
>
> Steve
Steve,
Hopefully, you've seen the announcement on qrp-l about the
2N2/20 info. It's up on www.qsl.net/k8iqy now, but just
the Pacificon presentation. I hope to be adding more information
later on when the dust settles a bit here.
72 and have fun,
Jim, K8IQY
OK, now that work has settled down a whole lot - long story there -
I am back ready to build stuff again! I suppose that I could be
convinced to match up the xtals again - grin...
73
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
3115|3115|2004-11-14 23:04:20|Jean Jibouleau|New to the group|Hello everyone,
My 2N2/40 is back on the workbench. It is still too soon to know if this
baby will come to life. We will see.
I am still to the point to regoup every documentation I could find on It.
The designer of this rig, K8IQY, does not have information of it in his web
site.
I have the original QRPp and some picture of the layout.
I am specialy interested in any update or special note that were publish
AFTER the original article.
If you have something that could help, your welcome
Happy day
73 de jean (VE2GHI)
|
3116|3115|2004-11-15 06:41:32|John Wagner|Re: New to the group|Bonjour Jean,
You should look at the Yahoo website for this group at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/ . You will find updated
schematics and parts lists in the file area as well as numerous
troubleshooting files.
73 es GL building!
John, N1QO
On Sun, 14 Nov 2004 19:50:47 -0500, Jean Jibouleau
<
jiboulj@globetrotter.net> wrote:
>
> Hello everyone,
> My 2N2/40 is back on the workbench. It is still too soon to know if this
> baby will come to life. We will see.
> I am still to the point to regoup every documentation I could find on It.
> The designer of this rig, K8IQY, does not have information of it in his web
> site.
> I have the original QRPp and some picture of the layout.
> I am specialy interested in any update or special note that were publish
> AFTER the original article.
> If you have something that could help, your welcome
>
> Happy day
> 73 de jean (VE2GHI)
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
--
John Wagner
john@wagner-usa.netJean,
Would a copy of the original booklet help you?
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Jibouleau" <jiboulj@globetrotter.net>
To: "2n2-40" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2004 6:50 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] New to the group
>
> Hello everyone,
> My 2N2/40 is back on the workbench. It is still too soon to know if this
> baby will come to life. We will see.
> I am still to the point to regoup every documentation I could find on It.
> The designer of this rig, K8IQY, does not have information of it in his
> web
> site.
> I have the original QRPp and some picture of the layout.
> I am specialy interested in any update or special note that were publish
> AFTER the original article.
> If you have something that could help, your welcome
>
> Happy day
> 73 de jean (VE2GHI)
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Ron,
There was a booklet?
Doug
N6LMX
On Mon, 15 Nov 2004, Ron White wrote:
>
> Jean,
> Would a copy of the original booklet help you?
> Ron
Dennis,
What process do you use to match crystals?
Bob
WB6KWT
Dennis <
wb0wao@hotmail.com> wrote:
OK, now that work has settled down a whole lot - long story there -
I am back ready to build stuff again! I suppose that I could be
convinced to match up the xtals again - grin...
73
Dennis - WB0WAO
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jean Jibouleau wrote:
> Hello everyone,
Greetings again Jean,
> My 2N2/40 is back on the workbench. It is still too soon to know if this
> baby will come to life.
Oh, it will if you want it too. There are
many on this list who can attest to that fact.
We will see.
I'm betting it will work eventually, especially
if you build it correctly.
> I am still to the point to regoup every documentation I could find on It.
> The designer of this rig, K8IQY, does not have information of it in his web
> site.
Not anymore, but all of the most current and best information
is posted on the Yahoo 2n2-40 group site.
> I have the original QRPp and some picture of the layout.
Don't follow that in great detail, since the design has
changed some. Use that info as a guide, and look at
the pictures on Yahoo that I and others have posted.
Pay particular attention to the K3PEG information. Larry
had built the penultimate 2N2/40+, and all of the docs
for his rig are there too.
> I am specialy interested in any update or special note that were publish
> AFTER the original article.
All on the 2n2-40 web site.
72 and have fun,
Jim, K8IQY
Doug Jones wrote:
> Ron,
> There was a booklet?
>
> Doug
> N6LMX
>
> On Mon, 15 Nov 2004, Ron White wrote:
>
>
>>Jean,
>>Would a copy of the original booklet help you?
>>Ron
I think Jean already has the QRPp 1998 Winter
issue where the original 2N2/40 design was
published.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
Are Larry's diagrams based on the 2n2-40+ schmatics in the folder owned
by you? I'm assuming so...
Doug
N6LMX
On Mon, 15 Nov 2004, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> Don't follow that in great detail, since the design has
> changed some. Use that info as a guide, and look at
> the pictures on Yahoo that I and others have posted.
> Pay particular attention to the K3PEG information. Larry
> had built the penultimate 2N2/40+, and all of the docs
> for his rig are there too.
I assume we will change the subject to the subject eventually? :-)
I have most of the capacitors and most of the resistors collected for my
2N2-20 rig. Also a few of the transistors. I am slowly getting there.
73, Jim
Jim Larsen
http://www.CSTAlaska.com/ http://www.AL7FS.us/ Anchorage, Alaska
Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> Doug Jones wrote:
>
>>Ron,
>> There was a booklet?
>>
>>Doug
>>N6LMX
>>
>>On Mon, 15 Nov 2004, Ron White wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Jean,
>>>Would a copy of the original booklet help you?
>>>Ron
>
>
> I think Jean already has the QRPp 1998 Winter
> issue where the original 2N2/40 design was
> published.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
--
Doug Jones wrote:
> Jim,
Hi Doug,
> Are Larry's diagrams based on the 2n2-40+ schmatics in the folder owned
> by you? I'm assuming so...
Yes, Larry built the rig from the 2N2/40+ diagrams that were posted
on the Yahoo site, and went from there with his PowerPoint approach.
Great work IMHO, but then he had a good teacher! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim Larsen - AL7FS wrote:
> I assume we will change the subject to the subject eventually? :-)
>
> I have most of the capacitors and most of the resistors collected for my
> 2N2-20 rig. Also a few of the transistors. I am slowly getting there.
Hi Jim,
Good to hear from you. Thanks for putting up the nice
pictures from Pacificon, and yes, I did change the
subject line. I'm expecting one of the first 2N2/20s
to be heard will be yours. :-)
72 and keep warm,
Jim, K8IQY
I can second Jim's comments about Larry's layout for the 2N2-40+. I used it and found it to be a great help. I received my order from Hosfelt today with the varicaps, silver mica caps and some 11mhz crystals for the 2N2-20. I'm waiting for Jim to post his crystal matching procedures to his new website so I can get that part done.
Jim, I could use some help with the different type of caps, can you post which are NP0, poly etc, some I know others I have no idea.
BTW your new site is much faster than the old one, but of course you already knew that, DUH.
Back to the Mouser site, got to get those parts on order before AL7FS beats me to the finish line.
Bob
WB6KWT
Jim Kortge <
jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
Doug Jones wrote:
> Jim,
Hi Doug,
> Are Larry's diagrams based on the 2n2-40+ schmatics in the folder owned
> by you? I'm assuming so...
Yes, Larry built the rig from the 2N2/40+ diagrams that were posted
on the Yahoo site, and went from there with his PowerPoint approach.
Great work IMHO, but then he had a good teacher! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ahhhh, Bob, I could never keep up with you. I am starting a new business up
here and will not work real hard on things ham radio for a while. Also, I am
lazy and I am waiting for Darrel Swenson - K0AWB to post his sanitized list
with all the Mouser and Digikey part numbers. I also wondered about the
different type of caps and was going to look through the Pacificon
presentation to try to figure that out. Having Jim K. (and yes, Jim, I can
pronounce your last name now...) post the specifics will surely help.
Good luck.
73, Jim
Jim Larsen
http://www.CSTAlaska.com/ http://www.AL7FS.us/ Anchorage, Alaska
Bob Miller wrote:
got to get those parts on order before AL7FS beats me to the finish line.
> Bob> WB6KWT
Bob Miller wrote:
> I can second Jim's comments about Larry's layout for the 2N2-40+.
I used it and found it to be a great help. I received my order
from Hosfelt today with the varicaps, silver mica caps and some
11mhz crystals for the 2N2-20. I'm waiting for Jim to post his crystal
matching procedures to his new website so I can get that part done.
Bob et.al.,
The PVXO information is now up on the web site, along with a link
to the Atlanticon 2002 paper that had the "how to" information
in it. So that job is done and off the list! :-)
>
> Jim, I could use some help with the different type of caps,
can you post which are NP0, poly etc, some I know others I have no idea.
Yes, I'll start working on the 2N2/20 info next. In general, all of
the capacitors that are in frequency determining and filter circuits
are NPO with the exception of the one polystyrene cap in the VFO
that is in parallel with an NPO. Also in my VFO, I've used a pair
of 1000 pF polyethylene (mylar) caps as I've had really good luck
using those in the base-emitter and emitter-ground part of the circuit.
All other caps are non-critical as they are for coupling and bypassing
and just about anything will work as long as it doesn't have a lot of
internal inductance. All of the ceramic disc and monolithic caps fit
the criteria, as do silver mica, but I'd save those high Q babies for
output filters, to keep the losses down.
>
> BTW your new site is much faster than the old one,
but of course you already knew that, DUH.
Well I wasn't sure at first, but most of the feedback that
I'm getting says that the new site is markedly faster than
the old. I'm wondering though how many links I've broken
moving to the new URL. That's the price of progress I
guess.
>
> Back to the Mouser site, got to get those parts on order
before AL7FS beats me to the finish line.
Yes, he has a head start in owning one of the very few
crystal filter sets that I put together. Since he was
the driving force behind creating the 2N2/20 design,
I thought he deserved a set. I also let me put some
serious pressure on him to build the rig! :-)
That part I really like......
>
> Bob
> WB6KWT
72 and have fun building Bob, and everyone else too,
Jim, K8IQY
PS, the old 2N2/15 info is also up on the new site,
but not completely organized as I want it in the final
version.
I use the K8IQY Precision VXO (was kitted by NJQRP but they are out),
a crystal test fixture, freq counter and HP AC Voltmeter. The
process is described in great detail in #2 issue of the AMQRP
Homebrewer (much better than I can describe!). You will need a bunch
of xtals to make up matched sets however - for the FP group buy, I
was sent (I think) a hundred xtals and was able to match up 14 or so
sets of 3 xtals plus 2 LO xtals. It is a somewhat involved process,
more time consuming than anything else - but it was fun! Like I
said, if Mac oinks real nice, I would do it again....LOL
72/73
Dennis - WB0WAO
|
3130|3099|2004-11-18 08:32:31|Bob Miller|Re: Xtal Matching.|Thanks Dennis, I found an unbuilt PVXO and it arrived a couple of weeks ago. I haven't started building it yet, two other projects already started, so need to finished those up. Jim put the procedures with all the circuit diagrams on his new site. My first read through the material has me wondering if I'm up to the task, time will tell.
Thanks again for the info.
Bob
WB6KWT
Dennis <
wb0wao@hotmail.com> wrote:
I use the K8IQY Precision VXO (was kitted by NJQRP but they are out),
a crystal test fixture, freq counter and HP AC Voltmeter. The
process is described in great detail in #2 issue of the AMQRP
Homebrewer (much better than I can describe!). You will need a bunch
of xtals to make up matched sets however - for the FP group buy, I
was sent (I think) a hundred xtals and was able to match up 14 or so
sets of 3 xtals plus 2 LO xtals. It is a somewhat involved process,
more time consuming than anything else - but it was fun! Like I
said, if Mac oinks real nice, I would do it again....LOL
72/73
Dennis - WB0WAO
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I promised Doug W7RDP and Jim KL7FS a copy of my parts list and sources for
the 2N2-20. I decided to share it with the entire list. My complete list
is in the Excel attachment. This e-mail contains a bunch of my notes, and a
text list at the end for 'cut and paste' into Mouser's Project Manager.
My list is based on Jim K8IQY's PacifiCon Presentation and a series of
e-mails I traded with Jim.
A couple of notes to start with:
1. This list hasn't been proof read by anyone but me at this point. A
couple of errors have probably escaped my otherwise excellent vision and
memory :)
2. I am just starting to build my 2N2-20. There are still a couple of
parts on back-order. There may be some changes as I build, based on
back-order availability and what fits on the board.
I ordered most of my parts from Mouser. I used the following 6 vendors:
1. I ordered 4 pieces of 6"x7" copper clad circuit board from The
Electronic Goldmine. (I'm going to build a case from the other 3 pieces.)
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/products.asp?dept=1034 2. The toroids are available from Diz at Parts&Kits. Diz sells toroids
in quantities of 25. Jim was going to encourage Diz to do a 2N2/20 toroid
kit. Otherwise this is a good opportunity to stock up you toroid
collection. Everything but the BN2402s are in a NorCal toroid kit also.
(1) T50-7 25 for $6.00
(1) T37-2 25 for $5.00
(5) T37-6 25 for $5.00
(5) FT37-43 25 for $5.00
(5) FT37-61 25 for $5.00
(2) BN2402 25 for $6.00
http://partsandkits.com/toroids.asp 3. All but 2 of the semi-conductors are available from either Mouser or
Hosfelt. Hosfelt has a $5.00 minimum order (for credit card payment) and
adds $1.00 plus actual shipping. I ordered 4 sets (spares!), but you could
order 3 each of the varactor tuning diodes and 2x the rest to get to $5.14.
(Or get together with a buddy and split an order.) I ordered these from
Hosfelt:
1 MV1662 .35 .35
1 MV209 .35 .35
1 2N2907 .25 .25
1 2N2222A .25 .25
14 PN2222 .06 .84
3 25-325 LED .06 .18
TOTAL 2.22 (An appropriate total!)
http://www.hosfelt.com/ 4. The 2SC2166 is only $1.55 ($1.45/10+) from Consolidated Electronics,
but they have a $25.00 minimum order (plus $5.00 handling and actual
shipping cost.) The NTE replacement from Mouser is $10.40. Jim K8IQY says
a 2SC1969 or 2SC208 will also work, but I haven't found them any cheaper. I
would like more than one, but I don't need 18. This may be a good group buy
opportunity.
http://www.ceitron.com/ 5. The ADE-1 mixers are only available from MiniCircuits. MiniCircuits
seems to only want to sell these in LARGE quantities. They quoted $14.95
each for quantities of 2. ($29.90) The price drops to $10.94 each if you buy
5. You have to buy at least 25 to get a decent price - $2.49 each.
(50=$2.29, 100=$1.99, 500=$1.89) (Jim K8IQY says MiniCircuits SCM-1 will
also work, they quoted him $4.25 each for 1-9 units.) Again I would like
more than 2, but I don't need 25. This looks like another good group buy
opportunity.
http://www.minicircuits.com/ 6. The remaining parts are available from Mouser. I used NPO ceramic
caps where the value was specified in picofarads. I used the cheapest
ceramic or monolithic cap I could find for values from .001uf to 1uf. I
used the cheapest aluminum electrolytics I could find for 1uf and above. On
Jim's advice, I used the cheapest iron core molded inductors I could find
where toroids were not specified. I used the KOA SPEER 1/4 watt 5%
resistors (because they can be ordered in quantities of 1.)
You may want to use your favorite trimmer caps, trimmer pots, control pots,
fuse holders, and connectors. I have included the ones I used if you are
interested.
The easiest way to order parts from Mouser is to go to www.mouser.com, open
the project manager, log-in (or sign up if this is your first time,) select
the B.O.M. import tool, and paste the list at the bottom of this e-mail into
the space provided. Select submit and the Project Manager will import
everything into an order form.
The Project Manager will also let you know if I screwed up any numbers, how
much the parts cost, and if anything is on back-order. Check your parts
bins, junk boxes, NorCal capacitor/resistor kits, and eliminate anything you
have. (This is probably easier to do after you import into the B.O.M.)
You will get an error on the crystals wanting you to order 100. 8 to 10 is
a pretty small quantity for matching. This is another great group buy
opportunity. If you can't find someone to split the crystals with, Jim says
the 559-FOX111 part number should work and is available in smaller
quantities.
Finally submit the order.
Other notes:
C59&C80 are actually 2 caps each, a 30pf and a 33pf.
The winding data for L5 is on the schematic, but not Jim's BOM.
Jim says L4 should be an iron core molded choke also (even though the
schematic does not show the iron core.)
There are TWO POT1s, one in the Rx RF Gain and one in the Optional RIT, only
ONE is listed on the BOM. They are the same value and part number, just
order 2.
3 or 4 parts showed up on back-order when I ordered, but were all available
when I checked today. There were a couple of new back-orders today. This
obviously changes day to day.
Good luck building your 2N2/20. PLEASE let me know if you find any errors
on my parts list of have any suggestions for better parts numbers and/or
parts sources.
72... Darrel Swenson... K0AWB
140-50N5-2R2D 1
140-50N5-300J 3
140-50N5-330J 3
140-50N5-470J 3
140-50N2-560J 4
140-50N2-820J 2
140-50N5-101J 4
140-50N5-121J 2
140-50N5-151J 2
140-50N5-181J 1
140-50N5-221J 7
581-SR151A471J 1
581-SR151A681J 6
581-SR211A102J 2
80-C320C122J2G 2
80-C320C332J1G 1
75-1C10X7R102K050B 1
75-1C10X7R103K050B 4
75-1C10Z5U104M050B 37
75-1C10Z5U224M050B 1
75-517D50V1 2
75-517D50V3.3 1
75-517D50V4.7 1
75-517D50V10 1
75-517D50V47 1
75-517D50V100 2
75-517D50V470 1
43LQ396 2
43LQ566 1
43LQ826 2
43LQ104 1
43LS103 1
42TM003 1
660-CF1/4L6R8J 2
660-CF1/4L100J 4
660-CF1/4L150J 1
660-CF1/4L160J 2
660-CF1/4L270J 8
660-CF1/4L330J 1
660-CF1/4L430J 1
660-CF1/4L470J 1
291-51 10
660-CF1/4L560J 3
660-CF1/4L680J 1
660-CF1/4L910J 1
660-CF1/4L101J 5
660-CF1/4L121J 1
660-CF1/4L131J 1
660-MF1/4CL1500F 2
660-CF1/4L181J 1
660-CF1/4L221J 2
660-MF1/4CL2740F 3
660-CF1/4L821J 2
660-CF1/4L102J 5
660-CF1/4L152J 3
660-CF1/4L182J 1
660-CF1/4L222J 2
660-CF1/4L272J 3
660-CF1/4L332J 3
660-CF1/4L392J 1
660-CF1/4L432J 1
660-CF1/4L472J 4
660-CF1/4L562J 1
660-CF1/4L103J 6
660-CF1/4L153J 2
660-CF1/4L203J 1
660-CF1/4L273J 2
660-CF1/4L333J 1
660-CF1/4L473J 5
660-CF1/4L105J 1
660-CF1/4L225J 1
583-1N4004-B 1
78-1N4148 8
512-1N4735A 1
512-1N4744A 1
625-1N5711 6
625-2N4124 1
512-2N7000 1
512-J176 1
512-MPSH10 2
520-HCA1100-S 10
659-GKG50015 9
659-GKG30015 1
72-T7RYA-50 1
31VJ301 2
594-53611203 1
31XP401 1
5768-97003 1
5768-53009 1
163-4304 1
571-2277542 1
161-3508 2
161-3402 4
253-4020 1
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Darrel Swenson wrote:
> I promised Doug W7RDP and Jim KL7FS a copy of my parts list and sources for
> the 2N2-20. I decided to share it with the entire list. My complete list
> is in the Excel attachment. This e-mail contains a bunch of my notes, and a
> text list at the end for 'cut and paste' into Mouser's Project Manager.
>
> My list is based on Jim K8IQY's PacifiCon Presentation and a series of
> e-mails I traded with Jim.
>
> A couple of notes to start with:
>
> 1. This list hasn't been proof read by anyone but me at this point. A
> couple of errors have probably escaped my otherwise excellent vision and
> memory :)
>
> 2. I am just starting to build my 2N2-20. There are still a couple of
> parts on back-order. There may be some changes as I build, based on
> back-order availability and what fits on the board.
>
> I ordered most of my parts from Mouser. I used the following 6 vendors:
>
> 1. I ordered 4 pieces of 6"x7" copper clad circuit board from The
> Electronic Goldmine. (I'm going to build a case from the other 3 pieces.)
> http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/products.asp?dept=1034
>
> 2. The toroids are available from Diz at Parts&Kits. Diz sells toroids
> in quantities of 25. Jim was going to encourage Diz to do a 2N2/20 toroid
> kit. Otherwise this is a good opportunity to stock up you toroid
> collection. Everything but the BN2402s are in a NorCal toroid kit also.
> (1) T50-7 25 for $6.00
> (1) T37-2 25 for $5.00
> (5) T37-6 25 for $5.00
> (5) FT37-43 25 for $5.00
> (5) FT37-61 25 for $5.00
> (2) BN2402 25 for $6.00
> http://partsandkits.com/toroids.asp
>
> 3. All but 2 of the semi-conductors are available from either Mouser or
> Hosfelt. Hosfelt has a $5.00 minimum order (for credit card payment) and
> adds $1.00 plus actual shipping. I ordered 4 sets (spares!), but you could
> order 3 each of the varactor tuning diodes and 2x the rest to get to $5.14.
> (Or get together with a buddy and split an order.) I ordered these from
> Hosfelt:
> 1 MV1662 .35 .35
> 1 MV209 .35 .35
> 1 2N2907 .25 .25
> 1 2N2222A .25 .25
> 14 PN2222 .06 .84
> 3 25-325 LED .06 .18
> TOTAL 2.22 (An appropriate total!)
> http://www.hosfelt.com/
>
> 4. The 2SC2166 is only $1.55 ($1.45/10+) from Consolidated Electronics,
> but they have a $25.00 minimum order (plus $5.00 handling and actual
> shipping cost.) The NTE replacement from Mouser is $10.40. Jim K8IQY says
> a 2SC1969 or 2SC208 will also work, but I haven't found them any cheaper.
That's a 2SC2078 that is also a replacement.
I
> would like more than one, but I don't need 18. This may be a good group buy
> opportunity.
> http://www.ceitron.com/
>
> 5. The ADE-1 mixers are only available from MiniCircuits. MiniCircuits
> seems to only want to sell these in LARGE quantities. They quoted $14.95
> each for quantities of 2. ($29.90) The price drops to $10.94 each if you buy
> 5. You have to buy at least 25 to get a decent price - $2.49 each.
> (50=$2.29, 100=$1.99, 500=$1.89) (Jim K8IQY says MiniCircuits SCM-1 will
> also work, they quoted him $4.25 each for 1-9 units.) Again I would like
> more than 2, but I don't need 25. This looks like another good group buy
> opportunity.
> http://www.minicircuits.com/
I'd sure like to find a good solution for the CEI and MiniCircuits
sourcing problems. We need some creative thinking here.
>
> 6. The remaining parts are available from Mouser. I used NPO ceramic
> caps where the value was specified in picofarads. I used the cheapest
> ceramic or monolithic cap I could find for values from .001uf to 1uf. I
> used the cheapest aluminum electrolytics I could find for 1uf and above.
Go get the latest BoM off my web page, and update your list from
that Darrell. I've reorganized it and made it a lot more readable,
along with fixing the errors on the schematics.
On
> Jim's advice, I used the cheapest iron core molded inductors I could find
> where toroids were not specified. I used the KOA SPEER 1/4 watt 5%
> resistors (because they can be ordered in quantities of 1.)
>
> You may want to use your favorite trimmer caps, trimmer pots, control pots,
> fuse holders, and connectors. I have included the ones I used if you are
> interested.
>
> The easiest way to order parts from Mouser is to go to www.mouser.com, open
> the project manager, log-in (or sign up if this is your first time,) select
> the B.O.M. import tool, and paste the list at the bottom of this e-mail into
> the space provided. Select submit and the Project Manager will import
> everything into an order form.
>
> The Project Manager will also let you know if I screwed up any numbers, how
> much the parts cost, and if anything is on back-order. Check your parts
> bins, junk boxes, NorCal capacitor/resistor kits, and eliminate anything you
> have. (This is probably easier to do after you import into the B.O.M.)
>
> You will get an error on the crystals wanting you to order 100. 8 to 10 is
> a pretty small quantity for matching. This is another great group buy
> opportunity. If you can't find someone to split the crystals with, Jim says
> the 559-FOX111 part number should work and is available in smaller
> quantities.
>
> Finally submit the order.
>
> Other notes:
> C59&C80 are actually 2 caps each, a 30pf and a 33pf.
> The winding data for L5 is on the schematic, but not Jim's BOM.
Oooops, gotta fix that!!
> Jim says L4 should be an iron core molded choke also (even though the
> schematic does not show the iron core.)
It does now.
> There are TWO POT1s, one in the Rx RF Gain and one in the Optional RIT, only
> ONE is listed on the BOM.
That's fixed also.....
They are the same value and part number, just
> order 2.
> 3 or 4 parts showed up on back-order when I ordered, but were all available
> when I checked today. There were a couple of new back-orders today. This
> obviously changes day to day.
>
> Good luck building your 2N2/20. PLEASE let me know if you find any errors
> on my parts list of have any suggestions for better parts numbers and/or
> parts sources.
>
> 72... Darrel Swenson... K0AWB
Thanks for the update Darrel. You do good work!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I am building the if strip in the 2n2-40 and have a problem soldering the ground wire to one of the filter crystal cases. I soldered a wire to two of the cases for grounds, but the third will not take solder. The solder just rolls off the crystal case. I tried using a liquid and paste flux with no effect. I sanded, scraped and scratched, but nothing would allow solder to stick to the case. After everything else failed I used some acid (yes, I know). Didn't make a bit of difference.
All the crystals came for Mouser and visually appear to be the same.
Any suggestions?
Ron
Ron White
Amateur radio: WAØMWW
http://showcase.netins.net/web/rmw/index.html [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ron White wrote:
> I am building the if strip in the 2n2-40 and have a problem soldering the ground wire to one of the filter crystal cases. I soldered a wire to two of the cases for grounds, but the third will not take solder. The solder just rolls off the crystal case. I tried using a liquid and paste flux with no effect. I sanded, scraped and scratched, but nothing would allow solder to stick to the case. After everything else failed I used some acid (yes, I know). Didn't make a bit of difference.
>
> All the crystals came for Mouser and visually appear to be the same.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Ron
Hi Ron,
I can't imagine what might be going on unless the case on one of
the crystals is stainless steel or some aluminum alloy and won't
take solder. Usually, a bit of sanding on a top corner will remove
any impediments and let the solder flow like crazy. The only
other suggestion I have to offer is to get some conductive epoxy and
glue a lead on. That should work but won't be as electrically
sound as soldering it.
72 and GL; let me know what you finally do for a solution if you would,
Jim, K8IQY
If it were me, I would keep on building and get the radio to work. You can
then replace the crystal later on. I suspect it will work well enough to
let you tell that the rig is up and running.
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2004 11:39 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] grounding crystal case
>
>
>
> Ron White wrote:
>> I am building the if strip in the 2n2-40 and have a problem soldering the
>> ground wire to one of the filter crystal cases. I soldered a wire to two
>> of the cases for grounds, but the third will not take solder. The solder
>> just rolls off the crystal case. I tried using a liquid and paste flux
>> with no effect. I sanded, scraped and scratched, but nothing would allow
>> solder to stick to the case. After everything else failed I used some
>> acid (yes, I know). Didn't make a bit of difference.
>>
>> All the crystals came for Mouser and visually appear to be the same.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Ron
>
> Hi Ron,
>
> I can't imagine what might be going on unless the case on one of
> the crystals is stainless steel or some aluminum alloy and won't
> take solder. Usually, a bit of sanding on a top corner will remove
> any impediments and let the solder flow like crazy. The only
> other suggestion I have to offer is to get some conductive epoxy and
> glue a lead on. That should work but won't be as electrically
> sound as soldering it.
>
> 72 and GL; let me know what you finally do for a solution if you would,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
This is a bit off topic but I figure ham and homebrew and a challenge
for all:
There's a mad man selling 28mhz resonator chips on ebay as QRP projects
and includes low pass filter
components.
I just had to play with these and bought it.
Sure enough.... a 6 volt camera battery and a power bypass cap and its
on the air.
Can anyone tell me how to build a receiver that picks up this 28 mhz
transmitter using the
bare minimum of parts?
I do a ham radio show for scouts and show all modes of operation from
spark gap to SSTV and wanted to
show this type of QRP rig to impress parents that the hobby can be
done cheap ..... but I need a
simple receiver for this 28mhz xmitr.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5727273072Darrel Swenson wrote:
-snip-
> 2. The toroids are available from Diz at Parts&Kits. Diz sells toroids
> in quantities of 25. Jim was going to encourage Diz to do a 2N2/20 toroid
> kit. Otherwise this is a good opportunity to stock up you toroid
> collection. Everything but the BN2402s are in a NorCal toroid kit also.
> (1) T50-7 25 for $6.00
> (1) T37-2 25 for $5.00
> (5) T37-6 25 for $5.00
> (5) FT37-43 25 for $5.00
> (5) FT37-61 25 for $5.00
> (2) BN2402 25 for $6.00
> http://partsandkits.com/toroids.asp
Darrel,
It turns out that Diz also has available 2SC2075 transistors which
is a direct substitute for the 2SC2166. Diz is selling them at
2 for #3.00, so that price is excellent. No need now to go to CEI
and battle through the $25.00 minimum and all of the noise in
buying 1 or 2 units from them. Now if we could get Diz to stock
the ADE-1, all of the "odd" parts could be bought from him, as he
carries MV209 and MVAM108 varicaps. The MVAM108 with a series
capacitor would work fine where the MV1662 is called out. Or, get
Diz to buy some of the MV1662s from Hosfelt and make it one stop
shopping. Who would be interested in that? I'm going to call
Diz tonight and get his take on all of the above.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
<<
>>
Or, get
Diz to buy some of the MV1662s from Hosfelt and make
it one stop
shopping. Who would be interested in that? I'm going
to call
Diz tonight and get his take on all of the above.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
<<>>
Jim, very good idea, the one stop shopping will
solve a lot of expense and shipping/waiting time.
I will wait a few days to see what Diz and you
work out on this one.
Thanks and 72/73
Walter - K0TWO - Wright City, MO
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The all-new My Yahoo! - Get yours free!
http://my.yahoo.comI got some from Dan's Small Parts & Kits recently. Only $4.50 each, with $6 for S&H. Still,
not a bad price and Dan shipped promptly.
Mike Schettler WA6MER
|
3140|3131|2004-11-22 08:15:04|Mac AF4PS|Re: 2N2-20 Parts List and Sources|Diz is in the proces of moving to FL in the next few days (Thanksgiving time). I'm sure he is busy packing etc. Give him a few days to settle and I'm sure you will find nothing but cooperation.
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odesa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: Walter D
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2004 2:33 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2-20 Parts List and Sources
<<>>
Or, get
Diz to buy some of the MV1662s from Hosfelt and make
it one stop
shopping. Who would be interested in that? I'm going
to call
Diz tonight and get his take on all of the above.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
<<>>
Jim, very good idea, the one stop shopping will
solve a lot of expense and shipping/waiting time.
I will wait a few days to see what Diz and you
work out on this one.
Thanks and 72/73
Walter - K0TWO - Wright City, MO
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Dan's small parts has these at $4.50 ea.
http://www.danssmallpartsandkits.net/
Thanks for all that info Darrel. WOW! That must have been a lot of work
to assemble.
73.......Steve Smith WB6TNL
Oxnard, CA USA
"Snort Rosin"
On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 17:57:07 -0600 "Darrel Swenson"
writes:
>
> 5. The ADE-1 mixers are only available from MiniCircuits.
> MiniCircuits
> seems to only want to sell these in LARGE quantities.
________________________________________________________________
Juno Platinum $9.95. Juno SpeedBand $14.95.
Sign up for Juno Today at http://www.juno.com!
Look for special offers at Best Buy stores.Can anyone point me to a source for PCB board material that has no
holes and no copper?
Just the insulated PC board itself.
|
3143|3142|2004-11-23 01:02:40|Mark Schoonover|Re: no copper and no holes|You could easily make this yourself if it's not available from a supplier.
Just dunk what you need in some etchant before you go to work. It'll be
spic-n-span of all copper by the time you get home. I'm wondering though,
what will you be using this for??
HTH & 73
.mark
>-----Original Message-----
>From: rob [mailto:roomberg@ptd.net]
>Sent: Monday, November 22, 2004 7:46 PM
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2n2-40] no copper and no holes
>
>
>
>Can anyone point me to a source for PCB board material that has no
>holes and no copper?
>Just the insulated PC board itself.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>--------------------~-->
>$9.95 domain names from Yahoo!. Register anything.
>http://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/ELTolB/TM
>---------------------------------------------------------------
>-----~->
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Old fashion point to point wiring like terminal strips but I wanted to
custom make the
lugs layout by riveting the lugs to the brown board.... just like
terminal strips.
Mark Schoonover wrote:
>You could easily make this yourself if it's not available from a supplier.
>Just dunk what you need in some etchant before you go to work. It'll be
>spic-n-span of all copper by the time you get home. I'm wondering though,
>what will you be using this for??
>
>HTH & 73
>
>
>
JT Croteau wrote:
-snip-
>
> Thanks Jim, I'm all signed up. One more quick question and I'll stop
> bugging you.
You're not bugging me JT, I do this for a living! :-) I
can say that as I'm retired.
I have built a few kits over the years but never anything
> "from schematics" only like this would be and never anything complex at
> all. This would also be my first real Manhattan style project.
Well my recommendation would be to build something a bit simpler
using Manhattan-style construction so you get the "feel" of what
it is like. Something like the "Islander Amplifier" would be
a good choice before launching into a full blown rig like the
2N2/40+ or one of the other 2N2/XX designs. I'm not sure if
the "Islander Amplifier" info is still up on the NJ QRP web
site, but if it isn't, maybe I can get George to send me the
HTML code and I'll restore it on my web page. I'll cc him on
this reply.
With
> patience and lots of preparation, along with guidance from the list, do
> you think I can tackle this?
Sure you can. Many others who had not built anything from scratch
have very successfully. The key is going slow, and building it
neat IMHO. Slow keeps you from making obvious mistake, and neat
helps you at the end in case something doesn't work. You can find
the mistakes, or else other can if you take photos along the
way that show your work. We do that all the time.
As I've said to folks, building one of my rigs is like eating an
elephant. You have to do it a little bit at a time. The designs
are very forgiving I think, and in general, if you build it as
it is designed, and by that I mean put all of the right parts in
the correct places, it will work.
It's time to put my Extra license out
> there and actually build something for myself.
If that is how you see it, I and others will support your effort.
I just saved all the
> related PDFs for the 40+ and going to start going over them.
That's a good start, and ask lots of questions on the things that
don't make sense, both at the beginning, and all the way along.
We'll make sure you are successful.
I'm gonna post this reply to the 2N2-40 group also so that they
know we have another potential builder that is getting serious.
72 and have a nice holiday,
Jim, K8IQY
Lee Mairs wrote:
> The 2n2-40 was my first scratch built rig.
Thanks for the comments Lee, I am quite anxious to get started.
I'm probably going to do my first build modularly using K3PEG's "Extreme
Manhattan" layouts as a guide.
For now, the parts collecting begins.
I'm quite ashamed to admit that, although I'm an Extra class ticket
holder, my CW skills are extremly lacking. However, I've always admired
those who are very proficient in it. To force myself to become more
proficient with the code, I'm going to start building, and using, some
CW only gear.
Looking forward to it all.
73's
---
JT Croteau Wilmington, CA
ARS W6FO/MM aboard "QuickSilver" Los Angeles Harbor
--
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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JT,
Just wanted to say go for it. I built the 2N2-40+ and it was the first time I had built anything using the Manhattan method. I had been inactive for many years and the last thing I built from scratch was 4-811s in GG and that was in 1972. I would highly recommend using K3PEGs layout, at least as a guide. Mostly the build went without trouble. I did have a problem at first because I was misreading my scope and wasn't getting enough drive from the VFO. Jim was always there helping and encouraging me.
I took pictures along the way and if you want to look at them you can see them here.
http://www.wb6kwt.com
Good luck
Bob
WB6KWT
JT Croteau
wrote:
Lee Mairs wrote:
> The 2n2-40 was my first scratch built rig.
Thanks for the comments Lee, I am quite anxious to get started.
I'm probably going to do my first build modularly using K3PEG's "Extreme
Manhattan" layouts as a guide.
For now, the parts collecting begins.
I'm quite ashamed to admit that, although I'm an Extra class ticket
holder, my CW skills are extremly lacking. However, I've always admired
those who are very proficient in it. To force myself to become more
proficient with the code, I'm going to start building, and using, some
CW only gear.
Looking forward to it all.
73's
---
JT Croteau Wilmington, CA
ARS W6FO/MM aboard "QuickSilver" Los Angeles Harbor
--
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 7.0.279 / Virus Database: 265.4.1 - Release Date: 11/19/2004
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]Bob Miller wrote:
> Just wanted to say go for it.
Thanks, I'm def. going to go for it. I need to acquire a bunch of tools
first though. Heck, I don't even currently have a soldering iron.
Someone should take my damn Extra ticket away from me. hihi.
> I took pictures along the way and if you want to look at them you can see them here.
> http://www.wb6kwt.com
I'll check it out, I just tried now but it's timing out on me.
---
JT Croteau Wilmington, CA
ARS W6FO/MM aboard "QuickSilver" Los Angeles Harbor
--
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 7.0.279 / Virus Database: 265.4.2 - Release Date: 11/24/2004
Hmmmm I can't reach it either, it is running on my Linux box at home. I'll check and see what the problem is.
Bob
WB6KWT
JT Croteau
wrote:
Bob Miller wrote:
> Just wanted to say go for it.
Thanks, I'm def. going to go for it. I need to acquire a bunch of tools
first though. Heck, I don't even currently have a soldering iron.
Someone should take my damn Extra ticket away from me. hihi.
> I took pictures along the way and if you want to look at them you can see them here.
> http://www.wb6kwt.com
I'll check it out, I just tried now but it's timing out on me.
---
JT Croteau Wilmington, CA
ARS W6FO/MM aboard "QuickSilver" Los Angeles Harbor
--
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]Hello,
I am also in the process to build a 2N2/40.
I also have made the choice to push the modular idea behing this rig.
Each part of the rig will be build on a 2x4 inches board and they will be
connected on their edge via some kind of connectors (to be defined)
I am writhing a doc file describing a list of parts, the diagram and the
layout for each section. This document will be update and corrected during
the building of this rig.
I have most of the parts. Some trimers caps and the connectors are missing.
Will look at the Dan's samll parts website to complete what is missing.
Keep me inform about your building, I will try to follow you.
Happy soldering
72 de Jean (VE2GHI)
----- Original Message -----
From: "JT Croteau"
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 12:29 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2/40
>
> Bob Miller wrote:
>
> > Just wanted to say go for it.
>
> Thanks, I'm def. going to go for it. I need to acquire a bunch of tools
> first though. Heck, I don't even currently have a soldering iron.
> Someone should take my damn Extra ticket away from me. hihi.
>
> > I took pictures along the way and if you want to look at them you can
see them here.
> > http://www.wb6kwt.com
>
> I'll check it out, I just tried now but it's timing out on me.
>
> ---
> JT Croteau Wilmington, CA
> ARS W6FO/MM aboard "QuickSilver" Los Angeles Harbor
>
>
>
> --
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 7.0.279 / Virus Database: 265.4.2 - Release Date: 11/24/2004
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
I am using a third party DNS site to keep my IP updated and had to update their server for some reason. I just connected to my server at http://www.wb6kwt.com
Bob
WB6KWT
Bob Miller
wrote:
Hmmmm I can't reach it either, it is running on my Linux box at home. I'll check and see what the problem is.
Bob
WB6KWT
JT Croteau wrote:
Bob Miller wrote:
> Just wanted to say go for it.
Thanks, I'm def. going to go for it. I need to acquire a bunch of tools
first though. Heck, I don't even currently have a soldering iron.
Someone should take my damn Extra ticket away from me. hihi.
> I took pictures along the way and if you want to look at them you can see them here.
> http://www.wb6kwt.com
I'll check it out, I just tried now but it's timing out on me.
---
JT Croteau Wilmington, CA
ARS W6FO/MM aboard "QuickSilver" Los Angeles Harbor
--
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]Just wanted to say the idea you have on your website for making IC
Manhattan pads is brilliant (One of those "Why didn't I think of
that?" things) Here I've been jacking around making them with a
Dremel tool and router table attachment. I have half a dozen of these
proto boards of various styles laying around because I do everything
(Including hi-performance audio) Manhattan style now.
Guess we all know what I'll be doing tonight .... snip snip
This is a great project for anyone wanting to learn Manhattan
construction and even radio electronics in general because there is
plenty of documentation and excellent support from Jim and several
builders. Once you go Manhattan style, you'll never go back to making
single run PCBs for most projects
J.R.
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Bob Miller wrote:
> JT,
>
> Just wanted to say go for it. I built the 2N2-40+ and it was the
first time I had built anything using the Manhattan method. I had
been inactive for many years and the last thing I built from scratch
was 4-811s in GG and that was in 1972. I would highly recommend using
K3PEGs layout, at least as a guide. Mostly the build went without
trouble. I did have a problem at first because I was misreading my
scope and wasn't getting enough drive from the VFO. Jim was always
there helping and encouraging me.
>
> I took pictures along the way and if you want to look at them you
can see them here.
>
> http://www.wb6kwt.com
>
> Good luck
>
> Bob
> WB6KWT
have been removed]
J.R.,
Thanks for your kind words. I wish someone had come up with this Manhattan idea years ago. I can't tell how many projects I wanted to build but the circuit board was always the problem. I did have some success in making my own boards but many more were a bust.
I wonder if anyone, besides Jim, has a 2N2-20 built or near completion? I've ordered some of the parts but kind of got off track building KD1JV's ATS-III. I'm also waiting for K3PEG to post his layout, that makes it a lot easier to get started.
Bob
WB6KWT
jr_dakota <
longjohn119@mchsi.com> wrote:
Just wanted to say the idea you have on your website for making IC
Manhattan pads is brilliant (One of those "Why didn't I think of
that?" things) Here I've been jacking around making them with a
Dremel tool and router table attachment. I have half a dozen of these
proto boards of various styles laying around because I do everything
(Including hi-performance audio) Manhattan style now.
Guess we all know what I'll be doing tonight .... snip snip
This is a great project for anyone wanting to learn Manhattan
construction and even radio electronics in general because there is
plenty of documentation and excellent support from Jim and several
builders. Once you go Manhattan style, you'll never go back to making
single run PCBs for most projects
J.R.
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Bob Miller wrote:
> JT,
>
> Just wanted to say go for it. I built the 2N2-40+ and it was the
first time I had built anything using the Manhattan method. I had
been inactive for many years and the last thing I built from scratch
was 4-811s in GG and that was in 1972. I would highly recommend using
K3PEGs layout, at least as a guide. Mostly the build went without
trouble. I did have a problem at first because I was misreading my
scope and wasn't getting enough drive from the VFO. Jim was always
there helping and encouraging me.
>
> I took pictures along the way and if you want to look at them you
can see them here.
>
> http://www.wb6kwt.com
>
> Good luck
>
> Bob
> WB6KWT
have been removed]
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bob Miller wrote:
> I wonder if anyone, besides Jim, has a 2N2-20 built or near completion?
Wayne, NB6M, is nearing completion of his 2n2-20. I think Wayne is obsessed
once he starts melting solder. :-)
73, Jim
--
Jim Larsen
http://www.CSTAlaska.com/ http://www.AL7FS.us/ Anchorage, Alaska
At 06:51 AM 8/22/01 -0400, you wrote:
Jim, put me down for the new filter kit. After this is all said and done, it
sounds like, you could be re-doing the QRPp article. Think about it. It's a
good thing you are retired.
72
Les Bearl, N0PPF
Les,
Your VBW filter kit will ship today, 10/3/2001.
72 and many thanks for supporting the Yahoo 2N2-40 build.
Jim, K8IQY
At 09:40 PM 10/7/01 +0000, you wrote:
Hello Gang,
I have a question about the 2N2/40 board layout. The layout diagram in the Winter 1998 QRPp is different than the suggested layout on K8IQY's webpage. Which one should I use? I'm guessing that K8IQY's webpage suggested layout is the one to use due to the changes made since the QRPp article was published. I can't wait to get started building!! Thanks in advance for the help.
72 de Pat KF4LMZ
Rock Hill, South Carolina
Pat and others,
I'd suggest using the layout in the Winter QRPp, or reprint that
many of you bought. The layouts on the web page were done before
Paul did the illustrations for the article, so are actually older.
Also, the corrections that have been posted on my web page
and elsewhere I'm sure, address the layout from the QRPp article.
Actually, neither one are sacred, and just about any layout you
want to try will probably work. WJ2V proved that! :-) Sorry
Preston, couldn't help myself.......
72 and build on........
Jim, K8IQY
At 08:26 AM 10/6/01 -0400, you wrote:
I'm personally fond of making the pads using a hole punch, they seem to
come out pretty flat. I'm going to look into a nibbling tool for making
square or rectangular pads as well - maybe banging them flat after
nibbling would work?
73 de John, N1QO
John and others,
If you use an ADEL brand nibbling tool to make rectangular pads, you
will not have to do any "post production" operations. They
come out of the nibbler ready to be glued down.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
At 03:22 AM 10/11/01 +0100, Tom, KC0GXX wrote:
I got my diode and my F37-61 toroid and soldered 'em in last nite. Tonite I
hooked 'er up, and its making noises.
I have soooo many questions.....
(newbie alert)
1) When the 10 turn, 20k pot is turned all the way counterclockwise (to the
left), I can hear a nice tone, about 800hrz, at 1.995mHz (handy dandy
RX398). When I am all the way to the right (clockwise) I hear the tone at
2.085mHz. I need to remove a turn on L1, right?
Sure sounds like that would be appropriate. You've got 90 KHz
of coverage, but it's just too low. Removing a turn will move
the frequency range up, and also make is a bit wider.
2) Why do I have TC4? I can alter the tone by turning TC4, but (sheepish
grin) I really don't know what I am doing here....
TC4 sets how low, (or high) the VFO will tune. With the control pot
all the way counter clockwise, you adjust TC4 for the bottom of the
VFO range, i.e. 2.085 MHz nominally. The exact lower end adjustment
can't be done until you get the crystal filter done and actually set
the VFO to place the received signal on 7.000 MHz in the middle of
the filter's passband.
3) To get that nice tone from 2.085-2.185mHz, I need to remove a turn from
L1, yes? Maybe 2 turns, or whatever. What is TC4 for? Can I get that range
by adjusting TC4 somehow, or is it just for hi or low end "fine tuning"?
See above......
It appears I have about 100kHz of range, or so, just not the right area.
Correct!
As an aside, it was soo cool to hear this thing. (I had my doubts I was
going in the right direction....)
Sounds and looks to me like you are going along fine. Others on
the list are probably green with envy.
I can't wait to build the next stage, the receiver front end.
We're all waiting to hear the news that that section is complete
and working too.
72 and GL building the next stage,
Jim, K8IQY
At 09:47 PM 10/9/01 +0000, Dennis, WB0WAO wrote:
Hi Group.. Got my parts kit from John today, so I was able to put the last few missing parts in the VFO and fire it up.... IT WORKS! - Sort of :-) Was testing it using a 9v battery as the Vcc and could not get the VFO to adjust up to 2.085 - highest I could get it was 2.005 according to my SSS counter. Am I thinking right here that because of the lower voltage, the value of D7 would not be within parameters, thus dropping the freq?
The lower voltage may be part of the problem, but I suspect it has
more to do with the way you wound L1, and the capacitors used in
the VFO. Your really not that far from the mark. If you take
a turn off L1, it may put you very near or right on. Certainly,
I would expect taking off two turns will get you there. Having
to remove turns in a VFO inductor is a frequennt event. Part of
it is due to the variablilty in the material used in the toroid core
itself. +/- 10 percent is the normal tolerance.
As for the voltage, measure the top end, (cathode) of D6 with respect
to ground. If you are getting about 6.9 volts, running on the
9 volt supply isn't a problem.
Anyway, I have the RX/X Driver done and it is working FB. Haven't checked out the Front End yet. This is FUN!!!!!!
Glad to hear that!!! :-)
72 and keep building.....
Jim, K8IQY
Jim -
I'm getting all your posts with html formatting. Is this you, or did Yahoo
change the mode of operation.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge, K8IQY" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2001 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Nibbling tool comments
>
>
> At 08:26 AM 10/6/01 -0400, you wrote:
> I'm personally fond of making the
> pads using a hole punch, they seem to
> come out pretty flat. I'm going to look into a nibbling tool for
> making
> square or rectangular pads as well - maybe banging them flat after
> nibbling would work?
>
> 73 de John, N1QO
> John and others,
>
> If you use an ADEL brand nibbling tool to make rectangular pads, you
> will not have to do any "post production" operations.
> They
> come out of the nibbler ready to be glued down.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Lee Mairs wrote:
> Jim -
> I'm getting all your posts with html formatting. Is this you, or did Yahoo
> change the mode of operation.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY/8
HI,
It was a front panel short to ground! I had saved some replys
to emails and when I sent them out, the mailer selected a very
old queue of sent messages and started blasting those out. I got
it stopped after several got launched, but not all of them.
Sorry that happened......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hello to all;
I have taken a dremal tool and ground out the centering dimple on the
whitney punch and it makes perfect flat pads. I have removed it on several sizes
also.
73 de Bob KA4KFH.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3163|3163|2004-11-27 09:55:43|nq2rp10|Changed Email & HTML Trash|With Juno discontinuing their free Email, I had to resubscribe to the
2N2-40 list from another account. Unfortunately I am getting all of
the posts with all of the HTML spelled out. This makes it very hard
to read.
How do I get back to plain text as Email was intended to be...
73, Keith, WB2VUO, TC - ARR: WNY Section
Trustee, NQ2RP/B 10-Meter Beacon
28.2873 MHz ou Your Radio Dial - 24/7
|
3164|462|2004-11-27 09:59:17|Lee Mairs|Re: Nibbling tool comments|What is a whitney punch?
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kershank@aol.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 26, 2004 11:01 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Nibbling tool comments
>
> Hello to all;
> I have taken a dremal tool and ground out the centering dimple on the
> whitney punch and it makes perfect flat pads. I have removed it on several
> sizes
> also.
>
> 73 de Bob KA4KFH.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
That was a bit of pilot error that has since been corrected. If you get
this non-HTML all is right with the world again.
73 de Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "nq2rp10" <nq2rp@frontiernet.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 27, 2004 9:55 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Changed Email & HTML Trash
>
>
> With Juno discontinuing their free Email, I had to resubscribe to the
> 2N2-40 list from another account. Unfortunately I am getting all of
> the posts with all of the HTML spelled out. This makes it very hard
> to read.
>
> How do I get back to plain text as Email was intended to be...
>
> 73, Keith, WB2VUO, TC - ARR: WNY Section
> Trustee, NQ2RP/B 10-Meter Beacon
> 28.2873 MHz ou Your Radio Dial - 24/7
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
A Roper Whitney hand punch is much like the punch that
others have purchased from Harbor Freight. A dead
ringer, in fact.
It is a manual hand punch with assorted size punches
and dies that allow you to punch holes in alum., PC
board material, flashing-you get it.
Roper Whitney has two high-quality punches, the Junior
and the XX. The Junior punches small holes up to
about 1/4" while the XX can do larger holes (like for
miniature tube sockets). They are both very nice, but
a bit pricey if you won't be using it a great deal. I
use mine every week! It was worth it.
Hope that helps.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- Lee Mairs <
lmairs@sagcorp.com> wrote:
> What is a whitney punch?
>
> 73 de Lee
> km4yy/8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Kershank@aol.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, November 26, 2004 11:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Nibbling tool comments
>
>
> >
> > Hello to all;
> > I have taken a dremal tool and ground out the
> centering dimple on the
> > whitney punch and it makes perfect flat pads. I
> have removed it on several
> > sizes
> > also.
> >
> > 73 de Bob KA4KFH.
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mailThanks for all the work you did here, Darrel. I'm subscribed to the Digest
version of the 2n2-XX emails so didn't get the attachment you mention, along
with your notes. Would you have time to send that to me directly or perhaps
post it on the Yahoo group's File section?
I'm slowly accumulating parts and courage to start on a 2N2-30. (My first
transceiver project from scratch.) I was curious if you, or anyone else on
the list, could give me an estimate on total cost, assuming I'm going to be
buying almost everything new?
72
Kip N6NVP
#-#-#-#
Kip Williams N6NVP | San Diego, CA | San Diego County | DM12ks
#-#-#-#
> Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2004 17:57:07 -0600
> From: "Darrel Swenson" <dswenson@wearne.net>
> Subject: 2N2-20 Parts List and Sources
>
> I promised Doug W7RDP and Jim KL7FS a copy of my parts list and sources
> for
> the 2N2-20. I decided to share it with the entire list. My complete list
> is in the Excel attachment. This e-mail contains a bunch of my notes, and
> a
> text list at the end for 'cut and paste' into Mouser's Project Manager.
>
Sorry Lee;
A whitney punch is a hand punch lile Harbor Freight has, Item 44060-tvga
.It was first made by whitney tools a long time ago and most sheet metal workers
call it a whitney punch. the point in the center of the punch is used to
center the hole by being placed in a dent created by a awl in the metal . When i[
is used to make pads , the center point makes a dent in the pad.
73 DE BOb
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3169|3169|2004-11-27 18:35:38|Byron-Bergen AMateurS|HTML Gone|Hi. Keith here in the Depths of the Great Bergen Swamp
The HTML content is not on the last couple of posts I have seen. May have
been something freaky with the originating member or a Micro$haft glitch
With the new job being somewhat seasonal, I will be able to get back to the
2N2-40, but really should make it a 2N2-30 as it's a missing band here in
the shack. I definitely need a 30M TX as the Kenwood TS-520 receives 10.0
- 10.6 MHz in the WWV range.
A Manhattan 2N2-30T sounds good!
How about 2N2-xxT and 2N2-xxR separates? Put classic Millen dials on them
and crackle finish paint and have a couple of classics...
73, Keith, WB2VUO, TC - ARRL WNY Section
Trustee, NQ2RP/B 10-Meter Beacon
28.2873 MHz on Your radio Dial - 24/7
|
3170|462|2004-11-28 09:38:06|Lee Mairs|Re: Nibbling tool comments|Bob -
Are you referring to the punches used to make sure you drill the hole in the
right spot? In other words, you pick the punch so that it just barely fits
in the hole on the piece that needs to mate to the material. The dimple in
the center locates the center of that hole on the piece that is to be
drilled.
If this is what you are talking about, I don't see how that helps you make a
pad...
Lee
km4yy/8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kershank@aol.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 27, 2004 2:18 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Nibbling tool comments
>
> Sorry Lee;
> A whitney punch is a hand punch lile Harbor Freight has, Item 44060-tvga
> .It was first made by whitney tools a long time ago and most sheet metal
> workers
> call it a whitney punch. the point in the center of the punch is used to
> center the hole by being placed in a dent created by a awl in the metal .
> When i[
> is used to make pads , the center point makes a dent in the pad.
> 73 DE BOb
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Byron-Bergen AMateurS wrote:
> Hi. Keith here in the Depths of the Great Bergen Swamp
>
> The HTML content is not on the last couple of posts I have seen. May have
> been something freaky with the originating member or a Micro$haft glitch
>
> With the new job being somewhat seasonal, I will be able to get back to the
> 2N2-40, but really should make it a 2N2-30 as it's a missing band here in
> the shack. I definitely need a 30M TX as the Kenwood TS-520 receives 10.0
> - 10.6 MHz in the WWV range.
>
> A Manhattan 2N2-30T sounds good!
Keith,
You could just build the Tx strip and the VFO of the 2N2/30 and
have your needed rig.
>
> How about 2N2-xxT and 2N2-xxR separates?
That could be done too, with the VFO in a separate
box too if you didn't want completely separate rigs.
Put classic Millen dials on them
> and crackle finish paint and have a couple of classics...
Roger that. Do it!! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
LEE
The hand punch is made primarly to punch holes in sheet metal and when doing
that , you take an awl and make a dent in the metal to mark the center of the
hole,then you put the point that is in the center of the punch in that dent
and the hole will be exactly where you want it.To use the punch to make
pads,you need to grind the point out of the center of the punch and it will punch out
good flat pads.Sorry I confused you by talking about two differant ways to
use the punch
Bob KA4KFH
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3173|462|2004-11-28 21:09:35|Lee Mairs|Re: Nibbling tool comments|OK, now I get it. I do have one of the HF punches, so I guess I have a
whitney punch!
My major complaint was the fact that it was a real problem to get the
punched pads out of the punch.
73 de Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kershank@aol.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2004 8:52 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Nibbling tool comments
>
> LEE
> The hand punch is made primarly to punch holes in sheet metal and when
> doing
> that , you take an awl and make a dent in the metal to mark the center of
> the
> hole,then you put the point that is in the center of the punch in that
> dent
> and the hole will be exactly where you want it.To use the punch to make
> pads,you need to grind the point out of the center of the punch and it
> will punch out
> good flat pads.Sorry I confused you by talking about two differant ways to
> use the punch
> Bob KA4KFH
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Yes that is a problem and it won`t improve when you grind out the center of
the punch. The punch center point`s main reason for being there is to make the
punch easier to work and clear itself. (in metal) .When I make pads I make 30
or more at a time and they are forced out after a few is made. When I am
finished,I push the rest out with a drill rod.Any thing round and flat ended that
will fit the hole will do.
Good luck! Bob
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3175|462|2004-11-28 22:09:51|Howard Kraus|Re: Nibbling tool comments|The first pad will be like that. The next ones will
come out with the first.
GL es 73
Howard K2UD
--- Lee Mairs <
lmairs@sagcorp.com> wrote:
> OK, now I get it. I do have one of the HF punches,
> so I guess I have a
> whitney punch!
>
> My major complaint was the fact that it was a real
> problem to get the
> punched pads out of the punch.
>
> 73 de Lee
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Kershank@aol.com>
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2004 8:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Nibbling tool comments
>
>
> >
> > LEE
> > The hand punch is made primarly to punch holes in
> sheet metal and when
> > doing
> > that , you take an awl and make a dent in the
> metal to mark the center of
> > the
> > hole,then you put the point that is in the center
> of the punch in that
> > dent
> > and the hole will be exactly where you want it.To
> use the punch to make
> > pads,you need to grind the point out of the center
> of the punch and it
> > will punch out
> > good flat pads.Sorry I confused you by talking
> about two differant ways to
> > use the punch
> > Bob KA4KFH
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.comHello everyone,
My 2n2/40 is almost ready to start building.
I have choice to build it on 8 differents boards all the same size.
Each board should have some kind of connectors.
All the borad will be <> to some kind of motherboard.
Le pins 1 of each board will be VCC and the last pin will be ground.
This configuration will permit to unplug a spedific board and try other circuit.
The question is what kind of connector ??
==>They should have about 20 pins.
==>They should be as inexpensive and easy to find as possible.
==>They shold accept the board I will use. (???)
I expect to build my rig in the true Manhattan style with a double side copper board.
By the way... what type of connectors is use in real computer. They have this type of configuration.
Any help will be appreciate
72 de Jean (VE2GHI)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3177|3177|2004-12-05 20:39:54|Mike Schettler|New 2N2/30 Rig Photos|I've upoaded some photos of my new 2N2/30 rig. It is built into a wooden box, originally
used to hold a bottle of wine.
After much help from Jim K8IQY, I built it on 3 boards. A receiver board, transmitter
board, and VFO board. Given the size of the box, all the boards are 3 inches wide. Rx is 8
inches long, tx is 4 inches long, and VFO is 2 inches long. Tx and VFO are stacked, much
like the 4017 Transverter, also designed by K8IQY.
The rig is almost "done". Transmitter puts out 2W, using a 2SC799 PA. The S-meter uses
an audio-derived circuit, tapped off the top of the audio gain pot, and a meter from a
junked CB radio. The receiver performs very well, as expected!
The photos are available in the "Files" section, in a folder called "2N230 Photos".
Thanks to Jim for all his help!
72
Mike Schettler WA6MER
|
3178|3177|2004-12-06 10:50:20|Laurie Landry|Re: New 2N2/30 Rig Photos|Mike ,
Your photos dont seem to appear in the photo file. Or, maybe I should say I cannot find them.
72,
Laurie, VE1AWJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Schettler
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2004 9:39 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] New 2N2/30 Rig Photos
I've upoaded some photos of my new 2N2/30 rig. It is built into a wooden box, originally
used to hold a bottle of wine.
After much help from Jim K8IQY, I built it on 3 boards. A receiver board, transmitter
board, and VFO board. Given the size of the box, all the boards are 3 inches wide. Rx is 8
inches long, tx is 4 inches long, and VFO is 2 inches long. Tx and VFO are stacked, much
like the 4017 Transverter, also designed by K8IQY.
The rig is almost "done". Transmitter puts out 2W, using a 2SC799 PA. The S-meter uses
an audio-derived circuit, tapped off the top of the audio gain pot, and a meter from a
junked CB radio. The receiver performs very well, as expected!
The photos are available in the "Files" section, in a folder called "2N230 Photos".
Thanks to Jim for all his help!
72
Mike Schettler WA6MER
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Darrel,
Take a look at a supplier up in New York called "Match-A-Knob" { of all names to have} they have an extensive line of TO-220 2SC-types, I bought a good variety at very cheap prices. They have website, look under semiconductor s, then enter "2SC" into their search engine.I looked through all of the QRP books and got all of the equivalent part#'s, such as 2SC1969, 2SC2218, etc.
CUL, Byron.
----- Original Message -----
From: Darrel Swenson
To: DPhill1019@aol.com ; Jim Larsen - AL7FS ; 2N2-40 yahoo group
Cc: Jim Kortge, K8IQY
Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2004 5:57 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2-20 Parts List and Sources
I promised Doug W7RDP and Jim KL7FS a copy of my parts list and sources for
the 2N2-20. I decided to share it with the entire list. My complete list
is in the Excel attachment. This e-mail contains a bunch of my notes, and a
text list at the end for 'cut and paste' into Mouser's Project Manager.
My list is based on Jim K8IQY's PacifiCon Presentation and a series of
e-mails I traded with Jim.
A couple of notes to start with:
1. This list hasn't been proof read by anyone but me at this point. A
couple of errors have probably escaped my otherwise excellent vision and
memory :)
2. I am just starting to build my 2N2-20. There are still a couple of
parts on back-order. There may be some changes as I build, based on
back-order availability and what fits on the board.
I ordered most of my parts from Mouser. I used the following 6 vendors:
1. I ordered 4 pieces of 6"x7" copper clad circuit board from The
Electronic Goldmine. (I'm going to build a case from the other 3 pieces.)
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/products.asp?dept=1034
2. The toroids are available from Diz at Parts&Kits. Diz sells toroids
in quantities of 25. Jim was going to encourage Diz to do a 2N2/20 toroid
kit. Otherwise this is a good opportunity to stock up you toroid
collection. Everything but the BN2402s are in a NorCal toroid kit also.
(1) T50-7 25 for $6.00
(1) T37-2 25 for $5.00
(5) T37-6 25 for $5.00
(5) FT37-43 25 for $5.00
(5) FT37-61 25 for $5.00
(2) BN2402 25 for $6.00
http://partsandkits.com/toroids.asp
3. All but 2 of the semi-conductors are available from either Mouser or
Hosfelt. Hosfelt has a $5.00 minimum order (for credit card payment) and
adds $1.00 plus actual shipping. I ordered 4 sets (spares!), but you could
order 3 each of the varactor tuning diodes and 2x the rest to get to $5.14.
(Or get together with a buddy and split an order.) I ordered these from
Hosfelt:
1 MV1662 .35 .35
1 MV209 .35 .35
1 2N2907 .25 .25
1 2N2222A .25 .25
14 PN2222 .06 .84
3 25-325 LED .06 .18
TOTAL 2.22 (An appropriate total!)
http://www.hosfelt.com/
4. The 2SC2166 is only $1.55 ($1.45/10+) from Consolidated Electronics,
but they have a $25.00 minimum order (plus $5.00 handling and actual
shipping cost.) The NTE replacement from Mouser is $10.40. Jim K8IQY says
a 2SC1969 or 2SC208 will also work, but I haven't found them any cheaper. I
would like more than one, but I don't need 18. This may be a good group buy
opportunity.
http://www.ceitron.com/
5. The ADE-1 mixers are only available from MiniCircuits. MiniCircuits
seems to only want to sell these in LARGE quantities. They quoted $14.95
each for quantities of 2. ($29.90) The price drops to $10.94 each if you buy
5. You have to buy at least 25 to get a decent price - $2.49 each.
(50=$2.29, 100=$1.99, 500=$1.89) (Jim K8IQY says MiniCircuits SCM-1 will
also work, they quoted him $4.25 each for 1-9 units.) Again I would like
more than 2, but I don't need 25. This looks like another good group buy
opportunity.
http://www.minicircuits.com/
6. The remaining parts are available from Mouser. I used NPO ceramic
caps where the value was specified in picofarads. I used the cheapest
ceramic or monolithic cap I could find for values from .001uf to 1uf. I
used the cheapest aluminum electrolytics I could find for 1uf and above. On
Jim's advice, I used the cheapest iron core molded inductors I could find
where toroids were not specified. I used the KOA SPEER 1/4 watt 5%
resistors (because they can be ordered in quantities of 1.)
You may want to use your favorite trimmer caps, trimmer pots, control pots,
fuse holders, and connectors. I have included the ones I used if you are
interested.
The easiest way to order parts from Mouser is to go to www.mouser.com, open
the project manager, log-in (or sign up if this is your first time,) select
the B.O.M. import tool, and paste the list at the bottom of this e-mail into
the space provided. Select submit and the Project Manager will import
everything into an order form.
The Project Manager will also let you know if I screwed up any numbers, how
much the parts cost, and if anything is on back-order. Check your parts
bins, junk boxes, NorCal capacitor/resistor kits, and eliminate anything you
have. (This is probably easier to do after you import into the B.O.M.)
You will get an error on the crystals wanting you to order 100. 8 to 10 is
a pretty small quantity for matching. This is another great group buy
opportunity. If you can't find someone to split the crystals with, Jim says
the 559-FOX111 part number should work and is available in smaller
quantities.
Finally submit the order.
Other notes:
C59&C80 are actually 2 caps each, a 30pf and a 33pf.
The winding data for L5 is on the schematic, but not Jim's BOM.
Jim says L4 should be an iron core molded choke also (even though the
schematic does not show the iron core.)
There are TWO POT1s, one in the Rx RF Gain and one in the Optional RIT, only
ONE is listed on the BOM. They are the same value and part number, just
order 2.
3 or 4 parts showed up on back-order when I ordered, but were all available
when I checked today. There were a couple of new back-orders today. This
obviously changes day to day.
Good luck building your 2N2/20. PLEASE let me know if you find any errors
on my parts list of have any suggestions for better parts numbers and/or
parts sources.
72... Darrel Swenson... K0AWB
140-50N5-2R2D 1
140-50N5-300J 3
140-50N5-330J 3
140-50N5-470J 3
140-50N2-560J 4
140-50N2-820J 2
140-50N5-101J 4
140-50N5-121J 2
140-50N5-151J 2
140-50N5-181J 1
140-50N5-221J 7
581-SR151A471J 1
581-SR151A681J 6
581-SR211A102J 2
80-C320C122J2G 2
80-C320C332J1G 1
75-1C10X7R102K050B 1
75-1C10X7R103K050B 4
75-1C10Z5U104M050B 37
75-1C10Z5U224M050B 1
75-517D50V1 2
75-517D50V3.3 1
75-517D50V4.7 1
75-517D50V10 1
75-517D50V47 1
75-517D50V100 2
75-517D50V470 1
43LQ396 2
43LQ566 1
43LQ826 2
43LQ104 1
43LS103 1
42TM003 1
660-CF1/4L6R8J 2
660-CF1/4L100J 4
660-CF1/4L150J 1
660-CF1/4L160J 2
660-CF1/4L270J 8
660-CF1/4L330J 1
660-CF1/4L430J 1
660-CF1/4L470J 1
291-51 10
660-CF1/4L560J 3
660-CF1/4L680J 1
660-CF1/4L910J 1
660-CF1/4L101J 5
660-CF1/4L121J 1
660-CF1/4L131J 1
660-MF1/4CL1500F 2
660-CF1/4L181J 1
660-CF1/4L221J 2
660-MF1/4CL2740F 3
660-CF1/4L821J 2
660-CF1/4L102J 5
660-CF1/4L152J 3
660-CF1/4L182J 1
660-CF1/4L222J 2
660-CF1/4L272J 3
660-CF1/4L332J 3
660-CF1/4L392J 1
660-CF1/4L432J 1
660-CF1/4L472J 4
660-CF1/4L562J 1
660-CF1/4L103J 6
660-CF1/4L153J 2
660-CF1/4L203J 1
660-CF1/4L273J 2
660-CF1/4L333J 1
660-CF1/4L473J 5
660-CF1/4L105J 1
660-CF1/4L225J 1
583-1N4004-B 1
78-1N4148 8
512-1N4735A 1
512-1N4744A 1
625-1N5711 6
625-2N4124 1
512-2N7000 1
512-J176 1
512-MPSH10 2
520-HCA1100-S 10
659-GKG50015 9
659-GKG30015 1
72-T7RYA-50 1
31VJ301 2
594-53611203 1
31XP401 1
5768-97003 1
5768-53009 1
163-4304 1
571-2277542 1
161-3508 2
161-3402 4
253-4020 1
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
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c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Just stumbled across it tonight ... looks very nice
J. R.
|
3181|3180|2004-12-13 10:18:19|Jim Kortge|Re: Nice Job On Website Jim|jr_dakota wrote:
>
> Just stumbled across it tonight ... looks very nice
>
> J. R.
JR,
Thanks for the feedback. Still lots of info to get ready
and loaded before it is all done. Too many projects, too little
time!! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Anyone willing to match crystals for this project?
Bob WB6KWT
|
3183|3183|2005-02-13 08:57:20|w2agn|Finally!|I finally got around to building my 2N2/40. Pretty much stock except
added RIT and a TiCK keyer. I am amazed at how good the receiver is!
Transmitter puts out a solid 2 watts. First QSO with N2OT who was
running a KW and gave me a 579. I put a picture on the Yahoo group.
|
3184|3183|2005-02-13 10:20:10|Jim Kortge|Re: Finally!|w2agn wrote:
>
> I finally got around to building my 2N2/40. Pretty much stock except
> added RIT and a TiCK keyer. I am amazed at how good the receiver is!
> Transmitter puts out a solid 2 watts. First QSO with N2OT who was
> running a KW and gave me a 579. I put a picture on the Yahoo group.
>
John,
Thanks for the post and the pix of your rig. Very nice looking! I
see you built the original flavor of the rig instead of the updated
version. Glad you like the way it hears. I've always thought the
design was quite good for a first design effort.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Jim. I know of 2 radios that copied your receiver design. The
first is the KX1 and the other is the AT Sprint lll. I built a 2N2-40 a
couple of years ago and was able to see the copy of your design in both
radios. The ATS-3 has a 4 crystal filter that makes it really NARROW!.
But I can hear anything that's there with eaither radio.
72 karl k5di
Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>w2agn wrote:
>
>
>>I finally got around to building my 2N2/40. Pretty much stock except
>>added RIT and a TiCK keyer. I am amazed at how good the receiver is!
>>Transmitter puts out a solid 2 watts. First QSO with N2OT who was
>>running a KW and gave me a 579. I put a picture on the Yahoo group.
>>
>>
>>
>John,
>
>Thanks for the post and the pix of your rig. Very nice looking! I
>see you built the original flavor of the rig instead of the updated
>version. Glad you like the way it hears. I've always thought the
>design was quite good for a first design effort.
>
>72,
>
>Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Bill -
Isn't that just a great project? I really felt that I accomplished
something when I finally got mine finished. I took it to the Atlanticon a
couple of years ago when we first met.
The receiver is so good that at first I though it wasn't working. It scared
me when I first tuned across a CW signal and it exploded out of the quiet!
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "w2agn" <w2agn@w2agn.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2005 8:57 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Finally!
>
>
> I finally got around to building my 2N2/40. Pretty much stock except
> added RIT and a TiCK keyer. I am amazed at how good the receiver is!
> Transmitter puts out a solid 2 watts. First QSO with N2OT who was
> running a KW and gave me a 579. I put a picture on the Yahoo group.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
On Sun, 13 Feb 2005, karl larsen wrote:
>
> Hi Jim. I know of 2 radios that copied your receiver design. The
> first is the KX1 and the other is the AT Sprint lll. I built a 2N2-40 a
> couple of years ago and was able to see the copy of your design in both
> radios. The ATS-3 has a 4 crystal filter that makes it really NARROW!.
> But I can hear anything that's there with eaither radio.
>
> 72 karl k5di
>
Now I'm not a PHD, so I fail to see how 2 receivers using NE602 mixers,
etc, can be copied from a design using balanced diode mixers, and all
2N2222s. Could someone explain this?
---
+-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ John L. Sielke
|W| |2| |A| |G| |N|
w2agn@w2agn.net +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+
http://w2agn.netThe four biggest parts on both radios are crystals?
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <w2agn@w2agn.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2005 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Finally!
>
> On Sun, 13 Feb 2005, karl larsen wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Jim. I know of 2 radios that copied your receiver design. The
>> first is the KX1 and the other is the AT Sprint lll. I built a 2N2-40 a
>> couple of years ago and was able to see the copy of your design in both
>> radios. The ATS-3 has a 4 crystal filter that makes it really NARROW!.
>> But I can hear anything that's there with eaither radio.
>>
>> 72 karl k5di
>>
> Now I'm not a PHD, so I fail to see how 2 receivers using NE602 mixers,
> etc, can be copied from a design using balanced diode mixers, and all
> 2N2222s. Could someone explain this?
>
>
> ---
> +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ John L. Sielke
> |W| |2| |A| |G| |N| w2agn@w2agn.net
> +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ http://w2agn.net
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, John
wrote:
> Now I'm not a PHD, so I fail to see how 2 receivers using NE602
mixers,
> etc, can be copied from a design using balanced diode mixers, and
all
> 2N2222s. Could someone explain this?
Easy...they both send the received signals into a speaker, or
earphones. That was easy!
LLGroup,
I've just finished procuring all of the parts from Dan's and Mouser with the exception of the 20k 10-turn pot. What would be a good source for that? My junkbox has 5k, 10k, etc, but not 20k.
I'm trying the K3PEG modular challenge. I'll post pics as I progress.
72,
Ted KX4OM
|
3191|3190|2005-02-18 18:30:08|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2-40+ parts: Who's got the pot?|kilocycles wrote:
>
> Group,
>
> I've just finished procuring all of the parts from Dan's and Mouser with the exception of the 20k 10-turn pot. What would be a good source for that? My junkbox has 5k, 10k, etc, but not 20k.
>
> I'm trying the K3PEG modular challenge. I'll post pics as I progress.
>
> 72,
>
> Ted KX4OM
Ted,
Either the 5K or 10K will also work just fine. No sense spending
money for the 20K. It can be bought from Mouser and other sources
for about $10.00 give or take a dollar or two. The resistor that
goes from the center of the pot to one end should be rescaled.
If you use the 10K pot, make it half its value, and the 5K, well,
you get the idea.
72 and keep us posted as you go along. The K3PEG layouts are
very well done!
Jim, K8IQY
On Fri, 18 Feb 2005, kilocycles wrote:
>
>
> Group,
>
> I've just finished procuring all of the parts from Dan's and Mouser with the exception of the 20k 10-turn pot. What would be a good source for that? My junkbox has 5k, 10k, etc, but not 20k.
>
> I'm trying the K3PEG modular challenge. I'll post pics as I progress.
>
> 72,
>
> Ted KX4OM
Not critical. I used a 5K 10 turn from Dan's and it works FB.
---
+-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ John L. Sielke
|W| |2| |A| |G| |N|
w2agn@w2agn.net +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+
http://w2agn.net http://www.blurty.com/~w2agnYou can use a 10K - 20 turn pot just as well. Jim Kortege has posted the
change in one other resistor that permits you to do this without problem. I
seem to have erased that post.
73 de Lee
KM4YY8
----- Original Message -----
From: "kilocycles" <kilocycles@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 5:36 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2-40+ parts: Who's got the pot?
>
>
> Group,
>
> I've just finished procuring all of the parts from Dan's and Mouser with
> the exception of the 20k 10-turn pot. What would be a good source for
> that? My junkbox has 5k, 10k, etc, but not 20k.
>
> I'm trying the K3PEG modular challenge. I'll post pics as I progress.
>
> 72,
>
> Ted KX4OM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
If anyone needs a new, unused Bourns 10K 10-turn pot,
let me know. I have one that I'll send to you for
$10.00.
72 all
Howard Kraus, K2UD
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mailTed,
Are you "matching" your crystals? If you didn't think about that I highly
recommend getting a matched set from someone, or buying a group of crystals
and matching them yourself. I don't have anymore or I would send you a set.
-MAC-
AF4PS
Odessa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: kilocycles [mailto:
kilocycles@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 5:37 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2-40+ parts: Who's got the pot?
Group,
I've just finished procuring all of the parts from Dan's and Mouser with
the exception of the 20k 10-turn pot. What would be a good source for that?
My junkbox has 5k, 10k, etc, but not 20k.
I'm trying the K3PEG modular challenge. I'll post pics as I progress.
72,
Ted KX4OM
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I ordered 15 crystals from Mouser, and I plan to match
them with heathkit frequency counter and Jim's PVXO
and precision crystal test rig. I have all the parts
for those 2 units, but I haven't built them yet.
In the past, I've used a simpler test oscillator that
I built and checked them with my Heathkit freq
counter, but I'm building the more sophisticated
equipment to characterize some surplus 11.0592
crystals to use in the IF of a KD1JV 75 Meter SSB
transceiver.
The ones I ordered from Mouser are Abracon
AB-4.9152MHZ-B2, so if I can't get enough to match
from the 15, I'll at least have the same source to buy
from, as opposed to the situation with the surplus
ones. I have a spec sheet on them. They are HC49/U,
and the specs are:
ESR 50 ohms max for 4.9MHz< 6.0MHz
Shunt capacitance of 7 pF max
Load capacitance of 18 pF
Tolerance +/- 20 ppm
These ought to work with the capacitors shown in the
schematic, right?
Ted KX4OM
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - 250MB free storage. Do more. Manage less.
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250I just completed build of the 2n2-40 receiver section. Mine is built
from all junkbox parts, except for xtals obtained from the Flying
Pigs earlier group buy and torroid cores. My version uses a
mechanical variable cap, a LM386 for the final audio stage, and i am
using 150 pF fixed caps to couple stages in the xtal filter.
I am getting good reception after I bypassed the RF amp. I built the
original version RF amp (common emitter circuit with 1:1 transformer
on the collector. I cannot get RF to flow thru this stage. Bias
voltages on the transistor are 11 volts on collector, 7.5 on base and
6.7 volts on the emitter. I carefully checked transformer
connection, and where the primary and secondary connect they are
coming from opposite ends of the coil. For the RF bypass on the
emitter i used 56 ohms which is about halfway between the two
selectable values on the schmematic. I am baffled as to why i cannot
get this stage to operate.
In looking at the alternate 2n2-40+ version - i am curious what the
LED is doing? Does this circuit behave better than the original?
One final thing - in my unit i am getting some signal coupling into
the IF amp between mixer and xtal filter. The transistor used here
has a metal lid, and when i touch it the coupling goes away. Also a
cap to ground has the same effect, so i am install one from case to
ground.
Anyway on my way to debugging receiver before i start to build
transmitter. Thanks for any leads or related experience.
curt
|
3198|3197|2005-02-24 18:44:51|Jim Kortge|Re: RF Amplifier Difficulty|miltonhome wrote:
>
> I just completed build of the 2n2-40 receiver section. Mine is built
> from all junkbox parts, except for xtals obtained from the Flying
> Pigs earlier group buy and torroid cores. My version uses a
> mechanical variable cap, a LM386 for the final audio stage, and i am
> using 150 pF fixed caps to couple stages in the xtal filter.
That all sounds reasonable to me.
>
> I am getting good reception after I bypassed the RF amp. I built the
> original version RF amp (common emitter circuit with 1:1 transformer
> on the collector.
Yes, but its supposed to be hooked up to do 4:1 impedance step
down to the mixer. Do you have it that way?
I cannot get RF to flow thru this stage. Bias
> voltages on the transistor are 11 volts on collector, 7.5 on base and
> 6.7 volts on the emitter.
That also sounds about right.
I carefully checked transformer
> connection, and where the primary and secondary connect they are
> coming from opposite ends of the coil.
Well it ought to be the finish of one winding connected to the
start of the other winding, and that becomes the tap that goes
through the coupling capacitor and on to the mixer stage.
For the RF bypass on the
> emitter i used 56 ohms which is about halfway between the two
> selectable values on the schmematic.
I think the term RF bypass is really the emitter resistor that
you've picked to be between the two values shown for +10 and +20
dB of gain. That should be OK too.
I am baffled as to why i cannot
> get this stage to operate.
Well I'm guessing something isn't connected up correctly, or
it's oscillating like a banshee, and not amplifying. A scope or
RF probe should tell you if it is oscillating.
>
> In looking at the alternate 2n2-40+ version - i am curious what the
> LED is doing?
That is the bias supply for the grounded base (for RF purposes)
amplifier. It's a nice way to get a regulated voltage supply of
1.8 volts, and some color to boot.
Does this circuit behave better than the original?
Yes, and no. If built correctly, it won't oscillate and
provides 12 dB of gain and no additional noise, since all
of the feedback is via a transformer. If the transformer
isn't wound correctly, i.e., there is a phasing mistake, it
will not amplify at all, but instead oscillate like mad.
Several on the list have found that out! :-)
>
> One final thing - in my unit i am getting some signal coupling into
> the IF amp between mixer and xtal filter. The transistor used here
> has a metal lid, and when i touch it the coupling goes away. Also a
> cap to ground has the same effect, so i am install one from case to
> ground.
Interesting. I wonder if others have seen that coupling also. I
don't think I've seen it in any of my rigs. I'm wondering what
the coupling mechanism is at this juncture.
>
> Anyway on my way to debugging receiver before i start to build
> transmitter.
A good approach.
Thanks for any leads or related experience.
See above.
72 and keep us posted on progress or ongoing problems,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim
thanks for the quick reply and information. after posting i surfed
the archives and discovered the background of the new RF amplifier.
the explanation of the circuit design and its benefits convinced me
to give my unit a new RF amp. as i used the same transistor as
before, its a mystery why i could not get the other circuit to work
but that's ok. i am using a commercial mixer for this first mix so
the transformation is already in there. (while i started project
with original sn2-40 schematic i discovered the plus version before i
got to the product detector -- it uses the plus design with four
diodes.
eventually i will measure the IF bandpass with spectrogram to see if
i made the right choice for the fixed coupling capacitors in the
crystal filter - if not i will add a little more capacitance.
thanks for the LED explanation -- now i know it has a different diode
drop then a silicon diode. i will add some more LEDs to my junkbox.
i did solder the IF amplifier transistor "can" before the xtal filter
to a .01 uF cap to ground and that did cure things -- so probably my
layout (which is unique to mine). i also discovered BFO leaks into
the VFO at one tuning spot -- so i will be reorrienting the two
associated inductors.
my last full homebrew project was a ways back - the Ugly Weekender.
while some of the design techniques are similar, the availability now
of low cost crystals makes for a much more pleasant receiver! it
sounds great!
thanks again. enjoy your visit to Baltimore and i will try to meet
you there.
curt
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> >
> > I am getting good reception after I bypassed the RF amp. I built
the
> > original version RF amp (common emitter circuit with 1:1
transformer
> > on the collector.
>
> Yes, but its supposed to be hooked up to do 4:1 impedance step
> down to the mixer. Do you have it that way?
>
>
> > In looking at the alternate 2n2-40+ version - i am curious what
the
> > LED is doing?
>
> That is the bias supply for the grounded base (for RF purposes)
> amplifier. It's a nice way to get a regulated voltage supply of
> 1.8 volts, and some color to boot.
>
> Does this circuit behave better than the original?
>
> >
> > One final thing - in my unit i am getting some signal coupling
into
> > the IF amp between mixer and xtal filter. The transistor used
here
> > has a metal lid, and when i touch it the coupling goes away.
Also a
> > cap to ground has the same effect, so i am install one from case
to
> > ground.
>
> Interesting. I wonder if others have seen that coupling also. I
> don't think I've seen it in any of my rigs. I'm wondering what
> the coupling mechanism is at this juncture.
> >
> > Anyway on my way to debugging receiver before i start to build
> > transmitter.
>
> A good approach.
>
> Thanks for any leads or related experience.
>
> See above.
>
> 72 and keep us posted on progress or ongoing problems,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Ted Bruce wrote:
> I ordered 15 crystals from Mouser, and I plan to match
> them with heathkit frequency counter and Jim's PVXO
> and precision crystal test rig. I have all the parts
> for those 2 units, but I haven't built them yet.
Those two units will do a fine job in matching the
crystals. Lots of those kits out there yet not built!
>
> In the past, I've used a simpler test oscillator that
> I built and checked them with my Heathkit freq
> counter,
That approach doesn't do a very good job usually.
but I'm building the more sophisticated
> equipment to characterize some surplus 11.0592
> crystals to use in the IF of a KD1JV 75 Meter SSB
> transceiver.
That's a neat rig that Steve designed.
>
> The ones I ordered from Mouser are Abracon
> AB-4.9152MHZ-B2, so if I can't get enough to match
> from the 15, I'll at least have the same source to buy
> from, as opposed to the situation with the surplus
> ones.
That's why I never use surplus crystal in one of
my designs. If I can't buy more, they are out of
the running as a candidate part.
I have a spec sheet on them. They are HC49/U,
> and the specs are:
>
> ESR 50 ohms max for 4.9MHz< 6.0MHz
The measured will be much lower, probably around 9-10 ohms.
> Shunt capacitance of 7 pF max
Measure will be about 3.6 pF I'm guessing.
> Load capacitance of 18 pF
> Tolerance +/- 20 ppm
>
> These ought to work with the capacitors shown in the
> schematic, right?
Yes, but since they are designed for 18 pF load, the center
of the filter passband will be a bit lower in frequency than
a filter built with a "series" designated crystal. That's
not a problem as long as you use crystals of the same type
for the Rx and Tx local oscillators.
Let us know how is all goes with the measurements etc.
Jim, K8IQY
miltonhome wrote:
>
> Jim
Hi again Curt,
>
> thanks for the quick reply and information. after posting i surfed
> the archives and discovered the background of the new RF amplifier.
> the explanation of the circuit design and its benefits convinced me
> to give my unit a new RF amp. as i used the same transistor as
> before, its a mystery why i could not get the other circuit to work
> but that's ok.
Yes, it will go down in the books as one of life's mysteries! :-)
I really like the Norton amps. Used them a lot.
i am using a commercial mixer for this first mix so
> the transformation is already in there. (while i started project
> with original sn2-40 schematic i discovered the plus version before i
> got to the product detector -- it uses the plus design with four
> diodes.
The added diodes in the revised version provides more output
and better attenuation of unwanted mixing products. A good
trade off for a couple of nickel diodes.
>
> eventually i will measure the IF bandpass with spectrogram to see if
> i made the right choice for the fixed coupling capacitors in the
> crystal filter - if not i will add a little more capacitance.
Yes, that is the right approach.
>
> thanks for the LED explanation -- now i know it has a different diode
> drop then a silicon diode. i will add some more LEDs to my junkbox.
Actually, most LED have a forward drop of 1.8 to maybe 2.2 volts
for the common, simple diodes. They make nice low voltage regulators,
especially the low current LED that only draw a few milliamps, like
the ones that I use.
>
> i did solder the IF amplifier transistor "can" before the xtal filter
> to a .01 uF cap to ground and that did cure things -- so probably my
> layout (which is unique to mine).
I'm wondering what that does to the overall frequency response of
that stage, which should be the post-mixer amplifier if it is the
stage before the crystal filter. If the collector is also the
case, then most if not all of the RF that should be going to the
crystal filter is getting shunted to ground, and the receiver
should be quite deaf.
i also discovered BFO leaks into
> the VFO at one tuning spot -- so i will be reorrienting the two
> associated inductors.
That may not fix it. There is at least one birdie in the frequency
mixing scheme that tends to be around. It is formed by something like
the 3rd harmonic of the VFO and the 9th harmonic of the BFO. I've tried
several fixes to get rid of it in my rig, and nothing has been very
successful. I finally decided to not worry about it and get on with
life.
>
> my last full homebrew project was a ways back - the Ugly Weekender.
> while some of the design techniques are similar, the availability now
> of low cost crystals makes for a much more pleasant receiver!
I'm simply amazed and delighted at the good crystal filters that
can be made from really inexpensive computer crystals. It is very
easy to build a 4-6 pole filters that rock in terms of performance,
especially the narrower CW filters.
it
> sounds great!
Yes.....
>
> thanks again. enjoy your visit to Baltimore and i will try to meet
> you there.
Oh, great. Do you live out that way, or are you really in 8 land
and going out as I am? I really have a good time at Atlanticon.
Well actually, I have a really good time at all of the QRP
gatherings! :-)
72 and TTUL,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....is the receiver now receiving OK? You really didn't say.
Jim,
It never fails to amaze me. This list will go semi-dormant for a month or two
and then all of a sudden it starts taking off again....and as usual, you are
HERE answering questions.
You are one of my favorite hams! Thanks for being one of the best elmers
ever.
73 de KB9BVN
|
3203|3202|2005-02-26 11:13:24|Jim Kortge|Re: Thanks Jim|brian wrote:
> Jim,
Greetings Brian,
>
> It never fails to amaze me. This list will go semi-dormant for a month or two
> and then all of a sudden it starts taking off again....and as usual, you are
> HERE answering questions.
I do my best to try to keep up with the guys and gals who are
building my designs and need help. Along the way, I learn as
much from them as they do from me, so it is a win-win situation.
I too am somewhat amazed at the number of folks who have a stash
of parts from group buys that are 2 and 3 years old who all of a
sudden finally get the time or motivation to build a 2N2/XX rig.
Kind of amazing and delightful......
>
> You are one of my favorite hams! Thanks for being one of the best elmers
> ever.
What nice things to say about me. I find that doing what I do gives
me lots of personal satisfaction, and I'm really glad that I don't
have to work for a living anymore and have the time and energy to
play radio whenever I want, along with my other hobbies of music,
and taking care of the ospreys (www.owsem.org) and things the really
matter to me that this stage of my life. Cycling too! Life is
really good!
72, kind regards Brian, and many thanks for your nice compliments,
Jim, K8IQY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Thanks Jim
> I too am somewhat amazed at the number of folks who have a stash
> of parts from group buys that are 2 and 3 years old who all of a
> sudden finally get the time or motivation to build a 2N2/XX rig.
> Kind of amazing and delightful......
>
I plead guilty here. I've had a collection of parts, a set of K8IQY matched
crystals, and (two) Arizona ScQRPions "silkscreened" boards sitting around
few a few years now. Sacrificed my workbench to kids moving back home a few
times......... (really)........ I have to get going on it.
> > You are one of my favorite hams! Thanks for being one of the best
elmers
> > ever.
I'll second THAT !
I met Jim for the first time at Atlanticon 2000, and again at Lobstercon
2004. He is one of the nicest, kindest, and unassuming gentlemen I have
known. His QRP Hall of Fame membership is well deserved !!
Dick K2JQ
The receiver is working well now. But the spur you mentioned was
raucus until i made some refinements. I had vfo and bfo close - so i
moved them apart. Then i discovered that this spur was magnetically
coupling into the most sensitive spot of the receiver - the
transformer in front of the cascode was less than an inch from the
vfo coil ! i moved them apart .... then i added a one by one inch
way. that has it down to a whisper and i can shorten wires to my
variable cap to reduce it some more. my birdee is occurring at
around 7020 kHz +/- 2 kHz.
I opened up my old version of Hayward and Demaw, and now I see how
the 4:1 transformer works - i had it wired correctly ... but that RF
amp is history for now.
i have not investigated the transistor can, but i think it is
isolated from all three terminals - but not well enough. i had no
signal loss when i coupled it ground. literally when i coupled it to
myself i supplied enough capacitance to clean it up. probably my
layout. i have learned how not to lay out a superhet!
my 8-call is my original from high school days -- since college i
have lived in Maryland. a little clean up on the receiver, and we
will be on to the transmitter. as i have some 2N2219 devices i may
try two of them in parallel for the final - doing my homework on
this. other than this, nothing else different contemplated. maybe
another builder will liven things up here as i am building at a slow
pace here.
curt
|
3206|3197|2005-02-27 09:14:20|Lee Mairs|Re: RF Amplifier Difficulty|Curt -
I had/have the same birdie in my 2n2-40. My solution was to build a Faraday
shield wall separating the VFO from the rest of the receiver circuitry. I
can still here it if I listen carefully, but it doesn't affect operation
near that frequency.
I am using metal 2n2222 as the transmitter driver followed by three 2N2222s
in parallel for the final amplifier. You can find Jim's schematic for this
in the latest 2N2-40 schematics on the web site.
This was the most rewarding project I ever attempted. What made it even
more so was sharing our building experiences with a W3 in Southern Maryland.
He was in the last throes of Parkinson's Disease, yet he got his radio
completed and operated it daily until his death a month or so later. Wish I
could remember his name/call... He got certificate #26 and I got #27 if I
remember correctly.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "miltonhome" <wb8yyy@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 9:32 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: RF Amplifier Difficulty
>
>
> The receiver is working well now. But the spur you mentioned was
> raucus until i made some refinements. I had vfo and bfo close - so i
> moved them apart. Then i discovered that this spur was magnetically
> coupling into the most sensitive spot of the receiver - the
> transformer in front of the cascode was less than an inch from the
> vfo coil ! i moved them apart .... then i added a one by one inch
> way. that has it down to a whisper and i can shorten wires to my
> variable cap to reduce it some more. my birdee is occurring at
> around 7020 kHz +/- 2 kHz.
>
> I opened up my old version of Hayward and Demaw, and now I see how
> the 4:1 transformer works - i had it wired correctly ... but that RF
> amp is history for now.
>
> i have not investigated the transistor can, but i think it is
> isolated from all three terminals - but not well enough. i had no
> signal loss when i coupled it ground. literally when i coupled it to
> myself i supplied enough capacitance to clean it up. probably my
> layout. i have learned how not to lay out a superhet!
>
> my 8-call is my original from high school days -- since college i
> have lived in Maryland. a little clean up on the receiver, and we
> will be on to the transmitter. as i have some 2N2219 devices i may
> try two of them in parallel for the final - doing my homework on
> this. other than this, nothing else different contemplated. maybe
> another builder will liven things up here as i am building at a slow
> pace here.
>
> curt
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Lee
thanks for message. i have the birdee greatly reduced. i put my
cascode IF amp in the middle of the board - probably the worst
possible choice!
i did my build with nearly all junk parts, so i started with nearly
no 2n2222 devices so none have been used so far (i may use one to
drive the PA - maybe!). i have a lot of assorted transistors in the
larger package, and some heatsinks that size laying around. hence my
desire to use something different - and take my lumps if necessary.
i suspect the ballast resisitor is the bulk of the design needed. i
have been looking up these obscure 2n numbers on the web and
everything this size seems to dissipate around a watt and have
similar max freq specs. so we will see what we get!
yes nice that we can all interact over pieces of silicon and then
bounce the outputs thru layers in the sky. i briefly met you last
year at Atlanticon, but i was under the weather a bit so i limited my
time and interaction. can't ignore folk who have Y's in their call -
in a pile-up some folk have QSOs before we finish sending our call!
73, curt
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Lee Mairs wrote:
> Curt -
> I had/have the same birdie in my 2n2-40. My solution was to build
a Faraday
> shield wall separating the VFO from the rest of the receiver
circuitry. I
> can still here it if I listen carefully, but it doesn't affect
operation
> near that frequency.
>
> I am using metal 2n2222 as the transmitter driver followed by three
2N2222s
> in parallel for the final amplifier. You can find Jim's schematic
for this
> in the latest 2N2-40 schematics on the web site.
>
> This was the most rewarding project I ever attempted. What made it
even
> more so was sharing our building experiences with a W3 in Southern
Maryland.
> He was in the last throes of Parkinson's Disease, yet he got his
radio
> completed and operated it daily until his death a month or so
later. Wish I
> could remember his name/call... He got certificate #26 and I got
#27 if I
> remember correctly.
>
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY/8
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "miltonhome"
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 9:32 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: RF Amplifier Difficulty
>
>
> >
> >
> > The receiver is working well now. But the spur you mentioned was
> > raucus until i made some refinements. I had vfo and bfo close -
so i
> > moved them apart. Then i discovered that this spur was
magnetically
> > coupling into the most sensitive spot of the receiver - the
> > transformer in front of the cascode was less than an inch from the
> > vfo coil ! i moved them apart .... then i added a one by one inch
> > way. that has it down to a whisper and i can shorten wires to my
> > variable cap to reduce it some more. my birdee is occurring at
> > around 7020 kHz +/- 2 kHz.
> >
> > I opened up my old version of Hayward and Demaw, and now I see how
> > the 4:1 transformer works - i had it wired correctly ... but that
RF
> > amp is history for now.
> >
> > i have not investigated the transistor can, but i think it is
> > isolated from all three terminals - but not well enough. i had no
> > signal loss when i coupled it ground. literally when i coupled
it to
> > myself i supplied enough capacitance to clean it up. probably my
> > layout. i have learned how not to lay out a superhet!
> >
> > my 8-call is my original from high school days -- since college i
> > have lived in Maryland. a little clean up on the receiver, and we
> > will be on to the transmitter. as i have some 2N2219 devices i
may
> > try two of them in parallel for the final - doing my homework on
> > this. other than this, nothing else different contemplated.
maybe
> > another builder will liven things up here as i am building at a
slow
> > pace here.
> >
> > curt
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
Hope to see you at Atlanticon again this year!
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "miltonhome" <wb8yyy@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 2:14 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: RF Amplifier Difficulty
>
>
> Lee
>
> thanks for message. i have the birdee greatly reduced. i put my
> cascode IF amp in the middle of the board - probably the worst
> possible choice!
>
> i did my build with nearly all junk parts, so i started with nearly
> no 2n2222 devices so none have been used so far (i may use one to
> drive the PA - maybe!). i have a lot of assorted transistors in the
> larger package, and some heatsinks that size laying around. hence my
> desire to use something different - and take my lumps if necessary.
> i suspect the ballast resisitor is the bulk of the design needed. i
> have been looking up these obscure 2n numbers on the web and
> everything this size seems to dissipate around a watt and have
> similar max freq specs. so we will see what we get!
>
> yes nice that we can all interact over pieces of silicon and then
> bounce the outputs thru layers in the sky. i briefly met you last
> year at Atlanticon, but i was under the weather a bit so i limited my
> time and interaction. can't ignore folk who have Y's in their call -
> in a pile-up some folk have QSOs before we finish sending our call!
>
> 73, curt
>
>
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Lee Mairs wrote:
>> Curt -
>> I had/have the same birdie in my 2n2-40. My solution was to build
> a Faraday
>> shield wall separating the VFO from the rest of the receiver
> circuitry. I
>> can still here it if I listen carefully, but it doesn't affect
> operation
>> near that frequency.
>>
>> I am using metal 2n2222 as the transmitter driver followed by three
> 2N2222s
>> in parallel for the final amplifier. You can find Jim's schematic
> for this
>> in the latest 2N2-40 schematics on the web site.
>>
>> This was the most rewarding project I ever attempted. What made it
> even
>> more so was sharing our building experiences with a W3 in Southern
> Maryland.
>> He was in the last throes of Parkinson's Disease, yet he got his
> radio
>> completed and operated it daily until his death a month or so
> later. Wish I
>> could remember his name/call... He got certificate #26 and I got
> #27 if I
>> remember correctly.
>>
>> 73 de Lee
>> KM4YY/8
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "miltonhome"
>> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 9:32 PM
>> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: RF Amplifier Difficulty
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > The receiver is working well now. But the spur you mentioned was
>> > raucus until i made some refinements. I had vfo and bfo close -
> so i
>> > moved them apart. Then i discovered that this spur was
> magnetically
>> > coupling into the most sensitive spot of the receiver - the
>> > transformer in front of the cascode was less than an inch from the
>> > vfo coil ! i moved them apart .... then i added a one by one inch
>> > way. that has it down to a whisper and i can shorten wires to my
>> > variable cap to reduce it some more. my birdee is occurring at
>> > around 7020 kHz +/- 2 kHz.
>> >
>> > I opened up my old version of Hayward and Demaw, and now I see how
>> > the 4:1 transformer works - i had it wired correctly ... but that
> RF
>> > amp is history for now.
>> >
>> > i have not investigated the transistor can, but i think it is
>> > isolated from all three terminals - but not well enough. i had no
>> > signal loss when i coupled it ground. literally when i coupled
> it to
>> > myself i supplied enough capacitance to clean it up. probably my
>> > layout. i have learned how not to lay out a superhet!
>> >
>> > my 8-call is my original from high school days -- since college i
>> > have lived in Maryland. a little clean up on the receiver, and we
>> > will be on to the transmitter. as i have some 2N2219 devices i
> may
>> > try two of them in parallel for the final - doing my homework on
>> > this. other than this, nothing else different contemplated.
> maybe
>> > another builder will liven things up here as i am building at a
> slow
>> > pace here.
>> >
>> > curt
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
miltonhome wrote:
>
> The receiver is working well now. But the spur you mentioned was
> raucus until i made some refinements. I had vfo and bfo close - so i
> moved them apart. Then i discovered that this spur was magnetically
> coupling into the most sensitive spot of the receiver - the
> transformer in front of the cascode was less than an inch from the
> vfo coil ! i moved them apart .... then i added a one by one inch
> way. that has it down to a whisper and i can shorten wires to my
> variable cap to reduce it some more. my birdee is occurring at
> around 7020 kHz +/- 2 kHz.
Sounds like you did all the right things to fix it Curt. Good
going.
>
> I opened up my old version of Hayward and Demaw, and now I see how
> the 4:1 transformer works - i had it wired correctly ... but that RF
> amp is history for now.
That's ok, the version you have now is better anyway.
>
> i have not investigated the transistor can, but i think it is
> isolated from all three terminals - but not well enough. i had no
> signal loss when i coupled it ground. literally when i coupled it to
> myself i supplied enough capacitance to clean it up. probably my
> layout. i have learned how not to lay out a superhet!
Most interesting. Most of the time the metal case on a transistor
is connected to the collector, and occasionally the emitter, but
not very many just isolated. Oh well, always something new to
learn.
>
> my 8-call is my original from high school days
When and where was that?
-- since college i
> have lived in Maryland. a little clean up on the receiver, and we
> will be on to the transmitter.
Great......
as i have some 2N2219 devices i may
> try two of them in parallel for the final - doing my homework on
> this. other than this, nothing else different contemplated.
The 2N2219s will work very well. Essentially a 2N2222A in a larger
case and can take a bit more abuse. You will probably be able to
run 2 watts with 2 of them without a meltdown. Put the 33 volt
Zener diode in as shown in the 40+ design so that high SWR
doesn't eat them. No joy in replacing finals.
maybe
> another builder will liven things up here as i am building at a slow
> pace here.
Well you've stirred a few from slumber! Maybe more will join
the fray.
72 and thanks for the great posts on your questions and progress.
Is this fun or what!
Jim, K8IQY
Hi all,
I don't think I'm going to be able to build the 2n2-40 in the
foreseeable future so I'm offering up the parts kit I received as part
of the FPQRP group buy. I've only opened the bags to add the parts
from the supplemental mailings.
For additional details visit
http://www.qsl.net/af4ps/2n2-40.html For $73 I'll sent it via USPS Priority.
Thanks & 73,
Michael [K6MMC]
Michael,
Are the 2n2-40 parts still available?
Jim McElroy, NS1E
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3212|3212|2005-03-09 00:37:53|Mike Schettler|Steve Weber Digital Dial with 2N2 Rigs|I recently built up one of Steve Weber's new digital dial kits, with the intention of installing
it in my 2N2/30. However, the digital display seems to generate so much multiplexer
noise that the receiver becomes virtually unusable.
Has anyone interfaced a KD1JV Digital Dial to a 2N2 rig and managed to keep the
multiplexing noise down to a minimal level?
Thanks
Mike Schettler WA6MER
|
3213|3212|2005-03-09 08:29:48|Bob Miller|Re: Steve Weber Digital Dial with 2N2 Rigs|Mike,
I put one in a 2N2-20 and have the same problem and I know others have had the same problem. Wayne NB6M suggested a 3300 elect. cap across the DC line and that did help a lot but some hash is still there. If you power the display with a 9V battery the noise will go away completly, or at least my noise did.
Good luck,
Bob
WB6KWT
Mike Schettler <
mschettler@dslextreme.com> wrote:
I recently built up one of Steve Weber's new digital dial kits, with the intention of installing
it in my 2N2/30. However, the digital display seems to generate so much multiplexer
noise that the receiver becomes virtually unusable.
Has anyone interfaced a KD1JV Digital Dial to a 2N2 rig and managed to keep the
multiplexing noise down to a minimal level?
Thanks
Mike Schettler WA6MER
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Mike
i used the digital dial in testing my 2n2-40 in progress, and noted
same thing. i had both plugged into the same power supply ... first
i would experimentally try power supply isolation - that is using
separate supplies. this will tell us how much the problem is power
supply coupling, and how much decoupling here will help.
second, provide as much isolation as possible between the LO signal
and the digital dial input - i doubt if a capacitor is enough since
the the digital clock operations take place in the HF spectrum - so
some resistance is also needed in the path (or electronics to
increase the impedance of this path).
as the K2 has a similar arrangement, i am sure the problem is
solveable but it will take us some effort. as i have multiple qrp
rigs, i am planning to "some day" install suitable interfaces (VFO
and BFO) to the digital dial - but meanwhile its a nifty piece of
test equipment!
curt
PS to the list - status of my build:
receiver complete, VFO/BFO leakage into receive cascode amp largely
solved by shielding thus far. still need to add QSK circuit - i am
going to try N-channel FET with a PNP circuit (similar to other
published designs) once i examine on resistance of the FETs i have.
transmit board complete, awaiting testing. i see i can power up
stages at a time since i have not wired up the incoming power ...
much to look forward to when i get the time.
will also need to realize a RIT circuit around parts i have - but
this will likely be after first QSO's with rig.
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Schettler"
wrote:
>
> I recently built up one of Steve Weber's new digital dial kits,
with the intention of installing
> it in my 2N2/30. However, the digital display seems to generate so
much multiplexer
> noise that the receiver becomes virtually unusable.
>
> Has anyone interfaced a KD1JV Digital Dial to a 2N2 rig and managed
to keep the
> multiplexing noise down to a minimal level?
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike Schettler WA6MER
Mike Schettler wrote:
>
> I recently built up one of Steve Weber's new digital dial kits, with the intention of installing
> it in my 2N2/30. However, the digital display seems to generate so much multiplexer
> noise that the receiver becomes virtually unusable.
>
> Has anyone interfaced a KD1JV Digital Dial to a 2N2 rig and managed to keep the
> multiplexing noise down to a minimal level?
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike Schettler WA6MER
Greetings all,
I know the solution for the problem. It's implemented in
the 2N2/20, and should work fine with the other 2N2/XX
rigs. Here is what I did to isolate the DC supply from
picking up the hash generated by the display.
I've got the older version of the KD1JV display, the one with
the horizontal board, and the vertical display, but the newer
one should work the same. I glued a Manhattan pad to the
top of the PC board, a short distance from the 3-pin header,
so that I could also pick up a ground on that header. The
incoming 13.8 VDC supply comes to that added pad, and a
3.3 uF tantalum capacitor is soldered from that added pad
to ground. A tantalum capacitor should be used as it
has very low inductance. The value isn't critical, but
the larger the better in general.
From the added pad, a 56 ohm 1/2 watt carbon resistor is
soldered to the normal DC input PC board pad. That resistor
increases the power supply impedance, so that more filtering
can be done. The additional filtering is done with another
3.3 uF tantalum from the other end of the 56 Ohm resistor
to the adjacent ground pad on the PC board. Also in parallel
with the second 3.3 uF capacitor is a 100 uF electrolytic
capacitor. The tantalum capacitor takes out the VHF hash,
and the electrolytic takes out the HF hash.
Once these changes were implemented, I could not hear the
display running in my rig. Without them, I couldn't hear
a signal below about S9, so the little filter really works
well.
The drive to the display comes from the TxVFO signal through
a 1 pF capacitor and on to the center conductor of a piece of
mini-coax. The shield of the coax is only grounded at the
display end. I pick that signal up at the Tx mixer location
before the voltage divider composed of R68 and R69.
Hope this info helps. I'm interested in results other
get.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
All,
I tried Jim's noise filter tonite on my 2N2/30, and it works great! I didn't have 3.3uF
tantalums, so I used 4.7uF aluminum caps, plus the 100uF. Filter parts all mounted on the
baskside of the board. The multiplexing noise is gone. I'll get some tantalums this
weekend and clean it up a bit, but this is a good fix. Also, Jim says to use a 1/2 watt
resistor, but a 1/4 watt works fine. I had a twisted pair of wires feeding the VFO input to
the display, but will switch over to RG174 later too. Even so, the noise was reduced to
nearly nothing at all. Recommended!
Thanks Jim,
Mike WA6MER
> I've got the older version of the KD1JV display, the one with
> the horizontal board, and the vertical display, but the newer
> one should work the same. I glued a Manhattan pad to the
> top of the PC board, a short distance from the 3-pin header,
> so that I could also pick up a ground on that header. The
> incoming 13.8 VDC supply comes to that added pad, and a
> 3.3 uF tantalum capacitor is soldered from that added pad
> to ground. A tantalum capacitor should be used as it
> has very low inductance. The value isn't critical, but
> the larger the better in general.
>
> From the added pad, a 56 ohm 1/2 watt carbon resistor is
> soldered to the normal DC input PC board pad. That resistor
> increases the power supply impedance, so that more filtering
> can be done. The additional filtering is done with another
> 3.3 uF tantalum from the other end of the 56 Ohm resistor
> to the adjacent ground pad on the PC board. Also in parallel
> with the second 3.3 uF capacitor is a 100 uF electrolytic
> capacitor. The tantalum capacitor takes out the VHF hash,
> and the electrolytic takes out the HF hash.
>
> Once these changes were implemented, I could not hear the
> display running in my rig. Without them, I couldn't hear
> a signal below about S9, so the little filter really works
> well.
>
> The drive to the display comes from the TxVFO signal through
> a 1 pF capacitor and on to the center conductor of a piece of
> mini-coax. The shield of the coax is only grounded at the
> display end. I pick that signal up at the Tx mixer location
> before the voltage divider composed of R68 and R69.
>
> Hope this info helps. I'm interested in results other
> get.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
Mike Schettler wrote:
>
> All,
> I tried Jim's noise filter tonite on my 2N2/30, and it works great! I didn't have 3.3uF
> tantalums, so I used 4.7uF aluminum caps, plus the 100uF.
Those 4.7 uF Tantalums are better than the 3.3 uF that I had. Use what you've
got in the junk box, but bigger is better!
Filter parts all mounted on the
> baskside of the board. The multiplexing noise is gone. I'll get some tantalums this
> weekend and clean it up a bit, but this is a good fix. Also, Jim says to use a 1/2 watt
> resistor, but a 1/4 watt works fine.
I think Steve's latter version draws much less power than the older
version that I have. A 1/4 watt resistor will let out the smoke
in my version. I know, I tried it..... :-)
I had a twisted pair of wires feeding the VFO input to
> the display, but will switch over to RG174 later too. Even so, the noise was reduced to
> nearly nothing at all. Recommended!
Good to hear that it worked on your rig Mike. Thanks for the post
and the feedback to the gang.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
I now have all the parts for my 2N2-40+, and I'm
almost ready to start matching crystals. Working from
your schematic of the Precision VXO, I made the
circuit board pattern using PhotoShop. One question:
can you give me the part number and source for the PC
mount BNC?
I'm ready to iron the PVXO pattern onto a PC board
using Press 'n Peel Blue. I also have all the parts
for the crystal test circuit, which I will build
Manhattan-style. I got one of those punches from
Harbor Freight. I couldn't imagine building the K3PEG
2N2-40+ board without an easy way to make little round
pads!
Also, if everything goes as planned with the 2n2-40+,
I have a spreadsheet of the components sorted by
component ID, by component type and value, buy
quantity for each component type and value, and by
board number for the K3PEG Extreme Manhattan version.
I will QA the spreadsheet during the build and then
upload it to the Files section.
72,
Ted KX4OM
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/Ted,
Thanks for making the effort! I appreciate it.
73 de KB9BVN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Bruce" <kilocycles@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 1:13 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] PVXO & 2N2-40
>
> Jim,
> I now have all the parts for my 2N2-40+, and I'm
> almost ready to start matching crystals. Working from
> your schematic of the Precision VXO, I made the
> circuit board pattern using PhotoShop. One question:
> can you give me the part number and source for the PC
> mount BNC?
>
> I'm ready to iron the PVXO pattern onto a PC board
> using Press 'n Peel Blue. I also have all the parts
> for the crystal test circuit, which I will build
> Manhattan-style. I got one of those punches from
> Harbor Freight. I couldn't imagine building the K3PEG
> 2N2-40+ board without an easy way to make little round
> pads!
>
> Also, if everything goes as planned with the 2n2-40+,
> I have a spreadsheet of the components sorted by
> component ID, by component type and value, buy
> quantity for each component type and value, and by
> board number for the K3PEG Extreme Manhattan version.
> I will QA the spreadsheet during the build and then
> upload it to the Files section.
>
> 72,
> Ted KX4OM
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hi Ted and group,
FB on starting your 2n2/40+ build! I see that you're planning to
work from my modular EM layout provided here in the group's 'files'
section. I'm happy to hear that someone will make use of it.
For those of you building the 2n2/40+ from my single board layout,
you may eliminate a dozen or more Manhattan pads by merely
lengthening a few toroid wires. Doing so will allow you jump over a
few pads associated with 'blue' jumper wires, and save time too.
I use an approx. 1/8" diameter pad for my Manhattan construction.
The Harbor Freight hand punch is a good tool; however, to improve
the flatness of punched pad take a flat file and file away that
little point on the punch face of the die set you choose to use for
your Manhattan pads. Be careful and don't file the punche's cutting
edge. This modification was noted by others a while back. Leave the
other punch/die sets alone unless you choose to use the for
Manhattan construction.
When I created the EM layout for the 2n2/40+ with MS PowerPoint I
did so at 300 or 400X magnification. So, distances looked great, and
I elected to place extra pads in the layout especially near toroid
transformers for the sake of mechanical stability. Look at the
connections for T3, T4, T8, T9, T13 and T14 and you'll see what I
mean.
I later found that if I wound at least one of the toroid windings
with 26 ga wire that would provide more support for the toroid.
However, I would not do this for bifilar or trifilar transformers.
On another note, my first cut at the 2n2/20 layout was proofed by
Bob Miller, WB6KWT. He is responsible for finding my mistakes early
on. Thanks Bob! Bob did a nice job on his recent 2n2/40+ build.
The first person to point out my excessive use of jumpers in my
2n2/20 EM layout was Jim Kortge. Jim was kind enough to proof read
my second generation of my 2n2/20 EM layout and give me a few more
suggestions. Thanks Jim!
After spending an excessive amount of time installing those dreaded
jumper wires on my own 2n2/20 build, I realized that Jim was right
(naturally), and a lot of extra work could be eliminated. So, I did
another revision to the 2n2/20 EM layout and eliminated many
jumpers. After I get the latest layout finalized and proof read I'll
release it to this group.
Right now I'm building and troubleshooting my 2n2/20. I hope to have
it ready for Atlanticon 2005.
72, Larry - K3PEG (a soon to cured Jumperholic)
|
3221|3221|2005-03-14 13:30:36|William Wood|Mostly OT:|Greetings Everyone
It's been a while since I posted any messages on my Ham Radio
Reflectors. I still get them, and often do read, but have been pretty
busy elsewhere, so have not devoted too much time to the subject. I do
have my 2n2222 rig started, but progress is slow, and I am saving
surface mounted parts for my second version of the project.
A little over two years ago, I joined the Navy MARS group and have
often signed into their morning and evening nets, and now have
volunteered to set up a switch for RTTY etc, for the group. Have a
dedicated computer for this etc, so if anyone has any hints to help me
do a good job here they would be welcome. I know this and the next
subject are way off topic, so I beg the moderators indulgences here. I
wish I could clone myself, as I have so many interests. QRP, Astronomy,
MARS, Guitar, several languages, of which I will probably never amount
to anything with... : ) and of course Boat Anchors, radio kits and the
like.
But now I come to the reason for this post. I said all the other
stuff to let you know that I'm hoping this is not considered spam...
Along with old time radio, many of us love old time radio programs. I
belong to about 40 OTR Yahoo groups... Most of these groups, I only
monitor, I do not participate because there is only one of me... : )
OTR stands for Old Time Radio, and is usually talking about the
programs, not the radios themselves. I think I know of about 50 hams in
the community, and was hoping to find a few more amongst this group.
There is absolutely nothing to buy or sell, the joining of these groups
is free, and you would only partake in the programs that would of course
interest you. 95% of our goodies are old enough there is no worries
about copy write laws etc etc. The distributions are free, you only
have to pay your shipping costs to the next person on the list, which
will be somewhere between 60 cents, and a couple of bucks, if the distro
is large enough. It only cost me 60 cents to mail out a disk, and I
often use the same envelope I received the disk in. And yes, the clubs
or groups are international... I'm sure it will surprise many of you,
that the 29 or 59 dollar set you could by at some of our stores, is
available in the public domain, you are paying for the packaging and
distributions and advertizments they need to do in order to get these
goodies out into the market places, but they are mostly all out there in
the public domain, and we often have complete sets, not just 16 or 24
episodes.
If you have any questions about these groups, please contact me off
list, as I'm sure I'm straining our moderator's patience. You could do
a Yahoo or Goggle search, or try out the group I started about 7 months
ago, and have 95 members already... It's growing slowly but surely.
check out:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OTR_and_Music/ Thanks for the Bandwidth here, and everyone's patience, and again my
apologies to our moderator for the off topic subject, but I do think
they often go hand in hand, many of us LOVE old radios, and the old time
radio programs just seem to belong together... Imagin listening to def
leopard or some hard rock, on an old At Water Kent... Does this not
sound like a contradiction??? : ) Thanks again everyone.
73 72 71
Bill KE9XQ / NNN0AEE
________________________________________________________________________
Hi, Larry, and thanks for you comments! I am excited
about the challenge of your EM board design. Also,
the graphics look way cool, man.
When you post the new material, please indicate the
actual dimensions of the boards. I have found that I
often have to rescale board images to the proper size.
In the case of Steve Weber's 75 m Minimalist
Transceiver, I kept rescaling and printing until I had
a paper pattern for the SA-612 DIPs that I could stick
a DIP socket into and the pins would line up! Steve
notes the scaling issues on his website regarding the
rig. I didn't wan't to redraw the scematic in CirCAD
or Eagle, so I took the low-tech iterative approach.
I'm looking forward to the new, improved K3PEG EM
2N2-40!
72,
Ted KX4OM
>
> Hi Ted and group,
>
> FB on starting your 2n2/40+ build! I see that you're
> planning to
> work from my modular EM layout provided here in the
> group's 'files'
> section. I'm happy to hear that someone will make
> use of it.
>
> For those of you building the 2n2/40+ from my single
> board layout,
> you may eliminate a dozen or more Manhattan pads by
> merely
> lengthening a few toroid wires. Doing so will allow
> you jump over a
> few pads associated with 'blue' jumper wires, and
> save time too.
>
> I use an approx. 1/8" diameter pad for my Manhattan
> construction.
> The Harbor Freight hand punch is a good tool;
> however, to improve
> the flatness of punched pad take a flat file and
> file away that
> little point on the punch face of the die set you
> choose to use for
> your Manhattan pads. Be careful and don't file the
> punche's cutting
> edge. This modification was noted by others a while
> back. Leave the
> other punch/die sets alone unless you choose to use
> the for
> Manhattan construction.
>
> When I created the EM layout for the 2n2/40+ with MS
> PowerPoint I
> did so at 300 or 400X magnification. So, distances
> looked great, and
> I elected to place extra pads in the layout
> especially near toroid
> transformers for the sake of mechanical stability.
> Look at the
> connections for T3, T4, T8, T9, T13 and T14 and
> you'll see what I
> mean.
>
> I later found that if I wound at least one of the
> toroid windings
> with 26 ga wire that would provide more support for
> the toroid.
> However, I would not do this for bifilar or trifilar
> transformers.
>
> On another note, my first cut at the 2n2/20 layout
> was proofed by
> Bob Miller, WB6KWT. He is responsible for finding my
> mistakes early
> on. Thanks Bob! Bob did a nice job on his recent
> 2n2/40+ build.
>
> The first person to point out my excessive use of
> jumpers in my
> 2n2/20 EM layout was Jim Kortge. Jim was kind enough
> to proof read
> my second generation of my 2n2/20 EM layout and give
> me a few more
> suggestions. Thanks Jim!
>
> After spending an excessive amount of time
> installing those dreaded
> jumper wires on my own 2n2/20 build, I realized that
> Jim was right
> (naturally), and a lot of extra work could be
> eliminated. So, I did
> another revision to the 2n2/20 EM layout and
> eliminated many
> jumpers. After I get the latest layout finalized and
> proof read I'll
> release it to this group.
>
> Right now I'm building and troubleshooting my
> 2n2/20. I hope to have
> it ready for Atlanticon 2005.
>
> 72, Larry - K3PEG (a soon to cured Jumperholic)
--snip---
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.comTed Bruce wrote:
> Jim,
Greetings Ted,
Sorry for the delay in answering. Been a bit busy.
> I now have all the parts for my 2N2-40+, and I'm
> almost ready to start matching crystals.
Good going......
Working from
> your schematic of the Precision VXO, I made the
> circuit board pattern using PhotoShop. One question:
> can you give me the part number and source for the PC
> mount BNC?
Try Mouser stock number 538-73137-5003. I'm not sure that is the
exact part that was used in the kit, but it should work, and the
price is right.
>
> I'm ready to iron the PVXO pattern onto a PC board
> using Press 'n Peel Blue. I also have all the parts
> for the crystal test circuit, which I will build
> Manhattan-style.
Yes, that will work fine too. That's how mine is built.
I do have the PC board master for the crystal test circuit,
but no boards were ever produced for it. I'm still hoping
that the AmQRP gang will run a semi-kit of that someday.
I got one of those punches from
> Harbor Freight. I couldn't imagine building the K3PEG
> 2N2-40+ board without an easy way to make little round
> pads!
Yes, most useful having that punch. I mount mine in a vice
and put a 2 foot handle extension on it for punching. Makes
it go through the PC board material a lot easier, and doesn't
tire out your hand.
>
> Also, if everything goes as planned with the 2n2-40+,
> I have a spreadsheet of the components sorted by
> component ID, by component type and value, buy
> quantity for each component type and value, and by
> board number for the K3PEG Extreme Manhattan version.
Great....that would be a nice addition to the documentation
on the 2N2-XX web site.
> I will QA the spreadsheet during the build and then
> upload it to the Files section.
Wonderful!
Many thanks Ted, and again, I apologize for the untimely
reply.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi everyone
Hi I am Frank and has been a member of the group for some time but
following the traffic while building a 2n2-40 .
It´s now running , took somt time and tears but it´s in good shape
now.
I am amazed by the rig. The Rx is just so quite and sensitive
that is certainly compares with my "bigger kenwoods and Yaesu".
Jim has certainly done a excellent work in designing it and the
support is just outstanding.
Troubleshooting on the rig has extensive but i think that most of
the problems that comes up are solved by reading the emails.
It´s also amazing how many mistakes I made with , bad
soldering,winding toroid´s the wrong way etc. so lesson learned is
1) take your time dont rush 2) Dont work on the rig when You are
tired 3) never give up.
So I guess it´s just a matter of time before we have our first ?
transantlantic qso 2n2-40 style! Is there a preferred freq on 40M for
qrp operation in the US ?
So once thanks Jim and it´s been great fun to build it and I can´t
keep my mind off that 2n2-20...
73/ Frank / SM5QU
|
3225|3224|2005-03-17 14:35:08|Jim Kortge|Re: Another 2n2-40 is running|subriaus wrote:
>
>
> Hi everyone
>
> Hi I am Frank and has been a member of the group for some time but
> following the traffic while building a 2n2-40 .
> It´s now running , took somt time and tears but it´s in good shape
> now.
> I am amazed by the rig. The Rx is just so quite and sensitive
> that is certainly compares with my "bigger kenwoods and Yaesu".
>
> Jim has certainly done a excellent work in designing it and the
> support is just outstanding.
> Troubleshooting on the rig has extensive but i think that most of
> the problems that comes up are solved by reading the emails.
> It´s also amazing how many mistakes I made with , bad
> soldering,winding toroid´s the wrong way etc. so lesson learned is
> 1) take your time dont rush 2) Dont work on the rig when You are
> tired 3) never give up.
>
> So I guess it´s just a matter of time before we have our first ?
> transantlantic qso 2n2-40 style! Is there a preferred freq on 40M for
> qrp operation in the US ?
>
> So once thanks Jim and it´s been great fun to build it and I can´t
> keep my mind off that 2n2-20...
>
> 73/ Frank / SM5QU
Greetings Frank,
So nice to hear that you have completed another 2N2/40 rig. That
is just delightful! There are a few in Europe and Asia, but not
many, so yours is very special.
Sorry for the problems you experienced building it, but that
how most of us learn. Certainly I do a lot of my learning
that way.
As for the 2N2/20, it is a great rig, if I do say so as
the designer, as is the 2N2/30 also. Now you need to build
a 4017 transverter to put your 2N2/40 on 17 meters. I
guess I don't have the detail of that design up on my web
site yet....better get going on that. It is one of my
favorite designs, and works so well!
72 and many thanks for posting your results to the gang,
Jim, K8IQY
OT I know but offered here before I put in on Ebay
complete multipig + built and certified W/#21 full power of 5 watts on
160m - 10m. With a complete manual in three ring binder. All six pcb's
in case made several contacts on 40m (no SWR pcb) contact off list view
at <
http://www.kc5wa.us/mp/mp.html>
MP+ #21 has anew home.
TNX for the BW
72/71 de "rc" kc5wa
|
3228|3228|2005-03-27 00:29:13|Robert Conley|cw|John Shannon K3wwp is a CW enthusist and an avid QRP'er
John is running a CW Slogan contest on his web site. 51
entries were reduced to 10 by a group of "CW" fellows who
deemed these 10 the best of the bunch. take the time and
go to John's site <
http://home.alltel.net/johnshan> and
cast you vote for the one you think is the best ....Please
DO YOU?
Like CW contests?
Slow Speed CW? AMEN!
VHF/UHF CW? HUH?
CW SPRINTS?
then check out the
NORTH AMERICAN QRP CW CLUB
<
http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel>
"NO DUES, JUST DO"
"THE QRP CLUB WITH A DIFFERANCE"
Dear Jim and Others
Hi!
I became aware of this group quite late. I am collecting all
components for this rig.
Was very much impressed with implementation of Norton amp design as
very few amateur ckts seem to use them. Lately some interest in them
is growing with their use in Icom IC7800.
A search over net resulted in MRF571 and later MRF581 as devices
suited for this configration. Here in local mkt we have available
2SC2570A available very cheap due to its use in CATV units.(2SC2570,
NEC, NPN, TO-218, 25V, 0.07A, 5GHz.
I would look forward to suggestions on its use in Norton preamp
section:
Does the existing ckt needs to be changed??
Can I go in for higher current bias???
Will the extra effort will be worthwile??
TNX & 73
Rahul VU3WJM
|
3231|3231|2005-04-14 09:15:22|Robert Conley|OT I KNOW|OT I KNOW....at 2400GMT Apr 15th (0000GMT Apr16th) less than
36 hours from now. The CW Slogan Contest ENDS on John Shannon's
(K3WWP) web site. I urge you to vote. IF you have not already
voted. PLEASE take a moment, go to John's web site
<
http://home.alltel.net/johnshan/> and vote. You might also
sign his guest book. John has a unique streak going that I find
rather neat. When JOhn worked Chuck, KG9N/C6A on August 5, 1994,
it started a still continuing streak of making one or more QSO's
every day using QRP, Morse Code, and simple wire antennas. As
of Mar 31, 2005 the streak stood at 3,892 days and 41,303 QSO's
with 12,611 of the QSO's being DX (non-W/VE). Check out John's
site and please vote for the CW SLOGAN You think is the Best.
TNX ES 72/71 DE "RC" KC5WA
Robert Conley wrote:
>
> OT I KNOW....
Then please stop sending out your announcements to
everyone in the 2n2-40 group. It isn't appreciated
by me nor anyone else.
Thank you,
Jim, K8IQY (Owner of the Yahoo 2n2-40 group)
vu3wjm wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Dear Jim and Others
Greetings Rahul,
Sorry for the long delay in answering you. Too many things
to do, including income taxes have taken priority.
>
> Hi!
>
> I became aware of this group quite late. I am collecting all
> components for this rig.
It has been updated a couple of times. The latest info is on
the Yahoo 2n2-40 group web location.
> Was very much impressed with implementation of Norton amp design as
> very few amateur ckts seem to use them. Lately some interest in them
> is growing with their use in Icom IC7800.
That's good info. I didn't know that the IC7800 was using the
design.
> A search over net resulted in MRF571 and later MRF581 as devices
> suited for this configration. Here in local mkt we have available
> 2SC2570A available very cheap due to its use in CATV units.(2SC2570,
> NEC, NPN, TO-218, 25V, 0.07A, 5GHz.
Sounds like a very good transistor. I'm wondering if it is
much like the 2N5109 CATV transistor used in this country,
but with a much higher Ft specification.
> I would look forward to suggestions on its use in Norton preamp
> section:
> Does the existing ckt needs to be changed??
None at all. It should work fine as is.
> Can I go in for higher current bias???
Yes, right up to the limit of the transistor. Leave the
bias circuit essentially as is, but change the currrent limiting
resistor in the emitter. That will raise the standing current
in the transistor. Looking at the specs above, a standing
current of 50 ma might be a good choice. You may need to
add a heat sink to the transistor to keep it running within
a safe range.
> Will the extra effort will be worthwile??
Depends on the amount of spurious signals you have near
the rig. As it is designed, it can handle some quite strong
in band and out of band signals without intermod problems, but
it might not make the grade in your part of the world as designed.
A bit of experimenting is probably in order. I'd build the circuit
as designed, and go from there.
GL with your efforts Rahul, and keep in touch with the
2n2-40 group is you build or have problems. We'll all
do our best to help.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi
Thanks Jim,
March here is time for TAX man. Seems all were busy. The itch to try
out was too strong. I simply went ahead with your design taking tips
from pdf here:
www.kongsfjord.no/dl/Amplifiers/ Ultralinear%202N5109%20And%202N3053%
20Amplifiers.pdf
First prototype was made as per your design. Total current drain was
28ma. I can assume about 26ma thru collector. Being in plastic
package it was slightly warm to touch but not into thermal runway.
No heatsink was used. I used 1:11:4 turn ratio over 2 hole balun
transformer core.
To check it out I connected it to my HF rig on 20 there was
immediate 2 S point improvement. I was amazed as you rightly point
no overloading/ intermods whatsoever, and no filter on input, whole
spectrum getting thru.
The performance on 15mts was even more dramatic the low noise figure
of the preamp showed even better results. Many signal came thru that
were not copiable earlier.
In second prototype I increased the value of base bias resistor to
3k9 and current came down to 18ma. I feel adjusting the emitter
resistor is better solution will try it out. The device costs abt 6
cents, Rs3/- here. Rest all components quite cheap too.
How is the work on SSB rig going?? we all look forward to it.
TNX & 73
Rahul VU3WJM
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
> vu3wjm wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Dear Jim and Others
>
> Greetings Rahul,
>
> Sorry for the long delay in answering you. Too many things
> to do, including income taxes have taken priority.
> >
> > Hi!
> >
> > I became aware of this group quite late. I am collecting all
> > components for this rig.
>
> It has been updated a couple of times. The latest info is on
> the Yahoo 2n2-40 group web location.
>
> > Was very much impressed with implementation of Norton amp design
as
> > very few amateur ckts seem to use them. Lately some interest in
them
> > is growing with their use in Icom IC7800.
>
> That's good info. I didn't know that the IC7800 was using the
> design.
>
> > A search over net resulted in MRF571 and later MRF581 as devices
> > suited for this configration. Here in local mkt we have
available
> > 2SC2570A available very cheap due to its use in CATV units.
(2SC2570,
> > NEC, NPN, TO-218, 25V, 0.07A, 5GHz.
>
> Sounds like a very good transistor. I'm wondering if it is
> much like the 2N5109 CATV transistor used in this country,
> but with a much higher Ft specification.
>
> > I would look forward to suggestions on its use in Norton preamp
> > section:
> > Does the existing ckt needs to be changed??
>
> None at all. It should work fine as is.
>
> > Can I go in for higher current bias???
>
> Yes, right up to the limit of the transistor. Leave the
> bias circuit essentially as is, but change the currrent limiting
> resistor in the emitter. That will raise the standing current
> in the transistor. Looking at the specs above, a standing
> current of 50 ma might be a good choice. You may need to
> add a heat sink to the transistor to keep it running within
> a safe range.
>
> > Will the extra effort will be worthwile??
>
> Depends on the amount of spurious signals you have near
> the rig. As it is designed, it can handle some quite strong
> in band and out of band signals without intermod problems, but
> it might not make the grade in your part of the world as designed.
> A bit of experimenting is probably in order. I'd build the circuit
> as designed, and go from there.
>
> GL with your efforts Rahul, and keep in touch with the
> 2n2-40 group is you build or have problems. We'll all
> do our best to help.
>
> 72 and kind regards,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
HI! Jim and all
Reading a brief mention of Norton amp similar to 2NXX design
implemented in IC7800 got me working on the icom rig schematics. Its
true the rig uses Norton preamp in frontend the concept is very simple:
High intercept point using norton preamp based upon 2SC5551 ft3.5ghz
maybe I overshooted a bit on selecting a device of 5ghz ft.
Now for for higher IP3 performance it is very simple approach simply
use the same Norton preamp in push pull. After some study it appears 2
hole balun cores are more suited here dont know exact reason as yet.
Startling discovery the 7800 also uses 3k3 resistor for base bias.
To me the 2N design appears far ahead of its time in homebrew circuit.
Jim thanks for the excellent job , do count me in if you go in for an
SSB rig. We all in far off places look forward to it.
73
Rahul VU3WJM
|
3236|90|2005-04-16 14:38:48|2n2-40@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to 2n2-40 ||
3237|3230|2005-04-17 16:44:05|Jim Kortge|Re: RF preamp startling discovery|vu3wjm wrote:
>
>
>
> HI! Jim and all
Greetings Rahul,
>
> Reading a brief mention of Norton amp similar to 2NXX design
> implemented in IC7800 got me working on the icom rig schematics. Its
> true the rig uses Norton preamp in frontend the concept is very simple:
I just looked at the schematic you posted. Sure is a Norton
amp! :-) Do you happen to know the turns ratio of the transformer
in the collector? Just wondering what gain they are running.
>
> High intercept point using norton preamp based upon 2SC5551 ft3.5ghz
> maybe I overshooted a bit on selecting a device of 5ghz ft.
Looks to me like they killed some of the UHF gain with that
5pf cap and 100 ohm resistor from collector to emitter. I'm
wondering if they had some stability problems up in the UHF
or VHF range.
>
> Now for for higher IP3 performance it is very simple approach simply
> use the same Norton preamp in push pull. After some study it appears 2
> hole balun cores are more suited here dont know exact reason as yet.
I've seen those P-P Norton designs. Even better IP3 performance than
the single version, but practically, one only needs so much.
>
> Startling discovery the 7800 also uses 3k3 resistor for base bias.
Yes, I see that too. About 1/4 of the supply voltage on the base it
looks like. Interesting also that the collector supply is only 8 volts.
