2|2|2011-05-29 13:33:41|ac0bq|Thanks Jim|

Thanks Jim for creating the groups, and also for designing two very nice QRP items.
72 73
Johnny AC0BQ

| 3|2|2011-05-29 14:32:07|Jim Kortge|Re: Thanks Jim|

On 5/29/2011 1:33 PM, ac0bq wrote:

> Thanks Jim for creating the groups, and also for designing two very nice QRP items.
> 72 73
> Johnny AC0BQ
>
>

Hi Johnny,

I see you found the MagicBox group. I would have called it just plain
"MagicBox", but dang, that name was already in use at Yahoo. Go figure.

Have fun and I'll be here answering questions and the like.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 4|4|2011-05-29 15:33:10|wb8yyy_curt|UW Rig and the Magic Box|

My first QRP rig is the W7ZOI ugly weekender (not exactly mainstream in the world of Manhattan practitioners).

The MB added to the shack inspired finding the rig from the storage room. Made a few QSO's with it, then attached the freq counter to it - yikes! PA also found to be intermittent - and in the midst of troubleshooting my decades-old eyes dealing with construction maladies of youth led to smoke! fortunately it was not the final, but a mere PNP was split into 3 pieces (one for each lead) when it must have drawn what the PS had to give! So this lead to a rebuild - more stable caps in VFO and of coarse repair of the switch network to the PA.

Anyway the MB nicely inspires homebrew efforts. Next to finish my receiver - it does work (on a breadboard) but I am constructing a homebrew rendition of the Hybrid Cascode AGC amplifier for it.

The QSK of the 'box' is very nice. As I shared on QRP-L a RBN skimmer said I was doing 17 WPM with a straight key into the 'box' - maybe but I doubt it.

Those considering 'the box' may find it quite useful to spawning more building. Its also a nice foundation for implementing multi-band receivers and/or transmitters - which are not as easy to do when you must build the QSK. Modularity for the home homebrew station is not a bad thing.

73 Curt

| 5|5|2011-05-29 17:11:55|PaulS|Tnx Jim|

Tnx Jim for the two new groups. I will follow both. I have kitted a bunch of the Magic Boxes but have not bought or built one yet. Hopefully on the next run de Paul N0NBD

| 6|6|2011-05-29 22:52:32|huyettm|Soldering to the ground plane|

I built my MagicBox about a year ago. Everything seemed OK except that the receive signal was attenuated considerably when listening with key up. I ran out of time and put it aside. I just acquired another kit from a different person and in glancing through the instructions it cautioned about cold solder joints when making connections to the ground plane due to the massive heat sinking of the ground plane itself. That struck a note so I got out my magic box and sure enough, the ground leg of the receiver BNC was NOT connected! I fixed that and it works flawlessly! Make sure you have a good high capacity pencil or gun or something for those ground connections. I've been soldering for 50 plus years and made that error so perhaps this will help someone else.

| 7|7|2011-05-30 16:51:48|burrorf@bellsouth.net|Transmiting into the recieve|

My Magic Box remains safely unassembled, however, a fellow ham (who shall remain unidentified) wants to know what damage he might expect to find from inadvertently transmitting into the receive jack. I'm quite sure this is a purely hypothetical question, hi hi.

Dick, N5KIP

| 8|7|2011-05-30 16:56:31|WA0ITP|Re: Transmiting into the recieve|

Smoke! :o)
-------------------------------------------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: <burrorf@bellsouth.net>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 3:51 PM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Transmiting into the recieve

| My Magic Box remains safely unassembled, however, a fellow ham (who
shall remain unidentified) wants to know what damage he might expect
to find from inadvertently transmitting into the receive jack. I'm
quite sure this is a purely hypothetical question, hi hi.
|
| Dick, N5KIP
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 9|5|2011-05-30 17:57:10|Jim Kortge|Re: Tnx Jim|

On 5/29/2011 5:11 PM, PaulS wrote:

> Tnx Jim for the two new groups.

You are welcome Paul.

I will follow both.

Me too. I'm having a bit of trouble yesterday and today as the power
is out from the mini-storm last night. The cell signal here is quite
variable and unreliable. We are running on the generator at the moment.

I have kitted a bunch of the Magic Boxes but have not bought or
built one yet.

You have to take one of those kitted babies and build it up.

Hopefully on the next run de Paul N0NBD

I think Terry is working on that right now!

Thanks loads Paul for doing all of that kitting of the MagicBox for
us, and I was serious, Terry is going to buy you one!

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 10|5|2011-05-30 19:03:55|WA0ITP|Re: Tnx Jim|

Its a done deal Paul! Take one!
-------------------------------------------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge" <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Tnx Jim

| On 5/29/2011 5:11 PM, PaulS wrote:
| > Tnx Jim for the two new groups.
|
| You are welcome Paul.
|
| I will follow both.
|
| Me too. I'm having a bit of trouble yesterday and today as the
power
| is out from the mini-storm last night. The cell signal here is
quite
| variable and unreliable. We are running on the generator at the
moment.
|
| I have kitted a bunch of the Magic Boxes but have not bought or
| built one yet.
|
| You have to take one of those kitted babies and build it up.
|
| Hopefully on the next run de Paul N0NBD
|
| I think Terry is working on that right now!
|
| Thanks loads Paul for doing all of that kitting of the MagicBox for
| us, and I was serious, Terry is going to buy you one!
|
| 72,
|
| Jim, K8IQY
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 11|6|2011-05-31 17:17:19|Jim Kortge|Re: Soldering to the ground plane|

On 5/29/2011 10:52 PM, huyettm wrote:

> I built my MagicBox about a year ago. Everything seemed OK except that the receive signal was attenuated considerably when listening with key up. I ran out of time and put it aside. I just acquired another kit from a different person and in glancing through the instructions it cautioned about cold solder joints when making connections to the ground plane due to the massive heat sinking of the ground plane itself. That struck a note so I got out my magic box and sure enough, the ground leg of the receiver BNC was NOT connected! I fixed that and it works flawlessly! Make sure you have a good high capacity pencil or gun or something for those ground connections. I've been soldering for 50 plus years and made that error so perhaps this will help someone else.
>
>

I'm delighted to hear that you found the problem with your MagicBox
and it is now working well.

When I build, I usually use a temperature controlled 40+ watt iron
(Solomon SL030) with an 1/8 inch tip and running at 300 degrees C.
Works fine for soldering ground plane connections. For surface mount,
I switch to a 1/16 inch tip and dial down to temp by 20-30 degrees.

Jim, K8IQY

| 12|7|2011-06-01 11:49:12|Jim Kortge|Re: Transmiting into the recieve|

On 5/30/2011 4:51 PM, burrorf@bellsouth.net wrote:

> My Magic Box remains safely unassembled, however, a fellow ham (who shall remain unidentified) wants to know what damage he might expect to find from inadvertently transmitting into the receive jack.

Ouch...not supposed to do that. But, it may be just fine to probably
burned out some of the receive side components. It all depends on how
long and at what power level he transmitted into the receive port. He
should try running the MagicBox as it was designed and see if it is
still working correctly. If not, probably D2, Q1 and Q2 need to be
replaced. You didn't say if any smoke came out. That would help
assess how much, if any, damage was done.

I'm quite sure this is a purely hypothetical question, hi hi.

Maybe not....... :-)

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 13|13|2011-06-02 10:33:30|wb8yyy_curt|Mini QRO Ideas?|

Noting the MB does eliminate the need for considering T/R ramifications when adding a transmit stage, I am contemplating a boost to the 1.8 watt output from my ugly weekender Xmtr. As a boost from 1.8 to 5 watts is only about 4 dB I am thinking about aiming for 8-10 watts although this is not a hard requirement. Not wanting to dismantle the PA from the current transmitter, I can think of two 'architectures' -- one using an attenuator to absorb a watt or so, and the other is to merely use the UW's VFO (which itself is not keyed) to drive a two stage PA. My current stash is limited - so far I have a IRF-510, some BS-170's that could be paralleled and nothing else to reach up to 5 watts. Once I ran across a table of 6 or more candidate MOSFETs for such an application but I did not save the URL. I read with interest the NB6M design info at Norcal - which uses the PA matching network to transform to make the low impedance load to obtain the required power from a normal 13 volt supply. My interest is a design to support 40m, with maybe later also having a second matching network for 80m.

Perhaps others are considering a similar homebrew stage for an existing transmitter and know of other literature on the topic?

| 14|14|2011-06-02 16:10:35|John|Purchased MB at Dayton|

I purchased at dayton along with the SS-40 receiver. I have already built the NS-40. The question is now was which to build first. I decided to do the receiver first. Will probably start as soon as I finish the SS-40.
John NS5Z

| 15|14|2011-06-02 16:20:54|WA0ITP|Re: Purchased MB at Dayton|

FB John,

You might consider signing up for the SS-40 Yahoo Group if you havent
already. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ss-40/join Lots of info
there.

Enjoy the kits
-------------------------------------------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <john@all-the-facts.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2011 3:10 PM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Purchased MB at Dayton

|I purchased at dayton along with the SS-40 receiver. I have already
built the NS-40. The question is now was which to build first. I
decided to do the receiver first. Will probably start as soon as I
finish the SS-40.
| John NS5Z
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 16|13|2011-06-02 16:39:14|wb8yyy_curt|Re: Mini QRO Ideas?|

I found what I had seen earlier -- and its info provided by Terry !

www.wa0itp.com/classeampdesignreva.xls

Now this has me wondering about what is involved in conditioning a VFO output to provide the appropriate stimulus for a class E stage?

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "wb8yyy_curt" wrote:
>
> Noting the MB does eliminate the need for considering T/R ramifications when adding a transmit stage, I am contemplating a boost to the 1.8 watt output from my ugly weekender Xmtr. As a boost from 1.8 to 5 watts is only about 4 dB I am thinking about aiming for 8-10 watts although this is not a hard requirement. Not wanting to dismantle the PA from the current transmitter, I can think of two 'architectures' -- one using an attenuator to absorb a watt or so, and the other is to merely use the UW's VFO (which itself is not keyed) to drive a two stage PA. My current stash is limited - so far I have a IRF-510, some BS-170's that could be paralleled and nothing else to reach up to 5 watts. Once I ran across a table of 6 or more candidate MOSFETs for such an application but I did not save the URL. I read with interest the NB6M design info at Norcal - which uses the PA matching network to transform to make the low impedance load to obtain the required power from a normal 13 volt supply. My interest is a design to support 40m, with maybe later also having a second matching network for 80m.
>
> Perhaps others are considering a similar homebrew stage for an existing transmitter and know of other literature on the topic?
>

| 17|17|2011-06-04 05:07:18|grahamg3zod|Enclosures|

I'm in the UK and I've been trying to find a suitable case for my Magic Box for a while (if the TenTec cases are available over here, I've not managed to find a supplier). The MB shape made it tricky to find a suitable clam shell-style case as for some reason UK suppliers seem to prefer supplying "narrow and long" rather than "wide and short" cases, meaning the PCB would need to be attached to the upper section, which is very awkward.

Anyway, I finally found a suitable case - a little tall, but that allows room for adding keyers etc. HI HI. It's a steel top with an almuminium base so it's easy to drill. It's not cheap (UKP 12.30) but it's quite handsome:
EN81223 150 x 150 x 75mm
CPC http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/level5/module.jsp?moduleId=cpc/256385.xml

CPC offer free delivery every few weeks, so at least that doesn't add to the cost.

I'm sure someone will now tell me of a better and cheaper alternative, HI HI.

73 de Graham G3ZOD FISTS #8385
http://www.fists.co.uk

| 18|17|2011-06-04 05:59:27|grahamg3zod|Re: Enclosures|

Sorry: I meant to say that both sections are aluminium and the case comes painted cream and grey.

73 de Graham G3ZOD FISTS #8385
http://www.fists.co.uk

| 19|17|2011-06-04 09:45:46|WA0ITP|Re: Enclosures|

Vy nice looking case Graham. Thanx for sharing that for the UK members of the list.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----

From: grahamg3zod

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2011 4:55 AM

Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Enclosures

Sorry: I meant to say that both sections are aluminium and the case comes painted cream and grey.

73 de Graham G3ZOD FISTS #8385
http://www.fists.co.uk

| 20|14|2011-06-04 19:58:32|PaulS|Re: Purchased MB at Dayton|

Hi John,

I also purchased my MB and SS-40 at FDIM. I just finished the MB and was impressed with the quality of the board, parts, and construction manual. I'm now starting on the SS-40. I can hardly wait to put these gems on the air!

Mny tnx to K8IQY and 4SQRP for making these fine kits available to us.

72, Paul AA4XX

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "WA0ITP" wrote:
>
> FB John,
>
> You might consider signing up for the SS-40 Yahoo Group if you havent
> already. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ss-40/join Lots of info
> there.
>
> Enjoy the kits
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> wa0itp@...
> www.wa0itp.com
> www.4sqrp.com
> www.qrpspots.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John"
> To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2011 3:10 PM
> Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Purchased MB at Dayton
>
>
> |I purchased at dayton along with the SS-40 receiver. I have already
> built the NS-40. The question is now was which to build first. I
> decided to do the receiver first. Will probably start as soon as I
> finish the SS-40.
> | John NS5Z
> |
> |
> |
> | ------------------------------------
> |
> | Yahoo! Groups Links
> |
> |
> |
>

| 21|21|2011-06-11 14:17:24|bill_nt9k|SPST wiring question|

In this photo:
http://www.wa0itp.com/mbimg_3228_800.jpg

It shows the 3 pin header J10 with 3 wires connected, but at the switch only 2 wires are connected. Instead of using one SPST and one DPDT toggle switch as shown in that photo, I'm using 3 SPST switches.

My question is, if using a SPST switch, which 2 of the 3 header pins on J10 do you use? I think it's the 2 pins on the right, with the jacks all facing me but would like to confirm it to be sure.

Thanks, 73. Bill NT9K..
http://www.nt9k.com
http://www.nt9k.com/qrp
http://www.nt9k.com/keys

| 22|22|2011-06-11 14:26:56|Carlo Strozzi|MB pin headers|

Hi,

the MB kit provides a number of pin headers, that are to be soldered
to the board. Along with those male pins, a row of suitable break-away
females is also supplied. Now, I need to buy more of the latter, for
some other projects of mine, but I could not find them anywhere. I
have found similar stuff at Mouser's, but the ones that they have got
are much shorter. They can be used, but longer ones would make for a
much better job. Can anyone provide a pointer to a vendor of the ones
supplied with the MB ?

tnx,
Carlo

--
Software Patents kill Innovation: say NO to Software Patents!
I Brevetti Software uccidono l'innovazione: di NO ai Brevetti Software!

| 23|21|2011-06-11 17:51:46|Jim Kortge|Re: SPST wiring question|

On 6/11/2011 2:17 PM, bill_nt9k wrote:

> In this photo:
> http://www.wa0itp.com/mbimg_3228_800.jpg
>
> It shows the 3 pin header J10 with 3 wires connected, but at the switch only 2 wires are connected.

The other wire is the shield of that shielded pair. Since it is an
audio line, I though it best to shield it from the PCB to the switch,
but no need to comment the shield at the switch.

Instead of using one SPST and one DPDT toggle switch as shown in
that photo, I'm using 3 SPST switches.

>
> My question is, if using a SPST switch, which 2 of the 3 header pins on J10 do you use? I think it's the 2 pins on the right, with the jacks all facing me but would like to confirm it to be sure.

You are correct, the right two pins have the audio signal on them.
The left pin of that header is grounded if you want to carry a shield
over to the switch like I did.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 24|21|2011-06-11 18:02:33|Bill@nt9k.com|Re: SPST wiring question|

Thanks Jim, for confirming my thoughts and I'll try the shielding tip too!
73, Bill NT9K..

On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 17:51:36 -0400, Jim Kortge wrote:

On 6/11/2011 2:17 PM, bill_nt9k wrote:
> In this photo:
> http://www.wa0itp.com/mbimg_3228_800.jpg [1]
>
> It shows the 3 pin header J10 with 3 wires connected, but at the switch
only 2 wires are connected.

The other wire is the shield of that shielded pair. Since it is an
audio line, I though it best to shield it from the PCB to the switch,
but no need to comment the shield at the switch.

Instead of using one SPST and one DPDT toggle switch as shown in
that photo, I'm using 3 SPST switches.
>
> My question is, if using a SPST switch, which 2 of the 3 header pins on
J10 do you use? I think it's the 2 pins on the right, with the jacks all
facing me but would like to confirm it to be sure.

You are correct, the right two pins have the audio signal on them.
The left pin of that header is grounded if you want to carry a shield
over to the switch like I did.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 25|22|2011-06-11 21:11:28|Jim Kortge|Re: MB pin headers|

On 6/11/2011 2:26 PM, Carlo Strozzi wrote:

> Hi,
>
> the MB kit provides a number of pin headers, that are to be soldered
> to the board. Along with those male pins, a row of suitable break-away
> females is also supplied. Now, I need to buy more of the latter, for
> some other projects of mine, but I could not find them anywhere. I
> have found similar stuff at Mouser's, but the ones that they have got
> are much shorter. They can be used, but longer ones would make for a
> much better job. Can anyone provide a pointer to a vendor of the ones
> supplied with the MB ?
>
> tnx,
> Carlo
>

Carlo,

The female header that we use in the MagicBox is this Mouser Part
Number: 517-929974-01-36-RK It is a 36 pin unit that we cut in half
and put an 18 pin female header into each kit. Hope that helps.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 26|26|2011-06-12 13:06:35|fghester|Test of Audio Muting Switch - Page 12|

Greetings all. Have just installed Q11, Q12 & Q13 and get no tone at J5 following test instructions. J6 & R32 test was A-O.K. with strong tone and off to very loud with R32. Have double checked parts, test lead, power source and jumper. any advice or hints? Thanks! / Woody / WD9F

| 27|26|2011-06-12 13:33:57|Jim Kortge|Re: Test of Audio Muting Switch - Page 12|

On 6/12/2011 1:06 PM, fghester wrote:

> Greetings all.

Hi Woody,

Have just installed Q11, Q12& Q13

You put 2N7000s there?

and get no tone at J5 following test instructions.

Those instructions have you ground the lower lead of R21 and place a
jumper from pin 16 to pin 20 on the U1 IC socket. You did that?

J6& R32 test was A-O.K. with strong tone and off to very loud with R32.

You didn't leave the sidetone pot turned all the way down from the
previous step I hope. No audio output when in that condition.

Have double checked parts, test lead, power source and jumper. any
advice or hints?

Are you seeing +5 volts on the hot side of capacitor locations C14 and
C18? If not, those two MOSFETs are not biased on as they should be.
The pin 16 to pin 20 jumper does that.

If you have those voltages and still no audio, either Q12 or Q13 could
be bad (open) or Q11 is conducting because the lower end of R21 isn't
grounded.

Thanks! / Woody / WD9F

That's my $.02 for the moment. Recheck those setup items and keep us
posted.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 28|28|2011-06-18 20:52:34|WA0ITP|VXO Kit|

Thinking ahead to the VXO kit, it would be nice to match it up to the
NS-40 as well as making it pretty much plug and play for other
xmttrs. The NS-40 needs 20-25 volts P-P at the crystal socket for 5W
or so out, Would that be as simple as winding the binoc as a 1:4 step
up xformer provide that much voltage (provided there's enough room),
or would an outboard amp need to be added?

Family coming to visit tomorow, so I'll be out of radio action until
Monday.

72 es ttul
-------------------------------------------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

| 29|28|2011-06-22 21:54:05|O. Alan Jones|electrolytic caps|

| 30|28|2011-06-23 05:45:41|n1rx|Re: electrolytic caps|

That's right, Al. In fact the schematic and the bill of materials both show them as non-polarized. If you look at the caps themselves, you will see they don't have the traditional negative lead marking on them.

GL,
Bruce, N1RX

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "O. Alan Jones" wrote:
>
> I noticed that for electrolytic capacitors C25, C26, C15, C16, and C23,
> the polarities are not shown on the circuit board.
> Does that mean that these caps are non polarized?
>
> Al
> N8WQ
>

| 31|28|2011-06-23 06:23:31|O. Alan Jones|Re: electrolytic caps|

Bruce and Terry,
Thanks for the info, what was causing me some confusion was that one lead was longer on the caps, like a polarized electrolytic.
I also noticed that the capacitor symbol on the schematic was non polarized, but wanted to make sure. LOL
I plan on using my MagicBox during Field Day. I hope to finish building it today.

Al
N8WQ

On 6/23/2011 5:45 AM, n1rx wrote:

That's right, Al. In fact the schematic and the bill of materials both show them as non-polarized. If you look at the caps themselves, you will see they don't have the traditional negative lead marking on them.

GL,
Bruce, N1RX

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "O. Alan Jones" wrote:
>
> I noticed that for electrolytic capacitors C25, C26, C15, C16, and C23,
> the polarities are not shown on the circuit board.
> Does that mean that these caps are non polarized?
>
> Al
> N8WQ
>

| 32|28|2011-06-24 04:28:24|grahamg3zod|Re: electrolytic caps|

Aha this had me worried too. I'm guessing that the most likely reason for the lead lengths is that they are made using the same machinery that is set up to encapsulate the conventional polarized electrolytics or possibly they are done that way so that machinery that inserts the components into PCBs doesn't need to be changed.

73 de Graham G3ZOD FISTS #8385
http://www.fists.co.uk

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "O. Alan Jones" wrote:
> ...what was causing me some confusion was that one
> lead was longer on the caps, like a polarized electrolytic.
> I also noticed that the capacitor symbol on the schematic was non
> polarized...

| 33|33|2011-06-27 08:38:50|Carlo Strozzi|nice combo :-)|

Here it is, looks nice and works great!

http://www.strozzi.it/users/carlo/hamradio/ss-40/epsn5180.html

My companion NS-40 has multiple XTALS, as you can see from the rotary
switch on the front. That will eventually become a Super-VXO.

The keyer sitting on top of the SS-40 is a PK-4.

ciao,
Carlo

--
Software Patents kill Innovation: say NO to Software Patents!
I Brevetti Software uccidono l'innovazione: di NO ai Brevetti Software!

| 34|33|2011-06-27 09:33:04|WA0ITP|Re: nice combo :-)|

Very Very Nice Carlo, thanx foe sharing the pictures.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlo Strozzi" <carlos@linux.it>
To: "SS-40 Yahoo Group" <SS-40@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 7:38 AM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] nice combo :-)

| Here it is, looks nice and works great!
|
| http://www.strozzi.it/users/carlo/hamradio/ss-40/epsn5180.html
|
| My companion NS-40 has multiple XTALS, as you can see from the
rotary
| switch on the front. That will eventually become a Super-VXO.
|
| The keyer sitting on top of the SS-40 is a PK-4.
|
|
| ciao,
| Carlo
|
| --
| Software Patents kill Innovation: say NO to Software Patents!
| I Brevetti Software uccidono l'innovazione: di NO ai Brevetti
Software!
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 35|35|2011-07-17 14:23:19|Stew|Audio Jacks misaligned|

I just started to assemble the Majic Box I received a year ago. The four audio jacks are misagligned with the front of the board when mounted. I can see where this will be a problem when installing in an enclosure.
Is this typical? I wonder if this run of jacks has the side pin relocated. Board is v1.2b.
Regards
Stew ke4yh

| 36|35|2011-07-17 14:30:17|WA0ITP|Re: Audio Jacks misaligned|

Hi Stew,

Sri for the problem. We received a few incorrect jacks at the
beginning of the first run. Mouser apparently had some mixed stock.
I have correct replacement jacks and will send them to you at no cost.
Are you good on QRZ.com?
-------------------------------------------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Stew" <ke4yh@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 1:23 PM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Audio Jacks misaligned

|I just started to assemble the Majic Box I received a year ago. The
four audio jacks are misagligned with the front of the board when
mounted. I can see where this will be a problem when installing in an
enclosure.
| Is this typical? I wonder if this run of jacks has the side pin
relocated. Board is v1.2b.
| Regards
| Stew ke4yh
|
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 37|35|2011-07-17 14:41:50|Stew|Re: Audio Jacks misaligned|

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "WA0ITP" wrote:

>
> Hi Stew,
>
> Sri for the problem. We received a few incorrect jacks at the
> beginning of the first run. Mouser apparently had some mixed stock.
> I have correct replacement jacks and will send them to you at no cost.
> Are you good on QRZ.com?
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP

Thanks Terry,
Yes QRZ.COM is good.
72,
Stew ke4yh

| 38|38|2011-07-21 18:40:41|WA0ITP|MB Spot/Tune Function|

I just posted this on the NS-49 list and thought I should pose it here
also.

A 100 ohm resistor for R46 has been supplied in the
latest run. It works well as a starting value for determining the
volume of the spotting signal. Your receiver/transmitter combo may
require that this value be adjusted up of down, but 100 ohms has
worked in several units.

Some questions have arisen regarding wiring of the spot/tune switch.
The photo page has a small schematic of the way I did mine.
http://www.wa0itp.com/mbphotopage.html

-------------------------------------------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

| 39|38|2011-07-21 18:44:04|WA0ITP|Re: MB Spot/Tune Function|

err... NS-40 not 49, and post not pose ... I need a nap.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "WA0ITP" <wa0itp@mchsi.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2011 5:40 PM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] MB Spot/Tune Function

|I just posted this on the NS-49 list and thought I should pose it
here
| also.
|
| A 100 ohm resistor for R46 has been supplied in the
| latest run. It works well as a starting value for determining the
| volume of the spotting signal. Your receiver/transmitter combo may
| require that this value be adjusted up of down, but 100 ohms has
| worked in several units.
|
| Some questions have arisen regarding wiring of the spot/tune switch.
| The photo page has a small schematic of the way I did mine.
| http://www.wa0itp.com/mbphotopage.html
|
| -------------------------------------------------------------------
| I love this radio stuff !
| 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
| wa0itp@wa0itp.com
| www.wa0itp.com
| www.4sqrp.com
| www.qrpspots.com
|
|
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 40|38|2011-07-21 20:05:43|Jim Kortge|Re: MB Spot/Tune Function|

On 7/21/2011 6:40 PM, WA0ITP wrote:

> I just posted this on the NS-49 list and thought I should pose it here
> also.
>
> A 100 ohm resistor for R46 has been supplied in the
> latest run. It works well as a starting value for determining the
> volume of the spotting signal. Your receiver/transmitter combo may
> require that this value be adjusted up of down, but 100 ohms has
> worked in several units.

Which reminds me, we (I) need to change the Bill of Material and
Assembly Manual to call out the 100 Ohm resistor instead of the 10
Meg. Won't be until the temps fall off, too hot up here in the lab to
do much computering!

72,

Jim, K8IQY

>
> Some questions have arisen regarding wiring of the spot/tune switch.
> The photo page has a small schematic of the way I did mine.
> http://www.wa0itp.com/mbphotopage.html

Nice........

| 41|38|2011-07-21 21:03:09|Rich Fowler|Re: MB Spot/Tune Function|

From: Jim Kortge
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Cc: WA0ITP
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 12:05 AM
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] MB Spot/Tune Function

On 7/21/2011 6:40 PM, WA0ITP wrote:
> I just posted this on the NS-49 list and thought I should pose it here
> also.
>
> A 100 ohm resistor for R46 has been supplied in the
> latest run. It works well as a starting value for determining the
> volume of the spotting signal. Your receiver/transmitter combo may
> require that this value be adjusted up of down, but 100 ohms has
> worked in several units.

Which reminds me, we (I) need to change the Bill of Material and
Assembly Manual to call out the 100 Ohm resistor instead of the 10
Meg. Won't be until the temps fall off, too hot up here in the lab to
do much computering!

72,

Jim, K8IQY

>
> Some questions have arisen regarding wiring of the spot/tune switch.
> The photo page has a small schematic of the way I did mine.
> http://www.wa0itp.com/mbphotopage.html

Nice........

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/K8IQY-MagicBox/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
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<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
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| 42|38|2011-07-21 21:04:11|Rich Fowler|Re: MB Spot/Tune Function|

The blank msg was sent in error. Sorry! Keeping cool by staying inside here.

From: Jim Kortge
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Cc: WA0ITP
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 12:05 AM
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] MB Spot/Tune Function

On 7/21/2011 6:40 PM, WA0ITP wrote:
> I just posted this on the NS-49 list and thought I should pose it here
> also.
>
> A 100 ohm resistor for R46 has been supplied in the
> latest run. It works well as a starting value for determining the
> volume of the spotting signal. Your receiver/transmitter combo may
> require that this value be adjusted up of down, but 100 ohms has
> worked in several units.

Which reminds me, we (I) need to change the Bill of Material and
Assembly Manual to call out the 100 Ohm resistor instead of the 10
Meg. Won't be until the temps fall off, too hot up here in the lab to
do much computering!

72,

Jim, K8IQY

>
> Some questions have arisen regarding wiring of the spot/tune switch.
> The photo page has a small schematic of the way I did mine.
> http://www.wa0itp.com/mbphotopage.html

Nice........

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/K8IQY-MagicBox/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/K8IQY-MagicBox/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
K8IQY-MagicBox-digest@yahoogroups.com
K8IQY-MagicBox-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
K8IQY-MagicBox-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

| 43|38|2011-07-23 14:52:45|O. Alan Jones|MagicBox Kit|

Paul D. Smith, N0NBD sent me a 2nd MagicBox kit in the mail that I did not order.
I need to get a hold of Paul to let him know the mistake.

Sincerely,
Al

O. Alan Jones  --  N8WQ - Canal Winchester, Ohio CompTIA: A+ Certified Professional

| 44|44|2011-07-30 20:55:17|Ira B. Rothenhoefer|magic box T1 and T2|

HI;

I need some information about the T1 and T2 transformer mounting. To digress a little, I had the MB hooked up to the SS40 receiver earlier today.The receiver is hearing pretty good now and after hooking up the MB I noticed that the signals were way down from the receiver. I found a wrong transistor at Q2 and changed it out, but same thing, low signals. Very low.Everything else seems to work ok..

I removed both T1 and T2 and I am looking at conflicting, to me, statements. Both boxes have a 4T at the top inside. on the left side T1 has: 4TP-2TS. T2 has 2TP-4TS......So, do I put the side of the Transformer that has 4 turns at the top or flip flop them and put T1 2TS at the top and T2 4TS at the top???

73

Barney

| 45|44|2011-07-31 21:45:44|Jim Kortge|Re: magic box T1 and T2|

Barney

Put the transformers in such that the two turn windings are connected via the transistors. The idea is to step the voltages down and then back up again. Follow the assembly manual instructions and you will be fine.

Jim, K8IQY

| 46|44|2011-08-01 00:30:02|Ira B. Rothenhoefer|Re: magic box T1 and T2|

Hi Jim;

I don't see any explicit instructions in the assembly manual on the orientation of the transformers. Maybe I can figure it out from the schematic. Thanks and 73

Barney

On 7/31/2011 8:45 PM, Jim Kortge wrote:

Barney

Put the transformers in such that the two turn windings are connected via the transistors. The idea is to step the voltages down and then back up again. Follow the assembly manual instructions and you will be fine.

Jim, K8IQY

| 47|44|2011-08-01 16:33:29|Ira B. Rothenhoefer|Re: magic box T1 and T2|

Hi Jim;

     Got the transformers back in the magic box and seems to work FB. I have good signals and the static is coming thru in good shape..hi

    OK. Truth time. I had a 2N3906 in for the 2N7000 at Q2. And had the transformers in the same way, but had not scraped the enamel from the free ends of them. So, I believe the leads on the transformers were insulated and neither was working and that was the main problem...but both could definitely cause my problem of receiver deafness.

73

Barney

On 7/31/2011 11:29 PM, Ira B. Rothenhoefer wrote:

Hi Jim;

I don't see any explicit instructions in the assembly manual on the orientation of the transformers. Maybe I can figure it out from the schematic. Thanks and 73

Barney

On 7/31/2011 8:45 PM, Jim Kortge wrote:

Barney

Put the transformers in such that the two turn windings are connected via the transistors. The idea is to step the voltages down and then back up again. Follow the assembly manual instructions and you will be fine.

Jim, K8IQY

| 48|48|2011-08-28 19:57:33|Ken F|Help w/test Results|

The test after installing Q7 & Q10 at the bottom of page 12.
Before applying power to board, I connected source to J4 and receiver to J3 and signals are heard on receiver. When I apply power the
signals become some what muted. All previous tests have been OK.
Am I missing some thing? Should signals be heard before power?
Ken
N5EBD

| 49|48|2011-08-29 17:03:30|Jim Kortge|Re: Help w/test Results|

On 8/28/2011 7:57 PM, Ken F wrote:

> The test after installing Q7& Q10 at the bottom of page 12.
> Before applying power to board, I connected source to J4

What was that and how much signal is it supplying.

and receiver to J3 and signals are heard on receiver.

Probably from capacitive coupling through the 1N4007 diode, or the
signal supply is enough to make it conduct. We don't want a large
signal for this test. 1 millivolt would be more than enough. That's
why connecting an antenna is suggested as a signal source.

When I apply power the

> signals become some what muted.

Hmmmm, not what is expected. Applying power forces current through
the 1N4007 diode making it conduct. It is essentially connects J4 to
J3 under this condition.

All previous tests have been OK.

> Am I missing some thing? Should signals be heard before power?

No, and if so, at a very low level compared to when power is applied.
Did you put the correct transistors into the right places? A
mixture of 2N7000 and 2N3906 transistors are specified, depending on
the location. Q9 has to be a 2N3906 PNP.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 50|50|2011-10-03 09:03:10|WA0ITP|Fw: Enclosure availability|

----- Original Message -----

From: WA0ITP

To: qrp-l@qrp-l.org

Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 7:34 AM

Subject: Fw: Enclosure availability

If you have looked for enclosures on the Ten Tec site and discovered that none were listed, they are still available. TT has undergone a web site revision and the enclosure pages haven't been uploaded yet. I asked about it and their sales dept's reply is below.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: Sales, Enclosure

To: WA0ITP

Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 7:09 AM

Subject: Re: Enclosure availability

Terry

No, we have not gone out of the enclosure business. Yes, they are still available. The new web site went live before we had time to get them up. Until they are back on the site, call 800-453-7172 and ask for sales.

Jerry Whaley

On Sun, Oct 2, 2011 at 3:38 PM, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

Has TT gone out of the enclosure business?
-------------------------------------------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

| 51|51|2011-11-02 09:49:28|jerry_n2zw|Keying issue|

Hi all,

Love the kit. Built it, tested it along the way and all tests were good until I got to keying the transmitter into a dummy load at the very end.

My K2 keyed it fine. My TT2 and GlowBug are not (thought they both output fine into a dummy load directly).

Symptom is no output, getting good sidetone and the IRF510 (Q17) is getting instantly HOT!

I have verified components a couple of times, looked at solder joints, etc. I checked all voltages that I could from the schematic (while not keying) and nothing seemed off.

My guess is that because the TT2 and Glowbug carry more voltage across their 'key inclusive' circuits (not isolated), I must have a short, bad ground or a regulator not working, but not sure how to debug.

Any help would be appreciated as I am looking to really use this with my TT's, Globugs, etc.

Thanks.
73.
Jerry
N2ZW

| 52|51|2011-11-02 10:15:33|WA0ITP|Re: Keying issue|

GM Jerry,

If the MB keyed the K2 properly, it's probably not a MB issue. It
sounds as though your MB is seeing the full power supply voltage from
your Glowbug and Tuna Tin 2, not the keying current. The IRF510 is
rated at 5.6A, 100V and abt a .5 ohm when turned on, and should handle
both of them easily. Check to make sure the Glowbug and TT2 keying
jacks are wired correctly and not providing the full power supply
voltage directly to the key jack. You can also put the positive lead
of an ohmmeter on the keyed line going into the MB and make sure that
line shows zero ohms when keyed, indicating that the 510 is turning on
properly.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "jerry_n2zw" <jerry.rosenzweig@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 8:49 AM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Keying issue

| Hi all,
|
| Love the kit. Built it, tested it along the way and all tests were
good until I got to keying the transmitter into a dummy load at the
very end.
|
| My K2 keyed it fine. My TT2 and GlowBug are not (thought they both
output fine into a dummy load directly).
|
| Symptom is no output, getting good sidetone and the IRF510 (Q17) is
getting instantly HOT!
|
| I have verified components a couple of times, looked at solder
joints, etc. I checked all voltages that I could from the schematic
(while not keying) and nothing seemed off.
|
| My guess is that because the TT2 and Glowbug carry more voltage
across their 'key inclusive' circuits (not isolated), I must have a
short, bad ground or a regulator not working, but not sure how to
debug.
|
| Any help would be appreciated as I am looking to really use this
with my TT's, Globugs, etc.
|
| Thanks.
| 73.
| Jerry
| N2ZW
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 53|51|2011-11-02 11:20:29|Jim Kortge|Re: Keying issue|

On 11/2/2011 10:15 AM, WA0ITP wrote:

> GM Jerry,
>
> If the MB keyed the K2 properly, it's probably not a MB issue. It
> sounds as though your MB is seeing the full power supply voltage from
> your Glowbug and Tuna Tin 2, not the keying current. The IRF510 is
> rated at 5.6A, 100V and abt a .5 ohm when turned on, and should handle
> both of them easily. Check to make sure the Glowbug and TT2 keying
> jacks are wired correctly and not providing the full power supply
> voltage directly to the key jack. You can also put the positive lead
> of an ohmmeter on the keyed line going into the MB and make sure that
> line shows zero ohms when keyed, indicating that the 510 is turning on
> properly.
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> wa0itp@wa0itp.com
> www.wa0itp.com
> www.4sqrp.com
> www.qrpspots.com
>

Jerry,

I think Terry hit the nail on the head. My review of the TT2
schematic shows the power to the rig being routed through the key, so
if you hook up that rig to the keying lead of the MagicBox, you will
be shorting out the power supply to the TT2. I can't find a schematic
for the Glowbug rig, but it may well be the same. The MagicBox keying
circuit is expecting to ground the keying lead from the transmitter;
it is not floating, so can't key a circuit that uses the key as a
switch in line with a power supply. That said, it will key any rig
where the keying needed requires the key line of the transmitter be
taken to ground. It should handle cathode keyed rigs up to the
voltage and current levels tolerated by the IRF510.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jerry_n2zw"<jerry.rosenzweig@gmail.com>
> To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 8:49 AM
> Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Keying issue
>
>
> | Hi all,
> |
> | Love the kit. Built it, tested it along the way and all tests were
> good until I got to keying the transmitter into a dummy load at the
> very end.
> |
> | My K2 keyed it fine. My TT2 and GlowBug are not (thought they both
> output fine into a dummy load directly).
> |
> | Symptom is no output, getting good sidetone and the IRF510 (Q17) is
> getting instantly HOT!
> |
> | I have verified components a couple of times, looked at solder
> joints, etc. I checked all voltages that I could from the schematic
> (while not keying) and nothing seemed off.
> |
> | My guess is that because the TT2 and Glowbug carry more voltage
> across their 'key inclusive' circuits (not isolated), I must have a
> short, bad ground or a regulator not working, but not sure how to
> debug.
> |
> | Any help would be appreciated as I am looking to really use this
> with my TT's, Globugs, etc.
> |
> | Thanks.
> | 73.
> | Jerry
> | N2ZW
> |
> |
> |
> | ------------------------------------
> |
> | Yahoo! Groups Links
> |
> |
> |
>
>

| 54|51|2011-11-02 15:46:00|jerry_n2zw|Re: Keying issue|

Thank you Terry and Jim.

I think you are right on the keying mechanism for the TT and Glowbug. It seems that they were 'shorting' and that would make sense. Looks like I need to create an isolation circuit for the rigs, which I saw in some old TT mod docs.

Has anyone successfully put either of these rigs.... NorCal TT2 Rev A or the original Glowbug 40m on the air with this T/R Switch? Would be interesting to see.

Also, question on how to put the 'spot' function in use without the tune. Don't need the tune, but would like a momentary spot function.... Do I tie pins 1&2 together with the other side of the switch to ground?

Can't wait to get this sorted out and into my matching gray TenTec case!

72/73,
Jerry
N2ZW

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> On 11/2/2011 10:15 AM, WA0ITP wrote:
> > GM Jerry,
> >
> > If the MB keyed the K2 properly, it's probably not a MB issue. It
> > sounds as though your MB is seeing the full power supply voltage from
> > your Glowbug and Tuna Tin 2, not the keying current. The IRF510 is
> > rated at 5.6A, 100V and abt a .5 ohm when turned on, and should handle
> > both of them easily. Check to make sure the Glowbug and TT2 keying
> > jacks are wired correctly and not providing the full power supply
> > voltage directly to the key jack. You can also put the positive lead
> > of an ohmmeter on the keyed line going into the MB and make sure that
> > line shows zero ohms when keyed, indicating that the 510 is turning on
> > properly.
> >
> > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > I love this radio stuff !
> > 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> > wa0itp@...
> > www.wa0itp.com
> > www.4sqrp.com
> > www.qrpspots.com
> >
>
> Jerry,
>
> I think Terry hit the nail on the head. My review of the TT2
> schematic shows the power to the rig being routed through the key, so
> if you hook up that rig to the keying lead of the MagicBox, you will
> be shorting out the power supply to the TT2. I can't find a schematic
> for the Glowbug rig, but it may well be the same. The MagicBox keying
> circuit is expecting to ground the keying lead from the transmitter;
> it is not floating, so can't key a circuit that uses the key as a
> switch in line with a power supply. That said, it will key any rig
> where the keying needed requires the key line of the transmitter be
> taken to ground. It should handle cathode keyed rigs up to the
> voltage and current levels tolerated by the IRF510.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "jerry_n2zw"
> > To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 8:49 AM
> > Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Keying issue
> >
> >
> > | Hi all,
> > |
> > | Love the kit. Built it, tested it along the way and all tests were
> > good until I got to keying the transmitter into a dummy load at the
> > very end.
> > |
> > | My K2 keyed it fine. My TT2 and GlowBug are not (thought they both
> > output fine into a dummy load directly).
> > |
> > | Symptom is no output, getting good sidetone and the IRF510 (Q17) is
> > getting instantly HOT!
> > |
> > | I have verified components a couple of times, looked at solder
> > joints, etc. I checked all voltages that I could from the schematic
> > (while not keying) and nothing seemed off.
> > |
> > | My guess is that because the TT2 and Glowbug carry more voltage
> > across their 'key inclusive' circuits (not isolated), I must have a
> > short, bad ground or a regulator not working, but not sure how to
> > debug.
> > |
> > | Any help would be appreciated as I am looking to really use this
> > with my TT's, Globugs, etc.
> > |
> > | Thanks.
> > | 73.
> > | Jerry
> > | N2ZW
> > |
> > |
> > |
> > | ------------------------------------
> > |
> > | Yahoo! Groups Links
> > |
> > |
> > |
> >
> >
>

| 55|51|2011-11-02 17:58:44|Jim Kortge|Re: Keying issue|

Attachments :

On 11/2/2011 3:45 PM, jerry_n2zw wrote:

> Thank you Terry and Jim.

You are welcome Jerry.

>
> I think you are right on the keying mechanism for the TT and Glowbug.

I've attached a schematic of some circuitry that you can build to key
the TT2 and glowbug rigs if they indeed need their power switched when
they are transmitting. The TIP 42 transistor is available at most
Radio Shacks, so maybe that will help in putting the circuit together.

It seems that they were 'shorting' and that would make sense.

That would indeed explain the hot IRF510 keying transistor.

Looks like I need to create an isolation circuit for the rigs,
which I saw in some old TT mod docs.

I've attached what you need in a .pdf file. Hopefully, Terry can also
put it up on the MagicBox web page.

>
> Has anyone successfully put either of these rigs.... NorCal TT2 Rev A or the original Glowbug 40m on the air with this T/R Switch?

I don't know, but would expect if they did, they would need the
additional circuitry that I've designed for you.

Would be interesting to see.

>
> Also, question on how to put the 'spot' function in use without the tune. Don't need the tune, but would like a momentary spot function.... Do I tie pins 1&2 together with the other side of the switch to ground?

I'm unclear to me what it is that you want to do. Normally, the
"spot" function puts the transmitter on the air so that one can find
where it is transmitting with the receiver. When doing that, the
sidetone would also be active so that you can match the receiver
output audio tone against the internal side tone of the MagicBox. Is
that what you want to do? If so, Terry put a small schematic up on
the photo section of the MagicBox web page showing how to wire up the
"SPOT" - "TUNE" switch. Maybe we can move that file to the main page
where the other documentation resides.

>
> Can't wait to get this sorted out and into my matching gray TenTec case!

Roger that....I'm anxious to hear how it plays with the glowbug and
TT2 rigs.

>
> 72/73,
> Jerry
> N2ZW

72 and GL Jerry,

Jim, K8IQY

>
> --- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>>
>> On 11/2/2011 10:15 AM, WA0ITP wrote:
>>> GM Jerry,
>>>
>>> If the MB keyed the K2 properly, it's probably not a MB issue. It
>>> sounds as though your MB is seeing the full power supply voltage from
>>> your Glowbug and Tuna Tin 2, not the keying current. The IRF510 is
>>> rated at 5.6A, 100V and abt a .5 ohm when turned on, and should handle
>>> both of them easily. Check to make sure the Glowbug and TT2 keying
>>> jacks are wired correctly and not providing the full power supply
>>> voltage directly to the key jack. You can also put the positive lead
>>> of an ohmmeter on the keyed line going into the MB and make sure that
>>> line shows zero ohms when keyed, indicating that the 510 is turning on
>>> properly.
>>>
>>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> I love this radio stuff !
>>> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
>>> wa0itp@...
>>> www.wa0itp.com
>>> www.4sqrp.com
>>> www.qrpspots.com
>>>
>>
>> Jerry,
>>
>> I think Terry hit the nail on the head. My review of the TT2
>> schematic shows the power to the rig being routed through the key, so
>> if you hook up that rig to the keying lead of the MagicBox, you will
>> be shorting out the power supply to the TT2. I can't find a schematic
>> for the Glowbug rig, but it may well be the same. The MagicBox keying
>> circuit is expecting to ground the keying lead from the transmitter;
>> it is not floating, so can't key a circuit that uses the key as a
>> switch in line with a power supply. That said, it will key any rig
>> where the keying needed requires the key line of the transmitter be
>> taken to ground. It should handle cathode keyed rigs up to the
>> voltage and current levels tolerated by the IRF510.
>>
>> 72,
>>
>> Jim, K8IQY
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "jerry_n2zw"
>>> To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 8:49 AM
>>> Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Keying issue
>>>
>>>
>>> | Hi all,
>>> |
>>> | Love the kit. Built it, tested it along the way and all tests were
>>> good until I got to keying the transmitter into a dummy load at the
>>> very end.
>>> |
>>> | My K2 keyed it fine. My TT2 and GlowBug are not (thought they both
>>> output fine into a dummy load directly).
>>> |
>>> | Symptom is no output, getting good sidetone and the IRF510 (Q17) is
>>> getting instantly HOT!
>>> |
>>> | I have verified components a couple of times, looked at solder
>>> joints, etc. I checked all voltages that I could from the schematic
>>> (while not keying) and nothing seemed off.
>>> |
>>> | My guess is that because the TT2 and Glowbug carry more voltage
>>> across their 'key inclusive' circuits (not isolated), I must have a
>>> short, bad ground or a regulator not working, but not sure how to
>>> debug.
>>> |
>>> | Any help would be appreciated as I am looking to really use this
>>> with my TT's, Globugs, etc.
>>> |
>>> | Thanks.
>>> | 73.
>>> | Jerry
>>> | N2ZW
>>> |
>>> |
>>> |
>>> | ------------------------------------
>>> |
>>> | Yahoo! Groups Links
>>> |
>>> |
>>> |
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>

| 56|51|2011-11-02 18:01:22|Jake, ON4YZ|Re: Keying issue|

Please have a look here : http://www.wa2ntk.com/othercircuits.html#CC

< http://www.wa2ntk.com/othercircuits.html#CC>

73 de Jake, ON4YZ

De : K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com [mailto:K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com] De la part de jerry_n2zw
Envoyé : mercredi 2 novembre 2011 20:46
À : K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Keying issue

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> On 11/2/2011 10:15 AM, WA0ITP wrote:
> > GM Jerry,
> >
> > If the MB keyed the K2 properly, it's probably not a MB issue. It
> > sounds as though your MB is seeing the full power supply voltage from
> > your Glowbug and Tuna Tin 2, not the keying current. The IRF510 is
> > rated at 5.6A, 100V and abt a .5 ohm when turned on, and should handle
> > both of them easily. Check to make sure the Glowbug and TT2 keying
> > jacks are wired correctly and not providing the full power supply
> > voltage directly to the key jack. You can also put the positive lead
> > of an ohmmeter on the keyed line going into the MB and make sure that
> > line shows zero ohms when keyed, indicating that the 510 is turning on
> > properly.
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > I love this radio stuff !
> > 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> > wa0itp@...
> > www.wa0itp.com
> > www.4sqrp.com
> > www.qrpspots.com
> >
>
> Jerry,
>
> I think Terry hit the nail on the head. My review of the TT2
> schematic shows the power to the rig being routed through the key, so
> if you hook up that rig to the keying lead of the MagicBox, you will
> be shorting out the power supply to the TT2. I can't find a schematic
> for the Glowbug rig, but it may well be the same. The MagicBox keying
> circuit is expecting to ground the keying lead from the transmitter;
> it is not floating, so can't key a circuit that uses the key as a
> switch in line with a power supply. That said, it will key any rig
> where the keying needed requires the key line of the transmitter be
> taken to ground. It should handle cathode keyed rigs up to the
> voltage and current levels tolerated by the IRF510.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "jerry_n2zw"
> > To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 8:49 AM
> > Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Keying issue
> >
> >
> > | Hi all,
> > |
> > | Love the kit. Built it, tested it along the way and all tests were
> > good until I got to keying the transmitter into a dummy load at the
> > very end.
> > |
> > | My K2 keyed it fine. My TT2 and GlowBug are not (thought they both
> > output fine into a dummy load directly).
> > |
> > | Symptom is no output, getting good sidetone and the IRF510 (Q17) is
> > getting instantly HOT!
> > |
> > | I have verified components a couple of times, looked at solder
> > joints, etc. I checked all voltages that I could from the schematic
> > (while not keying) and nothing seemed off.
> > |
> > | My guess is that because the TT2 and Glowbug carry more voltage
> > across their 'key inclusive' circuits (not isolated), I must have a
> > short, bad ground or a regulator not working, but not sure how to
> > debug.
> > |
> > | Any help would be appreciated as I am looking to really use this
> > with my TT's, Globugs, etc.
> > |
> > | Thanks.
> > | 73.
> > | Jerry
> > | N2ZW
> > |
> > |
> > |
> > | ------------------------------------
> > |
> > | Yahoo! Groups Links
> > |
> > |
> > |
> >
> >
>

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1321 / Virus Database: 2092/3991 - Release Date: 11/02/11

| 57|51|2011-11-02 21:36:44|jerry_n2zw|Re: Keying issue|

Guys, this is great!

Appreciate both sets of schematics. I came across the Keyall kit, which seems similar if not more robust? Does this compare... is it worth looking at more closely?

What I'm thinking is potentially building something outside the T/R switch to test out and then maybe building it in, so that it's integrated and I am only required to plug in the key directly. Would that make sense?

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "Jake, ON4YZ" wrote:
>
> Please have a look here : http://www.wa2ntk.com/othercircuits.html#CC
>
> < http://www.wa2ntk.com/othercircuits.html#CC>
>
> 73 de Jake, ON4YZ
>
>
>
> De : K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com [mailto:K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com]
> De la part de jerry_n2zw
> Envoyé : mercredi 2 novembre 2011 20:46
> À : K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Keying issue
>
>
>
>
>
> Thank you Terry and Jim.
>
> I think you are right on the keying mechanism for the TT and Glowbug. It
> seems that they were 'shorting' and that would make sense. Looks like I need
> to create an isolation circuit for the rigs, which I saw in some old TT mod
> docs.
>
> Has anyone successfully put either of these rigs.... NorCal TT2 Rev A or the
> original Glowbug 40m on the air with this T/R Switch? Would be interesting
> to see.
>
> Also, question on how to put the 'spot' function in use without the tune.
> Don't need the tune, but would like a momentary spot function.... Do I tie
> pins 1&2 together with the other side of the switch to ground?
>
> Can't wait to get this sorted out and into my matching gray TenTec case!
>
> 72/73,
> Jerry
> N2ZW
>
> --- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
> , Jim Kortge
> wrote:
> >
> > On 11/2/2011 10:15 AM, WA0ITP wrote:
> > > GM Jerry,
> > >
> > > If the MB keyed the K2 properly, it's probably not a MB issue. It
> > > sounds as though your MB is seeing the full power supply voltage from
> > > your Glowbug and Tuna Tin 2, not the keying current. The IRF510 is
> > > rated at 5.6A, 100V and abt a .5 ohm when turned on, and should handle
> > > both of them easily. Check to make sure the Glowbug and TT2 keying
> > > jacks are wired correctly and not providing the full power supply
> > > voltage directly to the key jack. You can also put the positive lead
> > > of an ohmmeter on the keyed line going into the MB and make sure that
> > > line shows zero ohms when keyed, indicating that the 510 is turning on
> > > properly.
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > I love this radio stuff !
> > > 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> > > wa0itp@
> > > www.wa0itp.com
> > > www.4sqrp.com
> > > www.qrpspots.com
> > >
> >
> > Jerry,
> >
> > I think Terry hit the nail on the head. My review of the TT2
> > schematic shows the power to the rig being routed through the key, so
> > if you hook up that rig to the keying lead of the MagicBox, you will
> > be shorting out the power supply to the TT2. I can't find a schematic
> > for the Glowbug rig, but it may well be the same. The MagicBox keying
> > circuit is expecting to ground the keying lead from the transmitter;
> > it is not floating, so can't key a circuit that uses the key as a
> > switch in line with a power supply. That said, it will key any rig
> > where the keying needed requires the key line of the transmitter be
> > taken to ground. It should handle cathode keyed rigs up to the
> > voltage and current levels tolerated by the IRF510.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "jerry_n2zw"
> > > To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > > Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 8:49 AM
> > > Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Keying issue
> > >
> > >
> > > | Hi all,
> > > |
> > > | Love the kit. Built it, tested it along the way and all tests were
> > > good until I got to keying the transmitter into a dummy load at the
> > > very end.
> > > |
> > > | My K2 keyed it fine. My TT2 and GlowBug are not (thought they both
> > > output fine into a dummy load directly).
> > > |
> > > | Symptom is no output, getting good sidetone and the IRF510 (Q17) is
> > > getting instantly HOT!
> > > |
> > > | I have verified components a couple of times, looked at solder
> > > joints, etc. I checked all voltages that I could from the schematic
> > > (while not keying) and nothing seemed off.
> > > |
> > > | My guess is that because the TT2 and Glowbug carry more voltage
> > > across their 'key inclusive' circuits (not isolated), I must have a
> > > short, bad ground or a regulator not working, but not sure how to
> > > debug.
> > > |
> > > | Any help would be appreciated as I am looking to really use this
> > > with my TT's, Globugs, etc.
> > > |
> > > | Thanks.
> > > | 73.
> > > | Jerry
> > > | N2ZW
> > > |
> > > |
> > > |
> > > | ------------------------------------
> > > |
> > > | Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > |
> > > |
> > > |
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
> _____
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1321 / Virus Database: 2092/3991 - Release Date: 11/02/11
>

| 58|51|2011-11-02 21:42:45|WA0ITP|Re: Keying issue|

Done.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge" <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: "jerry_n2zw" <jerry.rosenzweig@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 4:58 PM
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Keying issue

| On 11/2/2011 3:45 PM, jerry_n2zw wrote:
| > Thank you Terry and Jim.
|
| You are welcome Jerry.
|
| >
| > I think you are right on the keying mechanism for the TT and
Glowbug.
|
| I've attached a schematic of some circuitry that you can build to
key
| the TT2 and glowbug rigs if they indeed need their power switched
when
| they are transmitting. The TIP 42 transistor is available at most
| Radio Shacks, so maybe that will help in putting the circuit
together.
|
| It seems that they were 'shorting' and that would make sense.
|
| That would indeed explain the hot IRF510 keying transistor.
|
| Looks like I need to create an isolation circuit for the rigs,
| which I saw in some old TT mod docs.
|
| I've attached what you need in a .pdf file. Hopefully, Terry can
also
| put it up on the MagicBox web page.
|
| >
| > Has anyone successfully put either of these rigs.... NorCal TT2
Rev A or the original Glowbug 40m on the air with this T/R Switch?
|
| I don't know, but would expect if they did, they would need the
| additional circuitry that I've designed for you.
|
| Would be interesting to see.
| >
| > Also, question on how to put the 'spot' function in use without
the tune. Don't need the tune, but would like a momentary spot
function.... Do I tie pins 1&2 together with the other side of the
switch to ground?
|
| I'm unclear to me what it is that you want to do. Normally, the
| "spot" function puts the transmitter on the air so that one can find
| where it is transmitting with the receiver. When doing that, the
| sidetone would also be active so that you can match the receiver
| output audio tone against the internal side tone of the MagicBox.
Is
| that what you want to do? If so, Terry put a small schematic up on
| the photo section of the MagicBox web page showing how to wire up
the
| "SPOT" - "TUNE" switch. Maybe we can move that file to the main
page
| where the other documentation resides.
| >
| > Can't wait to get this sorted out and into my matching gray TenTec
case!
|
| Roger that....I'm anxious to hear how it plays with the glowbug and
| TT2 rigs.
| >
| > 72/73,
| > Jerry
| > N2ZW
|
| 72 and GL Jerry,
|
| Jim, K8IQY
|
|
|
| >
| > --- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
| >>
| >> On 11/2/2011 10:15 AM, WA0ITP wrote:
| >>> GM Jerry,
| >>>
| >>> If the MB keyed the K2 properly, it's probably not a MB issue.
It
| >>> sounds as though your MB is seeing the full power supply voltage
from
| >>> your Glowbug and Tuna Tin 2, not the keying current. The IRF510
is
| >>> rated at 5.6A, 100V and abt a .5 ohm when turned on, and should
handle
| >>> both of them easily. Check to make sure the Glowbug and TT2
keying
| >>> jacks are wired correctly and not providing the full power
supply
| >>> voltage directly to the key jack. You can also put the
positive lead
| >>> of an ohmmeter on the keyed line going into the MB and make sure
that
| >>> line shows zero ohms when keyed, indicating that the 510 is
turning on
| >>> properly.
| >>>
|
>>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
| >>> I love this radio stuff !
| >>> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
| >>> wa0itp@...
| >>> www.wa0itp.com
| >>> www.4sqrp.com
| >>> www.qrpspots.com
| >>>
| >>
| >> Jerry,
| >>
| >> I think Terry hit the nail on the head. My review of the TT2
| >> schematic shows the power to the rig being routed through the
key, so
| >> if you hook up that rig to the keying lead of the MagicBox, you
will
| >> be shorting out the power supply to the TT2. I can't find a
schematic
| >> for the Glowbug rig, but it may well be the same. The MagicBox
keying
| >> circuit is expecting to ground the keying lead from the
transmitter;
| >> it is not floating, so can't key a circuit that uses the key as a
| >> switch in line with a power supply. That said, it will key any
rig
| >> where the keying needed requires the key line of the transmitter
be
| >> taken to ground. It should handle cathode keyed rigs up to the
| >> voltage and current levels tolerated by the IRF510.
| >>
| >> 72,
| >>
| >> Jim, K8IQY
| >>
| >>
| >>>
| >>>
| >>> ----- Original Message -----
| >>> From: "jerry_n2zw"
| >>> To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
| >>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 8:49 AM
| >>> Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Keying issue
| >>>
| >>>
| >>> | Hi all,
| >>> |
| >>> | Love the kit. Built it, tested it along the way and all tests
were
| >>> good until I got to keying the transmitter into a dummy load at
the
| >>> very end.
| >>> |
| >>> | My K2 keyed it fine. My TT2 and GlowBug are not (thought they
both
| >>> output fine into a dummy load directly).
| >>> |
| >>> | Symptom is no output, getting good sidetone and the IRF510
(Q17) is
| >>> getting instantly HOT!
| >>> |
| >>> | I have verified components a couple of times, looked at solder
| >>> joints, etc. I checked all voltages that I could from the
schematic
| >>> (while not keying) and nothing seemed off.
| >>> |
| >>> | My guess is that because the TT2 and Glowbug carry more
voltage
| >>> across their 'key inclusive' circuits (not isolated), I must
have a
| >>> short, bad ground or a regulator not working, but not sure how
to
| >>> debug.
| >>> |
| >>> | Any help would be appreciated as I am looking to really use
this
| >>> with my TT's, Globugs, etc.
| >>> |
| >>> | Thanks.
| >>> | 73.
| >>> | Jerry
| >>> | N2ZW
| >>> |
| >>> |
| >>> |
| >>> | ------------------------------------
| >>> |
| >>> | Yahoo! Groups Links
| >>> |
| >>> |
| >>> |
| >>>
| >>>
| >>
| >
| >
| >
|
|

| 59|51|2011-11-02 22:08:01|Jim Kortge|Re: Keying issue|

On 11/2/2011 9:42 PM, WA0ITP wrote:

> Done.

Thanks Terry.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> wa0itp@wa0itp.com
> www.wa0itp.com
> www.4sqrp.com
> www.qrpspots.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Kortge"<jim.k8iqy@gmail.com>
> To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> Cc: "jerry_n2zw"<jerry.rosenzweig@gmail.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 4:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Keying issue
>
>
> | On 11/2/2011 3:45 PM, jerry_n2zw wrote:
> |> Thank you Terry and Jim.
> |
> | You are welcome Jerry.
> |
> |>
> |> I think you are right on the keying mechanism for the TT and
> Glowbug.
> |
> | I've attached a schematic of some circuitry that you can build to
> key
> | the TT2 and glowbug rigs if they indeed need their power switched
> when
> | they are transmitting. The TIP 42 transistor is available at most
> | Radio Shacks, so maybe that will help in putting the circuit
> together.
> |
> | It seems that they were 'shorting' and that would make sense.
> |
> | That would indeed explain the hot IRF510 keying transistor.
> |
> | Looks like I need to create an isolation circuit for the rigs,
> | which I saw in some old TT mod docs.
> |
> | I've attached what you need in a .pdf file. Hopefully, Terry can
> also
> | put it up on the MagicBox web page.
> |
> |>
> |> Has anyone successfully put either of these rigs.... NorCal TT2
> Rev A or the original Glowbug 40m on the air with this T/R Switch?
> |
> | I don't know, but would expect if they did, they would need the
> | additional circuitry that I've designed for you.
> |
> | Would be interesting to see.
> |>
> |> Also, question on how to put the 'spot' function in use without
> the tune. Don't need the tune, but would like a momentary spot
> function.... Do I tie pins 1&2 together with the other side of the
> switch to ground?
> |
> | I'm unclear to me what it is that you want to do. Normally, the
> | "spot" function puts the transmitter on the air so that one can find
> | where it is transmitting with the receiver. When doing that, the
> | sidetone would also be active so that you can match the receiver
> | output audio tone against the internal side tone of the MagicBox.
> Is
> | that what you want to do? If so, Terry put a small schematic up on
> | the photo section of the MagicBox web page showing how to wire up
> the
> | "SPOT" - "TUNE" switch. Maybe we can move that file to the main
> page
> | where the other documentation resides.
> |>
> |> Can't wait to get this sorted out and into my matching gray TenTec
> case!
> |
> | Roger that....I'm anxious to hear how it plays with the glowbug and
> | TT2 rigs.
> |>
> |> 72/73,
> |> Jerry
> |> N2ZW
> |
> | 72 and GL Jerry,
> |
> | Jim, K8IQY
> |
> |
> |
> |>
> |> --- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
> wrote:
> |>>
> |>> On 11/2/2011 10:15 AM, WA0ITP wrote:
> |>>> GM Jerry,
> |>>>
> |>>> If the MB keyed the K2 properly, it's probably not a MB issue.
> It
> |>>> sounds as though your MB is seeing the full power supply voltage
> from
> |>>> your Glowbug and Tuna Tin 2, not the keying current. The IRF510
> is
> |>>> rated at 5.6A, 100V and abt a .5 ohm when turned on, and should
> handle
> |>>> both of them easily. Check to make sure the Glowbug and TT2
> keying
> |>>> jacks are wired correctly and not providing the full power
> supply
> |>>> voltage directly to the key jack. You can also put the
> positive lead
> |>>> of an ohmmeter on the keyed line going into the MB and make sure
> that
> |>>> line shows zero ohms when keyed, indicating that the 510 is
> turning on
> |>>> properly.
> |>>>
> |
> >>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> |>>> I love this radio stuff !
> |>>> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> |>>> wa0itp@...
> |>>> www.wa0itp.com
> |>>> www.4sqrp.com
> |>>> www.qrpspots.com
> |>>>
> |>>
> |>> Jerry,
> |>>
> |>> I think Terry hit the nail on the head. My review of the TT2
> |>> schematic shows the power to the rig being routed through the
> key, so
> |>> if you hook up that rig to the keying lead of the MagicBox, you
> will
> |>> be shorting out the power supply to the TT2. I can't find a
> schematic
> |>> for the Glowbug rig, but it may well be the same. The MagicBox
> keying
> |>> circuit is expecting to ground the keying lead from the
> transmitter;
> |>> it is not floating, so can't key a circuit that uses the key as a
> |>> switch in line with a power supply. That said, it will key any
> rig
> |>> where the keying needed requires the key line of the transmitter
> be
> |>> taken to ground. It should handle cathode keyed rigs up to the
> |>> voltage and current levels tolerated by the IRF510.
> |>>
> |>> 72,
> |>>
> |>> Jim, K8IQY
> |>>
> |>>
> |>>>
> |>>>
> |>>> ----- Original Message -----
> |>>> From: "jerry_n2zw"
> |>>> To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> |>>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 8:49 AM
> |>>> Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Keying issue
> |>>>
> |>>>
> |>>> | Hi all,
> |>>> |
> |>>> | Love the kit. Built it, tested it along the way and all tests
> were
> |>>> good until I got to keying the transmitter into a dummy load at
> the
> |>>> very end.
> |>>> |
> |>>> | My K2 keyed it fine. My TT2 and GlowBug are not (thought they
> both
> |>>> output fine into a dummy load directly).
> |>>> |
> |>>> | Symptom is no output, getting good sidetone and the IRF510
> (Q17) is
> |>>> getting instantly HOT!
> |>>> |
> |>>> | I have verified components a couple of times, looked at solder
> |>>> joints, etc. I checked all voltages that I could from the
> schematic
> |>>> (while not keying) and nothing seemed off.
> |>>> |
> |>>> | My guess is that because the TT2 and Glowbug carry more
> voltage
> |>>> across their 'key inclusive' circuits (not isolated), I must
> have a
> |>>> short, bad ground or a regulator not working, but not sure how
> to
> |>>> debug.
> |>>> |
> |>>> | Any help would be appreciated as I am looking to really use
> this
> |>>> with my TT's, Globugs, etc.
> |>>> |
> |>>> | Thanks.
> |>>> | 73.
> |>>> | Jerry
> |>>> | N2ZW
> |>>> |
> |>>> |
> |>>> |
> |>>> | ------------------------------------
> |>>> |
> |>>> | Yahoo! Groups Links
> |>>> |
> |>>> |
> |>>> |
> |>>>
> |>>>
> |>>
> |>
> |>
> |>
> |
> |
>
>

| 60|51|2011-11-08 22:11:53|jerry_n2zw|Re: Keying issue - update on progress|

Jim, Terry and guys,

Here are my results...

I built out the circuit provided. It does throw me the 13.8v to the rig, but the issue is that is not what the rigs are looking for... as I realized after I built the circuit.

The rigs are using the keys to close the circuit and are actually in the power loop of the circuit... pin positive and negative to ring. So, as I already had power to the rigs, it was an issue of closing the circuit but not letting the voltage leak back to the Magic Box.

Hope this is making sense from a non-techie...

So, I built the Keyall kit from Jackson Harbor Press. It's a very small board with one IC, one resistor, one capcitory and two electronic relays. It allows me to close/ground any key with no 'feedback'. I've tested it with my TT, Glowbug and K2 successfully.

I've modded the Magic Box to replace the board mounted J9 jack and put the Keyall inline. This save me a separate enclosure and using another patch cable. I'm feeding the Keyall from the same power and switch as the Magic Box. I'm hoping to use the board mount jack flipped upside down with the new wiring running under the board... I'll take pics as soon as I get it all together.

SO, now my one remaining issue is with the Spot/Tune function. I've got the DPDT switch installed. I've got the Tune function working in both on positions. However, I can't hear the bleed through on the receive. Two questions... what resister is actually supposed to be used for R46? I used a 10M initially, which was not in the kit... then saw some posting which said 100? Also, which two pins are pins 1 and 2? I'm following the diagram from the picture post.... just not sure if it's the resistor, the builder (me) or something else.

Thanks.
73
Jerry
N2ZW

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> On 11/2/2011 9:42 PM, WA0ITP wrote:
> > Done.
>
> Thanks Terry.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> > I love this radio stuff !
> > 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> > wa0itp@...
> > www.wa0itp.com
> > www.4sqrp.com
> > www.qrpspots.com
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim Kortge"
> > To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> > Cc: "jerry_n2zw"
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 4:58 PM
> > Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Keying issue
> >
> >
> > | On 11/2/2011 3:45 PM, jerry_n2zw wrote:
> > |> Thank you Terry and Jim.
> > |
> > | You are welcome Jerry.
> > |
> > |>
> > |> I think you are right on the keying mechanism for the TT and
> > Glowbug.
> > |
> > | I've attached a schematic of some circuitry that you can build to
> > key
> > | the TT2 and glowbug rigs if they indeed need their power switched
> > when
> > | they are transmitting. The TIP 42 transistor is available at most
> > | Radio Shacks, so maybe that will help in putting the circuit
> > together.
> > |
> > | It seems that they were 'shorting' and that would make sense.
> > |
> > | That would indeed explain the hot IRF510 keying transistor.
> > |
> > | Looks like I need to create an isolation circuit for the rigs,
> > | which I saw in some old TT mod docs.
> > |
> > | I've attached what you need in a .pdf file. Hopefully, Terry can
> > also
> > | put it up on the MagicBox web page.
> > |
> > |>
> > |> Has anyone successfully put either of these rigs.... NorCal TT2
> > Rev A or the original Glowbug 40m on the air with this T/R Switch?
> > |
> > | I don't know, but would expect if they did, they would need the
> > | additional circuitry that I've designed for you.
> > |
> > | Would be interesting to see.
> > |>
> > |> Also, question on how to put the 'spot' function in use without
> > the tune. Don't need the tune, but would like a momentary spot
> > function.... Do I tie pins 1&2 together with the other side of the
> > switch to ground?
> > |
> > | I'm unclear to me what it is that you want to do. Normally, the
> > | "spot" function puts the transmitter on the air so that one can find
> > | where it is transmitting with the receiver. When doing that, the
> > | sidetone would also be active so that you can match the receiver
> > | output audio tone against the internal side tone of the MagicBox.
> > Is
> > | that what you want to do? If so, Terry put a small schematic up on
> > | the photo section of the MagicBox web page showing how to wire up
> > the
> > | "SPOT" - "TUNE" switch. Maybe we can move that file to the main
> > page
> > | where the other documentation resides.
> > |>
> > |> Can't wait to get this sorted out and into my matching gray TenTec
> > case!
> > |
> > | Roger that....I'm anxious to hear how it plays with the glowbug and
> > | TT2 rigs.
> > |>
> > |> 72/73,
> > |> Jerry
> > |> N2ZW
> > |
> > | 72 and GL Jerry,
> > |
> > | Jim, K8IQY
> > |
> > |
> > |
> > |>
> > |> --- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
> > wrote:
> > |>>
> > |>> On 11/2/2011 10:15 AM, WA0ITP wrote:
> > |>>> GM Jerry,
> > |>>>
> > |>>> If the MB keyed the K2 properly, it's probably not a MB issue.
> > It
> > |>>> sounds as though your MB is seeing the full power supply voltage
> > from
> > |>>> your Glowbug and Tuna Tin 2, not the keying current. The IRF510
> > is
> > |>>> rated at 5.6A, 100V and abt a .5 ohm when turned on, and should
> > handle
> > |>>> both of them easily. Check to make sure the Glowbug and TT2
> > keying
> > |>>> jacks are wired correctly and not providing the full power
> > supply
> > |>>> voltage directly to the key jack. You can also put the
> > positive lead
> > |>>> of an ohmmeter on the keyed line going into the MB and make sure
> > that
> > |>>> line shows zero ohms when keyed, indicating that the 510 is
> > turning on
> > |>>> properly.
> > |>>>
> > |
> > >>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > |>>> I love this radio stuff !
> > |>>> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> > |>>> wa0itp@
> > |>>> www.wa0itp.com
> > |>>> www.4sqrp.com
> > |>>> www.qrpspots.com
> > |>>>
> > |>>
> > |>> Jerry,
> > |>>
> > |>> I think Terry hit the nail on the head. My review of the TT2
> > |>> schematic shows the power to the rig being routed through the
> > key, so
> > |>> if you hook up that rig to the keying lead of the MagicBox, you
> > will
> > |>> be shorting out the power supply to the TT2. I can't find a
> > schematic
> > |>> for the Glowbug rig, but it may well be the same. The MagicBox
> > keying
> > |>> circuit is expecting to ground the keying lead from the
> > transmitter;
> > |>> it is not floating, so can't key a circuit that uses the key as a
> > |>> switch in line with a power supply. That said, it will key any
> > rig
> > |>> where the keying needed requires the key line of the transmitter
> > be
> > |>> taken to ground. It should handle cathode keyed rigs up to the
> > |>> voltage and current levels tolerated by the IRF510.
> > |>>
> > |>> 72,
> > |>>
> > |>> Jim, K8IQY
> > |>>
> > |>>
> > |>>>
> > |>>>
> > |>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > |>>> From: "jerry_n2zw"
> > |>>> To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> > |>>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 8:49 AM
> > |>>> Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Keying issue
> > |>>>
> > |>>>
> > |>>> | Hi all,
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | Love the kit. Built it, tested it along the way and all tests
> > were
> > |>>> good until I got to keying the transmitter into a dummy load at
> > the
> > |>>> very end.
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | My K2 keyed it fine. My TT2 and GlowBug are not (thought they
> > both
> > |>>> output fine into a dummy load directly).
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | Symptom is no output, getting good sidetone and the IRF510
> > (Q17) is
> > |>>> getting instantly HOT!
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | I have verified components a couple of times, looked at solder
> > |>>> joints, etc. I checked all voltages that I could from the
> > schematic
> > |>>> (while not keying) and nothing seemed off.
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | My guess is that because the TT2 and Glowbug carry more
> > voltage
> > |>>> across their 'key inclusive' circuits (not isolated), I must
> > have a
> > |>>> short, bad ground or a regulator not working, but not sure how
> > to
> > |>>> debug.
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | Any help would be appreciated as I am looking to really use
> > this
> > |>>> with my TT's, Globugs, etc.
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | Thanks.
> > |>>> | 73.
> > |>>> | Jerry
> > |>>> | N2ZW
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | ------------------------------------
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | Yahoo! Groups Links
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> |
> > |>>>
> > |>>>
> > |>>
> > |>
> > |>
> > |>
> > |
> > |
> >
> >
>

| 61|51|2011-11-08 22:30:16|WA0ITP|Re: Keying issue - update on progress|

Congratiulations and excellent sleuthing Jerry, Glad you have the MB
working with your rigs. You may have been able to leave the
transmitters keyed with a plug (or jumper the jack) and use Jim's
circuit to do the keying. But I'm glad you found a solution.

For spotting, 100 ohms has been shown to be a good starting point for
R46. The actual resistor value cant be specified exactly for all
setups, there are too many variables, such as receiver sensitivity and
transmitter power, headphone sensitivity, etc. I used 100 ohms in
mine and it works ok, give that a try and see how it plays. If the
spotting tone from the transmitter is too loud increase the value ,and
decrease it if too soft.

For the spotting switch, use a DPDT switch with a center off position
and wire it according to the pictorial at the bottom of the Magic Box
photo page and it will do the job for you.
http://www.wa0itp.com/mbphotopage.html

Your first QSO will feel great! Pse consider checking into the
Wednesdady night Four State Nets on 80M and/or 40M.

Thanx, good luck, and pse keep us posted.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "jerry_n2zw" <jerry.rosenzweig@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2011 9:11 PM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Keying issue - update on progress

Jim, Terry and guys,

Here are my results...

I built out the circuit provided. It does throw me the 13.8v to the
rig, but the issue is that is not what the rigs are looking for... as
I realized after I built the circuit.

The rigs are using the keys to close the circuit and are actually in
the power loop of the circuit... pin positive and negative to ring.
So, as I already had power to the rigs, it was an issue of closing the
circuit but not letting the voltage leak back to the Magic Box.

Hope this is making sense from a non-techie...

So, I built the Keyall kit from Jackson Harbor Press. It's a very
small board with one IC, one resistor, one capcitory and two
electronic relays. It allows me to close/ground any key with no
'feedback'. I've tested it with my TT, Glowbug and K2 successfully.

I've modded the Magic Box to replace the board mounted J9 jack and put
the Keyall inline. This save me a separate enclosure and using
another patch cable. I'm feeding the Keyall from the same power and
switch as the Magic Box. I'm hoping to use the board mount jack
flipped upside down with the new wiring running under the board...
I'll take pics as soon as I get it all together.

SO, now my one remaining issue is with the Spot/Tune function. I've
got the DPDT switch installed. I've got the Tune function working in
both on positions. However, I can't hear the bleed through on the
receive. Two questions... what resister is actually supposed to be
used for R46? I used a 10M initially, which was not in the kit...
then saw some posting which said 100? Also, which two pins are pins 1
and 2? I'm following the diagram from the picture post.... just not
sure if it's the resistor, the builder (me) or something else.

Thanks.
73
Jerry
N2ZW

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
wrote:
>
> On 11/2/2011 9:42 PM, WA0ITP wrote:
> > Done.
>
> Thanks Terry.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> > I love this radio stuff !
> > 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> > wa0itp@...
> > www.wa0itp.com
> > www.4sqrp.com
> > www.qrpspots.com
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim Kortge"
> > To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> > Cc: "jerry_n2zw"
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 4:58 PM
> > Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Keying issue
> >
> >
> > | On 11/2/2011 3:45 PM, jerry_n2zw wrote:
> > |> Thank you Terry and Jim.
> > |
> > | You are welcome Jerry.
> > |
> > |>
> > |> I think you are right on the keying mechanism for the TT and
> > Glowbug.
> > |
> > | I've attached a schematic of some circuitry that you can build
> > to
> > key
> > | the TT2 and glowbug rigs if they indeed need their power
> > switched
> > when
> > | they are transmitting. The TIP 42 transistor is available at
> > most
> > | Radio Shacks, so maybe that will help in putting the circuit
> > together.
> > |
> > | It seems that they were 'shorting' and that would make sense.
> > |
> > | That would indeed explain the hot IRF510 keying transistor.
> > |
> > | Looks like I need to create an isolation circuit for the rigs,
> > | which I saw in some old TT mod docs.
> > |
> > | I've attached what you need in a .pdf file. Hopefully, Terry
> > can
> > also
> > | put it up on the MagicBox web page.
> > |
> > |>
> > |> Has anyone successfully put either of these rigs.... NorCal
> > TT2
> > Rev A or the original Glowbug 40m on the air with this T/R Switch?
> > |
> > | I don't know, but would expect if they did, they would need the
> > | additional circuitry that I've designed for you.
> > |
> > | Would be interesting to see.
> > |>
> > |> Also, question on how to put the 'spot' function in use
> > without
> > the tune. Don't need the tune, but would like a momentary spot
> > function.... Do I tie pins 1&2 together with the other side of the
> > switch to ground?
> > |
> > | I'm unclear to me what it is that you want to do. Normally, the
> > | "spot" function puts the transmitter on the air so that one can
> > find
> > | where it is transmitting with the receiver. When doing that,
> > the
> > | sidetone would also be active so that you can match the receiver
> > | output audio tone against the internal side tone of the
> > MagicBox.
> > Is
> > | that what you want to do? If so, Terry put a small schematic up
> > on
> > | the photo section of the MagicBox web page showing how to wire
> > up
> > the
> > | "SPOT" - "TUNE" switch. Maybe we can move that file to the main
> > page
> > | where the other documentation resides.
> > |>
> > |> Can't wait to get this sorted out and into my matching gray
> > TenTec
> > case!
> > |
> > | Roger that....I'm anxious to hear how it plays with the glowbug
> > and
> > | TT2 rigs.
> > |>
> > |> 72/73,
> > |> Jerry
> > |> N2ZW
> > |
> > | 72 and GL Jerry,
> > |
> > | Jim, K8IQY
> > |
> > |
> > |
> > |>
> > |> --- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
> > wrote:
> > |>>
> > |>> On 11/2/2011 10:15 AM, WA0ITP wrote:
> > |>>> GM Jerry,
> > |>>>
> > |>>> If the MB keyed the K2 properly, it's probably not a MB
> > issue.
> > It
> > |>>> sounds as though your MB is seeing the full power supply
> > voltage
> > from
> > |>>> your Glowbug and Tuna Tin 2, not the keying current. The
> > IRF510
> > is
> > |>>> rated at 5.6A, 100V and abt a .5 ohm when turned on, and
> > should
> > handle
> > |>>> both of them easily. Check to make sure the Glowbug and TT2
> > keying
> > |>>> jacks are wired correctly and not providing the full power
> > supply
> > |>>> voltage directly to the key jack. You can also put the
> > positive lead
> > |>>> of an ohmmeter on the keyed line going into the MB and make
> > sure
> > that
> > |>>> line shows zero ohms when keyed, indicating that the 510 is
> > turning on
> > |>>> properly.
> > |>>>
> > |
> >
> > >>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > |>>> I love this radio stuff !
> > |>>> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> > |>>> wa0itp@
> > |>>> www.wa0itp.com
> > |>>> www.4sqrp.com
> > |>>> www.qrpspots.com
> > |>>>
> > |>>
> > |>> Jerry,
> > |>>
> > |>> I think Terry hit the nail on the head. My review of the TT2
> > |>> schematic shows the power to the rig being routed through the
> > key, so
> > |>> if you hook up that rig to the keying lead of the MagicBox,
> > you
> > will
> > |>> be shorting out the power supply to the TT2. I can't find a
> > schematic
> > |>> for the Glowbug rig, but it may well be the same. The
> > MagicBox
> > keying
> > |>> circuit is expecting to ground the keying lead from the
> > transmitter;
> > |>> it is not floating, so can't key a circuit that uses the key
> > as a
> > |>> switch in line with a power supply. That said, it will key
> > any
> > rig
> > |>> where the keying needed requires the key line of the
> > transmitter
> > be
> > |>> taken to ground. It should handle cathode keyed rigs up to
> > the
> > |>> voltage and current levels tolerated by the IRF510.
> > |>>
> > |>> 72,
> > |>>
> > |>> Jim, K8IQY
> > |>>
> > |>>
> > |>>>
> > |>>>
> > |>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > |>>> From: "jerry_n2zw"
> > |>>> To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> > |>>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 8:49 AM
> > |>>> Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Keying issue
> > |>>>
> > |>>>
> > |>>> | Hi all,
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | Love the kit. Built it, tested it along the way and all
> > tests
> > were
> > |>>> good until I got to keying the transmitter into a dummy load
> > at
> > the
> > |>>> very end.
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | My K2 keyed it fine. My TT2 and GlowBug are not (thought
> > they
> > both
> > |>>> output fine into a dummy load directly).
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | Symptom is no output, getting good sidetone and the IRF510
> > (Q17) is
> > |>>> getting instantly HOT!
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | I have verified components a couple of times, looked at
> > solder
> > |>>> joints, etc. I checked all voltages that I could from the
> > schematic
> > |>>> (while not keying) and nothing seemed off.
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | My guess is that because the TT2 and Glowbug carry more
> > voltage
> > |>>> across their 'key inclusive' circuits (not isolated), I must
> > have a
> > |>>> short, bad ground or a regulator not working, but not sure
> > how
> > to
> > |>>> debug.
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | Any help would be appreciated as I am looking to really
> > use
> > this
> > |>>> with my TT's, Globugs, etc.
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | Thanks.
> > |>>> | 73.
> > |>>> | Jerry
> > |>>> | N2ZW
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | ------------------------------------
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> | Yahoo! Groups Links
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> |
> > |>>> |
> > |>>>
> > |>>>
> > |>>
> > |>
> > |>
> > |>
> > |
> > |
> >
> >
>

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

| 62|51|2011-11-08 22:47:03|jerry_n2zw|Re: Keying issue - update on progress|

Terry,

Thanks for all the help. I really like learning through projects.

LOL. I think you are right about the keying if I just 'closed' the key jack, I could have probably just fed the power via the keying circuit... at least for the TT. The Glowbug is showing something like 20+ volts, so not sure that would have worked? My K2 is just happy to be keyed and it works no matter what I do ... even when my keying is bad... HI.

With regard to the resister and spotting... I don't hear any receive when I flip the DPDT to 'spot'. My resister is 100 ohms now and I've just been testing with a small speaker. I saw some folks had put in some PCB mounted pin jacks so they could swap resistors around... makes sense now. I'm guessing from pics that I've got the correct pin 1 and 2 (left two with the board facing up), so do I need to increase resistance to get the receive audio to bleed through? ... or am I actually reducing the sidetone with the R46 change?

Finally, I'll try to make it a point to check in on a net sometime. Thank you for the invite.

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "WA0ITP" wrote:
>
> Congratiulations and excellent sleuthing Jerry, Glad you have the MB
> working with your rigs. You may have been able to leave the
> transmitters keyed with a plug (or jumper the jack) and use Jim's
> circuit to do the keying. But I'm glad you found a solution.
>
> For spotting, 100 ohms has been shown to be a good starting point for
> R46. The actual resistor value cant be specified exactly for all
> setups, there are too many variables, such as receiver sensitivity and
> transmitter power, headphone sensitivity, etc. I used 100 ohms in
> mine and it works ok, give that a try and see how it plays. If the
> spotting tone from the transmitter is too loud increase the value ,and
> decrease it if too soft.
>
> For the spotting switch, use a DPDT switch with a center off position
> and wire it according to the pictorial at the bottom of the Magic Box
> photo page and it will do the job for you.
> http://www.wa0itp.com/mbphotopage.html
>
> Your first QSO will feel great! Pse consider checking into the
> Wednesdady night Four State Nets on 80M and/or 40M.
>
> Thanx, good luck, and pse keep us posted.
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> wa0itp@...
> www.wa0itp.com
> www.4sqrp.com
> www.qrpspots.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jerry_n2zw"
> To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2011 9:11 PM
> Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Keying issue - update on progress
>
>
> Jim, Terry and guys,
>
> Here are my results...
>
> I built out the circuit provided. It does throw me the 13.8v to the
> rig, but the issue is that is not what the rigs are looking for... as
> I realized after I built the circuit.
>
> The rigs are using the keys to close the circuit and are actually in
> the power loop of the circuit... pin positive and negative to ring.
> So, as I already had power to the rigs, it was an issue of closing the
> circuit but not letting the voltage leak back to the Magic Box.
>
> Hope this is making sense from a non-techie...
>
> So, I built the Keyall kit from Jackson Harbor Press. It's a very
> small board with one IC, one resistor, one capcitory and two
> electronic relays. It allows me to close/ground any key with no
> 'feedback'. I've tested it with my TT, Glowbug and K2 successfully.
>
> I've modded the Magic Box to replace the board mounted J9 jack and put
> the Keyall inline. This save me a separate enclosure and using
> another patch cable. I'm feeding the Keyall from the same power and
> switch as the Magic Box. I'm hoping to use the board mount jack
> flipped upside down with the new wiring running under the board...
> I'll take pics as soon as I get it all together.
>
> SO, now my one remaining issue is with the Spot/Tune function. I've
> got the DPDT switch installed. I've got the Tune function working in
> both on positions. However, I can't hear the bleed through on the
> receive. Two questions... what resister is actually supposed to be
> used for R46? I used a 10M initially, which was not in the kit...
> then saw some posting which said 100? Also, which two pins are pins 1
> and 2? I'm following the diagram from the picture post.... just not
> sure if it's the resistor, the builder (me) or something else.
>
> Thanks.
> 73
> Jerry
> N2ZW
>
>
> --- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
> wrote:
> >
> > On 11/2/2011 9:42 PM, WA0ITP wrote:
> > > Done.
> >
> > Thanks Terry.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> > > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> > > I love this radio stuff !
> > > 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> > > wa0itp@
> > > www.wa0itp.com
> > > www.4sqrp.com
> > > www.qrpspots.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Jim Kortge"
> > > To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Cc: "jerry_n2zw"
> > > Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 4:58 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Keying issue
> > >
> > >
> > > | On 11/2/2011 3:45 PM, jerry_n2zw wrote:
> > > |> Thank you Terry and Jim.
> > > |
> > > | You are welcome Jerry.
> > > |
> > > |>
> > > |> I think you are right on the keying mechanism for the TT and
> > > Glowbug.
> > > |
> > > | I've attached a schematic of some circuitry that you can build
> > > to
> > > key
> > > | the TT2 and glowbug rigs if they indeed need their power
> > > switched
> > > when
> > > | they are transmitting. The TIP 42 transistor is available at
> > > most
> > > | Radio Shacks, so maybe that will help in putting the circuit
> > > together.
> > > |
> > > | It seems that they were 'shorting' and that would make sense.
> > > |
> > > | That would indeed explain the hot IRF510 keying transistor.
> > > |
> > > | Looks like I need to create an isolation circuit for the rigs,
> > > | which I saw in some old TT mod docs.
> > > |
> > > | I've attached what you need in a .pdf file. Hopefully, Terry
> > > can
> > > also
> > > | put it up on the MagicBox web page.
> > > |
> > > |>
> > > |> Has anyone successfully put either of these rigs.... NorCal
> > > TT2
> > > Rev A or the original Glowbug 40m on the air with this T/R Switch?
> > > |
> > > | I don't know, but would expect if they did, they would need the
> > > | additional circuitry that I've designed for you.
> > > |
> > > | Would be interesting to see.
> > > |>
> > > |> Also, question on how to put the 'spot' function in use
> > > without
> > > the tune. Don't need the tune, but would like a momentary spot
> > > function.... Do I tie pins 1&2 together with the other side of the
> > > switch to ground?
> > > |
> > > | I'm unclear to me what it is that you want to do. Normally, the
> > > | "spot" function puts the transmitter on the air so that one can
> > > find
> > > | where it is transmitting with the receiver. When doing that,
> > > the
> > > | sidetone would also be active so that you can match the receiver
> > > | output audio tone against the internal side tone of the
> > > MagicBox.
> > > Is
> > > | that what you want to do? If so, Terry put a small schematic up
> > > on
> > > | the photo section of the MagicBox web page showing how to wire
> > > up
> > > the
> > > | "SPOT" - "TUNE" switch. Maybe we can move that file to the main
> > > page
> > > | where the other documentation resides.
> > > |>
> > > |> Can't wait to get this sorted out and into my matching gray
> > > TenTec
> > > case!
> > > |
> > > | Roger that....I'm anxious to hear how it plays with the glowbug
> > > and
> > > | TT2 rigs.
> > > |>
> > > |> 72/73,
> > > |> Jerry
> > > |> N2ZW
> > > |
> > > | 72 and GL Jerry,
> > > |
> > > | Jim, K8IQY
> > > |
> > > |
> > > |
> > > |>
> > > |> --- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
> > > wrote:
> > > |>>
> > > |>> On 11/2/2011 10:15 AM, WA0ITP wrote:
> > > |>>> GM Jerry,
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>> If the MB keyed the K2 properly, it's probably not a MB
> > > issue.
> > > It
> > > |>>> sounds as though your MB is seeing the full power supply
> > > voltage
> > > from
> > > |>>> your Glowbug and Tuna Tin 2, not the keying current. The
> > > IRF510
> > > is
> > > |>>> rated at 5.6A, 100V and abt a .5 ohm when turned on, and
> > > should
> > > handle
> > > |>>> both of them easily. Check to make sure the Glowbug and TT2
> > > keying
> > > |>>> jacks are wired correctly and not providing the full power
> > > supply
> > > |>>> voltage directly to the key jack. You can also put the
> > > positive lead
> > > |>>> of an ohmmeter on the keyed line going into the MB and make
> > > sure
> > > that
> > > |>>> line shows zero ohms when keyed, indicating that the 510 is
> > > turning on
> > > |>>> properly.
> > > |>>>
> > > |
> > >
> > > >>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > |>>> I love this radio stuff !
> > > |>>> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> > > |>>> wa0itp@
> > > |>>> www.wa0itp.com
> > > |>>> www.4sqrp.com
> > > |>>> www.qrpspots.com
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>
> > > |>> Jerry,
> > > |>>
> > > |>> I think Terry hit the nail on the head. My review of the TT2
> > > |>> schematic shows the power to the rig being routed through the
> > > key, so
> > > |>> if you hook up that rig to the keying lead of the MagicBox,
> > > you
> > > will
> > > |>> be shorting out the power supply to the TT2. I can't find a
> > > schematic
> > > |>> for the Glowbug rig, but it may well be the same. The
> > > MagicBox
> > > keying
> > > |>> circuit is expecting to ground the keying lead from the
> > > transmitter;
> > > |>> it is not floating, so can't key a circuit that uses the key
> > > as a
> > > |>> switch in line with a power supply. That said, it will key
> > > any
> > > rig
> > > |>> where the keying needed requires the key line of the
> > > transmitter
> > > be
> > > |>> taken to ground. It should handle cathode keyed rigs up to
> > > the
> > > |>> voltage and current levels tolerated by the IRF510.
> > > |>>
> > > |>> 72,
> > > |>>
> > > |>> Jim, K8IQY
> > > |>>
> > > |>>
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > > |>>> From: "jerry_n2zw"
> > > |>>> To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> > > |>>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 8:49 AM
> > > |>>> Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Keying issue
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>> | Hi all,
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | Love the kit. Built it, tested it along the way and all
> > > tests
> > > were
> > > |>>> good until I got to keying the transmitter into a dummy load
> > > at
> > > the
> > > |>>> very end.
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | My K2 keyed it fine. My TT2 and GlowBug are not (thought
> > > they
> > > both
> > > |>>> output fine into a dummy load directly).
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | Symptom is no output, getting good sidetone and the IRF510
> > > (Q17) is
> > > |>>> getting instantly HOT!
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | I have verified components a couple of times, looked at
> > > solder
> > > |>>> joints, etc. I checked all voltages that I could from the
> > > schematic
> > > |>>> (while not keying) and nothing seemed off.
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | My guess is that because the TT2 and Glowbug carry more
> > > voltage
> > > |>>> across their 'key inclusive' circuits (not isolated), I must
> > > have a
> > > |>>> short, bad ground or a regulator not working, but not sure
> > > how
> > > to
> > > |>>> debug.
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | Any help would be appreciated as I am looking to really
> > > use
> > > this
> > > |>>> with my TT's, Globugs, etc.
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | Thanks.
> > > |>>> | 73.
> > > |>>> | Jerry
> > > |>>> | N2ZW
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | ------------------------------------
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>
> > > |>
> > > |>
> > > |>
> > > |
> > > |
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

| 63|51|2011-11-09 00:24:39|jerry_n2zw|Re: Keying issue - update on progress|

Making progress.

Have the DPDT switch installed and working. However, my audio bleed through sounds terrible and very low...EVEN after I just installed a jumper at R46 after having gone from 100 ohms down to 10 and then giving up. Is it even safe to run this with a jumper instead of resistor?

I've also had to adjust my sidetone to almost off as well to barely hear the audio come through while in the 'spot' position.

When in the off position, the audio is booming in, so not sure if this normal behaviour or I have a bug somewhere. Everything else seems to be working fine.