>
> To me the 2N design appears far ahead of its time in homebrew circuit.
One could argue that point. I just thought the Norton amp design
had a lot of good features to recomment it as an RF pre-amp stage
using inexpensive transistors. I also liked the predictable,
fixed gain one got by selecting the collector transformer turns
ratio, and that fact that the amp didn't seem to be at all fussy
whether the transformer was wound on a toroid core, or a binocular
core. I've tried both, and either is fine.
>
> Jim thanks for the excellent job , do count me in if you go in for an
> SSB rig. We all in far off places look forward to it.
Thanks for the comments Rahul. It will be a while before that rig
is finished, but it is being designed and built. The Rx strip is
for the most part done, and works wonderfully well. More details
later as the design firms up.
72 and many thanks for posting the IC7800 Norton pre-amp.
Jim, K8IQY
Dear Jim,
Hi!
Sorry I am not aware of the turns ratio or the gain of IC.... rig. A search did bring up that rig has 2 seprate gain pre amps but no figures .
Now I had been fiddling with the bias of your design but feel it is easier if I simple lower down the voltage to 8V without any change. The C to E feedback sure may reduce some bandwidth , I never did need what I would be geeting from 5Ghz ft devices. BTW I did not find any trace of Osc on my unit . Tested it upon Tek 2465B 400mhz stuff. No harm taking some precautions.
I am more of a rag chewer and hombrew fan so not very much interested in CW operations but I am making the rig for my good friend VU3SUA sunil who is a die hard CW buff. It would be a rig for him and sheer homebrew pleasure for me.
I have been keen on SSB project for thats what we look forward to here in 3rd world. Commercial ones are too expensive your design aproach is one of the finest.
Book me in for a group build up or for prototype run builder for the same . I will be happy to work along during its development phase too.
73
Rahul VU3WJM
PS: Can I get to have a peek at the SSB RX section???
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com wrote:
There is 1 message in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: RF preamp startling discovery
From: Jim Kortge
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 16:42:39 -0400
From: Jim Kortge
Subject: Re: RF preamp startling discovery
vu3wjm wrote:
>
>
>
> HI! Jim and all
Greetings Rahul,
>
> Reading a brief mention of Norton amp similar to 2NXX design
> implemented in IC7800 got me working on the icom rig schematics. Its
> true the rig uses Norton preamp in frontend the concept is very simple:
I just looked at the schematic you posted. Sure is a Norton
amp! :-) Do you happen to know the turns ratio of the transformer
in the collector? Just wondering what gain they are running.
>
> High intercept point using norton preamp based upon 2SC5551 ft3.5ghz
> maybe I overshooted a bit on selecting a device of 5ghz ft.
Looks to me like they killed some of the UHF gain with that
5pf cap and 100 ohm resistor from collector to emitter. I'm
wondering if they had some stability problems up in the UHF
or VHF range.
>
> Now for for higher IP3 performance it is very simple approach simply
> use the same Norton preamp in push pull. After some study it appears 2
> hole balun cores are more suited here dont know exact reason as yet.
I've seen those P-P Norton designs. Even better IP3 performance than
the single version, but practically, one only needs so much.
>
> Startling discovery the 7800 also uses 3k3 resistor for base bias.
Yes, I see that too. About 1/4 of the supply voltage on the base it
looks like. Interesting also that the collector supply is only 8 volts.
>
> To me the 2N design appears far ahead of its time in homebrew circuit.
One could argue that point. I just thought the Norton amp design
had a lot of good features to recomment it as an RF pre-amp stage
using inexpensive transistors. I also liked the predictable,
fixed gain one got by selecting the collector transformer turns
ratio, and that fact that the amp didn't seem to be at all fussy
whether the transformer was wound on a toroid core, or a binocular
core. I've tried both, and either is fine.
>
> Jim thanks for the excellent job , do count me in if you go in for an
> SSB rig. We all in far off places look forward to it.
Thanks for the comments Rahul. It will be a while before that rig
is finished, but it is being designed and built. The Rx strip is
for the most part done, and works wonderfully well. More details
later as the design firms up.
72 and many thanks for posting the IC7800 Norton pre-amp.
Jim, K8IQY
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Send instant messages to your online friends
http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I am doing some repair/rework on my 2N2/40 and can't find the
original schematic for the fixed xtal filter - it looks like I used
some wrong value resistors in the mixer amp and am also wondering if
there was any difference in those values when using the fixed filter
instead of the variable one.
Reply here or to
ad6we_qrp@hotmail.com Thanks...
Del, AD6WE
Hi, Larry,
How is the progress on the design review of your new layout for the Extreme Manhattan 2N2_40+?
I bought one of the Harbor Freight punches, and I'm rarin' to go!
72,
Ted KX4OM
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Larry Przyborowski" wrote:
>
> Hi Ted and group,
>
> FB on starting your 2n2/40+ build! I see that you're planning to
> work from my modular EM layout provided here in the group's 'files'
> section. I'm happy to hear that someone will make use of it.
>
> For those of you building the 2n2/40+ from my single board layout,
> you may eliminate a dozen or more Manhattan pads by merely
> lengthening a few toroid wires. Doing so will allow you jump over a
> few pads associated with 'blue' jumper wires, and save time too.
---snip---
> After spending an excessive amount of time installing those dreaded
> jumper wires on my own 2n2/20 build, I realized that Jim was right
> (naturally), and a lot of extra work could be eliminated. So, I did
> another revision to the 2n2/20 EM layout and eliminated many
> jumpers. After I get the latest layout finalized and proof read I'll
> release it to this group.
>
> Right now I'm building and troubleshooting my 2n2/20. I hope to have
> it ready for Atlanticon 2005.
>
> 72, Larry - K3PEG (a soon to cured Jumperholic)
Hi Ted,
I'm in the process of removing quite a few jumpers from my EM 2n2_20
layout, but not from my EM 40 meter layout. But, I'll take a look at
the 40 meter layout tomorrow when I feel better... seasonal
allergies have hit me hard, and that makes it difficult for me to
concentrate on anything.
BTW, my build of K8IQY's 2n2/20 rig earned me second place in the
Atlanticon 2005 building contest. Pictures were taken of all contest
entries so I hope that they're uploaded to AmQRP's website soon.
In the meantime, start punching those 'Manhattan" pads. My EM layout
uses the 1/8" diameter size pads. I pretinned my Manhattan pads
before I mounted them to the EM print. You may want to file down
that point that's on the punch. Doing so makes a better pad that's
not concave.
72, Larry - K3PEG (a soon to be cured Jumperholic)
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "kilocycles" wrote:
>
> Hi, Larry,
> How is the progress on the design review of your new layout for
the Extreme Manhattan 2N2_40+?
>
> I bought one of the Harbor Freight punches, and I'm rarin' to go!
>
> 72,
> Ted KX4OM
=> > 72, Larry - K3PEG (a soon to cured Jumperholic)
Larry,
Congratulations! I'm looking forward to seeing the
rig on the AmQTP site. Roger on modifying the punch.
72,
Ted KX4OM
--- snip---
> 1. Re: PVXO & 2N2-40
> From: "Larry Przyborowski"
> <k3peg@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: PVXO & 2N2-40
>
>
> Hi Ted,
> I'm in the process of removing quite a few jumpers
> from my EM 2n2_20
> layout, but not from my EM 40 meter layout. But,
> I'll take a look at
> the 40 meter layout tomorrow when I feel better...
> seasonal
> allergies have hit me hard, and that makes it
> difficult for me to
> concentrate on anything.
>
> BTW, my build of K8IQY's 2n2/20 rig earned me second
> place in the
> Atlanticon 2005 building contest. Pictures were
> taken of all contest
> entries so I hope that they're uploaded to AmQRP's
> website soon.
>
> In the meantime, start punching those 'Manhattan"
> pads. My EM layout
> uses the 1/8" diameter size pads. I pretinned my
> Manhattan pads
> before I mounted them to the EM print. You may want
> to file down
> that point that's on the punch. Doing so makes a
> better pad that's
> not concave.
>
> 72, Larry - K3PEG (a soon to be cured Jumperholic)
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.comHi gang,
I've uploaded two pdf files, one is called EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4.pdf and
the other one is named EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4_pad_locations.pdf.
The first file represents a redo of my original 2n2_40+ layout, and
I have removed the old file from the files section.
I have removed many jumper wires, and have also made some changes to
component placement. I hope you like the new layout.
The second file shows only the mounting hole positions and Manhattan
pad locations. It's for those of you who wish to build on bare
copper clad board. After you clean and degrease the copper clad give
it a light coat of clear lacquer spray to prevent tarnishing.
I have checked my layout, but please check my work against Jim
Kortge's schematics before you begin construction. If you find any
errors please report them so I can make corrections.
Have fun with your 2n2/40+ build. Here's hoping you enjoy building a
2n2/40+ and have success in doing so. It's a very fine transceiver!
Stay tuned for my next EM layout release- the 2n2_20! Real soon...
promise.
Vy 72 de Larry - K3PEG
|
3246|3246|2005-05-02 05:31:00|Robret Roomberg|RECEIVER ONLY for newbies|I was wondering if its possible to do a receiver only project
where the documentation and the receiver is as good as this 2n2-40
project.
Can anyone recommend such a project or can anyone slice and dice this
project down to the receiver and publish it for us to do with the scouts.
I have had the unpleasant experience of building short wave radio kits
and spring board radios and found the resulting radio to be
less than useless so I was considering starting from scratch
and looking for something people have proven to be a good receiver
project.
Any suggestions?
I want something that can receiver 40 meter CW.
Anybody can by a short wave radio at radio shack but those radios
do not receive 40 meter CW. A real disappointment there.
|
3247|3246|2005-05-02 08:04:32|Lee Mairs|Re: RECEIVER ONLY for newbies|Robert -
A ham friend of mine in Virginia built the 2N2-40 receiver only to use with
a whole bunch of small single band transmitters he has constructed over the
years. It worked great. In fact, I used it to help debug my 2N2-40 when I
had problems early on with winding toroids.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robret Roomberg" <roomberg@ptd.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 5:30 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] RECEIVER ONLY for newbies
>I was wondering if its possible to do a receiver only project
> where the documentation and the receiver is as good as this 2n2-40
> project.
> Can anyone recommend such a project or can anyone slice and dice this
> project down to the receiver and publish it for us to do with the scouts.
> I have had the unpleasant experience of building short wave radio kits
> and spring board radios and found the resulting radio to be
> less than useless so I was considering starting from scratch
> and looking for something people have proven to be a good receiver
> project.
> Any suggestions?
> I want something that can receiver 40 meter CW.
> Anybody can by a short wave radio at radio shack but those radios
> do not receive 40 meter CW. A real disappointment there.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Robret,
Some suggestions:
You should at least check out the 40 Meter Popcorn
Superhet Receiver at the notable QRP Homebuilder site
<
http://www.qrp.pops.net/popsuphet.htm>. It is not a
kit, and like the 2N2-40+, will challenge you, but you
will be proud of your acheivement of building one from
scratch, rather than from a kit. I'm not in any way
demeaning kit builders, because they too provide an
immense feeling of satisfaction. (By the way, I am
building K3PEG's Extreme Manhattan version of the
2N2-40+. Larry just uploaded Version 4 of his layout
to the 2N2-40+ files folder over the weekend).
As a caveat, I have not built a Popcorn myself yet,
but it looks to be a very sound design. The Popcorn
will require some configuration on your part, e.g.
selection of the VFO you want to use, selection of the
type of ring diode mixer, such as the Minicircuits
SBL-1 or a design by Wes Hayward, W7ZOI. A lot of the
rest of the design is credited to Wes as well, so you
can bet on it being a good performing unit. There are
some photos on the site of one builder's receiver.
Also, you can build it pretty much like the 2N2-40;
Manhattan style. The RF amp is a design by Rick
Campbell, KK7B, designer of the very high performance
(and more expensive) receivers now available in
modular kit form from Kanga US
<
http://www.bright.net/~kanga/kanga/KK7B/kk7b_kits.htm>.
As a general statement, I would stay away from direct
conversion receivers unless low cost is a primary
requirement (the KK7B receivers are an exception, due
to their advanced design features that provide
single-signal reception). The Vectronics receiver
kits are an example of low cost direct conversion
receivers. They must be powered from a battery for
stability. In fact, a 9 volt battery fits in the
receiver case, if you buy the standard Vectronics
case. Direct conversion receivers as a general
statement suffer from microphonics, which means
tapping the case or other disturbances generates an
annoying frequency "chirp" due to the fact that the
oscillator and rf stage is separated only by the few
Hertz of the oscullator frequency and rf frequency,
the output of the difference between the two
frequencies is passed on to the audio stage. Direct
conversion receivers also do not provide single-signal
reception...while tuning across a CW signal, you will
hear both sidebands, a decrease in tone and then an
increase in tone which means that you will hear
interfering CW signals whose opposite sideband would
be filtered or cancelled out in a superheterodyne
receiver. You can check out the Vectronics lineup at
<
http://www.vectronics.com/products.php?catid=2>. The
kits cost only $29.95. While their peformance in terms
of sensitivity is "ok" (I built the 20 meter version),
you will quickly get tired of the lack of single
signal selectivity that a superheterodyne design or
Rick Campbell's phasing direct conversion designs
provide. Of course, you could always experiment with
them, and mess around with the design a bit, at that
price. By the way, the famous (and typically,
famously expensive) vintage Heathkit HW-7 and HW-8
tranceivers sold on eBay every week are direct
conversion designs.
As a comparison with the low $29.95 Vectronics cost,
you can buy an SW-40+ transceiver with a superhet
receiver stage from Dave Benson at Small Wonder Labs
<
http://www.smallwonderlabs.com/> for $55 post paid.
(Or, for that matter, the 80, 30, or 20 meter versions
at the same price). The enclosure kit is no longer
available, but check out Bill Jones' site at
<
http://www.psnw.com/~kd7s/>. Bill is an ABS
enclosure genius without parallel. I have the SW-20+
and I absolutely love it. Check out Chuck Adams'
(K7QO) article on building the SW-30+ at
<
http://www.k7qo.net/swl30p.pdf>, and Jim Kortge,
K8IQY, who of course is the designer of the 2N2-xx+
rigs, built a Dave Benson-designed SW-30+ manhattan
style
<
http://www.k8iqy.com/qrprigs/sw30+/sw30+page.htm>.
The only drawback to the SW+ line is that they cover a
relatively small segment of the band (about 35 kHz for
the SW-20+; but most of the 20 meter QRP activity is
in the 35kHz coverage range. 40 meters is a bit
different, with the QRP activity around 7040 KHz, but
also the Novice class portion of the band higher up.
As you may know already, the SW-40+ is the subject of
the Elmer101 project at
<
http://engphys.mcmaster.ca/~elmer101/>, so there is a
comprehensive amount of information about it. A
fantastic add-on to the SW+ series (and many other
rigs) is the "FreqMite", which sends to your
headphones the exact frequency you are on in morse
code! That accessory is also available from Small
Wonder Labs, and at $19.95, is a good deal. I'm
ordering another one for an MFJ-9420 SSB QRP
transceiver I bought on eBay recently.
Another receiver that has gotten PHENOMENAL reviews in
QST and by builders is the direct conversion Binaural
I-Q receiver, another Rick Campbell design. It is
featured in the ARRL Handbook as well. Its design
provides two 90 degrees-phase-separated signals,
providing a three-dimensional in space effect through
headphones. There is a link to the QST article on the
Kanga site. Kanga US now sells it as a kit, including
a standard VFO, for $115. This design is so good that
some builders are using the high-performance Direct
Digital Synthesis IQ VFO kitted by the American QRP
Club with it.
Beyond these receiver recommendations, most of what
you will find in the QRP kit category are
transceivers, which (other than Small Wonder Labs) are
around $150 and up. This group of vendors includes
MFJ, Oak Hills Research, Ten-Tec, and last but
certainly not least, Wilderness Radio and Elecraft.
Elecraft produces some of the best performing amateur
transceivers in the world, regardless of cost. I
mention Wilderness Radio because the Sierra
transceiver, which has been in ARRL publications for a
few years is similar to the Elecraft K1 (Wayne
Burdick, N6KR designed the Sierra and is co-founder of
Elecraft).
Another interesting site to visit is Steve "Melt
Solder" Weber's site (KD1JV) for some of his designs
and accessories. I'm building an SSB transceiver for
40 meters based on his "minimalist" 75 meter design.
If you want to spend $12 or so, the ARRL publication
"QRP Power" is a good book. One article is on
"Revisiting the 40-40", referring to the Dave Benson
project transceiver in QST by Dave Benson that he went
on to commercialize a similar design as the original
SW-40. The book also reprints the QST "Build it
Yourself" series, which has a lot of good information.
FOUR of Rick Campbell's designs are in the book, and
Zack Lau, of the ARRL Lab has a detailed and very
technical article titled "Birth of a 7-MHz
Transceiver. I am using a couple of stages from his
design to go in an SSB transceiver I am building.
Should you decide to build the 2N2-40+, either in part
or as a transmitter (not much additional work, since
the transmitter and receiver share the IF and VFO
stages), you will get a LOT of support from the
members of the 2N2-40 Yahoo group, and you will have a
vast amount of information available in the group
archives.
Good luck! You are going to have some fun, I assure
you!
73,
Ted KX4OM
> I was wondering if its possible to do a receiver
> only project
> where the documentation and the receiver is as good
> as this 2n2-40
> project.
---snip---
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.comYes a good CW receiver takes some effort, but the components do not
have to be exotic. The current generation of QRP rigs - this project
included - show this very thing.
I actually started building the 2N2-40 thinking i might use it as a
receiver only. Note the receive function fits on two pages of the sn2-
40 schematic - the receive chain and the VFO. In my case I took a few
liberties - i used a mechanical variable cap (30 pF) because i had one
and it provides the tuning range i was looking for. I also used an
LM386 audio amp to save space and power consumption.
So sure you can do a receiver using this design. The hardest
procurement is a set a closely matched xtals - but dont let this stop
you cold as you could first build with unmatched or less well matched
crystals, and replace them later.
Overall - you don't want to skimp too much on the receiver - a poor
receiver will drive one crazy! You can use the 2n2-40 as the basis for
a state-of-the-art CW receiver, or you can economize it a bit to a very
adequate one. (If you go crazy while trying to get the parts and
experience for this project, you might consider something like the SW-
series kit from Small Wonder Labs as a warm-up project - you can use
just the receiver if you wish.
curt
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Robret Roomberg" wrote:
> I was wondering if its possible to do a receiver only project
> where the documentation and the receiver is as good as this 2n2-40
> project.
> Can anyone recommend such a project or can anyone slice and dice this
> project down to the receiver and publish it for us to do with the
scouts.
> I have had the unpleasant experience of building short wave radio kits
> and spring board radios and found the resulting radio to be
> less than useless so I was considering starting from scratch
> and looking for something people have proven to be a good receiver
> project.
> Any suggestions?
> I want something that can receiver 40 meter CW.
> Anybody can by a short wave radio at radio shack but those radios
> do not receive 40 meter CW. A real disappointment there.
Hi gang,
Well, here it is! After many changes (all for the better) it's time
to release my "Enhanced Manhattan" layout for Jim's 2n2/20
transceiver.
Compared to the layout I used for my 2n2/20 build, this version is
much more refined in that has a lot less jumper wires making it much
easier to build.
Print this file via a pdf reader. The result should be a 1-to-1 copy
of my layout. Use magnification on the pdf reader to enlarge
sections of my layout on your PC screen, and use it as you build.
Again, as I've said before, I've made every effort to check this for
correctness against Jim's schematics, version 102204, as shown on
his website. Please print a copy of my EM layout and check it
against Jim's schematics before you buil. Please report any errors
or omissions to me (my email address is in the file) so I can make
corrections.
Vy 72 de Larry, K3PEG
P.S. Have Fun!
|
3252|3251|2005-05-05 22:39:00|Larry Przyborowski|Re: My EM version A layout of K8IQY's 2n2_20 rig|Hi gang,
In a previous message I meant to type "Extreme Manhattan" instead
of "Enhanced Manhattan". "Extreme Manhattan" is what I want "EM" to
represent.
No big deal; I just want to clarify that definition for the "books".
Vy 72 de Larry, K3PEG
|
3253|3251|2005-05-05 22:49:12|Mark Schoonover|Re: My EM version A layout of K8IQY's 2n2_20 rig|Larry Przyborowski
k3peg@comcast.net> wrote:
> Hi gang,
>
> In a previous message I meant to type "Extreme Manhattan"
> instead of "Enhanced Manhattan". "Extreme Manhattan" is
> what I want "EM" to represent.
>
> No big deal; I just want to clarify that definition for
> the "books".
>
> Vy 72 de Larry, K3PEG
Larry,
I just have to ask - why is it extreme??
72
Mark
KA6WKEHi Mark,
Well, I named it 'Extreme Manhattan' because IMHO believe I've
taken "Manhattan" construction to another level. By extreme I mean
going to great or exaggerated lengths to present a new way to
illustrate "Manhattan" construction.
Most hams will continue to build "Manhattan" style over bare copper
board, and there's nothing wrong with that; however, my "EM" layout,
in pdf file format, serves a "Manhattan" style builder in a few
ways:
A.) The layout can be magnified many times and utilized as an aid
while building either Jim's 2n2/20 or 2n2/40+ transceiver designs.
B.) A Laser or Ink jet printout should result in a 1-to-1 copy that
can be used to locate components, pads and grounds.
C.) Components are color coded for ease of identification. In a few
cases one will need to refer to the schematic diagram for component
information, e.g. toroidal transformer and inductor information.
D.) The EM printout, printed on letter-size label paper (Avery 8255)
can be applied to copper clad. Doing so prevents copper tarnishing
and serves as a pictorial guide for construction.
EM is for duplicating a proven design. Microsoft PowerPoint 2003 was
used to generate my EM layouts.
There you are, that's "Extreme Manhattan".
72 de Larry, K3PEG
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Mark Schoonover wrote:
> Larry Przyborowski wrote:
> > Hi gang,
> >
> > In a previous message I meant to type "Extreme Manhattan"
> > instead of "Enhanced Manhattan". "Extreme Manhattan" is
> > what I want "EM" to represent.
> >
> > No big deal; I just want to clarify that definition for
> > the "books".
> >
> > Vy 72 de Larry, K3PEG
>
> Larry,
>
> I just have to ask - why is it extreme??
>
> 72
> Mark
> KA6WKE
There used to be some examples in the photos section that showed how
to
wind the various toroids in the 2N2-40. I can't seem to find them
anymore. Are they still available?
73
Jerry - W0PWE
|
3256|3255|2005-05-08 08:54:48|Jim Kortge|Re: Toroid Winding Examples|w0pwe wrote:
> There used to be some examples in the photos section that showed how
> to
> wind the various toroids in the 2N2-40. I can't seem to find them
> anymore. Are they still available?
> 73
> Jerry - W0PWE
Jerry,
I think those are the diagrams that were in the 1998 Winter Issue
of QRPp done by Paul Harden, NA5N. I don't recall them ever being
on the 2n2-40 reflector, nor on my web old web pages. I know they
are not on the new one. I'd like to get Paul's permission to use
his artwork and put all of that up on the new pages. The same for
the 4017 transverter, where he did some marvelous drawings of the
various sections, and an great assembly drawing, showing the Rx
converter mounted above the Tx board.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi,
I'm looking for the 2n2-40 build instructions that were on Jim's old
website (qsl). They outlined the steps as far as building individual
sections then testing. I didn't see them in the files section here or
on the new site. Anyone have a link?
Thanks!
-pete-
|
3258|3258|2005-05-11 09:56:14|n6nvp|Paul Harden NA5N|I've been trying to contact Paul Harden, NA5N, in hopes of getting a
copy of the 2n2-40 Book he authored/published. The email address I
picked up from QRZ is bouncing. Does anybody in the group know of a
way to contact Paul, or some other place I might go to get a copy of
the book?
Thanks to everyone.
Oh - I'm getting excited. I found someone who had one of the Flying
Pigs 2n2-40 kits they'd never put together and were willing to part
with. I expect to have everything and be ready to start building, soon.
73
Kip N6NVP
San Diego, CA
|
3259|3258|2005-05-11 10:50:10|Mark Schoonover|Re: Paul Harden NA5N|Kip,
I have Paul's email address as:
na5n@zianet.com - this is from a
recent post to QRP-L...
HTH & 72
Mark
PS - I'll have to dig my 2n2-40 out and start building it. I finished the
first stage, but it's been sitting there for the last year on the bench just
staring at me! :)
I also have the zianet address, but haven't heard back
from a post I sent to Paul. My guess is he may be
doing the hamfest tour circuit. I wish I were!
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mailHoward Kraus wrote:
> I also have the zianet address, but haven't heard back
> from a post I sent to Paul. My guess is he may be
> doing the hamfest tour circuit. I wish I were!
>
> 72
>
> Howard Kraus, K2UD
Now that you mention it, I'm pretty sure he's at FDIM.
Mark
KA6WKE
Anyone out there in 2N2-land have a spare J176?
Thanks,
Cam N6GA
|
3263|3262|2005-05-21 08:57:32|Michael Harnage|Re: J176|I probably have of them lying around. How many you
need?
-mike/w1mt
--- camqrp <
camqrp@verizon.net> wrote:
> Anyone out there in 2N2-land have a spare J176?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Cam N6GA
>
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mailCam,
I have my 2N2-40 parts in Excel sorted six ways from
Sunday, and a good supply of them, but I don't show a
J176. What is it?
Ted KX4OM
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 00:29:44 -0000
> From: "camqrp" <camqrp@verizon.net>
> Subject: J176
>
> Anyone out there in 2N2-land have a spare J176?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Cam N6GA
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.comTed Bruce wrote:
> Cam,
> I have my 2N2-40 parts in Excel sorted six ways from
> Sunday, and a good supply of them, but I don't show a
> J176. What is it?
> Ted KX4OM
>
>
>>Message: 1
>> Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 00:29:44 -0000
>> From: "camqrp" <camqrp@verizon.net>
>>Subject: J176
>>
>>Anyone out there in 2N2-land have a spare J176?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Cam N6GA
Ted,
The latest version of the 2N2/40, which is the 2N2/40+ uses
the J176 as the audio mute transistor. I'm not sure that
the posted parts list on Yahoo is for the 40+ version, but
the most recent schematics for the 40+ are there I believe.
I'll be posting the whole 2N2/40+ design on my K8IQY web site
within the next two weeks hopefully.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
pmcquain wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm looking for the 2n2-40 build instructions that were on Jim's old
> website (qsl). They outlined the steps as far as building individual
> sections then testing. I didn't see them in the files section here or
> on the new site. Anyone have a link?
>
> Thanks!
>
> -pete-
Pete,
I'm planning on putting those back up on the new web site at
k8iqy.com just as soon as I find time to do it. Hopefully,
they will be available within the next two weeks.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hello to the list. This is my first post.
I have been building the 2N2 20 transceiver and finally finished the
receiver today. Receiver worked as soon as I turned it on.
Construction is straight forward.
I did run into a little problem when my cat jumped on the bench and
made the rig fall off but was dangling in mid air with alligator
clips!! Can't blame the cat it was a dumb thing to do leave it all
hooked up (with the DC power)and unattended. However it is working -
the first station I copied this evening was TF4M.
I do have a question related to the audio output of the 2N2 20. I
used my station tranceiver as the signal source (at 1 Watt) to align
the rx strip. All worked very well, I had so much audio output that
I had to turn the volume control way down. When I put the antenna on
the receiver, the volume was very very low. While I copied the TF
station well it was way down in level, I had to turn the volume
control all the way up and it was still very weak. Yet the stations
that I heard on my station transceiver were quite strong.
Would appreciate any guidance or assistance in resolving the issue
with the low level output of the receiver.
I am happy that the receiver is working - sort of!
Regards to all.
Serge
VA3SB
|
3268|3267|2005-05-26 08:39:40|Lee Mairs|Re: 2N2 20 Transceiver - RX working (sort of)|I had similar misgivings the first time I tuned across the 40 meter band
with the antenna attached - dead quiet and then BANG a loud CW signal. Must
be Kortge's bad design that makes the background so quiet... Hi-Hi!
Frankly, I prefer the 2N2-40 receiver to my ICOM 781 for 40 meter CW.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: <smbertuzzo@rogers.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 9:59 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2 20 Transceiver - RX working (sort of)
> Hello to the list. This is my first post.
>
> I have been building the 2N2 20 transceiver and finally finished the
> receiver today. Receiver worked as soon as I turned it on.
> Construction is straight forward.
>
> I did run into a little problem when my cat jumped on the bench and
> made the rig fall off but was dangling in mid air with alligator
> clips!! Can't blame the cat it was a dumb thing to do leave it all
> hooked up (with the DC power)and unattended. However it is working -
> the first station I copied this evening was TF4M.
>
> I do have a question related to the audio output of the 2N2 20. I
> used my station tranceiver as the signal source (at 1 Watt) to align
> the rx strip. All worked very well, I had so much audio output that
> I had to turn the volume control way down. When I put the antenna on
> the receiver, the volume was very very low. While I copied the TF
> station well it was way down in level, I had to turn the volume
> control all the way up and it was still very weak. Yet the stations
> that I heard on my station transceiver were quite strong.
>
> Would appreciate any guidance or assistance in resolving the issue
> with the low level output of the receiver.
>
> I am happy that the receiver is working - sort of!
>
> Regards to all.
>
> Serge
> VA3SB
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Thank you for your email Lee. Well, indeed Jim's rx design is for a
very quiet receiver. You are correct, that if I listen to my own
shack tx it is nice and loud. But off air signals are very very weak
and I need to crank the audio amp all the way - but the signals
still are quite weak. Almost as if the rx strip is not aligned...oh
well. I will just keep at it. No on the the TX.
Regards Lee...
Serge
VA3SB
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Lee Mairs wrote:
> I had similar misgivings the first time I tuned across the 40
meter band
> with the antenna attached - dead quiet and then BANG a loud CW
signal. Must
> be Kortge's bad design that makes the background so quiet... Hi-
Hi!
> Frankly, I prefer the 2N2-40 receiver to my ICOM 781 for 40 meter
CW.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY/8
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 9:59 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2 20 Transceiver - RX working (sort of)
>
>
> > Hello to the list. This is my first post.
> >
> > I have been building the 2N2 20 transceiver and finally finished
the
> > receiver today. Receiver worked as soon as I turned it on.
> > Construction is straight forward.
> >
> > I did run into a little problem when my cat jumped on the bench
and
> > made the rig fall off but was dangling in mid air with alligator
> > clips!! Can't blame the cat it was a dumb thing to do leave it
all
> > hooked up (with the DC power)and unattended. However it is
working -
> > the first station I copied this evening was TF4M.
> >
> > I do have a question related to the audio output of the 2N2 20. I
> > used my station tranceiver as the signal source (at 1 Watt) to
align
> > the rx strip. All worked very well, I had so much audio output
that
> > I had to turn the volume control way down. When I put the
antenna on
> > the receiver, the volume was very very low. While I copied the TF
> > station well it was way down in level, I had to turn the volume
> > control all the way up and it was still very weak. Yet the
stations
> > that I heard on my station transceiver were quite strong.
> >
> > Would appreciate any guidance or assistance in resolving the
issue
> > with the low level output of the receiver.
> >
> > I am happy that the receiver is working - sort of!
> >
> > Regards to all.
> >
> > Serge
> > VA3SB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
HI!
The rig employs some exceptional designs and trend found only in very, rather extremely high end radio equipment. Like the Norton noiseless feedback preamp that one finds in IC7800, R&S etc gear.
On the low audio my experience, Ft as well a beta varies for same device from different manufacturer. Given the influx of cheap far east devices I find many do not come up to the mark or the specs mentioned. I learned it the hard way while making BITX20.
Just a suggestion use semiconductor from a reputed manufacturer, maintain the proper VFO and BFO levels. I see no reason for not enjoying a fantastic project.
73
Rahul VU3WJM
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com wrote:
There are 2 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: 2N2 20 Transceiver - RX working (sort of)
From: Lee Mairs
2. Re: 2N2 20 Transceiver - RX working (sort of)
From: "
smbertuzzo@rogers.com"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 07:39:52 -0400
From: Lee Mairs
Subject: Re: 2N2 20 Transceiver - RX working (sort of)
I had similar misgivings the first time I tuned across the 40 meter band
with the antenna attached - dead quiet and then BANG a loud CW signal. Must
be Kortge's bad design that makes the background so quiet... Hi-Hi!
Frankly, I prefer the 2N2-40 receiver to my ICOM 781 for 40 meter CW.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From:
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 9:59 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2 20 Transceiver - RX working (sort of)
> Hello to the list. This is my first post.
>
> I have been building the 2N2 20 transceiver and finally finished the
> receiver today. Receiver worked as soon as I turned it on.
> Construction is straight forward.
>
> I did run into a little problem when my cat jumped on the bench and
> made the rig fall off but was dangling in mid air with alligator
> clips!! Can't blame the cat it was a dumb thing to do leave it all
> hooked up (with the DC power)and unattended. However it is working -
> the first station I copied this evening was TF4M.
>
---------------------------------
How much free photo storage do you get? Store your holiday snaps for FREE with Yahoo! Photos. Get Yahoo! Photos
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
smbertuzzo@rogers.com wrote:
> Hello to the list. This is my first post.
>
> I have been building the 2N2 20 transceiver and finally finished the
> receiver today. Receiver worked as soon as I turned it on.
> Construction is straight forward.
>
> I did run into a little problem when my cat jumped on the bench and
> made the rig fall off but was dangling in mid air with alligator
> clips!! Can't blame the cat it was a dumb thing to do leave it all
> hooked up (with the DC power)and unattended. However it is working -
> the first station I copied this evening was TF4M.
>
> I do have a question related to the audio output of the 2N2 20. I
> used my station tranceiver as the signal source (at 1 Watt) to align
> the rx strip. All worked very well, I had so much audio output that
> I had to turn the volume control way down. When I put the antenna on
> the receiver, the volume was very very low. While I copied the TF
> station well it was way down in level, I had to turn the volume
> control all the way up and it was still very weak. Yet the stations
> that I heard on my station transceiver were quite strong.
>
> Would appreciate any guidance or assistance in resolving the issue
> with the low level output of the receiver.
>
> I am happy that the receiver is working - sort of!
>
> Regards to all.
>
> Serge
> VA3SB
>
Serge,
Sorry for the delay in answering. If you go to the OWSEM web site,
you'll know what I have been up to since returning from Dayton.
As for the weak audio on the 2N2/20, two thoughts emerge. The first is
that the LO isn't where it is supposed to be set, thus, you are waaaay
down on the slope of the crystal filters, and the receiver is essentially
deaf. I'll measure the LO frequency on my 2N2/20 later this afternoon
to get you in the right region.
The other problem might be that the J176 audio mute switch (Q16)
isn't conducting as it should be, thus not letting audio get from
the preamp to the main amp. A quick check for this problem would be
to short the Drain and Source leads together to see if the audio
picks up. On my 2N2/20, a 1 microvolt signal will supply room filling
volume with the audio pot set midway.
More later after I measure the Rx LO frequency.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
3272|3267|2005-05-27 15:22:49|DPhill1019@aol.com|Re: 2N2 20 Transceiver - RX working (sort of)|In a message dated 5/27/2005 11:36:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jokortge@prodigy.net writes:
OWSEM
Neat stuff Jim! I watch the Ospreys at a lake were the dogs and I walk in
the PMs. There are a pair of nesting Bald Eagles in the area also and I watched
them bug one of the Ospreys until he/she dropped the trout. I never get
tired of watching them fish. I have had them drop from the sky 50 yards away from
me in a float tube and snare very nice rainbows.
I am still gathering parts for the Epiphyte 3 although I do have 2 CA3020s so
I should have something together for the fall.
73
Doug Phillips
W7RDP
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim Kortge wrote:
>>
>
> Serge,
>
> Sorry for the delay in answering. If you go to the OWSEM web site,
> you'll know what I have been up to since returning from Dayton.
>
> As for the weak audio on the 2N2/20, two thoughts emerge. The first is
> that the LO isn't where it is supposed to be set, thus, you are waaaay
> down on the slope of the crystal filters, and the receiver is essentially
> deaf. I'll measure the LO frequency on my 2N2/20 later this afternoon
> to get you in the right region.
>
> The other problem might be that the J176 audio mute switch (Q16)
> isn't conducting as it should be, thus not letting audio get from
> the preamp to the main amp. A quick check for this problem would be
> to short the Drain and Source leads together to see if the audio
> picks up. On my 2N2/20, a 1 microvolt signal will supply room filling
> volume with the audio pot set midway.
>
> More later after I measure the Rx LO frequency.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Serge,
Here is an update......
The LO on my 2N2/20 is running at 10.999400 MHz, right where it
ought to be with the LO below the center of the xtal filter so
that the xtal filter is being used as an upper sideband filter.
I'm guessing that your LO should be approximately the same setting,
as the center of all of the filters are nearly the same, rig to
rig.
Another thought surfaced too. If you used the MPSH10 transistor
in the IF Amplifier, did you interchange the base and emitter leads
on those? The MPSH10 has a pin out of base - emitter - collector
whereas the PN2222 has a pin out of emitter - base - collector.
Having the pin out wrong would cause a loss of about 35 dB of gain
the IF Amp provides when working correctly, plus probably some
attenuation of the signal trying to make its way through a two
transistor stage that is non-functional.
If I think of anything else, I'll let you know.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
Hello-
Does anyone know of books, magazine articles or websites that have construction articles for homebrew shortwave tube and transistor radio sets? I would like to build a medium to high performance shortwave receiver. Are there any kits besides Ten-Tec?
Thanks, Byron.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3275|3267|2005-05-28 00:08:56|smbertuzzo@rogers.com|Re: 2N2 20 Transceiver - RX working (sort of)|Thank you for your response Jim. By the way, no need to apologise as
I realize that you are very busy this time of the year.
Well, I measure my LO frequency and it was 10.999.40 MHz. So that it
is where it should be as per your email. I next checked the J176 by
shorting the Drain and the Source with no change in audio output
level. I then checked the MPSH10 to ensure that I had not reversed
the emitter and the base and all was fine.
I did notice something peculiar however with the RX RF control. I am
not able to detect a change when I vary the control over its range.
I would expect that I should detect some difference?
I think I will leave it alone for tonight. It is coming up to
midnight and will take another stab at it tomorrow.
In the meantime thank you for your help. Have a great weekend.
Regards,
Serge
VA3SB
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
> Jim Kortge wrote:
> >>
> >
> > Serge,
> >
> > Sorry for the delay in answering. If you go to the OWSEM web
site,
> > you'll know what I have been up to since returning from Dayton.
> >
> > As for the weak audio on the 2N2/20, two thoughts emerge. The
first is
> > that the LO isn't where it is supposed to be set, thus, you are
waaaay
> > down on the slope of the crystal filters, and the receiver is
essentially
> > deaf. I'll measure the LO frequency on my 2N2/20 later this
afternoon
> > to get you in the right region.
> >
> > The other problem might be that the J176 audio mute switch (Q16)
> > isn't conducting as it should be, thus not letting audio get from
> > the preamp to the main amp. A quick check for this problem would
be
> > to short the Drain and Source leads together to see if the audio
> > picks up. On my 2N2/20, a 1 microvolt signal will supply room
filling
> > volume with the audio pot set midway.
> >
> > More later after I measure the Rx LO frequency.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> Serge,
>
> Here is an update......
>
> The LO on my 2N2/20 is running at 10.999400 MHz, right where it
> ought to be with the LO below the center of the xtal filter so
> that the xtal filter is being used as an upper sideband filter.
> I'm guessing that your LO should be approximately the same setting,
> as the center of all of the filters are nearly the same, rig to
> rig.
>
> Another thought surfaced too. If you used the MPSH10 transistor
> in the IF Amplifier, did you interchange the base and emitter leads
> on those? The MPSH10 has a pin out of base - emitter - collector
> whereas the PN2222 has a pin out of emitter - base - collector.
> Having the pin out wrong would cause a loss of about 35 dB of gain
> the IF Amp provides when working correctly, plus probably some
> attenuation of the signal trying to make its way through a two
> transistor stage that is non-functional.
>
> If I think of anything else, I'll let you know.
>
> 72 and kind regards,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
smbertuzzo@rogers.com wrote:
> Thank you for your response Jim. By the way, no need to apologise as
> I realize that you are very busy this time of the year.
>
> Well, I measure my LO frequency and it was 10.999.40 MHz. So that it
> is where it should be as per your email. I next checked the J176 by
> shorting the Drain and the Source with no change in audio output
> level. I then checked the MPSH10 to ensure that I had not reversed
> the emitter and the base and all was fine.
>
> I did notice something peculiar however with the RX RF control. I am
> not able to detect a change when I vary the control over its range.
> I would expect that I should detect some difference?
Very much so. From end to end, you should see about 60 dB of
attenuation. Something probable wrong there Serge.
>
> I think I will leave it alone for tonight. It is coming up to
> midnight and will take another stab at it tomorrow.
>
> In the meantime thank you for your help. Have a great weekend.
You too... Sounds like the rig is close, but something not
quite right at the front-end that is causing the audio problems.
72 and TTUL,
Jim, K8IQY
PS.....how much do you love the nest survey shots that I
took day before yesterday. I've never seen a day old osprey.
Too cool!
|
3277|3267|2005-05-28 11:46:44|smbertuzzo@rogers.com|Re: 2N2 20 Transceiver - RX working (sort of)|Thank you for your response Jim. Yes, I forgot to mention those
shots on the website are fabulous. It is incredible to see such
fantastic shots! You folks are doing a great job..keep up the good
work.
As for the RF gain control. Seems very straight forward - I will
have to go back and check the rf gain control board for possible
shorts...should be esy with a led, diorde, resistor and a pot!!
In one way, I am glad to have a bit of an issue (at least I can hear
some very faint CW which means the receiver is working) but I am now
getting to use some of my test equipment (scope/frequency counter)
that I have not used in many many years...
Thanks again and I will keep you posted on developments..
Serge
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
> smbertuzzo@r... wrote:
> > Thank you for your response Jim. By the way, no need to
apologise as
> > I realize that you are very busy this time of the year.
> >
> > Well, I measure my LO frequency and it was 10.999.40 MHz. So
that it
> > is where it should be as per your email. I next checked the J176
by
> > shorting the Drain and the Source with no change in audio output
> > level. I then checked the MPSH10 to ensure that I had not
reversed
> > the emitter and the base and all was fine.
> >
> > I did notice something peculiar however with the RX RF control.
I am
> > not able to detect a change when I vary the control over its
range.
> > I would expect that I should detect some difference?
>
> Very much so. From end to end, you should see about 60 dB of
> attenuation. Something probable wrong there Serge.
> >
> > I think I will leave it alone for tonight. It is coming up to
> > midnight and will take another stab at it tomorrow.
> >
> > In the meantime thank you for your help. Have a great weekend.
>
> You too... Sounds like the rig is close, but something not
> quite right at the front-end that is causing the audio problems.
>
> 72 and TTUL,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS.....how much do you love the nest survey shots that I
> took day before yesterday. I've never seen a day old osprey.
> Too cool!
Serge,
I often times have more fun trouble shooting my mistakes, than during the
actual building.
73
----- Original Message -----
From: <smbertuzzo@rogers.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 10:46 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2 20 Transceiver - RX working (sort of)
> Thank you for your response Jim. Yes, I forgot to mention those
> shots on the website are fabulous. It is incredible to see such
> fantastic shots! You folks are doing a great job..keep up the good
> work.
>
> As for the RF gain control. Seems very straight forward - I will
> have to go back and check the rf gain control board for possible
> shorts...should be esy with a led, diorde, resistor and a pot!!
>
> In one way, I am glad to have a bit of an issue (at least I can hear
> some very faint CW which means the receiver is working) but I am now
> getting to use some of my test equipment (scope/frequency counter)
> that I have not used in many many years...
Thanks for your response Brian. Well, as I mention in my post, at
least I can tell that the receiver is working as I can actually copy
signals. It has to be something foolish. I will be checking the rig
again tomorrow.
Have a great weekend..
Serge
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Brian - KB9BVN" wrote:
> Serge,
>
> I often times have more fun trouble shooting my mistakes, than
during the
> actual building.
>
> 73
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 10:46 AM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2 20 Transceiver - RX working (sort of)
>
>
> > Thank you for your response Jim. Yes, I forgot to mention those
> > shots on the website are fabulous. It is incredible to see such
> > fantastic shots! You folks are doing a great job..keep up the
good
> > work.
> >
> > As for the RF gain control. Seems very straight forward - I will
> > have to go back and check the rf gain control board for possible
> > shorts...should be esy with a led, diorde, resistor and a pot!!
> >
> > In one way, I am glad to have a bit of an issue (at least I can
hear
> > some very faint CW which means the receiver is working) but I am
now
> > getting to use some of my test equipment (scope/frequency
counter)
> > that I have not used in many many years...
Well, had a chance to work on the receiver this afternoon. I did
manage to increase the audio level to an acceptable level. It was a
poor connection in the main audio amplifer circuit. Very pleased to
find that problem. Spent a good part of the afternoon listening to
the contest on 20 M. Very, very nice receiver. In fact, my son (23)
came into the shack and asked what I was doing. I explained to him
that I just finished this receiver, he put the headphones on and I
asked him to tune the band with all the cw activity from the
contest. He said " that is too cool!". I guess that is a good
thing, Hi hi.
This evening I built up the TX LO and the Mixer. Hope to finish off
the rig by the end of this week. I am a bit anxious to finish off
the TX now that the receiver is working like it should...
Have a great week!
Regards,
Serge
VA3SB
|
3281|3280|2005-05-30 10:07:15|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2 20 Transceiver - Update|smbertuzzo@rogers.com wrote:
> Well, had a chance to work on the receiver this afternoon. I did
> manage to increase the audio level to an acceptable level. It was a
> poor connection in the main audio amplifer circuit. Very pleased to
> find that problem. Spent a good part of the afternoon listening to
> the contest on 20 M. Very, very nice receiver.
What about the issue of the RG gain pot not making any difference
in output audio? That still bothers me.
In fact, my son (23)
> came into the shack and asked what I was doing. I explained to him
> that I just finished this receiver, he put the headphones on and I
> asked him to tune the band with all the cw activity from the
> contest. He said " that is too cool!". I guess that is a good
> thing, Hi hi.
Have you tried driving a speaker with the rig? It ought to
drive a speaker as well as the headphones. At least mine does.
>
> This evening I built up the TX LO and the Mixer. Hope to finish off
> the rig by the end of this week. I am a bit anxious to finish off
> the TX now that the receiver is working like it should...
Then we can make a QSO. That sure would be fun. I haven't worked
a 2N2/20 yet.
>
> Have a great week!
You too, and thanks for the update.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
3282|3280|2005-05-30 23:03:32|smbertuzzo@rogers.com|Re: 2N2 20 Transceiver - Update|Jim, good evening and thank you for your response. I aplogise for
not mentioning the RF pot issue in my last post. As it turns out it
does have quite an impact on the signal. The problem I believe was
the way I had mounted the pot on the pcb, one of the tabs was
probably making contact with the ground plane. I simply moved the
pot (tabs) a 1/16" out and the RF gain control works fine.
I have not yet tried to drive a speaker and will attempt that the
next chance I get. Indeed a 2 X 2N2 20 qso would be great and I am
certain we should be able to make a go of it.
I will try to complete the rig before this weekend and will keep you
posted on developments. The receiver sure sounds great Jim.
Have a great evening....
Serge
VA3SB
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
> smbertuzzo@r... wrote:
> > Well, had a chance to work on the receiver this afternoon. I did
> > manage to increase the audio level to an acceptable level. It
was a
> > poor connection in the main audio amplifer circuit. Very pleased
to
> > find that problem. Spent a good part of the afternoon listening
to
> > the contest on 20 M. Very, very nice receiver.
>
> What about the issue of the RG gain pot not making any difference
> in output audio? That still bothers me.
>
> In fact, my son (23)
> > came into the shack and asked what I was doing. I explained to
him
> > that I just finished this receiver, he put the headphones on and
I
> > asked him to tune the band with all the cw activity from the
> > contest. He said " that is too cool!". I guess that is a good
> > thing, Hi hi.
>
> Have you tried driving a speaker with the rig? It ought to
> drive a speaker as well as the headphones. At least mine does.
>
> >
> > This evening I built up the TX LO and the Mixer. Hope to finish
off
> > the rig by the end of this week. I am a bit anxious to finish
off
> > the TX now that the receiver is working like it should...
>
> Then we can make a QSO. That sure would be fun. I haven't worked
> a 2N2/20 yet.
>
> >
> > Have a great week!
>
> You too, and thanks for the update.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Ian Purdie has a neat-looking SW regen his site:
http://www.electronics-tutorials.com/receivers/regen-radio-receiver.htm Or there's another one here:
http://www.njqrp.org/regen/ Both are based on Charles Kitchin's regen designs are are supposed to work quite well, YMMV.
I'm currently building a 40m regen from the design found on Rick Anderson's page:
http://www.tricountyi.net/~randerse/regen.htm So far it's testing well, and it could easily be modified for different bands of interest.
-pete-
Byron Tatum <
bjtatum@ev1.net> wrote:
Hello-
Does anyone know of books, magazine articles or websites that have construction articles for homebrew shortwave tube and transistor radio sets? I would like to build a medium to high performance shortwave receiver. Are there any kits besides Ten-Tec?
Thanks, Byron.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim,
Feel free to delete this off topic note.
From the science page of this mornings Boston Globe, an article
about the return of Osprey's in Ohio
www.boston.com/news/science/articles/2005/06/07/experts_ohios_osprey_po
pulation_growing/
Note that this is accessable from a Linux/Mozilla machine, but if
you go in from Windows, they want you to log in...go figure.
See you folks at Lobstercon!
/dave nt1u
|
3285|3284|2005-06-08 12:58:48|Jim Kortge|Re: OT: osprey|nt1u wrote:
>
> Jim,
> Feel free to delete this off topic note.
> From the science page of this mornings Boston Globe, an article
> about the return of Osprey's in Ohio
>
>
> www.boston.com/news/science/articles/2005/06/07/experts_ohios_osprey_po
> pulation_growing/
>
> Note that this is accessable from a Linux/Mozilla machine, but if
> you go in from Windows, they want you to log in...go figure.
>
> See you folks at Lobstercon!
> /dave nt1u
Dave,
Thanks for sending that along. I'll forward it to our local
osprey lovers, and our resident field biologist.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
Hello Jim:
Back to my 2N2 project after a two week business trip. Am I ever
glad to be home!!!
You may recall that the last time we communicated the TX LO was not
working. I went back and checked the TX LO circuit and found a poor
solder joint. Touched it up and voila! Output of about 1.2 V P-P to
the input of the (LO) TX Mixer and only when the TX VCC line is
activated.
Transmitter still does not work however. I am not quite sure what
the IF signal should look like at the IF output of the TX mixer and
what level it should be to the input of the Cascode amp?
Getting close I think! Your help / guidance would be greatly
appreciated.
Regards,
Serge
VA3SB
|
3287|3287|2005-06-21 19:46:15|Jim Kortge|Re: Back to the 2N2 20 rig!!|Serge Bertuzzo-TM wrote:
>
>
> Please note Jim that this is a duplicate message that I also posted to the 2N2 40 Yahoo site. I noticed that there was no activity (except me) on the Yahoo site for the past week so I thought I would copy my message to you directly...
>
> I trust you had a great weekend...regards and thanks in advance.
>
>
> Hello Jim:
>
> Back to my 2N2 project after a two week business trip. Am I ever
> glad to be home!!!
>
> You may recall that the last time we communicated the TX LO was not
> working. I went back and checked the TX LO circuit and found a poor
> solder joint. Touched it up and voila! Output of about 1.2 V P-P to
> the input of the (LO) TX Mixer and only when the TX VCC line is
> activated.
Serge,
That sounds encouraging!
>
> Transmitter still does not work however. I am not quite sure what
> the IF signal should look like at the IF output of the TX mixer and
> what level it should be to the input of the Cascode amp?
It's kind of a ratty signal, since it has several signal components
of various amplitudes. Of course the one we want, it is one at
14 MHz, but that won't be all that obvious unless you have a spectrum
analyzer to look at the IF port. As for signal level, on my rig I'm
getting about 100 mv p-p or 30 mv rms on the primary winding of T9.
The signal level into the Tx mixer LO port is 700 mv p-p or 270 mv
rms, and the signal level on the vfo side of R68 is 800 mv p-p or
290 mv rms.
Coming out of the secondary of T10 is 1.5v p-p or 490 mv rms with
TC8 and TC9 peaked. That's with the TR1 wiper setting at ground,
so the driver transistor isn't being driven.
>
> Getting close I think! Your help / guidance would be greatly
> appreciated.
Yup.....sure sounds like it.
72 and glad you're back from the business trip and can play
radio again.
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Jim! I had a little bit of time this afternoon to look at the
rig - I got out of a meeting early and am already at home- and have
some encouraging news.
I re-read your email and realized that signal levels you gave me
were with both TC8 and TC9 peaked. I peaked both trimmers and
obtained the following measurements:
The primary winding of T9 now has a signal(nice sinewave)level of
approx 140 mv p-p. (close to your 100mv signal)
The secondary winding of T10 provide an beautiful sine wave output
of approx. 1.5 V p-p.
I then slowly cranked up the TR1 pot to increase the drive to the
driver transistor and ended up with approximately 1 watt output
maximum to my dummy load. I also measured the signal level at the
base of the 2SC2166 final transistor and measure approximately 5.5 V
p-p (with TR1 at max). I have re-checked the remainder of the
circuit (i.e. the LP filter ) and all seems to be in order. I assume
that the 5.5 V is what I should be seeing at the base of 2166?
I also measure the input to the LP filter and obtained a signal
level of approx 19 V p-p. At this point, I am not quite sure what I
can adjust to get more output from the final.
Time for a break...I am very pleased that the transmitter is indeed
working however it is sooooooo close!!!!!...thanks again in advance.
Serge
VA3SB
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
> Serge Bertuzzo-TM wrote:
> >
> >
> > Please note Jim that this is a duplicate message that I also
posted to the 2N2 40 Yahoo site. I noticed that there was no
activity (except me) on the Yahoo site for the past week so I
thought I would copy my message to you directly...
> >
> > I trust you had a great weekend...regards and thanks in advance.
> >
> >
> > Hello Jim:
> >
> > Back to my 2N2 project after a two week business trip. Am I ever
> > glad to be home!!!
> >
> > You may recall that the last time we communicated the TX LO was
not
> > working. I went back and checked the TX LO circuit and found a
poor
> > solder joint. Touched it up and voila! Output of about 1.2 V P-P
to
> > the input of the (LO) TX Mixer and only when the TX VCC line is
> > activated.
>
> Serge,
>
> That sounds encouraging!
> >
> > Transmitter still does not work however. I am not quite sure what
> > the IF signal should look like at the IF output of the TX mixer
and
> > what level it should be to the input of the Cascode amp?
>
> It's kind of a ratty signal, since it has several signal components
> of various amplitudes. Of course the one we want, it is one at
> 14 MHz, but that won't be all that obvious unless you have a
spectrum
> analyzer to look at the IF port. As for signal level, on my rig I'm
> getting about 100 mv p-p or 30 mv rms on the primary winding of T9.
> The signal level into the Tx mixer LO port is 700 mv p-p or 270 mv
> rms, and the signal level on the vfo side of R68 is 800 mv p-p or
> 290 mv rms.
>
> Coming out of the secondary of T10 is 1.5v p-p or 490 mv rms with
> TC8 and TC9 peaked. That's with the TR1 wiper setting at ground,
> so the driver transistor isn't being driven.
> >
> > Getting close I think! Your help / guidance would be greatly
> > appreciated.
>
> Yup.....sure sounds like it.
>
> 72 and glad you're back from the business trip and can play
> radio again.
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Hello: on one of the sites i visited related to this rig I saw a
reference to a book:
"THE 2N2/40 BOOK (originally printed as the Winter 1998 QRPp) is the
complete step-by-step construction guide of Jim Kortge's now famous
2N2/40 QRP Transceiver. This is a build-it-from-scratch rig, fully
illustrated manual for a rig that looks good and works even better.
Includes addendum pages of the changes, errors and mods that have
cropped up from the original printing."
I also saw it was out of print. Umm... does anybody have a copy for
sale? can it be scanned / posted with authors permission of course. I
got no reply to an email to NA5N. Is it already available for DL some
where ?
|
3290|3289|2005-07-09 09:40:28|Kip Williams N6NVP|Re: 2n2 -40|I got this from Paul, NA5N, at the end of May.
"The 2N2/40 book is $12, which INCLUDES shipping.
The Data Book for Homebrewers and QRPers is $20.
Either can be ordered from me at:
Paul Harden, NA5N
P.O. Box 757
Socorro, NM 87801
The Data Book is also sold by Kanga U.S., but not the 2N2/40.
72, Paul NA5N"
_____
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
hamac7ek
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2005 6:27 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] 2n2 -40
Hello: on one of the sites i visited related to this rig I saw a
reference to a book:
"THE 2N2/40 BOOK (originally printed as the Winter 1998 QRPp) is the
complete step-by-step construction guide of Jim Kortge's now famous
2N2/40 QRP Transceiver. This is a build-it-from-scratch rig, fully
illustrated manual for a rig that looks good and works even better.
Includes addendum pages of the changes, errors and mods that have
cropped up from the original printing."
I also saw it was out of print. Umm... does anybody have a copy for
sale? can it be scanned / posted with authors permission of course. I
got no reply to an email to NA5N. Is it already available for DL some
where ?
_____
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
* Visit your group "2n2-40 <
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40> "
on the web.
* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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_____
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]What is the last version of the 2n2-40 that has NO errors in the
instructions?
The original artical had eroors in it.
Has anyone used the latest NA5N $12 book to build a working 2n2/40
without deviating from the book instructions?
We have scout projects that rely on on cheap home brew plans so I wanted
to know if the $12 book is a good investment or if the $12 book fails to
hit the mark because it has errors in it.
Does the $12 book have part lists and sources?
and whats this book:
The Data Book for Homebrewers and QRPers is $20.
Does it have the 2n2.40 project in it?
72 Rob KB3BYT
http://www.learnmorsecode.com/k3peg.html Kip Williams N6NVP wrote:
>I got this from Paul, NA5N, at the end of May.
>
>
>
>"The 2N2/40 book is $12, which INCLUDES shipping.
>
>The Data Book for Homebrewers and QRPers is $20.
>
>Either can be ordered from me at:
>
>Paul Harden, NA5N
>
>P.O. Box 757
>
>Socorro, NM 87801
>
>
>
>The Data Book is also sold by Kanga U.S., but not the 2N2/40.
>
>
>
>72, Paul NA5N"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
>From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
>hamac7ek
>Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2005 6:27 AM
>To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2n2-40] 2n2 -40
>
>
>
>Hello: on one of the sites i visited related to this rig I saw a
>reference to a book:
>
>"THE 2N2/40 BOOK (originally printed as the Winter 1998 QRPp) is the
>complete step-by-step construction guide of Jim Kortge's now famous
>2N2/40 QRP Transceiver. This is a build-it-from-scratch rig, fully
>illustrated manual for a rig that looks good and works even better.
>Includes addendum pages of the changes, errors and mods that have
>cropped up from the original printing."
>
>I also saw it was out of print. Umm... does anybody have a copy for
>sale? can it be scanned / posted with authors permission of course. I
>got no reply to an email to NA5N. Is it already available for DL some
>where ?
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
>YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
>
>* Visit your group "2n2-40 <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40> "
>on the web.
>
>* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>
>* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
><http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service.
>
>
>
> _____
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hello everyone. Just wanted to let you know that my 2N2 20 rig is up
and running. I have it set to 3.5 watts out and had a little fun over
the weekend in the IARU contest. I made about 40 qsos in about 1 1/2
hours.
Now on to the enclosure.
Jim, we can try a 2N2 20 X2 qso when you are ready...let me know..
Regards,
Serge
VA3SB
|
3293|3292|2005-07-11 10:11:48|Bob Miller|Re: 2N2 20 Rig|Serge,
Congratulations on your build. I've built both the 40 and 20 meter versions of Jim's design and both work very well. If you documented your build, via a website, please pass the URL along to us, or at least post a picture. You can check mine out at
http://www.wb6kwt.com I'm building a 20mtr SSB rig now, called the Taurus. It was designed by a Polish ham, SP5DDJ, and I'm the first non-Polish ham to build it. Not as much challange as the 2N2 rigs because of the circuit boards but fun just the same. It's on my site, the receiver is working and I'm waiting on a couple of parts to finish up the transmitter board.
73's
Bob
WB6KWT
"
smbertuzzo@rogers.com" <
smbertuzzo@rogers.com> wrote:
Hello everyone. Just wanted to let you know that my 2N2 20 rig is up
and running. I have it set to 3.5 watts out and had a little fun over
the weekend in the IARU contest. I made about 40 qsos in about 1 1/2
hours.
Now on to the enclosure.
Jim, we can try a 2N2 20 X2 qso when you are ready...let me know..
Regards,
Serge
VA3SB
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---------------------------------
---------------------------------
Sell on Yahoo! Auctions - No fees. Bid on great items.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thank you for your email Bob. I thoroughly enjoyed putting the rig
together. I must say however, that this project gave me the
opportunity to learn how to use a scope again after some 25 years! I
forgot what a great piece of test equipment it is!
It was quite a thrill to hearcw from it. My first contact with the
rig was with a German station followed by a French station then a
Bulgarian station. Not bad first three contacts!
I suspect that the case will take me some time to complete. I really
want to take my time with it. I do have some photos that I took
during the building process that I will be posting to the list.
Have a great day and congrats on your web site. Some very
interesting projects.
Regards,
Serge
VA3SB
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Bob Miller
wrote:
> Serge,
>
> Congratulations on your build. I've built both the 40 and 20 meter
versions of Jim's design and both work very well. If you documented
your build, via a website, please pass the URL along to us, or at
least post a picture. You can check mine out at
http://www.wb6kwt.com
>
> I'm building a 20mtr SSB rig now, called the Taurus. It was
designed by a Polish ham, SP5DDJ, and I'm the first non-Polish ham
to build it. Not as much challange as the 2N2 rigs because of the
circuit boards but fun just the same. It's on my site, the receiver
is working and I'm waiting on a couple of parts to finish up the
transmitter board.
>
> 73's
>
> Bob
> WB6KWT
>
> "smbertuzzo@r..." wrote:
> Hello everyone. Just wanted to let you know that my 2N2 20 rig is
up
> and running. I have it set to 3.5 watts out and had a little fun
over
> the weekend in the IARU contest. I made about 40 qsos in about 1
1/2
> hours.
>
> Now on to the enclosure.
>
> Jim, we can try a 2N2 20 X2 qso when you are ready...let me know..
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Serge
> VA3SB
>
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Craft hobby Hobby and craft supply Ham radio
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> Visit your group "2n2-40" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sell on Yahoo! Auctions - No fees. Bid on great items.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi: I'm trying to reach paul harden again. i am after his 2n240 build
book. kip sent me an email address he got his book from. i appreciate
that it's summer and he has other things probably going on. i sent 12
bucks to that po box and haven't got any reply yet after 2 weeks by
snail or email. thots ? suggestions ? anyboody want to sell theirs in
decent shape for $12.oo ? Thanks for any helpful replies to group or
direct. Lonn ac7ek
|
3296|3295|2005-07-24 21:15:39|Bob Miller|Re: again 2n240 Book|I obtained a copy of that book and after I got it I found that the information was for the old version of the 2n2-40 and I wanted to build the + version. You don't really need the book just go to the Yahoo Group site and to K8IQY's site and look at the photos and read the messages. Ask question here and Jim is always willing to give help.
Bob
WB6KWT
hamac7ek <
ldmartin@pacifier.com> wrote:
Hi: I'm trying to reach paul harden again. i am after his 2n240 build
book. kip sent me an email address he got his book from. i appreciate
that it's summer and he has other things probably going on. i sent 12
bucks to that po box and haven't got any reply yet after 2 weeks by
snail or email. thots ? suggestions ? anyboody want to sell theirs in
decent shape for $12.oo ? Thanks for any helpful replies to group or
direct. Lonn ac7ek
---------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
Visit your group "2n2-40" on the web.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi All !!
I just finished building the 2n2-20. The 2n2-40 is working fine and
is a great rig. Still some problems with the 2n2-30, though.
What's with Q2 at the front end of the 2n2-20 rig? I can vary the
base voltage via the RF gain pot giving a base voltage of .25 to .65
volts. Is this stage supposed to have gain? If so, mine doesn't
work. It only attenuates the signal. The receiver is great if I
short around the filter network by placing a jumper from the antenna
to the base of Q2. Then I can hear many CW QSOs. I also tried
increasing the 3.9k resistor by 400 ohms...no help. So then, I
decreased it by 400 ohms...still no help.
My Local OSC is set for 10,999,450 HZ. So I can hear signals in the
passband of the filter.
I have rebuilt this Q2 stage twice. I'd really like to have it
built and perform as K8IQY designed it. I'm gonna keep trying.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
John Wells
Ki4KWM
PS> Just recently completed and had a QSO on my Multipig plus
(another fun deal). :-)) 73 ..
|
3298|3298|2005-08-01 13:45:59|Bill, N5HNN|Re: Digest Number 613|Q2 is an r.f. attenuator and does not provide any gain in that circuit. With
less than .5 volts or so on the base of the transistor, it is effectively an
"open" switch. TC1 and L1 form a series resonant circuit when Q2 is not
"forward" biased. When forward biased by a greater than .5 or .6 volts at
the base of Q2, the transistor breaks up this series resonant circuit,
providing rf attenuation or isolation of the rx from the tx power when
transmitting.
Bill Heishman, N5HNN
----- Original Message -----
From: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2005 4:31 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Digest Number 613
> There is 1 message in this issue.
>
> Topics in this digest:
>
> 1. 2n2-20 Q2
> From: "John Wells" <JWells6391@aol.com>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 00:25:46 -0000
> From: "John Wells" <JWells6391@aol.com>
> Subject: 2n2-20 Q2
>
> Hi All !!
>
> I just finished building the 2n2-20. The 2n2-40 is working fine and
> is a great rig. Still some problems with the 2n2-30, though.
>
> What's with Q2 at the front end of the 2n2-20 rig? I can vary the
> base voltage via the RF gain pot giving a base voltage of .25 to .65
> volts. Is this stage supposed to have gain? If so, mine doesn't
> work. It only attenuates the signal. The receiver is great if I
> short around the filter network by placing a jumper from the antenna
> to the base of Q2. Then I can hear many CW QSOs. I also tried
> increasing the 3.9k resistor by 400 ohms...no help. So then, I
> decreased it by 400 ohms...still no help.
> My Local OSC is set for 10,999,450 HZ. So I can hear signals in the
> passband of the filter.
> I have rebuilt this Q2 stage twice. I'd really like to have it
> built and perform as K8IQY designed it. I'm gonna keep trying.
> Any suggestions would be helpful.
>
> John Wells
> Ki4KWM
>
> PS> Just recently completed and had a QSO on my Multipig plus
> (another fun deal). :-)) 73 ..
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
Thanks, Bill
So it appears that my Q2 is normal.
Now I will look elsewhere for my problem. I'm getting a good deal of
signal loss through the L12 and L13 filter. I'm checking it next.
John
KI4KWM
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Bill, N5HNN" wrote:
> Q2 is an r.f. attenuator and does not provide any gain in that
circuit. With
> less than .5 volts or so on the base of the transistor, it is
effectively an
> "open" switch. TC1 and L1 form a series resonant circuit when Q2 is
not
> "forward" biased. When forward biased by a greater than .5 or .6
volts at
> the base of Q2, the transistor breaks up this series resonant
circuit,
> providing rf attenuation or isolation of the rx from the tx power
when
> transmitting.
>
> Bill Heishman, N5HNN
>
>
>> >
> > Topics in this digest:
> >
> > 1. 2n2-20 Q2
> > From: "John Wells"
> >
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 00:25:46 -0000
> > From: "John Wells"
> > Subject: 2n2-20 Q2
> >
> > Hi All !!
> >
> > I just finished building the 2n2-20. --snip> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
------
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
------
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
John Wells wrote:
> Hi All !!
Greetings John.......
>
> I just finished building the 2n2-20.
Good for you. Another one lives!! :-)
The 2n2-40 is working fine and
> is a great rig. Still some problems with the 2n2-30, though.
I assume that you meant 2N2/20, and not 2N2/30.
>
> What's with Q2 at the front end of the 2n2-20 rig? I can vary the
> base voltage via the RF gain pot giving a base voltage of .25 to .65
> volts. Is this stage supposed to have gain?
No, only attenuation via turning on Q2 and shunting some of the
signal appearing between TC1 and L1 to ground. When the RF Gain
control is at maximum, the voltage on the base of Q2 should
be at its minimum.
If so, mine doesn't
> work. It only attenuates the signal.
That's its function......
The receiver is great if I
> short around the filter network by placing a jumper from the antenna
> to the base of Q2. Then I can hear many CW QSOs. I also tried
> increasing the 3.9k resistor by 400 ohms...no help. So then, I
> decreased it by 400 ohms...still no help.
Can you hear signals when the RF Gain control is the opposite
way, when the voltage on the base of Q2 is at 0.25 volts as
you measure it? If you still can't hear signals, then something
is wrong in the way that Rx T/R switch is working. Disconnect
the collector of Q2 from the junction of TC1 and L1 and see how
it works. Another possibility is that you have D7 installed the
wrong way, and it is always conducting because the positive
"keyline" voltage is making it conduct on receive. D7's not
supposed to conduct receive, but be reversed biased by the
+12 volts on the keyline lead.
> My Local OSC is set for 10,999,450 HZ. So I can hear signals in the
> passband of the filter.
Where did the filter crystals come from. Did you get those
from me? The LO setting you have is right on the money.
Mine is at 10.999400 MHz
> I have rebuilt this Q2 stage twice.
Nuts....we don't want you doing that! :-)
I'd really like to have it
> built and perform as K8IQY designed it.
Me too. You are close. Something minor is wrong,
and hopefully, something described above.
I'm gonna keep trying.
> Any suggestions would be helpful.
See above....
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
"I assume that you meant 2N2/20, and not 2N2/30".
Nope..I was just updating my QRP Project progress..
2N2/40....finished and working fine
2N2/30 ... Finished..but I have problems with the receiver and never got back
to it.
2N2/20 ... Finished and work in progress
"Where did the filter crystals come from. Did you get those
from me? The LO setting you have is right on the money.
Mine is at 10.999400 MHz"
I got the Xtals from Mouser and matched them using the KD1JV display in Xtal
Matching mode.
Yes the Q2 stage is working and performing as it should. D7 is OK.. It's
installed correctly. I even tested it on the M-cubed semicondutor analyzer.
Good diode...no leakage.
I recall seeing a similar circuit in the Norcal20 schematic. The only
problem I still have is that the signal drops as it goes thru the Low Pass filter.
Either that or I am losing gain prior to the mixer somewhere. I disabled the
RX mute circuitry and there was little change. I keep getting stuck on the
fact that a jumper from the Antenna connector to the filter side of TC1 ( with
the filter connection to TC1 disconnected) lets the receiver operate just
fine...I can hear the weak signals out there as well as the ear-numbing strong
signals. But if I reconnect the filter line to TC1, the receiver becomes a brick
and essentially deaf.
Thanks for the suggestions in your previous post.
John Wells
KI4KWM
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3302|3297|2005-08-02 21:31:46|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-20 Q2|JWells6391@aol.com wrote:
> "I assume that you meant 2N2/20, and not 2N2/30".
>
> Nope..I was just updating my QRP Project progress..
> 2N2/40....finished and working fine
> 2N2/30 ... Finished..but I have problems with the receiver and never got back
> to it.
> 2N2/20 ... Finished and work in progress
OK....you've got one of each. Neat!
>
> "Where did the filter crystals come from. Did you get those
> from me? The LO setting you have is right on the money.
> Mine is at 10.999400 MHz"
>
> I got the Xtals from Mouser and matched them using the KD1JV display in Xtal
> Matching mode.
OK...that should play just fine.
>
> Yes the Q2 stage is working and performing as it should. D7 is OK.. It's
> installed correctly. I even tested it on the M-cubed semicondutor analyzer.
> Good diode...no leakage.
> I recall seeing a similar circuit in the Norcal20 schematic. The only
> problem I still have is that the signal drops as it goes thru the Low Pass filter.
It shouldn't a whole lot, unless the corner of the low pass filter is
too low, and the antenna signal isn't making it through. If you short
out the low pass filter does the signal level come back up to where
you are hearing all the signals on the band, i.e., the weak ones
as well as the loud ones?
> Either that or I am losing gain prior to the mixer somewhere. I disabled the
> RX mute circuitry and there was little change.
That's probably not the problem then.
I keep getting stuck on the
> fact that a jumper from the Antenna connector to the filter side of TC1 ( with
> the filter connection to TC1 disconnected) lets the receiver operate just
> fine...I can hear the weak signals out there as well as the ear-numbing strong
> signals. But if I reconnect the filter line to TC1, the receiver becomes a brick
> and essentially deaf.
Sure sounds like there is a problem with the low pass filter somewhere.
The is maybe 0.5 dB loss going through it, but at all the kind of
loss you are seeing. I'd do some checking there to make sure everything
is good, especially the windings on the toroids, and their ends being
stripped of insulation and no cold solder joint etc. Have someone
else look at how you built it compared to the schematic to make sure
you have all the parts in the right place. It's easy to over look
the same mistake time after time when you're the one who built it.
I know, done that many times!! :-)
>
> Thanks for the suggestions in your previous post.
You are welcome. We will get your rig working correctly.
That's a promise.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
|
3303|3303|2005-08-03 17:54:00|John Wells|Re: 2n2-20 Q2 ...RX now works fine :-))|After consulting my pals on Yahoo, I jumped in with renewed enthusiasm
and rebuilt the LP filter. I first disassembled the old one and
measured every part.
Measurements on my AMQRP Enhanced ELSIE.
C87 - -212pf -replaced with a poly cap which reads exactly 220pf
C86 - -663pf
C88 - -29pf
C93 - -56pf
L12 - -.35uh (after removing a turn) (go figure!)
L13 - -0.52uh
C94 - -0.99266pf ???duhhh (a 0.1 bypass by mistake)?? - -replaced
with 47pf.
OK...after rebuilding the LP filter the receiver hears just fine.
Now I can recheck the Keyline and get the Xmtr to specs.
John Wells
KI4KWM
Thanks to all for the support
|
3304|3303|2005-08-03 19:33:30|Brian Murrey|Re: 2n2-20 Q2 ...RX now works fine :-))|Awesome John!
I've said it before and I'll say it again....I get more satisfaction out of
finding and fixing my own boo boos than I do actually building stuff. Crazy
huh?
72 de KB9BVN
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wells" <JWells6391@aol.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 4:53 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2n2-20 Q2 ...RX now works fine :-))
> After consulting my pals on Yahoo, I jumped in with renewed enthusiasm
> and rebuilt the LP filter. I first disassembled the old one and
> measured every part.
>
> Measurements on my AMQRP Enhanced ELSIE.
>
> C87 - -212pf -replaced with a poly cap which reads exactly 220pf
> C86 - -663pf
> C88 - -29pf
> C93 - -56pf
> L12 - -.35uh (after removing a turn) (go figure!)
> L13 - -0.52uh
> C94 - -0.99266pf ???duhhh (a 0.1 bypass by mistake)?? - -replaced
> with 47pf.
>
> OK...after rebuilding the LP filter the receiver hears just fine.
> Now I can recheck the Keyline and get the Xmtr to specs.
> John Wells
> KI4KWM
>
> Thanks to all for the support
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
John Wells wrote:
> After consulting my pals on Yahoo, I jumped in with renewed enthusiasm
> and rebuilt the LP filter. I first disassembled the old one and
> measured every part.
>
> Measurements on my AMQRP Enhanced ELSIE.
>
> C87 - -212pf -replaced with a poly cap which reads exactly 220pf
> C86 - -663pf
> C88 - -29pf
> C93 - -56pf
> L12 - -.35uh (after removing a turn) (go figure!)
> L13 - -0.52uh
> C94 - -0.99266pf ???duhhh (a 0.1 bypass by mistake)?? - -replaced
> with 47pf.
Oh wow, that explains why no signal from the antenna was
getting through to the rest of the front-end. Essentially
a short to ground. By-the-way, what is the value of C85
that is in parallel with C94?
>
> OK...after rebuilding the LP filter the receiver hears just fine.
Good.......
> Now I can recheck the Keyline and get the Xmtr to specs.
Making great progress John. You'll have a fully functioning
transceiver in just a few more days hopefully.
72 and thanks for the update. Glad you found the problem,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
>
> Oh wow, that explains why no signal from the antenna was
> getting through to the rest of the front-end. Essentially
> a short to ground. By-the-way, what is the value of C85
> that is in parallel with C94?
> >
> > OK...after rebuilding the LP filter the receiver hears just fine.
Sorry I left C85 off my list. I can assure you that the 470pf is in the
circuit. :-))I was just comparing the parts list for the 2N2-40+ as listed in the
Files section to those on the schematics, specifically R57-59. the
parts list value differ from the schematic values, is the parts list
not valid for the 2N2-40+? if not, I will make up my own parts list
from the schematics.
is the parts list for the original 2N2-40 rig and not the 2N2-40+?
Al ve3gam
ref: Files section, entry 2N2222abcd02.pdf
|
3308|3307|2005-08-06 23:10:17|Holli Tosch|Re: 2N2-40+ parts list|hello
im sorry but you keep sending me these emails and i
have no clue what they are. plez stop sending them to
me. thank you
holli
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hsve3gam wrote:
> I was just comparing the parts list for the 2N2-40+ as listed in the
> Files section to those on the schematics, specifically R57-59. the
> parts list value differ from the schematic values, is the parts list
> not valid for the 2N2-40+? if not, I will make up my own parts list
> from the schematics.
>
> is the parts list for the original 2N2-40 rig and not the 2N2-40+?
>
> Al ve3gam
>
> ref: Files section, entry 2N2222abcd02.pdf
>
Jeff,
I don't know the answer to your question yet, but I'll find
out and post to the group what is the correct parts list.
Maybe it is time to compile a new one from the latest
2N2/40+ schematics.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
>
>
> ve3gam wrote:
> > I was just comparing the parts list for the 2N2-40+ as listed in
the
> > Files section to those on the schematics, specifically R57-59.
the
> > parts list value differ from the schematic values, is the parts
list
> > not valid for the 2N2-40+? if not, I will make up my own parts
list
> > from the schematics.
> >
> > is the parts list for the original 2N2-40 rig and not the 2N2-40+?
> >
> > Al ve3gam
> >
> > ref: Files section, entry 2N2222abcd02.pdf
> >
> Jeff,
>
> I don't know the answer to your question yet, but I'll find
> out and post to the group what is the correct parts list.
> Maybe it is time to compile a new one from the latest
> 2N2/40+ schematics.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
thanks Jim, by the way, name here is Al, and I live in St Thomas,
Ontario.
just getting interested in this method of construction and need to
prepare to take the plunge into it. I went looking for schematic info
on the 2n2-40 on the internet and could not find much, finally found
the af4ps site with the schematics and then joined this group and
found the schematics that you posted.
thanks for any info you can post about the 2n2-40+,
al ve3gamCan someone please post the 2N2-20 DC voltage and RMS voltage levels
for the Transmitter (from a known good unit) beginning at the mixer and
going through past the Driver? I'm sure others would find this useful,
too.
I've researched the list and elsewhere and haven't found them.
Thanks,
John
KI4KWM
|
3312|3312|2005-08-14 10:37:36|ve3gam|2n2-40+ up to date parts list|as far as i can tell, the parts list at
http://www.qsl.net/af4ps/2n2-40.html in the 'PDF document listing the parts by section' is a complete
up-to-date parts list except for R74 in the Adjustable Span RIT
section. I compared that list to the 'latest' 2n2-40+ schematics
listed in the Files section for the 2N2-40+ and all the parts
seemed to match. I added R74 to my list.
thanks to af4ps and other FPs for this list and the other info on
your site, Mac. I have some newbie type questions but I will pose
them in other posts.
al ve3gam
U R certainly welcome Al, but the thanks go to Jim. Send me a picture when
you finish, and I sincerely hope I will be one of your first QSOs!
-MAC-
AF4PS
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
ve3gam
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2005 10:37 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] 2n2-40+ up to date parts list
as far as i can tell, the parts list at
http://www.qsl.net/af4ps/2n2-40.html in the 'PDF document listing the parts by section' is a complete
up-to-date parts list except for R74 in the Adjustable Span RIT
section. I compared that list to the 'latest' 2n2-40+ schematics
listed in the Files section for the 2N2-40+ and all the parts
seemed to match. I added R74 to my list.
thanks to af4ps and other FPs for this list and the other info on
your site, Mac. I have some newbie type questions but I will pose
them in other posts.
al ve3gam
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I am interested in looking at building the 2n2-40+ and have rounded up a parts
list from the schematics on the yahoo group site and from Mac's af4ps site, but
before I proceed, I would like to find out about a few things:
for the 2n2-40+
1) is there a board layout for it? is there a preferred build order for each of the
sub-circuits? Larry K3PEG has a nice layout on the yahoo site in his extreme
manhattan construction and the rig could be built on modules rather than on
one board. Not sure which route to take.
2) what is the availability of parts for the 2n2-40+? it looks like most parts are
available from Mouser with some others from other suppliers.
3) in the yahoo group site, they talk about getting matched crystals, how hard is
it to match crystals for the project if none are avilable?
4) bifilar/trifilar windings - I think I have this figured out and would know what to
do to wind them and I did find that you should use #28 or #30 wire for them
(from yahoo group archives), preferably color coded for the bifilar and trifilar
windings. is there anything else that I should know before starting?
when I have more questions, I will post them here...on to collecting the parts...
and in the meantime working on a simpler manhattan project just to get my feet
wet.
al ve3gam
|
3315|3314|2005-08-16 00:51:45|Steve Ratzlaff|Re: newbie questions|Hi Al,
I've also been considering building this radio, and while I haven't gathered
parts yet, I have recently finished reading the complete Archive
posts--there's a wealth of info there, though hard to remember which
specific post had what.
I can comment on some of your questions.
2) I don't see any lack of current parts availability for any of the parts.
Mouser, Digi-Key, Dan's Small Parts, Dieter's Kits and Parts, etc.--just
those 4 ought to get you just about everything, and see my next comment for
crystal filter info.
3) It's probably no coincidence that the IF Jim chose is the same that
Elecraft uses. But it seems to be a closely guarded secret that one can
purchase a set of matched crystals from Elecraft for far less than what it
would take to buy a large batch of crystals and match them yourself. Simply
purchase from Elecraft:
K2KSB2XTLS
Matched Filter Crystals (14)
For existing K2 and KSB2 combinations.
15.00
and you've got way more than enough matched crystals for your single rig. I
certainly wouldn't reveal this top-secret secret if a whole bunch of folks
were planning to build the radio, but for just one or a few, now that the
initial building fever has pretty much come and gone, I doubt that Elecraft
would even notice the dent in their matched-crystal stock. And I certainly
wouldn't expect you to tell them you're not planning to use the crystals in
a non-Elecraft product. Simply order the item. And if you're like many
homebrewers, you probably already have an Elecraft K2 in your station
lineup, as I do, and maybe you're even considering doing a K2 mod using the
crystals.
Of course, it's not that hard to match crystals, but you do need quite a
bunch of them in order to have a good chance of getting a matched set from
the bunch. I think one previous post by Jim mentioned a minimum of 20
crystals needed to hopefully find a matched set. Jim's webpage has an
excellent homebrew crystal-matching test fixture you can build.
4) If you have any toroid-winding experience, you can wind bi- or tri-filar
windings with one color wire for all windings; you just have to use an
ohmmeter to determine which ends are which, and put a little piece of tape
on them identifying the various ends, and be extra careful to make sure
you're wiring the correct ends. Of course it's much easier if you have two
or three-color wires. Dan's Small Parts sells such wire, or you can buy his
passive doublebalanced mixer kit which also has the wire included, and just
use the wire. He supplies multi-colored wire for that. Or you could build
the mixer since it's about the same as used in the 2n2-40 mixers.
(I have a lot of homebrewing experience, I just have not actually built any
of Jim's excellent radio projects yet.)
Steve AA7U
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
VE3GAM Al McRorie
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 8:16 PM
To: 2n2-40 Yahoo Group
Subject: [2n2-40] re: newbiw questions
I am interested in looking at building the 2n2-40+ and have rounded up a
parts
list from the schematics on the yahoo group site and from Mac's af4ps
site, but
before I proceed, I would like to find out about a few things:
for the 2n2-40+
1) is there a board layout for it? is there a preferred build order for
each of the
sub-circuits? Larry K3PEG has a nice layout on the yahoo site in his
extreme
manhattan construction and the rig could be built on modules rather
than on
one board. Not sure which route to take.
2) what is the availability of parts for the 2n2-40+? it looks like most
parts are
available from Mouser with some others from other suppliers.
3) in the yahoo group site, they talk about getting matched crystals, how
hard is
it to match crystals for the project if none are avilable?
4) bifilar/trifilar windings - I think I have this figured out and would
know what to
do to wind them and I did find that you should use #28 or #30 wire for
them
(from yahoo group archives), preferably color coded for the bifilar
and trifilar
windings. is there anything else that I should know before starting?
when I have more questions, I will post them here...on to collecting the
parts...
and in the meantime working on a simpler manhattan project just to get my
feet
wet.
al ve3gam
SPONSORED LINKS Craft hobby Hobby and craft supply Ham radio
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
As I wait for my parts to arrive, I have been looking at the EM
diagrams that K3PEG created, and have been looking specifically at the
VFO. I want to lay out my schematic and pad setup for my rig's VFO, the
2n2-40+. I have designed the layout for the Rx/Tx Driver and will
build this circuit first. Then on to the VFO.
Am I correct in concluding that to add the adjustable span RIT circuit,
you do NOT delete or change any of the circuitry of the VFO on the
previous pages of schematics, all you are doing is adding on to the
circuit and then tapping into the VFO at the specified spots? Sure
looks like it to me.
al ve3gam
|
3317|3316|2005-08-28 17:50:26|Lee Mairs|Re: 2n2-40+: Adjustable Span RIT|That's the way it is! The RIT just adds some more voltage that is switched
out when you start hitting the key.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
----- Original Message -----
From: "ve3gam" <ve3gam@rogers.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 5:41 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2n2-40+: Adjustable Span RIT
> As I wait for my parts to arrive, I have been looking at the EM
> diagrams that K3PEG created, and have been looking specifically at the
> VFO. I want to lay out my schematic and pad setup for my rig's VFO, the
> 2n2-40+. I have designed the layout for the Rx/Tx Driver and will
> build this circuit first. Then on to the VFO.
>
> Am I correct in concluding that to add the adjustable span RIT circuit,
> you do NOT delete or change any of the circuitry of the VFO on the
> previous pages of schematics, all you are doing is adding on to the
> circuit and then tapping into the VFO at the specified spots? Sure
> looks like it to me.
>
> al ve3gam
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
I am having lots of troubles getting my 2N2-40+ to work and I hope
someone can help.
I just have the receiver built so there are no transmitter parts to
complicate things.
I have checked the DC voltages and they all seem to be within the
ballpark
The 1K rf gain pot5 is bypassed temporarily.
I built the local oscillator from the 2n2-40 to use as a signal
source and am using a 7040 crystal in it.
I have about a 6 inch wire on the antenna input to the rcvr and I
wrap the wire
from the oscillator around the ant wire and am getting about 215 mv
to the rcvr. I need a high voltage input in order to get measurable
voltages after the first inductor, L1.
The following signal voltages are made with an oscilliscope and they
are p-p measurments.
After L1 I get a siganl that just widens the horizontal line on my
scope
The collector of Q4 has about 60 mv. Q4 gets fairly hot in a couple
of minutes so
I assume it's oscillating, but I'm not enough of a technician to
know what to do.
The VFO input to the mixer is about .6 v
Output of the mixer at point C is 20 mv
Top of R38 is 20mv
After the last filter crystal it's about 15 mv
At the collector of Q7 it's 15+ mv
Between T8 and C26 it's 60 mv
At the input to R26 it's a scant 15 mv
Input from the local oscillator is about 1 v
I don't know if I've given you enough information or not, but I hope
someone can
point me in the right direction.
Thanks for any help.
Ron
|
3319|3318|2005-09-02 19:59:57|Jim Kortge|Re: Help with 2n2-40+|Hi Ron, sorry to hear that your 2N2/40+ isn't working
correctly. We'll get it going!!
Ron White wrote:
> I am having lots of troubles getting my 2N2-40+ to work and I hope
> someone can help.
>
> I just have the receiver built so there are no transmitter parts to
> complicate things.
>
> I have checked the DC voltages and they all seem to be within the
> ballpark
OK....that's a good start Ron.
I've got all of the values in case you have a question about
any of them.
>
> The 1K rf gain pot5 is bypassed temporarily.
What does that mean? That pot is used as a voltage divider
on the incoming signal. To me, "bypassing" means shorting
the top to the bottom, in which case, all of the signal coming
into Port A gets grounded. You don't want that.
I'm assuming that since none of the transmit low pass filter
elements are in place that you are using Port A as the
Rx signal input point.
>
> I built the local oscillator from the 2n2-40 to use as a signal
> source and am using a 7040 crystal in it.
> I have about a 6 inch wire on the antenna input to the rcvr and I
> wrap the wire
> from the oscillator around the ant wire and am getting about 215 mv
> to the rcvr. I need a high voltage input in order to get measurable
> voltages after the first inductor, L1.
215 mv is lots of signal.
>
> The following signal voltages are made with an oscilliscope and they
> are p-p measurments.
>
> After L1 I get a siganl that just widens the horizontal line on my
> scope
Do you mean L11? That's the first inductor in the Rx after the
LP filter elements in the Tx strip. Can you see any signal
peaking as TC9 is adjusted? There should be two peaks; they
are broad, but none-the-less, peaks.
>
> The collector of Q4 has about 60 mv. Q4 gets fairly hot in a couple
> of minutes so
> I assume it's oscillating, but I'm not enough of a technician to
> know what to do.
Well it may not be oscillating. It gets how because there is
about 30 ma. of collector current flowing in that RF amp to keep
it linear with large signals. I get about 60 mv p-p signal out
of it but with 12 mv p-p on Port A, and all of the front-end tuned
circuits peaked. Can you peak both of the T1 and T2 based bandpass
filters in your rig? There should be two peaks on each as the respective
TC1 and TC2 trimmers are rotated through 360 degrees. Without any
signal driving Port A, do you still see any signal coming out of
C15 on the output of the RF Amp? If not, then that stage isn't
oscillating. If you do, it is and you need to reverse the
leads on the 1-turn input/emitter link.
>
> The VFO input to the mixer is about .6 v
That's about half of what should be there. More like 1.2 volts
p-p is what you need. I'm guessing you need to fiddle with
C12 to get the output of the VFO higher. The Rx will work
with that level, but you'll lose some sensitivity.
>
> Output of the mixer at point C is 20 mv
OK...again maybe a few mv low, but close enough. The
waveform should be a funky composite critter composed
of VFO, input signal, and numerous odd harmonics.
>
> Top of R38 is 20mv
Should be more like 160 mv p-p there, also a composite
signal waveform.
>
> After the last filter crystal it's about 15 mv
I have 28 mv p-p there. Not composite anymore, but a nice
single frequency sine wave.
>
> At the collector of Q7 it's 15+ mv
On mine, I have 2.8 volts p-p with noticeable gain
compressing.
>
> Between T8 and C26 it's 60 mv
1.4 volts p-p with noticeable gain compression also.
>
> At the input to R26 it's a scant 15 mv
I'm getting 280 mv p-p of audio at the top of C27.
I don't have numbers past that point since the signal
level is so high the audio amplifier will go into
overload just cracking the volume control (pot3)
open.
>
> Input from the local oscillator is about 1 v
About right, I'm seeing 1.2 volts p-p.
>
> I don't know if I've given you enough information or not, but I hope
> someone can
> point me in the right direction.
Mixer amp and IF amp don't seem to be providing much gain
at all. Also, make sure that the input circuitry all tunes
properly.
>
> Thanks for any help.
Poke around a bit more and make sure it is built correctly,
especially those two stages mentioned above.
Let us know what you find,
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
The Source (previously a Radio Shack store) here has a package
with 3 rolls of magnet wire, one roll #22, one roll #26 and the
other #30 wire. My question is, can the wire sizes be mixed in
winding the toroids or should they all be the same size? If they
need to be the same size, I will order the DB mixer wire kit from
Dan's; if not, I will get this package locally.
al ve3gam
|
3321|3321|2005-09-25 02:35:11|peter995921|Latest version ?|Earlier this year I found an online manual for a Tuna Tin II and
built one for 40m. I was really chuffed to make a 400 mile contact
from England to Germany for my first QSO. Looking round on the net
I got interested in the 2N2-40 and have downloaded the following
files :-
Schematics: 2N240+AA.SCH BA.SCH CA.SCH DA.SCH dated 02012002
(K8IQY)
Layout: EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4 ver 45 dated April 27, 2005
(K3PEG)
Pads: EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4_pad_locations.pdf ver 45 dated May 1, 2005
Parts: Individual parts List by Section - Flying Pigs Group Buy
(no date on my printout.)
My compliments to Larry on a really excellent parts layout diagram
and pad layout, and to Jim for his clear schematics.
Given that these are the files that I have, is there any updates
or gotcha that I should be aware of?
Meanwhile I am looking forward to the build instructions ...
73s
Pete
G3YJE
|
3322|3321|2005-09-25 08:02:11|Bob Miller|Re: Latest version ?|Pete,
Those are the resourses I used to build mine and I don't remember anything that you need to look out for. I suggest you build each section and test as you go along. The 2n2-40+ has been build by many people so you can rest asured that it is a good workable design. I have some pictures on my website, of my build, at
http://www.wb6kwt.com Good luck with your build.
Bob
WB6KWT
peter995921 <
peter.merriman@btopenworld.com> wrote:
Earlier this year I found an online manual for a Tuna Tin II and
built one for 40m. I was really chuffed to make a 400 mile contact
from England to Germany for my first QSO. Looking round on the net
I got interested in the 2N2-40 and have downloaded the following
files :-
Schematics: 2N240+AA.SCH BA.SCH CA.SCH DA.SCH dated 02012002
(K8IQY)
Layout: EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4 ver 45 dated April 27, 2005
(K3PEG)
Pads: EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4_pad_locations.pdf ver 45 dated May 1, 2005
Parts: Individual parts List by Section - Flying Pigs Group Buy
(no date on my printout.)
My compliments to Larry on a really excellent parts layout diagram
and pad layout, and to Jim for his clear schematics.
Given that these are the files that I have, is there any updates
or gotcha that I should be aware of?
Meanwhile I am looking forward to the build instructions ...
73s
Pete
G3YJE
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I am also building one of these rigs, the Flying Pigs site has the latest
schematics and parts list for the 2n2-40+, the updated version of the rig.
I used their list for ordering parts for the rig. good luck with the build,
al ve3gam
----- Original Message -----
From: peter995921
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2005 2:34 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Latest version ?
Earlier this year I found an online manual for a Tuna Tin II and
built one for 40m. I was really chuffed to make a 400 mile contact
from England to Germany for my first QSO. Looking round on the net
I got interested in the 2N2-40 and have downloaded the following
files :-
Schematics: 2N240+AA.SCH BA.SCH CA.SCH DA.SCH dated 02012002
(K8IQY)
Layout: EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4 ver 45 dated April 27, 2005
(K3PEG)
Pads: EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4_pad_locations.pdf ver 45 dated May 1, 2005
Parts: Individual parts List by Section - Flying Pigs Group Buy
(no date on my printout.)
My compliments to Larry on a really excellent parts layout diagram
and pad layout, and to Jim for his clear schematics.
Given that these are the files that I have, is there any updates
or gotcha that I should be aware of?
Meanwhile I am looking forward to the build instructions ...
73s
Pete
G3YJE
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Where on the Yahoo web site
(
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/files/) did you find all of
these please? I can only find one of them. I'd like the latest info
to start from. Also, how can I find out about the Flying Pigs Group Buy?
Thanks and 73
Henry WA0GOZ
> Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 06:34:33 -0000
> From: "peter995921" <peter.merriman@btopenworld.com>
> Subject: Latest version ?
>
> Earlier this year I found an online manual for a Tuna Tin II and
> built one for 40m. I was really chuffed to make a 400 mile contact
> from England to Germany for my first QSO. Looking round on the net
> I got interested in the 2N2-40 and have downloaded the following
> files :-
>
> Schematics: 2N240+AA.SCH BA.SCH CA.SCH DA.SCH dated 02012002
> (K8IQY)
>
> Layout: EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4 ver 45 dated April 27, 2005
> (K3PEG)
>
> Pads: EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4_pad_locations.pdf ver 45 dated May 1, 2005
>
> Parts: Individual parts List by Section - Flying Pigs Group Buy
> (no date on my printout.)
>
> My compliments to Larry on a really excellent parts layout diagram
> and pad layout, and to Jim for his clear schematics.
>
> Given that these are the files that I have, is there any updates
> or gotcha that I should be aware of?
>
> Meanwhile I am looking forward to the build instructions ...
>
> 73s
> Pete
> G3YJE
The FP group buy & build of the 2n2-40 was attributed to Mac Steinmeyer,
AF4PS <
macnohere@fpqrp.com> a famous QRP adventurer and pioneer who may, or
may not, exist. It took place several years ago and when you contact Mac
about considering doing it again he will begin stammering and then run off
into the swamps from which he may, or may not, return someday. Seriously,
Mac is a great guy and has always been most helpful anytime I've contacted
him. You can find parts lists and sources here:
<
http://www.qsl.net/af4ps/2n2-40.html>
Best of luck Henry! I still keep dreaming of starting into a 2n2-40+, but
never wake up to actually do it. HI. Someday...
72/73
Kip Williams
W6KIP
San Diego CA
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Henry
> Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2005 8:54 AM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Latest version ?
>
> Where on the Yahoo web site
> (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2n2-40/files/) did you find
> all of these please? I can only find one of them. I'd like
> the latest info to start from. Also, how can I find out
> about the Flying Pigs Group Buy?
>
> Thanks and 73
>
> Henry WA0GOZ
>
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Bob Miller
wrote:
> Pete,
>
> Those are the resourses I used to build mine and I don't remember
anything that you need to look out for. I suggest you build each
section and test as you go along. The 2n2-40+ has been build by many
people so you can rest asured that it is a good workable design. I
have some pictures on my website, of my build, at
http://www.wb6kwt.com
>
> Good luck with your build.
>
> Bob
> WB6KWT
>
Great pictures Bob, very interesting web site.
I am trying to figure out if I can use my
Dremel to make the pads. Meanwhile I am
collecting bits.
Pete
G3YoungJollyEngineerIn trying to get into photos section, I get this error, would someone
please investigate and correct?
Al ve3gam
|
3328|3327|2005-09-29 14:02:03|Jim Kortge|Re: group error check|ve3gam wrote:
> In trying to get into photos section, I get this error, would someone
> please investigate and correct?
>
> Al ve3gam
I was just there and everything seems to be working correctly.
However, if you are not signed in, you can't see the photo
nor files on the site.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
>
>
> ve3gam wrote:
> > In trying to get into photos section, I get this error, would
someone
> > please investigate and correct?
> >
> > Al ve3gam
>
> I was just there and everything seems to be working correctly.
> However, if you are not signed in, you can't see the photo
> nor files on the site.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
still get the error: says ERROR, on next line: GROUP_CHECK, on next
line: gpg16.bc.scd.yahoo.com:GROUP_CHECK.
now I was in that area trying to upload photo of my rig and got this
error during that, I don't think the picture upload finished, unable
to get in since, I am on the Yahoo group as I send this message so I
am logged in. perhaps there is a cookie on my machine I can delete
that is affecting this, not sure.
no problem seeing photos area on the RockMite Yahho group, so that
one works.
AlI just tried to access the Photos section and I get
the same Error message. Something's wrong!
Bob Parks
K6AEC
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 16:30:46 -0000
> From: "ve3gam" <ve3gam@rogers.com>
> Subject: group error check
>
> In trying to get into photos section, I get this
> error, would someone
> please investigate and correct?
>
> Al ve3gam
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.comI logged in as my Yahoo user for the group. I went to the photo
section...
Error
GROUP_CHECK
gpg10.bc.scd.yahoo.com:GROUP_CHECK
That's all I get too.
|
3332|3331|2005-09-30 13:27:04|Richard Brummer, K2JQ|Re: Photos|just tried it -- same here
Dick K2JQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "kb9bvn" <kb9bvn@arrl.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 12:17 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Photos
> That's all I get too.
Gang,
I think I found the problem and solved it. Photos had been
added to the Photos section, putting us over the 30 Meg
limit, so that section was locked by Yahoo. I removed a
few files and now it is at 29.99 Meg, so I think it should
be working again, but nobody add any more photos to that
section. There is still about 10 Meg in the Files directory,
so put new stuff there.
Guess I need to get all the info off of this Yahoo site and
on to my web site, where I have several Gbytes of storage
available.
72 and let me know if it is working again,
Jim, K8IQY
|
3334|3333|2005-09-30 19:36:55|ve3gam|Re: Photo Album Fixed?|--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "k8iqy"
wrote:
> Gang,
>
> I think I found the problem and solved it. Photos had been
> added to the Photos section, putting us over the 30 Meg
> limit, so that section was locked by Yahoo. I removed a
> few files and now it is at 29.99 Meg, so I think it should
> be working again, but nobody add any more photos to that
> section. There is still about 10 Meg in the Files directory,
> so put new stuff there.
>
> Guess I need to get all the info off of this Yahoo site and
> on to my web site, where I have several Gbytes of storage
> available.
>
> 72 and let me know if it is working again,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Working now for me Jim, thanks. It was probably the pic I added into
the VE3GAM photos folder that did it.
I am progressing with the 2n2-40+, Rx/Tx Driver is built, the VFO is
built except for the toroids and the 20K pot. Getting there...taking
my time with it. Once I get to the stage where I need the crystals,
I will contact you.
AlI'm about to start building a 2N2-30, and looking at the
bill of materials, I'm somewhat overwhelmed at sourcing
all the parts.
There are 96 items listed, and it would take forever to
souce them all at, say, Mouser.
If anyone has put together a parts list with Mouser
(or any other supplier) cross-referenced with the
supplier's part numbers, it would be an enormous
help if you could share the list.
If not, I'll just need to bite the bullet and do it.
And, by the way, has anyone ever added anything
like the Steve Weber, KD1JV "melt solder" frequency
counter to the project?
Tnx in advance es
vy 73 de john
|
3336|3335|2005-10-16 17:38:03|ve3gam|Re: [2N2-30] Starting to Build|in compiling the list of parts and parts source order numbers for the
2n2-40+, I used the list from the Flying Pigs group build on AF4PS's
site
http://www.qsl.net/af4ps/2n2-40.html check out the link listed under the heading EXCEL spreadsheet, no it
is not an excel worksheet, rather it is a PDF file. this list shows
the parts and the related parts order numbers from Mouser, etc and
will be quite handy in your order list. I would think that quite a
few parts would be duplicates between the 2 rigs.
I am in the process of building the 2n2-40+ and most parts I got
either locally or from Mouser, using the parts order numbers from the
af4ps site. once I verified the part numbers, I sent my order off to
them and it was filled within 10 days, direct to me by mail.
I have the VFO amost built and hope to get the rig built over the
winter, good luck
al ve3gam
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "John Westerlage" wrote:
>
> I'm about to start building a 2N2-30, and looking at the
> bill of materials, I'm somewhat overwhelmed at sourcing
> all the parts.
>
> There are 96 items listed, and it would take forever to
> souce them all at, say, Mouser.
>
> If anyone has put together a parts list with Mouser
> (or any other supplier) cross-referenced with the
> supplier's part numbers, it would be an enormous
> help if you could share the list.
>
> If not, I'll just need to bite the bullet and do it.
>
> And, by the way, has anyone ever added anything
> like the Steve Weber, KD1JV "melt solder" frequency
> counter to the project?
>
> Tnx in advance es
> vy 73 de john
>
John,
Can't help with the parts list but I put a Weber
counter info my 2n2-20, others have done it too. You
will have to do a couple of mods to the counter to
reduce the digital noise that gets into the
transceiver but it isn't hard to do and only takes a
couple of caps. Look at the Yahoo group for the 2n2-40
and you should find the info posted by K8IQY.
Bob
WB6KWT
--- John Westerlage <
n5dwi@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I'm about to start building a 2N2-30, and looking at
> the
> bill of materials, I'm somewhat overwhelmed at
> sourcing
> all the parts.
>
> There are 96 items listed, and it would take forever
> to
> souce them all at, say, Mouser.
>
> If anyone has put together a parts list with Mouser
> (or any other supplier) cross-referenced with the
> supplier's part numbers, it would be an enormous
> help if you could share the list.
>
> If not, I'll just need to bite the bullet and do it.
>
> And, by the way, has anyone ever added anything
> like the Steve Weber, KD1JV "melt solder" frequency
> counter to the project?
>
> Tnx in advance es
> vy 73 de john
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.comJohn,
Call Mouser and tell them you need to get parts for a project. In the past I
have been able to submit my parts list to them and they come back to me with a
nice quote and all the Mouser part numbers.
It's been a year or two since I last did that...it wouldn't hurt to ask.
73 de KB9BVN
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Westerlage" <n5dwi@sbcglobal.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 4:05 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] [2N2-30] Starting to Build
> I'm about to start building a 2N2-30, and looking at the
> bill of materials, I'm somewhat overwhelmed at sourcing
> all the parts.
>
> There are 96 items listed, and it would take forever to
> souce them all at, say, Mouser.
>
> If anyone has put together a parts list with Mouser
> (or any other supplier) cross-referenced with the
> supplier's part numbers, it would be an enormous
> help if you could share the list.
>
> If not, I'll just need to bite the bullet and do it.
>
> And, by the way, has anyone ever added anything
> like the Steve Weber, KD1JV "melt solder" frequency
> counter to the project?
>
> Tnx in advance es
> vy 73 de john
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Brian Murrey wrote:
> John,
>
> Call Mouser and tell them you need to get parts for a project. In the past I
> have been able to submit my parts list to them and they come back to me with a
> nice quote and all the Mouser part numbers.
>
> It's been a year or two since I last did that...it wouldn't hurt to ask.
>
> 73 de KB9BVN
John, if you do that, would you publish the list with part numbers and
the quote for the rest of us?
Thanks.
Jim KJ0C
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.1/136 - Release Date: 10/15/2005
If you are a registered user, you can use the Project
Manager tab, import the bill of materials from Excel
or type it in manually, then have it go to a project
or to your current order. It will price it all out for
you. You can save the project, work on it over time,
then submit it when ready.
Eric
KE6US
www.ke6us.com
--- Jim Crooke <
crooke@crooke.us> wrote:
>
>
> Brian Murrey wrote:
> > John,
> >
> > Call Mouser and tell them you need to get parts
> for a project. In the past I
> > have been able to submit my parts list to them and
> they come back to me with a
> > nice quote and all the Mouser part numbers.
> >
> > It's been a year or two since I last did that...it
> wouldn't hurt to ask.
> >
> > 73 de KB9BVN
>
> John, if you do that, would you publish the list
> with part numbers and
> the quote for the rest of us?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim KJ0C
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.1/136 -
> Release Date: 10/15/2005
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> --------------------~-->
> Get fast access to your favorite Yahoo! Groups. Make
> Yahoo! your home page
>
http://us.click.yahoo.com/dpRU5A/wUILAA/yQLSAA/ELTolB/TM >
--------------------------------------------------------------------~->
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/That's just too cool!
Thanks for the tip.
Jim KJ0C
EricJ wrote:
> If you are a registered user, you can use the Project
> Manager tab, import the bill of materials from Excel
> or type it in manually, then have it go to a project
> or to your current order. It will price it all out for
> you. You can save the project, work on it over time,
> then submit it when ready.
>
> Eric
> KE6US
> www.ke6us.com
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.1/136 - Release Date: 10/15/2005
Jim,
The schematic for the Variable Bandwidth Filter shows Rend of 270
ohms, the filter impedance for that type of ladder filter. Given that
I want to try a Cohn Min-Loss filter, what is the output impedance
(Rsource, I think, in the ladder equations)of the preceding 9dBm mixer
stage that resulted in the 270 ohm Rend? Presumably, this would be
the the impedance that I need to match to the filter. The filter
input & output impedance of the Min-Loss is going to be on the order
of 150 to 180 ohms depending on which crystals, capacitors and how
many poles, 3 or 4 that I use.
Based on the 15:2 turns ratio of transformer T7 feeding the next
stage, I have worked out the input impedance to that stage to be 4.8
ohms, and a 12:2 turns ratio should work for that (180 to 4.8 ohms) on
a T37-43. I presume that I would use a broadband transformer as well,
taking its output directly from the collector of Q5, and not use the
.22 uF coupling capacitor, rather relying on the input end capacitor
of the Min-Loss for coupling.
"Experimental Methods" doesn't attempt to quantify the output
impedance of a common base amplifier in the small signal analysis,
other than assuming it is infinite. The only other load component I
see is the collector RF choke, about 3.1k at 4.9MHz in parallel with
the filter impedance.
Thanks in advance,
Ted KX4OM
|
3343|3335|2005-10-17 10:22:24|N5DWI (ex-K5HOQ)|Re: [2N2-30] Starting to Build|Thanks much for all the ideas, folks, both those on- and off-list!
I've download the Flying Pigs 2N2-40+ Parts list, and it does have
around half of the parts listed -- a big time saver! I'll be working
on the rest of the parts during the week.
I've followed the suggestion of registering with Mouser and looked
at the project manager and bill of materials importer. A pair of
truly awesome features for us homebrewers!
As soon as I've gotten it all together, I'll make it available for anyone
interested, and announce it here.
And I did get some encouraging notes about adding the freq. meter.
Again thanks for all the help!
vy 73 de john
|
3344|3344|2005-10-20 19:24:06|Kip Williams W6KIP|2n2-40+ Parts Ready|Okay - now all I need is the magnet wire and wires for the interconnects!
Wish me luck everybody! I suspect you'll all be hearing from me as I go
through this project! HI! Glad the group is here to help convince me I can
do this thing.
72/73
Kip Williams
W6KIP
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3345|3344|2005-10-20 19:28:58|Mark Schoonover|Re: 2n2-40+ Parts Ready|Kip Williams W6KIP wrote:
> Okay - now all I need is the magnet wire and wires for the
> interconnects! Wish me luck everybody! I suspect you'll all be
> hearing from me as I go through this project! HI! Glad the group is
> here to help convince me I can do this thing.
>
> 72/73
> Kip Williams
> W6KIP
>
Kip,
Where have you been?? :) Once my QRO amp is done for the mobile,
I'll be back building my 2n2 that I started a very long time ago...
72
Mark
KA6WKE
> Kip,
>
> Where have you been?? :) Once my QRO amp is done for
> the mobile, I'll be back building my 2n2 that I started a
> very long time ago...
>
> 72
>
> Mark
> KA6WKE
>
>
Hey Mark! Good to hear from you. Last time we talked you were training for
the Rock'n'Roll Marathon. You'd better get your amp finished and get back to
work on the 2n2 - I'm going to NEED you!! HI
72
Kip
W6KIP
Kip Williams W6KIP
w6kip@kipwilliams.com> tapped at Thursday,
October 20, 2005 7:49 PM:
>> Kip,
>>
>> Where have you been?? :) Once my QRO amp is done for
>> the mobile, I'll be back building my 2n2 that I started a very long
>> time ago...
>>
>> 72
>>
>> Mark
>> KA6WKE
>>
>>
> Hey Mark! Good to hear from you. Last time we talked you were
> training for
> the Rock'n'Roll Marathon. You'd better get your amp finished and get
> back to
> work on the 2n2 - I'm going to NEED you!! HI
>
> 72
> Kip
> W6KIP
>
Well, no I'm training for Rock N Roll Arizona on Jan 15th...
I finished all the major assembly of the amp tonight. Now, it's almost ready
for testing and burn in...
72
Mark
KA6WKEGang,
I have one set of 5 matched crystals for a 2N2/40 rig. These were from a partial kit
assembled a couple of years ago, however I used the kit for my 2N2/30 rig. The crystals are
surplus to my needs, as I also have a 2N2/40. If you are in need, please email me directly.
I just have one set, so serious builders only please. Thanks.
72
Mike Schettler WA6MER
|
3349|3349|2005-11-01 07:24:39|kilocycles|Article on Testing in QRPp|Hi folks,
I've started my build of the 2N2-40+, and I just finished putting the
VFO together. I saw one of the posts referring to an article that was
posted on QRPp regarding testing (the 2N2-40, I think). I checked the
QRPp archives and didn't get a hit. Can someone point me to it?
Im wondering if I neet to put a load on the VFO output to test it with
my scope to get the proper signal and voltage levels??
Tnx es 72,
Ted KX4OM
|
3350|3350|2005-12-18 16:18:45|Kip Williams W6KIP|Help With Documentation|I've gotten a copy of the Winter 1998 QRPp Journal devoted to the 2n2/40. I
was reading through it and realized I'm missing pages 43-46. I emailed Paul,
NA5N, but imagine he's got plenty going on around the holidays. I'd
appreciate anybody who cared to scan and email or mail these 4 pages to
complete my book. If you'd rather mail please let me know and I'll send an
SASE.
Thanks for your help.
72
Kip W6KIP
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3351|3350|2005-12-18 18:37:47|Ron White|Re: Help With Documentation|Kip,
I'll be glad to copy and send you the 4 pages you're missing in the 2n2-40
article.
Is your address ok in QRP? No need to send me an envelope.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kip Williams W6KIP" <w6kip@kipwilliams.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2005 3:17 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Help With Documentation
> I've gotten a copy of the Winter 1998 QRPp Journal devoted to the 2n2/40.
> I
> was reading through it and realized I'm missing pages 43-46. I emailed
> Paul,
> NA5N, but imagine he's got plenty going on around the holidays. I'd
> appreciate anybody who cared to scan and email or mail these 4 pages to
> complete my book. If you'd rather mail please let me know and I'll send an
> SASE.
> Thanks for your help.
> 72
> Kip W6KIP
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Kip,
I meant to say QRZ. Senior moment!
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kip Williams W6KIP" <w6kip@kipwilliams.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2005 3:17 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Help With Documentation
> I've gotten a copy of the Winter 1998 QRPp Journal devoted to the 2n2/40.
> I
> was reading through it and realized I'm missing pages 43-46. I emailed
> Paul,
> NA5N, but imagine he's got plenty going on around the holidays. I'd
> appreciate anybody who cared to scan and email or mail these 4 pages to
> complete my book. If you'd rather mail please let me know and I'll send an
> SASE.
> Thanks for your help.
> 72
> Kip W6KIP
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Somewhere I ran across I guess a version of manhattan method that the
person used a special drill to cut away the copper to form round pads
on the board.
My idea is to use two boards. I would cut out pads from one double
sided board with the cutout being done on about a 45 degree slope so
that the bottom of the pad can be soldered down to the base board, not
glued.
This way, there would be NO 'unglued' pads as the soldered on pads
could with stand more heating during soldering if necessary.
Other than ocassional solder bridges, any reason not to use this method?
Ed Culbertson/ke7feg
|
3354|3353|2006-01-04 11:57:17|Jim Kortge|Re: Manhattan method|ke7feg wrote:
> Somewhere I ran across I guess a version of manhattan method that the
> person used a special drill to cut away the copper to form round pads
> on the board.
Yes, that was a limited time offer from the NJ QRP group for a small
diamond core drill that could be used in a drill press or dremel
tool for making pads. Works very well when one wants to use
surface mount components in a Manhattan-style environment.
I used that tool for the prototype Islander Amplifier project that
was kitted by NJ QRP. It's probably still on their web site somewhere.
>
> My idea is to use two boards. I would cut out pads from one double
> sided board with the cutout being done on about a 45 degree slope so
> that the bottom of the pad can be soldered down to the base board, not
> glued.
>
> This way, there would be NO 'unglued' pads as the soldered on pads
> could with stand more heating during soldering if necessary.
Well in my humble opinion, its a lot of extra work, but probably
will work fine. I've never had any problems with pads coming up
when glued if the single sided pad and the underlying substrate are
very clean, and the surfaces conditioned using a "Scotch Brite"
scrubber. With that arrangement, you have to remove the pads with
a pair of side cutters. The key is to get the surfaces clean of
contaminants, which includes finger grease. If the pads are coming
off during soldering, you're on the pad far to long with the soldering
iron. A larger iron (wattage) or bigger tip is needed with the temp
set to around 320 to 350 degrees C.
>
> Other than ocassional solder bridges, any reason not to use this method?
Nope...try it and see how it works.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I am making or made the bit. Used a 1/4 inch 'speed
bore' bit and cut it off at the hole, then ground it
to shape with a moto tool.
I have not had a board to try on yet, but maybe
tomorrow. Will let the list know how it works. I need
to redo a LM317T PS. I didn't know about the chop and
glue 'manhattan' way till I read about it recently. I
had just bought predrilled either pre drilled board or
copper sided predrilled boards from RS.
You guys, all lists are full of it.....information
that is and boy the newbie in me is really enjoying
it. Now to learn the language, the dit dah's that is.
The general license should be relatively a breeze..
former electronic test tech for Honeywell before it
became a bunch of Bull, Bull France that is. HI HI.
Now the extra may take some serious study.
> Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2006 11:56:23 -0500
> From: Jim Kortge <jokortge@prodigy.net>
> Subject: Re: Manhattan method
>
>
>
> ke7feg wrote:
> > Somewhere I ran across I guess a version of
> manhattan method that the
> > person used a special drill to cut away the copper
> to form round pads
> > on the board.
>
> Yes, that was a limited time offer from the NJ QRP
> group for a small
> diamond core drill that could be used in a drill
> press or dremel
> tool for making pads. Works very well when one
> wants to use
> surface mount components in a Manhattan-style
> environment.
>
> I used that tool for the prototype Islander
> Amplifier project that
> was kitted by NJ QRP. It's probably still on their
> web site somewhere.
>
> >
> > My idea is to use two boards. I would cut out pads
> from one double
> > sided board with the cutout being done on about a
> 45 degree slope so
> > that the bottom of the pad can be soldered down to
> the base board, not
> > glued.
> >
> > This way, there would be NO 'unglued' pads as the
> soldered on pads
> > could with stand more heating during soldering if
> necessary.
>
> Well in my humble opinion, its a lot of extra work,
> but probably
> will work fine. I've never had any problems with
> pads coming up
> when glued if the single sided pad and the
> underlying substrate are
> very clean, and the surfaces conditioned using a
> "Scotch Brite"
> scrubber. With that arrangement, you have to remove
> the pads with
> a pair of side cutters. The key is to get the
> surfaces clean of
> contaminants, which includes finger grease. If the
> pads are coming
> off during soldering, you're on the pad far to long
> with the soldering
> iron. A larger iron (wattage) or bigger tip is
> needed with the temp
> set to around 320 to 350 degrees C.
> >
> > Other than ocassional solder bridges, any reason
> not to use this method?
>
> Nope...try it and see how it works.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> 2n2-40-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
Remeber Katrina?
For several days, only amateur radio ops could get out,
and talk to others.
No Morse Code required for Technician class licensee
New hand helds start at about $85 and up for single band transcievers
at many dealers, just fyi.
Long live Knoppix, and Puppy Live Linux cd's.
Complete functional operating systems free if downloaded.
__________________________________________
Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about.
Just $16.99/mo. or less.
dsl.yahoo.com
Checking to see if I can make the list..
72 73
Terry, WA0ITP
|
3357|3357|2006-01-19 13:39:03|subriaus|mpsh10|Hi All
Ive had my 2n2-40 for a while and really liked it a lot so the build-
bug hit me again and I started on the 2n2-20. I have completed the
receiver to specs exect I could�nt find some mpsh10 transistors for the
the rx-if amp Q8 and Q9 so I used some BF199 , which is a medium rf
transistor.
Iفm getting very low sensitivity for the receiver and suspecting the
BF199 is not up to the job, so does anyone know of a substitute for
the mpsh10 as it�s kind of hard to find in Europe ?.
Also a question on the RF AMP transformer T1. The 1 turn winding ,
how should I wind that ? I guess I could get self-osc if winding it in
the wrong way.
Grateful for some some inputs ( maybe Jim ? )
73/Frank/SM5QU
|
3358|3357|2006-01-19 22:30:54|Jim Kortge|Re: mpsh10|Frank/SM5QU wrote:
> Hi All
Greetings Frank,
Nice to have email from you.
>
> Ive had my 2n2-40 for a while and really liked it a lot so the build-
> bug hit me again and I started on the 2n2-20. I have completed the
> receiver to specs exect I could´nt find some mpsh10 transistors for the
> the rx-if amp Q8 and Q9 so I used some BF199 , which is a medium rf
> transistor.
Close to the same thing, but maybe a bit light in hFE from what I can
find on the internet.
> Iám getting very low sensitivity for the receiver and suspecting the
> BF199 is not up to the job, so does anyone know of a substitute for
> the mpsh10 as it´s kind of hard to find in Europe ?.
Couldn't find anything better than the BF199, except perhaps for
some of the Philips RF transistors in SMT format, like the BFS17
and derivitives. The other two transistors that might work OK are
the PN5179 or MPS version of the same, and the 2N918 or several
of the various flavors of it like the PN918 of MPS918. I don't
know whether any of the latter are any better overall than the
BF199 though. Might take some experimenting.
> Also a question on the RF AMP transformer T1. The 1 turn winding ,
> how should I wind that ? I guess I could get self-osc if winding it in
> the wrong way.
Yes, indeed you will get the mother of all oscillators if the phasing
of that 1-turn winding is incorrect. With it correct, the amplifier
is unconditionally stable at a gain of 12, and with it reversed, the
stage will oscillate like mad. It may be that the sensitivity problem
you are seeing is due to the RF Amplifier not amplifying, but oscillating
instead, thus overloading the whole front-end. Try reversing the leads
of the 1-turn winding and see what happens. If you have an oscilloscope,
the oscillation will be very apparent on the output of the winding is
phased incorrectly.
> Grateful for some some inputs ( maybe Jim ? )
We're here to help Frank. You'll love your 2N2/20 when it is done.
The receiver is very hot, and very tolerant of big signals on the
input, and very sensitive when it is working correctly.
72 and keep us posted on your progress Frank,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Jim
Thanks for Your inputs.
Regarding the mpsh10 .. VE1AWJ was very kind and offered to send me some
so I´ll change the BF199 when I get them.Very nice people in the QRP-world !
> > Also a question on the RF AMP transformer T1. The 1 turn winding ,
> > how should I wind that ? I guess I could get self-osc if winding it in
> > the wrong way.
> Yes, indeed you will get the mother of all oscillators if the phasing
> of that 1-turn winding is incorrect. With it correct, the amplifier
> is unconditionally stable at a gain of 12, and with it reversed, the
> stage will oscillate like mad. It may be that the sensitivity problem
> you are seeing is due to the RF Amplifier not amplifying, but oscillating
> instead, thus overloading the whole front-end. Try reversing the leads
> of the 1-turn winding and see what happens. If you have an oscilloscope,
> the oscillation will be very apparent on the output of the winding is
> phased incorrectly.
Yes I´ll check it with my oscilloscope this weekend.I built the RF-amp according to the Manhattan
layout but was thinking of redoing the layout to avoid to long and tricky leads from T1 to Q1.
> We're here to help Frank. You'll love your 2N2/20 when it is done.
> The receiver is very hot, and very tolerant of big signals on the
> input, and very sensitive when it is working correctly.
>
> 72 and keep us posted on your progress Frank,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Yes I hear that the 2n2/20 is something special.Cant wait to get it working and
check it out.
Thanks Jim for Your help
72/ Frank
I 'googled' the tranny and got this source for the
MPSH10 transistor for the kit.
MPSH10 - NPN RF $0.10 Quantity
As stated, I googled them and have NO connection or
experience with them, use/buy at your own risk.
http://www.vakits.com Ed Culbertson/ke7feg
Remeber Katrina?
For several days, only hams could get out, and talk to others.
No Morse Code required for Technician class licensee
New hand helds start at about $85 and up for single band
transcievers at many dealers, just fyi.
Long live Knoppix, and Puppy Live Linux cd's.
Complete operating systems free if downloaded.
I am running w/o a hard drive on both!!
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.comI've ordered from the company listed below (Nightfire Electronics) and
have had good luck with them. Four or five orders in the last year
without a single issue.
Brian - N1FIY
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, KE7FEG wrote:
>
> I 'googled' the tranny and got this source for the
> MPSH10 transistor for the kit.
>
> MPSH10 - NPN RF $0.10 Quantity
>
> As stated, I googled them and have NO connection or
> experience with them, use/buy at your own risk.
>
>
>
> http://www.vakits.com
>
> Ed Culbertson/ke7feg
Mouser has them for $.17 (Fairchild) and $.26 (Central Semiconductor)
in single-item quantities.
72,
Ted KX4OM
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, KE7FEG wrote:
>
> I 'googled' the tranny and got this source for the
> MPSH10 transistor for the kit.
>
> MPSH10 - NPN RF $0.10 Quantity
>
> As stated, I googled them and have NO connection or
> experience with them, use/buy at your own risk.
>
>
>
> http://www.vakits.com
>
> Ed Culbertson/ke7feg
> Remeber Katrina?
> For several days, only hams could get out, and talk to others.
>
> No Morse Code required for Technician class licensee
> New hand helds start at about $85 and up for single band
> transcievers at many dealers, just fyi.
>
> Long live Knoppix, and Puppy Live Linux cd's.
> Complete operating systems free if downloaded.
> I am running w/o a hard drive on both!!
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
Jim Kortege,
I'm a latecomer to this topic and want to know if gluing the pads to the
board (with the ground copper underneath it) results in a stray capacitance
that has to be compensated in the circuit design.
Please advise,
Howard, N3FEL
- - - - -
I've never had any problems with pads coming up
when glued if the single sided pad and the underlying substrate are
very clean, and the surfaces conditioned using a "Scotch Brite"
scrubber.
|
3364|3353|2006-02-05 12:24:53|jr_dakota|Re: Manhattan method|I'm not Jim but I can give you an answer ...
Yes there is some capacitance, anytime you have two flat pieces of
conductive material seperated by an insulator there will be some
capacitance BUT in the HF range it's more or less so small as to be
irrelevent and can be ignored ... when you start getting into the VHF
range, then it starts to become an issue
JR
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Rubin" wrote:
>
> Jim Kortege,
>
> I'm a latecomer to this topic and want to know if gluing the pads to the
> board (with the ground copper underneath it) results in a stray
capacitance
> that has to be compensated in the circuit design.
>
> Please advise,
> Howard, N3FEL
> - - - - -
>
> I've never had any problems with pads coming up
> when glued if the single sided pad and the underlying substrate are
> very clean, and the surfaces conditioned using a "Scotch Brite"
> scrubber.
>
I measured some pieces of board some time back and figured the
pf/square inch and pf / 0.25 inch diameter pad. This was for a
typical 1/16in thick glass epoxy board and also for some super-thin
flexible board.
pF / in^2 pf / pad
Regular board: 19.2 0.94
Super Thin 226 11.1
The reactance of 1pF is 11k-ohms at 20 meters. So in most cases, it
would be negligible. Contrary examples would be at above HF
frequencies, or at hi-impedance or high voltage points in a circuit.
Oh, and avoid the super thin stuff except for DC supply pads or audio
circuits.
72--Nick, WA5BDU
>
> I'm a latecomer to this topic and want to know if gluing the
> pads to the board (with the ground copper underneath it)
> results in a stray capacitance that has to be compensated in
> the circuit design.
>
> Please advise,
> Howard, N3FEL
> - - - - -
jr_dakota wrote:
> I'm not Jim but I can give you an answer ...
>
> Yes there is some capacitance, anytime you have two flat pieces of
> conductive material seperated by an insulator there will be some
> capacitance BUT in the HF range it's more or less so small as to be
> irrelevent and can be ignored ... when you start getting into the VHF
> range, then it starts to become an issue
>
> JR
I am Jim, and here is more of an answer.
A 1/8 inch diameter pad has a capacitance to ground of about
0.5 pF, so at 30 MHz, this would be an approximate 11K ohms
capacitive reactance in parallel with what ever is soldered
to that node. A 5/32 inch diameter pad has slightly more
capacitance, about 0.7 pF, and a 3/32 X 1/4 inch rectangular
pad from an ADEL nibbling tool has about 0.6 pF. I've
picked some common pad sizes that I use and the capacitances
were measured with an AADE capacitance meter. They are probably
accurate to +/- 0.2 pF. Someone else might like to duplicate
the experiment and see what they get.
As for compensation in the circuit design, in most cases, it
isn't necessary of you are working in the HF range. For VHF,
you would probably want to model these parasitic capacitances,
just to assure that the design is stable.
I hope the info above is sufficient Howard.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Rubin" wrote:
>
>>Jim Kortege,
>>
>>I'm a latecomer to this topic and want to know if gluing the pads to the
>>board (with the ground copper underneath it) results in a stray
>
> capacitance
>
>>that has to be compensated in the circuit design.
>>
>>Please advise,
>>Howard, N3FEL
>>- - - - -
>>
>>I've never had any problems with pads coming up
>>when glued if the single sided pad and the underlying substrate are
>>very clean, and the surfaces conditioned using a "Scotch Brite"
>>scrubber.
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Dear om,
I wish build the 2n2 40 but i have tehe following problem
I do not have the awg copper wire numbers for the inductances and
transformers
Can you help me
Best regards from ON4LEK from brussels 73
|
3368|3367|2006-02-07 18:28:40|Jim Kortge|Re: awg wire section|mike_lek wrote:
> Dear om,
>
> I wish build the 2n2 40 but i have tehe following problem
>
> I do not have the awg copper wire numbers for the inductances and
> transformers
> Can you help me
> Best regards from ON4LEK from brussels 73
Hi Mike,
I thought I answered before, but I'll bet that I read your first email
when I was in Florida and forgot to respond when I got home. The email
service when vacationing wasn't very good.
The wire size isn't critical for any of the inductors or transformers.
For those with a lot of turns, use something like #28 or #30 wire. For
those with fewer turns, #26 will be fine. The main criteria is getting
on the required number of turns with out filling up the core. You always
want about 20% of the core left unwound, so use a wire size that will
fit those requirements. For the bifilar and trifilar windings, #28 or
preferrably, #30 is better. Larger wire sizes will become too stiff
when the two or three strands are twisted together. As far as twisting,
you want 8-10 twists per inch on both the bifilar and trifilar wire
sets. I just wind up a long length of each, wind the required number
of turns on the core, and cut it off. Using different colors for each
wire helps when all of the ends are connected. However, that can still
be done accurately by check each winding with an ohmmeter, and then
putting a dab of colored paint on each winding. You'll figure out
the best way for the materials you have there.
72 and good luck with building your 2N2/40,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
Is this just a 'fudge factor' in case one needs to add windings or does it have something to do with core flux density?
Inquiring minds, etc., etc.
73.......Steve Smith WB6TNL
"Snort Rosin"
-- Jim Kortge <
jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
You always
want about 20% of the core left unwound, so use a wire size that will
fit those requirements.
sigcom@juno.com wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Is this just a 'fudge factor' in case one needs to add windings or does it have something to do with core flux density?
>
> Inquiring minds, etc., etc.
>
> 73.......Steve Smith WB6TNL
> "Snort Rosin"
>
> -- Jim Kortge <jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
>
> You always
> want about 20% of the core left unwound, so use a wire size that will
> fit those requirements.
Hi Steve,
No, that is recommended by the manufacturer. The reason that I've heard
is that is minimizes the capacitive coupling from the beginning and
end turns. I'm not sure that I buy that, but I've always done it
that way. It also does leave some room to add turns, but that looks
so tacky, I'd rather rewind it! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
3371|3371|2006-02-21 17:10:17|smbertuzzo@rogers.com|2N2 40+ Matched Crystal Kit|Hello everyone! I hope someone on the list could help me.
I am interested in purchasing a set of the matched crystals for the
2N2 40+ kit that Jim K8IQY put out.
I am also aware that there were a couple of group buys for parts for
the 2N2 40M rig as well and would consider purchasing the kit of parts
as well. Please send me an email directly.
Thanks in advance
Serge
VA3SB
|
3372|3371|2006-02-22 09:14:57|Kip Williams W6KIP|Re: 2N2 40+ Matched Crystal Kit|Hi Serge. Glad to hear you're planning on the 2N2-40+. I've been getting ready
to do the same for...well, lets not even talk about how long I've been getting
ready to do it. Mike, WA6MER, very kindly sent me a set of matched crystals
when I started assembling parts. Since then I was able to obtain an unbuilt
kit of parts from the FLying Pigs group build. So, I've got the crystals Mike
shared orginally and doubt I'll be using them. Let me know if you still need
them and we can arrange a deal for the same price he charged: FREE.
Best of luck with construction of this radio. Everybody I talk to loves
them and
I hope to be very proud of mine, soon.
72
Kip Williams W6KIP
San Diego, CA
Quoting "
smbertuzzo@rogers.com" <
smbertuzzo@rogers.com>:
> Hello everyone! I hope someone on the list could help me.
>
> I am interested in purchasing a set of the matched crystals for the
> 2N2 40+ kit that Jim K8IQY put out.
> Serge
> VA3SB
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hello everyone! Stayed up late last evening (and got up early this
Sunday morning) to put together the heart of the 2n2 40+ - the VFO.
I do get an output (as seen on my scope) but was curious as to how
much output I should be seeing. I measure the unterminated output at
approx 200mv on my scope. I somehow would have expected this to be
higher. I swapped out C12 (330pf cap) and replaced it with a 270pf
to see the effect. As expected, the output droped to approx 50mv
(both measurements were made with the trim cap TC4 at maximum. I
tried to find the signal on my general coverage receiver but could
not hear it for some reason? I will be trying this again when I get
back from a business trip. Before I proceed I want to be sure that
the VFO is working properly and provides sufficient drive.
By the way, I did do all the dc measurements found on the schematic
and all voltages are correct (within .1 volt or so).
Just curious if anyone has any of their measurements handy that they
can pass along. Assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
in advance.
Regards,
Serge
VA3SB
|
3374|3373|2006-03-01 09:28:35|brianars|Re: 2N2 40 + VFO output level|Serge...
That does sound a little low. I've been -slowly- building a 2N2 40+
for about 6 months now, and I recall measuring higher. A quick look
in the Files section on this group shows a scope plot of the VFO that
Jim took. That shows about 1.2Vp-p from the VFO. This sounds more
like what I got, but I think mine was a little lower.
Brian - N1FIY
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "smbertuzzo@..." wrote:
>
> Hello everyone! Stayed up late last evening (and got up early this
> Sunday morning) to put together the heart of the 2n2 40+ - the VFO.
>
> I do get an output (as seen on my scope) but was curious as to how
> much output I should be seeing. I measure the unterminated output at
> approx 200mv on my scope. I somehow would have expected this to be
> higher. I swapped out C12 (330pf cap) and replaced it with a 270pf
> to see the effect. As expected, the output droped to approx 50mv
> (both measurements were made with the trim cap TC4 at maximum. I
> tried to find the signal on my general coverage receiver but could
> not hear it for some reason? I will be trying this again when I get
> back from a business trip. Before I proceed I want to be sure that
> the VFO is working properly and provides sufficient drive.
>
> By the way, I did do all the dc measurements found on the schematic
> and all voltages are correct (within .1 volt or so).
>
> Just curious if anyone has any of their measurements handy that they
> can pass along. Assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
> in advance.
>
> Regards,
>
> Serge
> VA3SB
>
Thank you for your email Brian. One of the reasons it may be lower
is that I did not use all the correct types of capacitors. The
losses introduced by these may in fact be causing the lower output.
I have ordered the right caps. I should receive the order by the end
of this week. This will work out well as I am on a business trip
until the end of the week. I will replace the caps on the weekend
and make some additional measurements.
I'll let you know how I make out.
Regards,
Serge
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "brianars" wrote:
>
> Serge...