73 fer nw.
Jerry
N2ZW

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "jerry_n2zw" wrote:
>
> Terry,
>
> Thanks for all the help. I really like learning through projects.
>
> LOL. I think you are right about the keying if I just 'closed' the key jack, I could have probably just fed the power via the keying circuit... at least for the TT. The Glowbug is showing something like 20+ volts, so not sure that would have worked? My K2 is just happy to be keyed and it works no matter what I do ... even when my keying is bad... HI.
>
> With regard to the resister and spotting... I don't hear any receive when I flip the DPDT to 'spot'. My resister is 100 ohms now and I've just been testing with a small speaker. I saw some folks had put in some PCB mounted pin jacks so they could swap resistors around... makes sense now. I'm guessing from pics that I've got the correct pin 1 and 2 (left two with the board facing up), so do I need to increase resistance to get the receive audio to bleed through? ... or am I actually reducing the sidetone with the R46 change?
>
> Finally, I'll try to make it a point to check in on a net sometime. Thank you for the invite.
>
>
> --- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "WA0ITP" wrote:
> >
> > Congratiulations and excellent sleuthing Jerry, Glad you have the MB
> > working with your rigs. You may have been able to leave the
> > transmitters keyed with a plug (or jumper the jack) and use Jim's
> > circuit to do the keying. But I'm glad you found a solution.
> >
> > For spotting, 100 ohms has been shown to be a good starting point for
> > R46. The actual resistor value cant be specified exactly for all
> > setups, there are too many variables, such as receiver sensitivity and
> > transmitter power, headphone sensitivity, etc. I used 100 ohms in
> > mine and it works ok, give that a try and see how it plays. If the
> > spotting tone from the transmitter is too loud increase the value ,and
> > decrease it if too soft.
> >
> > For the spotting switch, use a DPDT switch with a center off position
> > and wire it according to the pictorial at the bottom of the Magic Box
> > photo page and it will do the job for you.
> > http://www.wa0itp.com/mbphotopage.html
> >
> > Your first QSO will feel great! Pse consider checking into the
> > Wednesdady night Four State Nets on 80M and/or 40M.
> >
> > Thanx, good luck, and pse keep us posted.
> > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> > I love this radio stuff !
> > 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> > wa0itp@
> > www.wa0itp.com
> > www.4sqrp.com
> > www.qrpspots.com
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "jerry_n2zw"
> > To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2011 9:11 PM
> > Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Keying issue - update on progress
> >
> >
> > Jim, Terry and guys,
> >
> > Here are my results...
> >
> > I built out the circuit provided. It does throw me the 13.8v to the
> > rig, but the issue is that is not what the rigs are looking for... as
> > I realized after I built the circuit.
> >
> > The rigs are using the keys to close the circuit and are actually in
> > the power loop of the circuit... pin positive and negative to ring.
> > So, as I already had power to the rigs, it was an issue of closing the
> > circuit but not letting the voltage leak back to the Magic Box.
> >
> > Hope this is making sense from a non-techie...
> >
> > So, I built the Keyall kit from Jackson Harbor Press. It's a very
> > small board with one IC, one resistor, one capcitory and two
> > electronic relays. It allows me to close/ground any key with no
> > 'feedback'. I've tested it with my TT, Glowbug and K2 successfully.
> >
> > I've modded the Magic Box to replace the board mounted J9 jack and put
> > the Keyall inline. This save me a separate enclosure and using
> > another patch cable. I'm feeding the Keyall from the same power and
> > switch as the Magic Box. I'm hoping to use the board mount jack
> > flipped upside down with the new wiring running under the board...
> > I'll take pics as soon as I get it all together.
> >
> > SO, now my one remaining issue is with the Spot/Tune function. I've
> > got the DPDT switch installed. I've got the Tune function working in
> > both on positions. However, I can't hear the bleed through on the
> > receive. Two questions... what resister is actually supposed to be
> > used for R46? I used a 10M initially, which was not in the kit...
> > then saw some posting which said 100? Also, which two pins are pins 1
> > and 2? I'm following the diagram from the picture post.... just not
> > sure if it's the resistor, the builder (me) or something else.
> >
> > Thanks.
> > 73
> > Jerry
> > N2ZW
> >
> >
> > --- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > On 11/2/2011 9:42 PM, WA0ITP wrote:
> > > > Done.
> > >
> > > Thanks Terry.
> > >
> > > 72,
> > >
> > > Jim, K8IQY
> > >
> > >
> > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> > > > I love this radio stuff !
> > > > 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> > > > wa0itp@
> > > > www.wa0itp.com
> > > > www.4sqrp.com
> > > > www.qrpspots.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Jim Kortge"
> > > > To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Cc: "jerry_n2zw"
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 4:58 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Keying issue
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > | On 11/2/2011 3:45 PM, jerry_n2zw wrote:
> > > > |> Thank you Terry and Jim.
> > > > |
> > > > | You are welcome Jerry.
> > > > |
> > > > |>
> > > > |> I think you are right on the keying mechanism for the TT and
> > > > Glowbug.
> > > > |
> > > > | I've attached a schematic of some circuitry that you can build
> > > > to
> > > > key
> > > > | the TT2 and glowbug rigs if they indeed need their power
> > > > switched
> > > > when
> > > > | they are transmitting. The TIP 42 transistor is available at
> > > > most
> > > > | Radio Shacks, so maybe that will help in putting the circuit
> > > > together.
> > > > |
> > > > | It seems that they were 'shorting' and that would make sense.
> > > > |
> > > > | That would indeed explain the hot IRF510 keying transistor.
> > > > |
> > > > | Looks like I need to create an isolation circuit for the rigs,
> > > > | which I saw in some old TT mod docs.
> > > > |
> > > > | I've attached what you need in a .pdf file. Hopefully, Terry
> > > > can
> > > > also
> > > > | put it up on the MagicBox web page.
> > > > |
> > > > |>
> > > > |> Has anyone successfully put either of these rigs.... NorCal
> > > > TT2
> > > > Rev A or the original Glowbug 40m on the air with this T/R Switch?
> > > > |
> > > > | I don't know, but would expect if they did, they would need the
> > > > | additional circuitry that I've designed for you.
> > > > |
> > > > | Would be interesting to see.
> > > > |>
> > > > |> Also, question on how to put the 'spot' function in use
> > > > without
> > > > the tune. Don't need the tune, but would like a momentary spot
> > > > function.... Do I tie pins 1&2 together with the other side of the
> > > > switch to ground?
> > > > |
> > > > | I'm unclear to me what it is that you want to do. Normally, the
> > > > | "spot" function puts the transmitter on the air so that one can
> > > > find
> > > > | where it is transmitting with the receiver. When doing that,
> > > > the
> > > > | sidetone would also be active so that you can match the receiver
> > > > | output audio tone against the internal side tone of the
> > > > MagicBox.
> > > > Is
> > > > | that what you want to do? If so, Terry put a small schematic up
> > > > on
> > > > | the photo section of the MagicBox web page showing how to wire
> > > > up
> > > > the
> > > > | "SPOT" - "TUNE" switch. Maybe we can move that file to the main
> > > > page
> > > > | where the other documentation resides.
> > > > |>
> > > > |> Can't wait to get this sorted out and into my matching gray
> > > > TenTec
> > > > case!
> > > > |
> > > > | Roger that....I'm anxious to hear how it plays with the glowbug
> > > > and
> > > > | TT2 rigs.
> > > > |>
> > > > |> 72/73,
> > > > |> Jerry
> > > > |> N2ZW
> > > > |
> > > > | 72 and GL Jerry,
> > > > |
> > > > | Jim, K8IQY
> > > > |
> > > > |
> > > > |
> > > > |>
> > > > |> --- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
> > > > wrote:
> > > > |>>
> > > > |>> On 11/2/2011 10:15 AM, WA0ITP wrote:
> > > > |>>> GM Jerry,
> > > > |>>>
> > > > |>>> If the MB keyed the K2 properly, it's probably not a MB
> > > > issue.
> > > > It
> > > > |>>> sounds as though your MB is seeing the full power supply
> > > > voltage
> > > > from
> > > > |>>> your Glowbug and Tuna Tin 2, not the keying current. The
> > > > IRF510
> > > > is
> > > > |>>> rated at 5.6A, 100V and abt a .5 ohm when turned on, and
> > > > should
> > > > handle
> > > > |>>> both of them easily. Check to make sure the Glowbug and TT2
> > > > keying
> > > > |>>> jacks are wired correctly and not providing the full power
> > > > supply
> > > > |>>> voltage directly to the key jack. You can also put the
> > > > positive lead
> > > > |>>> of an ohmmeter on the keyed line going into the MB and make
> > > > sure
> > > > that
> > > > |>>> line shows zero ohms when keyed, indicating that the 510 is
> > > > turning on
> > > > |>>> properly.
> > > > |>>>
> > > > |
> > > >
> > > > >>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > |>>> I love this radio stuff !
> > > > |>>> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> > > > |>>> wa0itp@
> > > > |>>> www.wa0itp.com
> > > > |>>> www.4sqrp.com
> > > > |>>> www.qrpspots.com
> > > > |>>>
> > > > |>>
> > > > |>> Jerry,
> > > > |>>
> > > > |>> I think Terry hit the nail on the head. My review of the TT2
> > > > |>> schematic shows the power to the rig being routed through the
> > > > key, so
> > > > |>> if you hook up that rig to the keying lead of the MagicBox,
> > > > you
> > > > will
> > > > |>> be shorting out the power supply to the TT2. I can't find a
> > > > schematic
> > > > |>> for the Glowbug rig, but it may well be the same. The
> > > > MagicBox
> > > > keying
> > > > |>> circuit is expecting to ground the keying lead from the
> > > > transmitter;
> > > > |>> it is not floating, so can't key a circuit that uses the key
> > > > as a
> > > > |>> switch in line with a power supply. That said, it will key
> > > > any
> > > > rig
> > > > |>> where the keying needed requires the key line of the
> > > > transmitter
> > > > be
> > > > |>> taken to ground. It should handle cathode keyed rigs up to
> > > > the
> > > > |>> voltage and current levels tolerated by the IRF510.
> > > > |>>
> > > > |>> 72,
> > > > |>>
> > > > |>> Jim, K8IQY
> > > > |>>
> > > > |>>
> > > > |>>>
> > > > |>>>
> > > > |>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > > > |>>> From: "jerry_n2zw"
> > > > |>>> To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> > > > |>>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 8:49 AM
> > > > |>>> Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Keying issue
> > > > |>>>
> > > > |>>>
> > > > |>>> | Hi all,
> > > > |>>> |
> > > > |>>> | Love the kit. Built it, tested it along the way and all
> > > > tests
> > > > were
> > > > |>>> good until I got to keying the transmitter into a dummy load
> > > > at
> > > > the
> > > > |>>> very end.
> > > > |>>> |
> > > > |>>> | My K2 keyed it fine. My TT2 and GlowBug are not (thought
> > > > they
> > > > both
> > > > |>>> output fine into a dummy load directly).
> > > > |>>> |
> > > > |>>> | Symptom is no output, getting good sidetone and the IRF510
> > > > (Q17) is
> > > > |>>> getting instantly HOT!
> > > > |>>> |
> > > > |>>> | I have verified components a couple of times, looked at
> > > > solder
> > > > |>>> joints, etc. I checked all voltages that I could from the
> > > > schematic
> > > > |>>> (while not keying) and nothing seemed off.
> > > > |>>> |
> > > > |>>> | My guess is that because the TT2 and Glowbug carry more
> > > > voltage
> > > > |>>> across their 'key inclusive' circuits (not isolated), I must
> > > > have a
> > > > |>>> short, bad ground or a regulator not working, but not sure
> > > > how
> > > > to
> > > > |>>> debug.
> > > > |>>> |
> > > > |>>> | Any help would be appreciated as I am looking to really
> > > > use
> > > > this
> > > > |>>> with my TT's, Globugs, etc.
> > > > |>>> |
> > > > |>>> | Thanks.
> > > > |>>> | 73.
> > > > |>>> | Jerry
> > > > |>>> | N2ZW
> > > > |>>> |
> > > > |>>> |
> > > > |>>> |
> > > > |>>> | ------------------------------------
> > > > |>>> |
> > > > |>>> | Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > > |>>> |
> > > > |>>> |
> > > > |>>> |
> > > > |>>>
> > > > |>>>
> > > > |>>
> > > > |>
> > > > |>
> > > > |>
> > > > |
> > > > |
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>

| 64|64|2011-11-09 10:06:49|WA0ITP|Re: Spotting|

GM Jerry,

You should be hearing only the sidetone generated by the audio
oscillator Q14, and a small amount of transmitter signal bled into J6
via R46.

I've uploaded a sketch of the header pin numbers to the photo page.

Hope this helps.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "jerry_n2zw" <jerry.rosenzweig@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2011 9:47 PM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Keying issue - update on progress

Terry,

Thanks for all the help. I really like learning through projects.

LOL. I think you are right about the keying if I just 'closed' the
key jack, I could have probably just fed the power via the keying
circuit... at least for the TT. The Glowbug is showing something like
20+ volts, so not sure that would have worked? My K2 is just happy to
be keyed and it works no matter what I do ... even when my keying is
bad... HI.

With regard to the resister and spotting... I don't hear any receive
when I flip the DPDT to 'spot'. My resister is 100 ohms now and I've
just been testing with a small speaker. I saw some folks had put in
some PCB mounted pin jacks so they could swap resistors around...
makes sense now. I'm guessing from pics that I've got the correct pin
1 and 2 (left two with the board facing up), so do I need to increase
resistance to get the receive audio to bleed through? ... or am I
actually reducing the sidetone with the R46 change?

Finally, I'll try to make it a point to check in on a net sometime.
Thank you for the invite.

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "WA0ITP" wrote:
>
> Congratiulations and excellent sleuthing Jerry, Glad you have the
> MB
> working with your rigs. You may have been able to leave the
> transmitters keyed with a plug (or jumper the jack) and use Jim's
> circuit to do the keying. But I'm glad you found a solution.
>
> For spotting, 100 ohms has been shown to be a good starting point
> for
> R46. The actual resistor value cant be specified exactly for all
> setups, there are too many variables, such as receiver sensitivity
> and
> transmitter power, headphone sensitivity, etc. I used 100 ohms in
> mine and it works ok, give that a try and see how it plays. If the
> spotting tone from the transmitter is too loud increase the value
> ,and
> decrease it if too soft.
>
> For the spotting switch, use a DPDT switch with a center off
> position
> and wire it according to the pictorial at the bottom of the Magic
> Box
> photo page and it will do the job for you.
> http://www.wa0itp.com/mbphotopage.html
>
> Your first QSO will feel great! Pse consider checking into the
> Wednesdady night Four State Nets on 80M and/or 40M.
>
> Thanx, good luck, and pse keep us posted.
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> wa0itp@...
> www.wa0itp.com
> www.4sqrp.com
> www.qrpspots.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jerry_n2zw"
> To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2011 9:11 PM
> Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Keying issue - update on progress
>
>
> Jim, Terry and guys,
>
> Here are my results...
>
> I built out the circuit provided. It does throw me the 13.8v to the
> rig, but the issue is that is not what the rigs are looking for...
> as
> I realized after I built the circuit.
>
> The rigs are using the keys to close the circuit and are actually in
> the power loop of the circuit... pin positive and negative to ring.
> So, as I already had power to the rigs, it was an issue of closing
> the
> circuit but not letting the voltage leak back to the Magic Box.
>
> Hope this is making sense from a non-techie...
>
> So, I built the Keyall kit from Jackson Harbor Press. It's a very
> small board with one IC, one resistor, one capcitory and two
> electronic relays. It allows me to close/ground any key with no
> 'feedback'. I've tested it with my TT, Glowbug and K2 successfully.
>
> I've modded the Magic Box to replace the board mounted J9 jack and
> put
> the Keyall inline. This save me a separate enclosure and using
> another patch cable. I'm feeding the Keyall from the same power and
> switch as the Magic Box. I'm hoping to use the board mount jack
> flipped upside down with the new wiring running under the board...
> I'll take pics as soon as I get it all together.
>
> SO, now my one remaining issue is with the Spot/Tune function. I've
> got the DPDT switch installed. I've got the Tune function working
> in
> both on positions. However, I can't hear the bleed through on the
> receive. Two questions... what resister is actually supposed to be
> used for R46? I used a 10M initially, which was not in the kit...
> then saw some posting which said 100? Also, which two pins are pins
> 1
> and 2? I'm following the diagram from the picture post.... just not
> sure if it's the resistor, the builder (me) or something else.
>
> Thanks.
> 73
> Jerry
> N2ZW
>
>
> --- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge
> wrote:
> >
> > On 11/2/2011 9:42 PM, WA0ITP wrote:
> > > Done.
> >
> > Thanks Terry.
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> >
> >
> > > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> > > I love this radio stuff !
> > > 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> > > wa0itp@
> > > www.wa0itp.com
> > > www.4sqrp.com
> > > www.qrpspots.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Jim Kortge"
> > > To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Cc: "jerry_n2zw"
> > > Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 4:58 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Keying issue
> > >
> > >
> > > | On 11/2/2011 3:45 PM, jerry_n2zw wrote:
> > > |> Thank you Terry and Jim.
> > > |
> > > | You are welcome Jerry.
> > > |
> > > |>
> > > |> I think you are right on the keying mechanism for the TT and
> > > Glowbug.
> > > |
> > > | I've attached a schematic of some circuitry that you can build
> > > to
> > > key
> > > | the TT2 and glowbug rigs if they indeed need their power
> > > switched
> > > when
> > > | they are transmitting. The TIP 42 transistor is available at
> > > most
> > > | Radio Shacks, so maybe that will help in putting the circuit
> > > together.
> > > |
> > > | It seems that they were 'shorting' and that would make sense.
> > > |
> > > | That would indeed explain the hot IRF510 keying transistor.
> > > |
> > > | Looks like I need to create an isolation circuit for the
> > > rigs,
> > > | which I saw in some old TT mod docs.
> > > |
> > > | I've attached what you need in a .pdf file. Hopefully, Terry
> > > can
> > > also
> > > | put it up on the MagicBox web page.
> > > |
> > > |>
> > > |> Has anyone successfully put either of these rigs.... NorCal
> > > TT2
> > > Rev A or the original Glowbug 40m on the air with this T/R
> > > Switch?
> > > |
> > > | I don't know, but would expect if they did, they would need
> > > the
> > > | additional circuitry that I've designed for you.
> > > |
> > > | Would be interesting to see.
> > > |>
> > > |> Also, question on how to put the 'spot' function in use
> > > without
> > > the tune. Don't need the tune, but would like a momentary spot
> > > function.... Do I tie pins 1&2 together with the other side of
> > > the
> > > switch to ground?
> > > |
> > > | I'm unclear to me what it is that you want to do. Normally,
> > > the
> > > | "spot" function puts the transmitter on the air so that one
> > > can
> > > find
> > > | where it is transmitting with the receiver. When doing that,
> > > the
> > > | sidetone would also be active so that you can match the
> > > receiver
> > > | output audio tone against the internal side tone of the
> > > MagicBox.
> > > Is
> > > | that what you want to do? If so, Terry put a small schematic
> > > up
> > > on
> > > | the photo section of the MagicBox web page showing how to wire
> > > up
> > > the
> > > | "SPOT" - "TUNE" switch. Maybe we can move that file to the
> > > main
> > > page
> > > | where the other documentation resides.
> > > |>
> > > |> Can't wait to get this sorted out and into my matching gray
> > > TenTec
> > > case!
> > > |
> > > | Roger that....I'm anxious to hear how it plays with the
> > > glowbug
> > > and
> > > | TT2 rigs.
> > > |>
> > > |> 72/73,
> > > |> Jerry
> > > |> N2ZW
> > > |
> > > | 72 and GL Jerry,
> > > |
> > > | Jim, K8IQY
> > > |
> > > |
> > > |
> > > |>
> > > |> --- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim
> > > Kortge
> > > wrote:
> > > |>>
> > > |>> On 11/2/2011 10:15 AM, WA0ITP wrote:
> > > |>>> GM Jerry,
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>> If the MB keyed the K2 properly, it's probably not a MB
> > > issue.
> > > It
> > > |>>> sounds as though your MB is seeing the full power supply
> > > voltage
> > > from
> > > |>>> your Glowbug and Tuna Tin 2, not the keying current. The
> > > IRF510
> > > is
> > > |>>> rated at 5.6A, 100V and abt a .5 ohm when turned on, and
> > > should
> > > handle
> > > |>>> both of them easily. Check to make sure the Glowbug and
> > > TT2
> > > keying
> > > |>>> jacks are wired correctly and not providing the full power
> > > supply
> > > |>>> voltage directly to the key jack. You can also put the
> > > positive lead
> > > |>>> of an ohmmeter on the keyed line going into the MB and
> > > make
> > > sure
> > > that
> > > |>>> line shows zero ohms when keyed, indicating that the 510
> > > is
> > > turning on
> > > |>>> properly.
> > > |>>>
> > > |
> > >
> > >
> > > >>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > |>>> I love this radio stuff !
> > > |>>> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> > > |>>> wa0itp@
> > > |>>> www.wa0itp.com
> > > |>>> www.4sqrp.com
> > > |>>> www.qrpspots.com
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>
> > > |>> Jerry,
> > > |>>
> > > |>> I think Terry hit the nail on the head. My review of the
> > > TT2
> > > |>> schematic shows the power to the rig being routed through
> > > the
> > > key, so
> > > |>> if you hook up that rig to the keying lead of the MagicBox,
> > > you
> > > will
> > > |>> be shorting out the power supply to the TT2. I can't find
> > > a
> > > schematic
> > > |>> for the Glowbug rig, but it may well be the same. The
> > > MagicBox
> > > keying
> > > |>> circuit is expecting to ground the keying lead from the
> > > transmitter;
> > > |>> it is not floating, so can't key a circuit that uses the
> > > key
> > > as a
> > > |>> switch in line with a power supply. That said, it will key
> > > any
> > > rig
> > > |>> where the keying needed requires the key line of the
> > > transmitter
> > > be
> > > |>> taken to ground. It should handle cathode keyed rigs up to
> > > the
> > > |>> voltage and current levels tolerated by the IRF510.
> > > |>>
> > > |>> 72,
> > > |>>
> > > |>> Jim, K8IQY
> > > |>>
> > > |>>
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > > |>>> From: "jerry_n2zw"
> > > |>>> To:<K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> > > |>>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 8:49 AM
> > > |>>> Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Keying issue
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>> | Hi all,
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | Love the kit. Built it, tested it along the way and all
> > > tests
> > > were
> > > |>>> good until I got to keying the transmitter into a dummy
> > > load
> > > at
> > > the
> > > |>>> very end.
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | My K2 keyed it fine. My TT2 and GlowBug are not
> > > (thought
> > > they
> > > both
> > > |>>> output fine into a dummy load directly).
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | Symptom is no output, getting good sidetone and the
> > > IRF510
> > > (Q17) is
> > > |>>> getting instantly HOT!
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | I have verified components a couple of times, looked at
> > > solder
> > > |>>> joints, etc. I checked all voltages that I could from the
> > > schematic
> > > |>>> (while not keying) and nothing seemed off.
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | My guess is that because the TT2 and Glowbug carry more
> > > voltage
> > > |>>> across their 'key inclusive' circuits (not isolated), I
> > > must
> > > have a
> > > |>>> short, bad ground or a regulator not working, but not sure
> > > how
> > > to
> > > |>>> debug.
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | Any help would be appreciated as I am looking to really
> > > use
> > > this
> > > |>>> with my TT's, Globugs, etc.
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | Thanks.
> > > |>>> | 73.
> > > |>>> | Jerry
> > > |>>> | N2ZW
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | ------------------------------------
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> | Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>> |
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>>
> > > |>>
> > > |>
> > > |>
> > > |>
> > > |
> > > |
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

| 65|64|2011-11-10 00:25:28|jerry_n2zw|MagicBox with Keyall Complete|

Thanks again Terry. Was thinking about the 'spot' backwards in that I was expecting to be able to match my sidetone to the receive. Got it. Back to 100 ohms for now and looking good.

The great news is that I got it all in the nice TenTec case tonight and tested it all out after doing so! I don't notice any issues, at least as of a few on air tests.

I took some detailed pics of the project and some to show the Keyall addition... some summary pics and also some fun macro stuff. Not sure how best to put them up to share... guess I just upload them to the pics folder?

The key thing about my build was the addition of the Keyall kit. Details as follows:

In my pics, you'll notice that the Keyall has to float free from the MagicBox to create the separation to block the voltage coming back to the box from rigs like the TT or Glowbug (old version glowbug with no t/r switch)... probably a terrible explanation technically. So, I used the empty corner space on the main board (excellent match in size) used small spacer to keep the Keyall board above the MagicBox board and wired the Keyall above and below the MagicBox board.

From the original J9 jack, I've run the pin and ground wires underneath and brought them to the Keyall input. Kept the soldering very flat on the topside of the board.

The Keyall output wires run above the board to the original J9 jack.

The J9 jack is now installed upside down and insulated from grounding with a small bit of shrink tube on the threads and a nylon washer outside. I needed the nut and washer as the jack would otherwise have no support when plugging in.

Power is run from the Keyall under the board and tied into the power switch so that it turns on and off with the MagicBox.

The net of the changes save me from putting the Keyall in a seperate enclsoure as well as needing another patch cable and power plug.

I'm excited !!! I'm feeling ready to continue chasing my TT WAS and start on my Glowbug WAS.

Now to finish labeling the MagicBox and then on to building a matching receiver or two...

BTW, how do I turn off all of this inline replying? It's driving me nuts to see the endless repeat of our threads.

Thank you again to everyone for helping out.

73 fer nw,
Jerry
N2ZW

| 66|64|2011-11-10 00:44:12|jerry_n2zw|Re: MagicBox with Keyall Complete|

Hey guys... added a photo album with the pics that I have so far. Let me know if this is the right way to put them out there.

73.
Jerry
N2ZW

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "jerry_n2zw" wrote:
>
> Thanks again Terry. Was thinking about the 'spot' backwards in that I was expecting to be able to match my sidetone to the receive. Got it. Back to 100 ohms for now and looking good.
>
> The great news is that I got it all in the nice TenTec case tonight and tested it all out after doing so! I don't notice any issues, at least as of a few on air tests.
>
> I took some detailed pics of the project and some to show the Keyall addition... some summary pics and also some fun macro stuff. Not sure how best to put them up to share... guess I just upload them to the pics folder?
>
> The key thing about my build was the addition of the Keyall kit. Details as follows:
>
> In my pics, you'll notice that the Keyall has to float free from the MagicBox to create the separation to block the voltage coming back to the box from rigs like the TT or Glowbug (old version glowbug with no t/r switch)... probably a terrible explanation technically. So, I used the empty corner space on the main board (excellent match in size) used small spacer to keep the Keyall board above the MagicBox board and wired the Keyall above and below the MagicBox board.
>
> From the original J9 jack, I've run the pin and ground wires underneath and brought them to the Keyall input. Kept the soldering very flat on the topside of the board.
>
> The Keyall output wires run above the board to the original J9 jack.
>
> The J9 jack is now installed upside down and insulated from grounding with a small bit of shrink tube on the threads and a nylon washer outside. I needed the nut and washer as the jack would otherwise have no support when plugging in.
>
> Power is run from the Keyall under the board and tied into the power switch so that it turns on and off with the MagicBox.
>
> The net of the changes save me from putting the Keyall in a seperate enclsoure as well as needing another patch cable and power plug.
>
> I'm excited !!! I'm feeling ready to continue chasing my TT WAS and start on my Glowbug WAS.
>
> Now to finish labeling the MagicBox and then on to building a matching receiver or two...
>
> BTW, how do I turn off all of this inline replying? It's driving me nuts to see the endless repeat of our threads.
>
> Thank you again to everyone for helping out.
>
> 73 fer nw,
> Jerry
> N2ZW
>

| 67|67|2011-11-16 07:47:52|bobby|mounting|

Can the Magic Box board be stacked on the SS 40 receiver board for mounting in the same enclosure?
Bobby

| 68|67|2011-11-16 09:32:50|Jim Kortge|Re: mounting|

On 11/16/2011 7:04 AM, bobby wrote:

> Can the Magic Box board be stacked on the SS 40 receiver board for mounting in the same enclosure?
> Bobby
>
>
>
>

Bobby,

I really don't know the answer to your question as I've never done
that. However, my gut feeling is that stacking the two boards isn't a
good idea as the MagicBox has a microprocessor running on its board
with the frequency being controlled by the internal RC network. In
that configuration, there may well be spurs or other hash being
generated that the SS-40 could hear. Putting them in separate boxes
minimizes interference from the MagicBox to the SS-40. That last
thing that you want is a nasty spur from the micro falling right on 7.040.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 69|69|2011-11-17 17:01:51|fred|Patch Cords|

I've been figuring the rf and audio patch cords necessary to interconnect the 3 units (M. Box, NS-40, & SS-40)together. It would seem to me that rg-174 would be suitable for patching purposes since the runs will be only about 1 foot long and not as bulky as, say, rg-58.
As for the audio cables I assume shielded with stereo plugs are used?
73, Fred
k6kub

| 70|69|2011-11-18 07:53:09|kd2akc|Re: Patch Cords|

Yeah for my "trio" I use 58 patch cables and stereo shielded audio cables. Ordered them all from Universal and it works great. I still need to adjust the "bleed through" resistor for the "spot function" though!

73,
Dave KD2AKC

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "fred" wrote:
>
> I've been figuring the rf and audio patch cords necessary to interconnect the 3 units (M. Box, NS-40, & SS-40)together. It would seem to me that rg-174 would be suitable for patching purposes since the runs will be only about 1 foot long and not as bulky as, say, rg-58.
> As for the audio cables I assume shielded with stereo plugs are used?
> 73, Fred
> k6kub
>

| 71|69|2011-11-18 15:24:08|Jim Kortge|Re: Patch Cords|

On 11/18/2011 7:53 AM, kd2akc wrote:

> Yeah for my "trio" I use 58 patch cables and stereo shielded audio cables.

Huh? 58 cables sounds like way too many to hook up the three pieces
of gear. What don't I understand?

Ordered them all from Universal and it works great.

I'll have to check out Universal. Are they on the web?

I still need to adjust the "bleed through" resistor for the "spot
function" though!

Make it about 100 Ohms and you will be close to optimum I believe.

>
> 73,
> Dave KD2AKC
>

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 72|69|2011-11-18 15:30:18|Lee Hiers|Re: Patch Cords|

On Fri, Nov 18, 2011 at 3:24 PM, Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com> wrote:

On 11/18/2011 7:53 AM, kd2akc wrote:
> Yeah for my "trio" I use 58 patch cables and stereo shielded audio cables.

Huh? 58 cables sounds like way too many to hook up the three pieces
of gear. What don't I understand?

Maybe he's using a bunch of different radios with the MB...or is using RG-58 cable! ;-)

73 de Lee
--
Lee Hiers, AA4GA
www.aa4ga.com

| 73|69|2011-11-18 15:36:39|Jim Kortge|Re: Patch Cords|

On 11/18/2011 3:29 PM, Lee Hiers wrote:

> On Fri, Nov 18, 2011 at 3:24 PM, Jim Kortge<jim.k8iqy@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> On 11/18/2011 7:53 AM, kd2akc wrote:
>>> Yeah for my "trio" I use 58 patch cables and stereo shielded audio
>> cables.
>>
>> Huh? 58 cables sounds like way too many to hook up the three pieces
>> of gear. What don't I understand?
>>
>
> Maybe he's using a bunch of different radios with the MB...or is using
> RG-58 cable! ;-)
>
> 73 de Lee
> --
> Lee Hiers, AA4GA
> www.aa4ga.com
>

Don't know Lee, but the "58" number sure go my attention! :-)

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 74|74|2011-11-21 17:10:53|fred|Rx led|

The front template shows an RX led so I installed one in the j7/dpdt loop. It lights up when the switch is in that position but it also lights up when I set the switch in the TX position. I know it does that because of the jumper on the switch. Do I have the rx led wired in correctly?
73, Fred
k6kub

| 75|74|2011-11-27 11:31:14|Jim Kortge|Re: Rx led|

On 11/21/2011 5:10 PM, fred wrote:

> The front template shows an RX led so I installed one in the j7/dpdt loop. It lights up when the switch is in that position but it also lights up when I set the switch in the TX position. I know it does that because of the jumper on the switch. Do I have the rx led wired in correctly?
> 73, Fred
> k6kub
>
>

Fred,

The Rx LED is something that Terry hosed up and I'm not sure how he
implemented it. Maybe he can jump in here and tell us all what he did.

Terry?

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 76|76|2011-11-28 12:13:44|Arthur|C19, C20, C21 caps|

Hi Gang, My kt is coming along great but, I do not have any green caps marked2A203K. Instead, I have 3 marked .022k 100 a. I assume hese are the 3 to be used but I just wanted to be sure. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks and 73 Art KJ4KBP

| 77|76|2011-11-28 14:16:16|Jim Kortge|Re: C19, C20, C21 caps|

On 11/28/2011 12:13 PM, Arthur wrote:

> Hi Gang, My kt is coming along great but, I do not have any green caps marked2A203K. Instead, I have 3 marked .022k 100 a. I assume hese are the 3 to be used but I just wanted to be sure.

Those are the ones to use Art.

Can anyone confirm this?

I can!! :-)

Thanks and 73 Art KJ4KBP

>
>

You are welcome. Build on.......

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 78|78|2011-12-01 15:16:14|Arthur|Transistors|

Leave it to me---I checked the parts wehn I got my kit but I didn't open the tinfoil package. Now that I am ready to install the transistors I found that there are 14 2N7000's and a IRF 510 but no others. Could I have some sent? Thanks, 73 Art KJ4KBP

| 79|79|2011-12-18 12:32:37|WA0ITP|LED and Spotting Switch wiring|

The bottom of photo page has sketches illustrating the wiring of the
spotting switch. And also the receive LED for builders that want to
include that. (fun to see the leds flcker while tramsmitting)
http://www.wa0itp.com/mbphotopage.html
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

| 80|79|2011-12-18 12:47:12|blackbelair|Re: LED and Spotting Switch wiring|

I was looking at the sketch and I see what appears to be "Du" in front of C14/R23. Does that Du mean something? Thanks again, Terry, for all your help

73, Fred

k6kub

From: WA0ITP
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 9:32 AM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] LED and Spotting Switch wiring

The bottom of photo page has sketches illustrating the wiring of the
spotting switch. And also the receive LED for builders that want to
include that. (fun to see the leds flcker while tramsmitting)
http://www.wa0itp.com/mbphotopage.html
----------------------------------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

| 81|79|2011-12-18 12:52:19|WA0ITP|Re: LED and Spotting Switch wiring|

Sri for my poor oenmanship. it should be P/U and just means pick up. Solder a wire between that junction and the gate of the 2N7000. That's what turns the led on when in the receive mode and off in the transmit mode.

Good luck and enjoy the MB.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----

From: blackbelair

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 11:47 AM

Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] LED and Spotting Switch wiring

I was looking at the sketch and I see what appears to be "Du" in front of C14/R23. Does that Du mean something? Thanks again, Terry, for all your help

73, Fred

k6kub

From: WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com>
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 9:32 AM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] LED and Spotting Switch wiring

The bottom of photo page has sketches illustrating the wiring of the
spotting switch. And also the receive LED for builders that want to
include that. (fun to see the leds flcker while tramsmitting)
http://www.wa0itp.com/mbphotopage.html
----------------------------------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

| 82|82|2012-02-26 17:11:50|WA0ITP|Binocular Core Winding Tutorial|

Jim has created a tutorial for winding the binoclular core of T1 in
the SAVXO. It also applies for the binocular cores in the SS-40 and
the Magic Box. However the number of windings for those 2 designs are
different than in the SAVXO. The tutorial is a valuable reference,
but dont use the same number of turns. Use the number specified in
your SS-40 or NS-40 manual.

It will answer your questions about winding binocular cores. It's
listed in the documentation section. http://www.wa0itp.com/savxo.html
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

| 83|83|2012-02-28 19:39:00|Jim Kortge|Re: [savxok8iqy] Re: VXO Build|

On 2/28/2012 6:41 PM, kd2akc wrote:

-snip-

I wish you could disable to sidetone on the magicbox though with a
jumper.

Why doesn't turning R32 fully CCW do the job? Seems like it would
reduce the sidetone to a value that you can't hear anymore. Am I
missing something?

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 84|84|2012-03-01 15:13:43|Jim Kortge|Re: [savxok8iqy] Re: SAVXO Kit Build Update|

On 3/1/2012 2:40 PM, Jerry AA6KI wrote:

> Hi Jim,

Hi Jerry,

>
> I'm probably missing something obvious, but what, pray tell, are UB1 and UB2?

You read my post and were paying attention! Thank you.....

UB1 and UB2 are "to-be-released" products coming from Four State QRP
when we get the time and resources to do them. UB1 is Utility Board
#1 PCB which has a myriad of circuits on it for doing project bread
boarding. It includes circuitry for a regulated power supply, two
switches, low harmonic output oscillator, ADE-1 mixer, a dual wide
band amplifier, crystal filter, band pass filter, low pass
filter/attenuator, and finally, a bread boarding area. UB2 is Utility
Board #2 which has on it a medium power amplifier, higher power
amplifier, low pass filter, and large bread boarding area. With the
pair of boards, one can build receivers, converters, transmitters, try
out ideas etc., etc. They are designed for experimenters who like to
play with circuits and ideas and do it on a PCB, rather than
Manhattan-style construction. The boards are all designed and ready to
go into production when time and resources permit us to do so. Any
feedback on the desirability of such boards might help push them along
in the timing. Our best effort at a marketing survey if you will! :-)

Thanks for any clarification.

You are welcome Jerry. Pass the word!

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 85|85|2012-04-24 15:03:44|garygpete|availbility|

Is there a time estimate as to when the kit will again be available?

I missed ordering before April and would like to place an order.

Gary WB6MAA

| 86|85|2012-04-29 08:39:18|Guy|Re: availbility|

I would also be interested!
AI1G

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "garygpete" wrote:
>
> Is there a time estimate as to when the kit will again be available?
>
> I missed ordering before April and would like to place an order.
>
> Gary WB6MAA
>

| 87|87|2012-04-29 12:34:36|Larry Clement W2LAC|Magic Box|

You can add me to that list also.

| 88|88|2012-05-01 11:10:42|KDØRII|Me too!|

I didn't know there was a list, but if there is put me on it!
Phoenix, KDØRII

| 89|88|2012-05-02 09:47:56|grahamg3zod|Re: Me too!|

According to the web page http://www.wa0itp.com/qrpom.html the magic box is available and can be ordered now.

73 de Graham G3ZOD FISTS #8385
http://fists.co.uk

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, KDØRII wrote:
> I didn't know there was a list, but if there is put me on it!
> Phoenix, KDØRII

| 90|88|2012-05-02 09:54:29|grahamg3zod|Re: Me too!|

I meant http://www.wa0itp.com/mbmagicbox.html of course.

73 de Graham G3ZOD FISTS #8385
http://fists.co.uk

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "grahamg3zod" wrote:
> According to the web page http://www.wa0itp.com/qrpom.html
> the magic box is available and can
> be ordered now.

| 91|88|2012-05-02 13:29:17|Jim Kortge|Re: Me too!|

On 5/2/2012 9:47 AM, grahamg3zod wrote:

>
>
> According to the web page http://www.wa0itp.com/qrpom.html the magic
> box is available and can be ordered now.
>
> 73 de Graham G3ZOD FISTS #8385
> http://fists.co.uk

Actually, the MagicBox is not available. You were looking at the
wrong URL. Here is the correct one:
<http://www.wa0itp.com/mbmagicbox.html>

72,

Jim, K8IQY
MagicBox Designer

| 92|88|2012-05-02 13:48:16|grahamg3zod|Re: Me too!|

"Actually" this page quite clearly says it is available:

http://www.wa0itp.com/4sqrpkitindex.html

K8IQY Magic Box TR Switching System

The Magic Box is a solid state, all electronic, transmit/receive switching system that allows a separate receiver and transmitter to transceive with full (or semi) QSK. Easy to build and features plug and play connections. An Atmel Microcontroller handles the timing for 5 functions- xmttr keying, xmittr antenna switch, rcvr antenna switch, rcvr audio switch, and side tone oscillator. It features awsome isolation between your transmitter and receiver. (Available now)"

73 de Graham G3ZOD FISTS #8385
http://fists.co.uk

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> Actually, the MagicBox is not available. You were looking at the
> wrong URL. Here is the correct one:
>
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
> MagicBox Designer
>

| 93|88|2012-05-02 14:04:16|Jim Kortge|Re: Me too!|

On 5/2/2012 1:48 PM, grahamg3zod wrote:

>
>
> "Actually" this page quite clearly says it is available:
>
> http://www.wa0itp.com/4sqrpkitindex.html

Obviously, that page isn't correct. When you click on the link that
takes one to the MagicBox page, all of the ordering info is gone until
more kits are available. Sorry for the bad link; I've cc Terry so he
can fix that.

We will try to do better next time.

Jim, K8IQY

>
> K8IQY Magic Box TR Switching System
> <http://www.wa0itp.com/mbmagicbox.html>
>
> The Magic Box is a solid state, all electronic, transmit/receive
> switching system that allows a separate receiver and transmitter to
> transceive with full (or semi) QSK. Easy to build and features plug
> and play connections. An Atmel Microcontroller handles the timing for
> 5 functions- xmttr keying, xmittr antenna switch, rcvr antenna switch,
> rcvr audio switch, and side tone oscillator. It features awsome
> isolation between your transmitter and receiver.(Available now)"
>
> 73 de Graham G3ZOD FISTS #8385
> http://fists.co.uk <http://fists.co.uk/>
>
>
> --- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> > Actually, the MagicBox is not available. You were looking at the
> > wrong URL. Here is the correct one:
> > <http://www.wa0itp.com/mbmagicbox.html>
> >
> > 72,
> >
> > Jim, K8IQY
> > MagicBox Designer
> >
>
>
>
>

| 94|88|2012-05-02 14:10:52|Larry Clement W2LAC|Re: Me too!|

When I go to that link it says that the sale is suspended until after Ozark.

W2LAC

-----Original Message-----
From: grahamg3zod
To: K8IQY-MagicBox
Sent: Wed, May 2, 2012 1:56 pm
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Me too!

"Actually" this page quite clearly says it is available:

http://www.wa0itp.com/4sqrpkitindex.html

K8IQY Magic Box TR Switching System

73 de Graham G3ZOD FISTS #8385
http://fists.co.uk

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> Actually, the MagicBox is not available. You were looking at the
> wrong URL. Here is the correct one:
> <http://www.wa0itp.com/mbmagicbox.html>;
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
> MagicBox Designer
>

| 95|95|2012-06-12 14:10:46|dagburnitt|What can we see coming?|

It's always best to hear it from the horse's mouth,And when he talks to you...you believe. (coming from Mr. Ed). I believe ya. No rush. Great job on all gifts you give! (coming from a fan of your kits). I am looking, hopefully, towards there being another release of K8IQY-MagicBox. It is all working towards my understanding, and I'm sure others also.

| 96|95|2012-06-12 22:07:45|Jim Kortge|Re: What can we see coming?|

On 6/12/2012 2:10 PM, dagburnitt wrote:

> It's always best to hear it from the horse's mouth,And when he talks to you...you believe. (coming from Mr. Ed). I believe ya. No rush. Great job on all gifts you give! (coming from a fan of your kits). I am looking, hopefully, towards there being another release of K8IQY-MagicBox. It is all working towards my understanding, and I'm sure others also.
>

All,

Another run of 100 MagicBox kits is in the works. Exactly when they
will again be available isn't up to me, but Terry and the kitting
crew. I burned the code into another 100 ATtiny2313 chips about a
week ago and shipped them out, so I'm guessing maybe in another week
or two they will open up the ordering for this kit again.

Thanks for all of the interest. I hope this design never dies. It is
a real keeper!

72,

Jim, K8IQY
Designer of the MagicBox and other fun Ham Radio goodies

| 97|97|2012-06-12 22:24:33|WA0ITP|Magic Box Availability|

Sri that we haven't been able to ship the Magic Box yet. All of the
parts have been ordered and received, and the kitting process has
begun. Dayton and family activities slowed the effort a bit and it
will be a couple weeks before shipping commences again.

Thank you for your patience and for supporting the Four State QRP
Group.
----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge" <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: "dagburnitt" <neivahul@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2012 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] What can we see coming?

| On 6/12/2012 2:10 PM, dagburnitt wrote:
| > It's always best to hear it from the horse's mouth,And when he
talks to you...you believe. (coming from Mr. Ed). I believe ya. No
rush. Great job on all gifts you give! (coming from a fan of your
kits). I am looking, hopefully, towards there being another release of
K8IQY-MagicBox. It is all working towards my understanding, and I'm
sure others also.
| >
|
| All,
|
| Another run of 100 MagicBox kits is in the works. Exactly when they
| will again be available isn't up to me, but Terry and the kitting
| crew. I burned the code into another 100 ATtiny2313 chips about a
| week ago and shipped them out, so I'm guessing maybe in another week
| or two they will open up the ordering for this kit again.
|
| Thanks for all of the interest. I hope this design never dies. It
is
| a real keeper!
|
| 72,
|
| Jim, K8IQY
| Designer of the MagicBox and other fun Ham Radio goodies
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 98|97|2012-06-12 23:24:10|Les Garwood|Re: Magic Box Availability|

Hi,

So how does one get on the list or whatever for one of these puppies?

73,

Les

KE7SLX

On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 7:24 PM, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

Sri that we haven't been able to ship the Magic Box yet. All of the
parts have been ordered and received, and the kitting process has
begun. Dayton and family activities slowed the effort a bit and it
will be a couple weeks before shipping commences again.

Thank you for your patience and for supporting the Four State QRP
Group.
----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge" <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: "dagburnitt" <neivahul@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2012 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] What can we see coming?

| On 6/12/2012 2:10 PM, dagburnitt wrote:
| > It's always best to hear it from the horse's mouth,And when he
talks to you...you believe. (coming from Mr. Ed). I believe ya. No
rush. Great job on all gifts you give! (coming from a fan of your
kits). I am looking, hopefully, towards there being another release of
K8IQY-MagicBox. It is all working towards my understanding, and I'm
sure others also.
| >
|
| All,
|
| Another run of 100 MagicBox kits is in the works. Exactly when they
| will again be available isn't up to me, but Terry and the kitting
| crew. I burned the code into another 100 ATtiny2313 chips about a
| week ago and shipped them out, so I'm guessing maybe in another week
| or two they will open up the ordering for this kit again.
|
| Thanks for all of the interest. I hope this design never dies. It
is
| a real keeper!
|
| 72,
|
| Jim, K8IQY
| Designer of the MagicBox and other fun Ham Radio goodies
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

--
When you think of the long and gloomy history of man, you will find more hideous crimes have been committed in the name of obedience than have ever been committed in the name of rebellion.
- CP Snow

| 99|97|2012-06-13 09:37:39|Jim Kortge|Re: Magic Box Availability|

On 6/12/2012 11:24 PM, Les Garwood wrote:

>
>
> Hi,
>
> So how does one get on the list or whatever for one of these puppies?
>
> 73,
>
> Les
> KE7SLX
>

No list or anything like that for this product Les. When the ordering
window opens again, I'm sure Terry will post that info and you can
order one. If we run out again, we'll order parts and do another run,
even if I have to do the ordering, kitting and shipping. :-)

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 100|97|2012-06-13 10:26:32|WA0ITP|Re: Magic Box Availability|

GM Les,

Yes that is the plan, an announcement will be made. Look for it in
about 2 weeks. Additional runs are in the plans also.
Thanx Jim
----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge" <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: "Les Garwood" <Les.Garwood@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Magic Box Availability

| On 6/12/2012 11:24 PM, Les Garwood wrote:
| >
| >
| > Hi,
| >
| > So how does one get on the list or whatever for one of these
puppies?
| >
| > 73,
| >
| > Les
| > KE7SLX
| >
|
| No list or anything like that for this product Les. When the
ordering
| window opens again, I'm sure Terry will post that info and you can
| order one. If we run out again, we'll order parts and do another
run,
| even if I have to do the ordering, kitting and shipping. :-)
|
| 72,
|
| Jim, K8IQY
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 101|97|2012-06-13 14:35:59|dagburnitt|Re: Magic Box Availability|

That is good news to hear---that family comes first! (And that the MagicBox is being prepared). Your kits are deserving of all the support they get. It's hard to keep a hungry beast tame, but your kits help/--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "WA0ITP" wrote:

>
> Sri that we haven't been able to ship the Magic Box yet. All of the
> parts have been ordered and received, and the kitting process has
> begun. Dayton and family activities slowed the effort a bit and it
> will be a couple weeks before shipping commences again.
>
> Thank you for your patience and for supporting the Four State QRP
> Group.
> ----------------------------------
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
> wa0itp@...
> www.wa0itp.com
> www.4sqrp.com
> www.qrpspots.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Kortge"
> To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
> Cc: "dagburnitt"
> Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2012 9:07 PM
> Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] What can we see coming?
>
>
> | On 6/12/2012 2:10 PM, dagburnitt wrote:
> | > It's always best to hear it from the horse's mouth,And when he
> talks to you...you believe. (coming from Mr. Ed). I believe ya. No
> rush. Great job on all gifts you give! (coming from a fan of your
> kits). I am looking, hopefully, towards there being another release of
> K8IQY-MagicBox. It is all working towards my understanding, and I'm
> sure others also.
> | >
> |
> | All,
> |
> | Another run of 100 MagicBox kits is in the works. Exactly when they
> | will again be available isn't up to me, but Terry and the kitting
> | crew. I burned the code into another 100 ATtiny2313 chips about a
> | week ago and shipped them out, so I'm guessing maybe in another week
> | or two they will open up the ordering for this kit again.
> |
> | Thanks for all of the interest. I hope this design never dies. It
> is
> | a real keeper!
> |
> | 72,
> |
> | Jim, K8IQY
> | Designer of the MagicBox and other fun Ham Radio goodies
> |
> |
> |
> | ------------------------------------
> |
> | Yahoo! Groups Links
> |
> |
> |
>

| 102|102|2012-07-06 07:34:41|PETER|Magic Box ordering|

There doesn't seem to be an order button for this.

| 103|102|2012-07-06 09:01:05|Jim Kortge|Re: Magic Box ordering|

On 07/06/2012 07:34 AM, PETER wrote:

> There doesn't seem to be an order button for this.

Peter,

I just checked and it seems to be working now!

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 104|102|2012-07-06 09:16:28|WA0ITP|Re: Magic Box ordering|

GM Peter

I think your browser is using a page in it's cache, try reloading the
page. The button is near th bottom of the page.
http://www.wa0itp.com/mbmagicbox.html
----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72, 73 Terry, WAØITP
wa0itp@wa0itp.com
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "PETER" <petertheannex@btinternet.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2012 6:34 AM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Magic Box ordering

| There doesn't seem to be an order button for this.
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 105|105|2012-07-06 17:00:40|iamsreed|excellent work|

Magic box on order and I couldn't be happier. Thanks for your endeavors and designs.

| 106|106|2012-07-09 17:20:17|iamsreed|Magic Box arrives|

I just received my kit and will lay out to inventory. I learn as I go. Some days I go slow. Other times I wake in the morning saying, "I got the answer!" I started a photo file and will fill it in more as I put things together. I'm having fun.

| 107|107|2012-07-11 21:15:18|iamsreed|Three Amigo caps|

Hello-feel like the lone ranger out here. I was wondering if I might learn a little something about the change in type of capacitor for 19,20,21. I've collected some of these yellow replacements from old stereos. But the green ones were such a nice deep color. That is all I know abouty them.what are some of the charactistical differences between the two, concerning the Magic Box?

| 108|78|2012-07-11 21:26:53|PaulS|Re: Transistors|

Art, the 3904 and 3906 transistors are usually swimming around in the Baggie. Let me know , send your added and I will get some coming to you

De Paul N0NBD

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "Arthur" wrote:
>
> Leave it to me---I checked the parts wehn I got my kit but I didn't open the tinfoil package. Now that I am ready to install the transistors I found that there are 14 2N7000's and a IRF 510 but no others. Could I have some sent? Thanks, 73 Art KJ4KBP
>

| 109|109|2012-07-13 23:39:29|iamsreed|serious inquiry|

While I am waiting for transformer cores- so that I can build and test in sequence-I thought I might have time to look into capacitors' 19, 20,and 21. I was intrested in learning of their attributes to the system design. I would dig up a data sheet but haven't nailed down the type in paticular that they are.

| 110|109|2012-07-13 23:55:13|Shawn Reed|Re: serious inquiry|

I answered part of my question looking up the previous capacitor at mousers. It ls listed obsolete. Too bad I say, only because these "good items" don't seem to carry a market so well to supply. I do have salvage tho and always try to find a reason to fit a nice green capacitor, or whatever, into the picture. thanks.

| 111|109|2012-07-14 15:25:49|Bill L|Re: serious inquiry|

Shawn google na5n guide to capacitors and you will have a wealth of information.

Bill w7wel

Shawn Reed <neivahul@yahoo.com> wrote:

| 112|109|2012-07-14 17:16:51|iamsreed|Re: serious inquiry|

Just finished reading na5n Guide to Capacitors. It did have quite a few answers for me. Thanks much for taking time out this way.

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Bill L wrote:
>
> Shawn google na5n guide to capacitors and you will have a wealth of information.
>
> Bill w7wel
>
> Shawn Reed wrote:
>
> >I answered part of my question looking up the previous capacitor at mousers. It ls listed obsolete. Too bad I say, only because these "good items" don't seem to carry a market so well to supply. I do have salvage tho and always try to find a reason to fit a nice green capacitor, or whatever, into the picture. thanks.
>

| 113|113|2012-07-18 16:39:08|curtstamp|Question re: Solder Flux|

Some of the kit instructions mention using liquid solder flux. What is the better kind to use? The liquid in the bottle or folder flux pen?
Thanks for the response

| 114|113|2012-07-18 17:41:16|Jim Kortge|Re: Question re: Solder Flux|

On 7/18/2012 4:39 PM, curtstamp wrote:

> Some of the kit instructions mention using liquid solder flux. What is the better kind to use? The liquid in the bottle or folder flux pen?
> Thanks for the response

The kind that I use is in a bottle and is common rosin dissolved in
alcohol. I don't know the type of alcohol used; the liquid flux was
bought many years ago from Mouser or Radio Shack.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 115|115|2012-07-22 00:31:07|iamsreed|headers up.|

double wondering- J12-with the 470 ohm resistor- is R47 for the LED? I like the board lay-out. Usually, space is at a premium. I found an oversized case, (in length) for possible future needs. I'm having great fun, as the pieces keep falling into place. Thanks.

| 116|115|2012-07-22 08:52:01|Jim Kortge|Re: headers up.|

On 7/22/2012 12:31 AM, iamsreed wrote:

> double wondering- J12-with the 470 ohm resistor- is R47 for the LED?

Yes it is!

I like the board lay-out.

Thank you....that was the first PCB that I had ever done by myself.
It came out well I think.

Usually, space is at a premium. I found an oversized case, (in
length) for possible future needs.

Very good.

I'm having great fun, as the pieces keep falling into place.

Nice to hear.....

Thanks.

You are welcome.

72 and keep having fun,

Jim, K8IQY

| 117|117|2012-07-30 21:44:43|iamsreed|switch one|

I feel like I got the magic box to a point near completion. I haven't yet figured the switch for spot-tune. I put in a three legged LED I think will work into the action also. I have no rx,tx, yet. I started my learning of amature radio last dec..My next focus will be on learning code.(I've practiced 1,2,3 from the EZ Keyer). I will build a key for practice and a receiver -Most likely yours! (Save me one, please).I built some antenna equip. , along with my own assembly for a di-pole center connector.Both yours and Milestone tech. watt meter. KD1JV's delux tenna dipper, the zm-2 atu,a couple freq. counters, (still working on getting Diz's to work). Looked into Softrock SDR_Tony Parks ensembles- after obtaining & building an earlier, thru-hole 40M model. I am now working on his complete line of radios. My main goal though is to be self-reliant and be tooling around in the outskirts of civilization with a couple batteries in my pack. I came across N5ESE's RF Probe earlier on-Had to look up what a 1n34a diode was! I finally found one in an old multimeter I justified parting out. His response my way was uplifting. In the meantime, I salvaged several computers, old monitors, and a printer, researching components. Then, this last week I finally got some feedline and connectors from the Wireman, so I was able to hoist up my first antenna. It was just recently, a friend gave me an old 50 watt Halicrafter, model s-53a,(1952) with all the tubes working, and I was able to hear morse code transmissions on 40 meters. No partners in on this with me so it is difficult at times understanding some things. However, the kits from 4SQRP Group have filled in a lot of holes in my doings. A grateful thanks for your hospitality. I am glad I found you guys! (I tried to keep it short).

| 118|117|2012-07-30 22:13:48|wa0itp@mchsi.com|Re: switch one|

Glad you found us also, welcome aboard. What is your call sign?

The spotting switch wiring is shown near the bottom of on the kit's photopage. http://www.wa0itp.com/mbphotopage.html

Enjoy the Magic Box

72 Terry WAØITP

----- Original Message -----
From: iamsreed <neivahul@yahoo.com>
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 20:44:39 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] switch one

I feel like I got the magic box to a point near completion. I haven't yet figured the switch for spot-tune. I put in a three legged LED I think will work into the action also. I have no rx,tx, yet. I started my learning of amature radio last dec..My next focus will be on learning code.(I've practiced 1,2,3 from the EZ Keyer). I will build a key for practice and a receiver -Most likely yours! (Save me one, please).I built some antenna equip. , along with my own assembly for a di-pole center connector.Both yours and Milestone tech. watt meter. KD1JV's delux tenna dipper, the zm-2 atu,a couple freq. counters, (still working on getting Diz's to work). Looked into Softrock SDR_Tony Parks ensembles- after obtaining & building an earlier, thru-hole 40M model. I am now working on his complete line of radios. My main goal though is to be self-reliant and be tooling around in the outskirts of civilization with a couple batteries in my pack. I came across N5ESE's RF Probe earlier on-Had to look up what a 1n34a diode was! I finally found one in an old multimeter I justified parting out. His response my way was uplifting. In the meantime, I salvaged several computers, old monitors, and a printer, researching components. Then, this last week I finally got some feedline and connectors from the Wireman, so I was able to hoist up my first antenna. It was just recently, a friend gave me an old 50 watt Halicrafter, model s-53a,(1952) with all the tubes working, and I was able to hear morse code transmissions on 40 meters. No partners in on this with me so it is difficult at times understanding some things. However, the kits from 4SQRP Group have filled in a lot of holes in my doings. A grateful thanks for your hospitality. I am glad I found you guys! (I tried to keep it short).

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

| 119|119|2012-07-30 23:44:56|Barney|Welcome|

Hi James (I think);

Welcome to the 4SQRP group. If you need any advice, just ask.
We'll give you an answer of some kind if we think we know......Good luck
on your projects.

There are some very knowledgeable people here and also helpful.....

72/73

Barney/NO0N

| 120|120|2012-08-08 16:14:47|dnorbury|Max transmit power?|

Hi all. New member here. I'm most of the way through assembling the MagicBox. I haven't seen any mention of the max transmit power it can handle. I hope I haven't missed the spec somewhere.

I just hate "smoke tests" that actually emit smoke!!!

Thanks, 73,

Dave
KD6A

| 121|120|2012-08-08 16:53:06|Jim Kortge|Re: Max transmit power?|

On 8/8/2012 4:14 PM, dnorbury wrote:

> Hi all. New member here. I'm most of the way through assembling the MagicBox. I haven't seen any mention of the max transmit power it can handle. I hope I haven't missed the spec somewhere.
>
> I just hate "smoke tests" that actually emit smoke!!!
>
> Thanks, 73,
>
> Dave
> KD6A
>

Dave,

The MagicBox can safely handle 10 watts of transmit RF power. More
might smoke it! I can't believe after several revisions of the
Assembly Manual that specification got left out. Amazing.....the
manual writer ought to be fired. Oh wait, that would be me..... :-)
I'm going to put out a revision ASAP that includes the 10 watt
specification.

72/73,

Jim, K8IQY
"The MagicBox Designer"

| 122|122|2012-09-10 14:27:05|sm6fpg|Finish my MagicBox|

I got the material (the 10m Ohm resistor R46 was lacking)last week and to day I finish the kit. Nice kit! Everything work fine!

The goal are to use the box between my Elecraft K2 and a second receiver for split receiving. During the test it's work as exspected!

To day the second receiver is an Kenwood R5000 but later on my plan is to use an SDR-receiver.

Next kit to build will be PK-4 kit keyer!

Thanks!

| 123|123|2012-09-12 22:08:38|skeller1953|operational check problem|

To the Group,

I am a new member and come hat in hand with a question.

Finished the build and all the measurements were within the suggested ranges. I even mounted it (prematurely, it seems) in the Ten-Tec box with power switch and LED that lights when the power is on. Only then did I start the Operational Checks. No joy in Mudville!

Pressing the key does not attenuate the receiver signal.

I have checked the positioning of all the transistors and assured they are in the correct locations. I have tried two different receivers.

Suggestions will be appreciated.

Steve
K2DKT

| 124|123|2012-09-19 22:21:27|Jim Kortge|Re: operational check problem|

On 9/12/2012 10:08 PM, skeller1953 wrote:

> To the Group,
>
> I am a new member and come hat in hand with a question.

Hello Steve and sorry for the long delay in responding. I've been on
a cruise with XYL with essentially no internet nor computer with me.

>
> Finished the build and all the measurements were within the suggested ranges. I even mounted it (prematurely, it seems) in the Ten-Tec box with power switch and LED that lights when the power is on. Only then did I start the Operational Checks. No joy in Mudville!
>
> Pressing the key does not attenuate the receiver signal.

Are you absolutely sure that you have the receiver and antenna
connected to the correct BNC connectors?

>
> I have checked the positioning of all the transistors and assured they are in the correct locations. I have tried two different receivers.
>
> Suggestions will be appreciated.

Make sure that the power supply you are using is running at or near 12
volts or more. Are you transmitting into the unit? Does that part
work? Are you using the receiver audio muting? Does that work?

Sure wish we had the data from the stage builds to figure out what
might not be right.

If you can't get it working, send it to me at my call book address
along with $10 for return shipping and I will take a look at it for
you. That's the best I can do....

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 125|87|2012-09-20 09:10:49|skeller1953|Magic Box|

Jim,

Thanks for the reply.

I think I may have identified the problem. A brief explanation: The build went without incident and all the measurements were within spec until I reached for the ATTINY microprocessor. It was not to found. As I did not inventory the parts, I do not know if the ATTINY was not sent or I misplaced (lost) it. I ordered one from Mauser, but no success. Then, while perusing the data sheet it dawned on me that perhaps the programmable microprocessor needs to be programmed! I contacted Paul N0NBD and he graciously agreed to put one in the mail. It should arrive by the weekend.

As I explained to Paul, I returned to amateur radio about three years ago after a four decade hiatus (nee, WB2DKT). I had to retake all the exams, as I had let my advanced class license lapse. I have been trying to catch up with all the "new" technology, but still have a day job and family!

I will keep you informed.

Steve
K2DKT

| 126|87|2012-09-20 09:19:42|WA0ITP|Re: Magic Box|

Good Morning Steve,

Welcome back to the best of all possible hobbies.

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "skeller1953" <skeller53@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2012 8:10 AM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Magic Box

| Jim,
|
| Thanks for the reply.
|
| I think I may have identified the problem. A brief explanation: The
build went without incident and all the measurements were within spec
until I reached for the ATTINY microprocessor. It was not to found. As
I did not inventory the parts, I do not know if the ATTINY was not
sent or I misplaced (lost) it. I ordered one from Mauser, but no
success. Then, while perusing the data sheet it dawned on me that
perhaps the programmable microprocessor needs to be programmed! I
contacted Paul N0NBD and he graciously agreed to put one in the mail.
It should arrive by the weekend.
|
| As I explained to Paul, I returned to amateur radio about three
years ago after a four decade hiatus (nee, WB2DKT). I had to retake
all the exams, as I had let my advanced class license lapse. I have
been trying to catch up with all the "new" technology, but still have
a day job and family!
|
| I will keep you informed.
|
| Steve
| K2DKT
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 127|87|2012-09-21 09:19:23|Jim Kortge|Re: Magic Box|

On 9/20/2012 9:10 AM, skeller1953 wrote:

> Jim,
>
> Thanks for the reply.
>
> I think I may have identified the problem. A brief explanation: The build went without incident and all the measurements were within spec until I reached for the ATTINY microprocessor. It was not to found. As I did not inventory the parts, I do not know if the ATTINY was not sent or I misplaced (lost) it. I ordered one from Mauser, but no success. Then, while perusing the data sheet it dawned on me that perhaps the programmable microprocessor needs to be programmed! I contacted Paul N0NBD and he graciously agreed to put one in the mail. It should arrive by the weekend.

Steve.....I think you have found the problem. The ATTiny
microprocessor is the "heart" of the system by providing signals and
timing to the various circuits to make the MagicBox work. Without the
microprocessor being there, nothing in the box works. And yes, there
is a fair amount of code programmed into the microprocessor; I program
each and every one of them and verify that the correct code is in the
chip that is supplied.

>
> As I explained to Paul, I returned to amateur radio about three years ago after a four decade hiatus (nee, WB2DKT). I had to retake all the exams, as I had let my advanced class license lapse. I have been trying to catch up with all the "new" technology, but still have a day job and family!

Welcome back and have lots of fun!

>
> I will keep you informed.

Very good......

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 128|128|2012-10-26 10:07:05|llewellyn2247|Header Selection|

I have a very basic question. On p.5 of the assembly manual there is a reference to a 20 pin breakaway 20 pin header for J7, J11, J13 and J14. My question is there are two pieces. One has very long pins and the other has shorter pins and has sockets. If it is the one without the sockets, how is it placed? Tall pins up and the shorter pins soldered on PCB? Which do I use for the aforementioned locations? I just want to use the right one. I am not a gifted kit builder! Any help would be appreciated. =Bill= KC2YQY

| 129|128|2012-10-26 10:16:56|WA0ITP|Re: Header Selection|

GM Bill,

Yes, it is the one without the sockets. The male pins solder into the
board with the short ends in the holes. The sockets fit over the long
pins when in use.

Hope this helps.

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "llewellyn2247" <llewellyn2247@yahoo.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2012 9:07 AM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Header Selection

|I have a very basic question. On p.5 of the assembly manual there is
a reference to a 20 pin breakaway 20 pin header for J7, J11, J13 and
J14. My question is there are two pieces. One has very long pins and
the other has shorter pins and has sockets. If it is the one without
the sockets, how is it placed? Tall pins up and the shorter pins
soldered on PCB? Which do I use for the aforementioned locations? I
just want to use the right one. I am not a gifted kit builder! Any
help would be appreciated. =Bill= KC2YQY
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 130|130|2012-10-31 22:00:53|AlfredR|Want to Buy K8IQY Magic Box|

Would anyone have a Magic Box for sale? I am an OT and unable to build any longer. Want to match my Palstar R30CC to a QRP TX. Tnx 73 Al W6JHO

| 131|130|2012-11-01 22:53:44|shawn_kf7yff|Re: Want to Buy K8IQY Magic Box|

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "AlfredR" wrote:

>
> Would anyone have a Magic Box for sale? I am an OT and unable to build any longer. Want to match my Palstar R30CC to a QRP TX. Tnx 73 Al W6JHO
>

If no one has offered, I'd be glad to build one for you -in service, more than happy to do so.73 Shawn R. kf7yff.

| 132|132|2012-12-03 15:18:08|WA0ITP|BNC Terminations|

I ran across a half dozen 50 ohm bnc terminations in the storage unit
stuff. Need any?

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

| 133|132|2012-12-03 15:19:24|WA0ITP|Re: BNC Terminations|

This was meant to go directly to Jim, sri

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "WA0ITP" <wa0itp@mchsi.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2012 2:18 PM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] BNC Terminations

|I ran across a half dozen 50 ohm bnc terminations in the storage unit
| stuff. Need any?
|
| ----------------------------------
| I love this radio stuff !
| 72 WAØITP
| www.wa0itp.com
| www.4sqrp.com
| www.qrpspots.com
|
|
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 134|132|2012-12-03 17:12:34|Jim Kortge|Re: BNC Terminations|

On 12/3/2012 3:18 PM, WA0ITP wrote:

> I ran across a half dozen 50 ohm bnc terminations in the storage unit
> stuff. Need any?

Yes, I would take one or two. I'm always looking for good
terminations when doing measurements. The one BNC that I have is
intermittent, so never use is anymore!

Do you want me to send you some money?

72 and thanks,

Jim, K8IQY

| 135|135|2012-12-08 14:54:27|llewellyn2247|MB Enclosure Punching|

Hello to all
Would anyone out there help me out with regard to punching out the MB enclosure holes? I, like most, do not have a punch set so I was wondering if someone with one would be willing to give me a hand. I would cover all shipping costs in returning the box back from you and make it worth your while to boot. I have the correct Ten-Tec enclosure. If anyone is interested, please let me know. Thank you very much. Hope to hear from a kind soul! =Bill= KC2YQY

| 136|135|2012-12-08 20:45:11|blackbelair|Re: MB Enclosure Punching|

Those punch sets, such as Greenlee, are expensive. I think most of us out here probably use a step drill or a circle template. If I use a template to drill a large size hole I'll drill many smaller diameter holes until I can get a half-round file to finish it.
Fred
k6kub

From: llewellyn2247
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 8, 2012 11:54 AM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] MB Enclosure Punching

| 137|135|2012-12-08 20:51:40|Barney|Re: MB Enclosure Punching|

Hi;

If you couldget a step drill, I call it, it would be pretty easy to make
the holes the right size. Something that resembles this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=step+drill

Or this, but more expensive. They have come up in price!

http://www.lowes.com/Search=step+drill?storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=step+drill

or a set of drill bits would do the job.

73

Barney

On 12/8/2012 1:54 PM, llewellyn2247 wrote:
>
> Hello to all
> Would anyone out there help me out with regard to punching out the MB
> enclosure holes? I, like most, do not have a punch set so I was
> wondering if someone with one would be willing to give me a hand. I
> would cover all shipping costs in returning the box back from you and
> make it worth your while to boot. I have the correct Ten-Tec
> enclosure. If anyone is interested, please let me know. Thank you very
> much. Hope to hear from a kind soul! =Bill= KC2YQY
>
>

| 138|138|2012-12-11 21:25:55|blackbelair|(no subject)|

http://2startabusiness.com/wp-content/plugins/akismet/google.html

| 139|139|2012-12-12 09:33:11|bill_kc2yqy|Transformers in the MB|

Hello to all.

I have a question concerning the two transformers and their correct placement on the main board. Looking from the rear of board, we see T1 on the left and T2 on the right. Looking at T1, the top of the square says 4T. On the left hand side of the square it's 2TP-4TS. How should I install the transformer? Looking at T2, the top of the square again says 4T. On the left side of the square it now says 4TP-2TS. Kind of the same deal. Can anyone tell me how to install T1 and T2 given these observations? Thanks in advance. -Bill-

| 140|139|2012-12-12 09:56:54|Jim Kortge|Re: Transformers in the MB|

On 12/12/2012 9:33 AM, bill_kc2yqy wrote:

> Hello to all.

Good morning Bill,

>
> I have a question concerning the two transformers and their correct placement on the main board. Looking from the rear of board, we see T1 on the left and T2 on the right. Looking at T1, the top of the square says 4T.

That's where the 4-turn winding of T1 is soldered.

On the left hand side of the square it's 2TP-4TS.

For T1, it reads "4TP-2TS", which means 4-turn primary winding and
2-turn secondary winding. So the 4-turn primary winding is soldered
to the pair of pads that say "4T"

How should I install the transformer?

See above.

Looking at T2, the top of the square again says 4T.

That's where the 4-turn secondary winding of T2 is soldered.

On the left side of the square it now says 4TP-2TS.

Actually, it is 2TP-4TS or a transformer with a 2-turn primary and a
4-turn secondary.

Kind of the same deal.

Yes, and in each case, the 4-turn winding of the transformer goes to
the "4T" designation pads on the PCB.

Can anyone tell me how to install T1 and T2 given these observations?

See above......

Thanks in advance. -Bill-

You are welcome Bill.

72 and GL,

Jim, K8IQY

| 141|139|2012-12-12 10:02:57|WA0ITP|Re: Transformers in the MB|

GM Bill,

Thank you for purchasing the MagicBox. It is an amazing piece of gear,
and I;m sure it will perform well for you.

The screen print describes the difference in the transformers. They
are identical, except that T1 is connected as a step down and T2 as a
step up.

T1's 2 turn secondary winding solders into the holes that are away
from the connectors and closest to D1.
T2's 2 turn primary winding connects directly to Q2 and Q3.

In both cases the 2 turn winding is installed pointed down in the
picture on page 10 of the manual. Jim suggested that builders mark the
2 turn winding end of the core with a marker to facilitate
installation.

Hope this helps.

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "bill_kc2yqy" <llewellyn2247@yahoo.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2012 8:33 AM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Transformers in the MB

| Hello to all.
|
| I have a question concerning the two transformers and their correct
placement on the main board. Looking from the rear of board, we see T1
on the left and T2 on the right. Looking at T1, the top of the square
says 4T. On the left hand side of the square it's 2TP-4TS. How should
I install the transformer? Looking at T2, the top of the square again
says 4T. On the left side of the square it now says 4TP-2TS. Kind of
the same deal. Can anyone tell me how to install T1 and T2 given these
observations? Thanks in advance. -Bill-
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 142|142|2012-12-14 10:27:50|bill_kc2yqy|Drill|

Hey everybody!

I just wanted to thank all of you who suggested a step drill for hole drilling in sheet metal. Works great. Nice round holes with no burrs. The project moves on . . . =Bill=

| 143|142|2012-12-14 10:29:46|WA0ITP|Re: Drill|

Fb Bill, keep us posted.

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "bill_kc2yqy" <llewellyn2247@yahoo.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2012 9:27 AM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Drill

| Hey everybody!
|
| I just wanted to thank all of you who suggested a step drill for
hole drilling in sheet metal. Works great. Nice round holes with no
burrs. The project moves on . . . =Bill=
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 144|142|2012-12-14 11:32:54|Barney|Re: Drill|

Hi;

Mine must be getting dull, I have to de-burr the inside when I use the step drill...hi.. Very glad it's working for you.

And incidentally, I had bought a set of cheap hole punches, and they work pretty good, but the pilot hole is something you have to drill before start. Anyway, I like the step drill very well.

73

Barney

On 12/14/2012 9:27 AM, bill_kc2yqy wrote:

Hey everybody!

I just wanted to thank all of you who suggested a step drill for hole drilling in sheet metal. Works great. Nice round holes with no burrs. The project moves on . . . =Bill=

| 145|145|2012-12-14 11:59:57|bill_kc2yqy|Stand offs and the MB|

I have a question for all you smart people. What do the numbers mean for a screw? Example you have 0-80, 2-56, 4-40, and 6-32 screw, I know that the second set of numbers (80, 56, 40, 32) means the number of threads per inch. I know that the first number (0, 2, 4, 6) is some how related to the diameter of the screw. Very long story short, what size stand off should I use for securing the MB board to the Ten-Tec case? It looks like they need to be around 1/4" in length, but I do not know what diameter they should be. Sorry for the length of this posting! Bill King KC2YQY

PS - Have a wonderful holiday season and thank you.

| 146|145|2012-12-14 14:41:05|shawn_kf7yff|Re: Stand offs and the MB|

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "bill_kc2yqy" wrote:

>
> I have a question for all you smart people. What do the numbers mean for a screw? Example you have 0-80, 2-56, 4-40, and 6-32 screw, I know that the second set of numbers (80, 56, 40, 32) means the number of threads per inch. I know that the first number (0, 2, 4, 6) is some how related to the diameter of the screw. Very long story short, what size stand off should I use for securing the MB board to the Ten-Tec case? It looks like they need to be around 1/4" in length, but I do not know what diameter they should be. Sorry for the length of this posting! Bill King KC2YQY
>
> PS - Have a wonderful holiday season and thank you.
>

Hello Bill. I'm not one of the smart ones, tho I've been told my mouth is. I looked up a chart for standard fasteners. 0-15 for the first number designates the diameter. And you are right about the second number being the amount of threads.So,Being the mounting hole measures 1/8th in.(#5 of 0-15, designating dia.)#4 (.013 in. smaller),would fit through just right.4-40, and whatever length needed. Shawn kf7yff

| 147|147|2012-12-14 23:39:12|wlinn.linn|First Run Today...|

Spent some time yesterday and today populating the board as per the instructions. WELL DONE! Went together without a hitch and all the progressive checks were positive.

As most builders will do, at the last check, I put out a CQ using the NS transmitter a scratch-built DC receiver. First call, was answered by K6tbw in Alturas, CA. (Sandy is one of my regular contacts and he just happened to be listening on the right spot.), Afterward, I worked one of those Battleship Memorial stations, can't remember the call and I'm not going downstairs to find it! Then I worked W7QC, Steve, near Seattle. Pretty rewarding to be able to work full break-in with the Magic-Box. Muting is very efficient, absolutely no feedback from the transmitter and the sidetone is just the ticket, nice smooth tone. (Sounds like an on-the-air signal!)

Drilled some holes in the Ten-Tec case after carefully measuring and marking. Physical inspection of the placement showed them spot on. However, this proved not to be the case! (Somehow those little 1/8 jacks moved in the process!) At any rate, some additional file work and nibbler use got it in the enclosure.

Next, will be to firm up the DC receiver with the 4 States audio filter, which came day before yesterday. Following that, will be the 4 States xtal stretcher! (It came yesterday.)

The Magic is Back! (Again.)

Bill - W7WEL

| 148|147|2012-12-15 08:30:23|WA0ITP|Re: First Run Today...|

Congrats Bill!

Thank you for supporting Four State, we appreciate it. I saw you on
the RBN and gave a shout but prop wasnt with us.

Have fun

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "wlinn.linn" <wlinn.linn@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2012 10:39 PM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] First Run Today...

| Spent some time yesterday and today populating the board as per the
instructions. WELL DONE! Went together without a hitch and all the
progressive checks were positive.
|
| As most builders will do, at the last check, I put out a CQ using
the NS transmitter a scratch-built DC receiver. First call, was
answered by K6tbw in Alturas, CA. (Sandy is one of my regular
contacts and he just happened to be listening on the right spot.),
Afterward, I worked one of those Battleship Memorial stations, can't
remember the call and I'm not going downstairs to find it! Then I
worked W7QC, Steve, near Seattle. Pretty rewarding to be able to work
full break-in with the Magic-Box. Muting is very efficient,
absolutely no feedback from the transmitter and the sidetone is just
the ticket, nice smooth tone. (Sounds like an on-the-air signal!)
|
| Drilled some holes in the Ten-Tec case after carefully measuring and
marking. Physical inspection of the placement showed them spot on.
However, this proved not to be the case! (Somehow those little 1/8
jacks moved in the process!) At any rate, some additional file work
and nibbler use got it in the enclosure.
|
| Next, will be to firm up the DC receiver with the 4 States audio
filter, which came day before yesterday. Following that, will be the
4 States xtal stretcher! (It came yesterday.)
|
| The Magic is Back! (Again.)
|
| Bill - W7WEL
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 149|149|2012-12-15 11:47:12|bill_kc2yqy|RF Adapters|

Hello to MB Users.

Does anyone out there know of a source who has a good selection of RF connectors and adapters? I mean weird ones! Thanks in advance. -Bill-
KC2YQY

| 150|149|2012-12-15 12:00:49|Rich Fowler|Re: RF Adapters|

When I was working, we always used Pasternack: http://www.pasternack.com/

There are other companies ... google your specific need.

GL,
Rich K8MEG

--- On Sat, 12/15/12, bill_kc2yqy wrote:

From: bill_kc2yqy
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] RF Adapters
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, December 15, 2012, 11:47 AM

Hello to MB Users.

Does anyone out there know of a source who has a good selection of RF connectors and adapters? I mean weird ones! Thanks in advance. -Bill-
KC2YQY

------------------------------------

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| 151|147|2012-12-15 19:53:07|blinn@sm-email.com|Re: First Run Today...|

Thanks for the note, Terry. The kit (Magic Box) is obviously top notch.
You guys are also top notch, providing us with quality QRP kits. Thanks..

Bill - W7WEL

PS: Dennis, N5DRB had hip replacement surgery yesterday and seems to be
doing OK today as he is heading back to Fort Smith from Little Rock.
This is his second surgery to that hip in about one year. The first
attempt didn't work out so they did it over..

WA0ITP wrote:

>
> Congrats Bill!
>
> Thank you for supporting Four State, we appreciate it. I saw you on
> the RBN and gave a shout but prop wasnt with us.
>
> Have fun
>
> ----------------------------------
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72 WAØITP
> www.wa0itp.com
> www.4sqrp.com
> www.qrpspots.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "wlinn.linn" <wlinn.linn@gmail.com >
> To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
> >
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2012 10:39 PM
> Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] First Run Today...
>
> | Spent some time yesterday and today populating the board as per the
> instructions. WELL DONE! Went together without a hitch and all the
> progressive checks were positive.
> |
> | As most builders will do, at the last check, I put out a CQ using
> the NS transmitter a scratch-built DC receiver. First call, was
> answered by K6tbw in Alturas, CA. (Sandy is one of my regular
> contacts and he just happened to be listening on the right spot.),
> Afterward, I worked one of those Battleship Memorial stations, can't
> remember the call and I'm not going downstairs to find it! Then I
> worked W7QC, Steve, near Seattle. Pretty rewarding to be able to work
> full break-in with the Magic-Box. Muting is very efficient,
> absolutely no feedback from the transmitter and the sidetone is just
> the ticket, nice smooth tone. (Sounds like an on-the-air signal!)
> |
> | Drilled some holes in the Ten-Tec case after carefully measuring and
> marking. Physical inspection of the placement showed them spot on.
> However, this proved not to be the case! (Somehow those little 1/8
> jacks moved in the process!) At any rate, some additional file work
> and nibbler use got it in the enclosure.
> |
> | Next, will be to firm up the DC receiver with the 4 States audio
> filter, which came day before yesterday. Following that, will be the
> 4 States xtal stretcher! (It came yesterday.)
> |
> | The Magic is Back! (Again.)
> |
> | Bill - W7WEL
> |
> |
> |
> | ------------------------------------
> |
> | Yahoo! Groups Links
> |
> |
> |
>
>

| 152|152|2012-12-16 09:00:48|bill_kc2yqy|Coaxial Adapters|

Hello To All!

Quick question regarding the BNC jacks on the MB. Should I use a BNC Male to an SO-239 adapter and go from there? What type of cable would be best? I'm not really up to speed when talking cable. There are many types. Maybe someone out there could bring me up to speed. I cannot find any answers in my library. Maybe on the net. Any help is appreciated! Have a great holiday season!

Regards, Bill K. KC2YQY

| 153|152|2012-12-16 10:11:28|Rich Fowler|Re: Coaxial Adapters|

Bill,
The solution is somewhat subjective. If it is one adapter, your solution may be good. Some people decide to enlarge the box and use PL-259 connectors at the box. My solution might be to use BNC cables to connect at the box and adapt down stream. As a matter of fact, that's is my approach. The coax I use is RG-58 because it can handle some abuse and is something that I have on hand.

The experience of finding out for yourself with give you more insight in the future. In my experience, having a collection of adapters is a good thing!

Merry Christmas to you and yours,

72,
Rich K8MEG

--- On Sun, 12/16/12, bill_kc2yqy wrote:

Quick question regarding the BNC jacks on the MB. Should I use a BNC Male to an SO-239 adapter and go from there? What type of cable would be best? I'm not really up to speed when talking cable. There are many types. Maybe someone out there could bring me up to speed. I cannot find any answers in my library. Maybe on the net. Any help is appreciated! Have a great holiday season!

Regards, Bill K. KC2YQY

------------------------------------

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<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/K8IQY-MagicBox/join
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<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
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| 154|152|2012-12-16 10:22:30|Barney|Re: Coaxial Adapters|

Hi Bill;

     I got an adapter for the antenna connector. I didn't want to change my main antenna connector. One could make a cable for that too. You know, PL259 and male BNC for the other end

     I also went to RS and bought a couple of their cables with a BNC connector on each end. Cut them in half and added a BNC to the cut off ends. I also put BNC connectors on some RG58 that I had laying around in order to get enough cables to interconnect the NS40, SS40 and MB. All are more rigid than I like. But I used what I had.

     The screw on BNC's are fairly easy to install and the smaller RG58 (50 ohm) coax, size wise, works the best. I have an abundance of cabling between the 3 units, but do-able.   Just some ideas....



73

Barney

On 12/16/2012 8:00 AM, bill_kc2yqy wrote:

Hello To All!

Quick question regarding the BNC jacks on the MB. Should I use a BNC Male to an SO-239 adapter and go from there? What type of cable would be best? I'm not really up to speed when talking cable. There are many types. Maybe someone out there could bring me up to speed. I cannot find any answers in my library. Maybe on the net. Any help is appreciated! Have a great holiday season!

Regards, Bill K. KC2YQY

| 155|152|2012-12-16 10:23:40|Lee Hiers|Re: Coaxial Adapters|

On Sun, Dec 16, 2012 at 10:11 AM, Rich Fowler <k8meg@yahoo.com> wrote:

My solution might be to use BNC cables to connect at the box and adapt down stream. As a matter of fact, that's is my approach. The coax I use is RG-58 because it can handle some abuse and is something that I have on hand.

I've pretty much standardized on BNC connectors since I went QRP almost two years ago. Not only smaller, but easier to attach and detach. I've used RG8X, but will probably be making some RG174 jumpers soon.

73 de Lee
--
Lee Hiers, AA4GA
www.aa4ga.com

Submit your totals to the unofficial QRP DXCC standings - go to http://www.aa4ga.com/p/qrp-dxcc.html for more info!

| 156|152|2012-12-16 15:13:25|shawn_kf7yff|Re: Coaxial Adapters|

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "bill_kc2yqy" wrote:

>
> Hello To All!
>
> Quick question regarding the BNC jacks on the MB. Should I use a BNC Male to an SO-239 adapter and go from there? What type of cable would be best? I'm not really up to speed when talking cable. There are many types. Maybe someone out there could bring me up to speed. I cannot find any answers in my library. Maybe on the net. Any help is appreciated! Have a great holiday season!
>
> Regards, Bill K. KC2YQY
>

Hello Bill. There certainly is a variety of cable available.And a use for it all, eventually -somewhere. I'm new at this, but I narrowed the selection down some with ruling out a few types. HF vs. VHF, UHF,etc.Certain qualities are more esential towards the higher end.And more expensive.I find low pwr. and lower frequencies cost less, making it more affordable for the farmer and the hand.Cost not the only reason - but propagational oprotunities - probably the main reason. (By the way - did you know that all farmers are outsanding in their field)? What works well for HF would not necessarialy suffice for frequencies higher.(They pay more, yet travel fewer miles here on earth). You look at loss, velocity,durability,purpose,(portable-home base,interconnecting).So flexibility would be a major factor if taking it to the field.Or short pieces that turn by degrees. If fixed in place -for good,RG8(.405 dia). has plenty of positives. It is almost twice the diameter than that of RG58(.195) though.Connectors cost more also.(Mucho mas). 8X is closer to the size of 58.(Some, not all). A few cents more, again, in cost. The jacket (covering) varies, in regards to its qualities offered. Use of BNC connectors are an advantage that HF users are priviledged with. Not so with the short antenna guys.Adaptors become part of your inventory. The next radio that shows up, may have a different sized screw.(loose). The ability to adjust is a good key way to have.Shawn R. kf7yff

| 157|152|2012-12-16 15:45:28|shawn_kf7yff|Re: Coaxial Adapters|

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "bill_kc2yqy" wrote:

>
> Hello To All!
>
> Quick question regarding the BNC jacks on the MB. Should I use a BNC Male to an SO-239 adapter and go from there? What type of cable would be best? I'm not really up to speed when talking cable. There are many types. Maybe someone out there could bring me up to speed. I cannot find any answers in my library. Maybe on the net. Any help is appreciated! Have a great holiday season!
>
> Regards, Bill K. KC2YQY
>

A correction - RG-8 is more than twice the diameter of RG-58. you might check out "Wireman" for cable and connectors. Building up your own cables does require a hefty wattage for soldering the SO-2...fittings. I managed with less, but it is not good practice. Shipping costs could be less, but I have no choice - in this town anyway, there is no 50ohm coax to be found. Take some time for the experience to be had.When you get there, where ever that may be, you have more of a story to share.(-: S.R. kf7yff

| 158|147|2012-12-16 16:25:40|WA0ITP|Re: First Run Today...|

GA Bill,

Thanks for the nice comments. I'm sri to hear that Dennis has had
surgery, never any fun. Hope it "takes" this time.

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "blinn@sm-email.com" <wlinn.linn@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2012 6:52 PM
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] First Run Today...

| Thanks for the note, Terry. The kit (Magic Box) is obviously top
notch.
| You guys are also top notch, providing us with quality QRP kits.
Thanks..
|
| Bill - W7WEL
|
| PS: Dennis, N5DRB had hip replacement surgery yesterday and seems to
be
| doing OK today as he is heading back to Fort Smith from Little Rock.
| This is his second surgery to that hip in about one year. The first
| attempt didn't work out so they did it over..
|
| WA0ITP wrote:
| >
| > Congrats Bill!
| >
| > Thank you for supporting Four State, we appreciate it. I saw you
on
| > the RBN and gave a shout but prop wasnt with us.
| >
| > Have fun
| >
| > ----------------------------------
| > I love this radio stuff !
| > 72 WAØITP
| > www.wa0itp.com
| > www.4sqrp.com
| > www.qrpspots.com
| >
| > ----- Original Message -----
| > From: "wlinn.linn" <wlinn.linn@gmail.com
>
| > To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
| > >
| > Sent: Friday, December 14, 2012 10:39 PM
| > Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] First Run Today...
| >
| > | Spent some time yesterday and today populating the board as per
the
| > instructions. WELL DONE! Went together without a hitch and all the
| > progressive checks were positive.
| > |
| > | As most builders will do, at the last check, I put out a CQ
using
| > the NS transmitter a scratch-built DC receiver. First call, was
| > answered by K6tbw in Alturas, CA. (Sandy is one of my regular
| > contacts and he just happened to be listening on the right spot.),
| > Afterward, I worked one of those Battleship Memorial stations,
can't
| > remember the call and I'm not going downstairs to find it! Then I
| > worked W7QC, Steve, near Seattle. Pretty rewarding to be able to
work
| > full break-in with the Magic-Box. Muting is very efficient,
| > absolutely no feedback from the transmitter and the sidetone is
just
| > the ticket, nice smooth tone. (Sounds like an on-the-air signal!)
| > |
| > | Drilled some holes in the Ten-Tec case after carefully measuring
and
| > marking. Physical inspection of the placement showed them spot on.
| > However, this proved not to be the case! (Somehow those little 1/8
| > jacks moved in the process!) At any rate, some additional file
work
| > and nibbler use got it in the enclosure.
| > |
| > | Next, will be to firm up the DC receiver with the 4 States audio
| > filter, which came day before yesterday. Following that, will be
the
| > 4 States xtal stretcher! (It came yesterday.)
| > |
| > | The Magic is Back! (Again.)
| > |
| > | Bill - W7WEL
| > |
| > |
| > |
| > | ------------------------------------
| > |
| > | Yahoo! Groups Links
| > |
| > |
| > |
| >
| >
|
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 159|159|2012-12-31 21:49:25|Clark|Trouble Shooting Help|

Just finished the MagicBox. Beautiful layout and top notch components. Ran into a problem with the first operational test: key down would not mute the signal into the receiver. Also noticed that something was running very hot: Q4 was hot to the touch after less than a minute.

Here is what I have done so far. I have removed the MCU and done the normal things (visual inspection, correct parts placement, etc.) but nothing is obvious. The emitter voltage of Q4 is 6.5 volt indicating which could be a sign of excessive current flow. DC resistance from the connection of the R9/R10 is only 52K which seems suspect if I understand how MOSFETS work.

The only test during the build cycle that produced funny results was the muting check: the sidetone was not fully muted.

Before I start cutting out/replacing components, I would appreciate any insight into how Q4/Q5 is supposed to work. With the MCU out of the circuit, wouldn't Q5 be OFF letting the base of Q4 float at it's bias level produced by R10? If so, then Q4 shouldn't get hot at all, right? This might be a Q5 failure.

73, Clark WU4B

| 160|159|2013-01-01 09:43:54|Barney|Re: Trouble Shooting Help|

Hi Clark;

I need some more information. Is the MagicBox totally assembled now? Are all Parts installed?

Did you make the checks as you soldered in the transistors and were there any problems there?

Do you have the J5 and J6 insulated from ground? Or not touching the cabinet, if you have it in

one.

And are you running all your cabling from and to the magic box and keying the xmtr via the MB?

In other words, the antenna, receiver and transmitter all connect to the magicbox and also the

key.

73

Barney

Maybe someone can get on here and pinpoint the problem.

On 12/31/2012 8:49 PM, Clark wrote:

Just finished the MagicBox. Beautiful layout and top notch components. Ran into a problem with the first operational test: key down would not mute the signal into the receiver. Also noticed that something was running very hot: Q4 was hot to the touch after less than a minute.

Here is what I have done so far. I have removed the MCU and done the normal things (visual inspection, correct parts placement, etc.) but nothing is obvious. The emitter voltage of Q4 is 6.5 volt indicating which could be a sign of excessive current flow. DC resistance from the connection of the R9/R10 is only 52K which seems suspect if I understand how MOSFETS work.

The only test during the build cycle that produced funny results was the muting check: the sidetone was not fully muted.

Before I start cutting out/replacing components, I would appreciate any insight into how Q4/Q5 is supposed to work. With the MCU out of the circuit, wouldn't Q5 be OFF letting the base of Q4 float at it's bias level produced by R10? If so, then Q4 shouldn't get hot at all, right? This might be a Q5 failure.

73, Clark WU4B

| 161|159|2013-01-01 16:11:11|Jim Kortge|Re: Trouble Shooting Help|

On 12/31/2012 9:49 PM, Clark wrote:

> Just finished the MagicBox. Beautiful layout and top notch components. Ran into a problem with the first operational test: key down would not mute the signal into the receiver.

That would suggest that it is not switching to the transmit mode.

Also noticed that something was running very hot: Q4 was hot to
the touch after less than a minute.

Nope, that's not at all correct. During receive, Q4 is supplying
current to the D3 PIN diode, so the current flowing is just the
reverse leakage current. Q4 sources that current and Q8 is the
current sink. Q5 turns on Q4, so the PB2 lead from the Microprocessor
should be at nearly +5 volts. The PB3 lead from the Microprocessor
should be near 0 volts during receive. When all of the transistors in
the RF switch section have been installed, the Microprocessor (MCU)
has to be installed, otherwise the control voltages on the bipolar the
FET transistors won't be there and awful things can happen.

>
> Here is what I have done so far. I have removed the MCU and done the normal things (visual inspection, correct parts placement, etc.) but nothing is obvious. The emitter voltage of Q4 is 6.5 volt indicating which could be a sign of excessive current flow.

The emitter of Q4 should be at 10 volts all of the time. If it is
less, then excessive current is being drawn and the 10 volt regulator
is probably really hot too.

Q4 could very well be hot if the MCU is missing. That has to be
installed. It has to be in the socket in the correct direction too or
it won't work. If it was/is installed backwards, it will probably be
damaged and won't work correctly again. A new, programmed MCU is needed.

DC resistance from the connection of the R9/R10 is only 52K which
seems suspect if I understand how MOSFETS work.

That junction could show a variety of resistances depending on the
condition of Q4 and Q5.

>
> The only test during the build cycle that produced funny results was the muting check: the sidetone was not fully muted.

Was it significantly attenuated?

>
> Before I start cutting out/replacing components, I would appreciate any insight into how Q4/Q5 is supposed to work.

See above. Q5 turns on Q4 when PB2 is high, which is its normal state
during receive. That pair turns off during transmit, and Q7 sinks the
current coming through D3 from the Q10-Q9 pair which are turned on
during tranmsit.

With the MCU out of the circuit, wouldn't Q5 be OFF letting the
base of Q4 float at it's bias level produced by R10?

Yes, if Q5 is actually off. A small static charge on the open gate
can turn it on. If that happens and Q7 is turned on via static or
residual gate charge, then the 10 volt power is shorted to ground via
Q4 being on and Q7 being on. Q5-Q4 and Q7 are NEVER on at the same
time. Ditto for Q10-Q9 and Q8. That's why the MCU has to be working
to assure that the correct control voltages are applied to the FET gates.

If so, then Q4 shouldn't get hot at all, right?

Q4 should never run hot. None of the transistor should.

This might be a Q5 failure.

Yes, or a MCU failure or one that somehow never got programmed. We
had one of those sometime in the past I believe.

>
> 73, Clark WU4B

72 and sorry to hear you are having problems Clark. We will get it
running, that's a promise.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

PS....does the MCU have a silver paint dab on it?

>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

| 162|159|2013-01-01 22:16:50|Clark|Re: Trouble Shooting Help|

Hi, Barney. Just got back from a full day trip visiting family in Huntsville. In answer to your questions:

The MagicBox is totally assembled.

I did make the checks as the transistors were soldered into place. The only check that produced somewhat fuzzy results was the test with Q11/12/13: the muting was not complete although the sidetone level dropped significantly.

The unit is not installed in a cabinet but sitting on the workbench. J5 and J6 are not insulated from PC ground as that was not indicated in the build instructions.

The test that failed is that on the top of p.14 where there is no transmitter connected to the MB. I use the Elecraft XG1 set to 50 microV and have the MB cabled as directed: key into J8 of the MB. I can find the 40m signal just fine (using a SS40 receiver connected to MB). Key down does not change the signal level at all as the instructions indicate it should.

It seems that no one has any problems with the MB so I have this suspicion that I have done something very stupid--I just can't find it.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Clark WU4B

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Barney wrote:
>
> Hi Clark;
>
> I need some more information. Is the MagicBox totally assembled
> now? Are all Parts installed?
>
> Did you make the checks as you soldered in the transistors and were
> there any problems there?
>
> Do you have the J5 and J6 insulated from ground? Or not touching the
> cabinet, if you have it in
>
> one.
>
> And are you running all your cabling from and to the magic box and
> keying the xmtr via the MB?
>
> In other words, the antenna, receiver and transmitter all connect to the
> magicbox and also the
>
> key.
>
> 73
>
> Barney
>
> Maybe someone can get on here and pinpoint the problem.
>
>
>
>
> On 12/31/2012 8:49 PM, Clark wrote:
> >
> > Just finished the MagicBox. Beautiful layout and top notch components.
> > Ran into a problem with the first operational test: key down would not
> > mute the signal into the receiver. Also noticed that something was
> > running very hot: Q4 was hot to the touch after less than a minute.
> >
> > Here is what I have done so far. I have removed the MCU and done the
> > normal things (visual inspection, correct parts placement, etc.) but
> > nothing is obvious. The emitter voltage of Q4 is 6.5 volt indicating
> > which could be a sign of excessive current flow. DC resistance from
> > the connection of the R9/R10 is only 52K which seems suspect if I
> > understand how MOSFETS work.
> >
> > The only test during the build cycle that produced funny results was
> > the muting check: the sidetone was not fully muted.
> >
> > Before I start cutting out/replacing components, I would appreciate
> > any insight into how Q4/Q5 is supposed to work. With the MCU out of
> > the circuit, wouldn't Q5 be OFF letting the base of Q4 float at it's
> > bias level produced by R10? If so, then Q4 shouldn't get hot at all,
> > right? This might be a Q5 failure.
> >
> > 73, Clark WU4B
> >
> >
>

| 163|159|2013-01-01 22:21:18|Clark|Re: Trouble Shooting Help|

Jim, thanks for the circuit detail; that is exactly what I need. I don't like willy-nilly changing things to "get it to work" unless that is the last resort.

You've given me a lot to try including putting the MCU back in the circuit. Yes it does have a silver/grey dab of paint on it. Let me chase through some of the suggestions you have made below and I'll get back to you.

Clark WU4B

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> On 12/31/2012 9:49 PM, Clark wrote:
> > Just finished the MagicBox. Beautiful layout and top notch components. Ran into a problem with the first operational test: key down would not mute the signal into the receiver.
>
> That would suggest that it is not switching to the transmit mode.
>
> Also noticed that something was running very hot: Q4 was hot to
> the touch after less than a minute.
>
> Nope, that's not at all correct. During receive, Q4 is supplying
> current to the D3 PIN diode, so the current flowing is just the
> reverse leakage current. Q4 sources that current and Q8 is the
> current sink. Q5 turns on Q4, so the PB2 lead from the Microprocessor
> should be at nearly +5 volts. The PB3 lead from the Microprocessor
> should be near 0 volts during receive. When all of the transistors in
> the RF switch section have been installed, the Microprocessor (MCU)
> has to be installed, otherwise the control voltages on the bipolar the
> FET transistors won't be there and awful things can happen.
> >
> > Here is what I have done so far. I have removed the MCU and done the normal things (visual inspection, correct parts placement, etc.) but nothing is obvious. The emitter voltage of Q4 is 6.5 volt indicating which could be a sign of excessive current flow.
>
> The emitter of Q4 should be at 10 volts all of the time. If it is
> less, then excessive current is being drawn and the 10 volt regulator
> is probably really hot too.
>
> Q4 could very well be hot if the MCU is missing. That has to be
> installed. It has to be in the socket in the correct direction too or
> it won't work. If it was/is installed backwards, it will probably be
> damaged and won't work correctly again. A new, programmed MCU is needed.
>
> DC resistance from the connection of the R9/R10 is only 52K which
> seems suspect if I understand how MOSFETS work.
>
> That junction could show a variety of resistances depending on the
> condition of Q4 and Q5.
> >
> > The only test during the build cycle that produced funny results was the muting check: the sidetone was not fully muted.
>
> Was it significantly attenuated?
> >
> > Before I start cutting out/replacing components, I would appreciate any insight into how Q4/Q5 is supposed to work.
>
> See above. Q5 turns on Q4 when PB2 is high, which is its normal state
> during receive. That pair turns off during transmit, and Q7 sinks the
> current coming through D3 from the Q10-Q9 pair which are turned on
> during tranmsit.
>
> With the MCU out of the circuit, wouldn't Q5 be OFF letting the
> base of Q4 float at it's bias level produced by R10?
>
> Yes, if Q5 is actually off. A small static charge on the open gate
> can turn it on. If that happens and Q7 is turned on via static or
> residual gate charge, then the 10 volt power is shorted to ground via
> Q4 being on and Q7 being on. Q5-Q4 and Q7 are NEVER on at the same
> time. Ditto for Q10-Q9 and Q8. That's why the MCU has to be working
> to assure that the correct control voltages are applied to the FET gates.
>
> If so, then Q4 shouldn't get hot at all, right?
>
> Q4 should never run hot. None of the transistor should.
>
> This might be a Q5 failure.
>
> Yes, or a MCU failure or one that somehow never got programmed. We
> had one of those sometime in the past I believe.
>
> >
> > 73, Clark WU4B
>
> 72 and sorry to hear you are having problems Clark. We will get it
> running, that's a promise.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS....does the MCU have a silver paint dab on it?
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

| 164|159|2013-01-01 23:02:54|Barney|Re: Trouble Shooting Help|

At the bottom of page 17 the manual talks about insulating the barrels of J5 and J6 from the case. I made the holes in the cabinet larger and put some heat shrink tubing around the jacks.