>
> That does sound a little low. I've been -slowly- building a 2N2
40+
> for about 6 months now, and I recall measuring higher. A quick
look
> in the Files section on this group shows a scope plot of the VFO
that
> Jim took. That shows about 1.2Vp-p from the VFO. This sounds more
> like what I got, but I think mine was a little lower.
>
> Brian - N1FIY
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "smbertuzzo@" wrote:
> >
> > Hello everyone! Stayed up late last evening (and got up early
this
> > Sunday morning) to put together the heart of the 2n2 40+ - the
VFO.
> >
> > I do get an output (as seen on my scope) but was curious as to
how
> > much output I should be seeing. I measure the unterminated
output at
> > approx 200mv on my scope. I somehow would have expected this to
be
> > higher. I swapped out C12 (330pf cap) and replaced it with a
270pf
> > to see the effect. As expected, the output droped to approx 50mv
> > (both measurements were made with the trim cap TC4 at maximum. I
> > tried to find the signal on my general coverage receiver but
could
> > not hear it for some reason? I will be trying this again when I
get
> > back from a business trip. Before I proceed I want to be sure
that
> > the VFO is working properly and provides sufficient drive.
> >
> > By the way, I did do all the dc measurements found on the
schematic
> > and all voltages are correct (within .1 volt or so).
> >
> > Just curious if anyone has any of their measurements handy that
they
> > can pass along. Assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank
you
> > in advance.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Serge
> > VA3SB
> >
>
Brian,
Your pace on the 2N2-40+ is about even with mine, due to some other
projects. Whwn you measured the VFO output, did you just terminate it
with a 50 ohom resistor and put the scope across that? I just have
the VFO section sitting there alone in the middle of the board.
72,
Ted KX4OM
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "brianars" wrote:
>
> Serge...
>
> That does sound a little low. I've been -slowly- building a 2N2 40+
> for about 6 months now, and I recall measuring higher. A quick look
> in the Files section on this group shows a scope plot of the VFO that
> Jim took. That shows about 1.2Vp-p from the VFO. This sounds more
> like what I got, but I think mine was a little lower.
>
> Brian - N1FIY
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "smbertuzzo@" wrote:
> >
> > Hello everyone! Stayed up late last evening (and got up early this
> > Sunday morning) to put together the heart of the 2n2 40+ - the VFO.
> >
> > I do get an output (as seen on my scope) but was curious as to how
> > much output I should be seeing. I measure the unterminated output at
> > approx 200mv on my scope. I somehow would have expected this to be
> > higher. I swapped out C12 (330pf cap) and replaced it with a 270pf
> > to see the effect. As expected, the output droped to approx 50mv
> > (both measurements were made with the trim cap TC4 at maximum. I
> > tried to find the signal on my general coverage receiver but could
> > not hear it for some reason? I will be trying this again when I get
> > back from a business trip. Before I proceed I want to be sure that
> > the VFO is working properly and provides sufficient drive.
> >
> > By the way, I did do all the dc measurements found on the schematic
> > and all voltages are correct (within .1 volt or so).
> >
> > Just curious if anyone has any of their measurements handy that they
> > can pass along. Assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
> > in advance.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Serge
> > VA3SB
> >
>
Ted...
I'm not 100% certain, but I think I measured it both open (no
additional load) and with (maybe) a 1K resistor for a load. I don't
think I used a 50 ohm resistor, but again, this measurement was taken
about 2 months ago. If I get some time over the weekend, I may just
test it again.
Brian - N1FIY
>
> Brian,
> Your pace on the 2N2-40+ is about even with mine, due to some other
> projects. Whwn you measured the VFO output, did you just terminate it
> with a 50 ohom resistor and put the scope across that? I just have
> the VFO section sitting there alone in the middle of the board.
>
> 72,
> Ted KX4OM
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "brianars" wrote:
> >
> > Serge...
> >
> > That does sound a little low. I've been -slowly- building a 2N2 40+
> > for about 6 months now, and I recall measuring higher. A quick look
> > in the Files section on this group shows a scope plot of the VFO that
> > Jim took. That shows about 1.2Vp-p from the VFO. This sounds more
> > like what I got, but I think mine was a little lower.
> >
> > Brian - N1FIY
> >
Gents:
Check out Jim's (K8IQY) message #789 from some time back. 1.5 volts
peak-peak or so with a 100 ohm load on T5. I searched on VFO output,
all sorts of hits. Mine isn't there yet either, some more work to do.
73 - Gene ak9n
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "brianars" wrote:
>
> Ted...
>
> I'm not 100% certain, but I think I measured it both open (no
> additional load) and with (maybe) a 1K resistor for a load. I don't
> think I used a 50 ohm resistor, but again, this measurement was taken
> about 2 months ago. If I get some time over the weekend, I may just
> test it again.
>
> Brian - N1FIY
>
> >
> > Brian,
> > Your pace on the 2N2-40+ is about even with mine, due to some other
> > projects. Whwn you measured the VFO output, did you just terminate it
> > with a 50 ohom resistor and put the scope across that? I just have
> > the VFO section sitting there alone in the middle of the board.
> >
> > 72,
> > Ted KX4OM
Gents:
Check out Jim's (K8IQY) message #789 from some time back. 1.5 volts
peak-peak or so with a 100 ohm load on T5. I searched on VFO output,
all sorts of hits. Mine isn't there yet either, some more work to do.
73 - Gene ak9n
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "brianars" wrote:
>
> Ted...
>
> I'm not 100% certain, but I think I measured it both open (no
> additional load) and with (maybe) a 1K resistor for a load. I don't
> think I used a 50 ohm resistor, but again, this measurement was taken
> about 2 months ago. If I get some time over the weekend, I may just
> test it again.
>
> Brian - N1FIY
>
> >
> > Brian,
> > Your pace on the 2N2-40+ is about even with mine, due to some other
> > projects. Whwn you measured the VFO output, did you just terminate it
> > with a 50 ohom resistor and put the scope across that? I just have
> > the VFO section sitting there alone in the middle of the board.
> >
> > 72,
> > Ted KX4OM
Hello Gene and thanks for your post. Well, I swapped out a couple of
caps in my VFO (I had built it without some of the NPO , Polystyrene
as well as polyester caps and I got the VFO working just fine. I
actually measured the output of T5 (unterminated) at approximately
2.5 V. The most critical caps in my case seemed to be the two .001uf
polyester. I also used a 330pf NPO cap instead of the polystyrene.
Very nice clean sinewave on the scope. I also managed to build up
the Front End of the receiver yesterday but ran out of time and was
not able to test it. Hope to do so this evening.
By the way, I take it that your VFO is not working yet? Does it do
anything? If not I would check how you wound T4. I made a mistake on
my 2N2 20 and it took me a couple of days to figure it out...as I
had all the right caps in the circuit and it could only by the
transformer!!! Good luck..
Have a great day...
Serge
VA3SB
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "whitetank48" wrote:
>
> Gents:
>
> Check out Jim's (K8IQY) message #789 from some time back. 1.5
volts
> peak-peak or so with a 100 ohm load on T5. I searched on VFO
output,
> all sorts of hits. Mine isn't there yet either, some more work to
do.
>
> 73 - Gene ak9n
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "brianars" wrote:
> >
> > Ted...
> >
> > I'm not 100% certain, but I think I measured it both open (no
> > additional load) and with (maybe) a 1K resistor for a load. I
don't
> > think I used a 50 ohm resistor, but again, this measurement was
taken
> > about 2 months ago. If I get some time over the weekend, I may
just
> > test it again.
> >
> > Brian - N1FIY
> >
> > >
> > > Brian,
> > > Your pace on the 2N2-40+ is about even with mine, due to some
other
> > > projects. Whwn you measured the VFO output, did you just
terminate it
> > > with a 50 ohom resistor and put the scope across that? I just
have
> > > the VFO section sitting there alone in the middle of the board.
> > >
> > > 72,
> > > Ted KX4OM
>
Greetings from Alaska,
I have just uploaded three of my talks to my website. These are PowerPoint
slide shows and they each have provided about a 50-60 minute program when
questions from the audience are flowing reasonably well. "Kits and
Construction" was presented last Friday and it lasted about 55 minutes.
I hope these PPT slides will help someone to be brave enough to do a club
program somewhere. Let me know if you do and tell me how it was received.
Obviously feel free to add or delete slides to fit your local area. I would
love to see any new slides you come up with.
Thanks.
Jim
--
Jim Larsen, AL7FS
http://www.AL7FS.us/ Skype: al7fs-jim ICQ: 11022915
PowerPoint Presentations
Presented by AL7FS in the
Anchorage and South Central Alaska Area
http://www.al7fs.us/ Why QRP? September 2002 (Huge file: 35Mb) 72 slides
(Based on the original ppt slides from N2APB, George Heron)
QRP Show and Tell May 2005(7.1Mb) 75 slides
Kits and Construction March 2006(6.2Mb) 55 slides
Hello everyone! Just curious and would certainly welcome your
feedback. I just finished building the rx front end and the DB
mixer. I tested it by taking the output of the DB mixer (i.e.
windings 4 and 5) and feeding that to the input of a general
coverage receiver tuned to 4.915MHz. I then attached a piece of wire
to TC9 (i.e. rx antenna). I tuned the 2N2 40+ VFO to 2.135 MHz and
transmitted with my shack rig on 7.050 MHz. I heard the signal loud
and clear on the general coverage receiver. I then tuned my TX down
to 7.010 MHz and made a quick test transmission. Heard that loud and
clear when I used the 10T pot to tune in my transmitted signal. I
assume that the Front End of the Receiver together with the DB Mixer
appear to be working correctly. By the way, this was my first
attempt at building a DB mixer from scratch and it was really not as
difficult as I thought. Glad I did it rather than going with a
commercial mixer - if for nothing else but the experience.
However (there always seems to be a however!!!)what I am seeking
comments as to why there is no effect to the rx level by adjusting
pots TC1, TC2 and TC9? (antenna connected to the 2N2 40+ is a 20
foot piece of wire). Further, if I remove the antenna from the
connection at TC9, there is virtually no change to the signal level
heard on the general coverage receiver. While I have been able to
transmit with my shack rig and tune it in using the VFO tuning
control, I am not able to receive any off air signals...
Have checked the connections/components and transformers but will be
doing it again tomorrow as I am a bit tired. Any comments would be
appreciated.
Regards,
Serge
|
3383|3383|2006-03-10 03:58:46|Julius Wijaya|DDS for 2n2-40|Hi everybody,
I have never succesfully made a goo VFO for any of my
projects, that is why i usually use DDS+PIC for that
purpose. The reason for that is, its hard to find NPO,
Silver Mica, or such capactior for better stability of
the VFO itself.
So, now i was thinking to replace the VFO from the
2n2-40 design with one of my DDS board. I wonder if
there is anyody have tried using DDS, because i dont
have any idea how to inject the DDS to the RX and TX
part on 2n2-40, since the original design is using one
transformer to split between RX and TX vfo output.
please help if someone has the answer for me.
thanks
julius
_______________________________________________________________________________
Apakah Anda Yahoo!?
Kunjungi halaman depan Yahoo! Indonesia yang baru!
http://beta.id.yahoo.com/Well, here is an update on my build. Had some time last night to
play in the shack.
To recap, I am unable to tune the front end of the 2n240+. I am able
to tune the 40M band with a general coverage receiver tuned to 4.915
MHz. The problem is twofold. The first is that I am not able to hear
any cw at all. I know that there are some stations as I can hear
them with my station rig. I know (well at least I think I know) that
I am tuning the 40M band because when I measure the frequency at the
output of the VFO - I am able to tune from 2.088 - 2.188 MHz.
I am also unable to peak the incoming signal with the help of
TC9.TC1 and TC2. I have removed and checked all trimmers, the 4148
diodes at TC9, I have rewound all of the transformers, checked the
RF AMP PN222 as well as all of the remaining components all are
good. By the way, I used the great photos in the Winter 1998 QRPp
magazine article as a guide to ensure that I had all the
transformers wound the right way.
I did make some measurements around the circuit:
The output of the VFO unloaded is approx 3.5V P-P (at T5 - 4)
The ouput of the VFO when loaded is approx 1.5 V P-P (T5 - 4)
At C12 I had to increase the capacitance to 347 uf to get the 3.5V P-
P output at the VFO
I also measured the dc voltages at Q4 as follows. Emitter is 1.05V -
Base 1.7 V - Collector 13.2 V (VCC is 13.9V)
If I transmit using another rig, I am able to tune in my
transmission no problem. I take it that this means that the DB mixer
is working as I can hear my transmissions on the general coverage
receiver?
Any suggestions guidance would be appreciated..
THanks in advance.
Serge
VA3SB
|
3385|3383|2006-03-13 18:27:05|Jim Kortge|Re: DDS for 2n2-40|Julius Wijaya wrote:
> Hi everybody,
Greetings Julius,
>
> I have never succesfully made a goo VFO for any of my
> projects, that is why i usually use DDS+PIC for that
> purpose. The reason for that is, its hard to find NPO,
> Silver Mica, or such capactior for better stability of
> the VFO itself.
Well not being able to get the right kind of
capacitors makes making a good, stable VFO more
of a challenge. We have it good here in the USA
with lots of parts suppliers, who carry what we
need and sell it very reasonably.
>
> So, now i was thinking to replace the VFO from the
> 2n2-40 design with one of my DDS board. I wonder if
> there is anyody have tried using DDS, because i dont
> have any idea how to inject the DDS to the RX and TX
> part on 2n2-40, since the original design is using one
> transformer to split between RX and TX vfo output.
I'd be inclined to drive the Receive DBM with the
output of the DDS directly and set it for +7 to
+10 dBm, and use a simple voltage divider on the
same output to set the drive level for the Tx DBM.
The RF input to the Tx DBM should be about 0 dBm,
so you can figure out the required divider
resistors. Set the resistors up so that the Tx DBM
RF port is seeing approximately 50 Ohms. That kind
of setup should work fine.
>
> please help if someone has the answer for me.
See above.....
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Jim,
> I'd be inclined to drive the Receive DBM with the
> output of the DDS directly and set it for +7 to
> +10 dBm, and use a simple voltage divider on the
> same output to set the drive level for the Tx DBM.
> The RF input to the Tx DBM should be about 0 dBm,
> so you can figure out the required divider
> resistors. Set the resistors up so that the Tx DBM
> RF port is seeing approximately 50 Ohms. That kind
> of setup should work fine.
> >
Ok, honestly, theres still a lot of stuff i need to learn about
electronics theory and design, including this voltage divider...
Well, today, I learn about power conversion, dBm to miliWatts, and to
miliVolts, now i know what you meant by +7dBm to 10dBm for RX VFO,
also the TX RF input 0 dBm. Next i will try understand about voltage
divider.. or maybe you could enlighten me about this one.. :)
best regards,
julius
a 6-8db 50 ohm 'pi' attenuator/pad should get you in the ballpark,
just google '50 ohm pad' and that should get you several sites that
can give you the values
JR
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "iyung_w" wrote:
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> > I'd be inclined to drive the Receive DBM with the
> > output of the DDS directly and set it for +7 to
> > +10 dBm, and use a simple voltage divider on the
> > same output to set the drive level for the Tx DBM.
> > The RF input to the Tx DBM should be about 0 dBm,
> > so you can figure out the required divider
> > resistors. Set the resistors up so that the Tx DBM
> > RF port is seeing approximately 50 Ohms. That kind
> > of setup should work fine.
> > >
>
> Ok, honestly, theres still a lot of stuff i need to learn about
> electronics theory and design, including this voltage divider...
>
> Well, today, I learn about power conversion, dBm to miliWatts, and to
> miliVolts, now i know what you meant by +7dBm to 10dBm for RX VFO,
> also the TX RF input 0 dBm. Next i will try understand about voltage
> divider.. or maybe you could enlighten me about this one.. :)
>
> best regards,
> julius
>
Hey folks... Been a long time since I've posted here, but figured I would
stop by and say hi and also let you know that I have just posted some
photos of my newly completed 2N2/20. I must say this rig is quite
impressive and have already worked quite a bit of DX with it.
Hope you like it.
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
|
3389|3388|2006-03-22 16:06:35|dek8gd|Re: 2N2/20 Pics|Guess I should have said where the pictures are :-)
You can find them under Photos/K8GD. I think you have to click over
to the second page of pictures to see them.
72,
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "dek8gd" wrote:
>
> Hey folks... Been a long time since I've posted here, but figured I
would
> stop by and say hi and also let you know that I have just posted some
> photos of my newly completed 2N2/20. I must say this rig is quite
> impressive and have already worked quite a bit of DX with it.
>
> Hope you like it.
>
> Best 72,
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
I found them OK ... Looks real nice with the LCD display
JR
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "dek8gd" wrote:
>
> Guess I should have said where the pictures are :-)
>
> You can find them under Photos/K8GD. I think you have to click over
> to the second page of pictures to see them.
>
> 72,
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
>
Jeff,
That looks like a commercial rig, and a nice one at that. What is the
source of the case? Also, same question for your 2N2-30?
72,
Ted KX4OM
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "dek8gd" wrote:
>
> Guess I should have said where the pictures are :-)
>
> You can find them under Photos/K8GD. I think you have to click over
> to the second page of pictures to see them.
>
> 72,
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "dek8gd" wrote:
> >
> > Hey folks... Been a long time since I've posted here, but figured I
> would
> > stop by and say hi and also let you know that I have just posted some
> > photos of my newly completed 2N2/20. I must say this rig is quite
> > impressive and have already worked quite a bit of DX with it.
> >
> > Hope you like it.
> >
> > Best 72,
> >
> > Jeff - K8GD
> >
>
Hi Ted.
The 2N2/20 enclosure is of the Ten-Tec variety. Those guys build some
very nice encloures and are extremely reasonable.... I think that one is
in the $10.00 range. The lettering on the front (and back) I did with
white dry transfer labels. After I put the labels on, I put about 3 thin
coats of spray clear coat to protect them.
As for the 2N2/30, that enclosure is home brew. The bottom part is from
an old computer power supply, and the top part I made from an old
discarded cover to a VCR. The front and back panels are designed on my
computer, then using overhead transparency and running them through a
laser printer and using the control fasteners to hold them in place. It
works pretty well and you can get pretty creative with designs that way...
especially if you have access to a color laser printer :-)
Thanks and best 72.
Jeff - K8GD
kilocycles
> Jeff,
> That looks like a commercial rig, and a nice one at that. What is the
> source of the case? Also, same question for your 2N2-30?
>
> 72,
> Ted KX4OM
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "dek8gd" wrote:
>>
>> Guess I should have said where the pictures are :-)
>>
>> You can find them under Photos/K8GD. I think you have to click over
>> to the second page of pictures to see them.
>>
>> 72,
>>
>> Jeff - K8GD
>>
>>
>>
>> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "dek8gd" wrote:
>> >
>> > Hey folks... Been a long time since I've posted here, but figured I
>> would
>> > stop by and say hi and also let you know that I have just posted some
>> > photos of my newly completed 2N2/20. I must say this rig is quite
>> > impressive and have already worked quite a bit of DX with it.
>> >
>> > Hope you like it.
>> >
>> > Best 72,
>> >
>> > Jeff - K8GD
>> >
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Jeff,
Are you bringing those to Four Days in May, by any chance?
Ted
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, k8gd@... wrote:
>
>
> Hi Ted.
>
> The 2N2/20 enclosure is of the Ten-Tec variety. Those guys build some
> very nice encloures and are extremely reasonable.... I think that one is
> in the $10.00 range. The lettering on the front (and back) I did with
> white dry transfer labels. After I put the labels on, I put about 3
thin
> coats of spray clear coat to protect them.
>
> As for the 2N2/30, that enclosure is home brew. The bottom part is from
> an old computer power supply, and the top part I made from an old
> discarded cover to a VCR. The front and back panels are designed on my
> computer, then using overhead transparency and running them through a
> laser printer and using the control fasteners to hold them in place. It
> works pretty well and you can get pretty creative with designs that
way...
> especially if you have access to a color laser printer :-)
>
> Thanks and best 72.
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
>
> kilocycles
> > Jeff,
> > That looks like a commercial rig, and a nice one at that. What is the
> > source of the case? Also, same question for your 2N2-30?
> >
> > 72,
> > Ted KX4OM
---snip---
Hi Ted.
Yes, I'll be at FDIM this year and I plan on bringing the 2N2/20 with
me. I could bring the 2N2/30 with me as well if you would like to see
that one too. I live about 20 miles from where the QRPARCI stuff
happens, so it's a pretty easy trip :-)
Looking forward to it for sure!
TTUL.
72,
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "kilocycles" wrote:
>
> Jeff,
> Are you bringing those to Four Days in May, by any chance?
>
> Ted
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, k8gd@ wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi Ted.
> >
> > The 2N2/20 enclosure is of the Ten-Tec variety. Those guys build some
> > very nice encloures and are extremely reasonable.... I think that
one is
> > in the $10.00 range. The lettering on the front (and back) I did with
> > white dry transfer labels. After I put the labels on, I put about 3
> thin
> > coats of spray clear coat to protect them.
> >
> > As for the 2N2/30, that enclosure is home brew. The bottom part
is from
> > an old computer power supply, and the top part I made from an old
> > discarded cover to a VCR. The front and back panels are designed
on my
> > computer, then using overhead transparency and running them through a
> > laser printer and using the control fasteners to hold them in
place. It
> > works pretty well and you can get pretty creative with designs that
> way...
> > especially if you have access to a color laser printer :-)
> >
> > Thanks and best 72.
> >
> > Jeff - K8GD
> >
> >
> > kilocycles
> > > Jeff,
> > > That looks like a commercial rig, and a nice one at that. What
is the
> > > source of the case? Also, same question for your 2N2-30?
> > >
> > > 72,
> > > Ted KX4OM
> ---snip---
>
What voltages should I be seeing on the RX and TX lines when I key the
radio to put it into transmit?? I am seeing about 5.5 to 6 volts on
these and I would have thought that they would swing more than that. I
am having problems getting a reasonable amount of power out, I do not
get more than 1 watt, closer to 750mw or so and am wondering if the Tx
line might not be sourcing enough current..
Anyone's thought on this would be of help..
Steve NU0P
|
3396|3395|2006-03-26 16:41:12|Steve White|Re: A troubleshooting question|I found the problem and it was the J176 that had gone bad on me. Funny
the mute worked just fine so it was not obvious that the J176 was the
problem, not untill I began looking at the TX line did I begin to
suspect it.
Steve NU0P
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Steve White" wrote:
>
> What voltages should I be seeing on the RX and TX lines when I key
the
> radio to put it into transmit?? I am seeing about 5.5 to 6 volts on
> these and I would have thought that they would swing more than that.
I
> am having problems getting a reasonable amount of power out, I do not
> get more than 1 watt, closer to 750mw or so and am wondering if the
Tx
> line might not be sourcing enough current..
>
>
> Anyone's thought on this would be of help..
>
> Steve NU0P
>
Steve White wrote:
>
> I found the problem and it was the J176 that had gone bad on me. Funny
> the mute worked just fine so it was not obvious that the J176 was the
> problem, not untill I began looking at the TX line did I begin to
> suspect it.
>
> Steve NU0P
Steve,
Sorry that I didn't respond sooner; been out of
time most of the past month. Glad you found your
problem. Interesting it was the J176. Don't think
I've ever had one of those rascals fail. Guess
there is a first time for everything! :-)
72 and GL with your 2N2/40
Jim, K8IQY
Steve White wrote:
>
> I found the problem and it was the J176 that had gone bad on me. Funny
> the mute worked just fine so it was not obvious that the J176 was the
> problem, not untill I began looking at the TX line did I begin to
> suspect it.
>
> Steve NU0P
Make that "out of town" the past month.
Sorry,
Jim, K8IQY
I've been out of time too..... :-)
Ole Kip's excitement about building the 2N2 has "flung a cravin" on
me to try to build one as well. I have built the 4 SW+ kits and a
Wilderness Sierra and an SST but never anything like this.
First question:
Can a 2N2-30 be built using K3PEG's layout by changing the proper
parts to do a 30 instead of the 40 or 20?
Where does a guy go to get matched crystals? Most everything else can
be ordered from Mouser and other suppliers. Any other outlets for
parts? Does anyone have the stuff bought and not going to get to build
it?
I have a ton more questions but they escape me at the moment. I got
the address to order the 2N2 book... I need some reading material I
think. Thanks and I will keep on reading past message posts. Thanks de
Paul N0NBD
|
3400|3399|2006-04-01 11:38:56|Steve NU0P|Re: 2N2 questions|Paul
The 2N2-30 is very similar to the 2N2-30 but they are not identical. There
are differences in the Mixer and IF filtering as a minimum. However, I
think it would be easy to use the K3PEG layout and modify it for use in
building up a 2N2-30. If y our look at the schematics of the two radios you
will easily see the differences in those two areas. I would take this
approach if it was me. I built the 2N2-40 and have been looking at the
2N2-30 as a next step or possibly the 2N2-20. I obtained the crystals for
the filter from Digikey. I just bought 10 or so and matched them myself as
well as I could with an oscillator and counter. The ones that were the
closest became the filter and the rest were used in the Rx and Tx
oscillators. It was quite easy. I know of no one who has a set of parts
already to buy off the shelf. I got most of my parts from Digikey, Mouser
and the junk box.
This was the very best item that I have ever built and use it all the time.
I added a Digital Display for a very nice readout also. It was a kit of
parts that I got from a guy in Australia, but there are several schematics
on the net that you could build one from as well. Also think you can buy
this item from other vendors now..
Steve NU0P
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
paul22553
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 8:01 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2 questions
Ole Kip's excitement about building the 2N2 has "flung a cravin" on
me to try to build one as well. I have built the 4 SW+ kits and a
Wilderness Sierra and an SST but never anything like this. First question:
Can a 2N2-30 be built using K3PEG's layout by changing the proper
parts to do a 30 instead of the 40 or 20?
Where does a guy go to get matched crystals? Most everything else can
be ordered from Mouser and other suppliers. Any other outlets for
parts? Does anyone have the stuff bought and not going to get to build
it?
I have a ton more questions but they escape me at the moment. I got
the address to order the 2N2 book... I need some reading material I
think. Thanks and I will keep on reading past message posts. Thanks de
Paul N0NBD
Yahoo! Groups Links
Thanks for the info Steve,
I will put on my magnifier and do some more looking.
Tnx agn de paul N0NBD
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Steve NU0P
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 10:39 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [2n2-40] 2N2 questions
Paul
The 2N2-30 is very similar to the 2N2-30 but they are not identical.
There
are differences in the Mixer and IF filtering as a minimum. However, I
think it would be easy to use the K3PEG layout and modify it for use in
building up a 2N2-30. If y our look at the schematics of the two radios
you
will easily see the differences in those two areas. I would take this
approach if it was me. I built the 2N2-40 and have been looking at the
2N2-30 as a next step or possibly the 2N2-20. I obtained the crystals
for
the filter from Digikey. I just bought 10 or so and matched them myself
as
well as I could with an oscillator and counter. The ones that were the
closest became the filter and the rest were used in the Rx and Tx
oscillators. It was quite easy. I know of no one who has a set of parts
already to buy off the shelf. I got most of my parts from Digikey,
Mouser
and the junk box.
This was the very best item that I have ever built and use it all the
time.
I added a Digital Display for a very nice readout also. It was a kit of
parts that I got from a guy in Australia, but there are several
schematics
on the net that you could build one from as well. Also think you can
buy
this item from other vendors now..
Steve NU0P
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of
paul22553
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 8:01 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2 questions
Ole Kip's excitement about building the 2N2 has "flung a cravin" on
me to try to build one as well. I have built the 4 SW+ kits and a
Wilderness Sierra and an SST but never anything like this. First
question:
Can a 2N2-30 be built using K3PEG's layout by changing the proper
parts to do a 30 instead of the 40 or 20?
Where does a guy go to get matched crystals? Most everything else can
be ordered from Mouser and other suppliers. Any other outlets for
parts? Does anyone have the stuff bought and not going to get to build
it?
I have a ton more questions but they escape me at the moment. I got
the address to order the 2N2 book... I need some reading material I
think. Thanks and I will keep on reading past message posts. Thanks de
Paul N0NBD
Yahoo! Groups Links
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]Greeting Jim. I trust all is well with you and your family.
Just wanted to let you know that I worked on the 2N2 40+ last
evening and got the receiver working FB. What a receiver...it sounds
great! Minor issue is when I touch the audio control pot I hear a
broadcast station in the backgroud - not a big deal though.
By the way, the problem with the receiver was a dumb one in the
first place. I traced the problem to a trifillar transformer.
Rewound it and hooked it up properly (this time :-)) and off it
went! I think I am going to invest in some multi colour wire for
winding toroids in the future however.
Today I got up early did some chores and finished off the TX. Worked
right off the bat. Tuned it up and found I had almost 2.4 watts out.
I reduced it to 2 W. First two calls were to AB2N and then WB4FDT.
They came right back to me! Looks like it is working just fine. I am
going to put a frequency counter in this one as well. I am sure I
have another one around here somewhere.
Just wanted to pass the info along. Hope you are having a great
weekend.
Regards,
Serge
VA3SB
|
3403|3395|2006-04-01 22:01:55|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2 40+|serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> Greeting Jim. I trust all is well with you and your family.
Hi Serge,
Yes, everything is going along fine. Still putting time into getting my
mom's estate settled, but I take that a little bit at a time.
>
> Just wanted to let you know that I worked on the 2N2 40+ last
> evening and got the receiver working FB. What a receiver...it sounds
> great! Minor issue is when I touch the audio control pot I hear a
> broadcast station in the backgroud - not a big deal though.
Interesting that you are hearing a BC station. Do you know what
frequency it is on? I'd like to simulate what you are hearing.
Is the shaft of the audio pot grounded (metal) or plastic?
>
> By the way, the problem with the receiver was a dumb one in the
> first place. I traced the problem to a trifillar transformer.
> Rewound it and hooked it up properly (this time :-)) and off it
> went! I think I am going to invest in some multi colour wire for
> winding toroids in the future however.
Yes, winding trifilar transformers with wire all the same color and
sizes is an invitation for problems. I've used some of the Kynar
coated wire-wrap wire for those, and while a tad bulky, it seems to work
fine, and lot of colors available. I think it is 30 guage.
>
> Today I got up early did some chores and finished off the TX. Worked
> right off the bat. Tuned it up and found I had almost 2.4 watts out.
2-watts is a good level for those finals. Much more is pushing them.
> I reduced it to 2 W. First two calls were to AB2N and then WB4FDT.
> They came right back to me! Looks like it is working just fine. I am
> going to put a frequency counter in this one as well. I am sure I
> have another one around here somewhere.
Good going....it's always nice to make contacts on a brand new rig.
Makes it all worth while.
I sure like the display that I got from KD1JV. The FCC-1 from NorCal
ought to work fine too. I'd like to get one to play with, and a FCC-2
also when they have them back in stock.
>
> Just wanted to pass the info along. Hope you are having a great
> weekend.
So far, so good. One of the Kensington ospreys may be back. Going to go
check that out tomorrow if it isn't too cold. Had a few warm days, and
now winter is trying to return. I don't want it!!!
72 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
Thank you for your prompt response Jim. Glad to hear all is well.
Well, with respect to the BC station, after I read your message, I
simply connected the shaft of the pot to ground and the BC
interference disappeared!. Guess when the pot is mounted to the
enclosure the problem will be solved. In the meantime, I will just
hook up an alligator clip to the shaft and ground it. Thanks...
Transformers are a challenge however, if one uses the multicoloured
wire for the bifillars and trifillars they should not be too
difficult to wind.
Very happy with my output power. In fact the first time I thought I
did something wrong and did not have the rig tuned up properly so I
did it again. I certainly agree that with those very inexpensive
finals 2 watts is a very good output.
As far as the frequency display units, I actually already have a
FCC1 that I have not built yet. I also was fortunate enough to have
placed my order in time for the first FCC2 run as well this week.
That should be fun to play with.
What I plan to do is clean up the rig/wiring and just use it on the
air as is until I get to Dayton. I usually buy a few Ten TEc
enclosures at the Hamvention and will pick one up for the 2n2 40+.
With respect to the Ospreys, certainly hope that one of them has
returned. Indeed winter seemed to have gone away and is slowly
trying to muscle its way back. I agree with you I have had it for
this year..bring on the spring and summer!
Have a great Sunday. Regards,
Serge
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
>
> serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> > Greeting Jim. I trust all is well with you and your family.
>
> Hi Serge,
>
> Yes, everything is going along fine. Still putting time into
getting my
> mom's estate settled, but I take that a little bit at a time.
>
> >
> > Just wanted to let you know that I worked on the 2N2 40+ last
> > evening and got the receiver working FB. What a receiver...it
sounds
> > great! Minor issue is when I touch the audio control pot I hear
a
> > broadcast station in the backgroud - not a big deal though.
>
> Interesting that you are hearing a BC station. Do you know what
> frequency it is on? I'd like to simulate what you are hearing.
> Is the shaft of the audio pot grounded (metal) or plastic?
>
> >
> > By the way, the problem with the receiver was a dumb one in the
> > first place. I traced the problem to a trifillar transformer.
> > Rewound it and hooked it up properly (this time :-)) and off it
> > went! I think I am going to invest in some multi colour wire for
> > winding toroids in the future however.
>
> Yes, winding trifilar transformers with wire all the same color
and
> sizes is an invitation for problems. I've used some of the Kynar
> coated wire-wrap wire for those, and while a tad bulky, it seems
to work
> fine, and lot of colors available. I think it is 30 guage.
> >
> > Today I got up early did some chores and finished off the TX.
Worked
> > right off the bat. Tuned it up and found I had almost 2.4 watts
out.
>
>
> 2-watts is a good level for those finals. Much more is pushing
them.
>
> > I reduced it to 2 W. First two calls were to AB2N and then
WB4FDT.
> > They came right back to me! Looks like it is working just fine.
I am
> > going to put a frequency counter in this one as well. I am sure
I
> > have another one around here somewhere.
>
> Good going....it's always nice to make contacts on a brand new rig.
> Makes it all worth while.
>
> I sure like the display that I got from KD1JV. The FCC-1 from
NorCal
> ought to work fine too. I'd like to get one to play with, and a
FCC-2
> also when they have them back in stock.
>
> >
> > Just wanted to pass the info along. Hope you are having a great
> > weekend.
>
> So far, so good. One of the Kensington ospreys may be back. Going
to go
> check that out tomorrow if it isn't too cold. Had a few warm
days, and
> now winter is trying to return. I don't want it!!!
>
> 72 and thanks for the update,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Hi Guys,
In case you need some stuff for the junkbox, here's my latest list.
Check out the website once a week or so, I always have stuff coming on the
list, and leaving the list.
I have moved my junkbox surplus stuff to a new website.
http://www.hamradparts.com 1N4148 Diodes $3.00 for 100, $4.00 for 200
1N4007 - 1 Amp General Purpose Rectifier Diodes - $3.00 for 50
1500pf NPO Caps, SMT 0805, 50V - $3.00 for 100
3300pf NPO Caps, SMT 0805, 25V - $3.00 for 100
220pf NPO Caps, SMT 0805, 50V - $3.00 for 100
150pf NPO Caps, SMT 0805, 50V - $3.00 for 100
2N3704 NPN TO92 - 20 for $2.00
2N2907 PNP TO92 Package - $4.00 for 50
2N3904 NPN TO92 Package - $4.00 for 50
2N2222 NPN TO18 (metal) Package - 5 for $1.00
MMBT4403 PNP SMT transistor - 50 for $4.00
2N2222 NPN TO92 Package - $4.00 for 50
The 2N2222 is a bulk transistor...meaning the part is not labeled.
They ship in a Zip Lock packet and the packet is clearly labeled.
2N3906 PNP TO92 Package - $4.00 for 50
The 2N3906 is a bulk transistor...meaning the part is not labeled.
They ship in a Zip Lock packet and the packet is clearly labeled.
2SC2166 - RF AMP TO220 (8 left) - $4.50 each
IRF510 - MOSFET AMP TO220 - 4 for $5.00
3.575611 Mhz HC49 Crystals - 5 for $2.00
4.9152 Mhz HC49 Crystals - 10 for $3.00
9.830 Mhx Crystals (SS@ package) - 10 for $3.00
LM7805ACV 5v Positive Voltage Regulators (TO220) 5 for $2.00
LM386N-1 - Audio Amp 6 for $5.00
Sticky Back Black Rubber Feet for your projects, self adhesive - 8 to a
strip - 2 Strips for $1.00
Deluxe Metal Utility Cabinet RS part 270-251 Brand New in box
3.25W by 2.25H by 4"D - Removable rubber feet, Steel cover with Aluminum
panels,
Louvered for ventilation - $5.00 each ( I have 6 left)
Panasonic Wall Warts - 12VDC, 500mA (center negative) $6.00 each
If you need center positiove, cut off the end and reverse it. I use these to
power my
rock mites, my TT2, and all of my homebrew test gear.
NON-SMT Capacitors: 50 for $3.00
=======================================
8pf NPO Ceramic
11pf NPO Ceramic
12pf NPO Ceramic
22pf Ceramic
470pf Ceramic
560pf Ceramic
.1 uF (104J) Ceramic
Cash or Check or Money Order only.
Prices includes USA shipping, minimum order is $5.00, otherwise add a buck for
shipping. Will ship DX, email for details.
Brian Murrey
47 Grassy Drive
New Whiteland IN 46184
73 de KB9BVN
=========================================
Radio Amateurs - Fill your junk box, from my junkbox!
http://www.hamradparts.com 73 de KB9BVN
=========================================
Hello group. Now that I have successfully built the 2N2 40+ I am
looking at building the 2N2 30 transceiver.
Looking at the parts list I assume that the first 13 items are all
NPO type caps. Item number 14 (qty 4) is a 1000 pf cap. What kind of
capacitors are these? Silver Mica?
Can anyone point me to a source for the 2SC2166 final transistor?
Also anything that I should be aware of before starting to build
this particular rig? So far I have built the 2N2 20 and the 2N2 40+
rigs and while I ran into a couple of challenges the two rigs work
just great!
Thank you in advance.
Regards,
Serge
VA3SB
|
3407|3395|2006-04-04 20:02:17|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2 30 Parts list question|serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> Hello group. Now that I have successfully built the 2N2 40+ I am
> looking at building the 2N2 30 transceiver.
>
> Looking at the parts list I assume that the first 13 items are all
> NPO type caps.
I forgot to look, but if they are small values, probably NPO.
Item number 14 (qty 4) is a 1000 pf cap. What kind of
> capacitors are these? Silver Mica?
The first two are polyester or mylar, but could probably also be
polystyrene. Those are in the VFO and are negative tempco to help with
VFO stability. The other two are emitter bypass capacitors, and are
common 0.001 or 1000 pF with any kind of tempco. NPO will certainly work
there, but not necessary.
>
> Can anyone point me to a source for the 2SC2166 final transistor?
Any of the common "CB" final transistors are suitable, such as 2SC1969,
2SC2075, 2SC2078. All available from Consolidated Electronics in Dayton.
A good item to put on your Dayton shopping list. Diz has 2SC2075 if I
remember correctly. He may well be selling parts at Dayton. If you can't
find something by then, I'll give you one! :-)
>
> Also anything that I should be aware of before starting to build
> this particular rig? So far I have built the 2N2 20 and the 2N2 40+
> rigs and while I ran into a couple of challenges the two rigs work
> just great!
Wind the trifilar transformers correctly! :-) Only Serge and I
understand that comment......
>
> Thank you in advance.
See you on 30 meters Serge.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks for your prompt response as usual Jim. Greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Serge
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
>
> serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> > Hello group. Now that I have successfully built the 2N2 40+ I am
> > looking at building the 2N2 30 transceiver.
> >
> > Looking at the parts list I assume that the first 13 items are
all
> > NPO type caps.
>
> I forgot to look, but if they are small values, probably NPO.
>
> Item number 14 (qty 4) is a 1000 pf cap. What kind of
> > capacitors are these? Silver Mica?
>
> The first two are polyester or mylar, but could probably also be
> polystyrene. Those are in the VFO and are negative tempco to help
with
> VFO stability. The other two are emitter bypass capacitors, and
are
> common 0.001 or 1000 pF with any kind of tempco. NPO will
certainly work
> there, but not necessary.
> >
> > Can anyone point me to a source for the 2SC2166 final transistor?
>
> Any of the common "CB" final transistors are suitable, such as
2SC1969,
> 2SC2075, 2SC2078. All available from Consolidated Electronics in
Dayton.
> A good item to put on your Dayton shopping list. Diz has 2SC2075
if I
> remember correctly. He may well be selling parts at Dayton. If you
can't
> find something by then, I'll give you one! :-)
> >
> > Also anything that I should be aware of before starting to build
> > this particular rig? So far I have built the 2N2 20 and the 2N2
40+
> > rigs and while I ran into a couple of challenges the two rigs
work
> > just great!
>
> Wind the trifilar transformers correctly! :-) Only Serge and I
> understand that comment......
> >
> > Thank you in advance.
>
> See you on 30 meters Serge.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Hi
I am into building the 2n2-20 and everything was running fine..RX up
and running very good and I have come to the tx-chain.
So TX locl osc running fine. Using a md-108 mixer ( like a sbl-1)
and getting about 100mv p-p to the primary of T9.
The comes the cascode amp Q 19 and Q 20.
When measuring the secondary of T10 ( where the pot is) I get only
about 200mv.Isn´t that a bit low ?
Thats 6db gain in the cascode amp.
So what is the " normal gain" of that amp ?
I have tried changing Q19 and Q20 but same result. I can peak TC8 and
TC9 so i guess thats not the problem.I am using t37-2 for t9 and T10
( just because I had them) and reduced the turns to 17 turns instead
to get 1.2uH.
So If someone could give me any inputs I´d be grateful
72
Frank
|
3410|3409|2006-04-18 17:31:00|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-20 tx trouble|subriaus wrote:
> Hi
>
Greetings Frank,
Nice to know another 2N2/20 is being built!
> I am into building the 2n2-20 and everything was running fine..RX up
> and running very good and I have come to the tx-chain.
> So TX locl osc running fine. Using a md-108 mixer ( like a sbl-1)
> and getting about 100mv p-p to the primary of T9.
> The comes the cascode amp Q 19 and Q 20.
> When measuring the secondary of T10 ( where the pot is) I get only
> about 200mv.Isn´t that a bit low ?
Sure is, by a lot. On my /20, I'm showing 100 mv p-p into the primary of
T9, just like you, and 1.5 volts out of the T10 secondary when there is
no drive going to the final.
> Thats 6db gain in the cascode amp.
> So what is the " normal gain" of that amp ?
And is should be more like 24 dB of gain.
> I have tried changing Q19 and Q20 but same result. I can peak TC8 and
> TC9 so i guess thats not the problem.
Well it might be. Do you see two peaks on each of the trimmers as they
rotate through a full turn? If not, the turned circuits are not getting
to a true peak.
I am using t37-2 for t9 and T10
> ( just because I had them) and reduced the turns to 17 turns instead
> to get 1.2uH.
The change to the T37-2 should be just fine. If you disconnect the T10
secondary from the pot, does the pot read 50 ohms and is it a non-wire
wound trim pot? It needs to be resistive only.
>
> So If someone could give me any inputs I´d be grateful
I've provided my dimes worth! :-) Anybody else got some thoughts?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hey guys.... Not sure if this is the problem or not, but I had a
similar problem with the 2N2/30 when I built it... Had to send it to
Jim to figure out what was going on.
Anyway, as it turned out, I wound what would be T9 in the 2N2/20
incorrectly.... I didn't have the "cold ends" of the primary and
secondary windings of the transformer matching (i.e. I had a ground on
each side of the torroid... hard to explain without a picture but
hopefully you understand what I mean).
Maybe something to look at.
As an aside, the 2N2/20 is a fantastic radio... I use it almost daily
and have been making DX contacts with regularity and always get good
signal reports.
Hope this helps.
Best 72,
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
>
> subriaus wrote:
> > Hi
> >
> Greetings Frank,
>
> Nice to know another 2N2/20 is being built!
>
> > I am into building the 2n2-20 and everything was running fine..RX up
> > and running very good and I have come to the tx-chain.
> > So TX locl osc running fine. Using a md-108 mixer ( like a sbl-1)
> > and getting about 100mv p-p to the primary of T9.
> > The comes the cascode amp Q 19 and Q 20.
> > When measuring the secondary of T10 ( where the pot is) I get only
> > about 200mv.Isn´t that a bit low ?
>
> Sure is, by a lot. On my /20, I'm showing 100 mv p-p into the
primary of
> T9, just like you, and 1.5 volts out of the T10 secondary when there is
> no drive going to the final.
>
> > Thats 6db gain in the cascode amp.
> > So what is the " normal gain" of that amp ?
>
> And is should be more like 24 dB of gain.
>
> > I have tried changing Q19 and Q20 but same result. I can peak TC8 and
> > TC9 so i guess thats not the problem.
>
> Well it might be. Do you see two peaks on each of the trimmers as they
> rotate through a full turn? If not, the turned circuits are not getting
> to a true peak.
>
> I am using t37-2 for t9 and T10
> > ( just because I had them) and reduced the turns to 17 turns instead
> > to get 1.2uH.
>
> The change to the T37-2 should be just fine. If you disconnect the T10
> secondary from the pot, does the pot read 50 ohms and is it a non-wire
> wound trim pot? It needs to be resistive only.
> >
> > So If someone could give me any inputs I´d be grateful
>
> I've provided my dimes worth! :-) Anybody else got some thoughts?
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Hi Jim
Thanks for Your quick response.
After working a whole day on the 2n2-20 I found the fault with the cascode
amp. And what a stupid mistake !!
Resistor R84 was not 4.3K but 47 Ohms.That explains the low gain.
Thats what happens when one tries to work fast and complete thing in a hurry.
I´ll let you know when the rig is complete and running.
Thanks again
Frank
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 11:29 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2-20 tx trouble
>
>
> subriaus wrote:
> > Hi
> >
> Greetings Frank,
>
> Nice to know another 2N2/20 is being built!
>
> > I am into building the 2n2-20 and everything was running fine..RX up
> > and running very good and I have come to the tx-chain.
> > So TX locl osc running fine. Using a md-108 mixer ( like a sbl-1)
> > and getting about 100mv p-p to the primary of T9.
> > The comes the cascode amp Q 19 and Q 20.
> > When measuring the secondary of T10 ( where the pot is) I get only
> > about 200mv.Isn´t that a bit low ?
>
>
Frank--
I know the feeling! About 60 years ago I built a
tuning eye accessory using a surplus 1629 "eye" tube.
It didn't work. I changed the tube---still didn't
work. I put the project aside and looked at it again
the following year. Still didn't work. I looked at it
again, off and on, over the next 30 years. Finally, I
decided to look closely at every component (there
weren't many). Between the plate and the target was a
resistor colored Brown-Green-Black-----not
Brown-Black-Green!!! 15 ohms not one megohm!
Oh well! Happens to the best of us, Frank.
Regards es 72/73
Bob
K6AEC
---
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2006 19:24:39 +0200
> From: "Frank" <fravin@glocalnet.net>
> Subject: Re: 2n2-20 tx trouble
>
> Hi Jim
>
> Thanks for Your quick response.
> After working a whole day on the 2n2-20 I found the
> fault with the cascode
> amp. And what a stupid mistake !!
> Resistor R84 was not 4.3K but 47 Ohms.That explains
> the low gain.
> Thats what happens when one tries to work fast and
> complete thing in a hurry.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.comGang,
I've changed the signup procedure for the 2N2-40 group so that you now
have to be approved by me. I'm not trying to keep out any of the
ligitimate users, but those who will take advantage of an "open" group
to promote their own agenda. That's already happened on the SMT
Traders group, and I'm trying to nip it in the bud, before it happens
here. Hope everyone understands. We just don't need any of that crap!!
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
|
3415|3414|2006-04-25 22:02:06|Howard Kraus|Re: Administrative Change to 2N2-40 group|Bravo Jim! I've seen just what you speak of happening
on one or two other ham-related lists. Members have
been subjected to all manner of off-topic material,
much of it objectionable.
I'd talk about bicycling, but even that is off-topic!
Just something I've been involved in of late.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- k8iqy <
jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
> Gang,
>
> I've changed the signup procedure for the 2N2-40
> group so that you now
> have to be approved by me. I'm not trying to keep
> out any of the
> ligitimate users, but those who will take advantage
> of an "open" group
> to promote their own agenda. That's already
> happened on the SMT
> Traders group, and I'm trying to nip it in the bud,
> before it happens
> here. Hope everyone understands. We just don't need
> any of that crap!!
>
> 72 and kind regards,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.comI just came into possession of several thousand brand new Motorola brand
PN2222 transistors in the TO-92 package. So I have them 100 for $7.00
including shipping in the USA. These are new (old stock), unused parts, still
on the
paper tape they were born with. The part is clearly labeled and is genuine
Motorola goods.
Order Item: PN2222 - Motorola
Send your order payable to:
Brian Murrey
47 Grassy Drive
New Whiteland IN 46184
or
Paypal to
orders@hamradparts.com =========================================
Radio Amateurs - Fill your junk box, from my junkbox!
http://www.hamradparts.com 73 de KB9BVN
=========================================
Hi Jim
I have noticed a lack of msg on this group so am I excluded from this
group with the new procedure thats in force ?. In any case I´d like to
get on the list again.
By the way my 2N2/20 is up running and just for fun I used it in the
Asian Cw contest this weekend and run some fine QSO´s including
some UA0 and JA´s with my 2 watts !! It´s got a terrific receiver
equal to my TS-850. Congrats on the design..
72/ Frank/SM5QU
-- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "k8iqy"
wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> I've changed the signup procedure for the 2N2-40 group so that you now
> have to be approved by me. I'm not trying to keep out any of the
> ligitimate users, but those who will take advantage of an "open" group
> to promote their own agenda. That's already happened on the SMT
> Traders group, and I'm trying to nip it in the bud, before it happens
> here. Hope everyone understands. We just don't need any of that crap!!
>
> 72 and kind regards,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
subriaus wrote:
> Hi Jim
>
> I have noticed a lack of msg on this group so am I excluded from this
> group with the new procedure thats in force ?. In any case I´d like to
> get on the list again.
>
> By the way my 2N2/20 is up running and just for fun I used it in the
> Asian Cw contest this weekend and run some fine QSO´s including
> some UA0 and JA´s with my 2 watts !! It´s got a terrific receiver
> equal to my TS-850. Congrats on the design..
>
> 72/ Frank/SM5QU
>
Greetings Frank,
There hasn't been much activity on the 2n2-40 group of late, but I
received your email via that group so you must still be subscribed OK.
Great to hear that your 2N2/20 is working so well and that you like the
receiver. I thought is was quite good after my rigorous testing. Getting
nice reports from builders confirms that! :-)
Good to hear from you, and if you are not subscribed to the list, I'll
add your name back in.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
All the talk abt changes got me concerned....
OK, back to my cave.....
Jim WD4OJY
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.comJames McKinley wrote:
> All the talk abt changes got me concerned....
>
> OK, back to my cave.....
>
> Jim WD4OJY
Nothing to worry about Jim. I just changed the sign up procedure so
that nasty folks and robots can't take over the list.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I, through the kindness of one of the Flying Pigs, was able to pick-up
an unassembled kit of parts from the FP 2n2-40+ build. I've added a few
other pieces (the circuitboard, coil wire, odds and ends) but never got
beyond the first stage. I've got what is, so far as I know, a complete
kit of parts as well as documentation from the FP build and Paul
Harden's, NA5N, great step-by-step construction guide.
I read somewhere that if you can build the first section, the RX/TX
Driver, you won't have any trouble with the rest of the rig. Well,
guess what. I couldn't. I think it's time to admit I'm not up to it and
give somebody else a chance.
I'd like to offer it here at $90.00 for the whole shooting match. I'll
pay postage. I prefer PayPal for payment. Please contact me if you're
interested.
Kip Williams W6KIP
San Diego CA
|
3422|3421|2006-07-04 16:04:05|Michael Harnage|Re: 2n2-40 Parts Kit For Sale|Hi Kip! Long time no hear. Ever get that ATS2 back on
teh air? Hope so. I have since built 2 more ATS3's and
1 ATS3A and 1 ATS2. Have sold all except my original
ATS3 and a new ATS3A. Gonna try concentrating on
operating for a while and get my cw skills up a
little.
Hope everything is going OK otherwise. Talk to ya
later.
-mike/w1mt
--- Kip Williams <
w6kip@kipwilliams.com> wrote:
> I, through the kindness of one of the Flying Pigs,
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.comHey Mike! Nice to hear from you. The ATS is working FB. In fact, I've been
doing so little with ham radio (got to admit, the bottom part of the solar
cycle, my lousy qth and qrp have pretty much taken a lot of the fun out of
radio for me.) The last time I was on the air, I hauled the ATS down to the
bay and threw a end-fed halfwave up. I sat there for about 3 hours and
worked 3 stations - not the ATS2's fault.
I've been following the ATS3A talk. You'll have to let me know what you
think of it. And what about the ATS4? Is Steve putting that together.
Good luck with the CW. I've been doing nothing but straight key and it gives
me a little bit of an excuse to stay around 15 wpm - which seems to be about
where I'm comfortable. I switched the Ten-Tec on for about 3 minutes during
Field Day - put my call out to a guy and never caught anything past W of
what he replied. I just turned it off and went to a barbeque.
Hope everything is going well.
72
Kip W6KIP
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3424|3424|2006-07-06 19:53:20|Kip Williams W6KIP|2n2-40+ Parts Kit Is Sold|Thank you to everyone who expressed interest. I wish I'd been able to build
it. I know its going to be a great radio when it is complete.
73
Kip Williams W6KIP
|
3425|3425|2006-07-11 13:39:20|sigcom@juno.com|Fw: [QRP-L] FS: 2N4401 Transistors|I thought this sounded like a real good deal on 4401s so I'm passing
it along to the group.
Usual disclaimers apply :-)
73.......Steve Smith WB6TNL
---------- Forwarded Message ----------
Hi Gents,
I have a surplus of 2n4401's for sale! Those are NPN's,
similar to 2n3904 but more robust. Excellent amplifier
and switch. Good to have these in your supply cabinet!
Bag of 100, standard TO92 case for $6 postpaid
to any USA Zip code. Many bags available.
PayPal, personal checks, M/O's accepted. Contact me off list
if interested or just use the PP ID of "n0tt @juno.com" (without
the space).
73,
Charlie, N0TT
|
3426|3426|2006-07-15 22:38:52|Gene N0MQ|Re: Parts for 2n2/40+|Couple of us are just getting started on building the 2n2/40+. We
would like to buy some parts if anyone got more then they needed.
Mainly caps and MVAM109 andMV1662. But any parts that you want to get
rid of for the build. Thanks.
73
Gene N0MQ
|
3427|3427|2006-07-24 01:01:07|Jim Pruitt|QRP-L.com Forum|Diz asked me to spread around the word about his new forums at
http://qrp-l.com/forum/ . The forums are for technical topics only. It is
forum style so not a mailing list. It is also not associated with the qrp-l
mailing reflector that many of us are also on. It does require registering.
Current topics are:
General Info about qrp-l.com
AVR-DEV
MEGAPIG (latest project Diz is working on)
Micropig
Multipig+
and
For Sale by Owner.
As you can see, most of the focus is QRP.
I know that some of you had said that you actually prefer the forum style
but others prefer email. Again qrp-l.com is a forum not a mailing list
Right now membership is at 11 but growing.
I hope that you find this information useful.
Thank you.
Jim Pruitt
I don't think this has been mentioned here as far as I can tell.
Jim K8IQY has added information on the original 2n2-40 rig to his
website for everyone to view.
http://www.k8iqy.com <
http://www.k8iqy.com>
thanks jim,
al ve3gam
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I noticed that Jim mentioned in his description of the original 2N2-40
(on his website) that there was a comprehensive article about it in
QRPp. Does anyone have a copy of this article that I might get a copy
of? (does anyone read this newsgroup anymore? (;-) )
Thanks
Archie (KX5X)
|
3430|3429|2006-07-30 11:57:41|Mac - AF4PS|Re: Original 2N2-40 article in QRPp|That is a great article - just make sure you get the corrections that
appeared in the next issue. I think I have the article with the corrections
as an addendum somewhere, but it will not be an easy find. Honestly, if you
utilize the website and read over the archives, you will be fine. Ask
questions here and Jim himself, along with others, will be HAPPY to help. I
loved this project.
-MAC-
AF4PS
_____
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Archie Lamb
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 10:32 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Original 2N2-40 article in QRPp
I noticed that Jim mentioned in his description of the original 2N2-40
(on his website) that there was a comprehensive article about it in
QRPp. Does anyone have a copy of this article that I might get a copy
of? (does anyone read this newsgroup anymore? (;-) )
Thanks
Archie (KX5X)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Archie,
I built this project and looked at the original 2N2-40 but decided
that the 2N2-40+ was a better way to go, you might consider the newer
plan as well. You can see my "blow-by-blow" build at:
http://www.wb6kwt.com/2n22.htm By-the-way, my website was referenced in the August 2006 QST page 53,
left hand column, near the bottom. Nice to know others think it was
worthwhile....cool!!
Bob
WB6KWT
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Archie Lamb" wrote:
>
> I noticed that Jim mentioned in his description of the original 2N2-40
> (on his website) that there was a comprehensive article about it in
> QRPp. Does anyone have a copy of this article that I might get a copy
> of? (does anyone read this newsgroup anymore? (;-) )
>
> Thanks
> Archie (KX5X)
>
Archie Lamb wrote:
> I noticed that Jim mentioned in his description of the original 2N2-40
> (on his website) that there was a comprehensive article about it in
> QRPp. Does anyone have a copy of this article that I might get a copy
> of? (does anyone read this newsgroup anymore? (;-) )
>
> Thanks
> Archie (KX5X)
Archie,
As best as I know, Paul, NA5N still has reprints of the original QRPp article
available. Contact him via his callbook address. It may take a while for him to
respond. He is one busy fella!
Also, Paul and I have chatted in the past about putting that article up on the
web. Maybe it is time to take that step. It would probably be a .pdf document
that could be downloaded. Since there are lots of graphics in the article, it
would take a long time to load as web pages. It will take a long time as a .pdf
file too, but you would know ahead of time how large the file is.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi everyone (still reading this newsgroup)!
I made a request for assistance in getting a copy of the original
article that appeared in QRPp. Thanks to everyone who replied!
As a result of that request, I had a conversation with Jim K8IQY and
as a result of that conversation I promised to let everyone know how
it is / was going on that build. I put up one of those free websites
predominately about my Ham station. There is a page regarding the
2N2-40 build. It is taking quite a bit of time to do so but I do have
some of it there now. If you are interested check out:
http://www.geocities.com/ars_kx5x Otherwise I'll briefly summarize my progress here as:
- I'm having a great deal of fun and learning a lot.
- I am taking liberties with the design, some for no good reason.
- I have the RX portion built (in modules) and am procedeing with the
TX part.
For several reasons, I will probably make the most deavation from the
original with the transmitter - I don't have the heatsinks and I would
like to look into an IRF510 final.
I hope no one considers this Heresy or an insult to Jim - I believe
the design is truely a classic. Maybe my version of this rig should be
reasonably considered a poor approximation. The old saying that
"emulation is the sincerest form of flattery!" is very true here.
I have most (but not all) of my work previewed on the website and will
continue to add as time and energy permits.
72/73 Art (KX5X)
Just thought I'd let the group know that a buddy (K9QB) and I are
getting parts together to build a couple 2n2/20's. This looks like it
will be a fun build.
I presume that when (not IF) we get stuck on something, you gurus will
be around to bail us out.
Thanks
Brad Smith
WA5PSA
Tulsa, OK
|
3435|3434|2006-08-28 19:37:23|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2/20 build|redbudpub wrote:
> Just thought I'd let the group know that a buddy (K9QB) and I are
> getting parts together to build a couple 2n2/20's. This looks like it
> will be a fun build.
>
> I presume that when (not IF) we get stuck on something, you gurus will
> be around to bail us out.
>
> Thanks
>
> Brad Smith
> WA5PSA
> Tulsa, OK
>
Brad,
I'll be here!
72 and have fun with the 2N2/20 builds.
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Brad.
You and your buddy are going to absolutely LOVE the 2N2/20. I built
one several months ago, and have used it just about every day since
then. I even took it to Florida with me this summer and operated QRP
mobile with a shortened 20 meter dipole on a photography light stand.
It worked very FB.
Good luck and I want to see pictures! :-)
72,
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "redbudpub" wrote:
>
> Just thought I'd let the group know that a buddy (K9QB) and I are
> getting parts together to build a couple 2n2/20's. This looks like it
> will be a fun build.
>
> I presume that when (not IF) we get stuck on something, you gurus will
> be around to bail us out.
>
> Thanks
>
> Brad Smith
> WA5PSA
> Tulsa, OK
>
2n2/40
Anyone out there with a matched set of crystals they are
not planning on using? Thanks for any help.
dave /nt1u
|
3438|3437|2006-09-03 13:30:38|Howard Kraus|Re: crystals|Jim (K8IQY) MIGHT still have some. Worth asking if
you haven't already.
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- dave <
nt1u@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> 2n2/40
> Anyone out there with a matched set of crystals
> they are
> not planning on using? Thanks for any help.
> dave /nt1u
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.comdave wrote:
> 2n2/40
> Anyone out there with a matched set of crystals they are
> not planning on using? Thanks for any help.
> dave /nt1u
Dave,
Did you find a set? If not, I can put one together for you.
Let me know!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
>
>
>
> dave wrote:
> > 2n2/40
> > Anyone out there with a matched set of crystals they are
> > not planning on using? Thanks for any help.
> > dave /nt1u
>
> Dave,
>
> Did you find a set? If not, I can put one together for you.
>
> Let me know!
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
No joy yet.
On the other hand...Mouser has 4.915Mhz 20ppm crystals for
.35/ea in lots of 25. I assume 20ppm translates to 20hz
for a 4.9mz crystal, and that if I bought 25 I would get
at least 3 that were close enough for the cohn filter.
What do you think?
Thanks for the offer, by the way.
/dave nt1uGuys
I have a whole spool of HC49 crystals marked:
NDK
4.9152
9113
I got these from a surplus sale and I have them on my website at 10 for
$2.00
If you want 100 of them I'll let you have them for $20 and I'll pay the
shipping.
I have maybe 700 pcs left.
http://www.hamradparts.com 73
----- Original Message -----
From: "dave" <nt1u@hotmail.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 6:38 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: crystals
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> dave wrote:
>> > 2n2/40
>> > Anyone out there with a matched set of crystals they are
>> > not planning on using? Thanks for any help.
>> > dave /nt1u
>>
>> Dave,
>>
>> Did you find a set? If not, I can put one together for you.
>>
>> Let me know!
>>
>> 72,
>>
>> Jim, K8IQY
>>
>
>
> No joy yet.
>
> On the other hand...Mouser has 4.915Mhz 20ppm crystals for
> .35/ea in lots of 25. I assume 20ppm translates to 20hz
> for a 4.9mz crystal, and that if I bought 25 I would get
> at least 3 that were close enough for the cohn filter.
>
> What do you think?
>
> Thanks for the offer, by the way.
> /dave nt1u
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
dave wrote:
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>dave wrote:
>>
>>> 2n2/40
>>> Anyone out there with a matched set of crystals they are
>>> not planning on using? Thanks for any help.
>>> dave /nt1u
>>
>>Dave,
>>
>>Did you find a set? If not, I can put one together for you.
>>
>>Let me know!
>>
>>72,
>>
>>Jim, K8IQY
>>
>
>
>
> No joy yet.
>
> On the other hand...Mouser has 4.915Mhz 20ppm crystals for
> .35/ea in lots of 25. I assume 20ppm translates to 20hz
> for a 4.9mz crystal, and that if I bought 25 I would get
> at least 3 that were close enough for the cohn filter.
>
> What do you think?
>
> Thanks for the offer, by the way.
> /dave nt1u
>
Dave,
If you buy 25 units, you'll have enough stock to make several 3-pole filters
that are really well matched. Plus...you will learn a bit about crystal matching
and have fun doing it.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
On the theme of crystal filters, a question for Jim Kortge -
I purchased a set of crystals from you several years ago and the filter
devices were all marked 173 ( or 175 ? its smudged now ) by hand on the
crystals. What portion of the frequency did that represent, i.e how low
do you go when sorting them ?
John Mc Donough
KC2IGJ
|
3444|3443|2006-09-12 09:54:15|Jim Kortge|Re: numbers hand-written on crystals|Hi John,
kc2igj wrote:
> On the theme of crystal filters, a question for Jim Kortge -
> I purchased a set of crystals from you several years ago and the filter
> devices were all marked 173 ( or 175 ? its smudged now ) by hand on the
> crystals. What portion of the frequency did that represent, i.e how low
> do you go when sorting them ?
Down to 1 Hz. Those marking represent the last 3 digits of the resonant
frequency of each crystal while being driven from a precision generator. If they
were all 173 or 175, they were all resonant on exactly the same frequency. You
can't do any better in matching than that! Time to build a rig with them. :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
..time to build a rig with them..
Yes indeed. I have the makings of the receiver section underway - I have
built out to the product detector and hope toi have a completed receiver
soon.
John
KC2IGJ
|
3446|3443|2006-09-12 17:52:02|Jim Kortge|Re: numbers hand-written on crystals|John Mc Donough wrote:
> ..time to build a rig with them..
> Yes indeed. I have the makings of the receiver section underway - I have
> built out to the product detector and hope toi have a completed receiver
> soon.
>
> John
> KC2IGJ
>
There you go John. I like that answer! :-)
Thanks for the update and happy building; please keep the list posted on your
progress.
72 and thanks,
Jim, K8IQY
Gang,
Jim offered to check out the crystals I have for sale on my website
http://www.hamradparts.com They are the 4.915 Mhz HC49's
Here are the results from Jim. Based on this, they're 10 for a buck fifty,
I pay shipping.
Got the crystal sample yesterday and measured them for you. Here are the
results.
Fs = 4.913621 MHz
Rs = 24.4 Ohms
Co = 3.58 pF
Lm = 0.0651 Henry
Cm = 1.613E-14 Farad
Q = 83.8 K
From the data there are a couple of interesting observations. First, these
crystals would normally be run in a circuit with about 20 pF in series with
the
crystal to get it on the "case marked" frequency. Crystals like these would
be
shown in the Mouser catalog with a "-20" or similar suffix denoting they
need
the series capacitor oscillate on the case marked frequency.
The 6 samples that you send are very close to the same frequency. One could
probably make very good 4-6 pole filters for either SSB or CW without any
frequency matching. That's the good news, the bad part is that the Rs values
are
quite diverse, running at least 2:1 in value and consequently Q. The best
unit
was at 16.3 Ohms and the worst at 34.2 Ohms. If one were to make a good
filter
from these crystals, each one should be driven with a precision generator,
the
resonance peak found, and the Rs value determined. All of those above the
average should be culled out for LO service so as to not make the insertion
loss
of the filter too high.
My recommendation would be to sell them in lots of 10 minimum and make sure
that
the buyer knows that some of the units have high Rs values and that some
sorting
would produce a better filter.
Gentlemen,
Hello.
My name is Aaron and I recently was registered in this group, and I
am attempting a K8iQY 2N2/20 build.
I was reading through the countless posts and already have learned
much here about the 2N series. Anyway I was hoping some one could
point me in the right direction as I completed my VFO section while
I was waiting on the remaining toroid shipment.
I would like to test the VFO, and read here that it must be loaded
or terminated properly to test it. Any ideas on how to load it for
testing?
I put a freq counter across either output winding and ground and was
reading approx 1.X Mhz (Target 3.0 - 3.1 Mhz). The main tuning pot
rubbers the freq - but maybe 5 khz. Also for alignment Jim had said
the VFO trimmer sets the low side of the band, but I have 2 trimmers
on the VFO. I would GUESS that TC4 would set the low side of the
band and that TC5 would be tuned for max VFO volts output?
As it is TC5 adjusts the frequency considerably while TC4 does
nothing to freq. Also IMO Q5 is hot. I'm not thinking VFO components
should get hot :( This is probably bad news.
I substituted all 2N2222A's for the vanilla 2N2222's at Mouser as it
read to me they were obolete - hopefully this is not the problem?
I have compared my VFO layout against the print hoping to find
an "Oops", but I think its correct.
Trying to not get wrapped around a fence pole about it yet though
until I know a proper procedure to Op's check this little percolator.
Any ideas or info would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Aaron
|
3450|3448|2006-09-18 16:58:17|k9qb|Re: 2N2-20 Questions|The thing that immediately comes to my mind is, are you absolutely
sure you got the transistor leads to the correct locations?
If you swapped the base and collector leads, you'd see a steady 40ma
current through the 270 ohm resistor...the transistor would get very
warm and the resistor would get hot.
Check the voltage across the 270 ohm resistor, if it's over 10vdc,
that's probably what you did...
That's one of my favorite screw-ups when I swap a metal can
transistor into a place where a plastic one was supposed to go!
Mike, K9QB
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "n9skn" wrote:
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> Hello.
>
> My name is Aaron and I recently was registered in this group, and
I
> am attempting a K8iQY 2N2/20 build.
>
> I was reading through the countless posts and already have learned
> much here about the 2N series. Anyway I was hoping some one could
> point me in the right direction as I completed my VFO section
while
> I was waiting on the remaining toroid shipment.
> I would like to test the VFO, and read here that it must be loaded
> or terminated properly to test it. Any ideas on how to load it for
> testing?
> I put a freq counter across either output winding and ground and
was
> reading approx 1.X Mhz (Target 3.0 - 3.1 Mhz). The main tuning pot
> rubbers the freq - but maybe 5 khz. Also for alignment Jim had
said
> the VFO trimmer sets the low side of the band, but I have 2
trimmers
> on the VFO. I would GUESS that TC4 would set the low side of the
> band and that TC5 would be tuned for max VFO volts output?
>
> As it is TC5 adjusts the frequency considerably while TC4 does
> nothing to freq. Also IMO Q5 is hot. I'm not thinking VFO
components
> should get hot :( This is probably bad news.
>
> I substituted all 2N2222A's for the vanilla 2N2222's at Mouser as
it
> read to me they were obolete - hopefully this is not the problem?
>
> I have compared my VFO layout against the print hoping to find
> an "Oops", but I think its correct.
>
> Trying to not get wrapped around a fence pole about it yet though
> until I know a proper procedure to Op's check this little
percolator.
>
> Any ideas or info would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Aaron
>
n9skn wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> Hello.
>
> My name is Aaron and I recently was registered in this group, and I
> am attempting a K8iQY 2N2/20 build.
>
> I was reading through the countless posts and already have learned
> much here about the 2N series. Anyway I was hoping some one could
> point me in the right direction as I completed my VFO section while
> I was waiting on the remaining toroid shipment.
> I would like to test the VFO, and read here that it must be loaded
> or terminated properly to test it. Any ideas on how to load it for
> testing?
Yes. Connect a 51 Ohm carbon or metal film resistor from the 3-turn secondary of
T2 to ground and measure the output voltage on the "hot" end of that resistor.
If you don't have a 51 Ohm unit, use 47 Ohms.
> I put a freq counter across either output winding and ground and was
> reading approx 1.X Mhz (Target 3.0 - 3.1 Mhz). The main tuning pot
> rubbers the freq - but maybe 5 khz. Also for alignment Jim had said
> the VFO trimmer sets the low side of the band, but I have 2 trimmers
> on the VFO. I would GUESS that TC4 would set the low side of the
> band and that TC5 would be tuned for max VFO volts output?
That's correct. TC4 sets the VFO lower frequency, and TC5 tunes the primary of
T5 to resonance at 3+ MHz. If you are really only getting 1.X MHz output,
something is terribly wrong. Check the values of C13 and C17 to make sure they
are 180 pF and 100 pF respectively. Also make sure that you have the anode of D9
connected to ground, not the other way around. The varicap diode needs to be
reversed biased in order to have significant capacitance change.
>
> As it is TC5 adjusts the frequency considerably while TC4 does
> nothing to freq.
That's not right. TC5 should not have a great influence on frequency, but TC4
should.
Also IMO Q5 is hot. I'm not thinking VFO components
> should get hot :( This is probably bad news.
Q5 should be just barely warm to the touch, not hot. And, if you measure the
voltage drop across R19 when the rig is powered from a 12 volt source, you
should see about 1.6 volts across it. That's 16 ma of average current flowing in
Q5. Q5 dissipates roughly 150 milliwatts.
>
> I substituted all 2N2222A's for the vanilla 2N2222's at Mouser as it
> read to me they were obolete - hopefully this is not the problem?
No, those should be fine, but actually overkill. The plastic PN2222 units would
have been fine. Make sure when you wire in the 2N2222A units that you have the
base, emitter, and collector leads correctly identified. Download a data sheet
if you are not sure.
>
> I have compared my VFO layout against the print hoping to find
> an "Oops", but I think its correct.
Probably not or it would be working. If you can send me a digital photo of what
you've built, maybe I can see something amiss. 1024X768 pixel is plenty big
enough. I'm still on dialup.
>
> Trying to not get wrapped around a fence pole about it yet though
> until I know a proper procedure to Op's check this little percolator.
>
> Any ideas or info would be appreciated.
See above Aaron.
72 and keep us posted,
Jim, K8IQY
k9qb wrote:
> The thing that immediately comes to my mind is, are you absolutely
> sure you got the transistor leads to the correct locations?
>
> If you swapped the base and collector leads, you'd see a steady 40ma
> current through the 270 ohm resistor...the transistor would get very
> warm and the resistor would get hot.
>
> Check the voltage across the 270 ohm resistor, if it's over 10vdc,
> that's probably what you did...
The voltage drop across R11, the 270 Ohm resistor in the voltage regulator
circuitry should be nominally 5 volts.
>
> That's one of my favorite screw-ups when I swap a metal can
> transistor into a place where a plastic one was supposed to go!
That can certainly happen. I've done it a few time myself! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks for all that helpful info Mike, and of course Jim.
There are a alot of good points there in your responses for me to
check again - and how to properly check it for sure now.
I will let you guys know how it goes on further inspection, and thanks
for the offer to trace it out with a photo, Jim, but I wouldn't do
that to ya. Not yet anyway :)
Aaron
|
3454|3448|2006-09-19 17:13:18|n9skn|Re: 2N2-20 Questions|2N2/20 Questions Update
Well, I think I must have been a little too tired when I first op's
checked the VFO then guys.
I went back to testing it today after reading those responses -
ready to pull components as neccesary.
I think its working better now - but I have done nothing to it, lol.
Maybe a cutoff was lying in there somewhere.
- VFO powered at 12V.
- Output of 3 turn tap of VFO T2 terminated with 51 ohm film
resistor to ground = .289-.617V measured with RF probe from ARRL
Handbook into a Fluke VOM on DC volts. This voltage was adjustable
using TC5. Adjusting TC5 had only 2 Khz total delta on freq.
- DC volts across R19 of Q5 = 1.685V. Q5 remains "Hot" but I can
keep my finger on it :) A double check of Q5 installation appears OK
to me. Yes I have the datasheets for the mixers and Q's. Would it be
acceptable to put a small heatsink on it?
- TC4 now adjusts the freq of the unit. With TC4 tuned for min. the
tuning range is 2.777 Mhz - 2.862Mhz. With TC4 tuned for max. the
tuning range is 2.927Mhz - 3.026 Mhz.
So I guess I botched my first VFO test procedure and am sorry for
the alarming post, but very grateful for the help. It remains that I
will need to somehow increase the freq range approx 75-100Khz to get
me in the ballpark though. I wound L5 with #28 wire. Should I remove
a few turns to increase the freq?
NOTE: "Parts with VFO" are built and connected on the VFO board.
However "Parts with Pot" are not built yet or connected to VFO. I
don't think this would matter, but am stating it in case it does
matter.
Oh yea, the only data sheets I could NOT find were the two varactor
ones for pinout. I installed both varactors thinking they were
capacitors and not diodes, duh :( After reading those helpful
responses to my post, I realized my mistake there and thought for
sure that one or both would be on the board wrong. I figured out
anode and cathode with a meter then proceeded to the board to check,
but low and behold they were both installed the right way.
Should have bought a lottery ticket that day.
Regards,
Aaron
|
3455|3448|2006-09-20 08:47:29|dek8gd|Re: 2N2-20 Questions|Hi Aaron.
It's good to see that you have it working.
One thing that may explain some of the "mystery fix" is that if you
didn't have the VFO output terminated in 50 ohms, it is quite possible
that the amplifier stage went into oscillation which will cause all
kinds of problems, including a lot of the ones you described
previously. It must be terminated in 50 ohms for it to work
correctly. My guess is that is what was happening.
On to the next stage! Let us know how you are progressing.
72,
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "n9skn" wrote:
>
> 2N2/20 Questions Update
>
> Well, I think I must have been a little too tired when I first op's
> checked the VFO then guys.
>
> I went back to testing it today after reading those responses -
> ready to pull components as neccesary.
>
> I think its working better now - but I have done nothing to it, lol.
> Maybe a cutoff was lying in there somewhere.
>
> - VFO powered at 12V.
>
> - Output of 3 turn tap of VFO T2 terminated with 51 ohm film
> resistor to ground = .289-.617V measured with RF probe from ARRL
> Handbook into a Fluke VOM on DC volts. This voltage was adjustable
> using TC5. Adjusting TC5 had only 2 Khz total delta on freq.
>
> - DC volts across R19 of Q5 = 1.685V. Q5 remains "Hot" but I can
> keep my finger on it :) A double check of Q5 installation appears OK
> to me. Yes I have the datasheets for the mixers and Q's. Would it be
> acceptable to put a small heatsink on it?
>
> - TC4 now adjusts the freq of the unit. With TC4 tuned for min. the
> tuning range is 2.777 Mhz - 2.862Mhz. With TC4 tuned for max. the
> tuning range is 2.927Mhz - 3.026 Mhz.
>
> So I guess I botched my first VFO test procedure and am sorry for
> the alarming post, but very grateful for the help. It remains that I
> will need to somehow increase the freq range approx 75-100Khz to get
> me in the ballpark though. I wound L5 with #28 wire. Should I remove
> a few turns to increase the freq?
>
> NOTE: "Parts with VFO" are built and connected on the VFO board.
> However "Parts with Pot" are not built yet or connected to VFO. I
> don't think this would matter, but am stating it in case it does
> matter.
>
> Oh yea, the only data sheets I could NOT find were the two varactor
> ones for pinout. I installed both varactors thinking they were
> capacitors and not diodes, duh :( After reading those helpful
> responses to my post, I realized my mistake there and thought for
> sure that one or both would be on the board wrong. I figured out
> anode and cathode with a meter then proceeded to the board to check,
> but low and behold they were both installed the right way.
>
> Should have bought a lottery ticket that day.
>
> Regards,
>
> Aaron
>
Gents,
just wanted to post a couple of points after several recent emails
with Jim, and much progress on the 2N2-20 VFO problem since my last
post - as I have not wanted to clog up these boards with a lot of
daily questions. However I think I need to share these two points.
1) Jim is as dedicated at getting this rig running as I am.
2) I had used 2N2222A's at Q3, Q4, and Q5 positions on the VFO.
Despite my last encouraging post - I later found that I still
sometimes had parasitic oscillations occurring depending on if the
RF voltage output of 3 turn winding of T2 was adjusted in the
highest part of its output range using TC5. I am reporting that I
have replaced these 3 Q's with inexpensive "2N2222 Type" Q's from
Radio Shack as per Jim having on his print all along. Like I said in
the email to him, "I can't get it to NOT work now".
It has a perfect 100 Khz tuning range (Now adjustable to the right
range), starts every time, and no heat issues at all after prolonged
testing.
My VFO parasitic osc. problem may have had more to do with my VFO
component board layout, but removing the 3 2N2222A's has made all
the difference here.
Hats of to K8iQY for his support. My sincerst thanks.
... now on with the rest of the 2N2-20,
Aaron
|
3457|3456|2006-09-22 14:31:23|Lee Mairs (SAG)|Re: 2N2-20 VFO Update|AAron -
Are you absolutely sure that the 2N2222As you were using were connected
correctly? As memory serves, I believe that the pin connections are NOT
the same as other 2N2222s.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
n9skn wrote:
> Gents,
>
> just wanted to post a couple of points after several recent emails
> with Jim, and much progress on the 2N2-20 VFO problem since my last
> post - as I have not wanted to clog up these boards with a lot of
> daily questions. However I think I need to share these two points.
>
> 1) Jim is as dedicated at getting this rig running as I am.
>
> 2) I had used 2N2222A's at Q3, Q4, and Q5 positions on the VFO.
> Despite my last encouraging post - I later found that I still
> sometimes had parasitic oscillations occurring depending on if the
> RF voltage output of 3 turn winding of T2 was adjusted in the
> highest part of its output range using TC5. I am reporting that I
> have replaced these 3 Q's with inexpensive "2N2222 Type" Q's from
> Radio Shack as per Jim having on his print all along. Like I said in
> the email to him, "I can't get it to NOT work now".
>
> It has a perfect 100 Khz tuning range (Now adjustable to the right
> range), starts every time, and no heat issues at all after prolonged
> testing.
>
> My VFO parasitic osc. problem may have had more to do with my VFO
> component board layout, but removing the 3 2N2222A's has made all
> the difference here.
>
> Hats of to K8iQY for his support. My sincerst thanks.
>
> ... now on with the rest of the 2N2-20,
>
> Aaron
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
I have continued building. Finishing the RX RF Amp, RX mixer, Post
Mixer Amp, Main and Roofing Xtal Filters, Rx LO and Product Detector.
Powering up the IF and RX LO for testing was smooth for the RX LO,
but bad for the IF. I was immediately greeted with that terrible
burning smell when I flipped on the 12V.
I found that Q8 (MPSH10) was crazy hot in just a few seconds.
So after reviewing my IF components layout I thought I would try and
locate a replacement MPSH10 locally - but could only come up with I
thought a NTE229 for a temp fix. While looking over the NTE229
datasheet, I noticed that the base and collector are swapped
compared to the Micro Commercial Components data sheet that I
referenced for the MPSH10 during construction. This was my problem I
think.
Well I am fortunate to have a Fry's Electronics STORE nearby that
carries enough NTE componets to fill my house, but unfortunately
they are out of the NTE229's!
OK so when I saw that Jim wrote he could receive signals at this
point, I set up the LO at 10.993 Mhz for a 700 Hz below the main
filter center pass freq. (I hope this is correct.)
Then I removed and reinstalled Q9 (MPSH10) per the NTE drawing
(Swapping base and collectors) and threw in a "2N2222 Type" at Q8
since the old MPSH10 was fried.
I hooked up a amplified speaker (I think a LM380 or LM386 circuit
inside) to the product detector output).
Then tweaked the peaking TC at the RX input listening to a RF signal
generator signal at the center of my target tuning range (14.075),
then moved on to adjust the 2 TC's on the input filter the same way.
I proceeded to adjust TC6 for max RF voltage using the homebrew RF
probe from an older ARRL handbook (It says it is + or - 10% on the
voltage, but I don't know if its RMS or P to P)
So after hooking up a antenna with my ear on the speaker I tuned
across the range and listened to several of the familar sounding
static crashes even some "Partial signal" phone talk. Eventually I
came across several CW calls and QSO's.
The reward was achieved.
I plan on ordering replacement MPSH10's as there is nothing local
here, because I know it does not have the gain it should right now -
but hopefully it will soon.
On to audio.
Aaron out
|
3459|3458|2006-09-28 14:43:54|Jim Kortge|Re: N9SKN - A 2N2/20 Update|n9skn wrote:
> I have continued building. Finishing the RX RF Amp, RX mixer, Post
> Mixer Amp, Main and Roofing Xtal Filters, Rx LO and Product Detector.
Most of the receiver!! Great.....
>
> Powering up the IF and RX LO for testing was smooth for the RX LO,
> but bad for the IF. I was immediately greeted with that terrible
> burning smell when I flipped on the 12V.
> I found that Q8 (MPSH10) was crazy hot in just a few seconds.
> So after reviewing my IF components layout I thought I would try and
> locate a replacement MPSH10 locally - but could only come up with I
> thought a NTE229 for a temp fix. While looking over the NTE229
> datasheet, I noticed that the base and collector are swapped
> compared to the Micro Commercial Components data sheet that I
> referenced for the MPSH10 during construction. This was my problem I
> think.
On most MPSH10 transistors, the base is the left lead, the emitter the center
lead, and the collector the right lead, with the leads pointing down and the
flat face of the transistor looking at you. They are not the same pin out as a
PN2222.
> Well I am fortunate to have a Fry's Electronics STORE nearby that
> carries enough NTE componets to fill my house, but unfortunately
> they are out of the NTE229's!
Do they have any BF199 transistors? Those would probably work ok. Same pin out
as a PN2222 if I remember correctly, but don't take my word for it. Get a
Fairchild data sheet for that part. Same for the MPSH10 part. Both are made by
Fairchild, as well as others.
> OK so when I saw that Jim wrote he could receive signals at this
> point, I set up the LO at 10.993 Mhz for a 700 Hz below the main
> filter center pass freq. (I hope this is correct.)
Almost. The center of the 11 MHz filter is actually at about 11.004 MHz, since
the frequency of the filter is higher than the marked crystal frequency. That's
due to the coupling capacitors that make the crystals into a filter. I think
there is a spectrum analyzer plot in the .pdf file on the rig on my web site.
So....you want the LO to be about 700 Hz below 11.004 MHz give or take a little
depending on where the center of your filter actually is.
> Then I removed and reinstalled Q9 (MPSH10) per the NTE drawing
> (Swapping base and collectors) and threw in a "2N2222 Type" at Q8
> since the old MPSH10 was fried.
> I hooked up a amplified speaker (I think a LM380 or LM386 circuit
> inside) to the product detector output).
> Then tweaked the peaking TC at the RX input listening to a RF signal
> generator signal at the center of my target tuning range (14.075),
> then moved on to adjust the 2 TC's on the input filter the same way.
> I proceeded to adjust TC6 for max RF voltage using the homebrew RF
> probe from an older ARRL handbook (It says it is + or - 10% on the
> voltage, but I don't know if its RMS or P to P)
The RF probe is probably closer to Peak voltage than RMS. Did you peak TC5 also,
so that the mixer had maximum LO drive?
>
> So after hooking up a antenna with my ear on the speaker I tuned
> across the range and listened to several of the familar sounding
> static crashes even some "Partial signal" phone talk. Eventually I
> came across several CW calls and QSO's.
> The reward was achieved.
I'm assuming that as soon as you hooked up the antenna, you could hear band
noise. Hearing signals is always a very good sign! :-)
>
> I plan on ordering replacement MPSH10's as there is nothing local
> here, because I know it does not have the gain it should right now -
> but hopefully it will soon.
See comment above about BF199. I haven't tried them, but they ought to work much
better than PN2222 devices as they have an Ft of about 600+ MHz.
>
> On to audio.
Yea.... And then you'll have a completed receiver. The audio stuff goes really
fast.
Thanks for the update Aaron. It sure has me excited.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for the update Aaron. It sure has me excited.
>
Yea Jim I needed that little boost of hearing first signals :)
Its bigger than you think - as I have never been on another band
besides 40M until that time.
The replacement MPSH10's came in and are installed OK per the
FAIRCHILD and NTE datasheets this time - actually heard a pile up I
think on the thing this time.
I am shopping for a digital display and am considering the one I see
in your pictures or the Norcal FCC-1. I have looked at others but am
leaning towrds one of these units right now. Get one coming, then on
to the transmitter stuff.
I don't want to run out of parts when I am off work next week...
that would be my worst nightmare :)
Regards,
AaronOne thing to consider is the crystal freq used as the clock in the
Digital Display. I have had a lot of problem with the FCC-1 with a
radio that had a 12Mhz IF. The FCC-1 uses a 4Mhz clock and the 3rd
harmonic is 12Mhz and it was getting into my receiver too much.
Steve NU0P
n9skn wrote:
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the update Aaron. It sure has me excited.
>>
>
> Yea Jim I needed that little boost of hearing first signals :)
> Its bigger than you think - as I have never been on another band
> besides 40M until that time.
>
> The replacement MPSH10's came in and are installed OK per the
> FAIRCHILD and NTE datasheets this time - actually heard a pile up I
> think on the thing this time.
>
> I am shopping for a digital display and am considering the one I see
> in your pictures or the Norcal FCC-1. I have looked at others but am
> leaning towrds one of these units right now. Get one coming, then on
> to the transmitter stuff.
> I don't want to run out of parts when I am off work next week...
> that would be my worst nightmare :)
>
> Regards,
> Aaron
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
n9skn wrote:
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>>
>>Thanks for the update Aaron. It sure has me excited.
>>
>
>
> Yea Jim I needed that little boost of hearing first signals :)
> Its bigger than you think - as I have never been on another band
> besides 40M until that time.
You may not like 20 meters all that much. I find that I listen to 40 or 30 much
more than 20, but it sure is a nice band for working DX.
>
> The replacement MPSH10's came in and are installed OK per the
> FAIRCHILD and NTE datasheets this time - actually heard a pile up I
> think on the thing this time.
Good on the MPSH10's. I always have a stock of those! Like 'em for their high
gain and high Ft.
>
> I am shopping for a digital display and am considering the one I see
> in your pictures or the Norcal FCC-1.
That's a Steve "Melt Solder" Weber, KD1JV display; the older model. Steve
updated the design so that it would be easier to use as a readout for rigs.
The FCC-1 should also work well, and will display the band info too. I think
both of them are about the same price. I had to add some low pass filtering on
the power leads of the KD1JV unit to keep the microprocessor noise from getting
into the rig. Quite now, but couldn't hear anything below about an S9 signal
until I added the filter. Noisy bugger!!
I have looked at others but am
> leaning towrds one of these units right now. Get one coming, then on
> to the transmitter stuff.
I've built both of them and both have their strong points. I'm running an FCC-1
with an FCC-2 as the VFO and readout for the 2-band SSB/CW rig I've been working
on (and off) for the past couple of years. That combo is nice for prototyping work.
> I don't want to run out of parts when I am off work next week...
Yup...that would not be good!!
> that would be my worst nightmare :)
I hear 'ya
72 and thanks for the update Aaron,
Jim, K8IQY
Well finished the TX, I guess thats it so far - minus the RIT and RF
gain control modules that remain yet to be built.
A little scary for first keypress, so I fused it to be safe. First
keying just muted the RX with no sidetone so was even more worried
but turned out to be just the TX driver pot backed off all the way.
Then a faint low tone was heard as I brought the driver pot up a bit
for tweaking in the 2 TX trimmers. Side tone was then adjusted for
pitch using the TX LO trimmer.
I was pretty much blown away by the sidetone level at any volume
setting so I switched out the 2.2M at R63 for a total of 20M there
and seemed to be alot better for my preference. Hopefully this will
not mess up anything else in the circuit? Go figure my Oak Hills is
too low on ST :)
Tweaking the TX in was smooth I thought - everything peaks nicely.
However when I get to checking the output across a 50 ohm dummy load
with my RF probe I came to find only about 8 volts RF with a 13 volt
power supply. This translated to 1.2 watts I am pretty sure.
I know I am doing the math right because I double checked the
reading across my Oak Hills rig which is running about 5.5 watts. So
I'm loosing it somewhere on this 2N2/20.
I measured RF gain thru each of the TX stages with RF probe and they
all seem to be amplifying (There is gain at each stage).
The RF probe is homemade from the ARRL Handbook / Data Book and is
supposedly 10% accuracy 50Khz to 250 Mhz and feeds a digital VOM on
VDC setting.
Measured:
Q21 base .236v
Q21 collector 5.9v
Q22 base .9v
Q22 collector 6.9v
Dummy load 8.0v nominal (Can't fig why it goes up at the
load?)
The TX LO has a 2N4124 - maybe its output is too low for the RX LO &
TX LO app?
The Cascode amp has actual PN2222 Q's
Q21 (2N2222A metal can) has a homemade heatsink on it - the heatsink
gets slightly warm as does the final heatsink.
The final Q is a 2SC2075 as I was unable to locate the 2SC2166.
Any ideas to bring up the output to the full 5W QRP gallon would be
appreciated. Things to check in the ciruit, or subbing parts -
whether its a different Q at a location, or adjusting another
components value.
Also ideas for the proper sampling of the freq for a digital display
unit(Where in the circuit is best to sample, any caveats, any
additional buffers or filters, etc.).
I'm so pleased its working... just have to "Dial it in."
|
3464|3463|2006-10-10 18:55:58|n9skn|Re: 2N2/20 a N9SKN Update|"The TX LO has a 2N4124 - maybe its output is too low for the RX LO &
TX LO app?"
My error the TX LO is already a PN2222.
I am going to try and increase R88 from 51 to 100 ohms at the base of
Q22 and see what happens....
|
3465|3463|2006-10-11 12:36:00|n9skn|Re: 2N2/20 a N9SKN Update|Well after digging through some of the TX posts, I re-wound T9 after
reading this post by Jeff - K8GD who had a low TX output
"Hey guys.... Not sure if this is the problem or not, but I had a
similar problem with the 2N2/30 when I built it... Had to send it to
Jim to figure out what was going on.
Anyway, as it turned out, I wound what would be T9 in the 2N2/20
incorrectly.... I didn't have the "cold ends" of the primary and
secondary windings of the transformer matching (i.e. I had a ground
on
each side of the torroid... hard to explain without a picture but
hopefully you understand what I mean)."
So I rewound it as I thought he was describing and different than I
had originally wound it, but I get the same output.
I then rewound T11 with the same thought in mind - no change.
The Q21 2N2222A was replaced for troubleshooting with a PN2222 - no
change.
Changing the value of R88 to as high as 1K only increased the output
by .2v - back to 51 ohms there now.
I found one of Jim's replies stating in / out volts for TX stages
which is golden in my situation.
"As for signal level, on my rig I'm
> getting about 100 mv p-p or 30 mv rms [N9SKN 10mv] on the primary
winding of T9.
> The signal level into the Tx mixer LO port is 700 mv p-p or 270 mv
[N9SKN 182mv]
> rms, and the signal level on the vfo side of R68 is 800 mv p-p or
> 290 mv rms [N9SKN 146mv fed with 4" RG-174 from VFO].
>
> Coming out of the secondary of T10 is 1.5v p-p or 490 mv rms
[N9SKN 380mv]with
> TC8 and TC9 peaked. That's with the TR1 wiper setting at ground,
> so the driver transistor isn't being driven." [N9SKN pot at ground]
My thoughts are: Q22 final is just not being driven, TX LO output is
low, VFO TX output is low, I think the Cascode is "Cascodiing" fine
with my 380mv output, but its handicapped by the low inputs from VFO
and TX LO
(ie., TX mixer output/Cascode input is therefore low), and I need to
better measure TX RF Driver stage Q21 as I question why my metal
canned 2N2222A with a aluminum blade heatsink got pretty hot key
down and the PN2222 (TO-92) I currently have installed there with NO
heatsink does not?? Yet each provides the same output volts from the
final?? So I do not have full confidence in the TX RF Driver stage
at this point.
Another question that came up for me is the TX LO is supposed to be
adjusted for same pitch as signal received, but I can adjust it for
that same pitch above and below the RX freq - although it is much
much louder if the TX freq is 600-700 Hz above the RX freq. Is this
correct? I just want to make sure I am beating on the right side of
RX, and not working "Duplex" lol.
My previous digital display sampling question - I found an answer to
it in a old post by Jim.
n9skn wrote:
> Well after digging through some of the TX posts, I re-wound T9 after
> reading this post by Jeff - K8GD who had a low TX output
>
> "Hey guys.... Not sure if this is the problem or not, but I had a
> similar problem with the 2N2/30 when I built it... Had to send it to
> Jim to figure out what was going on.
>
> Anyway, as it turned out, I wound what would be T9 in the 2N2/20
> incorrectly.... I didn't have the "cold ends" of the primary and
> secondary windings of the transformer matching (i.e. I had a ground
> on
> each side of the torroid... hard to explain without a picture but
> hopefully you understand what I mean)."
>
> So I rewound it as I thought he was describing and different than I
> had originally wound it, but I get the same output.
>
> I then rewound T11 with the same thought in mind - no change.
I would not expect any change due to the phasing of the primary and secondary
windings. It should not make any difference.
>
> The Q21 2N2222A was replaced for troubleshooting with a PN2222 - no
> change.
> Changing the value of R88 to as high as 1K only increased the output
> by .2v - back to 51 ohms there now.
I guess that's sort of what I would expect. The value of 51 Ohms is a tradeoff
from eating up some power versus stability in the final amplifier transistor.
The lower the base resistor the more stable the amp is, but there aren't any
hand and fast rules on what size the resistor should be. Usually picked from
doing some experimenting and testing.
>
> I found one of Jim's replies stating in / out volts for TX stages
> which is golden in my situation.
>
> "As for signal level, on my rig I'm
>
>>getting about 100 mv p-p or 30 mv rms [N9SKN 10mv] on the primary
>
> winding of T9.
>
>>The signal level into the Tx mixer LO port is 700 mv p-p or 270 mv
>
> [N9SKN 182mv]
>
>>rms, and the signal level on the vfo side of R68 is 800 mv p-p or
>>290 mv rms [N9SKN 146mv fed with 4" RG-174 from VFO].
Have you repeaked the VFO trimmer after adding the Tx components? The
additional loading isn't transparent to the VFO final, so trimmer TC5 should be
repeaked during key down (transmit) conditions.
>>
>>Coming out of the secondary of T10 is 1.5v p-p or 490 mv rms
>
> [N9SKN 380mv]with
>
>>TC8 and TC9 peaked. That's with the TR1 wiper setting at ground,
>>so the driver transistor isn't being driven." [N9SKN pot at ground]
>
>
>
> My thoughts are: Q22 final is just not being driven, TX LO output is
> low, VFO TX output is low, I think the Cascode is "Cascodiing" fine
> with my 380mv output, but its handicapped by the low inputs from VFO
> and TX LO
Well the other confusing factor is that I made my measurements with a good
scope, not an RF probe, so we don't have the values on my rig with your RF
probe. I have a home brew RF probe somewhere around the shack. If I can find it,
I'll remeasure my rig and post those results from the RF probe.
> (ie., TX mixer output/Cascode input is therefore low), and I need to
> better measure TX RF Driver stage Q21 as I question why my metal
> canned 2N2222A with a aluminum blade heatsink got pretty hot key
> down and the PN2222 (TO-92) I currently have installed there with NO
> heatsink does not??
Yes, that is a bit strange....
Yet each provides the same output volts from the
> final?? So I do not have full confidence in the TX RF Driver stage
> at this point.
>
> Another question that came up for me is the TX LO is supposed to be
> adjusted for same pitch as signal received, but I can adjust it for
> that same pitch above and below the RX freq - although it is much
> much louder if the TX freq is 600-700 Hz above the RX freq.
You want the loudest setting, as the receiver listens to the transmit signal and
the louder one is correctly positioned in the receiver passband.
Is this
> correct? I just want to make sure I am beating on the right side of
> RX, and not working "Duplex" lol.
>
>
> My previous digital display sampling question - I found an answer to
> it in a old post by Jim.
>
Sure sounds like the real problem is too little drive from the VFO signal into
the mixer. If repeaking the VFO trimmer doesn't fix that problem, remove the
R68/R69 voltage divider driving the RF port of the mixer and see what that does.
Also, from information I can find on the 2SC2075, it doesn't have as much power
gain as the 2SC2166 has, so you may not get a full QRP gallon out of the rig
with that transistor unless we can get the drive level up.
It's close though, so that's very encouraging!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
OK, so I installed another 2N2222A metal can at Q21 - removing the
PN2222 after double checking the STM Electronics dataheet for pinout
against the Phillips one that I had, and they both agree so I am
confident about that install now (I have the STM component).
I think the heatsink at Q21 is just doing a good job of what its
supposed to do. So then my dummy load was reading 7.5V Where it was
8.15 with the PN2222 :(
So re-peaking TC5 keydown now I could get a few millivolts
(Approx .003v higher) so I removed R68 and R69 as Jim suggested and
re-peaked TC5 and the 2 Cascode trimmers key down. It improved
things quite a bit as RF volts across 50 ohm dummy is now 12.35V (I
figure 3W). The TX mixer output is actually lower now with key down
(Despite tweaking TC5) at 145mv from previos 157mv with R68/R69
installed, but the output has now increased at the ant. dummy load.
Thats a head scratcher for me - actually feel like applying for some
college credit after working on this thing :)
Is there any harm in increasing the value of R88 from the 51 ohms
again? If I do how could I detect the self launch of the final? lol.
What value or method of increasing its value would be the smartest?
Should I rewind the VFO T2 for more TX output if that is possible,
because I see 13db going to RX but 1db to TX?
Roger on the lower output of the 2SC2075 vs the 2SC2166 Jim. I was
afraid of that when I was shopping for the 2SC2166's.
The Toshiba datasheet I have for it says 4W AM / 3.5W min. for .3W
power in at 12V and 27 Mhz. So I guess thats my target....
.3W of drive
As always, thanks for the help.
|
3468|3463|2006-10-11 19:00:09|n9skn|Re: 2N2/20 a N9SKN Update|OK so I found some 2SC2166's over at Ken's Electronics and ordered a
pair of those since the substituted component gain is an issue here
for me.
Jim please don't pull your hair out any more on my 3W 2SC2075 current
setup - hopefully the 2166 will get me up to the 5 W mark and that
will be that. I will consider reinstalling the voltage divider
resistors pending the performance after installing the new final or
your advice either way.
I just answered a CQ from Newton, MA and got a reply with the 2N2/20!
A quick QSO - but hey a QSO.
So is good enough so far for me I think. Man you guys send fast on 20M.
I still have to build the 2 control modules, and I'm planning to add
the Norcal FCC Display and their keyer kit as well when they arrive so
plenty to do still.
Here is a question though, why do I need a piezo buzzer for the Norcal
keyer if I already have sidetone in a rig?
|
3469|3463|2006-10-12 19:45:30|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2/20 a N9SKN Update|n9skn wrote:
> OK so I found some 2SC2166's over at Ken's Electronics and ordered a
> pair of those since the substituted component gain is an issue here
> for me.
>
> Jim please don't pull your hair out any more on my 3W 2SC2075 current
> setup - hopefully the 2166 will get me up to the 5 W mark and that
> will be that. I will consider reinstalling the voltage divider
> resistors pending the performance after installing the new final or
> your advice either way.
>
> I just answered a CQ from Newton, MA and got a reply with the 2N2/20!
> A quick QSO - but hey a QSO.
> So is good enough so far for me I think. Man you guys send fast on 20M.
>
> I still have to build the 2 control modules, and I'm planning to add
> the Norcal FCC Display and their keyer kit as well when they arrive so
> plenty to do still.
>
> Here is a question though, why do I need a piezo buzzer for the Norcal
> keyer if I already have sidetone in a rig?
You don't need the piezo buzzer; just listen to the sidetone that the rig
provides. On second thought, the piezo buzzer may be necessary when you are
programing the keyer and need to listen to the menu choices without having the
rig being keyed. You could probably add a switch to the keyer to enable the
piezo buzzer when doing those functions, and kill it when its not needed for "on
air" work. Another thought is to route the piezo output through a resistive
divider and capacitor and couple it to the 2N2/20 audio so that the speaker is
used. Would still need a switch inline to keep that audio from reaching the
audio amp when "on air".
72,
Jim, K8IQY
n9skn wrote:
> OK, so I installed another 2N2222A metal can at Q21 - removing the
> PN2222 after double checking the STM Electronics dataheet for pinout
> against the Phillips one that I had, and they both agree so I am
> confident about that install now (I have the STM component).
>
> I think the heatsink at Q21 is just doing a good job of what its
> supposed to do. So then my dummy load was reading 7.5V Where it was
> 8.15 with the PN2222 :(
That's kinda confusing isn't it?.......
>
> So re-peaking TC5 keydown now I could get a few millivolts
> (Approx .003v higher) so I removed R68 and R69 as Jim suggested and
> re-peaked TC5 and the 2 Cascode trimmers key down. It improved
> things quite a bit as RF volts across 50 ohm dummy is now 12.35V (I
> figure 3W).
I hope we aren't overdriving the mixer on the RF port. That ADE-1 can only
handle something like 0 dBm on the RF port before it overloads and all kinds of
nasty stuff comes out of the IF port. R68 and R69 were there to insure that the
+1 dBm level from the VFO didn't overload the mixer.
As an aside, have to tested all of the trimmers in the various sections to
assure there are two peaks as each is rotated through 360 degrees. If you don't
have two peaks on each, then the tuned circuits are probably not peaking fully.
The TX mixer output is actually lower now with key down
> (Despite tweaking TC5) at 145mv from previos 157mv with R68/R69
> installed, but the output has now increased at the ant. dummy load.
Also strange unless it is spurious outputs that are not higher than before.
Let's not assume that though for the moment and let it be a measurement anomaly.
> Thats a head scratcher for me - actually feel like applying for some
> college credit after working on this thing :)
Yes, I know that feeling.....
>
> Is there any harm in increasing the value of R88 from the 51 ohms
> again?
Probably go up to 100 Ohms safely.
If I do how could I detect the self launch of the final? lol.
With a scope you might see parasitic problems; with a spectrum analyzer, you
certainly will! The best indication that the final is "taking off" is when you
raise the drive level. If the output suddenly "pops up" instead of rising
smoothly, the final is probably taking off, or the driver is.
> What value or method of increasing its value would be the smartest?
See above.
>
> Should I rewind the VFO T2 for more TX output if that is possible,
> because I see 13db going to RX but 1db to TX?
That's the way it is supposed to be. The 13 dBm is driving the Rx mixer on its
LO port, but the 1 dBm is driving the Tx mixer on its RF port. Those ports can't
take the same amount of power. The LO port needs more power to make the diodes
in the mixer saturate, but the RF port is sensitive to overdriving. If
overdriven, spurious outputs start appearing, rapidly with overdrive.
>
> Roger on the lower output of the 2SC2075 vs the 2SC2166 Jim. I was
> afraid of that when I was shopping for the 2SC2166's.
> The Toshiba datasheet I have for it says 4W AM / 3.5W min. for .3W
> power in at 12V and 27 Mhz. So I guess thats my target....
>
> .3W of drive
Well I'm guessing with 0.3 watts of drive into a 2SC2166 you'll have
considerable more output than 4 watts, probably more like 8 or 9 watts if it is
a moderately "hot" transistor.
>
> As always, thanks for the help.
You are welcome. Nice to hear that you made a contact with your rig. Hope to
hear of more as you go along, and comments about the rigs are always nice,
whether positive or negative. That's how I learn.
72 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
>
> I hope we aren't overdriving the mixer on the RF port. That ADE-1
can only
> handle something like 0 dBm on the RF port before it overloads and
all kinds of
> nasty stuff comes out of the IF port. R68 and R69 were there to
insure that the
> +1 dBm level from the VFO didn't overload the mixer.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Well I plan on reinstalling R68 and R69 before operating the rig any
further (Which probably won't be until the new finals arrive). Your
explanation of the mixer drive levels makes perfect sense that I was
previously unaware of. Hopefully with the 2SC2166 all will be OK at
5w then.
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> As an aside, have to tested all of the trimmers in the various
sections to
> assure there are two peaks as each is rotated through 360 degrees.
If you don't
> have two peaks on each, then the tuned circuits are probably not
peaking fully.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Yes I can duplicate those conditions perfectly at all TC positions
except the last trimmer before the final after removing R68 and R69.
That one allowed me to really peak the output volts at the dummy
load, but would then just "Fall off" to ZERO output after rotating
slowly through peak. It was not like that with Those 2 resistors
installed so I think its probably best to put them back and stay as
close to your original design intentions as possible, Jim.
Your thoughts about the keyer buzzer question make good sense here.
I will continue the build - getting the additional boards built and
the whole shebang boxed up. Then maybe upload some pics.
So far this has been a challenging/learning/ and rewarding
experience.
My deepest gratitude for sharing and supporting your designs with us
Jim.
Aaron / N9SKN
>
Hello everyone. I have just completed the receiver section. Hear
noise..so that is a good sign.
Just curious as to what you have found to be the tunning range of the
VFO.I am getting some strange (at least in my view)readings. My
measurements show that the range is from 2.736.52 MHz to a low of
2.718.00 MHz and then increases again to 2.736.00 MHz for the full 10T
pot rotation.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Serge
VA3SB
|
3473|3472|2006-10-20 14:55:26|Jim Kortge|2N2 30 Transceiver|Greetings Serge,
serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> Hello everyone. I have just completed the receiver section. Hear
> noise..so that is a good sign.
Indeed it it....I had mine on today and heard a couple of very strong CW signals
at the bottom of the band.
>
> Just curious as to what you have found to be the tunning range of the
> VFO.I am getting some strange (at least in my view)readings. My
> measurements show that the range is from 2.736.52 MHz to a low of
> 2.718.00 MHz and then increases again to 2.736.00 MHz for the full 10T
> pot rotation.
Something wrong. I'm guessing that the wiring to the tuning pot isn't correct or
the power supply components that drive the tuning pot aren't correct. The VFO
should tune from 2.7272 MHz up to 2.7772 for 50 KHz of coverage with the
specified IF frequency of 7.3728. In reality, the IF frequency is slighty
different, so the VFO needs to tune slightly differently also. In my rig, the
VFO tunes from 2.7321 MHz to 2.7790 MHz, for a total range of ~ 47 KHz, a bit
shy of the whole band. Look at the components R10, D4, and D5 to make sure they
are all installed correctly. If they are, the voltage at the junction of R10 and
D4 should read 6.9 volts, and the junction of D4 and D5 should read 0.7 volts.
Those points drive the top end of the tuning pot, points "A" and "C". However,
there is a 820 Ohm resistor (R18) from point "C" to the 0.7 volt reference
point. Resistor R81, a 4.3K unit is between tuning pot point "B" and point "C"
to linearize the tuning.
>
> Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
See above.....
Sorry for the delay in answering your question. Been busy!! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
>
> Greetings Serge,
>
> serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> > Hello everyone. I have just completed the receiver section. Hear
> > noise..so that is a good sign.
>
> Indeed it it....I had mine on today and heard a couple of very
strong CW signals
> at the bottom of the band.
> >
> > Just curious as to what you have found to be the tunning range
of the
> > VFO.I am getting some strange (at least in my view)readings. My
> > measurements show that the range is from 2.736.52 MHz to a low
of
> > 2.718.00 MHz and then increases again to 2.736.00 MHz for the
full 10T
> > pot rotation.
>
> Something wrong. I'm guessing that the wiring to the tuning pot
isn't correct or
> the power supply components that drive the tuning pot aren't
correct. The VFO
> should tune from 2.7272 MHz up to 2.7772 for 50 KHz of coverage
with the
> specified IF frequency of 7.3728. In reality, the IF frequency is
slighty
> different, so the VFO needs to tune slightly differently also. In
my rig, the
> VFO tunes from 2.7321 MHz to 2.7790 MHz, for a total range of ~ 47
KHz, a bit
> shy of the whole band. Look at the components R10, D4, and D5 to
make sure they
> are all installed correctly. If they are, the voltage at the
junction of R10 and
> D4 should read 6.9 volts, and the junction of D4 and D5 should
read 0.7 volts.
> Those points drive the top end of the tuning pot, points "A"
and "C". However,
> there is a 820 Ohm resistor (R18) from point "C" to the 0.7 volt
reference
> point. Resistor R81, a 4.3K unit is between tuning pot point "B"
and point "C"
> to linearize the tuning.
> >
> > Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
>
> See above.....
>
> Sorry for the delay in answering your question. Been busy!! :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Thank you for your response Jim. I certainly realize that you are
busy with may other activities.
I will take a closer look at the VFO circuit again when I get home
this evening to be sure it is as per the schematic. Will keep the
list posted.
Have a great weekend.
Regards,
Serge--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
>
> Greetings Serge,
>
> serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> > Hello everyone. I have just completed the receiver section. Hear
> > noise..so that is a good sign.
>
> Indeed it it....I had mine on today and heard a couple of very
strong CW signals
> at the bottom of the band.
> >
> > Just curious as to what you have found to be the tunning range
of the
> > VFO.I am getting some strange (at least in my view)readings. My
> > measurements show that the range is from 2.736.52 MHz to a low
of
> > 2.718.00 MHz and then increases again to 2.736.00 MHz for the
full 10T
> > pot rotation.
>
> Something wrong. I'm guessing that the wiring to the tuning pot
isn't correct or
> the power supply components that drive the tuning pot aren't
correct. The VFO
> should tune from 2.7272 MHz up to 2.7772 for 50 KHz of coverage
with the
> specified IF frequency of 7.3728. In reality, the IF frequency is
slighty
> different, so the VFO needs to tune slightly differently also. In
my rig, the
> VFO tunes from 2.7321 MHz to 2.7790 MHz, for a total range of ~ 47
KHz, a bit
> shy of the whole band. Look at the components R10, D4, and D5 to
make sure they
> are all installed correctly. If they are, the voltage at the
junction of R10 and
> D4 should read 6.9 volts, and the junction of D4 and D5 should
read 0.7 volts.
> Those points drive the top end of the tuning pot, points "A"
and "C". However,
> there is a 820 Ohm resistor (R18) from point "C" to the 0.7 volt
reference
> point. Resistor R81, a 4.3K unit is between tuning pot point "B"
and point "C"
> to linearize the tuning.
> >
> > Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
>
> See above.....
>
> Sorry for the delay in answering your question. Been busy!! :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Thank you for your response Jim. I certainly realize that you are
busy with may other activities.
I will take a closer look at the VFO circuit again when I get home
this evening to be sure it is as per the schematic. Will keep the
list posted.
Have a great weekend.
Regards,
SergeHello Jim and the group.
Well, as per Jim's last email to me I did find my problem with the
2N2 30 VFO. It certainly helps when you wire up the pot correctly!
That was truly an easy fix. Next challenge was that I was not able
to tune the front end of the rig properly. So, I took a closer look
at the RF Gain/Rx Input BP Filter circuit. Let's just say that the
circuit works much better when you have the correct number of turns
on T1 (I was off by a turn or two :-)).
Glad to report that I am listening to some 30M cw activity as I
write this email. Now I have to see if I can get rid of the annoying
Broadcast interference.
Thanks again for your help Jim. Have a great week everyone..
Regards,
Serge
VA3SB
|
3477|3472|2006-10-23 14:41:20|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2 30 Transceiver|serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> Hello Jim and the group.
>
> Well, as per Jim's last email to me I did find my problem with the
> 2N2 30 VFO. It certainly helps when you wire up the pot correctly!
> That was truly an easy fix. Next challenge was that I was not able
> to tune the front end of the rig properly. So, I took a closer look
> at the RF Gain/Rx Input BP Filter circuit. Let's just say that the
> circuit works much better when you have the correct number of turns
> on T1 (I was off by a turn or two :-)).
Serge,
Glad to hear that you found the mis-wiring of the pot. I figured it had to be
something like that if it wasn't tuning linearly.
>
> Glad to report that I am listening to some 30M cw activity as I
> write this email.
I like to hear that!! :-)
Now I have to see if I can get rid of the annoying
> Broadcast interference.
Does it tune or is it always there, like leakage into the IF?
>
> Thanks again for your help Jim. Have a great week everyone..
Thanks for the update Serge. TTUL
72 and GO TIGERS!!
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
Would you be able to tell me the output impedance of the TX mixer as
it relates to the input requirement of the Cascode amp please? I
think this would be the same question as the in and out impedance of
matching transformer T9.
I am asking because after I installed my recently received 2SC2166
final, I still was not able to exceed 8v rms into 50 ohms without
removing R68 and R69 then I was up to 2.8 w after peaking. I have
removed and rewound the VFO output transformer :( and double checked
the installation / values of the VFO output section, the TX mix, and
all three TX amps, and removed and reinstalled a considerable number
of other components that I thought may be related to my low output
problem. After "Spinning my wheels" for about a week every night on
it now, I have constructed a minimum component / driver level /
broadband RF amp from the QRP Design Notebook after finding that I
already had the correct toroid and 2N3866 in my junkbox. I would use
this to help me figure out my problem.
I inserted the new amp between the 2N2/20 driver and the final. I
would then have 4 stages of amplification. I could then still not
exceed ~3w with R68 and R69 installed. Although the TC8/TC9 peaking
was smooth ups and downs. If I removed the resistors, while tweaking
in TC9, the output would "Switch off" to zero on the way up past the
12 vrms. I spent some time and tried changing the values of the
final's base resistor R88 through 4 other lower values. This finally
provided smooth peaking at or below 33 ohms - but the output was
back down again to the 3 w level.
So I bypassed the 2N2/20 driver and installed the new amp in its
place. Not a scientific description, but I had pretty much the same
output results - as I was either limited to 3 watts with R68/R69
installed, or output would switch off to zero after ~12 vrms.
I reinstalled the 2N2/20 driver, and installed the new amp between
the driver and the final again. Then bypassed the Cascode going
straight from the TX mixer to the 2N2/20 driver. In this config I
have 4w with the resistors installed, and 6.5w max without the
resistors. I still have a good sidetone, and no heat issues - except
in the QRP dummy load finally where it belongs. The TX seems stable
whether I use TXVCC or let it idle on the VCC either way.
It seems to me that my Cascode DOES work, (I had previously measured
gain through it anyway) however after a certain power level some of
the stages or components apparently couple and things turn sour.
This is no doubt due to my layout or component spacing here.
In the interests of some kind of progress and moving this project
ahead, I have removed the Cascode from the board and will
reconstruct the 2N2/20 driver and this new RF amp in its place on
the board since it seems to achieve the same result without being
constrained to the 2N2222 rule as it was originally.
The input and output of the new RF amp located between the 2N2/20
driver and final are 50 ohms, so I just want to make sure that I
match up to the 2N2/20 stages OK with impedances. This is why I am
asking about T9 especially.
Thanks again for the help,
Aaron / N9SKN
|
3479|3478|2006-10-23 20:17:10|n9skn|Re: 2N2/20 TX Impedance Question|Think I answered my own question on that one.
Tried the above "New amp" line up with T9 installed this evening and
output dropped to 3vrms and sidetone sounded like soup. So am going to
continue without T9.
Ran 6.7w with R68/69 and T9 removed (Direct TX mixer to 2n2/20 driver
connection)
Ran 5.8w same config but adding the TR1 50 ohm drive pot at the output
of the 2N2/20 driver (This seems to be the best place for this pot
although interesting to loose 1w for pot install)
Power supply volts = 13.0v
Hey nice job with that 2N2/30, Sergio. I suppose it will not be long
before that one is on the air :)
|
3480|3472|2006-10-24 17:47:21|serge_bertuzzo|Re: 2N2 30 Transceiver|Hello Jim and thanks for your email. I am currently away on a
business trip to Ottawa until tomorrow afternoon.
The BCST signal is always present. I did have a similar problem with
the 40 M rig but it was eliminated when I grounded the shaft of the
audio amp pot. I also grounded the pot in this rig but while the
intereference was reduced it is still quite strong.
I must say though the receiver is very quite (with the exception of
the BCST signal of course) and the cw signals sound great...can't
wait to build the transmitter and make a qso..
Any suggestions as to how to deal with the BCST interference would
be greatly appreciated. Have a great day..
Regards.
Serge
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
>
> serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> > Hello Jim and the group.
> >
> > Well, as per Jim's last email to me I did find my problem with
the
> > 2N2 30 VFO. It certainly helps when you wire up the pot
correctly!
> > That was truly an easy fix. Next challenge was that I was not
able
> > to tune the front end of the rig properly. So, I took a closer
look
> > at the RF Gain/Rx Input BP Filter circuit. Let's just say that
the
> > circuit works much better when you have the correct number of
turns
> > on T1 (I was off by a turn or two :-)).
>
> Serge,
>
> Glad to hear that you found the mis-wiring of the pot. I figured
it had to be
> something like that if it wasn't tuning linearly.
> >
> > Glad to report that I am listening to some 30M cw activity as I
> > write this email.
>
> I like to hear that!! :-)
>
> Now I have to see if I can get rid of the annoying
> > Broadcast interference.
>
> Does it tune or is it always there, like leakage into the IF?
>
>
> >
> > Thanks again for your help Jim. Have a great week everyone..
>
> Thanks for the update Serge. TTUL
>
> 72 and GO TIGERS!!
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Hello Aaron. Sounds like you are making quite a bit of progress
yourself. I built the 20 and 40M versions of the rig and now am on
to the 30 M version. I think the rigs are just great to operate and
as an added bonus you learn quite a bit on homebrewing. What can be
better than that!
Have a great evening and good luck with your project. Keep the group
updated on your progress.
Regards,
Serge
VA3SB
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "n9skn" wrote:
>
> Think I answered my own question on that one.
>
> Tried the above "New amp" line up with T9 installed this evening
and
> output dropped to 3vrms and sidetone sounded like soup. So am
going to
> continue without T9.
>
> Ran 6.7w with R68/69 and T9 removed (Direct TX mixer to 2n2/20
driver
> connection)
>
> Ran 5.8w same config but adding the TR1 50 ohm drive pot at the
output
> of the 2N2/20 driver (This seems to be the best place for this pot
> although interesting to loose 1w for pot install)
> Power supply volts = 13.0v
>
> Hey nice job with that 2N2/30, Sergio. I suppose it will not be
long
> before that one is on the air :)
>
Sometimes big loop antennas or long wire antennas that are not run
through a proper tuner can cause overloads. I have had this problem
more than once using my simple L tuner and a 80 dipole on 40 meters. So
if you have a resonant antenna you might give that a try...
steve NU0P
serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> Hello Jim and thanks for your email. I am currently away on a
> business trip to Ottawa until tomorrow afternoon.
>
> The BCST signal is always present. I did have a similar problem with
> the 40 M rig but it was eliminated when I grounded the shaft of the
> audio amp pot. I also grounded the pot in this rig but while the
> intereference was reduced it is still quite strong.
>
> I must say though the receiver is very quite (with the exception of
> the BCST signal of course) and the cw signals sound great...can't
> wait to build the transmitter and make a qso..
>
> Any suggestions as to how to deal with the BCST interference would
> be greatly appreciated. Have a great day..
>
> Regards.
>
> Serge
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>>
>>
>> serge_bertuzzo wrote:
>>> Hello Jim and the group.
>>>
>>> Well, as per Jim's last email to me I did find my problem with
> the
>>> 2N2 30 VFO. It certainly helps when you wire up the pot
> correctly!
>>> That was truly an easy fix. Next challenge was that I was not
> able
>>> to tune the front end of the rig properly. So, I took a closer
> look
>>> at the RF Gain/Rx Input BP Filter circuit. Let's just say that
> the
>>> circuit works much better when you have the correct number of
> turns
>>> on T1 (I was off by a turn or two :-)).
>> Serge,
>>
>> Glad to hear that you found the mis-wiring of the pot. I figured
> it had to be
>> something like that if it wasn't tuning linearly.
>>> Glad to report that I am listening to some 30M cw activity as I
>>> write this email.
>> I like to hear that!! :-)
>>
>> Now I have to see if I can get rid of the annoying
>>> Broadcast interference.
>> Does it tune or is it always there, like leakage into the IF?
>>
>>
>>> Thanks again for your help Jim. Have a great week everyone..
>> Thanks for the update Serge. TTUL
>>
>> 72 and GO TIGERS!!
>>
>> Jim, K8IQY
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
n9skn wrote:
> Jim,
>
Hi Aaron,
> Would you be able to tell me the output impedance of the TX mixer as
> it relates to the input requirement of the Cascode amp please?
Well the output of the mixer is kind of indeterminate. They are however designed
to be terminated with 50 Ohms on all ports. Transformer T9 in conjunction with
the -3 dB attenuator (R70, R71, and R72)provides the required 50 Ohm loading for
the IF port. It does that by transforming the input impedance of the Cascode
amplifier down to that impedance.
I
> think this would be the same question as the in and out impedance of
> matching transformer T9.
50 Ohms on the input side, and 5000 Ohms on the output side. Those values were
chosen to make the secondary of T9 high enough to be an effective filter due to
the tuning of the secondary by C72 and TC8. All of this was modelled using a
SPICE simulator and assuring the impedances were as stated above.
>
> I am asking because after I installed my recently received 2SC2166
> final, I still was not able to exceed 8v rms into 50 ohms without
> removing R68 and R69 then I was up to 2.8 w after peaking. I have
> removed and rewound the VFO output transformer :( and double checked
> the installation / values of the VFO output section, the TX mix, and
> all three TX amps, and removed and reinstalled a considerable number
> of other components that I thought may be related to my low output
> problem. After "Spinning my wheels" for about a week every night on
> it now, I have constructed a minimum component / driver level /
> broadband RF amp from the QRP Design Notebook after finding that I
> already had the correct toroid and 2N3866 in my junkbox. I would use
> this to help me figure out my problem.
>
> I inserted the new amp between the 2N2/20 driver and the final. I
> would then have 4 stages of amplification. I could then still not
> exceed ~3w with R68 and R69 installed. Although the TC8/TC9 peaking
> was smooth ups and downs. If I removed the resistors, while tweaking
> in TC9, the output would "Switch off" to zero on the way up past the
> 12 vrms. I spent some time and tried changing the values of the
> final's base resistor R88 through 4 other lower values. This finally
> provided smooth peaking at or below 33 ohms - but the output was
> back down again to the 3 w level.
>
> So I bypassed the 2N2/20 driver and installed the new amp in its
> place. Not a scientific description, but I had pretty much the same
> output results - as I was either limited to 3 watts with R68/R69
> installed, or output would switch off to zero after ~12 vrms.
>
> I reinstalled the 2N2/20 driver, and installed the new amp between
> the driver and the final again. Then bypassed the Cascode going
> straight from the TX mixer to the 2N2/20 driver. In this config I
> have 4w with the resistors installed, and 6.5w max without the
> resistors. I still have a good sidetone, and no heat issues - except
> in the QRP dummy load finally where it belongs. The TX seems stable
> whether I use TXVCC or let it idle on the VCC either way.
From the above description, it sure sounds like the Cascode Amplifier isn't
working as it should. After I send this email out, I'll see if I can find the
SPICE model of the amplifier and send an update with the power gain of this
stage. I can no longer remember that detail! :-)
>
> It seems to me that my Cascode DOES work, (I had previously measured
> gain through it anyway) however after a certain power level some of
> the stages or components apparently couple and things turn sour.
> This is no doubt due to my layout or component spacing here.
Maybe that or a power supply that is getting upset by RF getting into it and
going nuts. I've seen that happen also.
>
> In the interests of some kind of progress and moving this project
> ahead, I have removed the Cascode from the board and will
> reconstruct the 2N2/20 driver and this new RF amp in its place on
> the board since it seems to achieve the same result without being
> constrained to the 2N2222 rule as it was originally.
Yep...it's your rig and you can build it like you want. Other have made changes
as they've built their rigs.
>
> The input and output of the new RF amp located between the 2N2/20
> driver and final are 50 ohms, so I just want to make sure that I
> match up to the 2N2/20 stages OK with impedances. This is why I am
> asking about T9 especially.
Should be fine......
>
> Thanks again for the help,
Sorry for the delay in answering. Been busy again with lots of music related stuff.
72 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
n9skn wrote:
> Think I answered my own question on that one.
>
> Tried the above "New amp" line up with T9 installed this evening and
> output dropped to 3vrms and sidetone sounded like soup. So am going to
> continue without T9.
>
> Ran 6.7w with R68/69 and T9 removed (Direct TX mixer to 2n2/20 driver
> connection)
Well you may not be doing the right thing. The tuned input and output of the
original Cascode Amplifier provided lots of gain AND FILTERING to remove the
spurious components coming out of the mixer IF port. Without tuned amplifiers or
filters on the output of the mixer, all of those nasty components are passed to
the following stages, amplified, and fed to the final transistor. You probably
won't have the spectral purity required by the FCC without those filters.
The added power you are seeing may well be (and probably is) spurious junk
coming out of the mixer and not getting filtered out.
>
> Ran 5.8w same config but adding the TR1 50 ohm drive pot at the output
> of the 2N2/20 driver (This seems to be the best place for this pot
> although interesting to loose 1w for pot install)
Yes, you'd probably have a better arrangement with it being on the input of the
driver. It was on the output of the Cascode Amp as that is at a much lower power
level than the driver.
> Power supply volts = 13.0v
Is that under load?
>
> Hey nice job with that 2N2/30, Sergio. I suppose it will not be long
> before that one is on the air :)
Yes, and I'd like to work Serge's rig.
72 all,
Jim, K8IQY
serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> Hello Jim and thanks for your email. I am currently away on a
> business trip to Ottawa until tomorrow afternoon.
>
> The BCST signal is always present. I did have a similar problem with
> the 40 M rig but it was eliminated when I grounded the shaft of the
> audio amp pot. I also grounded the pot in this rig but while the
> intereference was reduced it is still quite strong.
>
> I must say though the receiver is very quite (with the exception of
> the BCST signal of course) and the cw signals sound great...can't
> wait to build the transmitter and make a qso..
>
> Any suggestions as to how to deal with the BCST interference would
> be greatly appreciated. Have a great day..
>
> Regards.
>
> Serge
Serge,
So you know what frequency the interfering station is on. That might let me make
a better stab at how to solve the problem.
72 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
PS...try using a very short antenna on the rig, maybe 10 feet of wire and see if
the BCST is there. If it isn't, it may well be intermod from the back-to-back
diodes in the Rx input to protect the RF amp. Putting a pair of diodes or three
in each string back-to-back should fix it if that is the source of the problem.
Jim Kortge wrote:
Make that....do you know the frequency.....
>
> serge_bertuzzo wrote:
>
>>Hello Jim and thanks for your email. I am currently away on a
>>business trip to Ottawa until tomorrow afternoon.
>>
>>The BCST signal is always present. I did have a similar problem with
>>the 40 M rig but it was eliminated when I grounded the shaft of the
>>audio amp pot. I also grounded the pot in this rig but while the
>>intereference was reduced it is still quite strong.
>>
>>I must say though the receiver is very quite (with the exception of
>>the BCST signal of course) and the cw signals sound great...can't
>>wait to build the transmitter and make a qso..
>>
>>Any suggestions as to how to deal with the BCST interference would
>>be greatly appreciated. Have a great day..
>>
>>Regards.
>>
>>Serge
>
>
> Serge,
>
> So you know what frequency the interfering station is on. That might let me make
> a better stab at how to solve the problem.
>
> 72 and thanks for the update,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS...try using a very short antenna on the rig, maybe 10 feet of wire and see if
> the BCST is there. If it isn't, it may well be intermod from the back-to-back
> diodes in the Rx input to protect the RF amp. Putting a pair of diodes or three
> in each string back-to-back should fix it if that is the source of the problem.
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Aaron and others who are interested,
I found in my documentation that the 2N2/20 Cascode Amp runs a power gain of 24
dB. With 100 mv p-p input, the output will be 1.5 v p-p across 50 Ohms. The
following driver stage shows 17 volts p-p on the collector of the 2N2222A (or
primary of T11) with the power output of the rig adjusted to 4 watts. I didn't
measure the input to the driver stage under these conditions, so don't know how
much power gain is being seen in that stage, but I do know that the power
setting pot was not at all near full. Maybe all of this will help.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
3488|3478|2006-10-24 23:36:47|n9skn|Re: 2N2/20 TX Impedance Question|--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
> Well you may not be doing the right thing. The tuned input and
output of the
> original Cascode Amplifier provided lots of gain AND FILTERING to
remove the
> spurious components coming out of the mixer IF port. Without tuned
amplifiers or
> filters on the output of the mixer, all of those nasty components
are passed to
> the following stages, amplified, and fed to the final transistor.
You probably
> won't have the spectral purity required by the FCC without those
filters.
>
> The added power you are seeing may well be (and probably is)
spurious junk
> coming out of the mixer and not getting filtered out.
> >
Oh boy. I was afraid you might have said somthing like that. I could
tell that the Cascode is filtered or a narrowband amp because of the
type of toroids and also the peaking of the TC's I thought. I was
hoping the output filter would have took care of that, but figured
wrong then.
I am really surprised its the TX that got me instead of the RX by
sheer component count and thus the odds. Unless its just the higher
levels of RF that bite me in the TX. I just got done putting the
2N2/20 driver stage back on the board, but I guess I should remove
that again and maybe trying to do the Cascode again then since I
have not put the QRP Design Notebook amp on there too quite yet. I
don't want to pork the spectral output with only the broadband amps
if thats the case.
Great info on the Cascode specs Jim, and should prove very helpful
as usual, though I am thinking I may need a break from this to
regain some patience before attempting Mr. Cascode again.
Who was this Cascode guy anyway? And why did he detest the direct-
coupled RF amplifier? ...and was he really Marconi's cousin???
:)
Thank you,
Aaron / N9SKNThanks for your feedback and suggestion Steve. Indeed I have a
resonant 30M antenna that I am using with the rig. WIll keep at
it...have a great day..
Serge
VA3SB
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Steve NU0P wrote:
>
> Sometimes big loop antennas or long wire antennas that are not run
> through a proper tuner can cause overloads. I have had this
problem
> more than once using my simple L tuner and a 80 dipole on 40
meters. So
> if you have a resonant antenna you might give that a try...
>
> steve NU0P
>
> serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> > Hello Jim and thanks for your email. I am currently away on a
> > business trip to Ottawa until tomorrow afternoon.
> >
> > The BCST signal is always present. I did have a similar problem
with
> > the 40 M rig but it was eliminated when I grounded the shaft of
the
> > audio amp pot. I also grounded the pot in this rig but while the
> > intereference was reduced it is still quite strong.
> >
> > I must say though the receiver is very quite (with the exception
of
> > the BCST signal of course) and the cw signals sound
great...can't
> > wait to build the transmitter and make a qso..
> >
> > Any suggestions as to how to deal with the BCST interference
would
> > be greatly appreciated. Have a great day..
> >
> > Regards.
> >
> > Serge
> >
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> >>> Hello Jim and the group.
> >>>
> >>> Well, as per Jim's last email to me I did find my problem with
> > the
> >>> 2N2 30 VFO. It certainly helps when you wire up the pot
> > correctly!
> >>> That was truly an easy fix. Next challenge was that I was not
> > able
> >>> to tune the front end of the rig properly. So, I took a closer
> > look
> >>> at the RF Gain/Rx Input BP Filter circuit. Let's just say that
> > the
> >>> circuit works much better when you have the correct number of
> > turns
> >>> on T1 (I was off by a turn or two :-)).
> >> Serge,
> >>
> >> Glad to hear that you found the mis-wiring of the pot. I
figured
> > it had to be
> >> something like that if it wasn't tuning linearly.
> >>> Glad to report that I am listening to some 30M cw activity as
I
> >>> write this email.
> >> I like to hear that!! :-)
> >>
> >> Now I have to see if I can get rid of the annoying
> >>> Broadcast interference.
> >> Does it tune or is it always there, like leakage into the IF?
> >>
> >>
> >>> Thanks again for your help Jim. Have a great week everyone..
> >> Thanks for the update Serge. TTUL
> >>
> >> 72 and GO TIGERS!!
> >>
> >> Jim, K8IQY
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Thanks again for your email Jim. I will try a shorter antenna and
see if I can figure out the frequency of the station. I will keep
you posted.
Regards,
Serge
VA3SB
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
>
> Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> Make that....do you know the frequency.....
>
> >
> > serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> >
> >>Hello Jim and thanks for your email. I am currently away on a
> >>business trip to Ottawa until tomorrow afternoon.
> >>
> >>The BCST signal is always present. I did have a similar problem
with
> >>the 40 M rig but it was eliminated when I grounded the shaft of
the
> >>audio amp pot. I also grounded the pot in this rig but while the
> >>intereference was reduced it is still quite strong.
> >>
> >>I must say though the receiver is very quite (with the exception
of
> >>the BCST signal of course) and the cw signals sound
great...can't
> >>wait to build the transmitter and make a qso..
> >>
> >>Any suggestions as to how to deal with the BCST interference
would
> >>be greatly appreciated. Have a great day..
> >>
> >>Regards.
> >>
> >>Serge
> >
> >
> > Serge,
> >
> > So you know what frequency the interfering station is on. That
might let me make
> > a better stab at how to solve the problem.
> >
> > 72 and thanks for the update,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> > PS...try using a very short antenna on the rig, maybe 10 feet of
wire and see if
> > the BCST is there. If it isn't, it may well be intermod from the
back-to-back
> > diodes in the Rx input to protect the RF amp. Putting a pair of
diodes or three
> > in each string back-to-back should fix it if that is the source
of the problem.