I can relate to putting the wrong part in or something of that nature. Or even suspecting something like that. I had some trouble with the magicbox, but of my own doing. I got a 3904 in with the 7000's and also failed to scrape the ends of the leads from the binocular coils. I hate when that happens. At least I didn't destroy the board, and got it fixed.

72/73

Barney

On 1/1/2013 9:16 PM, Clark wrote:

Hi, Barney. Just got back from a full day trip visiting family in Huntsville. In answer to your questions:

The MagicBox is totally assembled.

I did make the checks as the transistors were soldered into place. The only check that produced somewhat fuzzy results was the test with Q11/12/13: the muting was not complete although the sidetone level dropped significantly.

The unit is not installed in a cabinet but sitting on the workbench. J5 and J6 are not insulated from PC ground as that was not indicated in the build instructions.

The test that failed is that on the top of p.14 where there is no transmitter connected to the MB. I use the Elecraft XG1 set to 50 microV and have the MB cabled as directed: key into J8 of the MB. I can find the 40m signal just fine (using a SS40 receiver connected to MB). Key down does not change the signal level at all as the instructions indicate it should.

It seems that no one has any problems with the MB so I have this suspicion that I have done something very stupid--I just can't find it.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Clark WU4B

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Barney wrote:
>
> Hi Clark;
>
> I need some more information. Is the MagicBox totally assembled
> now? Are all Parts installed?
>
> Did you make the checks as you soldered in the transistors and were
> there any problems there?
>
> Do you have the J5 and J6 insulated from ground? Or not touching the
> cabinet, if you have it in
>
> one.
>
> And are you running all your cabling from and to the magic box and
> keying the xmtr via the MB?
>
> In other words, the antenna, receiver and transmitter all connect to the
> magicbox and also the
>
> key.
>
> 73
>
> Barney
>
> Maybe someone can get on here and pinpoint the problem.
>
>
>
>
> On 12/31/2012 8:49 PM, Clark wrote:
> >
> > Just finished the MagicBox. Beautiful layout and top notch components.
> > Ran into a problem with the first operational test: key down would not
> > mute the signal into the receiver. Also noticed that something was
> > running very hot: Q4 was hot to the touch after less than a minute.
> >
> > Here is what I have done so far. I have removed the MCU and done the
> > normal things (visual inspection, correct parts placement, etc.) but
> > nothing is obvious. The emitter voltage of Q4 is 6.5 volt indicating
> > which could be a sign of excessive current flow. DC resistance from
> > the connection of the R9/R10 is only 52K which seems suspect if I
> > understand how MOSFETS work.
> >
> > The only test during the build cycle that produced funny results was
> > the muting check: the sidetone was not fully muted.
> >
> > Before I start cutting out/replacing components, I would appreciate
> > any insight into how Q4/Q5 is supposed to work. With the MCU out of
> > the circuit, wouldn't Q5 be OFF letting the base of Q4 float at it's
> > bias level produced by R10? If so, then Q4 shouldn't get hot at all,
> > right? This might be a Q5 failure.
> >
> > 73, Clark WU4B
> >
> >
>

| 165|159|2013-01-02 16:16:01|Clark Macaulay|Re: Trouble Shooting Help|

Thanks for the reminder, Barney, about the sleeving. When I put it into a case, I'll be sure and insulate the jacks at that time!

Now...where DID I mess up? Stay tuned...

Clark

On Tue, Jan 1, 2013 at 11:02 PM, Barney <barneyro@windstream.net> wrote:

--
72,

Clark WU4B

"It is vain to do with more what can be done with less."-- William of Occam (1288 AD - 1348 AD)

| 166|159|2013-01-02 22:26:01|Clark|Re: Trouble Shooting Help|

Jim,

Problem solved. Turned out to be an unsoldered pin 1 on the MCU socket. It was very hard for these tired old eyes (70 yrs old) to see even with strong light and a magnifier. Just to be sure, all pins on the MCU socket were reheated (without the MCU installed, of course).

When putting a socket in place on a PC board, I solder a few end pins, then reheat and push down to make sure it is flat. The remaining pins are soldered in place. I must have forgotten to do pin 1.

So I DID mess up---but I also found and fixed the problem. Like Terry WA0ITP says "I really like this radio stuff" (or something to that affect).

Thanks for the circuit description. It allowed me to look elsewhere than just focusing on Q4 and Q5 which, as it turned out, was not the problem.

72,

Clark WU4B

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> On 12/31/2012 9:49 PM, Clark wrote:
> > Just finished the MagicBox. Beautiful layout and top notch components. Ran into a problem with the first operational test: key down would not mute the signal into the receiver.
>
> That would suggest that it is not switching to the transmit mode.
>
> Also noticed that something was running very hot: Q4 was hot to
> the touch after less than a minute.
>
> Nope, that's not at all correct. During receive, Q4 is supplying
> current to the D3 PIN diode, so the current flowing is just the
> reverse leakage current. Q4 sources that current and Q8 is the
> current sink. Q5 turns on Q4, so the PB2 lead from the Microprocessor
> should be at nearly +5 volts. The PB3 lead from the Microprocessor
> should be near 0 volts during receive. When all of the transistors in
> the RF switch section have been installed, the Microprocessor (MCU)
> has to be installed, otherwise the control voltages on the bipolar the
> FET transistors won't be there and awful things can happen.
> >
> > Here is what I have done so far. I have removed the MCU and done the normal things (visual inspection, correct parts placement, etc.) but nothing is obvious. The emitter voltage of Q4 is 6.5 volt indicating which could be a sign of excessive current flow.
>
> The emitter of Q4 should be at 10 volts all of the time. If it is
> less, then excessive current is being drawn and the 10 volt regulator
> is probably really hot too.
>
> Q4 could very well be hot if the MCU is missing. That has to be
> installed. It has to be in the socket in the correct direction too or
> it won't work. If it was/is installed backwards, it will probably be
> damaged and won't work correctly again. A new, programmed MCU is needed.
>
> DC resistance from the connection of the R9/R10 is only 52K which
> seems suspect if I understand how MOSFETS work.
>
> That junction could show a variety of resistances depending on the
> condition of Q4 and Q5.
> >
> > The only test during the build cycle that produced funny results was the muting check: the sidetone was not fully muted.
>
> Was it significantly attenuated?
> >
> > Before I start cutting out/replacing components, I would appreciate any insight into how Q4/Q5 is supposed to work.
>
> See above. Q5 turns on Q4 when PB2 is high, which is its normal state
> during receive. That pair turns off during transmit, and Q7 sinks the
> current coming through D3 from the Q10-Q9 pair which are turned on
> during tranmsit.
>
> With the MCU out of the circuit, wouldn't Q5 be OFF letting the
> base of Q4 float at it's bias level produced by R10?
>
> Yes, if Q5 is actually off. A small static charge on the open gate
> can turn it on. If that happens and Q7 is turned on via static or
> residual gate charge, then the 10 volt power is shorted to ground via
> Q4 being on and Q7 being on. Q5-Q4 and Q7 are NEVER on at the same
> time. Ditto for Q10-Q9 and Q8. That's why the MCU has to be working
> to assure that the correct control voltages are applied to the FET gates.
>
> If so, then Q4 shouldn't get hot at all, right?
>
> Q4 should never run hot. None of the transistor should.
>
> This might be a Q5 failure.
>
> Yes, or a MCU failure or one that somehow never got programmed. We
> had one of those sometime in the past I believe.
>
> >
> > 73, Clark WU4B
>
> 72 and sorry to hear you are having problems Clark. We will get it
> running, that's a promise.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS....does the MCU have a silver paint dab on it?
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

| 167|159|2013-01-02 22:36:25|Barney|Re: Trouble Shooting Help|

Hi Clark;

That's a good deal. Not much wrong and found it and fixed it. I had an intermittent on a kit I have been working on and discovered the same thing. One end of a Mylar capacitor was not soldered.. taking the board out of the case was more trouble than the fixing.

73

Barney

On 1/2/2013 9:25 PM, Clark wrote:

Jim,

Problem solved. Turned out to be an unsoldered pin 1 on the MCU socket. It was very hard for these tired old eyes (70 yrs old) to see even with strong light and a magnifier. Just to be sure, all pins on the MCU socket were reheated (without the MCU installed, of course).

When putting a socket in place on a PC board, I solder a few end pins, then reheat and push down to make sure it is flat. The remaining pins are soldered in place. I must have forgotten to do pin 1.

So I DID mess up---but I also found and fixed the problem. Like Terry WA0ITP says "I really like this radio stuff" (or something to that affect).

Thanks for the circuit description. It allowed me to look elsewhere than just focusing on Q4 and Q5 which, as it turned out, was not the problem.

72,

Clark WU4B

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> On 12/31/2012 9:49 PM, Clark wrote:
> > Just finished the MagicBox. Beautiful layout and top notch components. Ran into a problem with the first operational test: key down would not mute the signal into the receiver.
>
> That would suggest that it is not switching to the transmit mode.
>
> Also noticed that something was running very hot: Q4 was hot to
> the touch after less than a minute.
>
> Nope, that's not at all correct. During receive, Q4 is supplying
> current to the D3 PIN diode, so the current flowing is just the
> reverse leakage current. Q4 sources that current and Q8 is the
> current sink. Q5 turns on Q4, so the PB2 lead from the Microprocessor
> should be at nearly +5 volts. The PB3 lead from the Microprocessor
> should be near 0 volts during receive. When all of the transistors in
> the RF switch section have been installed, the Microprocessor (MCU)
> has to be installed, otherwise the control voltages on the bipolar the
> FET transistors won't be there and awful things can happen.
> >
> > Here is what I have done so far. I have removed the MCU and done the normal things (visual inspection, correct parts placement, etc.) but nothing is obvious. The emitter voltage of Q4 is 6.5 volt indicating which could be a sign of excessive current flow.
>
> The emitter of Q4 should be at 10 volts all of the time. If it is
> less, then excessive current is being drawn and the 10 volt regulator
> is probably really hot too.
>
> Q4 could very well be hot if the MCU is missing. That has to be
> installed. It has to be in the socket in the correct direction too or
> it won't work. If it was/is installed backwards, it will probably be
> damaged and won't work correctly again. A new, programmed MCU is needed.
>
> DC resistance from the connection of the R9/R10 is only 52K which
> seems suspect if I understand how MOSFETS work.
>
> That junction could show a variety of resistances depending on the
> condition of Q4 and Q5.
> >
> > The only test during the build cycle that produced funny results was the muting check: the sidetone was not fully muted.
>
> Was it significantly attenuated?
> >
> > Before I start cutting out/replacing components, I would appreciate any insight into how Q4/Q5 is supposed to work.
>
> See above. Q5 turns on Q4 when PB2 is high, which is its normal state
> during receive. That pair turns off during transmit, and Q7 sinks the
> current coming through D3 from the Q10-Q9 pair which are turned on
> during tranmsit.
>
> With the MCU out of the circuit, wouldn't Q5 be OFF letting the
> base of Q4 float at it's bias level produced by R10?
>
> Yes, if Q5 is actually off. A small static charge on the open gate
> can turn it on. If that happens and Q7 is turned on via static or
> residual gate charge, then the 10 volt power is shorted to ground via
> Q4 being on and Q7 being on. Q5-Q4 and Q7 are NEVER on at the same
> time. Ditto for Q10-Q9 and Q8. That's why the MCU has to be working
> to assure that the correct control voltages are applied to the FET gates.
>
> If so, then Q4 shouldn't get hot at all, right?
>
> Q4 should never run hot. None of the transistor should.
>
> This might be a Q5 failure.
>
> Yes, or a MCU failure or one that somehow never got programmed. We
> had one of those sometime in the past I believe.
>
> >
> > 73, Clark WU4B
>
> 72 and sorry to hear you are having problems Clark. We will get it
> running, that's a promise.
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>
> PS....does the MCU have a silver paint dab on it?
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

| 168|159|2013-01-03 08:22:20|Jim Kortge|Re: Trouble Shooting Help|

On 1/2/2013 10:25 PM, Clark wrote:

> Jim,

Good morning Clark,

>
> Problem solved. Turned out to be an unsoldered pin 1 on the MCU socket.

Yipes! That would do it.! :-)

It was very hard for these tired old eyes (70 yrs old) to see even
with strong light and a magnifier.

I have that same problem, and getting worse day-by-day.

Just to be sure, all pins on the MCU socket were reheated (without
the MCU installed, of course).

Good way to do it. I've had the same issue many times in the past,
forgetting to solder all of the pins on a socket.

>
> When putting a socket in place on a PC board, I solder a few end pins, then reheat and push down to make sure it is flat.

I think most of us do it that way. It assures that the socket is down
tight to the top of the PCB.

The remaining pins are soldered in place. I must have forgotten
to do pin 1.

>
> So I DID mess up---but I also found and fixed the problem. Like Terry WA0ITP says "I really like this radio stuff" (or something to that affect).
>
> Thanks for the circuit description. It allowed me to look elsewhere than just focusing on Q4 and Q5 which, as it turned out, was not the problem.

So happy that you found the problem. If you think some of the parts
were damaged by excessive hear, we can replace those. Just let me or
Terry know.

72 and thanks for the update,

Jim, K8IQY

| 169|169|2013-01-25 23:24:48|Mike Aiello|Finished my Magic Box today, maybe a problem?|

Hello all,

I finished the build of my MB today (very nice kit BTW), and went through all of the step checks while installing transistors, and the operational checks at the end. Everything checks out as expected, but I noticed that the S-meter on my receiver was kicking up over S9+ while transmitting through the MB. This seems incorrect to me, shouldn't the recv antenna input be grounded?

It passed the test with the signal generator where keying should mute the the signal in the recv - this is the first operational check, and in my case the 50uv signal was completely gone when I key through the MB.

Is it possible that the receive audio is muting, but the receive antenna connection is not shorting to ground? If that is the case, which transistors would be suspect?

Thanks in advance for any light anyone can shed on this, I must admit I don't really understand how the shunt switching works by looking at the schematic.

73,
Mike N2HTT

| 170|169|2013-01-26 13:44:37|Jim Kortge|Re: Finished my Magic Box today, maybe a problem?|

On 1/25/2013 11:24 PM, Mike Aiello wrote:

> Hello all,

Hello Mike,

>
> I finished the build of my MB today (very nice kit BTW),

Nice to hear! Thank you......

and went through all of the step checks while installing
transistors, and the operational checks at the end. Everything checks
out as expected,

Good show.

but I noticed that the S-meter on my receiver was kicking up over
S9+ while transmitting through the MB. This seems incorrect to me,

It isn't.....

shouldn't the recv antenna input be grounded?

It is. Have you tried directly shorting the input of your receiver
and firing up a transmitter at 5-watts into your antenna while it is
receiving? I'll bet you will have a lot of signal indicated on the
S-meter under those conditions. S9 on a calibrated meter is on the
order of 50 microvolts, so not much signal at all. If I've done the
math correctly, 16 volt rms (5-watts) down to 50 microvolts rms
(approximately 0.07 nanowatts) is a power ratio of 110 dB.

>
> It passed the test with the signal generator where keying should mute the the signal in the recv - this is the first operational check, and in my case the 50uv signal was completely gone when I key through the MB.

Good, it is working as designed.

>
> Is it possible that the receive audio is muting, but the receive antenna connection is not shorting to ground?

I very much doubt it. My guess from what you have described it that
it is working as it should.

If that is the case, which transistors would be suspect?

Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q6. During receive, Q1 and Q2 are conducting and Q6
and Q3 are open, and the opposite of those conditions are in effect
when transmitting, that is, Q1 and Q2 are open, and Q6 and Q3 are
conducting. The setup is a pair of series-shunt switch switches with
greater than 90 dB of isolation between the transmit and receive ports
during transmit.

>
> Thanks in advance for any light anyone can shed on this, I must admit I don't really understand how the shunt switching works by looking at the schematic.

Hopefully, the above info will help you understand what is happening
on the receiver side of the box.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 171|169|2013-01-26 21:39:42|Mike Aiello|Re: Finished my Magic Box today, maybe a problem?|

Jim,
You are absolutely right - I tried the experiment you suggested, with the receive ant. shorted, while transmitting 4 watts into my antenna, and I do indeed see the S9+ indication on the receiver.

Which means... YES! my MB is working!

Now on to packaging it in an enclosure.

Thanks also for your description of the recv. shunt switch - I will go through the schematic again, I'm sure I will get it this time.

Great kit, and thanks again for the help

73,
Mike N2HTT

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
> shouldn't the recv antenna input be grounded?
>
> It is. Have you tried directly shorting the input of your receiver
> and firing up a transmitter at 5-watts into your antenna while it is
> receiving? I'll bet you will have a lot of signal indicated on the
> S-meter under those conditions. S9 on a calibrated meter is on the
> order of 50 microvolts, so not much signal at all. If I've done the
> math correctly, 16 volt rms (5-watts) down to 50 microvolts rms
> (approximately 0.07 nanowatts) is a power ratio of 110 dB.
> >

> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

| 172|172|2013-02-02 12:58:24|Mike Aiello|MB in its enclosure... one small problem|

Hello all,

I got my MB into it's enclosure this week, using the recommended TenTec TP41. Everything is working except the tune/spot switch. I opted to use a center off dpdt, using the wiring diagram from the 4states qrp website:

http://www.wa0itp.com/mbmagicbox.html

(scroll down to the bottom of this page to see the sketches)

Problem is - it tunes in both positions, but I don't hear the rcvr audio superimposed in either position. I thought in the spot function you would hear the side tone and the rcvr audio mixed, and tune the rcvr until you zero beat the sidetone. Is that how it is supposed to work?

Anyway it looks really slick in the box, and I will post pictures as soon as I get the tune/spot thing figured out

73.
Mike N2HTT

| 173|172|2013-02-02 13:33:30|WA0ITP|Re: MB in its enclosure... one small problem|

Hi Mike,

In the spot position you zero beat the transmitter to the 700 HZ tone, You
should be hearing only the sidetone generated by the audio oscillator Q14, and a
small amount of transmitter signal bled into J6 via R46.

Hope this helps.
----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Aiello" <n2htt.mike@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 11:58 AM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] MB in its enclosure... one small problem

| Hello all,
|
| I got my MB into it's enclosure this week, using the recommended TenTec TP41.
Everything is working except the tune/spot switch. I opted to use a center off
dpdt, using the wiring diagram from the 4states qrp website:
|
| http://www.wa0itp.com/mbmagicbox.html
|
| (scroll down to the bottom of this page to see the sketches)
|
| Problem is - it tunes in both positions, but I don't hear the rcvr audio
superimposed in either position. I thought in the spot function you would hear
the side tone and the rcvr audio mixed, and tune the rcvr until you zero beat
the sidetone. Is that how it is supposed to work?
|
| Anyway it looks really slick in the box, and I will post pictures as soon as I
get the tune/spot thing figured out
|
| 73.
| Mike N2HTT
|
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 174|172|2013-02-02 17:08:28|Jim Kortge|Re: MB in its enclosure... one small problem|

On 2/2/2013 12:58 PM, Mike Aiello wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I got my MB into it's enclosure this week, using the recommended TenTec TP41. Everything is working except the tune/spot switch. I opted to use a center off dpdt, using the wiring diagram from the 4states qrp website:
>
> http://www.wa0itp.com/mbmagicbox.html
>
> (scroll down to the bottom of this page to see the sketches)
>
> Problem is - it tunes in both positions,

That's correct.....

but I don't hear the rcvr audio superimposed in either position.

That's a problem.

I thought in the spot function you would hear the side tone and the
rcvr audio mixed,

Also correct......

and tune the rcvr until you zero beat the sidetone. Is that how it
is supposed to work?

Yes. I'm guessing the problem is the value of R46. It needs to be
100 Ohms or less to mix in the sidetone; 10 Meg is way too big and was
supplied with the early kits. I think I have a 32 Ohm in one of mine
which is close to the impedance of the speaker that I use. You can
fiddle with the R46 value until you have the right levels for your setup.

>
> Anyway it looks really slick in the box,

Good.......

and I will post pictures as soon as I get the tune/spot thing
figured out

See above, hopefully, it is the info you need.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 175|172|2013-02-02 17:18:51|Mike Aiello|Re: MB in its enclosure... one small problem|

Once again, you have nailed it. This is an ah-ha moment... when I inventoried the parts I found the 100 ohm resistor, and noted that the schematic and the manual called for the 10meg resistor, so I rooted around in my junk box and found one...

This will be an easy fix.

I will post photos when I have it all together

Thanks and 73,
Mike N2HTT

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, Jim Kortge wrote:
>
> ...
>
> and tune the rcvr until you zero beat the sidetone. Is that how it
> is supposed to work?
>
> Yes. I'm guessing the problem is the value of R46. It needs to be
> 100 Ohms or less to mix in the sidetone; 10 Meg is way too big and was
> supplied with the early kits. I think I have a 32 Ohm in one of mine
> which is close to the impedance of the speaker that I use. You can
> fiddle with the R46 value until you have the right levels for your setup.
> See above, hopefully, it is the info you need.
>
> ...
>
> 72,
>
> Jim, K8IQY
>

| 176|176|2013-02-07 10:16:31|Lee Hiers|Completed MagicBox|

Another MB finally completed!

I had some problems with the hole drilling, so I ended up moving the BNCs off the board and onto the front panel. I also wired in a small 100 Ohm trimmer for the spot bleed-through resistor.

Works great - great kit!

See here: http://www.aa4ga.com/2013/02/magicbox.html

73 de Lee

--
Lee Hiers, AA4GA

www.aa4ga.com

Submit your totals to the unofficial QRP DXCC standings - go to http://www.aa4ga.com/p/qrp-dxcc.html for more info!

| 177|176|2013-02-07 11:21:01|Jim Kortge|Re: Completed MagicBox|

On 2/7/2013 10:16 AM, Lee Hiers wrote:

>
>
> Another MB finally completed!

Great to hear Lee.

>
> I had some problems with the hole drilling, so I ended up moving the
> BNCs off the board and onto the front panel.

Maybe we need to revisit the drilling template? I've not used it so
really don't how well it works. Terry, can you look into this?

I also wired in a small

> 100 Ohm trimmer for the spot bleed-through resistor.

Good idea. If I ever redesign the PCB I'll add that in.

>
> Works great - great kit!

Nice to hear. Thanks for your review and comments.

>
> See here: http://www.aa4ga.com/2013/02/magicbox.html

Wonderful to see an R4 strapped to the MagicBox. Just what it was
designed to do.

72 and have fun,

Jim, K8IQY

| 178|176|2013-02-07 12:29:57|Rich Fowler|MagicBox drill template|

Jim and others,

Some of the trouble that I personally had with the template had to do with my .pdf print settings. Typically, my setting is for 90% scale to ensure I get everything printed and for other conveniences.

After printing a template at 100%, I punched out a piece of cardboard. It's more expendable than PCB. Hitting the exact center cross is a challenge for shaky hands and blurred vision. I used a safety pin to locate the center, BTW. I should have used multiple pins to verify that I was dead on with everything! Using this cardboard template, I made another so I didn't lose the centers.

I used a hand punch to make the holes. Trying to mount the punched cardboard on the MB PCB, I find that I'm slightly off center. Wondering where I went wrong, I noticed that some of my hardware is mounted slightly skewed. So what to do??? I wondered if I should have punched holes first, mounted the hardware and then solder to PCB. Too late for that! I'll make the adjustment when I punch the real panel...well it sorta worked but still had to enlarge some holes a little to get a fit.

In the end, I was wondering if it would have been better to have the dimensions rather than a template or both. If I had taken my time and worked thru spacing, printer results, center locations, etc, I could have done better. Oh well, maybe the next time.

72,
Rich

| 179|176|2013-02-07 13:11:47|Barney|Re: MagicBox drill template|

Hi;

      The printer was my problem also. I had a problem with the SS-40, holes off a little and parts slightly skewed and an anxiety to 'get it in the box and see what it does' syndrome...hi

      I don't really think it had anything to do with the layout. Just tight tolerances that I couldn't maintain...

    73

Barney

==============================================

On 2/7/2013 11:29 AM, Rich Fowler wrote:

Jim and others,

Some of the trouble that I personally had with the template had to do with my .pdf print settings. Typically, my setting is for 90% scale to ensure I get everything printed and for other conveniences.

After printing a template at 100%, I punched out a piece of cardboard. It's more expendable than PCB. Hitting the exact center cross is a challenge for shaky hands and blurred vision. I used a safety pin to locate the center, BTW. I should have used multiple pins to verify that I was dead on with everything! Using this cardboard template, I made another so I didn't lose the centers.

I used a hand punch to make the holes. Trying to mount the punched cardboard on the MB PCB, I find that I'm slightly off center. Wondering where I went wrong, I noticed that some of my hardware is mounted slightly skewed. So what to do??? I wondered if I should have punched holes first, mounted the hardware and then solder to PCB. Too late for that! I'll make the adjustment when I punch the real panel...well it sorta worked but still had to enlarge some holes a little to get a fit.

In the end, I was wondering if it would have been better to have the dimensions rather than a template or both. If I had taken my time and worked thru spacing, printer results, center locations, etc, I could have done better. Oh well, maybe the next time.

72,
Rich

| 180|176|2013-02-07 13:14:03|Lee Hiers|Re: MagicBox drill template|

On Thu, Feb 7, 2013 at 1:11 PM, Barney <barneyro@windstream.net> wrote:

I don't really think it had anything to do with the layout. Just tight tolerances that I couldn't maintain...

Like I said to Jim offline: my own lack of mechanical skills!

73 de Lee

| 181|176|2013-02-07 14:35:04|Gary Marklund|Re: MagicBox drill template|

I'm glad someone has finally fessed up to this problem. I managed to ruin three Tp-41 boxes before I gave up. Think I'll try another after relocating the BNCs to pre-drilled front panel controls. I'm anxious to try this out with my SS-40 and Drake 2B receivers.

Gary

On Thursday, February 7, 2013, Rich Fowler wrote:

Jim and others,

Some of the trouble that I personally had with the template had to do with my .pdf print settings. Typically, my setting is for 90% scale to ensure I get everything printed and for other conveniences.

After printing a template at 100%, I punched out a piece of cardboard. It's more expendable than PCB. Hitting the exact center cross is a challenge for shaky hands and blurred vision. I used a safety pin to locate the center, BTW. I should have used multiple pins to verify that I was dead on with everything! Using this cardboard template, I made another so I didn't lose the centers.

I used a hand punch to make the holes. Trying to mount the punched cardboard on the MB PCB, I find that I'm slightly off center. Wondering where I went wrong, I noticed that some of my hardware is mounted slightly skewed. So what to do??? I wondered if I should have punched holes first, mounted the hardware and then solder to PCB. Too late for that! I'll make the adjustment when I punch the real panel...well it sorta worked but still had to enlarge some holes a little to get a fit.

In the end, I was wondering if it would have been better to have the dimensions rather than a template or both. If I had taken my time and worked thru spacing, printer results, center locations, etc, I could have done better. Oh well, maybe the next time.

72,
Rich

--
73,

Gary KJ7RT
Sun City, AZ
Fists #14460 NAQCC #3709

| 182|176|2013-02-08 11:59:05|Jim Kortge|Re: MagicBox drill template|

Attachments :

On 2/7/2013 12:29 PM, Rich Fowler wrote:

>
>
> Jim and others,
>
> Some of the trouble that I personally had with the template had to do
> with my .pdf print settings. Typically, my setting is for 90% scale to
> ensure I get everything printed and for other conveniences.
>
> After printing a template at 100%, I punched out a piece of cardboard.
> It's more expendable than PCB. Hitting the exact center cross is a
> challenge for shaky hands and blurred vision. I used a safety pin to
> locate the center, BTW. I should have used multiple pins to verify
> that I was dead on with everything! Using this cardboard template, I
> made another so I didn't lose the centers.
>
> I used a hand punch to make the holes. Trying to mount the punched
> cardboard on the MB PCB, I find that I'm slightly off center.
> Wondering where I went wrong, I noticed that some of my hardware is
> mounted slightly skewed. So what to do??? I wondered if I should have
> punched holes first, mounted the hardware and then solder to PCB. Too
> late for that! I'll make the adjustment when I punch the real
> panel...well it sorta worked but still had to enlarge some holes a
> little to get a fit.
>
> In the end, I was wondering if it would have been better to have the
> dimensions rather than a template or both. If I had taken my time and
> worked thru spacing, printer results, center locations, etc, I could
> have done better. Oh well, maybe the next time.
>
> 72,
> Rich
>

Rich,

Thanks for the information you provide above. I took a look at the
problem this morning and created a document that, hopefully,addresses
the issues. I've attached it so that you and Terry have copies to
review and comment on. In the meantime, maybe Terry can put it out on
the web so other can see it and pass along their comments or questions.

Thanks for the help and 72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 183|176|2013-02-08 16:22:23|Rich Fowler|Re: MagicBox drill template|

Thanks Jim, I have another MB to build and will use this info.

I used grid paper to check your measurements and they are ok from a mathematical point of view, however in your text you need to correct your paragraph stating with Comparing the PCB..... to read "a difference of 0.080 inches" and further in the text... "0.040 needs to be added"

Actually the case inter dimension is 5.375. I believe you made the chart using the measurement on the bottom of the PCB and so measurements are reversed?

Hope this helps!
Rich

--- On Fri, 2/8/13, Jim Kortge wrote:

From: Jim Kortge
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] MagicBox drill template
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Cc: "Rich Fowler"
Date: Friday, February 8, 2013, 11:58 AM

On 2/7/2013 12:29 PM, Rich Fowler wrote:
>
>
> Jim and others,
>
> Some of the trouble that I personally had with the template had to do
> with my .pdf print settings. Typically, my setting is for 90% scale to
> ensure I get everything printed and for other conveniences.
>
> After printing a template at 100%, I punched out a piece of cardboard.
> It's more expendable than PCB. Hitting the exact center cross is a
> challenge for shaky hands and blurred vision. I used a safety pin to
> locate the center, BTW. I should have used multiple pins to verify
> that I was dead on with everything! Using this cardboard template, I
> made another so I didn't lose the centers.
>
> I used a hand punch to make the holes. Trying to mount the punched
> cardboard on the MB PCB, I find that I'm slightly off center.
> Wondering where I went wrong, I noticed that some of my hardware is
> mounted slightly skewed. So what to do??? I wondered if I should have
> punched holes first, mounted the hardware and then solder to PCB. Too
> late for that! I'll make the adjustment when I punch the real
> panel...well it sorta worked but still had to enlarge some holes a
> little to get a fit.
>
> In the end, I was wondering if it would have been better to have the
> dimensions rather than a template or both. If I had taken my time and
> worked thru spacing, printer results, center locations, etc, I could
> have done better. Oh well, maybe the next time.
>
> 72,
> Rich
>
Rich,

Thanks for the information you provide above. I took a look at the
problem this morning and created a document that, hopefully,addresses
the issues. I've attached it so that you and Terry have copies to
review and comment on. In the meantime, maybe Terry can put it out on
the web so other can see it and pass along their comments or questions.

Thanks for the help and 72,

Jim, K8IQY

------------------------------------

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<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
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| 184|176|2013-02-08 17:04:04|Jim Kortge|Re: MagicBox drill template|

Attachments :

On 2/8/2013 4:22 PM, Rich Fowler wrote:

>
>
> Thanks Jim, I have another MB to build and will use this info.

OK, cool.

>
> I used grid paper to check your measurements and they are ok from a
> mathematical point of view, however in your text you need to correct
> your paragraph stating with Comparing the PCB..... to read "a
> difference of 0.080 inches" and further in the text... "0.040 needs to
> be added"

I fixed that so it reads more clearly, hopefully.

>
> Actually the case inter dimension is 5.375.

On my one and only case, it measures 5.380 inches with my vernier caliper.

I believe you made the

> chart using the measurement on the bottom of the PCB

I took the PCB measurements off of the PCB layout image in Eagle; I
suppose the PCB might be a tad larger or smaller depending on how
accurately it was sheared at the PCB house.

and so

> measurements are reversed?

I don't think so. The X-dimensions of the PCB is 5.300 inches and is
0.080 smaller than the inside width of the TP-41 box, which I measure
at 5.380 inches

>
> Hope this helps!

It does. Thanks.

Updated version of the document is attached.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 185|176|2013-02-08 17:42:41|Rich Fowler|Re: MagicBox drill template|

I didn't see any changes in the pdf file.???

| 186|176|2013-02-08 18:57:55|Jim Kortge|Re: MagicBox drill template|

Attachments :

Rich and Terry,

Here is another flavor of the document with the locations of the
mounting holes added in. That data should be helpful to some of the
builders.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 187|187|2013-02-17 08:12:15|Graham|Magicbox problem|

Hi all, after fitting a replacement 10 volt reg. kindly sent to me by Paul and a couple of dry joints it's now working giving 5watts from my FT817 but now I've noticed a problem! the MB seems to be muting the signals; when I press the key it gives 5w into the ant. when I release the key the signals appear loud for approx. 1 second then drop 50%. I wonder if you have any suggestions? regards Graham G3UD

| 188|188|2013-02-17 09:26:44|Graham|MB problem|

Hi all, please disregard my question : seems Iwas listening to the FT817 receiver ,works great with a separate receiver LOL! Pleased to be with an excellent group regards Graham G3UD

| 189|188|2013-02-17 09:31:31|WA0ITP|Re: MB problem|

Excellent Graham, Enjoy the MB..

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham" <grahambloor7@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2013 8:26 AM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] MB problem

| Hi all, please disregard my question : seems Iwas listening to the FT817
receiver ,works great with a separate receiver LOL! Pleased to be with an
excellent group regards Graham G3UD
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|

| 190|190|2013-02-25 12:44:49|WA0ITP|Director's Meeting in Branson.|

GM Gents,

Below is a list of those who volunteered to be directors of Four State.
According to our by-laws we need to have an annual business meeting, and
sometime during the OzarkCon weekend seems the best and most logical place to
schedule it. The meetings will be low key and mostly a formality, but they are
a neccessity.

This is a note to ask when you would like to have the meeting. Friday evening
and Saturday activites make it impossible to schedule it during those times.
Perhaps sometime Friday afternoon or Saturday directly after the festivities
might work, or is another time and place that works for you..

I can get a room for us at the Stonecastle or we could find a meeting room in
Branson someplace if you prefer. We're all coming from various distances so
please let me know your thoughts.

After I schedule the meeting, I'll be sending out an additional email with the
time and place and the agenda.

Please plan to attend this important first Director's meeting. If you are
unable to attend OzarkCon, please let me know that also. I've already heard
from Jim and Rich that they can't make it this year.

Thanx es ttul. 72 Terry

Johnny Matlock, AC0BQ
Walter Dufrain K5EST
Rich Fowler K8MEG
Herb Case WR9H
Jim Kortge K8IQY
Dave Cripe NM0S
Paul Smith N0NBD
Ron Potter AG1P
Terry Fletcher WA0ITP

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

| 191|190|2013-02-25 15:59:23|Johnny Matlock|Re: Director's Meeting in Branson.|

Hey Terry and the group.

Pam and I will be arriving Thursday afternoon as well so anytime after that would be fine with me.

Johnny AC0BQ

On Monday, February 25, 2013, WA0ITP wrote:
GM Gents,

Below is a list of those who volunteered to be directors of Four State.
According to our by-laws we need to have an annual business meeting, and
sometime during the OzarkCon weekend seems the best and most logical place to
schedule it. The meetings will be low key and mostly a formality, but they are
a neccessity.

This is a note to ask when you would like to have the meeting. Friday evening
and Saturday activites make it impossible to schedule it during those times.
Perhaps sometime Friday afternoon or Saturday directly after the festivities
might work, or is another time and place that works for you..

I can get a room for us at the Stonecastle or we could find a meeting room in
Branson someplace if you prefer. We're all coming from various distances so
please let me know your thoughts.

After I schedule the meeting, I'll be sending out an additional email with the
time and place and the agenda.

Please plan to attend this important first Director's meeting. If you are
unable to attend OzarkCon, please let me know that also. I've already heard
from Jim and Rich that they can't make it this year.

Thanx es ttul. 72 Terry

Johnny Matlock, AC0BQ
Walter Dufrain K5EST
Rich Fowler K8MEG
Herb Case WR9H
Jim Kortge K8IQY
Dave Cripe NM0S
Paul Smith N0NBD
Ron Potter AG1P
Terry Fletcher WA0ITP

----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAŘITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

| 192|190|2013-02-25 20:45:16|Paul Smith|Re: Director's Meeting in Branson.|

Terry, Toodles says we will travel on Wednesday or Thursday... I suspect we will hit there fore noon on Thursday. I will be there whenever needed.
Paul

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 25, 2013, at 11:44 AM, "WA0ITP" <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

> GM Gents,
>
> Below is a list of those who volunteered to be directors of Four State.
> According to our by-laws we need to have an annual business meeting, and
> sometime during the OzarkCon weekend seems the best and most logical place to
> schedule it. The meetings will be low key and mostly a formality, but they are
> a neccessity.
>
> This is a note to ask when you would like to have the meeting. Friday evening
> and Saturday activites make it impossible to schedule it during those times.
> Perhaps sometime Friday afternoon or Saturday directly after the festivities
> might work, or is another time and place that works for you..
>
> I can get a room for us at the Stonecastle or we could find a meeting room in
> Branson someplace if you prefer. We're all coming from various distances so
> please let me know your thoughts.
>
> After I schedule the meeting, I'll be sending out an additional email with the
> time and place and the agenda.
>
> Please plan to attend this important first Director's meeting. If you are
> unable to attend OzarkCon, please let me know that also. I've already heard
> from Jim and Rich that they can't make it this year.
>
> Thanx es ttul. 72 Terry
>
> Johnny Matlock, AC0BQ
> Walter Dufrain K5EST
> Rich Fowler K8MEG
> Herb Case WR9H
> Jim Kortge K8IQY
> Dave Cripe NM0S
> Paul Smith N0NBD
> Ron Potter AG1P
> Terry Fletcher WA0ITP
>
> ----------------------------------
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72 WAØITP
> www.wa0itp.com
> www.4sqrp.com
> www.qrpspots.com
>
>
>

| 193|193|2013-03-05 16:24:05|bxyza|looking for Enclosure for Magic Box|

Hi,

I just got my Magic Box kit. I have to say I am impressed with the board for this kit. I expect to have no issues building this kit.

However while I am pretty good and soldering projects I admit I am not the sheet metal fabricator and would like to see if anyone could product for the cabinet enclosure. I have seen several very professional looking examples on the web.

If you have a interest to build me an enclosure please contact my email at bill.bathgate at Yahoo dot com.
73,
KD8IGK

| 194|194|2013-09-25 17:04:37|ct1bww|K8IQY MagicBOX is a great option|

Anyone as idea if this KIt will ve avilable again?

I'm really interested

73s frm Marq CT1BWW

| 195|194|2013-09-25 17:19:21|Jim Kortge|Re: K8IQY MagicBOX is a great option|

On 9/25/2013 5:04 PM, ct1bww@yahoo.com wrote:

>
>
> Hi
>
>
> Anyone as idea if this KIt will ve avilable again?
> I'm really interested
>
> 73s frm Marq CT1BWW
>
>
>
>

Marq,

Currently being discussed whether we do another run or not. Sounds
like you are interested.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 196|194|2013-09-27 18:20:26|ct1bww|Re: K8IQY MagicBOX is a great option|

Hi Jim,

Thanks for reply. I hope so, i think with some more publicity here on Europe perhaps others became interesting too.

73s and All the best

frm Marq CT1BWW

---In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, wrote:

On 9/25/2013 5:04 PM, ct1bww@... wrote:

>
>
> Hi
>
>
> Anyone as idea if this KIt will ve avilable again?
> I'm really interested
>
> 73s frm Marq CT1BWW
>
>
>
>

Marq,

Currently being discussed whether we do another run or not. Sounds
like you are interested.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 197|194|2013-09-27 23:26:37|gmnilges|Re: K8IQY MagicBOX is a great option|

Put me down as an Interested party as well!

TU wf0gmn

---In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, wrote:

On 9/25/2013 5:04 PM, ct1bww@... wrote:

>
>
> Hi
>
>
> Anyone as idea if this KIt will ve avilable again?
> I'm really interested
>
> 73s frm Marq CT1BWW
>
>
>
>

Marq,

Currently being discussed whether we do another run or not. Sounds
like you are interested.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 198|194|2013-10-18 17:13:53|ct1bww|Re: K8IQY MagicBOX is a great option|

Jim

What is the minimum number os interest people to perform PCB's programating Atmega?

Can we make a list? I think de idea on Polls will be good.

This is Not pressure, just a idea

73s frm Marq CT1BWW

---In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, wrote:

On 9/25/2013 5:04 PM, ct1bww@... wrote:

>
>
> Hi
>
>
> Anyone as idea if this KIt will ve avilable again?
> I'm really interested
>
> 73s frm Marq CT1BWW
>
>
>
>

Marq,

Currently being discussed whether we do another run or not. Sounds
like you are interested.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 199|194|2013-10-19 02:06:23|Mangin Ben|Re: K8IQY MagicBOX is a great option|

I'm in for several boards (or several kits)

de F8GRY

Le Vendredi 18 octobre 2013 23h13, "ct1bww@yahoo.com" a écrit :

Jim

What is the minimum number os interest people to perform PCB's programating Atmega?

Can we make a list? I think de idea on Polls will be good.

This is Not pressure, just a idea

73s frm Marq CT1BWW

---In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, wrote:

On 9/25/2013 5:04 PM, ct1bww@... wrote:

>
>
> Hi
>
>
> Anyone as idea if this KIt will ve avilable again?
> I'm really interested
>
> 73s frm Marq CT1BWW
>
>
>
>

Marq,

Currently being discussed whether we do another run or not. Sounds
like you are interested.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 200|194|2013-10-19 02:29:44|Kirk Kleinschmidt|Re: K8IQY MagicBOX is a great option|

I doubt I could stop myself from buying 1-2, kits or board/chips. :)

Thanks,

--Kirk, NT0Z

My book, "Stealth Amateur Radio," is now available from
www.stealthamateur.com and on the Amazon Kindle (soon)

On Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:28 AM, Mangin Ben wrote:

I'm in for several boards (or several kits)

de F8GRY

Le Vendredi 18 octobre 2013 23h13, "ct1bww@yahoo.com" a écrit :

Jim

What is the minimum number os interest people to perform PCB's programating Atmega?
Can we make a list? I think de idea on Polls will be good.
This is Not pressure, just a idea

73s frm Marq CT1BWW

---In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, wrote:

On 9/25/2013 5:04 PM, ct1bww@... wrote:

>
>
> Hi
>
>
> Anyone as idea if this KIt will ve avilable again?
> I'm really interested
>
> 73s frm Marq CT1BWW
>
>
>
>

Marq,

Currently being discussed whether we do another run or not. Sounds
like you are interested.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 201|201|2013-10-19 09:17:55|WA0ITP|K8IQY MagicBox Availability|

Thank you for your interest in the Magic Box.

A new run is being planned and parts are being ordered. An announcement will be made when it is available.
----------------------------------
Real radios weigh less than a pound.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

| 202|194|2013-10-19 09:18:48|WA0ITP|Re: K8IQY MagicBOX is a great option|

Thank you Kirk, see the previous note to the MB reflector.

----------------------------------
Real radios weigh less than a pound.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: Kirk Kleinschmidt

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:29 AM

Subject: Re: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] K8IQY MagicBOX is a great option

I doubt I could stop myself from buying 1-2, kits or board/chips. :)

Thanks,

--Kirk, NT0Z

My book, "Stealth Amateur Radio," is now available from
www.stealthamateur.com and on the Amazon Kindle (soon)

On Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:28 AM, Mangin Ben <uft1278@yahoo.fr> wrote:

I'm in for several boards (or several kits)

de F8GRY

Le Vendredi 18 octobre 2013 23h13, "ct1bww@yahoo.com" a écrit :

Jim

What is the minimum number os interest people to perform PCB's programating Atmega?

Can we make a list? I think de idea on Polls will be good.

This is Not pressure, just a idea

73s frm Marq CT1BWW

---In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, wrote:

On 9/25/2013 5:04 PM, ct1bww@... wrote:

>
>
> Hi
>
>
> Anyone as idea if this KIt will ve avilable again?
> I'm really interested
>
> 73s frm Marq CT1BWW
>
>
>
>

Marq,

Currently being discussed whether we do another run or not. Sounds
like you are interested.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 203|201|2013-10-20 14:56:33|ct1bww|Re: K8IQY MagicBox Availability|

This is a GREAT NEWS|

Thanks

72 CT1BWW

---In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, wrote:

Thank you for your interest in the Magic Box.

A new run is being planned and parts are being ordered. An announcement will be made when it is available.
----------------------------------
Real radios weigh less than a pound.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

| 204|201|2013-10-29 07:34:06|logullo@sbcglobal.net|Re: K8IQY MagicBox Availability|

I'm ready to order one when they return!
72,
Jeff N0MII

--- In K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com, "WA0ITP" wrote:
>
> Thank you for your interest in the Magic Box.
>
> A new run is being planned and parts are being ordered. An announcement will be made when it is available.

| 205|201|2013-10-30 07:34:11|Johnny|Re: K8IQY MagicBox Availability|

Gm Jeff
We are currently ordering parts for the re-stock go the Magic Box kits.
I would estimate about 2 weeks to get the kits on the shelf!
I will post here and the 4sQRP web site.
Thanks for the intrest, It's a sweet kit!
72
Johnny AC0BQ
4SQRP

"More smiles per Watt!"
Sent from my iPad

| 206|206|2013-10-30 07:52:36|Mangin Ben|Réf.: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: K8IQY MagicBox Availability|

how many kits should be available in this batch ?

I have been interested for a long time, for several kits, so I will be very cautious about your infos.

Thank you very much !

DE f8gry

------------------------------
Le mer. 30 oct. 2013 12:34 HNEC, Johnny a écrit :

>Gm Jeff
>We are currently ordering parts for the re-stock go the Magic Box kits.
>I would estimate about 2 weeks to get the kits on the shelf!
>I will post here and the 4sQRP web site.
>Thanks for the intrest, It's a sweet kit!
>72
>Johnny AC0BQ
>4SQRP
>
>"More smiles per Watt!"
>Sent from my iPad

| 207|201|2013-10-31 05:14:45|n17sawdoctor|Re: K8IQY MagicBox Availability|

Yes, I am delighted too. I missed out on the last run. Looking forward to seeing one coming my way here in Dublin, Ireland.

---In k8iqy-magicbox@yahoogroups.com, wrote:

Gm Jeff
We are currently ordering parts for the re-stock go the Magic Box kits.
I would estimate about 2 weeks to get the kits on the shelf!
I will post here and the 4sQRP web site.
Thanks for the intrest, It's a sweet kit!
72
Johnny AC0BQ
4SQRP

"More smiles per Watt!"
Sent from my iPad

| 208|208|2013-10-31 06:55:48|Johnny|Re new kits|

We're setting up for 100 kits on this run.
72
Johnny AC0BQ

"More smiles per Watt!"
Sent from my iPad

| 211|211|2013-12-12 16:46:16|WA0ITP|MB Web page|

Hokay the page is updated. Pse take a look and see if I've made any mistakes.
I corrected a few of the olde links that I had messed up. Pse double check them
in case I blew it this time too. http://www.4sqrp.com/MagicBox.php

Thanx much..

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

| 212|211|2013-12-12 17:01:13|Jim Kortge|Re: MB Web page|

On 12/12/2013 4:46 PM, WA0ITP wrote:

> Hokay the page is updated. Pse take a look and see if I've made any mistakes.
> I corrected a few of the olde links that I had messed up. Pse double check them
> in case I blew it this time too. http://www.4sqrp.com/MagicBox.php
>
> Thanx much..
>
> ----------------------------------
> Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72 WA0ITP
> www.wa0itp.com
> www.4sqrp.com
>

I just took a quick glance. Seems like the fonts are awfully large on
my browser. I didn't check any of the links. Are we ready to ship again?

72 and thanks,

Jim, K8IQY

| 213|213|2013-12-19 09:34:11|kevincrossett|Magic box and rockmite 40|

Newbie homebrewer and ham here so be kind. I am getting ready to assemble a Magic Box TR switch. I don't have a basic transmitter to test once I finish the build. I do have a Rockmite 40 and an Elecraft K2. Is there any problem connecting the Rockmite as the transmitter and the K2 as the receiver? I don't want to fry anything, so I thought I would ask.

Thanks for any insight.

Kevin
KK4LSG

| 214|213|2013-12-19 10:42:44|WA0ITP|Re: Magic box and rockmite 40|

Hi Kevin,

Should be no problem. I once used my ATS3 and K2 with the Magic Box and it worked fine. That QSO was a cross band QSO, lotsa fun.

If you have any build questions, jump right in and ask them.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: kcrossett@gmail.com

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 8:34 AM

Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Magic box and rockmite 40

Newbie homebrewer and ham here so be kind. I am getting ready to assemble a Magic Box TR switch. I don't have a basic transmitter to test once I finish the build. I do have a Rockmite 40 and an Elecraft K2. Is there any problem connecting the Rockmite as the transmitter and the K2 as the receiver? I don't want to fry anything, so I thought I would ask.

Thanks for any insight.

Kevin
KK4LSG

| 215|213|2013-12-19 10:45:59|Gmail|Re: Magic box and rockmite 40|

Thanks much. I am sure I wi have a few questions during the build.

Cheers

Kevin

On Dec 19, 2013, at 10:43, "WA0ITP" <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

Hi Kevin,

Should be no problem. I once used my ATS3 and K2 with the Magic Box and it worked fine. That QSO was a cross band QSO, lotsa fun.

If you have any build questions, jump right in and ask them.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: kcrossett@gmail.com

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 8:34 AM

Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Magic box and rockmite 40

Newbie homebrewer and ham here so be kind. I am getting ready to assemble a Magic Box TR switch. I don't have a basic transmitter to test once I finish the build. I do have a Rockmite 40 and an Elecraft K2. Is there any problem connecting the Rockmite as the transmitter and the K2 as the receiver? I don't want to fry anything, so I thought I would ask.

Thanks for any insight.

Kevin
KK4LSG

| 216|213|2013-12-19 18:37:52|Paul Smith|Re: Magic box and rockmite 40|

Kevin, as far as I know it would be fine. You might join the magic box group at yahoo or the 4state group at yahoo. There are many builders and the designer that monitor both groups. Enjoy the kit.

de Paul N0NBD

Sent from my iPad

On Dec 19, 2013, at 8:34 AM, <kcrossett@gmail.com> wrote:

Newbie homebrewer and ham here so be kind. I am getting ready to assemble a Magic Box TR switch. I don't have a basic transmitter to test once I finish the build. I do have a Rockmite 40 and an Elecraft K2. Is there any problem connecting the Rockmite as the transmitter and the K2 as the receiver? I don't want to fry anything, so I thought I would ask.

Thanks for any insight.

Kevin
KK4LSG

| 217|213|2013-12-19 20:44:02|Kevin Crossett|Re: Magic box and rockmite 40|

Thanks Paul. I am a member of the Yahoo Magic Box group. As a new ham and someone with little electronics experience, I just wanted to confirm my own thought process that there should be no issue with using a transceiver as a transmitter. I plan to build up a manhattan style transmitter in the new year, hence the reason for the magic box. Looking forward to building it. BTW, I am looking at that cyclone transceiver as a possible project in 2014, hi hi

thx

Kevin

On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 at 6:37 PM, Paul Smith <psmith61@cox.net> wrote:

Kevin, as far as I know it would be fine. You might join the magic box group at yahoo or the 4state group at yahoo. There are many builders and the designer that monitor both groups. Enjoy the kit.

de Paul N0NBD

Sent from my iPad

On Dec 19, 2013, at 8:34 AM, <kcrossett@gmail.com> wrote:

Newbie homebrewer and ham here so be kind. I am getting ready to assemble a Magic Box TR switch. I don't have a basic transmitter to test once I finish the build. I do have a Rockmite 40 and an Elecraft K2. Is there any problem connecting the Rockmite as the transmitter and the K2 as the receiver? I don't want to fry anything, so I thought I would ask.

Thanks for any insight.

Kevin
KK4LSG

| 218|218|2013-12-30 13:32:03|robin.gripp|Inductors|

Advice needed for a novice constructor.

In my kit there are no moulded 100 uH inductors as described, but there are three thin square brown/tan components labelled 37L 223 on one face that I do not recognise; do I go ahead and make a direct substitution?

As a near-beginner to amateur radio kit building, I feel I should seek advice before making a preventable mistake.

Regards,

Robin.

| 219|218|2013-12-30 14:04:07|Jim Kortge|Re: Inductors|

On 12/30/2013 1:32 PM, robin.gripp@yahoo.com wrote:

Hi Robin,

>
>
> Advice needed for a novice constructor.

Certainly.

>
> In my kit there are no moulded 100 uH inductors as described,

There should be 3 of those molded inductors; the are about the same
size as a resistor, but with the color code of brown, black, brown,
and tolerance band of gold.

but
> there are three thin square brown/tan components labelled 37L 223 on
> one face that I do not recognise;

Those are the 0.022 uF capacitors, C19, C20, and C21 that are used in
the sidetone oscillator circuitry.

do I go ahead and make a direct
> substitution?

No, don't do that, those parts can't be substituted.

>
> As a near-beginner to amateur radio kit building, I feel I should seek
> advice before making a preventable mistake.

I'm glad you did. Look at the parts again and try to find those
molded inductors. If they are missing, contact Paul Smith
<psmith@neosho.edu> for replacements.

>
> Regards,

72 Robin,

Jim, K8IQY

| 220|220|2014-01-02 21:29:11|kevincrossett|voltage checks|

This might be a dumb question, but here it goes... I am at the regulator stage of the magic box build. I have installed both the 5 volt and 10 volt regulators in their appropriate places on the board. I have installed the shorting shunt on header 14 per the manual and I applied 13.8 volts to J1. My question is where I do put my test leads to check the voltages. I assume my positive lead will be placed on individual resistor pads at R1 (left pad) and then R25 (left pad) respectively. Do I place them on the left pad while looking at the top of the board, or the left pad when the board is flipped upside down. Also, where does the negative lead go? I placed it on the bottom of the board under J1 and I get the correct voltages, I think, but I may be seeing bad numbers if I don't have the leads in the correct locations. Thanks for any insight.

Kevin

KK4LSG

| 221|220|2014-01-03 10:45:32|Jim Kortge|Re: voltage checks|

On 1/2/2014 9:29 PM, kcrossett@gmail.com wrote:

>
>
> This might be a dumb question,

The only dumb questions are the ones that are not asked. :-)

but here it goes... I am at the

> regulator stage of the magic box build. I have installed both the 5
> volt and 10 volt regulators in their appropriate places on the board.
> I have installed the shorting shunt on header 14 per the manual and I
> applied 13.8 volts to J1. My question is where I do put my test leads
> to check the voltages. I assume my positive lead will be placed on
> individual resistor pads at R1 (left pad) and then R25 (left pad)
> respectively.

Yes, that is correct, and the negative lead of your voltmeter should
be grounded; either of the large mounting pads (where the holes are)
on the PCB will work for that.

Do I place them on the left pad while looking at the top

> of the board, or the left pad when the board is flipped upside down.

Looking at the PCB so that the writing it upright. The IC socket is
to the left of the two regulators when the PCB is oriented correct for
those measurements.

> Also, where does the negative lead go? I placed it on the bottom of
> the board under J1 and I get the correct voltages, I think, but I may
> be seeing bad numbers if I don't have the leads in the correct
> locations. Thanks for any insight.

See above comments. You're doing fine!

72 and have fun Kevin, and thanks for purchasing a MagicBox from 4
State QRP,

Jim, K8IQY

| 222|220|2014-01-03 11:17:07|Kevin Crossett|Re: voltage checks|

Thanks for the response, Jim. I did eventually figure out that the mounting points were grounds. I made the measurements. R1 measured 5.970 VDC and R25 measured 9.970 VDC. I think I'm good to go to the next phase.

Cheers and Happy New Year.

Kevin

KK4LSG

On Fri, Jan 3, 2014 at 10:45 AM, Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com> wrote:

On 1/2/2014 9:29 PM, kcrossett@gmail.com wrote:

This might be a dumb question,

The only dumb questions are the ones that are not asked. :-)

but here it goes... I am at the

regulator stage of the magic box build. I have installed both the 5
volt and 10 volt regulators in their appropriate places on the board.
I have installed the shorting shunt on header 14 per the manual and I
applied 13.8 volts to J1. My question is where I do put my test leads
to check the voltages. I assume my positive lead will be placed on
individual resistor pads at R1 (left pad) and then R25 (left pad)
respectively.

Yes, that is correct, and the negative lead of your voltmeter should be grounded; either of the large mounting pads (where the holes are) on the PCB will work for that.

Do I place them on the left pad while looking at the top

of the board, or the left pad when the board is flipped upside down.

Looking at the PCB so that the writing it upright. The IC socket is to the left of the two regulators when the PCB is oriented correct for those measurements.

Also, where does the negative lead go? I placed it on the bottom of
the board under J1 and I get the correct voltages, I think, but I may
be seeing bad numbers if I don't have the leads in the correct
locations. Thanks for any insight.

See above comments. You're doing fine!

72 and have fun Kevin, and thanks for purchasing a MagicBox from 4 State QRP,

Jim, K8IQY

| 223|220|2014-01-03 11:39:15|Jim Kortge|Re: voltage checks|

On 1/3/2014 11:17 AM, Kevin Crossett wrote:

> Thanks for the response, Jim. I did eventually figure out that the
> mounting points were grounds. I made the measurements. R1 measured
> 5.970 VDC

5.970 volts seems awfully high. Please repeat that one again. I
would expect 5.00 volts plus or minus 0.25 volts.

and R25 measured 9.970 VDC.

That one looks OK.

I think I'm good to go to the

> next phase.

Well maybe....lets make sure the 5 volt rail is correct.

> Cheers and Happy New Year.

Thanks, and to you also.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

> Kevin
> KK4LSG

| 224|220|2014-01-03 12:07:00|Kevin Crossett|Re: voltage checks|

Oh, sorry. I am at work and don't have the equipment here... I think I meant to say 4.970. I will check when I get home. Thanks for the followup...

Kevin

On Fri, Jan 3, 2014 at 11:39 AM, Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com> wrote:

On 1/3/2014 11:17 AM, Kevin Crossett wrote:

Thanks for the response, Jim. I did eventually figure out that the
mounting points were grounds. I made the measurements. R1 measured
5.970 VDC

5.970 volts seems awfully high. Please repeat that one again. I would expect 5.00 volts plus or minus 0.25 volts.

and R25 measured 9.970 VDC.

That one looks OK.

I think I'm good to go to the

next phase.

Well maybe....lets make sure the 5 volt rail is correct.

Cheers and Happy New Year.

Thanks, and to you also.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

Kevin
KK4LSG

| 225|220|2014-01-03 20:39:22|kevincrossett|Re: voltage checks|

So I'm home now. My measurements are as follows:

R1 -- 4.970 vdc

R25 -- 9.70 vdc

Sorry for the confusion. The R25 value is a little below the .25 vdc limit, but unless I hear otherwise from this group, I think it will be OK to proceed.

Thanks for the great support, and for the great board.

Kevin

KK4LSG

| 226|220|2014-01-03 22:23:18|Jim Kortge|Re: voltage checks|

On 1/3/2014 8:39 PM, kcrossett@gmail.com wrote:

>
>
> So I'm home now. My measurements are as follows:
>
> R1 -- 4.970 vdc

Very good! Right on voltage.

>
> R25 -- 9.70 vdc

Also right on!

>
>
> Sorry for the confusion. The R25 value is a little below the .25 vdc
> limit, but unless I hear otherwise from this group, I think it will be
> OK to proceed.

Those are both close enough. Build on!! :-)

>
>
> Thanks for the great support, and for the great board.

Happy to be able to help. I hope you are having fun.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 227|227|2014-01-04 18:10:08|kevincrossett|Success and now enclosure and wiring questions|

Success with the magic box … everything seems to check out OK. I have never really spotted or tuned with a separate receive and transmitter, but I'm confident I will figure that part out.

Now, I have some question on installing the board in a TP-41 case and I have some wiring questions for the various switches… Lots of questions, sorry...

Wiring questions:

J14: Do I need to observe polarity when attaching a SPST switch? I don't believe I do, but wanted to check. Also what does N/O mean in the packaging considerations document?

J12: Same question, do I need to observe polarity when installing the LED wiring? If so, which pin is + and which is -?

J13: Same question as J12

J7 and J10: I plan to use a DPDT switch for this one. But … what kind of cable do I need for J10. I read that the cable has a shield. Is there a name for this type of cable? I assume that I attach the shield to one of the pins on the PCB. Do I just cut off the other end of the shield? Is there a wiring diagram to make the connections? If not, what is the jumper wire on the DPDT? Is it for the LED?

enclosure

If I read the Magic Box Connector and Mounting Hole Locations document correctly, the Z coordinate is taken from the outside bottom of the TP-41 enclosure? Is that correct. I am referring to the second set of coordinates on that page.

What are the holes for, and what does the Y coordinate 3.80 represent?

| 228|227|2014-01-04 19:38:10|Jim Kortge|Re: Success and now enclosure and wiring questions|

On 1/4/2014 6:10 PM, kcrossett@gmail.com wrote:

>
>
> Success with the magic box â€¦ everything seems to check out OK.

Most excellent! :-)

I

> have never really spotted or tuned with a separate receive and
> transmitter, but I'm confident I will figure that part out.

We can help if you aren't able to figure it out.

>
>
> Now, I have some question on installing the board in a TP-41 case and
> I have some wiring questions for the various switchesâ€¦ Lots of
> questions, sorry...

That's OK.

>
> Wiring questions:
> J14:

That's the power on - off switch header.

Do I need to observe polarity when attaching a SPST switch?

No.

I

> don't believe I do, but wanted to check. Also what does N/O mean in
> the packaging considerations document?

N/O is short for normally open; N/C would be of course, normally closed.

>
> J12:

That's the power "on" indicator LED. The LED has an anode and
cathode, and the power has to flow from anode to cathode for it to
light up. The connector pin (upper) adjacent to R47 is the + lead.
But, you really don't have to worry about it, just wire up the mating
header to those two J12 pins, and if the LED doesn't light up, reverse
the mating header to change the polarity.

Same question, do I need to observe polarity when installing the

> LED wiring? If so, which pin is + and which is -?
>
> J13: Same question as J12

Same answer almost. The positive pin on the J13 header is the lower
pin adjacent to R48.

>
> J7 and J10: I plan to use a DPDT switch for this one.

You want to be sure to use a center off type of switch here, so it has
actually three positions, left, center, and right. The left and right
positions are the active ones giving "Spot" and "Tune".

But â€¦ what

> kind of cable do I need for J10. I read that the cable has a shield.
> Is there a name for this type of cable?

Two wire shielded cable. One could also use three wire microphone
cable, where the third wire is also the shield.

I assume that I attach the

> shield to one of the pins on the PCB.

Yes, that is correct.

Do I just cut off the other end

> of the shield?

Yes.

Is there a wiring diagram to make the connections?

On the web site and also I believe in an addendum in the Assembly
Manual, but maybe not. I'll look into that. I'm not sure we have the
latest version of the Assembly Manual on the web site.

If

> not, what is the jumper wire on the DPDT? Is it for the LED?

No, the bottom part of the switch is used to key the transmitter. That
part of the switch keys the transmitter, so the outside contacts are
tied together so that the transmitter is keyed in either switch
direction. In one position, TUNE, the transmitter only is turned on
and the receiver is muted. In the SPOT position, controlled by the
upper contacts of the switch, the transmitter is keyed on and the
receiver audio is fed through to the speaker, so that the transmitted
signal can be heard and the receiver tuned to the transmitter or vice
versa.

>
>
> enclosure
>
> If I read the Magic Box Connector and Mounting Hole Locations document
> correctly, the Z coordinate is taken from the outside bottom of the
> TP-41 enclosure?

I believe that is correct. I did not do that part of the
documentation, Terry, WA0ITP did, so maybe he will jump in here and
answer the TP-41 enclosure questions.

Is that correct. I am referring to the second set of

> coordinates on that page.

I don't know; I've never put any of my MagicBox PCB's in that case.

>
> What are the holes for,

For mounting the PCB in the case via its connectors on the front of
the PCB.

and what does the Y coordinate 3.80 represent?

Might be the hole needed in the back of the case where the power
connector is be located?

I hope I've helped some!

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 229|227|2014-01-04 21:14:47|kevincrossett|Re: Success and now enclosure and wiring questions|

Thanks Jim. I am sourcing some toggle switches now and some two-wire shielded cable for the connections. Other than the N/O designation, do I need to ensure I have a certain voltage rate switch, or will any do?

I should have been more clear on the enclosure question. I was referring to the holes that refer to the Y coordinate. I think they may be for mounting the standoffs on the back of the board. Maybe Terry has some insight.

Now, on to the remaining questions for now…

What pins on J10 do I connect the shielded audio cables to, and which one do I connect to the shield?

Maybe a better question would be (and this applies to all of the pins on the PCB) … How do I determine which pin is positive, negative and, in the case of J10, the shield? I would rather learn how to determine these kinds of things as opposed to just asking the experts.

Also, is it possible to replace R32 with a pot so I can adjust the sidetone volume via a front panel adjustment? If so, what pins connect to the various pot connections? If I recall from my previous experiments, the wiper is the center pin on the pot and the right and left control the resistance. Can I just reference the location on the PCB to make those connections? In other words, can I attach the left rear of R32 to the left pot and the right rear to the right side of R32 to the right pot connector, then connect the center pot pin to the top hole on the PCB? If this is not correct, then I would appreciate a lesson on determining the right connections.

Jim, thank you for you patience. I rely on online elmering for most of my ham education as I am new to the hobby. I don't have an electronics background and am, to the astonishment of my friends and family, determined to understand the physics behind the radios I use, hence the reason for the TR switch. I built a K2 last year and it will serve as my receiver as I struggle to understand the transmitter side of the hobby. Receivers will come next … then, who knows, maybe get on a satellite built team … hi hi...

Kevin

KK4LSG

| 230|227|2014-01-04 21:20:32|WA0ITP|Re: Success and now enclosure and wiring questions|

GE, and congrats on building the Magic Box.

> If I read the Magic Box Connector and Mounting Hole Locations document
> correctly, the Z coordinate is taken from the outside bottom of the
> TP-41 enclosure?

Yes, like it's sitting on a table and measuring from the table surface up.

But no need to measure any hole locations Just print out the page and use the
front panel artwork as a drilling template. The other template is for the rear
panel and locates the opening for the power plug to go thru and into the jack on
the board. The tempates are for the Ten Tec TP-41 enclosure only.

> What are the holes for, and what does the Y coordinate 3.80 represent?

Not understanding this one, The holes are for the jacks, BNC and 1/8" stereo,
plus for the 12 volt plug o the back.. Are you looking at this page?
http://www.4sqrp.com/kits/MagicBox/mbholetemp.pdf

Check out the photo page, it will help visualize everything. Also near the
bottom of the page there is a sketch of the Spot/Tune switch wiring.

Hope this helps.
--------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge" <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2014 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Success and now enclosure and wiring questions

| On 1/4/2014 6:10 PM, kcrossett@gmail.com wrote:
| >
| >
| > Success with the magic box â€¦ everything seems to check out OK.
|
| Most excellent! :-)
|
| I
| > have never really spotted or tuned with a separate receive and
| > transmitter, but I'm confident I will figure that part out.
|
| We can help if you aren't able to figure it out.
|
| >
| >
| > Now, I have some question on installing the board in a TP-41 case and
| > I have some wiring questions for the various switchesâ€¦ Lots of
| > questions, sorry...
|
| That's OK.
|
| >
| > Wiring questions:
| > J14:
|
| That's the power on - off switch header.
|
| Do I need to observe polarity when attaching a SPST switch?
|
| No.
|
| I
| > don't believe I do, but wanted to check. Also what does N/O mean in
| > the packaging considerations document?
|
| N/O is short for normally open; N/C would be of course, normally closed.
| >
| > J12:
|
| That's the power "on" indicator LED. The LED has an anode and
| cathode, and the power has to flow from anode to cathode for it to
| light up. The connector pin (upper) adjacent to R47 is the + lead.
| But, you really don't have to worry about it, just wire up the mating
| header to those two J12 pins, and if the LED doesn't light up, reverse
| the mating header to change the polarity.
|
|
| Same question, do I need to observe polarity when installing the
| > LED wiring? If so, which pin is + and which is -?
| >
| > J13: Same question as J12
|
| Same answer almost. The positive pin on the J13 header is the lower
| pin adjacent to R48.
| >
| > J7 and J10: I plan to use a DPDT switch for this one.
|
| You want to be sure to use a center off type of switch here, so it has
| actually three positions, left, center, and right. The left and right
| positions are the active ones giving "Spot" and "Tune".
|
| But â€¦ what
| > kind of cable do I need for J10. I read that the cable has a shield.
| > Is there a name for this type of cable?
|
| Two wire shielded cable. One could also use three wire microphone
| cable, where the third wire is also the shield.
|
| I assume that I attach the
| > shield to one of the pins on the PCB.
|
| Yes, that is correct.
|
| Do I just cut off the other end
| > of the shield?
|
| Yes.
|
| Is there a wiring diagram to make the connections?
|
| On the web site and also I believe in an addendum in the Assembly
| Manual, but maybe not. I'll look into that. I'm not sure we have the
| latest version of the Assembly Manual on the web site.
|
| If
| > not, what is the jumper wire on the DPDT? Is it for the LED?
|
| No, the bottom part of the switch is used to key the transmitter. That
| part of the switch keys the transmitter, so the outside contacts are
| tied together so that the transmitter is keyed in either switch
| direction. In one position, TUNE, the transmitter only is turned on
| and the receiver is muted. In the SPOT position, controlled by the
| upper contacts of the switch, the transmitter is keyed on and the
| receiver audio is fed through to the speaker, so that the transmitted
| signal can be heard and the receiver tuned to the transmitter or vice
| versa.
| >
| >
| > enclosure
| >
| > If I read the Magic Box Connector and Mounting Hole Locations document
| > correctly, the Z coordinate is taken from the outside bottom of the
| > TP-41 enclosure?
|
| I believe that is correct. I did not do that part of the
| documentation, Terry, WA0ITP did, so maybe he will jump in here and
| answer the TP-41 enclosure questions.
|
| Is that correct. I am referring to the second set of
| > coordinates on that page.
|
| I don't know; I've never put any of my MagicBox PCB's in that case.
|
| >
| > What are the holes for,
|
| For mounting the PCB in the case via its connectors on the front of
| the PCB.
|
| and what does the Y coordinate 3.80 represent?
|
| Might be the hole needed in the back of the case where the power
| connector is be located?
|
| I hope I've helped some!
|
| 72,
|
| Jim, K8IQY
|
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo Groups Links
|
|
|

| 231|227|2014-01-05 08:10:17|Kevin Crossett|Re: Success and now enclosure and wiring questions|

Hi Terry and thanks for the note. I should have been more specific. I was referring to the drilling template, not the graphic. On the drilling template sheet, there are two places with the word hole written along with X and Y coordinates. I was just wondering what those two specific holes were for. They are on the same line as the hole for the power connection.

That said, I will use the graphic template as my guide to create the enclosure.

Thanks

Kevin

On Sat, Jan 4, 2014 at 9:20 PM, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

GE, and congrats on building the Magic Box.

> If I read the Magic Box Connector and Mounting Hole Locations document
> correctly, the Z coordinate is taken from the outside bottom of the
> TP-41 enclosure?

Yes, like it's sitting on a table and measuring from the table surface up.

But no need to measure any hole locations Just print out the page and use the
front panel artwork as a drilling template. The other template is for the rear
panel and locates the opening for the power plug to go thru and into the jack on
the board. The tempates are for the Ten Tec TP-41 enclosure only.

> What are the holes for, and what does the Y coordinate 3.80 represent?

Not understanding this one, The holes are for the jacks, BNC and 1/8" stereo,
plus for the 12 volt plug o the back.. Are you looking at this page?
http://www.4sqrp.com/kits/MagicBox/mbholetemp.pdf

Check out the photo page, it will help visualize everything. Also near the
bottom of the page there is a sketch of the Spot/Tune switch wiring.

Hope this helps.
--------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Kortge" <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com>
To: <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2014 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Success and now enclosure and wiring questions

| On 1/4/2014 6:10 PM, kcrossett@gmail.com wrote:
| >
| >
| > Success with the magic box â€¦ everything seems to check out OK.
|
| Most excellent! :-)
|
| I
| > have never really spotted or tuned with a separate receive and
| > transmitter, but I'm confident I will figure that part out.
|
| We can help if you aren't able to figure it out.
|
| >
| >
| > Now, I have some question on installing the board in a TP-41 case and
| > I have some wiring questions for the various switchesâ€¦ Lots of
| > questions, sorry...
|
| That's OK.
|
| >
| > Wiring questions:
| > J14:
|
| That's the power on - off switch header.
|
| Do I need to observe polarity when attaching a SPST switch?
|
| No.
|
| I
| > don't believe I do, but wanted to check. Also what does N/O mean in
| > the packaging considerations document?
|
| N/O is short for normally open; N/C would be of course, normally closed.
| >
| > J12:
|
| That's the power "on" indicator LED. The LED has an anode and
| cathode, and the power has to flow from anode to cathode for it to
| light up. The connector pin (upper) adjacent to R47 is the + lead.
| But, you really don't have to worry about it, just wire up the mating
| header to those two J12 pins, and if the LED doesn't light up, reverse
| the mating header to change the polarity.
|
|
| Same question, do I need to observe polarity when installing the
| > LED wiring? If so, which pin is + and which is -?
| >
| > J13: Same question as J12
|
| Same answer almost. The positive pin on the J13 header is the lower
| pin adjacent to R48.
| >
| > J7 and J10: I plan to use a DPDT switch for this one.
|
| You want to be sure to use a center off type of switch here, so it has
| actually three positions, left, center, and right. The left and right
| positions are the active ones giving "Spot" and "Tune".
|
| But â€¦ what
| > kind of cable do I need for J10. I read that the cable has a shield.
| > Is there a name for this type of cable?
|
| Two wire shielded cable. One could also use three wire microphone
| cable, where the third wire is also the shield.
|
| I assume that I attach the
| > shield to one of the pins on the PCB.
|
| Yes, that is correct.
|
| Do I just cut off the other end
| > of the shield?
|
| Yes.
|
| Is there a wiring diagram to make the connections?
|
| On the web site and also I believe in an addendum in the Assembly
| Manual, but maybe not. I'll look into that. I'm not sure we have the
| latest version of the Assembly Manual on the web site.
|
| If
| > not, what is the jumper wire on the DPDT? Is it for the LED?
|
| No, the bottom part of the switch is used to key the transmitter. That
| part of the switch keys the transmitter, so the outside contacts are
| tied together so that the transmitter is keyed in either switch
| direction. In one position, TUNE, the transmitter only is turned on
| and the receiver is muted. In the SPOT position, controlled by the
| upper contacts of the switch, the transmitter is keyed on and the
| receiver audio is fed through to the speaker, so that the transmitted
| signal can be heard and the receiver tuned to the transmitter or vice
| versa.
| >
| >
| > enclosure
| >
| > If I read the Magic Box Connector and Mounting Hole Locations document
| > correctly, the Z coordinate is taken from the outside bottom of the
| > TP-41 enclosure?
|
| I believe that is correct. I did not do that part of the
| documentation, Terry, WA0ITP did, so maybe he will jump in here and
| answer the TP-41 enclosure questions.
|
| Is that correct. I am referring to the second set of
| > coordinates on that page.
|
| I don't know; I've never put any of my MagicBox PCB's in that case.
|
| >
| > What are the holes for,
|
| For mounting the PCB in the case via its connectors on the front of
| the PCB.
|
| and what does the Y coordinate 3.80 represent?
|
| Might be the hole needed in the back of the case where the power
| connector is be located?
|
| I hope I've helped some!
|
| 72,
|
| Jim, K8IQY
|
|
|
|
| ------------------------------------
|
| Yahoo Groups Links
|
|
|

------------------------------------

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| 232|232|2014-01-05 11:45:11|Jim Kortge|Re: MagicBox maximum power?|

On 1/5/2014 11:25 AM, Karsten Hansky wrote:

> Hello Jim,

Good morning Dear Karsten,

Nice to get email from you.

>
> I built the MagicBox (4 State QRP kit) and it works fine.

Very nice to hear another MB is up and running. I hope you enjoy
yours and thanks for purchasing it from 4 State QRP.

What is the

> maximum transmit power which you tested?

10-watts is what it is rated for. I would not recommend going much
above that level.

I have a German SP-20 spy

> transmitter which I would like to connect. The SP-20 has app. 20watts
> output. Is that to much or can it be handled safely?

That's probably too much power and something will get hot and perhaps
fail. Can you dial the rig's power output back some? I know of one
instance where a MagicBox was inadvertently subjected to 50-watts for
a short time and survived, but many of the transmit parts got really
hot during that event.

>
> SP-20 see: www.qrz.com/db/dl3hrt

Very cool!! :-)

>
> Best regards,

And to you Karsten.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 233|218|2014-01-05 15:29:51|robin.gripp|Re: Inductors|

Thanks for your help, Jim.
following your advice, went back and identified the inductors and capacitors that differed from the colours described in the on-line instructions. Stupidly I just grabbed the green (but correctly marked) inductors and installed them into positions C19, 20 and 21 merely on the basis of colour, without properly identifying them. Culpa mea.

Now I have installed the three brown (tan) capacitors in their correct position, and inserted a 10M resistor at R46, I felt more confident to continue with with the kit, and, after rechecking the first voltage checks, carried out the first sidetone check - good tone at J6, and R32 gives a nil to strong volume. So far, so good.

Installed Q11, Q12 and Q13, then proceeded to the next test. Grounded R21, jumped 20 to 16 (took my time to identify), headphone jack into J5 and powered up - good strong sidetone. Fine I thought.

BUT - I removed the jumper with the power still on (perhaps I shouldn't, curiosity killed the cat), and the sound continued. Power off, power straight back on, sound returned without jumper. Power off for longer time, sound will build up after a few seconds, although jumping 20/16 speeds things up. Checked "tiny" socket orientation and soldering of feet, identity of Q11, 12 and thirteen. All seems OK. Without grounding R21: careful listening, there is a faint but definite tone at J5 - much fainter than side tone at J6.

Not even sure whether I have a problem, as the actual test described gave a satisfactory result, but does the continuation of a tone after removal of the jumper imply a problem with the muting circuit?

Apologies for the long-winded posting, but I feel I should give as much information as possible, considering the obvious difficulties in giving advice over thousands of miles.

Appreciative of the support,

Robin.

| 234|227|2014-01-05 15:31:04|Jim Kortge|Re: Success and now enclosure and wiring questions|

On 1/4/2014 9:14 PM, kcrossett@gmail.com wrote:

>
>
> Thanks Jim.

You are welcome.

I am sourcing some toggle switches now and some two-wire

> shielded cable for the connections. Other than the N/O designation, do
> I need to ensure I have a certain voltage rate switch, or will any do?

Essentially, anything will work. At most your are switching less than
12 volts and very low current.

>
>
> I should have been more clear on the enclosure question. I was
> referring to the holes that refer to the Y coordinate. I think they
> may be for mounting the standoffs on the back of the board.

Oh yes. The bottom of the case will need to have holes for the back
of the PCB to attach to the case bottom.

Maybe

> Terry has some insight.

Perhaps!

>
>
> Now, on to the remaining questions for nowâ€¦
>
>
> What pins on J10 do I connect the shielded audio cables to, and which
> one do I connect to the shield?

The rightmost pin (Pin 3) of J10 adjacent to Q17 is the ground. That
puts pin 1 on the opposite end of the header and pin 2 in the middle.

>
>
> Maybe a better question would be (and this applies to all of the pins
> on the PCB) â€¦ How do I determine which pin is positive, negative
> and, in the case of J10, the shield? I would rather learn how to
> determine these kinds of things as opposed to just asking the experts

You would need to learn how to read a schematic diagram and find the
parts, pads, and traces on the printed circuit board. That how I am
doing it to answer your questions. I don't have all of that
information memorized; even if I did at one time, it has been over 4
years since I designed the MagicBox, and all of that information has
been replaced in my brain by other things! :-)
.

>
>
> Also, is it possible to replace R32 with a pot so I can adjust the
> sidetone volume via a front panel adjustment?

R32 is already a pot mounted on the PCB and screwdriver adjustable.
Once you have the sidetone set to the level that you like, you
probably won't adjust it again.

If so, what pins connect

> to the various pot connections? If I recall from my previous
> experiments, the wiper is the center pin on the pot and the right and
> left control the resistance. Can I just reference the location on the
> PCB to make those connections? In other words, can I attach the left
> rear of R32 to the left pot and the right rear to the right side of
> R32 to the right pot connector, then connect the center pot pin to the
> top hole on the PCB? If this is not correct, then I would appreciate a
> lesson on determining the right connections.

I would leave all of that aside for the moment. I don't want you to
do something that will compromise the operation of the MagicBox that I
can't figure out over the internet via email. I hope that makes sense
and you aren't offended. The MagicBox was designed with a great deal
of thought and works extremely well as designed and supplied as a kit.

>
>
> Jim, thank you for you patience. I rely on online elmering for most of
> my ham education as I am new to the hobby. I don't have an electronics
> background and am, to the astonishment of my friends and family,
> determined to understand the physics behind the radios I use, hence
> the reason for the TR switch. I built a K2 last year and it will serve
> as my receiver as I struggle to understand the transmitter side of the
> hobby. Receivers will come next â€¦ then, who knows, maybe get on a
> satellite built team â€¦ hi hi...

It all takes time to learn what's behind all of the doors. I learn
new stuff every day, and I have a background in EE and Applied
Physics, but sure do still have a lot to learn about radio.

Keep that positive attitude and keep having fun! :-)

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 235|218|2014-01-05 15:47:50|WA0ITP|Re: Inductors|

GA Robin,

I noticed that you "inserted a 10M resistor at R46"

That should be a 100 ohm resistor as noted on the kits home page. Give a shout if you dont have one left over and I'll drop one in the mail to you.

I just read Jim's response, good advice and it looks like you're coming along ok. Don't be to quick to jumper things to hear the results, or to jump to a conclusion. All is well with the kit as designed, and there have been hundreds built with no problems.

Just make sure the right parts are in the right holes, that they are oriented correctly, and it will work fine..

Hang in there.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: robin.gripp@yahoo.com

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2014 2:29 PM

Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Inductors

Thanks for your help, Jim.
following your advice, went back and identified the inductors and capacitors that differed from the colours described in the on-line instructions. Stupidly I just grabbed the green (but correctly marked) inductors and installed them into positions C19, 20 and 21 merely on the basis of colour, without properly identifying them. Culpa mea.

Now I have installed the three brown (tan) capacitors in their correct position, and inserted a 10M resistor at R46, I felt more confident to continue with with the kit, and, after rechecking the first voltage checks, carried out the first sidetone check - good tone at J6, and R32 gives a nil to strong volume. So far, so good.

Installed Q11, Q12 and Q13, then proceeded to the next test. Grounded R21, jumped 20 to 16 (took my time to identify), headphone jack into J5 and powered up - good strong sidetone. Fine I thought.

BUT - I removed the jumper with the power still on (perhaps I shouldn't, curiosity killed the cat), and the sound continued. Power off, power straight back on, sound returned without jumper. Power off for longer time, sound will build up after a few seconds, although jumping 20/16 speeds things up. Checked "tiny" socket orientation and soldering of feet, identity of Q11, 12 and thirteen. All seems OK. Without grounding R21: careful listening, there is a faint but definite tone at J5 - much fainter than side tone at J6.

Not even sure whether I have a problem, as the actual test described gave a satisfactory result, but does the continuation of a tone after removal of the jumper imply a problem with the muting circuit?

Apologies for the long-winded posting, but I feel I should give as much information as possible, considering the obvious difficulties in giving advice over thousands of miles.

Appreciative of the support,

Robin.

| 236|227|2014-01-06 09:10:18|Kevin Crossett|Re: Success and now enclosure and wiring questions|

Thanks Jim. I am now working on the case using the design template provided on the website. I will set and forget the sidetown per your recommendation. Appreciate all of your assistance.

On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 3:31 PM, Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com> wrote:

On 1/4/2014 9:14 PM, kcrossett@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks Jim.

You are welcome.

I am sourcing some toggle switches now and some two-wire

shielded cable for the connections. Other than the N/O designation, do
I need to ensure I have a certain voltage rate switch, or will any do?

Essentially, anything will work. At most your are switching less than 12 volts and very low current.

I should have been more clear on the enclosure question. I was
referring to the holes that refer to the Y coordinate. I think they
may be for mounting the standoffs on the back of the board.

Oh yes. The bottom of the case will need to have holes for the back of the PCB to attach to the case bottom.

Maybe

Terry has some insight.

Perhaps!

Now, on to the remaining questions for nowâ€¦

What pins on J10 do I connect the shielded audio cables to, and which
one do I connect to the shield?

The rightmost pin (Pin 3) of J10 adjacent to Q17 is the ground. That puts pin 1 on the opposite end of the header and pin 2 in the middle.

Maybe a better question would be (and this applies to all of the pins
on the PCB) â€¦ How do I determine which pin is positive, negative
and, in the case of J10, the shield? I would rather learn how to
determine these kinds of things as opposed to just asking the experts

You would need to learn how to read a schematic diagram and find the parts, pads, and traces on the printed circuit board. That how I am doing it to answer your questions. I don't have all of that information memorized; even if I did at one time, it has been over 4 years since I designed the MagicBox, and all of that information has been replaced in my brain by other things! :-)
.

Also, is it possible to replace R32 with a pot so I can adjust the
sidetone volume via a front panel adjustment?

R32 is already a pot mounted on the PCB and screwdriver adjustable. Once you have the sidetone set to the level that you like, you probably won't adjust it again.

If so, what pins connect

to the various pot connections? If I recall from my previous
experiments, the wiper is the center pin on the pot and the right and
left control the resistance. Can I just reference the location on the
PCB to make those connections? In other words, can I attach the left
rear of R32 to the left pot and the right rear to the right side of
R32 to the right pot connector, then connect the center pot pin to the
top hole on the PCB? If this is not correct, then I would appreciate a
lesson on determining the right connections.

I would leave all of that aside for the moment. I don't want you to do something that will compromise the operation of the MagicBox that I can't figure out over the internet via email. I hope that makes sense and you aren't offended. The MagicBox was designed with a great deal of thought and works extremely well as designed and supplied as a kit.

Jim, thank you for you patience. I rely on online elmering for most of
my ham education as I am new to the hobby. I don't have an electronics
background and am, to the astonishment of my friends and family,
determined to understand the physics behind the radios I use, hence
the reason for the TR switch. I built a K2 last year and it will serve
as my receiver as I struggle to understand the transmitter side of the
hobby. Receivers will come next â€¦ then, who knows, maybe get on a
satellite built team â€¦ hi hi...

It all takes time to learn what's behind all of the doors. I learn new stuff every day, and I have a background in EE and Applied Physics, but sure do still have a lot to learn about radio.

Keep that positive attitude and keep having fun! :-)

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 237|227|2014-01-06 10:08:23|Rich Fowler|Re: Success and now enclosure and wiring questions|

Kevin,
From experience....measure a dozen times, make a "dry" run using scrap PCB or whatever, drill once!
I have been following your Magic Box build! You've done well.

Keep us informed and good luck.
72,
Rich K8MEG

From: Kevin Crossett
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 6, 2014 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Success and now enclosure and wiring questions

Thanks Jim. I am now working on the case using the design template provided on the website. I will set and forget the sidetown per your recommendation. Appreciate all of your assistance.

On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 3:31 PM, Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com> wrote:

On 1/4/2014 9:14 PM, kcrossett@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks Jim.

You are welcome.

I am sourcing some toggle switches now and some two-wire

shielded cable for the connections. Other than the N/O designation, do
I need to ensure I have a certain voltage rate switch, or will any do?

Essentially, anything will work. At most your are switching less than 12 volts and very low current.

I should have been more clear on the enclosure question. I was
referring to the holes that refer to the Y coordinate. I think they
may be for mounting the standoffs on the back of the board.

Oh yes. The bottom of the case will need to have holes for the back of the PCB to attach to the case bottom.

Maybe

Terry has some insight.

Perhaps!

Now, on to the remaining questions for nowâ€¦

What pins on J10 do I connect the shielded audio cables to, and which
one do I connect to the shield?

The rightmost pin (Pin 3) of J10 adjacent to Q17 is the ground. That puts pin 1 on the opposite end of the header and pin 2 in the middle.

Maybe a better question would be (and this applies to all of the pins
on the PCB) â€¦ How do I determine which pin is positive, negative
and, in the case of J10, the shield? I would rather learn how to
determine these kinds of things as opposed to just asking the experts

You would need to learn how to read a schematic diagram and find the parts, pads, and traces on the printed circuit board. That how I am doing it to answer your questions. I don't have all of that information memorized; even if I did at one time, it has been over 4 years since I designed the MagicBox, and all of that information has been replaced in my brain by other things! :-)
.

Also, is it possible to replace R32 with a pot so I can adjust the
sidetone volume via a front panel adjustment?

R32 is already a pot mounted on the PCB and screwdriver adjustable. Once you have the sidetone set to the level that you like, you probably won't adjust it again.

If so, what pins connect

to the various pot connections? If I recall from my previous
experiments, the wiper is the center pin on the pot and the right and
left control the resistance. Can I just reference the location on the
PCB to make those connections? In other words, can I attach the left
rear of R32 to the left pot and the right rear to the right side of
R32 to the right pot connector, then connect the center pot pin to the
top hole on the PCB? If this is not correct, then I would appreciate a
lesson on determining the right connections.

I would leave all of that aside for the moment. I don't want you to do something that will compromise the operation of the MagicBox that I can't figure out over the internet via email. I hope that makes sense and you aren't offended. The MagicBox was designed with a great deal of thought and works extremely well as designed and supplied as a kit.

Jim, thank you for you patience. I rely on online elmering for most of
my ham education as I am new to the hobby. I don't have an electronics
background and am, to the astonishment of my friends and family,
determined to understand the physics behind the radios I use, hence
the reason for the TR switch. I built a K2 last year and it will serve
as my receiver as I struggle to understand the transmitter side of the
hobby. Receivers will come next â€¦ then, who knows, maybe get on a
satellite built team â€¦ hi hi...

It all takes time to learn what's behind all of the doors. I learn new stuff every day, and I have a background in EE and Applied Physics, but sure do still have a lot to learn about radio.

Keep that positive attitude and keep having fun! :-)

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 238|227|2014-01-06 10:53:17|Lee Hiers|Re: Success and now enclosure and wiring questions|

On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 10:08 AM, Rich Fowler <k8meg@yahoo.com> wrote:

From experience....measure a dozen times, make a "dry" run using scrap PCB or whatever, drill once!

I agree with this! Do as Rich says, not as I did! ;-)

I had to redrill the 1/8" jacks due to not paying enough attention, then decided it would be better to just use panel-mount BNCs because I hadn't adequately marked my box - I thought I had, but was wrong...that's where using a piece of scrap would have helped. Mine turned out fine, but I did pull out a hair or two in the completion phase!

See: http://www.aa4ga.com/2013/02/magicbox.html

Enjoy the MB!

73 de Lee
--
Lee Hiers, AA4GA
www.aa4ga.com

Submit your QRP DXCC totals to www.qrpdx.com!

| 239|227|2014-01-06 11:40:48|Kevin Crossett|Re: Success and now enclosure and wiring questions|

Thanks for the advice. All of my measurements were spot on and I was able to fit the PCB into the enclosure with no problem, except, that I punched the holes too close to the right side of the enclosure. I have made the necessary measurements and plan to offset the holes 3/32" to accommodate the board and ensure it is centered in the middle of the enclosure when I try again with another TP-41 enclosure this week.

On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 10:08 AM, Rich Fowler <k8meg@yahoo.com> wrote:

Kevin,
From experience....measure a dozen times, make a "dry" run using scrap PCB or whatever, drill once!
I have been following your Magic Box build! You've done well.

Keep us informed and good luck.
72,
Rich K8MEG

From: Kevin Crossett <kcrossett@gmail.com>
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 6, 2014 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Success and now enclosure and wiring questions

Thanks Jim. I am now working on the case using the design template provided on the website. I will set and forget the sidetown per your recommendation. Appreciate all of your assistance.

On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 3:31 PM, Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com> wrote:

On 1/4/2014 9:14 PM, kcrossett@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks Jim.

You are welcome.

I am sourcing some toggle switches now and some two-wire

shielded cable for the connections. Other than the N/O designation, do
I need to ensure I have a certain voltage rate switch, or will any do?

Essentially, anything will work. At most your are switching less than 12 volts and very low current.

I should have been more clear on the enclosure question. I was
referring to the holes that refer to the Y coordinate. I think they
may be for mounting the standoffs on the back of the board.

Oh yes. The bottom of the case will need to have holes for the back of the PCB to attach to the case bottom.

Maybe

Terry has some insight.

Perhaps!

Now, on to the remaining questions for nowâ€¦

What pins on J10 do I connect the shielded audio cables to, and which
one do I connect to the shield?

The rightmost pin (Pin 3) of J10 adjacent to Q17 is the ground. That puts pin 1 on the opposite end of the header and pin 2 in the middle.

Maybe a better question would be (and this applies to all of the pins
on the PCB) â€¦ How do I determine which pin is positive, negative
and, in the case of J10, the shield? I would rather learn how to
determine these kinds of things as opposed to just asking the experts

You would need to learn how to read a schematic diagram and find the parts, pads, and traces on the printed circuit board. That how I am doing it to answer your questions. I don't have all of that information memorized; even if I did at one time, it has been over 4 years since I designed the MagicBox, and all of that information has been replaced in my brain by other things! :-)
.

Also, is it possible to replace R32 with a pot so I can adjust the
sidetone volume via a front panel adjustment?

R32 is already a pot mounted on the PCB and screwdriver adjustable. Once you have the sidetone set to the level that you like, you probably won't adjust it again.

If so, what pins connect

to the various pot connections? If I recall from my previous
experiments, the wiper is the center pin on the pot and the right and
left control the resistance. Can I just reference the location on the
PCB to make those connections? In other words, can I attach the left
rear of R32 to the left pot and the right rear to the right side of
R32 to the right pot connector, then connect the center pot pin to the
top hole on the PCB? If this is not correct, then I would appreciate a
lesson on determining the right connections.

I would leave all of that aside for the moment. I don't want you to do something that will compromise the operation of the MagicBox that I can't figure out over the internet via email. I hope that makes sense and you aren't offended. The MagicBox was designed with a great deal of thought and works extremely well as designed and supplied as a kit.

Jim, thank you for you patience. I rely on online elmering for most of
my ham education as I am new to the hobby. I don't have an electronics
background and am, to the astonishment of my friends and family,
determined to understand the physics behind the radios I use, hence
the reason for the TR switch. I built a K2 last year and it will serve
as my receiver as I struggle to understand the transmitter side of the
hobby. Receivers will come next â€¦ then, who knows, maybe get on a
satellite built team â€¦ hi hi...

It all takes time to learn what's behind all of the doors. I learn new stuff every day, and I have a background in EE and Applied Physics, but sure do still have a lot to learn about radio.

Keep that positive attitude and keep having fun! :-)

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 240|227|2014-01-06 11:47:04|Kevin Crossett|Re: Success and now enclosure and wiring questions|

Yeah. I measured several times. I use a sharp toop to mark the exact center of the hole, then use a hand punch for the 1/4 holes and a 1/2" knock out punch for the larger diameter holes. Works FB. Now that I have worked out my offset for my particular setup, I expect to breeze right through the final enclosure assembly. Then I have to build my transmitter and test it out. I have a Rockmite that I am using with a kit-built K2 for now, but I have on order a Sudden Transmitter from GQRP that should introduce me to yet another construction technique.

Cheers and Happy New Year

Kevin

KK4LSG

On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 10:52 AM, Lee Hiers <lee.hiers@gmail.com> wrote:

On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 10:08 AM, Rich Fowler <k8meg@yahoo.com> wrote:

From experience....measure a dozen times, make a "dry" run using scrap PCB or whatever, drill once!

I agree with this! Do as Rich says, not as I did! ;-)

I had to redrill the 1/8" jacks due to not paying enough attention, then decided it would be better to just use panel-mount BNCs because I hadn't adequately marked my box - I thought I had, but was wrong...that's where using a piece of scrap would have helped. Mine turned out fine, but I did pull out a hair or two in the completion phase!

See: http://www.aa4ga.com/2013/02/magicbox.html

Enjoy the MB!

73 de Lee

--
Lee Hiers, AA4GA

www.aa4ga.com

Submit your QRP DXCC totals to www.qrpdx.com!

| 241|227|2014-01-06 11:51:01|Rich Fowler|Re: Success and now enclosure and wiring questions|

Several have had that exact experience! Myself included!

From: Kevin Crossett
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 6, 2014 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Success and now enclosure and wiring questions

On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 10:08 AM, Rich Fowler <k8meg@yahoo.com> wrote:

Kevin,
From experience....measure a dozen times, make a "dry" run using scrap PCB or whatever, drill once!
I have been following your Magic Box build! You've done well.

Keep us informed and good luck.
72,
Rich K8MEG

From: Kevin Crossett <kcrossett@gmail.com>
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 6, 2014 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Success and now enclosure and wiring questions

Thanks Jim. I am now working on the case using the design template provided on the website. I will set and forget the sidetown per your recommendation. Appreciate all of your assistance.

On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 3:31 PM, Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com> wrote:

On 1/4/2014 9:14 PM, kcrossett@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks Jim.

You are welcome.

I am sourcing some toggle switches now and some two-wire

shielded cable for the connections. Other than the N/O designation, do
I need to ensure I have a certain voltage rate switch, or will any do?

Essentially, anything will work. At most your are switching less than 12 volts and very low current.

I should have been more clear on the enclosure question. I was
referring to the holes that refer to the Y coordinate. I think they
may be for mounting the standoffs on the back of the board.

Oh yes. The bottom of the case will need to have holes for the back of the PCB to attach to the case bottom.

Maybe

Terry has some insight.

Perhaps!

Now, on to the remaining questions for nowâ€¦

What pins on J10 do I connect the shielded audio cables to, and which
one do I connect to the shield?

The rightmost pin (Pin 3) of J10 adjacent to Q17 is the ground. That puts pin 1 on the opposite end of the header and pin 2 in the middle.

Maybe a better question would be (and this applies to all of the pins
on the PCB) â€¦ How do I determine which pin is positive, negative
and, in the case of J10, the shield? I would rather learn how to
determine these kinds of things as opposed to just asking the experts

You would need to learn how to read a schematic diagram and find the parts, pads, and traces on the printed circuit board. That how I am doing it to answer your questions. I don't have all of that information memorized; even if I did at one time, it has been over 4 years since I designed the MagicBox, and all of that information has been replaced in my brain by other things! :-)
.