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
I completely removed the cascode, and driver stages from the board.
There is not much left of my board section there from all the R & R.
Rebuilt both stages using different layouts hoping to omit any
mistakes that way. New Q's and R's and rewinding the 3 forms and
testing all caps for values before reinstall.
I got ~8vrms (1.3w) into 50 ohm dummy load after the final, and
~12vrms (2.8w) with R68 and R69 removed. This is the same results as
I had before the rebuild. I'm not even going to build the Qrp design
notebook RF amp again and add it after the 2N2/20 driver, because I
think the results would be the same there too. Somthing in the
cascode limits that as well.
I'm considering building that "Miniboots" amp over at AMQRP and
trying to see if I can get that to work for the 5w, but am open to
other suggestions. Its about the only thing I can think of right
now. Seems like a nice and handy little circuit they came up with
for QRP'ers.
I have constructed the audio derived S meter from the QRP Design
Notebook (I had done this also for my Oak Hills rig). The circuit
and meter works and adjusts OK, but when I turn up the volume all
the way, then the output on the meter goes down like 3dB with that
last little turn (Increase) of the volume pot. There is a MPF102
buffer stage in the front end of the S meter board so I don't think
it is loading down the audio. It does this whether I sample from the
transformer output, (Which I don't want to do since its after the
volume control), or if I sample from a LM380N circuit I have
parallelled off the audio string right after the mute resistor. The
LM380N circuit is an exact duplicate of the one from my Oak Hills
Spirit II print. I had to install the amp because the S meter board
needs a minimum level of audio to work, and the audio preamp is not
enough to even budge the needle on the most sensitive setting.
So any ideas there as far as sampling, amping, or circuits would be
appreciated as well since I know I am not the first one to put one
of those on.
Best Regards,
Aaron
|
3492|3491|2006-10-28 14:41:40|Jim Kortge|Re: N9SKN - 2N2/20 Update|n9skn wrote:
> I completely removed the cascode, and driver stages from the board.
> There is not much left of my board section there from all the R & R.
> Rebuilt both stages using different layouts hoping to omit any
> mistakes that way. New Q's and R's and rewinding the 3 forms and
> testing all caps for values before reinstall.
The transmit section is sure giving you fits and starts Aaron!
>
> I got ~8vrms (1.3w) into 50 ohm dummy load after the final, and
> ~12vrms (2.8w) with R68 and R69 removed. This is the same results as
> I had before the rebuild. I'm not even going to build the Qrp design
> notebook RF amp again and add it after the 2N2/20 driver, because I
> think the results would be the same there too. Somthing in the
> cascode limits that as well.
Interesting. That would suggest that both of those stages are working as
designed and the problem(s) are elsewhere. Could be something in the output
filter section eating up the power, like not having the Low Pass corner
frequency out far enough, thus attenuating the 14 MHz signal much more than is
provided in the design. Or, maybe the measurement equipment you are using isn't
giving you accurate results. One of the cuplrits could be the type of capacitor
you are using in the low pass filter. Those have to be NPO ceramics,
polystyrene, or mica to have Q's high enough not to eat a considerable amount of
power. With the right capacitors, the inductor values have to be correct too.
Too high of inductance will kill a lot of the output. Too small will provide
lots of power out, but may not reduce the harmonics properly. That said, I'd be
inclined to remove L12 and L13, rewind each of them with one less turn, install
that set and see what happens.
>
> I'm considering building that "Miniboots" amp over at AMQRP and
> trying to see if I can get that to work for the 5w, but am open to
> other suggestions. Its about the only thing I can think of right
> now. Seems like a nice and handy little circuit they came up with
> for QRP'ers.
Well that amp should not be necessary.
I just did a simulation of the Tx Driver circuit in SPICE. It provides 22 dB of
gain and can supply 240 milliwatts into a 10 Ohm load with approximately 1.5
milliwatts of drive from a 50 Ohm source. The 2SC2166 with 100 milliwatts of
drive will deliver 5.8 watts out at 12 volts Vcc, 6.3 watts out at 13 volts Vcc,
and 6.8 watts out at 14 volts Vcc. If you up the drive to 200 milliwatts, the
outputs shown above increase by nominally 20%.
>
> I have constructed the audio derived S meter from the QRP Design
> Notebook (I had done this also for my Oak Hills rig). The circuit
> and meter works and adjusts OK, but when I turn up the volume all
> the way, then the output on the meter goes down like 3dB with that
> last little turn (Increase) of the volume pot.
The input to the downstream amplifier might be providing some additional loading
at high inputs.
There is a MPF102
> buffer stage in the front end of the S meter board so I don't think
> it is loading down the audio. It does this whether I sample from the
> transformer output, (Which I don't want to do since its after the
> volume control), or if I sample from a LM380N circuit I have
> parallelled off the audio string right after the mute resistor. The
> LM380N circuit is an exact duplicate of the one from my Oak Hills
> Spirit II print. I had to install the amp because the S meter board
> needs a minimum level of audio to work,
Is that level specified??
and the audio preamp is not
> enough to even budge the needle on the most sensitive setting.
Sounds like it needs a fair amount of audio to operate correctly.
> So any ideas there as far as sampling, amping, or circuits would be
> appreciated as well since I know I am not the first one to put one
> of those on.
Actually, you may be! :-)
>
> Best Regards,
72 Aaron and thanks for the update. If you reach the point where you are totally
fed up with all of this, send me your rig to my call book address with return
postage and I'll put it on the bench and see what is going on.
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks for the selfless offer to look the rig over Jim, but I would
not wish that on anyone.
This one has some deeper problem(s) than a bad TX filter I am pretty
certain. Namely myself, lol. Low TX LO output, low VFO output, low
audio output(The S meter board input should be connected before the
volume control and power amplifier and not require a power amp of its
own)and of course my TX output debacle. Maybe low RX sensitivity - but
I don't know. I can usually hear 4-5 QSO's at a time in the afternoon
so I think thats pretty good.
Certainly I would not have gotten even this far without your constant
support and encouragement on the project though, Jim.
I learned alot from this 2N2/20 I think, and reading through the many
relevant posts here. I enjoyed trying the Manhattan Style, and
especially hearing 20m signals for the first time.
You guys experimenting and helping eachother embody the true spirit of
Amateur Radio IMO.
Thanks for the help, and I wish you all much continued success with
your projects.
Very best regards,
Aaron / N9SKN
|
3494|3491|2006-10-28 18:32:56|Jim Kortge|Re: N9SKN - 2N2/20 Update|n9skn wrote:
> Thanks for the selfless offer to look the rig over Jim, but I would
> not wish that on anyone.
> This one has some deeper problem(s) than a bad TX filter I am pretty
> certain. Namely myself, lol. Low TX LO output, low VFO output, low
> audio output(The S meter board input should be connected before the
> volume control and power amplifier and not require a power amp of its
> own)and of course my TX output debacle. Maybe low RX sensitivity - but
> I don't know. I can usually hear 4-5 QSO's at a time in the afternoon
> so I think thats pretty good.
>
> Certainly I would not have gotten even this far without your constant
> support and encouragement on the project though, Jim.
>
> I learned alot from this 2N2/20 I think, and reading through the many
> relevant posts here. I enjoyed trying the Manhattan Style, and
> especially hearing 20m signals for the first time.
>
> You guys experimenting and helping eachother embody the true spirit of
> Amateur Radio IMO.
>
> Thanks for the help, and I wish you all much continued success with
> your projects.
> Very best regards,
>
> Aaron / N9SKN
Aaron,
Don't look upon my offer to have a go with your rig on my lab's bench as
anything out of the ordinary. I've provided that service to many builders. There
are two benefits, I get to see how my designs are being executed, and that is
valuable feedback to me for future work, including documentation and the like.
The benefit to you is you get your rig back in a fully working state. Doesn't
get much better than that! :-)
One of the things I can't predict when I do a design is how "buildable" the
design really is since I only have a sample of one. When I start to see that
others are not able to build it and have it work correctly, then I get worried.
And it doesn't have to do with how neat or not the builder has executed the
construction. The design is supposed to be tolerant of those kinds of
variations. WJ2V's 2N2/40 and my original are stark examples of the diversity of
build, and yet, both rigs work great! So, if your's isn't performing, I'd kinda
like to know why. Let me know if you decide to send it, so I can be on the
lookout for it.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Jim for a great design and project. The 2n2-40 has a
bulletproof front end. It IS quiet. Took me awhile to determine that
it was working fine. I added audio AGC, an SKC keyer, S-meter, Dig.
readout-Kd1jv. I have to mount it in an enclosure so I can't tweak/add
on anymore.
I read all the posts starting at no. 1. It was very impressive how all
chipped in and cooperated finding and acquiring all the parts. It also
answered a few questions I had. I built the 2n2-40 several months ago.
Other than a miss-marked 470 ohm resistor (it was 47 ohm) it worked on
the first smoke test (with the correct resistor) .
I lost most of my test equip. during the flood here in Guerneville.
Scope-sig gen etc... I ordered the NORCAL FCC-1 and 2 along with the
AADE LC meter. Glad I did - I encourage anyone interested in HB
equipment to buy the above 2 pieces of test gear. Gotta buy another
scope! Anyone have a TEK 565 laying around?
Question. Has anyone built the 2n2-15 receiver? I have 90% of the
parts together and anticipate having 100% parts next week. As soon as
I get my license renewed, I will try out the 2n2-40 on the air. Sounds
great into a dummy load!
Thanks again Jim.
Roy
|
3496|3495|2006-11-06 15:29:08|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-40/2n2-15|Hi Roy,
Thanks for sending your email to the group.
roylds wrote:
> Thanks Jim for a great design and project. The 2n2-40 has a
> bulletproof front end. It IS quiet. Took me awhile to determine that
> it was working fine. I added audio AGC,
I and others would be interested in your implementation of AGC. Can you describe
your approach to implementing AGC in your 2N2/40?
an SKC keyer, S-meter, Dig.
> readout-Kd1jv. I have to mount it in an enclosure so I can't tweak/add
> on anymore.
Yes, I truely understand that comment!
>
> I read all the posts starting at no. 1. It was very impressive how all
> chipped in and cooperated finding and acquiring all the parts. It also
> answered a few questions I had. I built the 2n2-40 several months ago.
> Other than a miss-marked 470 ohm resistor (it was 47 ohm) it worked on
> the first smoke test (with the correct resistor) .
That's great to hear. Have you upgraded the design to the 2N2/40+ version with
the revised front-end RF amp and the other changes?
>
> I lost most of my test equip. during the flood here in Guerneville.
> Scope-sig gen etc...
Bummer.....I don't know what I would do if I lost the gear in my lab. It is so
helpful when doing a new design or testing a new circuit to see how it is really
behaving.
I ordered the NORCAL FCC-1 and 2 along with the
> AADE LC meter. Glad I did - I encourage anyone interested in HB
> equipment to buy the above 2 pieces of test gear.
I can second that. I've been using an AADE L/C meter since they first came out
and it works so well when winding toroids or testing unknown inductors gleened
from other electronics. The FCC-1/FCC-2 combo is also a very nice low cost
signal generator and can be extended in frequency with mixers. I'm using one as
the VFO in my 2-Band SSB/CW rig that I'm working on. Works great!!
Gotta buy another
> scope! Anyone have a TEK 565 laying around?
Not me, but I wish I did. Another of the "workhorse" Tek scopes.
>
> Question. Has anyone built the 2n2-15 receiver?
Yes, Dennis, WB0WAO? up in the northern part of Michigan built one. I've never
seen it, but he says it works great. I like mine and should do the transmit
strip for that rig someday! I've been saying that for the last 5 years I'll
bet! :-)
I have 90% of the
> parts together and anticipate having 100% parts next week.
Sounds like your are seriously going to build the receiver. Keep us posted as
you go along OK?
As soon as
> I get my license renewed, I will try out the 2n2-40 on the air. Sounds
> great into a dummy load!
Let us know and severaly of us can work you with our 2N2/40 rigs.
>
> Thanks again Jim.
You bet Roy, and many thanks again for the update on your activities. Most
appreciated.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
Ft. Wayne is coming up and they're having a QRP forum on Nov. 18 at
3PM.
I know it's a pretty good drive for you, but, is there any chance that
you might attend ?
Brad, WA5PSA has already started laying out his PCB and I'll be
starting my 2N2_20 this weekend.
I'd like to meet you and bounce a few questions off you, if you're
going to be there.
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3498|3495|2006-11-07 16:29:21|roylds|Re: 2n2-40/2n2-15|--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
Jim.
Thanks for the response. I will start the 2n2\15 RX tomorrow. I will
keep you posted as I go.
> I and others would be interested in your implementation of AGC.
Can you describe your approach to implementing AGC in your 2N2/40?
AGC is very basic. I used a MC3340 atten. chip (see ARRL handbook -
93, page 30-29) Using audio from the speaker to a small xistor amp
with rectified output is used to drive a pnp xistor connected to pin
2 of the 3340 which is inserted between the mute output and the
audio pot. A pot is used set the max level wanted...It does the job
well. If interested, I can draw it up - and I have a few extra
MC3340 chips.
I built the 2n2\40+ version. Kept it stock. At least it was in the
beginning. For the most part it was used as a test bed for another
project. It has been returned to stock in prep for enclosurizing.
Ah yes, the 2n2\15 TR strip. Should I hold my breath? I turn blue
quickly.
How long has it been on the back burner?
HMMMM - I have back burnered projects that are 20+ years old!
I'll leave room for the TX strip.
I'm excited. Think I will start warming up the iron now so it will
be stabilized in the morning. ;)
Again, thanks Jim.
72
Roy
I'd be interested in seeing the schematics .... I should have about 8
of those from an automated mixer project from the late '80's (I used a
spare C=64 as the brain) ... I didn't use them because they couldn't
take the high signal levels in a pro level mixing board without
excessive distortion but in a receiver where the audio levels are much
lower they should work pretty good .... This might also be a nice
add-on to the R2-Pro I'm building
JR
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "roylds" wrote:
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> Jim.
> Thanks for the response. I will start the 2n2\15 RX tomorrow. I will
> keep you posted as I go.
>
> > I and others would be interested in your implementation of AGC.
> Can you describe your approach to implementing AGC in your 2N2/40?
>
> AGC is very basic. I used a MC3340 atten. chip (see ARRL handbook -
> 93, page 30-29) Using audio from the speaker to a small xistor amp
> with rectified output is used to drive a pnp xistor connected to pin
> 2 of the 3340 which is inserted between the mute output and the
> audio pot. A pot is used set the max level wanted...It does the job
> well. If interested, I can draw it up - and I have a few extra
> MC3340 chips.
>
> I built the 2n2\40+ version. Kept it stock. At least it was in the
> beginning. For the most part it was used as a test bed for another
> project. It has been returned to stock in prep for enclosurizing.
>
> Ah yes, the 2n2\15 TR strip. Should I hold my breath? I turn blue
> quickly.
> How long has it been on the back burner?
> HMMMM - I have back burnered projects that are 20+ years old!
> I'll leave room for the TX strip.
>
> I'm excited. Think I will start warming up the iron now so it will
> be stabilized in the morning. ;)
>
> Again, thanks Jim.
>
> 72
> Roy
>
jr_dakota wrote:
> I'd be interested in seeing the schematics ....
JR and others....take a look here:
http://www.k8iqy.com/qrprigs/2n215/2n215rxschematics.htm Also, if you go to my web site: www.k8iqy.com and look under the various rigs,
you will find all of the published info on the 2N2/15 Rx design that I've
published to date. It's quite old and needs to be updated, but that could be
said of much of what is on my web site. Too many projects, too little time!!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
roylds wrote:
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> Jim.
> Thanks for the response. I will start the 2n2\15 RX tomorrow. I will
> keep you posted as I go.
>
OK, great. Others may be interested in your build also.
>
>>I and others would be interested in your implementation of AGC.
>
> Can you describe your approach to implementing AGC in your 2N2/40?
>
> AGC is very basic. I used a MC3340 atten. chip (see ARRL handbook -
> 93, page 30-29) Using audio from the speaker to a small xistor amp
> with rectified output is used to drive a pnp xistor connected to pin
> 2 of the 3340 which is inserted between the mute output and the
> audio pot. A pot is used set the max level wanted...It does the job
> well. If interested, I can draw it up - and I have a few extra
> MC3340 chips.
That's a nice approach. Too bad the MC3340 is history. I tracked down a data
sheet for that part and it is a nice chip. I'm still searching the various IC
manufacturers to see if a modern part is available. So far, nothing too
promising that isn't a current hog.
>
> I built the 2n2\40+ version. Kept it stock. At least it was in the
> beginning. For the most part it was used as a test bed for another
> project. It has been returned to stock in prep for enclosurizing.
Very good. I was thinking one might be able to do a decent AGC implementation by
adding another transistor in the emitter path of the audio amp and shunting
current away from it based on signal level. I may give that a whirl to see how
it works. At least model it to see what happens. I'll post the results to the
2n2-40 group.
>
> Ah yes, the 2n2\15 TR strip. Should I hold my breath? I turn blue
> quickly.
> How long has it been on the back burner?
> HMMMM - I have back burnered projects that are 20+ years old!
> I'll leave room for the TX strip.
It's been on the back burner for at least 5-years. When I started that project,
15 was open everyday and most days really cooking with DX. The current sunspot
conditions axed that for a few more years.....
>
> I'm excited. Think I will start warming up the iron now so it will
> be stabilized in the morning. ;)
Now that's what I call enthusiasm!!
>
> Again, thanks Jim.
>
You bet Roy; happy building and 72 for now,
Jim, K8IQY
redbudpub wrote:
> Jim:
Greetings Brad,
>
> Dumb question. I'm building the 2n2/20. I've got a ready supply of
> 1n4148's (ratshack). I note that the 2n2/20 uses several 1n5711's.
> Can I substitute the 1n4148's.
Yes, those will work fine!
Right now I'm in the RX Mute section,
> but I also noticed them in the product detector. I'm doing my build
> backwards (audio amp then rx mute... etc.), so I haven't gotten to the
> product detector yet.
The performance will suffer a tiny bit, but unless you have some really good
test equipment, you won't be able to measure it.
>
> Hey...the audio amp works!
That's nice to hear!! :-)
>
> I'm trying to move beyond the "solder practice" of mere kit building.
> That's why I picked the 2n2 series to play with. I'm going real slow
> and plan on playing with/testing each circuit as I go so I can learn
> it. I'm even doing LTSpice models as I go along to, so I can learn
> that software. Teaches me alot.
You bet.....that's that way to learn. Take your time and absorb all you can
along the way. I'm still doing that everyday with my projects.
I could be a year building this
> thing.
That's OK, you're not on the clock with this project.
But I've already got a 20M qrp rig. I'm building it to learn
> electronics.
Good for you. I think you'll have lots of fun, learn a lot as you go, and end up
with a solid performing rig in the end. Doesn't get much better than that.
>
> Thanks and 73
Thanks for the update and have fun. Keep me and the group in the loop as you go
along OK?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Greetings all,
I have a good number (20+???) of the audio transformers someone sent
me from the group build / buy we did of this radio way back in 2001.
I don't need them and would like them to go to a new home where they
might be used.
First person to reply to me at
mrjohnwagner@gmail.com can have them,
I'll even pay the postage. :)
73,
John, N1QO
John Wagner wrote:
> Greetings all,
>
> I have a good number (20+???) of the audio transformers someone sent
> me from the group build / buy we did of this radio way back in 2001.
>
> I don't need them and would like them to go to a new home where they
> might be used.
>
> First person to reply to me at mrjohnwagner@gmail.com can have them,
> I'll even pay the postage. :)
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
John,
Thanks for your kind offer.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
John
Thanks so much for the transformers they showed up today.....
Steve NU0P
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
John Wagner
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 3:49 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] audio transformers - free to a good home
Greetings all,
I have a good number (20+???) of the audio transformers someone sent me from
the group build / buy we did of this radio way back in 2001.
I don't need them and would like them to go to a new home where they might
be used.
First person to reply to me at
mrjohnwagner@gmail.com can have them, I'll
even pay the postage. :)
73,
John, N1QO
Yahoo! Groups Links
Great Steve - thanks for letting me know.
On 11/30/06, Steve NU0P <stever1k@mchsi.com> wrote:
>
> John
>
> Thanks so much for the transformers they showed up today.....
>
> Steve NU0P
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <2n2-40%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:
> 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <2n2-40%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of
> John Wagner
> Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 3:49 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <2n2-40%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [2n2-40] audio transformers - free to a good home
>
> Greetings all,
>
> I have a good number (20+???) of the audio transformers someone sent me
> from
> the group build / buy we did of this radio way back in 2001.
>
> I don't need them and would like them to go to a new home where they might
> be used.
>
> First person to reply to me at mrjohnwagner@gmail.comcan have them, I'll
> even pay the postage. :)
>
> 73,
>
> John, N1QO
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
--
John Wagner
john@wagner-usa.net
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Brad, WA5PSA, and I have posted separately here before, but, I
haven't seen much activity of late.
Just to update the group, Brad and I, WA5PSE, have actually commenced
construction of our respective 2N2_20 rigs.
We've both gotten the audio power amp and keying circuits completed
and neither one of us has had any problems getting them to work, and,
I have already found opportunities to make changes to our respective
builds.
One of the two changes I'm making are to the audio amp coupling
cap...The amp seemed a bit tinny to me, so, I bumped the capacitance
up to 1 mf from .1 mf.
Also, the recovery of the receive mute circuit was real slow...that
didn't seem very conducive to QSK...So will be bumping the 1 meg
resistor way down to some comfortable value...maybe even put in a pot
to control that.
I spent an evening sorting and packaging the components to build the
various modules in little individual coin envelopes.
Last evening I pulled out the T/R and Mute envelopes and assembled
those circuits in something like 15 to 20 minutes...
That was a snap....Definitely the way to go!
More, later, as things progress...Mike, WA5PSE
|
3508|3507|2007-01-09 19:14:29|Jim Kortge|Re: New 2N2_20's on the build|k9qb wrote:
> Brad, WA5PSA, and I have posted separately here before, but, I
> haven't seen much activity of late.
>
> Just to update the group, Brad and I, WA5PSE, have actually commenced
> construction of our respective 2N2_20 rigs.
>
> We've both gotten the audio power amp and keying circuits completed
> and neither one of us has had any problems getting them to work, and,
> I have already found opportunities to make changes to our respective
> builds.
>
> One of the two changes I'm making are to the audio amp coupling
> cap...The amp seemed a bit tinny to me, so, I bumped the capacitance
> up to 1 mf from .1 mf.
>
> Also, the recovery of the receive mute circuit was real slow...that
> didn't seem very conducive to QSK...So will be bumping the 1 meg
> resistor way down to some comfortable value...maybe even put in a pot
> to control that.
>
> I spent an evening sorting and packaging the components to build the
> various modules in little individual coin envelopes.
> Last evening I pulled out the T/R and Mute envelopes and assembled
> those circuits in something like 15 to 20 minutes...
> That was a snap....Definitely the way to go!
>
> More, later, as things progress...Mike, WA5PSE
Mike,
Thanks for the progress report. I (for one) am very interested in how the builds
that you and Brad are doing are coming along.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
Just another update from WA5PSE...
Please don't be confused by the call and username discrepancy...I went
back to my old call...Call it low "will-power", whatever...my oldest,
bestest bud, Brad, WA5PSA, just bugged me til I caved and re-acquired
the original call.
We got our tickets together back in'66 and today we're both working on
our own versions of Jim's 2N2_20's.
This is a total blast!!
Brad and I have been "co-opping" purchasing the parts...then when we
started building...he jumped out in front by getting his audio PA
working.
I learned about that development when he called me and played
some "Solder Smoke" with his Ipod, through the 2N2_20 speaker circuit
and into the telephone.
Now, I've had one of those "growth spurts" and got my project complete
up to the Rcv Input Filter..
Next step will be the VFO...Then, I will actually have enough rcvr
built to receive a 14 mhz sig from the old tube type, RCA sig-gen I
picked up for $5 at the Ft. Wayne,IN Hamfest.
Using my trusty old MFJ noise bridge, I can hear the pinched 11 mhz
noise real well...also,I can change the noise pitch by tweaking the
BFO osc. trimmer cap...Cooollll.
55 years old and geakier than any 20 year old I know....
Yep, this is fun...
Mike WA5PSE
|
3510|3509|2007-01-28 06:14:56|redbudpub|Re: WA5PSE Progress...|All:
Don't listen to this man. The WA5PSE that I grew up with would
never admit that he's old enough to have gotten his license in 1966!
This can't be the same person I took my novice test with.
Yes, I pulled ahead of Mike early, and got the audio chain
working. However, as you can see, that's just because I got to the
soldering iron before Mike did. Once he got going, he blasted right
past me.
But, everyone must remember... Mike is an electronics technician; I
was an English major. So Mike jabbers about things like impedence
matching and I'm just impressed with shiny things and speaker
sounds. It's tough being a liberal arts major!
However, I think we've got all our parts together now for the rest
of the build. If I can keep the cats off of the work table long
enough to do some soldering, I'll have my receiver done pretty soon
too.
One thing I'm doing is stopping at each stage and building a model
in LTSpice, just so I can play with stuff and 'sperment a little bit
and learn what's going on in the circuit without having to start any
actual fires.
Brad
WA5PSA
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "k9qb" wrote:
>
> Just another update from WA5PSE...
>
> Please don't be confused by the call and username discrepancy...I
went
> back to my old call...Call it low "will-power", whatever...my
oldest,
> bestest bud, Brad, WA5PSA, just bugged me til I caved and re-
acquired
> the original call.
>
> We got our tickets together back in'66 and today we're both working
on
> our own versions of Jim's 2N2_20's.
> This is a total blast!!
>
> Brad and I have been "co-opping" purchasing the parts...then when
we
> started building...he jumped out in front by getting his audio PA
> working.
> I learned about that development when he called me and played
> some "Solder Smoke" with his Ipod, through the 2N2_20 speaker
circuit
> and into the telephone.
>
> Now, I've had one of those "growth spurts" and got my project
complete
> up to the Rcv Input Filter..
> Next step will be the VFO...Then, I will actually have enough rcvr
> built to receive a 14 mhz sig from the old tube type, RCA sig-gen I
> picked up for $5 at the Ft. Wayne,IN Hamfest.
>
> Using my trusty old MFJ noise bridge, I can hear the pinched 11 mhz
> noise real well...also,I can change the noise pitch by tweaking the
> BFO osc. trimmer cap...Cooollll.
>
> 55 years old and geakier than any 20 year old I know....
> Yep, this is fun...
>
> Mike WA5PSE
>
Enjoyed hearing about your progress.
My 2N2-40 represents the highpoint of my fifty years in amateur radio.
What a rush when that first CW singal jumped out of the quite noise
floor. It was all great until I met Jim at Atlanticon a few years ago.
When I saw how beautiful he could make a Manhatan style project, I was
depressed for six months!
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
k9qb wrote:
> Just another update from WA5PSE...
>
> Please don't be confused by the call and username discrepancy...I went
> back to my old call...Call it low "will-power", whatever...my oldest,
> bestest bud, Brad, WA5PSA, just bugged me til I caved and re-acquired
> the original call.
>
> We got our tickets together back in'66 and today we're both working on
> our own versions of Jim's 2N2_20's.
> This is a total blast!!
>
> Brad and I have been "co-opping" purchasing the parts...then when we
> started building...he jumped out in front by getting his audio PA
> working.
> I learned about that development when he called me and played
> some "Solder Smoke" with his Ipod, through the 2N2_20 speaker circuit
> and into the telephone.
>
> Now, I've had one of those "growth spurts" and got my project complete
> up to the Rcv Input Filter..
> Next step will be the VFO...Then, I will actually have enough rcvr
> built to receive a 14 mhz sig from the old tube type, RCA sig-gen I
> picked up for $5 at the Ft. Wayne,IN Hamfest.
>
> Using my trusty old MFJ noise bridge, I can hear the pinched 11 mhz
> noise real well...also,I can change the noise pitch by tweaking the
> BFO osc. trimmer cap...Cooollll.
>
> 55 years old and geakier than any 20 year old I know....
> Yep, this is fun...
>
> Mike WA5PSE
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> k9qb wrote:
Hi Lee,
Thanks for the response....Yes, I can imagine how proud you were
when you finished your 2N2-40.
I'm very impressed with the designs evolving from the original 40m
work by Jim.
I've been involved in electronics repair and design, off and on, for
over 30 years and when my friend Brad mentioned the design, I had to
have a look.
I was surprised that in addition to the award winning 40m design,
Jim had designed and built so many other versions for the other
bands.
Then, when I looked at the 20m design in particular, I was really
impressed with what I saw as a competent and capable
transceiver...Among the things I really liked about it were the
crystal filter, the audio PA and especially that nifty receive
preamp.
And, guess what, we won't be whining about noisy op-amps!
It'd be absolutely marvelous to be able to build as nicely as Jim
does, and, it's a nice thing to strive for, but, when it's all boxed
up who's gonna see it?...
Besides that, nobody's gonna try and figure out, from MY example,
how to build the thing....Heaven help them if they try.
Mike
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Lee Mairs (SAG)" wrote:
>
> Enjoyed hearing about your progress.
>
> My 2N2-40 represents the highpoint of my fifty years in amateur
radio.
> What a rush when that first CW singal jumped out of the quite
noise
> floor. It was all great until I met Jim at Atlanticon a few years
ago.
> When I saw how beautiful he could make a Manhatan style project, I
was
> depressed for six months!
>
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY/8
>
>
>
> > Just another update from WA5PSE...
> >
> > Please don't be confused by the call and username
discrepancy...I went
> > back to my old call...Call it low "will-power", whatever...my
oldest,
> > bestest bud, Brad, WA5PSA, just bugged me til I caved and re-
acquired
> > the original call.
> >
> > We got our tickets together back in'66 and today we're both
working on
> > our own versions of Jim's 2N2_20's.
> > This is a total blast!!
> >
> > Brad and I have been "co-opping" purchasing the parts...then
when we
> > started building...he jumped out in front by getting his audio
PA
> > working.
> > I learned about that development when he called me and played
> > some "Solder Smoke" with his Ipod, through the 2N2_20 speaker
circuit
> > and into the telephone.
> >
> > Now, I've had one of those "growth spurts" and got my project
complete
> > up to the Rcv Input Filter..
> > Next step will be the VFO...Then, I will actually have enough
rcvr
> > built to receive a 14 mhz sig from the old tube type, RCA sig-
gen I
> > picked up for $5 at the Ft. Wayne,IN Hamfest.
> >
> > Using my trusty old MFJ noise bridge, I can hear the pinched 11
mhz
> > noise real well...also,I can change the noise pitch by tweaking
the
> > BFO osc. trimmer cap...Cooollll.
> >
> > 55 years old and geakier than any 20 year old I know....
> > Yep, this is fun...
> >
> > Mike WA5PSE
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Mike -\
Well I must that my biggest mistake was making a plexiglass cover for
mine to protect it when I took it to Show n'Tell at all the local
clubs. Then, along comes Jim with this piece of art that belongs in the
Louvre...
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
k9qb wrote:
>> k9qb wrote:
>>
> Hi Lee,
>
> Thanks for the response....Yes, I can imagine how proud you were
> when you finished your 2N2-40.
>
> I'm very impressed with the designs evolving from the original 40m
> work by Jim.
>
> I've been involved in electronics repair and design, off and on, for
> over 30 years and when my friend Brad mentioned the design, I had to
> have a look.
> I was surprised that in addition to the award winning 40m design,
> Jim had designed and built so many other versions for the other
> bands.
>
> Then, when I looked at the 20m design in particular, I was really
> impressed with what I saw as a competent and capable
> transceiver...Among the things I really liked about it were the
> crystal filter, the audio PA and especially that nifty receive
> preamp.
> And, guess what, we won't be whining about noisy op-amps!
>
> It'd be absolutely marvelous to be able to build as nicely as Jim
> does, and, it's a nice thing to strive for, but, when it's all boxed
> up who's gonna see it?...
> Besides that, nobody's gonna try and figure out, from MY example,
> how to build the thing....Heaven help them if they try.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Lee Mairs (SAG)" wrote:
>
>> Enjoyed hearing about your progress.
>>
>> My 2N2-40 represents the highpoint of my fifty years in amateur
>>
> radio.
>
>> What a rush when that first CW singal jumped out of the quite
>>
> noise
>
>> floor. It was all great until I met Jim at Atlanticon a few years
>>
> ago.
>
>> When I saw how beautiful he could make a Manhatan style project, I
>>
> was
>
>> depressed for six months!
>>
>> 73 de Lee
>> KM4YY/8
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> Just another update from WA5PSE...
>>>
>>> Please don't be confused by the call and username
>>>
> discrepancy...I went
>
>>> back to my old call...Call it low "will-power", whatever...my
>>>
> oldest,
>
>>> bestest bud, Brad, WA5PSA, just bugged me til I caved and re-
>>>
> acquired
>
>>> the original call.
>>>
>>> We got our tickets together back in'66 and today we're both
>>>
> working on
>
>>> our own versions of Jim's 2N2_20's.
>>> This is a total blast!!
>>>
>>> Brad and I have been "co-opping" purchasing the parts...then
>>>
> when we
>
>>> started building...he jumped out in front by getting his audio
>>>
> PA
>
>>> working.
>>> I learned about that development when he called me and played
>>> some "Solder Smoke" with his Ipod, through the 2N2_20 speaker
>>>
> circuit
>
>>> and into the telephone.
>>>
>>> Now, I've had one of those "growth spurts" and got my project
>>>
> complete
>
>>> up to the Rcv Input Filter..
>>> Next step will be the VFO...Then, I will actually have enough
>>>
> rcvr
>
>>> built to receive a 14 mhz sig from the old tube type, RCA sig-
>>>
> gen I
>
>>> picked up for $5 at the Ft. Wayne,IN Hamfest.
>>>
>>> Using my trusty old MFJ noise bridge, I can hear the pinched 11
>>>
> mhz
>
>>> noise real well...also,I can change the noise pitch by tweaking
>>>
> the
>
>>> BFO osc. trimmer cap...Cooollll.
>>>
>>> 55 years old and geakier than any 20 year old I know....
>>> Yep, this is fun...
>>>
>>> Mike WA5PSE
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Lee,
Don't feel bad, Jim and Chuck Adams are the gods of Manhattan
construction. I've seen examples of their work at Pacificon and was
both stunned and slack-jawed in awe. I could attempt to do so well
but know I'll never make it, HA!
Craftsmen of the highest order to be sure.
73.......Steve Smith WB6TNL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3515|3515|2007-01-31 13:58:33|k9qb|2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...|Since these radios are scratch-built affairs, there's obviously no way
of keeping track of how many of what version are being built.
Some guys build things like this and may never utter a peep. While
others, like myself, enjoy the friendships established in forums like
this one, along the way.
I'm interested in learning how many of these things have been completed
and how many are in progress.
There's a reason for this interest...I'm hoping that when I get the
2N2_20 complete and de-bugged, to see if there's any interest in an on-
the-air "round-up" where some of the builders of the 2N2_20 can meet.
Has this been done with the other variants like the 2N2_40?
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3516|3515|2007-01-31 15:19:01|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...|k9qb wrote:
> Since these radios are scratch-built affairs, there's obviously no way
> of keeping track of how many of what version are being built.
Sort of true, but several of the /20s have been built, along with many /40s.
There were at least 3 group builds of /40 and 40+ versions over the years.
Preston Douglas, WJ2V used to offer "Certificates" for those completing a 2N2/40
and making a contact with it. I worked several of those "first contacts", both
on 20 and 40 meters.
Jeff, K8GD has built a 2N2/30, and others may have also that I don't know about
or don't remember.
>
> Some guys build things like this and may never utter a peep. While
> others, like myself, enjoy the friendships established in forums like
> this one, along the way.
Most of the builders I think have joined the 2N2/XX group I belive to get help
along the way or just to let others know they were building a rig.
>
> I'm interested in learning how many of these things have been completed
> and how many are in progress.
Lots of 2N2/40 in progress is you count the number of crystal filter cyrstal
sets I've sold along the way. Something over 300 sets of them for various group
builds and onesie, twosies along the way.
>
> There's a reason for this interest...I'm hoping that when I get the
> 2N2_20 complete and de-bugged, to see if there's any interest in an on-
> the-air "round-up" where some of the builders of the 2N2_20 can meet.
I'd be happy to join you. Just name the time and place. Other will join also I'm
sure.
>
> Has this been done with the other variants like the 2N2_40?
Yep.... And with the 2N2/30 too.
Thanks for the update Mike. Sounds like you and Brad are having loads of fun.
Maybe I should build something this afternoon to ward off the winter blues.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Mike,
Glad to hear you're having so much fun building the 2N2-20. I've built both the 40+ and the 20 and had a ball building both. I tend to build, make a contact or two and move on to another project but would join in a "round-up".
Bob
wb6kwt
k9qb <
k9qb@yahoo.com> wrote: Since these radios are scratch-built affairs, there's obviously no way
of keeping track of how many of what version are being built.
Some guys build things like this and may never utter a peep. While
others, like myself, enjoy the friendships established in forums like
this one, along the way.
I'm interested in learning how many of these things have been completed
and how many are in progress.
There's a reason for this interest...I'm hoping that when I get the
2N2_20 complete and de-bugged, to see if there's any interest in an on-
the-air "round-up" where some of the builders of the 2N2_20 can meet.
Has this been done with the other variants like the 2N2_40?
Mike, WA5PSE
---------------------------------
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
This is my first post although I've been reading this list for some time
now.
I started on my 2n2/20 a couple of weeks ago.
The receiver is working as of yesterday. I had some problems at first
keeping the Rx RF amp from oscillating but, after re-arranging my layout
it's doing great now.
I'll finish the rig but still need to get proficient with the CW and upgrade
my license before you will hear me on the air.
73 to all
Nate, KC8YRZ
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Jim Kortge
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 3:17 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
k9qb wrote:
> Since these radios are scratch-built affairs, there's obviously no way
> of keeping track of how many of what version are being built.
Sort of true, but several of the /20s have been built, along with many
/40s.
There were at least 3 group builds of /40 and 40+ versions over the years.
Preston Douglas, WJ2V used to offer "Certificates" for those completing a
2N2/40
and making a contact with it. I worked several of those "first contacts",
both
on 20 and 40 meters.
Jeff, K8GD has built a 2N2/30, and others may have also that I don't know
about
or don't remember.
>
> Some guys build things like this and may never utter a peep. While
> others, like myself, enjoy the friendships established in forums like
> this one, along the way.
Most of the builders I think have joined the 2N2/XX group I belive to get
help
along the way or just to let others know they were building a rig.
>
> I'm interested in learning how many of these things have been completed
> and how many are in progress.
Lots of 2N2/40 in progress is you count the number of crystal filter
cyrstal
sets I've sold along the way. Something over 300 sets of them for various
group
builds and onesie, twosies along the way.
>
> There's a reason for this interest...I'm hoping that when I get the
> 2N2_20 complete and de-bugged, to see if there's any interest in an on-
> the-air "round-up" where some of the builders of the 2N2_20 can meet.
I'd be happy to join you. Just name the time and place. Other will join
also I'm
sure.
>
> Has this been done with the other variants like the 2N2_40?
Yep.... And with the 2N2/30 too.
Thanks for the update Mike. Sounds like you and Brad are having loads of
fun.
Maybe I should build something this afternoon to ward off the winter
blues.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Oh darn, you're gonna make Brad and me look real bad...we're having
this kind of "mosying race" getting ours done...
Isn't it fun to build something, and, even if, or, especially when
you run into trouble, figure it out to get the upper hand!...That's
learning at it's best.
Don't feel bad about you cw prowess...when I send straight key, I get
accused of using the big toe of my left foot.
(Can you athlete's ear copying poorly sent cw??)
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan DeLong" wrote:
>
> This is my first post although I've been reading this list for some
time
> now.
> I started on my 2n2/20 a couple of weeks ago.
> The receiver is working as of yesterday. I had some problems at
first
> keeping the Rx RF amp from oscillating but, after re-arranging my
layout
> it's doing great now.
> I'll finish the rig but still need to get proficient with the CW
and upgrade
> my license before you will hear me on the air.
> 73 to all
> Nate, KC8YRZ
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of
> Jim Kortge
> Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 3:17 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
>
>
>
>
> k9qb wrote:
> > Since these radios are scratch-built affairs, there's obviously
no way
> > of keeping track of how many of what version are being built.
>
> Sort of true, but several of the /20s have been built, along with
many
> /40s.
> There were at least 3 group builds of /40 and 40+ versions over
the years.
> Preston Douglas, WJ2V used to offer "Certificates" for those
completing a
> 2N2/40
> and making a contact with it. I worked several of those "first
contacts",
> both
> on 20 and 40 meters.
>
> Jeff, K8GD has built a 2N2/30, and others may have also that I
don't know
> about
> or don't remember.
> >
> > Some guys build things like this and may never utter a peep.
While
> > others, like myself, enjoy the friendships established in
forums like
> > this one, along the way.
>
> Most of the builders I think have joined the 2N2/XX group I
belive to get
> help
> along the way or just to let others know they were building a rig.
> >
> > I'm interested in learning how many of these things have been
completed
> > and how many are in progress.
>
> Lots of 2N2/40 in progress is you count the number of crystal
filter
> cyrstal
> sets I've sold along the way. Something over 300 sets of them for
various
> group
> builds and onesie, twosies along the way.
> >
> > There's a reason for this interest...I'm hoping that when I get
the
> > 2N2_20 complete and de-bugged, to see if there's any interest
in an on-
> > the-air "round-up" where some of the builders of the 2N2_20 can
meet.
>
> I'd be happy to join you. Just name the time and place. Other
will join
> also I'm
> sure.
>
> >
> > Has this been done with the other variants like the 2N2_40?
>
> Yep.... And with the 2N2/30 too.
>
> Thanks for the update Mike. Sounds like you and Brad are having
loads of
> fun.
> Maybe I should build something this afternoon to ward off the
winter
> blues.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
BTW Nate, your post reminds of a saying about the difference between
oscillators and amplifiers...because, as you learned, the difference
can be quite subtle.
It goes something like this...
An amplifier is an oscillator that doesn't and an oscillator is an
amplifier that does!
I love wise old sayings...Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan DeLong" wrote:
>
> This is my first post although I've been reading this list for some
time
> now.
> I started on my 2n2/20 a couple of weeks ago.
> The receiver is working as of yesterday. I had some problems at
first
> keeping the Rx RF amp from oscillating but, after re-arranging my
layout
> it's doing great now.
> I'll finish the rig but still need to get proficient with the CW
and upgrade
> my license before you will hear me on the air.
> 73 to all
> Nate, KC8YRZ
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of
> Jim Kortge
> Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 3:17 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
>
>
>
>
> k9qb wrote:
> > Since these radios are scratch-built affairs, there's obviously
no way
> > of keeping track of how many of what version are being built.
>
> Sort of true, but several of the /20s have been built, along with
many
> /40s.
> There were at least 3 group builds of /40 and 40+ versions over
the years.
> Preston Douglas, WJ2V used to offer "Certificates" for those
completing a
> 2N2/40
> and making a contact with it. I worked several of those "first
contacts",
> both
> on 20 and 40 meters.
>
> Jeff, K8GD has built a 2N2/30, and others may have also that I
don't know
> about
> or don't remember.
> >
> > Some guys build things like this and may never utter a peep.
While
> > others, like myself, enjoy the friendships established in
forums like
> > this one, along the way.
>
> Most of the builders I think have joined the 2N2/XX group I
belive to get
> help
> along the way or just to let others know they were building a rig.
> >
> > I'm interested in learning how many of these things have been
completed
> > and how many are in progress.
>
> Lots of 2N2/40 in progress is you count the number of crystal
filter
> cyrstal
> sets I've sold along the way. Something over 300 sets of them for
various
> group
> builds and onesie, twosies along the way.
> >
> > There's a reason for this interest...I'm hoping that when I get
the
> > 2N2_20 complete and de-bugged, to see if there's any interest
in an on-
> > the-air "round-up" where some of the builders of the 2N2_20 can
meet.
>
> I'd be happy to join you. Just name the time and place. Other
will join
> also I'm
> sure.
>
> >
> > Has this been done with the other variants like the 2N2_40?
>
> Yep.... And with the 2N2/30 too.
>
> Thanks for the update Mike. Sounds like you and Brad are having
loads of
> fun.
> Maybe I should build something this afternoon to ward off the
winter
> blues.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Yep, a fine line between amplifier and oscillator.
I'm still trying to get this Rx aligned. I still seem to have some
oscillations at some various points across the tuning range and have yet to
determine the cause or cure for that
Nate, KC8YRZ
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
k9qb
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 2:46 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
BTW Nate, your post reminds of a saying about the difference between
oscillators and amplifiers...because, as you learned, the difference
can be quite subtle.
It goes something like this...
An amplifier is an oscillator that doesn't and an oscillator is an
amplifier that does!
I love wise old sayings...Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan DeLong" wrote:
>
> This is my first post although I've been reading this list for some
time
> now.
> I started on my 2n2/20 a couple of weeks ago.
> The receiver is working as of yesterday. I had some problems at
first
> keeping the Rx RF amp from oscillating but, after re-arranging my
layout
> it's doing great now.
> I'll finish the rig but still need to get proficient with the CW
and upgrade
> my license before you will hear me on the air.
> 73 to all
> Nate, KC8YRZ
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of
> Jim Kortge
> Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 3:17 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
>
>
>
>
> k9qb wrote:
> > Since these radios are scratch-built affairs, there's obviously
no way
> > of keeping track of how many of what version are being built.
>
> Sort of true, but several of the /20s have been built, along with
many
> /40s.
> There were at least 3 group builds of /40 and 40+ versions over
the years.
> Preston Douglas, WJ2V used to offer "Certificates" for those
completing a
> 2N2/40
> and making a contact with it. I worked several of those "first
contacts",
> both
> on 20 and 40 meters.
>
> Jeff, K8GD has built a 2N2/30, and others may have also that I
don't know
> about
> or don't remember.
> >
> > Some guys build things like this and may never utter a peep.
While
> > others, like myself, enjoy the friendships established in
forums like
> > this one, along the way.
>
> Most of the builders I think have joined the 2N2/XX group I
belive to get
> help
> along the way or just to let others know they were building a rig.
> >
> > I'm interested in learning how many of these things have been
completed
> > and how many are in progress.
>
> Lots of 2N2/40 in progress is you count the number of crystal
filter
> cyrstal
> sets I've sold along the way. Something over 300 sets of them for
various
> group
> builds and onesie, twosies along the way.
> >
> > There's a reason for this interest...I'm hoping that when I get
the
> > 2N2_20 complete and de-bugged, to see if there's any interest
in an on-
> > the-air "round-up" where some of the builders of the 2N2_20 can
meet.
>
> I'd be happy to join you. Just name the time and place. Other
will join
> also I'm
> sure.
>
> >
> > Has this been done with the other variants like the 2N2_40?
>
> Yep.... And with the 2N2/30 too.
>
> Thanks for the update Mike. Sounds like you and Brad are having
loads of
> fun.
> Maybe I should build something this afternoon to ward off the
winter
> blues.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
MIke,
It's an interesting observation you're making. I've noticed, the harder the
problem to solve, the longer I remember the solution. Simple problems seem
to just go in one ear, out the other, and just as quick forgotten.
--
73 - Mark - KA6WKE
http://ka6wke.blogspot.com/ On 2/1/07, k9qb <k9qb@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Oh darn, you're gonna make Brad and me look real bad...we're having
> this kind of "mosying race" getting ours done...
>
> Isn't it fun to build something, and, even if, or, especially when
> you run into trouble, figure it out to get the upper hand!...That's
> learning at it's best.
>
> Don't feel bad about you cw prowess...when I send straight key, I get
> accused of using the big toe of my left foot.
> (Can you athlete's ear copying poorly sent cw??)
>
> Mike, WA5PSE
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <2n2-40%40yahoogroups.com>, "Nathan DeLong"
> wrote:
> >
> > This is my first post although I've been reading this list for some
> time
> > now.
> > I started on my 2n2/20 a couple of weeks ago.
> > The receiver is working as of yesterday. I had some problems at
> first
> > keeping the Rx RF amp from oscillating but, after re-arranging my
> layout
> > it's doing great now.
> > I'll finish the rig but still need to get proficient with the CW
> and upgrade
> > my license before you will hear me on the air.
> > 73 to all
> > Nate, KC8YRZ
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <2n2-40%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:
> 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <2n2-40%40yahoogroups.com>]On
> Behalf Of
> > Jim Kortge
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 3:17 PM
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com <2n2-40%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > k9qb wrote:
> > > Since these radios are scratch-built affairs, there's obviously
> no way
> > > of keeping track of how many of what version are being built.
> >
> > Sort of true, but several of the /20s have been built, along with
> many
> > /40s.
> > There were at least 3 group builds of /40 and 40+ versions over
> the years.
> > Preston Douglas, WJ2V used to offer "Certificates" for those
> completing a
> > 2N2/40
> > and making a contact with it. I worked several of those "first
> contacts",
> > both
> > on 20 and 40 meters.
> >
> > Jeff, K8GD has built a 2N2/30, and others may have also that I
> don't know
> > about
> > or don't remember.
> > >
> > > Some guys build things like this and may never utter a peep.
> While
> > > others, like myself, enjoy the friendships established in
> forums like
> > > this one, along the way.
> >
> > Most of the builders I think have joined the 2N2/XX group I
> belive to get
> > help
> > along the way or just to let others know they were building a rig.
> > >
> > > I'm interested in learning how many of these things have been
> completed
> > > and how many are in progress.
> >
> > Lots of 2N2/40 in progress is you count the number of crystal
> filter
> > cyrstal
> > sets I've sold along the way. Something over 300 sets of them for
> various
> > group
> > builds and onesie, twosies along the way.
> > >
> > > There's a reason for this interest...I'm hoping that when I get
> the
> > > 2N2_20 complete and de-bugged, to see if there's any interest
> in an on-
> > > the-air "round-up" where some of the builders of the 2N2_20 can
> meet.
> >
> > I'd be happy to join you. Just name the time and place. Other
> will join
> > also I'm
> > sure.
> >
> > >
> > > Has this been done with the other variants like the 2N2_40?
> >
> > Yep.... And with the 2N2/30 too.
> >
> > Thanks for the update Mike. Sounds like you and Brad are having
> loads of
> > fun.
> > Maybe I should build something this afternoon to ward off the
> winter
> > blues.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Nathan DeLong wrote:
> Yep, a fine line between amplifier and oscillator.
> I'm still trying to get this Rx aligned. I still seem to have some
> oscillations at some various points across the tuning range and have yet to
> determine the cause or cure for that
> Nate, KC8YRZ
Nate,
Are you sure you have the phasing of the winding of the RF Amp toroid correct.
The one turn winding through the core that goes to the emitter is critical, If
the wrong end is connected to the emitter, the amp will oscillate like a
banshee. When it is right, the amp is conditionally stable. You'll know if it is
oscillating as the LED supplying the base voltage gets dim.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim/All:
I'm to the stage of building the Rx Roofing Filter in the 2n2/20.
This is a 2 crystal filter that lives just in front of the audio
chain. The radio has a 4 crystal main filter. From what I can tell,
this is a filter stage that you do not have in some of your other
designs. A couple questions for the liberal arts majors among us:
1. Why do you call this a roofing filter? My extensive (ten minutes
or so) research on the internet and EMRFD indicates that a roofing
filter usually goes at the front of the receiver chain. I'm not
really concerned about the terminology, but I just thought I'd ask.
2. If this is just more filtering, why not move these crystals into
the RX main filter? Is the purpose to provide some sort of band pass
filtering for unwanted products that come out of the IF amp, or is it
just more crystal poles meant to narrow the "skirt," etc.?
3. In your mind, do these crystals need to be "matched" to each
other? On the same note, do they need to be matched to the 4
crystals in the main filter?
I'm stopping at each stage of the 2n2/20 build to learn all I can
about that stage. At the rate I learn, this 20 M rig might be done in
time for the next solar max!
Mike, WA5PSE, is gonna be done with his long before me. But that's OK
because he stays a few stages ahead of me and is warning me of rough
spots and issues before I get there.
Thanks
Brad
WA5PSA
|
3525|3515|2007-02-02 11:51:35|Nathan DeLong|Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...|Jim,
Thanks for your response. I have tried the one-turn winding both ways and
the way I have it now is much quieter. None of the LEDs get dim.
I notice that when I tune to a noisy spot on the tuning range I can stop the
noise if I place my finger near T-7. But the noise always returns.
Not sure what to try next.
72,
Nate, KC8YRZ
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Jim Kortge
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 7:19 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
Nathan DeLong wrote:
> Yep, a fine line between amplifier and oscillator.
> I'm still trying to get this Rx aligned. I still seem to have some
> oscillations at some various points across the tuning range and have yet
to
> determine the cause or cure for that
> Nate, KC8YRZ
Nate,
Are you sure you have the phasing of the winding of the RF Amp toroid
correct.
The one turn winding through the core that goes to the emitter is
critical, If
the wrong end is connected to the emitter, the amp will oscillate like a
banshee. When it is right, the amp is conditionally stable. You'll know if
it is
oscillating as the LED supplying the base voltage gets dim.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Nate.
I had the same problem with the Norton Noisless Amp in the 2N2/20 when
I built mine. If the LED is coming on, it's a good chance you have
the phasing correct. I was getting oscillations up into the VHF
region (it's really easy seeing that if you have a spectrum analyzer).
When I was troubleshooting, I noticed that the transistor I used had
extremely high gain (hFE > 250). I had used a PN2222A in a TO-92
style case. I replace it with a 2N2222A in a TO-18 style case and the
problem went away. High transistor gain shouldn't cause that problem
in this circuit, but changing the transistor definitely fixed it.
Also, I would recommend using the TO-18 style case because that
transistor runs very hot in that amp, and you can make and put a small
heat sink on it very easily.
Give that a try and let us all know what fixes it.
72,
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan DeLong" wrote:
>
> Jim,
> Thanks for your response. I have tried the one-turn winding both
ways and
> the way I have it now is much quieter. None of the LEDs get dim.
> I notice that when I tune to a noisy spot on the tuning range I can
stop the
> noise if I place my finger near T-7. But the noise always returns.
> Not sure what to try next.
> 72,
> Nate, KC8YRZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of
> Jim Kortge
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 7:19 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
>
>
>
>
> Nathan DeLong wrote:
> > Yep, a fine line between amplifier and oscillator.
> > I'm still trying to get this Rx aligned. I still seem to have some
> > oscillations at some various points across the tuning range and
have yet
> to
> > determine the cause or cure for that
> > Nate, KC8YRZ
>
> Nate,
>
> Are you sure you have the phasing of the winding of the RF Amp toroid
> correct.
> The one turn winding through the core that goes to the emitter is
> critical, If
> the wrong end is connected to the emitter, the amp will oscillate
like a
> banshee. When it is right, the amp is conditionally stable. You'll
know if
> it is
> oscillating as the LED supplying the base voltage gets dim.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Hello Jim,
I'm ready to start building the RF PreAmp and noticed you have a
small shield panel next to it in your pictures.
Since it looks all silvery and all, I'm assuming or presuming that
it's ferrous material.
I've got some really cheap "ferrous" material in the form of a coffee
can.
It's flimsy material, but, it is ferrous. It's also very sharp when
trimmed with shears...I would prefer to work with PCB...it's easy to
use and fairly plentiful in my shack.
What I'm wondering is, does the shield need to be ferrous or can it
be a piece of PCB.
I know both copper and iron are used in shields, but, I'm not sure
when you would use one as opposed to the other.
It seems to me that ferrous material would have faraday properties
different from copper and that it would be preferred in certain
situations..
Since the shield in question is quite small and does not envelope the
PreAmp...I'am guessing it's mostly there to break up capacitive
coupling from other circuits...If that presumption is correct, then
I'd assume either the ferrous or PCB material would work equally well.
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3528|3515|2007-02-02 16:24:56|Nathan DeLong|Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...|Jeff,
I'll give that a try!
Thanks!
72,
Nate, KC8YRZ
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
dek8gd
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 3:30 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
Hi Nate.
I had the same problem with the Norton Noisless Amp in the 2N2/20 when
I built mine. If the LED is coming on, it's a good chance you have
the phasing correct. I was getting oscillations up into the VHF
region (it's really easy seeing that if you have a spectrum analyzer).
When I was troubleshooting, I noticed that the transistor I used had
extremely high gain (hFE > 250). I had used a PN2222A in a TO-92
style case. I replace it with a 2N2222A in a TO-18 style case and the
problem went away. High transistor gain shouldn't cause that problem
in this circuit, but changing the transistor definitely fixed it.
Also, I would recommend using the TO-18 style case because that
transistor runs very hot in that amp, and you can make and put a small
heat sink on it very easily.
Give that a try and let us all know what fixes it.
72,
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan DeLong" wrote:
>
> Jim,
> Thanks for your response. I have tried the one-turn winding both
ways and
> the way I have it now is much quieter. None of the LEDs get dim.
> I notice that when I tune to a noisy spot on the tuning range I can
stop the
> noise if I place my finger near T-7. But the noise always returns.
> Not sure what to try next.
> 72,
> Nate, KC8YRZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of
> Jim Kortge
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 7:19 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
>
>
>
>
> Nathan DeLong wrote:
> > Yep, a fine line between amplifier and oscillator.
> > I'm still trying to get this Rx aligned. I still seem to have some
> > oscillations at some various points across the tuning range and
have yet
> to
> > determine the cause or cure for that
> > Nate, KC8YRZ
>
> Nate,
>
> Are you sure you have the phasing of the winding of the RF Amp toroid
> correct.
> The one turn winding through the core that goes to the emitter is
> critical, If
> the wrong end is connected to the emitter, the amp will oscillate
like a
> banshee. When it is right, the amp is conditionally stable. You'll
know if
> it is
> oscillating as the LED supplying the base voltage gets dim.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
redbudpub wrote:
> Jim/All:
Greetings Brad,
>
> I'm to the stage of building the Rx Roofing Filter in the 2n2/20.
> This is a 2 crystal filter that lives just in front of the audio
> chain.
Well actually, in front of the 2nd mixer or Product Detector.
The radio has a 4 crystal main filter. From what I can tell,
> this is a filter stage that you do not have in some of your other
> designs.
That is a correct observation. The other rigs would benefit from the added
2-pole filter.
A couple questions for the liberal arts majors among us:
>
> 1. Why do you call this a roofing filter? My extensive (ten minutes
> or so) research on the internet and EMRFD indicates that a roofing
> filter usually goes at the front of the receiver chain.
My understanding of roofing filters is they keep out intermod products produced
in a preceeding stage. If I'm wrong, it wouldn't be the first time! In this
case, this filter reduces or eliminates (depending on frequencies involved) any
intermod products created in the IF Amplifier, and also reduces the broadband
noise generated in the IF Amplifier and keeps those products and noise from
being mixed in the Product Detector or 2nd Mixer stage. If those products get to
the mixer, they may well end up in the audio. Once you have the receiver done,
you can short out those extra two crystals and hear the difference in noise
level coming from the speaker. It's rather dramatic!
I'm not
> really concerned about the terminology, but I just thought I'd ask.
>
> 2. If this is just more filtering, why not move these crystals into
> the RX main filter?
Wouldn't help with the "junk" created in the IF Amplifier stage. 4-poles in the
main filter does a very good job, yielding excellent opposite sideband rejection.
Is the purpose to provide some sort of band pass
> filtering for unwanted products that come out of the IF amp,
Yep....and the noise that get generated in the IF Amp.
or is it
> just more crystal poles meant to narrow the "skirt," etc.?
Well it does that too, but the main purpose is to clean up the output of the IF
Amplifier.
>
> 3. In your mind, do these crystals need to be "matched" to each
> other?
Yes, within maybe 100 Hz or so. No need to go nuts here as it is only a two pole
filter.
On the same note, do they need to be matched to the 4
> crystals in the main filter?
Yes, prefrerably within about 50 Hz across the spread of the crystal set. When I
offer matched filter sets, the crystals are usually within 10 Hz end to end, and
always within 20 Hz. Makes for good filter characteristics. BTW, I have a good
stock of crystals for the /20 rig and will sell anyone a set for $12 for 6
matched units plus the 2 LO crystals if you have your rig built to the point of
needing the filter crystals. Otherwise, a set is $20. That way, I'm not
supplying crystals that are going to set on the shelf and never be used or end
up on eBay for someone else profit on my hard work. If $10 won't fit your budget
and you are building the rig, I'll send you a set for free. All profits over and
above my costs get donated to Osprey Watch of SE Michigan (www.owsem.org) or to
one of the QRP Symposiums like Atlanticon, Ozarkcon etc. to help them put on
their events.
>
> I'm stopping at each stage of the 2n2/20 build to learn all I can
> about that stage. At the rate I learn, this 20 M rig might be done in
> time for the next solar max!
:-)....I like that comment!!! :-)
Speaking of learning, I've just been modelling some of the circuitry in the
BITX20 rig to see how that looks. Interesting design....
>
> Mike, WA5PSE, is gonna be done with his long before me. But that's OK
> because he stays a few stages ahead of me and is warning me of rough
> spots and issues before I get there.
That's the benefit of having more than one rig being built. It there was a large
group build going one, there would be all sorts of chatter on this reflector.
Thanks for the update Brad, and GL with your building and learning.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Nathan DeLong wrote:
> Jim,
Hi Nate,
> Thanks for your response. I have tried the one-turn winding both ways and
> the way I have it now is much quieter. None of the LEDs get dim.
> I notice that when I tune to a noisy spot on the tuning range I can stop the
> noise if I place my finger near T-7. But the noise always returns.
> Not sure what to try next.
I'm wondering if the IF Amp is oscillating and causing that noise. I've not had
reports of that happening before, but it runs with high gain, over 40 dB, and
could become unstable due to layout etc. or the wrong parts being used. Worth
checking the wiring and parts values.
72,
Jim,. K8IQY
k9qb wrote:
> Hello Jim,
Hi Mike,
>
> I'm ready to start building the RF PreAmp and noticed you have a
> small shield panel next to it in your pictures.
Yes, a piece of tin plated steel from the local hobby shop's supply. Solders
like a dream, can be cut with sissors, and easy to form if needed.
>
> Since it looks all silvery and all, I'm assuming or presuming that
> it's ferrous material.
Yes, see above.
>
> I've got some really cheap "ferrous" material in the form of a coffee
> can.
> It's flimsy material, but, it is ferrous. It's also very sharp when
> trimmed with shears...
A little sandpaper on the edges with cure the problem! :-)
I would prefer to work with PCB...it's easy to
> use and fairly plentiful in my shack.
>
> What I'm wondering is, does the shield need to be ferrous or can it
> be a piece of PCB.
Don't know, but I would expect the tin plated steel to do a better job for what
I intended it to do.
> I know both copper and iron are used in shields, but, I'm not sure
> when you would use one as opposed to the other.
>
> It seems to me that ferrous material would have faraday properties
> different from copper and that it would be preferred in certain
> situations..
>
> Since the shield in question is quite small and does not envelope the
> PreAmp...I'am guessing it's mostly there to break up capacitive
> coupling from other circuits...If that presumption is correct, then
> I'd assume either the ferrous or PCB material would work equally well.
Well actually, the shield was placed between the output transformer of the VFO
and the input filters/RF Amp to make sure that the signal from the VFO wouldn't
get coupled to any of those input inductors or RF Amp output transformer. Using
the tin plated steel works for both magnetic and electric fields, and it was
easy to solder to the substrate.
I hope all of the above makes sense.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim:
Thanks for taking time to comment. Helps me learn.
> Speaking of learning, I've just been modelling some of the
circuitry in the
> BITX20 rig to see how that looks. Interesting design....
I heard the designer "interviewed" on Soldersmoke [RIP KL7R].
Can't remember his name right now. Seems like it had something to do
with "two way" amplifier stages. Since I'm struggling with learning
the one way version, it'll be awhile before I tackle that. But it is
encouraging that you're using modeling to help you understand things
too.
In order to model the roofing filter, I now get to learn how to
model crystals in LTSpice. I've seen some material on how to do
that. Should be fun. At the same time, I'm trying to learn how to
use my OScope. So much to learn...so few brain cells!
Brad
WA5PSA
Thnaks for the info...
After I pushed the "send" button, it occured to me that the shield
is in the proximity of one or another coils and that magnetic fields
might be an issue...Magnetic field protection would certainly
benefit from the properties of ferrous material.
Your answer confirmed that.
I sliced up a 1 lb coffee can last evening and got all kinds of good
looking shield material out of it...and, didn't cut my fingers once
(yet!).
Have tried to find the metal stock at our area Hobby Lobby's and the
like and, so far, came up empty.
Have been following the other posts concerning oscillations and I'm
going to be paying close attention to phasing of the transfomer
connections and use of the metal can 2N2222's.
So far, I have a PN2222 in the Norton amp amd haven't heard anything
adverse yet...but, I don't have a VFO yet either.
Thanks for the response, Jim...
72, Mike WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
>
> k9qb wrote:
> > Hello Jim,
>
> Hi Mike,
>
>
> >
> > I'm ready to start building the RF PreAmp and noticed you have a
> > small shield panel next to it in your pictures.
>
> Yes,a piece of tin plated steel from the local hobby shop's
supply. Solders
> like a dream, can be cut with sissors, and easy to form if needed.
> >
> > Since it looks all silvery and all, I'm assuming or presuming
that
> > it's ferrous material.
>
> Yes, see above.
>
> >
> > I've got some really cheap "ferrous" material in the form of a
coffee
> > can.
> > It's flimsy material, but, it is ferrous. It's also very sharp
when
> > trimmed with shears...
>
> A little sandpaper on the edges with cure the problem! :-)
>
> I would prefer to work with PCB...it's easy to
> > use and fairly plentiful in my shack.
> >
> > What I'm wondering is, does the shield need to be ferrous or can
it
> > be a piece of PCB.
>
> Don't know, but I would expect the tin plated steel to do a better
job for what
> I intended it to do.
>
> > I know both copper and iron are used in shields, but, I'm not
sure
> > when you would use one as opposed to the other.
> >
> > It seems to me that ferrous material would have faraday
properties
> > different from copper and that it would be preferred in certain
> > situations..
> >
> > Since the shield in question is quite small and does not
envelope the
> > PreAmp...I'am guessing it's mostly there to break up capacitive
> > coupling from other circuits...If that presumption is correct,
then
> > I'd assume either the ferrous or PCB material would work equally
well.
>
> Well actually, the shield was placed between the output
transformer of the VFO
> and the input filters/RF Amp to make sure that the signal from the
VFO wouldn't
> get coupled to any of those input inductors or RF Amp output
transformer. Using
> the tin plated steel works for both magnetic and electric fields,
and it was
> easy to solder to the substrate.
>
> I hope all of the above makes sense.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
I check over that again and see if I can find anything.
72 & Thanks,
Nate, KC8YRZ
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Jim Kortge
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 10:41 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
Nathan DeLong wrote:
> Jim,
Hi Nate,
> Thanks for your response. I have tried the one-turn winding both ways
and
> the way I have it now is much quieter. None of the LEDs get dim.
> I notice that when I tune to a noisy spot on the tuning range I can stop
the
> noise if I place my finger near T-7. But the noise always returns.
> Not sure what to try next.
I'm wondering if the IF Amp is oscillating and causing that noise. I've
not had
reports of that happening before, but it runs with high gain, over 40 dB,
and
could become unstable due to layout etc. or the wrong parts being used.
Worth
checking the wiring and parts values.
72,
Jim,. K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
k9qb wrote:
> Thnaks for the info...
>
> After I pushed the "send" button, it occured to me that the shield
> is in the proximity of one or another coils and that magnetic fields
> might be an issue...Magnetic field protection would certainly
> benefit from the properties of ferrous material.
>
> Your answer confirmed that.
>
> I sliced up a 1 lb coffee can last evening and got all kinds of good
> looking shield material out of it...and, didn't cut my fingers once
> (yet!).
>
> Have tried to find the metal stock at our area Hobby Lobby's and the
> like and, so far, came up empty.
>
> Have been following the other posts concerning oscillations and I'm
> going to be paying close attention to phasing of the transfomer
> connections and use of the metal can 2N2222's.
Well that is an important issue. There is only one way that it will work as an
amplifier; the other way around and it is a high powered oscillator! :-)
>
> So far, I have a PN2222 in the Norton amp amd haven't heard anything
> adverse yet...but, I don't have a VFO yet either.
Well I find the 2N2222A metal can transistor interesting. None of the Norton
Amps that I have used used that transistor, only a plastic PN2222. I'm looking
at the Norton Amp in my 2N2/20 and indeed it is a plastic jobby. It gets warm,
but not hot as I recall. The heat issue may well be associated with the kind of
LED used in the base bias circuit. The LED that I used is a low current, 10 ma,
device with 1.8 volt spec made by Fairchild. One of their HLMP series, in green.
>
> Thanks for the response, Jim...
You are most welcome Mike. I'm excited that you and others are building 2N2/20 rigs.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
> Well that is an important issue. There is only one way that it
will work as an
> amplifier; the other way around and it is a high powered
oscillator! :-)
>
Yep, like I like to kid around about the subtle difference between
an oscillator and an amplifier.
I'm looking
> at the Norton Amp in my 2N2/20 and indeed it is a plastic jobby.
It gets warm,
> but not hot as I recall. The heat issue may well be associated
with the kind of
> LED used in the base bias circuit. The LED that I used is a low
current, 10 ma,
> device with 1.8 volt spec made by Fairchild. One of their HLMP
series, in green.
So, you're getting about 1.8 VDC on the base of your RF Amp?
I wondered about that, because, some of these things(LED's)run well
over 2 VDC and can really increase the standing DC emitter current.
I looked up the Norton amp used in the Icom 7800 and the Icom manual
indicates 2.04V at the base and has emitter bias resistance of 57
ohm, (virtually identical to your 56 ohms)
With the 1.35V shown for the emitter voltage (Icom manual), you'd
get about 24ma emitter current...That translates into 300mw
dissipation (or more) happening at the transistor
That'd be very warm...cutting the bias to 1.8V would definitely help
there.
CUL...Mike
.
>
> You are most welcome Mike. I'm excited that you and others are
building 2N2/20 rigs.
>
> 72 and kind regards,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
If you find the Norton amps interesting I'd highly recommend this
article ... I built one of these with a pair of 2SC1253's and the IP3
is higher than I can measure on my current setup ... I plan on putting
another in a Wellbrook loop antenna clone I'm building when the
weather warms up
http://www.kongsfjord.no/dl/Amplifiers/Ultralinear%202N5109%20And%202N3053%20Amplifiers.pdf JR
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "k9qb" wrote:
>
>
> > Well that is an important issue. There is only one way that it
> will work as an
> > amplifier; the other way around and it is a high powered
> oscillator! :-)
> >
> Yep, like I like to kid around about the subtle difference between
> an oscillator and an amplifier.
>
> I'm looking
> > at the Norton Amp in my 2N2/20 and indeed it is a plastic jobby.
> It gets warm,
> > but not hot as I recall. The heat issue may well be associated
> with the kind of
> > LED used in the base bias circuit. The LED that I used is a low
> current, 10 ma,
> > device with 1.8 volt spec made by Fairchild. One of their HLMP
> series, in green.
>
> So, you're getting about 1.8 VDC on the base of your RF Amp?
> I wondered about that, because, some of these things(LED's)run well
> over 2 VDC and can really increase the standing DC emitter current.
>
> I looked up the Norton amp used in the Icom 7800 and the Icom manual
> indicates 2.04V at the base and has emitter bias resistance of 57
> ohm, (virtually identical to your 56 ohms)
> With the 1.35V shown for the emitter voltage (Icom manual), you'd
> get about 24ma emitter current...That translates into 300mw
> dissipation (or more) happening at the transistor
>
>
Hi JR,
Thanks for the info on the Norton amp experimentation...I just
scanned through and saw some very interesting ideas to explore.
Will devote more time to exploring this interesting amp another time.
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "jr_dakota" wrote:
>
> If you find the Norton amps interesting I'd highly recommend this
> article ... I built one of these with a pair of 2SC1253's and the
IP3
> is higher than I can measure on my current setup ... I plan on
putting
> another in a Wellbrook loop antenna clone I'm building when the
> weather warms up
>
> http://www.kongsfjord.no/dl/Amplifiers/Ultralinear%202N5109%20And%
202N3053%20Amplifiers.pdf
>
> JR
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "k9qb" wrote:
> >
> >
> > > Well that is an important issue. There is only one way that it
> > will work as an
> > > amplifier; the other way around and it is a high powered
> > oscillator! :-)
> > >
> > Yep, like I like to kid around about the subtle difference
between
> > an oscillator and an amplifier.
> >
> > I'm looking
> > > at the Norton Amp in my 2N2/20 and indeed it is a plastic
jobby.
> > It gets warm,
> > > but not hot as I recall. The heat issue may well be associated
> > with the kind of
> > > LED used in the base bias circuit. The LED that I used is a
low
> > current, 10 ma,
> > > device with 1.8 volt spec made by Fairchild. One of their HLMP
> > series, in green.
> >
> > So, you're getting about 1.8 VDC on the base of your RF Amp?
> > I wondered about that, because, some of these things(LED's)run
well
> > over 2 VDC and can really increase the standing DC emitter
current.
> >
> > I looked up the Norton amp used in the Icom 7800 and the Icom
manual
> > indicates 2.04V at the base and has emitter bias resistance of
57
> > ohm, (virtually identical to your 56 ohms)
> > With the 1.35V shown for the emitter voltage (Icom manual),
you'd
> > get about 24ma emitter current...That translates into 300mw
> > dissipation (or more) happening at the transistor
> >
> >
>
Hi Jim and others
I have been trying to fix a problem with my 2N2/20 that has low TX-
output( about 2 W as measured). I'have looked at some previous
postings in this matter but I a bit puzzeled.
So I'd like to ask a couple of questions:
1. First I was suspecting the TX lp filter.I have all the caps and
L12/L13 measured with a good LC-meter so they are within specs.
When I feed a signal generator in at the front of the filter ( at c90)
and watch the output of the filter the response gives a max at
16.5Mhz. At
14.05Mhz its output is down 6 db. Seems like it's not at resonance
at abt 14.05. I guess it should ?? That could eat up some power I
guess.
2. I am also suspecting the input to the TX mixer to be to low.
From the TX local osc it should be 7dbm into pin 6 of ADE-1.
Mine is not , its about 0 dbm. I am using L10 = 3.9uh and C80 63pf.
Could that affect the TX-output ?.
3 Is there a RMS voltage chart for the different TX stages so I can
compare ?
The receiver works excellent
Sorry to take your time but I'am stuck
72/Frank
SM5QU/KC0YQI
|
3540|3539|2007-02-06 13:54:47|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2/20 low output|Frank, SM5QU/KC0YQI wrote:
> Hi Jim and others
Greetings Frank,
>
> I have been trying to fix a problem with my 2N2/20 that has low TX-
> output( about 2 W as measured).
Well, it certainly should run more powere than that if everything is correct.
I'have looked at some previous
> postings in this matter but I a bit puzzeled.
Others have not been able to get the 7+ watts output that I can get with mine,
but certainly more than 2 watts as far as I know. Other having problems with
output power too??
> So I'd like to ask a couple of questions:
> 1. First I was suspecting the TX lp filter.I have all the caps and
> L12/L13 measured with a good LC-meter so they are within specs.
What instrument did you use for that?
> When I feed a signal generator in at the front of the filter ( at c90)
> and watch the output of the filter
At the collector of Q22 I'm assuming?
the response gives a max at
> 16.5Mhz. At
> 14.05Mhz its output is down 6 db. Seems like it's not at resonance
> at abt 14.05. I guess it should ??
Well not at resonance, as it is a low pass filter. It is supposed to be flat
from DC up to about 14.5 MHz, and then start falling off in response at about 12
dB per octave until you hit the parallel resonance point of C95 and L13. There
the response (nominally 28.2 MHz) drops to maybe 80 dB or so. That parallel
resonance is the trap for the 2nd harmonic energy.
When you are driving the filter at C90 with the signal generator, you would need
to temporily solder a 15 Ohm resistor from the collector side of Q22 to ground
to present the correct design impedance at the other end of the filter, and make
your frequency response measurements there. The design of the low pass filter,
if I remember correctly, was a PI section to transform 14.4 Ohms up to 50 Ohms
and then an additional Elliptic filter hung on to the end of that. The output
capacicance of the PI filter was added to the input capacitance of the Elliptic
to arrive at the 680pF value used.
The 14.4 Ohm impedance comes from our old friend Vcc^2/2*Po where Vcc is 12
volts and Po is 5 watts. This give the impedance the 2SC2166 has to see to
supply 5 watts into a 50 Ohm load (the antenna)
That could eat up some power I
> guess.
Well certainly, if the filter is really down 6 dB at 14.05 MHz, a lot of power
isn't going to get to the antenna. 6dB is 1/4 the power. 8 watts becomes 2 watts
going through 6 dB of attenuation.
>
> 2. I am also suspecting the input to the TX mixer to be to low.
>>From the TX local osc it should be 7dbm into pin 6 of ADE-1.
Yes, that is correct, but you can't see that level if the mixer is being driven.
You would have to take the LO output off of pin 6 and drive a 50 Ohm resistor to
ground to see the true power level. The diodes in the mixer limit the amplitude
of the drive, so you get an incorrect drive level. About 700 mv p-p is what
you'll see on pin 6; thats the saturation level of the diode ring inside.
If you look back at the collector of Q18, you should see a level of 8 volts p-p
or 3 volts rms.
> Mine is not , its about 0 dbm. I am using L10 = 3.9uh and C80 63pf.
> Could that affect the TX-output ?.
Yes, that value of L10 got revised to 2.7uH and C80 to 68pF. I made a
computational error and the early 2N2/20 schematics show that.
>
> 3 Is there a RMS voltage chart for the different TX stages so I can
> compare ?
Yes and no. I think I've published to the 2N2/XX group the voltage levels that I
see on my rig. If not, here they are:
Tx LO
Q18 collector = 8V P-P; 3V RMS
Tx Mixer
Pin 6 = 700 mV P-P; 270 mV RMS
TxVFO signal to R68 = 800 mV P-P; 290 mV RMS (Note, this level is near the
maximum you can have driving the mixer on the RF port. Higher levels will end up
producing significant spurious outputs from the mixer due to overdrive.)
Tx Cascode Amp
T9 Primary = 100 mV P-P; 30 mV RMS (Note, this is a composite signal of all
mixer outputs)
T10 Secondary = 1.5V P-P; 490 mV RMS (TR1 was adjusted for 4 watts output into
50 Ohm load)
Tx RF Driver
Q21 Collector = 17V P-P; 5.1V RMS (Rig running 4 watts output)
Tx RF Final
Q22 Base = 5.1V P-P; 1.5V RMS (Signal is non-symetrical, +2.1V positive with
flat top, -3V negative half-sine; rig running 4 watts output)
No voltage measurements were made at the collector of Q22 nor at the antenna
connector.
>
> The receiver works excellent
That's very nice to hear Frank.
>
> Sorry to take your time but I'am stuck
Not a problem, lets hope the information I sent along will help. If all else
fails, taking a turn off of L12 and L13 may fix it, but I wouldn't do that until
you've exhausted the other possibilities.
72 and kind regards Frank,
Jim, K8IQY
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 7:53 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/20 low output
Hi Jim and thanks for the quick reply
Others have not been able to get the 7+ watts output that I can get with mine,
but certainly more than 2 watts as far as I know. Other having problems with
output power too??
--Well I think it´s down to 1.5watt now so its even worse
> So I'd like to ask a couple of questions:
> 1. First I was suspecting the TX lp filter.I have all the caps and
> L12/L13 measured with a good LC-meter so they are within specs.
What instrument did you use for that?
------I use VK3BHR published design homebuild but I think it´s fairly correct.
I have calibrated it against some high prec inductors and cap so should read correct
The caps are ceramic NP0 type new one´s.
-----Thanks for info the low-pass filter. I did not have time to test it as You suggest but will and get back
> 2. I am also suspecting the input to the TX mixer to be to low.
>>From the TX local osc it should be 7dbm into pin 6 of ADE-1.
Yes, that is correct, but you can't see that level if the mixer is being driven.
You would have to take the LO output off of pin 6 and drive a 50 Ohm resistor to
ground to see the true power level. The diodes in the mixer limit the amplitude
of the drive, so you get an incorrect drive level. About 700 mv p-p is what
you'll see on pin 6; thats the saturation level of the diode ring inside.
If you look back at the collector of Q18, you should see a level of 8 volts p-p
or 3 volts rms.
----I get a reading of 4 V p-p at the collector of Q18 so thats low.
Yes, that value of L10 got revised to 2.7uH and C80 to 68pF. I made a
computational error and the early 2N2/20 schematics show that.
---Thanks I have corrected that
>
> 3 Is there a RMS voltage chart for the different TX stages so I can
> compare ?
Yes and no. I think I've published to the 2N2/XX group the voltage levels that I
see on my rig. If not, here they are:
Tx Mixer
Pin 6 = 700 mV P-P; 270 mV RMS
----Mine is 600 mV P-P
TxVFO signal to R68 = 800 mV P-P; 290 mV RMS
----Mine is 700 mV P-P
Tx Cascode Amp
T9 Primary = 100 mV P-P; 30 mV RMS (Note, this is a composite signal of all
mixer outputs)
----Mine is 50 mV P-P
T10 Secondary = 1.5V P-P; 490 mV RMS
---- Mine is 1 V P-P. As I understand and my Math is correct thats about 26 Db gain of the Cascode amp . Thats ok ?
Tx RF Driver
Q21 Collector = 17V P-P; 5.1V RMS (Rig running 4 watts output)
Mine is 15 V P-P
Tx RF Final
Q22 Base = 5.1V P-P; 1.5V RMS (Signal is non-symetrical, +2.1V positive with
flat top, -3V negative half-sine; rig running 4 watts output).
---Confirm that and mine is 3V P-P
I use a 100Mhz sampling oscilloscope , I thinks thats a good one.
So in conclusion i will try to get Tx LO at the collector up to 8 V P-P and start to check the low-pass filter
By the way what Voltage rating does the capacitors of the low-pass filter have. Mine are 50 V ceramic capacitors NP0. Maybee they should be higher ?.
Once again thanks.. Jim ..really grateful
72 Frank
SM5QU/KC0YQI
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Frank wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Kortge
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 7:53 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/20 low output
>
>
>
>
> Hi Jim and thanks for the quick reply
>
>
>
> Others have not been able to get the 7+ watts output that I can get with mine,
> but certainly more than 2 watts as far as I know. Other having problems with
> output power too??
>
> --Well I think it´s down to 1.5watt now so its even worse
Whoa Frank, 'ya got it going the wrong way! :-)
>
> > So I'd like to ask a couple of questions:
> > 1. First I was suspecting the TX lp filter.I have all the caps and
> > L12/L13 measured with a good LC-meter so they are within specs.
>
> What instrument did you use for that?
> ------I use VK3BHR published design homebuild but I think it´s fairly correct.
>
> I have calibrated it against some high prec inductors and cap so should read correct
>
> The caps are ceramic NP0 type new one´s.
Sounds like you've got the measuring end covered just fine.
>
> -----Thanks for info the low-pass filter. I did not have time to test it as You suggest but will and get back
Well that may tell us a bit more.
>
>
> > 2. I am also suspecting the input to the TX mixer to be to low.
> >>From the TX local osc it should be 7dbm into pin 6 of ADE-1.
>
> Yes, that is correct, but you can't see that level if the mixer is being driven.
> You would have to take the LO output off of pin 6 and drive a 50 Ohm resistor to
> ground to see the true power level. The diodes in the mixer limit the amplitude
> of the drive, so you get an incorrect drive level. About 700 mv p-p is what
> you'll see on pin 6; thats the saturation level of the diode ring inside.
>
> If you look back at the collector of Q18, you should see a level of 8 volts p-p
> or 3 volts rms.
>
> ----I get a reading of 4 V p-p at the collector of Q18 so thats low.
Yes....I wonder why. Where did the crystals come from and who is the Manufacturer?
>
>
> Yes, that value of L10 got revised to 2.7uH and C80 to 68pF. I made a
> computational error and the early 2N2/20 schematics show that.
>
> ---Thanks I have corrected that
That does a better job of matching the impedance of the LO to the Mixer LO port.
> >
> > 3 Is there a RMS voltage chart for the different TX stages so I can
> > compare ?
>
> Yes and no. I think I've published to the 2N2/XX group the voltage levels that I
> see on my rig. If not, here they are:
>
>
>
> Tx Mixer
> Pin 6 = 700 mV P-P; 270 mV RMS
>
> ----Mine is 600 mV P-P
>
>
> TxVFO signal to R68 = 800 mV P-P; 290 mV RMS
>
> ----Mine is 700 mV P-P
>
>
> Tx Cascode Amp
> T9 Primary = 100 mV P-P; 30 mV RMS (Note, this is a composite signal of all
> mixer outputs)
>
> ----Mine is 50 mV P-P
>
>
> T10 Secondary = 1.5V P-P; 490 mV RMS
>
> ---- Mine is 1 V P-P. As I understand and my Math is correct thats about 26 Db gain of the Cascode amp . Thats ok ?
>
>
> Tx RF Driver
> Q21 Collector = 17V P-P; 5.1V RMS (Rig running 4 watts output)
>
> Mine is 15 V P-P
>
>
>
> Tx RF Final
> Q22 Base = 5.1V P-P; 1.5V RMS (Signal is non-symetrical, +2.1V positive with
> flat top, -3V negative half-sine; rig running 4 watts output).
>
> ---Confirm that and mine is 3V P-P
>
>
> I use a 100Mhz sampling oscilloscope , I thinks thats a good one.
>
Yes, that should be more than adequate. What is the Vcc running at on your rig?
When I made my measurements, I think I was using my 13.8 volt supply. That
could make some difference if you are at 12 volts.
>
> So in conclusion i will try to get Tx LO at the collector up to 8 V P-P and start to check the low-pass filter
>
> By the way what Voltage rating does the capacitors of the low-pass filter have. Mine are 50 V ceramic capacitors NP0. Maybee they should be higher ?.
No, those should good up to 25 watts of output if I did the math right. And
being NPO, they should be low loss. Silver Mica or polystyrene would be slightly
better in terms of loss, but I don't think that is the problem. It's something else.
>
>
> Once again thanks.. Jim ..really grateful
Glad to try to help Frank. Keep working on it and posting to the group what you
are finding. It's very educational for everyone when that happens, especially me.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
k9qb wrote:
>>Well that is an important issue. There is only one way that it
>
> will work as an
>
>>amplifier; the other way around and it is a high powered
>
> oscillator! :-)
>
> Yep, like I like to kid around about the subtle difference between
> an oscillator and an amplifier.
>
> I'm looking
>
>>at the Norton Amp in my 2N2/20 and indeed it is a plastic jobby.
>
> It gets warm,
>
>>but not hot as I recall. The heat issue may well be associated
>
> with the kind of
>
>>LED used in the base bias circuit. The LED that I used is a low
>
> current, 10 ma,
>
>>device with 1.8 volt spec made by Fairchild. One of their HLMP
>
> series, in green.
>
> So, you're getting about 1.8 VDC on the base of your RF Amp?
Yes, that what it is.
> I wondered about that, because, some of these things(LED's)run well
> over 2 VDC and can really increase the standing DC emitter current.
Yes, that's true.
>
> I looked up the Norton amp used in the Icom 7800 and the Icom manual
> indicates 2.04V at the base and has emitter bias resistance of 57
> ohm, (virtually identical to your 56 ohms)
> With the 1.35V shown for the emitter voltage (Icom manual), you'd
> get about 24ma emitter current...That translates into 300mw
> dissipation (or more) happening at the transistor
>
> That'd be very warm...cutting the bias to 1.8V would definitely help
> there.
Agreed. Maybe I'll hook the rig up and measure the RF Amp bias again. I've done
that before but can't find the data at the moment. Took much paper in my shack
these days!!! You would think it would be in the 2N2/20 book, but didn't see it
there when I hastly went through it.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim, Jeff and all,
I tried a 2n2222A in a TO-18 case. Changing this didn't solve my oscillation
problem but the metal case transistor does get hot! It had an hFE of 271 if
memory serves correctly. On Jim's advice I re-checked all the parts in the
IF amp but didn't find anything there. I changed my layout by turning T-2 90
degrees to make it perpendicular to T-1. That didn't make any difference
either. Originally I had pretty much used the layout by K3PEG. At this point
I'm thinking I might try separating T-1 a little from Q-1, which is now much
closer than it looks to be on Jim's photo. The receiver seems to be working
great except for a couple of spots on the tuning range. Does anyone have any
other suggestions?
72,
Nate, KC8YRZ
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Nathan DeLong
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 4:24 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
Jeff,
I'll give that a try!
Thanks!
72,
Nate, KC8YRZ
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
dek8gd
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 3:30 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
Hi Nate.
I had the same problem with the Norton Noisless Amp in the 2N2/20 when
I built mine. If the LED is coming on, it's a good chance you have
the phasing correct. I was getting oscillations up into the VHF
region (it's really easy seeing that if you have a spectrum analyzer).
When I was troubleshooting, I noticed that the transistor I used had
extremely high gain (hFE > 250). I had used a PN2222A in a TO-92
style case. I replace it with a 2N2222A in a TO-18 style case and the
problem went away. High transistor gain shouldn't cause that problem
in this circuit, but changing the transistor definitely fixed it.
Also, I would recommend using the TO-18 style case because that
transistor runs very hot in that amp, and you can make and put a small
heat sink on it very easily.
Give that a try and let us all know what fixes it.
72,
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan DeLong" wrote:
>
> Jim,
> Thanks for your response. I have tried the one-turn winding both
ways and
> the way I have it now is much quieter. None of the LEDs get dim.
> I notice that when I tune to a noisy spot on the tuning range I can
stop the
> noise if I place my finger near T-7. But the noise always returns.
> Not sure what to try next.
> 72,
> Nate, KC8YRZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of
> Jim Kortge
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 7:19 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
>
>
>
>
> Nathan DeLong wrote:
> > Yep, a fine line between amplifier and oscillator.
> > I'm still trying to get this Rx aligned. I still seem to have some
> > oscillations at some various points across the tuning range and
have yet
> to
> > determine the cause or cure for that
> > Nate, KC8YRZ
>
> Nate,
>
> Are you sure you have the phasing of the winding of the RF Amp toroid
> correct.
> The one turn winding through the core that goes to the emitter is
> critical, If
> the wrong end is connected to the emitter, the amp will oscillate
like a
> banshee. When it is right, the amp is conditionally stable. You'll
know if
> it is
> oscillating as the LED supplying the base voltage gets dim.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Nate...
Just a quick question...
On your Norton Amp transistor EMITTER, what are you seeing for a DC
voltage to ground?...For that matter, what's the DC voltage at each
leg of that transistor?
Also, can you take a close up picture of the RF preamp and send to me?
You've got me real curious.
My direct address is
k9qb@yahoo.com Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan DeLong" wrote:
>
> Jim, Jeff and all,
>
> I tried a 2n2222A in a TO-18 case. Changing this didn't solve my
oscillation
> problem but the metal case transistor does get hot! It had an hFE
of 271 if
> memory serves correctly. On Jim's advice I re-checked all the parts
in the
> IF amp but didn't find anything there. I changed my layout by
turning T-2 90
> degrees to make it perpendicular to T-1. That didn't make any
difference
> either. Originally I had pretty much used the layout by K3PEG. At
this point
> I'm thinking I might try separating T-1 a little from Q-1, which is
now much
> closer than it looks to be on Jim's photo. The receiver seems to be
working
> great except for a couple of spots on the tuning range. Does anyone
have any
> other suggestions?
>
> 72,
> Nate, KC8YRZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of
> Nathan DeLong
> Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 4:24 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
>
>
>
> Jeff,
>
> I'll give that a try!
> Thanks!
>
> 72,
>
> Nate, KC8YRZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of
> dek8gd
> Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 3:30 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
>
> Hi Nate.
>
> I had the same problem with the Norton Noisless Amp in the 2N2/20
when
> I built mine. If the LED is coming on, it's a good chance you have
> the phasing correct. I was getting oscillations up into the VHF
> region (it's really easy seeing that if you have a spectrum
analyzer).
> When I was troubleshooting, I noticed that the transistor I used
had
> extremely high gain (hFE > 250). I had used a PN2222A in a TO-92
> style case. I replace it with a 2N2222A in a TO-18 style case and
the
> problem went away. High transistor gain shouldn't cause that
problem
> in this circuit, but changing the transistor definitely fixed it.
> Also, I would recommend using the TO-18 style case because that
> transistor runs very hot in that amp, and you can make and put a
small
> heat sink on it very easily.
>
> Give that a try and let us all know what fixes it.
>
> 72,
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan DeLong" wrote:
> >
> > Jim,
> > Thanks for your response. I have tried the one-turn winding both
> ways and
> > the way I have it now is much quieter. None of the LEDs get dim.
> > I notice that when I tune to a noisy spot on the tuning range I
can
> stop the
> > noise if I place my finger near T-7. But the noise always
returns.
> > Not sure what to try next.
> > 72,
> > Nate, KC8YRZ
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
> Behalf Of
> > Jim Kortge
> > Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 7:19 PM
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Nathan DeLong wrote:
> > > Yep, a fine line between amplifier and oscillator.
> > > I'm still trying to get this Rx aligned. I still seem to have
some
> > > oscillations at some various points across the tuning range
and
> have yet
> > to
> > > determine the cause or cure for that
> > > Nate, KC8YRZ
> >
> > Nate,
> >
> > Are you sure you have the phasing of the winding of the RF Amp
toroid
> > correct.
> > The one turn winding through the core that goes to the emitter
is
> > critical, If
> > the wrong end is connected to the emitter, the amp will
oscillate
> like a
> > banshee. When it is right, the amp is conditionally stable.
You'll
> know if
> > it is
> > oscillating as the LED supplying the base voltage gets dim.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Mike,
The DC voltages on Q-1 are as follows: E=1.3, B=1.7, and C=11.3. I'll get a
photo to you shortly.
Nate, KC8YRZ
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
k9qb
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 1:18 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] Re: RE:2n2/20 oscillations
Hi Nate...
Just a quick question...
On your Norton Amp transistor EMITTER, what are you seeing for a DC
voltage to ground?...For that matter, what's the DC voltage at each
leg of that transistor?
Also, can you take a close up picture of the RF preamp and send to me?
You've got me real curious.
My direct address is
k9qb@yahoo.com Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan DeLong" wrote:
>
> Jim, Jeff and all,
>
> I tried a 2n2222A in a TO-18 case. Changing this didn't solve my
oscillation
> problem but the metal case transistor does get hot! It had an hFE
of 271 if
> memory serves correctly. On Jim's advice I re-checked all the parts
in the
> IF amp but didn't find anything there. I changed my layout by
turning T-2 90
> degrees to make it perpendicular to T-1. That didn't make any
difference
> either. Originally I had pretty much used the layout by K3PEG. At
this point
> I'm thinking I might try separating T-1 a little from Q-1, which is
now much
> closer than it looks to be on Jim's photo. The receiver seems to be
working
> great except for a couple of spots on the tuning range. Does anyone
have any
> other suggestions?
>
> 72,
> Nate, KC8YRZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of
> Nathan DeLong
> Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 4:24 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
>
>
>
> Jeff,
>
> I'll give that a try!
> Thanks!
>
> 72,
>
> Nate, KC8YRZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of
> dek8gd
> Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 3:30 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
>
> Hi Nate.
>
> I had the same problem with the Norton Noisless Amp in the 2N2/20
when
> I built mine. If the LED is coming on, it's a good chance you have
> the phasing correct. I was getting oscillations up into the VHF
> region (it's really easy seeing that if you have a spectrum
analyzer).
> When I was troubleshooting, I noticed that the transistor I used
had
> extremely high gain (hFE > 250). I had used a PN2222A in a TO-92
> style case. I replace it with a 2N2222A in a TO-18 style case and
the
> problem went away. High transistor gain shouldn't cause that
problem
> in this circuit, but changing the transistor definitely fixed it.
> Also, I would recommend using the TO-18 style case because that
> transistor runs very hot in that amp, and you can make and put a
small
> heat sink on it very easily.
>
> Give that a try and let us all know what fixes it.
>
> 72,
>
> Jeff - K8GD
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan DeLong" wrote:
> >
> > Jim,
> > Thanks for your response. I have tried the one-turn winding both
> ways and
> > the way I have it now is much quieter. None of the LEDs get dim.
> > I notice that when I tune to a noisy spot on the tuning range I
can
> stop the
> > noise if I place my finger near T-7. But the noise always
returns.
> > Not sure what to try next.
> > 72,
> > Nate, KC8YRZ
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
> Behalf Of
> > Jim Kortge
> > Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 7:19 PM
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Nathan DeLong wrote:
> > > Yep, a fine line between amplifier and oscillator.
> > > I'm still trying to get this Rx aligned. I still seem to have
some
> > > oscillations at some various points across the tuning range
and
> have yet
> > to
> > > determine the cause or cure for that
> > > Nate, KC8YRZ
> >
> > Nate,
> >
> > Are you sure you have the phasing of the winding of the RF Amp
toroid
> > correct.
> > The one turn winding through the core that goes to the emitter
is
> > critical, If
> > the wrong end is connected to the emitter, the amp will
oscillate
> like a
> > banshee. When it is right, the amp is conditionally stable.
You'll
> know if
> > it is
> > oscillating as the LED supplying the base voltage gets dim.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
>
>
>
> k9qb wrote:
> >>Well that is an important issue. There is only one way that it
> >
> > will work as an
> >
> >>amplifier; the other way around and it is a high powered
> >
> > oscillator! :-)
> >
> > Yep, like I like to kid around about the subtle difference
between
> > an oscillator and an amplifier.
> >
> > I'm looking
> >
> >>at the Norton Amp in my 2N2/20 and indeed it is a plastic jobby.
> >
> > It gets warm,
> >
> >>but not hot as I recall. The heat issue may well be associated
> >
> > with the kind of
> >
> >>LED used in the base bias circuit. The LED that I used is a low
> >
> > current, 10 ma,
> >
> >>device with 1.8 volt spec made by Fairchild. One of their HLMP
> >
> > series, in green.
> >
> > So, you're getting about 1.8 VDC on the base of your RF Amp?
>
> Yes, that what it is.
>
> > I wondered about that, because, some of these things(LED's)run
well
> > over 2 VDC and can really increase the standing DC emitter
current.
>
> Yes, that's true.
> >
> > I looked up the Norton amp used in the Icom 7800 and the Icom
manual
> > indicates 2.04V at the base and has emitter bias resistance of 57
> > ohm, (virtually identical to your 56 ohms)
> > With the 1.35V shown for the emitter voltage (Icom manual), you'd
> > get about 24ma emitter current...That translates into 300mw
> > dissipation (or more) happening at the transistor
> >
> > That'd be very warm...cutting the bias to 1.8V would definitely
help
> > there.
>
> Agreed. Maybe I'll hook the rig up and measure the RF Amp bias
again. I've done
> that before but can't find the data at the moment. Took much paper
in my shack
> these days!!! You would think it would be in the 2N2/20 book, but
didn't see it
> there when I hastly went through it.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Jim,
Amen to the too much paper in the shack!!...I've got too much of
everything in my shack.
Just a quick note concerning LED voltages...
I just pulled some green, orange, red and yellow LED's from our stock
and ran some quick and dirty Vf tests and found that the greenies ran
about 1.93 to 1.94v, the yellows about the same, the reds jumped to
over 2v, BUT, the oranges all ran about 1.72 to 1.74.
I'm thinking of using one of these orange LEDs in that RF Preamp
circuit bias...
A quick check of the Fairchild PN2222 didn't reveal any problem with
using this slightly lower base bias...and, it should reduce the
amount of heat produced in the transistor...
I generally like to run parts cool as I can and still get the job
done, and, I apologize if it seems like I'm needlessly splitting
hairs.
Mike, WA5PSE
>
Nate,
Your DC bias situation looks completely normal...so the heat, if it
is abnormally high, isn't coming from the biasing arangement.
However, if you're having a big oscillation, that could produce heat
and would show up real well on a scope or in a big RF probe reading
of a few volts.
My previous inquiry was prompted by a concern that you might have
swapped a couple of transistor leads around...
Your readings remove that as a concern.
Without proof to the contrary, I'd say, your Norton amp is performing
correctly and that you may be having a couple of images showing up
for one reason or another.
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan DeLong" wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The DC voltages on Q-1 are as follows: E=1.3, B=1.7, and C=11.3.
I'll get a
> photo to you shortly.
>
> Nate, KC8YRZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of
> k9qb
> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 1:18 PM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: RE:2n2/20 oscillations
>
>
> Hi Nate...
>
> Just a quick question...
>
> On your Norton Amp transistor EMITTER, what are you seeing for a
DC
> voltage to ground?...For that matter, what's the DC voltage at
each
> leg of that transistor?
>
> Also, can you take a close up picture of the RF preamp and send
to me?
>
> You've got me real curious.
> My direct address is k9qb@...
>
> Mike, WA5PSE
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan DeLong" wrote:
> >
> > Jim, Jeff and all,
> >
> > I tried a 2n2222A in a TO-18 case. Changing this didn't solve my
> oscillation
> > problem but the metal case transistor does get hot! It had an
hFE
> of 271 if
> > memory serves correctly. On Jim's advice I re-checked all the
parts
> in the
> > IF amp but didn't find anything there. I changed my layout by
> turning T-2 90
> > degrees to make it perpendicular to T-1. That didn't make any
> difference
> > either. Originally I had pretty much used the layout by K3PEG.
At
> this point
> > I'm thinking I might try separating T-1 a little from Q-1,
which is
> now much
> > closer than it looks to be on Jim's photo. The receiver seems
to be
> working
> > great except for a couple of spots on the tuning range. Does
anyone
> have any
> > other suggestions?
> >
> > 72,
> > Nate, KC8YRZ
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
> Behalf Of
> > Nathan DeLong
> > Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 4:24 PM
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
> >
> >
> >
> > Jeff,
> >
> > I'll give that a try!
> > Thanks!
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Nate, KC8YRZ
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
> Behalf Of
> > dek8gd
> > Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 3:30 PM
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
> >
> > Hi Nate.
> >
> > I had the same problem with the Norton Noisless Amp in the
2N2/20
> when
> > I built mine. If the LED is coming on, it's a good chance you
have
> > the phasing correct. I was getting oscillations up into the VHF
> > region (it's really easy seeing that if you have a spectrum
> analyzer).
> > When I was troubleshooting, I noticed that the transistor I used
> had
> > extremely high gain (hFE > 250). I had used a PN2222A in a TO-92
> > style case. I replace it with a 2N2222A in a TO-18 style case
and
> the
> > problem went away. High transistor gain shouldn't cause that
> problem
> > in this circuit, but changing the transistor definitely fixed
it.
> > Also, I would recommend using the TO-18 style case because that
> > transistor runs very hot in that amp, and you can make and put a
> small
> > heat sink on it very easily.
> >
> > Give that a try and let us all know what fixes it.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jeff - K8GD
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Nathan DeLong"
wrote:
> > >
> > > Jim,
> > > Thanks for your response. I have tried the one-turn winding
both
> > ways and
> > > the way I have it now is much quieter. None of the LEDs get
dim.
> > > I notice that when I tune to a noisy spot on the tuning range
I
> can
> > stop the
> > > noise if I place my finger near T-7. But the noise always
> returns.
> > > Not sure what to try next.
> > > 72,
> > > Nate, KC8YRZ
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On
> > Behalf Of
> > > Jim Kortge
> > > Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 7:19 PM
> > > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2_XX Statistics or lack of...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Nathan DeLong wrote:
> > > > Yep, a fine line between amplifier and oscillator.
> > > > I'm still trying to get this Rx aligned. I still seem to
have
> some
> > > > oscillations at some various points across the tuning range
> and
> > have yet
> > > to
> > > > determine the cause or cure for that
> > > > Nate, KC8YRZ
> > >
> > > Nate,
> > >
> > > Are you sure you have the phasing of the winding of the RF Amp
> toroid
> > > correct.
> > > The one turn winding through the core that goes to the emitter
> is
> > > critical, If
> > > the wrong end is connected to the emitter, the amp will
> oscillate
> > like a
> > > banshee. When it is right, the amp is conditionally stable.
> You'll
> > know if
> > > it is
> > > oscillating as the LED supplying the base voltage gets dim.
> > >
> > > 72,
> > >
> > > Jim, K8IQY
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
k9qb wrote:
> Hi Nate...
>
> Just a quick question...
>
> On your Norton Amp transistor EMITTER, what are you seeing for a DC
> voltage to ground?...For that matter, what's the DC voltage at each
> leg of that transistor?
>
> Also, can you take a close up picture of the RF preamp and send to me?
>
> You've got me real curious.
> My direct address is k9qb@yahoo.com
>
> Mike, WA5PSE
Nate,
Better yet, post a picture in the files or photos section of the 2N2 group so we
can all see it. I'm curious too. I've NEVER had one of the Norton Amps oscillate
and I've built many of them.
72 and thanks,
Jim, K8IQY
OK Guys and Gals,
Here are the measurements for the Norton Amp in my 2N2/20 running off of a 12
volts supply.
Vcc = 12.12 volts
Q1 collector = 11.46 volts
Q1 base = 1.92 volts
Q1 emitter = 1.27 volts
Voltage at hot end of emitter resistor R3, 56 Ohms = 1.22 volts
Therefore, current in the transistor is 21.8 ma. (1.22v/56Ohm)and power being
dissipated is 222 milliwatts ((11.46-1.27)v*21.8ma), well below the 300
milliwatt rating for the plastic PN2222 transistor. I put my pinky on it and it
is warm, but not hot as others have reported.
Hope this information is useful.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
3551|3515|2007-02-08 21:52:30|dek8gd|Re: 2n2/20 Norton RF Amp Bias Values|Very similar to the Norton Amp in my latest project Jim:
Vcc = 12.03
collector = 11.39
base = 1.89
emitter = 1.27
VR3 = 1.17
Current in my transistor = 20.9 mA
Dissipated power = 211.5 mW
I suspect the metal TO-18 transistors conduct any heat produced much
better because of the type of case. I have built the Norton Amp
before with the plastic TO-92 case, and I don't recall it running
nearly as hot.
BTW, this new project is going very nicely... listening to a 160M SSB
QSO on it right now :-)
72,
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> OK Guys and Gals,
>
> Here are the measurements for the Norton Amp in my 2N2/20 running
off of a 12
> volts supply.
>
> Vcc = 12.12 volts
> Q1 collector = 11.46 volts
> Q1 base = 1.92 volts
> Q1 emitter = 1.27 volts
>
> Voltage at hot end of emitter resistor R3, 56 Ohms = 1.22 volts
>
> Therefore, current in the transistor is 21.8 ma. (1.22v/56Ohm)and
power being
> dissipated is 222 milliwatts ((11.46-1.27)v*21.8ma), well below the 300
> milliwatt rating for the plastic PN2222 transistor. I put my pinky
on it and it
> is warm, but not hot as others have reported.
>
> Hope this information is useful.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Hi,
Inspired by all this talk about the 2N2/20 preamp, and having never built
that, I've begun gathering parts to build a 2N2/20 rig for myself. Ye olde
junk box should have some of the parts, except for mixers and crystals.
I breadboarded the Norton RX preamp today just to see what mine would do.
The only place I deviated slightly was winding my own 100 uH choke, with 20
turns #28 on an FT37-43 toroid (140 uH on the AADE LC meter--close enough to
the specified 100 uH). That was easier than hunting for a molded choke. I
built the preamp "ugly stle" on a scrap of PCB--quicker for me than using
Manhattan construction, especially since I wanted to see how the preamp
worked.
The preamp turned out OK, with the following voltages:
Vcc 12.12 volts (I set mine same as Jim's); collector 11.55 volts; base 1.68
volts (my red LED was somewhat lower bias than Jim's LED); emitter/56 ohm
1.04 volts, for 18.6 mA through the transistor, and 195 mW power
dissipation.
Being blessed with some test equipment in the home workshop, I measured the
gain and IMD performance. Using 13.5 and 14.5 MHz tones set for 0 dBm at the
output of the amp to the HP3585A spectrum analyzer, I measured +34 dBm OIP3
and +54 dBm OIP2--very respectable for a single-ended preamp at this current
level. The preamp won't be limiting receiver performance! For gain,
using -40 dBm input at 14.0 MHz, gave -29.2 dBm output, for +10.8 dB gain.
The SA only goes to 40 MHz, and the preamp was only down -0.5dB at 40 MHz.
At the low end the -3dB point was at 1.08 MHz. I've built Norton preamps
before, but used base bias resistors--this was the first time I tried a LED
for bias--it works great. I've got my 2N2/20 already started now, with the
RX preamp finished and tested--at least a breadboard version!
73,
Steve AA7U
NE Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 4:41 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2n2/20 Norton RF Amp Bias Values
> OK Guys and Gals,
>
> Here are the measurements for the Norton Amp in my 2N2/20 running off of a
> 12
> volts supply.
>
> Vcc = 12.12 volts
> Q1 collector = 11.46 volts
> Q1 base = 1.92 volts
> Q1 emitter = 1.27 volts
>
> Voltage at hot end of emitter resistor R3, 56 Ohms = 1.22 volts
>
> Therefore, current in the transistor is 21.8 ma. (1.22v/56Ohm)and power
> being
> dissipated is 222 milliwatts ((11.46-1.27)v*21.8ma), well below the 300
> milliwatt rating for the plastic PN2222 transistor. I put my pinky on it
> and it
> is warm, but not hot as others have reported.
>
> Hope this information is useful.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
I've posted a photo in a folder entitled Nate's 2n2/20.
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Jim Kortge
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 5:00 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: RE:2n2/20 oscillations
k9qb wrote:
> Hi Nate...
>
> Just a quick question...
>
> On your Norton Amp transistor EMITTER, what are you seeing for a DC
> voltage to ground?...For that matter, what's the DC voltage at each
> leg of that transistor?
>
> Also, can you take a close up picture of the RF preamp and send to me?
>
> You've got me real curious.
> My direct address is k9qb@yahoo.com
>
> Mike, WA5PSE
Nate,
Better yet, post a picture in the files or photos section of the 2N2 group
so we
can all see it. I'm curious too. I've NEVER had one of the Norton Amps
oscillate
and I've built many of them.
72 and thanks,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Steve Ratzlaff wrote:
> Hi,
> Inspired by all this talk about the 2N2/20 preamp, and having never built
> that, I've begun gathering parts to build a 2N2/20 rig for myself. Ye olde
> junk box should have some of the parts, except for mixers and crystals.
> I breadboarded the Norton RX preamp today just to see what mine would do.
> The only place I deviated slightly was winding my own 100 uH choke, with 20
> turns #28 on an FT37-43 toroid (140 uH on the AADE LC meter--close enough to
> the specified 100 uH). That was easier than hunting for a molded choke. I
> built the preamp "ugly stle" on a scrap of PCB--quicker for me than using
> Manhattan construction, especially since I wanted to see how the preamp
> worked.
>
> The preamp turned out OK, with the following voltages:
> Vcc 12.12 volts (I set mine same as Jim's); collector 11.55 volts; base 1.68
> volts (my red LED was somewhat lower bias than Jim's LED); emitter/56 ohm
> 1.04 volts, for 18.6 mA through the transistor, and 195 mW power
> dissipation.
> Being blessed with some test equipment in the home workshop, I measured the
> gain and IMD performance. Using 13.5 and 14.5 MHz tones set for 0 dBm at the
> output of the amp to the HP3585A spectrum analyzer, I measured +34 dBm OIP3
> and +54 dBm OIP2--very respectable for a single-ended preamp at this current
> level. The preamp won't be limiting receiver performance! For gain,
> using -40 dBm input at 14.0 MHz, gave -29.2 dBm output, for +10.8 dB gain.
> The SA only goes to 40 MHz, and the preamp was only down -0.5dB at 40 MHz.
> At the low end the -3dB point was at 1.08 MHz. I've built Norton preamps
> before, but used base bias resistors--this was the first time I tried a LED
> for bias--it works great. I've got my 2N2/20 already started now, with the
> RX preamp finished and tested--at least a breadboard version!
> 73,
> Steve AA7U
> NE Oregon
Steve,
Thanks for the great post concerning the Norton RF Amp using a PN2222. Did you
also happen to measure return loss? I may have that plot of the amp somewhere
in my many, many files.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS...good luck with you 2N2/20 build. With the test equipment and knowledge you
have, we all will probably learn more about this rig! :-)
Hi Jim
Just to let You know I have solved the problem my low TX output.
It was as always a very simple solution.
After tweaking everything replacing a lot of components it was as You suggested a low
TxVcc about 7 volts. I changed the Q17 2N2907 and resoldered the circuit and suddently
I had 4,5 Watts out. I guess it was a faulty Q17. Kind of silly that
I didn´t check it in the beginning, but on the other hand troubleshooting makes You learn a lot
about this great 2N2-20.
Well once again thanks for You help and support.
72/Frank
SM5QU/KC0YQI
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3556|3539|2007-02-10 17:26:56|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2/20 low output|Frank wrote:
> Hi Jim
>
> Just to let You know I have solved the problem my low TX output.
> It was as always a very simple solution.
> After tweaking everything replacing a lot of components it was as You suggested a low
> TxVcc about 7 volts. I changed the Q17 2N2907 and resoldered the circuit and suddently
> I had 4,5 Watts out. I guess it was a faulty Q17. Kind of silly that
> I didn´t check it in the beginning, but on the other hand troubleshooting makes You learn a lot
> about this great 2N2-20.
>
> Well once again thanks for You help and support.
>
> 72/Frank
> SM5QU/KC0YQI
>
Frank,
Thanks for the kind words and I'm thrilled you found the problem. Interesting is
was a faulty 2N2907, but that transistor is key to the transmit side of the rig
working! 4.5 watts is more like what I would expect you to be getting.
Congratulations, and hopefully, we can work someday.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS, please send me a picture of your completed rig sometime if you can. I'd like
to have that for my picture gallery that will go up on my web site someday.
Nathan DeLong wrote:
> I've posted a photo in a folder entitled Nate's 2n2/20.
I just looked at it and the amp looks like it is built correctly. I can't see
some of the details, like how many turns are on the toroid etc., but the overall
layout looks fine to me.
Thanks for posting the pix Nate. Very educational.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I did have one thought though as I was ready to send this, any chance that the
0.1uF capacitors that you used for bypassing are not good? What was the source
for those? If they weren't 0.1 uF or open, that would cause lots of problems in
the rig in most of the stages.
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Jim Kortge
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 8:32 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: RE:2n2/20 oscillations
Nathan DeLong wrote:
> I've posted a photo in a folder entitled Nate's 2n2/20.
I just looked at it and the amp looks like it is built correctly. I can't
see
some of the details, like how many turns are on the toroid etc., but the
overall
layout looks fine to me.
Thanks for posting the pix Nate. Very educational.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I did have one thought though as I was ready to send this, any chance that
the
0.1uF capacitors that you used for bypassing are not good? What was the
source
for those? If they weren't 0.1 uF or open, that would cause lots of
problems in
the rig in most of the stages.
The 0.1 uF bypass caps are all new 50v X7R 10% ceramic caps. from Mouser.
I will check them all with my AADE meter to make sure I didn't pick up a
wrong value.
I'll let you know what I find. Thanks again for your support.
72,
Nate, KC8YRZ
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 11:25 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/20 low output
>
Frank,
Thanks for the kind words and I'm thrilled you found the problem. Interesting is
was a faulty 2N2907, but that transistor is key to the transmit side of the rig
working! 4.5 watts is more like what I would expect you to be getting.
Congratulations, and hopefully, we can work someday.
--That would be very nice.
I have uploaded a picture of my transceiver in the Photo section on the Yahoo-group.It´s even got the constructor´s name on it !!
It´s in the SM5QU/KC0YQI folder
72/ Frank
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS, please send me a picture of your completed rig sometime if you can. I'd like
to have that for my picture gallery that will go up on my web site someday.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Frank,
Thanks for posting the picture of your rig...I like the addition of
the counter, keyer, and S-meter.
How's that S-meter working out for you?...I might be interested in
using that in my build.
It seems like it should be an easy thing to pick off some audio,
rectify it, charge a cap to hold a voltage long enough to register
on a surplus "CB" S-meter.
Mind telling me how you set yours up?
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Frank" wrote:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Kortge
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 11:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/20 low output
>
>
>
>
>
> >
>
> Frank,
>
> Thanks for the kind words and I'm thrilled you found the
problem. Interesting is
> was a faulty 2N2907, but that transistor is key to the transmit
side of the rig
> working! 4.5 watts is more like what I would expect you to be
getting.
>
> Congratulations, and hopefully, we can work someday.
>
> --That would be very nice.
>
> I have uploaded a picture of my transceiver in the Photo section
on the Yahoo-group.It´s even got the constructor´s name on it !!
>
> It´s in the SM5QU/KC0YQI folder
>
>
>
> 72/ Frank
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS, please send me a picture of your completed rig sometime if
you can. I'd like
> to have that for my picture gallery that will go up on my web
site someday.
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Frank wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Kortge
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 11:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/20 low output
>
>
>
>
>
> >
>
> Frank,
>
> Thanks for the kind words and I'm thrilled you found the problem. Interesting is
> was a faulty 2N2907, but that transistor is key to the transmit side of the rig
> working! 4.5 watts is more like what I would expect you to be getting.
>
> Congratulations, and hopefully, we can work someday.
>
> --That would be very nice.
>
> I have uploaded a picture of my transceiver in the Photo section on the Yahoo-group.It´s even got the constructor´s name on it !!
>
> It´s in the SM5QU/KC0YQI folder
>
>
>
> 72/ Frank
Great look rig Frank. Thanks for posting the pix.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS...how about adding a pix of the inside so we can see that too. I know I would
be interested in that. :-)
Here are the results of the input Return Loss measurements on the 2N2/20
Norton RX preamp. I used the same Return Loss bridge circuit that's been in
SSD and EMRFD (and on Jim's webpage), except I used a wider bandwidth
transformer. I used an FT37-75 toroid with 13 bifilar turns (425 uH), to get
the response down to LF, where I do a lot of experimenting. I also used 49.9
ohm resistors. With a 49.9 ohm load on the Device input, directivity of the
bridge was 20 dB return loss (1.22 VSWR) at 100 kHz, increasing to 30 dB at
300 kHz, and a maximum of 40 dB (1.02 VSWR) at 5 MHz, decreasing to 34.5 dB
(1.05 VSWR) at 30 MHz. So, this simple return loss bridge will work well
from 100 kHz-30MHz. I used the HP3585A spectrum analyzer with its builtin
tracking generator for both the RF source and the Detector. Initial
calibration was with the Device input open. A 30 dB attenuator was used on
the output of the tracking generator--giving a solid 50 ohms output for the
signal source, just in case there might be some impedance variation from the
tracking generator's output.
Terminating the 2N2/20 Norton preamp with 49.9 ohms, input Return Loss
measured:
1 MHz 4 dB (The FT37-43 core doesn't have enough inductance, which is not a
concern for use at 14 MHz.)
5 MHz 12 dB (1.67 VSWR)
10 MHz 14 dB (1.50 VSWR)
15 MHz 14 dB (same at 14.0-14.5 MHz)
20 MHz 13 dB (1.6 VSWR)
25 MHz 12.5 dB
30 MHz 12.5 dB
A separate test measured the input impedance over frequency--this was much
closer to 50 ohms (+/- about 7 ohms or less), which should give a better
Return Loss. But the input impedance apparently has a reactive component, as
the actual Return Loss is poorer than the input impedance by itself would
indicate. The Norton amp topology is fairly "transparent" for input/output
impedance--it more or less reflects the impedance it sees at the input or
output. But not totally transparent as the Return Loss measurements show.
This is the first time I've measured Return Loss for a Norton amp--I've
measured input impedance before, and I'm a little surprised the actual input
impedance isn't closer to 50 ohms resistive, with a 50 ohm noninductive load
on the output.
Perhaps Jim will find the results he measured on his own preamp, and we can
compare them.
73,
Steve AA7U
NE Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge" <jokortge@prodigy.net>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2/20 Norton RF Amp Bias Values
> Steve,
>
> Thanks for the great post concerning the Norton RF Amp using a PN2222. Did
> you
> also happen to measure return loss? I may have that plot of the amp
> somewhere
> in my many, many files.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS...good luck with you 2N2/20 build. With the test equipment and
> knowledge you
> have, we all will probably learn more about this rig! :-)
Your return loss/VSWR measurements seem to correspond with Dallas
Lankford's measured impedance match of a Norton Amp (input impedance
30-40 ohms/ VSWR 1.25 - 1.67 ).... perhaps there is an error somewhere
in your input impedance measurements
http://www.kongsfjord.no/dl/Amplifiers/Ultralinear%202N5109%20And%202N3053%20Amplifiers.pdf "The two way impedance match to Z0 is an ideal characteristic of BJT
CBTF amps based on a mathematical derivation which uses simplifying
assumptions that are not true for actual common base amps, as pointed
out above. Based on measurements with several BJT CBTF qmps, I have
found that if such an amp works into a load of Z0 ohms real, then the
input impedance tends to be about 60% to 80% of Z0. I have not
attempted to determine whether a perfect match to input impedance
(using a broadband matching transformer) would increase the ICP2in and
ICP3in of these BJT CBTF amps because the intercepts are already so
high that there seems to be no need to raise them slightly higher by
this means. Also, there are other easier means to raise the intercepts
higher. For example, a 1:11:4 CBTF amp with appropriate transformer
and biassing adjusted for 20 mA collector current and with appropriate
bypassing and coupling capacitors has flat power gain of about 12 dB
from about 100 kHz to beyond 30 MHz, while the ICP3in is about +38 dBm
from 10 MHz to 30 MHz, but falls off slowly below 10 MHz to about +34
dBm at about 1.6 MHz, and to about +27 dBm at about 455 kHz. This
decrease of ICP3in as frequency decreases seems to be normal and due
to the diode junctions of BJT's. For higher ICP3in within and below
the MW band, one may use a 2:11:4 transformer, which has a flat 6 dB
power gain, and ICP3in greater than +35 dBm for all frequencies
greater than 455 kHz. The two way impedance match of a 2:11:4
transformer is not perfect either, and gives an input impedance of
about 160 % of Z0. For a 2:11:4 CBTF amp working into a 50 ohms real
load, this would be an input impedance of about 80 ohms, which is
still a reasonably good match to a 50 ohms source impedance."
Dallas doesn't show any return loss measurements so there is
definitely some experimental work that can be done to further the art,
I think you are on the right track
JR
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Ratzlaff" wrote:
>
< SNIP >
>
> Terminating the 2N2/20 Norton preamp with 49.9 ohms, input Return Loss
> measured:
> 1 MHz 4 dB (The FT37-43 core doesn't have enough inductance, which
is not a
> concern for use at 14 MHz.)
> 5 MHz 12 dB (1.67 VSWR)
> 10 MHz 14 dB (1.50 VSWR)
> 15 MHz 14 dB (same at 14.0-14.5 MHz)
> 20 MHz 13 dB (1.6 VSWR)
> 25 MHz 12.5 dB
> 30 MHz 12.5 dB
>
> A separate test measured the input impedance over frequency--this
was much
> closer to 50 ohms (+/- about 7 ohms or less), which should give a
better
> Return Loss. But the input impedance apparently has a reactive
component, as
> the actual Return Loss is poorer than the input impedance by itself
would
> indicate. The Norton amp topology is fairly "transparent" for
input/output
> impedance--it more or less reflects the impedance it sees at the
input or
> output. But not totally transparent as the Return Loss measurements
show.
> This is the first time I've measured Return Loss for a Norton amp--I've
> measured input impedance before, and I'm a little surprised the
actual input
> impedance isn't closer to 50 ohms resistive, with a 50 ohm
noninductive load
> on the output.
> Perhaps Jim will find the results he measured on his own preamp, and
we can
> compare them.
>
>
> 73,
> Steve AA7U
> NE Oregon
Hi JR,
Thanks for the comments and reference. I'll do some more checking and
testing and see what turns out.
73,
Steve AA7U
NE Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "jr_dakota" <SG2112@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 1:55 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2n2/20 Norton RF Amp input Return Loss measured
> Your return loss/VSWR measurements seem to correspond with Dallas
> Lankford's measured impedance match of a Norton Amp (input impedance
> 30-40 ohms/ VSWR 1.25 - 1.67 ).... perhaps there is an error somewhere
> in your input impedance measurements
>
> http://www.kongsfjord.no/dl/Amplifiers/Ultralinear%202N5109%20And%202N3053%20Amplifiers.pdf
> Dallas doesn't show any return loss measurements so there is
> definitely some experimental work that can be done to further the art,
> I think you are on the right track
>
> JR
Hi Mike
Sorry for getting back so late but work...
Well I use a circuit described on
http://www.zerobeat.net/g3ycc/week1.htm for my S.meter.Lately I have added a LM380 audio amp to boost up the signal. The 380 amp is taking audio from
the "hot" side of P4 in the schematic .Then the output of the the 380 amp goes to the input of the audio derived S-meter.
I was quite puzzeled why I had to use the amplifier because the circuit itself should be enought to get a S-meter reading
until I discovered that my meter was a 1mA ( not 200uA) type.
So if You have a 200 uA type meter I guess You dont have to use a LM380 in order to boost up the signal.
The circuit works great and does not "steel" any noticeable audio.
Hope this helps
72/Frank
SM5QU/KC0YQI
----- Original Message -----
From: k9qb
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 4:37 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2/20 low output
Hi Frank,
Thanks for posting the picture of your rig...I like the addition of
the counter, keyer, and S-meter.
How's that S-meter working out for you?...I might be interested in
using that in my build.
It seems like it should be an easy thing to pick off some audio,
rectify it, charge a cap to hold a voltage long enough to register
on a surplus "CB" S-meter.
Mind telling me how you set yours up?
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Frank" wrote:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Kortge
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 11:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/20 low output
>
>
>
>
>
> >
>
> Frank,
>
> Thanks for the kind words and I'm thrilled you found the
problem. Interesting is
> was a faulty 2N2907, but that transistor is key to the transmit
side of the rig
> working! 4.5 watts is more like what I would expect you to be
getting.
>
> Congratulations, and hopefully, we can work someday.
>
> --That would be very nice.
>
> I have uploaded a picture of my transceiver in the Photo section
on the Yahoo-group.It´s even got the constructor´s name on it !!
>
> It´s in the SM5QU/KC0YQI folder
>
>
>
> 72/ Frank
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS, please send me a picture of your completed rig sometime if
you can. I'd like
> to have that for my picture gallery that will go up on my web
site someday.
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Frank,
Hey, thanks for the link...it's pretty much what I'd envisioned.
Yep, it doesn't "steal" enough audio to affect what you hear because
of the hi-Z input of the FET.
The same thing can be accomplished by using an op-amp...this could
be an ideal application for one of those "noisy" LM386's that you
hear people crabbing about!
On the other hand, in keeping with the "discreet" approach of the
2N2_XX series, it might be better to stick with the transistor
arrangement.
BTW...You should have plenty juice available from this circuit, to
drive the 1 ma meter, if you re-arrange the NPN transistor base bias
resistor to connect directly to VCC and reduce the collector supply
resistor...that's really what's restricting your meter drive...
That's a lot simpler than adding another complete amp ckt.
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Frank" wrote:
>
> Hi Mike
> Sorry for getting back so late but work...
> Well I use a circuit described on
http://www.zerobeat.net/g3ycc/week1.htm
> for my S.meter.Lately I have added a LM380 audio amp to boost up
the signal. The 380 amp is taking audio from
> the "hot" side of P4 in the schematic .Then the output of the the
380 amp goes to the input of the audio derived S-meter.
> I was quite puzzeled why I had to use the amplifier because the
circuit itself should be enought to get a S-meter reading
> until I discovered that my meter was a 1mA ( not 200uA) type.
> So if You have a 200 uA type meter I guess You dont have to use a
LM380 in order to boost up the signal.
> The circuit works great and does not "steel" any noticeable audio.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> 72/Frank
> SM5QU/KC0YQI
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: k9qb
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 4:37 AM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2/20 low output
>
>
> Hi Frank,
>
> Thanks for posting the picture of your rig...I like the addition
of
> the counter, keyer, and S-meter.
>
> How's that S-meter working out for you?...I might be interested
in
> using that in my build.
>
> It seems like it should be an easy thing to pick off some audio,
> rectify it, charge a cap to hold a voltage long enough to
register
> on a surplus "CB" S-meter.
>
> Mind telling me how you set yours up?
>
> Mike, WA5PSE
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Frank" wrote:
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jim Kortge
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 11:25 PM
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N2/20 low output
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> >
> > Frank,
> >
> > Thanks for the kind words and I'm thrilled you found the
> problem. Interesting is
> > was a faulty 2N2907, but that transistor is key to the
transmit
> side of the rig
> > working! 4.5 watts is more like what I would expect you to be
> getting.
> >
> > Congratulations, and hopefully, we can work someday.
> >
> > --That would be very nice.
> >
> > I have uploaded a picture of my transceiver in the Photo
section
> on the Yahoo-group.It´s even got the constructor´s name on it !!
> >
> > It´s in the SM5QU/KC0YQI folder
> >
> >
> >
> > 72/ Frank
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> > PS, please send me a picture of your completed rig sometime if
> you can. I'd like
> > to have that for my picture gallery that will go up on my web
> site someday.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
I'm probably the most recent person to begin building my own 2N2/20 rig--at
least the receiver portion for now. I received my mixers and toroids and
caps order from kitsandparts.com and some other stuff from Mouser.com this
past week; and my 11 MHz matched crystals from designer Jim K8IQY arrived
Saturday.
I began the receiver construction Saturday, and managed to get the main
audio amp along with the audio preamp, BFO and product detector finished and
tested by late Saturday evening with much delays, digging up parts out of
the junkbox that I hadn't ordered. I left off the audio Mute section for
now; I'll add than when I get the TX section built, probably at the end. I'm
building each section "ugly style" on a small PCB groundplane for ease of
testing (sacrilege, I know, not building a 2N2/xx with Manhattan
construction, but I've always liked ugly construction). It's easy to test
each module by itself, and easy to connect the modules together later on. I
built the audio amp first. Mine begins to rolloff frequencies at around 500
Hz; I'm not sure why that is. I prefer a BFO pitch in the 400-450 Hz range,
so I'd rather not have the gain rolling off there--it's not a lot, but it is
present. I used the largest audio transformer Mouser carried (several
sizes), thinking I'd get better LF response that way. Otherwise, the audio
amp works OK. It draws 61 mA.
I built the BFO, product detector and audio preamp next, as a second small
module, shielding the BFO from the rest with a 3/4" tall shield strip.
Testing that module by itself, everything worked properly, and using a
signal generator, with o'scope on the output, I could easily observe a 450
Hz audio sinewave on the output with the 11 MHz IF input level from the
generator down at -90 dBm--a very low level, with only the audio preamp
providing any gain after the mixer's approximate -6dB conversion loss. I was
pleasantly surprised at the sensitivity.
I had forgotten to order any 1N5711 mixer diodes, but an hour or so rooting
through my fairly well-equipped junkbox turned up exactly 4 of them--just
the right number needed--used, with very short leads, apparently scavenged
from some other project, long forgotten. A quick check with an ohmmeter
indicated good F/B ratio, and the 4 were even pretty close for forward
resistance match. And they worked fine in the product detector. Current
drain for the audio preamp was 2.5 mA, with about 10 mA for BFO and preamp
together. The mixer transformer measured 38 uH on the AADE LC meter, for the
recommended 10 bifilar turns (measured for a single winding)--giving more
than enough reactance at 11 and 14 MHz to work very well in the homebrew
mixer.
It's always extremely satisfying to build something and it immediately
works, and I certainly got that good feeling from these two initial modules.
Next step--roofing filter, IF amp and main xtal filter, which I'll probably
try to put on another small module.
More progress reports as things get built and tested. Lots of fun! Did I
mention I like to build and test things? :)
73,
Steve AA7U
NE Oregon
|
3568|3567|2007-02-18 20:38:29|k9qb|Re: 2N2/20 build Progress Report #1|Hi Steve,
I'm a little further along than you and have been having a ball
building the 20 m variant...
As far as your audio response goes, try bumping up the audio
coupling cap to the speaker amp from the (IMO, now!)woefully
undersized value of .1mf to something a little more comfy like 1 or
2.2 or even 5 mf...That should fix your roll-off issue.
Also, other diodes would work in the PD, but, the 5711's are
preferred.
You got guts going "ugly" style...when I do that, it's just too ugly
to work!!
You'll find this bunch friendly and chock full of ideas and Jim is
just great..he's always helpful and prompt...
(Also, he's not one of those curmudgeons that thinks there's only
one way (his way!) to get something done)
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Ratzlaff"
wrote:
>
> I'm probably the most recent person to begin building my own
2N2/20 rig--at
> least the receiver portion for now. I received my mixers and
toroids and
> caps order from kitsandparts.com and some other stuff from
Mouser.com this
> past week; and my 11 MHz matched crystals from designer Jim K8IQY
arrived
> Saturday.
> I began the receiver construction Saturday, and managed to get the
main
> audio amp along with the audio preamp, BFO and product detector
finished and
> tested by late Saturday evening with much delays, digging up parts
out of
> the junkbox that I hadn't ordered. I left off the audio Mute
section for
> now; I'll add than when I get the TX section built, probably at
the end. I'm
> building each section "ugly style" on a small PCB groundplane for
ease of
> testing (sacrilege, I know, not building a 2N2/xx with Manhattan
> construction, but I've always liked ugly construction). It's easy
to test
> each module by itself, and easy to connect the modules together
later on. I
> built the audio amp first. Mine begins to rolloff frequencies at
around 500
> Hz; I'm not sure why that is. I prefer a BFO pitch in the 400-450
Hz range,
> so I'd rather not have the gain rolling off there--it's not a lot,
but it is
> present. I used the largest audio transformer Mouser carried
(several
> sizes), thinking I'd get better LF response that way. Otherwise,
the audio
> amp works OK. It draws 61 mA.
> I built the BFO, product detector and audio preamp next, as a
second small
> module, shielding the BFO from the rest with a 3/4" tall shield
strip.
> Testing that module by itself, everything worked properly, and
using a
> signal generator, with o'scope on the output, I could easily
observe a 450
> Hz audio sinewave on the output with the 11 MHz IF input level
from the
> generator down at -90 dBm--a very low level, with only the audio
preamp
> providing any gain after the mixer's approximate -6dB conversion
loss. I was
> pleasantly surprised at the sensitivity.
> I had forgotten to order any 1N5711 mixer diodes, but an hour or
so rooting
> through my fairly well-equipped junkbox turned up exactly 4 of
them--just
> the right number needed--used, with very short leads, apparently
scavenged
> from some other project, long forgotten. A quick check with an
ohmmeter
> indicated good F/B ratio, and the 4 were even pretty close for
forward
> resistance match. And they worked fine in the product detector.
Current
> drain for the audio preamp was 2.5 mA, with about 10 mA for BFO
and preamp
> together. The mixer transformer measured 38 uH on the AADE LC
meter, for the
> recommended 10 bifilar turns (measured for a single winding)--
giving more
> than enough reactance at 11 and 14 MHz to work very well in the
homebrew
> mixer.
> It's always extremely satisfying to build something and it
immediately
> works, and I certainly got that good feeling from these two
initial modules.
>
> Next step--roofing filter, IF amp and main xtal filter, which I'll
probably
> try to put on another small module.
> More progress reports as things get built and tested. Lots of fun!
Did I
> mention I like to build and test things? :)
>
> 73,
> Steve AA7U
> NE Oregon
>
Today I finished the post-mixer amp, mixer, and RF preamp module, and
connected all 4 modules together to have a functioning receiver section. The
input RF bandpass filter and the VFO have not been built yet, but using
signal generators for the local oscillator and the RF input, the receiver
works properly on the bench--easily hearing a -130 dBm (0.07 uV) signal at
14 MHz.
My IF strip's 4-crystal main filter is centered at 11.000,340 MHz. -6 dB
bandwidth is 390 Hz. -60 dB bandwidth is 1845 Hz, for a 4.73 6:60 dB shape
factor. -70 dB bandwidth is 2255 Hz; -80 dB bandwidth is 2865 Hz. The filter
is almost perfectly symmetrical down to the approximate -85 dBC noise floor,
and has a nice rounded peak which should work very well for CW signals.