Also, is it possible to replace R32 with a pot so I can adjust the
sidetone volume via a front panel adjustment?

R32 is already a pot mounted on the PCB and screwdriver adjustable. Once you have the sidetone set to the level that you like, you probably won't adjust it again.

If so, what pins connect

to the various pot connections? If I recall from my previous
experiments, the wiper is the center pin on the pot and the right and
left control the resistance. Can I just reference the location on the
PCB to make those connections? In other words, can I attach the left
rear of R32 to the left pot and the right rear to the right side of
R32 to the right pot connector, then connect the center pot pin to the
top hole on the PCB? If this is not correct, then I would appreciate a
lesson on determining the right connections.

I would leave all of that aside for the moment. I don't want you to do something that will compromise the operation of the MagicBox that I can't figure out over the internet via email. I hope that makes sense and you aren't offended. The MagicBox was designed with a great deal of thought and works extremely well as designed and supplied as a kit.

Jim, thank you for you patience. I rely on online elmering for most of
my ham education as I am new to the hobby. I don't have an electronics
background and am, to the astonishment of my friends and family,
determined to understand the physics behind the radios I use, hence
the reason for the TR switch. I built a K2 last year and it will serve
as my receiver as I struggle to understand the transmitter side of the
hobby. Receivers will come next â€¦ then, who knows, maybe get on a
satellite built team â€¦ hi hi...

It all takes time to learn what's behind all of the doors. I learn new stuff every day, and I have a background in EE and Applied Physics, but sure do still have a lot to learn about radio.

Keep that positive attitude and keep having fun! :-)

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 242|227|2014-01-06 15:43:25|Shawn Reed|Re: Success and now enclosure and wiring questions|

On 1/6/2014 8:47 AM, Kevin Crossett wrote:

Yeah. I measured several times. I use a sharp toop to mark the exact center of the hole, then use a hand punch for the 1/4 holes and a 1/2" knock out punch for the larger diameter holes. Works FB. Now that I have worked out my offset for my particular setup, I expect to breeze right through the final enclosure assembly. Then I have to build my transmitter and test it out. I have a Rockmite that I am using with a kit-built K2 for now, but I have on order a Sudden Transmitter from GQRP that should introduce me to yet another construction technique.

Cheers and Happy New Year

Kevin

KK4LSG

On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 10:52 AM, Lee Hiers <lee.hiers@gmail.com> wrote:

On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 10:08 AM, Rich Fowler <k8meg@yahoo.com> wrote:

From experience....measure a dozen times, make a "dry" run using scrap PCB or whatever, drill once!

I agree with this! Do as Rich says, not as I did! ;-)

I had to redrill the 1/8" jacks due to not paying enough attention, then decided it would be better to just use panel-mount BNCs because I hadn't adequately marked my box - I thought I had, but was wrong...that's where using a piece of scrap would have helped. Mine turned out fine, but I did pull out a hair or two in the completion phase!

See: http://www.aa4ga.com/2013/02/magicbox.html

Enjoy the MB!

73 de Lee

--
Lee Hiers, AA4GA

www.aa4ga.com

Submit your QRP DXCC totals to www.qrpdx.com!

Hello MB builders. I thought I should mention what I came across with my enclosure. The board starts out having a straight edge. After the soldering is complete, you will notice a slight curvature to the board. This is what misplaces the holes, or adds to any misalignment of holes. Sometimes, a slightly over-sized hole will compensate. There still is the flex in the board, also, for minor persuasion. I tend to drill the holes undersized, match them up to the current situation, on board, and work the hole with a small chainsaw file, (round) in the direction needed. Allow yourself room for minor corrections. Sometimes the larger drill will "catch" the soft aluminum, making the hole even larger, after repair. 73, Shawnr kf7yff

| 243|243|2014-01-07 11:58:01|Jim Kortge|Re: Magic Box kit|

On 1/6/2014 7:18 PM, Paul Smith wrote:

> Roger, the designer of the magic box monitors the yahoo page and knows all the answers... I will send this on to him.
> Thanks
>
> de Paul Smith N0NBD
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Jan 6, 2014, at 1:28 PM, Roger Hill <rhill@hillconsult.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Paul:
>>
>> I suspect you are not the right person to ask, so please point me in the right direction.
>>
>> I've just finished building my Magic Box kit - ordered mid December, and with the Christmas post, arrived on Friday.
>>
>> All the tests were ok, and I'm sure that it worked 'live' after I hooked it all up and tested it.
>>
>> Now that I've tidied up all my hookups, I have a problem.
>>
>> Receive is fine.
>>
>> Transmit key down is fine, and the receiver mutes, sidetone is good, and the transmitter keys ok.
>>
>> But the RF is not being switched to the antenna. i.e on transmit, J4 is not being switched to J3.
>>
>> I verified this by disconnecting the transmitter, putting the receiver on to J4, and keying the magic box. The receiver did not get any signal, again confirming that J4 was not being switched to J3 on transmit.
>>
>> I've checked that the transformers T1 and T2 are not open on any leg. I've checked all the diodes ok.
>>
>> it seems to me that the fault must be in the hi level rf switch...but I'd appreciate some tips on diagnosis, rather than blindly swapping out transistors.
>>
>> many thanks
>> 73
>> Roger Hill
>> G3YTN
>>

GM Roger,

Sorry to hear you are having issues with your MagicBox.

Here is an array of key information that may help in diagnosing what
is going on.

First off, Diode D3, the 1N4007 is the key element for switching the
transmit RF from J4 port out to the J3 port. When the MagicBox is
switched to "transmit", a DC bias of 10 volts is applied to R12, the
big 180 Ohm resistor that feeds D3 via the L3 inductor to cause a
current of about 55 ma to flow through D3. The bias source is the
Q9/Q10 combo controlled by PB3 coming from the ATTiny2313. The return
path for the bias current is via Q7, which is also turned on via the
PB3 line. During transmit, PB2 is at a very low voltage value, so
that all of the receive circuitry is isolated from the high level
transmit signal.

Using the above brief description, here is what is important:
PB2 is at +5 volts during Receive.
PB3 is at +5 volts during Transmit; they will never both be at +5
volts at the same time, that is controlled in the ATTiny2313 and the
firmware running in that chip.

During receive, the follow conditions exist:
Q4 is on during receive
Q5 is on during receive
Q7 is off during receive
Q8 is on during receive
Q9 is off during receive
Q10 is off during receive

During transmit, all of the above transistors change their state, the
off transistors are turned on, and the on transistors are turned off.
All of them are under the control of PB2 and PB3.

From the above information, I'm hopeful you can track down what is
not working correctly in your MagicBox. Some voltage measurements
during transmit and receive should allow you to find what isn't
working as described.

72 and keep us posted on what you find out,

Jim, K8IQY

P.S., I'd would be interested in knowing what transmitter and receiver
you are using with your MagicBox.

| 244|218|2014-01-07 12:17:02|Jim Kortge|Re: Inductors|

On 1/5/2014 3:29 PM, robin.gripp@yahoo.com wrote:

>
>
>
> Thanks for your help, Jim.

You are welcome Robin.

Lately, I'm getting a whole lot of help requests, and they are
starting to back up, so you'll have to wait sometimes for me to get to
the next one.

> following your advice, went back and identified the inductors and
> capacitors that differed from the colours described in the on-line
> instructions. Stupidly I just grabbed the green (but correctly marked)
> inductors and installed them into positions C19, 20 and 21 merely on
> the basis of colour, without properly identifying them. Culpa mea.

Being careful with parts ID will save time in the long run.

>
> Now I have installed the three brown (tan) capacitors in their correct
> position, and inserted a 10M resistor at R46,

That should be a 100 Ohm resistor at that location. I've been
updating some of the documentation so that the 10 Meg value goes away.

I felt more confident to

> continue with with the kit, and, after rechecking the first voltage
> checks, carried out the first sidetone check - good tone at J6, and
> R32 gives a nil to strong volume. So far, so good.

OK, that is as it should be.

>
> Installed Q11, Q12 and Q13, then proceeded to the next test. Grounded
> R21, jumped 20 to 16 (took my time to identify), headphone jack into
> J5 and powered up - good strong sidetone. Fine I thought.
>
> BUT - I removed the jumper with the power still on (perhaps I
> shouldn't, curiosity killed the cat), and the sound continued.

Well, first off, never change a jumper with power on; too much of a
chance to inadvertently cause an unwanted short circuit and blow
something up.

Power

> off, power straight back on, sound returned without jumper.

Not to worry, the Q13 and Q12 series switches were still on due to the
gate capacitances still being charged up.

Power off

> for longer time, sound will build up after a few seconds, although
> jumping 20/16 speeds things up. Checked "tiny" socket orientation and
> soldering of feet, identity of Q11, 12 and thirteen.

Still gate capacitances being charged. Not an issue.

All seems OK.

> Without grounding R21: careful listening, there is a faint but
> definite tone at J5 - much fainter than side tone at J6.

Q11 probably got turned on since the gate wasn't grounded and is
trying to shunt the audio to ground. The signal you were hearing is
being developed across the Q11 transistor when it is turned on.

>
> Not even sure whether I have a problem, as the actual test described
> gave a satisfactory result, but does the continuation of a tone after
> removal of the jumper imply a problem with the muting circuit?

No, everything is fine.

>
> Apologies for the long-winded posting, but I feel I should give as
> much information as possible, considering the obvious difficulties in
> giving advice over thousands of miles.

Yes, that can be an issue trying to understand what is happening in a
few sentences.

>
> Appreciative of the support,

That's part of the job in being the designer. :-)

72 and carry on,

Jim, K8IQY

>
> Robin.

| 246|218|2014-01-07 17:39:52|robin.gripp|Re: Inductors|

Jim et al.,
I would like to report the assembly (thanks for the guidance) of another fully functioning MB, fully tested using a Sudden Receiver and both an Oxo (oscillator always on - initially easier to tune) and a Sudden type transmitter (oscillator on at keying), all a combination of Manhattan and very ugly construction.

Observations for other potential kit builders :
The kit gave immediate confidence; well-made board and robust connectors, components well separated.
DX (UK) purchase was problem free.
I found the support, advice and encouragement from Four State via Yahoo Group to be excellent.
Print off the detailed instructions and tick off each step.
Take your time to identify components by markings, NOT by colour. If in doubt, seek advice from the guys at 4 State.
Photos in instructions are of an earlier version; subtle differences upper RHS board exist - go by the text.
Watch out for R46 (100 ohm) - note on the web page, but can be missed.
Worse part of the build - making up the various leads with necessary connectors when you just want to get on and do the final checks!

Not only do I now have a useful item of equipment for my hobby, but the build experience has been both satisfying and confidence building.

Robin.

| 247|218|2014-01-07 17:49:04|Jim Kortge|Re: Inductors|

On 1/7/2014 5:33 PM, robin.gripp@yahoo.com wrote:

>
>
> Jim et al.,
> I would like to report the assembly (thanks for the guidance) of
> another fully functioning MB, fully tested using a Sudden Receiver and
> both an Oxo (oscillator always on - initially easier to tune) and a
> Sudden type transmitter (oscillator on at keying), all a combination
> of Manhattan and ugly construction.

Yeah!! :-)

>
> Observations for other potential kit builders :
> The kit gave immediate confidence; well-made board and robust
> connectors, components well separated.
> DX (UK) purchase was problem free.
> I found the support, advice and encouragement from Four State via
> Yahoo Group to be excellent.
> Print off the detailed instructions and tick off each step.
> Take your time to identify components by markings, NOT by colour. If
> in doubt, seek advice from the guys at 4 State.
> Photos in instructions are of an earlier version; subtle differences
> upper LHS board exist - go by the text.

I need to build another one some time and take a fresh set of photos.
Doing that takes quite a bit of time, which I always seem not to have.

> Watch out for R46 (100 ohm) - note on the web page, but can be missed.
> Worse part of the build - making up the various leads with necessary
> connectors when you just want to get on and do the final checks!
>
> Not only do I now have a useful item of equipment for my hobby, but
> the build experience has been both satisfying and confidence building.

Nice to hear!

>
> Robin.
>

72 and thanks for the updated report Robin,

Jim, K8IQY

| 248|218|2014-01-07 18:50:24|WA0ITP|Re: Inductors|

Thank you for the nice comments Robin, and congratulations on a successful build. Enjoy the Magic Box.
----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: robin.gripp@yahoo.com

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2014 4:33 PM

Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Inductors

Jim et al.,
I would like to report the assembly (thanks for the guidance) of another fully functioning MB, fully tested using a Sudden Receiver and both an Oxo (oscillator always on - initially easier to tune) and a Sudden type transmitter (oscillator on at keying), all a combination of Manhattan and ugly construction.

Observations for other potential kit builders :
The kit gave immediate confidence; well-made board and robust connectors, components well separated.
DX (UK) purchase was problem free.
I found the support, advice and encouragement from Four State via Yahoo Group to be excellent.
Print off the detailed instructions and tick off each step.
Take your time to identify components by markings, NOT by colour. If in doubt, seek advice from the guys at 4 State.
Photos in instructions are of an earlier version; subtle differences upper LHS board exist - go by the text.
Watch out for R46 (100 ohm) - note on the web page, but can be missed.
Worse part of the build - making up the various leads with necessary connectors when you just want to get on and do the final checks!

Not only do I now have a useful item of equipment for my hobby, but the build experience has been both satisfying and confidence building.

Robin.

| 249|249|2014-01-12 15:20:11|kevincrossett|another magic box up and running|

I just wanted to take a moment to thank everyone on this list for the insights as I built my magic box. No trouble, except for a missed solder connection on the transmitter BNC connector. All that has been sorted and now the whole thing resides in a TP-41 case. One note for potential case builders. The hole locations on the template are spot on, but to center the PCB board in the TP-41 case, I had to offset the entire template by 3/32" to the left when measured from the right edge of the case bottom. The mounting holes for the PCB standoffs and the power jack holes were measured and drilled/punched after the board was test fitted. I used calipers to make those measurements.

I tested the switch using a Rockmite 40 as the transmitter and my K2 as the receiver. A few CQs that went unanswered did register on the RBN network, so my signal is getting out.

Now on to some simple transmitters to really test this thing out.

Cheers

Kevin

KK4LSG

| 250|250|2014-01-13 10:38:21|ct1bww|Insert Electronic Iambic Keyer|

I've already finish my K8IQY Magic Box.

Now I'm testing.

I'm intend to to include on Enclosure Box a Electronic Iambic Keyer witha switch . This is in case there is any transmniter with electronic Keyer. (I've one)

Anyone as idea if it's a correct procedure.

Than king in advamce for possible coment

72s Marq ct1bww

| 251|250|2014-01-13 11:44:48|Mangin Ben|Re: Insert Electronic Iambic Keyer|

Marc,

I personally do not see any objection to your future setup... Why must there be one ?

Good luck with your project

de F8GRY

Le Lundi 13 janvier 2014 16h38, "ct1bww@clix.pt" a écrit :

I've already finish my K8IQY Magic Box.

Now I'm testing.

I'm intend to to include on Enclosure Box a Electronic Iambic Keyer witha switch . This is in case there is any transmniter with electronic Keyer. (I've one)

Anyone as idea if it's a correct procedure.

Than king in advamce for possible coment

72s Marq ct1bww

| 252|252|2014-01-24 18:08:20|richard.lawn@ymail.com|Spotting in RCVR|

Great little kit which I recently finished and am using to integrate the NS40 and a South Jersey Radio CLub rcvr. Trouble is I though spot meant that you could still hear yourself in the rcvr. Since I have no frequency readout from either unit I can't find my transmit freq in the rcvr. I thought that's what the spot feature allowed you to do with the Magic Box. Any suggestions or is there something in my kit that isn't working right?
Rick
W2JAZ

| 253|252|2014-01-24 18:19:06|WA0ITP|Re: Spotting in RCVR|

GE Rick,

Coupla thoughts,

Make sure you have 100 ohms at R46, adjust the value for good volume if needed

Locate the NS-40 signal in your big rig or on a freq counter to make sure its running.

Does your receiver actually cover the NS-40 freq?

Is the spotting switch wired correctly? See bottom of the MB photopage.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

--------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: rjlawn@gmail.com

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 5:08 PM

Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Great little kit which I recently finished and am using to integrate the NS40 and a South Jersey Radio CLub rcvr. Trouble is I though spot meant that you could still hear yourself in the rcvr. Since I have no frequency readout from either unit I can't find my transmit freq in the rcvr. I thought that's what the spot feature allowed you to do with the Magic Box. Any suggestions or is there something in my kit that isn't working right?
Rick
W2JAZ

| 254|254|2014-01-24 19:56:13|Richard Lawn|Unclear Message|

I'm not sure I was clear with my last message about the spotting feature. Looking at pg 17 of the instructions and the description of the spotting switch, I'm not "leaking any receive audio in the headphones and therefore can't zero beat rcvr with transmit frequency. This is obviously a real problem when I'm working without accurate dials on either rig and no digital freq. readout. Suggestions?

Rick

W2JAZ

| 255|252|2014-01-25 09:17:01|Richard Lawn|Re: Spotting in RCVR|

Ns40 and rcvr do cover same freq and the relay switching and xmitter output are all fine. I think it maybe something to do with how the rcvr headphone jack is wired as it is a stereo jack but uses no ground. I'll see if I have the proper value at r46 and check switch wiring. I was hoping to use this little station on the classic exchange tomorrow.....maybe not.

Rick

W2JAZ

On Friday, January 24, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

GE Rick,

Coupla thoughts,

Make sure you have 100 ohms at R46, adjust the value for good volume if needed

Locate the NS-40 signal in your big rig or on a freq counter to make sure its running.

Does your receiver actually cover the NS-40 freq?

Is the spotting switch wired correctly? See bottom of the MB photopage.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

--------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: rjlawn@gmail.com

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 5:08 PM

Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Great little kit which I recently finished and am using to integrate the NS40 and a South Jersey Radio CLub rcvr. Trouble is I though spot meant that you could still hear yourself in the rcvr. Since I have no frequency readout from either unit I can't find my transmit freq in the rcvr. I thought that's what the spot feature allowed you to do with the Magic Box. Any suggestions or is there something in my kit that isn't working right?
Rick
W2JAZ

| 256|252|2014-01-25 09:36:12|Richard Lawn|Re: Spotting in RCVR|

Ps to my last reply.....the schematic shows a 10meg resister at r46 not 100 ohms as your note says. Is the schematic right.

Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, Richard Lawn <rjlawn@gmail.com> wrote:

Ns40 and rcvr do cover same freq and the relay switching and xmitter output are all fine. I think it maybe something to do with how the rcvr headphone jack is wired as it is a stereo jack but uses no ground. I'll see if I have the proper value at r46 and check switch wiring. I was hoping to use this little station on the classic exchange tomorrow.....maybe not.
73
Rick
W2JAZ

On Friday, January 24, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

GE Rick,

Coupla thoughts,

Make sure you have 100 ohms at R46, adjust the value for good volume if needed

Locate the NS-40 signal in your big rig or on a freq counter to make sure its running.

Does your receiver actually cover the NS-40 freq?

Is the spotting switch wired correctly? See bottom of the MB photopage.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

--------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: rjlawn@gmail.com

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 5:08 PM

Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Great little kit which I recently finished and am using to integrate the NS40 and a South Jersey Radio CLub rcvr. Trouble is I though spot meant that you could still hear yourself in the rcvr. Since I have no frequency readout from either unit I can't find my transmit freq in the rcvr. I thought that's what the spot feature allowed you to do with the Magic Box. Any suggestions or is there something in my kit that isn't working right?
Rick
W2JAZ

Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (2)

Recent Activity:

| 257|252|2014-01-25 09:50:51|WA0ITP|Re: Spotting in RCVR|

No, the 100 ohms is correct and has been shipped for some time. A note was added to the web page to that effect. But even the 100 ohms is subject to change, much depends on the sensitivity of your receiver and the power of your transmitter. Start with 100 ohms and move it up or down in value until you get the volume you want. Good idea to check the wiring on your interconnecting cables.

You need to use mono, not stereo, cables at J5 and J6. The shell on the plug is grounded thru the ring contact on the jack.

GL, hope you get it soon and enjoy the Classic Exchange tomorrow.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: Richard Lawn

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 8:36 AM

Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Ps to my last reply.....the schematic shows a 10meg resister at r46 not 100 ohms as your note says. Is the schematic right.
Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, Richard Lawn <rjlawn@gmail.com> wrote:

Ns40 and rcvr do cover same freq and the relay switching and xmitter output are all fine. I think it maybe something to do with how the rcvr headphone jack is wired as it is a stereo jack but uses no ground. I'll see if I have the proper value at r46 and check switch wiring. I was hoping to use this little station on the classic exchange tomorrow.....maybe not.
73

Rick

W2JAZ

On Friday, January 24, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

GE Rick,

Coupla thoughts,

Make sure you have 100 ohms at R46, adjust the value for good volume if needed

Locate the NS-40 signal in your big rig or on a freq counter to make sure its running.

Does your receiver actually cover the NS-40 freq?

Is the spotting switch wired correctly? See bottom of the MB photopage.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

--------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: rjlawn@gmail.com

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 5:08 PM

Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Great little kit which I recently finished and am using to integrate the NS40 and a South Jersey Radio CLub rcvr. Trouble is I though spot meant that you could still hear yourself in the rcvr. Since I have no frequency readout from either unit I can't find my transmit freq in the rcvr. I thought that's what the spot feature allowed you to do with the Magic Box. Any suggestions or is there something in my kit that isn't working right?
Rick
W2JAZ

Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (2)

Recent Activity:

| 258|252|2014-01-25 09:51:07|Richard Lawn|Re: Spotting in RCVR|

Ps to my last reply.....the schematic shows a 10meg resister at r46 not 100 ohms as your note says. Is the schematic right.

Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, Richard Lawn <rjlawn@gmail.com> wrote:

Ns40 and rcvr do cover same freq and the relay switching and xmitter output are all fine. I think it maybe something to do with how the rcvr headphone jack is wired as it is a stereo jack but uses no ground. I'll see if I have the proper value at r46 and check switch wiring. I was hoping to use this little station on the classic exchange tomorrow.....maybe not.
73
Rick
W2JAZ

On Friday, January 24, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

GE Rick,

Coupla thoughts,

Make sure you have 100 ohms at R46, adjust the value for good volume if needed

Locate the NS-40 signal in your big rig or on a freq counter to make sure its running.

Does your receiver actually cover the NS-40 freq?

Is the spotting switch wired correctly? See bottom of the MB photopage.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

--------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: rjlawn@gmail.com

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 5:08 PM

Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Great little kit which I recently finished and am using to integrate the NS40 and a South Jersey Radio CLub rcvr. Trouble is I though spot meant that you could still hear yourself in the rcvr. Since I have no frequency readout from either unit I can't find my transmit freq in the rcvr. I thought that's what the spot feature allowed you to do with the Magic Box. Any suggestions or is there something in my kit that isn't working right?
Rick
W2JAZ

Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (2)

Recent Activity:

| 259|252|2014-01-25 09:53:55|Richard Lawn|Re: Spotting in RCVR|

Tnx for quick reply. Kill look through this again as all works including receive muting except spotting so I'll check the areas you suggest.

Tnx agn

Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

No, the 100 ohms is correct and has been shipped for some time. A note was added to the web page to that effect.   But even the 100 ohms is subject to change, much depends on the sensitivity of your receiver and the power of your transmitter. Start with 100 ohms and move it up or down in value until you get the volume you want. Good idea to check the wiring on your interconnecting cables.

You need to use mono, not stereo, cables at J5 and J6. The shell on the plug is grounded thru the ring contact on the jack.

GL, hope you get it soon and enjoy the Classic Exchange tomorrow.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72   WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: Richard Lawn

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 8:36 AM

Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Ps to my last reply.....the schematic shows a 10meg resister at r46 not 100 ohms as your note says. Is the schematic right.
Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, Richard Lawn <rjlawn@gmail.com> wrote:

Ns40 and rcvr do cover same freq and the relay switching and xmitter output are all fine. I think it maybe something to do with how the rcvr headphone jack is wired as it is a stereo jack but uses no ground. I'll see if I have the proper value at r46 and check switch wiring. I was hoping to use this little station on the classic exchange tomorrow.....maybe not.
73

Rick

W2JAZ

On Friday, January 24, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

GE Rick,

Coupla thoughts,

Make sure you have 100 ohms at R46, adjust the value for good volume if needed

Locate the NS-40 signal in your big rig or on a freq counter to make sure its running.

Does your receiver actually cover the NS-40 freq?

Is the spotting switch wired correctly? See bottom of the MB photopage.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

--------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72   WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: rjlawn@gmail.com

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 5:08 PM

Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Great little kit which I recently finished and am using to integrate the NS40 and a South Jersey Radio CLub rcvr. Trouble is I though spot meant that you could still hear yourself in the rcvr. Since I have no frequency readout from either unit I can't find my transmit freq in the rcvr. I thought that's what the spot feature allowed you to do with the Magic Box. Any suggestions or is there something in my kit that isn't working right?
Rick
W2JAZ

Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (2)

Recent Activity:

| 260|252|2014-01-25 09:54:06|WA0ITP|Re: Spotting in RCVR|

Forgot to add. If your MB is in a metal enclosure, J5 and J6 can't be grounded to the panel with nuts. They will need also need a slightly oversize hole to prevent contact.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: WA0ITP

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 8:50 AM

Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

No, the 100 ohms is correct and has been shipped for some time. A note was added to the web page to that effect.   But even the 100 ohms is subject to change, much depends on the sensitivity of your receiver and the power of your transmitter. Start with 100 ohms and move it up or down in value until you get the volume you want. Good idea to check the wiring on your interconnecting cables.

You need to use mono, not stereo, cables at J5 and J6. The shell on the plug is grounded thru the ring contact on the jack.

GL, hope you get it soon and enjoy the Classic Exchange tomorrow.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72   WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: Richard Lawn

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 8:36 AM

Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Ps to my last reply.....the schematic shows a 10meg resister at r46 not 100 ohms as your note says. Is the schematic right.
Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, Richard Lawn <rjlawn@gmail.com> wrote:

Ns40 and rcvr do cover same freq and the relay switching and xmitter output are all fine. I think it maybe something to do with how the rcvr headphone jack is wired as it is a stereo jack but uses no ground. I'll see if I have the proper value at r46 and check switch wiring. I was hoping to use this little station on the classic exchange tomorrow.....maybe not.
73

Rick

W2JAZ

On Friday, January 24, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

GE Rick,

Coupla thoughts,

Make sure you have 100 ohms at R46, adjust the value for good volume if needed

Locate the NS-40 signal in your big rig or on a freq counter to make sure its running.

Does your receiver actually cover the NS-40 freq?

Is the spotting switch wired correctly? See bottom of the MB photopage.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

--------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72   WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: rjlawn@gmail.com

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 5:08 PM

Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Great little kit which I recently finished and am using to integrate the NS40 and a South Jersey Radio CLub rcvr. Trouble is I though spot meant that you could still hear yourself in the rcvr. Since I have no frequency readout from either unit I can't find my transmit freq in the rcvr. I thought that's what the spot feature allowed you to do with the Magic Box. Any suggestions or is there something in my kit that isn't working right?
Rick
W2JAZ

Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (2)

Recent Activity:

| 261|252|2014-01-25 09:57:48|Richard Lawn|Re: Spotting in RCVR|

Yes I know I did this right in fact the guy who designed our rcvr did the same thing in isolating the ground.

Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

Forgot to add. If your MB is in a metal enclosure, J5 and J6 can't be grounded to the panel with nuts. They will need also need a slightly oversize hole to prevent contact.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72   WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: WA0ITP

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 8:50 AM

Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

No, the 100 ohms is correct and has been shipped for some time. A note was added to the web page to that effect.   But even the 100 ohms is subject to change, much depends on the sensitivity of your receiver and the power of your transmitter. Start with 100 ohms and move it up or down in value until you get the volume you want. Good idea to check the wiring on your interconnecting cables.

You need to use mono, not stereo, cables at J5 and J6. The shell on the plug is grounded thru the ring contact on the jack.

GL, hope you get it soon and enjoy the Classic Exchange tomorrow.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72   WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: Richard Lawn

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 8:36 AM

Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Ps to my last reply.....the schematic shows a 10meg resister at r46 not 100 ohms as your note says. Is the schematic right.
Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, Richard Lawn <rjlawn@gmail.com> wrote:

Ns40 and rcvr do cover same freq and the relay switching and xmitter output are all fine. I think it maybe something to do with how the rcvr headphone jack is wired as it is a stereo jack but uses no ground. I'll see if I have the proper value at r46 and check switch wiring. I was hoping to use this little station on the classic exchange tomorrow.....maybe not.
73

Rick

W2JAZ

On Friday, January 24, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

GE Rick,

Coupla thoughts,

Make sure you have 100 ohms at R46, adjust the value for good volume if needed

Locate the NS-40 signal in your big rig or on a freq counter to make sure its running.

Does your receiver actually cover the NS-40 freq?

Is the spotting switch wired correctly? See bottom of the MB photopage.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

--------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72   WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: rjlawn@gmail.com

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 5:08 PM

Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Great little kit which I recently finished and am u

| 262|252|2014-01-25 10:15:15|Richard Lawn|Re: Spotting in RCVR|

Just to let you know, I just checked and r46 in my kit is. 10 meg not 100 ohm! No doubt that's the problem.

Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, Richard Lawn <rjlawn@gmail.com> wrote:

Yes I know I did this right in fact the guy who designed our rcvr did the same thing in isolating the ground.
Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

Forgot to add. If your MB is in a metal enclosure, J5 and J6 can't be grounded to the panel with nuts. They will need also need a slightly oversize hole to prevent contact.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72   WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: WA0ITP

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 8:50 AM

Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

No, the 100 ohms is correct and has been shipped for some time. A note was added to the web page to that effect.   But even the 100 ohms is subject to change, much depends on the sensitivity of your receiver and the power of your transmitter. Start with 100 ohms and move it up or down in value until you get the volume you want. Good idea to check the wiring on your interconnecting cables.

You need to use mono, not stereo, cables at J5 and J6. The shell on the plug is grounded thru the ring contact on the jack.

GL, hope you get it soon and enjoy the Classic Exchange tomorrow.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72   WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: Richard Lawn

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 8:36 AM

Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Ps to my last reply.....the schematic shows a 10meg resister at r46 not 100 ohms as your note says. Is the schematic right.
Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, Richard Lawn <rjlawn@gmail.com> wrote:

Ns40 and rcvr do cover same freq and the relay switching and xmitter output are all fine. I think it maybe something to do with how the rcvr headphone jack is wired as it is a stereo jack but uses no ground. I'll see if I have the proper value at r46 and check switch wiring. I was hoping to use this little station on the classic exchange tomorrow.....maybe not.
73

Rick

W2JAZ

On Friday, January 24, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

GE Rick,

Coupla thoughts,

Make sure you have 100 ohms at R46, adjust the value for good volume if needed

Locate the NS-40 signal in your big rig or on a freq counter to make sure its running.

Does your receiver actually cover the NS-40 freq?

Is the spotting switch wired correctly? See bottom of the MB photopage.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

--------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72   WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

| 263|252|2014-01-25 10:16:23|Jim Kortge|Re: Spotting in RCVR|

On 1/25/2014 9:36 AM, Richard Lawn wrote:

>
>
> Ps to my last reply.....the schematic shows a 10meg resister at r46
> not 100 ohms as your note says. Is the schematic right.
> Rick

Rick,

The 10Meg has been replaced by 100 Ohms, which should have been
included with your kit. The schematic has been updated but not posted
on the 4SQRP web as yet, but will be soon. However, there is a note
there about the change to 100 Ohms for R46.

Also, the audio connector on the MagicBox is indeed a stereo jack.
That was done to accommodate receivers with stereo outs to headphones.
It will work fine with any single ended output.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

>
> On Saturday, January 25, 2014, Richard Lawn <rjlawn@gmail.com
> rjlawn@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Ns40 and rcvr do cover same freq and the relay switching and
> xmitter output are all fine. I think it maybe something to do with
> how the rcvr headphone jack is wired as it is a stereo jack but
> uses no ground. I'll see if I have the proper value at r46 and
> check switch wiring. I was hoping to use this little station on
> the classic exchange tomorrow.....maybe not.
> 73
> Rick
> W2JAZ
>
> On Friday, January 24, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:
>
> __
>
> __
>
> GE Rick,
> Coupla thoughts,
> Make sure you have 100 ohms at R46, adjust the value for good
> volume if needed
> Locate the NS-40 signal in your big rig or on a freq counter
> to make sure its running.
> Does your receiver actually cover the NS-40 freq?
> Is the spotting switch wired correctly? See bottom of the MB
> photopage.
> Good luck and let us know how it goes.
> --------------------------------
> Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72 WA0ITP
> www.wa0itp.com <http://www.wa0itp.com>
> www.4sqrp.com <http://www.4sqrp.com>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* rjlawn@gmail.com
> *To:* K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
> *Sent:* Friday, January 24, 2014 5:08 PM
> *Subject:* [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR
>
> Great little kit which I recently finished and am using to
> integrate the NS40 and a South Jersey Radio CLub rcvr.
> Trouble is I though spot meant that you could still hear
> yourself in the rcvr. Since I have no frequency readout
> from either unit I can't find my transmit freq in the
> rcvr. I thought that's what the spot feature allowed you
> to do with the Magic Box. Any suggestions or is there
> something in my kit that isn't working right?
> Rick
> W2JAZ
>
> Reply via web post
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/K8IQY-MagicBox/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJwZXZxbW92BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzc0NzEzOTI3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2MzEwOARtc2dJZAMyNTMEc2VjA2Z0cgRzbGsDcnBseQRzdGltZQMxMzkwNjA1NTQ2?act=reply&messageNum=253>
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| 264|252|2014-01-25 12:12:44|Richard Lawn|Re: Spotting in RCVR|

Well, no luck. Took it out of case replaced 10 meg R46 with 100 ohm put everything back and the receiver is still dead when I hit the spot switch though I do of course hear the side tone. I even completely disconnected the j10 aspect of switch with same result. Suggestions?

Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

Congrasts on retirement, retired in 1999, great thing to be able to do. Ham radio has kept me going.

take good care es ttul.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72   WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: Richard Lawn

To: WA0ITP

Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 9:38 AM

Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Yes it was an early one and I'm just now getting around to using it. Retired not long ago hi hi and finally getting caught up!  I never noticed the change on the website. No prob with the resister as I have tons of them. Just pulled it out of the ten tec case and will swap out part after xyl and I take a walk. I'll let you know if the problem is solved. I suspect it will be.
Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

FB Rick, hope the 100 ohm is all that needed to make it play for you. Your kit must be one of the early ones. I'd be happy to send you a 100 ohm if you need one.

Good luck in the CE

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72   WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: Richard Lawn

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 9:15 AM

Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

Just to let you know, I just checked and r46 in my kit is. 10 meg not 100 ohm! No doubt that's the problem.
Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, Richard Lawn <rjlawn@gmail.com> wrote:

Yes I know I did this right in fact the guy who designed our rcvr did the same thing in isolating the ground.
Rick

On Saturday, January 25, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

Forgot to add. If your MB is in a metal enclosure, J5 and J6 can't be grounded to the panel with nuts. They will need also need a slightly oversize hole to prevent contact.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72   WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: WA0ITP

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 8:50 AM

Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR

No, the 100 ohms is correct and has been shipped for some time. A note was added to the web page to that effect.   But even the 100 ohms is subject to change, much depends on the sensitivity of your receiver and the power of your transmitter. Start with 100 ohms and move it up or down in value until you get the volume you want. Good idea to check the wiring on your interconnecting cables.

You need to use mono, not stere

| 265|265|2014-01-25 13:27:30|jd_compton|Receive LED circuit|

This has been addressed before, but I'm still not clear on the Receive LED wiring. I've looked at the sketch by WA0ITP on the last page of the photo sheets and have found the C14/R23 and 2N7000 area in the schematic......but for the life of me, I still can't figure exactly how to combine these two schematics to actually add the LED circuit.

I could just start soldering to see what would work, but don't want to mess up what I've already built by burning out a component.

Could someone give a "detailed" description of the exact point to connect to in the main schematic as well as all the components that have to be added for the LED circuit and how they're wired together?

THANKS!

| 266|266|2014-01-25 15:25:05|Jim Kortge|Re: MagicBox Receive LED circuit|

On 1/25/2014 1:38 PM, Jim Compton wrote:

> Jim,
>

Hello Jim

> I put a message on the Yahoo MagicBox Group site, but thought I'd send you a direct message also.
>
> I'm having some difficulty understanding the Receive LED wiring. The sketch in the photo gallery probably tells it all for someone who is more experienced, but I can't figure exactly where/how that sketch fits in to the schematic in the Assembly Manual. It almost looks like the LED circuit requires another 2N7000 plus the resistor and LED,
> but if that's not the case, then is a connection to the transistor already in the circuit with an LED/ 1-2K resistor in series to a 12v power point the meaning in the sketch?

It does. That's an addon piece of circuitry that Terry, WA0ITP
decided to incorporate into his MagicBox; is it not part of the design
of the circuitry that I did. It requires a user supplied LED, 1-2K
resistor, 2N7000 and four connections to the existing circuitry in the
MagicBox. I see it as a bit redundant, as the MagicBox already has
provisions for a "power ON" LED and a "Tranmit" LED. Terry's
implementation has the receive LED on when receiving and off when
transmitting. The transmit LED circuit in the MagicBox works the
opposite way, it is off during receive and on during transmit, which I
thought was sufficient, since I wanted an LED indicate that the
MagicBox was being keyed; i.e. like an old fashioned "On the Air" sign
of years gone by.

>
> Anyway, if there is a simple way of describing this I would appreciate it....or if there is a way of sketching it into a copy of the main schematic, it would probably clear up the confusion.

See comments above. Terry built the circuitry on a small square of PC
board material using Manhattan-style construction and the wires coming
from it go to various points in the MagicBox to connect to power,
ground, and the gate lead of the existing Q12, using the active pad
where C14 is. C14 is not used in the MagicBox, so that pad is
available. I hope my comments help.

>
> Thanks,

You are welcome,

> Jim Compton, K4JDC

72,

Jim, K8IQY

>

| 267|252|2014-01-25 15:39:57|Jim Kortge|Re: Spotting in RCVR|

On 1/25/2014 12:12 PM, Richard Lawn wrote:

>
>
> Well, no luck. Took it out of case replaced 10 meg R46 with 100 ohm
> put everything back and the receiver is still dead when I hit the spot
> switch though I do of course hear the side tone.

But you are not hearing any audio from the receiver being mixed with
the sidetone? Is that correct?

I even completely

> disconnected the j10 aspect of switch with same result.

Wait. I don't understand the above. J10 has to be implemented (pins
1 and 2 anyway) to make the spot function work. Along with that, the
"Spot - Tune" implementation provided at J7 also needs to be working
if you expect to be able to flip the "SPOT -TUNE" switch one way and
key the transmitter on the air and have the receiver audio muted
(TUNE) and flip that same switch the opposite way "SPOT" and have the
transmitter on the air AND also "leak" some of the receive audio back
to the speaker so that it can be heard along with the sidetone, which
is always heard when the transmitter is keyed, by the key or
activating the "SPOT-TUNE" switch in either direction.

Suggestions?

Yes, implement a DPDT center off switch using the diagram on the 4SQRP
web page.

<http://www.4sqrp.com/kits/MagicBox/mbphotopage.html> and scroll down
to the Spot/Tune Switch wiring diagram. I think that diagram is also
in the latest version of the Assembly Manual, but maybe not. Hard to
keep up with all of the kits out there.

With the change of R46 to 100 Ohms, everything should work just fine.

> Rick

72 and I hope I've provided enough information for you Rick,

Jim, K8IQY

>
> On Saturday, January 25, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com
> wa0itp@mchsi.com>> wrote:
>
> __
> Congrasts on retirement, retired in 1999, great thing to be able
> to do. Ham radio has kept me going.
> take good care es ttul.
>
> ----------------------------------
> Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72 WA0ITP
> www.wa0itp.com <http://www.wa0itp.com>
> www.4sqrp.com <http://www.4sqrp.com>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Richard Lawn > 'rjlawn@gmail.com');>
> *To:* WA0ITP
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 25, 2014 9:38 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR
>
> Yes it was an early one and I'm just now getting around to
> using it. Retired not long ago hi hi and finally getting
> caught up! I never noticed the change on the website. No prob
> with the resister as I have tons of them. Just pulled it out
> of the ten tec case and will swap out part after xyl and I
> take a walk. I'll let you know if the problem is solved. I
> suspect it will be.
> Rick
>
> On Saturday, January 25, 2014, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:
>
> __
> FB Rick, hope the 100 ohm is all that needed to make it
> play for you. Your kit must be one of the early ones.
> I'd be happy to send you a 100 ohm if you need one.
> Good luck in the CE
>
> ----------------------------------
> Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72 WA0ITP
> www.wa0itp.com <http://www.wa0itp.com>
> www.4sqrp.com <http://www.4sqrp.com>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Richard Lawn
> *To:* K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 25, 2014 9:15 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting in RCVR
>
>
>
> Just to let you know, I just checked and r46 in my kit
> is. 10 meg not 100 ohm! No doubt that's the problem.
> Rick
>
> On Saturday, January 25, 2014, Richard Lawn
> <rjlawn@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Yes I know I did this right in fact the guy who
> designed our rcvr did the same thing in isolating
> the ground.
> Rick
>
> On Saturday, January 25, 2014, WA0ITP
> <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:
>
> __
>
> __
>
> Forgot to add. If your MB is in a metal
> enclosure, J5 and J6 can't be grounded to the
> panel with nuts. They will need also need a
> slightly oversize hole to prevent contact.
>
> ----------------------------------
> Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
> I love this radio stuff !
> 72 WA0ITP
> www.wa0itp.com <http://www.wa0itp.com>
> www.4sqrp.com <http://www.4sqrp.com>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* WA0ITP
> *To:* K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 25, 2014 8:50 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Spotting
> in RCVR
>
> No, the 100 ohms is correct and has been
> shipped for some time. A note was added
> to the web page to that effect. But even
> the 100 ohms is subject to change, much
> depends on the sensitivity of your
> receiver and the power of your
> transmitter. Start with 100 ohms and move
> it up or down in value until you get the
> volume you want. Good idea to check the
> wiring on your interconnecting cables.
> You need to use mono, not stere
>
>
>
>

| 268|265|2014-01-25 19:34:03|WA0ITP|Re: Receive LED circuit|

I added the receive LED just for fun and to add a little Wow factor when displaying it in action at OzarkCon. It created a stir and lots of guys played with the paddle to see it flash and to listen to the sidetone.

OK, the circuit is not part of the MB as such, its just an add on. If you want to add it, you'll need a 2N7000 or other small switching MOSFET, an LED, a 1 to 2k resistor, and some manhatan pads (if you want to build it that way). The 12 volts is picked up at the power jack wit a small diameter wire. Grounding can be done anywhere close to the circuit baord you've built.

I just changed the picture on the kits photopage to enlarge when clicked. Look at the enlargement and the hookup should be clear.

The yellow wire goes to the rigs power jack.

The purple wire goes to the hole in the C14 location where the driving signal can be found.

The blue and green wire goes to the LED on the front panel.

The ground wire is the short wire to te rear of the board.

The parts are soldered together just as they apppear in the schematic sketch.

The 2N7000 must be oriented with it's flat side facing left as in the picture.

Don't know what else I can tell you, good luck with the addition, and enjoy your Magic Box.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----

From: jdcompton@mindspring.com

To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 12:27 PM

Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Receive LED circuit

This has been addressed before, but I'm still not clear on the Receive LED wiring. I've looked at the sketch by WA0ITP on the last page of the photo sheets and have found the C14/R23 and 2N7000 area in the schematic......but for the life of me, I still can't figure exactly how to combine these two schematics to actually add the LED circuit.

I could just start soldering to see what would work, but don't want to mess up what I've already built by burning out a component.

Could someone give a "detailed" description of the exact point to connect to in the main schematic as well as all the components that have to be added for the LED circuit and how they're wired together?

THANKS!

| 269|265|2014-01-25 21:45:20|Jim Compton|Re: Receive LED circuit|

Thank you! That is what I needed. I think it would be fun to have as an add-on. I do have one more question: do you have any idea how much power is required from a transmitter for the MagicBox to function properly? I've built several small transmitters that I suspect will put out between 500 mw and 1 w. I saw a comment on one of the threads in the Yahoo group that made me wonder if a fractional-watt transmitter is sufficient.
Thanks, again!
Jim C.

-----Original Message-----
From: WA0ITP
Sent: Jan 25, 2014 7:34 PM
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Receive LED circuit

I added the receive LED just for fun and to add a little Wow factor when displaying it in action at OzarkCon. It created a stir and lots of guys played with the paddle to see it flash and to listen to the sidetone.

OK, the circuit is not part of the MB as such, its just an add on. If you want to add it, you'll need a 2N7000 or other small switching MOSFET, an LED, a 1 to 2k resistor, and some manhatan pads (if you want to build it that way). The 12 volts is picked up at the power jack wit a small diameter wire. Grounding can be done anywhere close to the circuit baord you've built.

I just changed the picture on the kits photopage to enlarge when clicked. Look at the enlargement and the hookup should be clear.
The yellow wire goes to the rigs power jack.
The purple wire goes to the hole in the C14 location where the driving signal can be found.
The blue and green wire goes to the LED on the front panel.
The ground wire is the short wire to te rear of the board.
The parts are soldered together just as they apppear in the schematic sketch.
The 2N7000 must be oriented with it's flat side facing left as in the picture.

Don't know what else I can tell you, good luck with the addition, and enjoy your Magic Box.

----------------------------------
Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste.
I love this radio stuff !
72 WA0ITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com

----- Original Message -----
From: jdcompton@mindspring.com
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 12:27 PM
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Receive LED circuit

This has been addressed before, but I'm still not clear on the Receive LED wiring. I've looked at the sketch by WA0ITP on the last page of the photo sheets and have found the C14/R23 and 2N7000 area in the schematic......but for the life of me, I still can't figure exactly how to combine these two schematics to actually add the LED circuit.

I could just start soldering to see what would work, but don't want to mess up what I've already built by burning out a component.

Could someone give a "detailed" description of the exact point to connect to in the main schematic as well as all the components that have to be added for the LED circuit and how they're wired together?

THANKS!

| 270|265|2014-01-25 21:49:27|Lee Hiers|Re: Receive LED circuit|

On Sat, Jan 25, 2014 at 9:45 PM, Jim Compton <jdcompton@mindspring.com> wrote:

I do have one more question: do you have any idea how much power is required from a transmitter for the MagicBox to function properly? I've built several small transmitters that I suspect will put out between 500 mw and 1 w. I saw a comment on one of the threads in the Yahoo group that made me wonder if a fractional-watt transmitter is sufficient.

Any power should work - it's not RF-sensed switching, but switches from the key line. I've used a Tuna Tin 2 at about 200 mW.

73 de Lee

--
Lee Hiers, AA4GA
www.aa4ga.com

Submit your QRP DXCC totals to www.qrpdx.com!

| 271|265|2014-01-25 22:00:29|Jim Compton|Re: Receive LED circuit|

Great! All good news. I think the MagicBox is going to be even better that I had suspected.
Thanks, again, for the information.
Jim C.

-----Original Message-----
From: Lee Hiers
Sent: Jan 25, 2014 9:49 PM
To: K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Receive LED circuit

On Sat, Jan 25, 2014 at 9:45 PM, Jim Compton wrote:

> I do have one more question: do you have any idea how much power is
> required from a transmitter for the MagicBox to function properly? I've
> built several small transmitters that I suspect will put out between 500 mw
> and 1 w. I saw a comment on one of the threads in the Yahoo group that
> made me wonder if a fractional-watt transmitter is sufficient.
>
>
Any power should work - it's not RF-sensed switching, but switches from the
key line. I've used a Tuna Tin 2 at about 200 mW.

73 de Lee
--
Lee Hiers, AA4GA
www.aa4ga.com

Submit your QRP DXCC totals to www.qrpdx.com!

| 272|265|2014-01-25 22:07:19|Jim Kortge|Re: Receive LED circuit|

On 1/25/2014 9:45 PM, Jim Compton wrote:

>
>
> Thank you! That is what I needed. I think it would be fun to
> have as an add-on. I do have one more question: do you have any
> idea how much power is required from a transmitter for the
> MagicBox to function properly?

It will function with any transmitter power up to about 10-watts,
which is the upper power level it can handle.

I've built several small

> transmitters that I suspect will put out between 500 mw and 1 w.

It would work just fine with those. There is a few tenths of a dB
loss going through the MagicBox to the antenna, since it is a solid
state switch instead of a relay, but the loss is very small overall.

> I saw a comment on one of the threads in the Yahoo group that
> made me wonder if a fractional-watt transmitter is sufficient.

I've run one of mine with a barefoot SAVXO running at about 100
milliwatts on 17 meters and it worked just fine, as I expected it would.

>
> Thanks, again!
>
> Jim C.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 273|273|2014-03-15 08:10:45|DomBaines|Troubleshooting|

Hi,

Been given someones to look at as I have a magic box T/R (works fine between a HRO and a homebrew valve TX, with extra key isolation (keyall interface http://wb9kzy.com/keyall.htm) as >-70V on the key and was not 100% that it would handle it, but I think I could have used this too http://www.4sqrp.com/kits/MagicBox/auxillarypnpswitch.pdf. I suspect some of the FET have gone phut, at least one of the 2N7000 looks backwards, interesting 1M chain of R for R46 instead of one 10M resistor, I note now 100 ohm shipped)..... anyway looking for a troubleshooting guide... is there such a thing?