The audio amp seems to be the limiting factor; it overloads first and causes
aural distortion (as well as visible, on the o'scope) at about -95 dBm RF
input and higher, using my Sony hi-fi stereo headphones (with both sides
connected in parallel--23 ohms) for the audio load.
The BFO is very stable, and easily adjusted for the desired pitch. I needed
an extra 10 pF added across the variable cap in the IF stage in order to
peak the output. But the peak is broad and is only a few tenths of a dB off
from the precise peak using the design values of 100 pF fixed and 50 pF
variable--hardly worth bothering with. But I wanted my variable cap to not
be at the exteme end of its adjustment, and added the extra 10 pF cap to
accomplish that. My final version receive RF preamp used a 10 uH choke on
the emitter instead of the specified 100 uH. That worked fine, giving over
850 ohms reactance to the nominal 50 ohms seen by the choke at the preamp's
input. Of course the specified 100 uH choke would work as well--I had a 10
uH one handy and used it instead.
The receiver appears to be working properly, and is stable. Touching
different sections doesn't cause anything more than a slight hum (at input
of the main audio amp) or increase in noise (at the last crystal in the
4-crystal filter). Of course touching the BFO causes the pitch to slightly
change.
Total receiver section current drain is 163 mA with 12.6 volt bench supply
used for power.
(Signal generators used for the bench tests were HP8640B's.)
73,
Steve AA7U
NE Oregon
|
3570|3570|2007-02-20 22:50:13|Steve Ratzlaff|2N2/20 build Progress Report #3|Today I got the complete TX strip built along with the TX/RX switch, built
on one module, with a 2SC2075 for the final amp transistor. I used a sig gen
for the mixer TX VFO input (3 MHz) for the tests, set for +1 dBm output. (I
haven't built the VFO yet.)
One of the tests was to measure TX Driver output into 50 ohms, disconnected
from the final PA--I was getting very low output. Eventually I noticed I
hadn't installed the 4.3 kohm bias resistor. I had it on my list of
resistors to pull. When I came to the TX Driver construction, I noticed I'd
pulled a 43 kohm--wrong value. I thought I'd wait until the end of the build
then find the right value and install it. Of course I forgot it completely.
With the proper resistor installed and TX Driver working properly, the final
test was to measure power output. With a 13.40 volt (under TX load) power
supply, I'm getting about 6.5 watts output with the TX Drive Level set for
max. I think this is about what I should be getting, and I'm pleased with
the results.
I'll eventually put some pictures in the yahoo Photo section; someone might
be interested in seeing how my "ugly style" construction looks--it's not
quite as "ugly" as the name might imply. But I'm recommend you build your
own 2N2/xx using the Manhattan construction style that Jim espouses! :)
73,
Steve AA7U
NE Oregon
|
3571|3567|2007-02-21 01:49:19|Steve Ratzlaff|Re: 2N2/20 build Progress Report #1|Hi Mike,
I'm very tardy thanking you for the comments. I'll try a larger input
coupling cap on the main audio amp and see how that works.
I should be using Manhattan construction for this project, since all of
Jim's designs use that. But I've built with "ugly-style" for many years, and
am more comfortable/proficient doing it that way, so will make my own 2N2/20
that way. I'll post some pictures when I'm done--you can compare to your own
Manhattan method. I don't think there's much if any performance difference
building something with Manhattan or with ugly-style. The use of the PCB
groundplane in both methods I think is what gives the good RF performance
for these construction techniques.
Hope you're making good progress building your own 2N2/20.
73,
Steve AA7U
NE Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "k9qb" <k9qb@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 5:38 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2/20 build Progress Report #1
> Hi Steve,
>
> I'm a little further along than you and have been having a ball
> building the 20 m variant...
>
> As far as your audio response goes, try bumping up the audio
> coupling cap to the speaker amp from the (IMO, now!)woefully
> undersized value of .1mf to something a little more comfy like 1 or
> 2.2 or even 5 mf...That should fix your roll-off issue.
>
> Also, other diodes would work in the PD, but, the 5711's are
> preferred.
>
> You got guts going "ugly" style...when I do that, it's just too ugly
> to work!!
>
> You'll find this bunch friendly and chock full of ideas and Jim is
> just great..he's always helpful and prompt...
> (Also, he's not one of those curmudgeons that thinks there's only
> one way (his way!) to get something done)
>
> Mike, WA5PSE
Great progress there Steve...
You've just blown right past me.
I am antsy to get back into the build mode here...
There was a recent addition to my household...My 17 year old son
decided to come to live with me and things have been helter-skelter.
So, haven't had opportunity to get back to the bench.
I understand, first hand, how easy it is to accidently swap parts or
select wrong parts...I did that when I swapped a 10k resistor and
a .1mf ceramic cap on the 30m rockMite project I built a while
back...Well, they're shaped the same and the markings on the board
were very close, and, oh well, enuff with the excuses!
It'll be good to see your pics when you get a chance.
Mike
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Ratzlaff" wrote:
>
> Today I got the complete TX strip built along with the TX/RX
switch, built
> on one module, with a 2SC2075 for the final amp transistor. I used
a sig gen
> for the mixer TX VFO input (3 MHz) for the tests, set for +1 dBm
output. (I
> haven't built the VFO yet.)
> One of the tests was to measure TX Driver output into 50 ohms,
disconnected
> from the final PA--I was getting very low output. Eventually I
noticed I
> hadn't installed the 4.3 kohm bias resistor. I had it on my list of
> resistors to pull. When I came to the TX Driver construction, I
noticed I'd
> pulled a 43 kohm--wrong value. I thought I'd wait until the end of
the build
> then find the right value and install it. Of course I forgot it
completely.
> With the proper resistor installed and TX Driver working properly,
the final
> test was to measure power output. With a 13.40 volt (under TX load)
power
> supply, I'm getting about 6.5 watts output with the TX Drive Level
set for
> max. I think this is about what I should be getting, and I'm
pleased with
> the results.
> I'll eventually put some pictures in the yahoo Photo section;
someone might
> be interested in seeing how my "ugly style" construction looks--
it's not
> quite as "ugly" as the name might imply. But I'm recommend you
build your
> own 2N2/xx using the Manhattan construction style that Jim
espouses! :)
>
> 73,
> Steve AA7U
> NE Oregon
>
Steve Ratzlaff wrote:
> Today I got the complete TX strip built along with the TX/RX switch, built
> on one module, with a 2SC2075 for the final amp transistor. I used a sig gen
> for the mixer TX VFO input (3 MHz) for the tests, set for +1 dBm output. (I
> haven't built the VFO yet.)
> One of the tests was to measure TX Driver output into 50 ohms, disconnected
> from the final PA--I was getting very low output. Eventually I noticed I
> hadn't installed the 4.3 kohm bias resistor. I had it on my list of
> resistors to pull. When I came to the TX Driver construction, I noticed I'd
> pulled a 43 kohm--wrong value. I thought I'd wait until the end of the build
> then find the right value and install it. Of course I forgot it completely.
> With the proper resistor installed and TX Driver working properly, the final
> test was to measure power output. With a 13.40 volt (under TX load) power
> supply, I'm getting about 6.5 watts output with the TX Drive Level set for
> max. I think this is about what I should be getting, and I'm pleased with
> the results.
> I'll eventually put some pictures in the yahoo Photo section; someone might
> be interested in seeing how my "ugly style" construction looks--it's not
> quite as "ugly" as the name might imply. But I'm recommend you build your
> own 2N2/xx using the Manhattan construction style that Jim espouses! :)
>
> 73,
> Steve AA7U
> NE Oregon
>
Steve,
Your ripping through the build of your 2N2/20 faster than I can keep up to
comment on your posts. Way to go. I looked for the measurement info on the
Norton Amp in mine and still haven't found any of it. Sure don't know where I
stashed it on the computer. I hope it isn't still on the older machine. I
recently updated my shack computer. I guess before I find the old computer a new
home, I'll have to go digging one more time. Thought I have everything that was
important off of it. Maybe not!!!!
6.5 watts out with a 2SC2075 sounds very good. I don't think that transistor is
quite as hot as the 2SC2166, but who knows. I have some of them but have not
tested any. Maybe time to do that.
Anxiously awaiting the pictures of your efforts, as I'm sure others are.
Keep the great posts coming.......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I'm WA5PSA (Brad); not to be confused with WA5PSE (Mike). He's the
smarter one. Even if I have been a ham for 15 seconds longer than
him. Just look at the calls.
Anyway, I've been moving slowly along on my build. If anyone's
interested, I'm blogging my 2n2/20 build here:
http://wa5psa.blogspot.com/ Warning: My posts and pictures are not for those with weak techno-
stomachs.
73
Brad
WA5PSA
redbudpub wrote:
> I'm WA5PSA (Brad); not to be confused with WA5PSE (Mike). He's the
> smarter one. Even if I have been a ham for 15 seconds longer than
> him. Just look at the calls.
>
> Anyway, I've been moving slowly along on my build. If anyone's
> interested, I'm blogging my 2n2/20 build here:
>
> http://wa5psa.blogspot.com/
>
> Warning: My posts and pictures are not for those with weak techno-
> stomachs.
>
> 73
> Brad
> WA5PSA
I like it!! Taking good close up pictures of building progress is hard isn't
it? I use my trusty old 2.1 MP Olymnpus 2100UZ with a set of close up lenses,
natural light with flash augmentation. The flash itself is covered with a piece
of white paper or translucent mylar drawing velum to disperse the light, or I
put a small mirror in front of the flash and direct it up to the ceiling so that
it bounces and disperses the light. Otherwise, you get those really intense hot
spots in the picture. You have to stop the camera way down to get good depth of
field so that everything is in focus.
Keep up the good work Brad and we'll keep following your progress on your blog.
72 and many thanks,
Jim, K8IQY
"Taking good close up pictures of building progress is hard isn't it?"
Thanks for the photo advice. I'll try some of that.
You might have noticed, I've got .8v peak coming out of the Receive
LO. I've done some figuring and that looks like about 7 dbm to me.
Maybe a little high. What I'm doing is dropping the .8v peak down to
rms, then estimating the dbm output using charts in NA5N's Data
Book. Those charts are geared to 50 ohms. Am I far off? Am I
thinking right?
Brad
WA5PSA
|
3577|3574|2007-02-24 14:24:56|Jim Kortge|Re: Liberal arts major's progress.|redbudpub wrote:
> "Taking good close up pictures of building progress is hard isn't it?"
>
> Thanks for the photo advice. I'll try some of that.
Oh, and probably the most important thing, put the camera on a tripod. I've
never been able to get good pictures hand holding the camera, even with image
stabilization turned on. With the camera stopped down, the exposure times are
too long for hand holding unless you have lots of light.
Also, if you want the pictures to "pop", go down to your local fabric store and
buy a yard of black velveteen type clothe to put the pieces on your are
shooting. It will absorb the "extra" light, and make everything on it look brighter.
>
> You might have noticed, I've got .8v peak coming out of the Receive
> LO. I've done some figuring and that looks like about 7 dbm to me.
Yes, very close to what you need if that is the level you are getting when
driving a 47 or 51 Ohm resistor for a dummy load before connecting the LO to the
mixer. Once it is connected to the mixer, you can't measure the power level
accurately anymore, as the mixer diodes severely clip the waveforms when they
are conducting at approximately 0.3 volts.
> Maybe a little high. What I'm doing is dropping the .8v peak down to
> rms, then estimating the dbm output using charts in NA5N's Data
> Book. Those charts are geared to 50 ohms. Am I far off?
Nope, right on the money. Don't worry if the level is a tad bit high or low, it
won't matter to the single balanced mixer ( the product detector) that you are
driving.
Am I
> thinking right?
Yes, you've got it.... ;-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi all,
Having wanted to build a 2/2n20 and 2/2n40 for a while at every rally
over the last couple of years I have picked up small batches of
crystals and I have a smallish collection of matched crystals in
numbers of 5 and 6 with centre frequencies from TV colour burst xtals
c3.6MHz to 24.?MHz and some rather large 6MHz 1" crystals, one good
set or 10 or so are at 4.0MHz and another I have is at 5MHz, I also
have a selection at 11.38? Mhz, no idea why I bought so many of
those! But those I have at 4.915MHz are probably not a close enough
match for use on 40m and the 11.38MHz I have enough I should be able
to find a set to match for 20m. Is there any major problem I should
be aware of if I shift the IF by c1MHz lower to 4MHz or go up 90kHz
to 5MHz on 40m and shift the IF up to 11.38?MHz for 20m?
I think the design should accomodate but I am not 100% as not really
experienced enough to know as I suspect I will have to tweak some
band pass filtering. And I hope that mixing products are not going to
be a problem.
I use an IW3HEV VNA/Antenna analyser that I homebrewed and I use it
often for approximate transmission measurements through circuits with
a pair of shielded leads. It is not laboritory accurate by any
stretch of the imagination but it definitely helps save some time
when a BPF or the filtering into or out of an impedance transforming
section has to be adjusted.
73
Dom
M1KTA
(HB9/M1KTA whilst working in Zurich)
|
3579|3579|2007-02-27 14:13:49|dombaines|oh one thing I cannot seem to find...|The audio transformer....
Cannot seem to find one.
Has anyone got a mouser or digikey part no?
Or better yet has anyone got 1 or 2 spares?
73
Dom
M1KTA
|
3580|3579|2007-02-27 14:23:11|k9qb|Re: oh one thing I cannot seem to find...|Believe it or not, RadioShack stocks em!!
They will usually have a few hanging around...And, it's cheap too with
no shipping...unless you're ordering other parts, then the shipping's
no big thing.
Stop by and get their 1k to 8ohm transformer...it's 3 or 4 bucks...
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "dombaines" wrote:
>
> The audio transformer....
>
> Cannot seem to find one.
>
> Has anyone got a mouser or digikey part no?
>
> Or better yet has anyone got 1 or 2 spares?
>
> 73
>
> Dom
> M1KTA
>
Dom, M1KTA wrote:
> Hi all,
Hi Dom,
>
> Having wanted to build a 2/2n20 and 2/2n40 for a while at every rally
> over the last couple of years I have picked up small batches of
> crystals and I have a smallish collection of matched crystals in
> numbers of 5 and 6 with centre frequencies from TV colour burst xtals
> c3.6MHz to 24.?MHz and some rather large 6MHz 1" crystals, one good
> set or 10 or so are at 4.0MHz and another I have is at 5MHz, I also
> have a selection at 11.38? Mhz, no idea why I bought so many of
> those! But those I have at 4.915MHz are probably not a close enough
> match for use on 40m and the 11.38MHz I have enough I should be able
> to find a set to match for 20m. Is there any major problem I should
> be aware of if I shift the IF by c1MHz lower to 4MHz or go up 90kHz
> to 5MHz on 40m and shift the IF up to 11.38?MHz for 20m?
I think the 5 MHz would be fine unless you have something like WWV operating on
5 MHz that could potentially get into the IF at that frequency. If that is a
concern, then use the 4 MHz crystals. Either will work fine for the 40 meter
rig IF, with a corresponding change to the VFO range. The 5 MHz obviously will
require less tweaking of the VFO, just push it up in frequency a tad.
As for 20 meters, the 11.38 MHz also appear to be fine for the IF. I did a quick
check and no harmonics from the VFO landing in the IF, so that's a good start. I
haven't run all of the possibilities using W7ZOI's "Spur Tune Program" When I
have a moment, I'll do that and see what it shows.
>
> I think the design should accomodate but I am not 100% as not really
> experienced enough to know as I suspect I will have to tweak some
> band pass filtering.
Well the tweaks will come on the coupling capacitors for the crystal filters.
Without knowing the charactistics of the crystals, you'll just have to do it
empirically i.e., the cut and try method.
And I hope that mixing products are not going to
> be a problem.
Maybe we can let Wes's program figure that out.
>
> I use an IW3HEV VNA/Antenna analyser that I homebrewed and I use it
> often for approximate transmission measurements through circuits with
> a pair of shielded leads. It is not laboritory accurate by any
> stretch of the imagination but it definitely helps save some time
> when a BPF or the filtering into or out of an impedance transforming
> section has to be adjusted.
It should be very helpful converging on the right coupling capacitor values for
the various crystal filters and seeing what those filters look like.
73 and good luck with building your rigs,
Jim, K8IQY
dombaines wrote:
> The audio transformer....
>
> Cannot seem to find one.
>
> Has anyone got a mouser or digikey part no?
Mouser part number 42TM003. A similar part, maybe 1K to 8 Ohms used to be
available from Radio Shack here in the USA. It isn't all that critical, so any
1-1.2K to 8 Ohm audio transformer should work just fine.
73,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Jim,
I'll let you know how it goes.
Back in UK next w/e so will collect some PCB and manhatten pads,
parts I have so far and start homebrewing in the evenings after work
(Switzerland) the week after.
73
Dom
M1KTA and HB9/M1KTA
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
>
> Dom, M1KTA wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
>
> Hi Dom,
>
> >
> > Having wanted to build a 2/2n20 and 2/2n40 for a while at every
rally
> > over the last couple of years I have picked up small batches of
> > crystals and I have a smallish collection of matched crystals in
> > numbers of 5 and 6 with centre frequencies from TV colour burst
xtals
> > c3.6MHz to 24.?MHz and some rather large 6MHz 1" crystals, one
good
> > set or 10 or so are at 4.0MHz and another I have is at 5MHz, I
also
> > have a selection at 11.38? Mhz, no idea why I bought so many of
> > those! But those I have at 4.915MHz are probably not a close
enough
> > match for use on 40m and the 11.38MHz I have enough I should be
able
> > to find a set to match for 20m. Is there any major problem I
should
> > be aware of if I shift the IF by c1MHz lower to 4MHz or go up
90kHz
> > to 5MHz on 40m and shift the IF up to 11.38?MHz for 20m?
>
> I think the 5 MHz would be fine unless you have something like WWV
operating on
> 5 MHz that could potentially get into the IF at that frequency. If
that is a
> concern, then use the 4 MHz crystals. Either will work fine for
the 40 meter
> rig IF, with a corresponding change to the VFO range. The 5 MHz
obviously will
> require less tweaking of the VFO, just push it up in frequency a
tad.
>
> As for 20 meters, the 11.38 MHz also appear to be fine for the IF.
I did a quick
> check and no harmonics from the VFO landing in the IF, so that's a
good start. I
> haven't run all of the possibilities using W7ZOI's "Spur Tune
Program" When I
> have a moment, I'll do that and see what it shows.
> >
> > I think the design should accomodate but I am not 100% as not
really
> > experienced enough to know as I suspect I will have to tweak some
> > band pass filtering.
>
> Well the tweaks will come on the coupling capacitors for the
crystal filters.
> Without knowing the charactistics of the crystals, you'll just have
to do it
> empirically i.e., the cut and try method.
>
> And I hope that mixing products are not going to
> > be a problem.
>
> Maybe we can let Wes's program figure that out.
>
> >
> > I use an IW3HEV VNA/Antenna analyser that I homebrewed and I use
it
> > often for approximate transmission measurements through circuits
with
> > a pair of shielded leads. It is not laboritory accurate by any
> > stretch of the imagination but it definitely helps save some time
> > when a BPF or the filtering into or out of an impedance
transforming
> > section has to be adjusted.
>
> It should be very helpful converging on the right coupling
capacitor values for
> the various crystal filters and seeing what those filters look like.
>
> 73 and good luck with building your rigs,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
If I cannot find something new looks like I'll have to dig through
some junk radios to salvage something. I was sent an email suggesting
one alternative that can be sourced locally it is a 1.2K to 3.2 ohm
transformer it is an LT700 alternative so as this seems to be non
critical and is an AF step down impedance transformer then perhaps
should do it?
73
Dom
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
>
> dombaines wrote:
> > The audio transformer....
> >
> > Cannot seem to find one.
> >
> > Has anyone got a mouser or digikey part no?
>
> Mouser part number 42TM003. A similar part, maybe 1K to 8 Ohms
used to be
> available from Radio Shack here in the USA. It isn't all that
critical, so any
> 1-1.2K to 8 Ohm audio transformer should work just fine.
>
> 73,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
dombaines wrote:
> If I cannot find something new looks like I'll have to dig through
> some junk radios to salvage something. I was sent an email suggesting
> one alternative that can be sourced locally it is a 1.2K to 3.2 ohm
> transformer it is an LT700 alternative so as this seems to be non
> critical and is an AF step down impedance transformer then perhaps
> should do it?
>
> 73
>
> Dom
Dom,
The 1.2K to 3.2 Ohm should do just fine, especially if you are driving a 3-4 Ohm
speaker. Phones will work fine too.
73,
Jim, K8IQY
All
Could a 80 meter flavor of the 2N220 be conceived and built? If so then
with a few converters we could have a very nice multiband receiver and
exciter perhaps......What IF freq would be the best if we were to move this
to 80M or could we just the 2n220 as is with a set of converters ahead of
it?
Steve NU0P
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Jim Kortge
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 6:30 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: oh one thing I cannot seem to find...
dombaines wrote:
> If I cannot find something new looks like I'll have to dig through
> some junk radios to salvage something. I was sent an email suggesting
> one alternative that can be sourced locally it is a 1.2K to 3.2 ohm
> transformer it is an LT700 alternative so as this seems to be non
> critical and is an AF step down impedance transformer then perhaps
> should do it?
>
> 73
>
> Dom
Dom,
The 1.2K to 3.2 Ohm should do just fine, especially if you are driving a 3-4
Ohm
speaker. Phones will work fine too.
73,
Jim, K8IQY
Yahoo! Groups Links
steve wrote:
> All
>
> Could a 80 meter flavor of the 2N220 be conceived and built?
Certainly. Without doing all of the math, I'm guessing a nominal 6 MHz IF with
the approximate 2.5 MHz VFO would be quite workable. I'd probably opt for the IF
at 5.99 MHz, just to stay away from those even MHz frequencies, although, I
don't know if anything that is a high powered emitter is operating on 6 MHz. If
not, that would be perfectly fine.
If so then
> with a few converters we could have a very nice multiband receiver and
> exciter perhaps......What IF freq would be the best if we were to move this
> to 80M or could we just the 2n220 as is with a set of converters ahead of
> it?
Well the 2N2/40 or /40+ can be run on 17 Meters with my 4017 Transverter
package. Other frequency designs could be built for the various rigs, but
starting with an 80 meter rigs might offer the most flexibility. Some thinking
about all of the possibilities is in order to decide the most flexible approach.
Using a 6 MHz IF on 80 meters would make the rig tune backwards, VFO goes lower
for a higher 80 meter frequency, but putting the VFO higher than the operating
frequency would make the VFO kinda high and probably less stable.
Just my quickie thoughs to your inquiry Steve.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I
> don't know if anything that is a high powered
> emitter is operating on 6 MHz.
There sure is, Radio Habana, Cuba burns holes through
the ether on 6.000 MHz. They are strong enough to mix
with a local AMBC station here (through some nearby
non-linear element) to output elsewere. They are
certainly powerful on their primary frequency.
Hi Jim!
Howard K2UD
____________________________________________________________________________________
Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbeta/features_spam.htmlHow about an 8.8 MHz IF with a 5.2 - 5.3 MHz VFO ?
8.8 + 5.2 = 14.0
8.8 + 5.3 = 14.1
8.8 - 5.3 = 3.5
8.8 - 5.2 = 3.6
80M + 20M (80M tunes backwards and receives LSB instead of USB, not a big
deal on CW, but a plus for SSB.)
I can't find my old handbook stash, but I think there was a design for a QRP
SSB transceiver in about the 1978 or 79 Handbook. Might be a fun exercise
to update.
Darrel... K0AWB
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Jim Kortge
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2007 12:56 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Can a 80 Meter Flavor be built!!
steve wrote:
> All
>
> Could a 80 meter flavor of the 2N220 be conceived and built?
Certainly. Without doing all of the math, I'm guessing a nominal 6 MHz IF
with
the approximate 2.5 MHz VFO would be quite workable. I'd probably opt for
the IF
at 5.99 MHz, just to stay away from those even MHz frequencies, although,
I
don't know if anything that is a high powered emitter is operating on 6
MHz. If
not, that would be perfectly fine.
If so then
> with a few converters we could have a very nice multiband receiver and
> exciter perhaps......What IF freq would be the best if we were to move
this
> to 80M or could we just the 2n220 as is with a set of converters ahead
of
> it?
Well the 2N2/40 or /40+ can be run on 17 Meters with my 4017 Transverter
package. Other frequency designs could be built for the various rigs, but
starting with an 80 meter rigs might offer the most flexibility. Some
thinking
about all of the possibilities is in order to decide the most flexible
approach.
Using a 6 MHz IF on 80 meters would make the rig tune backwards, VFO goes
lower
for a higher 80 meter frequency, but putting the VFO higher than the
operating
frequency would make the VFO kinda high and probably less stable.
Just my quickie thoughs to your inquiry Steve.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Howard Kraus wrote:
> I
>
>>don't know if anything that is a high powered
>>emitter is operating on 6 MHz.
>
>
> There sure is, Radio Habana, Cuba burns holes through
> the ether on 6.000 MHz. They are strong enough to mix
> with a local AMBC station here (through some nearby
> non-linear element) to output elsewere. They are
> certainly powerful on their primary frequency.
>
> Hi Jim!
>
> Howard K2UD
Hi Howard,
Well, there you go! If it isn't WWV, then RHC is a good alternate I guess to
make one not want to put the IF on 6.000 MHz. 5.99+ seems a lot better choice
with that piece of info. :-)
Thanks for the reply Howard. Still up to your ears in snow?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hmmm, lots and lots of good ideas here...The objective is to make a tunable
IF that would be preceded by band converters ala the Progressive Receiver,
perhaps better known as the W7ZOI/K5IRK receiver that has been in the
Handbook in years past. So, I was just thinking of using 80 m as the
tunable IF but perhaps there are better choices for a tunable IF. I have
seen them at 1.8M as well if I recall correctly. If one has a clean sheet
of paper what would be the best choice for a tunable IF anyway? I don't
really like backwards tuning, I always feel like there is something not
right with the radio...I would want all the bands to tune in the same
direction.
Didn't some one have a piece of software that would calculate all the
variables including potential birdies too???
Steve NU0P
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Darrel Swenson
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2007 5:36 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [2n2-40] Can a 80 Meter Flavor be built!!
How about an 8.8 MHz IF with a 5.2 - 5.3 MHz VFO ?
8.8 + 5.2 = 14.0
8.8 + 5.3 = 14.1
8.8 - 5.3 = 3.5
8.8 - 5.2 = 3.6
80M + 20M (80M tunes backwards and receives LSB instead of USB, not a big
deal on CW, but a plus for SSB.)
I can't find my old handbook stash, but I think there was a design for a QRP
SSB transceiver in about the 1978 or 79 Handbook. Might be a fun exercise
to update.
Darrel... K0AWB
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Jim Kortge
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2007 12:56 PM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Can a 80 Meter Flavor be built!!
steve wrote:
> All
>
> Could a 80 meter flavor of the 2N220 be conceived and built?
Certainly. Without doing all of the math, I'm guessing a nominal 6 MHz IF
with
the approximate 2.5 MHz VFO would be quite workable. I'd probably opt for
the IF
at 5.99 MHz, just to stay away from those even MHz frequencies, although,
I
don't know if anything that is a high powered emitter is operating on 6
MHz. If
not, that would be perfectly fine.
If so then
> with a few converters we could have a very nice multiband receiver and
> exciter perhaps......What IF freq would be the best if we were to move
this
> to 80M or could we just the 2n220 as is with a set of converters ahead
of
> it?
Well the 2N2/40 or /40+ can be run on 17 Meters with my 4017 Transverter
package. Other frequency designs could be built for the various rigs, but
starting with an 80 meter rigs might offer the most flexibility. Some
thinking
about all of the possibilities is in order to decide the most flexible
approach.
Using a 6 MHz IF on 80 meters would make the rig tune backwards, VFO goes
lower
for a higher 80 meter frequency, but putting the VFO higher than the
operating
frequency would make the VFO kinda high and probably less stable.
Just my quickie thoughs to your inquiry Steve.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yahoo! Groups Links
No, we really weren't that bad off. Northern NY got
the bulk of the snow for once.
The day that the "October Surprise" struck is the same
day I closed my pool for the season. A mere 3-4 hours
after fastening the cover down, all the fun started.
It made the Carribean cruise all that much more
enjoyable a few weeks later!
CU es 72
Howard K2UD
--- Jim Kortge <
jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
>
>
> Howard Kraus wrote:
> > I
> >
> >>don't know if anything that is a high powered
> >>emitter is operating on 6 MHz.
> >
> >
> > There sure is, Radio Habana, Cuba burns holes
> through
> > the ether on 6.000 MHz. They are strong enough to
> mix
> > with a local AMBC station here (through some
> nearby
> > non-linear element) to output elsewere. They are
> > certainly powerful on their primary frequency.
> >
> > Hi Jim!
> >
> > Howard K2UD
>
> Hi Howard,
>
> Well, there you go! If it isn't WWV, then RHC is a
> good alternate I guess to
> make one not want to put the IF on 6.000 MHz. 5.99+
> seems a lot better choice
> with that piece of info. :-)
>
> Thanks for the reply Howard. Still up to your ears
> in snow?
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEALAre the crystals we should be buying for the filters in the 2N series
parallel or series resonant types? Will either work or is one type
preferred over the. And why?
Steve/NU0P
|
3594|3593|2007-03-17 14:12:46|Jim Kortge|Re: Crystals for Filters|Steve White wrote:
> Are the crystals we should be buying for the filters in the 2N series
> parallel or series resonant types?
All that I have used are "series" types, but either will work just fine. The
difference between a "series" type crystal and one specified to operate with a
"load capacitor" is the that "series" crystals have the case marked with the
nominal true series resonant frequency. Those specified with the "load
capacitor", something on the order of 18, 20, or 22 pF being common values,
achieve true series resonance with the specified load capacitance effectively in
series with the crystal. What that means is that the actual series resonant
frequency of the crystal is below the frequency marked on the case and needs the
series capacitor to put it on frequency.
Will either work or is one type
> preferred over the.
Either will work and neither is preferred electrically. I use "series" type
crystals because I know what is marked on the case is the true series resonant
frequency. That said, if one were to use crystals designed to work with a load
capacitance, its series resonance will be below the case marked frequency for
any capacitance load greater than that specified. Not to worry, if all of the
crystals used in a rig are of the same type, the resulting crystal filter will
be slightly lower in frequency than one built using "series" crystals. However,
as long as the LO crystals are of the same type, the LOs will also be slightly
lower in frequency. It therefore works and nobody but the builder is aware that
a different type of crystal was used unless they poke around in the rig with a
spectrum analyzer and see what is really going on.
And why?
See above..... :-)
Great question Steve!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Well looking around I found some 2.45 Mhz crystals at a very good
price, wonder what the groups thoughts would be to using that freq
for an IF for an 80 meter flavor of the 2n220/2N280. This would let
the VFO run at 1.05 Mhz. Too many possible harmonics from the vfo I
bet.. The converters should easy engouh to build for the other
bands then. Is this IF too close to the Rx freq and VFO freq to be
good?
steve NU0P
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
>
> steve wrote:
> > All
> >
> > Could a 80 meter flavor of the 2N220 be conceived and built?
>
> Certainly. Without doing all of the math, I'm guessing a nominal 6
MHz IF with
> the approximate 2.5 MHz VFO would be quite workable. I'd probably
opt for the IF
> at 5.99 MHz, just to stay away from those even MHz frequencies,
although, I
> don't know if anything that is a high powered emitter is operating
on 6 MHz. If
> not, that would be perfectly fine.
>
> If so then
> > with a few converters we could have a very nice multiband
receiver and
> > exciter perhaps......What IF freq would be the best if we were to
move this
> > to 80M or could we just the 2n220 as is with a set of converters
ahead of
> > it?
>
> Well the 2N2/40 or /40+ can be run on 17 Meters with my 4017
Transverter
> package. Other frequency designs could be built for the various
rigs, but
> starting with an 80 meter rigs might offer the most flexibility.
Some thinking
> about all of the possibilities is in order to decide the most
flexible approach.
>
> Using a 6 MHz IF on 80 meters would make the rig tune backwards,
VFO goes lower
> for a higher 80 meter frequency, but putting the VFO higher than
the operating
> frequency would make the VFO kinda high and probably less stable.
>
> Just my quickie thoughs to your inquiry Steve.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Jim and group,
Just returned from an enjoyable trip "back home" to Oklahoma.
Spent some time at the "Green Country Hamfest", with Brad WA5PSA,in
Claremore and spent a lot of time at his home.
With the xyl's catching up on their scrap-booking, we were free to
build and play radio to our hearts' content.
Brad and I melted plenty of solder and traded air time on each
other's qrp rigs.
I was able to complete the VFO circuit, (minus the variable controls)
and was tickled to hear carrier on 14.028 Mhz. That's where it was
resting without the tuning or RIT pots installed.
As usual, no surprises...What a sweet thing so far.
So, the Rx is, basically, done now.
Brad had a few issues, with his, that we resolved...he's not quite as
far along, but, is nippin' at my heels!
All this by the accompaniment of the newly "theme-music'd"
SolderSmoke release.
I missed Marshall, MI and Toledo,OH hamfests(I heard were very good),
but, it was worth it.
BTW, Brad found and bought a Fall 1966 Callbook...That was the first
one out after we got our novice licenses...There we were, with the 8
or 9 other guys that all got licensed together....
It was fun looking at those names and trying to remember the
guys...Brad did much better than me.
On to the TX and controls!!!
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3597|3399|2007-03-21 19:18:22|pds22553|2N2 questions|I have been reading posts for a while looking at files and such and
thinking about trying to build a 2N2. I have built a few kits but this
seems like a step to the unknown to me. Is a book available on the
build? Could a guy with a few kits under his belt even think he could
build such a rig? Just some thoughts from a lurker. de Paul N0NBD
|
3598|3399|2007-03-21 22:22:20|k9qb|Re: 2N2 questions|Hi Larry,
You're correct to wonder if the 2N2_40 and the other rigs based on
it would make the right project for you to build.
If you're accustomed to stuffing a few parts in a board and melting
a little solder, then, these are not like that.
However, there is plenty of guidance available and there is an
excellent board layout provided by Larry, K3PEG.
Jim's always very helpful....After all, they are his designs.
Another thing, you have to scrounge the parts...but, the parts are
readily available, and, there's plenty of guidance to accomplish
that too.
Depending on what you've built...like if you've built the Norcal
2030 or the Small Wonders, you should have the requisite skills for
the construction part.
As for the circuits working, I haven't experienced anything I'd call
surprising...after having basically completed the receiver, I'm
surprised at how easy everything has been to this point.
Looking ahead, I'd say the transmitter is a fraction of the
challenge of the receiver.
IMO, the actual building process is fairly straightforward, but,
I've got several years in electronics experience, and, what's easy
for me may not be so easy for others.
I guess you have to decide for yourself your competence level for an
advanced project and decide how much patience you have...
It sounds as if you like to build...maybe you should give it a whirl
and test your limits.
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "pds22553" wrote:
>
> I have been reading posts for a while looking at files and such
and
> thinking about trying to build a 2N2. I have built a few kits but
this
> seems like a step to the unknown to me. Is a book available on the
> build? Could a guy with a few kits under his belt even think he
could
> build such a rig? Just some thoughts from a lurker. de Paul N0NBD
>
k9qb wrote:
> Hi Larry,
>
> You're correct to wonder if the 2N2_40 and the other rigs based on
> it would make the right project for you to build.
>
> If you're accustomed to stuffing a few parts in a board and melting
> a little solder, then, these are not like that.
>
> However, there is plenty of guidance available and there is an
> excellent board layout provided by Larry, K3PEG.
> Jim's always very helpful....After all, they are his designs.
>
> Another thing, you have to scrounge the parts...but, the parts are
> readily available, and, there's plenty of guidance to accomplish
> that too.
>
> Depending on what you've built...like if you've built the Norcal
> 2030 or the Small Wonders, you should have the requisite skills for
> the construction part.
>
> As for the circuits working, I haven't experienced anything I'd call
> surprising...after having basically completed the receiver, I'm
> surprised at how easy everything has been to this point.
> Looking ahead, I'd say the transmitter is a fraction of the
> challenge of the receiver.
>
> IMO, the actual building process is fairly straightforward, but,
> I've got several years in electronics experience, and, what's easy
> for me may not be so easy for others.
>
> I guess you have to decide for yourself your competence level for an
> advanced project and decide how much patience you have...
>
> It sounds as if you like to build...maybe you should give it a whirl
> and test your limits.
>
> Mike, WA5PSE
Mike,
Nice post and I appreciate the help in answering this question from someone who
is building a rig.
I kinda look at putting an "all homebrew" rig together as eating an elephant.
You have to go slowly and just keep plugging along. An hour a day will yield a
rig in relatively short order actually.
Kind regared all,
Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "pds22553" wrote:
>
>>I have been reading posts for a while looking at files and such
>
> and
>
>>thinking about trying to build a 2N2. I have built a few kits but
>
> this
>
>>seems like a step to the unknown to me. Is a book available on the
>>build? Could a guy with a few kits under his belt even think he
>
> could
>
>>build such a rig? Just some thoughts from a lurker. de Paul N0NBD
>>
Steve White wrote:
> Well looking around I found some 2.45 Mhz crystals at a very good
> price, wonder what the groups thoughts would be to using that freq
> for an IF for an 80 meter flavor of the 2n220/2N280. This would let
> the VFO run at 1.05 Mhz. Too many possible harmonics from the vfo I
> bet..
Without running the numbers, I'd say there is a fair chance that one of them
will end up in the passband.
Why not put the VFO up around 6 MHz and mix down to 2.45 MHz. It will be a
little tougher to get it stable up there, but not too bad I'd guess. Then you
won't have any birdie worries as all of them will be way high. The only ones
that might be a problem would occur on 18 MHz, and 24 MHz, but those too may be
OK depending on where the VFO has to tune.
Run the numbers on that mixing scheme and see what you get.
The converters should easy engouh to build for the other
> bands then. Is this IF too close to the Rx freq and VFO freq to be
> good?
Not if you use 6 MHz for the VFO. I'm guessing it would be a good setup.
>
> steve NU0P
72,
Jim, K8IQY
k9qb wrote:
> Jim and group,
>
> Just returned from an enjoyable trip "back home" to Oklahoma.
>
> Spent some time at the "Green Country Hamfest", with Brad WA5PSA,in
> Claremore and spent a lot of time at his home.
>
> With the xyl's catching up on their scrap-booking, we were free to
> build and play radio to our hearts' content.
>
> Brad and I melted plenty of solder and traded air time on each
> other's qrp rigs.
>
> I was able to complete the VFO circuit, (minus the variable controls)
> and was tickled to hear carrier on 14.028 Mhz. That's where it was
> resting without the tuning or RIT pots installed.
> As usual, no surprises...What a sweet thing so far.
>
> So, the Rx is, basically, done now.
>
> Brad had a few issues, with his, that we resolved...he's not quite as
> far along, but, is nippin' at my heels!
>
> All this by the accompaniment of the newly "theme-music'd"
> SolderSmoke release.
>
> I missed Marshall, MI and Toledo,OH hamfests(I heard were very good),
> but, it was worth it.
>
> BTW, Brad found and bought a Fall 1966 Callbook...That was the first
> one out after we got our novice licenses...There we were, with the 8
> or 9 other guys that all got licensed together....
> It was fun looking at those names and trying to remember the
> guys...Brad did much better than me.
>
> On to the TX and controls!!!
>
> Mike, WA5PSE
Mike,
Thanks for the nice update. Sounds like your visit back to OK was great.
Keep up the work and posts to the group. I know I find them really interesting
and exciting. Makes me want to build something! But wait, I am building
something. Details at 5........
72,
Jim, K8IQY
That's the spirit!
Mike
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
>
> k9qb wrote:
> > Hi Larry,
> >
> > You're correct to wonder if the 2N2_40 and the other rigs based
on
> > it would make the right project for you to build.
> >
> > If you're accustomed to stuffing a few parts in a board and
melting
> > a little solder, then, these are not like that.
> >
> > However, there is plenty of guidance available and there is an
> > excellent board layout provided by Larry, K3PEG.
> > Jim's always very helpful....After all, they are his designs.
> >
> > Another thing, you have to scrounge the parts...but, the parts
are
> > readily available, and, there's plenty of guidance to accomplish
> > that too.
> >
> > Depending on what you've built...like if you've built the Norcal
> > 2030 or the Small Wonders, you should have the requisite skills
for
> > the construction part.
> >
> > As for the circuits working, I haven't experienced anything I'd
call
> > surprising...after having basically completed the receiver, I'm
> > surprised at how easy everything has been to this point.
> > Looking ahead, I'd say the transmitter is a fraction of the
> > challenge of the receiver.
> >
> > IMO, the actual building process is fairly straightforward, but,
> > I've got several years in electronics experience, and, what's
easy
> > for me may not be so easy for others.
> >
> > I guess you have to decide for yourself your competence level
for an
> > advanced project and decide how much patience you have...
> >
> > It sounds as if you like to build...maybe you should give it a
whirl
> > and test your limits.
> >
> > Mike, WA5PSE
>
> Mike,
>
> Nice post and I appreciate the help in answering this question
from someone who
> is building a rig.
>
> I kinda look at putting an "all homebrew" rig together as eating
an elephant.
> You have to go slowly and just keep plugging along. An hour a day
will yield a
> rig in relatively short order actually.
>
> Kind regared all,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> >
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "pds22553" wrote:
> >
> >>I have been reading posts for a while looking at files and such
> >
> > and
> >
> >>thinking about trying to build a 2N2. I have built a few kits
but
> >
> > this
> >
> >>seems like a step to the unknown to me. Is a book available on
the
> >>build? Could a guy with a few kits under his belt even think he
> >
> > could
> >
> >>build such a rig? Just some thoughts from a lurker. de Paul N0NBD
> >>
>
Thanks for the replies. I have printed and studied K3PEG's color
layout and that is one reason I think I could bite off this much of
Jim's elephant.... I will keep lurking and reading. Does anyone know
if the 2N2 40 book printed by NA5N is still available? Thanks
de Paul N0NBD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "pds22553" wrote:
>
> I have been reading posts for a while looking at files and such and
> thinking about trying to build a 2N2. I have built a few kits but
this
> seems like a step to the unknown to me. Is a book available on the
> build? Could a guy with a few kits under his belt even think he could
> build such a rig? Just some thoughts from a lurker. de Paul N0NBD
>
Jim,
I just came across an article dating back to a 1980 QST artcle by
Roy Lewallen, W7EL.
The article was about his 40m transceiver which looks pretty good
for it's time actually.
Anyway, in it he mentions boiling the VFO toroid to anneal it and
help tame a drift issue.
It was mentioned on the SW group site as a way to stabilize the SW
series rigs.
Have you heard of this and does it offer any advantages for the 2N2
radios?
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3605|3399|2007-03-23 16:32:52|redbudpub|Re: 2N2 questions|Paul:
I'm Brad, WA5PSA. I introduce myself as the "English major" around
here. So, as you might tell, technoid is not my first language.
You're "one bite at a time" attitude is just what I'm taking. As
Mike said, he's way ahead of me on this build, and he's had to help me
through a couple of scrapes. But I think I'm gonna get this done.
Just to tell you what my experience is: this is my first non-kit
rig. I've stuffed a few circuit boards. I've built the Norcal 2030
(all SMT parts!). But, I got tired of just doing "solder practice."
The 2n2/XX series is a nice mid-way point between stuffing a circuit
board and building a rig up just from schematics. I think it's your
next logical step. Take it slow. I am learning as I go along, trying
to learn the theory of each circuit as I build it. Usually, I'll also
"build" the circuit in LTSpice (a free circuit simulator) and compare
voltage levels and signals with what I see in the real world on my
circuit board. Then I'll try to figure out WHY that signal is there
[that's the tough one].
So, as you see, I'm just poking along. I figure I've already got me
a couple 20M rigs to operate, so I'm not rushing to get through it.
The purpose of this build is to learn a little and to become
conversant with manhattan construction so I can use it in the future
when I start really 'sperimentin'."
Join us!
Brad
WA5PSA
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "pds22553" wrote:
>
> Thanks for the replies. I have printed and studied K3PEG's color
> layout and that is one reason I think I could bite off this much of
> Jim's elephant.... I will keep lurking and reading. Does anyone know
> if the 2N2 40 book printed by NA5N is still available? Thanks
> de Paul N0NBD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "pds22553" wrote:
> >
> > I have been reading posts for a while looking at files and such and
> > thinking about trying to build a 2N2. I have built a few kits but
> this
> > seems like a step to the unknown to me. Is a book available on the
> > build? Could a guy with a few kits under his belt even think he could
> > build such a rig? Just some thoughts from a lurker. de Paul N0NBD
> >
>
Thanks Brad, I like Jim's elephant one bite at a time idea. My next
setp is working up a list of parts to order. My part junk box is
nearly non-existant. I have built several kits rigs and now think
this should be the next step. Thanks again and will keep reading de
Paul N0NBD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "redbudpub" wrote:
>
> Paul:
>
> I'm Brad, WA5PSA. I introduce myself as the "English major"
around
> here. So, as you might tell, technoid is not my first language.
>
> You're "one bite at a time" attitude is just what I'm taking. As
> Mike said, he's way ahead of me on this build, and he's had to help
me
> through a couple of scrapes. But I think I'm gonna get this done.
>
> Just to tell you what my experience is: this is my first non-kit
> rig. I've stuffed a few circuit boards. I've built the Norcal 2030
> (all SMT parts!). But, I got tired of just doing "solder
practice."
> The 2n2/XX series is a nice mid-way point between stuffing a circuit
> board and building a rig up just from schematics. I think it's your
> next logical step. Take it slow. I am learning as I go along,
trying
> to learn the theory of each circuit as I build it. Usually, I'll
also
> "build" the circuit in LTSpice (a free circuit simulator) and
compare
> voltage levels and signals with what I see in the real world on my
> circuit board. Then I'll try to figure out WHY that signal is there
> [that's the tough one].
>
> So, as you see, I'm just poking along. I figure I've already got
me
> a couple 20M rigs to operate, so I'm not rushing to get through it.
> The purpose of this build is to learn a little and to become
> conversant with manhattan construction so I can use it in the future
> when I start really 'sperimentin'."
>
> Join us!
>
> Brad
> WA5PSA
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "pds22553" wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for the replies. I have printed and studied K3PEG's color
> > layout and that is one reason I think I could bite off this much
of
> > Jim's elephant.... I will keep lurking and reading. Does anyone
know
> > if the 2N2 40 book printed by NA5N is still available? Thanks
> > de Paul N0NBD
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "pds22553" wrote:
> > >
> > > I have been reading posts for a while looking at files and such
and
> > > thinking about trying to build a 2N2. I have built a few kits
but
> > this
> > > seems like a step to the unknown to me. Is a book available on
the
> > > build? Could a guy with a few kits under his belt even think he
could
> > > build such a rig? Just some thoughts from a lurker. de Paul
N0NBD
> > >
> >
>
k9qb wrote:
> Jim,
>
> I just came across an article dating back to a 1980 QST artcle by
> Roy Lewallen, W7EL.
>
> The article was about his 40m transceiver which looks pretty good
> for it's time actually.
>
> Anyway, in it he mentions boiling the VFO toroid to anneal it and
> help tame a drift issue.
>
> It was mentioned on the SW group site as a way to stabilize the SW
> series rigs.
>
> Have you heard of this and does it offer any advantages for the 2N2
> radios?
>
> Mike, WA5PSE
>
Mike,
Yes, I've heard about annealing wound toroids by boiling them in water, but have
never tried it. The physics makes sense though, it should relax the copper wire
winding so it doesn't want to change dimensions as much as heating occurs.
It certainly shouldn't hurt anything and will benefit the 2N2/XX radios and any
rig for that matter that uses a toroid wound VFO.
One would probably have to do a "before boil" and "after boil" testing sequence
to determine if there are really good benefits from boiling the wound toroid.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS...the boiling business may also be urban myth, but coming from Roy, it
probably isn't! :-)
pds22553 wrote:
> Thanks for the replies. I have printed and studied K3PEG's color
> layout and that is one reason I think I could bite off this much of
> Jim's elephant.... I will keep lurking and reading. Does anyone know
> if the 2N2 40 book printed by NA5N is still available?
I think Paul's book is still available, but if he is busy at the lab, you may
have to wait a while until he has time to ship one. Send him an email at:
NA5N@zianet.com and see what the status and pricing is for the book now.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Bill Kelsey N8ET sent an email out that said Kanga USA would have the Paul Harden databook back in stock in a couple of weeks.
It's a MUST HAVE book in my shack.
73 de KB9BVN
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2 questions
pds22553 wrote:
> Thanks for the replies. I have printed and studied K3PEG's color
> layout and that is one reason I think I could bite off this much of
> Jim's elephant.... I will keep lurking and reading. Does anyone know
> if the 2N2 40 book printed by NA5N is still available?
I think Paul's book is still available, but if he is busy at the lab, you may
have to wait a while until he has time to ship one. Send him an email at:
NA5N@zianet.com
and see what the status and pricing is for the book now.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.17/732 - Release Date: 3/24/2007 4:36 PM
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Is the name of the 2N2 book I am looking for the Data book? Thought I
better ask so I ask for the right book.
tnx Paul N0NBD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Brian - KB9BVN" wrote:
>
> Bill Kelsey N8ET sent an email out that said Kanga USA would have
the Paul Harden databook back in stock in a couple of weeks.
>
> It's a MUST HAVE book in my shack.
>
> 73 de KB9BVN
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Kortge
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 1:40 PM
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2 questions
>
>
>
>
> pds22553 wrote:
> > Thanks for the replies. I have printed and studied K3PEG's color
> > layout and that is one reason I think I could bite off this
much of
> > Jim's elephant.... I will keep lurking and reading. Does anyone
know
> > if the 2N2 40 book printed by NA5N is still available?
>
> I think Paul's book is still available, but if he is busy at the
lab, you may
> have to wait a while until he has time to ship one. Send him an
email at:
>
> NA5N@...
>
> and see what the status and pricing is for the book now.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.17/732 - Release Date:
3/24/2007 4:36 PM
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Paul,
No, the Data Book and the 2N2 book are two different publications by
NA5N.
FWIW, his 2N2 book is from the original 'build' of the 2N2-40 and to
the best of my knowledge, does not contain the updates to the latest
version. Still good reference material, however and is worth it just
for the illustrations.
73.......Steve Smith WB6TNL
>Is the name of the 2N2 book I am looking for the Data book? Thought
I
better ask so I ask for the right book.
tnx Paul N0NBD
http://www.AL7FS.us/ AL7FS Index for
The Electronic Data Book for Homebrewers and QRPers" First Edition
by Paul Harden
Unless Paul has added an Index to the databook you may wish to access the
AL7FS website for my Index for this great reference. Print it, cut it and
insert it into your databook. The index really helps.
73, Jim
Jim Larsen
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.AL7FS.us/ Brian - KB9BVN wrote:
> Bill Kelsey N8ET sent an email out that said Kanga USA would have the
> Paul Harden databook back in stock in a couple of weeks.
>
> It's a MUST HAVE book in my shack.
>
> 73 de KB9BVN
>
|
3613|3399|2007-03-25 19:31:56|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2 questions|pds22553 wrote:
> Is the name of the 2N2 book I am looking for the Data book? Thought I
> better ask so I ask for the right book.
> tnx Paul N0NBD
>
Paul,
No, the book you want is the reprint of the 2N2/40 Article that was in the
Winter 1999 Issue of QRPp. I think I've got the right year. I haven't thought
about all of the for a while and it is getting foggy. That happens when you get
past 60! :-) Paul will know what you want, it is the only reprint that I think
he ever did. It is spiral bound so that it sits flat of the workbench. The
2N2/40 is the original design but there is still a lot of good stuff in the
reprint for a new builder.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks for the info on the book. I googled around and read a
description of the data book and kinda understand that it would be a
fine book to reference. I sent an email off to NA5N this afternoon
inquiring cost and availability.
Thanks again for the info.de Paul N0NBD
|
3615|3399|2007-03-27 12:16:49|Greg|Re: 2N2 questions|Paul,
If you hear from NA5N, please post the ordering info for the
reprints to the group. I'm also waiting to hear from him.
TNX 73,
Greg, AI4EV
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> No, the book you want is the reprint of the 2N2/40 Article that was
in the
> Winter 1999 Issue of QRPp. I think I've got the right year. I
haven't thought
> about all of the for a while and it is getting foggy. That happens
when you get
> past 60! :-) Paul will know what you want, it is the only reprint
that I think
> he ever did. It is spiral bound so that it sits flat of the
workbench. The
> 2N2/40 is the original design but there is still a lot of good
stuff in the
> reprint for a new builder.
>
> 72,
> Jim, K8IQY
>
I will post if I hear anything from NA5N.
Thanks de Paul N0NBD
|
3617|3399|2007-03-27 15:00:29|brianars|Re: 2N2 questions|--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
>
>
>
> pds22553 wrote:
> > Is the name of the 2N2 book I am looking for the Data book? Thought I
> > better ask so I ask for the right book.
> > tnx Paul N0NBD
> >
> Paul,
>
> No, the book you want is the reprint of the 2N2/40 Article that was
in the
> Winter 1999 Issue of QRPp. I think I've got the right year. I
haven't thought
> about all of the for a while and it is getting foggy. That happens
when you get
> past 60! :-) Paul will know what you want, it is the only reprint
that I think
> he ever did. It is spiral bound so that it sits flat of the
workbench. The
> 2N2/40 is the original design but there is still a lot of good stuff
in the
> reprint for a new builder.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
I've dug around some, looking to purchase a back issue of that design
article but haven't found it. Is it still being sold?
For that matter, how does one get back issues of QRPp? These seem
harder to find that other collectibles! :-)
Brian - N1FIYAll
In the 20db audio preamps that are in the 2n240+, the 2N230 etc there
is a .02 uf capacitor (C45 in 2N240+) between the collector and the
base of the audio pre-amp transistor. What function does this
capacitor provide? I was not getting any gain out of my preamp until I
removed this cap and then I had lots of gain all of a sudden. I
checked the cap and it was good on the test set and had the correct
value too. Can you enlighten me on it's purpose.
Steve NU0P
|
3619|3618|2007-03-28 23:36:18|Steve White|2N240+ Receiver Audio Preamp Question|All
In the 20db audio preamps that are in the 2n240+, the 2N230 etc there
is a .02 uf capacitor (C45 in 2N240+) between the collector and the
base of the audio pre-amp transistor. What function does this
capacitor provide? I was not getting any gain out of my preamp until I
removed this cap and then I had lots of gain all of a sudden. I
checked the cap and it was good on the test set and had the correct
value too. Can you enlighten me on it's purpose.
Steve NU0P
|
3620|3618|2007-03-28 23:42:47|Steve White|2N240+ Receiver Audio Preamp Question|All
In the 20db audio preamps that are in the 2n240+, the 2N230 etc there
is a .02 uf capacitor (C45 in 2N240+) between the collector and the
base of the audio pre-amp transistor. What function does this
capacitor provide? I was not getting any gain out of my preamp until I
removed this cap and then I had lots of gain all of a sudden. I
checked the cap and it was good on the test set and had the correct
value too. Can you enlighten me on it's purpose.
Steve NU0P
|
3621|3618|2007-03-28 23:45:55|Steve White|2N240+ Receiver Audio Preamp Question|All
In the 20db audio preamps that are in the 2n240+, the 2N230 etc there
is a .02 uf capacitor (C45 in 2N240+) between the collector and the
base of the audio pre-amp transistor. What function does this
capacitor provide? I was not getting any gain out of my preamp until I
removed this cap and then I had lots of gain all of a sudden. I
checked the cap and it was good on the test set and had the correct
value too. Can you enlighten me on it's purpose.
Steve NU0P
|
3622|3618|2007-03-29 00:12:22|Steve White|2N240+ Receiver Audio Preamp Question|All
In the 20db audio preamps that are in the 2n240+, the 2N230 etc there
is a .02 uf capacitor (C45 in 2N240+) between the collector and the
base of the audio pre-amp transistor. What function does this
capacitor provide? I was not getting any gain out of my preamp until I
removed this cap and then I had lots of gain all of a sudden. I
checked the cap and it was good on the test set and had the correct
value too. Can you enlighten me on it's purpose.
Steve NU0P
|
3623|3618|2007-03-29 00:35:02|Steve White|2N240+ Receiver Audio Preamp Question|All
In the 20db audio preamps that are in the 2n240+, the 2N230 etc there
is a .02 uf capacitor (C45 in 2N240+) between the collector and the
base of the audio pre-amp transistor. What function does this
capacitor provide? I was not getting any gain out of my preamp until I
removed this cap and then I had lots of gain all of a sudden. I
checked the cap and it was good on the test set and had the correct
value too. Can you enlighten me on it's purpose.
Steve NU0P
|
3624|3618|2007-03-29 03:29:14|Steve White|2N240+ Receiver Audio Preamp Question|All
In the 20db audio preamps that are in the 2n240+, the 2N230 etc there
is a .02 uf capacitor (C45 in 2N240+) between the collector and the
base of the audio pre-amp transistor. What function does this
capacitor provide? I was not getting any gain out of my preamp until I
removed this cap and then I had lots of gain all of a sudden. I
checked the cap and it was good on the test set and had the correct
value too. Can you enlighten me on it's purpose.
Steve NU0P
|
3625|3618|2007-03-29 09:20:35|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N240+ Receiver Audio Preamp Question|Steve White wrote:
> All
>
> In the 20db audio preamps that are in the 2n240+, the 2N230 etc there
> is a .02 uf capacitor (C45 in 2N240+) between the collector and the
> base of the audio pre-amp transistor. What function does this
> capacitor provide?
It rolls off the higher frequency audio components so that the amplifier has a
peaked response at about 700 Hz. It's helped by the sizing of the input
capacitor and emitter capacitor. Both control the lower frequency components.
I was not getting any gain out of my preamp until I
> removed this cap and then I had lots of gain all of a sudden. I
> checked the cap and it was good on the test set and had the correct
> value too. Can you enlighten me on it's purpose.
See above.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS, I'll dig around and see if I still have the SPICE model for that stage which
will show its frequency response.
brianars wrote:
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>pds22553 wrote:
>>
>>>Is the name of the 2N2 book I am looking for the Data book? Thought I
>>>better ask so I ask for the right book.
>>>tnx Paul N0NBD
>>>
>>
>>Paul,
>>
>>No, the book you want is the reprint of the 2N2/40 Article that was
>
> in the
>
>>Winter 1999 Issue of QRPp. I think I've got the right year. I
>
> haven't thought
>
>>about all of the for a while and it is getting foggy. That happens
>
> when you get
>
>>past 60! :-) Paul will know what you want, it is the only reprint
>
> that I think
>
>>he ever did. It is spiral bound so that it sits flat of the
>
> workbench. The
>
>>2N2/40 is the original design but there is still a lot of good stuff
>
> in the
>
>>reprint for a new builder.
>>
>>72,
>>
>>Jim, K8IQY
>>
>
>
>
> I've dug around some, looking to purchase a back issue of that design
> article but haven't found it. Is it still being sold?
As far as I know it is. Paul, NA5N is the real expert as he is the printer! :-)
>
> For that matter, how does one get back issues of QRPp?
Find someone who has a set and offer to buy them. Someone just a few days ago on
QRP-L was offering a full set (I think) of QRPp. When those were being printer,
Doug, KI6DS was the editor/publisher and Paul, NA5N was the printer.
These seem
> harder to find that other collectibles! :-)
Yes.....I certainly would not let my incomplete set go until they bury me.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
For those looking for Paul Harden, FYI.
Jay,
If you could pass this on to the 2N2222 reflector, I would appreciate
it.
As you probably saw on the news, a fairly terrific storm blew through
NM
monday that caused several damaging tornados in Clovis, NM. Well, I
live on
the foothills of a mountain, so no tornados here. But, we did get
hit with
80+ mph winds with rain and hail. The wind ripped the ventillation
turbins
off the roof of the print shop building, allowing the rain to get
in. I
have gobs of water damage throughout the print shop as a result,
including
most of the 2N2/40, Elmer 101 and Data Books stored in the shop. One
of my
verticals and the G5RV also came down. Somehow, Jan's rusty old
Butternut
survived!
To meet an important deadline at the VLA, we're working until 7-8pm,
and not
getting home until well after dark. I will start cleaning up the
mess this
weekend, and survey how many of the books are salvageable enough to
be used.
On those that are water damaged but without pages stuck together
(that is,
still readable), I'll make those available strictly for postage.
I'll let
you know what I find in a couple of days.
I apologize if anyone feels I was ignoring them. It was just last
night
that I finally realized the extent of the damage.
72, Paul NA5N
|
3628|3618|2007-04-05 09:05:49|steve|Re: 2N240+ Receiver Audio Preamp Question|Jim
Your explanation along with Mikes help got me going in the right direction
now. I had changed the value of the .22uf coupling cap to 1uf and that
change caused the problem. I didn't realize that the coupling cap plus the
.02 cap were setting the cutoff freq. I reduced the value of the .02 a lot
and now things are back to normal.
Thanks so much for your help.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Jim Kortge
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 7:19 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2N240+ Receiver Audio Preamp Question
Steve White wrote:
> All
>
> In the 20db audio preamps that are in the 2n240+, the 2N230 etc there
> is a .02 uf capacitor (C45 in 2N240+) between the collector and the
> base of the audio pre-amp transistor. What function does this
> capacitor provide?
It rolls off the higher frequency audio components so that the amplifier has
a
peaked response at about 700 Hz. It's helped by the sizing of the input
capacitor and emitter capacitor. Both control the lower frequency
components.
I was not getting any gain out of my preamp until I
> removed this cap and then I had lots of gain all of a sudden. I
> checked the cap and it was good on the test set and had the correct
> value too. Can you enlighten me on it's purpose.
See above.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS, I'll dig around and see if I still have the SPICE model for that stage
which
will show its frequency response.
Yahoo! Groups Links
This has to be the ACME of silly questions but... in light of NA5N's
storm damage and having not heard any further information here goes the
silly question. Does anyone on the list have an extra book that is just
taking up space? or you bought two like I might have. Just in case one
gets lost.hi hi. Or if nothing else would someone loan me their book
for a few days to read and see what I think I want to build?
Thanks
Paul Smith N0NBD
|
3630|3629|2007-04-10 17:03:46|brianars|Re: 2N2 book quest|I think I was reading your mind, Paul. As I was just catching up on
recent postings, I thought of this...
So, once Paul is all set, if there are any other 'extra' sets that
someone might consider selling, please let me know off list.
Thanks!
Brian - N1FIY
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "pds22553" wrote:
>
> This has to be the ACME of silly questions but... in light of NA5N's
> storm damage and having not heard any further information here goes the
> silly question. Does anyone on the list have an extra book that is just
> taking up space? or you bought two like I might have. Just in case one
> gets lost.hi hi. Or if nothing else would someone loan me their book
> for a few days to read and see what I think I want to build?
> Thanks
> Paul Smith N0NBD
>
Can somebody tell me about a good resource for those dandy,
expandable, finned heat sinks that I see used on the metal can
2N2222's.
I'm closing in on finishing my 2N2_20 and don't want to try and
fashion something that would look any worse than what I've done
already and maybe not work very well either.
I would buy someone's spares if any of you have any to spare.
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3633|3632|2007-04-18 18:22:07|Howard Kraus|Re: Heat sinks for 2N2222|Mouser has them, 532-322505B00. They are small enough
to mount them on the finals (and the driver) at the
spacing I've seen on the 40 and the 20. I have one,
if you'd like it. $1.00 and I'll mail it to you.
They sell for just a bit over $2.00 at Mouser.
72 es GL
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- k9qb <
k9qb@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Can somebody tell me about a good resource for those
> dandy,
> expandable, finned heat sinks that I see used on the
> metal can
> 2N2222's.
>
> I'm closing in on finishing my 2N2_20 and don't want
> to try and
> fashion something that would look any worse than
> what I've done
> already and maybe not work very well either.
>
> I would buy someone's spares if any of you have any
> to spare.
>
> Mike, WA5PSE
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.comThat would be great Howard...I'll send you the money tomorrow.
I did a little more this evening. Got the PA put together...That
leaves only the Rcv T/R sw and input filter circuitry to build.
That would complete the main xcvr board...
Still several more bites of the elephant to go, but, it's really
starting to look like something now with almost all the copper clad
covered up!
Mike
PS, unless you advise me to the contrary, I'll use your adr on
qrz.com
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Howard Kraus wrote:
>
> Mouser has them, 532-322505B00. They are small enough
> to mount them on the finals (and the driver) at the
> spacing I've seen on the 40 and the 20. I have one,
> if you'd like it. $1.00 and I'll mail it to you.
> They sell for just a bit over $2.00 at Mouser.
>
> 72 es GL
>
> Howard Kraus, K2UD
> --- k9qb wrote:
>
> > Can somebody tell me about a good resource for those
> > dandy,
> > expandable, finned heat sinks that I see used on the
> > metal can
> > 2N2222's.
> >
> > I'm closing in on finishing my 2N2_20 and don't want
> > to try and
> > fashion something that would look any worse than
> > what I've done
> > already and maybe not work very well either.
> >
> > I would buy someone's spares if any of you have any
> > to spare.
> >
> > Mike, WA5PSE
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
Jim,
I have a question about the RIT board...
Your schematic diagram shows a .01mfd cap connected at the R22, R23,
R24 node to ground.
When I view the photo of your build, it appears that the .01 cap is
tied to the TxVcc, R22 node.
Does it make any difference?...It seems to me that it should be
connected per schematic.
Also, am I correct in my guess that you used a .01mfd cap there instead
of a .1mfd for QSK purposes??
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3636|3635|2007-04-20 13:02:51|Jim Kortge|Re: RIT Control Schematic|k9qb wrote:
> Jim,
>
> I have a question about the RIT board...
>
> Your schematic diagram shows a .01mfd cap connected at the R22, R23,
> R24 node to ground.
> When I view the photo of your build, it appears that the .01 cap is
> tied to the TxVcc, R22 node.
In my rig, there is actually a 0.01uF capacitor at each location. One on the
TxVcc line to ground at the junction of that line and
r22, and a second one at the junction of R22, R23, and R24. The one on the TxVcc
line seems to be missing from the schematic doesn't it! :-) I'll have to fix that.
>
> Does it make any difference?...It seems to me that it should be
> connected per schematic.
Do it as above is my recommendation.
>
> Also, am I correct in my guess that you used a .01mfd cap there instead
> of a .1mfd for QSK purposes??
>
Yes, wanted to keep the charging/discharging times down so that the QSK would
work as designed.
72 and thanks for finding the schematic error,
Jim, K8IQY
I am looking for sources to order parts for my build. Radio Shack
lists catalog number 273-1380 as a 1000 ct 8 ohm transformer for
$2.99. Is this close enough to the 1200 ct 8 ct called for or where
else can I look? thanks in advance de Paul N0NBD
|
3639|3639|2007-05-22 20:50:08|pds22553|Transformer question # 2|I went and searched Mouser and Digikey and both list a 1200ct 8 ct
transformer at $17.91. WOW! this is an expensive elephant hi hi
de Paul N0NBD
|
3640|3638|2007-05-22 21:09:34|Howard Kraus|Re: 2N2 audio transformer|Is this for the audio amp in the 2N2/40? Jim spec'd a
Mouser xfmr for less $ for the '40 and for his
Islander Audio Amplifier. I recall spending only a
few dollars for a Mouser xmfr in '99 for my '40s.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- pds22553 <
psmith61@cox.net> wrote:
> I am looking for sources to order parts for my
> build. Radio Shack
> lists catalog number 273-1380 as a 1000 ct 8 ohm
> transformer for
> $2.99. Is this close enough to the 1200 ct 8 ct
> called for or where
> else can I look? thanks in advance de Paul N0NBD
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos & more.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXICpds22553 wrote:
> I am looking for sources to order parts for my build. Radio Shack
> lists catalog number 273-1380 as a 1000 ct 8 ohm transformer for
> $2.99. Is this close enough to the 1200 ct 8 ct called for or where
> else can I look? thanks in advance de Paul N0NBD
>
Paul,
That part will work fine. Here is the Mouser transformer that I use.
http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=42tm003 It is their part number 42TM003-RC; cost is $1.73 in single quantity.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks for the info on the transformer. I have the Mouser number on my
order sheet now.
De Paul N0NBD
|
3643|3638|2007-05-23 07:36:21|dek8gd|Re: 2N2 audio transformer|Paul,
I have several of those transformers. Let me know where you want me
to send it and I'll drop one in the mail to you.
Jeff, K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
>
> pds22553 wrote:
> > I am looking for sources to order parts for my build. Radio Shack
> > lists catalog number 273-1380 as a 1000 ct 8 ohm transformer for
> > $2.99. Is this close enough to the 1200 ct 8 ct called for or where
> > else can I look? thanks in advance de Paul N0NBD
> >
>
> Paul,
>
> That part will work fine. Here is the Mouser transformer that I use.
>
> http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=42tm003
>
> It is their part number 42TM003-RC; cost is $1.73 in single quantity.
>
> 72 and kind regards,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Thanks Jeff,
Will be glad to re-imburse you.
Paul N0NBD
Address is:
Paul Smith
320 South 5th Street
Humboldt, KS. 66748-1662
-- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "dek8gd"
wrote:
>
> Paul,
>
> I have several of those transformers. Let me know where you want
me
> to send it and I'll drop one in the mail to you.
>
> Jeff, K8GD
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > pds22553 wrote:
> > > I am looking for sources to order parts for my build. Radio
Shack
> > > lists catalog number 273-1380 as a 1000 ct 8 ohm transformer
for
> > > $2.99. Is this close enough to the 1200 ct 8 ct called for or
where
> > > else can I look? thanks in advance de Paul N0NBD
> > >
> >
> > Paul,
> >
> > That part will work fine. Here is the Mouser transformer that I
use.
> >
> > http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=42tm003
> >
> > It is their part number 42TM003-RC; cost is $1.73 in single
quantity.
> >
> > 72 and kind regards,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
>
My 2N2_20 is nearing completion.
I have yet to build the standoff VFO tuning and RIT controls, but, the
thing seems to want to work nicely up above the band a little...which
seems perfectly normal to me.
After finding I'd left out a TX VCC jumper to the final, I finally
started getting output, albeit short-lived.
I'm showing a steady .9V of RF at the final base when the TX is keyed,
however, my DMM captures around 3 to 4 volts of RF that rapidly fades
out.
My VCC is steady and drive seems steady as above....that output just
drops out rapidly after key down.
Any thoughts, out there, as to what the heck is going on???
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3646|3645|2007-07-03 20:15:45|Howard Kraus|Re: 2N2_20 output issue|Hey Mike,
My experience with the 2N2/40 is that the finals will
pop if you key down for too long a period, Jim will
verify this. This occurred while running into a dummy
load. You will hear this in you 'phones, it will
sound like a click, followed by no sidetone.
Too long a period for me turned out to be about 10-12
seconds keydown. Under normal CW operating conditions
you would likely not duplicate this duty cycle.
Whilst tuning up the rig, well, it happens.
Fortunately '2222's are inexpensive.
You might experience this with your 2N2/20 also. I
would limit keydown periods to no more than about 4-5
seconds.
I hope this helps.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- k9qb <
k9qb@yahoo.com> wrote:
> My 2N2_20 is nearing completion.
>
> I have yet to build the standoff VFO tuning and RIT
> controls, but, the
> thing seems to want to work nicely up above the band
> a little...which
> seems perfectly normal to me.
>
> After finding I'd left out a TX VCC jumper to the
> final, I finally
> started getting output, albeit short-lived.
>
> I'm showing a steady .9V of RF at the final base
> when the TX is keyed,
> however, my DMM captures around 3 to 4 volts of RF
> that rapidly fades
> out.
>
> My VCC is steady and drive seems steady as
> above....that output just
> drops out rapidly after key down.
>
> Any thoughts, out there, as to what the heck is
> going on???
>
> Mike, WA5PSE
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/k9qb wrote:
> My 2N2_20 is nearing completion.
>
> I have yet to build the standoff VFO tuning and RIT controls, but, the
> thing seems to want to work nicely up above the band a little...which
> seems perfectly normal to me.
>
> After finding I'd left out a TX VCC jumper to the final, I finally
> started getting output, albeit short-lived.
Yikes, Tx Vcc doesn't go to the final, just the Vcc line. If you are trying to
carry all of the final amplifier current through that little keying transistor,
no wonder the power is dropping off!
>
> I'm showing a steady .9V of RF at the final base when the TX is keyed,
> however, my DMM captures around 3 to 4 volts of RF that rapidly fades
> out.
See above Mike.......
>
> My VCC is steady and drive seems steady as above....that output just
> drops out rapidly after key down.
Yes, I'll bet it does.
>
> Any thoughts, out there, as to what the heck is going on???
Yes, replace that Tx Vcc line to the final with Vcc and everything should power
up nicely. The output should not drop off with the 2SC2166 or equivalent in the
final.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
OOOOOOOOOOPPPPSSSS...
OMG...Yep, that's gotta be it...
I'm out of pocket for the moment, but, am just sure that's
right...Thanks Jim...
Mike
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
>
> k9qb wrote:
> > My 2N2_20 is nearing completion.
> >
> > I have yet to build the standoff VFO tuning and RIT controls,
but, the
> > thing seems to want to work nicely up above the band a
little...which
> > seems perfectly normal to me.
> >
> > After finding I'd left out a TX VCC jumper to the final, I
finally
> > started getting output, albeit short-lived.
>
> Yikes, Tx Vcc doesn't go to the final, just the Vcc line. If you
are trying to
> carry all of the final amplifier current through that little
keying transistor,
> no wonder the power is dropping off!
> >
> > I'm showing a steady .9V of RF at the final base when the TX is
keyed,
> > however, my DMM captures around 3 to 4 volts of RF that rapidly
fades
> > out.
>
> See above Mike.......
>
> >
> > My VCC is steady and drive seems steady as above....that output
just
> > drops out rapidly after key down.
>
> Yes, I'll bet it does.
> >
> > Any thoughts, out there, as to what the heck is going on???
>
> Yes, replace that Tx Vcc line to the final with Vcc and everything
should power
> up nicely. The output should not drop off with the 2SC2166 or
equivalent in the
> final.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Thanks for the reply Howard, but, as you've probably gathered from
what Jim has offered, and, my response, my output transistor was
never in any danger of "popping", HI!...
However, I will keep that in mind when I do get things cooking at
full potential.
My intention is to run at arouund 3 to 4 watts...things outa be
pretty safe there....I may even consider switching in a resistor into
that drive control circuit to bump the power down when tuning an
antenna or whatever....
Then the concern would be for that little ole 2N2222 driver running
class A....
IT'S ALWAYS SOMETHING!....Rosanne Roannerdanner
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Howard Kraus wrote:
>
> Hey Mike,
>
> My experience with the 2N2/40 is that the finals will
> pop if you key down for too long a period, Jim will
> verify this. This occurred while running into a dummy
> load. You will hear this in you 'phones, it will
> sound like a click, followed by no sidetone.
>
> Too long a period for me turned out to be about 10-12
> seconds keydown. Under normal CW operating conditions
> you would likely not duplicate this duty cycle.
> Whilst tuning up the rig, well, it happens.
> Fortunately '2222's are inexpensive.
>
> You might experience this with your 2N2/20 also. I
> would limit keydown periods to no more than about 4-5
> seconds.
>
> I hope this helps.
>
> 72
>
> Howard Kraus, K2UD
> --- k9qb wrote:
>
> > My 2N2_20 is nearing completion.
> >
> > I have yet to build the standoff VFO tuning and RIT
> > controls, but, the
> > thing seems to want to work nicely up above the band
> > a little...which
> > seems perfectly normal to me.
> >
> > After finding I'd left out a TX VCC jumper to the
> > final, I finally
> > started getting output, albeit short-lived.
> >
> > I'm showing a steady .9V of RF at the final base
> > when the TX is keyed,
> > however, my DMM captures around 3 to 4 volts of RF
> > that rapidly fades
> > out.
> >
> > My VCC is steady and drive seems steady as
> > above....that output just
> > drops out rapidly after key down.
> >
> > Any thoughts, out there, as to what the heck is
> > going on???
> >
> > Mike, WA5PSE
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative
vehicles. Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.
> http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
>
Thanks to the last couple weeks of rain, I went on a cleaning binge
in my shack and re-discovered my bench top.
So I resumed work on the 2N2_20.
I checked the receive sensitivity of the 2N2_20 with my Cushman CE-50
Communications Analyzer at about 14.025 Mhz and it shows about .3 to
1 millivolt receive sensitivity...
Ran the same test on my gorgeous old SX-100A, I came up with about 1
microvolt sens which was also reflected on the signal strength meter
on the SX-100A.
Upon checking out DC voltages on all the receive transistors,they all
looked good except for Q1..That's the Norton amp...
The readings were, 2.17 on the emitter, 1.9 on the base and 13.9 on
the collector.
This doesn't seem right to me.
I have closely examind the circuit and just can't seem to find any
errors...I'm stumped...
Can anyone help me??
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3651|3650|2007-08-26 15:58:46|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2_20 low receive sensitivity|k9qb wrote:
> Thanks to the last couple weeks of rain, I went on a cleaning binge
> in my shack and re-discovered my bench top.
>
> So I resumed work on the 2N2_20.
>
> I checked the receive sensitivity of the 2N2_20 with my Cushman CE-50
> Communications Analyzer at about 14.025 Mhz and it shows about .3 to
> 1 millivolt receive sensitivity...
>
> Ran the same test on my gorgeous old SX-100A, I came up with about 1
> microvolt sens which was also reflected on the signal strength meter
> on the SX-100A.
>
> Upon checking out DC voltages on all the receive transistors,they all
> looked good except for Q1..That's the Norton amp...
>
> The readings were, 2.17 on the emitter, 1.9 on the base and 13.9 on
> the collector.
>
> This doesn't seem right to me.
>
It isn't! With a 12 volt supply on mine, I see 11.8 volts on the collector,
1.92 on the base, and 1.26 on the emitter.
> I have closely examind the circuit and just can't seem to find any
> errors...I'm stumped...
I'm guessing that the 1-turn winding on the RF Amp toroid isn't phased
correctly. Swap the ends around. If it is not correctly phased, the amp isn't an
amplifier, but a rather strong oscillator. That's why you are seeing the emitter
voltages higher than the base voltages. The emitter has a lot of signal on it
when the stage is oscillating.
BTW, when you get the amplifier to amplify, the receive sensitivity ought to be
about 0.1 uV or less. Mine measures out to -130 dBm for MDS, about 70 nanovolts.
>
> Can anyone help me??
See above.....
72/73,
Jim, K8IQY
Hello Jim,
I swapped the leads on the primary of T1 as you suggested...that did
the trick on the Norton amp oscillation alrighty!!!
Then, turning my attention to the TX and all of a sudden my drive went
POOF!!!
Seems I've got signal from the TX L.O.,but, NADA, nuttin', zeero on
pin6 of ADE-1 mixer...Guess what...pin6 shorted to ground!!
Wassup with that????
Please, tell me what I did, because, I don't want to do it again!!!!
I am tempted to build a new mixer with some of my surplus
1N5711's...Would that be adviseable?
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3653|3653|2007-09-05 07:38:21|k9qb|2N2_20 Receiver performance|Jim,
I have hurdled all the obstacles, so far, to finally connect my
2N2_20 to an antenna and hear the first few signals on 20M...those
obstacles were all/mostly, of my own making (stupidity?, maybe).
Anyway, I don't quite know what to expect from this thing...
You mentioned that yours has .1uv "MDS"..."MDS" I assume to mean
Minimum Discernable Signal.
My receive audio seems weak to me and I am curious if my receiver is
working up to snuff.
I have a Cushman CE-50 that seems to be pretty much spot on when it
comes to a calibrated output level.
A numeric "benchmark", if you will, would give me an idea if I am
even in the ballpark...
It would be a big help if I knew, say for a 3 microvolt carrier at
the antenna terminal, what a "typical" P-P level would appear at the
speaker terminals.
I'm figuring I should be satisfied with some kind of reading that
would be in the range of +-3db from a known performer, maybe even
closer.
Would you please tell me what you are getting from yours?
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3654|3653|2007-09-05 14:30:57|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2_20 Receiver performance|k9qb wrote:
> Jim,
Greetings Mike,
>
> I have hurdled all the obstacles, so far, to finally connect my
> 2N2_20 to an antenna and hear the first few signals on 20M...those
> obstacles were all/mostly, of my own making (stupidity?, maybe).
Well don't be too hard on yourself. On my latest project, I was doing some
testing last nite and the final amplifier transistor was running much too hot
and way above the temperature that I remembered it running on a prototype
lash-up a couple of months ago. After doing some digging, I found that I had
installed the two toroid coils in the LP filter in the wrong places; the 13-turn
was where the 15-turn was supposed to go and of course, the 15-turn was where
the 13-turn was supposed to be. After making the change, the power output went
up and the temperature of the final transistor when way down. Very little
heating now at full power. You would think the guy that designed the dang thing
could built it correctly! :-)
>
> Anyway, I don't quite know what to expect from this thing...
>
> You mentioned that yours has .1uv "MDS"..."MDS" I assume to mean
> Minimum Discernable Signal.
Yes, that's correct.
>
> My receive audio seems weak to me and I am curious if my receiver is
> working up to snuff.
>
> I have a Cushman CE-50 that seems to be pretty much spot on when it
> comes to a calibrated output level.
>
> A numeric "benchmark", if you will, would give me an idea if I am
> even in the ballpark...
> It would be a big help if I knew, say for a 3 microvolt carrier at
> the antenna terminal, what a "typical" P-P level would appear at the
> speaker terminals.
I just did that test for you. Running 5 microvolts into the antenna terminals
results in 670 millivolts peak-to-peak across the speaker terminals with an
8-Ohm speaker attached and the volume control set at the half way point. It's a
pretty loud audio signal under those conditions.
>
> I'm figuring I should be satisfied with some kind of reading that
> would be in the range of +-3db from a known performer, maybe even
> closer.
>
> Would you please tell me what you are getting from yours?
See above. I don't know if the 2N2/30 or 2N2/40+ do the same amount of output.
That would be nice to know sometime, but not right now. Too many alligators to
slay at the moment.
Hope this helps Mike. Gotta run.......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks, Jim...
It's about as I suspected...
At 10 uv signal, I'm seeing a 500 mv P-P, at the 8 ohm speaker, with
volume all the way up and only about 100 mv at half volume.
Calculating in my head, i think I'm seeing about 10 to 12 db less
signal at the speaker than you're seeing...that seems like a bit too
much difference to me, and, it's very noticeable...Hmmmmmm
For some reason the fine adj on the CE-50 isn't working...The steps
are 10 uv, 3 uv, 1 uv and so on...and no variable adj.
I did take a liberty with the 2 pf Rx input filter coupling cap... I
made a gimmick cap by twisting a couple of pieces of insulated #26
telephone wire together and trimmed to a 2 pf reading.
Aside from that, everything else is spot on.
I'll go back through and check all my transistor DC voltages again to
see if thhere's anything amiss...
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
>
> k9qb wrote:
> > Jim,
>
> Greetings Mike,
>
> >
> > I have hurdled all the obstacles, so far, to finally connect my
> > 2N2_20 to an antenna and hear the first few signals on
20M...those
> > obstacles were all/mostly, of my own making (stupidity?, maybe).
>
> Well don't be too hard on yourself. On my latest project, I was
doing some
> testing last nite and the final amplifier transistor was running
much too hot
> and way above the temperature that I remembered it running on a
prototype
> lash-up a couple of months ago. After doing some digging, I found
that I had
> installed the two toroid coils in the LP filter in the wrong
places; the 13-turn
> was where the 15-turn was supposed to go and of course, the 15-turn
was where
> the 13-turn was supposed to be. After making the change, the power
output went
> up and the temperature of the final transistor when way down. Very
little
> heating now at full power. You would think the guy that designed
the dang thing
> could built it correctly! :-)
> >
> > Anyway, I don't quite know what to expect from this thing...
> >
> > You mentioned that yours has .1uv "MDS"..."MDS" I assume to mean
> > Minimum Discernable Signal.
>
> Yes, that's correct.
> >
> > My receive audio seems weak to me and I am curious if my receiver
is
> > working up to snuff.
> >
> > I have a Cushman CE-50 that seems to be pretty much spot on when
it
> > comes to a calibrated output level.
> >
> > A numeric "benchmark", if you will, would give me an idea if I am
> > even in the ballpark...
> > It would be a big help if I knew, say for a 3 microvolt carrier
at
> > the antenna terminal, what a "typical" P-P level would appear at
the
> > speaker terminals.
>
> I just did that test for you. Running 5 microvolts into the antenna
terminals
> results in 670 millivolts peak-to-peak across the speaker terminals
with an
> 8-Ohm speaker attached and the volume control set at the half way
point. It's a
> pretty loud audio signal under those conditions.
>
> >
> > I'm figuring I should be satisfied with some kind of reading that
> > would be in the range of +-3db from a known performer, maybe even
> > closer.
> >
> > Would you please tell me what you are getting from yours?
>
> See above. I don't know if the 2N2/30 or 2N2/40+ do the same amount
of output.
> That would be nice to know sometime, but not right now. Too many
alligators to
> slay at the moment.
>
> Hope this helps Mike. Gotta run.......
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
k9qb wrote:
> Thanks, Jim...
You are welcome....
>
> It's about as I suspected...
>
> At 10 uv signal, I'm seeing a 500 mv P-P, at the 8 ohm speaker, with
> volume all the way up and only about 100 mv at half volume.
>
> Calculating in my head, i think I'm seeing about 10 to 12 db less
> signal at the speaker than you're seeing...that seems like a bit too
> much difference to me, and, it's very noticeable...Hmmmmmm
Well, maybe it isn't all that different. Mine may be 5-6 dB hotter than the
average 2N2/20, and yours may be 5-6 dB below the average. That's not really all
that different considering the possibilities. Also, something might be causing
that difference beyond pure tolerance stack-up. The RF gain may be a tad low due
to something in the front-end not operating as expected, like the RF shunt
switch being turned on a bit, or the RF gain control not up to full, or leakage
in the reversed biased diode at the LC junction in the front-end. The same could
be true farther downstream too. Somewhere in the 2N2/20 archives, maybe on the
Yahoo site is a set of measurements along the receiver showing the signal levels
on mine with an input. I can't remember the input level. I think I went probing
along each stage with the SA looking at signal levels with the 5K probe that I
built. You can see the nominal stage gains (and losses) along the way.
>
> For some reason the fine adj on the CE-50 isn't working...The steps
> are 10 uv, 3 uv, 1 uv and so on...and no variable adj.
I can rerun the test at 3uV if that would be helpful?
>
> I did take a liberty with the 2 pf Rx input filter coupling cap... I
> made a gimmick cap by twisting a couple of pieces of insulated #26
> telephone wire together and trimmed to a 2 pf reading.
I've done that a number of times to make small capacitors. Using the AADE as a
measurement tool, one can get exactly what is needed.
>
> Aside from that, everything else is spot on.
>
> I'll go back through and check all my transistor DC voltages again to
> see if thhere's anything amiss...
Probably worth doing.
I hope you find something......
73,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the encouragement, but, 10 to 12 db is really noticeable,
I mean, even compared to the SX-100 and the Omni-D !
I'm going to explore those points you mentioned that could be
compromising my sensitivity.
Also, until I figure it out, I have some ADE-1's and another bunch of
mixers coming from Dan's small Parts...
These other mixers, supposedly compare to the ADE-1 and the SBL-1, at
about half the price!
I'll use one of the new ADE-1's to replace the one that shorted in
the 2nN2-20 xmtr mixer.
The rest of the mixers will get used in 40 and 30 m versions of the
2N2222 rigs.
So many projects...so little time!
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>
>
> k9qb wrote:
> > Thanks, Jim...
>
> You are welcome....
>
> >
> > It's about as I suspected...
> >
> > At 10 uv signal, I'm seeing a 500 mv P-P, at the 8 ohm speaker,
with
> > volume all the way up and only about 100 mv at half volume.
> >
> > Calculating in my head, i think I'm seeing about 10 to 12 db less
> > signal at the speaker than you're seeing...that seems like a bit
too
> > much difference to me, and, it's very noticeable...Hmmmmmm
>
> Well, maybe it isn't all that different. Mine may be 5-6 dB hotter
than the
> average 2N2/20, and yours may be 5-6 dB below the average. That's
not really all
> that different considering the possibilities. Also, something might
be causing
> that difference beyond pure tolerance stack-up. The RF gain may be
a tad low due
> to something in the front-end not operating as expected, like the
RF shunt
> switch being turned on a bit, or the RF gain control not up to
full, or leakage
> in the reversed biased diode at the LC junction in the front-end.
The same could
> be true farther downstream too. Somewhere in the 2N2/20 archives,
maybe on the
> Yahoo site is a set of measurements along the receiver showing the
signal levels
> on mine with an input. I can't remember the input level. I think I
went probing
> along each stage with the SA looking at signal levels with the 5K
probe that I
> built. You can see the nominal stage gains (and losses) along the
way.
> >
> > For some reason the fine adj on the CE-50 isn't working...The
steps
> > are 10 uv, 3 uv, 1 uv and so on...and no variable adj.
>
> I can rerun the test at 3uV if that would be helpful?
>
> >
> > I did take a liberty with the 2 pf Rx input filter coupling
cap... I
> > made a gimmick cap by twisting a couple of pieces of insulated
#26
> > telephone wire together and trimmed to a 2 pf reading.
>
> I've done that a number of times to make small capacitors. Using
the AADE as a
> measurement tool, one can get exactly what is needed.
> >
> > Aside from that, everything else is spot on.
> >
> > I'll go back through and check all my transistor DC voltages
again to
> > see if thhere's anything amiss...
>
> Probably worth doing.
>
> I hope you find something......
>
> 73,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Hi Jim and Group...
Success at last...with the receiver, at least.
I started checking various semiconductors in the front end as you
suggested, but, couldn't find any problems with those...
So, then went back through old threads, particularly a couple back in
the summer of 05.
One guy was having difficulty with the low pass filter.
That made me think of a way to check mine out.
So, I put enough RF into the filter to see signal on my scope...Then,
starting at 10 mhz, I dialed the freq up to see what would happen...
As you already know, there was very little loss until I got to just
over 16.5 mhz with real attenuation kicking in at around 18 mhz.
So, I then started looking at RX Inp Filter...Couldn't be more
creative than tacking small amounts of capacitance onto the scrounged
TC2 and TC3 caps and retuning...BINGO!!...Both caps were running out
of capacitance.
Brad (WA5PSA) and I had bought a bag of trimmers for a real good
price and we've been massaging them with shunt and series capacitance
to get desired values...
Guess I missed on TC2 and TC3...go figure.
To make a long story short, I'm getting about 350mv P-P at the
speaker with .3 uv at the antenna...BUT, that was at full volume...
So, still not good as yours, but much closer.
Switching back and forth between the TenTec OmniD and the 2N2_20, the
2N2_20 was about same in overall sensitivity AND had .much better
signal to noise and that's NICE!!
ONWARD TO THE TX!!
Thanks for the encouragement...I feel like I may actually get there
yet...Mike (WA5PSE)
|
3659|3658|2007-09-12 08:59:04|Jim Kortge|Re: Receiver SUCCESS!!|k9qb wrote:
> Hi Jim and Group...
Greetings Mike,
>
> Success at last...with the receiver, at least.
Teriffic....I knew you would eventually find what was wrong! Just a matter of
time and snooping around in the rig.
>
> I started checking various semiconductors in the front end as you
> suggested, but, couldn't find any problems with those...
> So, then went back through old threads, particularly a couple back in
> the summer of 05.
>
> One guy was having difficulty with the low pass filter.
> That made me think of a way to check mine out.
>
> So, I put enough RF into the filter to see signal on my scope...Then,
> starting at 10 mhz, I dialed the freq up to see what would happen...
>
> As you already know, there was very little loss until I got to just
> over 16.5 mhz with real attenuation kicking in at around 18 mhz.
>
> So, I then started looking at RX Inp Filter...Couldn't be more
> creative than tacking small amounts of capacitance onto the scrounged
> TC2 and TC3 caps and retuning...BINGO!!...Both caps were running out
> of capacitance.
Oooh, I hate when that happens. Tuned circuits that won't tune to where you want
them.
>
> Brad (WA5PSA) and I had bought a bag of trimmers for a real good
> price and we've been massaging them with shunt and series capacitance
> to get desired values...
> Guess I missed on TC2 and TC3...go figure.
Done that sort of thing many times myself. I know what I wanted to do, but
forgot to do it in the heat of the chase.
>
> To make a long story short, I'm getting about 350mv P-P at the
> speaker with .3 uv at the antenna...BUT, that was at full volume...
> So, still not good as yours, but much closer.
Maybe still need to tweak the coupling capacitor between the two inductors. If
that is too low, the insertion loss of the filter goes up quite dramatically.
>
> Switching back and forth between the TenTec OmniD and the 2N2_20, the
> 2N2_20 was about same in overall sensitivity AND had .much better
> signal to noise and that's NICE!!
>
> ONWARD TO THE TX!!
Yeah!
>
> Thanks for the encouragement...I feel like I may actually get there
> yet...Mike (WA5PSE)
I have no question in my mind that you'll finish this rig and you are going to
be one happy and geeked builder when it is done and working like a charm. Way
to go and thanks for the update.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim and the group,
Can someone provde me with RF voltage levels and/or scope patterns
taken at strategic points throughout the 2N2_20 TX strip?
I replaced the faulty ADE1 mixer in mine last evening and have now got
about 3v RF output max from the final.
I'm thinking I should be seeing something more on the order of 15 v RF.
I am using 2SC2075 transistor for what that's worth.
I feel like I'm just so close!
Mike (WA5PSE)
|
3661|3661|2007-09-13 16:17:39|tiana891|where to start?|I have down loaded
EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4.pdf
EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4_pad_locations.pdf
2N240+Sheet1L.PDF
2N240+Sheet2L.PDF
2N240+Sheet3L.PDF
2N240+Sheet4L.PDF
From the files section. Is this the right place to start? I'm pretty
new at this building stuff so I think may take me a while. Plus having
two young children Makes it so I can only turn on the soldering iron
when they are asleep. And I'm using the kitchen table as my work bench
so I can't leave anything out. I'm working on a couple kits right now.
This will be a good project to work on figuring out how to work from a
schematic. And have a place to come with questions.
Thanks and 73 Tiana KE5ODX
|
3662|3661|2007-09-13 16:35:28|k9qb|Re: where to start?|Tiana,
Another, extremely helpful item would be Larry's(K3PEG)excellent
board layout for the 2N2_40...find that at
http://www.learnmorsecode.com/ver4.pd ...and and print it...You'll
find it very helpful.
Otherwise, it looks like you've got most of it...
If anything else comes up that you need help with, just post a
distress call like i'm prone to do...
Mike (WA5PSE)
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "tiana891" wrote:
>
> I have down loaded
>
> EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4.pdf
>
> EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4_pad_locations.pdf
>
> 2N240+Sheet1L.PDF
>
> 2N240+Sheet2L.PDF
>
> 2N240+Sheet3L.PDF
>
> 2N240+Sheet4L.PDF
>
> From the files section. Is this the right place to start? I'm
pretty
> new at this building stuff so I think may take me a while. Plus
having
> two young children Makes it so I can only turn on the soldering
iron
> when they are asleep. And I'm using the kitchen table as my work
bench
> so I can't leave anything out. I'm working on a couple kits right
now.
> This will be a good project to work on figuring out how to work
from a
> schematic. And have a place to come with questions.
>
> Thanks and 73 Tiana KE5ODX
>
Thanks Mike,
I'm sure I'll have my share of distress calls. I wonder if anyone
has tried to make it with tiny smt components. I'm tempted to give
it a try.
Tiana KE5ODX
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "k9qb" wrote:
>
> Tiana,
>
> Another, extremely helpful item would be Larry's(K3PEG)excellent
> board layout for the 2N2_40...find that at
> http://www.learnmorsecode.com/ver4.pd ...and and print it...You'll
> find it very helpful.
>
> Otherwise, it looks like you've got most of it...
>
> If anything else comes up that you need help with, just post a
> distress call like i'm prone to do...
>
> Mike (WA5PSE)
>
>
The 2n2_40 was designed to be a low cost project for folks in countries
where it was difficult to get exotic parts and printed circuit boards.
That said, it would be interesting to see what could be done with
Surface Mount parts. You'd certainly need to use (a) standard 2N2222(s)
or substitutes for the PA and probably for the driver transistor.
73 de n8xx Hg
tiana891 wrote:
> Thanks Mike,
>
> I'm sure I'll have my share of distress calls. I wonder if anyone
> has tried to make it with tiny smt components. I'm tempted to give
> it a try.
>
> Tiana KE5ODX
If you roam the QRP pages of Jim's site you'll see he's made liberal
use of SMT parts...
I don't know how small you're talking, but, I prefer not trying to
handle anything smaller than 1206 size parts...
We use much smaller where I work, but, we've got machines and younger
hands and eyes there, HI.
Anyway, SM parts make for nice compact modules...
Call me "old school", but, because of past experience I've had with
SM ceramic caps, I try to avoid using those...I'm sure the newer
generation of caps are more reliable than several years ago.
Mike
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "tiana891" wrote:
>
> Thanks Mike,
>
> I'm sure I'll have my share of distress calls. I wonder if anyone
> has tried to make it with tiny smt components. I'm tempted to give
> it a try.
>
> Tiana KE5ODX
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "k9qb" wrote:
> >
> > Tiana,
> >
> > Another, extremely helpful item would be Larry's(K3PEG)excellent
> > board layout for the 2N2_40...find that at
> > http://www.learnmorsecode.com/ver4.pd ...and and print
it...You'll
> > find it very helpful.
> >
> > Otherwise, it looks like you've got most of it...
> >
> > If anything else comes up that you need help with, just post a
> > distress call like i'm prone to do...
> >
> > Mike (WA5PSE)
> >
> >
>
Think all of what you are looking for is up on the Yahoo groups website, for
Rx and Tx.
Steve NU0P
-----Original Message-----
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
k9qb
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 10:29 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: [2n2-40] TX levels...
Jim and the group,
Can someone provde me with RF voltage levels and/or scope patterns
taken at strategic points throughout the 2N2_20 TX strip?
I replaced the faulty ADE1 mixer in mine last evening and have now got
about 3v RF output max from the final.
I'm thinking I should be seeing something more on the order of 15 v RF.
I am using 2SC2075 transistor for what that's worth.
I feel like I'm just so close!
Mike (WA5PSE)
Yahoo! Groups Links
Hi Steve,
It didn't occur to me that the readings for the 2N2_40 would be valid
for the 2N2_20...Duhhh
Now, back to the bench to try and figure out where all my signal is
going!!
It's frustrating being just so close and not quite able to pull the
trigger on this thing!
I guess that's what I get for going cheap and substituting parts.
Mike
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "steve" wrote:
>
> Think all of what you are looking for is up on the Yahoo groups
website, for
> Rx and Tx.
> Steve NU0P
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2n2-40@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of
> k9qb
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 10:29 AM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2n2-40] TX levels...
>
> Jim and the group,
>
> Can someone provde me with RF voltage levels and/or scope patterns
> taken at strategic points throughout the 2N2_20 TX strip?
>
> I replaced the faulty ADE1 mixer in mine last evening and have now
got
> about 3v RF output max from the final.
> I'm thinking I should be seeing something more on the order of 15 v
RF.
>
> I am using 2SC2075 transistor for what that's worth.
>
> I feel like I'm just so close!
>
> Mike (WA5PSE)
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
k9qb wrote:
> Jim and the group,
>
> Can someone provde me with RF voltage levels and/or scope patterns
> taken at strategic points throughout the 2N2_20 TX strip?
Somewhere I've got most of that on this computer. It is a matter of finding it
and seeing if it is small enough in size that I can send it out with my stupid
dial up connection. I sure wish AT&T would get off their collective arse and
provide something a bit more speedy; T1 link speed would be fine!
>
> I replaced the faulty ADE1 mixer in mine last evening and have now got
> about 3v RF output max from the final.
> I'm thinking I should be seeing something more on the order of 15 v RF.
Yes, 15 volt rms is on the order of what you should be seeing. I'm guessing
problems in two areas. First, if the cutoff of the low pass filter is too close
to 14 MHz or the impedance presented to the final isn't right, it won't run the
kind of output you'd like to see. Most times when that is the case, the final
will get really hot as the power that supposed to be getting to the antenna is
still in the final and warms that transistor up. It gets really hot sometimes.
The second issue may be low output from the 1-turn link driving the Tx mixer.
You can remove the resistive divider and replace it with a 43 Ohm resistor in
series with the 1-turn link. That should still be a safe level into the rf port
of the mixer and provide much more drive on the Tx side for the cascode
amplifier to work with. The ideal level into the rf port is -3 dbm or maybe a
tad more, but not more than 0 dBm.
Also, make sure that the trimmers in the Tx cascode amp are peaking at two
locations during a 360 degree rotation. That way, we know the input and output
tuned circuits are really getting to resonance. You've had some experience on
the Rx input filter with the stages not tuning up properly with diminished
signal levels as a result.
>
> I am using 2SC2075 transistor for what that's worth.
That should work fine.
>
> I feel like I'm just so close!
I'll bet you are.....
72 Mike and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
tiana891 wrote:
> Thanks Mike,
>
> I'm sure I'll have my share of distress calls. I wonder if anyone
> has tried to make it with tiny smt components. I'm tempted to give
> it a try.
>
> Tiana KE5ODX
Tiana,
Much of the 2N2/30 was done with surface mount resistors and capacitors, as well
as a lot of conventional leaded parts. That rig was sort of a test bed for doing
Manhattan-style construction with SM parts.
The pads were made with 1/32 inch think single sided PCB so that the 1206 size
parts would not be in much of an angle if one end was on a pad and the other end
grounded to the substrate. There are pictures on the k8iqy.com web page and in
the presentation .pdf file that is there that you can download.
Some time back, one of the early 2N2/40 builders built his rig will all SM
parts. I'm not sure I can find the picture of that rig at this point. A lot of
water has spilled over the dam! :-)
My advice would be to build this first rig using conventional leaded parts as
they are easier to work with and make changes to the circuitry if that is
needed. I've yet to build a rig where I didn't have to "undo" stuff because I
didn't like the way the layout came out or I didn't build it the way I had
intended. Yes, sometimes I make mistakes following my own designs. As one gets
older, more frequently it would seem. :-)
Take a piece of PCB material, clean it good, and get started. Building a rig
from scratch is kinda like eating a elephant. You have to do it in small bites.
An hour a day is plenty for a new builder and you can get a decent amount of
circuitry built or tested in that amount of time. Be brave and use your own
ideas regarding physical layout of the parts. It isn't all that critical in
terms of performance, and when you do it right, you'll really feel good about
what you've done, and when it doesn't work out, analyze why, learn from that
experience, unsolder the parts and pull up the pads, and do it a different way.
What you learn is the important element and you'll learn as much from doing it
wrong as doing it right.
73 and by all means, have fun with the building, testing, and learning,
Jim, K8IQY
I've been wanting to build a 2N2-40 for quite some time but never
thought I had the skills to actually pull it off. However, over the
past few months I have been doing quite a bit of kit building and
actually managed to build a nicely working K2. This has given me the
confidence to start building from schematics.
I spent the day yesterday going through the current 2n2-40+ schematics
that appear on the Yahoo! groups website. BTW, the current Bill of
Materials PDF does not match the current schematics.. there appear to
have been many changes made. So I sat down with the schematics and,
part by part, made my own bill of materials and have started ordering
parts. I will likely begin slobbering early next week.
However, I do have a question regarding trimmer capacitors. Do I have
to match the capacitance ranges exactly or can I use those with a
slightly wider capacitance range? For example, the 11-70 pF trimmers.
Could these be 6.0-70 pF instead? I am having difficulties finding
trimmers with the exact ranges shown on the schematics.
Thanks
--
JT Croteau, N1ESE - Manchester, NH (FN42gx)
|
3671|3670|2007-10-25 14:32:38|Lee Mairs (SAG)|Re: Starting my build soon!|The only problem with wider range capacitor substitution is that the tuning may be a
bit sharper since there is more delta C per degree of revolution of your tuning
stick. I didn't worry much about it when I built my rig and it was no problem.
Congrats on starting the 2N2-40. Completing this rig was the high light of fifty
years in amateur radio!
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
NNN0IOF
JT Croteau wrote:
> I've been wanting to build a 2N2-40 for quite some time but never
> thought I had the skills to actually pull it off. However, over the
> past few months I have been doing quite a bit of kit building and
> actually managed to build a nicely working K2. This has given me the
> confidence to start building from schematics.
>
> I spent the day yesterday going through the current 2n2-40+ schematics
> that appear on the Yahoo! groups website. BTW, the current Bill of
> Materials PDF does not match the current schematics.. there appear to
> have been many changes made. So I sat down with the schematics and,
> part by part, made my own bill of materials and have started ordering
> parts. I will likely begin slobbering early next week.
>
> However, I do have a question regarding trimmer capacitors. Do I have
> to match the capacitance ranges exactly or can I use those with a
> slightly wider capacitance range? For example, the 11-70 pF trimmers.
> Could these be 6.0-70 pF instead? I am having difficulties finding
> trimmers with the exact ranges shown on the schematics.
>
> Thanks
>
JT Croteau wrote:
> I've been wanting to build a 2N2-40 for quite some time but never
> thought I had the skills to actually pull it off. However, over the
> past few months I have been doing quite a bit of kit building and
> actually managed to build a nicely working K2. This has given me the
> confidence to start building from schematics.
>
> I spent the day yesterday going through the current 2n2-40+ schematics
> that appear on the Yahoo! groups website. BTW, the current Bill of
> Materials PDF does not match the current schematics..
True...those BOM are probably before we started adding other goodies to the rig.
there appear to
> have been many changes made. So I sat down with the schematics and,
> part by part, made my own bill of materials and have started ordering
> parts. I will likely begin slobbering early next week.
>
> However, I do have a question regarding trimmer capacitors. Do I have
> to match the capacitance ranges exactly or can I use those with a
> slightly wider capacitance range? For example, the 11-70 pF trimmers.
> Could these be 6.0-70 pF instead? I am having difficulties finding
> trimmers with the exact ranges shown on the schematics.
The trimmers are not the least bit critical. Use what you have or can get that
are nominally the same range +/- 10 percent or whatever.
GL with the building JT.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks guys.
How about the 4.915 crystals? I have 4.9152 MHz crystals that are
matched to within 10 Hz.
--
JT Croteau, N1ESE - Manchester, NH (FN42gx)
|
3674|3670|2007-10-25 15:38:05|Jim Kortge|Re: Starting my build soon!|JT Croteau wrote:
> Thanks guys.
>
> How about the 4.915 crystals? I have 4.9152 MHz crystals that are
> matched to within 10 Hz.
>
Those are what you want. Are those some that I matched and sold several years ago?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
On 10/25/07, Jim Kortge <
jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
> Are those some that I matched and sold several years ago?
Don't think so, I bought these from Diz the Toroid King.
Getting back to the trimmer caps for a minute.. for the 11 to 70 pF
TC's which one of the following would I be better off going with, 6
to 70 or 12 to 60? Mouser has a pretty limited selection of trimmer
caps but they have everything else I need.
Thanks
--
JT Croteau, N1ESE - Manchester, NH (FN42gx)
Get the cheapest. It seems to me that I bought mine at Dan's Small Parts. It was a
PITA because he only accepted a check via mail rather than Paypal or a credit card
over the phone.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
JT Croteau wrote:
> On 10/25/07, Jim Kortge <jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
>> Are those some that I matched and sold several years ago?
>
> Don't think so, I bought these from Diz the Toroid King.
>
> Getting back to the trimmer caps for a minute.. for the 11 to 70 pF
> TC's which one of the following would I be better off going with, 6
> to 70 or 12 to 60? Mouser has a pretty limited selection of trimmer
> caps but they have everything else I need.
>
> Thanks
>
But both values are the same price @ 24 cents/ea. ;-)
On 10/25/07, Lee Mairs (SAG) <lmairs@sagcorp.com> wrote:
> Get the cheapest. It seems to me that I bought mine at Dan's Small Parts. It was a
> PITA because he only accepted a check via mail rather than Paypal or a credit card
> over the phone.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY/8
>
>
>
> JT Croteau wrote:
> > On 10/25/07, Jim Kortge <jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
> >> Are those some that I matched and sold several years ago?
> >
> > Don't think so, I bought these from Diz the Toroid King.
> >
> > Getting back to the trimmer caps for a minute.. for the 11 to 70 pF
> > TC's which one of the following would I be better off going with, 6
> > to 70 or 12 to 60? Mouser has a pretty limited selection of trimmer
> > caps but they have everything else I need.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
--
JT Croteau, N1ESE - Manchester, NH (FN42gx)
Then get a set of each! At a quarter a piece it will be a worthwhile addition to
your junk box and prevent another trip to the Mouser well.
73 de Lee
JT Croteau wrote:
> But both values are the same price @ 24 cents/ea. ;-)
>
> On 10/25/07, Lee Mairs (SAG) <lmairs@sagcorp.com> wrote:
>> Get the cheapest. It seems to me that I bought mine at Dan's Small Parts. It was a
>> PITA because he only accepted a check via mail rather than Paypal or a credit card
>> over the phone.
>> 73 de Lee
>> KM4YY/8
>>
>>
>>
>> JT Croteau wrote:
>>> On 10/25/07, Jim Kortge <jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
>>>> Are those some that I matched and sold several years ago?
>>> Don't think so, I bought these from Diz the Toroid King.
>>>
>>> Getting back to the trimmer caps for a minute.. for the 11 to 70 pF
>>> TC's which one of the following would I be better off going with, 6
>>> to 70 or 12 to 60? Mouser has a pretty limited selection of trimmer
>>> caps but they have everything else I need.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
JT,
If you don't mind. May I have a copy of your bill of materials? It's
going to be a little while before I can get to building my 2n2-40 but
I start getting parts ready for it now.
Thanks Tiana, KE5ODX
|
3680|3670|2007-10-25 19:42:41|Jim Kortge|Re: Starting my build soon!|JT Croteau wrote:
> On 10/25/07, Jim Kortge <jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
>> Are those some that I matched and sold several years ago?
>
> Don't think so, I bought these from Diz the Toroid King.
>
> Getting back to the trimmer caps for a minute.. for the 11 to 70 pF
> TC's which one of the following would I be better off going with, 6
> to 70
Get these 6-70 pF version. You need the capacitance at the higher value to tune
things properly.
or 12 to 60? Mouser has a pretty limited selection of trimmer
> caps but they have everything else I need.
Yes, I've noticed that.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
On 10/25/07, Jim Kortge <
jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
> Get these 6-70 pF version. You need the capacitance at the higher
> value to tune things properly.
My only reservation with the 6-70 pF version is that it has 3-legs and
I'm not sure what the third leg is for. Sorry if I'm being a pain,
I'm just new to all of this and a little apprehensive when it comes to
finding substitutes for things.
--
JT Croteau, N1ESE - Manchester, NH (FN42gx)
No worries here JT. I actually prefer the ones with three legs. Two
of the legs are common to each other and are usually the two you want
to solder to the PCB board. It makes for a very nice stable connection.
Typically, the part of the TC that you use to adjust the capacitor is
connected to one of the legs (2 of the legs usually in the case of the
three legged variety). Make sure when you orient the TC that "the
adjustment side" is on the ground plane. That way when you adjust the
TC, that you are much less likely to "interfere" with the circuit with
lots of parasitic capacitance from your hand, adjustment tool, etc.
If this doesn't make sense, it will when you start building and think
about how you orient the capacitors.
Hope this helps.
72.
Jeff - K8GD
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "JT Croteau" wrote:
>
> On 10/25/07, Jim Kortge wrote:
> > Get these 6-70 pF version. You need the capacitance at the higher
> > value to tune things properly.
>
> My only reservation with the 6-70 pF version is that it has 3-legs and
> I'm not sure what the third leg is for. Sorry if I'm being a pain,
> I'm just new to all of this and a little apprehensive when it comes to
> finding substitutes for things.
>
> --
> JT Croteau, N1ESE - Manchester, NH (FN42gx)
>
I have some single-sided 1-ounce copper on 0.012" epoxy fiberglass
panels in my "junk box". Would this stuff be too thin to use as the
base for my 2n2 rig? I like the stuff because it is easy to cut.
i should be able to start building soon.
Thanks
--
JT Croteau, N1ESE - Manchester, NH (FN42gx)
|
3684|3683|2007-10-29 22:19:29|Jim Kortge|Re: Is this stuff too thin?|JT Croteau wrote:
> I have some single-sided 1-ounce copper on 0.012" epoxy fiberglass
> panels in my "junk box". Would this stuff be too thin to use as the
> base for my 2n2 rig? I like the stuff because it is easy to cut.
It should be fine JT except it might be too flexible. I guess if it were me, I
would attach the substrate to a piece of plywood to give it more strength.
Electrically, it will be fine.
>
> i should be able to start building soon.
OK....we're waiting! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
On 10/29/07, Jim Kortge <
jokortge@prodigy.net> wrote:
> OK....we're waiting! :-)
It should be worth the wait. I will be masking my very mediocre
soldering skills by enclosing the project in a very stylish and unique
case. Only one person has seen the teaser pics so far. ;-)
--
JT Croteau, N1ESE - Manchester, NH (FN42gx)
Can anyone tell me by component number, for example C1, C14, C79,
etc. what types of capacitors (NP0, mylar, tantalum, surface mount,
etc.) to use when building the 2N2-30?
I'm not able to deduce from the schematic or the article what type to
use except for the electrolytics and trimmers, which are clear to me.
It's been said in a non-2n2-30 thread, that all the special types are
identified in the schematic, and I can see some places where
the "plates" as drawn in the schematic seem closer together or that
one plate is thicker than another, but I'm not sure and can't seem to
make any sense of it.
The construction write-up and photos have been of some help, but I'd
like to get this right as I'll have my hands full debugging my
construction and would like to rule out using the wrong capacitor
type from the beginning.
Many thanks,
Steve -- K6UX
|
3687|3686|2007-11-30 13:23:29|k9qb|Re: 2N2-30 capacitor types|--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "k6ux2003"
wrote:
>
> Can anyone tell me by component number, for example C1, C14, C79,
> etc. what types of capacitors (NP0, mylar, tantalum, surface mount,
> etc.) to use when building the 2N2-30?
>
> I'm not able to deduce from the schematic or the article what type
to
> use except for the electrolytics and trimmers, which are clear to
me.
>
> It's been said in a non-2n2-30 thread, that all the special types
are
> identified in the schematic, and I can see some places where
> the "plates" as drawn in the schematic seem closer together or that
> one plate is thicker than another, but I'm not sure and can't seem
to
> make any sense of it.
>
I referred back to the 2N2-20 parts list that I've been working from,
and, except for the "bypass" caps, all but one are NPO ceramic...
The one exception is a "plastic" cap.
Most of the .01, .1, and, .22 ufd ceramics are used as "bypass" caps
and are not so critical that they need to be NPO.
Mike, WA5PSEHello Jim...
I've returned to working on the 2N220 and I'm just having a devil of
a time!!!
I just can't get the thing to go...I'm beginning to wonder if
there's some info I'm missing.
Have reviewed the thread with KC0YQI back in February and have
checked the various signal levels accordingly.
My quandry seems to center around the vfo injection level to the Tx
mixer...
Mine is around 300mv, BUT, a check of the injection to the Rx mixer
shows it to be around 800mv!
Now looking at T2, I see the 3 turn secondary going to the Rx mixer
and that's where I'm seeing the 800mv...and, the 1 turn sec. going
to the Tx mixer with the correspondingly lower signal...
What's all that level needed for in the receiver?
This just ain't making sense to me (sorry about the ain't, I'm from
Oklahoma!)
My plan is to swap these around to see what happens, unless I hear
from you first...
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3689|3688|2007-12-13 10:24:52|Jim Kortge|Re: Tx issues with my 2N220...|wa5pse wrote:
> Hello Jim...
Greetings Mike,
>
> I've returned to working on the 2N220 and I'm just having a devil of
> a time!!!
Sorry to hear that.
>
> I just can't get the thing to go...I'm beginning to wonder if
> there's some info I'm missing.
maybe, maybe not, but I'll bet we can figure it out.
>
> Have reviewed the thread with KC0YQI back in February and have
> checked the various signal levels accordingly.
>
> My quandry seems to center around the vfo injection level to the Tx
> mixer...
>
> Mine is around 300mv, BUT, a check of the injection to the Rx mixer
> shows it to be around 800mv!
Those numbers sound about right. I'll pull out my 2N2/20 schematic here in a few
minutes and check. OK, mine shows the signal level off of the 3-turn link at 870
mv rms, and 300 mv rms off the 1-turn link. Off hand, I'd say you were close enough.
>
> Now looking at T2, I see the 3 turn secondary going to the Rx mixer
> and that's where I'm seeing the 800mv...and, the 1 turn sec. going
> to the Tx mixer with the correspondingly lower signal...
>
> What's all that level needed for in the receiver?
The signal going to the Rx mixer is driving the LO port, which takes a fair
amount of signal to forward bias and turn on the diodes in the mixer. On the
transmit side, the Tx LO is driving that mixer's LO port. The signal coming from
the VFO is driving the RF port of the Tx mixer, which needs a lower signal level
to keep from over driving it and causing spurious outputs. Ideally, we want
about 0 dBm or 225 mv rms driving the Tx RF port to keep from overdriving it.
There are pads on both the Rx mixer LO port and the Tx mixer RF port to set
those signals to optimal levels.
>
> This just ain't making sense to me (sorry about the ain't, I'm from
> Oklahoma!)
It's the kind of port that is the issue. LO ports needs +7 to +10 dBm to make
the mixer work correctly. RF ports can only handle up to about 0 dBm, otherwise
they get driven too hard and start producing spurious outputs that we don't want.
>
> My plan is to swap these around to see what happens, unless I hear
> from you first...
I hope this got to you in time. My guess is that there is problem somewhere
else that we haven't found yet. Are you getting any output from the rig at all
on the transmit side? Is the receiver working OK as far as you can tell?
72 and TTUL,
Jim, K8IQY
Hello Jim and the group and thank you for approving my request of
joining this group.
I decided to build a 2N2/20 for I feel it will provide a lot of
satisfaction and lessons learned while building it.
Manhattan building technique is something I never tried before but I
reckon it's gonna grow on me quick especially when it comes to
prototyping.
I have downloaded the schematics and a layout plan from Jim's site. Is
there any way one could purchase a parts kit for 2N2/20 parts (
including manhattan pads ) ?
p.s. paying through paypal would be a bonus
73 de Adrian, YO6SSW ( ex YO8SSW )
|
3691|3688|2007-12-14 07:27:01|wa5pse|Re: Tx issues with my 2N220...|Time for an update...
Last evening, I dove back in again and found that I was running out of
capacitance at TC5....WHY...I missed installing the cap at C19.
Due to the use of the 80 pf trimmers I got from Dan's SP, I only needed
82 pf there.
After solving that issue, my signal levels came up to 1v rms RxVFO and
180mv rms TxVFO...
Your last message...
"OK, mine shows the signal level off of the 3-turn link at 870
mv rms, and 300 mv rms off the 1-turn link. Off hand, I'd say you were
close enough."
So, I suspected a problem with T2, removed it and rewound it again at
16:3:1 per instructions...The result was the same.
So my levels are considerably different from yours and I still didn't
have the Tx drive I need...
So, I rewound T2 yet a third time, making the secondary 3 turns and 2
turns.
This yielded 700mv rms RxVFO and 500mv rms TxVFO...
Which resulted in output to the antenna at about 18v rms max...
At about a 60-70% setting of TR1, I get 15v rms and that's where I left
it.
Checking the signal at the antenna with the scope, the signal is a very
clean looking sine wave...
I know that's not a very good indication of spectral purity, but, I'm
thinking it will have to do.
The receive seems to be working OK, but, could stand to be louder.
I'm thinking I may have to live with this and finish the rig.
Should I consider changing R68 or R69, or, just leave well enough alone?
Mike
|
3692|3688|2007-12-14 10:05:58|Jim Kortge|Re: Tx issues with my 2N220...|wa5pse wrote:
> Time for an update...
>
> Last evening, I dove back in again and found that I was running out of
> capacitance at TC5....WHY...I missed installing the cap at C19.
> Due to the use of the 80 pf trimmers I got from Dan's SP, I only needed
> 82 pf there.
>
> After solving that issue, my signal levels came up to 1v rms RxVFO and
> 180mv rms TxVFO...
>
> Your last message...
> "OK, mine shows the signal level off of the 3-turn link at 870
> mv rms, and 300 mv rms off the 1-turn link. Off hand, I'd say you were
> close enough."
>
> So, I suspected a problem with T2, removed it and rewound it again at
> 16:3:1 per instructions...The result was the same.
>
> So my levels are considerably different from yours and I still didn't
> have the Tx drive I need...
>
> So, I rewound T2 yet a third time, making the secondary 3 turns and 2
> turns.
> This yielded 700mv rms RxVFO and 500mv rms TxVFO...
> Which resulted in output to the antenna at about 18v rms max...
That's well over 5-watts!
>
> At about a 60-70% setting of TR1, I get 15v rms and that's where I left
> it.
About 4.5-watts or something near that right?
> Checking the signal at the antenna with the scope, the signal is a very
> clean looking sine wave...
> I know that's not a very good indication of spectral purity, but, I'm
> thinking it will have to do.
It's probably OK.
>
> The receive seems to be working OK, but, could stand to be louder.
Any chance that one or more of the tuned circuits are not tuning up correctly?
Do you get two peaks as the trimmer is rotated 360 degrees on every tuned
circuit, including the VFO driver? The have been a lot of instances of rigs
built where the combination of toroid turns and parallel capacitance fell short
of that needed to get to resonance and beyond.
>
> I'm thinking I may have to live with this and finish the rig.
Well at least for the time being.
>
> Should I consider changing R68 or R69, or, just leave well enough alone?
No, I'd leave that alone for the moment.
>
>
> Mike
72 and thanks for the update Mike, progress is being made,
Jim, K8IQY
brainsquash wrote:
> Hello Jim
Hello Adrian, YO6SSW
and the group and thank you for approving my request of
> joining this group.
Happy to do that, thanks for joining us.
> I decided to build a 2N2/20 for I feel it will provide a lot of
> satisfaction and lessons learned while building it.
I think I and other would agree with that statement. :-)
> Manhattan building technique is something I never tried before but I
> reckon it's gonna grow on me quick especially when it comes to
> prototyping.
I find it the best and easiest way to prototype RF circuits and the like. Wes,
W7ZOI thinks it is a bit overdone, but I believe the organization of the
circuitry lends itself to easier troubleshooting and better system performance.
> I have downloaded the schematics and a layout plan from Jim's site. Is
> there any way one could purchase a parts kit for 2N2/20 parts (
> including manhattan pads ) ?
Nobody has ever done a 2N2/20 parts kit. There were some group builds of the
2N2/40 and probably several of those parts kits in boxes and shelves that have
never been used. I did 300+ crystal filter sets for those builds and I know
there aren't that many 2N2/40 rigs out in radio land. A conservative count might
be 50 total, so I'm guessing lots of parts kits sitting idle.
>
> p.s. paying through paypal would be a bonus
I guess that works well for most international transactions. I don't have an
account to receive nor send money myself. Maybe others do.
72 Adrian, Happy Holidays to you and your family,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
> Any chance that one or more of the tuned circuits are not tuning up
correctly?
> Do you get two peaks as the trimmer is rotated 360 degrees on every
tuned
> circuit, including the VFO driver? The have been a lot of instances
of rigs
> built where the combination of toroid turns and parallel
capacitance fell short
> of that needed to get to resonance and beyond.
Because Brad (WA5PSA) and I bought the trimmer cap deal from Dan's
SP, (which was advertised as being 80pf), I've been mating caps up to
each trimmer to get the desired results.
I just happened to have missed the one at the VFO output...It wasn't
a big deal with the receive, but, became a big deal when I tried to
get the Tx going!
I'm puzzled at the levels that I'm seeing with T2 wound per your
design. It doesn't make sense that I should see 5 times the voltage
on the 3 turn side as on the 1 turn side.
Ah well, at least I have finally broke out of that rut I was in.
Mike
I'm noting recent success with a 2n2-20, which is what am thinkg about
building. Which files describe the latest schematic, layout, parts
for the rig? I'm thinking maybe these have seen several revisions.
Also, has anywone successfully built a variant for 17m?
73, Curt KB5JO
|
3696|3695|2007-12-15 15:09:12|wa5pse|Re: 2n220 ( or 17 ) Question(s)|--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "russellhulett"
wrote:
>
> I'm noting recent success with a 2n2-20, which is what am thinkg
about
> building. Which files describe the latest schematic, layout, parts
> for the rig? I'm thinking maybe these have seen several revisions.
> Also, has anywone successfully built a variant for 17m?
>
> 73, Curt KB5JO
>
Hi Curt,
The 2N220 link at Jim's k8iqy.com site in the qrp section has the
latest schematic...
Build according to those schematics (the whole transceiver is broken
down into 7 pages)and you shouldn't have any trouble.
I subbed some parts and had to do some creative matching of components
to make those parts work...
Aside from that, the only real departure I had was to add a turn to
one side of the T2 secondary to get enough Tx drive.
I'm not so sure the money I saved was worth the extra time I invested
solving the resulting issues.
Just remember, it's a fairly challenging project, but, as Jim
says, "it's like eating an elephant, you do it one bite at a time!"
Mike, WA5PSEThough this may be heresy, I'm wondering about the status of the 2n2-xx
circuit board? I think this was discussed at a recent hamfest out west,
but I lost track of the expected date for publication.
As much as I like the idea of a completely homebrew outfit, I'd like to
try something a bit easier to figure out. I've built homebrew
transmitters and receivers in my daze, so a start with a circuit board
with proven layout sounds like a good compromise.
72/73 de n8xx Hg
|
3698|3695|2007-12-15 15:53:17|sigcom@juno.com|Re: 2n2-xx Circuit Board?|According to Jim's presentation at Pacificon this past October the NorCal 2N2/XX -kit- "Expected availability is next spring" (2008).
This is not simply a PCB but will be a complete kit including all parts and punched and powder-coated cabinet.
There was no mention or the PCB being available as a separate item. My opinion is that it will not be.
73.......Steve Smith WB6TNL
-- Hank Greeb <
n8xx@arrl.org> wrote:
Though this may be heresy, I'm wondering about the status of the 2n2-xx
circuit board? I think this was discussed at a recent hamfest out west,
but I lost track of the expected date for publication.
As much as I like the idea of a completely homebrew outfit, I'd like to
try something a bit easier to figure out. I've built homebrew
transmitters and receivers in my daze, so a start with a circuit board
with proven layout sounds like a good compromise.
72/73 de n8xx Hg
_____________________________________________________________
Great pay, great benefits, rewarding. Click for information on a healthcare career.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3oH0ZseP9wxRNTbvGjBLRA5MKhSe8CQsrZfBHX8DBmSCn9gZ/Hi Mike,
What was your parts bill? I'm estimating $70-90, not considering what
I may already have on-hand. The most costly single item was the 10T
tuning Pot, so may start with single-turn until after build & test is
finished.
Eating the elephant may be "one bite at a time" but buying the
elephant still needs to be done one time to avoid excessive shipping
charges.
BTW, what was rig performance compared to something like an SW+ or a
Norcal 40A?
73, Curt
|
3700|3695|2007-12-15 17:45:22|Howard Kraus|Re: 2n220 ( or 17 ) Question(s)|Hi Curt,
I built (2) 2N2/40's and own a NorCal 40A. I find the
transmitters in both rigs to be equal, not much of a
surprise there. The receivers in both rigs are very
good, and I would give the edge to the 2N2/40 due to
its variable bandwidth filter. Sensitivity and
selectivity in both rigs are near equal, frequency
coverage in the 2N2/40 is better than the '40A, though
the NorCal can be mod'ed for increased coverage.
I would carry the '40A in my backpack first (and
have!) due to its reduced weight/footprint, and I also
favor it because of its keyer/counter option. It would
be the rig I go bicycle mobile with though I would
prefer more power output. The 2N2/40 is the rig I like
to cozy up with at home though.
I've used both rigs for QRP contesting and they both
hold their own in that department.
It's hard to go wrong with either rig, I wouldn't part
with either one.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- russellhulett <
rhulett1@comcast.net> wrote:
> Hi Mike,
>
> What was your parts bill? I'm estimating $70-90,
> not considering what
> I may already have on-hand. The most costly single
> item was the 10T
> tuning Pot, so may start with single-turn until
> after build & test is
> finished.
>
> Eating the elephant may be "one bite at a time" but
> buying the
> elephant still needs to be done one time to avoid
> excessive shipping
> charges.
>
> BTW, what was rig performance compared to something
> like an SW+ or a
> Norcal 40A?
>
> 73, Curt
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "russellhulett"
wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> What was your parts bill? I'm estimating $70-90, not considering
what
That's probably pretty close. Brad (WA5PSA) and I co-op'd the
purchase of most of the parts and I didn't keep real close track of
what we did spend.
We purchased excess of several parts, particularly the small caps,
inductors, toroids, and resistors...partly because of the 10 pc qty
pricing at Mouser's and partly because we wanted to put back some
stock for experimenting.
> I may already have on-hand. The most costly single item was the
10T
> tuning Pot, so may start with single-turn until after build & test
is
> finished.
I have found lots of 10 turn pots at hamfests for as little $.50
apiece...I've acquired a few, again, because I want to build more
projects.
The 10 turn pots don't have to be the same value as the published
schematic, just as long as you set up the divider resistors to allow
the pot to deliver the same range of voltage to the varactor.
>
> Eating the elephant may be "one bite at a time" but buying the
> elephant still needs to be done one time to avoid excessive
shipping
> charges.
We agonized over that, but, you just can't get everything from only
one source...you're gonna eat some shipping.
Just shop around, there are lots of sources to consider, but, just
try and consolidate the best you can.
>
> BTW, what was rig performance compared to something like an SW+ or
a
> Norcal 40A?
I have only just got mine delivering output and haven't had a chance
to get any signal reports.
However, I can tell you that the 2N220 will give you a "full qrp
gallon" (5W) and my SW+ won't.
The receive is about the same, maybe a little cleaner...The SW+ and
the 2N220 are both superhets with nearly identical sound, at least
to me, anyway.
The neat thing about these rigs is you really do BUILD em
yourself...those other ones with the professional, doubles sided,
plated-thru, FRP boards and the perfectly packaged parts bags, and
the extremely well written assembly manuals, are in my book,
just "solder practice"
Substitute a few parts like Brad and I have done and it gets even
more exciting and rewarding...oh, and a little scary too!
Mike, WA5PSEHank Greeb wrote:
> Though this may be heresy, I'm wondering about the status of the 2n2-xx
> circuit board?
It is coming along. We are on the 2nd (and hopefully final) revision and I've
got 3 of the latest boards in my possession. I'm going to build one up as a
means of taking the photos needed to complete the assembly manual ASAP. The
manual is written, but lacks the photos that I want in there.
I think this was discussed at a recent hamfest out west,
> but I lost track of the expected date for publication.
The target for having the 2N2/XX kit available is sometime in the spring, and
that is as close as we can predict at the moment. Still lots of work to be done
before we are ready to go into kitting, nothing major, just all of the nitty
details that have to be right so there aren't any "gotchas" in the final
product. I want it that way, and so does NorCal. The board is only available
with the kit, it won't be sold by itself.
>
> As much as I like the idea of a completely homebrew outfit, I'd like to
> try something a bit easier to figure out. I've built homebrew
> transmitters and receivers in my daze, so a start with a circuit board
> with proven layout sounds like a good compromise.
I'm confident that those who purchase a 2N2/XX rig on any of the three bands it
will be offered on with be very happy with the rig and its performance. This
kitting effort was to take the best features of the 2N2/40+, 2N2/30, and 2N2/20
and create a PCB that could be used for any band and be repeatable and reliable
and predictable in its performance. What I've seen so far is that we will exceed
that goal. Stay tuned.......
Jim, K8IQY
PS...my Pacificon presentation is available on the NorCal web site for those who
would like to see what I talked about.
And if you want to see pictures of the rig check out the pictures I took at
Pacificon on the NorCal site.
Bob
wb6kwt
Jim Kortge <
jokortge@dialup4less.com> wrote: Hank Greeb wrote:
> Though this may be heresy, I'm wondering about the status of the 2n2-xx
> circuit board?
It is coming along. We are on the 2nd (and hopefully final) revision and I've
got 3 of the latest boards in my possession. I'm going to build one up as a
means of taking the photos needed to complete the assembly manual ASAP. The
manual is written, but lacks the photos that I want in there.
I think this was discussed at a recent hamfest out west,
> but I lost track of the expected date for publication.
The target for having the 2N2/XX kit available is sometime in the spring, and
that is as close as we can predict at the moment. Still lots of work to be done
before we are ready to go into kitting, nothing major, just all of the nitty
details that have to be right so there aren't any "gotchas" in the final
product. I want it that way, and so does NorCal. The board is only available
with the kit, it won't be sold by itself.
>
> As much as I like the idea of a completely homebrew outfit, I'd like to
> try something a bit easier to figure out. I've built homebrew
> transmitters and receivers in my daze, so a start with a circuit board
> with proven layout sounds like a good compromise.
I'm confident that those who purchase a 2N2/XX rig on any of the three bands it
will be offered on with be very happy with the rig and its performance. This
kitting effort was to take the best features of the 2N2/40+, 2N2/30, and 2N2/20
and create a PCB that could be used for any band and be repeatable and reliable
and predictable in its performance. What I've seen so far is that we will exceed
that goal. Stay tuned.......
Jim, K8IQY
PS...my Pacificon presentation is available on the NorCal web site for those who
would like to see what I talked about.
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I just got the 2N2/20 I've been working on, (off and on), for the last
15 months ready to do some qso'g.
The xtal oscillators are all dialed in, the output dialed down to 5W,
and, the sidetone resistor adjusted for more volume.
We've gotten about 6 in of snow this evening and are expecting a few
more...So, will likely play hooky from church in the morning and as
soon as 20m starts to open up, will see what the thing will do.
Will be concentrating on 14.06 to 14.065 and would be delighted to qso
another 2N2/20 if anyone is so inclined to look for me.
Hpe to CU Thr...72, Mike WA5PSE
|
3705|3704|2007-12-16 09:22:07|russellhulett|Re: A new 2N2/20 ready for action...|I don't own a 2N2 (yet), and XYL won't let me play hooky from
church. But will sure listen for you/give a call with the K-1 this
afternoon about 2000 UTC from 14060-14065 mHz.
72, Curt KB5JO
|
3706|3695|2007-12-16 11:11:21|Howard Kraus|Re: 2n2-xx Circuit Board?|Jim,
What are the basics on the kit? Will it be a parts
and board offering, will there be an enclosure
available? Plug-in band modules?!
72 es Happy Holidays
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- Jim Kortge <
jokortge@dialup4less.com> wrote:
> Hank Greeb wrote:
> > Though this may be heresy, I'm wondering about the
> status of the 2n2-xx
> > circuit board?
>
> It is coming along. We are on the 2nd (and hopefully
> final) revision and I've
> got 3 of the latest boards in my possession. I'm
> going to build one up as a
> means of taking the photos needed to complete the
> assembly manual ASAP. The
> manual is written, but lacks the photos that I want
> in there.
>
> I think this was discussed at a recent hamfest
> out west,
> > but I lost track of the expected date for
> publication.
>
> The target for having the 2N2/XX kit available is
> sometime in the spring, and
> that is as close as we can predict at the moment.
> Still lots of work to be done
> before we are ready to go into kitting, nothing
> major, just all of the nitty
> details that have to be right so there aren't any
> "gotchas" in the final
> product. I want it that way, and so does NorCal. The
> board is only available
> with the kit, it won't be sold by itself.
> >
> > As much as I like the idea of a completely
> homebrew outfit, I'd like to
> > try something a bit easier to figure out. I've
> built homebrew
> > transmitters and receivers in my daze, so a start
> with a circuit board
> > with proven layout sounds like a good compromise.