72

Dom
M1KRA

| 274|273|2014-03-15 08:14:26|DomBaines|Re: Troubleshooting|

Callsign is M1KTA you'd think I could type my own call hihi.

| 275|273|2014-03-15 11:11:12|Jim Kortge|Re: Troubleshooting|

On 3/15/2014 8:10 AM, dombaines@yahoo.com wrote:

>
>
> Hi,

Hi Dom,

>
> Been given someones to look at as I have a magic box T/R (works fine
> between a HRO and a homebrew valve TX, with extra key isolation
> (keyall interface http://wb9kzy.com/keyall.htm) as >-70V on the key
> and was not 100% that it would handle it, but I think I could have
> used this too
> http://www.4sqrp.com/kits/MagicBox/auxillarypnpswitch.pdf.

Yes, either is an adequate solution for keying negative voltages.

I suspect

> some of the FET have gone phut, at least one of the 2N7000 looks
> backwards, interesting 1M chain of R for R46 instead of one 10M
> resistor, I note now 100 ohm shipped)..... anyway looking for a
> troubleshooting guide... is there such a thing?

No not really. I'd suggest since you have your working unit there
along with the "broken one", that you take yours out of service and
use it along with a keys on both to activate them and make comparative
measurements between the two units under the same conditions. I'm
guessing the ATTiny2313 in the broken unit is ok, as it is well
protected unless it was plugged in backwards. If transistor were
installed backwards, who knows what might have happened. You can't
run a MagicBox without the ATTiny2313 as it provides the required
biases to transistor pairs to keep one "ON" and one "OFF" in key
circuits. Without it, transistors get really hot!

If you study the schematic, you'll see some of the pairs that I'm
talking about in the RF switching section. Ultimately, you might have
to shotgun it and replace all of the transistors at one time to get it
back to where it would be before power was applied and things started
happening.

72 and GL,

Jim, K8IQY

PS...we did know your call too! :-)

>
> 72
>
> Dom
> M1KRA
>
>

| 276|273|2014-03-15 13:43:17|Jim Kortge|Re: Troubleshooting|

On 3/15/2014 11:18 AM, Dominic Baines wrote:

> Hi Jim,

Hi Dom,

>
> The ATT uPC is definitely phut.... I swapped it with the one from the
> working unit and tested quickly and it is duff definitely.

OK, I'm wonder what the builder did to cause that to happen. Did
something radically wrong, that's for sure.

Easy enough

> to obtain new blank one and could add the programming back onto it....
> is the HEX anywhere or do I have to order a new one programmed from you?

We need to have Paul Smith, <psmith61@cox.net> send you a new one. I
don't know what the cost will be, but you can discuss that with Paul.
I know he as extra programmed chips. I've cc him on this reply so
he will know what is going on.

>
> I'm going to mass swap all the transistors too. Got plenty in junk
> box....

Yes, I think that is the correct approach and while you are doing
that, look for toasted resistors too. All of the caps should be OK as
will as the diodes I believe.

>
> 72

72 and thanks for the update,

Jim, K8IQY

| 277|273|2014-03-15 14:16:09|Paul Smith|Re: Troubleshooting|

Jim and Dom,

I have a few extra chips. Please send your mailing address and I will get one coming Monday. It is too late to make the post office today. I have no idea what the cost of the part will be and will have to email the postage charges.

Thanks,

de Paul Smith N0NBD

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 15, 2014, at 12:43 PM, Jim Kortge <jim.k8iqy@gmail.com> wrote:

On 3/15/2014 11:18 AM, Dominic Baines wrote:
> Hi Jim,

Hi Dom,

>
> The ATT uPC is definitely phut.... I swapped it with the one from the
> working unit and tested quickly and it is duff definitely.

OK, I'm wonder what the builder did to cause that to happen. Did
something radically wrong, that's for sure.

Easy enough
> to obtain new blank one and could add the programming back onto it....
> is the HEX anywhere or do I have to order a new one programmed from you?

We need to have Paul Smith, <psmith61@cox.net> send you a new one. I
don't know what the cost will be, but you can discuss that with Paul.
I know he as extra programmed chips. I've cc him on this reply so
he will know what is going on.
>
> I'm going to mass swap all the transistors too. Got plenty in junk
> box....

Yes, I think that is the correct approach and while you are doing
that, look for toasted resistors too. All of the caps should be OK as
will as the diodes I believe.

>
> 72

72 and thanks for the update,

Jim, K8IQY

| 278|273|2014-03-16 04:25:32|dombaines@yahoo.com|Re: Troubleshooting|

Was picked up at a rally so no idea who original builder was.

D3 was wrong way around too :-)

The mind boggles what the builder was doing.

Thanks.

72
Dom
M1KTA

On 15/03/2014 17:43, Jim Kortge wrote:

On 3/15/2014 11:18 AM, Dominic Baines wrote:
> Hi Jim,

Hi Dom,

>
> The ATT uPC is definitely phut.... I swapped it with the one from the
> working unit and tested quickly and it is duff definitely.

OK, I'm wonder what the builder did to cause that to happen. Did
something radically wrong, that's for sure.

Easy enough
> to obtain new blank one and could add the programming back onto it....
> is the HEX anywhere or do I have to order a new one programmed from you?

We need to have Paul Smith, send you a new one. I
don't know what the cost will be, but you can discuss that with Paul.
I know he as extra programmed chips. I've cc him on this reply so
he will know what is going on.
>
> I'm going to mass swap all the transistors too. Got plenty in junk
> box....

Yes, I think that is the correct approach and while you are doing
that, look for toasted resistors too. All of the caps should be OK as
will as the diodes I believe.

>
> 72

72 and thanks for the update,

Jim, K8IQY

| 279|273|2014-03-16 10:15:01|Jim Kortge|Re: Troubleshooting|

On 3/16/2014 4:25 AM, dombaines@yahoo.com wrote:

>
>
> Was picked up at a rally so no idea who original builder was.

Had to be someone from your side of the pond though.

>
> D3 was wrong way around too :-)

Really, that is the main PIN diode for switching the RF. Only works
if installed correctly.

>
> The mind boggles what the builder was doing.

No paying attention I'd say, or maybe having eyesight issues.

>
> Thanks.

You are welcome. Hope you can get it going again.

72 and GL,

Jim, K8IQY

| 280|273|2014-03-20 07:07:40|Dominic Baines|Re: Troubleshooting|

Jim,

It took a while but every transistor is now out of the board and couple
other items that were in backwards was about to start replacing it all
but not heard about the uPC yet.

72

Dom
M1KTA

If you study the schematic, you'll see some of the pairs that I'm
talking about in the RF switching section. Ultimately, you might have
to shotgun it and replace all of the transistors at one time to get it
back to where it would be before power was applied and things started
happening.

72 and GL,

Jim, K8IQY

| 281|273|2014-03-20 10:09:08|Jim Kortge|Re: Troubleshooting|

On 3/20/2014 7:07 AM, Dominic Baines wrote:

> Jim,
>
> It took a while but every transistor is now out of the board and couple
> other items that were in backwards was about to start replacing it all
> but not heard about the uPC yet.

Hi Dom. Thanks for the update. Did you contact Paul Smith at the
email address that I gave you? I know he is a really busy guy at this
time as he is one of the principal organizers of Ozarkcon this year.
He is probably running quite fast.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 282|273|2014-04-05 03:28:32|DomBaines|Re: Troubleshooting|

Still not heard yet from PAul.

I understand Ozarkon is on so probably busy.

72

Dom
M1KTA

| 283|273|2014-04-05 20:46:15|Paul Smith|Re: Troubleshooting|

Dom, I mailed a new chip several days ago. It should arrive soon. The package was thin enough not to require a customs form. Good luck.

de Paul Smith N0NBD

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 5, 2014, at 2:28 AM, <dombaines@yahoo.com> wrote:

Still not heard yet from PAul.

I understand Ozarkon is on so probably busy.

72

Dom
M1KTA

| 284|273|2014-04-07 15:12:47|DomBaines|Re: Troubleshooting|

Tnx should be here within week as USPS/UK is pretty good usually.

Will let you know when arrives.

72

Dom
M1KTA

| 285|273|2014-04-08 09:35:54|DomBaines|Re: Troubleshooting|

Arrived this morning...
Will insert and let you know how it goes tnx.
72

Dom
M1KTA

| 286|286|2014-08-10 15:48:08|pdouglas12|cathode keying|

I know the Magic Box is spec'd for QRP as well as cathode keying. I am, right now, about 2/3 through stuffing the MB board, maybe a bit more. I plan to use it with an old Knight T-50 (RF power attenuated down to 5 watts). The T-50 tube chart shows the cathode is indeed keyed and carries 120 volts key up with 0 volts key down. Right now, I am protecting my CMOS III keyer with the Jackson Harbor Press Keyall; it works very nicely. The question is whether I need to keep the Keyall in line, or can the Magic box handle the interconnect between the CMOS III and the transmitter safely by itself.

Preston Douglas WJ2V

| 287|286|2014-08-11 08:02:36|Jim Kortge|Re: cathode keying|

Preston,

If I remember correctly, the keying MOSFET in the MagicBox is rated
for 100 volts, but a different part could be used there rate to 200 r
400 volts without changing the performance of the unit. I just got
back from another vacation, so will figure out the details and post
them later today or maybe tomorrow.

73,

Jim, K8IQY

On 8/10/2014 3:48 PM, pdouglas12@aol.com [K8IQY-MagicBox] wrote:
>
>
> I know the Magic Box is spec'd for QRP as well as cathode keying. I
> am, right now, about 2/3 through stuffing the MB board, maybe a bit
> more. I plan to use it with an old Knight T-50 (RF power attenuated
> down to 5 watts). The T-50 tube chart shows the cathode is indeed
> keyed and carries 120 volts key up with 0 volts key down. Right now,
> I am protecting my CMOS III keyer with the Jackson Harbor Press
> Keyall; it works very nicely. The question is whether I need to keep
> the Keyall in line, or can the Magic box handle the interconnect
> between the CMOS III and the transmitter safely by itself.
>
>
> Preston Douglas WJ2V
>
>
>
>

| 288|286|2014-08-23 17:04:52|pdouglas12|Re: cathode keying|

Yes, the IRF 510 has a absolute data listing for 100v. So, I can either use my existing keyer-to-transmitter interface or change to a stronger device. I am inclined to leave it alone, as I have a working solution already. As to the question of RF from a boat anchor CW transmitter, I am going to try building a Pi attenuator using 30W Craddock resistors. I think thye should be OK just sinked to a metal case, with a 30 watt out (max) transmitter (the Knight T-50), and I'll try that with the MB.

I have finished the MB, and it checks out correctly. I had a moment when I found the keying jack behaved as if it was shorted. However, changing to a proper stereo plug (mono shorted it) resolved it immediately.

Nice piece of equipment. Thanks, Jim.

Preston WJ2V

| 289|286|2014-08-24 12:33:50|Richard Lawn|Re: cathode keying|

Interesting discussion as I just acquired a dx60 and hr10 from a friend and eventually want to use it with a vintage RX. I also of course have the magic box built initially to use with the 4state tx and then with a local club kit project. Please let us know what mods you end up making to the stock magic box to allow it to work with vintage rigs that put out more rf like your knight kit.

Tnx

73 de w2JAZ

Rick

On Saturday, August 23, 2014, pdouglas12@aol.com [K8IQY-MagicBox] <K8IQY-MagicBox@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Yes, the IRF 510 has a absolute data listing for 100v. So, I can either use my existing keyer-to-transmitter interface or change to a stronger device. I am inclined to leave it alone, as I have a working solution already. As to the question of RF from a boat anchor CW transmitter, I am going to try building a Pi attenuator using 30W Craddock resistors. I think thye should be OK just sinked to a metal case, with a 30 watt out (max) transmitter (the Knight T-50), and I'll try that with the MB.

I have finished the MB, and it checks out correctly. I had a moment when I found the keying jack behaved as if it was shorted. However, changing to a proper stereo plug (mono shorted it) resolved it immediately.

Nice piece of equipment. Thanks, Jim.

Preston WJ2V

| 290|286|2014-08-24 13:02:31|pdouglas12|Re: cathode keying|

Hi Rick and all,

Well, my solution is a little kludgy. I just ordered a couple of Craddock 30 watt thick film resistors: 2 x 20 ohms and 1 x 56 ohms to approximate 7 dB attenuation in a T configuration, to bring a 30 watt transmitter down to around 5+ watts. I would think that these could withstand as much as 60 watts CW, well sinked. I just looked online for a network configurator and went to Mouser to find them. Cost is nominal. This, of course, does not resolve the full power problem, but the MB wasn't designed for boat anchors.

As to the keying switch, my solution is to connect the MB to a Keyall (kit cost also very nominal at WB9KZY.com). This device is designed to protect CMOS keyers from the high voltage of boat anchor key requirements. For instance, my T-50 voltage is 120 -- key up and 0 down. Just a little too high for the MB.

So, you need to protect the MB in two places, RF input and Key input if you want to use a boat anchor transmitter.

I know this may be anathema, and apologies to Jim, but see also Phil Salas' article in February 2012 QST. He uses a pair of 6 dollar mini relays and a simple 13v circuit to accomplish the T/R switching and keying of a boat anchor transmitter. His project does not have provision for side tone or direct speaker muting, but it does have a relay contact for full muting. Alternatively, monitoring may still work, as his relay device grounds the receiver antenna, so general shack leakage may provide a monitor signal. Also, note that the circuit provides a few millisecond delay before receiving opens up, thus protecting the receiver. And he says the relays are fast enough for true QSK up to about 50 w.p.m.

So, the MB is certainly an elegant solution to QRP separates. And it can be pressed into service for boat anchors. But is isn't designed for that service. I don't know how it might be re-designed for heavier rigs. (Heavier, get it?) It may not be practical, but maybe Jim will jump in here.

73,

Preston WJ2V

| 291|286|2014-08-24 15:50:55|WA0ITP|Re: cathode keying|

GA Pres,

I see Chuck Olson uses an IRF 820 (500v, 5A pulsed) in his Keyall. One of those should work OK at Q17 for keying your T-50. The RF input of 30W will be a problem, as you mentioned. I think the 1N4007 at D3 might handle it (~40V and .7A) But I'm not at all sure about the surrounding circuitry ( mute, switching bias on the 4007, etc) A long time ago I believe someone tested the MB at higher power levels, maybe 10W, but we never heard the results of his experiments - altho it may be buried in the Yahoo "conversations". It may be time to just try it and see what smokes. I'll look for my old beta MB and see what happens at various power levels (also called destructive testing :o). In the 60's Sony, Panasonic, and Sharp used this approach to increase reliability.

Good luck and pse keep us posted, as this topic comes up several times a year.

--  72 WAØITP I love this radio stuff. www.wa0itp.com wa0itp@wa0itp.com www.4sqrp.com

On 8/24/2014 12:02 PM, pdouglas12@aol.com [K8IQY-MagicBox] wrote:

Hi Rick and all,
Well, my solution is a little kludgy. I just ordered a couple of Craddock 30 watt thick film resistors: 2 x 20 ohms and 1 x 56 ohms to approximate 7 dB attenuation in a T configuration, to bring a 30 watt transmitter down to around 5+ watts. I would think that these could withstand as much as 60 watts CW, well sinked. I just looked online for a network configurator and went to Mouser to find them. Cost is nominal. This, of course, does not resolve the full power problem, but the MB wasn't designed for boat anchors.

As to the keying switch, my solution is to connect the MB to a Keyall (kit cost also very nominal at WB9KZY.com). This device is designed to protect CMOS keyers from the high voltage of boat anchor key requirements. For instance, my T-50 voltage is 120 -- key up and 0 down. Just a little too high for the MB.

So, you need to protect the MB in two places, RF input and Key input if you want to use a boat anchor transmitter.

I know this may be anathema, and apologies to Jim, but see also Phil Salas' article in February 2012 QST. He uses a pair of 6 dollar mini relays and a simple 13v circuit to accomplish the T/R switching and keying of a boat anchor transmitter. His project does not have provision for side tone or direct speaker muting, but it does have a relay contact for full muting. Alternatively, monitoring may still work, as his relay device grounds the receiver antenna, so general shack leakage may provide a monitor signal. Also, note that the circuit provides a few millisecond delay before receiving opens up, thus protecting the receiver. And he says the relays are fast enough for true QSK up to about 50 w.p.m.

So, the MB is certainly an elegant solution to QRP separates. And it can be pressed into service for boat anchors. But is isn't designed for that service. I don't know how it might be re-designed for heavier rigs. (Heavier, get it?) It may not be practical, but maybe Jim will jump in here.

73,

Preston WJ2V

-- 72 WAØITP I love this radio stuff. www.wa0itp.com wa0itp@wa0itp.com www.4sqrp.com

| 292|286|2014-08-24 16:39:03|Preston|Re: cathode keying|

Hi Terry,

It is such a miracle that I have a project work from the starting gate, there is no way I am going to now destructively "test" it! I am just going to assume that 30-odd watts will ruin a really good project! I will definitely try it with the attenuator and Keyall, and expect I will really enjoy it that way, besides keeping the QRP faith. But I will be delighted to know how your tests work out!

Regards,

WJ2V

Preston Douglas

On Aug 24, 2014, at 3:51 PM, WA0ITP <wa0itp@mchsi.com> wrote:

GA Pres,

I see Chuck Olson uses an IRF 820 (500v, 5A pulsed) in his Keyall. One of those should work OK at Q17 for keying your T-50. The RF input of 30W will be a problem, as you mentioned. I think the 1N4007 at D3 might handle it (~40V and .7A) But I'm not at all sure about the surrounding circuitry ( mute, switching bias on the 4007, etc) A long time ago I believe someone tested the MB at higher power levels, maybe 10W, but we never heard the results of his experiments - altho it may be buried in the Yahoo "conversations". It may be time to just try it and see what smokes. I'll look for my old beta MB and see what happens at various power levels (also called destructive testing :o). In the 60's Sony, Panasonic, and Sharp used this approach to increase reliability.

Good luck and pse keep us posted, as this topic comes up several times a year.
--  72 WAØITP I love this radio stuff. www.wa0itp.com wa0itp@wa0itp.com www.4sqrp.com
On 8/24/2014 12:02 PM, pdouglas12@aol.com [K8IQY-MagicBox] wrote:

Hi Rick and all,
Well, my solution is a little kludgy. I just ordered a couple of Craddock 30 watt thick film resistors: 2 x 20 ohms and 1 x 56 ohms to approximate 7 dB attenuation in a T configuration, to bring a 30 watt transmitter down to around 5+ watts. I would think that these could withstand as much as 60 watts CW, well sinked. I just looked online for a network configurator and went to Mouser to find them. Cost is nominal. This, of course, does not resolve the full power problem, but the MB wasn't designed for boat anchors.

As to the keying switch, my solution is to connect the MB to a Keyall (kit cost also very nominal at WB9KZY.com). This device is designed to protect CMOS keyers from the high voltage of boat anchor key requirements. For instance, my T-50 voltage is 120 -- key up and 0 down. Just a little too high for the MB.

So, you need to protect the MB in two places, RF input and Key input if you want to use a boat anchor transmitter.

I know this may be anathema, and apologies to Jim, but see also Phil Salas' article in February 2012 QST. He uses a pair of 6 dollar mini relays and a simple 13v circuit to accomplish the T/R switching and keying of a boat anchor transmitter. His project does not have provision for side tone or direct speaker muting, but it does have a relay contact for full muting. Alternatively, monitoring may still work, as his relay device grounds the receiver antenna, so general shack leakage may provide a monitor signal. Also, note that the circuit provides a few millisecond delay before receiving opens up, thus protecting the receiver. And he says the relays are fast enough for true QSK up to about 50 w.p.m.

So, the MB is certainly an elegant solution to QRP separates. And it can be pressed into service for boat anchors. But is isn't designed for that service. I don't know how it might be re-designed for heavier rigs. (Heavier, get it?) It may not be practical, but maybe Jim will jump in here.

73,

Preston WJ2V
--  72 WAØITP I love this radio stuff. www.wa0itp.com wa0itp@wa0itp.com www.4sqrp.com

| 293|293|2014-09-01 12:45:39|Preston|Attenuator report|

As readers of the group know, I have wanted to operate my Knight T-50 and Drake 2B station in full QSK mode with the Magic Box. The MB was not designed for boat anchor operation, and would not tolerate RF in the 25-30 watt range that the T-50 generates; nor would it be safe to operate its keying output into the 120 volt key up voltage of the T-50. (Imagine, the key is hot with 120v DC in this "Novice" rig. Consumers Union would rate this old boat anchor "not recommended" on that issue alone! It's wonder any of us survived childhood.) The Keyall solid state device is an easy to build and cheap way to use a keyer or MB to key such a transmitter as this one. (just put WB9KZY dot com in your browser--15 bucks, shipped).

Now for the problem of too much RF. Jim suggested that redesign of the MB for higher power was possible, but when I suggested maybe a power attenuator would be another way to go, he agreed that would work. A little calculation with online calculators (easy to Google) showed me that a 7dB power attenuator would take my 25 watts down to 5 watts. (Remember, the T-50 was so named for its input power, which is how it was calculated in those days--my meters all show output from a relatively new 807 final runs around 25 to a max of 30 watts. Attenuators have several configurations possible, but the easiest are in T or Pi configuration. I decided on T. Mouser has Craddock thick film resistors at around 4+ bucks each. I needed two 20 ohm and one 56 ohm, and I decided to use 30 watt units. Testing the wired up version showed that I had calculated perfectly, resulting in almost exactly 5 watts output and flat 50 ohm impedance. However (!) I did not provide for heat sinking beyond screwing the resistors to the small case I cannibalized from a defunct RF power/sniffer meter. Wow, did they get hot after only ten seconds. Sure, the output was what I wanted, but it was back to the drawing board for heat sinking. I needed to provide for dissipating 20+ watts of RF power.

I found a nice finned large (perhaps 3x3x5) heat sink that fit well with the unit, and spent some time with the drill press to get the three resistors screwed through the case and into the sink. Success was measured by no appreciable heating until the transmitter was left full on for 60 seconds, and even then it was not bad. For ordinary CW, it will never overheat. Reading the data sheets for these resistors shows that they can only handle around 2 watts in free air, which explains a lot.

Now, I have turned the T-50 into a QRP rig, with added bonus the transmitter always sees 50 ohms. I took a break, once I was sure the attenuator was done. Next is operation on the air, which I may get to later today. But for now, I am just pleased with the progress.

I do confess that in the same order from Mouser, I ordered the parts for the AD5X relay based QSK project that will allow keying and switching at full power of the T-50 and even higher. But that is decidedly not QRP! The plans for this project were published in QST, but Phil also put an updated version on his website, which is his call+.com.

I think the MB and the attenuator + Keyall combination will be killer for QRP contesting with the Drake 2B.

Once I have the MB setup working and making contacts, I will post my results.

Hey Jim, thanks for the advice and for the MB project!

72,

Preston Douglas WJ2V

| 294|293|2014-09-01 13:11:45|WA0ITP|Re: Attenuator report|

Congratts Pres, nice project!

"I think the MB and the attenuator + Keyall combination will be killer for QRP contesting with the Drake 2B." For sure!

On 9/1/2014 11:45 AM, Preston pdouglas12@aol.com [K8IQY-MagicBox] wrote:

As readers of the group know, I have wanted to operate my Knight T-50 and Drake 2B station in full QSK mode with the Magic Box. The MB was not designed for boat anchor operation, and would not tolerate RF in the 25-30 watt range that the T-50 generates; nor would it be safe to operate its keying output into the 120 volt key up voltage of the T-50. (Imagine, the key is hot with 120v DC in this "Novice" rig. Consumers Union would rate this old boat anchor "not recommended" on that issue alone! It's wonder any of us survived childhood.) The Keyall solid state device is an easy to build and cheap way to use a keyer or MB to key such a transmitter as this one. (just put WB9KZY dot com in your browser--15 bucks, shipped).

Now for the problem of too much RF. Jim suggested that redesign of the MB for higher power was possible, but when I suggested maybe a power attenuator would be another way to go, he agreed that would work. A little calculation with online calculators (easy to Google) showed me that a 7dB power attenuator would take my 25 watts down to 5 watts. (Remember, the T-50 was so named for its input power, which is how it was calculated in those days--my meters all show output from a relatively new 807 final runs around 25 to a max of 30 watts. Attenuators have several configurations possible, but the easiest are in T or Pi configuration. I decided on T. Mouser has Craddock thick film resistors at around 4+ bucks each. I needed two 20 ohm and one 56 ohm, and I decided to use 30 watt units. Testing the wired up version showed that I had calculated perfectly, resulting in almost exactly 5 watts output and flat 50 ohm impedance. However (!) I did not provide for heat sinking beyond screwing the resistors to the small case I cannibalized from a defunct RF power/sniffer meter. Wow, did they get hot after only ten seconds. Sure, the output was what I wanted, but it was back to the drawing board for heat sinking. I needed to provide for dissipating 20+ watts of RF power.

I found a nice finned large (perhaps 3x3x5) heat sink that fit well with the unit, and spent some time with the drill press to get the three resistors screwed through the case and into the sink. Success was measured by no appreciable heating until the transmitter was left full on for 60 seconds, and even then it was not bad. For ordinary CW, it will never overheat. Reading the data sheets for these resistors shows that they can only handle around 2 watts in free air, which explains a lot.

Now, I have turned the T-50 into a QRP rig, with added bonus the transmitter always sees 50 ohms. I took a break, once I was sure the attenuator was done. Next is operation on the air, which I may get to later today. But for now, I am just pleased with the progress.

I do confess that in the same order from Mouser, I ordered the parts for the AD5X relay based QSK project that will allow keying and switching at full power of the T-50 and even higher. But that is decidedly not QRP! The plans for this project were published in QST, but Phil also put an updated version on his website, which is his call+.com.

I think the MB and the attenuator + Keyall combination will be killer for QRP contesting with the Drake 2B.

Once I have the MB setup working and making contacts, I will post my results.

Hey Jim, thanks for the advice and for the MB project!

72,

Preston Douglas WJ2V

-- 72 WAØITP I love this radio stuff. www.wa0itp.com wa0itp@wa0itp.com www.4sqrp.com

| 295|293|2015-01-19 15:01:42|k4aho|Re: Attenuator report|

I've been using my MB at 25 - 30 watts for several years now... I replaced the 1N4007 with a true pin diode and used larger ceramic caps in the RF path. The receiver section kept blowing Fets so I finally gave up. Seems like the rx switch was never designed for that power level and I don't think you can do much about that. I am now using the QSK switch designed by AD5X which is relay based. Works like a charm and not nearly as likely to have problems. I built in a sidetone osc and a relay based audio switch. My only problem is to get the HQ129X not to generate pops when switched to mute and back.

The RX is a HQ129X and a homebrew 6AG7-807 MOPA TX. Lots of fun in SKN and the Classic exchange. Anyone wanting additional info drop me a email.

73

Jim
K4AHO at arrl.net

| 296|293|2015-01-19 15:26:28|Preston Douglas|Re: Attenuator report|

Hi Jim,

Yes, Jim Kortge told me that I'd have to change out a number of components including the FET if i wanted to run the MB at over 10 watts or so. It is a great device (the MB) but it needs to be mated with QRP rigs, as it was intended. I have been thinking about a future project using separates with the MB.

I did find that using three 30 watt resistors configured as a 7dB power attenuator protected both the transmitter and the MB. This is a fine solution if you want to run an 807 bottle transmitter in QRP contests, for example.

Meanwhile the Phil Salas AD5X article caught my attention too. I built his relay based QSK device as well. It is an excellent match to my Knight T-50 and Drake 2B. I used a circuit board from Far Circuits, which even Phil didn't know had been done. And the original board had a reversed outline for Q2 on the board that threw me for loop for a while, but I eventually figured it out. After all, it isn't a very complicated circuit. I did tell Phil and Fred at Far Circuits as well, and he has corrected the silk screen.

Preston Douglas WJ2V

-----Original Message-----
From: jwdiggs@earthlink.net [K8IQY-MagicBox]
To: K8IQY-MagicBox
Sent: Mon, Jan 19, 2015 3:01 pm
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Re: Attenuator report

| 297|293|2015-01-21 20:59:27|WA0ITP|Re: HQ129X|

Hi Jim,

An HQ129X was my first receiver and I fell in love with it. It withstood my continuous hacking and attempts to change it to solid state. I thought the crystal filter was the best thing since sliced bread, until I ran across rigs that had well designer ladder filters. I used it with a hmebrew 6AG7/6146B MOPA and wound up with a pretty darned good novice station. Sure wish I still had that great old receiver, I do still have the transmitter.

You'll probably have to sequence the 129X audio with ramped switching to prevent the clicks and pops.

On the MB, yes it was not designed to hold up to 20 -30 watts. It will probably withstand 10 or so but not any more. The attenuator is indeed the best way to go for using a slightly higher powered xmttr. Not much difference between 5W and 25W on the other end of the QSO.

Have fun , it's a great hobby isnt it,.

On 1/19/2015 2:01 PM, jwdiggs@earthlink.net [K8IQY-MagicBox] wrote:

I've been using my MB at 25 - 30 watts for several years now... I replaced the 1N4007 with a true pin diode and used larger ceramic caps in the RF path. The receiver section kept blowing Fets so I finally gave up. Seems like the rx switch was never designed for that power level and I don't think you can do much about that. I am now using the QSK switch designed by AD5X which is relay based. Works like a charm and not nearly as likely to have problems. I built in a sidetone osc and a relay based audio switch. My only problem is to get the HQ129X not to generate pops when switched to mute and back.

The RX is a HQ129X and a homebrew 6AG7-807 MOPA TX. Lots of fun in SKN and the Classic exchange. Anyone wanting additional info drop me a email.

73

Jim
K4AHO at arrl.net

-- 72 WAØITP I love this radio stuff. Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste. www.wa0itp.com wa0itp@wa0itp.com

| 298|298|2015-02-02 17:16:13|rhsbuta|Magic Box Testing|

Hello,
I am completing the assembly and testing of my Magic Box and I have what may be an anomaly in the test step on the bottom of page 12 in the instruction manual. When I connect an antenna to J4 and the antenna lead of a receiver to J3, I can hear band noise and signals on the receiver whether or not I have applied power to J1. Is this normal and if not, what would you suggest I check.
Thanks
Stan - K6VWE

| 299|298|2015-02-03 08:42:38|wb8yyy_curt|Re: Magic Box Testing|

Stan

I am thinking that if you have passed every test up until now that things are ok. It can be expected that the circuit is not done, until all the parts are finally installed.

But I do have one other thought -- read carefully the kinds of connectors and plugs that are required -- as sometimes the wrong plug type can cause an 'on condition' just by being plugged in. Such as a mono connector plugged into a stereo socket etc.

I do NOT know this to be the case - but be careful here. I remember at least one of the cables has special requirements.

Proceed with care, and email its designer as required if you do get stumped.

73 Curt

| 300|298|2015-02-03 14:50:09|Jim Kortge|Re: Magic Box Testing|

On 2/2/2015 5:16 PM, shrowe42@chartermi.net [K8IQY-MagicBox] wrote:

>
>
> Hello,

Greetings Stan,

> I am completing the assembly and testing of my Magic Box and I have
> what may be an anomaly in the test step on the bottom of page 12 in
> the instruction manual. When I connect an antenna to J4 and the
> antenna lead of a receiver to J3, I can hear band noise and signals on
> the receiver whether or not I have applied power to J1.

Interesting!

Is this

> normal

Apparently it is, but it's not the way I had intended the test to be.

and if not, what would you suggest I check.

See below.....

Well I'm simply amazed that that error has not been identified, given
the number of MagicBox units that have been sold and built. There is
indeed a missing piece of the test protocol that for some some reason
was left out. I haven't figured how that test needs to be structured
because of other parts of the circuit that are active as soon as power
is applied, but rest assured, I am working on it and will come up with
a solution within the next day or two. I'm currently fighting
Shingles and when my right arm starts throbbing, I have to take meds
that mess up my head.

> Thanks
> Stan - K6VWE

Thanks for your patience and 72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 301|301|2015-02-03 17:04:27|Jim Kortge|Re: FW: FW: [K8IQY-MagicBox] Magic Box Testing|

On 2/3/2015 3:53 PM, Stan Rowe wrote:

> Not a problem to wait, Jim. I'll wait to hear from you.
> Stan - K6VWE

Stan,

I have it figured out. It just needed a retake on looking at the
schematic and following along in the narative to see what was supposed
to happen.

Here is the good news; there are no errors in the build/test sequence.
In the step 12 test, powering up the MB causes the PB3 line to be at
5 volts and that in turn causes Q7, Q9, and Q10 to conduct and sending
current through the main PIN diode completing the circuit from J4 to
J3. Without power applied, there is probably some leakage from J4 to
J3 which you are hearing, since the other half of the high level
transmit switch, the part the prevents that leakage isn't active. It
becomes active when all of the parts are installed, including the
microprocessor.

So, carry on; your MagicBox is working as designed and is testing as
it should at your current build stage.

Sorry for the confusion, but it has been a while since I designed that
box and some of the details are starting to get a bit foggy. The
Shingles meds aren't helping either! :-)

72 and thanks for your patience,

Jim, K8IQY

PS...looks like more snow headed here and Midland tonight!

| 302|298|2015-02-03 17:07:56|Stan Rowe|Re: Magic Box Testing|

Thanks for your response and thoughts, Curt. I got in touch with the designer of the Magic Box, Jim Kortge, and he was quite surprised at the results I am getting. He wants to check the testing protocol before I go ahead with any more steps, however, he is suffering with shingles so it may be a couple of days before he gets a chance to look at the circuit diagram and the test protocol.

I appreciate your quick feedback.

Stan – K6VWE

| 304|304|2015-03-04 16:38:09|Mike Smith|Need R46 clarification|

Hi group,

I'm currently building my magicbox and need to know what value I should use for R46...100ohms or 10Meg ohms? Thanks in advance for any help from the group.

73

Mike-WH6MS

| 305|304|2015-03-04 16:44:35|Jim Kortge|Re: Need R46 clarification|

On 3/4/2015 3:27 PM, Mike Smith wh6ms5@gmail.com [K8IQY-MagicBox] wrote:

>
>
> Hi group,

Hello Mike,

And welcome to the group.

> I'm currently building my magicbox and need to know what value I
> should use for R46...100ohms or 10Meg ohms?

Not anything larger than 100 Ohms, and probably something on the order
of 47 Ohms if you are going to be using a speaker on the receiver most
of the time.

Thanks in advance for any

> help from the group.

How about the designer? :-)

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 306|304|2015-03-04 17:57:30|WA0ITP|Re: Need R46 clarification|

Start with 100 ohms and go up or down from there if needed.

On 3/4/2015 2:27 PM, Mike Smith wh6ms5@gmail.com [K8IQY-MagicBox] wrote:

Hi group,

I'm currently building my magicbox and need to know what value I should use for R46...100ohms or 10Meg ohms? Thanks in advance for any help from the group.

73

Mike-WH6MS

-- 72 WAØITP I love this radio stuff. Back to the bench, Winter's too valuable to waste. www.wa0itp.com wa0itp@wa0itp.com

| 307|307|2015-09-09 07:45:45|wb8yrs|What to do if side tone oscillator frequency is 380 hertz?|

What to do if side tone oscillator frequency is 380 hertz?

1) I changed R46 from 1 megohm to 100 ohms, no change.

2) Continued on page 12 installed Q11,Q12, and Q13.

Did test and same frequency, pot R32 mutes audio ouput,

R21 ground no affect grounded or not (little weaker not grounded)

3) probably will continue on and install Q1and Q2.

Any ideas?

Signed

Terry

| 308|307|2015-09-14 12:40:49|wb8yyy_curt|Re: What to do if side tone oscillator frequency is 380 hertz?|

Terry

I am not sure what is causing the low tone, but please note that the oscillator circuit is around Q14. The RC network between its base and collector determine the oscillator frequency. This type of circuit uses a phase shift, instead of an LC resonance to determine the oscillator frequency.

The behavior of this circuit is described at:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_oscillator

See phase shift oscillator, and note the formula. When I plug in the component values I calculate 691 Hertz.
(email me direct if the math isn't straight forward)

I suggest checking the part values for these 3 caps and 2 resistors -- these entirely determine the frequency of oscillation. Also make sure each part is soldered into the circuit.

Curt WB8YYY

| 309|307|2015-09-14 16:28:37|Jim Kortge|Re: What to do if side tone oscillator frequency is 380 hertz?|

On 9/14/2015 12:40 PM, wb8yyy@yahoo.com [K8IQY-MagicBox] wrote:

>
>
> Terry
>
> I am not sure what is causing the low tone, but please note that the
> oscillator circuit is around Q14. The RC network between its base and
> collector determine the oscillator frequency. This type of circuit
> uses a phase shift, instead of an LC resonance to determine the
> oscillator frequency.
>
> The behavior of this circuit is described at:
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_oscillator
>
> See phase shift oscillator, and note the formula. When I plug in the
> component values I calculate 691 Hertz.
> (email me direct if the math isn't straight forward)
>
> I suggest checking the part values for these 3 caps and 2 resistors --
> these entirely determine the frequency of oscillation. Also make sure
> each part is soldered into the circuit.
>
> Curt WB8YYY

I concur with what Curt wrote. I just checked a couple of
possibilities and can't figure out how one would get 380 Hz. Check
the PCB for 0.02 capacitors (mylar) and 4.7 K resistors. Those should
be the parts values for achieving 700 Hz, the nominal design frequency.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 310|310|2016-01-06 09:49:44|omy8kinbak|No More Magic Boxes?|

Sad to see on the website that the Magic Box kit has been retired. I actually am fortunate enough to have bought the kit last year, have been REALLY busy as a caregiver for a family member and have not been able to clear time to build it yet, but it IS there, patiently waiting for me... ...so thank you Jim and to all, for a wonderful kit and TR switch. I may actually build the MB and Phil's reed TR switch as I have a DX-60B that I want to use for QSK. Wishing all of you at 4 Group a really wonderful New Year and ALL the best in 2016!

73 - Rich WB2GXM

| 311|310|2016-01-06 11:01:20|Preston Douglas|Re: No More Magic Boxes?|

Folks,

I have a MB that is used for T/R with QRP rigs; it works a treat. I also use a Phil Salas boat anchor QSK switch for my Knight T-50 and Drake 2B combo; it is also an excellent unit for higher-than-QRP rigs. At one point, I bought a Magic Box kit at Dayton from the master himself (Jim, K8IQY). Then I lost it, so when the time came to build it, I actually bought another one. Then I found the first one. I will sell the unbuilt one for exactly what I paid for it, whatever that was. If someone wants it, please email direct to pdouglas12@aol.com and we'll confirm price. Paypal would be fine.

Preston Douglas WJ2V

-----Original Message-----
From: richs86@hotmail.com [K8IQY-MagicBox]
To: K8IQY-MagicBox
Sent: Wed, Jan 6, 2016 9:49 am
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] No More Magic Boxes?

73 - Rich WB2GXM

| 312|310|2016-01-06 16:57:13|omy8kinbak|Re: No More Magic Boxes?|

Preston, what price do you want for the MB? Thanks - Rich

| 313|310|2016-01-06 16:59:13|pdouglas12|Re: No More Magic Boxes?|

It's spoken for. Thanks.

| 314|310|2016-01-06 21:09:07|wb8yyy_curt|Re: No More Magic Boxes?|

On another list I saw reference to a 150 watt capable tr switch at qrpkits.com. I had glanced at the phil salas article and this kit may be similar, its manual would possibly have the circuit origin. Anyway its a latched relay also, the most vital part of the magic box function. While the magic box is very cool it uses a rats nest of cables. For integrating into a more permanant setup not a bad thought to visit other physical realizations not involving so many connectors. Where the magic box shines is incidental integration such as experimenting.

73 Curt

| 315|310|2016-01-07 13:38:59|Richard Hayter|Re: No More Magic Boxes?|

Is anyone aware of any project where Arduino has been used to control the Magic Box? This is a project I was thinking about embarking upon. DIck N4HAY

| 316|310|2016-01-07 13:58:07|Jim Kortge|Re: No More Magic Boxes?|

On 1/7/2016 12:54 PM, Richard Hayter richardshayter@gmail.com [K8IQY-MagicBox] wrote:

Is anyone aware of any project where Arduino has been used to control the Magic Box?

Not me. The AtTiny2313 has worked just fine with firmware written in C.

This is a project I was thinking about embarking upon.

You should consider making the unit handle 50 watts while you are at it. Lots of interest in that power level for boat anchor rigs. Also, consider making it handle both positive and negative keying too.

Â DIck N4HAY

72 and good luck,

Jim, K8IQY

| 317|310|2016-01-08 17:28:15|omy8kinbak|Re: No More Magic Boxes?|

The only TR switch I see on qrpkits.com is the Easy TR Switch, rf sensing... not rated by qrpkits for 150 watts, and I personally wouldn't put anything more than qrp levels into it as the relay looks to be hotswtiched (relay switches after rf becomes active and is sensed). This degrades the relay over time and could also put the front end of a high-quality receiver at risk. The MB and the Phil Salas TR Switch both carefully sequence the keying, MB with a computer program and Salas TR with hardware, so that hot-switching never happens and the receiver input is always isolated from the antenna and grounded when transmitter rf is present. I wouldn't treat my vintage receivers any other way... BTW Jim, very impressed with the 4-mosfet receiver switching, VERY elegant! If you are not producing any more kits or pcboards, will you make the pcboards available through FAR Circuits or similar? Thanks - Rich WB2GXM

| 318|310|2016-01-09 14:49:35|Jim Kortge|Re: No More Magic Boxes?|

On 1/8/2016 5:28 PM, richs86@hotmail.com [K8IQY-MagicBox] wrote:

The only TR switch I see on qrpkits.com is the Easy TR Switch, rf sensing... not rated by qrpkits for 150 watts, and I personally wouldn't put anything more than qrp levels into it as the relay looks to be hotswtiched (relay switches after rf becomes active and is sensed). This degrades the relay over time and could also put the front end of a high-quality receiver at risk. The MB and the Phil Salas TR Switch both carefully sequence the keying, MB with a computer program and Salas TR with hardware, so that hot-switching never happens and the receiver input is always isolated from the antenna and grounded when transmitter rf is present.

Your analysis is spot on. With the MagicBox, the sequencing is carefully controlled so that the receiver is protected at all cost and there are no key clicks nor thumps.

I wouldn't treat my vintage receivers any other way... BTW Jim, very impressed with the 4-mosfet receiver switching, VERY elegant!

That's how you get 90+ dB below the transmitted signal going into the receiver antenna port. :-)

If you are not producing any more kits or pcboards, will you make the pcboards available through FAR Circuits

Certainly not FAR Circuits. As far as I know, they can't do double sided boards, which is a must for the MagicBox. I need to discuss with 4 State QRP whether or not we will make another run sometime in the future. If not, I may shop the design out to another vendor and make a few dollars as they are sold. The 4 State QRP Group has enjoyed "royality free" licenses for all of the designs that I've done for them, which has helped to put on Ozarkcon over these past many years. I'm proud of that.....

or similar?

See above.

Thanks - Rich WB2GXM

Thanks for your comments Rich.

72,

Jim, K8IQY

| 319|310|2016-01-09 21:00:38|omy8kinbak|Re: No More Magic Boxes?|

Jim, I for one, would be very interested in purchasing another 1 or 2 Magic Boxes if you and the group see fit to reissue them! I have a question about the 2N7000 and the receiver isolation input-output transformers: one of the qrp transmitters on qrpkits.com uses 2N7000 mosfets for a built-in TR switch of their own, but without your toroid input-output transformers, or pull-up resistors. I assume the 470K-470ohm resistors are there to pullup the gate of the 2N7000s to +5V until pulled low by the PIC... What function do the input-output toroids do? ...Thinking of using the MB for receiver isolation, the Keyall to key the DX-60B, BUT also use separate antennas for transmit and receive so I can output the full 90w from the DX-60B -- no moving parts and full protection for the receiver front end from cuupled RF between the antennas. Thanks again for the MB, I am a fan! 73 - Rich WB2GXM

| 320|310|2016-01-12 16:11:05|Jim Kortge|Re: No More Magic Boxes?|

On 1/9/2016 9:00 PM, richs86@hotmail.com [K8IQY-MagicBox] wrote:

Jim,

Hi again Rich,

I for one, would be very interested in purchasing another 1 or 2 Magic Boxes if you and the group see fit to reissue them!

Well, we will keep that in mind. Maybe there is still some life left in the old gal!

I have a question about the 2N7000 and the receiver isolation input-output transformers: one of the qrp transmitters on qrpkits.com uses 2N7000 mosfets for a built-in TR switch of their own, but without your toroid input-output transformers, or pull-up resistors. I assume the 470K-470ohm resistors are there to pullup the gate of the 2N7000s to +5V until pulled low by the PIC...

Yes, that is correct. I didn't want to rely on the internal pullup resistors in the chip to do that job.

What function do the input-output toroids do?

Ah ha, those are the keys to the kingdom. Those protect the 2N7000s when the operator forgets to plug in an antenna or dummy load and the antenna voltage goes really high. Without them and the lower voltage they provide, the 2N7000s can be killed. How do I know that.....experience along the way when developing the circuitry! :-) Enough said.

...Thinking of using the MB for receiver isolation, the Keyall to key the DX-60B, BUT also use separate antennas for transmit and receive so I can output the full 90w from the DX-60B -- no moving parts and full protection for the receiver front end from cuupled RF between the antennas.

Yes, you could certainly approach it that way if you have another antenna.

Thanks again for the MB, I am a fan!

Thanks for your nice comments Rich.

73 - Rich WB2GXM

72,

Jim, K8IQY

PS, I'm guessing that a DX-60B outputs more like 35-40 watts; input power is probably rated at 90-watts full on. I'd be interested to know though. I once had a DX-40; loved that rig.

| 321|321|2016-03-04 11:11:56|Sue henderson|problem solved- magic box|

4 March 2016

Some early posts have made reference to a low freq buzz in the keyed audio section.
Apologies if this has been solved already
After much checking I noted that using a metal probe and touching the case of c22 or the hot ends of r30/31 resulted in a clear 700hz tone merely with hand capacity.
Soldering a 23pf cap across r30 provided an instant cure.

The magic box now works perfectly with my ss40 and ns 40
The magic box does indeed live up to its name as do its companion kits. Savxo next up!
Many thanks to you all.
Ellice Henderson g3lyd
Crede quod habes, et habes

| 322|321|2016-03-04 11:42:57|Jim Kortge|Re: problem solved- magic box|

On 3/4/2016 10:04 AM, Sue henderson g3lyd@btinternet.com
[K8IQY-MagicBox] wrote:

> 4 March 2016
>
>
> Some early posts have made reference to a low freq buzz in the keyed audio section.

I do not remember that. Can you tell me what message that info was in?

> Apologies if this has been solved already
> After much checking I noted that using a metal probe and touching the case of c22 or the hot ends of r30/31 resulted in a clear 700hz tone merely with hand capacity.

Are capacitors installed with the correct polarity? The positive end
of C22 connects to the collector of Q14 and the positive end of C24
connects to the base of Q15. Also, what kind of power source are you
using to power the MB?

> Soldering a 23pf cap across r30 provided an instant cure.

23 pF sure isn't a standard value.

>
>
> The magic box now works perfectly with my ss40 and ns 40

That's good to know, but I sure am puzzled by what you are seeing with
yours.

> The magic box does indeed live up to its name as do its companion kits. Savxo next up!
> Many thanks to you all.
> Ellice Henderson g3lyd
> Crede quod habes, et habes

72 Ellice and thank for the update,

Jim, K8IQY

>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: Sue henderson <g3lyd@btinternet.com>
> ------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>
>

| 323|323|2016-10-17 21:02:25|wb8yyy_curt|MB plus Tuna Tin equals Hot Mosfet|

just a post to convey my not paying enough attention. built a tuna tin transmitter with a IRF-510 final, just because I had not built either before. plug any solid state Tx into the MB? well no .... no keying and the mosfet inside the MB was real hot. too much troubleshooting for me to figure it out.

the story well a tuna tin puts 12 volts DC onto the keying line, which feeds into the MB's mosfet, and flows from drain to source. easily remedied with a PNP keying circuit (a la ugly weekender Tx).

voila - MB keys the now 4 transistor Tx. posting here for the next person to make the same mistake with the MB. now do I use this old HR-20 or some other Rx ....

hopefully someone else also building something to plug into the MB. CUL

Curt

| 324|323|2016-10-17 21:32:24|BOB AF2DX|Re: MB plus Tuna Tin equals Hot Mosfet|

I forgot the name of the yahoo list but they built many of them and i'm sure they can give you a fast fix.

BOB AF2DX

beargyrils@aol.com

-----Original Message-----
From: wb8yyy@yahoo.com [K8IQY-MagicBox]
To: K8IQY-MagicBox
Sent: Mon, Oct 17, 2016 9:02 pm
Subject: [K8IQY-MagicBox] MB plus Tuna Tin equals Hot Mosfet

| 325|323|2016-10-18 20:15:01|Jim Kortge|Re: MB plus Tuna Tin equals Hot Mosfet|

Curt,

Thanks for your post!

On 10/17/2016 9:02 PM, wb8yyy@yahoo.com [K8IQY-MagicBox] wrote:

just a post to convey my not paying enough attention. built a tuna tin transmitter with a IRF-510 final, just because I had not built either before. plug any solid state Tx into the MB? well no .... no keying and the mosfet inside the MB was real hot.

Yes, I'll bet it was. Shorting all of the current from your power supply to ground.

too much troubleshooting for me to figure it out.

the story well a tuna tin puts 12 volts DC onto the keying line, which feeds into the MB's mosfet, and flows from drain to source. easily remedied with a PNP keying circuit (a la ugly weekender Tx).

Yup, that's the best solution when the power supply is being keyed into the rig with a mechanical key. Adding a PNP keying transistor is the easiest solution, and put the keying voltage into the MagicBox the way it was designed to work, that is, bring the keying line to ground.

voila - MB keys the now 4 transistor Tx. posting here for the next person to make the same mistake with the MB. now do I use this old HR-20 or some other Rx ....

Use the HR-20...... :-)

hopefully someone else also building something to plug into the MB. CUL

Curt

72,

Jim, K8IQY