>
> I'm confident that those who purchase a 2N2/XX rig
> on any of the three bands it
> will be offered on with be very happy with the rig
> and its performance. This
> kitting effort was to take the best features of the
> 2N2/40+, 2N2/30, and 2N2/20
> and create a PCB that could be used for any band and
> be repeatable and reliable
> and predictable in its performance. What I've seen
> so far is that we will exceed
> that goal. Stay tuned.......
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS...my Pacificon presentation is available on the
> NorCal web site for those who
> would like to see what I talked about.
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "russellhulett"
wrote:
>
> I don't own a 2N2 (yet), and XYL won't let me play hooky from
> church. But will sure listen for you/give a call with the K-1 this
> afternoon about 2000 UTC from 14060-14065 mHz.
>
> 72, Curt KB5JO
>
Thanx Curt...I'll definitely give it a try during that time window.
So far, the band has not been much good...few signals and lots of
qsb...maybe things will settle down by then.
Mike--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "russellhulett"
wrote:
>
> I don't own a 2N2 (yet), and XYL won't let me play hooky from
> church. But will sure listen for you/give a call with the K-1 this
> afternoon about 2000 UTC from 14060-14065 mHz.
>
> 72, Curt KB5JO
>
Well Curt,
I heard you, but you must not have heard me...I tried, believe me.
You were down there pretty good and I'm not surprised you didn't hear
me.
Thank you anyway for trying.
MikeI'll be listening and calling off & on all day today 14.060-14.065 in
between putting up decorations for the XYL. My next call will be
about 2200 UTC. What type antenna? I'm using 88' multiband doublet
QRP, also tried calling/listening QRO with vertical.
|
3710|3704|2007-12-16 17:49:37|wa5pse|Re: A new 2N2/20 ready for action...|--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "russellhulett"
wrote:
>
> I'll be listening and calling off & on all day today 14.060-14.065
in
> between putting up decorations for the XYL. My next call will be
> about 2200 UTC. What type antenna? I'm using 88' multiband doublet
> QRP, also tried calling/listening QRO with vertical.
>
I missed you at 2200, sorry...
After the snow stopped, went out to clean off the cars and make a way
to the road so that we could make a run to the grocery store.
Just got back and am resting before dinner.
Let's try again some time when the band is working a little better.
MikeHoward Kraus wrote:
> Jim,
Hi Howard,
>
> What are the basics on the kit? Will it be a parts
> and board offering, will there be an enclosure
> available?
Yes to all. The kit will be complete with all components,PCB, and case that is
ready to go. The only item not settled yet is whether there will be a frequency
readout of some kind and if so, what will it be. Several options are being explored.
Plug-in band modules?!
No, the rig will be available in 20, 30, and 40 meter versions, but monobanders,
not multiband. Too difficult to do multiband without plug in modules, and I
don't like those. Just a personal take on the subject. I'd rather have a good
monoband rig and build transverters for the other bands.
Speaking of transverters, the thought popped into my head the other evening
about looking at the 4017 transverter design to see what would be necessary to
have something like that available for 15 meters. Using a 30 meter rig for the
driver and an 11 MHz transverter offset puts the 30 meter rig on 15 meters. If
the tuning range on the 30 meter rig were to be expanded to 100 KHz of coverage,
that would translate to 100 KHz of coverage on 15. 21.1 - 21.2 MHz might be
quite useful. The design could become the "3015 Transverter (SM)", using
virtually the same design as the 4017.
72 and TTUL,
Jim, K8IQY
Bob Miller wrote:
> And if you want to see pictures of the rig check out the pictures I took at
> Pacificon on the NorCal site.
>
> Bob
> wb6kwt
Thanks Bobby,
I forgot that you took photos of the rig.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
Two parts listed at KitdandParts. Which one is correct for the 2n2-20?
Curt
|
3714|3713|2007-12-16 21:17:19|Jim Kortge|Re: 43-BN2402 or 61-BN2402?|russellhulett wrote:
> Two parts listed at KitdandParts. Which one is correct for the 2n2-20?
>
> Curt
>
>
43 type material, therefore, 43-BN2402. You can also use a ft37-43 toroid in
this locations too. No change in performance.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I look forward to this. One request, any chance of an
RTTY friendly rig? That's reaching I'm sure, but
would be desireable to some.
72
Howard K2UD
--- Jim Kortge <
jokortge@dialup4less.com> wrote:
> Howard Kraus wrote:
> > Jim,
>
> Hi Howard,
>
> >
> > What are the basics on the kit? Will it be a
> parts
> > and board offering, will there be an enclosure
> > available?
>
> Yes to all. The kit will be complete with all
> components,PCB, and case that is
> ready to go. The only item not settled yet is
> whether there will be a frequency
> readout of some kind and if so, what will it be.
> Several options are being explored.
>
> Plug-in band modules?!
> No, the rig will be available in 20, 30, and 40
> meter versions, but monobanders,
> not multiband. Too difficult to do multiband without
> plug in modules, and I
> don't like those. Just a personal take on the
> subject. I'd rather have a good
> monoband rig and build transverters for the other
> bands.
>
> Speaking of transverters, the thought popped into my
> head the other evening
> about looking at the 4017 transverter design to see
> what would be necessary to
> have something like that available for 15 meters.
> Using a 30 meter rig for the
> driver and an 11 MHz transverter offset puts the 30
> meter rig on 15 meters. If
> the tuning range on the 30 meter rig were to be
> expanded to 100 KHz of coverage,
> that would translate to 100 KHz of coverage on 15.
> 21.1 - 21.2 MHz might be
> quite useful. The design could become the "3015
> Transverter (SM)", using
> virtually the same design as the 4017.
>
> 72 and TTUL,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hsInstead of using a 10-turn pot for tuning, you might consider using a single
turn pot, then adding a small fine-tuning pot in series with it. Besides
enabling you to tune across the band much faster, a single-turn main tuning
pot allows you to put a pointer on the knob & mark the frequencies on the
front panel. I've used Radio Shack pots for main tuning and they've been
smooth and dependable. I like a band spread of about 1500Hz. for fine
tuning, but that's probably too small for most people.
Denny Payton N9JXY
|
3717|3717|2007-12-17 13:06:07|russellhulett|2n2/20 Mixer, Would NE602 or 612 work?|The ADE-1 is kinda expensive. I have a bunch of the NE602, 612 etc
chips on-hand. Has anyone tried the cheaper alternatives?
Curt
|
3718|3695|2007-12-18 08:05:57|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-xx Circuit Board?|Howard Kraus wrote:
> I look forward to this. One request, any chance of an
> RTTY friendly rig? That's reaching I'm sure, but
> would be desireable to some.
I'm guessing that some sort of additional circuitry could be simply added, much
like the RIT circuitry to do actual FSK of the VFO like we did back in the old
days. A 2N7000 MOSFET with another MV209 varicap for setting the shift amount
and a small coupling cap to the VFO tuned circuit should get the job done. The
VFO is certainly more than stable enough for that kind of service. The 2N2/XX
rigs are far more stable than the old Heath VF1 that I was running on RTTY back
in the 60s. Another way to implement it is to put the additional circuitry on
the Tx LO and pull the crystal oscillator a tad. I think that is how I did RTTY
on 75 and 20 meters with the Central Electronics 20A exciter back then.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
russellhulett wrote:
> The ADE-1 is kinda expensive.
Agreed, especially if you buy them one at a time. Something like $14.95 each. In
quantities of 100 they are $1.99 each.
I have a bunch of the NE602, 612 etc
> chips on-hand. Has anyone tried the cheaper alternatives?
Those could be make to work, but the really good front-end performance of the
rig goes into the toilet. I'd rather see you wind up the toroids and build your
own DBM and SBM, or find some older SBL-1 mixers and use those. An ADE-1 and
SBL-1 have nominally, equivalent performance.
Also, Diz at Kits and Parts has ADE-1 mixers I believe. Something like $5.00 for
a pair of them.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I bought two SCM-1 mixers which the parts list says work same as ADE-
1. They cost less than $5 each. Now for figuring out how to deal
with this SMT part in the Manhattan realm. I suppose a sub-chassis
will be needed, like what my DC20A's keyer chip is atteched to, a
little PCB that you solder SMT chip to and then plug into a DIP
socket. Anyone know where to buy such a thing.
Curt
|
3721|3717|2007-12-18 18:25:57|wa5pse|Re: 2n2/20 Mixer, Would NE602 or 612 work?|--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "russellhulett"
wrote:
>
> I bought two SCM-1 mixers which the parts list says work same as ADE-
> 1. They cost less than $5 each. Now for figuring out how to deal
> with this SMT part in the Manhattan realm. I suppose a sub-chassis
> will be needed, like what my DC20A's keyer chip is atteched to, a
> little PCB that you solder SMT chip to and then plug into a DIP
> socket. Anyone know where to buy such a thing.
>
> Curt
>
Curt,
here's at least a couple ways to go...
One, Fred at FAR circuits already has nifty little headers made up
that has the pads the ADE1 needs and the traces come out to pads big
enough for you to easily make your connections to...
He was set up at the Ft.Wayne hamfest and had a real nice variety of
those little headers just made for Manhattan style construction...
They were also very reasonably priced.
Or, Two, make your own...If you have a dremel or hi speed rotary tool,
get one of those thin cutting wheels and outline a piece of pcb large
enough to solder the ADE1 toand also provide large enough "pinouts" to
solder to by just cutting thru deep enough to penetrate the copper, ...
Then make cuts across that little piece lined up the pins...then
make a cut at a right angle to those cuts, bisecting them right down
the middle, that separates the 2 rows of pins...
This is fairly easily accomplished and it's easy to lay out 3 or 4 at
a time...
Then when you've "bisected" the rows, retrace your outlins and cut the
rest of the way thru, creating 3 or 4 little headers.
Again, you could connect with a real nice gent and get em already made!
Mike--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "russellhulett"
wrote:
>
> I bought two SCM-1 mixers which the parts list says work same as ADE-
> 1. They cost less than $5 each. Now for figuring out how to deal
> with this SMT part in the Manhattan realm. I suppose a sub-chassis
> will be needed, like what my DC20A's keyer chip is atteched to, a
> little PCB that you solder SMT chip to and then plug into a DIP
> socket. Anyone know where to buy such a thing.
>
> Curt
>
I forgot to mention one thing about the ready made SMT headers from
FAR Circuits...
They are substantially larger than what I made with my Dremel and
would have posed a challenge installing them without doing some
creative rearranging of parts to fit them in...
Personally, I like what I made and they were REAL CHEAP!
MikeHi Everyone,
The 2N2-40 is a project I've been wanting to try for ages. I was at
Dayton when K8IQY first showed off his rig. I was oohing and aahing
along with everyone else. Jim sure caused a stir with his project!
Last week I decided to take the plunge. I've done quite a bit of
building and parts hording over the years, so my junk box coughed up
nearly all of the parts needed. Monday I placed a couple orders online
and the remaining parts should be here in a day or two.
I'm excited to get started. I'll be sure to post as I make progress
and I'm happy to know that all of you are here for advice and help if
there are any bumps in the road along the way to getting my rig on the
air.
73,
Tom Frisz N9DD
South Bend, IN
|
3724|3723|2007-12-19 13:49:47|wa5pse|Re: Intro|Hi Tom,
I'm over here in Elkhart and have just finished the major PCB
construction and testing of my 2N2/20.
I bought plenty of extra parts and am now tempted to build the 40m
version.
I think I may sub the extra ADE1's, I have, for the mixers to make
construction a little quicker/easier.
Also, I'm considering breaking the thing up into 2, maybe 3 boards so
that I can stack them and reduce the footprint.
Have been looking for another interested QRP builder/experimenter to
share the hobby with.
It might be fun to have friendly competition/cooperation/progress-
sharing while building these...and,
I'd be happy to show off the 2N2/20 to you...
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3725|3725|2007-12-19 14:35:20|russellhulett|2n2-20 Parts Question|I used the list an older previous post issued to import into the
Mouser BOM. Had to make quite a few changes because of availability,
part number changes, etc.
One remaining question before I submit the order to Mouser has to do
with the 2n2222 transistors. All I can find are PN2222A, which
according to the datasheets is nearly equivalent to the 2n2222. I am
assuming that since this rig was originally designed to use cheap NPN
transistors, the PN2222A will suffice.
Correct???
73 Curt KB5JO
|
3726|3725|2007-12-19 14:58:40|wa5pse|Re: 2n2-20 Parts Question|--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "russellhulett"
wrote:
>
> I used the list an older previous post issued to import into the
> Mouser BOM. Had to make quite a few changes because of availability,
> part number changes, etc.
>
> One remaining question before I submit the order to Mouser has to do
> with the 2n2222 transistors. All I can find are PN2222A, which
> according to the datasheets is nearly equivalent to the 2n2222. I am
> assuming that since this rig was originally designed to use cheap NPN
> transistors, the PN2222A will suffice.
>
> Correct???
>
> 73 Curt KB5JO
>
That's true exceot for the driver transistor...you'll want to use a
2N2222 and a heatsink...Mike--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "wa5pse"
wrote:
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> I'm over here in Elkhart and have just finished the major PCB
> construction and testing of my 2N2/20.
>
> I bought plenty of extra parts and am now tempted to build the 40m
> version.
>
> I think I may sub the extra ADE1's, I have, for the mixers to make
> construction a little quicker/easier.
>
> Also, I'm considering breaking the thing up into 2, maybe 3 boards so
> that I can stack them and reduce the footprint.
>
> Have been looking for another interested QRP builder/experimenter to
> share the hobby with.
>
> It might be fun to have friendly competition/cooperation/progress-
> sharing while building these...and,
> I'd be happy to show off the 2N2/20 to you...
>
> Mike, WA5PSE
>
Hi Mike,
Nice to meet you. I was on 28.400 the other day and KA9WNO mentioned
your call when I told him I was a QRPer and liked building. I thought
to myself "Didn't I see that call on the 2N2 Group?"
Yes, we'll have to meet up sometime. Maybe a local hamfest or
something. Perhaps you can get on 10 meters for a chat? My "main" rig,
an IC-735, is out of commission right now, but I have an HTX-10 on 10
meters, an old Globe Chief, and lots of QRP transceivers to get on the
air with.
I have several SBL-1 mixers and thought about using one in the 2N2/40,
but decided to build it per the schematic first and maybe play later.
Thanks for the hello!
73,
Tom N9DDwa5pse wrote:
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "russellhulett" wrote:
>> I used the list an older previous post issued to import into the
>> Mouser BOM. Had to make quite a few changes because of availability,
>> part number changes, etc.
>>
>> One remaining question before I submit the order to Mouser has to do
>> with the 2n2222 transistors. All I can find are PN2222A, which
>> according to the datasheets is nearly equivalent to the 2n2222. I am
>> assuming that since this rig was originally designed to use cheap NPN
>> transistors, the PN2222A will suffice.
>>
>> Correct???
>>
>> 73 Curt KB5JO
>>
>
> That's true exceot for the driver transistor...you'll want to use a
> 2N2222 and a heatsink...Mike
>
>
Mike is correct, in fact, all of the plastic NPN transistors in the original
2N2/40 and 40+ along with the 2N2/30 and all but 2 NPN transistors in the 2N2/20
are PN2222A transistors. Any other equivalent transistor like a 2N3904 should
work fine too.
The driver is a metal cased 2N2222A with a heatsink, but there are substitutions
that can be made there too, like using a 2N2219 TO5 cased transistor without a
heatsink.
For the final, if you don't want to run paralleled 2N2222A transistors with
heatsinks, other "real" RF transistors can be used. Any of the CB transistors
like 2SC1969, 2SC2078, 2SC2166, 2SC1945 (these are nice as the emitter is on the
tab and can be grounded directly), and 2SC799 etc. etc. will work. In the 2N2/XX
version of the rig for NorCal, a 2SC5739 is being used. These are really nice as
it is a TO-220 case that is all plastic, so the final transistor can be bolted
to the case or a heatsink without the use of the mica or silicone rubber
insulating kit.
Regardless of the rig being built, using the driver circuitry of the 2N2/20
yields a nice drive level. The drive circuity for the NorCal version does a bit
better, but that circuitry hasn't been released yet.
72 all and I'm really enjoying the uptick in builders taking on building one of
the classic versions of the 2N2 rig. Keep up the good work and feedback! :-)
Jim, K8IQY
Tom -
Check with Jim (He monitors this frequency!) and make sure that you have the latest
schematic.
I found NA5N's book excellent to read, but it was for an earlier version and thus not
applicable.
My 2N2-40 is the high point of my amateur career. I made a plexiglass case top so I
could take it to Show n' Tell with fellow hams at breakfast and not have to worry
about inquisitive hands poking the coils etc.
73 ex GL
de Lee, KM4YY
Thomas Frisz wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
> The 2N2-40 is a project I've been wanting to try for ages. I was at
> Dayton when K8IQY first showed off his rig. I was oohing and aahing
> along with everyone else. Jim sure caused a stir with his project!
>
> Last week I decided to take the plunge. I've done quite a bit of
> building and parts hording over the years, so my junk box coughed up
> nearly all of the parts needed. Monday I placed a couple orders online
> and the remaining parts should be here in a day or two.
>
> I'm excited to get started. I'll be sure to post as I make progress
> and I'm happy to know that all of you are here for advice and help if
> there are any bumps in the road along the way to getting my rig on the
> air.
>
> 73,
>
> Tom Frisz N9DD
> South Bend, IN
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
Well, all parts are either here or will be soon. Are there any
suggested construction/testing sequences for the 2n2xx rigs?
72, Curt KB5JO
|
3731|3730|2007-12-22 13:29:46|Jim Kortge|Re: Construction sequence?|russellhulett wrote:
> Well, all parts are either here or will be soon. Are there any
> suggested construction/testing sequences for the 2n2xx rigs?
>
> 72, Curt KB5JO
>
>
Curt,
I would suggest starting at the power conditioning, then the audio amplifier,
and work your way toward the antenna on the receive strip. Add the ancillary
circuits, like the RxTx Switch as you need circuits like that to test where you
are. For instance, the RxTx Switch is needed to make the Audio Mute circuitry
function, so I would build the RxTx Switch before I built the Audio Mute
portion. Doing it that way allows you to use your finger or an antenna at the
input of each stage and hear it come to life. On the transmit strip, I'd work
from the LO toward the antenna, as you can see the increase in RF power as you
go along. Don't ask me how I built all of the original 2N2/XX rigs; it wasn't
that way! :-) But then, I have a fairly good lab to evaluate the circuitry any
way I decide to lay it down.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Jim for the reply. I'll proceed as you've suggested. I was
under impression that there had been a magazine article about these
rigs. I'm particularly interested in anything with typically
expected voltage levels.
My "lab" is extremely limited, comprised of a DVM, marker generator,
FCC-1, dummy load, QRP power meter, and of course several
transceivers. These have served to build many kit transceivers,
hopefully this one won't be any different.
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> Curt,
>
> I would suggest starting at the power conditioning, then the audio
amplifier,
> and work your way toward the antenna on the receive strip. Add the
ancillary
> circuits, like the RxTx Switch as you need circuits like that to
test where you
> are. For instance, the RxTx Switch is needed to make the Audio
Mute circuitry
> function, so I would build the RxTx Switch before I built the
Audio Mute
> portion. Doing it that way allows you to use your finger or an
antenna at the
> input of each stage and hear it come to life. On the transmit
strip, I'd work
> from the LO toward the antenna, as you can see the increase in RF
power as you
> go along. Don't ask me how I built all of the original 2N2/XX
rigs; it wasn't
> that way! :-) But then, I have a fairly good lab to evaluate the
circuitry any
> way I decide to lay it down.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Curt,
There are several web sites showing the build of this rig. You can check mine out at
http://www.wb6kwt.com There are lots of pictures there.
I can't remember where I got the info concerning where to start but it worked for me, with lots of help from Jim. There is some difference between the 2n2-40 and the 2n2-40+ so watch out for that.
Bob
wb6kwt
russellhulett <
rhulett1@comcast.net> wrote: Thanks Jim for the reply. I'll proceed as you've suggested. I was
under impression that there had been a magazine article about these
rigs. I'm particularly interested in anything with typically
expected voltage levels.
My "lab" is extremely limited, comprised of a DVM, marker generator,
FCC-1, dummy load, QRP power meter, and of course several
transceivers. These have served to build many kit transceivers,
hopefully this one won't be any different.
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> Curt,
>
> I would suggest starting at the power conditioning, then the audio
amplifier,
> and work your way toward the antenna on the receive strip. Add the
ancillary
> circuits, like the RxTx Switch as you need circuits like that to
test where you
> are. For instance, the RxTx Switch is needed to make the Audio
Mute circuitry
> function, so I would build the RxTx Switch before I built the
Audio Mute
> portion. Doing it that way allows you to use your finger or an
antenna at the
> input of each stage and hear it come to life. On the transmit
strip, I'd work
> from the LO toward the antenna, as you can see the increase in RF
power as you
> go along. Don't ask me how I built all of the original 2N2/XX
rigs; it wasn't
> that way! :-) But then, I have a fairly good lab to evaluate the
circuitry any
> way I decide to lay it down.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bob,
Thank you so much! Your web page was exactly what I was looking for!
73, Curt KB5JO
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Bob Miller wrote:
>
> Curt,
>
> There are several web sites showing the build of this rig. You can
check mine out at http://www.wb6kwt.com There are lots of pictures
there.
>
> I can't remember where I got the info concerning where to start
but it worked for me, with lots of help from Jim. There is some
difference between the 2n2-40 and the 2n2-40+ so watch out for that.
>
> Bob
> wb6kwt
Hey group,
I've just posted a photo of my newly completed 2N2/20 for your
inspection.
The enclosure is one of two old TenTec enclosures I found at a hamfest
last year...The other one will, hopefully, be used by Brad, WA5PSA, to
close his up when he gets near completion of his rig.
I want to thank all of you who have encouraged and advised me along the
way and a special thanks to Jim for, not just creating the neat design,
but, especially, your enthusiastic encouragement and advice.
I have a few other priorities like finishing other qrp projects before
I pursue,(maybe), building a 2n2/30 or 2n2/40...haven't made up my
mind just yet.
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3736|3735|2007-12-28 22:04:31|Jim Kortge|Re: Another 2N2/20 Completion|wa5pse wrote:
> Hey group,
>
> I've just posted a photo of my newly completed 2N2/20 for your
> inspection.
Oh good, I'm anxious to see your rig Mike.
>
> The enclosure is one of two old TenTec enclosures I found at a hamfest
> last year...The other one will, hopefully, be used by Brad, WA5PSA, to
> close his up when he gets near completion of his rig.
How is he doing anyway? I don't think I've seen a progress report from him in a
while.
>
> I want to thank all of you who have encouraged and advised me along the
> way and a special thanks to Jim for, not just creating the neat design,
> but, especially, your enthusiastic encouragement and advice.
Blush...thanks for the nice comments. I'm just delighted that another of the 2N2
rigs has been built successfully and now on the air. I need to take a few
minutes time and fire mine up and work you. We'll have to do that soon! In the
meantime, I'm building the 4th prototype of the new 2N2/XX rig that will be
offered by NorCal. This is a Rev 1.1 board. Lot of photos being taken as I go
for inclusion in the construction manual. The manual is being used in this build
to check what I've written for accuracy. So far, no major problems.
>
> I have a few other priorities like finishing other qrp projects before
> I pursue,(maybe), building a 2n2/30 or 2n2/40...haven't made up my
> mind just yet.
Lots of time to build another rig. Enjoy this one....... :-)
72 and congratulations Mike on a job well done,
Jim, K8IQY
Well, I've started building 2n2/20. I can really appreciate what kit
vendors provide after ordering all the parts and now having to sort
through them.
I'm also impressed with how beautiful Jim's and other people's
Manhattan work is after the appearance of mine. No comparison, mine
would truly be called "ugly".
So far the Rx/Tx and the Rcvr AF /Speaker stage are finished. Miles
to go...
73 Curt KB5JO
|
3738|3738|2008-01-03 20:38:32|Steve Clark|New to the list|Good day from the Marshall Islands,
I am just joining the list to start building the 2N2/40. I am working on ordering parts but some of them I am having a hard time finding them. Anyway I look forward to being a part of this list and working on the radio.
72/73
Steve
V73CS/N4TKP
Majuro, Marshall Islands
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3739|3735|2008-01-05 20:17:21|wa5pse|Re: Another 2N2/20 Completion|> Oh good, I'm anxious to see your rig Mike.
Well alrighty...
Last night, I finished making terminations to the the rear panel jacks.
This morning I made some pictures to show how it looks from different
angles and added those pics to my picture gallery.
last year...The other one will, hopefully, be used by Brad, WA5PSA, to
close his up when he gets near completion of his rig.
>
> How is he doing anyway? I don't think I've seen a progress report
from him in a while.
Brad has been pre-occupied with the holidays, an injured pet and the
recent ice storm that, effectively, removed Tulsa and the surrounding
area from the power grid.
I did speak with him today though...
He was working on the receiver and was having no luck getting signal
from the input filter through the rest of the receiver...He was about
to strip out the input filter to rebuild it...
I had him check the voltages he was getting on the Norton Amp
transistor and it appeared, to me, that he was having the same issue
with the input winding of the Norton Amp that I had...
I had him reverse the leads and now his receiver is working, albeit
with some lack of sensitivity.
At any rate, he seems to be closing in on finishing the receiver.
I've been taking advantage of the last several days of really crappy
20M conditions to get my rig ready to use.
Mike, WA5PSE
Jim and group,
I'm making my plans to build the 2N2/40, but, I want to make a few
changes...
I just uploaded a pic of my thinking on using the ADE1 in the RX
mixer...(too lazy to wind transformers!)
Was trying to follow the example of the 2N2/40/30's.
If I haven't pulled any boners with this, I'll move on to re-
configuring the TX mixer.
Will I need a different winding ratio for the VFO output xfmr, or,
will the ratios used in the 2N2/20 and 2N2/30 work alright?
Please check my pic and let me know if I have got it right??
Mike, WA5PSE
|
3741|3740|2008-01-07 18:41:22|wa5pse|Re: 2N2/40 plans...|--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "wa5pse"
wrote:
>
> Jim and group,
.....
> Was trying to follow the example of the 2N2/40/30's.
I meant to say 2N2/20/30's!Jim,
Do you have a matched set of 4.915mhz xtals on hand for sale?...
Mike
|
3743|3742|2008-01-11 11:15:21|Jim Kortge|Re: 4.915 mhz xtals...|wa5pse wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Do you have a matched set of 4.915mhz xtals on hand for sale?...
>
> Mike
>
>
Mike,
I can supply matched 4.9152 MHz crystals from my stock. How many crystals do you
want in the matched set? I can probably do anything from 3 to 6, maybe more.
I'm assuming that you would want the two LO crystals too?
4 matched crystals + 2 LO crystals + shipping is $8.00 US. I take personal
checks. Add an additional $1.00 for each matched crystal added to the set up to
6 crystals.
Use my call book address for an order, and please let me know that an order is
coming. That way, I will get it together and shipped ASAP.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
wa5pse wrote:
> Jim and group,
Greetings Mike,
>
> I'm making my plans to build the 2N2/40, but, I want to make a few
> changes...
First off, I'd go with the 2N2/40+ design/schematic. You'll be a lot happier
with the results.
Make the VFO driver circuit mimic the /20 version. Same for the layout for both
of the Rx and Tx mixers using an ADE-1. You could also use an ADE-1 for the
product detector. That is being done in the NorCal version of the rig to
minimize the number of bifilar and trifilar transformers that need to be wound.
Also, in the NorCal version of the rig, no RF amplifier is being used on 40
meters and on 30 and 20 meters, the gain has been dropped down to 6 dB and 10 dB
respectively. Better IMD performance that way with minimum sensitivity loss.
If you use the Norton RF Amp, place a 51 Ohm resistor from the mixers RF port to
ground to that the Norton Amp is seeing a mostly constant load.
>
> I just uploaded a pic of my thinking on using the ADE1 in the RX
> mixer...(too lazy to wind transformers!)
>
> Was trying to follow the example of the 2N2/40/30's.
>
> If I haven't pulled any boners with this, I'll move on to re-
> configuring the TX mixer.
>
> Will I need a different winding ratio for the VFO output xfmr, or,
> will the ratios used in the 2N2/20 and 2N2/30 work alright?
The 16:3:1 ratio is good for any band as it turn out. The attenuator between the
VFO driver and the mixer LO port can be -3dB, using 8.2 and 15 Ohm resistors
>
> Please check my pic and let me know if I have got it right??
See comments above..... :-)
72 and have fun building the /40+ Mike,
Jim, K8IQY
A small battle in the war, but main audio amp worked on powerup.
Miles to go but...
73, Curt KB5JO
|
3746|3746|2008-01-13 16:45:53|n8xx@arrl.org|Re: 2n2-20 Main Audio worketh!|Curt:
Congrats!
Going backwards from Audio to RF for the receiver is "the way to go!"
I don't have the guts to do this from scratch. I'm waiting for the PCB and
kit for a 2n2-40 and maybe a 2n2-80.
72/73 de n8xx Hg
---------------------------- Original Message ----------------------------
Subject: [2n2-40] 2n2-20 Main Audio works!
From: "russellhulett" <
rhulett1@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, January 13, 2008 4:09 pm
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com --------------------------------------------------------------------------
A small battle in the war, but main audio amp worked on powerup. Miles to
go but...
73, Curt KB5JO
Way to go Curt!
----- Original Message -----
From: russellhulett
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 4:09 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2n2-20 Main Audio works!
A small battle in the war, but main audio amp worked on powerup.
Miles to go but...
73, Curt KB5JO
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
russellhulett wrote:
> A small battle in the war, but main audio amp worked on powerup.
> Miles to go but...
>
> 73, Curt KB5JO
>
>
Curt,
Nice to hear you are making progress. The elephant (not the real thing) is being
slowly eaten!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hello Jim,
Did you receive my email that I sent directly to you?
I sent it directly because it had 16 pics of scope diplay showing
signal at various points along the transmitter path.
I have about everything resolved except for the low output, and, I've
become fairly frustrated with my inability, so far, to track down the
problem and am reluctantly looking for more help.
Mike
|
3750|3750|2008-01-24 16:21:26|russellhulett|2n2-20, Finished preamp, now questione|OK, everything works from the preamp input including the mute
circuit. The mute time constant seems little long to me, maybe that's
by design. Can someone fill me in on building T7, 10 T trifilar
transformer at input of the product detector? I'm supposing ends of
two windings join together to be the CT output, any elaboration about
phasing? Is that what the dots on the schematic are meant to signify?
Also, strategy for testing once the RX LO is completed? I'm thinking
that injecting signal from a marker generator into T7 CT, ought to
hear a signal at the speaker?
This elephant is proving to be rather large, but that was why I wanted
to build this rig, little more challenge than a kit.
73, Curt KB5JO
|
3751|3750|2008-01-24 16:45:21|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-20, Finished preamp, now a question|russellhulett wrote:
> OK, everything works from the preamp input including the mute
> circuit.
OK!!!
The mute time constant seems little long to me, maybe that's
> by design.
It is and should be fine once the rig is finished.
Can someone fill me in on building T7, 10 T trifilar
> transformer at input of the product detector?
Yes, I can and will do that.
I'm supposing ends of
> two windings join together to be the CT output, any elaboration about
> phasing?
The "finish" of one winding is connected to the "start" of another winding to
become the center tap. That leaves a "start" end and a "finish" end as the two
outside ends that drive the diodes in this single balanced mixer configuration
or product detector.
Is that what the dots on the schematic are meant to signify?
Yep! That's it exactly.
>
> Also, strategy for testing once the RX LO is completed? I'm thinking
> that injecting signal from a marker generator into T7 CT, ought to
> hear a signal at the speaker?
Yes, that will work fine, or you can connect the center-tap of T7 to an antenna
through a 0.1 uF capacitor and listen to band noise. There is enough audio gain
after the product detector to hear atmospheric noise.
>
> This elephant is proving to be rather large, but that was why I wanted
> to build this rig, little more challenge than a kit.
You are making great progress Curt. I look forward to hearing about your
progress and success. Most exciting!
For those of you who know about the NorCal 2N2/XX project, I just finished
building a 20-meter, 2N2/XX last week using a V1.1 PCB. This rig worked
perfectly and a set of V1.2 boards are on order for a 6 unit prototype build.
The difference between the two revisions is flipping a few resistors around so
that the loop end can be used as a test point. An assembly manual has also been
completed for the beta builders to use and help update. Two rigs will be built
on each of three bands, 20-meters, 30-meters, and 40-meters for the beta build
and those rigs will come here for evaluation. We are still on schedule for an
early spring availability of the kits. Stay tuned!! :-)
Jim, K8IQY
After building the Rcvr LO, I thought should be able to hear it in the
station receiver here. Nothing heard. The detector seems to work.
Any ideas?
Curt KB5JO
|
3753|3752|2008-02-05 16:50:40|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-20 Snag|russellhulett wrote:
> After building the Rcvr LO, I thought should be able to hear it in the
> station receiver here. Nothing heard. The detector seems to work.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Curt KB5JO
>
>
Curt,
You should be able to hear the 11 MHz frequency of the receive LO in you station
receiver. That said, you may well have to take off your outside antenna and just
use a short piece of wire from your station receiver to near the LO to pick it
up. If that doesn't work, the LO isn't oscillating for some reason.
How do you know the detector is working? For that to be working, the RxLO must
be working!
72 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
Broken (?!) Rcvr LO Transistor replaced, LO working at 11 MHz +- heard
strong on station receiver, tuneable with the trim cap. Hearing
marker generator injected into Y5 input. This is first component
failure for me in a long time, most of my problems are my dumb
mistakes.
Back on the road to build the IF amplifier.
73, Curt
|
3755|3752|2008-02-06 13:04:04|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-20 Snag|russellhulett wrote:
> Broken (?!) Rcvr LO Transistor replaced, LO working at 11 MHz +- heard
> strong on station receiver, tuneable with the trim cap. Hearing
> marker generator injected into Y5 input. This is first component
> failure for me in a long time, most of my problems are my dumb
> mistakes.
>
> Back on the road to build the IF amplifier.
>
> 73, Curt
>
>
Curt,
Yes, a defective transistor is really rare. I haven't had one of those in maybe
25 or 30 years and don't want any either! :-)
Thanks for the update.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS...Larry, K3PEG, if you read this, make sure your ISP isn't blocking email
from
jokortge@dialup4less.com. That is my main email address now and I've been
sending you emails the past week or so.
I received answer to this ? once before, what is appropriate
substitute toroid for BN2402? And from the pictures it looks like the
T6 5T Secondary is connected to the IF Amp Q9 collector? I would have
thought the "secondary" was the connection on the "output" or RxXRF on
the schematic. Similar clarification for T4 & T5 connections please?
73, Curt
|
3757|3756|2008-02-06 16:15:12|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-20 Clarification?|russellhulett wrote:
> I received answer to this ? once before, what is appropriate
> substitute toroid for BN2402?
You can use a FT37-43 for any of the BN2402 cores. Use the same number of turns
on the primary and secondary windings.
And from the pictures it looks like the
> T6 5T Secondary is connected to the IF Amp Q9 collector?
It isn't. The 17-turn primary is connected to the collector of Q9 and the
collector end of R38; the 5-turn secondary goes to RxXRF and ground.
I would have
> thought the "secondary" was the connection on the "output" or RxXRF on
> the schematic.
It is.....
Similar clarification for T4
The 9-turn primary goes to the collector of Q7 and the collector end of R30; the
3-turn secondary connects to ground and the input end of the attenuator,
resistor R32, as shown in the schematic.
& T5 connections please?
The 9-turn primary winding of T5 connects between the output of the main crystal
filter via series capacitor C37 and shunt capacitor C38 and ground; the
secondary 3-turn winding connects between shunt resistor R35 and ground, as
shown in the schematic.
Does all of that make sense Curt?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Yes, absolutely. I guess the old eyes saw the picture wrong.
BTW, surely am thankful you monitor this list strongly.
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> Does all of that make sense Curt?
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Completed the receiver IF amp. Marker generator into T5 input can be
peaked with TC6, tuned with TC7. Antenna connected to same location
receives SWBC sigs. Correct?
73, Curt KB5JO
|
3760|3759|2008-02-08 17:14:41|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-20 Rcv IF Amp complete|russellhulett wrote:
> Completed the receiver IF amp. Marker generator into T5 input can be
> peaked with TC6, tuned with TC7. Antenna connected to same location
> receives SWBC sigs. Correct?
Absolutely working the way it is supposed to at this point in the construction.
Are you starting to get geeked about the fact that it is coming together nicely
and working as designed? I am!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Yes, it's turning out to be the adventure I was hoping it would be.
Something beyond just loading parts into holes and soldering. Takes
me back to days 40 years ago as a kid building a two-tube regen
receiver.
Only wish my Manhattan work was neater, certainly doesn't look as
nice as yours, suppose practice makes perfect.
One question, do you have trouble with the chads sometimes
delaminating when heated too much? Maybe the PCB material am using
is too thin.
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> Are you starting to get geeked about the fact that it is coming
together nicely
> and working as designed? I am!
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
russellhulett wrote:
> Yes, it's turning out to be the adventure I was hoping it would be.
> Something beyond just loading parts into holes and soldering. Takes
> me back to days 40 years ago as a kid building a two-tube regen
> receiver.
Yup, that's it!
>
> Only wish my Manhattan work was neater, certainly doesn't look as
> nice as yours, suppose practice makes perfect.
Practice and patience is the secret.
>
> One question, do you have trouble with the chads sometimes
> delaminating when heated too much?
No, I've seldom had problems with the. Usually, my pads are 1/16 inch thick
material, FR4 glass board material, single sided and 1/18 inch diameter. I don't
leave the soldering iron on the pad for very long; 5-sec total for a connection.
Maybe the PCB material am using
> is too thin.
How thick is it and what kind of material for the substrate? FR4 is quite tough,
but some of the phenolic type PCB material isn't as mechanically strong and
won't take as much heat before the copper comes off.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Prime double sided copper clad glass epoxy material for making PC
boards. Thickness: .032". Size: 6" x 7". G2634 from electronics
goldmine.
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> No, I've seldom had problems with the. Usually, my pads are 1/16
inch thick material, FR4 glass board material, single sided and 1/18
inch diameter. I don't leave the soldering iron on the pad for very
long; 5-sec total for a connection.
>
>
> Maybe the PCB material am using
> > is too thin.
>
> How thick is it and what kind of material for the substrate? FR4
is quite tough, but some of the phenolic type PCB material isn't as
mechanically strong and won't take as much heat before the copper
comes off.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
It just amazes Jim when he finds out yet another guy has been able to
get his 2N2-XX running (;>o)!
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
Jim Kortge wrote:
> russellhulett wrote:
>> Completed the receiver IF amp. Marker generator into T5 input can be
>> peaked with TC6, tuned with TC7. Antenna connected to same location
>> receives SWBC sigs. Correct?
>
> Absolutely working the way it is supposed to at this point in the construction.
>
> Are you starting to get geeked about the fact that it is coming together nicely
> and working as designed? I am!
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
russellhulett wrote:
> Prime double sided copper clad glass epoxy material for making PC
> boards. Thickness: .032". Size: 6" x 7". G2634 from electronics
> goldmine.
That board material ought to be fine. I've done lots of Manhattan-style
building on 0.032" board material. Probably just keeping the heat on it a bit
too long.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Lee Mairs (SAG) wrote:
> It just amazes Jim when he finds out yet another guy has been able to
> get his 2N2-XX running (;>o)!
>
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY/8
Hey Mr. Mairs,
Well actually, as you know, I know it will work if it is built with all of the
parts in the right places. It is when one is built with the wrong parts in the
right places or the right parts in the wrong places that I worry!
Sorry we won't be seeing each other at Atlanticon this year. I'm gonna miss that
event and all of the good folks that I know out your way. Oh well, maybe next
year the guys in AmQRP will bring it back again.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Roger missing Atlanticon Jim! That was my favorite hamfest weekend
and one of the few I was willing to drive three hours to get to and
rent a hotel room to enjoy.
I sure hope the NJQRP/AmQRP Clubs can get revitalized. It is too
much to expect George and Joe to carry so much of the load. George
was essential to the mix.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
Jim Kortge wrote:
> Lee Mairs (SAG) wrote:
>> It just amazes Jim when he finds out yet another guy has been able to
>> get his 2N2-XX running (;>o)!
>>
>> 73 de Lee
>> KM4YY/8
>
> Hey Mr. Mairs,
>
> Well actually, as you know, I know it will work if it is built with all of the
> parts in the right places. It is when one is built with the wrong parts in the
> right places or the right parts in the wrong places that I worry!
>
> Sorry we won't be seeing each other at Atlanticon this year. I'm gonna miss that
> event and all of the good folks that I know out your way. Oh well, maybe next
> year the guys in AmQRP will bring it back again.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
As Jim says, once all the right parts are in the right place things
work better, the VFO is functional. :o)
After connecting D6 correctly so as to allow some electrons to flow
into the circuit rather than into the ground, the VFO signal could be
heard in the station receiver.
Connected C12 between varactor and ground rather than L5, then
wondered why Pot2 wouldn't vary frequency. After verifying voltage to
D10 was changing, then swapping out D10, discovered the second wiring
mistake. Somehow I seem to make more mistakes with this manhattan
stuff than when loading a PCB.
A little more, maybe can receive some 20M sigs. Onward through the
fog...
72, Curt KB5JO
|
3769|3768|2008-02-16 21:07:26|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-20 VFO Works !|russellhulett wrote:
> As Jim says, once all the right parts are in the right place things
> work better, the VFO is functional. :o)
>
> After connecting D6 correctly so as to allow some electrons to flow
> into the circuit rather than into the ground, the VFO signal could be
> heard in the station receiver.
>
> Connected C12 between varactor and ground rather than L5, then
> wondered why Pot2 wouldn't vary frequency. After verifying voltage to
> D10 was changing, then swapping out D10, discovered the second wiring
> mistake. Somehow I seem to make more mistakes with this manhattan
> stuff than when loading a PCB.
>
> A little more, maybe can receive some 20M sigs. Onward through the
> fog...
>
> 72, Curt KB5JO
>
>
>
Curt,
Thanks for posting the update! You're making good progress.....
This weekend would have been a good time to listen to 20 meters with all of the
contest activity. But there will probably be another contest next weekend. :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
It is great fun isn't it?
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
Jim Kortge wrote:
> russellhulett wrote:
>> As Jim says, once all the right parts are in the right place things
>> work better, the VFO is functional. :o)
>>
>> After connecting D6 correctly so as to allow some electrons to flow
>> into the circuit rather than into the ground, the VFO signal could be
>> heard in the station receiver.
>>
>> Connected C12 between varactor and ground rather than L5, then
>> wondered why Pot2 wouldn't vary frequency. After verifying voltage to
>> D10 was changing, then swapping out D10, discovered the second wiring
>> mistake. Somehow I seem to make more mistakes with this manhattan
>> stuff than when loading a PCB.
>>
>> A little more, maybe can receive some 20M sigs. Onward through the
>> fog...
>>
>> 72, Curt KB5JO
>>
>>
>>
>
> Curt,
>
> Thanks for posting the update! You're making good progress.....
>
> This weekend would have been a good time to listen to 20 meters with all of the
> contest activity. But there will probably be another contest next weekend. :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
The receiver using a clip lead for antenna can hear my Argonaut
putting 1 watt into a dummy load at 14.040 MHz. But, connected to the
station antenna it hears nothing but "hiss", though plenty of stations
on the air. Must be (another) mistake somewhere. Time to put the 2n2-
20 (and rest of ham radio) aside for awhile because a new baby
Granddaughter arrives early tomorrow morning.
73, Curt KB5JO
|
3772|3771|2008-02-18 16:03:35|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-20 project on hold for awhile|russellhulett wrote:
> The receiver using a clip lead for antenna can hear my Argonaut
> putting 1 watt into a dummy load at 14.040 MHz. But, connected to the
> station antenna it hears nothing but "hiss", though plenty of stations
> on the air. Must be (another) mistake somewhere.
That is a possibility....
Time to put the 2n2-
> 20 (and rest of ham radio) aside for awhile because a new baby
> Granddaughter arrives early tomorrow morning.
Oh, what fun. That beats ham radio hands down!! :-) All the best to everyone in
your family, especially the new mom.
Thanks for the update Grandpa and 72,
Jim, K8IQY
Anyone know expected voltages for Receiver sections. I'm back trying
to troubleshoot this rig, for some reason the sensitivity isn't nearly
adequate.
72, Curt
|
3774|3774|2008-03-17 20:31:57|wa5thj|PC Board|I have been away from list activities as of late. Was curious if PC
board for 2N2-40 that was being discussed ever got off the ground?
Thanks, Byron WA5THJ
|
3775|3774|2008-03-17 21:22:33|Bob Miller|Re: PC Board|Byron,
The boards are being tested right now. There are 6 beta builders working on 40, 30 and 20 meter boards. There should be some info coming out soon as to when the kits will be available.
Bob
wa5thj <
bjtatum1@att.net> wrote: I have been away from list activities as of late. Was curious if PC
board for 2N2-40 that was being discussed ever got off the ground?
Thanks, Byron WA5THJ
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
OK Bob-
Nice to hear of the progress! I will be waiting for the results of build tests. Thanks! Byron
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Miller
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 8:22 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] PC Board
Byron,
The boards are being tested right now. There are 6 beta builders working on 40, 30 and 20 meter boards. There should be some info coming out soon as to when the kits will be available.
Bob
wa5thj <bjtatum1@att.net> wrote: I have been away from list activities as of late. Was curious if PC
board for 2N2-40 that was being discussed ever got off the ground?
Thanks, Byron WA5THJ
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
wa5thj wrote:
> I have been away from list activities as of late. Was curious if PC
> board for 2N2-40 that was being discussed ever got off the ground?
> Thanks, Byron WA5THJ
>
>
Byron,
Yes, the PC board for the 2N2/XX is just part of the a kit for the rig that will
be released by NorCal, probably sometime in the May time frame. Currently, 6
Beta build rigs are under construction by a group of Beta builders and being
evaluated by yours truly. There are 2 rigs on each of the 3 bands on which the
kit will be available, namely, 20, 30 and 40 meters. Each kits will be complete
with the PCB, all needed parts, and a painted/silk screened case. Pricing has
not been set as yet.
Bare PC Boards will not be available, just the kit, to insure that everything
needed is provided and that the correct parts are used.
That's a brief synopsis; I hope that will suffice.
72 to all,
Jim, K8IQY
PS, please everyone, don't bombard me with a zillion questions about the kit. Go
to the NorCal web site to see the presentation that I made a Pacificon this
fall. What I've written above is all that I will talk about at this point in
time. Thanks.....
Jim-
Thank you for the info. I will be watching the Norcal site.
Thanks, Byron WA5THJ.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] PC Board
wa5thj wrote:
> I have been away from list activities as of late. Was curious if PC
> board for 2N2-40 that was being discussed ever got off the ground?
> Thanks, Byron WA5THJ
>
>
Byron,
Yes, the PC board for the 2N2/XX is just part of the a kit for the rig that will
be released by NorCal, probably sometime in the May time frame. Currently, 6
Beta build rigs are under construction by a group of Beta builders and being
evaluated by yours truly. There are 2 rigs on each of the 3 bands on which the
kit will be available, namely, 20, 30 and 40 meters. Each kits will be complete
with the PCB, all needed parts, and a painted/silk screened case. Pricing has
not been set as yet.
Bare PC Boards will not be available, just the kit, to insure that everything
needed is provided and that the correct parts are used.
That's a brief synopsis; I hope that will suffice.
72 to all,
Jim, K8IQY
PS, please everyone, don't bombard me with a zillion questions about the kit. Go
to the NorCal web site to see the presentation that I made a Pacificon this
fall. What I've written above is all that I will talk about at this point in
time. Thanks.....
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi everyone,
I have been on the list for a couple of weeks trying to catch up on
everything that has going on. I am starting to collect parts to put
together a 2N2-20.
I attended Ozarkcon and visited with Jim for a short couple of
minutes. Had a fantastic time and it was well worth the trip.
Just thought I would say Hi instead of lurking in the background.
73,
Ray McNally - N5SEZ
|
3780|3780|2008-05-09 13:27:29|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2 radio build|Ray McNally wrote:
> Jim,
>
Hi Ray,
> I have almost half of the parts in my stocks, if I can find all of them.
> Toooo many moves over the years. I think Mouser has most everything else I
> need.
Mouser can supply quite a bit of the rig.
>
> I will send you an email when I get close to the crystal filter. I think
> I saw around $12.00 for a set on the yahoo group.
Depends on the filter. The 20 meter filter set is $12.00 and contains 6-matched
crystals plus the two for LO service. The sets for the other two bands are less,
as there are fewer matched crystals.
>
> I have an idea for the tuning pot I will try - a dual 10K with a 500 to 1K
> in between for the fine tuning. It sounds complex to start with but after
> sleeping on it for more than a few winks, it is almost simple.
>
> |
> /\/\/\
> ____| 500 |__
> | |
> /\/\/\ /\/\/\
> | | | |
> c 10k nc nc 10k c
Yes, that arrangement will work just fine and saves the cost of the 10-turn pot.
Wish I had thought of the idea! :-) I'm anxious to hear how that arrangement
works. You could also put a trim pot in the low voltage end to trim the VFO span
so that it covers exactly 100 KHz on 20 or 40 and 50 KHz on 30 meters. I've done
that for the commercial version of the rig that Norcal will be selling.
73 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
PS, I'm going to copy my reply to the 2n2-40 group so they can see your clever
VFO pot setup.
Last Saturday, the Midwest Home Brewers and QRP Group (
http://members.cox.net/w9hzc/homebrew/index.htm ) met and I talked
about the 2N2-20 radio. Interest was indicated by 4 or 5 others and
it looks like we may have a small group build starting (or started).
I plan on sharing our progress/results here. It should be lots of FUN.
73,
Ray - N5SEZ
After failing to get the 2n2-20 receiver to work (very poor
sensitivity), got rather discouraged with it, so put it aside to build
a K-2.
Finished with that detour, thinking of tackling the 2n2 again. Are
there voltage tables or voltage-noted schematics available anywhere to
aid in troubleshooting?
73, Curt KB5JO
|
3783|3782|2008-05-13 22:41:51|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-20 Discouragement|russellhulett wrote:
> After failing to get the 2n2-20 receiver to work (very poor
> sensitivity), got rather discouraged with it, so put it aside to build
> a K-2.
How did that come out?
>
> Finished with that detour, thinking of tackling the 2n2 again. Are
> there voltage tables or voltage-noted schematics available anywhere to
> aid in troubleshooting?
Yes, but I don't remember where everything is. Remind me when I return from
Dayton and we'll go on that quest.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi,
Anyone got a stock of the 2N radio variactor diodes:
MV2115
MVAVM109
MV1662
MV209
Preferably in UK or can accept DX orders (without huge shipping)
I was pending an order with Dans Small Pats and Kits but due to Dan's
accident bit out of luck.
73
Dom
|
3785|3785|2008-05-23 23:06:50|Rob Matherly|A question regarding board size|Is the size of the PC board used critical to proper function of the
circuit? Or, could I use a somewhat smaller board and decrease the
spacing between components?
Thanks!
--
72/73/oo - Rob, w0jrm - Centerville, IA, USA - EN30ls
FP-QRP #-330; FP-Z #4(1); QRPp-I #19; SKCC #29; ARS #1143 QRP.-.. #7
|
3786|3785|2008-05-24 08:27:01|Jim Kortge|Re: A question regarding board size|Rob Matherly wrote:
> Is the size of the PC board used critical to proper function of the
> circuit?
Not as much as having it layed out correctly, if you are referring to a real PC
board. If you are referencing the Manhattan-style substrate, then any size that
you can fit the components on will work just fine.
Or, could I use a somewhat smaller board and decrease the
> spacing between components?
The board for the 2N2/XX rig is about as tight as I think is practical, but
certainly could be made smaller, especially if surface mount components were
used. The original 2N2/40 was on a 4 X 5 inch substrate; the published version
was on a 5 X 7 inch substrate so that it would be easier for others to build.
>
> Thanks!
>
You are welcome Rob.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim Kortge wrote:
> The board for the 2N2/XX rig is about as tight as I think is practical, but
> certainly could be made smaller, especially if surface mount components were
> used. The original 2N2/40 was on a 4 X 5 inch substrate; the published version
> was on a 5 X 7 inch substrate so that it would be easier for others to build.
Ok... 4x5 is what I have now. I will see if I can make it all fit on
there. Thanks for the reply, Jim!
--
72/73/oo - Rob, w0jrm
http://www.robmatherly.com FP-QRP #-330; SKCC #29; QRP.-.. #7
Jim:
Do you have any update on the beta testing, etc., and projected final
release date for the kits with printed circuits?
Just curious.
72/73 de n8xx Hg
|
3789|3789|2008-05-27 18:36:55|TC Dufresne|Questions about the 2n2-40 book by Paul Harden|Jim: I built the 2n2-40 a few (?) years back, and have been out of ham
radio for awhile (2 years) as I have been occupied with my home theater
project. It was suppoed to be a nice summer diversion, but you know how
those things turn out! (wink wink)
Question:
I ran across my 2n2-40 rig, and want to do some debugging. When I last
tried it, it had no audio at all.
Can I somehow get ahold of Paul Harden's beautifully illustrated manual
for the rig? It would really help. I did do a search, but the latest
post having anything to do with Paul was like March 2007.
Can I still get a reprint of his build manual?
Thanks!
Tom
KCØGXX
|
3790|3790|2008-05-29 03:42:40|Rob Matherly|A question about TR-1 in a 2n2-30|I have a question about TR-1, the TX gain trimmer pot. Could this be
moved to the front panel in the form of a "regular" potentiometer, for
purposes of power level adjustment?
Thanks!
--
72/73/oo - Rob, w0jrm - Centerville, IA, USA - EN30ls
FP-QRP #-330; FP-Z #4(1); QRPp-I #19; SKCC #29; ARS #1143 QRP.-.. #7
|
3791|3790|2008-05-29 14:22:15|Jim Kortge|Re: A question about TR-1 in a 2n2-30|Rob Matherly wrote:
> I have a question about TR-1, the TX gain trimmer pot. Could this be
> moved to the front panel in the form of a "regular" potentiometer, for
> purposes of power level adjustment?
Rob,
Probably not a good idea to move it to the front panel, as that would would mean
long leads and there is RF on two of those pot leads. However, you could mount a
pot in its "normal" location and bring a shaft forward to control the pot. That
should work fine I'm guessing.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
TC Dufresne wrote:
> Jim: I built the 2n2-40 a few (?) years back, and have been out of ham
> radio for awhile (2 years) as I have been occupied with my home theater
> project.
Hi Tom,
Yes, I remember when you were working on that rig.
It was suppoed to be a nice summer diversion, but you know how
> those things turn out! (wink wink)
Roger that......
>
> Question:
> I ran across my 2n2-40 rig, and want to do some debugging. When I last
> tried it, it had no audio at all.
>
> Can I somehow get ahold of Paul Harden's beautifully illustrated manual
> for the rig?
I don't know whether Paul is still printing that or not. He had a major roof
leak at the print shop maybe a year ago, and I don't know if he ever recovered
from that.
It would really help. I did do a search, but the latest
> post having anything to do with Paul was like March 2007.
> Can I still get a reprint of his build manual?
Don't know, but I probably have an extra copy around here that I would be
willing to loan you if that would help. If so, send me your mailing address and
I'll find a copy and mail it to you OK?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....I cc: Paul just in case he wants to jump in too.
On 5/29/08, Jim Kortge <
jokortge@dialup4less.com> wrote:
> Rob,
>
> Probably not a good idea to move it to the front panel, as that would would mean
> long leads and there is RF on two of those pot leads. However, you could mount a
> pot in its "normal" location and bring a shaft forward to control the pot. That
> should work fine I'm guessing.
Ok, thanks again Jim. I'm going to mount it all "KX1 style," with the
controls on top so I can use it in the field (meaning, probably, my
patio.) Shouldn't be too hard to mount a shaft straight out the top
of the case.
--
72/73/oo - Rob, w0jrm - Centerville, IA, USA - EN30ls
FP-QRP #-330; FP-Z #4(1); QRPp-I #19; SKCC #29; ARS #1143 QRP.-.. #7
Hank Greeb wrote:
> Jim:
Hi Hank,
>
> Do you have any update on the beta testing, etc., and projected final
> release date for the kits with printed circuits?
My best guess at this time is that the kit will be ready for release in about
two months. We are still waiting on parts and the manual still needs some work
before it is ready for prime time and the builders. :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Got the booklet Friday.
It was great to re-read and remember all the fun I had as I built it.
As I started trouble-shooting, it looks like I have a short somewhere.
I loose about 90% on audio, then I push the front or tap the tuner,
and I get the audio back. Maybe a ground is loose somewhere?
Anyway, thanks again for the booklet. What a great rig!
KCØGXX
|
3796|3795|2008-06-16 17:05:49|Jim Kortge|Re: Thanks Jim!|TC Dufresne wrote:
> Got the booklet Friday.
Good...enjoy it my friend.
>
> It was great to re-read and remember all the fun I had as I built it.
>
> As I started trouble-shooting, it looks like I have a short somewhere.
> I loose about 90% on audio, then I push the front or tap the tuner,
> and I get the audio back. Maybe a ground is loose somewhere?
Sure sounds like a loose ground or a short, either one could cause that problem
I suppose. I know you'll find it with a bit of sleuthing.
>
> Anyway, thanks again for the booklet. What a great rig!
You are welcome Tom.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
I have been looking for a parts list that matches Larry's
EM_2n2_40+_Rev4 board layout. The list part numbers that I found thus
far do not match. (at least not in the Rx input filer area which I
looked at)
If anyone has a copy or a working link, I would appreciate it.
I also notice that it uses some MV 1662 varactors. I have MV2115
varactors set aside for the progect. Any source for two of the MV1662
would be appreciated.
I hope to marry this project with a $9.95 LCD frequency readout.
Jim n2go
|
3798|3797|2008-06-19 22:15:34|jskalski|Re: K3PEG 2N2/40 parts list?|--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "jskalski"
wrote:
>
> I have been looking for a parts list that matches Larry's
> EM_2n2_40+_Rev4 board layout. The list part numbers that I found thus
> far do not match. (at least not in the Rx input filer area which I
> looked at)
>
> If anyone has a copy or a working link, I would appreciate it.
>
> I also notice that it uses some MV 1662 varactors. I have MV2115
> varactors set aside for the progect. Any source for two of the MV1662
> would be appreciated.
>
> I hope to marry this project with a $9.95 LCD frequency readout.
>
> Jim n2go
>
I have the schematic and that should do it.
I still need two mv1662 varactors. So any assistance it locating them
would be appreciated.
Jim n2goHello Jim
Hosfelts at
http://www.hosfelt.com/ still sells them at 35 cents each or 3
for a dollar. I do not think they have any minimum order. You can do a
description search for MV1662 or choose Voltage Variable Capacitance Diodes
or go tto
http://www.hosfelt.com/en-us/dept_395.html (which is the place
that Voltage Variable Capacitance Diodes takes you to although it is in a
frame) and then pick the MV1662 and ad to your cart..
Also Dave Benson K1SWL sells them at Small Wonder Labs (
http://www.smallwonderlabs.com ) as they are used in his SW+ series
transceivers and he is usually very reasonable on prices and is a great guy
to deal with. He has always gone out of his way to help me and others. I
know he was building a new house but not sure where he is at with that but I
do highly recommend him and his company. Contact him and ask him.
Hope that helps.
Good luck.
Jim Pruitt
----- Original Message -----
From: jskalski
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 7:15 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: K3PEG 2N2/40 parts list?
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "jskalski" wrote:
>
> I also notice that it uses some MV 1662 varactors. I have MV2115
> varactors set aside for the progect. Any source for two of the MV1662
> would be appreciated.
> Jim n2go
>
I have the schematic and that should do it.
I still need two mv1662 varactors. So any assistance it locating them
would be appreciated.
Jim n2go
Hi
I found them earlier today and ordered the above parts from Hosfelt.
I have dealt with them in the past and have always been pleased.
At 35 cents each, the varactors are reasonably priced. I was pleased
to see that they have a web order capability. I had previously
mentioned to them that it would be a big plus.
Actually the whole project can be built for peanuts as most of the
parts are already on hand. Now I have to locate "that bag of 2n2222
transistors" :)
I used the K3peg board layout and used a biopsy punch to cut out the
pads on his layout drawing. I then used it as a template to mark the
pcb with a magic marker. That made it easy to glue the pads in place.
It was easy to glue down all the pads with one small tube of glue.
When I had superglued all of the 1/8" manhattan disks on the pcb
groundplane It sorta reminded me of Braille....
Then I used cleaner to remove all of my finger prints
Jim n2go
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Pruitt" wrote:
>
> Hello Jim
>
> Hosfelts at http://www.hosfelt.com/ still sells them at 35 cents
each or 3
> for a dollar. I do not think they have any minimum order. You can do a
> description search for MV1662 or choose Voltage Variable Capacitance
Diodes
> or go tto http://www.hosfelt.com/en-us/dept_395.html (which is the
place
> that Voltage Variable Capacitance Diodes takes you to although it is
in a
> frame) and then pick the MV1662 and ad to your cart..
>
> Also Dave Benson K1SWL sells them at Small Wonder Labs (
> http://www.smallwonderlabs.com ) as they are used in his SW+ series
> transceivers and he is usually very reasonable on prices and is a
great guy
> to deal with. He has always gone out of his way to help me and
others. I
> know he was building a new house but not sure where he is at with
that but I
> do highly recommend him and his company. Contact him and ask him.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Jim Pruitt
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: jskalski
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 7:15 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: K3PEG 2N2/40 parts list?
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "jskalski" wrote:
> >
> > I also notice that it uses some MV 1662 varactors. I have MV2115
> > varactors set aside for the progect. Any source for two of the MV1662
> > would be appreciated.
> > Jim n2go
> >
> I have the schematic and that should do it.
>
> I still need two mv1662 varactors. So any assistance it locating them
> would be appreciated.
>
> Jim n2go
>
Hi Jim,
I Received the Crystals last Friday. Thanks.
I completed the audio amp section, stumbled around trying to verify
it was working, finally switched speakers and when I touched the input
capacitor, ...
What to my startled ears,
Instead of static softly whispering from the little black cone,
The sound of AM Talk Radio radiated around the room.
Ok, so I only have the audio amplifier and TxVcc sections built. I
sat back and pondered how not only is the circuit producing rather
startling clear audio, but it is also right dead on a "frequency" of a
local AM band radio station.
Hmmmm, I can only wonder if one of my neighbors has a very "open"
radio and there may be some sort of coupling taking place.
At least I verified that the amplifier is working.
I have to go for now, melt more solder, take some pictures, ...
73 for now,
Ray - N5SEZ
|
3802|3802|2008-07-29 07:12:42|Robert Hughes|2n2-20 Build Status|Hello All,
I started building from the audio amp also Ray, and am up to the main crystal filter (which I will do today). I attached to my dipole a couple of days ago and by touching the circuit with my finger was able to hear a local am radio station.
I think things are going okay. I have an audio signal generator and DDS-60 that I built and have been trying to use those to test as I go. I'm wondering how small a signal I should be testing with. I hacked together an attenuator and believe I was feeding about a -44dBm signal into the input of T7 and heard plenty of audio out of the speaker.
Is there any documentation for building the 2n2-20 as I have just been going by the schematic?
I've been simulating things using LTSpice and the DC voltage levels I get are pretty close to what I measure at the 2n2-20.
I'm having a very enjoyable time so far...
72/73,
Bob - KI8JM
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3803|3802|2008-07-30 12:35:24|jacupoam03|Re: 2n2-20 Build Status|Hi Bob,
I think my AM radio station is about 3 miles to the east of me so
that may help explain the perfect audio from the speaker. 8-}.
I am thinking I may have seen some input voltages to some of the
sections in some of the past messages on this list. My 1 active
brain cell is thinking maybe in the past 2-5 years. I am not to T7
yet, so not sure what level to expect.
I found this file - EM_2n2_20_layout_ver_A.pdf in the file section
and am using it for the layout. I used a sharpie marker to make the
boxes and am trying to stay inside of the boxes. I have tried to go
thru the history of messages to get the golden nuggets to be found as
far as the hows and whys of the design. I have seen mention of a
book (I think for the 40 M version). Not sure on the current status
of it though.
There is 2 builds progressing that I know of in the Nebraska/Iowa
area at this time and we are having a very enjoyable time. This is
the first radio I have built section by section, testing along the
way. All the others have been buy, build, pray, power on. Hoping
for all the magic smoke to stay in - makes radios work better this
way.
73 to all,
Ray - N5SEZ
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Robert Hughes wrote:
>
> Hello All,
> I started building from the audio amp also Ray, and am up to the
main crystal filter (which I will do today). I attached to my dipole
a couple of days ago and by touching the circuit with my finger was
able to hear a local am radio station.
> I think things are going okay. I have an audio signal generator and
DDS-60 that I built and have been trying to use those to test as
I go. I'm wondering how small a signal I should be testing with. I
hacked together an attenuator and believe I was feeding about a -
44dBm signal into the input of T7 and heard plenty of audio out of
the speaker.
> Is there any documentation for building the 2n2-20 as I have just
been going by the schematic?
> I've been simulating things using LTSpice and the DC voltage levels
I get are pretty close to what I measure at the 2n2-20.
> I'm having a very enjoyable time so far...
> 72/73,
> Bob - KI8JM
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
I have completed the following sections working backwards from the
speaker:
*Rx Main Audio Amp
*Rx Mute
*Rx Audio Pre-Amp
*Rx Product Detector
*Rx Local Oscillator
*Rx Xtal Roofing Filter
*Rx IF Amp
*Rx Main Xtal Filter
*Rx Post Mixer Amp
Everything seems okay, but when feeding an 11-MHz signal in at T3 and
touching T5 with my finger, the audio output gets quite a bit louder.
Is this normal?
72/73,
Bob - KI8JM
|
3805|3802|2008-07-31 06:59:18|ki8jm|Re: 2n2-20 Build Status|Hi Ray,
I discovered the layout file you mentioned shortly after I started
building and it has saved me some time placing components. I noticed T6
on the layout has pins 3 and 4 reversed compared to the schematic. I'm
not sure it would matter in this situation so someone with more
knowledge will have to comment. Also C29 (to the right of T4) is not in
agreement with the schematic. I went by the schematic in both cases.
I'm going to try to start on the VFO today.
Good luck with the build.
72/73,
Bob - KI8JM
|
3806|3802|2008-07-31 09:16:02|russellhulett|Re: 2n2-20 Build Status|Good to hear folks having success building this rig. I finished the
receiver on mine several months ago but sensitivity was very low,
never identified the problem, so took time off to build a K-2. The
other folks building this rig make me want to pull the 2n2-20 back out
to try again.
72, Curt KB5JO
|
3807|3807|2008-07-31 18:08:16|bob parks|This ham needs some help|1. NA5N'S DATA ON K8IQY'S 2N40 CW TRANSCEVER
Posted by: "Ed Jerome"
edn8wxl@gmail.com Date: Thu Jul 31, 2008 7:12 am ((PDT))
*Hi guys /gals my name is Ed Jerome an I am 70yrs old this year... I am
getting back into ham radio and will up grade to general this fall... *
*I have my loop up ...80 meters... fed with 450 line an matched to 50 ohms
with my home brew balanced balanced antenna tuner....I have a lot of parts
with legs and want to build K8IQY's 2N40 rig.... There is a reprint of data
from na5n on alinement of the rig... If some one has the data I would be
willing to send a SASE and pay for zerox copies of the data....I tried e
mailing na5n but so far no results....so I am checking to see if someone has
the data....*
**
*Thanks...73..Ed
edn8wxl@gmail.com *
Hi Bob,
My $.02 worth on the transformer would be either way should work as
there are just 2 windings - primary and secondary. It is not like T1
where there is a tapped secondary and other msgs have indicated that
getting the wrong phasing can make the amplifier into an oscillator.
This is just my thoughts and the same goes for me - if I am wrong,
please correct my thoughts.
Good eyes on the C29, I would have missed that. I agree with the
schematic may be correct as other "power" supply resistors have the
capacitor on the circuit side.
For all on the group, Dans Small Parts may have the MV1662 diodes
at a reasonable price for now. I picked up a few as he is open again.
I just finished the audio pre-amp last night, I figure I had better
go slow so I avoid major misplaced components.
73 for now,
Ray - N5SEZ
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "ki8jm" wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
>
> I discovered the layout file you mentioned shortly after I started
> building and it has saved me some time placing components. I
noticed T6
> on the layout has pins 3 and 4 reversed compared to the schematic.
I'm
> not sure it would matter in this situation so someone with more
> knowledge will have to comment. Also C29 (to the right of T4) is
not in
> agreement with the schematic. I went by the schematic in both cases.
>
> I'm going to try to start on the VFO today.
>
> Good luck with the build.
>
> 72/73,
> Bob - KI8JM
>
bob parks wrote:
> 1. NA5N'S DATA ON K8IQY'S 2N40 CW TRANSCEVER
> Posted by: "Ed Jerome" edn8wxl@gmail.com
> Date: Thu Jul 31, 2008 7:12 am ((PDT))
>
> *Hi guys /gals my name is Ed Jerome an I am 70yrs old this year... I am
> getting back into ham radio and will up grade to general this fall... *
> *I have my loop up ...80 meters... fed with 450 line an matched to 50 ohms
> with my home brew balanced balanced antenna tuner....I have a lot of parts
> with legs and want to build K8IQY's 2N40 rig.... There is a reprint of data
> from na5n on alinement of the rig... If some one has the data I would be
> willing to send a SASE and pay for zerox copies of the data....I tried e
> mailing na5n but so far no results....so I am checking to see if someone has
> the data....*
> **
> *Thanks...73..Ed edn8wxl@gmail.com *
Ed,
Send me your mailing address and I will send you the last remaining NA5N reprint
of the article he and I did for QRPp back in the Winter of 1998 that you seek.
Once that one is mailed, I'm all out of reprints, so don't anyone else ask. I'll
have to say "NO" and I don't want to do that.
72/73,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Curt,
I only hope to be a great influence. This is my first project like
this and enjoying it very much.
73,
Ray - N5SEZ
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "russellhulett" wrote:
>
> Good to hear folks having success building this rig. I finished the
> receiver on mine several months ago but sensitivity was very low,
> never identified the problem, so took time off to build a K-2. The
> other folks building this rig make me want to pull the 2n2-20 back
out
> to try again.
>
> 72, Curt KB5JO
>
Hi Everyone,
I took a few voltage readings this morning and am a bit puzzled by one
of them. Applying 12.0 VDC I read 1.9 VDC at the base of Q10 and 1.5
VDC at the emitter giving a VBE of 0.4 VDC (VC was 5.7 VDC). I was
expecting .6 to .7 VDC. I am getting about 1.4 Vpp at R55. Is this
acceptable or do I have a problem to solve?
72/73,
Bob - KI8JM
|
3812|3802|2008-08-06 13:33:43|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-20 Build Status|russellhulett wrote:
> Good to hear folks having success building this rig. I finished the
> receiver on mine several months ago but sensitivity was very low,
> never identified the problem, so took time off to build a K-2. The
> other folks building this rig make me want to pull the 2n2-20 back out
> to try again.
>
> 72, Curt KB5JO
Do it Curt! You've got a least two other building it at the moment, so lots of
help and experience to help you.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
jacupoam03 wrote:
> Hi Bob,
>
> My $.02 worth on the transformer would be either way should work as
> there are just 2 windings - primary and secondary. It is not like T1
> where there is a tapped secondary and other msgs have indicated that
> getting the wrong phasing can make the amplifier into an oscillator.
Ray....you are correct. The only transformer that is critical in terms of
phasing is T1. That has to be correct of the amplifier turns into a rather
powerful oscillator.
> This is just my thoughts and the same goes for me - if I am wrong,
> please correct my thoughts.
>
> Good eyes on the C29, I would have missed that. I agree with the
> schematic may be correct as other "power" supply resistors have the
> capacitor on the circuit side.
Yes, C29 goes on the circuit side of the resistor to decouple the power.
>
> For all on the group, Dans Small Parts may have the MV1662 diodes
> at a reasonable price for now. I picked up a few as he is open again.
Hosfelt Electronics has them also at 3 for $1. About the best price one will
ever find for 275 pF varicap diodes. Every time I send them an order I get more
of them as they are such a bargain, and when they are sold out, there will be no
more of them.
>
> I just finished the audio pre-amp last night, I figure I had better
> go slow so I avoid major misplaced components.
Always a good way to build! :-)
>
> 73 for now,
> Ray - N5SEZ
72 and thanks for the updates guys,
Jim, K8IQY
ki8jm wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I took a few voltage readings this morning and am a bit puzzled by one
> of them. Applying 12.0 VDC I read 1.9 VDC at the base of Q10 and 1.5
> VDC at the emitter giving a VBE of 0.4 VDC (VC was 5.7 VDC).
Bob....if these are measurements on the LO, then I'm guessing that your DVM is
getting the wrong readings because of RF on the points that you measured. If you
were to measure these points with a scope, the readings would be as you
expected, with the base-emitter drop at 0.65 to 0.7 volts.
I was
> expecting .6 to .7 VDC. I am getting about 1.4 Vpp at R55.
This reading may be in error too if using a DVM. An RF probe will yield a better
reading and a scope will be spot on.
Is this
> acceptable or do I have a problem to solve?
It's probably just fine.
>
> 72/73,
> Bob - KI8JM
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Jim And Ray,
Thanks for the feedback on my questions and comments and for the tip
on using an RF choke on the DVM lead.
I didn't have the ADE-1 so I used an SRA-1 instead. The ADE-1 seems
to have slightly better specs, but I'm not sure my old ears will
notice any difference.
Well, off to tame the drift in my VFO...
72/73,
Bob - KI8JM
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> jacupoam03 wrote:
> > Hi Bob,
> >
> > My $.02 worth on the transformer would be either way should
work as
> > there are just 2 windings - primary and secondary. It is not
like T1
> > where there is a tapped secondary and other msgs have indicated
that
> > getting the wrong phasing can make the amplifier into an
oscillator.
>
> Ray....you are correct. The only transformer that is critical in
terms of
> phasing is T1. That has to be correct of the amplifier turns into a
rather
> powerful oscillator.
>
> > This is just my thoughts and the same goes for me - if I am
wrong,
> > please correct my thoughts.
> >
> > Good eyes on the C29, I would have missed that. I agree with
the
> > schematic may be correct as other "power" supply resistors have
the
> > capacitor on the circuit side.
>
> Yes, C29 goes on the circuit side of the resistor to decouple the
power.
>
> >
> > For all on the group, Dans Small Parts may have the MV1662
diodes
> > at a reasonable price for now. I picked up a few as he is open
again.
>
> Hosfelt Electronics has them also at 3 for $1. About the best price
one will
> ever find for 275 pF varicap diodes. Every time I send them an
order I get more
> of them as they are such a bargain, and when they are sold out,
there will be no
> more of them.
> >
> > I just finished the audio pre-amp last night, I figure I had
better
> > go slow so I avoid major misplaced components.
>
> Always a good way to build! :-)
>
> >
> > 73 for now,
> > Ray - N5SEZ
>
> 72 and thanks for the updates guys,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Just put 4 pictures in the N5SEZ photo album. I decided to
"bread-board" it.
Looking back on the 2 XO's, I wish I had scrunched the TX-mute and
the Audio PreAmp a bit to the left. When I got to the crystal
oscillators, I really had to shoe-horn the components in. I think if
I had used 1/4 to 1/2 inch more to the left, I would have had an
easier time. I took several days and it seems to be working.
I am trying to get a grip on a second waveform in at least the Rx
XO. My scope powers up with the horizontal resolution at 100 uS. It
displayed a pretty sine wave. The scope also can display a roughly
close frequency, it was indicating around 2.8 kHz. Hmmmm. I played
with the horizontal setting and at around 20 - 50 nS it changed to
11.0 MHz and displayed another nice sine wave. With a 9V battery, the
XO's are right around 730 mV P-P. Interesting thing, for both the
"2.8 kHz" and 11.0 MHz it was the same P-P. I think I need to see
where the 2.8 kHz is originating. This is a project for the next
several days.
72,73 for now,
Ray - N5SEZ
|
3817|3802|2008-08-07 06:50:23|ki8jm|Re: 2n2-20 Build Status|Hi Ray,
Nice pics! When I get a chance I'll post a few of mine. I also want
to post a few wave form pics so that we can compare what we are
seeing.
72,
Bob - KI8JM
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "jacupoam03" wrote:
>
> Just put 4 pictures in the N5SEZ photo album. I decided to
> "bread-board" it.
>
> Looking back on the 2 XO's, I wish I had scrunched the TX-mute and
> the Audio PreAmp a bit to the left. When I got to the crystal
> oscillators, I really had to shoe-horn the components in. I think
if
> I had used 1/4 to 1/2 inch more to the left, I would have had an
> easier time. I took several days and it seems to be working.
>
> I am trying to get a grip on a second waveform in at least the Rx
> XO. My scope powers up with the horizontal resolution at 100 uS.
It
> displayed a pretty sine wave. The scope also can display a roughly
> close frequency, it was indicating around 2.8 kHz. Hmmmm. I played
> with the horizontal setting and at around 20 - 50 nS it changed to
> 11.0 MHz and displayed another nice sine wave. With a 9V battery,
the
> XO's are right around 730 mV P-P. Interesting thing, for both the
> "2.8 kHz" and 11.0 MHz it was the same P-P. I think I need to see
> where the 2.8 kHz is originating. This is a project for the next
> several days.
>
> 72,73 for now,
> Ray - N5SEZ
>
Hi Bob,
Glad you liked the pics.
More info on the "2.8 kHz" signal from the XO. Last night, I
checked the Tx XO. It was reading 3.0 kHz. Hmmm, the thought plickens.
So I used my third hand to hold the scope probe on R55, adjusted TC7
and played with the horizontal scope setting. I saw the low frequency
swing between around 3 Hz on the low end to over 5 kHz on the high
end. Below 100 Hz, the frequency was very touchy and extremely so
below 20 Hz.
I am now thinking this may be an artifact of the amount of "pull"
TC7 and L7 have on the crystal (this may help explain why the signal
level was within a few millivolts of the 11.0 MHz signal).
There is this same (+/-) low frequency in a variety of forms at most
every node in the XO.
More testing later tonight. Ok, I may be side tracked from the
build, but... more answers to find the questions to.
72/73,
Ray - N5SEZ
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "ki8jm" wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
>
> Nice pics! When I get a chance I'll post a few of mine. I also want
> to post a few wave form pics so that we can compare what we are
> seeing.
>
> 72,
> Bob - KI8JM
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "jacupoam03" wrote:
> >
> > Just put 4 pictures in the N5SEZ photo album. I decided to
> > "bread-board" it.
> >
> > Looking back on the 2 XO's, I wish I had scrunched the TX-mute and
> > the Audio PreAmp a bit to the left. When I got to the crystal
> > oscillators, I really had to shoe-horn the components in. I think
> if
> > I had used 1/4 to 1/2 inch more to the left, I would have had an
> > easier time. I took several days and it seems to be working.
> >
> > I am trying to get a grip on a second waveform in at least the Rx
> > XO. My scope powers up with the horizontal resolution at 100 uS.
> It
> > displayed a pretty sine wave. The scope also can display a roughly
> > close frequency, it was indicating around 2.8 kHz. Hmmmm. I played
> > with the horizontal setting and at around 20 - 50 nS it changed to
> > 11.0 MHz and displayed another nice sine wave. With a 9V battery,
> the
> > XO's are right around 730 mV P-P. Interesting thing, for both the
> > "2.8 kHz" and 11.0 MHz it was the same P-P. I think I need to see
> > where the 2.8 kHz is originating. This is a project for the next
> > several days.
> >
> > 72,73 for now,
> > Ray - N5SEZ
> >
>
Hi Ray,
I haven't noticed any low freq sig there, but will take a closer
look. I'm getting about 480 mVpp at R55. I haven't built the Tx Local
Oscillator yet. I'll try to get some wave-form pics at various points
in my Rx Local Oscillator and post them tomorrow. I got carried away
building and almost forgot to take pics...
I now have a few pics posted in the KI8JM photo album.
72,
Bob - KI8JM
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "jacupoam03" wrote:
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> Glad you liked the pics.
>
> More info on the "2.8 kHz" signal from the XO. Last night, I
> checked the Tx XO. It was reading 3.0 kHz. Hmmm, the thought
plickens.
>
> So I used my third hand to hold the scope probe on R55, adjusted
TC7
> and played with the horizontal scope setting. I saw the low
frequency
> swing between around 3 Hz on the low end to over 5 kHz on the high
> end. Below 100 Hz, the frequency was very touchy and extremely so
> below 20 Hz.
>
> I am now thinking this may be an artifact of the amount of "pull"
> TC7 and L7 have on the crystal (this may help explain why the signal
> level was within a few millivolts of the 11.0 MHz signal).
>
> There is this same (+/-) low frequency in a variety of forms at
most
> every node in the XO.
>
> More testing later tonight. Ok, I may be side tracked from the
> build, but... more answers to find the questions to.
>
> 72/73,
> Ray - N5SEZ
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "ki8jm" wrote:
> >
> > Hi Ray,
> >
> > Nice pics! When I get a chance I'll post a few of mine. I also
want
> > to post a few wave form pics so that we can compare what we are
> > seeing.
> >
> > 72,
> > Bob - KI8JM
> >
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "jacupoam03" wrote:
> > >
> > > Just put 4 pictures in the N5SEZ photo album. I decided to
> > > "bread-board" it.
> > >
> > > Looking back on the 2 XO's, I wish I had scrunched the TX-
mute and
> > > the Audio PreAmp a bit to the left. When I got to the crystal
> > > oscillators, I really had to shoe-horn the components in. I
think
> > if
> > > I had used 1/4 to 1/2 inch more to the left, I would have had an
> > > easier time. I took several days and it seems to be working.
> > >
> > > I am trying to get a grip on a second waveform in at least
the Rx
> > > XO. My scope powers up with the horizontal resolution at 100
uS.
> > It
> > > displayed a pretty sine wave. The scope also can display a
roughly
> > > close frequency, it was indicating around 2.8 kHz. Hmmmm. I
played
> > > with the horizontal setting and at around 20 - 50 nS it changed
to
> > > 11.0 MHz and displayed another nice sine wave. With a 9V
battery,
> > the
> > > XO's are right around 730 mV P-P. Interesting thing, for both
the
> > > "2.8 kHz" and 11.0 MHz it was the same P-P. I think I need to
see
> > > where the 2.8 kHz is originating. This is a project for the
next
> > > several days.
> > >
> > > 72,73 for now,
> > > Ray - N5SEZ
> > >
> >
>
Hi Ray,
Correction on the voltage at R55. It is about 480 mVrms or 1.36 Vpp
estimated with my old Tek 465 scope...
72,
Bob - KI8JM
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "ki8jm" wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
>
> I haven't noticed any low freq sig there, but will take a closer
> look. I'm getting about 480 mVpp at R55. I haven't built the Tx
Local
> Oscillator yet. I'll try to get some wave-form pics at various
points
> in my Rx Local Oscillator and post them tomorrow. I got carried
away
> building and almost forgot to take pics...
>
> I now have a few pics posted in the KI8JM photo album.
>
> 72,
> Bob - KI8JM
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "jacupoam03" wrote:
> >
> > Hi Bob,
> >
> > Glad you liked the pics.
> >
> > More info on the "2.8 kHz" signal from the XO. Last night, I
> > checked the Tx XO. It was reading 3.0 kHz. Hmmm, the thought
> plickens.
> >
> > So I used my third hand to hold the scope probe on R55,
adjusted
> TC7
> > and played with the horizontal scope setting. I saw the low
> frequency
> > swing between around 3 Hz on the low end to over 5 kHz on the high
> > end. Below 100 Hz, the frequency was very touchy and extremely so
> > below 20 Hz.
> >
> > I am now thinking this may be an artifact of the amount
of "pull"
> > TC7 and L7 have on the crystal (this may help explain why the
signal
> > level was within a few millivolts of the 11.0 MHz signal).
> >
> > There is this same (+/-) low frequency in a variety of forms at
> most
> > every node in the XO.
> >
> > More testing later tonight. Ok, I may be side tracked from the
> > build, but... more answers to find the questions to.
> >
> > 72/73,
> > Ray - N5SEZ
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "ki8jm" wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Ray,
> > >
> > > Nice pics! When I get a chance I'll post a few of mine. I also
> want
> > > to post a few wave form pics so that we can compare what we are
> > > seeing.
> > >
> > > 72,
> > > Bob - KI8JM
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "jacupoam03" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Just put 4 pictures in the N5SEZ photo album. I decided to
> > > > "bread-board" it.
> > > >
> > > > Looking back on the 2 XO's, I wish I had scrunched the TX-
> mute and
> > > > the Audio PreAmp a bit to the left. When I got to the crystal
> > > > oscillators, I really had to shoe-horn the components in. I
> think
> > > if
> > > > I had used 1/4 to 1/2 inch more to the left, I would have had
an
> > > > easier time. I took several days and it seems to be working.
> > > >
> > > > I am trying to get a grip on a second waveform in at least
> the Rx
> > > > XO. My scope powers up with the horizontal resolution at 100
> uS.
> > > It
> > > > displayed a pretty sine wave. The scope also can display a
> roughly
> > > > close frequency, it was indicating around 2.8 kHz. Hmmmm. I
> played
> > > > with the horizontal setting and at around 20 - 50 nS it
changed
> to
> > > > 11.0 MHz and displayed another nice sine wave. With a 9V
> battery,
> > > the
> > > > XO's are right around 730 mV P-P. Interesting thing, for
both
> the
> > > > "2.8 kHz" and 11.0 MHz it was the same P-P. I think I need
to
> see
> > > > where the 2.8 kHz is originating. This is a project for the
> next
> > > > several days.
> > > >
> > > > 72,73 for now,
> > > > Ray - N5SEZ
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Bob,
Great pictures, thanks. Looks like you are doing a great job on
your build.
I am running on a 9V battery for the ~730 V P-P. If you are
running 12V, your voltages should be in the ball park.
I do not have an audio spectrum analyzer setup right now, that may
be another way to look at this low frequency signal. I am wondering
if I am spending too much time with this and should just proceed with
the build ;-}. I think I will press on and try to pick this up later.
72/73 for now,
Ray - N5SEZ
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "ki8jm" wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
>
> Correction on the voltage at R55. It is about 480 mVrms or 1.36 Vpp
> estimated with my old Tek 465 scope...
>
> 72,
> Bob - KI8JM
>
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "ki8jm" wrote:
> >
> > Hi Ray,
> >
> > I haven't noticed any low freq sig there, but will take a closer
> > look. I'm getting about 480 mVpp at R55. I haven't built the Tx
> Local
> > Oscillator yet. I'll try to get some wave-form pics at various
> points
> > in my Rx Local Oscillator and post them tomorrow. I got carried
> away
> > building and almost forgot to take pics...
> >
> > I now have a few pics posted in the KI8JM photo album.
> >
> > 72,
> > Bob - KI8JM
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
>
> Do it Curt! You've got a least two other building it at the
moment, so lots of
> help and experience to help you.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Hi Curt,
Any luck with your 2n2-20? I probably don't know enough to help, but
am willing to compare pics, wave forms, and voltage levels.
Jim has designed an amazing rig and I am learning a lot building it.
I don't mind when things don't work right as that provides me an
opportunity to learn, and I definitely have a lot to learn...
72/73,
Bob - KI8JM--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "ki8jm"
wrote:
> Hi Curt,
>
> Any luck with your 2n2-20? I probably don't know enough to help, but
> am willing to compare pics, wave forms, and voltage levels.
>
> Jim has designed an amazing rig and I am learning a lot building it.
> I don't mind when things don't work right as that provides me an
> opportunity to learn, and I definitely have a lot to learn...
>
> 72/73,
> Bob - KI8JM
>
Apologies, too many other things going on here, grandkids have
priority for so the yet-to-be 2n2-20 hasn't made it back onto the
bench, probably won't for awhile. Also have a Ten Tec 40 QRP kit with
oscillation in the PA to maybe work on some day as well whenever the
round-to-it arrives. These are my two failures among many successes,
hard to work up enthusiasm to bang my head against the wall some more.
I'll probably wait until eventually own a scope before worrying with
either, don't have any wave forms to compare.
I think this was just a bridge too far for me what with manhattan
construction first time, complex build-from-scratch first time.
Appreciate your offer to help, best of luck with the project.
72, Curtki8jm wrote:
> Hi Jim And Ray,
>
> Thanks for the feedback on my questions and comments and for the tip
> on using an RF choke on the DVM lead.
I've not tried that actually, but it should work. I know all of my DVM's go nuts
when I try to measure DC with RF present.
>
> I didn't have the ADE-1 so I used an SRA-1 instead.
That will work fine, in fact, any commercial level 7 or level 10 DBM should work
just fine, with the level 7 probably being a bit better with the available drive
level.
The ADE-1 seems
> to have slightly better specs, but I'm not sure my old ears will
> notice any difference.
Agreed. You won't hear the difference.
>
> Well, off to tame the drift in my VFO...
Hmmm......it's not supposed to drift! :-) But it might if different components
are used from what I used. Not a big deal to tame though, some N150 capacitors
in the right places usually get the job done.
72/73,
Jim, K8IQY
BTW, someone wrote that they were running the rig on 9 volts. That's probably
not a good thing to do, as it was designed for 13.8 and will work reliably down
to about 10, but 9 volts is probably too low for good performance. The design is
untested at that level.
Hi Ray,
I have noticed that my audio output is riding on 60Hz that is
probably being picked up by all the clip-leads that I use to hook
things up for testing. Is it possible that you are picking up some
noise from nearby sources? I also noticed the other day that when my
watch (battery powered analog) was near the Rx LO that I could hear
it ticking in the speaker.
72/73,
Bob - KI8JM
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "jacupoam03" wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> Great pictures, thanks. Looks like you are doing a great job on
> your build.
>
> I am running on a 9V battery for the ~730 V P-P. If you are
> running 12V, your voltages should be in the ball park.
>
> I do not have an audio spectrum analyzer setup right now, that
may
> be another way to look at this low frequency signal. I am
wondering
> if I am spending too much time with this and should just proceed
with
> the build ;-}. I think I will press on and try to pick this up
later.
>
> 72/73 for now,
> Ray - N5SEZ
>
Hi Jim,
I am up to the Rx T/R Switch and noticed that the K3PEG layout is
missing R90, C95, and C96. I will stick with the schematic and
continue building unless instructed otherwise.
72/73,
Bob - KI8JM
|
3827|3827|2008-08-21 19:24:10|ki8jm|Alignment of 2n2/20|Jim,
Is there any information available on aligning the Rx portion of the
2n2/20? I would like to make sure that the tweaking I've done is
reasonable and that I am not overlooking something.
72/73,
Bob - KI8JM
|
3828|3827|2008-08-25 10:08:04|Jim Kortge|Re: Alignment of 2n2/20|ki8jm wrote:
> Jim,
Hi bob,
>
> Is there any information available on aligning the Rx portion of the
> 2n2/20?
Not really, but the little blurb that I wrote for the 2N2/40+ is applicable for
the LO alignment. You just have to remember that the IF is different, but the
setup between the two receivers is the same, the filter is being used as an
upper sideband filter, which puts the LO below the center of the crystal filter.
All of the rest of the Rx alignment is just peaking the input bandpass filter
trimmers for maximum signal mid-band and peaking the IF trimmer.
I've attached the 40-meter alignment to this reply.
I would like to make sure that the tweaking I've done is
> reasonable and that I am not overlooking something.
Probably not, but I don't know what you've done! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the info, I wasn't sure on which side of the Xtal filter
to place the LO. I believe I have it on the wrong side and will make
the change.
72/73,
Bob - KI8JM
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> ki8jm wrote:
> > Jim,
>
> Hi bob,
>
>
> >
> > Is there any information available on aligning the Rx portion of
the
> > 2n2/20?
>
> Not really, but the little blurb that I wrote for the 2N2/40+ is
applicable for
> the LO alignment. You just have to remember that the IF is
different, but the
> setup between the two receivers is the same, the filter is being
used as an
> upper sideband filter, which puts the LO below the center of the
crystal filter.
> All of the rest of the Rx alignment is just peaking the input
bandpass filter
> trimmers for maximum signal mid-band and peaking the IF trimmer.
>
> I've attached the 40-meter alignment to this reply.
>
> I would like to make sure that the tweaking I've done is
> > reasonable and that I am not overlooking something.
>
> Probably not, but I don't know what you've done! :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Bob and group,
Sorry about the missing components and misplaced bypass cap. I'll make
the necessary corrections and post a new layout revision this week. I
had checked the layout myself and had someone else do the same. I do
make mistakes.
I have been ill and apart from the NorCal 2n2-XX beta build I've been
out-of-touch with a lot of things for the last 9 months. I just got
back to 'employed' work in June.
I ask that someone check my new layout after it's posted and report to
me and the group before it's accepted as being correct.
Thanks and 73,
Larry K3PEG
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "ki8jm" wrote:
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> I am up to the Rx T/R Switch and noticed that the K3PEG layout is
> missing R90, C95, and C96. I will stick with the schematic and
> continue building unless instructed otherwise.
>
> 72/73,
> Bob - KI8JM
>
Guys,
I now see the problem.
My 2n2_20 illustrated, EM layout was based on the K8IQY 10/22/04,
2n2_20 design. That is stated on my layout even though it's dated May
5, 2005 under my call sign. I did take a while for me to complete the
layout :>).
I see that a later 2n2_20 design, dated March 8, 2005, is posted on
Jim's website. It has a variable RX RF gain, mine did not. I'll make a
new, updated 2n2_20 layout at time permits. I know about C29 being
misplaced.
Jim and gang:
I ask of all of you who have built or intend to build the 2n2_40+ or
2n2_20 rigs using my EM layouts, are their any other errors or changes
that I need to address?
73,
Larry
|
3832|3802|2008-08-30 15:45:35|Hank Greeb|2n2xx PCB/Kit status?|Did I miss something, or has there been a delay in production of the
2n2xx PCB's and kits?
I was interested in finding the details.
Haven't decided if I want to tackle the project, but it sounded interesting.
I didn't want to try a Manhattan style product.
72/73 de n8xx Hg
|
3833|3802|2008-08-30 16:35:00|Lee Mairs (SAG)|Re: 2n2xx PCB/Kit status?|You are missing out on a great thing by not trying Manhattan construction.
I fretted about it at first, but it has opened a big door onto a neat
technique for throwing together a circuit in a hurry for experimentation.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
Hank Greeb wrote:
> Did I miss something, or has there been a delay in production of the
> 2n2xx PCB's and kits?
>
> I was interested in finding the details.
>
> Haven't decided if I want to tackle the project, but it sounded interesting.
>
> I didn't want to try a Manhattan style product.
>
> 72/73 de n8xx Hg
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
Yep, I know, but I got my fill of experimentation in the 50's and 60's. :)
If I want to experiment, I'll purchase the next round of kits by KD1JV -
his ATS-3b looks like a neat rig for a person who doesn't want to lug
around a boat anchor like I currently use (Drake TR-5, and Drake TR-7)
I have built a few things from scratch since 1970, mainly impedance
matching devices to convert the impedance at the feedpoint of my
antennae to 50 ohms, and a few Packet radio related items, but....
72/73 de n8xx Hg
Lee Mairs (SAG) wrote:
> You are missing out on a great thing by not trying Manhattan construction. I fretted about it at first, but it has opened a big door onto a neat technique for throwing together a circuit in a hurry for experimentation.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY/8
>
> Hank Greeb wrote:
>
>> Did I miss something, or has there been a delay in production of the 2n2xx PCB's and kits?
>>
>> I was interested in finding the details.
>>
>> Haven't decided if I want to tackle the project, but it sounded interesting.
>>
>> I didn't want to try a Manhattan style product.
>>
>> 72/73 de n8xx Hg
Hello Larry,
> Sorry about the missing components and misplaced bypass cap. I'll make
> the necessary corrections and post a new layout revision this week. I
> had checked the layout myself and had someone else do the same. I do
> make mistakes.
I discovered your layout after I had already started building, and it
has saved me a tremendous amount of time. Thank you for taking the
time to create it and to share it with the group.
> I have been ill and apart from the NorCal 2n2-XX beta build I've been
> out-of-touch with a lot of things for the last 9 months. I just got
> back to 'employed' work in June.
Sorry to hear that you have been ill and I hope that you are well on
the way to recovery.
> I ask that someone check my new layout after it's posted and report to
> me and the group before it's accepted as being correct.
I'll watch for it to be posted and will compare it with the schematic
as quickly as I can. I'm back to work after summer vacation (I teach
high school mathematics) so hobby time is now somewhat limited...
> Thanks and 73,
> Larry K3PEG
Take care and 72/73,
Bob - KI8JM
Hank Greeb wrote:
> Did I miss something, or has there been a delay in production of the
> 2n2xx PCB's and kits?
Well yes and no. We had some unexpected long delays in being able to get
certain parts and that pushed back the schedule a lot. We are almost there and
I'm guessing that you will see an announcement about the 2N2/XX kit availability
sometime in the very near future. That's all of the info I'm allow to release! :-)
Bare PCB's will not be available; only the complete kits with PCB, all parts,
and a lovely, custom case made for us by TenTec.
>
> I was interested in finding the details.
Which ones? My 2007 Pacificon paper (on the Norcal web site) has most of the
technical details about the 2N2/XX rigs that will be available.
>
> Haven't decided if I want to tackle the project, but it sounded interesting.
It's a great rig. I know, I designed it and have built one on each of the
available bands, namely 20, 30, and 40 meters.
>
> I didn't want to try a Manhattan style product.
Those work very well too!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks, Jim:
I just wanted to confirm that the kits hadn't been shipped yet.
I trust that "Real Soon Now" will turn into reality very soon. :)
Hg
Jim Kortge wrote:
> Hank Greeb wrote:
>
>> Did I miss something, or has there been a delay in production of the
>> 2n2xx PCB's and kits?
>>
>
> Well yes and no. We had some unexpected long delays in being able to get
> certain parts and that pushed back the schedule a lot. We are almost there and
> I'm guessing that you will see an announcement about the 2N2/XX kit availability
> sometime in the very near future. That's all of the info I'm allow to release! :-)
>
> Bare PCB's will not be available; only the complete kits with PCB, all parts,
> and a lovely, custom case made for us by TenTec.
>
>> I was interested in finding the details.
>>
>
> Which ones? My 2007 Pacificon paper (on the Norcal web site) has most of the
> technical details about the 2N2/XX rigs that will be available.
>
>> Haven't decided if I want to tackle the project, but it sounded interesting.
>>
>
> It's a great rig. I know, I designed it and have built one on each of the
> available bands, namely 20, 30, and 40 meters.
>
>> I didn't want to try a Manhattan style product.
>>
>
> Those work very well too!
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Hi
I am a new member just joined to this group and am looking to build
the 2n2-40+ manhatten style.
There are a few questions that I would appreciate answers to.
1. Can I substitute a 10K 10 turn pot for the 20K as that is what I
have in my junk box. What else do I need to modify in the circuit to
get the correct o/p voltage to the varicap diode?
2. The toriods on the circuits are numbered. How does this relate to a
circuit where the "Dots" denote the phasing relationship or does this
not matter in this type of rig.
3. The diode ring mixers use 1n4148 diodes, do these need to be
matched for nearest voltage drop for each diode, is this important? I
do not see any mention of this on any links to various 2n2 builders
websites.
Sorry, for the list of questions, just trying to get my head around
this construction project for the frst time.
Ivan
G0BON
|
3839|3838|2008-09-05 20:32:05|Jim Kortge|2n2-40+ New Group Member with questions|Ivan Rogers wrote:
> Hi
Greetings Ivan,
>
> I am a new member just joined to this group and am looking to build
> the 2n2-40+ manhatten style.
Welcome aboard!
>
> There are a few questions that I would appreciate answers to.
>
> 1. Can I substitute a 10K 10 turn pot for the 20K as that is what I
> have in my junk box.
Yes, it will work just fine.
What else do I need to modify in the circuit to
> get the correct o/p voltage to the varicap diode?
Nothing except the resistor that parallels the wiper to one end. I don't have a
schematic in front of me, so can't remember what value that is for the 20K pot.
Using a 10K pot, that resistor needs to be 1/2 the value of the resistor used
with the 20K pot.
>
> 2. The toriods on the circuits are numbered.
1 & 2 would be the start and finish of a winding. Most of the time, dots denote
the start of a winding, as I understand that convention.
How does this relate to a
> circuit where the "Dots" denote the phasing relationship or does this
> not matter in this type of rig.
The phasing isn't critical in this rig except for the trifilar wound
transformers. Those have to be right for the rig to work correctly. Winding
bifilar and trifilar windings using either 2 or 3 different colors of magnet
wire really helps keep the windings and their ends correct so that the final
connections among the windings are correct.
>
> 3. The diode ring mixers use 1n4148 diodes, do these need to be
> matched for nearest voltage drop for each diode, is this important?
It doesn't have to be done, but the better matched the diodes are, the better
the mixer will work. I usually drive each diode with a 12 volt source through a
10K resistor and measure the voltage drop across the diode in the forward
conducting direction. If the diodes are matched to within 1 millivolt of each
other, the mixer will perform very well. And no, I don't have any data showing
the degradation when the diodes are not well matched! :-)
I
> do not see any mention of this on any links to various 2n2 builders
> websites.
Can't remember if I written anything about that issue either.
>
> Sorry, for the list of questions, just trying to get my head around
> this construction project for the frst time.
Not a problem. We like questions. BTW, there will be commercially produced
versions of the 2N2/40+, 2N2/30, and 2N2/20 coming from NorCal in the near
future if you don't want to completely home brew a rig. The new 2N2/XX uses a
PCB, all through-hole parts except the mixers, and includes everything for the
rig. Nothing to buy! That said, you'll never do anything more satisfying in ham
radio than building a transceiver from scratch. Nothing compares when it is
finished and works and you got all of the parts and did all of the work. The
other 2N2 builders will tell you that down to the last person.
73 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim
Thanks for the answers
The 10K pot will for sure save me some bucks.
Thanks for the info for the forthcoming kits. But I am going to build
from scatch. Will be more of a learning process and it will be easier
to modify if necessary, also I will have the satisfaction of operating
a rig with my own personel touch to it.
Regards
Ivan
G0BON
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> Ivan Rogers wrote:
> > Hi
>
> Greetings Ivan,
>
> >
> > I am a new member just joined to this group and am looking to build
> > the 2n2-40+ manhatten style.
>
> Welcome aboard!
> >
> > There are a few questions that I would appreciate answers to.
> >
> > 1. Can I substitute a 10K 10 turn pot for the 20K as that is what I
> > have in my junk box.
>
> Yes, it will work just fine.
>
> What else do I need to modify in the circuit to
> > get the correct o/p voltage to the varicap diode?
>
> Nothing except the resistor that parallels the wiper to one end. I
don't have a
> schematic in front of me, so can't remember what value that is for
the 20K pot.
> Using a 10K pot, that resistor needs to be 1/2 the value of the
resistor used
> with the 20K pot.
>
> >
> > 2. The toriods on the circuits are numbered.
>
> 1 & 2 would be the start and finish of a winding. Most of the time,
dots denote
> the start of a winding, as I understand that convention.
>
> How does this relate to a
> > circuit where the "Dots" denote the phasing relationship or does this
> > not matter in this type of rig.
>
> The phasing isn't critical in this rig except for the trifilar wound
> transformers. Those have to be right for the rig to work correctly.
Winding
> bifilar and trifilar windings using either 2 or 3 different colors
of magnet
> wire really helps keep the windings and their ends correct so that
the final
> connections among the windings are correct.
> >
> > 3. The diode ring mixers use 1n4148 diodes, do these need to be
> > matched for nearest voltage drop for each diode, is this important?
>
> It doesn't have to be done, but the better matched the diodes are,
the better
> the mixer will work. I usually drive each diode with a 12 volt
source through a
> 10K resistor and measure the voltage drop across the diode in the
forward
> conducting direction. If the diodes are matched to within 1
millivolt of each
> other, the mixer will perform very well. And no, I don't have any
data showing
> the degradation when the diodes are not well matched! :-)
>
> I
> > do not see any mention of this on any links to various 2n2 builders
> > websites.
>
> Can't remember if I written anything about that issue either.
>
> >
> > Sorry, for the list of questions, just trying to get my head around
> > this construction project for the frst time.
>
> Not a problem. We like questions. BTW, there will be commercially
produced
> versions of the 2N2/40+, 2N2/30, and 2N2/20 coming from NorCal in
the near
> future if you don't want to completely home brew a rig. The new
2N2/XX uses a
> PCB, all through-hole parts except the mixers, and includes
everything for the
> rig. Nothing to buy! That said, you'll never do anything more
satisfying in ham
> radio than building a transceiver from scratch. Nothing compares
when it is
> finished and works and you got all of the parts and did all of the
work. The
> other 2N2 builders will tell you that down to the last person.
>
> 73 and kind regards,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Hi Ivan,
Welcome to the group.
I recently completed the Rx portion of the 2n2/20 and it works quite
well. I did not have a 20k 10 turn pot so I connected two 10k single
turn pots in series. It seems to be working okay with that
arrangement. Work has me pretty busy at present so the Tx portion may
have to wait a while.
Good luck with the build.
Bob - KI8JM
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Ivan Rogers" wrote:
>
> Jim
>
> Thanks for the answers
>
> The 10K pot will for sure save me some bucks.
>
> Thanks for the info for the forthcoming kits. But I am going to build
> from scatch. Will be more of a learning process and it will be easier
> to modify if necessary, also I will have the satisfaction of operating
> a rig with my own personel touch to it.
>
> Regards
> Ivan
> G0BON
Well I have all my components and built up the VFO.
Good news is the VFO is oscillating. and the divisions on the scope
show about .5uS = approx 2Mhz.
Bad news, with my Scope probe on T5 O/P I am only getting 240mV Pk-Pk.
(I am using 100R resistor as the load)
What do I need to check for. Does any one have a circuit with pk-pk
values for each transistor stage preceding the TF tansformer.
Regards
Ivan
G0BON
|
3843|3843|2008-10-01 17:00:43|Ivan Rogers|2N2-40+ Receiver Completed|WOW! Just completed the RX section, and can hear european CW stns!!!
Am having a great time with Manhatten construction, and using discrete
components makes it even better.
What a thrill.
Ivan
G0BON
|
3844|3843|2008-10-01 17:53:38|Lee Mairs (SAG)|Re: 2N2-40+ Receiver Completed|I know exactly how you feel!. My 2N2-40 is the best thing I've ever
done in 50+ years of amateur radio!
73 de Lee
NNN0IOF
Ivan Rogers wrote:
> WOW! Just completed the RX section, and can hear european CW stns!!!
>
> Am having a great time with Manhatten construction, and using discrete
> components makes it even better.
>
> What a thrill.
>
> Ivan
>
> G0BON
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
ivan.rogers wrote:
> Dear Jim
Greetings Ivan,
>
> WOW! Got my 1st QSO on the 2N2-40+ build
How wonderful! I knew you would finish your rig and get it on the air. I'm
thrilled for you.
>
> I have bought the Freq-mite from Small wonder labs, Where is the best place to tap off the frequency? Is it best from the TX VFO point via say a 100pf cap? Suggestions please.
I think the best way would be to add another single turn winding to the VFO
output stage transformer. All you would need to do is push a wire through the
center of the core and solder that end to ground, and then take the free end
directly to the Freq-mite. I think you'll get plenty of drive for the readout,
and the readout has a 22pF capacitor on its input, so no additional capacitor
required.
>
> Here is a final summary of my problems and solutions.
>
> Finished TX off, Blew up final amps and replaced with spares.
I've done that more than a few times. 2N2222A are nice, but don't like high
SWR. The collector breakdown voltage is only 40 volts if I remember correctly.
With high SWR, one can exceed that. When I've fried mine, there was just a
"click" sound and they were toast! :-)
Then found that one of the polysterene O/P filter caps had gone short circuit
to ground.
> (I didn't have silva mica in the junk box so used polysterene. I since discovered from an electronics engineer from work that polysterene caps can go short circuit if too much prolonged heat is applied when soldering)
Yes, that is true, but polystyrene are really high Q or low loss, so work well
in filters unless they are shorted. Their construction is a bit fragile.
>
> Happy with TX
Good....
>
> Now to solve RX problems.
> Notice there was a lack of sensitivity of CW stations, Audio section is fine as there is plenty of background noise coming through.
>
> Found the problem the T3 And T4 Trifilar toriods only had 8 turns on, Rewired with 10 turns and bingo, WOW! the CW stations came in really loud.
I'm wondering if it really was 8 vs 10 turns. That normally wouldn't make much
of a difference, but having all of the leads connected correctly certainly can.
Most of the problems with 2N2/40+ rigs that didn't work right was because of not
having those two transformers wound or connected correctly. Sometimes is was
soldering too, but the same transformers were involved but the coating on the
magnet wire wasn't sufficiently clean to make a good joint.
> Checked VFO drive to T4/1 and was a tad under 1.2vpk-pk which is right on the money.
Yes, that's the right value.
>
> Tried calling a few stations but no replies, am getting a buzzing sound when keying down. Suspect my receive frequency is well off.
Actually, that sounds like the Tx LO needed to be adjusted so that you could
hear the Tx signal in the receiver passband.
>
> Checked the alignent of the RX osc, using my IC-735 as a test TXCR. I keyed down to find where my sig was on the test TXVR and then keyed the test TXVR to find the receive signal on the 2n2. Teaked the RX osc pot to get approx 700hz tone.
>
> Keying down the 2n2, now I get a nice tone instead of a buzz.
OK, but now I'm wondering if the receiver LO is adjusted correctly to put the
incoming signal in the center of the crystal filter. Normally, you would align
the receiver for the strongest signal by tweaking the receiver LO and retuning
on an incoming signal until it is at the right tone for your ears and is the
strongest. Then, key the transmitter and adjust the transmit LO so that the tone
matches that heard in the receiver when centered on an incoming signal. I hope
that makes sense. The sidetone in the rig is the receiver listening to the
transmit signal.
>
> Went to find a CW station calling CQ and found LY70LRMD (Latvia), called him and got the obligatory 599, but hey 1st QSO was made on the bench.
Nice DX for your first contact! I've done that with the 2n2/30 and 2N2/20 rigs,
a DX station for my first contact.
> Just need to put the Manhatten board into a box.
Yes, but it is fun to run it out on the bench naked for a while with all of the
controls hanging there. I've done that for weeks on some of my rigs as I
couldn't bring myself to shutting it down to put it into a case.
>
> I am just such a happy chappy,
Well I'm glad to hear that. You've done such a fine job building this rig.
I cannot tell you how much frustration I have had in trying to get a 7Mhz rig
working this year.
An even better reason to celebrate eh? You've finally slayed that dragon.
> With the Yahoo group and your invaluable advise I could a least get to the root of the problems quite quickly.
The Yahoo gang are a great bunch and have a lot of practical experience building
their rigs and solving many of the same problems. We all learn that way too, so
that's part of the fun.
>
> Jim, you are such inspiration to homebrewers like me and its been great to actually build an operational rig at last.
Thank you for you kind comments. Getting emails like yours and knowing that
another 2N2/40+ is on the air just takes my breadth away. Talk about a rush! :-)
I hope we have a chance to work 2N2/40+ to 2N2/40+ sometime. That would be a
thrill indeed.
72 and kind regards my friend; keep up the good work and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
PS...I'm going to post your email to the 2n2-40 group so they can share in your
success.
>> WOW! Got my 1st QSO on the 2N2-40+ build
Congratulations !
It must be 5 or 6 years since I finished my first 2n2-xx and I still
get a buzz from every QSO.
Will you be at the G-QRP Convention on 18 October - it would be good
to see your rig !
73
Steve, G4GXL
--
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KY7S, Jeff wrote:
> Wow Jim, its actually you that approved my joining
Yes it is...I now run the 2n2-40 Yahoo group, although I'm not the one that
started it. One of the very early 2N2/40 builders started it, but passed the
ownership to me a few years back.
- this is exciting. I
> have been trying to find you for quite a while.
Oh heck, I'm easy to find. I just did a Google search on k8iqy and it has my
Manhattan Madness web site as the first hit!
I have sent emails to all
> your previous email addresses that I could find from google searches and
> norcal mtg minutes, etc. from past years related to the 2n2-40. I have
> searched them all to no avail, all dead ends.
Well I have to admit there are more than a few broken links to me, but I always
thought searching on my call got to me quite quickly. Anyway, glad you found me.
>
> I am finalizing an order from Dan's small parts so I can build a Manhattan
> version since I missed all the fun. I am trying to find a bill of materials
> for the Manhattan version. Do you happen to have one?
I believe there is some version of the 2N2/40 or 2N2/40+ bill of material on the
2n2-40 group site. You'll have to do some snooping around in the files section
to find it.
I found the copper
> at Dan's but don't know if I am supposed to build on single
Single sided is just fine and usually less expensive.
or double sided
> pieces, also early versions were done with the pads glued on, but now Dan
> has the little island pad bits so I guess I don't need pads if I build at
> this point, right?
Dan's pad aren't very good in they are just small scraps of PC board material
and not a uniform shape or size. I still make my own round pads with a Harbor
Freight Tools hand punch or rectangular pads with my old trusty ADEL nibbling
tool. Both work wonderfully well and I still glue the pads down with the
cheapest, thinnest CA glue that I can find.
I better get on the yahoo site and ask my questions or I
> will waste your time.
Its nice when the builders use the site as others then benefit from knowing that
someone is building a rig, and might join in, or at least offer comments. Lots
of building experience in that group at this point in time.
>
> Thanks so much, and by the way, I saw the announcement this morning from
> Doug on qrp-tech about your latest version available from NORCAL Tuesday at
> 7:00 AM pacific (I think) in 20, 30, and 40 meter versions. I am NOT going
> to miss out on the next round of fun with you, chuck
Who is Chuck? I'm having a senior moment!
and the gang so I am
> ordering all three.
Seems like a lot of interest since that announcement in all three flavors of the
rig. I've built 4 of them so far, so I'm getting fairly good at putting together
2N2/XX rigs! :-) The performance of this updated design is very nice. You
could also build one Manhattan-style if you didn't want to go the kit route,
although, getting all of the parts for what NorCal is selling the kits for is a
real bargain. All of the documentation for the rigs is on the NorCal web site.
>
> Thanks again,
You bet. Have fun and keep us all posted on what you are doing.
72/73 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
Chuck Adams, N7QO - sorry about that. I tried all last week to open your
website, but it wouldn't open and I sent you an email about it as well to a
no longer valid address. I was at work, so maybe that affected my ability
to access it, but it does not affect anything else. Nevertheless, I just
tried it and it works fine from home so no problem now.
I will dig through your site and figure out what I am doing.
Thanks again,
Jeff
KY7S
_____
From:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Jim Kortge
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 4:40 PM
To: Jeff
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: APPROVE -- kiloyankee7sierra <
ithink1@charter.net>
wants to join 2n2-40
KY7S, Jeff wrote:
> Wow Jim, its actually you that approved my joining
Yes it is...I now run the 2n2-40 Yahoo group, although I'm not the one that
started it. One of the very early 2N2/40 builders started it, but passed the
ownership to me a few years back.
- this is exciting. I
> have been trying to find you for quite a while.
Oh heck, I'm easy to find. I just did a Google search on k8iqy and it has my
Manhattan Madness web site as the first hit!
I have sent emails to all
> your previous email addresses that I could find from google searches and
> norcal mtg minutes, etc. from past years related to the 2n2-40. I have
> searched them all to no avail, all dead ends.
Well I have to admit there are more than a few broken links to me, but I
always
thought searching on my call got to me quite quickly. Anyway, glad you found
me.
>
> I am finalizing an order from Dan's small parts so I can build a Manhattan
> version since I missed all the fun. I am trying to find a bill of
materials
> for the Manhattan version. Do you happen to have one?
I believe there is some version of the 2N2/40 or 2N2/40+ bill of material on
the
2n2-40 group site. You'll have to do some snooping around in the files
section
to find it.
I found the copper
> at Dan's but don't know if I am supposed to build on single
Single sided is just fine and usually less expensive.
or double sided
> pieces, also early versions were done with the pads glued on, but now Dan
> has the little island pad bits so I guess I don't need pads if I build at
> this point, right?
Dan's pad aren't very good in they are just small scraps of PC board
material
and not a uniform shape or size. I still make my own round pads with a
Harbor
Freight Tools hand punch or rectangular pads with my old trusty ADEL
nibbling
tool. Both work wonderfully well and I still glue the pads down with the
cheapest, thinnest CA glue that I can find.
I better get on the yahoo site and ask my questions or I
> will waste your time.
Its nice when the builders use the site as others then benefit from knowing
that
someone is building a rig, and might join in, or at least offer comments.
Lots
of building experience in that group at this point in time.
>
> Thanks so much, and by the way, I saw the announcement this morning from
> Doug on qrp-tech about your latest version available from NORCAL Tuesday
at
> 7:00 AM pacific (I think) in 20, 30, and 40 meter versions. I am NOT going
> to miss out on the next round of fun with you, chuck
Who is Chuck? I'm having a senior moment!
and the gang so I am
> ordering all three.
Seems like a lot of interest since that announcement in all three flavors of
the
rig. I've built 4 of them so far, so I'm getting fairly good at putting
together
2N2/XX rigs! :-) The performance of this updated design is very nice. You
could also build one Manhattan-style if you didn't want to go the kit route,
although, getting all of the parts for what NorCal is selling the kits for
is a
real bargain. All of the documentation for the rigs is on the NorCal web
site.
>
> Thanks again,
You bet. Have fun and keep us all posted on what you are doing.
72/73 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Gang,
Thought some of you would be interested in the prototype PCB that my friend
Peter, is working on. Looks interesting and I'm sure more details will follow.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
PS...here is Peter's email address:
pmgant@nextra.hu -------------Original email-----------------------------------------
Attention 'Manhattan' Constructors
I am currently negotiating with a manufacturer of perf board for the production
of a special run of Eurocard PCB's (100mm x 160mm or 3.93 inches x 6.3 inches).
These cards will have the copper strips present BUT WITHOUT THE HOLES, they will
therefore be ideal for making the pads underneath IC sockets and any other
device in a DIP package.
There will be an initial production run of fifty PCBs at a price of 4.03 GBP
plus carriage and these boards will sold directly by the manufacturer (they can
restock quickly if there is demand). There is a minimum order of four boards. I
do not know if this product will become a success but if it does then a further
(larger) run may follow. If you are interested in this product please send an
email to
manhattanpcb@gmail.com and indicate how many PCBs you would be
interested in purchasing. The fate of this product is therefore in your hands.
Amateurs should note that I will make nothing from this deal. The manufacturer
is making this sample production run after an initial suggestion from me as they
are seeking new products to bring to market.
Thanks in advance.
Peter M Gant HA5RXZ
Budapest
------------------------------------------------------------------------
ivan.rogers wrote:
> Dear Jim
Greetings Ivan,
>
> I am trying to expand the RIT Range on my 2N2. I am only getting about 100hz shift with the normal components fitted.
I certainly ought to be more than that. More on the order of 1.5 to 2 KHz
end-to-end.
>
> Here are my measurements.
>
> Main tuning pot High end - 6.52V
> Main tuning pot Low end - 0.68V
Those look right.
>
> RIT pot High End - 3.58V
> RIT pot Low End - 3.55V
Ooops, those measurements are what I would expect when in transmit more, with
the Q23 PN2222 conducting. Do you have the Tx line to the RIT from the Tx
voltage source? It looks like the RIT Tx line is connected to the Rx line, so
that the RIT is always shorted out and can't work.
>
> The 1k5 resistors each end of the pot actually measure 1k5. (so OK here)
> The 1K RIT pot actually measures 880R
Those are close enough for government work! :-)
>
> My 6V2 zener actually measures 5.82V across it (Should I replace with a closer toleranced type???)
No, that isn't the problem.
>
> Are the above voltages in the area that you would expect?
No, I would expect to see a lot more voltage across the RIT pot in receive mode.
Something along the lines of 1.5 volts across the RIT pot when in receive mode.
Q23 is conducting on receive or is shorted. That's where the problem is.
>
> I tried paralleling a 100pf cap across the trimmer and that brought the shift up to 500Hz, but that is defeating the object if there is something amis elsewhere in the RIT circuit.
Agreed. See my other comment about the RIT pot being shorter out by the
transistor across it.
>
> I have checked my pcb layout for errors and all seems to be OK.
I think you've missed something.... :-)
>
> As an aside, I am having a ball working plenty of european stations.
Great! Let's get the RIT working so you can chase DX that are working offsets.
72 and Good Luck,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim and group,
Problem solved, removed Q24 from board to isolate TX/RX
switch from RIT circuit.
TX O/P from TX/RX switch circuit is fine.
High end of RIT pot is 4.35V low end 2.99V (1.35V difference) which is OK.
Deduced then that I had a bad 2N2000 or fried it with static.
Replaced with a BS170 FET from the junk box and still had strange
voltages, removed that one and replaced with another BS170 taking care
that my hand was grounded on the chassis while handling the device.
Bingo! this one works.
Moral of the Story; Seems that one needs to be careful with these
devices as they are easily destroyed by static.
BTW. The BS170 pinout is slightly different from the 2N7000 should one
use this instead.
Regards
Ivan
G0BON
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> ivan.rogers wrote:
> > Dear Jim
>
> Greetings Ivan,
>
> >
> > I am trying to expand the RIT Range on my 2N2. I am only getting
about 100hz shift with the normal components fitted.
>
> I certainly ought to be more than that. More on the order of 1.5 to
2 KHz
> end-to-end.
>
> >
> > Here are my measurements.
> >
> > Main tuning pot High end - 6.52V
> > Main tuning pot Low end - 0.68V
>
> Those look right.
>
> >
> > RIT pot High End - 3.58V
> > RIT pot Low End - 3.55V
>
> Ooops, those measurements are what I would expect when in transmit
more, with
> the Q23 PN2222 conducting. Do you have the Tx line to the RIT from
the Tx
> voltage source? It looks like the RIT Tx line is connected to the
Rx line, so
> that the RIT is always shorted out and can't work.
> >
> > The 1k5 resistors each end of the pot actually measure 1k5. (so OK
here)
> > The 1K RIT pot actually measures 880R
>
> Those are close enough for government work! :-)
>
> >
> > My 6V2 zener actually measures 5.82V across it (Should I replace
with a closer toleranced type???)
>
> No, that isn't the problem.
>
> >
> > Are the above voltages in the area that you would expect?
>
> No, I would expect to see a lot more voltage across the RIT pot in
receive mode.
> Something along the lines of 1.5 volts across the RIT pot when in
receive mode.
> Q23 is conducting on receive or is shorted. That's where the
problem is.
>
> >
> > I tried paralleling a 100pf cap across the trimmer and that
brought the shift up to 500Hz, but that is defeating the object if
there is something amis elsewhere in the RIT circuit.
>
> Agreed. See my other comment about the RIT pot being shorter out by
the
> transistor across it.
>
> >
> > I have checked my pcb layout for errors and all seems to be OK.
>
> I think you've missed something.... :-)
> >
> > As an aside, I am having a ball working plenty of european stations.
>
> Great! Let's get the RIT working so you can chase DX that are
working offsets.
>
> 72 and Good Luck,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Ivan Rogers wrote:
> Jim and group,
>
> Problem solved, removed Q24 from board to isolate TX/RX
> switch from RIT circuit.
>
> TX O/P from TX/RX switch circuit is fine.
>
> High end of RIT pot is 4.35V low end 2.99V (1.35V difference) which is OK.
>
> Deduced then that I had a bad 2N2000 or fried it with static.
>
> Replaced with a BS170 FET from the junk box and still had strange
> voltages, removed that one and replaced with another BS170 taking care
> that my hand was grounded on the chassis while handling the device.
>
> Bingo! this one works.
>
> Moral of the Story; Seems that one needs to be careful with these
> devices as they are easily destroyed by static.
>
> BTW. The BS170 pinout is slightly different from the 2N7000 should one
> use this instead.
>
> Regards
> Ivan
> G0BON
Ivan,
Glad that you found the problem with the shorted 2N7000. I didn't know which
version of the RIT you built, but assumed (incorrectly, I might add) it was the
early version using a PN2222 for the RIT switch. As for static sensitivity,
yes, seems like most of the small MOSFETs are that way. Grounding oneself before
handing the device is good building practice.
72 and thanks for the update, I'm sure others will benefit from what you found,
Jim, K8IQY
ivan.rogers wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Thought you might want look at some pictures I have uploaded onto my Blog.
> http://g0bon.blogspot.com/
>
> Ivan
> G0BON
>
Ivan,
It is a thing of beauty! It reminds me very much of the rig built by my friend
WJ2V, Preston Douglas who is a lawyer up in Manhattan Island. Preston built the
2nd 2N2/40 and was the lad who was making up and sending out 2N2/40 certificates
to successful builders of the design. I have certificates #1 and #3.
Preston's rig is shown here:
http://hometown.aol.com/pdouglas12/page/index.htm 72 and thanks for sharing the info on your rig,
Jim, K8IQY
I broke down and bought a 2n2-40 kit!
I only bought one, though it was tempting to buy 3 of the things at the
discounted price!
I should have sold a bunch of medium/high power stuff before this, so I
would have had some extra ca$h for this deal!
Wish me luck on the build!
72/73 de n8xx Hg
|
3855|3854|2008-10-21 14:42:54|VE3GAM Allen McRorie|Re: Order Confirmed!|yeah, just bought one as well,
Canadian dollar not as good as it was agianst the US dollar,
cost $175 for kit + shipping
Al ve3gam
----- Original Message -----
From: Hank Greeb
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 1:30 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Order Confirmed!
I broke down and bought a 2n2-40 kit!
I only bought one, though it was tempting to buy 3 of the things at the
discounted price!
I should have sold a bunch of medium/high power stuff before this, so I
would have had some extra ca$h for this deal!
Wish me luck on the build!
72/73 de n8xx Hg
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.173 / Virus Database: 270.8.2/1737 - Release Date: 10/21/2008 9:10 AM
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hank Greeb wrote:
> I broke down and bought a 2n2-40 kit!
Thanks for doing that and Al, Ve3GAM too.
>
> I only bought one, though it was tempting to buy 3 of the things at the
> discounted price!
>
> I should have sold a bunch of medium/high power stuff before this, so I
> would have had some extra ca$h for this deal!
You can never have too many rigs! :-)
>
> Wish me luck on the build!
Good luck.... You and Al may want to join the NorCal 2N2 group on Yahoo as that
is where all of the chatter from the 2N2/XX builders will be, along with photos
and other documentation as builders kits are going together. I'm there already!
72/73,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....I need to get my rigs ordered before they are all gone!
Jim,
I would hope that NORCAL would donate a set to you for all your work,
if they don't, it would be very disappointing.
I would have hoped that such a good rig would have had a bigger run, but
perhaps 500 is a real good number for these trying times, I am not marketer.
The NORCAL 2n2 group is a separate one from this one then?
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Order Confirmed!
Hank Greeb wrote:
> I broke down and bought a 2n2-40 kit!
Thanks for doing that and Al, Ve3GAM too.
>
> I only bought one, though it was tempting to buy 3 of the things at the
> discounted price!
>
> I should have sold a bunch of medium/high power stuff before this, so I
> would have had some extra ca$h for this deal!
You can never have too many rigs! :-)
>
> Wish me luck on the build!
Good luck.... You and Al may want to join the NorCal 2N2 group on Yahoo as that
is where all of the chatter from the 2N2/XX builders will be, along with photos
and other documentation as builders kits are going together. I'm there already!
72/73,
Jim, K8IQY
PS....I need to get my rigs ordered before they are all gone!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.173 / Virus Database: 270.8.2/1737 - Release Date: 10/21/2008 9:10 AM
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
VE3GAM Allen McRorie wrote:
> Jim,
Hi Al,
>
> I would hope that NORCAL would donate a set to you for all your work,
> if they don't, it would be very disappointing.
Well I'm not worried about it. We'll see what the tariff comes to for the order
that I emailed them. Maybe they will give me an additional price break! :-)
>
> I would have hoped that such a good rig would have had a bigger run, but
> perhaps 500 is a real good number for these trying times, I am not marketer.
Me neither, but 500 rigs is a whopping lot of parts with a rig that uses
nominally 300 parts. We'll see how the NorCal sales go and then decide if
another run by NorCal or some other group is in order.
>
> The NORCAL 2n2 group is a separate one from this one then?
Yes it is. Keeps the Manhattan-style builders away from the PCB kit builders so
that they don't fight! Sorry, just joking.... :-)
72/73 Al and thanks for buying one of the 2N2/XX rigs. I know you are going to
love it.
Jim, K8IQY
Jim:
Do you wish to tell us the name of the new 2n2-xx group so we may join?
72/73 de n8xx Hg
Jim Kortge wrote:
> VE3GAM Allen McRorie wrote:
>
>> The NORCAL 2n2 group is a separate one from this one then?
>>
>
> Yes it is. Keeps the Manhattan-style builders away from the PCB kit builders so that they don't fight! Sorry, just joking.... :-)
>
> 72/73 Al and thanks for buying one of the 2N2/XX rigs. I know you are going to love it.
>
> Jim, K8IQY
Just bought a 20m version aswell. I've been waiting for the pcb version
for an year :) Thank you for making it real.
Adrian, YO6SSW
|
3861|3861|2008-10-21 17:12:57|ve3gam|other 2n2 Yahoo group|the other Yahoo group for the new non-manhattan 2n2-xxx rigs
is the NORCAL 2n2 group, if you do a search for it, info for
it will appear on your screen and you can join up pretty quickly.
Al ve3gam
|
3862|3854|2008-10-21 18:04:16|Jim Kortge|Re: Order Confirmed!|Hank Greeb wrote:
> Jim:
Hank,
>
> Do you wish to tell us the name of the new 2n2-xx group so we may join?
Sorry, I thought it was obvious from the comments below. It is the NorCal_2n2
group. You can sign up directly on the 2N2/XX page of the NorCal site by putting
your email address in the box down toward the lower part of the page or go to
Yahoo directly and signup.
>
> 72/73 de n8xx Hg
72/73,
Jim, K8IQY
>
> Jim Kortge wrote:
>> VE3GAM Allen McRorie wrote:
>>
>>> The NORCAL 2n2 group is a separate one from this one then?
>>>
>> Yes it is. Keeps the Manhattan-style builders away from the PCB kit builders so that they don't fight! Sorry, just joking.... :-)
>>
>> 72/73 Al and thanks for buying one of the 2N2/XX rigs. I know you are going to love it.
>>
>> Jim, K8IQY
>
Yep, I finally figured that out, but I needed to scroll down a few lines
to get to the signup part of the page. :)
Remember, some of us in this audience are dummies. ;) :)
Hg
Jim Kortge wrote:
> Hank Greeb wrote:
>
>> Jim:
>>
>
> Hank,
>
>> Do you wish to tell us the name of the new 2n2-xx group so we may join?
>>
>
> Sorry, I thought it was obvious from the comments below. It is the NorCal_2n2
> group. You can sign up directly on the 2N2/XX page of the NorCal site by putting
> your email address in the box down toward the lower part of the page or go to
> Yahoo directly and signup.
>
>> 72/73 de n8xx Hg
>>
>
> 72/73,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>> Jim Kortge wrote:
>>
>>> VE3GAM Allen McRorie wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> The NORCAL 2n2 group is a separate one from this one then?
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Yes it is. Keeps the Manhattan-style builders away from the PCB kit builders so that they don't fight! Sorry, just joking.... :-)
>>>
>>> 72/73 Al and thanks for buying one of the 2N2/XX rigs. I know you are going to love it.
>>>
>>> Jim, K8IQY
>>>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Adrian Scripca, YO6SSW wrote:
> Just bought a 20m version aswell.
Adrian....thank for buying a 2N2/XX on 20 meters.
I've been waiting for the pcb version
> for an year :)
I work slowly! :-) Actually, it took much longer to get the parts than any of
us would have guessed in our wildest dreams. Some of more common parts took 12
weeks or more to get, after we found out that no one had any in stock.
Thank you for making it real.
You are welcome. Enjoy. I'll be looking for you on 20.
72/73 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
I put this project aside to let frustration ebb and to build a K2. The
K2 with KSB2 module is working very well, so back to the 2n2. I have
lost track of the info I was using to build it :>( Meanwhile, I
guess this transceiver has progressed to a kit version, and there are
so many files out there it's difficult to determine which to use.
My basis ( I think) was EM_2n2_20_layout_ver_A and
2N220BlkDia+SchVerD+BoMVerD1 in the files section of this group. Are
these the correct documents?
And, when I bought my hardware the ADE-1 balanced mixers were very
expensive so bought SCM-1 modules instead. I notice the Norcal Rig
now uses three ADE-1, is there an inexpensive source for these now?
Finally, the receiver doesn't work very well which is why I stopped
the build. Does anyone have a schematic with voltage readings?
73, Curt KB5JO
|
3866|3865|2008-12-01 08:54:41|wa5pse|Re: Back to 2n2-20 Build, Questions|Hi Curt...
What happened to you?..haven't heard from you in some time!
My rcvr is working great!...It's the low output of the TX that
frustrates me...
It's not all that terribly low, but, not what it should be either.
I can get you the RX DC readings and hopefully some scope displays if
that will help.
Also, there's not much difference in those little balanced mixer
xfmrs...except for the price of course...
Just make sure you hook em up right...
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "russellhulett" wrote:
>
> I put this project aside to let frustration ebb and to build a K2.
The
> K2 with KSB2 module is working very well, so back to the 2n2. I
have
> lost track of the info I was using to build it :>( Meanwhile, I
> guess this transceiver has progressed to a kit version, and there
are
> so many files out there it's difficult to determine which to use.
>
> My basis ( I think) was EM_2n2_20_layout_ver_A and
> 2N220BlkDia+SchVerD+BoMVerD1 in the files section of this group.
Are
> these the correct documents?
>
> And, when I bought my hardware the ADE-1 balanced mixers were very
> expensive so bought SCM-1 modules instead. I notice the Norcal Rig
> now uses three ADE-1, is there an inexpensive source for these now?
>
> Finally, the receiver doesn't work very well which is why I stopped
> the build. Does anyone have a schematic with voltage readings?
>
> 73, Curt KB5JO
>
russellhulett wrote:
> I put this project aside to let frustration ebb and to build a K2. The
> K2 with KSB2 module is working very well, so back to the 2n2. I have
> lost track of the info I was using to build it :>( Meanwhile, I
> guess this transceiver has progressed to a kit version,
It has, being sold by NorCal. This is a one time event. The rig is on a PCB
(something I said I'd never do) and currently available on 20, 30 and 40 meters.
and there are
> so many files out there it's difficult to determine which to use.
>
> My basis ( I think) was EM_2n2_20_layout_ver_A
That's Larry, K3PEG's Extreme Manhattan layout. I can't vouch for the accuracy
of his layout, but I'm guessing it is close the schematics you listed below.
You'll want to compare the layout to the schematic always though, to make sure
that they track one another.
and
> 2N220BlkDia+SchVerD+BoMVerD1 in the files section of this group. Are
> these the correct documents?
The above reference is off of the k8iqy.com website and is the version used in
my rig posted also on my web site.
>
> And, when I bought my hardware the ADE-1 balanced mixers were very
> expensive
Still are in single quantity, something like $15 each.
so bought SCM-1 modules instead.
Those are equivalent in performance, but may require a slightly different layout
as the pin outs may be different.
I notice the Norcal Rig
> now uses three ADE-1, is there an inexpensive source for these now?
No, but they get far less expensive when you buy 1500 of them, which is what
NorCal did. In quantities of 100, they are $1.99 each directly from MiniCircuits.
>
> Finally, the receiver doesn't work very well which is why I stopped
> the build.
What isn't working well?
Does anyone have a schematic with voltage readings?
I do somewhere around here. I'll see if I can find it, but you'll have to be
patient. I'm not sure that voltage readings will help though. I know the rig
works FB if all of the correct parts are wired up as shown on the schematics.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
wa5pse wrote:
> Hi Curt...
>
> What happened to you?..haven't heard from you in some time!
>
> My rcvr is working great!...It's the low output of the TX that
> frustrates me...
Mike, what seems to be the problem?
>
> It's not all that terribly low, but, not what it should be either.
Power output low, too many spurs, what?
>
> I can get you the RX DC readings and hopefully some scope displays if
> that will help.
Me too, but I have to find them. They may be in the 2N2/20 notebook. I'll look
later today after plowing all of the snow in the driveway.
>
> Also, there's not much difference in those little balanced mixer
> xfmrs...except for the price of course...
That is correct.
> Just make sure you hook em up right...
Amen!
72,
Jim, K8IQY
No spurs...It's very clean and the keying is sweet as can be.
Just low output.
It's been a while since I last messed with it.
I would have to go back and look up the scope patterns and voltages
to show what's going on.
I'll do that and maybe you can figutell me where I should devote my
energies.
Mike
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> wa5pse wrote:
> > Hi Curt...
> >
> > What happened to you?..haven't heard from you in some time!
> >
> > My rcvr is working great!...It's the low output of the TX that
> > frustrates me...
>
> Mike, what seems to be the problem?
>
> >
> > It's not all that terribly low, but, not what it should be
either.
>
> Power output low, too many spurs, what?
> >
> > I can get you the RX DC readings and hopefully some scope
displays if
> > that will help.
>
> Me too, but I have to find them. They may be in the 2N2/20
notebook. I'll look
> later today after plowing all of the snow in the driveway.
>
> >
> > Also, there's not much difference in those little balanced mixer
> > xfmrs...except for the price of course...
>
> That is correct.
>
> > Just make sure you hook em up right...
>
> Amen!
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Hello Mike, Jim, all
Been busy with grandkids etc. among other things. Seems I started on
building this thing about this time last year :o)
Found the documents used to construct, folded up in the shoebox
containing the unfinished rig! Imagine that...
Rechecked and the VFO is working as is the audio string. That is,
can hear a 3-3.1MHz signal in my station receiver as I tune the
VFO. Can put a marker signal into the IF and hear it loud and
clear. Can't hear it at the antenna input but if I disconnect the
Rcvr RF amp out from the mixer RF in, I can tune the marker signal
injected into the mixer RF input directly.
By the way, looking at the top of the SCM-1 the dot being on pin 1
upper left corner, clockwise around the chip are pins
2,4,6,8,7,5,3,1. 5,7,2&6 are grounded. 1 is RF in, 8 is LO in, 3&4
are jumper together and to IF out. Correct?
It appears the problem is somewhere between the antenna terminal and
the mixer input, so will focus on that area.
For some reason, one major problem I had with the manhattan pads was
them delaminating, even with minimal heat input. What thickness PCB
do you all use for these?
73, Curt KB5JO
|
3871|3865|2008-12-01 19:23:49|wa5pse|Re: Back to 2n2-20 Build, Questions|Curt,
You want to be very careful of that Norton amp thing (I think they
call it!)..the xfmr MUST be correctly installed or it WILL NOT
work...period...I've been there!!
As for Manhattan pads...I bought mine from Dan's small
parts...they're like floor sweepings of all kinds and sizes of 1/32"
to 1/16" FRP (Fiberglas Reinforced Plastic) pieces.
BTW, FYI...don't use little lo power irons thinking you're not gonna
hurt the PCB mat'l...believe it or not, they will destroy little
bits of PCB faster than something hotter!
With a 40 watt+ iron you get on and off quicker!...saving the pad.
Mike
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "russellhulett" wrote:
>
> Hello Mike, Jim, all
>
> Been busy with grandkids etc. among other things. Seems I started
on
> building this thing about this time last year :o)
>
> Found the documents used to construct, folded up in the shoebox
> containing the unfinished rig! Imagine that...
>
> Rechecked and the VFO is working as is the audio string. That is,
> can hear a 3-3.1MHz signal in my station receiver as I tune the
> VFO. Can put a marker signal into the IF and hear it loud and
> clear. Can't hear it at the antenna input but if I disconnect the
> Rcvr RF amp out from the mixer RF in, I can tune the marker signal
> injected into the mixer RF input directly.
>
> By the way, looking at the top of the SCM-1 the dot being on pin 1
> upper left corner, clockwise around the chip are pins
> 2,4,6,8,7,5,3,1. 5,7,2&6 are grounded. 1 is RF in, 8 is LO in,
3&4
> are jumper together and to IF out. Correct?
>
> It appears the problem is somewhere between the antenna terminal
and
> the mixer input, so will focus on that area.
>
> For some reason, one major problem I had with the manhattan pads
was
> them delaminating, even with minimal heat input. What thickness
PCB
> do you all use for these?
>
> 73, Curt KB5JO
>
Mike,
If you used the SCM-1 show me a picture of what yours looks like
installed if you have a picture of it.
I use is a Weller TCPT station, with either a 700 or 800 deg tip, and
Kester 44 solder, same as for everything else.
73, Curt KB5JO
|
3873|3865|2008-12-02 21:26:01|Jim Kortge|Re: Back to 2n2-20 Build, Questions|russellhulett wrote:
> Hello Mike, Jim, all
>
> Been busy with grandkids etc. among other things. Seems I started on
> building this thing about this time last year :o)
>
> Found the documents used to construct, folded up in the shoebox
> containing the unfinished rig! Imagine that...
>
> Rechecked and the VFO is working as is the audio string. That is,
> can hear a 3-3.1MHz signal in my station receiver as I tune the
> VFO. Can put a marker signal into the IF and hear it loud and
> clear. Can't hear it at the antenna input but if I disconnect the
> Rcvr RF amp out from the mixer RF in,
The RF Amp is probably oscillating, which will occur if the 1-turn emitter
winding is phased incorrectly. Instead of a ~10 dB amplifier, you get a very
ambitious oscillator. Reverse the leads on that 1-turn winding and see if it all
starts working properly.
I can tune the marker signal
> injected into the mixer RF input directly.
>
> By the way, looking at the top of the SCM-1 the dot being on pin 1
> upper left corner, clockwise around the chip are pins
> 2,4,6,8,7,5,3,1. 5,7,2&6 are grounded. 1 is RF in, 8 is LO in, 3&4
> are jumper together and to IF out. Correct?
Don't know and don't have time at the moment to go over to the MiniCircuits web
site and check it out. It needs to be wired in such that the various ports end
up in the same locations as the ADE-1 ports.
>
> It appears the problem is somewhere between the antenna terminal and
> the mixer input, so will focus on that area.
RF Amplifier and make sure the front-end it tuned up. Lots of loss there if it
isn't.
>
> For some reason, one major problem I had with the manhattan pads was
> them delaminating, even with minimal heat input. What thickness PCB
> do you all use for these?
Either 1/16 inch or 1/32 inch thickness. Both work well, but the base material
needs to be fiberglass and not some kind of crummy bakelite stuff that I've seen.
>
> 73, Curt KB5JO
72/73 and sorry I can't take more time to work with you Curt. Gotta get back to
solving the 2N2/XX drift issues.
Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.11/1820 - Release Date: 11/29/2008 6:52 PM
>
I built a 2N2/6 a while back & just posted a picture of the finished
board that I took before putting it in an enclosure. I hadn't posted
pictures to a Yahoo group before, and instead of making sure of what
I was supposed to do, I just put them in the first folder I saw. Then
I discovered I needed to create my own folder and did that. Then I
discovered someone else would have to remove the pictures from the
first folder! (Sorry Jim!!) Power out is a little over two watts.
The second picture shows how I usually organize my parts, sticking
them on a solderless breadboard or two, in the approximate order I'm
going to use them. The breadboard securely holds them in the standing
position, and I can just pull them off one at a time as I need them.
In my opinion, it helps the build go much more smoothly, and there's
less chance of making mistakes or losing things. I store the bigger
parts in a small tray.
I also used the 2N2/6 power amplifier circuitry in a 6M beacon that I
put on the air last summer and it works great. Using 2N2222A's sure
cuts down the cost, and you don't have to worry about ruining an
expensive power transistor if you have problems.
Denny Payton N9JXY
|
3875|3875|2008-12-03 10:22:42|Hank Greeb|VFO Drift?|I don't remember much on this reflector about VFO drift with any of the
2n2/xx which have been built. Has anyone who has built a rig Manhattan
style run into drift? Or, is the problem related only to the NorCal
Printed Circut Board version due to closer proximity of parts, and
therefore more localized heating around the VFO circuitry?
Just curious.
72/73 de n8xx Hg
|
3876|3875|2008-12-03 12:42:35|Bob Miller|Re: VFO Drift?|I built both the 40 and 20 meter Manhattan versions and neither had this problem.
Bob
wb6kwt
--- On Wed, 12/3/08, Hank Greeb <n8xx@arrl.org> wrote:
From: Hank Greeb <n8xx@arrl.org>
Subject: [2n2-40] VFO Drift?
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, December 3, 2008, 7:22 AM
I don't remember much on this reflector about VFO drift with any of the
2n2/xx which have been built. Has anyone who has built a rig Manhattan
style run into drift? Or, is the problem related only to the NorCal
Printed Circut Board version due to closer proximity of parts, and
therefore more localized heating around the VFO circuitry?
Just curious.
72/73 de n8xx Hg
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Just a thought...What class caps are in the VO you built??
If you used ceramic caps, did they all have those cute little dots on
the top??
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Hank Greeb" wrote:
>
> I don't remember much on this reflector about VFO drift with any of
the
> 2n2/xx which have been built. Has anyone who has built a rig
Manhattan
> style run into drift? Or, is the problem related only to the NorCal
> Printed Circut Board version due to closer proximity of parts, and
> therefore more localized heating around the VFO circuitry?
>
> Just curious.
>
> 72/73 de n8xx Hg
>
Hank,
You're probably aware of it by now, but, apparently there is a
stability issue with several of the 2n20/40 kits that have shipped.
I'm sure they'll work it out and get you updated with the necessary
changes.
In the meantime...you might check out the caps used in that circuit
to see if they are stable types like ceramic NPO, polyester, or
silver mica types...Ceramic non-NPO would be bad news in a VFO.
My personal preference is for silver mica...but they can be expensive
and hard to find.
NPO's usually work pretty well.
Mike
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Hank Greeb" wrote:
>
> I don't remember much on this reflector about VFO drift with any of
the
> 2n2/xx which have been built. Has anyone who has built a rig
Manhattan
> style run into drift? Or, is the problem related only to the
NorCal
> Printed Circut Board version due to closer proximity of parts, and
> therefore more localized heating around the VFO circuitry?
>
> Just curious.
>
> 72/73 de n8xx Hg
>
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Hank Greeb"
wrote:
>
> I don't remember much on this reflector about VFO drift with any of the
> 2n2/xx which have been built. Has anyone who has built a rig Manhattan
> style run into drift? Or, is the problem related only to the NorCal
> Printed Circut Board version due to closer proximity of parts, and
> therefore more localized heating around the VFO circuitry?
>
> Just curious.
>
> 72/73 de n8xx Hg
>
I don't know what the layout of the PCB looks like (And I'm assuming
the 40M version) but you might try mounting D8 (1N4007) closer to D10
(Varactor) ... Usually the D8 diode is included in a varactor tuning
circuit to help compensate for drift due to heat so you want it in
close proximity to the varactor diode ,,,, You might also try using a
1N4004 like Jim does in the original, I'm not sure the PIN structure
of the 1N4007 will compensate correctly as the non-PIN 1N4004 version
... It could also be sloppy NPO caps, not all are created equal and
I've heard there are some on the market that are labeled as NPO but
don't meet specs and were dumped on the surplus market
JRLast winter I started gathering parts to build a 2n2 30. I need to get
some ordered now. Would a kit of caps from Hendricks cover most of the
sizes/types? Maybe the types are listed somewhere here and I missed it
so far. I probably will order a 2n2 kit from Norcal but I would like to
glue some pads and try one this way also. tnx in advance de Paul N0NBD
|
3881|3880|2008-12-12 10:33:48|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2 30 questions|Paul Smith wrote:
> Last winter I started gathering parts to build a 2n2 30. I need to get
> some ordered now. Would a kit of caps from Hendricks cover most of the
> sizes/types?
Yes, quite a few of the values needed are in Doug's cap kit.
Maybe the types are listed somewhere here and I missed it
> so far.
I'm not sure that a full bill of materials for the /30 has been assembled. Let
me look on my computer here to see what I can find.
I probably will order a 2n2 kit from Norcal but I would like to
> glue some pads and try one this way also.
A person after my own heart!
tnx in advance de Paul N0NBD
72/73 Paul and have fun,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
>
> Paul Smith wrote:
> > Last winter I started gathering parts to build a 2n2 30. I need
to get
> > some ordered now. Would a kit of caps from Hendricks cover most
of the
> > sizes/types?
>
> Yes, quite a few of the values needed are in Doug's cap kit.
>
> Maybe the types are listed somewhere here and I missed it
> > so far.
>
> I'm not sure that a full bill of materials for the /30 has been
assembled. Let
> me look on my computer here to see what I can find.
>
> I probably will order a 2n2 kit from Norcal but I would like to
> > glue some pads and try one this way also.
>
> A person after my own heart!
>
> tnx in advance de Paul N0NBD
>
> 72/73 Paul and have fun,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
OK thanks Jim, I was not sure what types I needed to be looking to
order. tnx agn de Paul N0NBDI've been rebuilding the 2n2-20 using different pcb material for the
pads, the new 1/16" pads work much better. Anyway, I just completed
the VFO and find the range is about 1/2 what I expected. With 40
turns on L5, the frequency was about 2.914-2.950 with minimum TC4, so
removed 2 turns from the main toroid ( now 38 turns ). The frequency
varies from 3.030 - 3.070. The schematic I am using shows a 180 pf,
100 pf. and 3-40pf TC4 accross L5. I notice the shematic for the
Norcal 2n2 shows a 120pf, 100pf, and 5-70pf TC4.
Advice about broadening the range would be appreciated. I confirmed
the tuning varactor is the MV1662 per the schematic.
73, Curt
|
3884|3883|2008-12-15 16:44:56|russellhulett|2n2 20 VFO range question|I've been rebuilding the 2n2-20 using different pcb material for the
pads, the new 1/16" pads work much better. Anyway, I just completed
the VFO and find the range is about 1/2 what I expected. With 40
turns on L5, the frequency was about 2.914-2.950 with minimum TC4, so
removed 2 turns from the main toroid ( now 38 turns ). The frequency
varies from 3.030 - 3.070. The schematic I am using shows a 180 pf,
100 pf. and 3-40pf TC4 accross L5. I notice the shematic for the
Norcal 2n2 shows a 120pf, 100pf, and 5-70pf TC4.
Advice about broadening the range would be appreciated. I confirmed
the tuning varactor is the MV1662 per the schematic.
73, Curt
|
3885|3883|2008-12-15 16:45:00|russellhulett|2n2 20 VFO range question|I've been rebuilding the 2n2-20 using different pcb material for the
pads, the new 1/16" pads work much better. Anyway, I just completed
the VFO and find the range is about 1/2 what I expected. With 40
turns on L5, the frequency was about 2.914-2.950 with minimum TC4, so
removed 2 turns from the main toroid ( now 38 turns ). The frequency
varies from 3.030 - 3.070. The schematic I am using shows a 180 pf,
100 pf. and 3-40pf TC4 accross L5. I notice the shematic for the
Norcal 2n2 shows a 120pf, 100pf, and 5-70pf TC4.
Advice about broadening the range would be appreciated. I confirmed
the tuning varactor is the MV1662 per the schematic.
73, Curt
|
3886|3883|2008-12-16 07:03:59|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2 20 VFO range question|russellhulett wrote:
> I've been rebuilding the 2n2-20 using different pcb material for the
> pads, the new 1/16" pads work much better. Anyway, I just completed
> the VFO and find the range is about 1/2 what I expected. With 40
> turns on L5, the frequency was about 2.914-2.950 with minimum TC4, so
> removed 2 turns from the main toroid ( now 38 turns ). The frequency
> varies from 3.030 - 3.070. The schematic I am using shows a 180 pf,
> 100 pf. and 3-40pf TC4 accross L5.
That is on the original schematic.
I notice the shematic for the
> Norcal 2n2 shows a 120pf, 100pf, and 5-70pf TC4.
Not any more! That got revised to 180 pF and 100 pF with a 5-60 pF trimmer.
>
> Advice about broadening the range would be appreciated.
That is controlled by the size of C12 in the original schematic. If you need
more tuning range, make that capacitor larger. Are you using the 6.2 volt Zener
and 1N400X diode as the supply for the MV1662?
Also, when the RIT is added, the overall frequency of the VFO comes down since
the RIT circuitry add more capacitance in parallel with the main tuning capacitors.
I confirmed
> the tuning varactor is the MV1662 per the schematic.
OK, sounds like some capacitor tweaks are in order.
72/73 and good luck,
Jim, K8IQY
>Are you using the 6.2 volt Zener and 1N400X diode as the supply for
the MV1662?
Yes, I am.
> OK, sounds like some capacitor tweaks are in order.
Will do. What is the expected span with 56pF specified series cap?
Thanks for your help. 72, Curt
russellhulett wrote:
>> Are you using the 6.2 volt Zener and 1N400X diode as the supply for
> the MV1662?
>
> Yes, I am.
>
>> OK, sounds like some capacitor tweaks are in order.
>
> Will do. What is the expected span with 56pF specified series cap?
A bit in excess of 100 Khz. 105 to 115 KHz from what I remember.
>
> Thanks for your help. 72, Curt
Happy to do that Curt.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
Well, I rebuilt this 2n2-20 from scratch. The results are the same
discouragement. I can receive my Himite transmitting 400 mW into a
dummy load using a pigtail clipped to TC3. Connecting to an antenna
produces no signals besides the one from the Himite transmitting. I
can't hear the Himite VFO which should be easy.
I'm thinking maybe the SCM-1 is no good as a DBM. I'm not wanting to
pay $15 for an ADE, so am thinking of building my own DBM using
toroids and diodes, like the 2n2-40.
Details please about winding the trifilar toroids? as I see it, twist
three pieces of different color wire together, wind 10 t on a FT37-
43. One color is primary, other two are secondaries. Connect ct to
ground.
|
3890|3889|2008-12-20 11:03:31|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2 20 Discouragement|russellhulett wrote:
> Well, I rebuilt this 2n2-20 from scratch. The results are the same
> discouragement. I can receive my Himite transmitting 400 mW into a
> dummy load using a pigtail clipped to TC3. Connecting to an antenna
> produces no signals besides the one from the Himite transmitting. I
> can't hear the Himite VFO which should be easy.
It sure ought to be way more sensitive than that if it is set up correctly and
has the correct parts in the right places.
>
> I'm thinking maybe the SCM-1 is no good as a DBM.
That's a fine mixer, but maybe isn't working. Did you get it new?
I'm not wanting to
> pay $15 for an ADE, so am thinking of building my own DBM using
> toroids and diodes, like the 2n2-40.
I have a few SBL-1 mixers here and I'd be happy to a couple to play with. they
are level 7 mixers, same as the ADE-1, just larger. They were the defacto
standard level 7 mixer for many years.
>
> Details please about winding the trifilar toroids? as I see it, twist
> three pieces of different color wire together, wind 10 t on a FT37-
> 43. One color is primary, other two are secondaries. Connect ct to
> ground.
That's it! Wire size isn't important, but I find that #28 or smaller is easier
to work with when twisting 3 strands together and winding it. Also, the three
strands don't have to be twisted together. Winding them in parallel will also
work I've found.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Internal Virus Database is out of date.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1847 - Release Date: 12/13/2008 4:56 PM
>
It has been an interest of mine to provide an opportunity to tech
minded hams,living in the
Michiana area to get together both online and personally to discuss
their projects and ideas.
Toward that end, I would like to invite amateurs living in the central
Michiana area to
visit and consider joining a new group, the Central Michiana Ham Tech
Group....
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CenMichianaHamTechGroup/ In addition to providing another discussion group devoted to QRP and
other technical related
subjects, it is also the goal of this group to encourage opportunities
for live exchange of
ideas by way of one-to-one, group, and breakfast get-togethers here in
the Michiana area.
I thank the group for your patience and want in no way to distract
from the fine activity here.
Mike, WA5PSE
Although I have found the receiver to be excellent, I have found it
hard going in trying to get contacts so have decided to increase the
power O/P from 4 to 5 Watts.
As the Norcal rigs are designed for this power range I have opted to
take part of this design and incorporate into my manhatten style built
rig.
So far I have homebrewed manhatten style modular boards outside of the
rig to the Norcal circuit diagram from C103 onwards.
My problem is I am only getting 1V pk-pk from top of C103 (2.759Vpk-pk
in manual) and hence just 1 Watt at the dummy load antenna O/P.
So what is the best way in trying to increase the O/P power to the
antenna.
1. Do need to slightly modify the manhatten design TX cascode amp to
the Norcal design.
2. Increase Signal level from LO.?
3. Increase signal level from the VFO?
Suggestions and how to modify the circuit would be welcome.
Ivan
G0BON
|
3893|3892|2009-02-06 21:29:19|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-40 Final Amp Mods|Ivan Rogers wrote:
> Although I have found the receiver to be excellent, I have found it
> hard going in trying to get contacts so have decided to increase the
> power O/P from 4 to 5 Watts.
Golly Ivan, that's only 1 dB more. If you are not making contacts at 4-watts,
I'm guessing you won't at 5-watts either. What kind of antenna are you using?
>
> As the Norcal rigs are designed for this power range I have opted to
> take part of this design and incorporate into my manhatten style built
> rig.
That's like reverse engineering! :-) The NorCal rig came from all of the
things learned on the early Manhattan-style 2N2 rigs that I designed and built.
>
> So far I have homebrewed manhatten style modular boards outside of the
> rig to the Norcal circuit diagram from C103 onwards.
>
> My problem is I am only getting 1V pk-pk from top of C103 (2.759Vpk-pk
> in manual) and hence just 1 Watt at the dummy load antenna O/P.
>
> So what is the best way in trying to increase the O/P power to the
> antenna.
Rebuilding the Cascode Amp to the configuration used in the NorCal 2N2/XX design
would probably be the easiest thing to do.
>
> 1. Do need to slightly modify the manhatten design TX cascode amp to
> the Norcal design.
Yes....
> 2. Increase Signal level from LO.?
Don't know without knowing what LO configuration you are running and how much
drive you are getting from it.
> 3. Increase signal level from the VFO?
Ditto. Without know how much drive you have to the RF Port on the mixer you are
using, I can't say. If it is a commercial level 7 mixer of some kind, the RF
Port level needs to be less than 0 dBm or else the mixer will be driven too
hard. -4 to -6 dBm is even better in terms of keeping the spurs down.
>
> Suggestions and how to modify the circuit would be welcome.
Which circuit?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Sorry Jim, I did not make myself clear in my last message.
I was meant to say "to take my O/P power from 2 watts to 4/5 Watts."
My original circuit is the 2n2-40+ and I have rebuilt on separate
boards manhattten style to the Norcal circuit from C103 onwards.
So with my explanation above made clearer I hope, my questions still
stand as per my last sent message.
Once again sorry for my the poor explanation initialy.
Ivan
G0BON
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> Ivan Rogers wrote:
> > Although I have found the receiver to be excellent, I have found it
> > hard going in trying to get contacts so have decided to increase the
> > power O/P from 4 to 5 Watts.
>
> Golly Ivan, that's only 1 dB more. If you are not making contacts at
4-watts,
> I'm guessing you won't at 5-watts either. What kind of antenna are
you using?
> >
> > As the Norcal rigs are designed for this power range I have opted to
> > take part of this design and incorporate into my manhatten style built
> > rig.
>
> That's like reverse engineering! :-) The NorCal rig came from all
of the
> things learned on the early Manhattan-style 2N2 rigs that I designed
and built.
>
> >
> > So far I have homebrewed manhatten style modular boards outside of the
> > rig to the Norcal circuit diagram from C103 onwards.
> >
> > My problem is I am only getting 1V pk-pk from top of C103 (2.759Vpk-pk
> > in manual) and hence just 1 Watt at the dummy load antenna O/P.
> >
> > So what is the best way in trying to increase the O/P power to the
> > antenna.
>
> Rebuilding the Cascode Amp to the configuration used in the NorCal
2N2/XX design
> would probably be the easiest thing to do.
>
> >
> > 1. Do need to slightly modify the manhatten design TX cascode amp to
> > the Norcal design.
>
> Yes....
>
> > 2. Increase Signal level from LO.?
>
> Don't know without knowing what LO configuration you are running and
how much
> drive you are getting from it.
>
> > 3. Increase signal level from the VFO?
>
> Ditto. Without know how much drive you have to the RF Port on the
mixer you are
> using, I can't say. If it is a commercial level 7 mixer of some
kind, the RF
> Port level needs to be less than 0 dBm or else the mixer will be
driven too
> hard. -4 to -6 dBm is even better in terms of keeping the spurs down.
> >
> > Suggestions and how to modify the circuit would be welcome.
>
> Which circuit?
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Ivan Rogers wrote:
> Sorry Jim, I did not make myself clear in my last message.
>
> I was meant to say "to take my O/P power from 2 watts to 4/5 Watts."
OK, that's a bit different than what I though you were doing! :-)
>
> My original circuit is the 2n2-40+ and I have rebuilt on separate
> boards manhattten style to the Norcal circuit from C103 onwards.
How much power can you get out of the rig with those two replacement stages? Is
it the 1-watt that you reported in your first message? If it won't do 4-5 watts,
then I'd go after the original Cascode Amp and revise it to the NorCal 2N2/XX
configuration. That should do the job then, I'll bet.
>
> So with my explanation above made clearer I hope, my questions still
> stand as per my last sent message.
Yes, I think I understand it all now.
>
> Once again sorry for my the poor explanation initialy.
No problem, it just another email. Besides, so of the guys/gals on this
reflector are happy there is some dialog again!
72 and keep us posted please,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
That's correct I am only getting 1 Watts after modifying the last 2
stages to the Norcal circuit. I shall have a go at building the
cascade amp to Norcal design. Will keep you posted as and when I can
get some new measurements.
BTW, my final amp is a 2SC2166 instead of the 2SC5739 but this should
be quite adequate as a replacement.
Ivan
G0BON
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> Ivan Rogers wrote:
> > Sorry Jim, I did not make myself clear in my last message.
> >
> > I was meant to say "to take my O/P power from 2 watts to 4/5 Watts."
>
> OK, that's a bit different than what I though you were doing! :-)
> >
> > My original circuit is the 2n2-40+ and I have rebuilt on separate
> > boards manhattten style to the Norcal circuit from C103 onwards.
>
> How much power can you get out of the rig with those two replacement
stages? Is
> it the 1-watt that you reported in your first message? If it won't
do 4-5 watts,
> then I'd go after the original Cascode Amp and revise it to the
NorCal 2N2/XX
> configuration. That should do the job then, I'll bet.
> >
> > So with my explanation above made clearer I hope, my questions still
> > stand as per my last sent message.
>
> Yes, I think I understand it all now.
>
> >
> > Once again sorry for my the poor explanation initialy.
>
> No problem, it just another email. Besides, so of the guys/gals on this
> reflector are happy there is some dialog again!
>
> 72 and keep us posted please,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Ivan Rogers wrote:
> Jim,
>
> That's correct I am only getting 1 Watts after modifying the last 2
> stages to the Norcal circuit. I shall have a go at building the
> cascade amp to Norcal design. Will keep you posted as and when I can
> get some new measurements.
>
> BTW, my final amp is a 2SC2166 instead of the 2SC5739 but this should
> be quite adequate as a replacement.
Agreed Ivan. The 2SC2166 is a really good RF transistor and would have been
used in the NorCal kit if it were still in production and readily available. Too
bad it and all of the others like it are now history.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
Just built the TX cascade amplifier and here are my measurements on
the oscilloscope.
Junction of T7 and Q18 collector, 3V pk-pk
End of C103 0.1uf cap (not connected to next stage) 700mV pk-pk,
Norcal manual states 2.759 pk-pk.
So I am nowhere near the O/P I should be getting, any ideas????
Ivan
G0BON
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> Ivan Rogers wrote:
> > Jim,
> >
> > That's correct I am only getting 1 Watts after modifying the last 2
> > stages to the Norcal circuit. I shall have a go at building the
> > cascade amp to Norcal design. Will keep you posted as and when I can
> > get some new measurements.
> >
> > BTW, my final amp is a 2SC2166 instead of the 2SC5739 but this should
> > be quite adequate as a replacement.
>
> Agreed Ivan. The 2SC2166 is a really good RF transistor and would
have been
> used in the NorCal kit if it were still in production and readily
available. Too
> bad it and all of the others like it are now history.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Ivan Rogers wrote:
> Jim,
Hi Ivan,
Sorry for the delay in answering. Other household things got in the way of ham
radio again! :-)
>
> Just built the TX cascade amplifier and here are my measurements on
> the oscilloscope.
>
> Junction of T7 and Q18 collector, 3V pk-pk
With my 40-meter rig set for 4-watts output, I see 5.6 volts p-p on the
collector of Q18. Of course, it is driving the next stage under those
conditions, so much of the power is being passed out to the next stage.
>
> End of C103 0.1uf cap (not connected to next stage) 700mV pk-pk,
> Norcal manual states 2.759 pk-pk.
And I'm seeing 2 volts p-p here without retuning the Cascode Amp and with the
R87 pot all of the way down. Retuning the Amp would probably yield the larger
numbers that I put into the Assembly Manual
>
> So I am nowhere near the O/P I should be getting, any ideas????
Has to be incoming drive to the Tx Mixer from the VFO being a being a tad low.
BTW, what kind of mixer are you using for the Tx Mixer? Is a home brew or a
commercial unit?
You can also bump up the gain of the Cascode Amp by changing the value of R91 in
the emitter of the 1st transistor, but if you go too low, the whole affair will
take off and oscillate. The other thing that you could try is to change the
secondary of T7 to a number of turns where the output power to drive the next
stage is more, but that also may lead to instability if the load on the Cascode
Amp is too light.
I hope some of the suggestions and data help,
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks for the response Jim,
The TX mixer is the homebrew diode type as in the 2n2-40+ manhatten
circuit.
And thanks for the other ideas to try, yes I have had some
instabilities in trying out some things. Hi, Hi.
Ivan
G0BON
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> Ivan Rogers wrote:
> > Jim,
>
> Hi Ivan,
>
> Sorry for the delay in answering. Other household things got in the
way of ham
> radio again! :-)
> >
> > Just built the TX cascade amplifier and here are my measurements on
> > the oscilloscope.
> >
> > Junction of T7 and Q18 collector, 3V pk-pk
>
> With my 40-meter rig set for 4-watts output, I see 5.6 volts p-p on the
> collector of Q18. Of course, it is driving the next stage under those
> conditions, so much of the power is being passed out to the next stage.
>
> >
> > End of C103 0.1uf cap (not connected to next stage) 700mV pk-pk,
> > Norcal manual states 2.759 pk-pk.
>
> And I'm seeing 2 volts p-p here without retuning the Cascode Amp and
with the
> R87 pot all of the way down. Retuning the Amp would probably yield
the larger
> numbers that I put into the Assembly Manual
> >
> > So I am nowhere near the O/P I should be getting, any ideas????
>
> Has to be incoming drive to the Tx Mixer from the VFO being a being
a tad low.
> BTW, what kind of mixer are you using for the Tx Mixer? Is a home
brew or a
> commercial unit?
>
> You can also bump up the gain of the Cascode Amp by changing the
value of R91 in
> the emitter of the 1st transistor, but if you go too low, the whole
affair will
> take off and oscillate. The other thing that you could try is to
change the
> secondary of T7 to a number of turns where the output power to drive
the next
> stage is more, but that also may lead to instability if the load on
the Cascode
> Amp is too light.
>
> I hope some of the suggestions and data help,
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
n0mq@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> Jim:
Hi Gene,
> I have a parts set with the AZ ScQRPions screened board.
There is an antique! I didn't think any of those were still out there unbuilt.
Looks like all
> the parts are. I just can not build this one and would like to know if
> any one could build it for me.
Maybe someone on the original 2N2/40 group could help. I'm way too busy with
supporting the new NorCal 2N2/XX builders to have any time to do it, and, I'm
building one of the NorCal 30-meter rigs at the moment and have a 20-meter in
the box that has to be done after the 30-meter is finished.
It is a 2N22/40... Thanks for your help.
I'll post this reply to the 2N2/40 group and we'll see what happens. Maybe
someone can help you out.
> 73
> Gene, N0MQ
72/73 Gene,
Jim, K8IQY
> PS:
> Hope to see you at Ozarkcon 2009
I'll be there!!! :-)
|
3902|3901|2009-02-12 12:14:14|wa5pse|Re: Building|Jim, Gene,
I'm not quite up to speed on what you're talking about...
Is the AZScorpions board a 2N2/40 project?
Also, is the Norcal rig you're working on one of the surface
mount20/30 rigs?
I have one of the partial kits that are still being sold and was
looking for someone to co-op parts purchase with.
Also again,...Jim, I really appreciate your suggestions on getting
more drive out of a 2N2/40...
I have already figured out the transformer winding thing on my own and
now, will take a look at that resistor.
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> n0mq@... wrote:
> > Jim:
>
> Hi Gene,
>
> > I have a parts set with the AZ ScQRPions screened board.
>
> There is an antique! I didn't think any of those were still out
there unbuilt.
>
> Looks like all
> > the parts are. I just can not build this one and would like to
know if
> > any one could build it for me.
>
> Maybe someone on the original 2N2/40 group could help. I'm way too
busy with
> supporting the new NorCal 2N2/XX builders to have any time to do it,
and, I'm
> building one of the NorCal 30-meter rigs at the moment and have a
20-meter in
> the box that has to be done after the 30-meter is finished.
>
> It is a 2N22/40... Thanks for your help.
>
> I'll post this reply to the 2N2/40 group and we'll see what happens.
Maybe
> someone can help you out.
>
> > 73
> > Gene, N0MQ
>
> 72/73 Gene,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> > PS:
> > Hope to see you at Ozarkcon 2009
>
> I'll be there!!! :-)
>
Jim, and group
I have managed to get 5 Watts RF O/P
What was apparent is that I was lacking an extra RF amplification
stage on my existing manhatten style circuit and was trying to push
extra power on what I already had available, not ideal as this was
prone to instability issues.
Here's what I did, build the RF driver stage and Final amplifier stage
from the Norcal circuit diagram and feed the signal in from the RF
driver stage from T14 (manhattten 2n2-40+ circuit diagram) So in
effect I landed up with 2 x RF drivers in series feeding the Final
amplifier.
Now I have to try and shoe-horn it into my 2n2 rig.
Ivan
G0BON
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Ivan Rogers" wrote:
>
> Thanks for the response Jim,
>
> The TX mixer is the homebrew diode type as in the 2n2-40+ manhatten
> circuit.
>
> And thanks for the other ideas to try, yes I have had some
> instabilities in trying out some things. Hi, Hi.
>
> Ivan
> G0BON
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> >
> > Ivan Rogers wrote:
> > > Jim,
> >
> > Hi Ivan,
> >
> > Sorry for the delay in answering. Other household things got in the
> way of ham
> > radio again! :-)
> > >
> > > Just built the TX cascade amplifier and here are my measurements on
> > > the oscilloscope.
> > >
> > > Junction of T7 and Q18 collector, 3V pk-pk
> >
> > With my 40-meter rig set for 4-watts output, I see 5.6 volts p-p
on the
> > collector of Q18. Of course, it is driving the next stage under those
> > conditions, so much of the power is being passed out to the next
stage.
> >
> > >
> > > End of C103 0.1uf cap (not connected to next stage) 700mV pk-pk,
> > > Norcal manual states 2.759 pk-pk.
> >
> > And I'm seeing 2 volts p-p here without retuning the Cascode Amp and
> with the
> > R87 pot all of the way down. Retuning the Amp would probably yield
> the larger
> > numbers that I put into the Assembly Manual
> > >
> > > So I am nowhere near the O/P I should be getting, any ideas????
> >
> > Has to be incoming drive to the Tx Mixer from the VFO being a being
> a tad low.
> > BTW, what kind of mixer are you using for the Tx Mixer? Is a home
> brew or a
> > commercial unit?
> >
> > You can also bump up the gain of the Cascode Amp by changing the
> value of R91 in
> > the emitter of the 1st transistor, but if you go too low, the whole
> affair will
> > take off and oscillate. The other thing that you could try is to
> change the
> > secondary of T7 to a number of turns where the output power to drive
> the next
> > stage is more, but that also may lead to instability if the load on
> the Cascode
> > Amp is too light.
> >
> > I hope some of the suggestions and data help,
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
>
I started my 2N2/40 longer ago than I like to think about but the time has come for me to finish it up. Before stopping I had completed the RX/TX Driver, VFO, DB Mixer, RF Amp, RX Input Filter, RX Local Oscillator, Mixer Amp, Variable Xtal Filter and the IF Amp. The VFO was tested but can't remember if I tested anything esle so that will be my second step. First I decided to see if there had been any changes to the schematics, the set I used was dated 11/30/98. Found updated schematics on Jim's page, compared them to my old set and did find some differences; Output of Buffered VFO connects to T5-pin 1 of DB Mixer, not pin 4/5 as shown on my old setInput of Mixer Amp connects to T5-pin 4/5 of DB Mixer, not pin 1L9 100uH added to input of Mixer Amp (molded inductor?)R20 of IF Amp changed from 3.3K to 4.7KD19 added to TX Final AmpC61 of TX Output LP Filter changed from 360pF to 330pF Did I miss anything? I'm building mine ugly style in place of using the manhattan technique, constructing a stage on some scrap board then moving it to the main board once it's built and fits in the space allocated. Thanks for your help James SweedenKB7LJP
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3905|3892|2009-02-12 21:27:09|wa5pse|Re: 2n2-40 Final Amp Mods Solved|Ivan,
Congratulations on getting your full output.
I was pursuing a similar approach by "shoehorning" a common emitter
pre-driver in ahead of the driver transistor of my 2N2/20.
There is plenty of room on my board to do that, however, after
building it, my CE circuit made the whole thing unstable.
That caused me to reconsider my approach and, now, I have come up with
a common base design that simply requires some resistor changes to the
CE circuit I built and moving the input to the emitter.
Hopefully, this will provide the stability that I don't have with the
CE circuit.
I love my 2N2/20 receive...it's got the output that my "Small Wonders"
are shy on...and the audio and the xtal filter provide a nice audio
I'd compare to my Drake 2A and Hallicrafters SX-100.
Your success is reassurance that I will work this out too.
73 & 72...Mike WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Ivan Rogers" wrote:
>
> Jim, and group
>
> I have managed to get 5 Watts RF O/P
>
> What was apparent is that I was lacking an extra RF amplification
> stage on my existing manhatten style circuit and was trying to push
> extra power on what I already had available, not ideal as this was
> prone to instability issues.
>
> Here's what I did, build the RF driver stage and Final amplifier stage
> from the Norcal circuit diagram and feed the signal in from the RF
> driver stage from T14 (manhattten 2n2-40+ circuit diagram) So in
> effect I landed up with 2 x RF drivers in series feeding the Final
> amplifier.
>
> Now I have to try and shoe-horn it into my 2n2 rig.
>
> Ivan
> G0BON
>
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Ivan Rogers" wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for the response Jim,
> >
> > The TX mixer is the homebrew diode type as in the 2n2-40+ manhatten
> > circuit.
> >
> > And thanks for the other ideas to try, yes I have had some
> > instabilities in trying out some things. Hi, Hi.
> >
> > Ivan
> > G0BON
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> > >
> > > Ivan Rogers wrote:
> > > > Jim,
> > >
> > > Hi Ivan,
> > >
> > > Sorry for the delay in answering. Other household things got in the
> > way of ham
> > > radio again! :-)
> > > >
> > > > Just built the TX cascade amplifier and here are my
measurements on
> > > > the oscilloscope.
> > > >
> > > > Junction of T7 and Q18 collector, 3V pk-pk
> > >
> > > With my 40-meter rig set for 4-watts output, I see 5.6 volts p-p
> on the
> > > collector of Q18. Of course, it is driving the next stage under
those
> > > conditions, so much of the power is being passed out to the next
> stage.
> > >
> > > >
> > > > End of C103 0.1uf cap (not connected to next stage) 700mV pk-pk,
> > > > Norcal manual states 2.759 pk-pk.
> > >
> > > And I'm seeing 2 volts p-p here without retuning the Cascode Amp and
> > with the
> > > R87 pot all of the way down. Retuning the Amp would probably yield
> > the larger
> > > numbers that I put into the Assembly Manual
> > > >
> > > > So I am nowhere near the O/P I should be getting, any ideas????
> > >
> > > Has to be incoming drive to the Tx Mixer from the VFO being a being
> > a tad low.
> > > BTW, what kind of mixer are you using for the Tx Mixer? Is a home
> > brew or a
> > > commercial unit?
> > >
> > > You can also bump up the gain of the Cascode Amp by changing the
> > value of R91 in
> > > the emitter of the 1st transistor, but if you go too low, the whole
> > affair will
> > > take off and oscillate. The other thing that you could try is to
> > change the
> > > secondary of T7 to a number of turns where the output power to drive
> > the next
> > > stage is more, but that also may lead to instability if the load on
> > the Cascode
> > > Amp is too light.
> > >
> > > I hope some of the suggestions and data help,
> > >
> > > 72,
> > >
> > > Jim, K8IQY
> > >
> >
>
wa5pse wrote:
> Jim, Gene,
Hi Mike,
>
> I'm not quite up to speed on what you're talking about...
>
> Is the AZScorpions board a 2N2/40 project?
Yes, sort of. At the very beginning of the 2N2/40, there were a couple of group
builds organized to acquire parts etc. The AZ gang came up with a 5 X 7 inch
substrate that had the pad locations silk screened on it to help builders get
into doing a Manhattan-style board. They only sold the board, if I remember
correctly. A few of them are still kicking around out there in ham radio land!
>
> Also, is the Norcal rig you're working on one of the surface
> mount20/30 rigs?
No, the NorCal version of the 2N2/XX rig is a complete kit using through hole
parts on a PCB. The only surface mount parts in that kit are the three ADE-1
mixers. Those are large footprint SMT parts, quite easy to install. I'm building
one of the 30-meter kits at the moment; I just finished a 40-meter kit last week.
>
> I have one of the partial kits that are still being sold and was
> looking for someone to co-op parts purchase with.
OK, I'm not sure that anyone has tried to organize a group buy to get the parts
for the 2030 kit.
>
> Also again,...Jim, I really appreciate your suggestions on getting
> more drive out of a 2N2/40...
Refresh my memory Mike, you are building a 2N2/40+ from scratch using the docs
on the 2N2/40 web site?
>
> I have already figured out the transformer winding thing on my own and
> now, will take a look at that resistor.
Both will make a difference, but you have to be careful that you don't try to
get too much gain out of the Cascode Amp. If you push it too hard, it will start
to oscillate.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
JAMES LANA SWEEDEN wrote:
> I started my 2N2/40 longer ago than I like to think about but the time has come for me to finish it up. Before stopping I had completed the RX/TX Driver, VFO, DB Mixer, RF Amp, RX Input Filter, RX Local Oscillator, Mixer Amp, Variable Xtal Filter and the IF Amp. The VFO was tested but can't remember if I tested anything esle so that will be my second step. First I decided to see if there had been any changes to the schematics, the set I used was dated 11/30/98. Found updated schematics on Jim's page, compared them to my old set and did find some differences; Output of Buffered VFO connects to T5-pin 1 of DB Mixer, not pin 4/5 as shown on my old setInput of Mixer Amp connects to T5-pin 4/5 of DB Mixer, not pin 1L9 100uH added to input of Mixer Amp (molded inductor?)
Yes....
R20 of IF Amp changed from 3.3K to 4.7KD19 added to TX Final AmpC61 of TX Output
LP Filter changed from 360pF to 330pF Did I miss anything?
I think you got it all, but don't have the time to double check your work, sorry.
I'm building mine ugly style in place of using the manhattan technique,
That should work fine too. Just harder to trouble shoot I think if something is
not right.
constructing a stage on some scrap board then moving it to the main board once
it's built and fits in the space allocated. Thanks for your help
I always try to do as much as the time in a day will allow.
James SweedenKB7LJP
72 and have fun James,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
> They only sold the board, if I remember
> correctly. A few of them are still kicking around out there in ham
radio land!
Well, I might try to see if I can find one or two of those.
mount20/30 rigs?
> No, the NorCal version of the 2N2/XX rig is a complete kit using
through hole
> parts on a PCB. The only surface mount parts in that kit are the
three ADE-1
Oh, I misunderstood...my pal Brad, in Tulsa, bought on of the new
2N2/40 kits and is making good progress on it.
> one of the 30-meter kits at the moment; I just finished a 40-meter
kit last week.
Ah, 30m, now you're talking!!...I have a MMR40 and a SWL30...
The MMR40 is a fine little 40m rig, but, I think I'd like something a
bit hotter (all the way around) for 30m.
> OK, I'm not sure that anyone has tried to organize a group buy to
get the parts
> for the 2030 kit.
Guess I'm still on my own on that one...Couldn't find a 20/30 Yahoo
group...so will try the qrp-tech group for some contacts there.
> Refresh my memory Mike, you are building a 2N2/40+ from scratch
using the docs
> on the 2N2/40 web site?
Brad and I were were building 2N2/20's 800 miles apart that we started
a couple of years ago. We co-oped the parts purchases.
We've pretty much got them built now...I don't know where Brad is on
his for sure...He's turned his attention lately to his new 2N2/40 kit.
I've posted pictures of my 2N2/20 build here on the group site.
> Both will make a difference, but you have to be careful that you
don't try to
> get too much gain out of the Cascode Amp. If you push it too hard,
it will start
> to oscillate.
Yeh, found that out when I built a PN2222 CE transistor
"pre-driver"...I got gobs of output sporadically, but, it was not
stable or clean!
However, the pads are in the right place to re-do with a CB
configuration for better input to output isolation.
I think I'll bypass that amp to try out the resistor change you
suggest and see how that goes.
I know I'll find a solution, be it the "pre-driver" or whatever, I
just like the experimenting challenge.
MikeIvan Rogers wrote:
> Jim
Hi Ivan,
>
> I am curious to know why the Norcal designed rig uses diplexers / 3db pads as terminators and the Manhatten style circuits do not.
Well actually, there is more similarity than not of one versus the other. All of
the 2N2 designs have used common base input amplifiers for terminating mixers
and filters, since those present a very constant impedance (set for 50 Ohms)
across a rather wide frequency range. That said, I also learned along the way
that adding attenuator pads was appropriate when connecting one stage to another
where additional isolation would be beneficial or I needed to kill off some power.
>
> I guess the dB pads diplexers are the best way to terminate a mixer to ensure a 50R termination impedence. so why did the manhatten style circuit not have them.
Mixers like to see 50 Ohms on all of their ports, but some ports are more fussy
than others. The IF port is the most fussy if one is to keep the LO and RF
feedthrough to a minimum on that port. Mixers are not intrinsically 50 Ohm
devices. When MiniCircuits tests one, they load each of the ports with about 70
dB of attenuation for the various tests. To achieve something close to the
performance they measure, some amount of circuitry to limit the impedance range
the port sees constitutes good design practice. When I did the original 2N2/40
design 11 years ago, I didn't know all of the good mixer terminating stuff that
I know now! :-) The NorCal rigs have benefited from some of that knowledge.
>
> Are the homebrewer mixers more tolerent then the ADE-1 when terminating
No, the very same as the ADE-1.
>
> As my Manhatten rig works as designed to the circuit I am not too worried about it, but I am only inquistive to broaden my knowledge in circuit design and what your way of thinking was.
If we were to run some severe tests on your Manhattan-style rig, we would find
that is doesn't perform quite as well as the NorCal rigs. All a benefit of Jim
learning how to do things better. :-)
72 and I hope I've provided a sufficient answer,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi gang,
Is there currently a kit of parts on the market for building a Manhattan style 2N2/xx? I believe there was such a kit at one time, but my searches aren't locating it.
Thanks & 72,
Jeff
NE2J
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3911|3910|2009-03-26 17:35:40|Gene|Re: 2N2/xx Parts Kit?|Jeff:
I have one of the kits. I believe that they were put together in
1999 but not for sure. Mine also has the silk screened board.
I do not know if all the parts are there but ther is a large sack full. I would be glad to send you a photo of it and do not know what it is worth.
72
Gene, N0MQ
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff T. Casey
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 4:24 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2/xx Parts Kit?
Hi gang,
Is there currently a kit of parts on the market for building a Manhattan style 2N2/xx? I believe there was such a kit at one time, but my searches aren't locating it.
Thanks & 72,
Jeff
NE2J
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jeff T. Casey wrote:
> Hi gang,
Greetings Jeff,
>
> Is there currently a kit of parts on the market for building a Manhattan style 2N2/xx?
Not that I am aware of. All of the parts kit were from various organized group
buys that were done many years ago, back when the original 2N2/40 design was
published. I think Dan at Dan's Small Parts also did some kind of parts kit but
I'm told there were a lot of "junk" parts in the offering. I don't know as I
never saw one.
I believe there was such a kit at one time, but my searches aren't locating it.
If you went back through the 2N2-40 archives you could probably find some of the
references to them. I know I did 300+ filter sets for those parts kits, most of
which never got used, as there are far fewer 2N2/40 built than filter kits that
I did. :-(
The current offering by NorCal of the 2N2/XX kits has all of the right parts for
the current flavor of the design, and you get a custom case and PCB thrown in.
The $125 price tag is essentially the cost of the parts without much profit for
NorCal. You could get one of those kits later on when they open up the ordering
again. They still have kits in stock.
>
> Thanks & 72,
> Jeff
> NE2J
>
You bet.....thanks for asking. I hope you find the parts you need and will
build a rig.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I've been looking through the various items posted in the "files" and "pictures" section here and I must admit I'm quite impressed. Jim, K8IQY certainly has developed a nice little rig that has shown "staying power" for a good number of years, as this list testifies.
I think I'd like to take a try at a 2n2-40 using Larry, K3PEG's Enhanced Manhattan templates.
Would someone here mind pointing me in the right direction as far as where to start with things like making sure I am using the most up to date schematic, parts list, etc.
The first thing I noticed is that when I downloaded the file containing Larry's 2n2-40 EM template, it seems to measure a bit shy of 5" x 7" (and boy do those parts look small!!...hi). Am I correct that the file here (dated April 27, 2005 and posted in the "files section on May 1, 2005) is the one to use and paste to my ground plane? Or do I need to look elsewhere?
This seems to be a pretty active group so I would imagine this sort of question gets asked often, if taht's the case, I appreciate your indulgence with this.
Tnx es 73
Tom
WB2QDG
|
3914|3913|2009-03-29 17:10:44|Ivan Rogers|Re: How should I start?|Tom
Yes, this I think is the latest file.
I too built the 2n2-40+ to K3PEG's layout, rather than stick the layout on the ground plane, I just marked the board out into sectors and used the pads template to stick the manhatten pads into the approximate positions, but this depends on ones personal taste.
I first started building the DC input, then VFO section, then audio sections working backwards to the receiver input section. After that the transmitter was built stage by stage up to and including the final amplifier.
I would build each stage, test it then move onto the next stage.
There are plenty of oscilloscope diagnostic diagrams in the photo's section on the left.
Stumbling blocks I came across were:
Its easy to get the 1 turn link winding on the Norton amplfier phased the wrong way.
I found it helpful use a trimmer capacitor paralled with C12 on T12 transformer primary to inject maximum signal from the VFO into the 1st receiver diode mixer (you may need to experiment with C12 value depending on what value trimmer you have.)
I used three legged trimmer capacitors as thats what was in my junkbox which made things a bit tight on the board.
With regards board size, you might want to think about if you which to modify the board later on.
I.E. Although I built the 2n2-40+ on the 5"x7" K3PEG size layout I ended up modifying my design by adding the Freqmite morse frequency announciator and an extra driver stage and new final amplifier stage to boost my output up to 5 Watts. The freqmite was able to be mounted at the corner of the board with the supplied bracket and my new amplifier stages were built manhatten style on a piece of board that was tacked/soldered on its edge onto the main board.
I was happy to get my first "real" DX contact on 40mtrs QRP just recently into Jamaica. with only a 100ft doublet only 30ft up at the apex. And you will find the receiver section one of the best in terms of sensitivity and selectivity that you will have built.
Good luck on your construction project there is always help on this forum not far away if you get stuck.
73's
Ivan
G0BON
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "redmen1969" wrote:
>
> I've been looking through the various items posted in the "files" and "pictures" section here and I must admit I'm quite impressed. Jim, K8IQY certainly has developed a nice little rig that has shown "staying power" for a good number of years, as this list testifies.
>
> I think I'd like to take a try at a 2n2-40 using Larry, K3PEG's Enhanced Manhattan templates.
>
> Would someone here mind pointing me in the right direction as far as where to start with things like making sure I am using the most up to date schematic, parts list, etc.
>
> The first thing I noticed is that when I downloaded the file containing Larry's 2n2-40 EM template, it seems to measure a bit shy of 5" x 7" (and boy do those parts look small!!...hi). Am I correct that the file here (dated April 27, 2005 and posted in the "files section on May 1, 2005) is the one to use and paste to my ground plane? Or do I need to look elsewhere?
>
> This seems to be a pretty active group so I would imagine this sort of question gets asked often, if taht's the case, I appreciate your indulgence with this.
>
> Tnx es 73
>
> Tom
> WB2QDG
>
Hi all,
Those of you who have never built Manhattan style (I was one) may want to check out this new push-pull audio amp kit from 4 States QRP Group.
4sqrp.com
Designed by Jim, K8IQY with manual and layout option by Larry, K3PEG.
I built mine by routing out pads in the board with a Dremel bur, just to be doing it the hard way. I haven't put power to it yet.
73
Greg
AI4EV
|
3916|3913|2009-04-01 00:25:25|redmen1969|Re: How should I start?|Hi Ivan,
Thanks, that's exactly the info I was hoping for. I appreciate your insights and experience. I'll let you know how I make out. I'm sure I'll be posting questions as I go along.
Tnx agn,
Tom
WB2QDG
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Ivan Rogers" wrote:
>
> Tom
>
> Yes, this I think is the latest file.
>
> I too built the 2n2-40+ to K3PEG's layout, rather than stick the layout on the ground plane, I just marked the board out into sectors and used the pads template to stick the manhatten pads into the approximate positions, but this depends on ones personal taste.
>
> I first started building the DC input, then VFO section, then audio sections working backwards to the receiver input section. After that the transmitter was built stage by stage up to and including the final amplifier.
>
> I would build each stage, test it then move onto the next stage.
> There are plenty of oscilloscope diagnostic diagrams in the photo's section on the left.
>
> Stumbling blocks I came across were:
> Its easy to get the 1 turn link winding on the Norton amplfier phased the wrong way.
> I found it helpful use a trimmer capacitor paralled with C12 on T12 transformer primary to inject maximum signal from the VFO into the 1st receiver diode mixer (you may need to experiment with C12 value depending on what value trimmer you have.)
> I used three legged trimmer capacitors as thats what was in my junkbox which made things a bit tight on the board.
>
> With regards board size, you might want to think about if you which to modify the board later on.
> I.E. Although I built the 2n2-40+ on the 5"x7" K3PEG size layout I ended up modifying my design by adding the Freqmite morse frequency announciator and an extra driver stage and new final amplifier stage to boost my output up to 5 Watts. The freqmite was able to be mounted at the corner of the board with the supplied bracket and my new amplifier stages were built manhatten style on a piece of board that was tacked/soldered on its edge onto the main board.
>
> I was happy to get my first "real" DX contact on 40mtrs QRP just recently into Jamaica. with only a 100ft doublet only 30ft up at the apex. And you will find the receiver section one of the best in terms of sensitivity and selectivity that you will have built.
>
> Good luck on your construction project there is always help on this forum not far away if you get stuck.
>
> 73's
> Ivan
> G0BON
>
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "redmen1969" wrote:
> >
> > I've been looking through the various items posted in the "files" and "pictures" section here and I must admit I'm quite impressed. Jim, K8IQY certainly has developed a nice little rig that has shown "staying power" for a good number of years, as this list testifies.
> >
> > I think I'd like to take a try at a 2n2-40 using Larry, K3PEG's Enhanced Manhattan templates.
> >
> > Would someone here mind pointing me in the right direction as far as where to start with things like making sure I am using the most up to date schematic, parts list, etc.
> >
> > The first thing I noticed is that when I downloaded the file containing Larry's 2n2-40 EM template, it seems to measure a bit shy of 5" x 7" (and boy do those parts look small!!...hi). Am I correct that the file here (dated April 27, 2005 and posted in the "files section on May 1, 2005) is the one to use and paste to my ground plane? Or do I need to look elsewhere?
> >
> > This seems to be a pretty active group so I would imagine this sort of question gets asked often, if taht's the case, I appreciate your indulgence with this.
> >
> > Tnx es 73
> >
> > Tom
> > WB2QDG
> >
>
Hello everyone. Today I completed and uploaded my Enhanced Manhattan template for Jim Kortge's 2n2/20 transceiver design. This new file replaces the old one that WAS in the file section. Changes were made to address the errors that some of you pointed out. The template was also updated to reflect the latest K8IQY schematic set dated March 8, 2005.
Sorry for the delay in doing this; I've been having medical problems.
The template was checked against the schematics by Ron, K3PF and Jim, AL7FS and I thank them very much for their help!
72 es 73,
Larry, K3PEG
|
3919|3919|2009-05-13 17:27:01|identry|Anyone have an extra kit?|I know I'm coming late to the 2n2/40 game, but I just passed my Tech & General exams last weekend and I'm looking for a QRP/CW rig to build. I've looked at a bunch, and I keep coming back to the 2n2.
I am actually a former (like 20 years ago) Advanced-class amateur and built a HW-100 in High School. I like to think I'm smarter (or at least more patient) than I was back then, so think I could probably get it working.
Anyway, before I start ordering parts, I figured I'd send out a call to see if anyone already has a bag of parts he/she would like to part with.
If so, please shoot me an email off list at john at identry dot com.
Thanks a bunch.
-- John (ex-WB2IEM... no idea what my new call sign will be)
|
3920|3919|2009-05-13 20:31:09|identry|Re: Anyone have an extra kit?|> Anyway, before I start ordering parts, I figured I'd send out a call to see if anyone already has a bag of parts he/she would like to part with.
Found one!
-- John
I'm building a NorCal 2n2/40 and one of my goals is to actually understand how the different parts of the radio work.
Has anyone written a description of how each section works?
Alternatively, can anyone suggest a book or books that explain -- in reasonably simple terms -- how similar circuits work?
I've been thinking about the ARRL 'Basic Radio' book, but I haven't see this so not sure if it goes into enough detail.
http://www.arrl.org/catalog/?item=9558 Anyway, any thoughts or recommendations much appreciated.
Thanks: John/KC2VFT
> Alternatively, can anyone suggest a book or books that explain -- in reasonably simple terms -- how similar circuits work?
Well, I just received the Handbook in the mail (gotta love Amazon used books.) I wasn't exactly sure what it would cover, but it looks like it will keep me busy for awhile :-)
I'm going to blog my build of the 2n2/40, including my ideas about how the various chunks work, on
http://jalmberg.blogspot.com/ I find that explaining something to someone is the best way to learn something. If anyone is interested, please feel free to correct any of my errors by posting corrections to the blog.
Can't wait to get started on it...
-- John
identry wrote:
> I'm building a NorCal 2n2/40 and one of my goals is to actually understand how the different parts of the radio work.
That is a noble endeavor!
>
> Has anyone written a description of how each section works?
Yes, I wrote a general description of the rig and its operational theory back
when the article in QRPp was published in the Winter of 1998. I just dug out the
words to that article and will put them on my web site this afternoon under the
Original 2N2/40 link. The PDF file can be viewed or downloaded from the
Documentation link.
>
> Alternatively, can anyone suggest a book or books that explain -- in reasonably simple terms -- how similar circuits work?
The 1998 Winter Issue of QRPp has that info as does the reprint the Paul Harden,
NA5N was selling. Those are kinda hard to find though, and I'm not sure that
Paul will be printing anymore of them. I'll ask him if it isn't time to put all
of that information, including his illustrations, out on the web. Keep your
fingers crossed! :-)
>
> I've been thinking about the ARRL 'Basic Radio' book, but I haven't see this so not sure if it goes into enough detail.
>
> http://www.arrl.org/catalog/?item=9558
Don't know, have not seen it either. The EMFRD book is highly recommended
learning all of the basics of how various radios work, along with transmitters,
audio circuits etc.
>
> Anyway, any thoughts or recommendations much appreciated.
See above.....
>
> Thanks: John/KC2VFT
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
>> Has anyone written a description of how each section works?
>
> Yes, I wrote a general description of the rig and its operational theory back when the article in QRPp was published in the Winter of 1998. I just dug out the words to that article and will put them on my web site this afternoon under the Original 2N2/40 link. The PDF file can be viewed or downloaded from the Documentation link.
Fantastic. That will be a big help.
>> Alternatively, can anyone suggest a book or books that explain -- in reasonably simple terms -- how similar circuits work?
> The EMFRD book is highly recommended learning all of the basics of how various radios work, along with transmitters, audio circuits etc.
That acronym would be a mystery to me, except for the fact that Chuck Adams gave me the same recommendation last week. Sounds like it's a "must have".
Thanks a lot, Jim.
Brgds: John
>
> Yes, I wrote a general description of the rig and its operational
> theory back
> when the article in QRPp was published in the Winter of 1998. I
> just dug out the
> words to that article and will put them on my web site this
> afternoon under the
> Original 2N2/40 link. The PDF file can be viewed or downloaded from
> the
> Documentation link.
>
Thanks for posting that article, Jim. I appreciate it.
-- John
What is the URL for Jim's 2N2 article?
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
John Almberg wrote:
>> Yes, I wrote a general description of the rig and its operational
>> theory back
>> when the article in QRPp was published in the Winter of 1998. I
>> just dug out the
>> words to that article and will put them on my web site this
>> afternoon under the
>> Original 2N2/40 link. The PDF file can be viewed or downloaded from
>> the
>> Documentation link.
>>
>>
> Thanks for posting that article, Jim. I appreciate it.
>
> -- John
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
<
http://www.k8iqy.com/qrprigs/2n240/K8IQYs%20Original%202N2-40%20Article.pdf>
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Lee Mairs (SAG)" <
lmairs@sagcorp.com>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Circuit description available?
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 16:12:14 -0400
What is the URL for Jim's 2N2 article?
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
John Almberg wrote:
>> Yes, I wrote a general description of the rig and its operational
>> theory back
>> when the article in QRPp was published in the Winter of 1998. I
>> just dug out the
>> words to that article and will put them on my web site this
>> afternoon under the
>> Original 2N2/40 link. The PDF file can be viewed or downloaded from
>> the
>> Documentation link.
>>
>>
> Thanks for posting that article, Jim. I appreciate it.
>
> -- John
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
I've just finished building the "Receive Product Detector" section of a NorCal 2n2/40 kit.
All previous sections have tested fine. In particular, in the test which immediately preceded this section I measured at the top of R28 0.75 volts peak using a home brew RF probe (from K7QO's Lab Notebook) and a VOM. This was a bit more than the 0.7 volts expected.
After installing the Receive Product Detector, the same test is repeated, with 0.2 volts peak expected. I measured what looks on my analog VOM about 0.1 volts.
The other test is to attach an antenna to the left pad of C37. I did so, and heard clear atmospherics. The headphones are almost quiet with no antenna, and after an antenna is attached loud atmospherics are heard.
I've triple checked everything.
My question: is the 0.1 volt measurement significant enough to stop? Could the problem be my VOM? Is it worth going out and buying a DVM to be sure? Is the fact that I can hear atmospherics with an antenna attached good enough evidence to justify going on to the next step?
Any thoughts, much appreciated.
Brgds: John
|
3930|3929|2009-05-26 08:46:48|identry|Re: Build question|> My question: is the 0.1 volt measurement significant enough to stop? Could the problem be my VOM? Is it worth going out and buying a DVM to be sure? Is the fact that I can hear atmospherics with an antenna attached good enough evidence to justify going on to the next step?
I've been reading up on this problem and am now starting to think that 0.2V is too low for a simple RF probe to measure accurately. Since the 'listen for static' test seems to work fine, I think I'm going to carry on under the assumption that my equipment isn't good enough to accurately measure such low RF voltage...
BTW, if anyone in the NY/Long Island area has an oscilloscope for sale, I'm interested!
Thanks: John
identry wrote:
> I've just finished building the "Receive Product Detector" section of a NorCal 2n2/40 kit.
>
> All previous sections have tested fine. In particular, in the test which immediately preceded this section I measured at the top of R28 0.75 volts peak using a home brew RF probe (from K7QO's Lab Notebook) and a VOM. This was a bit more than the 0.7 volts expected.
>
> After installing the Receive Product Detector, the same test is repeated, with 0.2 volts peak expected. I measured what looks on my analog VOM about 0.1 volts.
>
> The other test is to attach an antenna to the left pad of C37. I did so, and heard clear atmospherics. The headphones are almost quiet with no antenna, and after an antenna is attached loud atmospherics are heard.
If you are hearing atmospherics John, it is working fine.
>
> I've triple checked everything.
>
> My question: is the 0.1 volt measurement significant enough to stop?
Probably not. Most likely due to a combination of the RF Probe you are using in
conjunction with the VOM. I would not worry about the voltage level, and
continue on building.
Could the problem be my VOM?
Might be......
Is it worth going out and buying a DVM to be sure?
No.
Is the fact that I can hear atmospherics with an antenna attached good enough
evidence to justify going on to the next step?
Yes, that's what is really important. The product detector is working as it
should if you are hearing atmospherics.
>
> Any thoughts, much appreciated.
See above.
72 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
> > My question: is the 0.1 volt measurement significant enough to stop?
>
> Probably not. Most likely due to a combination of the RF Probe you are using in conjunction with the VOM. I would not worry about the voltage level, and continue on building.
Jim,
Thanks for the quick answer. I had pretty much decided that the problem was in the RF probe... I read somewhere that for measuring higher voltages, you need to add about 0.25 volts for the voltage dropped across the diode in the probe. I figured if the VOM meter was moving at all (which it did -- barely), then it was probably close to .3 volts total. That makes sense, since all the voltages I've measured so far have been a bit higher than expected.
Anyway, I'm winding my first toroid ever, and enjoying it immensely! I found a trick on the Internet of using a chopstick in a vise to hold the core. You can just press the toroid and turns onto the chopstick whenever necessary, and it holds everything in place.
Knock-on-wood, so far the build has been easier than expected. I'm just going slow and careful...
-- John
I just finished building the Receive Post-Mixer Amplifier section of a 2n2/40. During the test, I could hear CW above the static. It was too fast for me to copy, but I was wondering what frequency the receiver is 'tuned' to at this stage of the build?
-- John
|
3934|3933|2009-05-29 11:46:27|Jim Kortge|Re: What frequency?|John wrote:
> I just finished building the Receive Post-Mixer Amplifier section of a 2n2/40. During the test, I could hear CW above the static. It was too fast for me to copy, but I was wondering what frequency the receiver is 'tuned' to at this stage of the build?
Approximately 4.916 MHz. Everything coming into the Post Mixer Amp from the
antenna is being amplified, and "stuff" in the IF Passband is being sent through
and demodulated.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
>
> John wrote:
>
> > I just finished building the Receive Post-Mixer Amplifier section of a 2n2/40. During the test, I could hear CW above the static. It was too fast for me to copy, but I was wondering what frequency the receiver is 'tuned' to at this stage of the build?
>
> Approximately 4.916 MHz. Everything coming into the Post Mixer Amp from the
> antenna is being amplified, and "stuff" in the IF Passband is being sent through
> and demodulated.
That make sense. It sure was a surprising strong signal, considering the receiver is only half built and I was only using a few feet of wire dangling across my workbench in the basement.Grrr...
I was hoping to finish the receive strip of my 2n2/40 by the weekend. Was winding L5 and L8 tonight, and I *broke* one of the cores! Good thing there were no open mikes around :-)
Anyway, I have a replacement on order, but I was wondering what would happen if I left one of them out for the moment? Would the receiver still work? Which one (L5 or L8) would be better to leave out.
If this is a dumb newbie question, that's okay, let me know. I'm just anxious to get something working :-)
72 John KC2VFT
|
3937|3936|2009-06-02 22:49:25|Jim Kortge|Re: Gently with the toroid cores!|identry wrote:
> Grrr...
I've heard that before! :-)
>
> I was hoping to finish the receive strip of my 2n2/40 by the weekend. Was winding L5 and L8 tonight, and I *broke* one of the cores!
Is that the result of pushing it on to the chop stick to get the internal turns
against the core? I'm guessing it was. That's why I don't recommend doing
that. But, most builders ignore my advice to wind toroids using a #2 plastic
crochet hook. You use the hook to pull the wire from the outside through the
center of the core, which results in the wire being wrapped tight against the
outer surface AND the inner surface, without stressing the core and scraping
insulation off of the wire too. Reaching through the center of the core with the
hook becomes very natural to do after a bit of practice and the resulting wound
toroids are a thing of beauty!
Good thing there were no open mikes around :-)
Roger that......
>
> Anyway, I have a replacement on order, but I was wondering what would happen if I left one of them out for the moment? Would the receiver still work?
Not at all well. The pair of toroids form a coupled resonator bandpass filter,
but more importantly, each toroid plays a vital role in transforming the
impedance in to and out of the filter via the tapped capacitor arrangements on
each end.
Which one (L5 or L8) would be better to leave out.
It won't matter. The performance will suffer significantly with either one missing.
>
> If this is a dumb newbie question, that's okay, let me know.
There are no dumb newbie questions. The only ones that are dumb are the ones
that don't get asked. Your teachers in school were right! :-)
I'm just anxious to get something working :-)
I certainly understand that. Who did you order the replacement from?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
> > I was hoping to finish the receive strip of my 2n2/40 by the weekend. Was winding L5 and L8 tonight, and I *broke* one of the cores!
>
> Is that the result of pushing it on to the chop stick to get the internal turns
> against the core? I'm guessing it was.
Got it in one, Jim.
> That's why I don't recommend doing
> that. But, most builders ignore my advice to wind toroids using a #2 plastic
> crochet hook.
As my grandfather used to tell me, "You can't teach experience."
There is a whole web page, with a high Google ranking, devoted to the chopstick method. I found the information very convincing and it is an easy method for beginners. Problem is, you do need to exert some force on the core to get the windings tight. Sure wish it had mentioned that the darn cores are breakable. It never occurred to me.
> You use the hook to pull the wire from the outside through the
> center of the core, which results in the wire being wrapped tight against the
> outer surface AND the inner surface, without stressing the core and scraping
> insulation off of the wire too. Reaching through the center of the core with the
> hook becomes very natural to do after a bit of practice and the resulting wound
> toroids are a thing of beauty!
So, do you just hold the toroid with one hand and use the hook with the other? Simple as that?
> > Anyway, I have a replacement on order, but I was wondering what would happen if I left one of them out for the moment? Would the receiver still work?
>
> Not at all well. The pair of toroids form a coupled resonator bandpass filter,
> but more importantly, each toroid plays a vital role in transforming the
> impedance in to and out of the filter via the tapped capacitor arrangements on
> each end.
Okay, sounds like a good thing to read up on.
> Who did you order the replacement from?
universal-radio.com. They have Amidon cores and the price seemed right... pkg of 5 for $4.
-- John
I was wondering, could you glue the toroid together with super glue and
carry on?
Ted
On Wed, 2009-06-03 at 11:44 +0000, identry wrote:
> > > I was hoping to finish the receive strip of my 2n2/40 by the weekend. Was winding L5 and L8 tonight, and I *broke* one of the cores!
> >
> > Is that the result of pushing it on to the chop stick to get the internal turns
> > against the core? I'm guessing it was.
>
> Got it in one, Jim.
>
> > That's why I don't recommend doing
> > that. But, most builders ignore my advice to wind toroids using a #2 plastic
> > crochet hook.
>
> As my grandfather used to tell me, "You can't teach experience."
>
> There is a whole web page, with a high Google ranking, devoted to the chopstick method. I found the information very convincing and it is an easy method for beginners. Problem is, you do need to exert some force on the core to get the windings tight. Sure wish it had mentioned that the darn cores are breakable. It never occurred to me.
>
> > You use the hook to pull the wire from the outside through the
> > center of the core, which results in the wire being wrapped tight against the
> > outer surface AND the inner surface, without stressing the core and scraping
> > insulation off of the wire too. Reaching through the center of the core with the
> > hook becomes very natural to do after a bit of practice and the resulting wound
> > toroids are a thing of beauty!
>
> So, do you just hold the toroid with one hand and use the hook with the other? Simple as that?
>
> > > Anyway, I have a replacement on order, but I was wondering what would happen if I left one of them out for the moment? Would the receiver still work?
> >
> > Not at all well. The pair of toroids form a coupled resonator bandpass filter,
> > but more importantly, each toroid plays a vital role in transforming the
> > impedance in to and out of the filter via the tapped capacitor arrangements on
> > each end.
>
> Okay, sounds like a good thing to read up on.
>
> > Who did you order the replacement from?
>
> universal-radio.com. They have Amidon cores and the price seemed right... pkg of 5 for $4.
>
> -- John
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, ted
wrote:
>
> I was wondering, could you glue the toroid together with super glue and
> carry on?
Super glue didn't work. I guess the ends are too porous or rough. But 2 part epoxy (recommended by someone else) seems to work. No idea what the glue will do to the inductance of the coil, but I will give it a try while I wait for the new core to arrive.
-- John> my advice to wind toroids using a #2 plastic
> crochet hook. You use the hook to pull the wire from the outside through the
> center of the core, which results in the wire being wrapped tight against the
> outer surface AND the inner surface, without stressing the core and scraping
> insulation off of the wire too. Reaching through the center of the core with the
> hook becomes very natural to do after a bit of practice and the resulting wound
> toroids are a thing of beauty!
Ahhhhh!
You know, I really couldn't visualize how this would work beforehand. But not being a darned fool, I went out and bought a plastic crochet hook today. It took a minute or two to get the hang of it, but then I got it.
You are correct. The turns are much neater and its actually much faster than using the chopstick method.
Thanks, Jim.
-- John
--- In
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "identry"
wrote:
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, ted wrote:
> >
> > I was wondering, could you glue the toroid together with super glue and
> > carry on?
>
> Super glue didn't work. I guess the ends are too porous or rough. But 2 part epoxy (recommended by someone else) seems to work. No idea what the glue will do to the inductance of the coil, but I will give it a try while I wait for the new core to arrive.
H'mmm...
I'm not too sure about this idea of gluing a core back together. I tried it, but the results are pretty unsatisfactory. I used the glued core as T5 and installed the rest of the Receive RF Gain and RF Mute components.
The result is that I have a much louder signal if I put an antenna on the L8 side of C19 than I do if I put it on the L5 side.
The signal is further decreased if I put the antenna on the C95 side of TC3.
TC3, TC4, and TC5 can all be peaked, but the farther left I inject the antenna, the weaker the band noise, and that doesn't seem right.
Furthermore, there is a loud oscillation near the low end of the tuning range that I do not believe was there before. It's an internal signal... has nothing to do with the antenna.
So it looks like something is going bad in the neighborhood of L5... I'm guessing it's L5 itself. Which is probably why Jim didn't say something like "well, just glue it back together!"
Anyway, it was good practice with my new crochet hook. Guesss I'll just have to wait for the core to arrive in the mail. As painful as that wait will be :-)
-- John> I'm not too sure about this idea of gluing a core back together. I tried it, but the results are pretty unsatisfactory. I used the glued core as T5 and installed the rest of the Receive RF Gain and RF Mute components.
>
> The result is that I have a much louder signal if I put an antenna on the L8 side of C19 than I do if I put it on the L5 side.
>
> The signal is further decreased if I put the antenna on the C95 side of TC3.
>
> TC3, TC4, and TC5 can all be peaked, but the farther left I inject the antenna, the weaker the band noise, and that doesn't seem right.
>
> Furthermore, there is a loud oscillation near the low end of the tuning range that I do not believe was there before. It's an internal signal... has nothing to do with the antenna.
>
> So it looks like something is going bad in the neighborhood of L5... I'm guessing it's L5 itself. Which is probably why Jim didn't say something like "well, just glue it back together!"
>
> Anyway, it was good practice with my new crochet hook. Guesss I'll just have to wait for the core to arrive in the mail. As painful as that wait will be :-)
Actually, I wonder if I haven't done something even more fundamentally wrong...
I wasn't really paying much attention to what direction I wound L5 and L8. The result was, of course, that I wound them in different directions. Therefore, to install L5, I had to 'cross' the two leads.
I.e., L5 is wired 'backwards'.
I was just looking at the board, and noticed that L5 and L8 are right next to each other. It occurred to me that it might (here is where we get into newbie guesses!) be important that the electric fields around these two coils interact in some way. Having them in the wrong phase or direction could be the exact opposite of what's desired, thus accounting for the lack of gain in the Q20 stage, and maybe even the weird oscillation.
I should disconnect L5 to see what happens, but my soldering iron has gone cold and I need to get up for work in a few hours. Will leave that experiment for tomorrow.
Fun stuff, though!
-- John
Jim,
I am a long-time admirer of your work and old-time acquaintance. We met at a Pacificon many moons ago and you were kind enough to let me take copious picturs of your famous second-prototype 2N2-40 and gracious enough to tolerate my ignorant questions.
In any event, my friend Dick Palmer, WB6JDH, has finally nudged me over the edge and I want to begin building the 20 meter version. I will try to search this site and ask intelligent questions (newbies who do not do research can be annoying) but, preliminarily, I am wondering if you can give me the run-down on what kits of parts exists out there.
I am particularly interested if you still have the 11 MHz crystals for the 20 meter rig? I will happily pay the asking price -- I remember it being very reasonable -- and pledge that these wil not just sit on my shelf. I also solcit recommendations from members of the group for other hard-to-find items.
By way of reciprocation, as I get back into this and paw through my junk box, I will be glad to let the group know what I have available. For example, I think I have a cache of the 4.xxx MHz crystals for the 2N2-40 version.
My thanks in advance to the group for help and advice.
Regards,
Bill, k6whp
Fountain Valley, CA
|
3945|3945|2009-06-23 17:57:09|John Jeffers|whitelist group on my server|72's John Ve3gyv/Kf5afj
|
3946|3946|2009-07-10 21:40:32|Larry Przyborowski|Fw: The Wisdom of the Aged|--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mortgage rates dropped. Record lows. $200,000 for $1,029/mo Fixed. LendingTree®
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3947|3947|2009-07-11 21:23:29|Larry Przyborowski|Re: Digest Number 926|2N2-40/30/20/15 BuildersI did NOT post the message shown below!
Pse disregard ANY messages not relayed to ham radio as they are NOT from me.
At the time the message was posted I was at a hospital visiting a relative.
Larry, K3PEG
----- Original Message -----
From: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2009 1:48 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Digest Number 926
2N2-40/30/20/15 Builders
Messages In This Digest (1 Message)
1. Fw: The Wisdom of the Aged From: Larry Przyborowski
View All Topics | Create New Topic Message
1. Fw: The Wisdom of the Aged
Posted by: "Larry Przyborowski" k3peg@verizon.net k3peg
Fri Jul 10, 2009 6:40 pm (PDT)
----------------------------------------------------------
Mortgage rates dropped. Record lows. $200,000 for $1,029/mo Fixed. LendingTree®
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Larry Przyborowski said:
> 2N2-40/30/20/15 BuildersI did NOT post the message shown below!
> Pse disregard ANY messages not relayed to ham radio as they are NOT from
> me.
> At the time the message was posted I was at a hospital visiting a
> relative.
>
> Larry, K3PEG
Have you ever or do you now use any product or service that consolidates
or organizes your Yahoo groups? Those are known to be abused for spamming
groups and harvesting email addresses.
DAve
--
"Posterity, you will know how much it cost the present generation to
preserve your freedom. I hope you will make good use of it. If you
do not, I shall repent in heaven that ever I took half the pains to
preserve it." John Quincy Adams
http://appleseedinfo.orgHi Gil,
Remember me (a current photo is attached) ? I am pleased that Ted Bauer
found you. And, I do remember you QSOing with the JHU radio club via CW, at
high speed, copying the code in your head. I did envy that feat and it
wasn't until 1998 that I upgraded to Extra Class at 20 wpm. It was a
difficult feat for me as I first learned the Morse using dots and dashes,
Yeech!
I am presently out of work (since Dec 2008) with a bad spinal stenosis
problem. I am employed at Northrop Grumman Corp as a Senior Test Engineer.
Again, I'm happy to make contact with you after all the years that have
passed. I have seen and talked to John Chitwood many times over the years
by 'bumping' into him at local hamfests. I'm not tooactiveon the air these
days but I do built electronic projects and am involved with a couple of
radio clubs. Ham TV (fastscan SD) on 426 MHz is one of my favorites.
I have many FOND memories of the BPI radio club and the club members I knew.
Enough from me for now.
73,
Larry Przyborowski
Ham Radio K3PEG
BPI, class of '63
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
3950|3949|2009-09-04 08:49:17|Larry Przyborowski|Hi Poly boy!|Hi Group,
Sorry for this message sent in error.
73,
Larry K3PEG
|
3951|3951|2010-04-13 23:11:24|Russ|PVXO|Finally got Jim's PVXO to work. I've been working on it off and on, mostly off, for the last 5-6 years. I built it manhattan style from the schematic. For some unknown reason, it seems to work much better if you clean the toriod wires completely and then solder them to the correct pads.
I thought that I had it fixed when I found the broken wire on the main tuning pot, but after fixing it, all it would do was oscillate about 2.5MHz higher than the frequency printed on the crystal with a 1MHz variation in the oscillation.
So I decided that I had the toroid wired in backwards. I swapped the end wires. Then it did nothing, so I move the wires back to the original pads. When I started it up again, it was on frequency and dead solid. All I can figure is a bad solder joint on one of the toroid pads. I left it running for about 3.5 hours while I was out to church and when I came back the frequency had changed less than 5Hz.
The crystal test fixture worked from the first time I turned it on. I built it manhattan style also, from the schematic in Jim's paper on crystal testing.
So, now that I've sorted the 4.9152 crystals and have 4 that are at 9Hz or less variation, I can start on the 2N2-40+ that I've been about to build all these years.
Thanks to all who came before me and posted their problems and solutions here. And for leaving all of the posts, files, and photos up on this website. I have no doubt that I'll be searching them
72
Russ
WD5RS
|
3952|3952|2010-05-01 09:33:55|Jim Kortge|Re: [QRP-L] 2n2/40 by k8iqy|Lorne Barber wrote:
> I have recently completed a scratch version of the 2n2/40. This has been a
> most enjoyable experience.
That's nice to hear Lorne. Did you build really build the 2N2/40 or a
later version, such as the 2N2/40+?
> However, I do have a few questions of those that may have built this rig.
I've built one or two of them...... :-)
> (1) I have an unbearable amount of thumping when I am monitoring my cw.
The original 2N2/40 audio mute wasn't all that great, but was as it
was because of contest design constraints. The later versions of the
rig replaced the diode switch/PN2222 driver combo with a J174 FET.
That circuitry is much better and much less "thumpy".
> (2) The cw "sidetone" is much too loud, even for my tired ears.
Make the parallel resistor across the mute switch larger. In the
original 2N2/40, this was resistor R31, at 47K. Going to 4.7 MEG ought
to be a whole lot better.
> Has any one else found this to be and what was done to remedy the situation?
See above......
> I have played with the value of R 31 and a 10 uf cap at the base of Q9 takes
> care of the thumping but it also increases the af sidetone level.
I'm not sure I understand what is going on there. Making R31 larger is
the right way to get the sidetone audio level down.
> I suppose the easy solution would be to use a seperate monitor and
> sompletely cut off the rx when transmitting.
That's what is supposed to happen within the design, within what can
be accomplished with all PN2222 transistors. The later versions of the
rig started using FETs where needed to improve the audio muting and
front-end muting was improved with better designs.
> Also how much feq swing can I expect with the RIT?
About 2 to 2.5 KHz either side of the center detent.
> Observations and suggestions please.
See above.......
72 and thanks for building the rig,
Jim, K8IQY
PS...some more documentation of later 2N2/40 designs on my k8iqy.com
web site.
Hi guys,
I have a plan to make a 6m transverter of 2N2/6.
Has anyone experienced its performance?
I know the schematics and think its sensitivity is not enough
and its PA seems to class-C.
I'd like to connect 2N2/6 with a softrock SDR transceiver.
So I should add the RF Amplifier into a RX front end and Calss-AB
modification into a Power stage?
Any suggestions welcome.
ja9mat Hidehiko.
|
3954|3953|2010-10-03 10:58:31|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2/6 Transverter|On 10/1/2010 10:20 PM, Hide wrote:
> Hi guys,
Hello Hide,
>
> I have a plan to make a 6m transverter of 2N2/6.
> Has anyone experienced its performance?
I have! :-) It is OK as designed, but could be improved a lot by
using transistors other than PN2222 devices. My first choice would
probably be BF199 devices.
> I know the schematics and think its sensitivity is not enough
Marginal as designed. It could be improved with a BF199 or PN5179 for
the the RF Amplifier. I'd probably also change the configuration to a
Norton Noiseless Amp or a grounded gate J310 configuration.
> and its PA seems to class-C.
It is as designed, since the transverter was designed to work with a
2N2/40 CW rig. Other output transistors need to be used to get a
reasonable amount of power out for linear operation. There in is the
problem, what transistors to use there. They should be a push-pull
arrangement I think also.
>
> I'd like to connect 2N2/6 with a softrock SDR transceiver.
> So I should add the RF Amplifier into a RX front end and Calss-AB
> modification into a Power stage?
Yes....
> Any suggestions welcome.
See above.
Good luck with the project and by all means, please keep us all
informed regarding your project build. I know I'm very interested.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
2N2/6 Designer
Hello dear Jim,
Thanks for your suggestions.
It's very useful information and I agree with your comment at all.
I would try and inform in this group when I will have a success.
BTW...
I've built the "MagicBox" and this is very useful QRP mate.
I use this for old homebrew tube rigs and tiny QRP TXs.
Thanks again.
ja9mat Hidehiko.
|
3956|3953|2010-10-04 16:27:23|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2/6 Transverter|On 10/4/2010 5:14 AM, Hide wrote:
> Hello dear Jim,
Greetings Dear Hide,
>
> Thanks for your suggestions.
Well I hope they turn out to be helpful.
> It's very useful information and I agree with your comment at all.
> I would try and inform in this group when I will have a success.
That would be very nice to have your information on the 2N2/6 building
and testing.
>
> BTW...
>
> I've built the "MagicBox" and this is very useful QRP mate.
Yes, I knew that you had built one; saw the photos on the MagicBox web
pages. Very nice construction and packaging. I'm glad that the
MagicBox is working well for you. That was such a fun project. I wish
I had done it several years earlier.
> I use this for old homebrew tube rigs and tiny QRP TXs.
I had not been able to test it with tube rigs, so am really happy to
hear that it works with them. I was sure it would, but don't have a
tube transmitter to test with.
> Thanks again.
Thank you dear Hide and 72,
Jim, K8IQY
I was wondering if anyone has used the pad location file which is in the "file" section of this group but enlarged it on a photocopy machine. My thinking is it would be easier on the eyes to build the 2n2, Manhattan style on larger ground plane. I was thininking of an increase of maybe 1.5 times that which is on the pad location file. What do you think?
Tnx
Tom WB2QDG
|
3958|3957|2011-04-23 13:47:59|Jim Kortge|Re: Pad template|On 4/22/2011 10:09 PM, redmen1969 wrote:
> I was wondering if anyone has used the pad location file which is in the "file" section of this group but enlarged it on a photocopy machine. My thinking is it would be easier on the eyes to build the 2n2, Manhattan style on larger ground plane. I was thininking of an increase of maybe 1.5 times that which is on the pad location file. What do you think?
>
> Tnx
> Tom WB2QDG
>
>
Tom,
It should work just fine enlarging the substrate. WJ2V's rig was
about 9" X 12" in size and worked just fine.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
I can second that. I worked Pres's rig with my 2N2/40 and it absolutely worked! (Hi Jim!)
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- On Sat, 4/23/11, Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Pad template
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Cc: "redmen1969" <redmen1969@yahoo.com>
Date: Saturday, April 23, 2011, 1:47 PM
On 4/22/2011 10:09 PM, redmen1969 wrote:
> I was wondering if anyone has used the pad location file which is in the "file" section of this group but enlarged it on a photocopy machine. My thinking is it would be easier on the eyes to build the 2n2, Manhattan style on larger ground plane. I was thininking of an increase of maybe 1.5 times that which is on the pad location file. What do you think?
>
> Tnx
> Tom WB2QDG
>
>
Tom,
It should work just fine enlarging the substrate. WJ2V's rig was
about 9" X 12" in size and worked just fine.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On 4/23/2011 6:45 PM, Howard Kraus wrote:
> I can second that. I worked Pres's rig with my 2N2/40 and it absolutely worked!Â
Indeed. I've heard it work also.
(Hi Jim!)
Hi Howard. Long time no yak! Hope to see you at FDIM in May. I'll
be there with the new SS-40 receiver being kitted by 4 State QRP.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Does anyone know where to get the 1200-8ct transformer called out in the schematics?
|
3962|3961|2011-05-25 06:21:08|kcia1124|Re: Audio Transformer|I think I used a Mouser 42km003.
Kenyon Cox
WD8INS
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "eugene.sherrell" wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where to get the 1200-8ct transformer called out in the schematics?
>
Mouser Electronics.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- On Tue, 5/24/11, eugene.sherrell <gsherrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
From: eugene.sherrell <gsherrell@earthlink.net>
Subject: [2n2-40] Audio Transformer
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, May 24, 2011, 10:24 PM
Does anyone know where to get the 1200-8ct transformer called out in the schematics?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm usuing a parts list that references Mouser numbers to all of the parts, if you'd like I can try to send you a copy.
Also, one of the guys set up a Mouser "project" with most of the parts.
How is your build comimg?
Tom
WB2QDG
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Howard Kraus wrote:
>
> Mouser Electronics.
>
> 72
>
> Howard Kraus, K2UD
>
> --- On Tue, 5/24/11, eugene.sherrell wrote:
>
> From: eugene.sherrell
> Subject: [2n2-40] Audio Transformer
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, May 24, 2011, 10:24 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Â
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Does anyone know where to get the 1200-8ct transformer called out in the schematics?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
I'm just geting things set up. I hope to actually start the soldering in
another two weeks. I noticed that one of the fellows found a radio shack
part (1000-8) seems like this should be close enough. Mouser online
indicates this is a no stock item and they have none in inventory.
Thanks,
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "redmen1969" <redmen1969@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2011 6:13 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Audio Transformer
I'm usuing a parts list that references Mouser numbers to all of the parts,
if you'd like I can try to send you a copy.
Also, one of the guys set up a Mouser "project" with most of the parts.
How is your build comimg?
Tom
WB2QDG
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Howard Kraus wrote:
>
> Mouser Electronics.
>
> 72
>
> Howard Kraus, K2UD
>
> --- On Tue, 5/24/11, eugene.sherrell wrote:
>
> From: eugene.sherrell
> Subject: [2n2-40] Audio Transformer
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, May 24, 2011, 10:24 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Â
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Does anyone know where to get the 1200-8ct transformer called out in
> the schematics?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
Dear Sir: Gene passed away May 2 in our home. If you have a link to the other builders that keep sending emails please let them know. Diane
From: Gene
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2011 12:02 AM
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Audio Transformer
I'm just geting things set up. I hope to actually start the soldering in
another two weeks. I noticed that one of the fellows found a radio shack
part (1000-8) seems like this should be close enough. Mouser online
indicates this is a no stock item and they have none in inventory.
Thanks,
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "redmen1969" <redmen1969@yahoo.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2011 6:13 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Audio Transformer
I'm usuing a parts list that references Mouser numbers to all of the parts,
if you'd like I can try to send you a copy.
Also, one of the guys set up a Mouser "project" with most of the parts.
How is your build comimg?
Tom
WB2QDG
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Howard Kraus wrote:
>
> Mouser Electronics.
>
> 72
>
> Howard Kraus, K2UD
>
> --- On Tue, 5/24/11, eugene.sherrell wrote:
>
> From: eugene.sherrell
> Subject: [2n2-40] Audio Transformer
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, May 24, 2011, 10:24 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Â
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Does anyone know where to get the 1200-8ct transformer called out in
> the schematics?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
How can this possibly be? Diane states Gene passed away on May 2, yet
here we have a message from Gene dated Friday, May 27!!!!
Someone is playing us!
Larry N8MGU
On 05/27/2011 09:30 AM, Gene wrote:
>
>
> Dear Sir: Gene passed away May 2 in our home. If you have a link to the
> other builders that keep sending emails please let them know. Diane
>
> From: Gene
> Sent: Friday, May 27, 2011 12:02 AM
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] Re: Audio Transformer
>
> I'm just geting things set up. I hope to actually start the soldering in
> another two weeks. I noticed that one of the fellows found a radio shack
> part (1000-8) seems like this should be close enough. Mouser online
> indicates this is a no stock item and they have none in inventory.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gene
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "redmen1969" <redmen1969@yahoo.com >
> To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com >
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2011 6:13 PM
> Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Audio Transformer
>
> I'm usuing a parts list that references Mouser numbers to all of the parts,
> if you'd like I can try to send you a copy.
>
> Also, one of the guys set up a Mouser "project" with most of the parts.
>
> How is your build comimg?
> Tom
> WB2QDG
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com , Howard
> Kraus wrote:
>>
>> Mouser Electronics.
>>
>> 72
>>
>> Howard Kraus, K2UD
>>
>> --- On Tue, 5/24/11, eugene.sherrell wrote:
>>
>> From: eugene.sherrell
>> Subject: [2n2-40] Audio Transformer
>> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>> Date: Tuesday, May 24, 2011, 10:24 PM
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Â
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone know where to get the 1200-8ct transformer called out in
>> the schematics?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
--
GnuPG Public Key ID: 388ECCBE
================================================
Never cross a Dragon, for you are crunchy and taste delicious!
My Interests are:
Ham Radio (N8MGU) | Opera | Theater | Sailing | Judaica | CKCS
On 5/27/2011 1:02 AM, Gene wrote:
> I'm just geting things set up. I hope to actually start the soldering in
> another two weeks. I noticed that one of the fellows found a radio shack
> part (1000-8) seems like this should be close enough. Mouser online
> indicates this is a no stock item and they have none in inventory.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gene
Gene,
The Radio Shack part will work fine. Others have used it with good
success.
72 and happy building,
Jim, K8IQY
Didn't know Gene, but seems to be true. Look about 2/3 of the way down in the link below. Th email could be an old message, sent after a server was restored from old tapes.
http://ksarrl.org/kar/May_11_%20KAR.pdfIm a different Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris" <ccart@phideaux.com>
To: <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2011 7:02 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] N0MQ SK
> Didn't know Gene, but seems to be true. Look about 2/3 of the way down in
> the link below. Th email could be an old message, sent after a server was
> restored from old tapes.
>
> http://ksarrl.org/kar/May_11_%20KAR.pdf
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
On 5/29/2011 1:10 AM, Gene wrote:
> Im a different Gene
Yup, and I've got the other Gene, N0MQ who passed away unsubscribed
from the 2n2-40 list as of a few days ago.
72 and thanks all,
Jim, K8IQY
2n2-40 owner
Greetings Gents
4 computers later, and several projects later
I was looking over my horde of goodies and
see my 2N2222 project about 5-7% done : (
Shame on me. I've saved a lot of parts for
this in the surface mounted version too, but
my sight is a little weaker so that one just
might never come to fruition. BUT, seeing
these posts the last week or so, and finding
my started project kinda gave me some
guilty twangs : )
I belonged to 67 (no that's not a fib) Yahoo
groups, now I quit most, I think 20 now yet, and
maybe will drop a couple more, so I can play
Amateur Radio again, instead of 40/11 projects
and diverse interests. Spent a couple days now
trying to set up a good mobile station, and while
I personally like the straight key, am going to try
to get used to a bencher. They said no cell
phones right, how about a key : ) : )
Anyways, the soldering iron has been put away
so long I bought one of those soldering stations,
Used VIA one of the Yahoo groups : ) Sure am glad
many of you are still hanging around. As While I did
buy the book, and downloaded a bunch of info,
dummy me might need an Elmer once in a while.
I even bought a signal generator and O'scope to
learn how to use, so will look forward to a few
interesting evenings.
Thanks too Jim !!! : )
Anyone have a rough count as to how many of these
rigs made it to be on the air, or how many are still on
the bench???
73 72
Bill KE9XQ
If the grass is greener on the
other side of the fence, then
maybe you ain't watering
your own lawn...
Favorite Yahoo Groups...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OTR_and_Music/ http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Radio_Library/ And check out Tennessee Bill's site at:
http://otrshareandtrade.com/in.php?ID=12 and his personal site at:
http://TennesseeBillsOTR.com Don't forget
http://www.archive.org/index.php and one or two that maybe don't
want to be listed : )
And two dozen or more others
I won't tell you about unless you ask.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I think I have you beat. I started the first section of mine & it sat on the bench for 7 years without moving forward. Have all the parts & slowly gaining some free time to work on it again. 73 KA6WKE
Sent from my secret decoder ring.
On May 30, 2011, at 8:26 AM, William Wood <ke9xq@charter.net> wrote:
> Greetings Gents
> 4 computers later, and several projects later
> I was looking over my horde of goodies and
> see my 2N2222 project about 5-7% done : (
> Shame on me. I've saved a lot of parts for
> this in the surface mounted version too, but
> my sight is a little weaker so that one just
> might never come to fruition. BUT, seeing
> these posts the last week or so, and finding
> my started project kinda gave me some
> guilty twangs : )
> I belonged to 67 (no that's not a fib) Yahoo
> groups, now I quit most, I think 20 now yet, and
> maybe will drop a couple more, so I can play
> Amateur Radio again, instead of 40/11 projects
> and diverse interests. Spent a couple days now
> trying to set up a good mobile station, and while
> I personally like the straight key, am going to try
> to get used to a bencher. They said no cell
> phones right, how about a key : ) : )
> Anyways, the soldering iron has been put away
> so long I bought one of those soldering stations,
> Used VIA one of the Yahoo groups : ) Sure am glad
> many of you are still hanging around. As While I did
> buy the book, and downloaded a bunch of info,
> dummy me might need an Elmer once in a while.
> I even bought a signal generator and O'scope to
> learn how to use, so will look forward to a few
> interesting evenings.
> Thanks too Jim !!! : )
> Anyone have a rough count as to how many of these
> rigs made it to be on the air, or how many are still on
> the bench???
> 73 72
> Bill KE9XQ
>
>
>
> If the grass is greener on the
> other side of the fence, then
> maybe you ain't watering
> your own lawn...
>
> Favorite Yahoo Groups...
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OTR_and_Music/
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Radio_Library/
>
> And check out Tennessee Bill's site at:
>
> http://otrshareandtrade.com/in.php?ID=12
> and his personal site at:
>
> http://TennesseeBillsOTR.com
>
> Don't forget
>
> http://www.archive.org/index.php
>
> and one or two that maybe don't
> want to be listed : )
> And two dozen or more others
> I won't tell you about unless you ask.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Thanks for that post
Wonder if you or I can light a fire under our chairs???
73 72
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Schoonover KA6WKE <
ka6wke@gmail.com>
To: 2n2-40 <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: 2n2-40 <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Mon, May 30, 2011 11:50 am
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] King of Procrastinators Well maybe : )
I think I have you beat. I started the first section of mine & it sat on the bench for 7 years without moving forward. Have all the parts & slowly gaining some free time to work on it again. 73 KA6WKE
Sent from my secret decoder ring.
On May 30, 2011, at 8:26 AM, William Wood <ke9xq@charter.net> wrote:
> Greetings Gents
> 4 computers later, and several projects later
> I was looking over my horde of goodies and
> see my 2N2222 project about 5-7% done : (
> Shame on me. I've saved a lot of parts for
> this in the surface mounted version too, but
> my sight is a little weaker so that one just
> might never come to fruition. BUT, seeing
> these posts the last week or so, and finding
> my started project kinda gave me some
> guilty twangs : )
> I belonged to 67 (no that's not a fib) Yahoo
> groups, now I quit most, I think 20 now yet, and
> maybe will drop a couple more, so I can play
> Amateur Radio again, instead of 40/11 projects
> and diverse interests. Spent a couple days now
> trying to set up a good mobile station, and while
> I personally like the straight key, am going to try
> to get used to a bencher. They said no cell
> phones right, how about a key : ) : )
> Anyways, the soldering iron has been put away
> so long I bought one of those soldering stations,
> Used VIA one of the Yahoo groups : ) Sure am glad
> many of you are still hanging around. As While I did
> buy the book, and downloaded a bunch of info,
> dummy me might need an Elmer once in a while.
> I even bought a signal generator and O'scope to
> learn how to use, so will look forward to a few
> interesting evenings.
> Thanks too Jim !!! : )
> Anyone have a rough count as to how many of these
> rigs made it to be on the air, or how many are still on
> the bench???
> 73 72
> Bill KE9XQ
>
>
>
> If the grass is greener on the
> other side of the fence, then
> maybe you ain't watering
> your own lawn...
>
> Favorite Yahoo Groups...
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OTR_and_Music/
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Radio_Library/
>
> And check out Tennessee Bill's site at:
>
> http://otrshareandtrade.com/in.php?ID=12
> and his personal site at:
>
> http://TennesseeBillsOTR.com
>
> Don't forget
>
> http://www.archive.org/index.php
>
> and one or two that maybe don't
> want to be listed : )
> And two dozen or more others
> I won't tell you about unless you ask.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I spent six years in TX with bags of projects in the garage and radio room. Some lacked a single part and others contained on half the parts. In the interim, I put up a repeater and maintained it for three years, built an HW-8 for my son to get into ham radio (N5DIM) and only really regretted the unfinished projects when I had to move.
I think that most of us procrastinators can remember "borrowing" a part here and there form another dedicated project bag or box so it was not all that big a loss, in the long run. Meanwhile, we can all admit, I believe, that the time we put into thinking about the project that never got finished made us better technologist in our hobby. There are many in ham radio today that have never achieved the level of a procrastinator...
.
Robert "Bob" Lunsford
Salyersville KY 41465-0606
Amateur Station KK5R
.
WHAT "CHANGE" WERE YOU HOPING FOR???
.
--- On Tue, 5/31/11, ke9xq@aol.com <ke9xq@aol.com> wrote:
From: ke9xq@aol.com <ke9xq@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] King of Procrastinators Well maybe : )
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, May 31, 2011, 5:24 AM
Thanks for that post
Wonder if you or I can light a fire under our chairs???
73 72
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Schoonover KA6WKE <ka6wke@gmail.com>
To: 2n2-40 <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: 2n2-40 <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Mon, May 30, 2011 11:50 am
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] King of Procrastinators Well maybe : )
I think I have you beat. I started the first section of mine & it sat on the bench for 7 years without moving forward. Have all the parts & slowly gaining some free time to work on it again. 73 KA6WKE
Sent from my secret decoder ring.
On May 30, 2011, at 8:26 AM, William Wood <ke9xq@charter.net> wrote:
> Greetings Gents
> 4 computers later, and several projects later
> I was looking over my horde of goodies and
> see my 2N2222 project about 5-7% done : (
> Shame on me. I've saved a lot of parts for
> this in the surface mounted version too, but
> my sight is a little weaker so that one just
> might never come to fruition. BUT, seeing
> these posts the last week or so, and finding
> my started project kinda gave me some
> guilty twangs : )
> I belonged to 67 (no that's not a fib) Yahoo
> groups, now I quit most, I think 20 now yet, and
> maybe will drop a couple more, so I can play
> Amateur Radio again, instead of 40/11 projects
> and diverse interests. Spent a couple days now
> trying to set up a good mobile station, and while
> I personally like the straight key, am going to try
> to get used to a bencher. They said no cell
> phones right, how about a key : ) : )
> Anyways, the soldering iron has been put away
> so long I bought one of those soldering stations,
> Used VIA one of the Yahoo groups : ) Sure am glad
> many of you are still hanging around. As While I did
> buy the book, and downloaded a bunch of info,
> dummy me might need an Elmer once in a while.
> I even bought a signal generator and O'scope to
> learn how to use, so will look forward to a few
> interesting evenings.
> Thanks too Jim !!! : )
> Anyone have a rough count as to how many of these
> rigs made it to be on the air, or how many are still on
> the bench???
> 73 72
> Bill KE9XQ
>
>
>
> If the grass is greener on the
> other side of the fence, then
> maybe you ain't watering
> your own lawn...
>
> Favorite Yahoo Groups...
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OTR_and_Music/
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Radio_Library/
>
> And check out Tennessee Bill's site at:
>
> http://otrshareandtrade.com/in.php?ID=12
> and his personal site at:
>
> http://TennesseeBillsOTR.com
>
> Don't forget
>
> http://www.archive.org/index.php
>
> and one or two that maybe don't
> want to be listed : )
> And two dozen or more others
> I won't tell you about unless you ask.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On 5/30/2011 5:24 PM,
ke9xq@aol.com wrote:
>
> Thanks for that post
> Wonder if you or I can light a fire under our chairs???
> 73 72
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Schoonover KA6WKE<ka6wke@gmail.com>
> To: 2n2-40<2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Cc: 2n2-40<2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Mon, May 30, 2011 11:50 am
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] King of Procrastinators Well maybe : )
>
>
>
>
> I think I have you beat. I started the first section of mine& it sat on the bench for 7 years without moving forward. Have all the parts& slowly gaining some free time to work on it again. 73 KA6WKE
>
> Sent from my secret decoder ring.
>
> On May 30, 2011, at 8:26 AM, William Wood<ke9xq@charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Greetings Gents
>> 4 computers later, and several projects later
>> I was looking over my horde of goodies and
>> see my 2N2222 project about 5-7% done : (
>> Shame on me. I've saved a lot of parts for
>> this in the surface mounted version too, but
>> my sight is a little weaker so that one just
>> might never come to fruition. BUT, seeing
>> these posts the last week or so, and finding
>> my started project kinda gave me some
>> guilty twangs : )
>> I belonged to 67 (no that's not a fib) Yahoo
>> groups, now I quit most, I think 20 now yet, and
>> maybe will drop a couple more, so I can play
>> Amateur Radio again, instead of 40/11 projects
>> and diverse interests. Spent a couple days now
>> trying to set up a good mobile station, and while
>> I personally like the straight key, am going to try
>> to get used to a bencher. They said no cell
>> phones right, how about a key : ) : )
>> Anyways, the soldering iron has been put away
>> so long I bought one of those soldering stations,
>> Used VIA one of the Yahoo groups : ) Sure am glad
>> many of you are still hanging around. As While I did
>> buy the book, and downloaded a bunch of info,
>> dummy me might need an Elmer once in a while.
>> I even bought a signal generator and O'scope to
>> learn how to use, so will look forward to a few
>> interesting evenings.
>> Thanks too Jim !!! : )
>> Anyone have a rough count as to how many of these
>> rigs made it to be on the air, or how many are still on
>> the bench???
>> 73 72
>> Bill KE9XQ
>>
Hi all,
Do you need anything from me to re-ignite those 2n2-40 projects?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Does anyone provide a kit of parts for building the 2n2-40? This would be a great way to get more people involved in QRP and this part of the ham radio hobby. It would also guarantee that the 2n2-40 will never die as long as there is ham radio.
.
Robert "Bob" Lunsford
Salyersville KY 41465-0606
Amateur Station KK5R
.
WHAT "CHANGE" WERE YOU HOPING FOR???
.
--- On Wed, 6/1/11, Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] King of Procrastinators Well maybe : )
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, June 1, 2011, 11:51 PM
On 5/30/2011 5:24 PM, ke9xq@aol.com wrote:
>
> Thanks for that post
> Wonder if you or I can light a fire under our chairs???
> 73 72
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Schoonover KA6WKE<ka6wke@gmail.com>
> To: 2n2-40<2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Cc: 2n2-40<2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Mon, May 30, 2011 11:50 am
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] King of Procrastinators Well maybe : )
>
>
>
>
> I think I have you beat. I started the first section of mine& it sat on the bench for 7 years without moving forward. Have all the parts& slowly gaining some free time to work on it again. 73 KA6WKE
>
> Sent from my secret decoder ring.
>
> On May 30, 2011, at 8:26 AM, William Wood<ke9xq@charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Greetings Gents
>> 4 computers later, and several projects later
>> I was looking over my horde of goodies and
>> see my 2N2222 project about 5-7% done : (
>> Shame on me. I've saved a lot of parts for
>> this in the surface mounted version too, but
>> my sight is a little weaker so that one just
>> might never come to fruition. BUT, seeing
>> these posts the last week or so, and finding
>> my started project kinda gave me some
>> guilty twangs : )
>> I belonged to 67 (no that's not a fib) Yahoo
>> groups, now I quit most, I think 20 now yet, and
>> maybe will drop a couple more, so I can play
>> Amateur Radio again, instead of 40/11 projects
>> and diverse interests. Spent a couple days now
>> trying to set up a good mobile station, and while
>> I personally like the straight key, am going to try
>> to get used to a bencher. They said no cell
>> phones right, how about a key : ) : )
>> Anyways, the soldering iron has been put away
>> so long I bought one of those soldering stations,
>> Used VIA one of the Yahoo groups : ) Sure am glad
>> many of you are still hanging around. As While I did
>> buy the book, and downloaded a bunch of info,
>> dummy me might need an Elmer once in a while.
>> I even bought a signal generator and O'scope to
>> learn how to use, so will look forward to a few
>> interesting evenings.
>> Thanks too Jim !!! : )
>> Anyone have a rough count as to how many of these
>> rigs made it to be on the air, or how many are still on
>> the bench???
>> 73 72
>> Bill KE9XQ
>>
Hi all,
Do you need anything from me to re-ignite those 2n2-40 projects?
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On 6/2/2011 12:21 AM, Bob Lunsford wrote:
> Does anyone provide a kit of parts for building the 2n2-40?
Dan's Small Parts used to see a kit of parts but they were not very
good. I'm not sure that I've ever heard of anyone using that parts
set to build a functioning radio.
This would be a great way to get more people involved in QRP and
this part of the ham radio hobby.
We did several group buys back several years ago when the 2N2-40 and
2N2-40+ designs were new, but very few rigs got built back then. I
know I did over 300 crystal sets and most of those are on someones
shelf unused.
It would also guarantee that the 2n2-40 will never die as long as
there is ham radio.
I don't know about that. Those who are really motivated to build a
rig will find the parts and build it. Just my thoughts.....
> .
>
> Robert "Bob" Lunsford
>
> Salyersville KY 41465-0606
>
> Amateur Station KK5R
>
72,
Jim, K8IQY
On 6/2/2011 12:21 AM, Bob Lunsford wrote:
> Does anyone provide a kit of parts for building the 2n2-40?
Dan's Small Parts used to see a kit of parts but they were not very
good. I'm not sure that I've ever heard of anyone using that parts
set to build a functioning radio.
This would be a great way to get more people involved in QRP and
this part of the ham radio hobby.
We did several group buys back several years ago when the 2N2-40 and
2N2-40+ designs were new, but very few rigs got built back then. I
know I did over 300 crystal sets and most of those are on someones
shelf unused.
It would also guarantee that the 2n2-40 will never die as long as
there is ham radio.
I don't know about that. Those who are really motivated to build a
rig will find the parts and build it. Just my thoughts.....
> .
>
> Robert "Bob" Lunsford
>
> Salyersville KY 41465-0606
>
> Amateur Station KK5R
>
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I'm getting close to submitting a parts order to Mouser for a 2n2-40. It only includes the parts I need, of course, but if anyone thinks this may be helpful I'd be glad to share it.
BTW, I found the 1200CT-8 turn transformer in stock at Mouser listed as their part number 42TL003-RC at a cost of $1.94.
The total order seems to be about $90 or so. I did not need any resistors and most notably I had a 19 turn pot in the junk box so that was big savings. A few of the IC's I'll have to get from Dan's and I seem to have all of toroids (but Dan's has them as well).
If anyone would like to use my Mouser list as a jumping off point, let me know and I'll get to you (I want to give it a last look over though).
Looking forward to this as I too have procrastinated on this for way too long! Hi.
73 de
Tom
WB2QDG
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Bob Lunsford wrote:
>
> Does anyone provide a kit of parts for building the 2n2-40? This would be a great way to get more people involved in QRP and this part of the ham radio hobby. It would also guarantee that the 2n2-40 will never die as long as there is ham radio.
>
> .
>
> Robert "Bob" Lunsford
>
> Salyersville KY 41465-0606
>
> Amateur Station KK5R
>
> .
>
> WHAT "CHANGE" WERE YOU HOPING FOR???
>
> .
>
> --- On Wed, 6/1/11, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> From: Jim Kortge
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] King of Procrastinators Well maybe : )
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, June 1, 2011, 11:51 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Â
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 5/30/2011 5:24 PM, ke9xq@... wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Thanks for that post
>
> > Wonder if you or I can light a fire under our chairs???
>
> > 73 72
>
> > Bill
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> > From: Mark Schoonover KA6WKE
>
> > To: 2n2-40<2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>
> > Cc: 2n2-40<2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>
> > Sent: Mon, May 30, 2011 11:50 am
>
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] King of Procrastinators Well maybe : )
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > I think I have you beat. I started the first section of mine& it sat on the bench for 7 years without moving forward. Have all the parts& slowly gaining some free time to work on it again. 73 KA6WKE
>
> >
>
> > Sent from my secret decoder ring.
>
> >
>
> > On May 30, 2011, at 8:26 AM, William Wood wrote:
>
> >
>
> >> Greetings Gents
>
> >> 4 computers later, and several projects later
>
> >> I was looking over my horde of goodies and
>
> >> see my 2N2222 project about 5-7% done : (
>
> >> Shame on me. I've saved a lot of parts for
>
> >> this in the surface mounted version too, but
>
> >> my sight is a little weaker so that one just
>
> >> might never come to fruition. BUT, seeing
>
> >> these posts the last week or so, and finding
>
> >> my started project kinda gave me some
>
> >> guilty twangs : )
>
> >> I belonged to 67 (no that's not a fib) Yahoo
>
> >> groups, now I quit most, I think 20 now yet, and
>
> >> maybe will drop a couple more, so I can play
>
> >> Amateur Radio again, instead of 40/11 projects
>
> >> and diverse interests. Spent a couple days now
>
> >> trying to set up a good mobile station, and while
>
> >> I personally like the straight key, am going to try
>
> >> to get used to a bencher. They said no cell
>
> >> phones right, how about a key : ) : )
>
> >> Anyways, the soldering iron has been put away
>
> >> so long I bought one of those soldering stations,
>
> >> Used VIA one of the Yahoo groups : ) Sure am glad
>
> >> many of you are still hanging around. As While I did
>
> >> buy the book, and downloaded a bunch of info,
>
> >> dummy me might need an Elmer once in a while.
>
> >> I even bought a signal generator and O'scope to
>
> >> learn how to use, so will look forward to a few
>
> >> interesting evenings.
>
> >> Thanks too Jim !!! : )
>
> >> Anyone have a rough count as to how many of these
>
> >> rigs made it to be on the air, or how many are still on
>
> >> the bench???
>
> >> 73 72
>
> >> Bill KE9XQ
>
> >>
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> Do you need anything from me to re-ignite those 2n2-40 projects?
>
>
>
> 72,
>
>
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
You are about to embark on a wonderful journey. Building my 2N240 from
scratch was probably the high light of my 50 years as a radio amateur.
Good luck, and I know that Jim Kortege will ensure your success.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Romney, WV
On 6/2/2011 10:15 PM, redmen1969 wrote:
> I'm getting close to submitting a parts order to Mouser for a 2n2-40. It only includes the parts I need, of course, but if anyone thinks this may be helpful I'd be glad to share it.
>
> BTW, I found the 1200CT-8 turn transformer in stock at Mouser listed as their part number 42TL003-RC at a cost of $1.94.
>
> The total order seems to be about $90 or so. I did not need any resistors and most notably I had a 19 turn pot in the junk box so that was big savings. A few of the IC's I'll have to get from Dan's and I seem to have all of toroids (but Dan's has them as well).
>
> If anyone would like to use my Mouser list as a jumping off point, let me know and I'll get to you (I want to give it a last look over though).
>
> Looking forward to this as I too have procrastinated on this for way too long! Hi.
>
> 73 de
> Tom
> WB2QDG
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Bob Lunsford wrote:
>> Does anyone provide a kit of parts for building the 2n2-40? This would be a great way to get more people involved in QRP and this part of the ham radio hobby. It would also guarantee that the 2n2-40 will never die as long as there is ham radio.
>>
>> .
>>
>> Robert "Bob" Lunsford
>>
>> Salyersville KY 41465-0606
>>
>> Amateur Station KK5R
>>
>> .
>>
>> WHAT "CHANGE" WERE YOU HOPING FOR???
>>
>> .
>>
>> --- On Wed, 6/1/11, Jim Kortge wrote:
>>
>> From: Jim Kortge
>> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] King of Procrastinators Well maybe : )
>> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
>> Date: Wednesday, June 1, 2011, 11:51 PM
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Â
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 5/30/2011 5:24 PM, ke9xq@... wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for that post
>>> Wonder if you or I can light a fire under our chairs???
>>> 73 72
>>> Bill
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Mark Schoonover KA6WKE
>>> To: 2n2-40<2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Cc: 2n2-40<2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Sent: Mon, May 30, 2011 11:50 am
>>> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] King of Procrastinators Well maybe : )
>>> I think I have you beat. I started the first section of mine& it sat on the bench for 7 years without moving forward. Have all the parts& slowly gaining some free time to work on it again. 73 KA6WKE
>>> Sent from my secret decoder ring.
>>> On May 30, 2011, at 8:26 AM, William Wood wrote:
>>>> Greetings Gents
>>>> 4 computers later, and several projects later
>>>> I was looking over my horde of goodies and
>>>> see my 2N2222 project about 5-7% done : (
>>>> Shame on me. I've saved a lot of parts for
>>>> this in the surface mounted version too, but
>>>> my sight is a little weaker so that one just
>>>> might never come to fruition. BUT, seeing
>>>> these posts the last week or so, and finding
>>>> my started project kinda gave me some
>>>> guilty twangs : )
>>>> I belonged to 67 (no that's not a fib) Yahoo
>>>> groups, now I quit most, I think 20 now yet, and
>>>> maybe will drop a couple more, so I can play
>>>> Amateur Radio again, instead of 40/11 projects
>>>> and diverse interests. Spent a couple days now
>>>> trying to set up a good mobile station, and while
>>>> I personally like the straight key, am going to try
>>>> to get used to a bencher. They said no cell
>>>> phones right, how about a key : ) : )
>>>> Anyways, the soldering iron has been put away
>>>> so long I bought one of those soldering stations,
>>>> Used VIA one of the Yahoo groups : ) Sure am glad
>>>> many of you are still hanging around. As While I did
>>>> buy the book, and downloaded a bunch of info,
>>>> dummy me might need an Elmer once in a while.
>>>> I even bought a signal generator and O'scope to
>>>> learn how to use, so will look forward to a few
>>>> interesting evenings.
>>>> Thanks too Jim !!! : )
>>>> Anyone have a rough count as to how many of these
>>>> rigs made it to be on the air, or how many are still on
>>>> the bench???
>>>> 73 72
>>>> Bill KE9XQ
>>
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>>
>>
>> Do you need anything from me to re-ignite those 2n2-40 projects?
>>
>>
>>
>> 72,
>>
>>
>>
>> Jim, K8IQY
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
On 6/2/2011 10:15 PM, redmen1969 wrote:
> I'm getting close to submitting a parts order to Mouser for a 2n2-40. It only includes the parts I need, of course, but if anyone thinks this may be helpful I'd be glad to share it.
>
> BTW, I found the 1200CT-8 turn transformer in stock at Mouser listed as their part number 42TL003-RC at a cost of $1.94.
You can also use any of the lower impedance versions, down to about
500 Ohms to get more power out of the audio amplifier.
>
> The total order seems to be about $90 or so. I did not need any resistors and most notably I had a 19 turn pot in the junk box so that was big savings. A few of the IC's
What IC's? The 2N2-40 and 2N2-40+ transceivers are all discrete
component designs.
I'll have to get from Dan's and I seem to have all of toroids (but
Dan's has them as well).
As does Diz at Kits and Parts, probably at a better price.
>
> If anyone would like to use my Mouser list as a jumping off point, let me know and I'll get to you (I want to give it a last look over though).
>
> Looking forward to this as I too have procrastinated on this for way too long! Hi.
>
> 73 de
> Tom
> WB2QDG
Good luck building Tom. Hope to work your new rig on the air sometime.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
BTW, I'd suggest building the 2N2-40+ version of the rig. It is a
more refined and better performing rig.
Hi Tom
I don't remember the ICs, Didn't think there were any???
and was just wondering about the price of that order Tom,
was it those crystals that jacked the price up so high?
While I should have all the parts, wonder if you could share
that order list with me. I'd like to compare it with what I have.
I still have not found my book, or the disk I burned from Jim's
archive. Should be here somewheres. I have a VERY hard
time throwing anything : ) : ) : )
Glad you are doing this : )
73 72
Bill KE9XQ
If the grass is greener on the
other side of the fence, then
maybe you ain't watering
your own lawn...
Favorite Yahoo Groups...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OTR_and_Music/ http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Radio_Library/ And check out Tennessee Bill's site at:
http://otrshareandtrade.com/in.php?ID=12 and his personal site at:
http://TennesseeBillsOTR.com Don't forget
http://www.archive.org/index.php and one or two that maybe don't
want to be listed : )
And two dozen or more others
I won't tell you about unless you ask.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Would be great if you can shoot it over, THANKS
73! Steve Goodman, W4UCA
Steve@w4uca.com or
w4_uca@yahoo.com Hm: 901.345.9849 Cell: 901.859.7655
--- On Thu, 6/2/11, redmen1969 <redmen1969@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: redmen1969 <redmen1969@yahoo.com>
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: King of Procrastinators Well maybe : )
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, June 2, 2011, 9:15 PM
I'm getting close to submitting a parts order to Mouser for a 2n2-40. It only includes the parts I need, of course, but if anyone thinks this may be helpful I'd be glad to share it.
BTW, I found the 1200CT-8 turn transformer in stock at Mouser listed as their part number 42TL003-RC at a cost of $1.94.
The total order seems to be about $90 or so. I did not need any resistors and most notably I had a 19 turn pot in the junk box so that was big savings. A few of the IC's I'll have to get from Dan's and I seem to have all of toroids (but Dan's has them as well).
If anyone would like to use my Mouser list as a jumping off point, let me know and I'll get to you (I want to give it a last look over though).
Looking forward to this as I too have procrastinated on this for way too long! Hi.
73 de
Tom
WB2QDG
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Bob Lunsford wrote:
>
> Does anyone provide a kit of parts for building the 2n2-40? This would be a great way to get more people involved in QRP and this part of the ham radio hobby. It would also guarantee that the 2n2-40 will never die as long as there is ham radio.
>
> .
>
> Robert "Bob" Lunsford
>
> Salyersville KY 41465-0606
>
> Amateur Station KK5R
>
> .
>
> WHAT "CHANGE" WERE YOU HOPING FOR???
>
> .
>
> --- On Wed, 6/1/11, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> From: Jim Kortge
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] King of Procrastinators Well maybe : )
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, June 1, 2011, 11:51 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Â
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 5/30/2011 5:24 PM, ke9xq@... wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Thanks for that post
>
> > Wonder if you or I can light a fire under our chairs???
>
> > 73 72
>
> > Bill
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> > From: Mark Schoonover KA6WKE
>
> > To: 2n2-40<2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>
> > Cc: 2n2-40<2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
>
> > Sent: Mon, May 30, 2011 11:50 am
>
> > Subject: Re: [2n2-40] King of Procrastinators Well maybe : )
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > I think I have you beat. I started the first section of mine& it sat on the bench for 7 years without moving forward. Have all the parts& slowly gaining some free time to work on it again. 73 KA6WKE
>
> >
>
> > Sent from my secret decoder ring.
>
> >
>
> > On May 30, 2011, at 8:26 AM, William Wood wrote:
>
> >
>
> >> Greetings Gents
>
> >> 4 computers later, and several projects later
>
> >> I was looking over my horde of goodies and
>
> >> see my 2N2222 project about 5-7% done : (
>
> >> Shame on me. I've saved a lot of parts for
>
> >> this in the surface mounted version too, but
>
> >> my sight is a little weaker so that one just
>
> >> might never come to fruition. BUT, seeing
>
> >> these posts the last week or so, and finding
>
> >> my started project kinda gave me some
>
> >> guilty twangs : )
>
> >> I belonged to 67 (no that's not a fib) Yahoo
>
> >> groups, now I quit most, I think 20 now yet, and
>
> >> maybe will drop a couple more, so I can play
>
> >> Amateur Radio again, instead of 40/11 projects
>
> >> and diverse interests. Spent a couple days now
>
> >> trying to set up a good mobile station, and while
>
> >> I personally like the straight key, am going to try
>
> >> to get used to a bencher. They said no cell
>
> >> phones right, how about a key : ) : )
>
> >> Anyways, the soldering iron has been put away
>
> >> so long I bought one of those soldering stations,
>
> >> Used VIA one of the Yahoo groups : ) Sure am glad
>
> >> many of you are still hanging around. As While I did
>
> >> buy the book, and downloaded a bunch of info,
>
> >> dummy me might need an Elmer once in a while.
>
> >> I even bought a signal generator and O'scope to
>
> >> learn how to use, so will look forward to a few
>
> >> interesting evenings.
>
> >> Thanks too Jim !!! : )
>
> >> Anyone have a rough count as to how many of these
>
> >> rigs made it to be on the air, or how many are still on
>
> >> the bench???
>
> >> 73 72
>
> >> Bill KE9XQ
>
> >>
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> Do you need anything from me to re-ignite those 2n2-40 projects?
>
>
>
> 72,
>
>
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Good points, Jim.
Another question: I have a special folder in my Yahoo system for the 2N2-40 and have all messages saved since signing into the 2N2 Group. However, somehow I missed the Plus version of the 2N2 that you referenced: 2N2+
Here is the question since would rather build the latest, greatest version of the 2N2: Where is the Plus info? Is it on a webpage or a PDF file that a can be downloaded.
If you have a link for the Plus version, will you please provide it? I either missed it or came on board after it came out which result in the same thing. I appreciate it NOT being IC based and the only one I really appreciate is the LM386 audio amp with the noise-cutting "fix" with the 0.01MFD and 10K resistor in series between pins 5 and 8. However, this is only used on the Pixie II.
As a side comment, I built the Modern Radio Laboratories crystal radio back in the mid-50's and it went up to about 20M. Living in Florida, I picked up VOA every night from near Cincinnati, OH. Later, in KY, I picked up WOWO in Iowa and WRVA in Richmond, VA. I can only wonder what that radio could have done driving an LM386 amp.
.
Robert "Bob" Lunsford
Salyersville KY 41465-0606
Amateur Station KK5R
.
WHAT "CHANGE" WERE YOU HOPING FOR???
.
--- On Thu, 6/2/11, Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] King of Procrastinators Well maybe : )
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, June 2, 2011, 11:46 PM
On 6/2/2011 12:21 AM, Bob Lunsford wrote:
> Does anyone provide a kit of parts for building the 2n2-40?
Dan's Small Parts used to see a kit of parts but they were not very
good. I'm not sure that I've ever heard of anyone using that parts
set to build a functioning radio.
This would be a great way to get more people involved in QRP and
this part of the ham radio hobby.
We did several group buys back several years ago when the 2N2-40 and
2N2-40+ designs were new, but very few rigs got built back then. I
know I did over 300 crystal sets and most of those are on someones
shelf unused.
It would also guarantee that the 2n2-40 will never die as long as
there is ham radio.
I don't know about that. Those who are really motivated to build a
rig will find the parts and build it. Just my thoughts.....
> .
>
> Robert "Bob" Lunsford
>
> Salyersville KY 41465-0606
>
> Amateur Station KK5R
>
72,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On 6/3/2011 7:41 PM, Bob Lunsford wrote:
> Good points, Jim.
>
> Another question: I have a special folder in my Yahoo system for the 2N2-40 and have all messages saved since signing into the 2N2 Group. However, somehow I missed the Plus version of the 2N2 that you referenced: 2N2+
>
> Here is the question since would rather build the latest, greatest version of the 2N2: Where is the Plus info? Is it on a webpage or a PDF file that a can be downloaded.
>
> If you have a link for the Plus version, will you please provide it? I either missed it or came on board after it came out which result in the same thing. I appreciate it NOT being IC based and the only one I really appreciate is the LM386 audio amp with the noise-cutting "fix" with the 0.01MFD and 10K resistor in series between pins 5 and 8. However, this is only used on the Pixie II.
>
> As a side comment, I built the Modern Radio Laboratories crystal radio back in the mid-50's and it went up to about 20M. Living in Florida, I picked up VOA every night from near Cincinnati, OH. Later, in KY, I picked up WOWO in Iowa and WRVA in Richmond, VA. I can only wonder what that radio could have done driving an LM386 amp.
>
> .
>
> Robert "Bob" Lunsford
>
> Salyersville KY 41465-0606
>
> Amateur Station KK5R
>
Bob et. al,
I appears that I never finished putting the 2N2-40+ info on the
k8iqy.com web site. I've got the into, or at least most of it, and
I'd recommend building that version. When I have a few hours, I'll at
least put most of the relevant information into the 2N2/40 files
directory of the Yahoo group, if it isn't there already. I'll have to
go look, as I haven't been on that group site for several years. I've
forgotten what is there and what isn't. There must be some info
somewhere, as other have built that version of the rig! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Jim and the group.
I never took down the old info from the Flyiong Pig Group Build of the
2n2-40. Jim shared information with us and helped supply matched crystals
for that build. I know for a fact a bunch of these got on the air.
You can find links and schematics, old parts lists and pics of different
layouts there I think. Here is the link:
http://www.qsl.net/af4ps/2n2-40.html This rig was a lot of fun and very educational for me. Jim was and is a
SUPER elmer and support to our build.
-MAC-
AF4PS
FP-51
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thanks to everyone for the words of encouragement as I begin the 2n2-40+ build.
I'll be trying my hand at this as a Manhattan style project using boards that are somewhat larger than necessary in order to give my fat fingers room to maneuver...hi.
I started out with someone else's bill of materials, I'm not sure where I got it but thanks to whoever worked it up. It's a very good document and certainly has been invaluable to me in starting to gather all of the parts. It looks like it was a Word or Excel document and the only heading on it is "2N2/40+ Parts" and then "revised for 11/23/2003 schematics". The column headings are "mouser p/n"; "QTY"; "References"; "Value"; "Comments"; and "Item #". As I said whoever made this up - please accept my thanks.
The "Reference" column lists the Schematic part number R1, C2, etc.
First I went through the junk box and saw what I had and I marked those items on this listing. Then I went to Mouser and, using the part number on the sheet, put together a "project" on the Mouser site.
The few parts I didn't have or that Mouser didn't carry I found at Dan's. These were primarily Diodes D9 and 19 (MV1662); D7 (MVAM10; and D30 (MV209).
I'm about ready to place the order with Mouser but have a few parts that are driving the cost up to around $90 (incl s/h). The price is fine, but if I can shave off a few dollars - why not? Here are the items that are adding to the Mouser bill - if anyone can tell me a cheaper substitite without compromising things, I'd appreciate hearing from you:
Trimmer caps TC1,2,5,6,7,8 and 9 with a stated value of 11-70 pf. Seven in total. I found Mouser # 659-GZC80000 which is 8-80 pf with a cost of $2.30 each for a total of $16.10 for the seven of 'em.
Silver Mica Capacitors C87, C69 and C68 are About $2.50 each. I can spring for them, but is it necessary that they are silver mica caps?
Mouser part # 1430-1224 is a 100Volt .22uF polyester film capacitor at 77 cents each, but there are 22 of them for a cost of $15.67. These are numbered C5,6,18,23,24, etc.
The last one is C31 and C46 which are Mouser # 1431-2474J 250V 4.7uF Polypropylene film caps costing $2.22 each.
Please understand that I certainly want to get the right quality componenents but someone had mentioned the overall costs sounded high and if i am in an overkill situation please let me know and I can cut back. (Of course, Mouser probably isn't the cheapest route either. but convenience has a price, I suppose.)
So that's it, I'm ready to place the order and start the fun. Any input you may have will be more that appreciated.
73 de
Tom
WB2QDG
|
3990|3989|2011-06-05 09:30:13|Jim Kortge|Re: About to place my order for 2N2-40+|On 6/4/2011 9:34 PM, redmen1969 wrote:
> Thanks to everyone for the words of encouragement as I begin the 2n2-40+ build.
>
> I'll be trying my hand at this as a Manhattan style project using boards that are somewhat larger than necessary in order to give my fat fingers room to maneuver...hi.
>
> I started out with someone else's bill of materials, I'm not sure where I got it but thanks to whoever worked it up. It's a very good document and certainly has been invaluable to me in starting to gather all of the parts. It looks like it was a Word or Excel document and the only heading on it is "2N2/40+ Parts" and then "revised for 11/23/2003 schematics". The column headings are "mouser p/n"; "QTY"; "References"; "Value"; "Comments"; and "Item #". As I said whoever made this up - please accept my thanks.
>
> The "Reference" column lists the Schematic part number R1, C2, etc.
>
> First I went through the junk box and saw what I had and I marked those items on this listing. Then I went to Mouser and, using the part number on the sheet, put together a "project" on the Mouser site.
>
> The few parts I didn't have or that Mouser didn't carry I found at Dan's. These were primarily Diodes D9 and 19 (MV1662); D7 (MVAM10; and D30 (MV209).
>
> I'm about ready to place the order with Mouser but have a few parts that are driving the cost up to around $90 (incl s/h). The price is fine, but if I can shave off a few dollars - why not? Here are the items that are adding to the Mouser bill - if anyone can tell me a cheaper substitite without compromising things, I'd appreciate hearing from you:
>
> Trimmer caps TC1,2,5,6,7,8 and 9 with a stated value of 11-70 pf. Seven in total. I found Mouser # 659-GZC80000 which is 8-80 pf with a cost of $2.30 each for a total of $16.10 for the seven of 'em.
Use Mouser part number TZ03P600F169B00 for the trimmers. That part
number will work fine.
>
> Silver Mica Capacitors C87, C69 and C68 are About $2.50 each. I can spring for them, but is it necessary that they are silver mica caps?
No, disc ceramics or multilayer ceramic NP0 capacitors at 50-100 volts
will work fine as will polystyrene. They do need to be high Q
capacitors which all of the above are.
>
> Mouser part # 1430-1224 is a 100Volt .22uF polyester film capacitor at 77 cents each, but there are 22 of them for a cost of $15.67.
Use common 0.1 uF multilayer ceramics for those. They are all RF
bypasses and don't need to be 0.22 uF. I used those originally as I
had a ton of them from Dan's.
These are numbered C5,6,18,23,24, etc.
>
> The last one is C31 and C46 which are Mouser # 1431-2474J 250V 4.7uF Polypropylene film caps costing $2.22 each.
If they are 4.7 uF, they are common general purpose electrolytic
capacitors that ought to cost less then $0.10 each
>
> Please understand that I certainly want to get the right quality componenents but someone had mentioned the overall costs sounded high and if i am in an overkill situation please let me know and I can cut back. (Of course, Mouser probably isn't the cheapest route either. but convenience has a price, I suppose.)
>
> So that's it, I'm ready to place the order and start the fun. Any input you may have will be more that appreciated.
See above Tom. When I was designing the 2N2 series of rigs, one of
the goals was to make it buildable by hams in 3rd World Countries. So
all of the parts were very common and not exotic at all. If you run
across anything that looks that way, it isn't the correct part.
72 and have fun,
>
> 73 de
> Tom
> WB2QDG
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim -- thanks for your help and, of course your insights. I'll make the changes to the order you had suggested and send it off.
Tnx agn
Tom
WB2QDG
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> On 6/4/2011 9:34 PM, redmen1969 wrote:
> > Thanks to everyone for the words of encouragement as I begin the 2n2-40+ build.
> >
> > I'll be trying my hand at this as a Manhattan style project using boards that are somewhat larger than necessary in order to give my fat fingers room to maneuver...hi.
> >
> > I started out with someone else's bill of materials, I'm not sure where I got it but thanks to whoever worked it up. It's a very good document and certainly has been invaluable to me in starting to gather all of the parts. It looks like it was a Word or Excel document and the only heading on it is "2N2/40+ Parts" and then "revised for 11/23/2003 schematics". The column headings are "mouser p/n"; "QTY"; "References"; "Value"; "Comments"; and "Item #". As I said whoever made this up - please accept my thanks.
> >
> > The "Reference" column lists the Schematic part number R1, C2, etc.
> >
> > First I went through the junk box and saw what I had and I marked those items on this listing. Then I went to Mouser and, using the part number on the sheet, put together a "project" on the Mouser site.
> >
> > The few parts I didn't have or that Mouser didn't carry I found at Dan's. These were primarily Diodes D9 and 19 (MV1662); D7 (MVAM10; and D30 (MV209).
> >
> > I'm about ready to place the order with Mouser but have a few parts that are driving the cost up to around $90 (incl s/h). The price is fine, but if I can shave off a few dollars - why not? Here are the items that are adding to the Mouser bill - if anyone can tell me a cheaper substitite without compromising things, I'd appreciate hearing from you:
> >
> > Trimmer caps TC1,2,5,6,7,8 and 9 with a stated value of 11-70 pf. Seven in total. I found Mouser # 659-GZC80000 which is 8-80 pf with a cost of $2.30 each for a total of $16.10 for the seven of 'em.
>
> Use Mouser part number TZ03P600F169B00 for the trimmers. That part
> number will work fine.
> >
> > Silver Mica Capacitors C87, C69 and C68 are About $2.50 each. I can spring for them, but is it necessary that they are silver mica caps?
>
> No, disc ceramics or multilayer ceramic NP0 capacitors at 50-100 volts
> will work fine as will polystyrene. They do need to be high Q
> capacitors which all of the above are.
>
> >
> > Mouser part # 1430-1224 is a 100Volt .22uF polyester film capacitor at 77 cents each, but there are 22 of them for a cost of $15.67.
>
> Use common 0.1 uF multilayer ceramics for those. They are all RF
> bypasses and don't need to be 0.22 uF. I used those originally as I
> had a ton of them from Dan's.
>
> These are numbered C5,6,18,23,24, etc.
> >
> > The last one is C31 and C46 which are Mouser # 1431-2474J 250V 4.7uF Polypropylene film caps costing $2.22 each.
>
> If they are 4.7 uF, they are common general purpose electrolytic
> capacitors that ought to cost less then $0.10 each
> >
> > Please understand that I certainly want to get the right quality componenents but someone had mentioned the overall costs sounded high and if i am in an overkill situation please let me know and I can cut back. (Of course, Mouser probably isn't the cheapest route either. but convenience has a price, I suppose.)
> >
> > So that's it, I'm ready to place the order and start the fun. Any input you may have will be more that appreciated.
>
>
> See above Tom. When I was designing the 2N2 series of rigs, one of
> the goals was to make it buildable by hams in 3rd World Countries. So
> all of the parts were very common and not exotic at all. If you run
> across anything that looks that way, it isn't the correct part.
>
> 72 and have fun,
> >
> > 73 de
> > Tom
> > WB2QDG
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Jim -
I'm slowly gathering parts to build either a 2N2/30 or 2N2/20 (haven't decided yet). I'm a few months and a few projects away from starting, but I notice that in your most recent design, the SS-40, you've used metal film resistors for low noise. Would there be any significant noise advantage to my using metal film resistors in a 2N2 design? My 2N2/40 is already impressively low in noise and I'm wondering if there would be a noticeable difference,
Dave
AA7EE
|
3993|3992|2011-07-12 17:04:59|Jim Kortge|Re: Metal Film Resistors in 2N2?|On 7/12/2011 3:07 PM, Dave AA7EE wrote:
> Jim -
Hi Dave,
>
> I'm slowly gathering parts to build either a 2N2/30 or 2N2/20 (haven't decided yet).
Good for you. If you run into issues finding parts, let me know. I
may be able to help out.
I'm a few months and a few projects away from starting, but I notice
that in your most recent design, the SS-40, you've used metal film
resistors for low noise.
Indeed I did. First time I've used Metal Film resistors. They don't
cost all that much more than the more common carbon film.
Would there be any significant noise advantage to my using metal
film resistors in a 2N2 design?
I don't know. When we decided to kit the SS-40, I decided to give
them a try on the premise that anything that helps with noise might be
worth doing, especially if it doesn't have a significant cost penality.
My 2N2/40 is already impressively low in noise and I'm wondering if
there would be a noticeable difference,
The SS-40 is another 25 dB quieter than the 2N2/40. Not all of that
is due to the resistors, but some of it may well be. :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Jim - that was my thinking too - if it doesn't cost much more then it certainly couldn't hurt to use them.
I'm intrigued by the idea of a 2N2 with metal film resistors.
Dave
AA7EE
|
3995|3995|2011-09-06 18:25:18|William Wood|links : )||
3996|3992|2011-09-27 00:15:38|Dave AA7EE|Re: Metal Film Resistors in 2N2?|I've heard many great reports about the quietness of the SS-40 receiver Jim so I am now starting to think that my dream transceiver would be a QRP design with a receiver based on the SS-40, but with a stable free-running VFO, as in the 2N2, for wider coverage.
My 2n2/40 is such a joy to operate that a transceiver with an even quieter receiver would be a must for me.
So if you're ever thinking of designing anything else.......
Dave
AA7EE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> The SS-40 is another 25 dB quieter than the 2N2/40. Not all of that
> is due to the resistors, but some of it may well be. :-)
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
How could you get it much quieter than a 2N2-40? As I tune my 2N2-40 across
the band all of a sudden the signals just leap into the air! Beats my
IC-781 (except for bands and power out).
73 de Lee
KM4YY
On 9/27/2011 12:15 AM, Dave AA7EE wrote:
>
> I've heard many great reports about the quietness of the SS-40 receiver Jim so I am now starting to think that my dream transceiver would be a QRP design with a receiver based on the SS-40, but with a stable free-running VFO, as in the 2N2, for wider coverage.
>
> My 2n2/40 is such a joy to operate that a transceiver with an even quieter receiver would be a must for me.
>
> So if you're ever thinking of designing anything else.......
>
> Dave
> AA7EE
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
>> The SS-40 is another 25 dB quieter than the 2N2/40. Not all of that
>> is due to the resistors, but some of it may well be. :-)
>>
>> 72,
>>
>> Jim, K8IQY
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
On 9/27/2011 2:21 PM, Lee Mairs, KM4YY (SAG) wrote:
> How could you get it much quieter than a 2N2-40?
Magic Lee! :-) The SS-40 is indeed at least 25 dB quieter then the
2N2/XX rigs. That's when I knew that the SS-40 design needed to see
the light of day. Thanks to the 4 State folks, we were able to make
that happen.
As I tune my 2N2-40 across
> the band all of a sudden the signals just leap into the air! Beats my
> IC-781 (except for bands and power out).
I was just playing around with a production SS-40 here trying to make
some measurements of IP3 and the like. I can't get enough power into
it with my setup to even hear any 2nd or 3rd order products, let alone
measure them. This receiver has an MDS of -135 dBm, so hears very
well. You sure get an appreciation for how much band noise there is
on 40 with a receiver that sensitive and quiet.
72 and be well,
Jim, K8IQY
On 9/27/2011 12:15 AM, Dave AA7EE wrote:
>
>
> I've heard many great reports about the quietness of the SS-40 receiver Jim so I am now starting to think that my dream transceiver would be a QRP design with a receiver based on the SS-40, but with a stable free-running VFO, as in the 2N2, for wider coverage.
>
> My 2n2/40 is such a joy to operate that a transceiver with an even quieter receiver would be a must for me.
>
> So if you're ever thinking of designing anything else.......
>
> Dave
> AA7EE
>
Dave,
Thanks for you comments. No plans to do another transceiver near
term, but maybe someday. The SS-40 has room for improvement, so might
so that at sometime. I keep dreaming about kits for the 4017
Transverter and the 2N2/6 Transverter. Don't know whether or not good
finals are available for those, but if so, it might be a go sometime.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Tom,
Long time no type! :-) To make an exceptionally long story short, I've
taken early semi-retirement and moved to Oklahoma with my XYL and our two
grown sons. I lived in OK from age 0-24 and my XYL lived here for a good
part of her premarital life, so we're mostly (99%) glad to be home again.
However, I'm *not* dropping completely out of sight of the LIQRP Club. I'm
going to keep reading the LIQRP email list all the time, and continue
managing the list, including moderating new subscribers' initial posts
(hopefully, invisibly) for the foreseeable future. Wish I could have done
more to build membership and interest in the club while I lived on the
island, but the demands on my time at work had gotten to the point that I
wasn't even managing to attend LIQRP meetings myself, so I didn't feel right
about inviting new people to meetings and then not showing up to welcome
them. :-( Anyway, most people on the LIQRP list will never know I've left,
unless someone tells them! ;-)
I just noticed that you're building a 2N2/40 � cool!! (I think you and I
subscribe to virtually the same two-dozen or so email lists. :-) How's the
project coming along? Do you recommend the experience? Are you learning as
much as you expected? Do you have an oscilloscope? If not, is it an undue
burden to try to build a 2N2/xx without a scope? What has been the most
difficult part of the project? Sourcing the parts? Also, what do you think
of the Manhattan-style construction technique? Is that how you're building
it, or are you etching your own boards? I sure wish I could do
Manhattan-style as neatly as Jim, K8IQY, does! I love to gaze at hi res
photos of circuits he has built Manhattan-style. Finally, if you've finished
the build, how does the 2N2/40 seem to perform on the air? Is it worse,
equal to, or better to operate than some of the monoband kits that have been
popular over the past 15 or so years?
I'm probably going to build a 2N2/xx Manhattan-style starting in a few
months, unless you tell me the project was hell. :-) (I won't be starting
the project right away though, because I've been overwhelmed with things I
have to do since retiring -- I don' think that's how it's supposed to be!
:-( Anyway, before I start on such an ambitious project (more ambitious
than building a K2, in my opinion), I've decided to bite the bullet and buy
an oscilloscope (although another part of me would rather be spending my
limited hamming funds on *radios* :-) but I have no idea where to start in
shopping / searching for one, or even whether to look for a new scope or a
used one that is 20-25 years old.
Although new scopes that rely heavily on an external PC are fairly
inexpensive, the problem with them is that they're designed with digital
circuits, not analog HF circuits, in mind. As such, a modern digital scope
can easily miss a one-off transient that doesn't repeat periodically. And,
as I understand it, such transients may often be exactly what one is trying
to find in working with analog HF radios. In order to find such a spike in
the HF spectrum, a scope would have to have a great deal of memory to
accommodate the massive inflow of data resulting from a very high sampling
rate. Apparently, a scope's sampling rate (in MHz) spec can give one a false
sense of security. In other words, a modern 100 MHz digital scope may not
really be able to do what you want it to do all the way up to 100 MHz. But
that's the extent of my knowledge � I can't give you a more detailed
technical explanation, so I'm still somewhat in the dark as to whether to
buy an old analog scope (say, 20 years old) that I'm sure will find those
nasty spikes, or whether to take a chance on a newfangled scope that is just
what the doc ordered for the digital workings of microprocessor (e.g., PIC,
I think) controlled radios, such as SDRs.
Just wanted to find out whether you have a scope and, if so, how you
selected it, or if you're planning to buy one in the not-too-distant
future...?
Hope all is well with you and yours these days.
Hope to run into you on the air sometime. Did you ever get an antenna put
up? You know, we're much more likely to run into each other on the air now
that I'm far away, because we're separated by one skip hop! (as opposed to
skipping right over each other's heads after the groundwave peters out. :-/
73 & 72,
Jeff
NE2J
On Sat, Jun 4, 2011 at 8:34 PM, redmen1969 <redmen1969@yahoo.com> wrote:
> **
>
>
> Thanks to everyone for the words of encouragement as I begin the 2n2-40+
> build.
>
> I'll be trying my hand at this as a Manhattan style project using boards
> that are somewhat larger than necessary in order to give my fat fingers room
> to maneuver...hi.
>
> I started out with someone else's bill of materials, I'm not sure where I
> got it but thanks to whoever worked it up. It's a very good document and
> certainly has been invaluable to me in starting to gather all of the parts.
> It looks like it was a Word or Excel document and the only heading on it is
> "2N2/40+ Parts" and then "revised for 11/23/2003 schematics". The column
> headings are "mouser p/n"; "QTY"; "References"; "Value"; "Comments"; and
> "Item #". As I said whoever made this up - please accept my thanks.
>
> The "Reference" column lists the Schematic part number R1, C2, etc.
>
> First I went through the junk box and saw what I had and I marked those
> items on this listing. Then I went to Mouser and, using the part number on
> the sheet, put together a "project" on the Mouser site.
>
> The few parts I didn't have or that Mouser didn't carry I found at Dan's.
> These were primarily Diodes D9 and 19 (MV1662); D7 (MVAM10; and D30 (MV209).
>
> I'm about ready to place the order with Mouser but have a few parts that
> are driving the cost up to around $90 (incl s/h). The price is fine, but if
> I can shave off a few dollars - why not? Here are the items that are adding
> to the Mouser bill - if anyone can tell me a cheaper substitite without
> compromising things, I'd appreciate hearing from you:
>
> Trimmer caps TC1,2,5,6,7,8 and 9 with a stated value of 11-70 pf. Seven in
> total. I found Mouser # 659-GZC80000 which is 8-80 pf with a cost of $2.30
> each for a total of $16.10 for the seven of 'em.
>
> Silver Mica Capacitors C87, C69 and C68 are About $2.50 each. I can spring
> for them, but is it necessary that they are silver mica caps?
>
> Mouser part # 1430-1224 is a 100Volt .22uF polyester film capacitor at 77
> cents each, but there are 22 of them for a cost of $15.67. These are
> numbered C5,6,18,23,24, etc.
>
> The last one is C31 and C46 which are Mouser # 1431-2474J 250V 4.7uF
> Polypropylene film caps costing $2.22 each.
>
> Please understand that I certainly want to get the right quality
> componenents but someone had mentioned the overall costs sounded high and if
> i am in an overkill situation please let me know and I can cut back. (Of
> course, Mouser probably isn't the cheapest route either. but convenience has
> a price, I suppose.)
>
> So that's it, I'm ready to place the order and start the fun. Any input you
> may have will be more that appreciated.
>
> 73 de
> Tom
> WB2QDG
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi gang,
I'm sorry that the previous message meant for Tom went to the entire
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com list, but I carelessly forgot to change the
destination from the default to Tom's address.
By the way, if anyone did happen to read the misaddressed message, and if
you happen to have any advice concerning what kind of oscilloscope I should
look for, and in particular, whether I should be looking at brand new
or *>*20-year-old scopes, I'd be very grateful for your guidance. I'm
interested
mainly in using a scope for working with analog HF transmitters and
receivers, such as a 2N2/xx, although I also plan to do some work with
digital circuits and microprocessor controlled radios somewhere down the
road, assuming I ever get around to it.
Thanks very much & 72,
Jeff
NE2J (formerly WB5GWB)
Near Oklahoma City, OK
p.s. If anyone on the list resides in central Oklahoma, I'd be especially
delighted to talk with you about the level of interest in QRP in this part
of the world.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
For
anyone interested, here is a kit I found for the 2N2-20 on QTH.COM and
is anyone is interested, contact the Lou at email address below who has it. I wanted it but
told the kit owner to sell it if anyone came to him before my money made
it back to him. However, I'd prefer a 40M version, instead. anyone interested may go to
qth.com and use the listing number to see original ad or contact KD2MU from info below.
Just tell him that KK5R referred you to him.
Listing Number: 938971
Date Ad was Placed: 09/19/11
Name: Lou Visconti
Email:
lviscont@verizon.net Phone Number: 631-928-2780
Callsign: KD2MU
FOR SALE: NorCal 2N2/20 QRP Transceiver
Ad Message:
For sale a new, unopened 2N2/20 NorCal QRP
transceiver kit. This is the legendary K8IQY design
kitted by the NorCal QRP Club. This is the 20 meter
version. Schematic, instructions and reviews available
at
http://www.norcalqrp.org/nc2n2xx.htm. Only 200 of these were kitted, and not currently in
stock at NorCal.$120 shipped CONUS.
.
Robert "Bob" Lunsford
Salyersville KY 41465-0606
Amateur Station KK5R
.
WHAT "CHANGE" WERE YOU HOPING FOR???
.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Forget the scope!
I never used mine while building my 2N2-40. Manhattan style is fun, and with
effort and patience (more than I have) will look as good as Jim's work. I
agree that his stuff is unbelievable. I'll send you direct a photo of my
2N2-40. It doesn't look anything like Jim's work, but it works just as good.
I did have a problem with birdies unti I put the faraday shield around to
oscillators.
Just get started! You will be happy as a clam.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
Romney, WV
PS: How about adding me to the LIQRP email list? I have a cottage on Oak
Island (directly across the bay from Babylon)where I try and live during the
summer.
On 10/5/2011 1:19 AM, Jeff wrote:
> Hi Tom,
>
> Long time no type! :-) To make an exceptionally long story short, I've
> taken early semi-retirement and moved to Oklahoma with my XYL and our two
> grown sons. I lived in OK from age 0-24 and my XYL lived here for a good
> part of her premarital life, so we're mostly (99%) glad to be home again.
>
> However, I'm *not* dropping completely out of sight of the LIQRP Club. I'm
> going to keep reading the LIQRP email list all the time, and continue
> managing the list, including moderating new subscribers' initial posts
> (hopefully, invisibly) for the foreseeable future. Wish I could have done
> more to build membership and interest in the club while I lived on the
> island, but the demands on my time at work had gotten to the point that I
> wasn't even managing to attend LIQRP meetings myself, so I didn't feel right
> about inviting new people to meetings and then not showing up to welcome
> them. :-( Anyway, most people on the LIQRP list will never know I've left,
> unless someone tells them! ;-)
>
> I just noticed that you're building a 2N2/40 – cool!! (I think you and I
> subscribe to virtually the same two-dozen or so email lists. :-) How's the
> project coming along? Do you recommend the experience? Are you learning as
> much as you expected? Do you have an oscilloscope? If not, is it an undue
> burden to try to build a 2N2/xx without a scope? What has been the most
> difficult part of the project? Sourcing the parts? Also, what do you think
> of the Manhattan-style construction technique? Is that how you're building
> it, or are you etching your own boards? I sure wish I could do
> Manhattan-style as neatly as Jim, K8IQY, does! I love to gaze at hi res
> photos of circuits he has built Manhattan-style. Finally, if you've finished
> the build, how does the 2N2/40 seem to perform on the air? Is it worse,
> equal to, or better to operate than some of the monoband kits that have been
> popular over the past 15 or so years?
>
> I'm probably going to build a 2N2/xx Manhattan-style starting in a few
> months, unless you tell me the project was hell. :-) (I won't be starting
> the project right away though, because I've been overwhelmed with things I
> have to do since retiring -- I don' think that's how it's supposed to be!
> :-( Anyway, before I start on such an ambitious project (more ambitious
> than building a K2, in my opinion), I've decided to bite the bullet and buy
> an oscilloscope (although another part of me would rather be spending my
> limited hamming funds on *radios* :-) but I have no idea where to start in
> shopping / searching for one, or even whether to look for a new scope or a
> used one that is 20-25 years old.
>
> Although new scopes that rely heavily on an external PC are fairly
> inexpensive, the problem with them is that they're designed with digital
> circuits, not analog HF circuits, in mind. As such, a modern digital scope
> can easily miss a one-off transient that doesn't repeat periodically. And,
> as I understand it, such transients may often be exactly what one is trying
> to find in working with analog HF radios. In order to find such a spike in
> the HF spectrum, a scope would have to have a great deal of memory to
> accommodate the massive inflow of data resulting from a very high sampling
> rate. Apparently, a scope's sampling rate (in MHz) spec can give one a false
> sense of security. In other words, a modern 100 MHz digital scope may not
> really be able to do what you want it to do all the way up to 100 MHz. But
> that's the extent of my knowledge – I can't give you a more detailed
> technical explanation, so I'm still somewhat in the dark as to whether to
> buy an old analog scope (say, 20 years old) that I'm sure will find those
> nasty spikes, or whether to take a chance on a newfangled scope that is just
> what the doc ordered for the digital workings of microprocessor (e.g., PIC,
> I think) controlled radios, such as SDRs.
>
> Just wanted to find out whether you have a scope and, if so, how you
> selected it, or if you're planning to buy one in the not-too-distant
> future...?
>
> Hope all is well with you and yours these days.
>
> Hope to run into you on the air sometime. Did you ever get an antenna put
> up? You know, we're much more likely to run into each other on the air now
> that I'm far away, because we're separated by one skip hop! (as opposed to
> skipping right over each other's heads after the groundwave peters out. :-/
>
> 73& 72,
>
> Jeff
>
> NE2J
>
> On Sat, Jun 4, 2011 at 8:34 PM, redmen1969<redmen1969@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> **
>>
>>
>> Thanks to everyone for the words of encouragement as I begin the 2n2-40+
>> build.
>>
>> I'll be trying my hand at this as a Manhattan style project using boards
>> that are somewhat larger than necessary in order to give my fat fingers room
>> to maneuver...hi.
>>
>> I started out with someone else's bill of materials, I'm not sure where I
>> got it but thanks to whoever worked it up. It's a very good document and
>> certainly has been invaluable to me in starting to gather all of the parts.
>> It looks like it was a Word or Excel document and the only heading on it is
>> "2N2/40+ Parts" and then "revised for 11/23/2003 schematics". The column
>> headings are "mouser p/n"; "QTY"; "References"; "Value"; "Comments"; and
>> "Item #". As I said whoever made this up - please accept my thanks.
>>
>> The "Reference" column lists the Schematic part number R1, C2, etc.
>>
>> First I went through the junk box and saw what I had and I marked those
>> items on this listing. Then I went to Mouser and, using the part number on
>> the sheet, put together a "project" on the Mouser site.
>>
>> The few parts I didn't have or that Mouser didn't carry I found at Dan's.
>> These were primarily Diodes D9 and 19 (MV1662); D7 (MVAM10; and D30 (MV209).
>>
>> I'm about ready to place the order with Mouser but have a few parts that
>> are driving the cost up to around $90 (incl s/h). The price is fine, but if
>> I can shave off a few dollars - why not? Here are the items that are adding
>> to the Mouser bill - if anyone can tell me a cheaper substitite without
>> compromising things, I'd appreciate hearing from you:
>>
>> Trimmer caps TC1,2,5,6,7,8 and 9 with a stated value of 11-70 pf. Seven in
>> total. I found Mouser # 659-GZC80000 which is 8-80 pf with a cost of $2.30
>> each for a total of $16.10 for the seven of 'em.
>>
>> Silver Mica Capacitors C87, C69 and C68 are About $2.50 each. I can spring
>> for them, but is it necessary that they are silver mica caps?
>>
>> Mouser part # 1430-1224 is a 100Volt .22uF polyester film capacitor at 77
>> cents each, but there are 22 of them for a cost of $15.67. These are
>> numbered C5,6,18,23,24, etc.
>>
>> The last one is C31 and C46 which are Mouser # 1431-2474J 250V 4.7uF
>> Polypropylene film caps costing $2.22 each.
>>
>> Please understand that I certainly want to get the right quality
>> componenents but someone had mentioned the overall costs sounded high and if
>> i am in an overkill situation please let me know and I can cut back. (Of
>> course, Mouser probably isn't the cheapest route either. but convenience has
>> a price, I suppose.)
>>
>> So that's it, I'm ready to place the order and start the fun. Any input you
>> may have will be more that appreciated.
>>
>> 73 de
>> Tom
>> WB2QDG
>>
>>
>>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Hello all.
I am having trouble locating a supplier of a suitable transformer, preferably this side of the pond.
Any hints on were to look?
Regards Darren g0ott
|
4005|4004|2011-11-30 18:10:37|wa5pse|Re: T10 supplier?|Hi Darren,
I was about to say Mouser Electronics, then, noticed your call!
Have you checked with Farnell?
Mike, WA5PSE
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "darren8195" wrote:
>
> Hello all.
>
> I am having trouble locating a supplier of a suitable transformer, preferably this side of the pond.
>
> Any hints on were to look?
>
> Regards Darren g0ott
>
On 11/29/2011 6:53 PM, darren8195 wrote:
> Hello all.
>
> I am having trouble locating a supplier of a suitable transformer, preferably this side of the pond.
>
> Any hints on were to look?
>
> Regards Darren g0ott
>
>
Farnell would be the obvious choice, but I just checked and don't
don't carry much in audio transformers. Mouser is where I buy them,
but the shipping overseas is probably a bit much. If you can find an
old transistor radio from 30 years ago, hack the output transformer
out of that. It will probably work fine. Ditto for an old defunct TV.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Another source in England is Tim Walford <
walfor@globalnet.co.uk> who offers qrp kits there. He is the designer and sells kits. I suspect he has what a QRPer in England would need.
Here is his homepage:
http://www.walfordelectronics.co.uk/ Here is his kit listing:
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~walfor/list.htm .
Robert "Bob" Lunsford
Salyersville KY 41465-0606
Amateur Station KK5R
.
WHAT "CHANGE" WERE YOU HOPING FOR???
.
--- On Thu, 12/1/11, Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] T10 supplier?
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Cc: "darren8195" <g0ott@hotmail.com>
Date: Thursday, December 1, 2011, 10:51 AM
On 11/29/2011 6:53 PM, darren8195 wrote:
> Hello all.
>
> I am having trouble locating a supplier of a suitable transformer, preferably this side of the pond.
>
> Any hints on were to look?
>
> Regards Darren g0ott
>
>
Farnell would be the obvious choice, but I just checked and don't
don't carry much in audio transformers. Mouser is where I buy them,
but the shipping overseas is probably a bit much. If you can find an
old transistor radio from 30 years ago, hack the output transformer
out of that. It will probably work fine. Ditto for an old defunct TV.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
tnx Jim,Will have a look around73 Darren
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com CC:
g0ott@hotmail.com From:
jim.k8iqy@gmail.com Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 21:51:50 -0500
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] T10 supplier?
On 11/29/2011 6:53 PM, darren8195 wrote:
> Hello all.
>
> I am having trouble locating a supplier of a suitable transformer, preferably this side of the pond.
>
> Any hints on were to look?
>
> Regards Darren g0ott
>
>
Farnell would be the obvious choice, but I just checked and don't
don't carry much in audio transformers. Mouser is where I buy them,
but the shipping overseas is probably a bit much. If you can find an
old transistor radio from 30 years ago, hack the output transformer
out of that. It will probably work fine. Ditto for an old defunct TV.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Darren
Here is a link to the ones that I bought from an eBay seller based in
Shropshire @ £3.19 ea + p&p
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audio-Output-Transformer-/120803238870?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item1c206f23d6 73
Richard F5VJD
On 01/12/2011 11:02, darren McDonald wrote:
> tnx Jim,Will have a look around73 Darren
>
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> CC: g0ott@hotmail.com
> From: jim.k8iqy@gmail.com
> Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 21:51:50 -0500
> Subject: Re: [2n2-40] T10 supplier?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 11/29/2011 6:53 PM, darren8195 wrote:
>
>> Hello all.
>> I am having trouble locating a supplier of a suitable transformer, preferably this side of the pond.
>> Any hints on were to look?
>> Regards Darren g0ott
>
>
> Farnell would be the obvious choice, but I just checked and don't
>
> don't carry much in audio transformers. Mouser is where I buy them,
>
> but the shipping overseas is probably a bit much. If you can find an
>
> old transistor radio from 30 years ago, hack the output transformer
>
> out of that. It will probably work fine. Ditto for an old defunct TV.
>
>
>
> 72 and GL,
>
>
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
the 2n22 trasnciever looks like a good design. All of the parts are common parts except the varactor diodes seem to be coming hard to find. Are there more up to date parts that substituted for these increasingly rare parts?
Yours VA6WP Tom
|
4013|4012|2011-12-14 10:13:06|Jim Kortge|Re: varactor diodes|On 12/11/2011 5:54 PM, baldreyt wrote:
> the 2n22 trasnciever looks like a good design.
It has had good success.
All of the parts are common parts except the varactor diodes
Those were quite common and easy to find when it was first designed.
seem to be coming hard to find.
They are. Nobody wanted to retool them for the RoHS requirements.
Same think happened to all of the good bipolar RF transistors that we
could get.
Are there more up to date parts that substituted for these
increasingly rare parts?
No. Diz at Kits and Parts has MVAM109 and MV109 still and I believe
has an ongoing source for them out of China.
>
> Yours VA6WP Tom
72 and kind regards Tom,
Jim, K8IQY
Tom if you are still having trouble then GQRP club sales stock them.
Many sellers on ebay can also be found.
Regards Darren g0ott
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "baldreyt" wrote:
>
> the 2n22 trasnciever looks like a good design. All of the parts are common parts except the varactor diodes seem to be coming hard to find. Are there more up to date parts that substituted for these increasingly rare parts?
>
> Yours VA6WP Tom
>
In the Group folder "2N240+ Schematics" the Bill of Material is so far out of sync with the schematic that the BOM should probably be removed until I can generate a new one from the schematic.
I checked only the Rx Local Oscillator section and found the following four discrepancies:
1. On schematic, C37 is 0.22uF; on BOM is 0.082uF
2. On schematic, R15 is 470 ohm; on BOM is 560 ohm
3. On schematic, L4 is 22uH; on BOM is 4.7uH
4. On schematic, C19 is 47pf; on BOM is 220pF
Of the 14 components in the Rx LO section, four disagree with the BOM. That's about 30%.
The internal creation date of the BOM PDF is OCT-31-2001 vs. NOV-25-2003 for page #1 of the schematics.
So, I have to ask,
1. Is the schematic fairly accurate and trustworthy?
2. Is there an errata sheet for changes to the design since the canonical schematic revision 02-01-2002" posted in the "2N240+ Schematics" folder
If I'm assured the schematics are basically "golden", I'll regenerate the BOM in an Excel spreadsheet for the benefit of all.
Lou
|
4017|4016|2012-03-20 17:18:13|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2-40+ Schematic vs. Bill of Material Far Out of Sync|On 3/20/2012 4:28 PM, kb1uys wrote:
Lou,
Before answering all of the issues you've brought up, you need to know
that the 2N2-40 group was founded at the beginning of the design life
of that rig, back in 1998. I didn't start the group; it was started
by a ham who had decided to build my design as a means of sharing his
progress. Almost immediately, others joined in as they had an
interest in building the rig. As the designed matured, due to
learning things and parts becoming obsolete, running changes were
made, but there wasn't a great deal of effort put forth to make sure
that all of the various documents fit together and portrayed a
consistent picture of the design at a given point in time. The were
at least 3 group builds organized and accomplished in the first
several years of the design.
> In the Group folder "2N240+ Schematics" the Bill of Material is so far out of sync with the schematic that the BOM should probably be removed until I can generate a new one from the schematic.
Or a newer one added with the components shown on the schematics in
that folder. I'm not sure the the old WinDraft schematic capture
program still runs and will produce an accurate. Gotta remember, most
of the documentation on the 2n2-40 site is approaching 14 years of age.
>
> I checked only the Rx Local Oscillator section and found the following four discrepancies:
>
> 1. On schematic, C37 is 0.22uF; on BOM is 0.082uF
> 2. On schematic, R15 is 470 ohm; on BOM is 560 ohm
> 3. On schematic, L4 is 22uH; on BOM is 4.7uH
> 4. On schematic, C19 is 47pf; on BOM is 220pF
I'm not surprised by any of that.....
>
> Of the 14 components in the Rx LO section, four disagree with the BOM. That's about 30%.
Yes, see comments above. You are coming in very late to the 2N2-40
activity and I and several others of the "experts" who worked with
this rig have all moved on to other things.
>
> The internal creation date of the BOM PDF is OCT-31-2001 vs. NOV-25-2003 for page #1 of the schematics.
>
> So, I have to ask,
>
> 1. Is the schematic fairly accurate and trustworthy?
Probably yes. I quickly scanned a pdf file that I still have on this
computer of the schematic pages and I think they are the latest
version that was done. But I can't guarantee that and don't have the
time to do the detailed analysis required to assure you they are the
very latest and match what is on the 2n2-40 site.
>
> 2. Is there an errata sheet for changes to the design since the canonical schematic revision 02-01-2002" posted in the "2N240+ Schematics" folder
No.
>
> If I'm assured the schematics are basically "golden", I'll regenerate the BOM in an Excel spreadsheet for the benefit of all.
That would be nice for the next person who would like to build that
version of the rig.
In another email, you asked about a PC Board for the design. One was
created for the version of the rig kitted and sold by the NorCal QRP
group. Dan Tayloe, N7VE and I own that PCB design and it is not
available nor will it be in the future. I still support the NorCal
kits, but I decided a long time ago that I would not release the PCB
when I have no control on what parts are used on it. Most will
probably work, but some won't and I can't spend time trying to support
an unknown configuration. Occasionally a NorCal 2N2/XX kit shows up
on eBay or private sale. The kits were produced on 40, 30 and 20 meters.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
On 3/19/2012 9:03 PM, kb1uys wrote:
> I'm an experienced home-brewer but am somewhat confused about what documents in the Files area to use.
Lou,
Most of those files are quite old, greater than 10 years and have not
been updated by me or others.
>
> Can I just use K3PEG's excellent "EM_2n2_40+_Rev_4.pdf" pictorial together with the contents of folder "2N240+ Schematics"?
Yes, I believe that those two will match up, but may not be 100% one
to one, but very close.
Will all the components match up and I have the latest, greatest
version of the 2N2-40+?
Yes and no. The latest version of the 2N2/40+ was kitted by NorCal
and became the NorCal 2N2/XX rig. A total of 500 kits were done, 200
on 20 meters, 100 on 30 meters, and 200 on 40 meters. The NorCal web
page has the Assembly Manual for that version of the more mature design.
>
> For example, after only a brief scan, I don't see what wattage resistor is used by default.
1/4 watt.
>
> On another topic, are there any full PCB layouts that exist in the public domain
No, I own the PCB design and it isn't in the public domain, nor will
it ever be.
so I could either fabricate one myself or have Fred at Far Circuits
make one? NorCal seems to have done a board but I don't see the
artwork released anywhere.
The artwork is here in my lab and will stay here.
>
> I suggest a folder in the Files area called "Start Here!" that contains a single PDF file to quickly orientate a newcomer on how to mix and match the documents in the files area as well as other noob info.
That is a good idea, but I don't have time to do that. You are
welcome to provide that if you see fit.
72 and kind regards,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim -
Has it really been 14 years??? Doesn't seem like it was more than 2-3 years
ago.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
On 3/20/2012 5:18 PM, Jim Kortge wrote:
> On 3/20/2012 4:28 PM, kb1uys wrote:
>
> Lou,
>
> Before answering all of the issues you've brought up, you need to know
> that the 2N2-40 group was founded at the beginning of the design life
> of that rig, back in 1998. I didn't start the group; it was started
> by a ham who had decided to build my design as a means of sharing his
> progress. Almost immediately, others joined in as they had an
> interest in building the rig. As the designed matured, due to
> learning things and parts becoming obsolete, running changes were
> made, but there wasn't a great deal of effort put forth to make sure
> that all of the various documents fit together and portrayed a
> consistent picture of the design at a given point in time. The were
> at least 3 group builds organized and accomplished in the first
> several years of the design.
>
>> In the Group folder "2N240+ Schematics" the Bill of Material is so far out of sync with the schematic that the BOM should probably be removed until I can generate a new one from the schematic.
> Or a newer one added with the components shown on the schematics in
> that folder. I'm not sure the the old WinDraft schematic capture
> program still runs and will produce an accurate. Gotta remember, most
> of the documentation on the 2n2-40 site is approaching 14 years of age.
>
>> I checked only the Rx Local Oscillator section and found the following four discrepancies:
>>
>> 1. On schematic, C37 is 0.22uF; on BOM is 0.082uF
>> 2. On schematic, R15 is 470 ohm; on BOM is 560 ohm
>> 3. On schematic, L4 is 22uH; on BOM is 4.7uH
>> 4. On schematic, C19 is 47pf; on BOM is 220pF
> I'm not surprised by any of that.....
>> Of the 14 components in the Rx LO section, four disagree with the BOM. That's about 30%.
> Yes, see comments above. You are coming in very late to the 2N2-40
> activity and I and several others of the "experts" who worked with
> this rig have all moved on to other things.
>> The internal creation date of the BOM PDF is OCT-31-2001 vs. NOV-25-2003 for page #1 of the schematics.
>>
>> So, I have to ask,
>>
>> 1. Is the schematic fairly accurate and trustworthy?
> Probably yes. I quickly scanned a pdf file that I still have on this
> computer of the schematic pages and I think they are the latest
> version that was done. But I can't guarantee that and don't have the
> time to do the detailed analysis required to assure you they are the
> very latest and match what is on the 2n2-40 site.
>> 2. Is there an errata sheet for changes to the design since the canonical schematic revision 02-01-2002" posted in the "2N240+ Schematics" folder
> No.
>> If I'm assured the schematics are basically "golden", I'll regenerate the BOM in an Excel spreadsheet for the benefit of all.
> That would be nice for the next person who would like to build that
> version of the rig.
>
> In another email, you asked about a PC Board for the design. One was
> created for the version of the rig kitted and sold by the NorCal QRP
> group. Dan Tayloe, N7VE and I own that PCB design and it is not
> available nor will it be in the future. I still support the NorCal
> kits, but I decided a long time ago that I would not release the PCB
> when I have no control on what parts are used on it. Most will
> probably work, but some won't and I can't spend time trying to support
> an unknown configuration. Occasionally a NorCal 2N2/XX kit shows up
> on eBay or private sale. The kits were produced on 40, 30 and 20 meters.
>
> 72 and kind regards,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Indeed it is. I recall building two 2N2/40+ rigs (1999) a year after Jim presented his original design at Dayton 1998. It is heartens me to know that it still commands a following so many years later!
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
--- On Tue, 3/20/12, Lee Mairs (SAG) <lmairs@sagcorp.com> wrote:
From: Lee Mairs (SAG) <lmairs@sagcorp.com>
Subject: Re: [2n2-40] 2n2-40+ Schematic vs. Bill of Material Far Out of Sync
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, March 20, 2012, 5:45 PM
Jim -
Has it really been 14 years??? Doesn't seem like it was more than 2-3 years
ago.
73 de Lee
KM4YY/8
On 3/20/2012 5:18 PM, Jim Kortge wrote:
> On 3/20/2012 4:28 PM, kb1uys wrote:
>
> Lou,
>
> Before answering all of the issues you've brought up, you need to know
> that the 2N2-40 group was founded at the beginning of the design life
> of that rig, back in 1998. I didn't start the group; it was started
> by a ham who had decided to build my design as a means of sharing his
> progress. Almost immediately, others joined in as they had an
> interest in building the rig. As the designed matured, due to
> learning things and parts becoming obsolete, running changes were
> made, but there wasn't a great deal of effort put forth to make sure
> that all of the various documents fit together and portrayed a
> consistent picture of the design at a given point in time. The were
> at least 3 group builds organized and accomplished in the first
> several years of the design.
>
>> In the Group folder "2N240+ Schematics" the Bill of Material is so far out of sync with the schematic that the BOM should probably be removed until I can generate a new one from the schematic.
> Or a newer one added with the components shown on the schematics in
> that folder. I'm not sure the the old WinDraft schematic capture
> program still runs and will produce an accurate. Gotta remember, most
> of the documentation on the 2n2-40 site is approaching 14 years of age.
>
>> I checked only the Rx Local Oscillator section and found the following four discrepancies:
>>
>> 1. On schematic, C37 is 0.22uF; on BOM is 0.082uF
>> 2. On schematic, R15 is 470 ohm; on BOM is 560 ohm
>> 3. On schematic, L4 is 22uH; on BOM is 4.7uH
>> 4. On schematic, C19 is 47pf; on BOM is 220pF
> I'm not surprised by any of that.....
>> Of the 14 components in the Rx LO section, four disagree with the BOM. That's about 30%.
> Yes, see comments above. You are coming in very late to the 2N2-40
> activity and I and several others of the "experts" who worked with
> this rig have all moved on to other things.
>> The internal creation date of the BOM PDF is OCT-31-2001 vs. NOV-25-2003 for page #1 of the schematics.
>>
>> So, I have to ask,
>>
>> 1. Is the schematic fairly accurate and trustworthy?
> Probably yes. I quickly scanned a pdf file that I still have on this
> computer of the schematic pages and I think they are the latest
> version that was done. But I can't guarantee that and don't have the
> time to do the detailed analysis required to assure you they are the
> very latest and match what is on the 2n2-40 site.
>> 2. Is there an errata sheet for changes to the design since the canonical schematic revision 02-01-2002" posted in the "2N240+ Schematics" folder
> No.
>> If I'm assured the schematics are basically "golden", I'll regenerate the BOM in an Excel spreadsheet for the benefit of all.
> That would be nice for the next person who would like to build that
> version of the rig.
>
> In another email, you asked about a PC Board for the design. One was
> created for the version of the rig kitted and sold by the NorCal QRP
> group. Dan Tayloe, N7VE and I own that PCB design and it is not
> available nor will it be in the future. I still support the NorCal
> kits, but I decided a long time ago that I would not release the PCB
> when I have no control on what parts are used on it. Most will
> probably work, but some won't and I can't spend time trying to support
> an unknown configuration. Occasionally a NorCal 2N2/XX kit shows up
> on eBay or private sale. The kits were produced on 40, 30 and 20 meters.
>
> 72 and kind regards,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
So it looks as though the 2N2-40+ documentation could use a full consolidation
and verification in 2012. This would allow future generations of hams to enjoy
the 2N2-40+ by having a detailed, error-free set of construction documents.
In the Files area I've created a folder named "2012 Documentation Project". I'll
put the results of my work in there.
The basic 100% error-free documentation I'll need to verify or generate:
1. Schematic
2. Detailed Bill of Material
A full construction manual may be created, along with construction videos on
Youtube.
I'll build two 2N2-40+ units in parallel to verify the schematic and BOM. This
will shake out any documentation gaps.
Jim, can I get the latest 2N2-40+ WinDraft file from you? A buddy of mine back
in 2001 used WinDraft and WinBoard and I still have the software tucked away
somewhere. (He had me help him through all the bugs in WinBoard. IIRC, WinDraft
behaved fairly well.) I already have a Win98SE virtual machine running under
VirtualPC 2004 as I like to putter with old software. It will run WinDraft fine
and without complaint, I'm sure.
Is there coil and transformer winding data somewhere? This seems to be an aspect
that keeps a lot of novice builders from attempting a project. If I make a
detailed, illustrated winding guide, this should go a long way in making the
2N2-40+ an attractive build.
If anyone has un-posted data files or photos that they think would contribute to
the knowledge base for the 2N2-40+, please sling them in the "INCOMING" folder
inside my "2012 Documentation Project" folder.
Lou
|
4023|4022|2012-03-21 07:23:56|Fred Cull|Re: 2N2-40+ Documentation Project 2012|Good morning, all.
I hope this project gets off the ground. I've wanted to build a 2N2-40+ for quite some time, but the out-of-date material put me off.
This would make a great Elmer project to introduce the next generation of hams to the technical side of the hobby.
Best 72's de Houston.
Fred - WA5BUC
________________________________
From: kb1uys <
kb1uys@yahoo.com>
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 3:47 AM
Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2-40+ Documentation Project 2012
So it looks as though the 2N2-40+ documentation could use a full consolidation
and verification in 2012. This would allow future generations of hams to enjoy
the 2N2-40+ by having a detailed, error-free set of construction documents.
In the Files area I've created a folder named "2012 Documentation Project". I'll
put the results of my work in there.
The basic 100% error-free documentation I'll need to verify or generate:
1. Schematic
2. Detailed Bill of Material
A full construction manual may be created, along with construction videos on
Youtube.
I'll build two 2N2-40+ units in parallel to verify the schematic and BOM. This
will shake out any documentation gaps.
Jim, can I get the latest 2N2-40+ WinDraft file from you? A buddy of mine back
in 2001 used WinDraft and WinBoard and I still have the software tucked away
somewhere. (He had me help him through all the bugs in WinBoard. IIRC, WinDraft
behaved fairly well.) I already have a Win98SE virtual machine running under
VirtualPC 2004 as I like to putter with old software. It will run WinDraft fine
and without complaint, I'm sure.
Is there coil and transformer winding data somewhere? This seems to be an aspect
that keeps a lot of novice builders from attempting a project. If I make a
detailed, illustrated winding guide, this should go a long way in making the
2N2-40+ an attractive build.
If anyone has un-posted data files or photos that they think would contribute to
the knowledge base for the 2N2-40+, please sling them in the "INCOMING" folder
inside my "2012 Documentation Project" folder.
Lou
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>I hope this project gets off the ground.
It already has :) I saved the historical record of all 4020 2n2-40 Group messages last night to a single offline database file. I'll convert that database to the common mbox format so anyone with a freeware email client like Thunderbird can view, index and do in-depth searches of the group in the future. You never know when Yahoo could be bought out or shut down Groups like what happened to Geocities. (38 million personal website gone...Poof!)
References:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mbox http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeoCities The core BOM generation is next. That should take me about three evenings to extract from the schematic graphics and verify. I'll post it at that point.
The second phase of the BOM is component descriptions. This will take a significantly longer time but is vital for future reproducibility.
For example, instead of: 47pF
Why not give a builder: 47pF, disc, ceramic, X7R, 50 volts min, +/- 20%, radial leads, 0.100" lead pitch recommended
With the more detailed, unambiguous description a future builder can be assured of sourcing (or scrounging!) a component that will work in the design.
I work in the electronics assembly industry and typically verify 3 - 4 complex BOMs each week. All this "detail" stuff is nothing new to me.
--> A Reminder <--
If anyone has un-posted data files or photos that they think would contribute to the knowledge base for the 2N2-40+, please sling them in the "INCOMING" folder inside my "2012 Documentation Project" folder.
Lou
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Fred Cull wrote:
>
> Good morning, all.
>
>
> I hope this project gets off the ground. I've wanted to build a 2N2-40+ for quite some time, but the out-of-date material put me off.
>
>
> This would make a great Elmer project to introduce the next generation of hams to the technical side of the hobby.
>
>
> Best 72's de Houston.
>
>
> Fred - WA5BUC
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: kb1uys
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 3:47 AM
> Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2-40+ Documentation Project 2012
>
>
> Â
> So it looks as though the 2N2-40+ documentation could use a full consolidation
> and verification in 2012. This would allow future generations of hams to enjoy
> the 2N2-40+ by having a detailed, error-free set of construction documents.
>
> In the Files area I've created a folder named "2012 Documentation Project". I'll
> put the results of my work in there.
>
> The basic 100% error-free documentation I'll need to verify or generate:
>
> 1. Schematic
> 2. Detailed Bill of Material
>
> A full construction manual may be created, along with construction videos on
> Youtube.
>
> I'll build two 2N2-40+ units in parallel to verify the schematic and BOM. This
> will shake out any documentation gaps.
>
> Jim, can I get the latest 2N2-40+ WinDraft file from you? A buddy of mine back
> in 2001 used WinDraft and WinBoard and I still have the software tucked away
> somewhere. (He had me help him through all the bugs in WinBoard. IIRC, WinDraft
> behaved fairly well.) I already have a Win98SE virtual machine running under
> VirtualPC 2004 as I like to putter with old software. It will run WinDraft fine
> and without complaint, I'm sure.
>
> Is there coil and transformer winding data somewhere? This seems to be an aspect
> that keeps a lot of novice builders from attempting a project. If I make a
> detailed, illustrated winding guide, this should go a long way in making the
> 2N2-40+ an attractive build.
>
> If anyone has un-posted data files or photos that they think would contribute to
> the knowledge base for the 2N2-40+, please sling them in the "INCOMING" folder
> inside my "2012 Documentation Project" folder.
>
> Lou
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
On 3/20/2012 5:45 PM, Lee Mairs (SAG) wrote:
> Jim -
Hi Lee,
How is my old, dear friend?
> Has it really been 14 years???
Yes indeed. Actually a bit more. The 2N2/40 design was started in
1997, before I retired!
Doesn't seem like it was more than 2-3 years
> ago.
Must be we are still having fun! I know I am. Did you built one of
the SS-40 Receivers that Four State QRP is selling. Talk about a
quiet receiver. Puts the 2N2/40+ to shame, and as you know, that
receiver is quite good.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY/8
72 and be well my friend; hope to see you sometime soon,
Jim, K8IQY
PS...Hi to Howard, K2UD too. Only person other than me to build more
than one 2N2/40+. I have a photo of all of those 2N2 rigs lined up at
FDIM many years ago.
>
>
> On 3/20/2012 5:18 PM, Jim Kortge wrote:
>> On 3/20/2012 4:28 PM, kb1uys wrote:
>>
>> Lou,
>>
>> Before answering all of the issues you've brought up, you need to know
>> that the 2N2-40 group was founded at the beginning of the design life
>> of that rig, back in 1998. I didn't start the group; it was started
>> by a ham who had decided to build my design as a means of sharing his
>> progress. Almost immediately, others joined in as they had an
>> interest in building the rig. As the designed matured, due to
>> learning things and parts becoming obsolete, running changes were
>> made, but there wasn't a great deal of effort put forth to make sure
>> that all of the various documents fit together and portrayed a
>> consistent picture of the design at a given point in time. The were
>> at least 3 group builds organized and accomplished in the first
>> several years of the design.
>>
>>> In the Group folder "2N240+ Schematics" the Bill of Material is so far out of sync with the schematic that the BOM should probably be removed until I can generate a new one from the schematic.
>> Or a newer one added with the components shown on the schematics in
>> that folder. I'm not sure the the old WinDraft schematic capture
>> program still runs and will produce an accurate. Gotta remember, most
>> of the documentation on the 2n2-40 site is approaching 14 years of age.
>>
>>> I checked only the Rx Local Oscillator section and found the following four discrepancies:
>>>
>>> 1. On schematic, C37 is 0.22uF; on BOM is 0.082uF
>>> 2. On schematic, R15 is 470 ohm; on BOM is 560 ohm
>>> 3. On schematic, L4 is 22uH; on BOM is 4.7uH
>>> 4. On schematic, C19 is 47pf; on BOM is 220pF
>> I'm not surprised by any of that.....
>>> Of the 14 components in the Rx LO section, four disagree with the BOM. That's about 30%.
>> Yes, see comments above. You are coming in very late to the 2N2-40
>> activity and I and several others of the "experts" who worked with
>> this rig have all moved on to other things.
>>> The internal creation date of the BOM PDF is OCT-31-2001 vs. NOV-25-2003 for page #1 of the schematics.
>>>
>>> So, I have to ask,
>>>
>>> 1. Is the schematic fairly accurate and trustworthy?
>> Probably yes. I quickly scanned a pdf file that I still have on this
>> computer of the schematic pages and I think they are the latest
>> version that was done. But I can't guarantee that and don't have the
>> time to do the detailed analysis required to assure you they are the
>> very latest and match what is on the 2n2-40 site.
>>> 2. Is there an errata sheet for changes to the design since the canonical schematic revision 02-01-2002" posted in the "2N240+ Schematics" folder
>> No.
>>> If I'm assured the schematics are basically "golden", I'll regenerate the BOM in an Excel spreadsheet for the benefit of all.
>> That would be nice for the next person who would like to build that
>> version of the rig.
>>
>> In another email, you asked about a PC Board for the design. One was
>> created for the version of the rig kitted and sold by the NorCal QRP
>> group. Dan Tayloe, N7VE and I own that PCB design and it is not
>> available nor will it be in the future. I still support the NorCal
>> kits, but I decided a long time ago that I would not release the PCB
>> when I have no control on what parts are used on it. Most will
>> probably work, but some won't and I can't spend time trying to support
>> an unknown configuration. Occasionally a NorCal 2N2/XX kit shows up
>> on eBay or private sale. The kits were produced on 40, 30 and 20 meters.
>>
>> 72 and kind regards,
>>
>> Jim, K8IQY
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
All of this effort would be dearly appreciated. I downloaded
"everything" two years ago thinking it might someday disappear and since
I have a fondness for discrete component builds I wanted to be certain
it was available to me. I have an unfinished 40MMR that doesn't work
because the builds/BOM/Schematics do not match up, and I never got to
finding an Elmer to help me finish the third attempt. Seems you must buy
a kit to get a working MMR.
I won't build a 2n2-40 this year, maybe not next year, I have other
things taking 30+ weekends a year from my time. But I will build it, and
it will sit next to my Willamette 20M.
Thank you!
Dave
WB9VTB
--
"Posterity, you will never know how much it cost the present generation
to preserve your freedom. I hope you will make good use of it. If you do
not, I shall repent in heaven that ever I took half the pains to
preserve it."
John Adams
http://appleseedinfo.org -------- Original Message --------
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2N2-40+ Documentation Project 2012
From: "kb1uys" <
kb1uys@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, March 21, 2012 9:47 am
To:
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com >I hope this project gets off the ground.
It already has :) I saved the historical record of all 4020 2n2-40
Group messages last night to a single offline database file. I'll
convert that database to the common mbox format so anyone with a
freeware email client like Thunderbird can view, index and do in-depth
searches of the group in the future. You never know when Yahoo could be
bought out or shut down Groups like what happened to Geocities. (38
million personal website gone...Poof!)
References:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mbox http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeoCities The core BOM generation is next. That should take me about three
evenings to extract from the schematic graphics and verify. I'll post it
at that point.
The second phase of the BOM is component descriptions. This will take a
significantly longer time but is vital for future reproducibility.
For example, instead of: 47pF
Why not give a builder: 47pF, disc, ceramic, X7R, 50 volts min, +/-
20%, radial leads, 0.100" lead pitch recommended
With the more detailed, unambiguous description a future builder can be
assured of sourcing (or scrounging!) a component that will work in the
design.
I work in the electronics assembly industry and typically verify 3 - 4
complex BOMs each week. All this "detail" stuff is nothing new to me.
--> A Reminder <--
If anyone has un-posted data files or photos that they think would
contribute to the knowledge base for the 2N2-40+, please sling them in
the "INCOMING" folder inside my "2012 Documentation Project" folder.
Lou
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Fred Cull wrote:
>
> Good morning, all.
>
>
> I hope this project gets off the ground. I've wanted to build a
2N2-40+ for quite some time, but the out-of-date material put me off.
>
>
> This would make a great Elmer project to introduce the next
generation of hams to the technical side of the hobby.
>
>
> Best 72's de Houston.
>
>
> Fred - WA5BUC
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: kb1uys
> To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 3:47 AM
> Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2-40+ Documentation Project 2012
>
>
> Â
> So it looks as though the 2N2-40+ documentation could use a full
consolidation
> and verification in 2012. This would allow future generations of hams
to enjoy
> the 2N2-40+ by having a detailed, error-free set of construction
documents.
>
> In the Files area I've created a folder named "2012 Documentation
Project". I'll
> put the results of my work in there.
>
> The basic 100% error-free documentation I'll need to verify or
generate:
>
> 1. Schematic
> 2. Detailed Bill of Material
>
> A full construction manual may be created, along with construction
videos on
> Youtube.
>
> I'll build two 2N2-40+ units in parallel to verify the schematic and
BOM. This
> will shake out any documentation gaps.
>
> Jim, can I get the latest 2N2-40+ WinDraft file from you? A buddy of
mine back
> in 2001 used WinDraft and WinBoard and I still have the software
tucked away
> somewhere. (He had me help him through all the bugs in WinBoard.
IIRC, WinDraft
> behaved fairly well.) I already have a Win98SE virtual machine
running under
> VirtualPC 2004 as I like to putter with old software. It will run
WinDraft fine
> and without complaint, I'm sure.
>
> Is there coil and transformer winding data somewhere? This seems to
be an aspect
> that keeps a lot of novice builders from attempting a project. If I
make a
> detailed, illustrated winding guide, this should go a long way in
making the
> 2N2-40+ an attractive build.
>
> If anyone has un-posted data files or photos that they think would
contribute to
> the knowledge base for the 2N2-40+, please sling them in the
"INCOMING" folder
> inside my "2012 Documentation Project" folder.
>
> Lou
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Hello to the group. I have been away from homebrewing for quite a while due to travel and work commitments (work always seems to interfere with our hobby!).
In any event, I built a 2n2 40+ Manhatten style some time ago and put it aside when I could not resolve a front end receiver issue. The rig is complete and transmits fine with a solid clean 1.5 watts output.
Here is what I am encountering:
When I put an antenna at the antenna terminals, I do not get the expected static/noise from attaching the antenna. There is no change in static level. I would expect this level to change when connecting or disconnecting an antenna.
The receiver does receive as I hear low level cw signals throughout the band and am able to copy them. The problem is that the white background noise is at the same level as the receive signal. I would expect that the cw signal would be much stronger than the white noise. I am able to tune in a test signal from my station transceiver and adjust the receiver input filter using cap TC9 at the RX T/R switch as well as TC 1 and 2 (both show two peaks) at the receiver input filter. I also am not sure if I am getting a wide enough range using when using the Pot 5 at the T/R switch.
I have checked and rechecked the components/connections and torroids and cannot see any issues.
I realize that this is an old project but I hate not being able to figure out a problem and wanted to get the rig working properly before putting it in an enclosure and moving on to another homebrew project.
Any an all help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I do have access to a some test equipment including a scope.
Thank you in advance.
73
Serge
VA3SB
|
4029|4028|2012-04-17 12:54:28|Lee Mairs (SAG)|Re: 2n2 40+ Front End Issue|Serge -
When I built my 2N2-40+ I also had concerns that the receiver was deaf;
however, with a bit of comparison to my IC 781, I soon learned otherwise.
the receiver is just ultra quiet. As you tune across the band, signals seem
to jump out at you thru the pass band.
YMMV, however Jim Kortge inhabits this group and will soon provide an
answer. It is a great radio and marks on of the high points in my amateur
radio career.
Just hang in there. It will be fixed.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
On 4/17/2012 12:21 PM, serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> Hello to the group. I have been away from homebrewing for quite a while due to travel and work commitments (work always seems to interfere with our hobby!).
>
> In any event, I built a 2n2 40+ Manhatten style some time ago and put it aside when I could not resolve a front end receiver issue. The rig is complete and transmits fine with a solid clean 1.5 watts output.
>
> Here is what I am encountering:
>
> When I put an antenna at the antenna terminals, I do not get the expected static/noise from attaching the antenna. There is no change in static level. I would expect this level to change when connecting or disconnecting an antenna.
>
> The receiver does receive as I hear low level cw signals throughout the band and am able to copy them. The problem is that the white background noise is at the same level as the receive signal. I would expect that the cw signal would be much stronger than the white noise. I am able to tune in a test signal from my station transceiver and adjust the receiver input filter using cap TC9 at the RX T/R switch as well as TC 1 and 2 (both show two peaks) at the receiver input filter. I also am not sure if I am getting a wide enough range using when using the Pot 5 at the T/R switch.
>
> I have checked and rechecked the components/connections and torroids and cannot see any issues.
>
> I realize that this is an old project but I hate not being able to figure out a problem and wanted to get the rig working properly before putting it in an enclosure and moving on to another homebrew project.
>
> Any an all help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I do have access to a some test equipment including a scope.
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> 73
>
> Serge
> VA3SB
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Hi Lee, thank you for your email and words of encouragement.
The issue is that I am only hearing very strong signals. There are many signals that I can hear on my FT5K that the unit does not hear. As I mentioned, the white noise is stronger than the actual signal. I would expect that the cw signal would be much higher than the background receiver noise.
I am sure that Jim will chime in when he gets the chance.
Thanks again.
73
Serge
VA3SB
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "Lee Mairs (SAG)" wrote:
>
> Serge -
> When I built my 2N2-40+ I also had concerns that the receiver was deaf;
> however, with a bit of comparison to my IC 781, I soon learned otherwise.
> the receiver is just ultra quiet. As you tune across the band, signals seem
> to jump out at you thru the pass band.
>
> YMMV, however Jim Kortge inhabits this group and will soon provide an
> answer. It is a great radio and marks on of the high points in my amateur
> radio career.
> Just hang in there. It will be fixed.
> 73 de Lee
> KM4YY
>
>
> On 4/17/2012 12:21 PM, serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> > Hello to the group. I have been away from homebrewing for quite a while due to travel and work commitments (work always seems to interfere with our hobby!).
> >
> > In any event, I built a 2n2 40+ Manhatten style some time ago and put it aside when I could not resolve a front end receiver issue. The rig is complete and transmits fine with a solid clean 1.5 watts output.
> >
> > Here is what I am encountering:
> >
> > When I put an antenna at the antenna terminals, I do not get the expected static/noise from attaching the antenna. There is no change in static level. I would expect this level to change when connecting or disconnecting an antenna.
> >
> > The receiver does receive as I hear low level cw signals throughout the band and am able to copy them. The problem is that the white background noise is at the same level as the receive signal. I would expect that the cw signal would be much stronger than the white noise. I am able to tune in a test signal from my station transceiver and adjust the receiver input filter using cap TC9 at the RX T/R switch as well as TC 1 and 2 (both show two peaks) at the receiver input filter. I also am not sure if I am getting a wide enough range using when using the Pot 5 at the T/R switch.
> >
> > I have checked and rechecked the components/connections and torroids and cannot see any issues.
> >
> > I realize that this is an old project but I hate not being able to figure out a problem and wanted to get the rig working properly before putting it in an enclosure and moving on to another homebrew project.
> >
> > Any an all help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I do have access to a some test equipment including a scope.
> >
> > Thank you in advance.
> >
> > 73
> >
> > Serge
> > VA3SB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Hello Group,
I am starting a 2N2-40 build and have just joined this group. I just
scanned thru the files and a few emails and this looks like the right place
for me. Of course with Jim here that should be obvious!
A little of my background. I was first licensed in 1978 at the age of 16 as
KA8DRS. My current callsign belonged to my High school electronics teacher
and Elmer, Joe Elliott. Currently I am an Extra and I am rebuilding my code
proficiency. I am an Electronics and Equipment tech by trade (30years), and
specialize in Hemodialysis (Kidney Failure) equipment. I have an AS in
electronics from 1982. A lot has changed in those 30 years but not my
desire to build and/or fix things. I have dabbled in QRP over my ham
career. Now I am making it a focus. My HF gear at this time is an Icom
IC-751A and the antenna is a G5RV Jr. My home is in town on a 1/4 acre lot
so antennas are a challenge.
Anyway I have some parts put together already. I plan on looking for the
harder to find things at Dayton in a few weeks. Any suggestions on what is
harder to find? My schedule for the build will not be full speed ahead. I
am looking to do this right and make it presentable as well as functional.
I would hope to have it completed before QRP contest season in the fall. I
also plan on posting frequent updates on my blog, listed below. I have
already mentioned the build in my most recent post. I have also posted it
to the QRP-L email group. That is where I procured the parts and info on
this group. I am excited and ready to get started.
I will be at Four Days in May for the seminar and Buildathon. My group of
friends has a block of spaces in the Flea Market at Dayton. If you are
going to be in Dayton let me know. It would be nice to meet some of you and
maybe talk shop.
Thanks for the time.
Ron
W8VZM Springfield, OH
www.w8vzm.com
NAQCC #5695
QRPARCI #12832
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
4032|4028|2012-04-22 15:37:10|serge_bertuzzo|2N2 40+ Front End Issue - Resolved :-)|Hello to the group.
I'm happy to report that I resolved the receiver front end problem that I was experiencing with my 2N2 40+ transceiver. It turns out that I had incorrectly wired one of the T6 connections in the RF AMP circuit. DUH! I don't know how many times I went throught the circuit and missed the connection each time. I feel rather silly, BUT I did find the problem.
After correcting the wiring error, the receiver sprang to life and I was able to copy signals of varying stregth througout the band. I went on to make 60 qso's during the Michigan and Ontario QSO party contests yesterday afternoon / evening with my mighty 2 watts. Lots of fun.
Now on to finish the transmitter section of my 2N2 30 transciever.
73
Serge
VA3SB
|
4033|4028|2012-04-23 13:58:28|Lee Mairs (SAG)|Re: 2N2 40+ Front End Issue - Resolved :-)|Congrats Serge! I doubt that you are alone in this wiring problem. I know
that it took me several tries before I got it right. Enjoy your radio. I
mark building my 2N2-40 as one of the high water marks in my amateur career.
73 de Lee
KM4YY
On 4/22/2012 3:36 PM, serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> Hello to the group.
>
> I'm happy to report that I resolved the receiver front end problem that I was experiencing with my 2N2 40+ transceiver. It turns out that I had incorrectly wired one of the T6 connections in the RF AMP circuit. DUH! I don't know how many times I went throught the circuit and missed the connection each time. I feel rather silly, BUT I did find the problem.
>
> After correcting the wiring error, the receiver sprang to life and I was able to copy signals of varying stregth througout the band. I went on to make 60 qso's during the Michigan and Ontario QSO party contests yesterday afternoon / evening with my mighty 2 watts. Lots of fun.
>
> Now on to finish the transmitter section of my 2N2 30 transciever.
>
> 73
>
> Serge
> VA3SB
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Hello to the group.
I'm enjoying my 2n2 40+ now that I have it working as it should and have it on in the back ground while working in the shack.
I have a question regarding the variable filter. I went through the rig and took voltage measurements to compare them to the measurements indicated in the schematic. When I got to the crystal filter, instead of measuring 2V and 4 V I measured .7 V and 1.4 volts respectively. I actually do not see much of a change when I vary POT 2.
I checked (very carefully :- ) ) the circuit and have it wired up correctly. Not sure what would throw the voltage measurements off so much and perhaps this is why varying the pot doesn't make that much difference.
I'd appreciate any suggestions or views.
Thank you in advance.
72
Serge
VA3SB
|
4035|4034|2012-04-24 20:34:49|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2 40+ Variable Crystal Filter|On 4/24/2012 2:52 PM, serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> Hello to the group.
>
> I'm enjoying my 2n2 40+ now that I have it working as it should and have it on in the back ground while working in the shack.
>
> I have a question regarding the variable filter. I went through the rig and took voltage measurements to compare them to the measurements indicated in the schematic. When I got to the crystal filter, instead of measuring 2V and 4 V I measured .7 V and 1.4 volts respectively.
That doesn't sound right at all.
I actually do not see much of a change when I vary POT 2.
You should if everything is OK.
>
> I checked (very carefully :- ) ) the circuit and have it wired up correctly.
Are the varicap diode installed with the cathodes to the variable
voltage and the anodes grounded. They run with reverse bias, so
essentially do not draw any current from the control circuitry.
Not sure what would throw the voltage measurements off so much and
perhaps this is why varying the pot doesn't make that much difference.
Varying the pot should make a substantial difference in perceived and
actual bandwidth. Wide is about 800 Hz and narrow is around 230 Hz or
something like that.
>
> I'd appreciate any suggestions or views.
See above......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Hi Jim. Thank you for your feedback. I'm just about to take a closer at the circuit again. I'll keep you posted.
72
Serge
VA3SB
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> On 4/24/2012 2:52 PM, serge_bertuzzo wrote:
> > Hello to the group.
> >
> > I'm enjoying my 2n2 40+ now that I have it working as it should and have it on in the back ground while working in the shack.
> >
> > I have a question regarding the variable filter. I went through the rig and took voltage measurements to compare them to the measurements indicated in the schematic. When I got to the crystal filter, instead of measuring 2V and 4 V I measured .7 V and 1.4 volts respectively.
>
> That doesn't sound right at all.
>
> I actually do not see much of a change when I vary POT 2.
>
> You should if everything is OK.
> >
> > I checked (very carefully :- ) ) the circuit and have it wired up correctly.
>
> Are the varicap diode installed with the cathodes to the variable
> voltage and the anodes grounded. They run with reverse bias, so
> essentially do not draw any current from the control circuitry.
>
> Not sure what would throw the voltage measurements off so much and
> perhaps this is why varying the pot doesn't make that much difference.
>
> Varying the pot should make a substantial difference in perceived and
> actual bandwidth. Wide is about 800 Hz and narrow is around 230 Hz or
> something like that.
>
> >
> > I'd appreciate any suggestions or views.
>
> See above......
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
Hi Gang,
Does anyone know if this endeavor has begun? I looked in the files section of this group but the "2012 Documentation Project" file seems to be empty.
Also - I placed (what I think was) a pretty comprehensive order from Mouser of the parts I needed to begin (which was pretty much everything excpet the resistors). I'd be happy to share the order info with anyone who is thinking of starting the project. I think there is a way to make it accessible on Mouser or I can scan you a copy of their shipping statement - no promises that it's accurate or complete, though.
(so now I have the parts and have no excuse to stall any longer!! Hi)
Thanks
Tom WB2QDG
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "kb1uys" wrote:
>
> >I hope this project gets off the ground.
>
> It already has :) I saved the historical record of all 4020 2n2-40 Group messages last night to a single offline database file. I'll convert that database to the common mbox format so anyone with a freeware email client like Thunderbird can view, index and do in-depth searches of the group in the future. You never know when Yahoo could be bought out or shut down Groups like what happened to Geocities. (38 million personal website gone...Poof!)
>
> References:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mbox
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeoCities
>
> The core BOM generation is next. That should take me about three evenings to extract from the schematic graphics and verify. I'll post it at that point.
>
> The second phase of the BOM is component descriptions. This will take a significantly longer time but is vital for future reproducibility.
>
> For example, instead of: 47pF
>
> Why not give a builder: 47pF, disc, ceramic, X7R, 50 volts min, +/- 20%, radial leads, 0.100" lead pitch recommended
>
> With the more detailed, unambiguous description a future builder can be assured of sourcing (or scrounging!) a component that will work in the design.
>
> I work in the electronics assembly industry and typically verify 3 - 4 complex BOMs each week. All this "detail" stuff is nothing new to me.
>
> --> A Reminder <--
> If anyone has un-posted data files or photos that they think would contribute to the knowledge base for the 2N2-40+, please sling them in the "INCOMING" folder inside my "2012 Documentation Project" folder.
>
> Lou
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Fred Cull wrote:
> >
> > Good morning, all.
> >
> >
> > I hope this project gets off the ground. I've wanted to build a 2N2-40+ for quite some time, but the out-of-date material put me off.
> >
> >
> > This would make a great Elmer project to introduce the next generation of hams to the technical side of the hobby.
> >
> >
> > Best 72's de Houston.
> >
> >
> > Fred - WA5BUC
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: kb1uys
> > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 3:47 AM
> > Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2-40+ Documentation Project 2012
> >
> >
> > Â
> > So it looks as though the 2N2-40+ documentation could use a full consolidation
> > and verification in 2012. This would allow future generations of hams to enjoy
> > the 2N2-40+ by having a detailed, error-free set of construction documents.
> >
> > In the Files area I've created a folder named "2012 Documentation Project". I'll
> > put the results of my work in there.
> >
> > The basic 100% error-free documentation I'll need to verify or generate:
> >
> > 1. Schematic
> > 2. Detailed Bill of Material
> >
> > A full construction manual may be created, along with construction videos on
> > Youtube.
> >
> > I'll build two 2N2-40+ units in parallel to verify the schematic and BOM. This
> > will shake out any documentation gaps.
> >
> > Jim, can I get the latest 2N2-40+ WinDraft file from you? A buddy of mine back
> > in 2001 used WinDraft and WinBoard and I still have the software tucked away
> > somewhere. (He had me help him through all the bugs in WinBoard. IIRC, WinDraft
> > behaved fairly well.) I already have a Win98SE virtual machine running under
> > VirtualPC 2004 as I like to putter with old software. It will run WinDraft fine
> > and without complaint, I'm sure.
> >
> > Is there coil and transformer winding data somewhere? This seems to be an aspect
> > that keeps a lot of novice builders from attempting a project. If I make a
> > detailed, illustrated winding guide, this should go a long way in making the
> > 2N2-40+ an attractive build.
> >
> > If anyone has un-posted data files or photos that they think would contribute to
> > the knowledge base for the 2N2-40+, please sling them in the "INCOMING" folder
> > inside my "2012 Documentation Project" folder.
> >
> > Lou
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Tom,
I am starting a build after Dayton. I also looked in the project file and
found it blank. I will be posting my progress in my blog below. Already
mentioned it in two posts. Keep us posted on your progress.
Ron
W8VZM Springfield, OH
www.w8vzm.com
NAQCC #5695
QRPARCI #12832
On Thu, May 10, 2012 at 8:13 PM, redmen1969 <redmen1969@yahoo.com> wrote:
> **
>
>
> Hi Gang,
> Does anyone know if this endeavor has begun? I looked in the files section
> of this group but the "2012 Documentation Project" file seems to be empty.
>
> Also - I placed (what I think was) a pretty comprehensive order from
> Mouser of the parts I needed to begin (which was pretty much everything
> excpet the resistors). I'd be happy to share the order info with anyone who
> is thinking of starting the project. I think there is a way to make it
> accessible on Mouser or I can scan you a copy of their shipping statement -
> no promises that it's accurate or complete, though.
>
> (so now I have the parts and have no excuse to stall any longer!! Hi)
>
> Thanks
> Tom WB2QDG
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "kb1uys" wrote:
> >
> > >I hope this project gets off the ground.
> >
> > It already has :) I saved the historical record of all 4020 2n2-40 Group
> messages last night to a single offline database file. I'll convert that
> database to the common mbox format so anyone with a freeware email client
> like Thunderbird can view, index and do in-depth searches of the group in
> the future. You never know when Yahoo could be bought out or shut down
> Groups like what happened to Geocities. (38 million personal website
> gone...Poof!)
> >
> > References:
> > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mbox
> > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeoCities
> >
> > The core BOM generation is next. That should take me about three
> evenings to extract from the schematic graphics and verify. I'll post it at
> that point.
> >
> > The second phase of the BOM is component descriptions. This will take a
> significantly longer time but is vital for future reproducibility.
> >
> > For example, instead of: 47pF
> >
> > Why not give a builder: 47pF, disc, ceramic, X7R, 50 volts min, +/- 20%,
> radial leads, 0.100" lead pitch recommended
> >
> > With the more detailed, unambiguous description a future builder can be
> assured of sourcing (or scrounging!) a component that will work in the
> design.
> >
> > I work in the electronics assembly industry and typically verify 3 - 4
> complex BOMs each week. All this "detail" stuff is nothing new to me.
> >
> > --> A Reminder <--
> > If anyone has un-posted data files or photos that they think would
> contribute to the knowledge base for the 2N2-40+, please sling them in the
> "INCOMING" folder inside my "2012 Documentation Project" folder.
> >
> > Lou
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Fred Cull wrote:
> > >
> > > Good morning, all.
> > >
> > >
> > > I hope this project gets off the ground. I've wanted to build a
> 2N2-40+ for quite some time, but the out-of-date material put me off.
> > >
> > >
> > > This would make a great Elmer project to introduce the next generation
> of hams to the technical side of the hobby.
> > >
> > >
> > > Best 72's de Houston.
> > >
> > >
> > > Fred - WA5BUC
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: kb1uys
> > > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 3:47 AM
> > > Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2-40+ Documentation Project 2012
> > >
> > >
> > > �
> > > So it looks as though the 2N2-40+ documentation could use a full
> consolidation
> > > and verification in 2012. This would allow future generations of hams
> to enjoy
> > > the 2N2-40+ by having a detailed, error-free set of construction
> documents.
> > >
> > > In the Files area I've created a folder named "2012 Documentation
> Project". I'll
> > > put the results of my work in there.
> > >
> > > The basic 100% error-free documentation I'll need to verify or
> generate:
> > >
> > > 1. Schematic
> > > 2. Detailed Bill of Material
> > >
> > > A full construction manual may be created, along with construction
> videos on
> > > Youtube.
> > >
> > > I'll build two 2N2-40+ units in parallel to verify the schematic and
> BOM. This
> > > will shake out any documentation gaps.
> > >
> > > Jim, can I get the latest 2N2-40+ WinDraft file from you? A buddy of
> mine back
> > > in 2001 used WinDraft and WinBoard and I still have the software
> tucked away
> > > somewhere. (He had me help him through all the bugs in WinBoard. IIRC,
> WinDraft
> > > behaved fairly well.) I already have a Win98SE virtual machine running
> under
> > > VirtualPC 2004 as I like to putter with old software. It will run
> WinDraft fine
> > > and without complaint, I'm sure.
> > >
> > > Is there coil and transformer winding data somewhere? This seems to be
> an aspect
> > > that keeps a lot of novice builders from attempting a project. If I
> make a
> > > detailed, illustrated winding guide, this should go a long way in
> making the
> > > 2N2-40+ an attractive build.
> > >
> > > If anyone has un-posted data files or photos that they think would
> contribute to
> > > the knowledge base for the 2N2-40+, please sling them in the
> "INCOMING" folder
> > > inside my "2012 Documentation Project" folder.
> > >
> > > Lou
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm still here and working on it. Two other small projects popped up and got in the way but they're done now.
--- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Ron Bowman wrote:
>
> Tom,
> I am starting a build after Dayton. I also looked in the project file and
> found it blank. I will be posting my progress in my blog below. Already
> mentioned it in two posts. Keep us posted on your progress.
>
> Ron
> W8VZM Springfield, OH
> www.w8vzm.com
> NAQCC #5695
> QRPARCI #12832
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 10, 2012 at 8:13 PM, redmen1969 wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Hi Gang,
> > Does anyone know if this endeavor has begun? I looked in the files section
> > of this group but the "2012 Documentation Project" file seems to be empty.
> >
> > Also - I placed (what I think was) a pretty comprehensive order from
> > Mouser of the parts I needed to begin (which was pretty much everything
> > excpet the resistors). I'd be happy to share the order info with anyone who
> > is thinking of starting the project. I think there is a way to make it
> > accessible on Mouser or I can scan you a copy of their shipping statement -
> > no promises that it's accurate or complete, though.
> >
> > (so now I have the parts and have no excuse to stall any longer!! Hi)
> >
> > Thanks
> > Tom WB2QDG
> >
> > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "kb1uys" wrote:
> > >
> > > >I hope this project gets off the ground.
> > >
> > > It already has :) I saved the historical record of all 4020 2n2-40 Group
> > messages last night to a single offline database file. I'll convert that
> > database to the common mbox format so anyone with a freeware email client
> > like Thunderbird can view, index and do in-depth searches of the group in
> > the future. You never know when Yahoo could be bought out or shut down
> > Groups like what happened to Geocities. (38 million personal website
> > gone...Poof!)
> > >
> > > References:
> > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mbox
> > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeoCities
> > >
> > > The core BOM generation is next. That should take me about three
> > evenings to extract from the schematic graphics and verify. I'll post it at
> > that point.
> > >
> > > The second phase of the BOM is component descriptions. This will take a
> > significantly longer time but is vital for future reproducibility.
> > >
> > > For example, instead of: 47pF
> > >
> > > Why not give a builder: 47pF, disc, ceramic, X7R, 50 volts min, +/- 20%,
> > radial leads, 0.100" lead pitch recommended
> > >
> > > With the more detailed, unambiguous description a future builder can be
> > assured of sourcing (or scrounging!) a component that will work in the
> > design.
> > >
> > > I work in the electronics assembly industry and typically verify 3 - 4
> > complex BOMs each week. All this "detail" stuff is nothing new to me.
> > >
> > > --> A Reminder <--
> > > If anyone has un-posted data files or photos that they think would
> > contribute to the knowledge base for the 2N2-40+, please sling them in the
> > "INCOMING" folder inside my "2012 Documentation Project" folder.
> > >
> > > Lou
> > >
> > > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Fred Cull wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Good morning, all.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I hope this project gets off the ground. I've wanted to build a
> > 2N2-40+ for quite some time, but the out-of-date material put me off.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > This would make a great Elmer project to introduce the next generation
> > of hams to the technical side of the hobby.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Best 72's de Houston.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Fred - WA5BUC
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: kb1uys
> > > > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 3:47 AM
> > > > Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2-40+ Documentation Project 2012
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Â
> > > > So it looks as though the 2N2-40+ documentation could use a full
> > consolidation
> > > > and verification in 2012. This would allow future generations of hams
> > to enjoy
> > > > the 2N2-40+ by having a detailed, error-free set of construction
> > documents.
> > > >
> > > > In the Files area I've created a folder named "2012 Documentation
> > Project". I'll
> > > > put the results of my work in there.
> > > >
> > > > The basic 100% error-free documentation I'll need to verify or
> > generate:
> > > >
> > > > 1. Schematic
> > > > 2. Detailed Bill of Material
> > > >
> > > > A full construction manual may be created, along with construction
> > videos on
> > > > Youtube.
> > > >
> > > > I'll build two 2N2-40+ units in parallel to verify the schematic and
> > BOM. This
> > > > will shake out any documentation gaps.
> > > >
> > > > Jim, can I get the latest 2N2-40+ WinDraft file from you? A buddy of
> > mine back
> > > > in 2001 used WinDraft and WinBoard and I still have the software
> > tucked away
> > > > somewhere. (He had me help him through all the bugs in WinBoard. IIRC,
> > WinDraft
> > > > behaved fairly well.) I already have a Win98SE virtual machine running
> > under
> > > > VirtualPC 2004 as I like to putter with old software. It will run
> > WinDraft fine
> > > > and without complaint, I'm sure.
> > > >
> > > > Is there coil and transformer winding data somewhere? This seems to be
> > an aspect
> > > > that keeps a lot of novice builders from attempting a project. If I
> > make a
> > > > detailed, illustrated winding guide, this should go a long way in
> > making the
> > > > 2N2-40+ an attractive build.
> > > >
> > > > If anyone has un-posted data files or photos that they think would
> > contribute to
> > > > the knowledge base for the 2N2-40+, please sling them in the
> > "INCOMING" folder
> > > > inside my "2012 Documentation Project" folder.
> > > >
> > > > Lou
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
That's Excellent! I am trying to keep all my documentation together. I will
offer up anything you don't have.
Ron
W8VZM Springfield, OH
www.w8vzm.com
NAQCC #5695
QRPARCI #12832
On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 1:14 AM, kb1uys <kb1uys@yahoo.com> wrote:
> **
>
>
> I'm still here and working on it. Two other small projects popped up and
> got in the way but they're done now.
>
>
> --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Ron Bowman wrote:
> >
> > Tom,
> > I am starting a build after Dayton. I also looked in the project file and
> > found it blank. I will be posting my progress in my blog below. Already
> > mentioned it in two posts. Keep us posted on your progress.
> >
> > Ron
> > W8VZM Springfield, OH
> > www.w8vzm.com
> > NAQCC #5695
> > QRPARCI #12832
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thu, May 10, 2012 at 8:13 PM, redmen1969 wrote:
> >
> > > **
>
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Gang,
> > > Does anyone know if this endeavor has begun? I looked in the files
> section
> > > of this group but the "2012 Documentation Project" file seems to be
> empty.
> > >
> > > Also - I placed (what I think was) a pretty comprehensive order from
> > > Mouser of the parts I needed to begin (which was pretty much everything
> > > excpet the resistors). I'd be happy to share the order info with
> anyone who
> > > is thinking of starting the project. I think there is a way to make it
> > > accessible on Mouser or I can scan you a copy of their shipping
> statement -
> > > no promises that it's accurate or complete, though.
> > >
> > > (so now I have the parts and have no excuse to stall any longer!! Hi)
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Tom WB2QDG
> > >
> > > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, "kb1uys" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >I hope this project gets off the ground.
> > > >
> > > > It already has :) I saved the historical record of all 4020 2n2-40
> Group
> > > messages last night to a single offline database file. I'll convert
> that
> > > database to the common mbox format so anyone with a freeware email
> client
> > > like Thunderbird can view, index and do in-depth searches of the group
> in
> > > the future. You never know when Yahoo could be bought out or shut down
> > > Groups like what happened to Geocities. (38 million personal website
> > > gone...Poof!)
> > > >
> > > > References:
> > > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mbox
> > > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeoCities
> > > >
> > > > The core BOM generation is next. That should take me about three
> > > evenings to extract from the schematic graphics and verify. I'll post
> it at
> > > that point.
> > > >
> > > > The second phase of the BOM is component descriptions. This will
> take a
> > > significantly longer time but is vital for future reproducibility.
> > > >
> > > > For example, instead of: 47pF
> > > >
> > > > Why not give a builder: 47pF, disc, ceramic, X7R, 50 volts min, +/-
> 20%,
> > > radial leads, 0.100" lead pitch recommended
> > > >
> > > > With the more detailed, unambiguous description a future builder can
> be
> > > assured of sourcing (or scrounging!) a component that will work in the
> > > design.
> > > >
> > > > I work in the electronics assembly industry and typically verify 3 -
> 4
> > > complex BOMs each week. All this "detail" stuff is nothing new to me.
> > > >
> > > > --> A Reminder <--
> > > > If anyone has un-posted data files or photos that they think would
> > > contribute to the knowledge base for the 2N2-40+, please sling them in
> the
> > > "INCOMING" folder inside my "2012 Documentation Project" folder.
> > > >
> > > > Lou
> > > >
> > > > --- In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, Fred Cull wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Good morning, all.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I hope this project gets off the ground. I've wanted to build a
> > > 2N2-40+ for quite some time, but the out-of-date material put me off.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > This would make a great Elmer project to introduce the next
> generation
> > > of hams to the technical side of the hobby.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Best 72's de Houston.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Fred - WA5BUC
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > From: kb1uys
> > > > > To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 3:47 AM
> > > > > Subject: [2n2-40] 2N2-40+ Documentation Project 2012
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > �
> > > > > So it looks as though the 2N2-40+ documentation could use a full
> > > consolidation
> > > > > and verification in 2012. This would allow future generations of
> hams
> > > to enjoy
> > > > > the 2N2-40+ by having a detailed, error-free set of construction
> > > documents.
> > > > >
> > > > > In the Files area I've created a folder named "2012 Documentation
> > > Project". I'll
> > > > > put the results of my work in there.
> > > > >
> > > > > The basic 100% error-free documentation I'll need to verify or
> > > generate:
> > > > >
> > > > > 1. Schematic
> > > > > 2. Detailed Bill of Material
> > > > >
> > > > > A full construction manual may be created, along with construction
> > > videos on
> > > > > Youtube.
> > > > >
> > > > > I'll build two 2N2-40+ units in parallel to verify the schematic
> and
> > > BOM. This
> > > > > will shake out any documentation gaps.
> > > > >
> > > > > Jim, can I get the latest 2N2-40+ WinDraft file from you? A buddy
> of
> > > mine back
> > > > > in 2001 used WinDraft and WinBoard and I still have the software
> > > tucked away
> > > > > somewhere. (He had me help him through all the bugs in WinBoard.
> IIRC,
> > > WinDraft
> > > > > behaved fairly well.) I already have a Win98SE virtual machine
> running
> > > under
> > > > > VirtualPC 2004 as I like to putter with old software. It will run
> > > WinDraft fine
> > > > > and without complaint, I'm sure.
> > > > >
> > > > > Is there coil and transformer winding data somewhere? This seems
> to be
> > > an aspect
> > > > > that keeps a lot of novice builders from attempting a project. If I
> > > make a
> > > > > detailed, illustrated winding guide, this should go a long way in
> > > making the
> > > > > 2N2-40+ an attractive build.
> > > > >
> > > > > If anyone has un-posted data files or photos that they think would
> > > contribute to
> > > > > the knowledge base for the 2N2-40+, please sling them in the
> > > "INCOMING" folder
> > > > > inside my "2012 Documentation Project" folder.
> > > > >
> > > > > Lou
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ok guys I am about ready to start the build. I got a lot of parts at Dayton and have obtained more from other sources. Anyway, this is the build order I plan to use. If I should do it differently please let me know.
1. RX/TX Driver
2. VFO
3. DBM Circuit (Using DBM Chip)
4. Mixer Amp/IF filter
5. IF Amp, Prod Detector, Rx LO
6. Rx mute/Audio
7. Tx Finals/Output Filter
8. RF Amp, SB mixer, Tx LO
The PC Board is ready. I may be able to get started tomorrow.
Ron
W8VZM Springfield, OH
See my Radio Blog at www.w8vzm.com
NAQCC #5695
QRPARCI #12832
|
4042|4041|2012-06-06 21:10:21|Howard Kraus|Re: Build Order|Good luck. There are a lot of folks who, I'm sure, will be willing to help you if you run into difficulties (myself included). The 2N2/40 is one fine operating radio-you will be impressed!
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
(I built two 2N2/40+s)
--- On Wed, 6/6/12, w8vzm <w8vzmron@gmail.com> wrote:
From: w8vzm <w8vzmron@gmail.com>
Subject: [2n2-40] Build Order
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, June 6, 2012, 6:58 PM
Ok guys I am about ready to start the build. I got a lot of parts at Dayton and have obtained more from other sources. Anyway, this is the build order I plan to use. If I should do it differently please let me know.
1. RX/TX Driver
2. VFO
3. DBM Circuit (Using DBM Chip)
4. Mixer Amp/IF filter
5. IF Amp, Prod Detector, Rx LO
6. Rx mute/Audio
7. Tx Finals/Output Filter
8. RF Amp, SB mixer, Tx LO
The PC Board is ready. I may be able to get started tomorrow.
Ron
W8VZM Springfield, OH
See my Radio Blog at www.w8vzm.com
NAQCC #5695
QRPARCI #12832
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I didn't know a PC board was available...do you mean a "Manhattan" silk screened board without any holes?
D.K. KD6TK
---In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Ok guys I am about ready to start the build. I got a lot of parts at Dayton and have obtained more from other sources. Anyway, this is the build order I plan to use. If I should do it differently please let me know.
1. RX/TX Driver
2. VFO
3. DBM Circuit (Using DBM Chip)
4. Mixer Amp/IF filter
5. IF Amp, Prod Detector, Rx LO
6. Rx mute/Audio
7. Tx Finals/Output Filter
8. RF Amp, SB mixer, Tx LO
The PC Board is ready. I may be able to get started tomorrow.
Ron
W8VZM Springfield, OH
See my Radio Blog at www.w8vzm.com
NAQCC #5695
QRPARCI #12832
On 10/3/2013 8:45 PM,
donald_philbin@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>
> I didn't know a PC board was available...do you mean a "Manhattan" silk screened
> board without any holes?
>
> D.K. KD6TK
>
>
>
> ---In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> Ok guys I am about ready to start the build. I got a lot of parts at Dayton and
> have obtained more from other sources. Anyway, this is the build order I plan to
> use. If I should do it differently please let me know.
>
> 1. RX/TX Driver
> 2. VFO
> 3. DBM Circuit (Using DBM Chip)
> 4. Mixer Amp/IF filter
> 5. IF Amp, Prod Detector, Rx LO
> 6. Rx mute/Audio
> 7. Tx Finals/Output Filter
> 8. RF Amp, SB mixer, Tx LO
>
> The PC Board is ready. I may be able to get started tomorrow.
>
> Ron
> W8VZM Springfield, OH
> See my Radio Blog at www.w8vzm.com
> NAQCC #5695
> QRPARCI #12832
>
Ron,
I think I would reverse the built order of 3 through 6, so that you
can test each stage as you go with the simplest test equipment. If I
remember correctly, that is how the 2N2/XX build order goes.
72 and GL,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks for the info Jim. I will do that. My build has been extremely delayed. hihi.
D.K. My comment about the board being ready is that I purchased the blank, cut it to size and marked the location of the pads for the circuits from a template that is available. If you will look at my blog page listed below I have a picture of the islands that I am using.
I hope to get started on my build soon.
Ron-I read your post on the group site and am interested in your build. I purchased a partially built 2N2-40 back in April. The fellow who started it, couldn't finish it. I purchased it (which is about 1/4 assembled) along with parts he had gathered and documentation in the form of the Winter '98 QRPp build manual. I've read close to 1000 of the posts on this site starting at the very beginning, to try to get up to speed on how the first group build progressed. What a time capsule that is-lots of history there. Read some of the posts from after Sept. 11, 2001. Anyhow, I'm interested in joining in with you, on this build, with what I have here. I'm not sure if I have all of the parts. Some of what is assembled needs to be taken apart and redone. So I looked at the membership rolls and see that several people have joined in the last year. I wonder how many are interested in joining a build also? Don't know how many keep an eye on this reflector, but an email to QRP-L might encourage others to build. Jim Korge might know of others who have an interest in taking part.
It's been 14 years since the first build. What do you think about a new one? 72,Gary/KF7WNS
Gary,
I have three 2N2s in various stages of build. They were given to me by a ham that was not able to finish. One of the builds has been to the point where there is a problem with not enough signal to the mixer... I think... I would LOVE to learn some and possibly get one going... My home email is psmith61@cox.net... I will follow along de Paul Smith N0NBD
---In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Ron-I read your post on the group site and am interested in your build. I purchased a partially built 2N2-40 back in April. The fellow who started it, couldn't finish it. I purchased it (which is about 1/4 assembled) along with parts he had gathered and documentation in the form of the Winter '98 QRPp build manual. I've read close to 1000 of the posts on this site starting at the very beginning, to try to get up to speed on how the first group build progressed. What a time capsule that is-lots of history there. Read some of the posts from after Sept. 11, 2001. Anyhow, I'm interested in joining in with you, on this build, with what I have here. I'm not sure if I have all of the parts. Some of what is assembled needs to be taken apart and redone. So I looked at the membership rolls and see that several people have joined in the last year. I wonder how many are interested in joining a build also? Don't know how many keep an eye on this reflector, but an email to QRP-L might encourage others to build. Jim Korge might know of others who have an interest in taking part.
It's been 14 years since the first build. What do you think about a new one? 72,Gary/KF7WNS
On 10/8/2013 4:52 PM,
psmith61@cox.net wrote:
>
>
> Gary,
>
> I have three 2N2s in various stages of build. They were given to me by
> a ham that was not able to finish. One of the builds has been to the
> point where there is a problem with not enough signal to the mixer...
> I think... I would LOVE to learn some and possibly get one going... My
> home email is psmith61@cox.net... I will follow along de Paul Smith N0NBD
Paul,
These guys are not building the NorCal 2N2/XX kits, they are building
the predecessor using Manhattan-style construction, putting the pads
and parts down on a substrate method. Just like the original 2N2/40
and 2N2/40+ were built, and the 20 and 30 meter versions of that rig.
No PCB! :-0 Real scratch building........
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Paul , good to have you along on this journey. Like Jim said, mine is on 5"x7" ground plane with section lines and parts placement stenciled on.
Jim, a question about the length of the leads. How critical is that? The previous builder was shy about trimming the leads down, so the parts stick up and aren't very orderly. I'm tempted to redo most of it just cuz it's not as tidy as your work. I will have to take some of it apart any how. First builder wasn't to keen on winding toroids, so he left them out. I don't have a problem winding them, but squeezing them in through the other parts will be tricky.
Been practicing "Manhatten" style building and realize how important it is to put parts down in proper order. I recently built a couple of small transmitters from Doug DeMaw's "QRP Notbook",built manhatten style, and they work right off . That's encouraging!
I'll need that encouragement with the 2N2-40, cuz I have no experience with allignment and have no test equipment. I do have a general coverage receiver to find LO tone and just bought an old Heathkit signal generator hoping it would help with the build.
Anyhow, Paul welcome aboard and hope we can scare up some others to join us.
Gary...
---In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, wrote:
On 10/8/2013 4:52 PM,
psmith61@... wrote:
>
>
> Gary,
>
> I have three 2N2s in various stages of build. They were given to me by
> a ham that was not able to finish. One of the builds has been to the
> point where there is a problem with not enough signal to the mixer...
> I think... I would LOVE to learn some and possibly get one going... My
> home email is psmith61@...... I will follow along de Paul Smith N0NBD
Paul,
These guys are not building the NorCal 2N2/XX kits, they are building
the predecessor using Manhattan-style construction, putting the pads
and parts down on a substrate method. Just like the original 2N2/40
and 2N2/40+ were built, and the 20 and 30 meter versions of that rig.
No PCB! :-0 Real scratch building........
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Thanks Gary and Jim,
I will get out my box and files tonight. I think the one started 2N2 that is the farthest is from Ron WA0MWW Terry's buddy in the iowegian country. I also have a started 2N2 40 on the screen printed board put out by the AZ group? Asnyhow I will start messing.
Thanks again de Paul N0NBD
---In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Paul , good to have you along on this journey. Like Jim said, mine is on 5"x7" ground plane with section lines and parts placement stenciled on.
Jim, a question about the length of the leads. How critical is that? The previous builder was shy about trimming the leads down, so the parts stick up and aren't very orderly. I'm tempted to redo most of it just cuz it's not as tidy as your work. I will have to take some of it apart any how. First builder wasn't to keen on winding toroids, so he left them out. I don't have a problem winding them, but squeezing them in through the other parts will be tricky.
Been practicing "Manhatten" style building and realize how important it is to put parts down in proper order. I recently built a couple of small transmitters from Doug DeMaw's "QRP Notbook",built manhatten style, and they work right off . That's encouraging!
I'll need that encouragement with the 2N2-40, cuz I have no experience with allignment and have no test equipment. I do have a general coverage receiver to find LO tone and just bought an old Heathkit signal generator hoping it would help with the build.
Anyhow, Paul welcome aboard and hope we can scare up some others to join us.
Gary...
---In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com,
wrote:
On 10/8/2013 4:52 PM,
psmith61@... wrote:
>
>
> Gary,
>
> I have three 2N2s in various stages of build. They were given to me by
> a ham that was not able to finish. One of the builds has been to the
> point where there is a problem with not enough signal to the mixer...
> I think... I would LOVE to learn some and possibly get one going... My
> home email is psmith61@...... I will follow along de Paul Smith N0NBD
Paul,
These guys are not building the NorCal 2N2/XX kits, they are building
the predecessor using Manhattan-style construction, putting the pads
and parts down on a substrate method. Just like the original 2N2/40
and 2N2/40+ were built, and the 20 and 30 meter versions of that rig.
No PCB! :-0 Real scratch building........
72,
Jim, K8IQY
On 10/9/2013 11:52 AM,
gardenerguy8@gmail.com wrote:
>
>
-snip-
>
>
> Jim, a question about the length of the leads. How critical is that?
Well not all that critical, but on the other hand, if they are short
there are lower parasitic inductances, so the circuitry is more
stable. What I'm telling everyone, don't go nuts about it, but the
shorter the better and often the neater the build will be.
> The previous builder was shy about trimming the leads down, so the
> parts stick up and aren't very orderly. I'm tempted to redo most of
> it just cuz it's not as tidy as your work.
There you go..... :-)
I will have to take some
> of it apart any how. First builder wasn't to keen on winding toroids,
> so he left them out. I don't have a problem winding them, but
> squeezing them in through the other parts will be tricky.
Yes, that might get ugly having to fit them in if he didn't leave
sufficient room.
>
>
> Been practicing "Manhatten" style building and realize how important
> it is to put parts down in proper order. I recently built a couple of
> small transmitters from Doug DeMaw's "QRP Notbook",built manhatten
> style, and they work right off . That's encouraging!
>
>
> I'll need that encouragement with the 2N2-40, cuz I have no experience
> with allignment and have no test equipment. I do have a general
> coverage receiver to find LO tone and just bought an old Heathkit
> signal generator hoping it would help with the build.
Both of those will be quite useful. A VOM with a simple home brew RF
probe could be useful too. So here is the ONE TIME OFFER that I will
make to the current builders. If you finish your rig, I will align it
for you at my well equipped lab and document its performance. You
will have to pay the shipping both ways to Fenton, MI, but that really
isn't all that much via USPS First Class. Pack it well and let me
know when it is coming.
>
>
> Anyhow, Paul welcome aboard and hope we can scare up some others to
> join us.
>
I hope you all have some success finding others to join the fray!
Good fun!
>
> Gary...
72 Gary and keep us posted on your progress,
Jim, K8IQY
Home of all things 2N2
Jim, thanks for the generous offer. Been looking forward to getting the radio on the air-and to have it tuned up properly-nice bonus! Gary...
---In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, wrote:
On 10/9/2013 11:52 AM,
gardenerguy8@... wrote:
>
>
-snip-
>
>
> Jim, a question about the length of the leads. How critical is that?
Well not all that critical, but on the other hand, if they are short
there are lower parasitic inductances, so the circuitry is more
stable. What I'm telling everyone, don't go nuts about it, but the
shorter the better and often the neater the build will be.
> The previous builder was shy about trimming the leads down, so the
> parts stick up and aren't very orderly. I'm tempted to redo most of
> it just cuz it's not as tidy as your work.
There you go..... :-)
I will have to take some
> of it apart any how. First builder wasn't to keen on winding toroids,
> so he left them out. I don't have a problem winding them, but
> squeezing them in through the other parts will be tricky.
Yes, that might get ugly having to fit them in if he didn't leave
sufficient room.
>
>
> Been practicing "Manhatten" style building and realize how important
> it is to put parts down in proper order. I recently built a couple of
> small transmitters from Doug DeMaw's "QRP Notbook",built manhatten
> style, and they work right off . That's encouraging!
>
>
> I'll need that encouragement with the 2N2-40, cuz I have no experience
> with allignment and have no test equipment. I do have a general
> coverage receiver to find LO tone and just bought an old Heathkit
> signal generator hoping it would help with the build.
Both of those will be quite useful. A VOM with a simple home brew RF
probe could be useful too. So here is the ONE TIME OFFER that I will
make to the current builders. If you finish your rig, I will align it
for you at my well equipped lab and document its performance. You
will have to pay the shipping both ways to Fenton, MI, but that really
isn't all that much via USPS First Class. Pack it well and let me
know when it is coming.
>
>
> Anyhow, Paul welcome aboard and hope we can scare up some others to
> join us.
>
I hope you all have some success finding others to join the fray!
Good fun!
>
> Gary...
72 Gary and keep us posted on your progress,
Jim, K8IQY
Home of all things 2N2
I posted pics of the boards that were given to me. I have been studying them some and have not decided where to start yet. I have a new board all partitioned off and marked for the 2N2 40 and have the 1998 QRPP book with Jim's build instructions and Pauls excellent drawings. The silk screened board is part way complete but the work looks like the dickens. I will need to order toroids and transistors but I am thinking of removing the parts and starting over? any thoughts?
de Paul N0NBD
Paul,
Just a response from left field here: I'd keep going except you might want to wait until you get the toroids, add them where necessary, and go back and check each stage per Doug's/Paul's/Jim's QRPp edition.
That way, if any stage needs work, you can do the clan up then.
I await your final results.
72,
Bill, k6whp
"clan up" == "clean up", of course.
|
4057|4054|2013-10-11 13:33:47|pds22553|Re: Hey Guys I posted a couple pictures|That sounds like good advice, I will make up my material list tonight and get some stuff ordered.
Thanks
Paul N0NBD
---In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Paul,
Just a response from left field here: I'd keep going except you might want to wait until you get the toroids, add them where necessary, and go back and check each stage per Doug's/Paul's/Jim's QRPp edition.
That way, if any stage needs work, you can do the clan up then.
I await your final results.
72,
Bill, k6whp
Hey Paul: Looks like we are in the same boat. I posted some pictures of the project I inherited. Gary KF7WNS
---In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, wrote:
That sounds like good advice, I will make up my material list tonight and get some stuff ordered.
Thanks
Paul N0NBD
---In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Paul,
Just a response from left field here: I'd keep going except you might want to wait until you get the toroids, add them where necessary, and go back and check each stage per Doug's/Paul's/Jim's QRPp edition.
That way, if any stage needs work, you can do the clan up then.
I await your final results.
72,
Bill, k6whp
I ordered some crystals on a lot of 50. I have. 4sqrp test set so I think I can read them for matching. How close matched am I looking for? I should have a bunch left that I would share if there are any people that need them. I will search the old posts to see if there are any matching parameters.
De Paul n0nbd
So... I think I know what to do about the project I acquired. Since I need to verify that the previous owner put correct parts on correct places, and I need to test sections as I go, I'm going to go through stages in build order. Any parts with leads that are too wild I'll shorten and tidy up. Others will stay and just get straightened up. One thing the previous builder did that I like is priming each pad with solder-seems to work well. Gary
|
4061|4060|2013-10-16 15:28:21|pds22553|Re: Decisions made|Gary,
I have decided that same thing. I have several cold/broken joints to fix. I have a couple tings on deck like finishing my HVAC system first. It is starting to get cold in the mornings with no heat!
Paul
---In 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com, <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
So... I think I know what to do about the project I acquired. Since I need to verify that the previous owner put correct parts on correct places, and I need to test sections as I go, I'm going to go through stages in build order. Any parts with leads that are too wild I'll shorten and tidy up. Others will stay and just get straightened up. One thing the previous builder did that I like is priming each pad with solder-seems to work well. Gary
On 10/29/2013 5:57 PM, Andy Adams wrote:
> jim,when i click on pictures & parts.i get nothing ,i have part of
> the schematic but not all of it.could you send me the complete build
> information in pdf file? thanks wn0iandy@gmail.com
> wn0iandy@gmail.com>
Hi Andy,
Sorry for the long delay in answering your email. I got your snail
mail letter today. I've been looking for the various files to the
2N240+ project. They are spread over at least two computers and 3
hard drives. Slowly, I am finding various files and hope to put all
of the information on my web site as time permits. Doing that isn't a
priority anymore because of the age of that design and supporting all
of the designs that have come after it. A good search on Google on
other search engines will probably take you to most of the information
that I have here that was put out to the internet in some form or
another if you can't wait on me. I'm paddling as fast as I can! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim,
I am coming into the middle of this conversation so I hope I am not way off
base but if you or Andy have the web link to the old file location and it
sounds like just
http://www.k8iqy.com then Andy might try the wayback
machine at
http://archive.org and put in that link address. I just looked
and it will take you as far back as Dec 7, 2004:
https://web.archive.org/web/20041208102221/http://www.k8iqy.com/qrprigs/QRPRigs.htm I do not see a link to 2N2/40 but see it to the 20 and 30.
If you go up to Dec 24, 2007:
https://web.archive.org/web/20080110190104/http://www.k8iqy.com/qrprigs/QRPRigs.htm I see that it has a link to 2N2/40 files which looks identical to your
current page.
I am not sure if this is/was any help or not but I rely on the wayback
machine for a lot of old web pages.
I do have one question along these lines. With the new Yahoo groups, how do
you save pictures that are in the photos section. I no longer have an
option to save file or save graphic in either IE or Firefox and see no
option on the page. How do we save pictures that are stored in a group
photo section?
Good luck.
Jim Pruitt
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kortge
To: Andy Adams
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2013 12:44 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: 2n2/40 updated 40 meter transceiver
On 10/29/2013 5:57 PM, Andy Adams wrote:
> jim,when i click on pictures & parts.i get nothing ,i have part of
> the schematic but not all of it.could you send me the complete build
> information in pdf file? thanks wn0iandy@gmail.com
> wn0iandy@gmail.com>
Hi Andy,
Sorry for the long delay in answering your email. I got your snail
mail letter today. I've been looking for the various files to the
2N240+ project. They are spread over at least two computers and 3
hard drives. Slowly, I am finding various files and hope to put all
of the information on my web site as time permits. Doing that isn't a
priority anymore because of the age of that design and supporting all
of the designs that have come after it. A good search on Google on
other search engines will probably take you to most of the information
that I have here that was put out to the internet in some form or
another if you can't wait on me. I'm paddling as fast as I can! :-)
72,
Jim, K8IQY
Jim, thanks for the link to the wayback machine. I'm working on a 2N2-40 and was having a similar problem. That site will come in handy for lots of things.
I have a bunch of files (2n2-40) from the Flying Pig group build from a
bunch of years ago.
Some place I can upload them?
Happy to fire them off to individuals, if asked :)
Kenyon Cox
WD8INS
Belpre, OH
--
Ubuntu
06:25:01 up 1 day, 20:59, 2 users, load average: 0.39, 0.48, 0.43
|
4066|4062|2013-11-12 07:53:13|Jim Kortge|Re: 2n2/40 updated 40 meter transceiver|On 11/12/2013 6:31 AM, Kenyon Cox wrote:
> I have a bunch of files (2n2-40) from the Flying Pig group build from a
> bunch of years ago.
Oh yes, I remember that one.
>
> Some place I can upload them?
If you can send them to me, I will put them up on the k8iqy.com web
site. I've just updated it to include all of the old 2N240+
information that I had distributed across 2 computers and 3 hard
drives. That's now on the web site. I even posted the 1998 Winter
QRPp article that I and Paul Harden, NA5N did. All of that info is
under the 2N240+ link.
>
> Happy to fire them off to individuals, if asked :)
Thanks for doing that. Several folks are building a rig at the moment.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
>
> Kenyon Cox
> WD8INS
> Belpre, OH
>
On 11/11/2013 11:51 AM, Jim Pruitt wrote:
> Jim,
Hi Jim,
Thanks for your email.
>
> I am coming into the middle of this conversation so I hope I am not way off
> base but if you or Andy have the web link to the old file location and it
> sounds like just http://www.k8iqy.com then Andy might try the wayback
> machine at http://archive.org and put in that link address. I just looked
> and it will take you as far back as Dec 7, 2004:
> https://web.archive.org/web/20041208102221/http://www.k8iqy.com/qrprigs/QRPRigs.htm
>
Thanks. Some of that info might be useful. I don't have a complete
history of the k8iqy.com web site changes along the way. Too much to
keep organized over 15+ years of activity.
> I do not see a link to 2N2/40 but see it to the 20 and 30.
> If you go up to Dec 24, 2007:
> https://web.archive.org/web/20080110190104/http://www.k8iqy.com/qrprigs/QRPRigs.htm
>
Actually, there is a link on the "Rigs" page to both the original
2N240 and also (now) to the 2N240+ rig, which was the 2nd version of
the rig on a larger substrate so that folks would have an easier time
building it. That version was updated several times to include an
audio pre-amp, RIT, and several flavors of QSK audio muting. Most of
the group builds were of that version of the rig.
> I see that it has a link to 2N2/40 files which looks identical to your
> current page.
Good....at least that part is still in place! :-)
>
> I am not sure if this is/was any help or not but I rely on the wayback
> machine for a lot of old web pages.
I had forgotten those existed. Nice to have that capability now and then.
>
> I do have one question along these lines. With the new Yahoo groups, how do
> you save pictures that are in the photos section.
I don't know. I haven't payed a lot of attention to how the Yahoo
groups have morphed with the latest updates by Yahoo. I do know a lot
of folks are really upset with all of the changes, but haven't gone
looking to see how badly my groups have been damaged. Time to do that
I guess.
I no longer have an
> option to save file or save graphic in either IE or Firefox and see no
> option on the page. How do we save pictures that are stored in a group
> photo section?
I don't know at the moment. I'll spend some time trying to scope it
all out.
>
> Good luck.
Thanks Jim. Nice to hear from you; keep up the interesting posts that
you do.
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I see the problems new builders are having. The 2n2222abcd02.PDF file on the Yahoo Group under file folder "2N240+ Schematics" contains what I call the IVEX BOM. The 2N240+ BOM.PDF file on the K8IQY website under the "2N240+ Transceiver" folder, at the Parts List link, appears to be the IVEX BOM also. Unfortunately, the IVEX BOM doesn't match the parts on either the 2N240 or 2N240+ schematics. The IVEX BOM is a file having a parts list referencing project C:\IVEX\2N240\2n2222abcd02.sch. Jim can probably fix the problem. I have a spreadsheet of the BOM for my 2N240+ build if it helps.
I have used the following parts to validate a 2N240 parts list.
Ref ... 2N240 Sch & PL 2N240+ Sch & My BOM ... IVEX BOM
C63 ... 820 SM .......... 0.22 uF ............ 330 SM
C65 ... 430 SM .......... 0.22 uF ............ 430 SM
C67 ... 4.7 uF .......... 330 SM ............ 0.01 uF
C68 ... 0.01 uF ......... 820 SM ............ 0.01 uF
C69 ... None .......... 430 SM ............ 0.001 uF
This isn't an all inclusive list of part differences -- it's just enough to tell which version file I'm dealing with.
Also "helping" new builders are files in the Files section of the Yahoo Group that are dead links. Specifically, the files 2n2bom-sorted.rtf and NorCal_2n2_40_parts_--_assembly_list.xls, as well as every other file I tried to download from the top level including the Extreme Manhattan files. I captured some of those years ago and still have them if we need to repost.
Ron
NN5R
|
4069|4068|2013-11-14 09:55:31|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N240+ Parts Lists|On 11/14/2013 2:01 AM, Ron Reeves, NN5R wrote:
> I see the problems new builders are having. The 2n2222abcd02.PDF file on the Yahoo Group under file folder "2N240+ Schematics" contains what I call the IVEX BOM. The 2N240+ BOM.PDF file on the K8IQY website under the "2N240+ Transceiver" folder, at the Parts List link, appears to be the IVEX BOM also. Unfortunately, the IVEX BOM doesn't match the parts on either the 2N240 or 2N240+ schematics.
At one time it did. A lot has changed and I no longer have the
ability to create a correct BoM without a lot of manual effort. Not
going to do that at this point in time on a 15+ year old design. I've
removed the offending BoM, that link on the web site doesn't show
anything now, so that should remove at least one source of confusion.
The IVEX BOM is a file having a parts list referencing project
C:\IVEX\2N240\2n2222abcd02.sch. Jim can probably fix the problem.
No I can't. I don't have an up-to-date BoM for the 2N240+ "as built"
on any of my accessible computers or hard drives. Nor do I have a
complete schematic showing the audio pre-amp that I added to my rig.
I can post that schematic on my web site if anyone is interested. I
believe I saw it on the Yahoo group site the last time I snooped
around there.
I have a spreadsheet of the BOM for my 2N240+ build if it helps.
Can you please post that on the Yahoo reflector? Note to all: the
Yahoo reflector seems to have been changed by Yahoo a while back and I
don't have the ability to "change and fix things" like I used to. I
don't know how it all works at the moment and don't have a lot of
interest in undoing all of the massive changes imparted on the group
site by Yahoo. You'll have to use it like it is.
>
> I have used the following parts to validate a 2N240 parts list.
> Ref ... 2N240 Sch & PL 2N240+ Sch & My BOM ... IVEX BOM
> C63 ... 820 SM .......... 0.22 uF ............ 330 SM
> C65 ... 430 SM .......... 0.22 uF ............ 430 SM
> C67 ... 4.7 uF .......... 330 SM ............ 0.01 uF
> C68 ... 0.01 uF ......... 820 SM ............ 0.01 uF
> C69 ... None .......... 430 SM ............ 0.001 uF
>
> This isn't an all inclusive list of part differences -- it's just enough to tell which version file I'm dealing with.
>
> Also "helping" new builders are files in the Files section of the Yahoo Group that are dead links.
See comments above!
Specifically, the files 2n2bom-sorted.rtf and
NorCal_2n2_40_parts_--_assembly_list.xls, as well as every other file
I tried to download from the top level including the Extreme Manhattan
files.
Pitty, those used to be readily available. Thanks Yahoo!!
I captured some of those years ago and still have them if we need
to repost.
Maybe that will work. I don't have them here.
My $.05 worth gang. Carry on.......
72,
Jim, K8IQY
I have posted a BOM for the 2N240+ parts I ordered back in 2007. The file is in the 2N240+ Schematics folder. This BOM matches the schematics in that folder.
Jim mentioned an Audio Pre-amp circuit that he added to his 2N240+ rig. I found the files for his Pre-amp in the "1st Audio Pre-Amplifier" folder in the Files section. My BOM does not include parts for this circuit.
Last night I posted that some of the files on the top level of the Files section of the Yahoo Group could no longer be downloaded. That problem has resolved itself.
72's
Ron NN5R
|
4071|90|2013-11-15 07:55:26|Jim Kortge|Re: New file uploaded to 2n2-40||
4072|4072|2015-02-03 12:14:59|mengelg|Unbuilt 2n2/20 FS|All,
I have an unbuilt 2n2/20 FS $100 + shipping and its yours.
All parts / case in original packing.
Contact me at ai1g@f-m.fm
73
AI1G (Guy Mengel)
My address and email are good in QRZ
|
4076|4072|2015-02-04 15:51:22|John Schwamborn|Re: Unbuilt 2n2/20 FS|Not sure why I got this email and what you are saying to me? John......from yahoo groups? I haven't been there in awhile so scratching my head! lolv tc
From: "ai1g@f-m.fm [2n2-40]" <2n2-40@yahoogroups.com>
To: 2n2-40@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 3, 2015 1:45 PM
Subject: [2n2-40] Re: Unbuilt 2n2/20 FS
My address and email are good in QRZ
I have a limited number of these Pots for sale. $7.00 + $3.99 shipping to your door.
Kevin, W8VOS
w8vos@arrl.net
Sorry, that should be $9.99 total. Did not do the math correctly. So $7.00 and $2.99 shipping. Paypal and US/Canada only.
Kevin, W8VOS
I know, my project is about 10 years late :)
I'm building a 2N2-20 on a K3PEG layout. The receiver is complete from post mixer amp through audio stage.
I've run into two issues:
1. My LO is putting out 14dbm instead of the specified 7dbm. The scope shows a good sine wave.
2. I'm hearing an audio sine wave out the the speaker with no signal input. The audio frequency varies with the local oscillator frequency trimmer.
Any ideas?
bob, N7SUR
Bob
item 2, by definition, is an unwanted oscillation. if you have the entire receiver put together, you might consider lifting parts to eliminate earlier stages from the receiver as being the cause.
I would carefully insure that you have installed all the required parts -- for example a missing cap could cause an instability. Another possibility is something is connected to the wrong place.
Enough of these rigs have been built I tend to trust the schematics. Make sure you aren't misinterpreting Larry's layout in your build. Remind yourself unlike some pursuits, 100% precision is required here -- things happen in the build.
73 Curt
|
4081|4079|2015-09-23 18:50:35|bob_ledoux|Re: 2N2-20 LO Issue|I built it from the audio amp back, checking each stage as I went. I inserted audio for a test until I got to the product detector. The receiver, less VFO, is complete from post mixer amp back to audio.
At this stage I am dealing with an unusually high local oscillator output 13dbm. As I'm using 1N5711's for the product detector and not an ADE-1 I thought it would not matter much. At least I won't exceed the power limit of the diodes.
I don't understand how I can adjust the LO frequency and change the audio frequency out unless an undisclosed IF frequency signal is mixing with it. I should only have random noise emanating from the 11mhz crystal filter and mixing with the LO.
I'll check the product detector input transformer again for proper wiring.
The audio amp pulls 33ma. Adding the local oscillator increases this to 40ma. With the IF amps and post mixer amp the current draw is 80ma. I expect the post mixer amp to draw current as a necessity for good dynamic range.
Knowing how the thing works doesn't mean I'm good at troubleshooting.
|
4082|4079|2015-09-23 19:59:32|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2-20 LO Issue| I know, my project is about 10 years late :)
Better late than never as the saying goes! :-)
I'm building a 2N2-20 on a K3PEG layout. The receiver is complete from post mixer amp through audio stage.
Building towards the front-end. Usually a good way to do things.
I've run into two issues:
1. My LO is putting out 14dbm instead of the specified 7dbm. The scope shows a good sine wave.
What kind of loading on the LO when you got the +14 dBm value? Is that open circuit or driving a 50 Ohm load, but not the single balanced mixer (product detector) itself?
2. I'm hearing an audio sine wave out the the speaker with no signal input.
Might be a bit of leakage via the power supply. Maybe adding the audio amp power conditioner used in the commercial version of the rig might help that situation. It's the 2N2/XX series of rigs that I'm referencing.
The audio frequency varies with the local oscillator frequency trimmer.
The other possibility is that the if the product detector is being driven, you are hearing noise/spurs on the input of the product detector being mixed down to base band audio.
There are probably other possibilities, but those come to mind first.
72 and GL; I'm sure you will find it,
Jim, K8IQY
Any ideas?
bob, N7SUR
|
4083|4079|2015-09-24 14:27:23|bob_ledoux|Re: 2N2-20 LO Issue|The excess LO occurs while the oscillator is feeding the trifilar coil to the product detector. There is a 51 ohm resistor shunting the feed to ground. I've also confirmed that the other end of the toroid coil is grounded as per schematic.
The audio tone quits if I remove power from IF amps while keeping power to the local oscillator. The schematic chains the Vcc through LO and then IF amps.
The scope shows a clean sine wave from the LO when the IF stages are unpowered. The LO develops the subharmonic noise with the IF powered. Power from the LO is little changed by the IF noise. The clean signal is about 1.6v RMS; it should be much less.
I've been checking my voltages against those for the Norcal kit. The amp feeding the roofing filter has emitter and base voltages about 0.5 volts lower than the kit. But the kit used slightly different values for the emitter resistors.
Since the collector of IF amp 1 feeds the base of IF amp 2, and both amps share the primary of transformer T6 I'd better check my circuitry in that area.
Any other ideas are appreciated.
keep on pickin'
|
4084|4079|2015-09-24 17:44:18|bob_ledoux|Re: 2N2-20 LO Issue|Brain freeze on my part.
I forgot about the trimmer cap, TC6 on the IF amp. Adjusting it made the IF generated audio disappear. I still have a LO putting out higher than designed power, but from what I am reading excess diode drive may be okay.
I can feed my DDS signal generator into the IF stage and get a good audio output from the speaker centered at 11,000.370 Khz. The crystal filter has a good shape sound and is about 600 Hz wide.
It appears to be working well. Now, to add the mixer and front end-------
thnx for input.
bob-N7SUR
|
4085|4079|2015-09-24 18:38:25|Jim Kortge|Re: 2N2-20 LO Issue| Brain freeze on my part.
Well that happens to the best of us!
I forgot about the trimmer cap, TC6 on the IF amp. Adjusting it made the IF generated audio disappear.
OK, that's sounding like progress.
I still have a LO putting out higher than designed power, but from what I am reading excess diode drive may be okay.
Yes, extra drive up to a point. You can always add a suitable attenuator to the output of the LO to tame the power, and you get the benefit of improving the LO drive isolation. That's always a good thing to have.
I can feed my DDS signal generator into the IF stage and get a good audio output from the speaker centered at 11,000.370 Khz.
Sounds about right. I've forgotten where the IF Filter is centered after all these years. Used to know all of that off the top of my head; not anymore!
The crystal filter has a good shape sound and is about 600 Hz wide.
That also sound correct.
It appears to be working well. Now, to add the mixer and front end-------
And you will have a complete receiver! Good going Bob.
thnx for input.
bob-N7SUR
72 and thanks for the update,
Jim, K8IQY
|
4086|4079|2015-09-24 20:17:29|Mark Schoonover|Re: 2N2-20 LO Issue|I still have all the parts with one section built I think from more than 10 years ago. Had a Ten-Tec case too but put that to use in another project.
On Sep 23, 2015 8:41 AM, "
bobledoux@proaxis.com [2n2-40]" <
2n2-40@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
I know, my project is about 10 years late :)
I'm building a 2N2-20 on a K3PEG layout. The receiver is complete from post mixer amp through audio stage.
I've run into two issues:
1. My LO is putting out 14dbm instead of the specified 7dbm. The scope shows a good sine wave.
2. I'm hearing an audio sine wave out the the speaker with no signal input. The audio frequency varies with the local oscillator frequency trimmer.
Any ideas?
bob, N7SUR
The VFO T2 transformer for the 2N2/20 calls for an FT37-61 ferrite core. The callout is 14.2 uh in the primary with 16 turns in primary and center taped secondary of 3 and 1 turns.
Could I try an iron core T50-2? To achieve 14.2 uh requires 54 turns. The turns ratio for secondaries become 10 turns and 3 turns respectively.
The transformer is part of a tuned circuit, with parallel 120 pf and 5-50pf trimmer.
Because VFO output is 13 dbm I don't see core saturation a problem. The T50-2 is also rated for the VFO frequency range.
I appreciate the FT37-61 has a higher "Al" value. But other than the additional work of winding more turns on a T50-2, am I missing something here? For example, does the iron core have a higher Q that might result in non-linear power out across the VFO tuning frequency?
A curious mind asks,
bob-N7SUR
The VFO T2 transformer for the 2N2/20 calls for an FT37-61 ferrite core. The callout is 14.2 uh in the primary with 16 turns in primary and center taped secondary of 3 and 1 turns.
I think you meant to say, "Secondaries of 3 and 1 turns." Which is what I remember it should be without digging out a schematic. I hope I'm right.... :-)
Could I try an iron core T50-2? To achieve 14.2 uh requires 54 turns. The turns ratio for secondaries become 10 turns and 3 turns respectively.
The transformer is part of a tuned circuit, with parallel 120 pf and 5-50pf trimmer.
That ought to work just fine. When I did the original design, I figured folks would much rather wind on 16 turns and get the number correct than put 54 turns on a T50-2 core and count it incorrectly.
Because VFO output is 13 dbm I don't see core saturation a problem. The T50-2 is also rated for the VFO frequency range.
Agreed on both points.
I appreciate the FT37-61 has a higher "Al" value. But other than the additional work of winding more turns on a T50-2, am I missing something here?
Nope!
For example, does the iron core have a higher Q that might result in non-linear power out across the VFO tuning frequency?
I don't think that will be an issue. If it is, a bit of resistive padding (high value) across the tuned circuit will fix that issue.
A curious mind asks,
You are having fun aren't you Bob! Keep going..... :-)
bob-N7SUR
72,
Jim, K8IQY
|
4089|4089|2015-10-11 14:33:16|bob_ledoux|New 2N2-20 Receiver Working|I've got the receiver working. The antenna is connected to the RX Input Filter, bypassing the the receive T/R switch isn't yet populated. It sounds good. Speaker output is adequate. It is sensitive and shows a nice narrow crystal filter.
The circuit is pulling 145ma, which I thought might be a bit high. Starting now on the transmitter.
bob-N7SUR
Jim,
I posted the message below over on Chuck's QRP-Tech group as a suggestion. I wanted to re-broadcast it here because -- probably owing to Chuck being very busy -- some of my posts don;t see the light of day.
Anyway, even though I will be wading through a NorCal 2N2-40 kit in the upcoming months, I always wanted to "do none from from scratch" per your excellent design.
Though you might be interested.
vy 72,
Bill, k6whp
== QRP-Tech Post ==
Gentlemen,
I guess my previous suggestion got lost in the shuffle. You might consider Jim Kortge's 2N2-?? as a candidate for this project. Also, from what I glean from another thread, Chuck has found a source of inexpensive PCBs, etc.
Back in 1998 (for those who are new to the discipline) Doug published a marvelous built-it edition of QRPp that on Jim's amazing rig featuring Paul Harden's incredible drawings. It might be an interesting idea to "resurrect" this project. It has many benefits (built in sections, could be "re-spec'ed" to conform to the original parameters of the rig proposed in this thread, could be re-built for 20, and could become a collaborative parts-scrounge effort, etc.)
The radio is quiet as the tomb and covers most, if not all, of the intended band.
Perhaps the QRP GUYS could make a set of boards available; not an entire PCB, but the modules.
Dunno; waddya think?
Bill, k6whp
Jim,
Hi Bill,
I posted the message below over on Chuck's QRP-Tech group as a suggestion.
Yes, I saw it.
I wanted to re-broadcast it here because -- probably owing to Chuck being very busy -- some of my posts don;t see the light of day.
That happens to all of us. :-)
I was thinking it would not be very cost effective to do separate PCB for each section. That would run up the PCB cost a great deal compared to doing a single board, as was done with the NorCal 2N2/XX rigs.
Anyway, even though I will be wading through a NorCal 2N2-40 kit in the upcoming months, I always wanted to "do none from from scratch" per your excellent design.
Have fun with that rig Bill.
Though you might be interested.
I like keeping up with what is going on with my designs. As always, if you need something, just send an email.
vy 72,
Bill, k6whp
72,
Jim, K8IQY
== QRP-Tech Post ==
Gentlemen,
I guess my previous suggestion got lost in the shuffle. You might consider Jim Kortge's 2N2-?? as a candidate for this project. Also, from what I glean from another thread, Chuck has found a source of inexpensive PCBs, etc.
Back in 1998 (for those who are new to the discipline) Doug published a marvelous built-it edition of QRPp that on Jim's amazing rig featuring Paul Harden's incredible drawings. It might be an interesting idea to "resurrect" this project. It has many benefits (built in sections, could be "re-spec'ed" to conform to the original parameters of the rig proposed in this thread, could be re-built for 20, and could become a collaborative parts-scrounge effort, etc.)
The radio is quiet as the tomb and covers most, if not all, of the intended band.
Perhaps the QRP GUYS could make a set of boards available; not an entire PCB, but the modules.
Dunno; waddya think?
Bill, k6whp
|
4092|4090|2016-03-15 12:37:53|k6whp|Re: New 2N2 XX Collaborative Project Proposed|"I was thinking it would not be very cost effective to do separate PCB for each section. That would run up the PCB cost a great deal compared to doing a single board, as was done with the NorCal 2N2/XX rigs."
Jim,
The reason I suggested that was because Chuck had located some firm that would do smaller PCBs for a [relative] pittance. I thought they might want to leverage that concept to build a section at a time, experimenting with each along the way. If, for example, one built a mixer and was not satisfied with it, they could build up another after experimenting and put that one in line. That way, one would not have to wick up the stuff from main PCB and/or otherwise have it all gooped up with mistakes. Diz had this concept going on a while ago when he sold his component kits.
For the record, their embarking on the adventure of "re-building" the NE4040 using Farr's boards is a perilous journey. It is a circuit that has been improved and refined and released by Dave Benson as the SW-XX series. (Now defunct, of course.) Also, your 2n2-XX is far superior to the NE4040 any day! After all is said and done (and more will be said than done), I always have my QRPMe squares and a wad o' PCB blanks so I guess I will recreate my 2N2-40 that way.
By the way, George Heron, N2APB, is beginning a "re-build" of the SW-30+ as part of his CWTD series.
So, as you all say up there in the Upper Mid-West, then there's that.
71/72.
Bill, k6whp
|
4093|4090|2016-03-21 00:12:12|bob_ledoux|Re: New 2N2 XX Collaborative Project Proposed|I'm on my third 2N2 rig. I built a 2N-230 with an LC- VFO receiver on home etched boards.
K3PEG has a Manhattan layout for the 2N2-20. I built that. Its on a 5 x 7 board. I found it a bit tight for component checking. But the individual stages could be built on individual boards.
The individual stages can be sized for print. The prints are then used to place the pads for construction.
I'm currently finishing up a Norcal 2N2-20 kit I bought off ebay. As I write this there is the same kit on ebay with a current bid of about $80.
As much as I like the 2N2 series these rigs hail back to the 1990's. These rigs have over 300 parts. You might consider one of the more recent designs. Jim has designs that have moved with the times, offering excellent performance with fewer components.
For example, the SS-40HT receiver, which was offered by the Four State QRP Group is an excellent design that is operating on other than 40 meters. Proper selection of IF frequency and SuperVXO could put it on other bands. One might also use a DDS VFO with a selection of front end filters for multiple band use.
bob-N7SUR
|
4094|4090|2016-03-21 00:31:29|Gary Ekker|Re: New 2N2 XX Collaborative Project Proposed|Does anyone have schematics for a 2N2 80 meter version?
Gary/KF7WNS
There are a BUNCH of Jpegs and
schematics of the rig
I found this along with many others
by looking at the images of the
2N222 40 / 80 images from google
If I grabbed the wrong one
there are plenty more out there : )
I see the newer versions are
out of stock??? Maybe the
four state QRP group will come up
with some more???
73 fer now
Bill KE9XQ
Does anyone have schematics for a 2N2 80 meter version?
Same schematic as the 40 meter version of the rig, but with different components for the front-end and IF filters, along with a change to the VFO frequency. I never did the design for that version, but still have it as an active ( but inactive) project.
Jim, K8IQY
|
4097|4097|2016-12-26 14:18:11|Howard Kraus|FS: (2) 2N2/6 Six Meter Transverters|I am offering (2) 2N2/6 six meter transverters for sale. These are identical, beautifully built into a Ten-Tec enslosure.
These were built by myself, and received some attention from Jim K8IQY some years ago. As I have dedicated rigs for six meters, these transverters are surplus to my needs. Included are some notes from Jim to improve the transmitter power output.
$50.00 will ship either of these transverters to your door. Pictures are available on request.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
Howard, I'm tempted, but I enjoy the building too much.
Post it on the QRP-L list. Someone may jump at it there.
Its good to see people still frequenting Jim's' 2N2 groups.
Good luck.
73
bob-N7SUR
|
4099|4099|2018-05-05 19:08:46|Jim Pruitt|Is anyone building any 2N2-xx? Is anyone still using one?| I have not seen any activity on this group in a very long time. I am wondering if anyone is building a 2N2-xx or is currently using one?
I have 2 of the kits from NJQRP and trying to decide when to start them.
What has been your experience in using a 2N2-xx? Have you compared it to any of the current offerings? How does it compare? I know we tend to go for the newest but Jim's design seems to have weathered the test of time while others have come and gone.
Thank you.
Jim Pruitt
WA7DUY
|
4100|4099|2018-05-05 20:18:38|Mark Schoonover|Re: Is anyone building any 2N2-xx? Is anyone still using one?|I have one I started building about 15 years ago. Still on the shelf for when I get a round to it.
I have not seen any activity on this group in a very long time. I am wondering if anyone is building a 2N2-xx or is currently using one?
I have 2 of the kits from NJQRP and trying to decide when to start them.
What has been your experience in using a 2N2-xx? Have you compared it to any of the current offerings? How does it compare? I know we tend to go for the newest but Jim's design seems to have weathered the test of time while others have come and gone.
Thank you.
Jim Pruitt
WA7DUY
Jim,
I have one of the early builds. 5"x7" board with manhattan layout stenciled on the copper. It's about half done, but I keep getting drawn away to other projects. I know I'll enjoy the radio when it's finished.
Gary/KF7WNS
Hello Gary.
I tried several times to acquire one of those island boards but always came out #2 on the list. I do not really like manhattan style more because I am not sure how to lay them out. The 2N2-XX seemed like a great project and had a lot of interest as well as support from K8IQY.
Good luck with your project. I will be looking for it and you on the air with it.
Jim Pruitt
WA7DUY
Jim,
I have one of the early builds. 5"x7" board with manhattan layout stenciled on the copper. It's about half done, but I keep getting drawn away to other projects. I know I'll enjoy the radio when it's finished.
Gary/KF7WNS
|
4103|4099|2018-05-06 17:31:05|Jay Bromley|Re: Is anyone building any 2N2-xx? Is anyone still using one?|HI Jim,
I think the 2n2-40 was very high performance QRP rig. Probably more parts than the current offerings. I have a stenciled board from the Arizona Scorpions somewhere and the NorCal printed circuit board kit. A few guys in my area build the later up and had a good time with them. They were quite the rage for a while, but QRPers get board and always looking for new projects or to finish up old ones, hi. Great design and learning articles out there to be had. 73 de w5jay/jay..
Hi Jim
found my way here as I am planning a 2n2/40 build and came looking for activity. Did you build your kit(s)?
Dave, no I have not heard any response and there have been some recent developments with Groups.io that I think have seal the fate of this group and others.
When I started investigating the migration to Groups.io I discovered that they recently made changes to the
migration process which now mandates that to transfer an existing group, the newly created group on
Groups.io must first be upgrade from the default BASIC (free) group to a premium group.The group may be downgraded back to BASIC after one year so it becomes a one time cost of $110 USD. Just this morning I discovered that price has now been increased to $220 USD.
So unless someone knows how to get in touch with the group owner and we have a phantom benefactor,
I doubt very much, given the amount of traffic/interest in this group, that we will be able to raise $220 USD
via donation from members.
Cheers
Michael VE3WMB
All,
I sent an email to Yahoo several weeks ago to provide a download link for acquiring all of the infor for the groups where I am an owner. The link they provided was useless! Essentially, they restored all of the files and photos of my groups (5 of them) but no mechanism to gather all of the info from each group easily. The option is for me to copy each posting, file, and photo manually and download them to my computer. As I told Yahoo in a follow up email, I'm 76 and won't live long enough to do it their way. -:(
I also sent an email to Dean Davis, N7XG, the owner of the NorCal_2N2 group but he hasn't responded. I came across some info on the internet that he might now be in Alaska, with a different call. I can't confirm that his business, Alpine Soft is still going at his old QTH in Salem, Oregon. So that's another dead end so far.
My plan is to keep pushing Yahoo for some assistance for getting the files from the groups that I own, but not holding my breath that they will actually do anything useful.
That's the latest from my end.
72 and will keep you all posted if something good happens,
Jim, K8IQY
|